RE: [Chevelle-list] 3 Exhaust on '65 Malibu SS
I have 3 all the way back on my 70 SS and am using Flowmasters. It definitely sounds good (and just a little loud.enough to scare the little neighbor kid). The guy who put the system in used a angled connector just over the axles and welded it together that way. He didn't tell me where he got the connectors though. The job looks clean and he even used a set of correct repro chrome exhaust extensions on the end. He just stretched the tips over the pipes.you can't tell it's fabricated unless you climb under and look close. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 65ss.com Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 7:28 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 3 Exhaust on '65 Malibu SS Yes, noise good :) My friend down the street has a '67 with a big block, and 3 exhaust, and it is just plain mean sounding. I've found some Mandrel 3 kits that go over the axle, and turn out similar to the original exhaust. I figure with some decent mufflers, and possibly some resonator tips, I should be able to create adequate back pressure. I just wish I had a big block to really get the 'mean' sound out of the engine. Charles www.65ss.com - Original Message - From: Mike Holleman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:00 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 3 Exhaust on '65 Malibu SS I just installed a 3 flowmaster system on my 64 421 Tripower Tempest. If you could only hear the tone your question would be answered. Plus need has nothing to do with it, if you want it and I believe you do, go for it. Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: 65ss.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 3 Exhaust on '65 Malibu SS Well, I'm actually planning on building a 383 for the car in the next year with Aluminum Heads, Roller cam, etc... So that's why I figured I'd go 3 now, and save time/money in the long run. Do you think 3 would be too much for a 425hp+ 383? Ok,I'll say it,then. 3 is too big for that engine. Why do you need anything larger than 2.5? Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner LT5 Registry Director http://www.LT5Registry.net/ ACES #1650 http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] First, the three inch exhaust may be a little overkill for the engine, but it probably can't hurt if you like it. Tom Tomlinson '71 Malibu '66 El Camino
RE: [Chevelle-list] Visit to AZ
Wayne, Check out the cruisinarizona.com web site. It gives a list of the car-related events going on in all areas of AZ. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 12:52 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Visit to AZ Going to vist the SUNNY South-West next week..six days.. Going to a place called Seria Vista, south of Tuson.. Other then an excape from the frigid North East.. any thing Chevy ( Chevelle) Related in the Area? I hope to be able to De-Frost , that's the main goal !!! Wayne ACES # 1556 TC # 186
RE: [Chevelle-list] Visit to AZ
Also, if you want to learn about special deals/offers or more about the state visit www.ArizonaVacationValues.com or www.ArizonaGuide.com. Both are official websites for the Arizona Office of Tourism ~ AOT~(My wife worked with AOT for 9 years). -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stephen Lentz Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 4:43 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Visit to AZ Wayne, Check out the cruisinarizona.com web site. It gives a list of the car-related events going on in all areas of AZ. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 12:52 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Visit to AZ Going to vist the SUNNY South-West next week..six days.. Going to a place called Seria Vista, south of Tuson.. Other then an excape from the frigid North East.. any thing Chevy ( Chevelle) Related in the Area? I hope to be able to De-Frost , that's the main goal !!! Wayne ACES # 1556 TC # 186
RE: [Chevelle-list] Cool Photo
Any luck on getting that photo? [EMAIL PROTECTED] thanks, Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Craig Cerena RobertsonSent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 5:03 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] Cool Photo A guy I work with re-did a 1966 Chevrolet Maryland State Police car. During our last cruise I set up a photo session at a rural area and took numerous picture of the Police cruiser in a car stop position with my 69 Chevelle, my brother's 65 GTO and my other brothers 75 Corvette. I thought the photo's turned out great. I'm now in the process of having them made into posters to be framed and given as Christmas gifts. Anyone interested in seeing the photo's let me know. Craig
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification
Cool, thank youfinally, something on my car is what it is supposed to be! YEAH Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zieg72 Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 4:33 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification My resources say that CRV is a 1970 3.31 posi. - Original Message - From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 12:59 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification Ok...I carved through the grease and grime and came up with CRV 040832 Is this the number needed to ID the rear? If so, what does it come back to? Thanks, Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:12 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification Steve, Look on the axle tube, front passenger side. Should be some letters followed by numbers. Or you can look at the gears when you pull the rear cover. Mike - Original Message - From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 12:04 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification While I'm under here, I might as well see what I have.can anybody help me identify this rear12 bolt posi with GM52 on the front passenger side and 3969278NF on the front driver's side. Thanks Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification
Ok...I carved through the grease and grime and came up with CRV 040832 Is this the number needed to ID the rear? If so, what does it come back to? Thanks, Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Holleman Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:12 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification Steve, Look on the axle tube, front passenger side. Should be some letters followed by numbers. Or you can look at the gears when you pull the rear cover. Mike - Original Message - From: Stephen Lentz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 12:04 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] rear end identification While I'm under here, I might as well see what I have.can anybody help me identify this rear12 bolt posi with GM52 on the front passenger side and 3969278NF on the front driver's side. Thanks Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] Agree w/ Larry on Team Chevelle classifieds
Hi, If you get stung on E-bay, make sure to report it to their fraud department as well as your local police department. It might work, and it might not. It really depends on the evidence and the willingness/experience of the detective assigned to your case. We are in the process of filing 40+ felony charges after successfully serving a search warrant at an 18-year-old's house. He had a bad habit of selling items and then forgetting to send them. You have to have patience because these kinds of cases take a LONG time to compile for the state attorney. This one has taken several months and is about 3 thick (in a 3-ring binder). What goes around eventually does come around...sometimes. I think he is about to have a really bad day. Good for him and good luck to us every time we bid. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zieg72 Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 6:59 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Agree w/ Larry on Team Chevelle classifieds I got stung on E-Bay and they do nothing about it so there is really no guarantee buying from anyone. You have to be careful and hopefully luck out. I buy and sell on E-Bay and have 100% positive rating and I try to treat people how I would like to be treated too. What goes around eventually comes around. - Original Message - From: Dale McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:47 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Agree w/ Larry on Team Chevelle classifieds I've never purchased anything from the TC sale site itself although I do have a 4-spd conversion on there now for sale for a 67 Chevelle - but I also have it on eBay simply because there's more traffic and I can at least gauge if it's even being viewed. I've bought and sold pounds (not quite tons yet G) of stuff on eBay over the past 4 or 5 years and only had one sour experience but we worked that out. I have purchased a few things from other TX members, but only people I knew from the site. Ebay at least has some semblance of protection where TC unfortunately has none except word-of-mouth. Too many dealer stuff I see from folks that may or may not support TC in any fashion. Not knocking TC, in fact I applaud the efforts, butunless you know who/what you're dealing with, it can be a challenge. Dale McIntosh -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trooper Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 8:49 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Agree w/ Larry on Team Chevelle classifieds Ditto on the biggest screwing from Team Chevelle classifieds. I've purchased almost 100 items from E-bay and 99% have been as described and sold by good people. Purchased about 10 items from TC classifieds and have had two bad experiences. Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone price a restored 57 convert lately? Well believe it or not that frame to the right person is worth 1000 bucks easy. lol i gave 110 bucks for a 57 chev convert in 1965 ! i gave it to a buddy a year later because my dad said i had too many toys. as far as ebay prices yes they are high but how many of you have opened a brand new Hemming and made a phone call immediately only to find out that rare part you wanted or needed was sold 2 weeks ago? You're out a long distance phone call and you are no closer to the part. at least with ebay if you want or need the part bad enough you can make a bid on it. I have bought and sold chevelle parts from ebay and several other places. want to know where I took the biggest screwing and got burnt the most? Team Chevelle used parts has been my worst enemy. Larry (Z) --- ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle -list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] Rear end
First I would like to thank everyone who helped me change the pinion seal on my 12-bolt. I followed the directions and everything worked out as planned. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this list and I am glad they are just as helpful and willing to assist restoration-rookies like me. I have one small snag. I used the gray colored Permatex ultra-gasket sealer when I put the rear cover on. It seemed a little runny when I applied it so I let it set up a bit before I mated the cover with the rear. It dripped out a bit when I was tightening the bolts (I torque every other one evenly). Well, I ate dinner and then went out to fill the rear. Everything seemed fine, so I went out for a short cruiseya got to test it! I then cleaned my floor, parked the car back in the garage and went to bed. I found a 4 puddle of fluid under the rear (toward the back this time) in the morning. It was rather depressing, but I figure I just used the wrong type of sealer. The gray stuff doesn't seem to like the differential lube at all. The question is, what would be the best sealer? RTV blue? Black? Something else? Also, what type of lube do you recommend? Synthetic is more expensive than the regular stuff. Is it better? My rear is equipped with Posi-traction in case that matters. Thanks, Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] rear end identification
While I'm under here, I might as well see what I have.can anybody help me identify this rear12 bolt posi with GM52 on the front passenger side and 3969278NF on the front driver's side. Thanks Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] Gas in Arizona
Its about 2.05 to 2.17 here on the east side of the valley. If you need gas heading from Phoenix to Tucson, I would time it so you can fill up in Casa Grandeits about 1.69 down there. I will probably be taking all of my cans with me there tomorrow while I am visiting relatives. I heard that gas is cheaper wherever you go once you leave the valley/ Phoenix metro area. Happy motoring. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brad Waller Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 9:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-list] Gas in Arizona I'm leaving tomorrow for Arizona and wonder if the situation has improved at all. We drive from LA to Phoenix Monday, and then continue to Sierra Vista Tuesday, then up to Scottsdale Friday. I figure gas will have stabilized by Friday, so my big concern is tomorrow. What is the situation in the Phoenix area? Brad Waller Brad Waller| VP, Business and Affiliate Development http://EP.com/ | http://EPage.com | http://AdConnect.com _ Classified Ad Affiliate Program: http://EP.com/b/csp.html Content for your Web properties: http://EPage.com Hosted Classifieds and Auctions: http://AdConnect.com ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem
I'm having some trouble coming up with tools and supplies to do this job. Nobody has an inch/pound torque wrench or a dial indicator around here. I got the pinion seal and a new universal joint (since the drive shaft is down anyway), but nobody seems to have the rear cover gasket. Pep Boys says there are 7 in Indiana and 13 in Texas. That seems kind of strange because I didn't think 12 bolt rears were that rare.Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 8:00 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problemIn a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: will need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice.SteveI've done a few rears. I would pull the back cover off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in it. The dial indicator will come with directions. It's very difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically showing you, so just read the directions carefully. You will not have to do anything internally to the rear. If all goes as it should and you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting. The backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, and the depth of the pinion. There are shims inside on the pinion between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see. There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes up the slack so there is no play in the pinion. As long as there is no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you started the job. Good luck,Tom ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.
