Re: Stus-List Masthead surprise!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Thx 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 11:42:14 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead surprise! 

Just make sure all the halyards are tight. I drop a bicycle chain on 80 lb 
mono-filament. When it hits bottom, jiggle it up and down a few times to make 
sure it's moving freely before the deck person grabs it. I pull another 
messenger made of parachute cord up to then pull the cable down. It sound like 
an extra step but it works. 

You don't want any lumps in the pull. If I'm pulling a duplex cable, I cut the 
sheath and cut about a foot off one of the wires. The parachute cord is then 
whipped to the other wire with dental floss. Wrap the joint with electrical 
tape. Overlapping the cord and one wire makes a smooth joint which doesn't hang 
up on halyards. 

If you're dropping a single wire, tie dental floss around the wire and the 
messenger with a small gap. This is one reason we switch to parachute cord from 
the mono-filament. Trying to tie dental floss to mono-filament has a low rate 
of success. 

The mast person and deck person have to work together. The two of you need to 
keep the pull tight. That is, the mast person feeds as the deck person pulls. 
If you get slack in the cable or messenger, it might form a loop and hang 
behind a halyard or another wire. 

You might find a hemostat handy for pulling the messenger out of the bottom. 

I violated nearly all of the above this time, I couldn't find my chain and used 
a clevis pin then just tried to pull the cable down with the monofilament. My 
helper and I didn't keep the pull taut. Being lazy and paid the price. 

My rigger buddy was busy and I had a dock neighbor help. My rigger buddy and I 
are a well oiled team with 100% success. It really does make a difference when 
you both know what the drill is. 

Dennis C. 

On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 10:05 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



Hi Dennis, 
Is there a trick to getting that new line or cable run down the mast without 
crossing hayards? I used the bicycle chain method to fish a new genoa halyard 
but I later wondered if it was run fair and not tangled around another halyard. 
Any tips would be apreciated. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "CnClist" < CnC-List@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "Dennis C." < capt...@gmail.com > 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 10:46:17 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Masthead surprise! 


I was aloft putting a Windex light on Touche' today. I drilled a hole in the 
side of the mast about 4 inches below the masthead to drop the power cable. 
When the drill burst through, a lot of dust and dirt came out. 

A bit of exploring and digging with a screwdriver revealed a bunch of dried 
mud. Since to my knowledge, nobody has ever buried Touche's mast in the bottom 
of Lake Pontchartrain, I decided on a different scenario. I guess a bunch of 
dirt daubers had filled the top 4-5 inches of the mast with mud nests. Had to 
dig under the hole with Special Tool WCH (wire coat hanger) to clear a path to 
drop the messenger line. 

Couldn't help but think about all the racers (including me) who try to minimize 
weight aloft only to have a bunch of pesky insects negate some of your efforts. 
:) 

BTW, we broke the messenger line so we'll give it another try Wednesday. That 
was a first. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

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___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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___ 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box and shaft saver couplings and vibration.

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Good luck. My shaft was radially warped, so not fixable. Plus the strut was
not oriented correctly to the shaft log, which is why I really had the
vibration. Nothing that $5k wouldn't fix.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



>
>
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Re: Stus-List Masthead surprise!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just make sure all the halyards are tight.  I drop a bicycle chain on 80 lb
mono-filament.  When it hits bottom, jiggle it up and down a few times to
make sure it's moving freely before the deck person grabs it.  I pull
another messenger made of parachute cord up to then pull the cable down.
It sound like an extra step but it works.

You don't want any lumps in the pull.  If I'm pulling a duplex cable, I cut
the sheath and cut about a foot off one of the wires.  The parachute cord
is then whipped to the other wire with dental floss.  Wrap the joint with
electrical tape.  Overlapping the cord and one wire makes a smooth joint
which doesn't hang up on halyards.

If you're dropping a single wire, tie dental floss around the wire and the
messenger with a small gap.  This is one reason we switch to parachute cord
from the mono-filament.  Trying to tie dental floss to mono-filament has a
low rate of success.

The mast person and deck person have to work together.  The two of you need
to keep the pull tight.  That is, the mast person feeds as the deck person
pulls.  If you get slack in the cable or messenger, it might form a loop
and hang behind a halyard or another wire.

You might find a hemostat handy for pulling the messenger out of the bottom.

I violated nearly all of the above this time, I couldn't find my chain and
used a clevis pin then just tried to pull the cable down with the
monofilament.  My helper and I didn't keep the pull taut.  Being lazy and
paid the price.

My rigger buddy was busy and I had a dock neighbor help.  My rigger buddy
and I are a well oiled team with 100% success.  It really does make a
difference when you both know what the drill is.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 10:05 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
> Is there a trick to getting that new line or cable run down the mast
> without crossing hayards?   I used the bicycle chain method to fish a new
> genoa halyard but I later wondered if it was run fair and not tangled
> around another halyard.  Any tips would be apreciated.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"CnClist" 
> *Cc: *"Dennis C." 
> *Sent: *Monday, April 25, 2016 10:46:17 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Masthead surprise!
>
>
> I was aloft putting a Windex light on Touche' today.  I drilled a hole in
> the side of the mast about 4 inches below the masthead to drop the power
> cable.  When the drill burst through, a lot of dust and dirt came out.
>
> A bit of exploring and digging with a screwdriver revealed a bunch of
> dried mud.  Since to my knowledge, nobody has ever buried Touche's mast in
> the bottom of Lake Pontchartrain, I decided on a different scenario.  I
> guess a bunch of dirt daubers had filled the top 4-5 inches of the mast
> with mud nests.  Had to dig under the hole with Special Tool WCH (wire coat
> hanger) to clear a path to drop the messenger line.
>
> Couldn't help but think about all the racers (including me) who try to
> minimize weight aloft only to have a bunch of pesky insects negate some of
> your efforts.  :)
>
> BTW, we broke the messenger line so we'll give it another try Wednesday.
> That was a first.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Masthead surprise!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis, 
Is there a trick to getting that new line or cable run down the mast without 
crossing hayards? I used the bicycle chain method to fish a new genoa halyard 
but I later wondered if it was run fair and not tangled around another halyard. 
Any tips would be apreciated. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 10:46:17 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Masthead surprise! 

