Re: [Chevelle-list] New Ford Plant

[Malibu]

  
  
Do You Know
  Where Your Car is Made?
  

  
Listed below are 75 American-made
automobiles. Each vehicle listed is built with union labor. But
regardless of how you may feel about the labor movement in
general, the fact remains that foreign automakers producing in
the U.S. predominantly assemble their automobiles in low-wage
states like Alabama and Kentucky, where American-owned
automakers (Ford and General Motors) predominantly produce in
high-wage union states like Michigan. 
 This author has nothing against any
state in our great country. We are all part of America and
deserve jobs just like anyone else. The point I am trying to
make is that this is one of many relatively unknown facts that
give foreign-owned automakers huge cost advantages over
American-owned automakers. Consider the following: 
 In 1997, the state of Alabama granted
huge subsidies to Mercedes in exchange for a plant that would
employ 1,500 people. What were the details of this huge
incentive package? $300 million in tax breaks, $253 million in
direct incentives, $60 million in Alabama taxpayer money to send
fellow Alabamans to Germany for training, and a promise to buy
2,500 of the new Mercedes SUV’s at $30,000 each. Based on just
the initial $300 million grant alone, those 1,500 jobs will cost
Alabama taxpayers $200,000 per job. Apparently Alabama, not
Mercedes, will be paying those salaries for years to come. With
deals like these, it’s no wonder foreign automakers have stepped
up production in the U.S. We’ll even pay their workers’ salaries
for them! 
In 1987, Toyota constructed an auto plant
on part of the 1,500 acres of free land given to them in
Georgetown, Kentucky. The auto plant was built by a Japanese
steel company using Japanese steel. The U.S. government granted
a “special trade zone” so that Toyota could import auto parts
from Japan duty-free. Financing was handled by Mitsui Bank of
Japan. Total federal and state grants and incentives exceeded
$100 million. These subsidies, of course, were courtesy of your
tax dollars. 
Tennessee gave Nissan $11,000 per job for
their Smyrna plant built in 1980. South Carolina coughed up
$79,000 per job to convince Germany’s BMW to build their plant
in Spartanburg in 1992. Were you aware that our government was
using your money to create jobs? Or are these merely job
announcements where you and I foot the bill? Job announcements
do make for great rhetoric for state governors’ re-election
campaigns. How many years will it take a factory worker in
Alabama to pay back the $200,000+ in tax money that the
government gave away? A conservative answer would be “several.”
  
This is not to say that American
companies are not granted incentives to build plants here. The
most recent is $100 million in incentives for Cadillac to build
their next plant in Michigan. It is my opinion that we should
not be imitating the Third World by using public money to bid
for jobs. But when given the choice between foreign investment
(Toyota, Mercedes, Nissan) and American investment (General
Motors and Ford), American investment is much better for
America. 
The deal Alabama gave Mercedes makes the
deal Michigan gave GM seem rather frugal. The point here is that
these huge incentives that are offered to foreign companies are
rarely offered to our own companies here at home. Such
incentives allow foreign companies to save hundreds or even
thousands of dollars in costs per automobile. And American
companies acquire more of their parts from domestic sources, so
more jobs are created in the automotive parts industry in
America. 
America needs more American investment, not
  more foreign investment.
  Click this link and see how fair the Fair Trade Agreement is.
  http://overthehillcarpeople.com/why_we_should_buy_vehicles_from.htm

On 12/13/2010 10:15 PM, Bill Lessenberry wrote:
BMW's are made in Spartanburg, SC
  
  Nissan trucks in Canton, Mississippi
  
  VW's are built in Chattanooga, TN
  
  Honda's are built in Ohio, Alabama, and Indiana
  
  
  It's a global economy.  GM and Ford have plants all over the
  world, too.
  
  BillL
  
  
  
  At 07:19 PM 12/13/2010, you wrote:
  
  Toyota's are built in Georgetown Ky

Nissan's are built in Smyrna Tn

  
  

  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Malibu]

About 4 or 5 years ago I bought just the fuse block for my '66. If your 
still looking to buy the block
I'll go through my receipts and see who I bought it from. My wiring was 
excellent but the fuse holders were rusty.


On 11/3/2010 10:27 AM, Rick Schaefer wrote:
Before swapping the fuse block, I would take the 2 halves apart and 
see what is going on.I bet that you have corrosion between the 
contacts.   To disassemble the 2 halves,  there is a small bolt (7/16 
or so)  in the middle of the engine side of the firewall that needs to 
be removed.Unless it is broken/split, the block itself doesn't 
go bad,  the wiring & internal connections are what cause problems.


 Also, I think it will be difficult to find someone to sell ONLY the 
fuse block.   They will try to sell the entire harness.   Of course 
that would eliminate any defective wiring.


 I BELIEVE that an original replacement would be easier to deal with 
than an updated version.   The wiring color code will be uniform and 
all connections will be in the same location.What ever you do, 
when reassembling be sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the 
contacts and in the fuse block voids.   The grease will keep out 
moisture & dirt to prevent future problems.   Good luck with it.


On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:44 PM, Brad Waller > wrote:


I think the fuse block on my ’67 is going bad.

I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the
fuse the brakes sometimes don’t work.Then they do.Either way, the
turn signals always work.This implies the wiring after the fuse
block has to be pretty good and it is either the fuse block or the
dash wiring.

The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I
can play with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or
stop.

Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a
stock fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com )

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16

'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17




--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

[Chevelle-list] I need help on id #'s for my 468 big block

[Malibu]

I need help on id #'s for my 468 big block i tried mortec but i cannot 
find them

engine # 3999289
cyl head # 3873858
cyl head # 3919840


Try these sites.
http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-camaro-chevy-bb-head-codes.asp
http://www.ajgeneral.com/bbc_block_casting_numbers/

Re: [Chevelle-list] elcamino rubber

[Malibu]

Probably glued on???
  - Original Message - 
  From: harkema...@aol.com 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 2:55 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] elcamino rubber


  i bought a rubber for between the tailgate and the bed for the elcamino, mine 
was missing, it did not come with any clips or screws, does anyone know what 
type of fastners to use?

  Thanks!
  Harlan


  **
  An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323048x1201367271/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=JulyExcfooterNO62)
 

[Chevelle-list] Find auto parts for less

[Malibu]

A friend sent me this. I thought the list might like to check it out.






frugalmechanic.com

Find auto parts for less
After your home, your car is probably your most expensive purchase. And 
purchasing a car is just the beginning.

You'll have to fill it with gas regularly. It must be insured. And then there's 
the expense of maintaining it.

There's nothing I can do to help you with the price of gas. But I can help you 
save money on maintenance!

Today's Cool Site is Frugal Mechanic, which offers price comparisons. Unlike 
other shopping sites, Frugal Mechanic is dedicated to car parts.

To get started, select the make, model and year of your car. You'll be 
presented with a list of auto parts categories. There's also a box where you 
can search by part number.

After you find your part, you can see prices at numerous auto parts sites. If 
you decide to buy a part, just click through.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 72, Issue 1

[Malibu]

I don't know if your interested in skins. But if you are, Bob's Chevelle has 
them. http://www.bobschevelleparts.com/quarter-panels/ Also you can try calling 
Desert Auto Parts at 1-800-905-8024. They may be able to help you.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Don Holloway 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 2:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 72, Issue 1


  I need help. I am looking for 1965 El Camino left and right quarter panels. I 
believe 1964 are the same. Skins will work as long as they are full size. 
Fingers are crossed that someone will have the answer.

  From: chevelle-list-requ...@chevelles.net
  Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 72, Issue 1
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 12:00:01 -0600


Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to  chevelle-list@chevelles.net To 
subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit   
http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.netor, via email, 
send a message with subject or body 'help' to   
chevelle-list-requ...@chevelles.net You can reach the person managing the list 
at   chevelle-list-ow...@chevelles.net When replying, please edit your 
Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list 
digest..."

  --Forwarded Message Attachment--
  From: mamad1...@verizon.net
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 15:16:29 -0500
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 2 door wagon











  for sale 1965 chevell 2 door wagon call for more 
  info 309 364 3352



--
  Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail®. See how. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?

[Malibu]

Rick, this was from an engine site I found...

Chevy's specification for the rocker arm nuts are 1 turn down after zero lash 
is achieved. That's one complete turn after all ticking is gone. You must turn 
them slowly as the engine will run a little rough until the lifter bleeds down.

I would suggest turning all valves to zero lash, no ticking. Then turn all 
valves a ¼ turn and let it recover. Keep doing this until all are 1 turn or 
360°.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 10:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?


Thanx all.   I had to search all over town for the correct seals.   City of 
100K with how many chevy/gmc pickups and no one stocks the O-Ring seals.  Well 
almost no one.I did 1 cylinder just to get the hang of it & frankly it was 
pretty easy.I took a bit of time to get the hang of the  Lisle Valve Spring 
Tool but its really simple to use.   I had to spend time with Mom today but 
I'll finish in the AM.

  BTW - Speaking of valve adjustment:   Is 1/4 turn after slop is out of 
pushrod/rocker enough of a preload.  Hydraulic roller lifters.


  On Sun, May 10, 2009 at 10:37 AM, Dan Anderson  wrote:

  You are totally correct.  What was I thinking?  I guess I just zeroed 
in on "adjust valves". 


  --- On Sun, 5/10/09, Tom Rightler  wrote:

From: Tom Rightler 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 

Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 6:35 AM 



That may work if you already have them adjusted, but if you do it 
that way initially after having the rocker arms off, you might damaged the 
lifters or the camshaft. If the rockers are too tight, you risk wiping out cam 
lobes.

Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Anderson 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 10:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?


I like to adjust the valves with the motor warm and 
running.  Back each one off, one at a time, then tighten 1/4 turn past when 
they stop clattering.  An old valve cover with the top cut off comes in handy.  
They used to sell clips that attached to the rockers and plugged the push rods 
to keep the mess down.  You can do each side in about a minute that way.

--- On Fri, 5/8/09, Tom Rightler  
wrote:

  From: Tom Rightler 
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?
  To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 

  Date: Friday, May 8, 2009, 6:20 PM


  You don't need to bring each cylinder up.  The pressure 
from the hose is plenty to keep up.  Bring #1 up so it so it's on the firing 
position before you do anything and leave the engine rest there.  Makes it much 
easier to readjust the valves once you're done.  It's a pretty straightforward 
job.  Should take about an hour.  When you remove the rocker arms and have the 
tool in place, compress the spring, pull the keepers off, then release the 
spring.  Pull it off, pull old seal off, then slide the new seal on, reverse 
the procedure, and your done.  Just make sure you adjust the valves 
properlythere is a specific sequence.

  Tom Rightler
  MCC Newsletter Editor
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Schaefer 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:07 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Valve Seal Replacement ?


   I am going to attempt to replace the valve seals on 
my 350 this weekend.  I've never messed with heads at all, but am thinking it 
can't be too difficult. 

  I have an air hose adapter to keep the valves in 
place and bought a valve spring compressing  tool at Pate last weekend.

  I'll bring each cylinder to TDC, apply air, and use 
the tool to compress the spring and remove retainer & keepers.

  I am assuming that the seals just slide over the 
valves.

  Is there anything more to it than that?Any 
Gotchas?  Do I lubricate the seals before sliding over the valve stem?  Are 
the keepers easy to align when I reassemble?I googled Valve seal 
replacement & didn't find much to help.  Anyone know of a web site with 
pictures?
Thanx

-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino


   
 





  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box

[Malibu]

If you interested in going to a fast steering unit or tearing one down to 
rebuild this is a good site to visit.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

- Original Message - 
From: "GCP Tech" 

To: "chevelle-list: chevelles.net" 
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 11:57 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Manual Steering Box


I'll be replacing a manual steering box with a power box in a 1968 
Chevelle, it appears to bolt into the same location...is there anything I 
should watch out for?


The manual box has lubricant leaking from under the plate with the thrust 
adjuster thingy.  Should there be a gasket between the body and plate?


Looks like someone packed it full of (red) general purpose wheel bearing 
grease.  Is this the proper lubricant?




Granite City Performance
custom engineered competition components
http://www.granitecityperformance.com/

Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car

[Malibu]

I'm glad it helped you out. 
- Original Message - 
  From: rml...@comcast.net 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car


  Thank you all, I fixed the problem. I was able to determine that the problem 
was whithin the turn signal switch. So I bought a new one today, Hoping I was 
right. Well after putting the new one in, the problem was fixed. It cost me 
190.00 for a new turn signal switch, but considering I did'nt have to pay 
somebody else to fix it. I guess that was'nt to bad. I thank you all for all 
your help. Malibu, the link you sent me was to the tee. It described the 
problem and the cure perfectly. Thanks again to everybody for your help. Bob 
Lancaster
  - Original Message -
  From: "Malibu" <327mal...@gmail.com>
  To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
  Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 3:29:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car

   
  In 2001 Pontiac had a recall for this. Call a dealer and see if your car is 
covered. This was a problem in the Alero and the Malibu also. Or try calling 
Pontiac at 1-800-620-7668. They may or may not cover it. This was also a recall 
in 2003. If they don't cover it, this site tells you how to repair it. Hope it 
helps.
  http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Grand-Am-Turn-Signals

   


  


  


  
   

- Original Message - 
From: rml...@comcast.net 
To: BOBBY 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car


I bought my daughter a 05 Pontiac grand am. Recently the hazard light 
switch starting clicking as if the hazards or the turn signals were on. Except 
the clicking was in double time. I bought a new switch and it continued to do 
the same thing. All the lights are working so I know its not a bulb. Iam 
totally stumped. Does anyone else know of this problem. Iam sorry this  is not 
chevelle related, but it is a GM product and its  for my daughter. Thank you 
Bob Lancaster.