Thanks everybody, I marked the nut and the end of the pinion shaft and removed the nut. The yoke assembly came of relatively easy with just a little wiggling. I started to work around the old seal to get it off and wiggled the pinion shaft a little out of curiosity. It wiggled about a 1/4 inch in all directions. I thought that it probably shouldn't wiggle at all because of the bearings still inside the rear. Do I have problems here? I looked at the inside of the yoke assembly that I removed and noticed that there was a thin groove cut around the diameter of the rearmost cylinder in the yoke assembly (in from the spline section that mates to the matching grooves in the pinion. I have a bad feeling this thing might need bearings or something worse. Should there be play on the pinion shaft when the yoke is removed? I don't think it wiggled at all when the yoke was still bolted on. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Trooper Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:09 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload. I know I'm coming into this late and you may already have the job done. I agree with Dave's method of seal replacement. The only thing he forgot is, before you put the washer and nut back on, fill the area under the washer (around the pinion and yoke interface) with RTV to seal it. Otherwise you will have a little leak there. You don't need to measure backlash. This is controlled by the pinion and carrier shims which you will not be touching. The only thing you need to worry about is getting the correct preload. If you line your marks up you will be very close. If you want to get more technical. Get a inch pound torque wrench and place it on the pinion nut prior to disassembly and turn the pinion. measure the resistance in inch pounds. Do the removal and repair and put the nut back on. As you tighten the nut check the preload with the torque wrench often. When you get back to the torque measurement you had at the start, your done. Goo - Original Message - From: Dave Corgill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:24 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload. At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote: This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload on the pinion? I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK. I have the rear jacked up (using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4 of the size it was dirty ;-) I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down some (still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke. I only have simple tools and a seal pullersomewhere. I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty hard in all directions and there was no play. I will try the yoke again after I unhook the driveshaft. How do I remove the Yoke with this preload? Is it pressed on too? Thanks for all the responses, Steve 1 remove driveshaft from yoke 2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and the pinion nut. So you know how they line up. Turn the pinion by hand and check for slop. You will need to know what it feels like for step 7 and up. 3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold) 4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle. Do not hammer the pinion in! You could damage it or the bearings. 5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance. Make sure you put some oil on the lip for lubrication. 6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started. Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new nut because it's a lock nut that works the best only once. I usuallyreuse the old one. In either case, make sure you use RED threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger. 7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop (usually only a little bit) there is in the bearings. Slowly tighten up the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2. 8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one width of the chisel mark past. 9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one chisel mark width past. repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like it did in step 2. IMPORTANT! If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN. If you have gone a lot too far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and pinion to replace the crush
RE: [Chevelle-list] Re: great restoration
He failed to mention about the floorsI think I saw a little rust on the floorboards in one of the picture. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Chad P.Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 2:20 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: great restoration o, I never realized that lol. In person, I would've got itbut damn the emails. :-) What doyou say that car is worth? About 100? Chad - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: great restoration its called sarcasm Chad... lol I like how he says he "purposely included several pictures"... like, holy poop, how did they get there also, it doesn't even have a title, which might not matter, because I bet the VIN rusted off of the car quite some time ago... Dan McIntoshPavement Scraping 1964 Impala SShttp://www.lowriderimpala.com - Original Message - From: Chad P. To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: great restoration insane? The car is a peice of shit! Doesn't even look restorable. The only good thing about the car is the frame it comes with. The body.I cannot even tell its a 1957 Bel Air! Its covered in rust, there is nothing solid on the car. Chad - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:04 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: great restoration Looking through e-bay for a shoebox to restore and came across this awesome deal . Check out auction # 2429102823 . This guy has to be insane offering this at such a low price.John ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.
I've been thinking too. The rear never leaked before that I can remember. Now all of a sudden it has just purged all over my garage floor? I think that the bearings may be failing at the pinion allowing it to wobble while driving. This movement would definitely egg-shape the seal and cause the groove around the inner diameter of the rear side of the yoke. If I just replace the seal, it might only last one or two short trips before failing also. Then I'm back to square 1. I don't think that the bearing exchange is a novice operation, is it? Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.
I'm taking pictures of everything as I go with the digital camera. I can send pictures if anyone wants to see what I am trying to explain. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stephen Lentz Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 3:01 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload. I've been thinking too. The rear never leaked before that I can remember. Now all of a sudden it has just purged all over my garage floor? I think that the bearings may be failing at the pinion allowing it to wobble while driving. This movement would definitely egg-shape the seal and cause the groove around the inner diameter of the rear side of the yoke. If I just replace the seal, it might only last one or two short trips before failing also. Then I'm back to square 1. I don't think that the bearing exchange is a novice operation, is it? Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] rear end problem
Hey guys and gals, I could use some help. I keep my Chevelle parked in the garage. The floor of the garage is painted so I keep it very clean. For the past few months, I have been cleaning up small fluid puddles every time the car sits for a while without moving. Well, there is a huge puddle under the rear of my car. It is so big, it actually ran out from underneath the car by the driver's door. Since the floor was clean, I was able to see the center of the puddle which is centered just in front of the rear end pumpkin about 1 or 2 inches. I'm a little scared because I was hoping it was just loose rear end cover bolts, but it looks like it is leaking from the front of the rear. I would assume there is a seal in the front of the rear. What kind of operation am I looking at and am I over my head here? I have never messed with the rear end of a car before, but I know that things need to be put together right or it will lock up later. Any suggestions? Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem
This is Steve.OK...what do you mean when youmentioned the preload on the pinion? I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK. I have the rear jacked up (using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the process of cleaning the gunk off the housingGee, the rear is only 3/4 of the size it was dirty ;-) I haven't taken anything apart yetI'm waiting for it to cool down some (still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the rear yoke (going totape up the universal in the process and probably replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke. I only have simple tools and a seal pullersomewhere. I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty hard in all directions and there was no play. I will try the yoke again after I unhook the driveshaft. How do I remove the Yoke with this "preload"? Is it pressed on too? Thanks for all the responses, Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 6:52 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problemDon't forget about the preload on the pinion when you take the yoke nut off. You can't pry on the yoke itself or you will damage it and throw it off balance resulting in a vibration. A big impact gun is also required for this job.Tom ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem
I will need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlashif the end result does not equal the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 7:35 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problemSteve,The preload is set using the torque of the nut holding the yoke in place. To get the yoke off, leave the nut on so that it is flush with the end of the pinion shaft. Then grab a hold of the yoke with one hand and tap the nut/pinion with a hammer until the yoke pops off, just make sure you do not miss and hit the yoke. Pull the cover off and let all the oil drain out of it otherwise you make take a bath in it when you go to pull the pinion seal off.When you are done putting the seal back on, slip the yoke on and put the nut on. When you go to to use the impact gun on thenut, I suggest using a very large pair of pliers to hold the yoke. If you go to use your hand to hold it, you'll break your wrist. Keep tightening that nut until there is no play in it. You should actually have a dial indicator to measure the backlash before and after you do this just to make sure everything is in place.TomTom ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem
Great, thankswell, back to the garage...got the doo-wop playing and it feels good. I'll see how far I can go tonight and chime up if I have any trouble.just going to be easy on the yoke. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 8:00 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problemIn a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: will need to purchase a dial indicator. If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash. Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial backlash? On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason? Bear with meyour instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion. I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner. I'm still cleaning the mess away. Thanks for your help. Have you done many of these? Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice.SteveI've done a few rears. I would pull the back cover off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in it. The dial indicator will come with directions. It's very difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically showing you, so just read the directions carefully. You will not have to do anything internally to the rear. If all goes as it should and you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting. The backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, and the depth of the pinion. There are shims inside on the pinion between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see. There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes up the slack so there is no play in the pinion. As long as there is no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you started the job. Good luck,Tom ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] I need gas
Hi all, I was just driving back from Sunday dinner at my wife's family's house and noticed that I was low on gasWell I think I just had a flashback to the mid- 70's because I drove past 16 gas stations and only two of them had ANY gas. I really don't plan on sitting in line for ever to get it eitherboth stations were rationing the gas and there were at least 30-40 cars waiting at each onethis is at 11:00pm on a Sunday night! I just checked the news and heard that we won't have the gas supplies we need for another two weeks. Guess I will be working from home for a while because my s10 is on fumes and I only have about a 1/2 tank of good stuff in my Chevelle to siphon out. This is crazy. Stay away from Phoenix and northern Arizona for a while. The broken pipeline is between us and Tucson to the south. I might be squeezing the gas out of the sand where it broke soon.. Steve ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] I need gas
Hopefully everything will be in order soon. I just sat in a line at an Albertson's for 50 minutes so I could get the luxury of putting $45.00 in my S10 and 1 small can (@ 1.94 a gallonwhat a steal ;-) ). I heard that a Mesa station was selling gas for $3.05 a gallon and one in Phoenix had gas for $3.95 a gallonIt's wrong to wish bad things on people, but... Rumor has it this BS will be going on for probably 10 more days. People are actually following the gas trucks around waiting for them to stopBTW, the gas placards on the sides of the tankerare identified with the "1203- flammable" designation. Steve- now using my Chevelle as fuel storage/reserves -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 11:55 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I need gasI think Tucson is ok..the pipeline that ruptured is in between Tucson and Phoenix. It's supposed to be back online real soon. they are waiting for the federal gov'ernment to ok it, it's already fixed just waiting for them to give it the ok..for some reason the gov't hasn't done it yet..so you should be ok, just gas up in Tucson before you head north..funny, i bought my Chevelle from a guy in Sierra Vista...tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Back subj; Cruisin' music!
Sarge, The song you are talking about is SS396 by Paul Revere and the Raiders. I'm holding a 45 of it right now. It was produced by Columbia Special Products exclusively for Chevrolet Dealers to be used as complementary promotional tools. It was actually the B side of the record. The A side was a song called Camaro by the Cyrkle. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBS Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 10:54 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Back subj; Cruisin' music! I'd been thinking about that old string the other day. As far as looking for driving tunes, I found an oldie, (before my time, but I like the song. It's beach Boys style, but it's not the Beach Boys. The songs about an SS396. In fact that may even be the name of it. I got it off the internet, and burned it to a CD. If anyone is interested, I found it on i-Mesh. Also the song Chrome, I believe it's by Toby Keith is a great Chevelle tune. The song starts out about a Chevelle. That one's Country. Just a couple for ya'll to add to the Cruzin list. SARGE 69SS/Clone -Original Message- From: Pelle Andersson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 9:33 AM To: Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back subj; Cruisin' music! There's two 4 Disc boxes that are so far out They're called nuggets I II or... Nuggets: Original Artyfacts from the First Psychedelic Era, 1965-1968 [BOX SET] Nuggets II: Original Artyfacts from the British Empire and Beyond [BOX SET] This is Groovy folks :-) In a couple of days I'll be seeing my sweet Chevelle again. Best regards Pelle Andersson ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] How to recover a stolen chevelle??