I was aloft putting a Windex light on Touche' today. I drilled a hole in the 
side of the mast about 4 inches below the masthead to drop the power cable. 
When the drill burst through, a lot of dust and dirt came out. 

A bit of exploring and digging with a screwdriver revealed a bunch of dried 
mud. Since to my knowledge, nobody has ever buried Touche's mast in the bottom 
of Lake Pontchartrain, I decided on a different scenario. I guess a bunch of 
dirt daubers had filled the top 4-5 inches of the mast with mud nests. Had to 
dig under the hole with Special Tool WCH (wire coat hanger) to clear a path to 
drop the messenger line. 

Couldn't help but think about all the racers (including me) who try to minimize 
weight aloft only to have a bunch of pesky insects negate some of your efforts. 
:) 

BTW, we broke the messenger line so we'll give it another try Wednesday. That 
was a first. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

___ 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Masthead surprise!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I was aloft putting a Windex light on Touche' today.  I drilled a hole in
the side of the mast about 4 inches below the masthead to drop the power
cable.  When the drill burst through, a lot of dust and dirt came out.

A bit of exploring and digging with a screwdriver revealed a bunch of dried
mud.  Since to my knowledge, nobody has ever buried Touche's mast in the
bottom of Lake Pontchartrain, I decided on a different scenario.  I guess a
bunch of dirt daubers had filled the top 4-5 inches of the mast with mud
nests.  Had to dig under the hole with Special Tool WCH (wire coat hanger)
to clear a path to drop the messenger line.

Couldn't help but think about all the racers (including me) who try to
minimize weight aloft only to have a bunch of pesky insects negate some of
your efforts.  :)

BTW, we broke the messenger line so we'll give it another try Wednesday.
That was a first.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Stuffing Box and shaft saver couplings and vibration.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I just made the decision to replace the stuffing in my existing box (original) 
rather than to get a dripless box. The surveyor I used when I bought the boat 
told me not to use a dripless box due to vibration in my shaft. I have an 18" 2 
blade MaxProp, rebuilt last year, with a new cutlass bearing and shaft 
alignment. Still more vibration than I wanted.
Thought about getting a flexible coupling for the shaft to help with the 
vibration. Had the bottom soda blasted instead; that ate up this year's 
discretionary funds. I did have the shaft key recut to allow the prop to ride 
closer to the strut. that will also put new shaft material in the cutlass 
bearing and the stuffing box. The shaft is a few thousandths of a millimeter 
out of straight. I hope that's not the problem.
Pegathy goes back in next week. We'll see.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Jib Sheet Line size.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the responses. I've just bought a bunch of 9/16 line for 
halyards (current size) from Valley Rope for just over 50 cents a foot. I could 
convert one to make sheets. I'll probably use soft shackles to attach it. I'm 
absolutely sure it will be fine for any weather I would want to be out in. I'm 
less sure of how it would do in a big blow.

I believe I had 9/16 sheets on my Pearson 30 when I bought it back in 1977. It 
was double braid, and I believe polyester. But that was a much smaller sail, 
even though it was a 150%. 
Also, having experience now, I'm not sure that 9/16 isn't easier to handle 
overall than is 5/8. 5/8 is heavy and stiff. And also the max limit of my self 
tailers. Maybe even one size too large.
Thanks again, 

Dan SheerPegathy = Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 8:31 AM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 143
   
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Today's Topics:

  1.  boarding ladder (Della Barba, Joe)
  2.  Removing Traveler Track C 29-1 (Sophia Weber)
  3. Re:  Stuffing box options on LF38 (Marek Dziedzic (hotmail))
  4. Re:  Stuffing box options on LF38 (Della Barba, Joe)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:57:45 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder
Message-ID:
    <4971e55edfb5424594407ff674029...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS ? I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:01:02 -0400
From: Sophia Weber <sophia.we...@gmail.com>
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Removing Traveler Track C 29-1
Message-ID:
    

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

If this was an hydraulic hose under pressure, I’d say NO. The internal
clearances in the fitting as matched to the construction and dimensions of
the hose it is being installed on.

 

But, heck, this is ¼” fuel hose and it is under suction. You just need for
it to not leak air into the hose. A barbed fitting with a band clamp on the
outside is just fine for the application. As long as you can screw the
fitting back together and get a tight fit between the fitting and the hose
ID you are probably good to go.

 

So buy some of the Trident hose and see how well it all goes together. If it
doesn’t fit you’re out a couple of bucks for the ¼” hose and the time you
spent on the experiment.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

Hi Rick, yes the black hose with the white tracer flecks.  Would I be able
to use The Trident Barrier lined B1
  type fuel line on these?  I guess it depends on whether the fittings fit,
right?  ID .25 inch and OD .43 inch

>From what I can tell there are 2 lines of text on the Ferrule;

1/4 1/4 1/4
5-5-5-5-5

Danny

 

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Re: Stus-List Indoor teak and non-skid

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Lots of options for you for nonskid.

On my companionway steps I use a grey peel and stick strip similar to
this:

<
http://www.basspro.com/INCOM-Life-Safe-Non-Skid-Traction-Tape-Strips/product/1108311249309/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_THUMBNAIL
>

Think I got it from Overtons or similar.  I also use it on the plywood
floor of my inflatable.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One of the first things I did upon purchase of the Safari was to remove
> the worn out non-skid on the companionway stairs. It left very clear areas
> where it had been protecting the teak and where it had not. It also alerted
> me to the fact that the stairs, and areas around the stairs on the galley
> look like they could use some love.  See my album here:
>
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZGWZuqDGeuehF
>
>
> Any suggestions for:
>
>
> A) best non-skid option for stairs (esp. descending just along the front
> edge of the steps, which seems to be where most accidents occur) and
>
>
> B) how to treat the indoor teak to help it better match the rest of the
> teak in the cabin? I presume it’s oiled, but that’s about where my
> knowledge stops.
>
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I recently dropped from 7/16 StaSet to 3/8 VPC on my 35-1.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 11:18 AM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill.
> Killing a flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I
> need 1/2? And how long?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy - Landfall 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> I don't know what happens when they go wrong, but they have some sort of 
> failure mode that suddenly lets in an awful lot of water.