Re: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car

[Malibu]

In 2001 Pontiac had a recall for this. Call a dealer and see if your car is 
covered. This was a problem in the Alero and the Malibu also. Or try calling 
Pontiac at 1-800-620-7668. They may or may not cover it. This was also a recall 
in 2003. If they don't cover it, this site tells you how to repair it. Hope it 
helps.
http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Grand-Am-Turn-Signals




 


 


 
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: rml...@comcast.net 
  To: BOBBY 
  Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:17 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] My daughters car


  I bought my daughter a 05 Pontiac grand am. Recently the hazard light switch 
starting clicking as if the hazards or the turn signals were on. Except the 
clicking was in double time. I bought a new switch and it continued to do the 
same thing. All the lights are working so I know its not a bulb. Iam totally 
stumped. Does anyone else know of this problem. Iam sorry this  is not chevelle 
related, but it is a GM product and its  for my daughter. Thank you Bob 
Lancaster.

[Chevelle-list] Of old cars and diplomacy

[Malibu]

Interesting article about Cuba and their pre-1960 cars. I would love to go 
there and visit if just to look at the cars.
http://www.philly.com/inquirer/opinion/20090225_Of_old_cars_and_diplomacy.html

[Chevelle-list] Champion Speed Shop

[Malibu]

I found this video and thought it was interesting so I'm sending it to the list 
to see.


Video produced for the International Drag Racing Hall of Fame 2007, which 
inducted Jim McLennan. 
Brief history of the "Smiling Irishman" who drove the "worlds fastest Chevy," 
and his Champion Speed Shop. 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REWiSl6cIm4 

[Chevelle-list] White walls.

[Malibu]

Has anyone tried this stuff? I wonder if it will work on white letters?
White Wall Wipes
We know the routine all too well: Buy a new set of whitewall tires, and in a 
month's time, all four look like they've been immersed in pan of coffee - 
Yellowed. it takes a half-day's worth of scrubbing to bring the bright white 
back to tip-top shape. To help rectify the seasonal dilemma, Detail Pro now 
offers their new White Wall Wipes. 

The soft, premium wipes - designed specifically for daily maintenance of 
whitewall tires - are pre-moistened with a specially designed cleaning solution 
that removes brake dust and road grime at home, car shows or cruise-ins without 
the need for a hose and bucket. A single canister of Detail Pro's White Wall 
Wipes costs $5.99; two-pack, $11.98; box of six, $29.94; box of 12, $53.88. For 
more information or to order, call 301-627-3625, or visit their website at 
www.whitewallwipes.com. 
- By Matthew Litwin

Re: [Chevelle-list] radio knobs

[Malibu]

Try here.
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=0
Or here, they're a little cheaper.
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Category_Code=RADIOKNOBS
  - Original Message - 
  From: rml...@comcast.net 
  To: BOBBY 
  Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 7:49 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] radio knobs


  I have an original stereo /am fm radio in my 70ss and Iam looking for a set 
of knobs for it. I just got it working but it doesnt have any knobs. does 
anybody know where I can get a set. I need  2 inner and 2 outer. Thank you  Bob 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book

[Malibu]

A good book on rebuilding your small block is;
 
How to Rebuild the Small-Block Chevrolet: Stock and High-Performance Rebuilds...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: dansolo...@msn.com ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book


  Here's a couple more with *enjoyable* errors.  LOL

   

  Standard Catalog of Chevelle 1964-1987 by John Gunnell

  Chevelle SS 1964-1972, A Muscle Car Source Book by Jeffrey Steffes

   

  Dale


--

  From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dan Solomon
  Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:10 PM
  To: Chevelle List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book

   

  I agree that there are errors but still a good read. Actually finding the 
mistakes in text and photos has been quite enjoyable.


  Dan Solomon
  It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry.
  http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/


--

  From: "Tom Rightler" 
  Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 19:26:01 -0500
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book

  That book is only good for a paperweight unless you like reading incorrect 
information.  It is laced with errors.

   

  Tom Rightler
  MCC Newsletter Editor

- Original Message - 

From: Daniel Solomon 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 6:05 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book

 

One of my favorite books is Chevelle SS Restoration Guide by MBI 
Publications. ISBN Number 0-87938-569-3. Its a great reference guide filled 
with lots of good information about the Chevelle SS.
Cant help with the small block book. All mine are big blocks.

 
"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a 
hurry."
http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/






> Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:08:48 -0500
> From: t...@eagleshore.com
> To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Christmas Book
> 
> My daughter traditionally gets me a book for Christmas, and she is 
> looking for ideas for me this year. I'm still learning-as-I go with this 
> hobby, working on my '71 Malibu and '66 El Camino. I might get into 
> rebuilding the small block in the Malibu some day, and would like to 
> learn more about this.
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good book for either general Chevelle history, or 
> engine rebuild how-to?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Tom Tomlinson
> 




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.19/1855 - Release Date: 12/18/2008 
10:16 AM
<<321456.gif>>

Re: [Chevelle-list] 1940 Barn Dodge - What A Beauty

[Malibu]

I would also like a copy.
327mal...@gmail.com
Thanks
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eddie Bumgarner 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:58 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1940 Barn Dodge - What A Beauty


  I would like you to send me a copy, thanks Eddie.
   
  Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.





--
  From: Rich Pruett 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 5:35:40 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 1940 Barn Dodge - What A Beauty


  One of my friends sent me an e-mail with the story and pictures of this barn 
find. Really nice old car.

  If any one wants a copy, e-mail me off list and I will forward on.

  --
  Just think, if it weren't for marriage, men would go through life thinking 
they had no faults at all. 

  You can only be young once. But you can always be immature. 
  --- Dave Barry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again

[Malibu]

Outlook express
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Pell 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 9:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again


  I avoid Outlook like the plague.  I assume it still is, but at one time it 
was the #1 target for hackers/virus/worms, etc.

  I use good OLD Netscape Mail.  :-)   

--
  
  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6

  Chuck Speake wrote: 
I use Outlook.



Chuck Speake

1970 Chevelle Malibu

Glen Ellyn, IL.







From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Jim H. Thompson
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 8:16 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again



Just a quick survey. How many use Outlook?



I use outlook, gmail and HTML



From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 2:24 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again



Don't know if you know, but gmail can be downloaded to Outlook. And that's 
very convenient.

  - Original Message - 

  From: Daniel Jones 

  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 

  Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 6:48 PM

  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again



  Now back on list after being bounced off. Have a email with the dreaded 
@sbcglobal.net. After much discussion with AT&T it was decided I would have to 
have another email address to be on the list. So I went back to gmail. It isn't 
convenient but I did miss reading the mails from those on the list. Hopefully 
this will work.



  D.R. Jones

  Burleson, TX



  1972 Monte Carlo

  1972 El Camino 



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Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1849 - Release Date: 12/15/2008 
9:01 AM

  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again

[Malibu]

Don't know if you know, but gmail can be downloaded to Outlook. And that's very 
convenient.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Jones 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 6:48 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back On List Again


  Now back on list after being bounced off. Have a email with the dreaded 
@sbcglobal.net. After much discussion with AT&T it was decided I would have to 
have another email address to be on the list. So I went back to gmail. It isn't 
convenient but I did miss reading the mails from those on the list. Hopefully 
this will work.

  D.R. Jones
  Burleson, TX

  1972 Monte Carlo
  1972 El Camino 

[Chevelle-list] Radio help

[Malibu]

I've been looking for some time now to find a fader switch for my "66 Malibu. I 
haven't had much luck locating one. Does anyone have any lead or advice as to 
what would work? I had the original radio converted to AM/FM. Is the '65/'66 
Impala radio the same or similar. I want to be able to control the rear speaker.
Thanks for any help

[Chevelle-list] 1959 Chevy's

[Malibu]

 Someone posted a slew of 1959 model factory assembly line shots taken by Life 
photographers, here's the link to ALL the pics:

http://images.google.com/images?&hl=en&; ;saf...

Re: [Chevelle-list] Shut Doors

[Malibu]

Johann, Is this your Malibu? If it is, I'm impressed with how you had to 
improvise. Nice car! I ran across it on Chevy Talk.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3134416
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Shut Doors


Got to give you credit Johann. I wouldn't even consider trying to make new 
springs. I guess that why they say that necessity is the mother of 
invention.


Godspeed, Dan Solomon
"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a 
hurry."

http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/


--
From: "Johann Grobler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 5:16 PM
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Shut Doors

I had a similar problem on my 65 Malibu right hand drive. With latches 
not available locally (South Africa) you start to improvise. What I found 
is that the latch has three internal springs. Two of them were broken. 
This resulted in the push-pull method of opening and the softly push/bump 
closing.  Made up new springs and the door is fine! To use more force 
only aggrevates the problem. The latch is fairly simple to repair. Take 
your time! A rushed job is a botched job!


- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Shut Doors



That's interesting. Thanks.

Considering that I drove the car for four winters with no heat and  just 
got around to fixing that last year, the door problem has been  low on 
the priority list.



Quoting ROARKE PONCE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:



My father-in-law said to take the latch and handle out and slip   hoses 
(old brake hose, gas line, whatever has a small enough ID to   fit) 
over the ends of the levers.  If I remember correctly, you can   put 
hoses on both sides if needed or just one.  Depends on how much   slack 
you have to take up.  Buys you some time before replacing the   latch.


Hope this helps.

Roarke

[Chevelle-list] SEMA pix

[Malibu]

Thought I'd send this on in case anyone is interested in seeing the SEMA cars.



> In case you didn’t get to go to the SEMA show, don’t fret; this guy took a 
> picture of every damn car in it. I didn’t see even 1/10th of this stuff 
> (largely on purpose). 



 http://www.suede37.com/images/2008/SEMA/sema08.htm

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Mag

[Malibu]

The latest one is out. It has the 2008 Chevelleabration in it. I saw it at a 
Meijer's store Saturday. I only see the mag once or twice a year.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rich Pruett 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 2:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Mag


  Rick,

  If you think about it, give the list a shout when you see/hear of a new issue.

  I would appreciate it and I'm sure others on the list would as well.

  Thanks,

  Rich

  --
  Just think, if it weren't for marriage, men would go through life thinking 
they had no faults at all. 

  You can only be young once. But you can always be immature. 
  --- Dave Barry

-- Original message -- 
From: "Rick Schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

  Bob
   No subscription available.  It is only issued a few times a year ( 3 
or 4 I think).   The best place I've found to consistently find it is at one of 
the larger bookstores (Borders-Hastings-B&N).   I usually start looking for it 
when someone at Chevelle Tech or this list mentions that they have a new copy.


On Sat, Oct 18, 2008 at 12:40 PM, Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  Odd that Super Chevy wouldn't know anything about it, that's who's listed 
for editorial contributions, advertising, etc.   Overall publisher seems to be 
Source Interlink Media, LLC and due a lot of magazines.  I don't see anything 
about subscription information.



  Dale McIntosh 
  ChevelleCD.com 
  ChevelleStuff.com
  LS6 Registry 
  The perfect gift for any auto enthusiast: A gift certificate from The 
Tire Rack. 


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]
  Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 11:14 AM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Mag




  I could use some help with finding the "Chevelle" mag that I sometimes 
see on the stand.  Who puts it out and can I subscribe to it or does it come 
with another mag.  I wrote to Super Chevy and got a response from Hot Rod 
saying they didn't know anything about it.  I also wrote to CHP and still 
waiting for an answer.  Its hit or miss on the newstand.Thanks.  



  Bob
  A.C.E.S. #1164
  T.C. #375
  65 Malibu
  85 El Camino
  00 Monte Carlo
  04 Harley-Davidson






--

  BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD today!




-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino


<>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Am I Cool.........

[Malibu]

That is great. I replaced mine with an aftermarket one. It works very good but 
I wish I had rebuilt mine now. If for no other reason than to keep the car 
original. I made the decision after checking how much it would cost to rebuild 
mine and the cost of a few brackets that were missing. The aftermarket was half 
the price. Now I wish I had spent the money to rebuild it. Oh well, at least 
I'm cool in the hot summer. Hind sight is great.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 3:04 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Am I Cool.


  Or what :D.  Just had to brag on myself a bit.  May not be much to 
others, but I finally resurected the A/C system on my El Camino.   Its been 
inop for 3 or 4 years for a variety of reasons.  It was just never a priority 
to get it fixed.About a month ago I started on it by pulling the evaporator 
and condensor to clean them thoroughly.   While I was at it, I removed the 
heater box to reseal,  and try to get rid of an annoying rattle from it.
  Got it back together a week ago and its blowing cold air again.   
Output of the center vents is 42* less than ambient air.   I still need to put 
the gauges back on and adjust the charge - I intentionally left it a little 
short, butIT WORKS!Just in time for winter.

 The compressor (rebuilt) initially had a front seal leak, but after a 
day or 2 of driving it apparently fixed itself.  I cleaned up the oil on the 
inner fender & hood and its been dry since.   Not sure that understand how or 
why, but I'll take the result and hope that it doesn't return.

  And if you have complaints about the volume of air flow from your 
heater or A/C  check your underdash ducts.   Between the heater box & ducts 
there were numerous places where the air could leak.  I know I got most all of 
the leaks and air flow is so much better than before.

have a great Columbus Day weekend.
  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino



   

Re: [Chevelle-list] Wax?

[Malibu]

I like Mother's California Gold. Easy on, easy off and the shine lasts for 
some time.
- Original Message - 
From: "Daniel Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 3:33 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Wax?



I just got through using Meguire's NXT past wax and it was a major chore!
Maybe the can was old, but it sure wasn't that easy to put on! The shine 
was

OK and I may have to spend some time with a clay bar(GROAN) to get
everything back up to par.

Does anyone have opinion about what has worked best for them and what is
easy, but has a durable shine!

Dan Mascheck

Re: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem

[Malibu]

Johann, this is how you adjust a kickdown cable.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-65854.html
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johann Grobler 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 1:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem


  Hullo Malibu,
  Thank you for your response.
  When giving throttle from stand-still the car moves smoothly away and then 
shifts down suddenly before moving up again.  My knowledge of an autobox is 
nil.  Is there a way of checking the modulator?  The vacuum hose is connected.
- Original Message - 
From: Malibu 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem


I'm not sure what you mean. Does the trans shift at the slightest throttle. 
If so, it sounds like you may have bad modulator. If the modulator is bad the 
trans may think it's at speed and shift. If it shifts late, you may have a 
sticking governor. Make sure the vacuum hose is connected to the modulator
and intake.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johann Grobler 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 2:58 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem


  The trannie on my 65 Malibu is kicking down at the slightest throttle 
pressure.  How do I adjust it to be less sensitive?  My knowledge is restricted 
to four on the floor and clutch pedal!