Donnie, was the entire car stolen or just the motor? Did you recover any partsafter the initial theft(frame or body)? NCIC has two files applicable to vehicles, completevehicle entriesand parts that have identifiable characteristics (VIN's, partial VIN's, owner applied numbers, and unique numerical identifiers.). If your entire car was stolen, but was later recovered stripped, it is possible that all related VIN information was removed from the NCIC database by the recovering officer. If this is the case, the outstanding parts are "clear" and will not come up with a "stolen hit" if ran through the database. I do not know how long the information remains in the database before it is purged. Good luck in your search. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 12:39 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] How to recover a stolen chevelle??Donnie: like finding a needle in a haystack. If it was stolen back then I bet it got cut up. today they would switch VINS , etc., back then strip it. Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Malibus vs. Chevelle SS'= return values ???? Legitimate question and concern...
True...to trueat least he spelled it right. He probably though he signed up for the Mustang listand cant read verry good. Stupidity should be painful..back to Chevelles Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Ken's EmailSent: Monday, August 04, 2003 1:29 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Malibus vs. Chevelle SS'= return values Legitimate question and concern... What ? Pragley ? Did you not understand the original question ? Thanks to Dale and a few others for a reasonable response. Just musing here. When I checked my totals on this 67 Chevelle, I realized how much I had spent already. Then, when I realize I have two sons to send to college, I go on a guilt trip. However, like any other investmentu have to ask the question. See my further comment below to the morons on this list who have no appreciation for a legitimate question that most of us ask ourselves when we are over spending on our rides. Matt: Thanks. Your response and a few others indicate to me that my question is a legitimate one. Just like investing in stocks. Your investing in a nice ride, a classic. But, you want to also be assured that if you decide to sell it down the road, you can at least get a partial return. I don't follow the other seemingly idiotic responses from some morons on this list. But, I guess I should expect a few whackos who are not too deep in thought or patience. They would probably invest in land out in the desert just because it is there. Then question whether you should invest in worthless land. Peace...out... Big Ken[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: WHAT Do you Yahoo!?Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
RE: [Chevelle-list] How to recover a stolen chevelle??
Diane has it right on the money. The trick is to make it difficult to take. Most thefts are a crime of opportunity. Don't be a victim. electric/ fuel pump hidden kill switches are also very good. Lo-jack is anexcellent theft protection device (as long as the law enforcement agencies in your are have equipped cars and helicopters on the road for tracking your vehicle). We caught a Dodge Stratus within 2 hours of activation two weeks ago and also caught the female car thief who fled from it. Can't out run the air unit ;-) I'm going to put Lo-jack in my 70 Chevelle, 67 GTO and 55 Belair when it finally makes it out on the road. It helps reduce insurance costs in many cases and can be located in garages and storage buildings once activated. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Diane PeppinSent: Monday, August 04, 2003 1:43 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] How to recover a stolen chevelle?? ...Don't get it stolen Lo-jack is the best theft protection out there, but deterring the thieves is best. have the vin # etched on the glass, and engrave it behind all the panels, bottom insides of the fenders, and everywhere it won't show.Have a little sign that tells them you did this and hang it in the drivers window when you leave the car. If they can't change the vin, and all the major parts are engraved(by hand,don't pay) what can they do? If you sell the car, the new owner will appreciate it, and if you keep it, its safe. well of course, add an alarm, a club, a brake club, a flashing light and alarm sticker; most definitely make sure they can't open the hood;That's the key to stripping it. There are other rules too, don't leave it at 7-11 overnight, or on the side of the road. screw the tow charge. Even if it cost $200 to get it home-that's less than the cost of a new hood. Be determined to stop them. Be sure they will try to steal it. I have a neighbor who brags about being a criminal, he tells me what these guys look for. I think the chances of getting your ride returned are usually slim. Don't let it happen in the first place. Oh, I guess that's four cents... Enjoy your ride. :-Diane P.S. if the thief can reach your battery he can drill a hole in it and come back shortly when the battery alarm is dead. Best keep a second battery in the trunk as an alarm backup. I use an old 12volt cordless drill battery on a second alarm(the one I set when I leave it in a parking lot.) Try to think like a thief... good luck out there.
RE: [Chevelle-list] 1970 grill vertical moldings?
Tom, Didn't one of the dealer promo pamphlets have a 1970 SS on the cover with the two vertical grill bars? I think it was a red car with black stripes and a black top. I put them on my SS when I restored it because nobody else had them on their carsSS or Malibu. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 2:23 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1970 grill vertical moldings?In a message dated 7/25/2003 2:29:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Are there 4 straight moldings on a 1970 grill that are about 4" long apiece?I'm looking at a picture of a '70 right now and don't see any vertical grillmoldings (just the C's and the horizontal pieces), yet one of our suppliersjust came out with what they are advertising as vertical grill moldings. Anyideas?Thanks,John NastaJohn, There are only 2 vertical moldings on the 1970 grills and the are in the center of the grill. They are on Malibu grills only, SS cars do not have them.Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] 1970 grill vertical moldings?
John, I just took 3 pictures of mine if you are interested. Send me your address and I will Email them. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Friday, July 25, 2003 2:32 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 1970 grill vertical moldings? Thanks Tom, Do you happen to know if there is a picture out there on the web of a car with these moldings? John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 5:23 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1970 grill vertical moldings? In a message dated 7/25/2003 2:29:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Are there 4 straight moldings on a 1970 grill that are about 4" long apiece?I'm looking at a picture of a '70 right now and don't see any vertical grillmoldings (just the C's and the horizontal pieces), yet one of our suppliersjust came out with what they are advertising as vertical grill moldings. Anyideas?Thanks,John Nasta John, There are only 2 vertical moldings on the 1970 grills and the are in the center of the grill. They are on Malibu grills only, SS cars do not have them.Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] striped drive shaft was rear axle ratio??
Just think of the overall profits tho. If everything runs backwards you could sell back any excess gas you would generate as your gas tank would keep filling back up all by itself. Such an awful dilema. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Corgill Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] striped drive shaft was rear axle ratio?? At 08:18 AM 07/24/2003 -0500, you wrote: Stripes are just a bad idea all around. As mentioned before, if the stripes are applied wrong the torque would go towards the transmission not the rear end resulting in the trans now turning the wrong direction. If the trans is turning the wrong direction you better believe so is the engine. This would probably effect the firing order, but more importantly the fan blades would be pushing the air through the radiator from the engine side. So while driving, air naturally be pushed from the front and with the blades pushing from behind would just lead to poor cooling and burned up fan belts - better leave the stripes off the drive shaft. Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s Yes but if the engine was turning backwards then you would be going backwards in all 3-4 gears so the fan would be working right... ROTFLMAO ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
RE: [Chevelle-list] 14 to 15 rims
Sounds like any size will work. I don't know whichsize to use either, so I think I will run one each (14,15,16, and a 17) and see which one I like the best. What size should I use for the spare? ;-) Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Chad P.Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 2:00 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 14 " to 15" rims I don't know about ur 67, but my '72 which im selling has 15's all around and it rides very well! Chad - Original Message - From: rick To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:07 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] 14 " to 15" rims Last night I had someone tell me that if I change my rims from 14's to 15's that I will never be able to get the front-end in true alignment. He said he did this and wore out 2 sets of tires before he switched back to 14's. I have not heard this before and I am going to call my alignment guy to find out if he can enlighten me. I would like to hear about the good/bad that the list has run into with this. Thanks Rick 67 Chevelle ---Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 7/18/03
RE: [Chevelle-List] $@*$#@$#$@$$$ rain...
OK Bob.It's supposed to hit 116 degrees today and none of my cars have AC. Its definitely going to be a little warm in the seat, but I'm still going cruising today. Still no clouds in the sky. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Holtzman Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 10:12 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] [EMAIL PROTECTED]@$#$@$$$ rain... On Fri, 20 Jun 2003, Stephen Lentz wrote: Come on out here to Arizonathe temps are in the low 100's and there has been a nice breeze the past few days. Not a cloud in the big blue sky. Wait a month. -- Bob Holtzman Return with us now to those thrilling days of yesteryear when out of the past comes the thundering roar of an Ardun-Merc and the hearty cry of Aw shit..there goes another clutch - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] $@*$#@$#$@$$$ rain...
Come on out here to Arizonathe temps are in the low 100's and there has been a nice breeze the past few days. Not a cloud in the big blue sky. I even took the 67 GTO out for a nice Friday night driveSteve. PS...I fanned a little dry air toward the east. Hope your east coast show turns out great. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of J. Brady Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:35 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] [EMAIL PROTECTED]@$#$@$$$ rain... OK, who did the rain dance??!!?? Now they're calling for a 60% washout on Saturday.. I swear I'm moving to Arizona. Jim '66 Malibu __ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] wrecked my truck this morning
Hey Dan, the important thing is, are you OK? Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dan McIntoshSent: Monday, March 31, 2003 7:18 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] wrecked my truck this morning Can anyone give me some helpful advice. Its a 99 Ranger XLT 4X4, wrecked hard into the wall on the highway twice...(it was like pinball), anyway, its fully paid for but I only carry liability insurance. I think its totaled... so my question is... is it junk yard fodder, or is there a salvage pool in Cleveland I can contact where I may get a little bit more for it. If anyone wants pictures to assess the damages for themselves, I'll send some to you. Thanks guys... Dan McIntoshBagged 64 Impala SSwww.alloldchevy.com
RE: [Chevelle-List] rip-off body shops
You know, I'm getting tired of repeatedly getting screwed the same ways. Somebody with a web site (or someone smarter than me who knows how to build a web site ;- ) should make an "unofficial" list of good and bad shops from all over the states. I surewould haveappreciated someone telling me "Man, I wouldn't go there if I were you". It would save a lot of us guys a lot of time, money and problems. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of SteveSent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 10:29 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] rip-off body shops I waited for 6 years to save for the chance to fully restore my 1968 SS Chevelle I have owned for 26 years. In that 6 yrs., I scouted body shops to find the best to fit my requirements. I was met with statements that the shop only did insurance work, or they will never do another restoration again! But I was able to find 3 shops in the region who wanted to tackle a full restoration. I chose aguy whohad a large shop and did mostly restorations. The owner had a day job and had mechanics working the shop in the day and he worked at night. I had 3 yrs. to check out the guys work and he always seemed to know about restoration work and the problems associated with overhauling an entire classic car. I had an estimate of about $6000 for the basic work, excluding any hidden problems uncovered. He said it would take about 6 month to complete, starting in Nov 1999. To make a long story shorter, it took over a year, I had trouble finding the owner at the shop when he said he would be there, the cost ended up at over $11,000. (I had him do the interior at an interior shop, so that added about $1500.) After I finally got him to deliver the car to me, I found the quarters were original, with 1/2 inch thick bondo over the rustout areas.The agreement was to replace them with full quarters, which he charged me12 hrs labor plus parts for each side. There was still fist-size holes in the backside of the quarters, allowing exhaust to get in. The trim was falling off and the new windshield was loose! Some of the rubber/felt seals I had waited so long to have put in were in the back seat, still in the bag! I wrote up a list of complaints and gave the guy a chance to correct the problems I had found but it was then that several people told me to get the car back because the guy was known to remove SS emblems and such to sell, or not even give your original car back! I had to find another shop fast to determine what was done/not done in order to sue the 1st guy. I was lucky to find a shop up the road from the 1st shop who was familiar with his ways and had in fact redone several classic cars for the same reason as me! One guy who got ripped off was a judge! The second shop (Reflections Automotive, Belleville, IL) was great in assisting me and even sent a mechanic with me to small claims court as an expert witness. They did 1 or 2 classic cars at a time and they were only fill-in work between insurance stuff. These guys took my 68 apart down to the frame and repaired areas that I wouldn't have thought of. Plus, they took digital pictures of the restoration as proof, and I was invited to review my car at any time! In the end, I had more things repaired/corrected than the 1st guy ever would have done. Door windows roll like new, no leaks, trunk like new, etc. Paint looks like factory and all the trim lines up and is secured and tight. There is no place I have found that was missed. So there are a few shops in my area still accepting certain types of classic restoration work, but on their terms and cost will be up there. But if you don't get the right person or shop on your classic, read the above again. You will end up in some kind of mess like I did. Steve ACES # 5494
RE: [Chevelle-List] Starting Problem ??