A catastrophic PSS shaft seal failure I have read about and believe happened 
was caused by long term neglect followed by someone putting the engine in gear. 
I do not recall if it was a sailboat or a powerboat.

The neglected shaft seal rotator was firmly stuck to the carbon piece at the 
end of the bellows.  With rotation powered by the engine the frozen rotator 
transmitted all the force into the bellows tearing it apart.

IIRC various sea life added to the salt water corrosion to lock the SS and 
carbon pieces together.

I also had a traditional shaft log fail on a E 30+ I had in charter back in 
1987.  The nut backed off after the charterer fooled around with it attempting 
to reduce the drip.  Fortunately he figured it out before the boat sank.  The 
water was reported to be just reaching the floorboards.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 5:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I chose to replace the packing box on my C with a new Buck Algonquin 
conventional packing after 2 catastrophic failures of drip less packing glands 
in boats at my marina in a single month. One sank, and the other made it to the 
travel lift in time. Both power boats. I admit that I know little about the PSS 
product, but after witnessing that, I didn't even consider one of them. I 
concluded that the conventional system was a safer bet for me. 

I don't know what happens when they go wrong, but they have some sort of 
failure mode that suddenly lets in an awful lot of water. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL


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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Dan, 
My bad, better make that 50’ of 1/2” trophy braid!!!
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk 11
Oriental, NC


From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Daniel Sheer 
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet size

I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how 
long?

Thanks,

Dan Sheer
Pegathy - Landfall 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco





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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Dan,
I went with 1/2” Samson Trophy Braid for my boat. Used 41’ per side but you 
might want a foot or two more for a 145%. I really like the “hand” of the 
trophy braid.
James
Delaney
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Daniel Sheer 
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet size

I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how 
long?

Thanks,

Dan Sheer
Pegathy - Landfall 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco





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Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

If that helps mine call for 30' per side of 1/2 braided I use "plane Jane" 
New England ropes sta-set

In terms of load, my boat's smaller but the sailplan is comparable with a 
487 square feet 135% genoa and 541 square feet 150 genoa..   (669 Square 
total @ 100% fore triangle)

Anyway, 1/2" braided is plenty strong.  Even if i could go with a smaller 
diameter  / higher tech line I would not as the 1/2" braid is ideal to 
give good bite to the self tailers.. 

Also, I would not go any shorter than 30' per side. There's really not 
that much left when we go wing on wing with the whisker pole using the 150 
genoa. 

My 2 cents. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



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Re: Stus-List Indoor teak and non-skid

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

Hi,  There are several anti-skip tapes usually in boat stores, the best in my 
opinion being the Treadmaster for stairs ( with sticking back ).Or maybe the 
cheapest route is the skateboard "grip tape" but this is probably much harder 
on shoe soles for sure  :-)
SylvainC MkIII

  From: Andrew Means via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Means 
 Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 4:56 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Indoor teak and non-skid
   
#yiv1457106364 body{font-family:Helvetica, Arial;font-size:13px;}One of the 
first things I did upon purchase of the Safari was to remove the worn out 
non-skid on the companionway stairs. It left very clear areas where it had been 
protecting the teak and where it had not. It also alerted me to the fact that 
the stairs, and areas around the stairs on the galley look like they could use 
some love.  See my album here:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZGWZuqDGeuehF
Any suggestions for:
A) best non-skid option for stairs (esp. descending just along the front edge 
of the steps, which seems to be where most accidents occur) and
B) how to treat the indoor teak to help it better match the rest of the teak in 
the cabin? I presume it’s oiled, but that’s about where my knowledge stops.
Andrew 
 -- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk ISeattle, WA
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Stus-List Indoor teak and non-skid

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

One of the first things I did upon purchase of the Safari was to remove the 
worn out non-skid on the companionway stairs. It left very clear areas where it 
had been protecting the teak and where it had not. It also alerted me to the 
fact that the stairs, and areas around the stairs on the galley look like they 
could use some love.  See my album here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZGWZuqDGeuehF

Any suggestions for:

A) best non-skid option for stairs (esp. descending just along the front edge 
of the steps, which seems to be where most accidents occur) and

B) how to treat the indoor teak to help it better match the rest of the teak in 
the cabin? I presume it’s oiled, but that’s about where my knowledge stops.

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA___

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Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Being an architecture school graduate, I'm pretty familiar with Frank 
Gehry's architecture and design aesthetic.  I learned a bit about Greman 
Frers while boat shopping and reading about some boats caught my eye 
that were designed by him.


This boat has a place in nautical history and in architectural design. 
This is most notably interesting as you have an ideal scenario. A world 
famous architect with many remarkable buildings standing, a world famous 
naval architect with many remarkable designs afloat, an extremely 
reputable yard AND a very rich client with pockets deep enough and and 
interest strong enough to spend the money that would make something like 
this happen!  It is a true rarity and this is a boat that will, most 
likely, be talked among students of both worlds for many years to come!


Danny

On 4/25/2016 1:45 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
I was given a tour of /Foggy /when she was in Edgartown for the "Round 
The Vineyard Race last summer.


The interior was fascinating.   But no opening ports anywhere. Felt a 
little constricting and disconnected from the elements.  And the 
"windows" reveal the construction cross-section.  Hard to not be 
impressed.   All systems, of course, were impeccable.


Interesting study, but not to my taste

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:48:47 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: brianwdavis...@gmail.com

Extremely cool!!  Thanks for sharing.