  Johann

Re: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem

[Malibu]

I'm not sure what you mean. Does the trans shift at the slightest throttle. If 
so, it sounds like you may have bad modulator. If the modulator is bad the 
trans may think it's at speed and shift. If it shifts late, you may have a 
sticking governor. Make sure the vacuum hose is connected to the modulator
and intake.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johann Grobler 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 2:58 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] TH350 Kickdown problem


  The trannie on my 65 Malibu is kicking down at the slightest throttle 
pressure.  How do I adjust it to be less sensitive?  My knowledge is restricted 
to four on the floor and clutch pedal!

  Johann

Re: [Chevelle-list] No Mail

[Malibu]

  "Anyone talking or is it just slow? I got kicked off the other day and 
had to sign back up. Not sure why? " 
  Could be your sbcglobal address blocking the mail. Had to change mine for 
this reason. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: D.R. Jones 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 2:37 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Mail


Anyone talking or is it just slow? I got kicked off the other day and 
had to sign back up. Not sure why? Thought it might have something to do with 
this Vista and Windows Mail. My incoming emails were being captuared by Windows 
Mail and I didn't know it. Hopefully I have that fixed now. Please let me know.

D.R. 

[Chevelle-list] The Dream Cruise

[Malibu]

American muscle, right down to the Cragar mags, is what the Woodward Dream 
Cruise is about. If you didn't live American Graffiti, Woodward is your chance 
to time-warp 16 miles of it.
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=601708

Re: [Chevelle-list] sbcglobal.net

[Malibu]

I also was bounced. I could send mail to my self and receive mail from 
friends but nothing from the list. I could send to the list but not receive. 
Al explained it was SBC causing the problem. I would get one or two emails 
and then nothing. I called AT&T to complain but to no avail. They tried to 
tell me it was Yahoo's doing. I don't buy it. AT&T thinks the mail is spam 
and is blocking it. They black listed chevelle.net.  The consider it  a bulk 
(spam) mailer. If you are using sbcglobal.net and you don't have a problem 
yet, you will. I had to switch this account to Gmail to get the list mail. 
Everything is working fine so far. I only use Gmail for the chevelle list. I 
still use sbcglobal for all other mail. And if you download your mail to 
Outlook, Gmail can do that.
- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Lessenberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 4:13 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] sbcglobal.net


I got a message I was bounced from the list.  Al says that sbcglobal.net is 
automatically bouncing list mail from its servers.  Anyone else have this 
problem & did you get it resolved??  Thanks,

BillL

[Chevelle-list] Check Your Tires Before You Buy

[Malibu]

Anybody seen this video? A real eye opener.



  Watch this viedo from abc about tires

  http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

[Chevelle-list] Test

[Malibu]

Is it dead or just quite?

Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Cradle?

[Malibu]

I haven't been to many swap meets that I haven't seen one. They seem to be sold 
by the guys selling tools, floor jacks, engine stands, etc.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Pelle Andersson 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 5:34 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Engine Cradle?


  Hi!

  Does anyone of you guys have drawings for an engine cradle for Chevy big 
blocks?
  Like This one: 
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/enginestand.jpg
  I can get them from Summit I know, but the freight fee... huh!

  //Pelle

Re: [Chevelle-list] alternator charging

[Malibu]

I don't know if you solved your problem or not as I don't see any reply to the 
suggestions. 
This is from the Chevelle forums and deals with your over charging.
Check it out.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-156702.html

  - Original Message - 
  From: Peebles, Lorne (Services) 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 3:54 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] alternator charging


  Quick questions. I have 66 Malibu BB. While running at idle the battery is 
charging at approx 17Vdc. I have a Delco Remi with external regulator. I worry 
that this is too much and don't want to damage new battery

   

  . I also have a electrical short I just can't seem to find. With battery 
disconnected and the key out I find a resistance of around 20 Ohms, indicating 
a closed circuit or short.  I have pulled all of the fuses and taps but can't 
get the short isolated. 

  Any ideas or recommendations greatly appreciated as always.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Let's try again....

[Malibu]

For the vacuum advance, you may have a bad vacuum can. You can check this 
with a pump like the Matyvac.

http://www.toolsource.com/vacuum-pump-auto-tune-brake-bleeding-p-65755.html
These are great for one man brake bleeding also. At idle you won't have 
hardly any vacuum so the advance may not move much, if at all. But it should 
at higher rpm. Is the breaker plate stuck? It sat for several years.
As for the water leak, I would take it to a radiator shop and have them 
pressurize the system to try and find the leak. I think some auto stores 
will let you borrow one also. You could have a leak anywhere. Just because 
you see water at the bellhousing doesn't mean it's a freeze plug. Maybe the 
intake. Heater hose, water pump seal, head gasket. Any water in the oil?  In 
that environment, blowing from the fan, wind coming in at speed, vibration, 
it could be anywhere. Goode luck. Hope this helps you out.
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Hall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 9:43 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Let's try again



OK - let's try this again(second time to post my questions...)

I've recently gotten around to working on my '67 Chevelle after ignoring 
for

it several years (I know... bad bad bad)

I did a LOT of pre-start work on the motor to ensure I didn't cause any
damage - which seemed to pay off as it started right up the first time.
(changed oil, drained all the fuel, pre-lubed extensively etc etc)

The motor (built 350) is running pretty good except for two issues that 
I'd

like help with;

1. I 'think' the vacuum advance isn't working - when I put the timing 
light

on the engine, the timing doesn't change at all with or without the vacuum
advance connected... shouldn't it change? Would this cause 'popping' 
through

the exhaust at higher RPMs? (~4000rpm) - i.e. no advance for higher rpms?

and

2. At sustained higher rpm (say 3000rpm+) - there is coolant dripping from
the bellhousing - I'm assuming this means I've got a bad freeze plug on 
the

back of the motor - anyone else ever had this? It doesn't drip unless the
motor is running up - i.e. no drips at idle. I've verified there are no
leaks anywhere else on the motor.

Thanks everyone - I hope to have the rust-bucket running and driving good
enough for next year's Chevelle-a-bration.

How about some responses?

Mark

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...

[Malibu]

Screws are original. They look good in my opinion. As far as other options, you 
can do whatever you like. But if you need to remove the panel, screws are easy. 
Drill new holes as the old holes are probably worn out or too big. You can 
drill right thru the panel and door with a drill half the size of the screw.
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 1:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...


  Okay, I have those screws. I think I have two sets. They just screw through 
the door panel into the door??? Doesn't that look kind of tacky??? Do I have 
any other options???




  -Original Message-
  From: Malibu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 3:53 am
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...


  Screws hold the bottom. They have a washer attached to the screw. You should 
be able to buy them at any paint store. (auto) Mine came in a interior screw 
kit. I've even seen them in good hardware stores.
  This is what it looks like.
  http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/721~cup+washer+(raised)-details/
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 12:58 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...


Quick question. The door panels on my 66, are the little clips that go into 
the cones the only thing that hold the panel on? The molding holds the top, and 
the clips/cones hold the sides, the arm rest holds it in the middle, but I 
guess my real question is if anything holds it at the bottom? Just seems like 
it would flop around over time. The clips came with screws alsowhat are 
those for?


Thanks for your help

-Tim King- 


The Famous, the infamous, the lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar 
Now! 

--
  The Famous, the infamous, the lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar 
Now! 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...

[Malibu]

Screws hold the bottom. They have a washer attached to the screw. You should be 
able to buy them at any paint store. (auto) Mine came in a interior screw kit. 
I've even seen them in good hardware stores.
This is what it looks like.
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/721~cup+washer+(raised)-details/
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 12:58 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66/67 Door Panels...


  Quick question. The door panels on my 66, are the little clips that go into 
the cones the only thing that hold the panel on? The molding holds the top, and 
the clips/cones hold the sides, the arm rest holds it in the middle, but I 
guess my real question is if anything holds it at the bottom? Just seems like 
it would flop around over time. The clips came with screws alsowhat are 
those for?


  Thanks for your help

  -Tim King-

--
  The Famous, the infamous, the lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar 
Now! 

Re: [Chevelle-list] DISC BRAKE CONVERSION PART II + ignition ?

[Malibu]

 Sounds like it might be too much initial timing for the starter to turn over. 
Here is a very good article on setting the ignition. Hope this help you out. 
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/timing%20&%20vacuum%20advance/How%20to%20Set%20Timing.pdf
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim & Chris 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 6:45 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] DISC BRAKE CONVERSION PART II + ignition ?


  Thanks to all that replied. problem was  a bad connection that joined the 2 
piece brake line running to the rear that was drawing in air. now fixed. I also 
Installed an MSD 6AL ignition and   I have what may sound like a silly question 
( I'm gettin a little punchie) long hrs. in garage. Q. If  I spin the motor to 
10 Deg.BTDC that will be on the compression stroke for me to set the rotor to 
#1 cylinder ? I'm having a hard time getting to kick over. thanks again, Jimmy 
.C

Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelleengineer

[Malibu]

Try this site. They did some work for a friend and he was very happy.
http://www.dandmrestoration.com/
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim H. Thompson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 10:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelleengineer


  Does anybody know someone who restores stock gauges?

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale
  Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:16 AM
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] chevelleengineer

   

  Don't mean to hijack the thread

   

  For some reason, Mr. Aldrich's pages through the 
chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net path aren't showing up any longer.  The fuel 
gauge page is still at http://home.comcast.net/~chevelleengineer/fuelgage.htm.  
For those interested, his page on speedometers and transmission gears is still 
available at http://home.comcast.net/~chevelleengineer/speedo.htm.  The home 
(index.htm) page is missing and I don't know of other specialty pages Mr. 
Aldrich has.  

   

  Last I'd heard he was in ill health but that was over a year ago.  Does 
anyone have any updates on Mr. Aldrich or other individual page names (like 
speedo.htm and fuelgage.htm) he had on his site?

  Dale McIntosh 
  ChevelleCD.com 
  ChevelleStuff.com 


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]
  Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 8:14 AM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

   

  Hey Larry, try this site, was a BIG help for me  
http://chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net/chevelleengineer/fuelgage.htm 
Steve

[Chevelle-list] Muscle Cars

[Malibu]

I saw this in a Hemmings News letter. Thought I pass it on.


  
Muscle Cars
Z-L1 power returns

  Chevrolet has reissued a 430hp 427 to celebrate the big-block's 50th. 
  photo courtesy GM 
A few years back, GM Performance Parts rolled out a reissue of the ZL-1 
aluminum block, claiming that the original tooling used in 1969 to create the 
infamous alloy rat engine installed in just ’69 Camaros and two Corvettes had 
been updated and pressed back into service. Now, a complete engine assembly is 
being produced as part of the 50th anniversary of the Chevrolet big-block 
engine (we’re assuming GM is considering the 348 the first big-block). 

The Anniversary 427 is filled with a forged-steel crank, forged steel 
connecting rods and forged aluminum pistons that make 9.5:1 compression when 
paired with the 110cc combustion chambers in the aluminum oval-port GMPP heads, 
also featuring 2.19/1.88-inch valves. A hydraulic roller-tappet camshaft with 
.510/.540-inch lift controls the valves through 1.7:1 roller rocker arms and an 
870cfm four-barrel carb feeds the beast through an aluminum intake. 

According to GMPP promotional materials, the Anniversary 427 is tagged at 430hp 
to match the rating of the original, though it advises that this engine is 
“grossly underrated.” Only 427 copies will be produced and each will come with 
an individually numbered “Collector’s Kit” that contains a certificate of 
authenticity, three forged “Anniversary 427” emblems — one for each fender of 
the recipient vehicle and one to stash, a photo-etched, serialized underhood 
engine data plate, and an Anniversary 427 air cleaner decal. 

We haven’t seen pricing (GMPP is auctioning off number 001), but this is 
allegedly the last project the ZL-1 block tooling will be used for before being 
retired. For the rest of the story, go to www.gmperformanceparts.com 
- By Terry McGean 

1749750-150-0.jpg?rev=1
Description: Binary data
<>

[Chevelle-list] Joe America. O/T

[Malibu]

Very interesting message. Joe America on oil. This guy makes a lot of sense.


  Please take a few minutes and watch 



  This guy’s message is right on target.  If only he were a candidate. 
  At the end, Joe America provides an email address.
  Please send this on to your email distribution until every American 
has seen it. 


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPch2k63uj4  

   
   
   

 




  =






Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

[Malibu]

In the July 2007 issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines there is an article in the 
Tech. section called "Cool Running: Refreshing Your Cooling System". It's 
nothing that is new but does cover areas that a person might not think of or 
just forget to do.
And  it talks about a "High flow water pump". There is a difference.
They use a Charger cooling system but the same applies to all cooling systems.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dean Vandergriff 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 6:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"


  I'm coming into this one a little late, but are you boiling over or just 
seeing elevated temps on the gauge?   If you're not boiling over I wouldn't 
worry too much.My 454 with flex fan, & no shroud ran consistently at 180 
idling would jump up to 200 pretty quickly, but it never boiled over.If you 
check your gauge 15 minutes after you shut the car off you'll likely be scared 
by the temp that you see & that happens every time you shut it off.But 
again, if it's not puking coolant all over the ground don't sweat it too much.

   

  Just my .02, or is that .06 worth at today's rates  J

   

  Dean Vandergriff

   




--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Rightler
  Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 10:46 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

   

  A 160 thermostat won't fix anything.  It's overheating because the temp of 
the coolant is higher than that of the thermostat at all times menaing it's 
staying open and coolant is not staying in the radiator to cool down.  There is 
a such thing as running too cold.  Flex fans are junk...period.  They flow LESS 
air then the RPMs are in the mid range.  You should be running a 180-185 
thermostat in a 402 along with a 19" 7 blade clutch fan and the correct fan 
shroud.  GM engineered this for a reason...it works.  I have a stock cooling 
system on my 70 SS 454 and never have overheating problems with it.  Another 
thing that comes into play in this situation that alot of people don't realize 
is the size of the water pump pulley.  Does it have the correct one on it?  
Another water pump won't fix anything if the pulley is the problem.