Title: Message I've had these problems before as well. Once it was because the starter would seize up while it was hot from the exhaust headers and would not turn over until it cooled. The second time, I believe that my wiring was incorrect and the switch wire was having it's voltage reduced through a ceramic voltage reducer on the firewall that was meant for the distributor (I think). Check to see if you are getting all 12 volts at the end of the switch wire. Bad connections might reduce the voltage and make it tuff to turn over when it is hot. Good luck and let us know. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Friday, March 14, 2003 12:50 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Starting Problem ?? I have had odd problems before where one of the battery terminals was actually cracked. Try wiggling the terminals to see what happens to the voltage. Also try watching the voltage as you turn the key. Does it stay still or drop to zero (or six volts)? Other possibilities are bad grounds. Do you put the charge across the battery, or use a separate ground? One diagnostic would be to get a second battery and wire it in. If the car still does not start, then it is in the car. If it cranks and starts, it is in the battery. Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])'66 Convertible | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFGs'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | '79 F-Body Brakes -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 10:42 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Starting Problem ??I have a qestion regading starting my car. When I start the car I have to use a battery charger, but however I took the battery and had ur tested and it reads well and its not in the battery. When you turn the key it wont start but when you put the charger to it it starts and runs, but then when you turn it off NOTHING !! Then you sit for a few minutes and it cranks again. And the process repeats itself over and over. I have put in new plugs, starter, coil, wires,distributor, points,cables, coil and so on as the list grows. There is only one thing that I have noticed is that the ignition wire coming from the harness to the coil is frayed and gets hot when you leave the key on. But the engine still starts. I have a 350 cu in in there. Any suggestions or solutions ?? Playing process and elimination is taking its toll on me and my wallet.thanks for any help someone can giveJohnMalibuman66Phila, Pa
RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle WORLD (Jan./Feb. '03)
I'll bite. How do I get a subscription to Chevelle World? Can it be found at the supermarket mag rack or is it included with a membership to a particular club. Steve PS- is it worth the cost (whatever that may be)? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Monday, March 10, 2003 4:52 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle WORLD (Jan./Feb. '03) Same here. This will be my first time to ever attend the event. The pony express hasn't delivered mine,yet. Clint HooperLT5 Registry Director'91 ZR-1 Callaway Aerobodyhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/'69 El Camino ProTourer ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm'99 Honda F6 Valkyrie custom for sale - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I still have not gotten mine yet, hoping it gets here by the end of the week. I need to get both of my cars registered for CB 03, that's right, I'm bringing 2 cars this year :-D.Tom
RE: [Chevelle-List] 6 Fiberglass Cowl Hood
I think I forgot my 70hmmm, now where did I leave it? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of WayneSent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 4:26 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 6" Fiberglass Cowl Hood LARRY LARRY LARRY LARRY..r "64-65's actually seem to be the Forgotten ones " Truer words werer never SPOKEN,, These are the frist and Truly FORGOTTEN CHEVELLES Ifit were not for Jim Smith at CHP yoy would never see any early Chevelles.. or vary FEW.. my .02 Wayne From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 2:40 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 6" Fiberglass Cowl Hood Pstt Dale: let us not forget about 64-65's as not all parts are interchangeable with them. 64-65's actually to me seem to be the "FORGOTTEN ONES." Lsrry (z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] Cam Replacement
Title: Message I put an LS6 cam in my 70 without taking the grill out (just the radiator). Good luck on the operation and remember to break it in. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John W. Lonadier, Jr.Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 9:02 AMTo: Chevelle NetSubject: [Chevelle-List] Cam Replacement Well I did it, I flattened a lobe on my cam. What I would like to find out from the list is if it is possible to change out the cam while engine still in car without having to pull the grill out of my '70? I know that the radiator and A/C condenser coil will have to come out, but I hoping that I can get out of pulling out the grill. Thanks in advance, John L. ACES #5597 70 SS 454 LS5 CLONE
RE: [Chevelle-List] frames
I'll ride along to make sure it is handled properly -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 10:57 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] framesAndre lives in Italy / will you include shipping for that price?
RE: [Chevelle-List] frames
HmmmI could if I used my wife's suitcaseshe's had me carry heavier loads to the airport in the past...The frame would be rather light. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of TigerguttSent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 11:28 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] frames Stephen, if you plan on coming to Italy anyway, why dont you put the frame in your suitcase. a dinner for the hassle hahaha Kind Regards Andr - Original Message - From: Stephen Lentz To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 3:12 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] frames I'll ride along to make sure it is handled properly -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 10:57 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] framesAndre lives in Italy / will you include shipping for that price?
RE: [Chevelle-List] frames
Ah Ha! One I can answer! Andre, Any 68 to 72 A-body frame. An A-body is any of the other similar GM cars like the Pontiac Lemans GTO, Olds Cutlass, Buick Skylark, etc. Just make sure the donor car is a 68-72 AND a 2-door. ElCaminos and 4-doors have longer frames. Convertible frames are the same length but are re-enforced, heavier, and more expensive. Well class, how did I do? Good luck Andre. Make sure it is straight and as rust-free as possible. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 7:53 AM To: chevelle-list Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] frames Hi Guys, Could somebody please tell me which frames would fit my 1968 chevelle coupe. thanks ! André -Original Message- From: Crazy Rusty [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 10:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Blinkers blink too fast. ___ This message, including any attachments, may contain information that is confidential and proprietary information of Advanced Energy Industries, Inc. The dissemination, distribution, use or copying of this message or any of its attachments is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of Advanced Energy Industries, Inc. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] (was) Matching Numbers?/ (now) slam on List Member
I agree completely. Rocky Hill has always provided me with helpful, accurate information. Obviously you are on the wrong list and are addressing the wrong person. Maybe you should direct your apparent anger toward the correct source and work on improving your sentence structure. This list is reserved for friendly people who have banded together to promote a common good- restoring classic Chevelle iron. Sincerely, Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Krister Meister Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 7:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] (was) Matching Numbers?/ (now) slam on List Member Why would you write something like you did? The Rocky Hill I know doesn't fall at all into the category you described, has always provided very helpful information, and lives no where near Winchester, VA. Krister Lorrie Rhoton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: cc: (bcc: Krister Meister/PBU/Nsk-Corp) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fax to: velles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Matching Numbers? 02/26/2003 08:14 PM Please respond to chevelle-list Hey Rockey Hill Are you asshole who lives in Winchester Va ! Yes you are! - Original Message - From: rocky hill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 8:38 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Matching Numbers? Nobody really answered his question, If the numbers that ARE stamped to the right of the Tonawanda numbers do not match the VIN, than more than likely it's not the original engine. I don't know of any other numbers that would be stamped there other than the VIN. Rocky --- McLerran, Larry W. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Guys, I have a 1970 El Camino SS, 396/402 T0123CTX and it is stamped on the front right corner of the block, on the left rear corner of the of the block above the the oil filter is stamped theVIN# of my CAR!! Some blocks, depending upon the FINAL ASSEMBLY PLANT did stamp the VIN# next to the pad where Tonawanda stamped the block! Remember, there WAS NOT uniform compliance in the assembly plants, just like the stampings on the Muncie's, some VIN's on the TOP rear of main case, some next to the Muncie build date on the right side, next to the center support plate!!! Larry! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 2:59 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Matching Numbers? In a message dated 2/26/2003 5:43:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: On the subjec of matching numbers. My 70 SS block, heads, intake, AC pump, starter trans, rear end, all seem to be dead on matches for the build date. For example, the heads were cast in May, the block June 18, and so on, and the car was built September 1 in Oshua, Ontario. The build data supplied to me by GM Oshua ties out as well. BUT, there is another number on the pad at the front of the passenger side of the block next to the T0618CTX number but THAT number does not correspond to the VIN (it is 10A750779). I never gave it a thought until last night when I was reading through some stuff I found on the internet that said that number should be the VIN. On my block, it can't be the VIN because it has the letter A in it. Does anyone know what gives with this stuff Craig E. The VIN is not on the engine. The VIN doesn't tell what motor came in the car unless it is a 72 model. T0618CTX is as follows: T=Tonowanda 0618=June 18 of the model year, CTX=engine suffix which is a 396/350 with a 4 speed. Tom __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/ - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date:
RE: [Chevelle-List] 71 frame
I just bought 1 two weeks ago for $250.00. That sounded fair for a straight, rust-free one. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of JAMES GROOVERSent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 7:20 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Fw: [Chevelle-List] 71 frame - Original Message - From: JAMES GROOVER To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 10:08 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] 71 frame I HAVE A 1971 FRAME FOR A CHEVELLE GOOD SHAPE DONT KNOW WHAT IT IS WORTH WOULD LIKE TO SELL IT IF SOMEONE WOULD LIKE TO TELL ME WHAT THEY GO FOR OR ARE INTERESTED LET ME KNOW ITS JUST THE FRAME JAMES FROM SAVANNAH GA.