Brian
'80 LF38

On Apr 25, 2016 11:42 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


This is something Interesting!  She looks fast!


http://www.townandcountrymag.com/leisure/sporting/news/a3650/gehry-yacht-foggy/

Danny


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Re: Stus-List Digest mode for the list

[Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List]

I will attempt to change via Gmail app.
On Apr 25, 2016 12:26, "Stu via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Digest mode does not mean 1 email per day.  There are settings in the
> program that govern how many messages and the size of the messages to
> create a digest.  If messages from other users are NOT trimmed, you might
> get several digests a day.  If there is a lot of traffic during 1 day, the
> same could happen.
>
> Digest mode is NOT recommended.  Go back to regular emails and just create
> a folder and set rules that put our list emails into that folder.  Or,
> create a separate email account (Gmail, Yahoo, etc.) strictly for list
> emails.
>
> Stu
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[rickbrass via CnC-List]

The Genoa sheets for the 155 on my 38 mk2 are 7/16ths. Half inch may still be overkill, slightly, For the smaller headsail on a LF38.Rick BrassSent from my Verizon 4G LTE SmartphoneOn Apr 25, 2016 12:18 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  wrote:I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how long?Thanks,Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco___

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dan,

Most of our owner’s manuals were written before the age of high modulus cored 
performance double braid ropes and would specify big rope to handle the heavy 
load of an overlapping headsail.  My LF 35 calls for 5/8” jib sheets as well.  
While in most peoples’ eyes a bigger jib sheet can be easier on the hands, the 
tensile strength of a good performing polyester double braid or blended core 
rope of ½” will be more than adequate.  9/16” or 14mm rope isn’t as common and 
many marine dealers and chandleries only stock a few options in that size.  One 
thing to consider is how the rope fits in the jaws of the self tailer on the 
boat.  50’ to 55’ per line will be fine for your length boat, even with the 
larger jib.

 

For folks hoping for some decent deals or marine cordage, R Rope in 
Massachusetts www.rwrope.com   is having their annual 
RopeFest event this Saturday and will have 20%+  off everything.  They are also 
extending the same discount online Friday-Monday.  If you live in the area R 
has a  killer surplus and closeout section too.  At RopeFest, they do splicing 
clinics, specialty knot tying, rope climbing walls, high angle rescue 
techniques plus lots of giveaways and complimentary food.  YES, they do ship to 
Canada and can do so via US Mail if you prefer.

 

Full disclosure, I spent two years as their marine sales mgr and they’re a very 
good client of mine.  But being cheap AND a boater, I like to make people aware 
of good deals when I see them.

And while I’m in the mood to share good news, my 1975 25mk 1, went down the 
road on a trailer to the new owner’s home, leaving me as a single C owner 
once more!

Cheers,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer ; Daniel Sheer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

 

I use 1/2-inch on my 135% self-furling genny on my LF38--no problem!  Don't 
know the length offhand but the owner's manual has the required lengths.

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com  

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:18 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  > wrote:

I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how 
long?

 

Thanks,

 

Dan Sheer

Pegathy - Landfall 38

Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 

___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat

[David via CnC-List]

I was given a tour of Foggy when she was in Edgartown for the "Round The 
Vineyard Race last summer.

The interior was fascinating.   But no opening ports anywhere. Felt a little 
constricting and disconnected from the elements.  And the "windows" reveal the 
construction cross-section.  Hard to not be impressed.   All systems, of 
course, were impeccable.   

Interesting study, but not to my taste

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:48:47 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: brianwdavis...@gmail.com

Extremely cool!!  Thanks for sharing.
Brian

'80 LF38
On Apr 25, 2016 11:42 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
wrote:
This is something  Interesting!  She looks fast!



http://www.townandcountrymag.com/leisure/sporting/news/a3650/gehry-yacht-foggy/



Danny





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Virus-free. www.avast.com



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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Here’s what I got last time I ordered from Cajun Rope:

> Jib sheets:  (2) x 45 feet of 9/16" XLE, white w/red flecks, whipped  ends = 
> $87.20

I think the diameter helps on the hands, and winches well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 25, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I use 1/2-inch on my 135% self-furling genny on my LF38--no problem!  Don't 
> know the length offhand but the owner's manual has the required lengths.
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> 
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:18 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
>> I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing 
>> a flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? 
>> And how long?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Dan Sheer
>> Pegathy - Landfall 38
>> Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I use 1/2-inch on my 135% self-furling genny on my LF38--no problem!  Don't 
know the length offhand but the owner's manual has the required lengths.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:18 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
> flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And 
> how long?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy - Landfall 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Digest mode for the list

[Stu via CnC-List]

Digest mode does not mean 1 email per day.  There are settings in the program 
that govern how many messages and the size of the messages to create a digest.  
If messages from other users are NOT trimmed, you might get several digests a 
day.  If there is a lot of traffic during 1 day, the same could happen.

Digest mode is NOT recommended.  Go back to regular emails and just create a 
folder and set rules that put our list emails into that folder.  Or, create a 
separate email account (Gmail, Yahoo, etc.) strictly for list emails.

Stu
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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Doing my part in the War on Drugs – running them out of money by buying ladders 
for half price LOL!
Speaking of that- Coquina sounds almost EXACTLY like the Spanish pronunciation 
of cocaine, which resulted in a 500 foot freighter following us around begging 
for us to please come get our cargo. Having that huge steel thing follow us at 
6 knots like a giant dinghy was unnerving to say the least and the captain did 
not know enough English to understand “WRONG BOAT GO AWAY”. A fake conversation 
with the Coast Guard finally got rid of them.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

Joe;

I have a friend who has an EBay store, and we have talked about this seller a 
couple of times.

Five Oceans and Victoria are brand names on stainless hardware and boat 
equipment made in China. By and large it is good quality stuff, and very 
reasonably priced. I have a goodly number of hardware pieces and a couple of 
lights which I sourced from my friend.