   

  Tom Rightler
  MCC Newsletter Editor

- Original Message - 

From: Trooper 

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 9:01 AM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

 

Dropping the temp of your thermostat will not affect an overheating 
problem. 

  - Original Message - 

  From: Jim H. Thompson 

  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:53 PM

  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

   

  Test show that if you have the proper capacity radiator that copper vs 
aluminum is a break even.

  Go to a 160 thermostat, flush the block, make sure your hoses are not 
collapsing inside (do not take out that bottom spring). Test the pressure of 
your radiator cap that's important for your over flow system.  If you have a 
clutch fan replace with an aluminum flex fan. Make sure your fan blades come to 
the back lip of your shroud.  

   

  Jim

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tabius 
barrett
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 2:42 PM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

   

  Hello all...I have a 71 SS 402 and I am still fighting the summer time 
over-heat monster. I plan to order an aluminum radiator soon but I remember 
someone telling me that the so-called "high flow" water pumps are no better 
than a standard water pump. My overheating seems to really occur at idle (stop 
light, traffic, etc.). So here is the question: Has anyone really found a 
high-flow water pump for my car and if so, where can i get it and how much? 
Also, do you think the aluminum radiator will help?
   
  Thanks,
  tbDallas


--

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your kids.




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2:53 PM

Re: [Chevelle-list] To Wash or Not To Wash?

[Malibu]

I'll wash the car if it needs it. Detailer can only do so much. After I wash 
the car I take my air hose and blow out all the nooks and crannies where water 
will sit. Moldings, lights, door frames, etc. Then I'll let it sit in the sun 
for awhile.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Pell 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 6:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] To Wash or Not To Wash?


  I only use a hose and soap when the car is really filthy.  
  And if it is too dusty for a 'California' duster, then I use a wet wash mitt 
(no soap), and just wipe it down, and follow with a towel (soft cloth, and do 
sections at a time).This cuts way down on the water spots also.



--
  I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there 
isn't, Than live my
  life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal

Why does a slight tax increase cost you $200.00 and a substantial tax cut saves 
you $30.00?
  
  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6

  Tom Rightler wrote: 
I never voluntarily put water on any of the 3 finished restored cars :-)

Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Campbell 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 6:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] To Wash or Not To Wash?


  When I was driving my 66 every day I washed it at least twice a week if 
it needed it or not. But I live up a dirt road so it needed it. I did a 67 442 
Olds for a guy a few years back and since it left my shop he claims it hasn't 
seen water since. Myself even after I get my 66 done, it will see water and a 
wash mitt if I deem it nescessary. And when I stop showing it and start driving 
it, it will probably get washed a whole lot more due to the long overdue 
floggings it will recieve!!




  Josh Campbell
  66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
  66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
  87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right 
stuff)
  71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)


--
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now. 


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4/25/2008 2:31 PM



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Re: [Chevelle-list] A/C Question...

[Malibu]

Sorry, wrong link the first time. Try this one.
A/C Rebuild
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 1:32 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] A/C Question...


  Has anybody ever converted thier R12 to R134A?

  I have this 62 Cadillac that has A/C. I thought it might be neat if the A/C 
worked on it. I have to convert it over to 134A right? I'm assuming that there 
is zero refrigerant in the system right now. I've done a little research on it 
and it appears that besides vacuuming out any remaining R12, I need to change 
the compressor oil? The compressor spins freely, and smoothly. I have zero A/C 
experience. Do I need to change out anything else? 

  Thanks for your help!!!


--
  Get the MapQuest Toolbar, Maps, Traffic, Directions & More! 

Re: [Chevelle-list] A/C Question...

[Malibu]

I have had a couple of cars converted. Always done by my local Radiator 
Hospital. The easiest way I think. If you have the tools you can do it 
yourself. Check this site out.
A/C Coolant Conversion
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 1:32 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] A/C Question...


  Has anybody ever converted thier R12 to R134A?

  I have this 62 Cadillac that has A/C. I thought it might be neat if the A/C 
worked on it. I have to convert it over to 134A right? I'm assuming that there 
is zero refrigerant in the system right now. I've done a little research on it 
and it appears that besides vacuuming out any remaining R12, I need to change 
the compressor oil? The compressor spins freely, and smoothly. I have zero A/C 
experience. Do I need to change out anything else? 

  Thanks for your help!!!


--
  Get the MapQuest Toolbar, Maps, Traffic, Directions & More! 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 65 Steering Column

[Malibu]

Try Ididit. I'm pretty sure they will have what your looking for. 
http://www.ididitinc.com/
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 65 Steering Column


Thanks Guys.  Question 2:  I want to put a steering column in to the 
replace the original but I don't the ignition key in the column,and I have 
a 5 speed, but I want collapsible.  Who makes an after market one?

Larry

Eddie Bumgarner wrote:
The anser is no, it is not. 68-69  started making it collapsible. I 
think. Eddie B.

 _Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv._


- Original Message 
From: Larry Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 8, 2008 7:37:43 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 65 Steering Column

Does anyone know if the steering column in my 65 SS is collapsible? Like 
in crash...


Larry


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7:30 AM





You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster 
Total Access 
, 
No Cost.



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Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)

[Malibu]

Go to your news stand and pick up April's issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines. 
Page 84 has this swap. They are using a 2004R and the tell you why they chose 
it over a 700. It's a 2 part series showing the installation in a Camaro. Also 
a good story about a 1969 COPO Chevelle restoration found in Georgia.
Rich
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Speake 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 11:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)


  tb,

  Sorry I can't help you with anyone in the Dallas area as I'm in the Chicago 
area.

  If you are looking for increased mileage at least on the open road or 
expressways you might want to look into a cut out stall converter also.  I can 
not speak from experience yet, but one of my friends has the 700R4 with the cut 
out stall converter and it increased his mileage he has told me from 16-19 
miles per gallon to 26 miles per gallon on the open road.  I'll be going to 
Automation in the Wisconsin Dells this May and will be more able to vouch for 
his statement after the drive from the Chicago area as I just had the same 
combination put into my 70 Chevelle.

   

  Chuck Speake

  1970 Chevelle Malibu

  Glen Ellyn, Illinois

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   

   

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tabius barrett
  Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 8:19 PM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)

   

  I need some help on two fronts. First, does anyone have any suggestions on 
where in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area i should go to get an overdrive transmission 
purchased and installed. Should I go with the 700R4?
   
  Secondly, I ordered a new set of interior A/C vents and easily replaced the 
two center vents. However, how in the heck do I replace the two side vents?? Do 
I have to take the whole dashboard apart?
   
  Thanks in Advance,
  tb
  71 Chevelle SS 402


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Re: [Chevelle-list] A treasure trove

[Malibu]

The link was working last week. Don't know what happened to it. Maybe too many 
hits and it's down for awhile. This link works. I just tried it.
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/article/Muscle_Car_Stash_Auction
At the end of the story is a link to the original story from Old Cars. You get 
a pop up at this site, just click the close button.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 6:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A treasure trove


  Chuck
 I was not the original poster of that message.   I think your best bet 
would be to repost the question to the entire mailing list. rick 


  On Sat, Mar 15, 2008 at 4:28 PM, Chuck Speake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I tried the link several times and it did not work.  Below is the link as I 
received it from you, is it correct? 





Chuck Speake

    1970 Chevelle Malibu

Glen Ellyn, Illinois

[EMAIL PROTECTED]







From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:54 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] A treasure trove











Anybody need some parts? Remember the guy who bought 21 trailers full of GM 
parts? He's now selling.

Here is a link to the original story. When you get to the site, on the left 
is a choice of places to go on the site. Click on "PARTS STASH"

http://www.depereauto.com/





Muscle Cars
Major stash of muscle-era Chevrolet artifacts to cross the block


  A lifetime supply of muscle-era Chevy parts and a few cars will cross 
the block May 9-10.
 
  photo courtesy Bud Ward's Auction Company
 
On May 9-10, Bud Ward's Auction Company will be auctioning off a huge 
collection of Chevrolet muscle-era high-performance parts as well as five cars, 
including two 1970 LS-6 Chevelles and a 1972 Z/28. 

The parts stash, which had been stored along with 10 desirable Chevrolet 
cars in 21 sealed box-van trailers, reportedly includes multiple complete 
Chevrolet high-performance big-block engines, heads, transmissions, 
fuel-injection systems, intake and exhaust manifolds, wheels and more. The 
inventory is made up of a mix of used as well as NOS Chevrolet and Corvette 
parts. 

The collection was unearthed in De Pere, Wisconsin, when the 21 tractor 
trailers were purchased from the widow of Donald Schlag, the man who collected 
all of the coveted Chevrolet artifacts over the course of his lifetime and 
stashed them away with apparently no intention of using or selling them. Schlag 
is said to have "had a deep love of all things high-performance and Chevrolet 
which led him to collect parts while working for his father at a John Deere 
Dealership." 

Scott Milestone, the current owner, moved all parts and five cars from 
Wisconsin to Rockville, Maryland, and has since decided to offer this find to 
the public. The preview of rare parts will take place on May 7-8 in Rockville, 
and the auction will take place at High Point Farm in Clarksburg, Maryland. 

For more information about this auction, to register to bid, to receive a 
color catalog, or to consign a car, please call Bud Ward at 888-860-9664, or 
Michelle Blum at 877-252-2251. 
- By Mike McNessor




  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Brake Proportioning Valve

[Malibu]

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Hickman 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 5:06 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Brake Proportioning Valve


  What I really need is a schematic for a 5 port proportioning valve.


--
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[Chevelle-list] GM is re-creating ZL-1 Camaro's 'mystery motors'

[Malibu]

GM is re-creating ZL-1 Camaro's 'mystery motors' 

12:00 AM CST on Sunday, February 10, 2008


Did you miss your chance in the late '60s to buy one of those ZL-1 Camaros with 
the "mystery-motor" 427 aluminum V-8 in it? 

I was sacking groceries part-time at a Kroger on Northwest Highway, and the $28 
a week that the Man begrudged me limited me to extremely well-used iron. 

But if we had been able to scrape together $7,000 back then to buy one of the 
special order 1969 ZL-1 Camaros, we'd have a car today worth way more than $1 
million. 

This summer, General Motors will offer us another ZL-1 opportunity - minus the 
'69 Camaro. GM Performance Parts will offer 427 reproduction ZL-1 motors for 
about $21,000 each. GM calls the motors a "modern re-creation" of the ZL-1. 

The original ZL-1 was an all-aluminum, fire-breathing 427-cubic-inch V-8 
conceived in the late '60s as a road-racing engine. The ZL-1 was rated, 
laughably, at 430 horsepower, and probably cranked out 550 horses or more. 

Through sly dealer manipulation of order forms back then, 71 of the racing 
engines ended up in street cars - 69 Camaros and two Corvettes - and the legend 
was born. The ZL-1 was retired in the early '70s, relegated to automotive 
history and high-dollar auctions. Then, about 18 months ago, a GM employee 
found the tooling for the ZL-1 engine in a scrapyard and refurbished it. 

In the Anniversary ZL-1, the crate motor will have a cast-iron block but will 
still produce an "underrated" 430 horsepower and 450 pound-feet of torque, GM 
says. The motor will have 10-to-1 compression so it can operate on pump gas, 
but it will get aluminum oval-port heads, a forged steel crankshaft and rods 
and a dual-plane intake manifold. 

"Simply mentioning the term ZL-1 stirs the emotions of Chevy performance 
enthusiasts," said Lisa Reffett, marketing manager of GM Performance Parts. 

As you might guess, demand - even at 21 large per motor - is expected to be a 
tad bit higher than supply. The first Anniversary ZL-1 crate motor was 
auctioned at Barrett-Jackson last month for $55,000. 

"Production will begin in the summer and run through the end of the year," said 
GM spokesman Tom Henderson. "We're going to look for ways to get it online when 
it becomes available." 

Most of the engines will probably end up in vintage '69 Camaros, Mr. Henderson 
figures, creating quasi-ZL-1s that can actually be street-driven. 

"I think they will appeal to those of us in the baby boomer realm who dreamed 
of having one of these cars but didn't have two nickels to rub together in 
1969," he said. 

Visit www.gmperformance parts.com or call 1-800-577-6888.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor

[Malibu]

I didn't try the site out when I sent the link. I remembered I had it in my 
bookmarks and went to the site to see if it was still there and it was . I 
assumed it still worked. This morning I downloaded the program to try it out 
after reading it didn't work. It seems this is an old program that was written 
for  win95/98. I tried to run it and it says I'm missing VB40016dll. So try 
this program. It's the same program but newer.
http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/carb_cfm.htm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Solomon 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 2:24 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor


  This link doesn't seem to work. Looks like a handy utility though.

  Godspeed, Dan Solomon
  "It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a 
hurry."
  http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/





--
  > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  > Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:28:02 -0500
  > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor
  > 
  > Go here John, and scroll down to "size.exe".
  > http://www.chevelles.com/shop/programs.shtml
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: "Johnny" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
  > Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:29 AM
  > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor
  > 
  > 
  > >I found a deal on an new carb for my small block..Its a Edelbrock #1407 
  > >750cfmThe engine is a 327 bored .030 over with 2.02 camel heads...a 
230 
  > >duration .480 lift cam..headers...Is a 750 cfm too big of a carb???It 
  > >won't be such a good deal if I can't use it..
  > > John
  > > 66 Malibu
  > > 327 4 speed.
  > > 
  > 
  > 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor

[Malibu]

If I'm not mistaken. The spam blocker will only block it if "size" is in the 
subject line. Spam blockers can't read your mail only the subject.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Sullivan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor


I'm surprised I got this one.  I am blocking all emails with "size" in the 
text.