RE: [Chevelle-List] more new stuff 1968-72
John, do you carry trim rings, center caps and purdy chrome lug nuts for 14 1970 SS wheels? If so, how much? Steve BTW...do you also sell complete 4-speed consoles for 70's? How much for them also?? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 12:57 PM To: Chevelle List Subject: [Chevelle-List] more new stuff 1968-72 Newly available: 1970-72 heater control set. This is the entire unit with faceplate, levers, knobs, fan switch, and guts hanging out the back. Very cool (or hot depending on how you set it). - Fits Chevelle / El Camino / Monte Carlo with A/C. 1966-68 Bucket Seat Frame Assembly - GM A-Body (Chevelle, GTO, Skylark, Cutlass) - Does not include springs. Very nice though. 1968 Front Bumper Brackets - 4 pc set - Chevelle / El Camino 1970 Rear Bumper Brackets - 4 pc set - Chevelle 1971-72 Rear Bumper Brackets - 4 pc set - Chevelle 1968-72 Rear Window Shelf Panel - El Camino There ya go... John Nasta - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 454
Danny, Let me know if he comes across any 409 stuff. My dad is building a roller motor for his 63. Thanks, Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 8:58 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 454Hey Danny, Well tell me what he gets ahold of and maybe we'll do some tradin. : ) Thanks David 67 Chevelle
[Chevelle-List] awfully quiet out there
Hey...is my computer working? I haven't seen any new messages lately. I picked up my new frame and took it to my body man's house to get sandblasted. I was so inspired that I opened my rear garage door and began sandblasting the rest of my SS wheels. I just got done putting my third coat of sandable primer. One or two of the wheels have some pitting in noticeable areas. The pits may be too deep for the primer. Should I use some kind of body filler to make everything super smooth? What would be a good filler to use. Secondly, what grade sandpaper should I use to wet-sand the wheels after I get through building a good primer base? If everything works out OK, I might be getting BFG Radial T/A tires mounted the end of next weekend. Should I go with Comp T/A's instead. I probably won't be going to the track, but I do see a bit of street tests. By the way, does anyone out there sell the trim rings and center caps? Mine are pitted and scratched up. Have a great weekend! Steve --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Frame question
I found a rust-free, straight, Arizona frame for a 70 Cutlass 2-door HT for $250.00. The frame is already stripped except for the front sway bar and the fuel/brake lines. I just wanted to make sure that everything is the same as a Chevelle frame so I can put it under my 70SS without any surprises. Can anybody give me a quick note letting me know if the frames are the same. Do they have the same part number so I can verify? Thanks for your help, Steve --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame question
Thanks John and Tom. I'll let the guy know and try to swim out to my car trailerand get it ready to pick up the frame (we got hammered with rain over the past two days, but the sun is out now and everything is starting to dry). Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 4:25 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame questionIn a message dated 2/14/2003 4:43:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I found a rust-free, straight, Arizona frame for a 70 Cutlass 2-door HT for$250.00. The frame is already stripped except for the front sway bar andthe fuel/brake lines. I just wanted to make sure that everything is thesame as a Chevelle frame so I can put it under my 70SS without anysurprises. Can anybody give me a quick note letting me know if the framesare the same. Do they have the same part number so I can verify?Thanks for your help,SteveIdenticalTom
RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame question
John, No, I don't think I'm related to Tom...but if he's rich, let me know, I'll check it out further ;*) Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Friday, February 14, 2003 4:48 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame question Good luck Steve. BTW are you related to Tom Lentz? He is another car buff. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stephen LentzSent: Friday, February 14, 2003 6:36 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame question Thanks John and Tom. I'll let the guy know and try to swim out to my car trailerand get it ready to pick up the frame (we got hammered with rain over the past two days, but the sun is out now and everything is starting to dry). Steve
RE: [Chevelle-List] New Member
Welcome Joe! This is a great list to be on. There are a lot of guys here who know a TON of stuff about Chevelles. I'm always picking their brains about something. Never feel free to add your two cents either. p.s.- just don't ask anyone how to get off the list ;-) Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John NastaSent: Friday, February 14, 2003 4:50 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] New Member Welcome to the list Joe. We have quite a few 69 owners here. I have a 69 El Camino myself. John Nasta http://johnnasta.com/elcamino -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 6:44 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] New Member Hello everyone, I just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Joe and I just signed on this Chevelle list. I have been restoring a 69 Conv. Chevelle Malibu for about 1 year now. Complete Frame off restoration. I hope to contribute to this list, and hopefully learn with all of you. Thank you in advance for letting me participate Joe Preteroti
RE: [Chevelle-List] clones
Hi, My 70 has a Texas reconstruction tag on the driver's door frame and the sixth digit in the VIN has been changed to an "R". I know that this means the car was probably wrecked badly at one time or built from many different Chevelles (I guess that makes it a clone regardless of how it is put together). Is there a way that I can find out the history/origin of my car? I would like to know how it came into existence and find out what the donor cars were if possible. Where are the hidden VINs?
RE: [Chevelle-List] clones
How awful. Do you think they keep any public records that would let me know the history of the car? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of WayneSent: Monday, February 10, 2003 6:50 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] clones Can'ts peak for any other state Then PA, But a "R " tag means reconstructed and that can be anything. The the insurance co totals the car. it gos to a clearing lot, and Then ? In Pa this could be stolen, stripped. flood, crashed, Fire, you then have to go through a Recnstruction title proceedure PITA these days, and you wil have a R titled CAR.in PA. Wayne ACES #1556 TCG #186 - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 8:39 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] clones The re-tag probably means that it was stolen and stripped at one time. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stephen LentzSent: Monday, February 10, 2003 8:31 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] clones Hi, My 70 has a Texas reconstruction tag on the driver's door frame and the sixth digit in the VIN has been changed to an "R". I know that this means the car was probably wrecked badly at one time or built from many different Chevelles (I guess that makes it a clone regardless of how it is put together). Is there a way that I can find out the history/origin of my car? I would like to know how it came into existence and find out what the donor cars were if possible. Where are the hidden VINs?
RE: [Chevelle-List] Power Tour
Hey everyone, Where is the Chevellabration held each year? Does the Power Tour pass near Arizona? Thanks -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 6:43 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Power Tour Clint Get your wife or a good friend to drive one so we can see 'em both !!! My 70 LS6 is still 2 or more years away, but Chevellabration is a very good show. It was cool just driving around the hotels checking out all the Chevelles before the show. There was 3 or 4 just at the hotel I was at. Bill C - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.445 / Virus Database: 250 - Release Date: 1/21/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.445 / Virus Database: 250 - Release Date: 1/21/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Mentioning Classic Pickup For Sale For Family Friend
Well, the license plate must be worth something! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dave Corgill Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 5:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Mentioning Classic Pickup For Sale For Family Friend At 06:23 AM 02/03/2003 -0500, you wrote: F@rd makes a pickup? They had to make one so the driver would have lots of space to put the parts that fell off while on the road ;) - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.445 / Virus Database: 250 - Release Date: 1/21/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.445 / Virus Database: 250 - Release Date: 1/21/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] winter show season
Darrell, I live in Mesa. Do you hit the Scottsdale Pavilions weekly? Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Spencer, Darrell Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 9:38 PM To: 'Mach4 '; '[EMAIL PROTECTED] ' Subject: [Chevelle-List] winter show season Sorry guys. Been in the mid-70's all January here in the metro Phoenix area. (That's almost 10 degrees warmer than usual - even for here).110 in July and August is no different than 10 in January and February. I lived in Massachusetts once. But it's our show and cruise season. Once again, I feel compelled to plug the greatest car spectacle I've ever attended - Barrett-Jackson in Scottsdale. I was there last Saturday and I've got to say that it just keeps getting better every year. Everything from Dusenbergs to Ferraris. But, muscle cars dominated the procedings and have taken the world's fancy by a storm. Where once the European exotics generated the most interest, things are shifting to classic Detroit muscle now. Chevelles were extremely well represented this year. Check out the following link and you'll see what I mean. Search on Chevelle: http://barrettjackson.com/auctionresults/default.asp A lot of the reason for the high prices is that deep-pocketed baby boomers from all over the world come to Scottsdale in January. Barrett-Jackson is the premier event and has spawned several others here, too. At Barrett-Jackson, 8000 registered bidders vie for around 800 cars - hence the higher prices. The auction is only part of the spectacle. Hundreds of vendors. Absolutely a must see if you're ever in the neighborhood in January. Come to think of it, it's a good reason to come in January. That and the 75 degree sunny weather. Hell, I got a little sunburn Saturday! Cheers! Darrell Spencer Cave Creek, Arizona '66 El Camino '70 Malibu '73 Bonneville (Triumph) '75 GMC '01 Blazer -Original Message- From: Mach4 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 1/21/03 7:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks I feel real sorry for you warm weather folks out there...we had a high of 10* again today, and it's supposed to continue like this all week. I heard a chill factor (wind compounding the cold temps, for you from the tropics...) of -18* yesterday. But we still don't have hardly any snow - I haven't had the tractor running since I took the mower deck off and mounted the blower. I wonder if the 396 would even fire up? It doesn't start real easy in the summer! Jimcentral WisconsinACES #20202 - '66 SS's - Original Message - From: Chevelle mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 69 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:21 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks Dave, where are you at in Ohio? While I agree with you that some of the boys in blue in some places, mostly hiway guys and some little town guys, can be a little tight, I know one great city cop that talks common sense. He's a great member of our Tri-State Chevelle club. In fact we made him our Sgt-At-Arms :) He's on this list so be expecting some comments. As for the winter and cold ok ...have to agree a bit there. Pretty hard to do much including work on cars. While my garage is heated, when you do something where you need to get rid of fumes letting a 10 degree wind come through kinda shivers your wrenches. But the one thing I will have to disagree with you on is the general statement that Ohio is not the car friendliest place in the world. Ok ..well maybe not THE friendliest ...at least in the sense that you refer to, but with Jegs, Summit, Flaming River, and a whole bunch of other car related businesses I can't even think of being located here, and the great shows in Columbus such as Good Guys, big events at the raceways, being centrally located so we can go to Chevellabration in a few hours, Muscle car nationals in even less, Indy for a while host of car related events, and even Carlisle on the other side. did I mention Michigan above us? Well I think you get the point :) Hang on man ...spring will be here in a matter of days! January is almost over! Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Dave Studly Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 6:05 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks, was: DC World of Wheels Show It's been so cold here and since I store my cars off my property, I'd almost forgotten about them. We're in our 2nd or 3rd straight week with temperatures below freezing, and it's not letting up for at least another week. Cops in the summer, salt in the winter-- Ohio is not the car-friendliest place in the world. *sigh* -Dave it's so cold, even my e-mail turned blue! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John W. Lonadier, Jr. Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 11:22 AM To: [EMAIL