My friend, and a couple of the other online sellers have talked about this 
seller in Florida. Their take is that he is either getting one heck of a volume 
discount or he is laundering drug money. For example, he also has listed a 
combination tri-color and anchor light for the top of the mast at $39. The 
suggested list is $89 (compared to over $200 for an Hella or Aqua Signal), and 
$39 is about $2 over my buddies cost.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:01 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe >
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

I ordered one. There are 3 left now.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

Joe,
That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" >
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how 
long?
Thanks,
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

This is more for emergency use than daily swimming. It is a PITA to get in on 
the stern and climb over the rail and get around the various things back there.
One of my dogs managed to fall overboard and she hates to swim. She was 
swimming around barking and my wife ended up falling in trying to help her. So 
I am in the head trying to read my Practical Sailor and I have two quite irate 
girls in the water ☹
So it turns out that my wife cannot climb in the dinghy like I do and it took 
some time to dig out the ladder I hadn’t used in years and rig it. She decided 
she wants a ladder like she sees on the other boats, and we all know a captain 
is below an admiral ;)
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

8 inches is quite narrow, particularly if the boat is rocking side to side.  A 
close friend picked up some nice bruises using a similar set up.

Allen
Septima

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:01 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

I ordered one. There are 3 left now.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

Joe,
That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" >
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joe;

 

I have a friend who has an EBay store, and we have talked about this seller a 
couple of times.

 

Five Oceans and Victoria are brand names on stainless hardware and boat 
equipment made in China. By and large it is good quality stuff, and very 
reasonably priced. I have a goodly number of hardware pieces and a couple of 
lights which I sourced from my friend.

 

My friend, and a couple of the other online sellers have talked about this 
seller in Florida. Their take is that he is either getting one heck of a volume 
discount or he is laundering drug money. For example, he also has listed a 
combination tri-color and anchor light for the top of the mast at $39. The 
suggested list is $89 (compared to over $200 for an Hella or Aqua Signal), and 
$39 is about $2 over my buddies cost.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:01 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

I ordered one. There are 3 left now.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

Joe,

That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  " 
 >
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn
 

 =mtr

 

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?

Joe

Coquina

 

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[allen via CnC-List]

8 inches is quite narrow, particularly if the boat is rocking side to side.  A 
close friend picked up some nice bruises using a similar set up.

Allen
Septima


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:01 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder


I ordered one. There are 3 left now.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

Joe,

That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 




From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

 

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?

Joe

Coquina

 

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 






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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

And I should add, I'm quite certain the boat was completely dry at the time 
when I weighed it. It had been out of the water for ~1.5 years at weighing 
time. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "randy stafford" , "Michael Brown" 
 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:39:04 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors) 

Yes, the 8700 pounds includes mast, boom, spin pole, reaching strut, standing 
rigging, deck hardware, etc. My boat has two pairs of primary winches (big 
Barients) at the cockpit coamings, so the extra pair probably accounts for ~75 
pounds. 

My primary anchor and rode weigh 34 pounds; my secondary 28 pounds. So to be 
precise, the boat weighs 8716 pounds with empty tanks and nothing aboard but 
the primary anchor and rode. 

>From a PHRF perspective I'll speak with my US Sailing Regional Association 
>PHRF Chairman about what he expects to be included in the displacement used 
>for a boat's PHRF rating. He gave my boat a rating of 186, which surprised me. 
>I was expecting 174 based on what other clubs have given a 30-1, according to 
>http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf.
> Maybe when I tell him my boat's displacement is at least 700 pounds heavier 
>than what he used, my 186 rating will be justified :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Michael Brown"  
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:04:33 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors) 


> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude that 
> my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty tanks. 

Thanks Randy. 

I guess that is what the 30-1 weighs. 

I remember some spec a while back that claimed 7900 lbs, which is what PHRF-LO 
has. 
Empty and stripped out, no mast or sails and from what I can tell no wet spots 
Windburn 
is 8500 lbs. Did your weight include the mast ( maybe around 200 lbs )? 

Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C 30-1 


Launching in five days, and watching wet snow coming down this morning. 




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Re: Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Extremely cool!!  Thanks for sharing.

Brian
'80 LF38
On Apr 25, 2016 11:42 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is something  Interesting!  She looks fast!
>
>
> http://www.townandcountrymag.com/leisure/sporting/news/a3650/gehry-yacht-foggy/
>
> Danny
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Changing list settings

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

And you should be aware the “Digest Mode” won’t help reduce the time you take 
to read the emails. At least that was my experience.

 

Sure, you get only 1 list email a day. But every email contains repeat after 
repeat of the messages you already read, because many of us forget to trim the 
old messages when responding. 

 

Marek’s suggestion about setting up a rule to put the emails into a separate 
folder is a good idea. Then you can just delete conversations that are of no 
interest to you. (Hey, I read every list message, but someone else may not find 
the list so engaging.)

 

Personally, I delete all the personal messages off my phone every couple of 
days. My phone settings are to never delete from the Outlook inbox it is synced 
with. They are still in the inbox on Outlook on my laptop, and I usually read 
them there. 

 

I have a separate Gmail account (and a separate Gmail icon on the phone) for 
the schooner of which I am Master, and I only delete mail from that inbox using 
the laptop. I haven’t figured out yet how to keep the phone from deleting 
messages from the Gmail inbox, and I don’t want to inadvertently lose any 
business messages.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Changing list settings

 

Create a rule (in whatever you use to read your emails or, better yet, in Gmail 
itself) to deliver all messages from the “C List” to a dedicated folder. Then 
delete everything from that folder after reading messages that you are 
interested in (most of them??).

 

To change to Digest mode, visit http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ and select 
“Subscribe” in the right margin (under Email Discussion List)

 

Good luck

 

Marek

 

 

From: Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List   

Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 09:06

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Justin Drößler-Kreuser   

Subject: Stus-List Changing list settings

 

Now that my phone is completely overloaded with list emails, how do I go about 
getting rid of them all and changing it to the setting so I only get my mails 
plus a daily compilation ? Thanks

 

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Stus-List Frank Gehry - German Frers designed sailboat

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

This is something  Interesting!  She looks fast!

http://www.townandcountrymag.com/leisure/sporting/news/a3650/gehry-yacht-foggy/

Danny


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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Yes, the 8700 pounds includes mast, boom, spin pole, reaching strut, standing 
rigging, deck hardware, etc. My boat has two pairs of primary winches (big 
Barients) at the cockpit coamings, so the extra pair probably accounts for ~75 
pounds. 