- Original Message - 
From: "Malibu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor



Go here John, and scroll down to "size.exe".
http://www.chevelles.com/shop/programs.shtml

Re: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor

[Malibu]

Go here John, and scroll down to "size.exe".
http://www.chevelles.com/shop/programs.shtml
- Original Message - 
From: "Johnny" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Carburetor


I found a deal on an new carb for my small block..Its a Edelbrock #1407 
750cfmThe engine is a 327 bored .030 over with 2.02 camel heads...a 230 
duration .480 lift cam..headers...Is a 750 cfm too big of a carb???It 
won't be such a good deal if I can't use it..

John
66 Malibu
327 4 speed.

[Chevelle-list] Chevelle ad

[Malibu]

Anyone remember these commercials from the days of Drive In Movies? I do.



Watch this crazy commercial and notice the cove on the 1966 SS-396 Chevelle




  YouTube  Broadcast YourselfT

 
watch video
Video Description
chevrolet intermission movie for the 66 chevelle, features secret agent 
and dr. no



   Using YouTube 

  Copyright © 2007 YouTube, Inc.

[Chevelle-list] 'bout a quarter mile long O/T

[Malibu]

 
Some good drag racing from Jimmy Biggs.



http://www.jimmybiggstv.com/yourway/fdr/gary/2007/bestof6/bestof6.wmv 

Re: [Chevelle-list] knee knocker tacs

[Malibu]

The '65 was an in dash tach. The '66 is the knee knocker. It's chrome and 
mounts below the dash. The '67 mounts below the overhang on the dash and has 
the left turn signal in it.
  - Original Message - 
  From: ronnie, a.k.a. rocko 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 9:44 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] knee knocker tacs


  Hello,  just  got  off  of  ebay  and  a  seller  had  listed  a  knee  
knocker  tac,  a  nice  item  indeed,  this  one  has  the  chrome  finish,  it 
 is  listed  for  a  65  66  and  67,  it  looks  to  be  out  of  a  66  to  
me,  my  understanding  is  the  67  had  a  black  plastic  finish,  the  66  
was  chrome  and  a  little  cooler  looking,  and  as  far  as  a  65  really  
dont  know  what  that  year  came  with,  any  insight  from  you  guys  would 
 be  helpful,  thanks,  ronnie


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[Chevelle-list] Alternator rebuilding

[Malibu]

I found this site. For any one wanting to rebuild their alternator or increase 
to high output / upgrade parts, this site has it. Thought I'd pass it on.
http://www.alternatorparts.com/

Re: [Chevelle-list] blower motor FIXED

[Malibu]

Great. Those pesky off/on switches always seem to cause problems. Glad you 
got it. Try hooking up the hi speed wire. You may need it in those NY 
winters.
- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] blower motor FIXED


I now have heat. What a concept. I can even clear a fogged windshield 
without a rag. Blower is working too, except on the highest speed, but 
that's not hooked up and that's enough for today.


I forgot that w/ the fan switch all the way up the fan is OFF and  speeds 
get higher as you move it down. This explains why my tests of  the highest 
speed didn't work. I actually had it turned off.


I'm assuming that from this point getting the high speed to work will  be 
relatively easy, but I definitely have nice hot air blowing in at  three 
different speeds.


It was a lot of trouble, but I'm sure I'll be enjoying it over the  next 
several months.


Thanks for the tips everybody.

John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] blower motor wiring cont'd

[Malibu]

The master switch and the compressor switch is on your heat box inside the 
car and is controlled by your levers.
Your diagram is hard to read (blurry). Can you scan a better one? This is 
what I would do if It were me doing it. Be sure the fuse in the fuse block 
is good. Install a 30 amp fuse in the line coming from the horn relay. It's 
true that this supplies a full 12v to the heater but it may feed the purple 
wire to your motor also. Hard to tell from your drawing. Put the plugs back 
on the relay and the resistor. Take a volt meter or a rigged up 12v bulb or 
test light and with the ignition in the on position see if the purple or the 
orange has power. If you have a volt meter or a test light you can also 
probe the sockets that plug onto the resistor or relay. At least this will 
tell you if any wire has power. Let me know. If that fails I'll go to see my 
buddy tomorrow and look at his '69 again. I'm doing this from memory when we 
put his together.
- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:35 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] blower motor wiring cont'd


The fan works when hooked directly to electrical power but the purple 
lead is dead all the time.


I'm trying to figure out where the power is supposed to be coming  from. 
I'm not great at reading wiring diagrams, but it looks like  there is a 
14ga brown wire coming from the fuse box to the "master  switch" (whatever 
that is) and a 14T (tan?) wire going from that  switch to the blower 
switch.


This is the diagram I am using:

http://johnnasta.com/69-AC-wiring001.jpg

Can anyone confirm where I am supposed to be tracing power from?

Thanks,
John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] electrical question

[Malibu]

Maybe it was changed at some point. The wire from the relay is 10 ga. The 
other fuse end is 12 ga. Good luck.
- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] electrical question


Thanks. That helps a lot because for all I know the blower motor that
is in there might work, which would mean that all I really need to
replace is the heater core. I'll see what it takes to get that purple
wire back where it belongs and test the other one like you said.

BTW, in mine the long wire w/ the female fuse holder on it is black
and the short one w/ the male end on it is orange.


Quoting Malibu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


John, I'll attempt to answer your wiring problem.
The fuse holder is hot from the horn relay,(should be red)
it takes a 30 amp fuse. The male end should be blk/or. this should be
connected to a 3 pronged plug for your a/c relay. The purple wire
should come off this 3 pronged plug and connect to the male plug on the
blower motor. The relay plug should also have a dark blue wire that
goes to another 3 prong plug for your resistor. The resistor is
connected to your switch in the car and it controls the speed of the
blower motor. They all have to be connected for the blower to work. You
can check your blower by running a wire from the bat to the male plug
and see if it runs. The motor has to be grounded so be sure you have a
ground from the screw that holds the motor in place to the body. Hope
this helps you out.

Re: [Chevelle-list] electrical question

[Malibu]

John, I'll attempt to answer your wiring problem.
The fuse holder is hot from the horn relay,(should be red)
it takes a 30 amp fuse. The male end should be blk/or. this should be 
connected to a 3 pronged plug for your a/c relay. The purple wire should 
come off this 3 pronged plug and connect to the male plug on the blower 
motor. The relay plug should also have a dark blue wire that goes to another 
3 prong plug for your resistor. The resistor is connected to your switch in 
the car and it controls the speed of the blower motor. They all have to be 
connected for the blower to work. You can check your blower by running a 
wire from the bat to the male plug and see if it runs. The motor has to be 
grounded so be sure you have a ground from the screw that holds the motor in 
place to the body. Hope this helps you out.
- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 3:49 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] electrical question


While I'm mucking around under the hood...

Normally there is a hot lead going from either the battery or the horn
relay or something w/ a female fuse holder on it, going to a male fuse
holder plugged into a relay on the heat/AC box inside the engine
compartment.

This has never been hooked up since I have had my '69, but what is it
supposed to do?

There is also a purple wire that goes from the far right side of the
heat/AC box to the area of this same relay on the left side of the
box, and that is just hanging there not hooked up.

The reason I ask is b/c if either of these wires have anything to do
w/ the blower motor I should get it/them hooked up again. If they are
something to do strictly w/ the A/C, mine doesn't work anyway. The
male fuse holder is missing for some reason, but the wire is there.
How many amps is the fuse in there supposed to be? The purple wire has
a female spade connector on it but at quick glance I did not see what
it's supposed to hook up to.

Thanks,
John Nasta

[Chevelle-list] A new El Camino?????

[Malibu]

In today's paper. I think it's pretty good looking. A link is at the bottom of 
the page.


 
  


 


  MARK PHELAN

  G8 models to broaden appeal
  Pontiac sedan will be offered as a station wagon and sport truck
  November 20, 2007

  BY MARK PHELAN FREE PRESS AUTO WRITER


  Pontiac wants to add variants of the eagerly awaited G8 rear-wheel-drive 
sport sedan to broaden the model's appeal.

  A station wagon and sport-truck variation are among the possibilities for 
the Australian-built car that is to go on sale next spring.


Advertisement
   
  "It's very likely we're going to get more variants" of the G8, a General 
Motors Corp. source said, speaking on condition of anonymity because the 
automaker is still considering which G8 models to offer. The sleek sedan will 
become the flagship for Pontiac's return to its performance heritage when it 
replaces the Grand Prix sedan in 2008. 
  GM's Holden Australian unit builds the wagon and pickup models as part of 
its best-selling Commodore VE family of vehicles. The G8 is a mildly revised 
version of the Commodore VE sedan. Its sporty looks are reminiscent of a BMW 
5-series, and it is the first production model from GM's global Zeta family of 
rear-wheel drive cars, which also will produce the Chevrolet Camaro and a 
number of other models GM's North American plants will build for several of the 
automaker's brands.

  "It's optimistic to think that all the body styles Holden builds could 
come here," the source said.

  The weak U.S. dollar makes importing the wagon and pickup a dicey 
proposition, and GM isn't sure how much demand there would be for either of the 
cars. GM has not said how many G8s it expects to sell annually, but it is 
likely that even the sedan will be a low-volume model unless GM decides to 
build it in North America, which is unlikely to happen before 2010 or 2011.

  Pontiac will offer 261-horsepower V6 and 362-horsepower V8 versions of 
the G8, priced at $26,910 and $29,310, respectively. The brand also is 
considering a high-performance GXP.

  "Having a G8 family consisting of several models is probably a wise 
decision" as Pontiac tries to establish the G8 in consumers' minds, the source 
said. "There's been some discussion of the sport wagon and the pickup."

  GM considered making the pickup part of its all-truck GMC brand, but "it 
makes more sense as a Pontiac because of the G8 name and its looks," the source 
said.

  The Australian sport pickup recalls the Chevrolet El Camino sport truck 
from 1959 through 1987, but there has not been any discussion of bringing it in 
as a Chevrolet.

  "It would cost too much to establish a new name and or unique looks for a 
Chevrolet model," the source said.



  See it here: 
http://www.auto-power-girl.com/cars-2007/holden-specifications/holden_ute_svz-1927
 
<><>

Re: [Chevelle-list] speaking of starters

[Malibu]

John had said "I'm not sure what the advantage(s) of the 30A relay setup 
is/are." This site will help explain it and show you how to install one. 
It's a VW bus they're talking about but it will work on a Chevy starter.


http://www.type2.com/bartnik/relay.htm
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] speaking of starters



I haven't seen a M.A.D. diagram but the photo on their site of the ST-1
"START'M UP" kit shows the metal jumper just like the one from Summit.
http://www.madelectrical.com/images/st-1.s4.jpg.  I'd also bet the metal
jumper probably comes from one supplier and that Summit's kit and M.A.D.'s
kit use the same jumper.

I'd surmise that M.A.D. probably discovered the metal jumper worked better
(or easier) than a wire jumper but maybe didn't change the instructions on
paper - and I still can't find an instruction sheet on their site for the
ST-1 kit.

Dale


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:29 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] speaking of starters

I see now that it's the MAD diagram that specifies 12 gauge wire
between BAT & S, but Summit's kit is shown w/ the bracket.

>
I am going to try to do this w/ the 12 gauge wire. Hopefully today.


Quoting Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/ford_solenoid.htm has diagrams for

wiring

the Summit/M.A.D. way along with a photo showing Summit's kit (item
#SUM-G1750).  If you go to the Summit site and search for SUM-G1750,

you'll

find it.  There's also a diagram for using a standard 30A relay if you

don't

like the solenoid idea.



Dale McIntosh

  ChevelleCD.com

ChevelleStuff.com 

 



  _

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:36 AM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] speaking of starters



Awhile back it was said to add a relay to the ignition switch,(for a mini
starter clicking problem) does anyone have a wire diagram for this mod??

and

will any relay work?

thanks
Harlan


http://hometown.aol.com/harkem123/HarlanKemperAssociatesindex.html


**
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Re: [Chevelle-list] A Great Group

[Malibu]

It was a '66. The site is no longer up. I know it sure came in handy when I did 
my '66. Sorry

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 3:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A Great Group


Steve, Welcome.  Yea this is a pretty good group.   Very  little bickering 
and only the occasional troll trying to sell something.

  Can't help with your particular web page, but there are a few here that may 
be of interest:  http://www.chevelles.net/links/Garage/And sorry bout the 
dead links .   

   
  On 10/27/07, SteveZL1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Hi to all group members. I've been basically watching from the sidelines. 
But I just have to say how I admire the camaraderie of this group. Most members 
act like real friends... 
someone you can turn to with a problem.

When I was younger I worked at a Pontiac dealership. (keep hanging around 
until they offered me a job) Ended up staying 6+ years. Started out washing 
cars then worked up towards helping out at the Service Tower checking in 
customers cars, handing out work to the mechanics, etc. 
(eventually bumped heads with the owner's son - we know who won that fight)

Then I got a job at the local Oldsmobile parts department until it finally 
closed down. Never could get a job with the Chevy dealerships. I'm 100% G.M. 
all the way. 

Took a break from the car scene for a while.
(I remember it took my hands about two weeks to heal - busted knuckles, 
wear & tear, etc.) 

I got to the point where I just couldn't deal with some of people 
(customers) anymore. The worst were the wealthy ones. The average guy was the 
best. I'd even let several behind the counter & we'd look either on line or in 
person for the exact part they needed) Sorry if this post is a bit long winded. 

I just want to say what a great bunch of fellows this group has. That I 
have a place to turn if I need the help. By next fall or so I'll be looking for 
a !966 - 1967 Chevelle. (never been too big a fan of the 68 -69; can't afford a 
1970) My health forces me to look for a turn key type (or one that doesn't need 
much work) Somewhere in the 15K range - if the prices don't head towards outer 
space. A street driver. 