RE: [Chevelle-List] Suspension bushings
Dwight, I put polygraphite bushings on my Chevelle while I still lived in Pennsylvania. The front sway bar bushings didn't fit right (too big) and yes, everything squeaksNext time, I'm just going to put the stock ones back on. After all, they worked fine for 20+ years. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dwight FultonSent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 7:39 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Suspension bushings I'm getting ready to redo the suspension on my 72 El Camino and would like to use polyurethane bushings but, have heard several horror stories about the urethane bushings squeaking. Anybody have any experience with these bushings? Are graphite inpregnated poly bushing OK? or do they squeak also. Hate to spend 300.00 or more on the suspension bushings that will drive me nuts. Thanks, Dwight MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. Get 2 months FREE*. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks
Title: Message Don, Hey, I'm a recruiter for Mesa PD. We are hiring. Just think...today was 70 degrees. I took my Chevelle to the academy to hear Captain Gordon Graham (CHP) talk about risk management. Drove home with all the windows down. Let me know if you or any of your buddies are interested in moving out west where you truly can cruise every weekend. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of DonSent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 7:44 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks I'm in the Cleveland area. I guess I just have SoCal envy.. :-)(or any other part of the country where you can drive classics all year round). I understand where you're coming from Dave. Ohio winter's suck! It's hard not to envy those that live in Ca. or Fl. when you're shivering in your boots while you stand in snow gaze at your beloved Chevelle under the car cover. Yeah, I guess you make a good point about all the stuff that is in Ohio. I do happen to enjoy driving to Summit (45 mins) when I'm buying new parts. Carlisle is an annual tradition for a group of us. I think Chevellabration would be an 8 hour drive for me. Steve made some great points too. Aside from the weather, Ohio is really pretty "car friendly". There are lots of car related things to do organizations around here. We're also pretty centrally located for a lot of car stuff going on in the Eastern or Midwestern part of the country. It's just too cold! Br... My thermometer at 6:30pm reads 10 degrees. My garage is both un-insulated and un-heated. Actually, last night it was so cold that my fluorescent lights wouldn't turn on out there. I agree! Cold Sucks! I have to workout in it all night! Try standing in the middle of the highway trying to clear up an auto accident when it's 10 degrees with a howling wind blinding snow every other driver is irrate wants to run you over! As for the cops,there's good ones to be found everywhere -- except in my rearview. HaHa! I understand. Yeah, there are good cops bad cops just like there are good bad mechanics, plumbers, etc. But really, what we usually get upset about is when they "catch us" when we're doing something we know we really shouldn't be doing. It is natural to bad mouth the cop because he wrote us a ticket "just because we laid rubber for 100 feet...sideways" He was just doing his job. We all know it, we just don't want to admit it. Human nature. Be careful out there, Don your friendly neighborhood cop -Dave From: Chevelle 69 Dave, where are you at in Ohio? While I agree with you that some of the boys in blue in some places, mostly hiway guys and some little town guys, can be a little "tight", I know one great city cop that talks common sense. He's a great member of our Tri-State Chevelle club. In fact we made him our Sgt-At-Arms :) He's on this list so be expecting some comments. As for the winter and cold ok ...have to agree a bit there. Pretty hard to do much including work on cars. While my garage is heated, when you do something where you need to get rid of fumes letting a 10 degree wind come through kinda shivers your wrenches. But the one thing I will have to disagree with you on is the general statement that Ohio is not the car friendliest place in the world. Ok ..well maybe not THE friendliest ...at least in the sense that you refer to, but with Jegs, Summit, Flaming River, and a whole bunch of other car related businesses I can't even think of being located here, and the great shows in Columbus such as Good Guys, big events at the raceways, being centrally located so we can go to Chevellabration in a few hours, Muscle car nationals in even less, Indy for a while host of car related events, and even Carlisle on the other side. did I mention Michigan above us? Well I think you get the point :) Hang on man ...spring will be here in a matter of days! January is almost over! Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Dave StudlySent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 6:05 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] winter sucks, was: DC World of Wheels Show It's been so cold here and since I store my cars off my property, I'd almost forgottenabout them. We're in our 2nd
[Chevelle-List] Muncie shifter handle on a Hurst shifter
Dale, I was admiring the background on the scan with the wiper arm remover tool and happened to look at your odd ball stuff page. You show a Hurst shifter with a Muncie lever. Do you know if anyone makes this adaptor. I'm not much of a welder and don't have the equipment anyway. I can't seem to get my Muncie shifter to go in reverse unless I have a spare minute or three to wiggle the handle (a lot) before getting it to go. I've also found that the time takes much longer if there are women present or another vehicle waiting for me to back up. I think I'm going to buy a Hurst Comp Plus shifter (the 8014 model) and the Hurst installation kit (the 7834 model) as well as new steel bushings and a backup light switch (Yippee- no more ugly toggle switch on the transmission hump!). Hopefully this combination using the Hurst shifter with the Muncie handle will work with my stock console and bucket seats and still look correct. My car is a 70. Do you sell Hurst goodies or do you know anyone who can beat Summit's price/service? Thanks, Steve --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.443 / Virus Database: 248 - Release Date: 1/10/2003 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 383 Stroker Engine in 67 Chevelle=Oil Pressure too Low ???
Ken, I had a similar problem with widely varying oil pressure.didn't do anything about it for about 7 years (just figured it was what happens with a high volume oil pump and a stock pan - running dry when accelerating) The needle would shoot down to 0 and then immediately bounce back up. Turns out that the screen fell off of the puck up tube and was just lying in the bottom of the pan. It had a huge dent in it- probably from hitting the crank at one time. I was damn lucky I didn't have a mess on my hands if that pick-up got wedged in the crank.still makes my hair stand up thinking about it. I would definitely drop the pan far enough to just check. The guy who built my motor must have just stuck it on. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ken's EmailSent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 3:42 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] 383 Stroker Engine in 67 Chevelle=Oil Pressure too Low ??? I posted this on the Team Chevelle Tech List and seek additional inputs from Chevelle and other auto experts. Thanks. I have a 383 stroker engine in my 67 Chevelle. The engine has supposedly 2500 miles on it. I have also just put in new autoguage meters. The issue is the oil pressure readings. When starting at cold, the pressure is up around 40 plus. At warmup if I am driving it the 40 to 60 mph range, the oil pressure is in the 30 to 35 range, usually staying around 32. However, at idle the oil pressure is around 10 to 12 psi. Sometimes it drops to 8 psi. If you put it in neutral at a stop light from drive (I have automatic trans), it will climb back up to 12 psi at idle. If you put it in reverse at idle it drops to 6 psi. When accelerating again from idle the oil pressure goes up in increments, based on speed, to 30 to 32 psi--where it remains constant. My concern is the idle pressure. Is this oil pressure at idle too low and should it be higher ? Change oil pump or pick up tube ? I have had conflicting opinions and seek addtional advice. There is no blue smoke or knocking that I can detect at this time. Engine runs smooth and strong and I do not appear to be using or burning oil. Thanks, Ken McDee Do you Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
RE: [Chevelle-List] Bad gassy smell with holley carb @ idle
Maybe the stinky problem is stemming from the "crab rebuild place"...they smell a bit strong to begin with! I fixed my Holley problem by installing a Carter 750best repair I ever made to my Holley. Sorry, I just couldn't resist either. Seriously, good luck. Holleys are tricky critters that provide a lot of opportunities for weekly tuning practice if they are not built by someone with a lot of experience. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:47 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Bad gassy smell with holley carb @ idleDoes anyone have any suggestions as far as getting rid of bad gassy smell @ idle? I think it's took rich but was told by a crab rebuild place today that it was probably to lean. I running a 600 holley vacuum secondary on a 350 bored . 030 with headers 290 duration cam .447 lift.Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
RE: [Chevelle-List] Bad gassy smell with holley carb @ idle
Dan, I'm sold on the Edelbrock/Carter AFB style carb. I have a 750 on my 454 and a 600 on my 350 (330 hp). The 650 might give the 350 a little boost; however, too much carb is as bad as not enough. You really need to talk to an enginebuilder or one of the very qualified guys on the list that can give you the calculations for the correct CFM to use for your specific application. As far as Holley vs. AFB, it really is a personal preference.I have purchased about five AFB style carbs from both Edelbrock and Carter and every one of them were simple bolt on applications. They run very good out of the box and normally I only set the idle and go...Changing out primaries and secondaries are easy and only take a few minutes. You can get jetting kits at any parts store too. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 7:18 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Bad gassy smell with holley carb @ idleI have considered this approach. What size motor are you running with the 750. (someone also told me that I may need a 650 instead of a 600).What kind of problems where you having with your holley that made you switch to carter?Did you have to dial in your carter also?Thanks again.DanIn a message dated 1/5/03 2:11:18 AM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Maybe the stinky problem is stemming from the "crab rebuild place"...they smell a bit strong to begin with! I fixed my Holley problem by installing a Carter 750best repair I ever made to my Holley. Sorry, I just couldn't resist either. Seriously, good luck. Holleys are tricky critters that provide a lot of opportunities for weekly tuning practice if they are not built by someone with a lot of experience.Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:47 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Bad gassy smell with holley carb @ idleDoes anyone have any suggestions as far as getting rid of bad gassy smell @ idle? I think it's took rich but was told by a crab rebuild place today that it was probably to lean. I running a 600 holley vacuum secondary on a 350 bored . 030 with headers 290 duration cam .447 lift.Any help greatly appreciated.