My primary anchor and rode weigh 34 pounds; my secondary 28 pounds. So to be 
precise, the boat weighs 8716 pounds with empty tanks and nothing aboard but 
the primary anchor and rode. 

>From a PHRF perspective I'll speak with my US Sailing Regional Association 
>PHRF Chairman about what he expects to be included in the displacement used 
>for a boat's PHRF rating. He gave my boat a rating of 186, which surprised me. 
>I was expecting 174 based on what other clubs have given a 30-1, according to 
>http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf.
> Maybe when I tell him my boat's displacement is at least 700 pounds heavier 
>than what he used, my 186 rating will be justified :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brown via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Michael Brown"  
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:04:33 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors) 


> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude that 
> my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty tanks. 

Thanks Randy. 

I guess that is what the 30-1 weighs. 

I remember some spec a while back that claimed 7900 lbs, which is what PHRF-LO 
has. 
Empty and stripped out, no mast or sails and from what I can tell no wet spots 
Windburn 
is 8500 lbs. Did your weight include the mast ( maybe around 200 lbs )? 

Michael Brown 
Windburn 
C 30-1 


Launching in five days, and watching wet snow coming down this morning. 




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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Rick, yes the black hose with the white tracer flecks.  Would I be 
able to use The Trident Barrier lined B1 
 
type fuel line on these?  I guess it depends on whether the fittings 
fit, right?  ID .25 inch and OD .43 inch


From what I can tell there are 2 lines of text on the Ferrule;

1/4 1/4 1/4
5-5-5-5-5

Danny



On 4/25/2016 10:55 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


Danny;

Are you talking about the black hose in the photo?

If you are, that hose has reusable fittings on it. They will simply 
unscrew off the hose and can be reinstalled in a new length of hose.


That said, it would be best to take the hose assembly off the engine 
and take it to a hose shop for replacement of the hose. There is a 
technique to getting the fittings installed properly, and you don’t 
want to screw it up. The fittings will have a manufacturers logo on 
them – on a Westerbeke engine it will probably be Parker, but might be 
Aeroquip. Go to an hydraulics shop the advertises that brand of hose. 
Replacing the fittings on a new length of hose might take only 15 or 
20 minutes.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, April 25, 2016 9:14 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Here's a closer look and you can see the 1/4 I'm talking about but,  I 
don't think I'll be reusing those...


https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!4158=!ANnfiOrhSAaKSvg=3=photo%2cjpg 



On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture
for all of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will
be forced to remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them
with?  How would they attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN? 
Flare? Compression?  Barb?  From the sounds of it most of us were

expecting that you simply had barb fittings and hose clamps.   As
your description is evolving is sounds like it may not be so cut
and dry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"
> wrote:

Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.


DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>

http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality
from many different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will
leak when old as the rubber dries out and very few actually
meet the marine fire resistance specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made
with what look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is
coveted in some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like
fabric. They are permeating pretty badly and making the whole
boat smell like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than
just swapping them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines
that meet the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas)
will work.
   

Re: Stus-List Ping Wally

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Shh… he’s in Tequilaville.  Don’t wake him…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 25, 2016, at 10:24 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Wally, where've you been? It's hard to live vicariously through you when 
> you don't post to the list!
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

That’s right, these are reusable fittings. You might be able to take them
apart with a pair of Crescent wrenches, though that might depend on how old
they are. As the inner tube of the hose ages, it will tend to bond to the
metal tube inserted into it.

 

But this is only ¼” ID hose so the force should not be that high.

 

BTW, the hose with fabric braid on the outside is fuel hose, not hydraulic.
Hydraulic hose usually  has rubber on the outside of the reinforcing braid
to protect the metal reinforcement from corrosion. There are exceptions –
e.g. aircraft hoses with stainless reinforcement braid, and those shiny fuel
hoses that make so many rice burners fast and furious. Since these are
basically suction hoses they are under no significant pressure (less than
about 50PSI is the standard for fuel hose IIRC, which is why you never see
hose downstream of your fuel injection pump).

 

The fittings are most likely 37 or 45 degree flare fittings. But if you will
be reusing the fittings, it really doesn’t matter which.

 

Remove the fitting by holding the wrench flats on the ferrule on the outside
of the hose, and unscrewing the fitting using the wrench flats next to the
end of the ferrule. Once it is out of the hose, you should be able to
unscrew the ferrule, by hand if you are lucky.

 

To reinstall on a new hose, screw the ferrule down until it bottoms on the
end of the hose (probably by hand). Don’t do it so hard that you
distort/compress the inner tube. Lube the ID of the hose with a little oil,
and the OD of the tapered tube in the fitting that will screw into the hose
(BTW, make sure you have cleaned the old rubber off the tube when removing
it). Then you hold the ferrule in place and screw the fitting into the
threads on the ID of the ferrule until it bottoms out. The tapered tube on
the fitting will compress the rubber and the reinforcing fabric into the
really course threads on the inside of the ferrule. The principal caution is
to make sure that the end of the tube inserted into the ID of the hose does
not cut into the ID of the rubber hose.

 

It’s really not rocket science. Once you’ve done it, you’ll be an expert.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

I think Rick has it.  I found something that looks identical on ebay.  Rick,
are these indeed, reusable?

They do seem to be as the only thing that gets compressed is the hose
between the ferrule and the insert fitting

Danny

 

On 4/25/2016 10:33 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

The SAE standards for hose generally call for the hose to be marked with the
ID of the hose – so 5/16 hose is nominally 5/16 ID. This is unlike tubing
and pipe, where 5/16 is 5/16 OD.

 

The exception is SAE type 5 hose (I think it is supposed to be marked with
the SAE standard 1005 on the layline of the hose). Type 5 hose is called
“tubing size” and the ID of the hose is the same as the ID of the same size
hydraulic tubing. So 5/16 type 5 hose is a bit under ¼” ID, and something
like 7/16” OD. It is hydraulic hose rated at 5000 PSI or so, and is not fuel
hose. Type 5 hose was originally created for use in aircraft during WWII,
because you would not want to carry around the weight of metal tubing and
the extra fluid contained in a larger ID hose – plus hose was a lot easier
to inventory and replace than metal tubes on military airplanes being
repaired around the world.