Lastly, does anyone remember a post from about a year or so ago that 
included an attachment (or private website) where the owner did his own resto? 
(I hope it was this group; I'm in a couple) I remember the car being a '67 
(maybe 66). The car was painted brown. He had smoothed the firewall, etc. I 
think is was switched over from an automatic to four speed. It had several 
photos of the work in progress. If I can find that site it would really get my 
enthusiasm going again. Any ideas who's it was? Keep up the great work guys! 
Thanks ahead of time for any help. 
SteveZL1
 
 




  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

[Chevelle-list] Jay leno's Garage

[Malibu]

Nice site. I envy him. All it takes is a few bucks I guess.



  http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/ <>

Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

[Malibu]

Dan, take a look at this site for some help. You may have to get the gage 
they sell to properly set up the booster pin to M/C piston depth. Or, if you 
have a depth gage, you can set it up that way. CPP has a whole page of brake 
help. The gage below is from their site.


http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm#pedal


Check Booster Pushrod Adjustment
 The pushrod that actuates the master cylinder must be properly adjusted. 
Ideally there should be only slight clearance between the booster pushrod 
and the master cylinder pushrod. Interference will preload the master 
cylinder. When the system is preloaded, it builds pressure each time the 
pedal is pressed. Since the master cylinder is not allowed to fully release 
the pressure from the previous stroke, the system will eventually lock the 
wheels. Too much clearance will cause excessive freeplay in the pedal. In 
almost every case, if you bought your booster and master cylinder from us, 
we pre-adjust the booster pushrod and master cylinder for you so this is not 
a problem.


 To make 100% certain of a properly adjusted booster pushrod for your 
master, we offer a master cylinder depth gauge (PN: CP2003) to determine 
correct pushrod length. The following illustration demonstrates the proper 
usage of this tool. First measure the length that the booster pushrod 
extends past the face of the booster with the "head" of the pin. on the 
tool. Then measure the depth of the master cylinder piston with the other 
end of the pin on the tool. If the pin hits or there is too much space on 
step two, then adjustment is necessary.




- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Chevelle List" 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking



Mike,

Pulled it all apart tonight and I suspect the booster and the master 
cylinder were not a match. I have a deep hole M/C which according to 
Master Power is for manual applications. The rod is sticking out the same 
amount from the booster but the actuation rod will not come out of the 
booster. Possibly pushed too far? I am going to put the original shaft in, 
drop the booster and see what happens. Will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for the help.

Thanks,
Dan Solomon


-Original Message-
From: "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 16:55:05
To:"The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


Dan, The rods are approx. 1" different in length. If you have a short rod, 
less than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. 
The only problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch 
and the booster the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure 
you fully stroke the M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted 
does not get fully stroked and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it 
mounted. Get the little kit at Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded 
nipples and clear tubes. That way you can see the air is gone.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Daniel

 Solomon 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking



Mike,

How will I know if the rod and the M/C match?
I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was 
installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what.


Thanks, Dan
- Original Message - 
From: Mike

   Holleman 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long 
push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your 
M/C is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench 
bleed the M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should 
be two different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the 
clevis to attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for 
power.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Daniel

 Solomon 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking



I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power 
brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding 
the power assist.
Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in 
the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.


Thanks, Dan
- Original Message - 
From: Brad Waller 

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing
   List' 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Po

[Chevelle-list] In cylinder video

[Malibu]

Video of a cylinder firing. This is pretty neat.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5815350492893860613&hl=en

Re: [Chevelle-list] Off topic, Camaro.

[Malibu]

Dennis, take a look at this page from Nastyz28. This is a good site for 2nd 
generation Camaro's.
http://nastyz28.com/2gcog/bbswap.html

This is the home page. Should you buy the car, you may want to join.
http://www.nastyz28.com/

  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 11:32 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Off topic, Camaro.


  I've about got my 68 Chevelle SS done, So I'm looking for something else to 
take up my time. I'm looking at a 1970 camaro, It has a small block 350 in it. 
I'm not sure of the price yet, Somewhere between $7000.000 - $9000.00  The car 
is in pretty good shape. The Question is, I have a 454 that I would like to put 
in it if I get it.  Will this engine drop in using the same motor mounts? And 
what other mods will I have to do? Even If the price is $9000.00 is that an OK 
deal for a good 1970 Camaro? I know that would be a steel on a SS Chevelle, But 
I don't know much about Camaros, Other than the 69 Z. Thanks for any info ahead 
of timeDennis

Re: [Chevelle-list] Decoding the engine

[Malibu]

 Hope this helps you. The block # you have is wrong. This info is from MORTEC 
and  nastyz28.

  BLOCK CASTING NUMBER
The block casting number on smallblock and big block Chevy V-8 motors is 
located on a ledge found at the rear of the block, most often on the driver's 
side. This ledge is below the deck of the block and the ledge forms the mating 
surface between the block and the transmission bellhousing. Some of the later 
model blocks have the casting number on the passenger side of this ledge. The 
number itself can have 6, 7 or 8 numeral digits. They might look like this 
"361959" or "3970010" or "14015445". The block casting numbers do not have any 
letters in them. There are sometimes individual letters found on blocks like 
"GM" or "CFD" for the Central Foundry Division, but they are not part of the 
block casting number. Also some of the later blocks have the size of the motor 
shown in liters. You may see a "5.0" (305) or "5.7" (350) cast on the rear 
ledge of a smallblock or a "7.4" on the side of a big block 454. On the side of 
some later blocks the last three digits of the block casting number are cast 
into the block, but these are difficult to see when the engine is in a vehicle. 

http://www.mortec.com/location.htm
Engine Code Stamping Numbers 
All engines are stamped with an engine ID code, consisting of assembly plant 
code, production date and suffix code. V8 codes are stamped on a pad just 
forward of the right side (passenger) cylinder head. 6 cylinder engines are 
stamped on the passenger side of the block behind the distributor. 
Click here for Chevy Engine Code Listings 

The engine date must precede the car build date, otherwise something is amiss. 
Some engine machining operations (decking) will obliterate the engine ID. 

Engine ID Code Example: V0101CLJ - (V = Plant, 01 = Month, 01 = Day, CLJ = 
Engine Suffix Code)
Another example: T0830CTY - (T = Tonawanda, 08 = August, 30 = 30th day, CTY = 
1970 396 Camaro, 375 hp, 11.0:1, TH400) 

  Code Engine Plant  Code Engine Plant 
  F Flint (Motor)  S Saginaw Service 
  H Hydramatic  T Tonawanda 
  K St. Catherines, Ontario  V Flint (Engine) 
 (McKinnon Industries Canada) 
  M GM of Mexico 











  From: William Piper 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:58 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Decoding the engine


  All,

   

  Members of the Chevelle list, I purchased a Chevy this week and would like a 
little help decoding the engine. The gentlemen I bought the car from said he 
didn't have any idea.  I'm not sure I got the numbers right and will double 
check them tomorrow in the daylight and a little more scrubbing on the block.  
Front engine boss has two sets of numbers VO507UFO and T6F526006 (I'm guessing 
this number is part of the VIN). The casting number retrieved from the back of 
the block on the pass side is N088551. This number doesn't seem to match 
anything I have in my data base but it appears to be the only cast number on 
the back of the block.  

   

  Thanks for your help on this as I need to determine what I have before I can 
determine what to do with it.  Tom 

[Chevelle-list] What oil to use.

[Malibu]

I  just ran across this article and found it interesting. Thought I'd pass it 
on. It's a little long but worth the read.





OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!
By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.


About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in 
the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure 
(EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was 
based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the 
effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute 
amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.

A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally 
failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I 
immediately contacted the camshaft regrinder and asked how this could happen. 
They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many 
failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft 
assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create 
this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated 
the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures.

This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then 
the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) 
approved oils that are killing our engines.

Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance 
(Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during 
break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unreasonably short 
period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet 
engines.

Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars 
(Redline). Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still use 
the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They continued to tell 
me they are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and 
comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy 
flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds 
stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true 
for our cars. To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of 
performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the 
problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the 
representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine 
builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very 
early destruction of cams and followers”. They are recommending that, for now 
at least, there must be a proper oil additive put
in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide 
assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives 
are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. 
Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually 
available at auto stores and gas stations.
This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin 
#TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their 
engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.

OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!

Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and 
component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor 
bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware of this problem because 
many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn’t rotate and are 
having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for 
the British Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been finding. 
Comp Cams put out “#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both 
an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was 
“While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in 
benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper 
break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing 
some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to 
remove from the off the–shelf oil”.

Next question: Now what do we do?

>From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) “Use oils rated for diesel use”, Delo 
>(Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality 
>petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc 
>dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with.

>From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): “use our additive” for at least the 
>first 500 miles.

>From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, 
>it’s only about $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This problem 
>seems to be s

Re: [Chevelle-list] Radio Upgrade

[Malibu]

This is the kit I had installed in my '66. Not cheap, but if you want to keep 
the original look I think this is the way to go. The only difference to the 
radio that's visible is the LED light to tell if I'm on AM or FM. 

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:10 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Radio Upgrade


  This question has been answered before, but I didn't think I would ever need 
to use it. Can anyone tell me of someone the can upgrade old radios to AM-FM . 
My brother is building a 40 Chevy Street Rod and wants to use the old radio but 
have it made into AM-FM.  He is in Ft. Worth and a place close would be great, 
if not any place would help. Thanks

  Darrell
  65 SS 327 4 speed
  41 Chevrolet Coupe LT-1 (in progress)





--
  Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com.

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66

[Malibu]

#1, not sure what your talking about. More info.
#2. Your drive shaft will work that you have IF the 350 is the short tail. If 
it's the long shaft you will need to get it cut down and rebalanced.
  - Original Message - 
  From: jimmy brown 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 2:44 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66


  I have two ?. for a 66
  1. on the front windshield  cannel i know it is rivited in, but is it also 
supposed to be welded
  2. the car was 283/pg and now is 350/350, is there a drive shaft available or 
do i have to have one made 


--
  Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car 
Finder tool. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for a part TH350 trans

[Malibu]

Harlan, what you are describing is called a "detent lever". Sometimes referred 
to as a rooster tail. It is secured to the manual shaft and it's function is to 
select the gear you want. It also has a rod connected to it to engage the 
parking pawl. I'm pretty sure you won't find a new one. It's a part that never 
wears out. If your missing one I would suggest you try a trans shop for a used 
one. You may get lucky and find a new one. But if it were me, I would just go 
to a junk yard and remove one from a junk trans. Take the manual shaft and 
detent as one piece. Believe it or not, that's a hardened finishing nail 
holding it in place.
Rich
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 5:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for a part TH350 trans


  In a message dated 8/1/2007 1:43:54 AM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



Are we talking about the parking pawel?




  possibly not sure what its called??


  **
  Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour 

Re: [Chevelle-list] License Plate Sticker Removal

[Malibu]

Buy a can of "GOOF OFF". It's the size of a can of lighter fluid. You should be 
able to find it in the hardware or where they sell paint. It's what I use. It's 
safe and fast.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis McGillis 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 6:33 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] License Plate Sticker Removal


  Hi Guys,
  My original 1965 CA black plate has many (at least 9) layers of license plate 
stickers.  Has anyone had good results when removing them?  My 2008 sticker 
just came in the mail and I'd like to remove the underlying several before 
applying so it looks better.  Using my heat gun followed by some WD4-40 sounds 
quick and easy, does it work?
  Thanks,
  Dennis McGillis
  1965 Malibu SS-350

Re: [Chevelle-list] heater control cable clips

[Malibu]

Have you tried a radiator shop that works on A/C units. The place that made up 
my A/C hoses gave me a couple for my heater box. I too lost them.
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 1:24 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] heater control cable clips


  List

  I'm trying to re-install my heater box on my 1970 LS6. I have somehow lost 
all the "clips" that hold the control cables in place. They look like tiny 
split washers and they may be know as a "spring clip". My assembly manual calls 
them "cable nuts" or "spl. nut". I have tried all the regular places like 
Ground up, year one and the local NAPA stores. 

  Anybody have any suggestions as to where I can find these hard to locate 
parts?

  Bill C

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Re: [Chevelle-list] HOLLEY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Malibu]

Try this Holly site Harlan.


http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Adjusting%20Your%20Carburetor.pdf

Re: [Chevelle-list] Aftermarket A/C

[Malibu]

I installed a vintage air in my '66. It was an air car to start but the 
installation is the same. Tech was very helpful when I had questions. In fact I 
ruined one of the air hoses for the balls and they sent me another no charge. I 
thought the hardest part for me was hanging the unit inside the car. That took 
the most time. But that was probably just me. It works great and I would buy 
another from them. I put a 110 amp alt. on for insurance as I also run a CD 
player. I used the kit from MAD to install it. 
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml  Nice and clean. No drag on 
the electrical when I'm at a light. Lights stay nice and bright at night. 
Sorry, I don't have any pictures.
Rich
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Shaffer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 5:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Aftermarket A/C


  If anyone has pictures of their install I'd sure like to see them.  

  On another note, In preparation for the A/C I'm adding an alumitech radiator 
and dual electric spal fan setup.  Is it safe to assume that I will have to 
upgrade the stock alternator?  Probably a 100 or 140 amp?  Thanks. 

  Rob


  On 6/20/07, Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I put a Vintage Air Sure Fit system in my x-67 non-factory A/C car 
(essentially same dash) and had no real problems with the installation.  I did 
learn that one maybe shouldn't use billet aluminum deflectors on the dash as 
mine continually sweat with the A/C on causing them to drip on the carpet.  
Also, if memory serves, both heater hose connections were 5/8" instead of one 
being 5/8" and one 3/4".  Maybe it was just my unit but something to keep in 
mind that you may need to get more 5/8" hose and an extra block fitting for the 
5/8" hose size.  Check the instructions if you get the Vintage Air unit.



Mine was also for a BBC but a late engine with alternator on the passenger 
side.  I already had a March belt kit and simply added the A/C brackets for the 
driver side.  If you still have the short pump assembly, the alt should remain 
on the driver side and A/C compressor would go on the pass side making A/C hose 
routing a bit easier as well.