RE: [Chevelle-List] SAD DAY AS A CHEVELLE OWNER
Kent, How do you like that 502? does it feel better than an LS-6? Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kent LewisSent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 1:01 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] SAD DAY AS A CHEVELLE OWNER Larry, You know maybe those hydraulics could come in handy. For example, changing a flat tire, adding fluid to the rear differential, detailing the bottom of the car, etc. Then again...maybe not. :) Kent '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102
[Chevelle-List] wheels and tires
OK everybody, I just spent an hour at Big-O Tires looking at something to put on my stock 14 SS rims. I'm sure you get this question all of the time, but what is the biggest tires you can run on stock rims for the front and back tires? The car is a 70 SS. By the way, what are a good brand of tires to use that will get some traction for those special occasions on the street and still have decent life? The guy behind the counter was trying to push BF Goodrich Radial TA's. I did like the square profile that you would see from behind the car. I am currently running General XP2000 P235x60xR14's and I hate them. The measure almost exactly 25 in outer diameter (too small and look like they belong on that green 65 on Ebay)-yuck. I like the old fashion look of a tire filling the wheel well (without rubbing or clearance problems, of course) The guy behind the counter (who only understands low profile import tires) thought I might like a set of P245x60xR14 BF Radial TA's. The outer diameter measures 25.6. Will this tire look that much bigger in the wheel well? I want to see as little inner fender well as possible. Any help before I go back to Big-O would be greatly appreciated. P.S. anybody in the Phoenix area is invited to stop by the Nifty 50's restaurant/bar in Phoenix tonight for a car show/sock hop with my car club (Desert Classic Chevy's). It should be a blast! arrive before 5:30pm to beat the cover charge. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.434 / Virus Database: 243 - Release Date: 12/25/2002 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:35:39 -0600
Kent, Sweet! I hope everything goes well for you. I've been debating getting a ZZ502 for my 55 Belair project because its a heavy car. Just wondering if it is worth getting for its bolt-on performance or if other members found it is better to just build up a 454. They sure seem like a great hi-performance base motor that will provide a lot of opportunities to build on (if 502 horses and 567 foot-pounds don't crack a smile ;-) ). I think it would work well with a Tremec TKO 5-speed and a F**D 9" with Currie 3.55 gearswith Mosier axles. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kent LewisSent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 1:27 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:35:39 -0600 Steve, The car is not done yet, still building. Thereare a lot of things toupgrade when changing from a lonely 307 w/"slip-n-slide" trans and a one legged 10 bolt, etc. to a 502 w/bullet proof 400 trans and a Moser 12 bolt. Not to mention the changes to the suspension, handling, fuel system, and trying to make it look "factory" under the hood. But, my "Honey Do list" is done. And I have the green light to finish the Chevelle !! Only 159 days till Chevellabration 2003. Kent '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 :) ACES #5102 Kent, How do you like that 502? does it feel better than an LS-6? Steve
RE: [Chevelle-List] wheels and tires
John, The BF Goodrich site doesn't list a P235x70Rx14. How old are your tires? If my monkey math serves me right, your sidewall height must be about 6.5 inches. Using the same math, a P245x60Rx14 would have a 5.8 inch sidewall. BF does list a P225x70Rx14 with an overall diameter of 26.5 inchesapproximately a 6.3 inch sidewall. I don't know if the 225's would look OK. I would think they would be a little thin from behind. Let me know if you can still get the 235x70's somewhere...they sound like a good overall size. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John W. Lonadier, Jr. Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 1:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] wheels and tires Stephen, I also have a 70 SS with stock 14 wheels. I've got a set of Radial T/A's on it, size 235 70R 14. They fill the rear wheel well to where you cannot see the top of the tire looking level at it, as for the front tire there is approximately 1 above the tire that can be seen. Hope that helps. John L. ACES #5597 70 SS 454 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Stephen Lentz Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] wheels and tires OK everybody, I just spent an hour at Big-O Tires looking at something to put on my stock 14 SS rims. I'm sure you get this question all of the time, but what is the biggest tires you can run on stock rims for the front and back tires? The car is a 70 SS. By the way, what are a good brand of tires to use that will get some traction for those special occasions on the street and still have decent life? The guy behind the counter was trying to push BF Goodrich Radial TA's. I did like the square profile that you would see from behind the car. I am currently running General XP2000 P235x60xR14's and I hate them. The measure almost exactly 25 in outer diameter (too small and look like they belong on that green 65 on Ebay)-yuck. I like the old fashion look of a tire filling the wheel well (without rubbing or clearance problems, of course) The guy behind the counter (who only understands low profile import tires) thought I might like a set of P245x60xR14 BF Radial TA's. The outer diameter measures 25.6. Will this tire look that much bigger in the wheel well? I want to see as little inner fender well as possible. Any help before I go back to Big-O would be greatly appreciated. P.S. anybody in the Phoenix area is invited to stop by the Nifty 50's restaurant/bar in Phoenix tonight for a car show/sock hop with my car club (Desert Classic Chevy's). It should be a blast! arrive before 5:30pm to beat the cover charge. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.434 / Virus Database: 243 - Release Date: 12/25/2002 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.434 / Virus Database: 243 - Release Date: 12/25/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.434 / Virus Database: 243 - Release Date: 12/25/2002 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 66 Wiper Switch
Dan, I must have read those instructions wrong when I did mine...I started with the beer and repeated step 1 as often as necessary! -steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dan McIntoshSent: Monday, December 16, 2002 6:10 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 66 Wiper Switch Big hammer. No really, on my 65 there was a little screw on the knob, loosen it, remove knob, then a nut at the bottom of the shaft with 2 holes in it. use a small screwdriver, spin nut. very tight, use penetrating oil. remove nut, push on switch, at which time it will disappear behind the dash. get a flashlight, kneel down, contort yourself to a position to allow looking under the dash. find switch, remove harness plug, call for ambulance to untwist your body from under dash, go inside, drink beer. hope this helps you somewhat Dan McIntosh64 Impala SSwww.alloldchevy.com
RE: [Chevelle-List] checking an engine
Check around the timing chain cover and harmonic balancer for leaks. The seals on 327's are notorious for leaking around hereat least I never had to change oil, anything in there didn't stay long enough to even get dirty. Fill the oil and check the gas. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of jason pollock Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 11:51 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] checking an engine i am going to look at a327 motor today,it has supposedly been rebuilt.any tips on what to look for that will save me buying junk? jason pollock - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Operating temperature
Tim, I live in Mesa, AZ. It is a little warmer here than in Tucson. My 70 has a 454 in it. It is a bored 30-over LS5 with a LS6 cam. I am running a regular clutch fan and am using a regular four-core radiator built for me by a commercial truck company (my dad's a trucker and the radiator was like $175.00). My car runs through metro Phoenix (mostly the east valley) all day in the summer without breaking 200 degrees. It usually holds steady at 195 and will only walk to 200 if I am stuck in rush hour. My 67 GTO, on the other hand, has a stock 300 horse 350 Chevy in it with thermostat controlled dual electric fans. I have done everything to make it run cooler but the darn thing usually runs up to 210 just by showing it a picture of a hot summer day...in traffic it runs up into the 230's. I just don't get it. Everybody I talk to around here always complains about how hot the big blocks run in the desert. I have the opposite problem. Well anyway, I don't know how to help you. I guess it comes down to how well the engine is built and what steps you take to provide reliable cooling. I have never built a motor myself so I don't know what to do inside; however, I would research and buy the coolest running radiator, use the proper ratio of coolant-to-water, flush the radiator regularly, ALWAYS use reverse osmosis mineral free water (because our tap water in the desert here is chocked full of nasty contaminants and minerals), and go to an auto parts store and get some of that red-line coolant additive that is guaranteed to drop you temperature by at least 10 degrees...it worked on the GTO and I will put it in the Chevelle now that I just forked out a lot of $$$ to put aluminum Eldebrock heads and intake on the car. You can never be too careful. P.S. Spend the money and get a good gauge kit if your car has idiot lights. Bulbs burn out. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tim Moebes Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 1:06 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Operating temperature Gents, I'm changing the subject of this thread because I had my main question answered and because I suspect my sub-question will continue to be debated. Smitty, I appreciate your input, but I simply can't believe that anything over 200 is dangerous. Perhaps you were running straight water with a low pressure cap. I drove my Elky down from Seattle to Tucson in May with just the warning light, and it came on once while stuck in Las Vegas traffic. It was hot that afternoon. I never lost coolant with the pressure cap (16 lb) and I do not have a cracked head or blown head gasket. The car ran fine cruising on the highway and it still does (great with the HEI distributor I put in down here.) When I arrived in Tucson, I put the gauge in and noted that in the heat of the day it would run at 230, way too hot, and more when stopped at a light. But that experience told me that the warning light probably didn't come on until 240 or 245. Why would it: you won't begin to lose coolant until what, 250? I never did. The aluminum crossflow rad I installed brought temps down 20 or more degrees. I agree that sustained high-speed driving at elevated temperatures is hard on the engine. I simply want input on what that point is. Perhaps more directly, I suppose I need information from other desert dwellers how hot their vehicles run under load in the heat of the day. This information will let me decide whether I need a high-flow water pump or other improvements. I haven't had the chance to seek out the local car clubs, but that is probably where I should look. Finally, I simply refuse to believe given my experience that the venerable 283 is as delicate as Smitty warns. A 20-degree operating range is absurd for an engine rebuilt with late-80s head gasket technology. Or so I hope. :-) Respectfully, Tim Moebes 66 El Camino -Original Message- Dan and Tom. I've owned many a chevelle and the 283 called for a 180 degree Thermostat. If your temp goes over 200 you could have boiling and steam, this a warning to stop and let your enigine cool down. We use to leave the engine running and spray water into the front of the Radiator until she cooled down enough to get the Rad. cap off (NEVER add water to a HOT engine with the motor turned OFF, This will surely crack you block), covering the cap to keep from getting yourself burnt, then we would add water to top her off. You reach the 220 mark and you've cooked the head gasket and probably cracked a head as well. Hope this will help, Smitty in SC - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002 --- Outgoing mail is
[Chevelle-List] Wheel painting
Gentlemen, I am going to get some new tires for my car and put them on my spare set of 70SS rims. When I dug my rims out, I noticed that they look terrible (the paint is worn thin and there is a fair amount of surface rust. What is the best and most correct way to restore them. They would be used for some shows but I really don't care about winning awards (I'm one of those guys who are there to just have a great time and DRIVE). I would; however, like to do a good job and hopefully learn something in the process. I have a 30 Gal air compressor, a small sandblaster, and a generic spray gun. Remember, I have no experience and have never used the gun (other than priming some metal closet doors). What is the correct colors and where can I get the paint. I do know how to use a spray can ;-) but I'm not sure of the quality of the spray paints on the market. Would it turn out OK if I sandblasted the rims, primed them with sandable primer, sanded them smooth to get the pits out (if any), and then used spray cans to paint? I've heard that somebody makes a template to help mask the spokes for the second color. Do the templates work? Thanks guys, Steve --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.426 / Virus Database: 239 - Release Date: 12/2/2002 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters
Title: Message Long Shifters made a goose-neck shifter for the Richmond five and six speeds that fit well with a bench seat 55 Chevy and were supposed to be better than the Richmond shifter. -Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dale McIntoshSent: Friday, December 06, 2002 5:32 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Chevelle 69Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:11 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters There is another brand of shifter that you hardly ever hear about, but the quality from what I have seen and heard is above anything out there. Chuck Hansen put one in his Chevelle Wagon on a Horse Power TV show. I had a tranny demo guy at a car show tell me there is no better shifter made and looking at them I can believe it. Chuck Hanson when I talked to him on the phone confirmed his belief in their quality and said they can't be beat. Someone, either on this list or at TC did manage to break one of the rods. He was trying to heat and reshape it to make it fit his application and it snapped. I know they come standard on some types of trannys when you buy them but don't remember which ones. Tremec 5 speeds maybe? I think the Tremec uses an internal rail shifting arrangement. Maybe you're thinking of theG-Force? http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/whygforce.asp The trouble? Very hard to find a place that sells one outright, and they are not cheap, around $450 for a 4 speed I believe. I think you have to go directly to the manufacturer now. For whatever reason I don't know Jegs doesn't carry them and Summit stopped. Maybe the cost? The name brand? "LONG" brand of Shifter. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 6:11 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shiftersHello guys,thanks for responding, anyways what does everyone use so that it fits the hump plate and can use the boot and ring so that it looks original (course without useing the stock original) or must i use it??? i need a shifter for a bench seat and looks original. Thanks again.KenD HeavyChevy
RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters
My 70SS has a M21 transmission as well as a Muncie shifter. My car has a console so I don't know if they came with different shaped handles for non-console cars. My shifter handle bolts to the shifter assembly horizontally with two bolts and then turns vertically at about 90 degrees coming up through the shifter hump. About 1/3 of the way up the handle, it twists a little and comes toward the drives seat (I assume so that the driver doesn't have to reach over as far). As far as quality, I hate the stock shifter. It has a very long throw from first to second and feels like you are shifting a sausage) I figure this is why many Chevelle owners tossed the stock shifters out and bought Hurst ones. I'm thinking about doing that myself and figuring out some way to attach the original shifter handle to make it look stock (the handle says Muncie on it). Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 1:48 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shiftersHi all, was wondering if anyone new what GM used for there Shifter on the muncie 4spd. trans. was it a hurst shifter or muncie, it is a 1970 M21 it doesn't belong in my car, the original was a M20, the shifter that i have now in there is a Hurst Comp plus and i can't get the rubber boot or the boot trim ring to line up in the center of the hump hole i'm sure i'll have to have that replaced as well as the guy i bought the car from used a quicksilver automatic and BM and hacked the hump plate to heck. and where can i get the shifter from? all help is needed lol Thanks All KenD. 72 HeavyChevyChevelle
RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters
Title: Message Yes, that is true. Mine transmission binds up often using the stock shifter assembly...usually at shows when everyone is watching or when hot girls are around. It's hard to look cool when you got to get out of the and rock it back-an-forth a few times to knock it out of "Firverse" gear (not quite first gear and not quite reverse). Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Dale McIntoshSent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:17 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shifters I think GM used Hurst as early as 68 or 69 but it wasn't the Comp Plus you have. The Comp Plus bolts to the trans where the factory model bolted to the crossmember, if memory serves, causing the linkage to bind up. I'm sure that's why a lot of owners went to the Comp Plus. Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dale's Place Team67Midwest Chevelle Regionals -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:48 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] 4 speed shiftersHi all, was wondering if anyone new what GM used for there Shifter on the muncie 4spd. trans. was it a hurst shifter or muncie, it is a 1970 M21 it doesn't belong in my car, the original was a M20, the shifter that i have now in there is a Hurst Comp plus and i can't get the rubber boot or the boot trim ring to line up in the center of the hump hole i'm sure i'll have to have that replaced as well as the guy i bought the car from used a quicksilver automatic and BM and hacked the hump plate to heck. and where can i get the shifter from? all help is needed lol Thanks All KenD. 72 HeavyChevyChevelle
RE: [Chevelle-List] Electrical problem...