 

Fuel hose is basically type 1, IIRC, rated to something like 1000 PSI. Made
with an inner tube that is resistant to fuels and most solvents (though not
all). The reinforcement is made to allow the hose to be more flexible and
have shorter bend radius than hydraulic hoses. It also will work as suction
hose, which many types of hydraulic hose will not. 

 

Never use anything except fuel hose in fuel system applications.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

I didn’t stay in a Holiday Inn last night, about 30 years ago I was an
engineer for Aeroquip.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 10:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: cenel...@aol.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

 

A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between the OD
and ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on the outside
that the inside diameter (ID)

will match your fittings. 

 

Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number is often
not noted on the outside of the hose.

 

If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up by the
hose clamps (double always 

Stus-List Ping Wally

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hey Wally, where've you been? It's hard to live vicariously through you
when you don't post to the list!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I may just do that.  I still have to pull them all off and then figure 
out what I need.  Reusing what I have is simple in terms of fittings.  
Buying new fittings, especially marine grade barb fittings, is not all 
that easy.  I had a hell of a time finding what I needed when I added 
the fresh water cooling to my last boat.


So, thats why I'm thinking of reusing the existing stuff.  I don't have 
to spend days searching for fitting and finding the correct size and 
removing the fitting that is in place  blah blah blah...


Danny


On 4/25/2016 10:56 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Just be aware that AN fittings are frequently misused with JIC 
fittings.  One is a 37° flare and the other is 45°.  If I were you I 
would just do it with AA type 1 USCG approved fuel hose, barb 
fittings,  and hose clamps.  It is easy to fabricate and refabricate 
quickly and underway.  No special tools.  No special shops.  Custom 
length and orientation.


Josh

On Apr 25, 2016 10:46 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


I think Rick has it.  I found something that looks identical on
ebay.  Rick, are these indeed, reusable?

They do seem to be as the only thing that gets compressed is the
hose between the ferrule and the insert fitting

Danny


On 4/25/2016 10:33 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


The SAE standards for hose generally call for the hose to be
marked with the ID of the hose – so 5/16 hose is nominally 5/16
ID. This is unlike tubing and pipe, where 5/16 is 5/16 OD.

The exception is SAE type 5 hose (I think it is supposed to be
marked with the SAE standard 1005 on the layline of the hose).
Type 5 hose is called “tubing size” and the ID of the hose is the
same as the ID of the same size hydraulic tubing. So 5/16 type 5
hose is a bit under ¼” ID, and something like 7/16” OD. It is
hydraulic hose rated at 5000 PSI or so, and is not fuel hose.
Type 5 hose was originally created for use in aircraft during
WWII, because you would not want to carry around the weight of
metal tubing and the extra fluid contained in a larger ID hose –
plus hose was a lot easier to inventory and replace than metal
tubes on military airplanes being repaired around the world.

Fuel hose is basically type 1, IIRC, rated to something like 1000
PSI. Made with an inner tube that is resistant to fuels and most
solvents (though not all). The reinforcement is made to allow the
hose to be more flexible and have shorter bend radius than
hydraulic hoses. It also will work as suction hose, which many
types of hydraulic hose will not.

Never use anything except fuel hose in fuel system applications.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

I didn’t stay in a Holiday Inn last night, about 30 years ago I
was an engineer for Aeroquip.

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, April 24, 2016 10:44 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* cenel...@aol.com 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations
between the OD and ID so do not assume that if your hose is
marked 5/16" on the outside that the inside diameter (ID)

will match your fittings.

Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a
variety of IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but
this number is often not noted on the outside of the hose.

If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made
up by the hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a
thick-walled 5/16" hose may never go over a 1/4" barb fitting.

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com 



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

> Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude  that 
> my boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and  empty tanks.

Thanks Randy.

I guess that is what the 30-1 weighs.

I remember some spec a while back that claimed 7900 lbs, which is what PHRF-LO 
has.
Empty and stripped out, no mast or sails and from what I can tell no wet spots 
Windburn
is 8500 lbs. Did your weight include the mast ( maybe around 200 lbs )?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Launching in five days, and watching wet snow coming down this morning.




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Stus-List Sliding hatch details

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie, 

Mine is probably un-molested.. I'm not sure what you mean by "Multiple 
Wire Runs"  Where are your instruments mounted? 

Anyway, although crazed to the point of needing replacement (Low priority 
"todo") ,  mine does not leak (I do have a dodger above it)  if I recall 
correctly it slides on stainless guides. I can take a picture of it when I 
go racing on Wed nite :-) 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 19:55:27 -0400
From: Charles Nelson 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sliding hatch details
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

It appears that my sliding hatch is leaking--water drips from if when it 
rains, etc. After 21 years and multiple wire runs for instruments, etc., 
etc.  I no longer remember how this hatch was in its original, non-leaking 
state. 
Currently it simply slides on 1 x 2" teak (?) boards which are mounted on 
the coach roof under the 'cover' of both the sliding and fixed hatch. 
Water is presumably to flow off both hatches thru limber holes in this 
cover to the coach roof. 
 Initially there may have been guides attached to the teak boards but 
these may have either disintegrated or been destroyed over the years per 
para above.
My question for the list, esp. 1990 and later C 36 XL, R or + models is 
does your sliding hatch have guides to keep the sliding plexi/lexan hatch 
'centered' on the teak boards and/or is there something else that is part 
of the sliding hatch assembly that prevents water ingress.

Thanks

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

Regards



François Rivard
 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt
Certified Level 3 IT Specialist Thought Leader

 Atlanta, 30327-3015 USA
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
 
Mobile:
770-639-0429
 

e-mail:
jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 

 
 


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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Just be aware that AN fittings are frequently misused with JIC fittings.
One is a 37° flare and the other is 45°.  If I were you I would just do it
with AA type 1 USCG approved fuel hose, barb fittings,  and hose clamps.
It is easy to fabricate and refabricate quickly and underway.  No special
tools.  No special shops.  Custom length and orientation.