Hopefully Herb Lumpp will read this.  His 66 El Camino has an add-on A/C 
unit and he did a terrific job of routing the A/C and heater hoses behind the 
fender skirt for a super clean look.  I have some photos of his installation 
but maybe he can clue you in on the parts and/or work required.



Dale McIntosh

1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

ChevelleStuff.com

 






From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rob Shaffer
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 12:49 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Aftermarket A/C



I am thinking about adding A/C to my 66.  I've looked at both the Vintage 
Air system and the Classic Air.  Looking for any info from the folks here 
regarding any experience installing and using any of these products.  This 
would be converting a non-A/C car to A/C.  Thanks for the help. 

Rob S. 
1966 SS396 Convertible




--

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[Chevelle-list] Laws - a little humor. OT

[Malibu]

   

  Law of Mechanical Repair: After your hands become coated with grease, your 
nose will begin to itch or you'll have to pee. 

  Law of the Workshop: Any tool, when dropped, will roll to the least 
accessible corner. 

  Law of Probability: The probability of being watched is directly proportional 
to the stupidity of your act. 

  Law of the Telephone: If you dial a wrong number, you never get a busy 
signal. 

  Law of the Alibi: If you tell the boss you were late for work because you had 
a flat tire, the very next morning you will have a flat tire. 

  Variation Law: If you change lines (or traffic lanes), the one you were in 
will start to move faster than the one you are in now (works every time). 

  Law of the Bath: When the body is fully immersed in water, the telephone 
rings. 

  Law of Close Encounters: The probability of meeting someone you know 
increases when you are with someone you don't want to be seen with. 

  Law of the Result: When you try to prove to someone that a machine won't 
work, it will. 

  Law of Biomechanics: The severity of the itch is inversely proportional to 
the reach. 

  Law of the Theatre: At any event, the people whose seats are furthest from 
the aisle arrive last. 

  Law of Coffee: As soon as you sit down to a cup of hot coffee, your boss will 
ask you to do something which will last until the coffee is cold. 

  Murphy's Law of Lockers: If there are only two people in a locker room, they 
will have adjacent lockers. 

  Law of Rugs/Carpets: The chances of an open-faced jelly sandwich landing face 
down on a floor covering are directly correlated to the newness and cost of the 
carpet/rug. 

  Law of Location: No matter where you go, there you are. 

  Law of Logical Argument: Anything is possible if you don't know what you are 
talking about. 

  Brown's Law: If the shoe fits, it's ugly. 

  Oliver's Law: A closed mouth gathers no feet. 

  Wilson's Law: As soon as you find a product that you really like, they will 
stop making it. 




  . 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes

[Malibu]

I use a vacuum pump. They're great and it's a one man operation. Check it 
out here. Unfortunately, I paid full price.

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7835-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed/dp/B0007VT4RC
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "ChevelleList" 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:59 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes


I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow 
through the lines.
I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is 
working.


I even , gulp, read the directions.  Open the bleeder open on the brake 
pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom.
I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder 
to the cup .


Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines?
Thanks,
Mike

--
--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6

Re: [Chevelle-list] 396???

[Malibu]

Try this site. Your block is listed.http://muscle-car-resto.com/block/- 
Original Message - 
  From: Dave Benjamin 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 11:28 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 396???


  I picked up the 396 today. There was numbers on front of Block hid in paint. 
Can anyone tell me what they mean???

  1020840 I think.

  Marked on bell housing area,   hi perf truck pass s.3916323.  gm 1 on v2.


  Thanks Again

  Dave
  Ingersoll,Ontario
  My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors

[Malibu]

I thought these sensors were part of the emission control system and were 
warranted for 100,000 miles. My "check engine" just came on in my Blazer 
with 27,000 miles on it. I found 2 sites that talk about testing and 
repairing. If their not warranted, I sure don't want to go to the dealer and 
get ripped. I'll try and check it myself.

http://www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/o2sensor/o2sensor.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/engine/all_o2sensor.html
- Original Message - 
From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors


I have two in total and they're both gonzo. Denso is the OEM brand and  the 
most expensive. They list only one part# for both. Walker's are  $95 each 
for "OEM-style" (with wires & connector) and oddly enough  they list 
seperate part #'s for b4 and after the cat.


The universal ones are anywhere from $20 to $35 each on partstrain.com 
but I have to go out to the car and verify whether mine are one, two, 
three, or four wire. For some reason they all come up as fitting my  car 
but that can't be true.



Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Ouch, 129 bucks. I want to say mine was roughly 40 bucks. I even 
bought it from Auto Zone. If you have two throwing codes, I would 
replace all of them. My truck has 3 total I think. One on the   exhaust 
manifold, before cat, and after cat.


 -Tim

[Chevelle-list] Re;Re: Starter wiring terminals 72 Chevelle

[Malibu]

They're kind of simple looking. I should have said that.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Malibu 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 4:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter wiring terminals 72 Chevelle


  Check this site out. Scroll to the one you need.

  
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/11/cc/b2/0900823d8011ccb2.jsp
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Buckingham 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 10:32 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter wiring terminals 72 Chevelle


I have a new harness, with HEI and three wire alternator from M&H.  I need 
to connect the wires to the starter.  It looks like there are 3 or 4 terminals 
on the starter.  It looks like the S terminal is closest to the engine and the 
purple wire goes on that one.  The center lug is big and the wire from the 
battery goes to that one.  There is then a small terminal directly below the 
battery lug and one outboard of it.  I have two other wires to hook up.  One 
being a yellow and the other is black I beleive.  Which terminals do the 
connect to  Should have wired this up before putting the headers on.

Thanks,

Jim

Re: [Chevelle-list] Starter wiring terminals 72 Chevelle

[Malibu]

Check this site out. Scroll to the one you need.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/11/cc/b2/0900823d8011ccb2.jsp
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim Buckingham 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 10:32 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Starter wiring terminals 72 Chevelle


  I have a new harness, with HEI and three wire alternator from M&H.  I need to 
connect the wires to the starter.  It looks like there are 3 or 4 terminals on 
the starter.  It looks like the S terminal is closest to the engine and the 
purple wire goes on that one.  The center lug is big and the wire from the 
battery goes to that one.  There is then a small terminal directly below the 
battery lug and one outboard of it.  I have two other wires to hook up.  One 
being a yellow and the other is black I beleive.  Which terminals do the 
connect to  Should have wired this up before putting the headers on.

  Thanks,

  Jim

Re: [Chevelle-list] Spark Plug Wire type

[Malibu]

That's right. There's really no need to know how to identify a particular wire 
as they're all marked when sold. You could get some old wires and cut them open 
to see what inside if you wanted to know. Here is a good article on wires.
http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 9:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spark Plug Wire type


  I removed the boot and a multi fiber material (looked like a dozen + fiber 
threads) was crimped over by the metal end of the wire.  Leads me to believe it 
is not a solid wire - sound about right?

  Krister

-- Original message -- 
From: John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

Do they mean you have to use spiral type???...If so the core kinda 
resembles a spring instead of like a solid wire..you should be able to take a 
boot off and see...
    John
66 malibu
327 4 speed

Re: [Chevelle-list] bench seat

[Malibu]

I believe that to be true for bench seat. I know it is for buckets.
  - Original Message - 
  From: ronnie, a.k.a. rocko 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 9:11 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] bench seat


  hello,  just  picked  up  a  split  bench  seat  on  e - bay,  when  talking  
to  the  seller  he  said  theres  a  difference  between  a  66  and  67,  the 
 difference  being  on  a  66  you  can  just  move  the  seat  and  crawl  in  
the  back,  and  on  a  67  they  lock  in  place  and  one  needs  to  pull  
up  on  the  bottom  lever  to  release,  i  have  always  had  buckets  and  
really  not  up  on  the  bench  seat,  was  just  wondering  if  this  is  
true  or  not,  this  info  may  help  someone  else  on  the  list  restoring  
a  66  or  67  and  getting  it  correct,  is  the  seller  correct ?  


--
  Need Mail bonding?
  Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 Rear Quarter Extension Gasket Question

[Malibu]

Rocky, when I put my '66 back together I don't recall a gasket called a 
paint chip gasket. Can you be more specific?

Rich


- Original Message - 
From: "rocky hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Chevelle list" 
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 9:13 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 Rear Quarter Extension Gasket Question



I'm replaceing what is called the paint chip gasket on
my rear quarter extensions.

The replacement rubber looking from the end of it,
looks like a http://macc.chevelles.net
Member #220
Heartland Chevelle Club http://heartland.chevelles.net
Team Chevelle http://www.chevelles.com
Member #1530
MY66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss




Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front

Re: [Chevelle-list] Holley secondary over filling

[Malibu]

Krister, you can ask (e-mail) Holly and they will answer you. Best part is it's 
FREE.

http://www.holley.com/TechService/TechRequest.asp
  - Original - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 9:25 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Holley secondary over filling


  Question 1:

  I just installed a completely rebuilt Holley 4160 (List 3419 which is correct 
and stock for my application).  My only problem is the secondary bowl fills 
totally to the top with fuel.  I removed the bowl; float is free and closes the 
fuel seat when raised to level position.  2nd test: Submerged bowl/float 
assembly in water up to bottom of site plug level and could not blow through 
fuel supply tube going to secondary.  Raising bowl out of water slowly, float 
naturally started to drop and was able to blow through fuel tube the more the 
float dropped.  So I thought good - dried it.  Re-installed bowl, started car, 
removed s econdary site plug and fuel poured out again.  Adjusted float as far 
down as adjustment would allow and still same problem.  What else could be 
making the secondary side bowl to completely fill, above the site plug, with 
fuel?  The primary side is adjusted perfect and has fuel level right at the 
bottom of the site plug when removed - as it should be.  Fuel pump is a brand 
new AC Delco 40170 which is stock for this application.   

   

  Question 2:

  On a '66 fuel pump, a brass 90 degree elbow threads into the side of the fuel 
pump for the pump/carb fuel line.  What type of sealing material should be used 
on the threads going into the pump? Just tightening elbow so it won't leak puts 
it in the wrong direction for the line. 

   

  Thanks for the help.

   

  Krister Meister

  '66 SS 396/360hp #'s

Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Malibu]

Thanks Dale, that's what I'll do. When I take the car out of storage this month 
I'll hook up another gage that's numbered and see what I got.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 11:26 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


  May just be terminology but there's a difference between high volume and high 
pressure pumps.  High volume pumps are normally used to increase oil flow or 
pressure for better oiling and cooling when bearing clearances are on the high 
side.  More oil pressure is produced at idle due to longer or larger gears.

   

  A high pressure pump has a stiffer relief valve spring that doesn't open 
until a high pressure is achieved.  The actual flow rate is no different than a 
standard pump and won't affect oil pressure at idle unless larger gears are 
used for high volume as well.

   

  One over the other is irrelevant since whatever is in there is pegging your 
oil gauge.  Since we now know it's a factory-style gauge with no numbers it's 
hard to say what the calibration is. I'd still hook up a numbered mechanical 
gauge to see just what pressure is being recorded.  If it's constantly over 
50-60 lbs then an oil pump change may be warranted.  If pressure is too high it 
could actually cause harm by pushing oil past the bearing surfaces before it 
has a chance to cool and lube the bearings properly.

   

  Dale McIntosh

  1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

  ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
  Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:27 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

   

  It's the factory style gage. I bought the kit they sell to install the 
battery and oil pressure gages. The reason I really think it's the pump is when 
I bought the engine it was a short block and the guy was building it for circle 
track. I changed the cam because it was too radical for cruising. I remember 
the guy telling me the oil pump was a high volume. This one seems to be super 
high.

- Original Message - 

From: Dale 

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 1:17 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

 

If it's an electrical gauge, it's possible the sending unit in bad or not 
grounding properly.  One reason I've always been leery of electrical temp and 
pressure gauges.  If it's a mechanical gauge from the factory-type gauge 
option, connecting another mechanical gauge inline will let you know the true 
pressure.  These mechanical dash gauges can be replaced fairly easily if the 
gauge is at fault.

 

Dale McIntosh

1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92

 


----

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 5:10 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

 

Thanks for the help. It's the gage in the dash cluster that's pegging the 
needle so I can't switch it. I guess I can try a different gage to see what 
pressure it really is. Not sure I want to pull the engine. Thanks again.

Rich

  - Original Message - 

  From: Brad Waller 

  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

  Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:02 PM

  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

   

  If you are sure you are going to pull the pan, you can always jack up the 
car and try it to see how close you come to getting it off.  If you can't do 
it, then worst case you get a cherry picker and raise or pull the engine.  I 
think it is possible, but I have never tried it in a Chevelle.  I think I was 
able to do it in my '66 Corvette, but that is a much different car.

   

  You also should decide if you really need to go to the trouble of 
swapping out the pump (or spring) to lower the pressure.  While you may not 
need it, and it might be costing you fractional horsepower, it will likely be a 
lot faster, easier, and cheaper to sawp to a high pressure gauge, as Dale 
mentioned.

  Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

  '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
  '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


----

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:59 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

Can the oil pan 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Malibu]

Interesting story. Thanks
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Piper 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 8:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


  I can't speak for the 66 but I have done such a thing in a 64 Elky with a 
small block. Wouldn't be much that there would be much difference other then 
maybe a different or pan.

   

  This is a My First Car story - Not showing my age but back in the early 70's 
I purchased a 1964 that had been abused in every way.  As a young novice and 
looking to get some college credit I took a number of automotive courses using 
the El Camino as my patient. To make a long story short the Elky was 
transformed from a junk yard dog to a relatively nice driver, new engine, 
trans, paint, interior etc.  

   

  Well anyway I was in the military at the time and decided to take the car on 
a road trip to visit Mom & Dad to show off my handy work. About 6 hours into 
the road trip (somewhere in Kentucky) my idiot light came on. I put a couple 
quarts of oil in the motor and proceeded on or so I thought.  The light didn't 
go out. I pulled over again to confirm sufficient oil and no short in the 
wiring only to determine that now the engine was about two quarts over full and 
I didn't have a wiring problem.  To confirm I had a oil pressure problem I 
pulled the sending unit from the rear of the block and had the wife turn the 
motor over to determine if we were getting any oil. No oil!