Larry, By no means is wiring my specialty; however, your problems seem to be isolated to one circuit (the dash lights and taillights are on the same circuit in a lot of older..and newer...cars). The circuit you are talking about probably lies on your floorboard underneath the carpet on the driver's side of the interior (at least that's where it is in my 2-door). The insulation in these wires are verythin and may have rubbed through on some bare metal somewherecausing a dead short. If you raise the carpet a little on the drivers side, youmight be able to find the harness running to the taillights (it probably drops out of the bottom of the fuse block and runs past your high beam dimmer switch. Look to see if the harness is rubbing anywhere. This will probably be a chore for you because of your seats (the harness runs under the seat frames). Additionally, the original harness should be encased in relativelythick plastic strip through this area. The plasticstrip is flat and is not color coded- usually black or brown. There are harness connectors on both ends of the strip. I am not sure where the wires are run near the back of your car. My guess is that the dead short is back there somewhere. If you have one of those electronic multi-meters from a parts store, you can probably test the integrity of your wiring by using the supplied instruction manual. There is a certain setting where you can touch both ends of a wire with the two clips coming out of the multi-meter and it will tell you if there is a closed or open connection. When you find the wire with the open connection, then you have found the wire containing the dead short. You can then trace the wire and locate the problem. I hope this helps a little. If I am wrong, would someone please correct me so I don't burn my car up like tomorrow's turkey??? Happy Thanksgiving - Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Larry BrownSent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 3:08 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Electrical problem... I am having a problem with my 65 chevelle wagon.. I don't have any rear lights for dash lights.. when I install the fuse it snaps immediately. Also I am getting static shocks from my car(not sure if this is real or just imagined ;)) Any ideas on how to diagnose where the real problem is... I am look at the wires behind the dash, just looks like spaghetti... Thanks in advance.. Larry
RE: [Chevelle-List] Happy Thanksgiving
Hmmm, It's kind of cool here today in Arizona. It only got up to 72 degrees and it looked a little cloudy. The car shows and local cruises run every Friday and Saturday night unless it rains (but we get an average of 330 sunny days a year)The Scottsdale Pavilions McDonalds usually sees about 400+ classics every Saturday night. This might be a good weekend to roll the windows down and take the SS out for a spin. Steve P.S. - What is snow? For many of us winter is here = Chevelle's stay inside. It's snowing 3 today and I still need to move my '66 into the basement. Have fun at the Turkey Rod Run! Krister Meister Bartlett, IL '66 SS #'s matching - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] wiring problem on a 68 malibu
If you did a really good job painting then you might not be getting the metal-to-metal ground necessary to complete the circuit. I had the same problems when I repainted. Remove the bolts that you are grounding to and use a file or other abrasive to lightly remove a little of the paint around the hole. Do the same with the back of the metal fastener. Once it is re-installed, you should not be able to see any of the areas you ground back to bare metal. Hopefully there is a good ground connotion between your core support and your frame. I wonder if you can test the integrity of the ground wire-to-frame connections used by bypassing that connection and connecting the ground wire to the negative side of the battery terminal. If the problem persists, then it is probably not the ground connection; however, if the system functions properly, then there may be a ground connectivity problem. The only other variable that might throw it off and provide a false test reading is if there is more than one thing wrong at a time- that's what I usually run into with my car ;-) Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 5:58 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] wiring problem on a 68 malibu Hello, I am currently restoring a 68 malibu, I took the radiator core support off of the frame to clean and paint, and when I reassembled the wiring back onto the support I was unsure of one wire on the horn relay. Now I have a left turn signal indicator light on the dash which comes on steady with the headlights, and the right turn signal indicator stays on steady when you signal (instead of blinking.) Does this sound like it could happen due to having a wire wrong on the horn relay, or possibly a bad ground? Any help is always appreciated. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame question
Thanks to everyone for helping me with my 70 Chevelle frame question. I will keep looking for a good used one. If I understand it correctly, any two-door A-body frame will work from 68-72 (hopefully without modifications). Anybody know what a fair price would be? I live in Arizona. P.S. While looking for my frame, I've been finding more stuff for my fathers 66 Chevelle SS. I had a guy tell me that he had a 66 Box frame that would fit my dad's Chevelle. He said it came off of a 66 Elky but would work fine. He also told me that my dad's frame is a C frame so the box would fit better. Something doesn't seem right. Can anybody tell me if this is true because the frame is straight, rust-free, and $500.00. Thanks again, Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Frame question
Can anyone out there tell me if anybody is making new frames for Chevelle? If so, what type of price range are we looking at? (It's ok...I'm sitting down). I need a good rust-free frame for my 70 SS and my dad need a frame and possibly even a straight body to assist with restoring his 66 SS. We live in Arizona now, but it seems like all those Arizona Cars have already been shipped out of state. Second...I just picked up the Super Chevy Chevelle magazine and couldn't resist checking out the awesome looking 71 Elky on pages 84-86. Interesting to note that the tech box lists the transmission as a Muncie M-22 four speed with a 3,800-rpm stall convertervery interesting...Hmm...must be what he's hauling in the bed. As far as the frame question, any help would be appreciated. P.S. Dads 66 is still in Pennsylvania, but I doubt there are still any good frames/bodies remaining there either. [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Manual transmissions
I was reading the postings reference Herb's Richmond 6-speed transmission and thought of a few questions. Does the Richmond 5 and 6 speed transmissions fit into the floor humps of many 50's-60's and early 70's production GM vehicles without modifications? Will the stock console still work? How much torque will they really take? (I thing they rate at 400 foot-pounds in their ads) I have a Doug Nash racing 5 speed sitting in my garage that I ran in my 70 Chevelle for a short time. It was definitely too much for the street so I put a Muncie M-21 back in. If I recall correctly, I had to squeeze it up in the shifter hump and do a little tapping on the floor to make it fit. I don't think I was able to make the console fit either once the installation was complete. I believe the shifter was off-center toward the driver's seat. Who carries the best overdrive manual transmission that has a high torque rating and fits in the vehicle with a relatively stock appearance (no floor modifications and works with console)? I read an article about a (ugh) modified Ford Tremec 5 speed overdrive transmission built by Forte's transmissions back east. The article said it was a beefed up top-loader with three choices for shifter positions. Additionally, they gave it a 475 foot-pound torque rating. Does anybody out there have any ideas or have any experience with this Tremec TKO transmission? I was thinking of putting it in my 55 Belair if it can handle a ZZ502 (567 foot-pounds) and maybe eventually getting one for the Chevelle if it keeps everything stock looking inside. Thank you. Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Console Assembly Question
Thanks to everyone for sending me the information on the correct shifter hump for 68-72's with a console. The hump welded in nicely. I'm going to use straight silicone around the seam to water proof it. My question today lies with trimming the carpet. Should I trim the carpet so that it does not touch the rubber boot and retaining ring, or should the carpet be tucked or sandwiched into the assembly to hold it in place. I am worried that the carpet might wick in moisture during wet weather driving if-God forbid- I get stuck out in a rain storm. My car is a 70SS and I am proud to admit that it is an LS5 car (now more rare than LS6 cars -so it seams) Thanks, Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Console Assembly Question
Wow, thanks everybody. I didn't realize silicone was bad...I do have some seam sealer left from my GTO floor project. I will use that. Does anyone know what frames will fit my 70 chevelle SS. Mine is pretty rotten from the time it spent back east driving to school in the snow. The guy who put new heads on my car told me that the frame needs to be switched out with a rust-free one soon or I am going to be in big troubleI guess I wont be hot dogging any time soon. Do four-door frames work, or are the wheel bases different? I figure a 68-72 chevelle or possibly 1st generation Monte Carlo frames might be similar. Any suggestionsI live in the Phoenix Metro area now. Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Attn: Steve Lentz
Kent, No, its a LS5 454 with a LS6 cam, solid lifters, roller rockers and Edelbrock Performer square-port heads matching intake. I was thinking of saving up and putting a 502 in my 55 BelAir if it ever gets put back together. If the 454 ever blew, I would consider putting a 502 in it though. Steve -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-chevelle-list;chevelles.net]On Behalf Of Kent Lewis Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 6:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Attn: Steve Lentz Steve, Any chance you have a 502 in your Chevelle ? ( [EMAIL PROTECTED]) Kent '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102 - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Steve answer to your shift hump
Thanks to everyone for the quick and informative answers on the shifter hump. Looks like I got the right one from the photo. I've had my Chevelle since 1987, but I've only been on the list server for a week. Thanks to everyone for making this such a beneficial site for getting answers. Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