   

  I failed to mention that I'm miles from anywhere about ¾ ways up a mountain.  
Again thinking I was smart and knowing what was behind me I figured the best 
shot of resolving the problem was the drive the car to the top and drift down 
the other side to the nearest "service station" (they existed in those days).  
Anyway guess what - the first place I come to is an early version of 7-11 or a 
mom/pop store with no maintenance capabilities.  It turns out I could not have 
found a better location.

   

  I explained my dilemma to the store owner (in those days you ran your own 
store). He crossed his arms, put his chin on his hand and said "hmmm its 25 
miles to town and the mechanic is closed on Sunday.  If I needed to work on the 
car in his drive I could and he let me borrow a jack.  I couldn't ask for a 
better host, he gave me the keys to his truck, told me about a motel the other 
side of the hwy to bed the wife down and sent one of his sons into town to 
fetch an oil pump while I pulled the old one.

   

  Finally the answer to your question and my first encounter as a shade tree 
mechanic:  Between the old man's jack a small hydraulic jack I carried with me 
and a small bag of sockets and hand tools we managed to gether done!  While 
under a shade tree we used the spare tire, soda crates and what ever we could 
find to jack up the car (I have pictures somewhere).  After getting the pan 
bolts loose and the cover off the torque converter I realized that the oil pump 
and pickup was preventing the pan from being removed.  

   

  I removed the distributor cap and engine mount bolts. Used the small 
hydraulic jack set between the frame and the alternator bracket and managed to 
get the motor high enough to pull the pan. When I got the oil pump off I was 
expecting the shaft to be busted or the gears to be destroyed but I was and 
still am to find the pump in good working order and not fowled in any way 
except one of the ears where the pump connects to the bottom of the distributor 
was broken off. To this day I haven't figured why that happened. 

   

  Well everything went back together pretty smoothly except I busted the 
alternator bracket (guess it wasn't designed to hold the weight of the engine 
and trans).  I have met the nicest people in Kentucky. I worked on the car 
until the batteries went dead; I stayed with the car that night since all our 
stuff was in the back. The old man who owned the store showed up about midnight 
with a six pack to make sure I was doing OK!  He offered to buy the car and 
take us where we were going. He was the right person at the right time.  To 
this day I try and return the favor to stranded motorist. 

   

  The rest of the trip was uneventful except the run-in with the motorcycle 
gang on the way home but that's another story. Thanks for letting me reminisce. 
 I wouldn't recommend attempting to duplicate this practice; I'm amazed that 
the car and or engine didn't fall on me.   Good Luck!

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
  Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 2:59 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

   

  Can the oil pan be pulled on a '66 Malibu with just raising the front of the 
engine? I need to change the high volume oil pump. It's sending the needle off 
the gage.

  Thanks

Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Malibu]

It's the factory style gage. I bought the kit they sell to install the battery 
and oil pressure gages. The reason I really think it's the pump is when I 
bought the engine it was a short block and the guy was building it for circle 
track. I changed the cam because it was too radical for cruising. I remember 
the guy telling me the oil pump was a high volume. This one seems to be super 
high.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 1:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


  If it's an electrical gauge, it's possible the sending unit in bad or not 
grounding properly.  One reason I've always been leery of electrical temp and 
pressure gauges.  If it's a mechanical gauge from the factory-type gauge 
option, connecting another mechanical gauge inline will let you know the true 
pressure.  These mechanical dash gauges can be replaced fairly easily if the 
gauge is at fault.

   

  Dale McIntosh

  1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

  ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
  Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 5:10 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

   

  Thanks for the help. It's the gage in the dash cluster that's pegging the 
needle so I can't switch it. I guess I can try a different gage to see what 
pressure it really is. Not sure I want to pull the engine. Thanks again.

  Rich

- Original Message - 

From: Brad Waller 

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:02 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

 

If you are sure you are going to pull the pan, you can always jack up the 
car and try it to see how close you come to getting it off.  If you can't do 
it, then worst case you get a cherry picker and raise or pull the engine.  I 
think it is possible, but I have never tried it in a Chevelle.  I think I was 
able to do it in my '66 Corvette, but that is a much different car.

 

You also should decide if you really need to go to the trouble of swapping 
out the pump (or spring) to lower the pressure.  While you may not need it, and 
it might be costing you fractional horsepower, it will likely be a lot faster, 
easier, and cheaper to sawp to a high pressure gauge, as Dale mentioned.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
  Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:59 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

  Can the oil pan be pulled on a '66 Malibu with just raising the front of 
the engine? I need to change the high volume oil pump. It's sending the needle 
off the gage.

  Thanks

Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Malibu]

Thanks for the help. It's the gage in the dash cluster that's pegging the 
needle so I can't switch it. I guess I can try a different gage to see what 
pressure it really is. Not sure I want to pull the engine. Thanks again.
Rich
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brad Waller 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


  If you are sure you are going to pull the pan, you can always jack up the car 
and try it to see how close you come to getting it off.  If you can't do it, 
then worst case you get a cherry picker and raise or pull the engine.  I think 
it is possible, but I have never tried it in a Chevelle.  I think I was able to 
do it in my '66 Corvette, but that is a much different car.

  You also should decide if you really need to go to the trouble of swapping 
out the pump (or spring) to lower the pressure.  While you may not need it, and 
it might be costing you fractional horsepower, it will likely be a lot faster, 
easier, and cheaper to sawp to a high pressure gauge, as Dale mentioned.
  Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

  '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
  '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:59 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


Can the oil pan be pulled on a '66 Malibu with just raising the front of 
the engine? I need to change the high volume oil pump. It's sending the needle 
off the gage.
Thanks

[Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Malibu]

Can the oil pan be pulled on a '66 Malibu with just raising the front of the 
engine? I need to change the high volume oil pump. It's sending the needle off 
the gage.
Thanks

[Chevelle-list] Marketing Scandal Exposed OT

[Malibu]

Has anybody seen this?



==-- "Spank My Monkey" Marketing Scandal Exposed by Hotrodders.com --==
The "Spank My Monkey" scandal began when the forums of the Hotrodders
Bulletin Board were spammed with a lewd guerrilla marketing promotion.
The promotional material included a photograph of men leaning on a hot
rod wearing thongs imprinted with the slogan "Spank My Monkey", and a
video featuring close-ups of urinating in the street, drinking and
driving, and a scene in which a shop owner declared that he was "The
Anti-Christ of the Hot Rod World".

We discovered that the "Spank My Monkey" marketing promotion was tied to
several prominent names in the hotrodding industry. The promotional
video encouraged people to attend a car giveaway at the upcoming SEMA
Show, the huge annual industry show put on by SEMA, the Specialty
Equipment Market Association. In addition, the material had been posted
by a marketer working in connection with Overhaulin', a popular hot
rod-themed television show on The Learning Channel.

To handle the situation, SEMA's recent Chairman of the Board, Corky
Coker, registered a username on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board. The
promotional video had mentioned Coker's company, Coker Tire, and had
featured his brother and his wheel company, Newstalgia Wheel. After
Coker failed to convince the forum members of his innocence, he got
caught in a scheme to use a fake username to make veiled threats to the
forum administrator. Following Coker's public relations fiasco, the SEMA
car giveaway which had been promoted in the video ended up never
occurring, and the episodes of Overhaulin' on The Learning Channel which
were scheduled to feature the Spank My Monkey participants were quietly
pulled from the air.

Lacking a genuine apology from Coker, SEMA, or The Learning Channel, we
documented and parodied the failed Spank My Monkey marketing campaign on
a new website, SpankMyMarketer.com. SpankMyMarketer.com aims to
"reverse" the Spank My Monkey promotion by teaching people what goes on
behind the scenes in guerrilla marketing campaigns, and enabling them to
make their own "anti-advertisements" of the original Spank My Monkey
promotional material.

http://SpankMyMarketer.com

When Discovery Communications (the parent company of The Learning
Channel, Discovery Channel, and many other television channels) found
out about SpankMyMarketer.com, they tried to silence our criticism. A
lawyer for Discovery attempted to use baseless legal claims to demand
the takedown of an embarrassing photograph of Discovery's executives on
SpankMyMarketer.com. We refused to comply, citing our right to free
speech in exposing and parodying the Spank My Monkey promotion. When
Discovery wouldn't back down, the net's leading free speech
organization, the Electronic Frontier Foundation (the "EFF") came to our
assistance with free legal representation.

It's fascinating to witness the financial goals of certain elements of
the hotrodding industry intersect with the cultural values of online
hotrodding communities. Men in thongs, "spank my monkey" slogans, hot
rod Anti-Christs, secret threats from top industry executives, and shows
pulled from television.

Our members know that we exist to freely share hotrodding knowledge and
culture. We're not fodder for the industry's guerrilla marketing
campaigns, and we certainly don't back down when multi-billion dollar
corporations try to threaten our right to speak freely.

For the full details on the Spank My Monkey marketing scandal, visit
SpankMyMarketer.com:

http://SpankMyMarketer.com


Or, follow the story in the press:

Discovery Upset About Parody Spanking
http://www.securitypronews.com/2007/0216.html

EFF Backs SpankMaker
http://www.p2pnet.net/story/11350

Discovery Communications Tries to Chill Speech with Baseless Legal Claims
http://www.eff.org/news/archives/2007_02.php#005126

Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO

[Malibu]

Yes I sent it in. Took 4 weeks to get it back but was worth it. They replaced 
the innards with a digital unit. You can't tell by looking at it except for the 
LED light that tells me when I'm receiving AM or FM. I could have chose to 
leave that. The sound is fantastic. I think I paid $375. Well worth it to me. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 7:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO


  Two questions for you. 

  I'm assuming you sent in your orginal and had it converted. What was the cost 
and what did you have done?

  What is a "Automoble radio vibrator"? Saw this in their online catalog.





-Original Message- 
From: Malibu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
Sent: Mar 22, 2007 6:52 AM 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO 


I had mine converted.
http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 9:19 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO


  Thanks for the idea Jerry. My delco still works but needs some tune up 
and cosmetics done to it. Know it'll sound good but detracts from the my car in 
current condition. You going to CB07? Thanks, Les.





--
  AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free 
from AOL at AOL.com. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO

[Malibu]

I had mine converted.
http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 9:19 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] RADIO


  Thanks for the idea Jerry. My delco still works but needs some tune up and 
cosmetics done to it. Know it'll sound good but detracts from the my car in 
current condition. You going to CB07? Thanks, Les.





--
  AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from 
AOL at AOL.com. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 gas tank vent pipe

[Malibu]

You never answered if you wanted me to send it. I'll scan it today and send 
it to you. Sorry for the confusion.
- Original Message - 
From: "mike f" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 gas tank vent pipe



We talked about that vent pipe some time ago. You said
you can send me a picture. If you can, great.
Appreciate the information.
mike
--- Bow Tie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It goes in from the top in the hole at the rear
right side of the trunk. There is a clip above this
hole on the panel that the vent clips to. And it's
held in place with a rubber grommet in the hole. If
you would like a picture, I can scan one and send it
to you.

mike f <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I had the car
off the frame for cleaning and painting
and now it looks like the vent pipe will not go back
in. Can you tell me the way to get it back in?

mike







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Re: [Chevelle-list] The Worlds Fastest Motor Car.(Production Car)

[Malibu]

About $1,668,636 USD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Cerberus Kelpie 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 5:24 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] The Worlds Fastest Motor Car.(Production Car)






  Thank You malibu_66. 
  John Schumacher quit "because he wasn't fast enough".
   850,000 Pounds--how much is that converted to American?? NOT Tonnage but 
Currency! 

  16 Cylinders, 4 Turbochargers, 10 Radiators, ??gears, and CRUSING at 6,000 
RPM's at 253mph. 
  The camera angles to me made the front end appear odd as if they were "pushed 
back" further than they actually are. 

  Leave it to the Italians to be the "driving" force. 
  Bugatti or "Believe U Got A True Track Intellect". 
  Where in the states can one achieve that speed w/out interference besides the 
Salt Flats out west?? What tracks are available in this country?? Where did 
Carroll Shelby test his creations besides I-80 in Nevada?? 

  Thank You again malibu_66!!

  Fanbleedintastic mate.  ~Eric G. uv NC~



--
  Want a degree but can't afford to quit? Top school degrees online - in as 
fast as 1 year 

[Chevelle-list] The worlds fastest production car. OT

[Malibu]

Message




The worlds fastest production car.




Subject: Bugatti video incredible]




http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x157l2_bugatti-veyron-at-top-speed


Classic quote:

"At this speed the tires will only last 15 minutes...but that's ok, because the 
fuel runs out in 12.

Re: [Chevelle-list] parts help

[Malibu]

Try this site.
http://www.carsinc.com/parts/sheetmetal/trunk-floor-and-lid-related/trunk-floors/1965-1972-chevy/impala-65-72/1966/
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim H. Thompson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 6:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] parts help


  Hubbard'shttp://www.impalaparts.com/Store/index.php 

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Benjamin
  Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 10:55 PM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] parts help

   

  Sorry not chevelle but still old. 

   

  I have a guy looking to buy trunk floor pan for a 1966 Impala. He is in 
laporte indiana.

   

  Thank you for any Help

   

  Dave
  Ingersoll,Ontario
  My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

   

[Chevelle-list] Fw: 69 chevelle radio

[Malibu]

Never mind Dave, I found one locally. Thanks anyway.
Rich
- Original Message - 
From: Malibu 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle radio


Dave, if no one has taken the radio yet, I'd be interested in it. Thanks
Rich
  - Original Message - 
From: Dave MacGregor 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle radio


if anyone is interested, I have an AM radio out of a 70 chevelle I sold a 
while back. Model # 01APB1. The radio was made in Canada and is in like new 
condition. I was the third owner of the car. The second owner removed it to 
install an AM/FM tape deck. Pay for the shipping and its yours.

Dave MacGregor
Vancouver, B.C.
Canada