Josh
On Apr 25, 2016 10:46 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I think Rick has it.  I found something that looks identical on ebay.
Rick, are these indeed, reusable?

They do seem to be as the only thing that gets compressed is the hose
between the ferrule and the insert fitting

Danny

On 4/25/2016 10:33 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

The SAE standards for hose generally call for the hose to be marked with
the ID of the hose – so 5/16 hose is nominally 5/16 ID. This is unlike
tubing and pipe, where 5/16 is 5/16 OD.



The exception is SAE type 5 hose (I think it is supposed to be marked with
the SAE standard 1005 on the layline of the hose). Type 5 hose is called
“tubing size” and the ID of the hose is the same as the ID of the same size
hydraulic tubing. So 5/16 type 5 hose is a bit under ¼” ID, and something
like 7/16” OD. It is hydraulic hose rated at 5000 PSI or so, and is not
fuel hose. Type 5 hose was originally created for use in aircraft during
WWII, because you would not want to carry around the weight of metal tubing
and the extra fluid contained in a larger ID hose – plus hose was a lot
easier to inventory and replace than metal tubes on military airplanes
being repaired around the world.



Fuel hose is basically type 1, IIRC, rated to something like 1000 PSI. Made
with an inner tube that is resistant to fuels and most solvents (though not
all). The reinforcement is made to allow the hose to be more flexible and
have shorter bend radius than hydraulic hoses. It also will work as suction
hose, which many types of hydraulic hose will not.



Never use anything except fuel hose in fuel system applications.





Rick Brass

Washington, NC

I didn’t stay in a Holiday Inn last night, about 30 years ago I was an
engineer for Aeroquip.







*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, April 24, 2016 10:44 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions





A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between the OD
and ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on the outside
that the inside diameter (ID)

will match your fittings.



Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number is often
not noted on the outside of the hose.



If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up by the
hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a thick-walled 5/16" hose may
never go over a 1/4" barb fitting.



Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com






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you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Danny;

 

Are you talking about the black hose in the photo?

 

If you are, that hose has reusable fittings on it. They will simply unscrew
off the hose and can be reinstalled in a new length of hose.

 

That said, it would be best to take the hose assembly off the engine and
take it to a hose shop for replacement of the hose. There is a technique to
getting the fittings installed properly, and you don't want to screw it up.
The fittings will have a manufacturers logo on them - on a Westerbeke engine
it will probably be Parker, but might be Aeroquip. Go to an hydraulics shop
the advertises that brand of hose. Replacing the fittings on a new length of
hose might take only 15 or 20 minutes.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

Here's a closer look and you can see the 1/4 I'm talking about but,  I don't
think I'll be reusing those...

 

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!4158

=!ANnfiOrhSAaKSvg=3=photo%2cjpg

 

On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for all of
us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced to remove
the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How would they attach
to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  Compression?  Barb?  From the
sounds of it most of us were expecting that you simply had barb fittings and
hose clamps.   As your description is evolving is sounds like it may not be
so cut and dry. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.


DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
 > wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>
http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose
.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many
different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the rubber
dries out and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance
specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>  
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via
CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>  
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what
look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of
sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly
and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>  
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping
them out. Some bleeding?
>
>  
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying
size.
>
>  
>
> Danny
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>  
>
> Danny,
>
> If we're talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the
marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don't use fittings, although I have seen some
premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be
useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 ] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via
CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!






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This list is supported by the generous 

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I think Rick has it.  I found something that looks identical on ebay.  
Rick, are these indeed, reusable?


They do seem to be as the only thing that gets compressed is the hose 
between the ferrule and the insert fitting


Danny


On 4/25/2016 10:33 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


The SAE standards for hose generally call for the hose to be marked 
with the ID of the hose – so 5/16 hose is nominally 5/16 ID. This is 
unlike tubing and pipe, where 5/16 is 5/16 OD.


The exception is SAE type 5 hose (I think it is supposed to be marked 
with the SAE standard 1005 on the layline of the hose). Type 5 hose is 
called “tubing size” and the ID of the hose is the same as the ID of 
the same size hydraulic tubing. So 5/16 type 5 hose is a bit under ¼” 
ID, and something like 7/16” OD. It is hydraulic hose rated at 5000 
PSI or so, and is not fuel hose. Type 5 hose was originally created 
for use in aircraft during WWII, because you would not want to carry 
around the weight of metal tubing and the extra fluid contained in a 
larger ID hose – plus hose was a lot easier to inventory and replace 
than metal tubes on military airplanes being repaired around the world.


Fuel hose is basically type 1, IIRC, rated to something like 1000 PSI. 
Made with an inner tube that is resistant to fuels and most solvents 
(though not all). The reinforcement is made to allow the hose to be 
more flexible and have shorter bend radius than hydraulic hoses. It 
also will work as suction hose, which many types of hydraulic hose 
will not.


Never use anything except fuel hose in fuel system applications.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

I didn’t stay in a Holiday Inn last night, about 30 years ago I was an 
engineer for Aeroquip.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Charlie Nelson via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, April 24, 2016 10:44 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between 
the OD and ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on 
the outside that the inside diameter (ID)


will match your fittings.

Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of 
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number 
is often not noted on the outside of the hose.


If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up 
by the hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a thick-walled 5/16" 
hose may never go over a 1/4" barb fitting.


Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joe is right that fire resistant hose might be advisable - particularly if you 
have an A4. 

But for diesel applications, just take your fuel hose to your local NAPA store. 
They can supply hose and most any flare fitting you need (though they might 
have problem with the Banjo fittings used on some European engines). I doubt 
that a store like Auto Zone would be as likely to supply materials instead of 
ready made fuel lines.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:46 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

I am sure you could take the hose to your local hydraulic hose shop or hardware 
store and figure out what the fittings are. There are only so many kinds of 
flare fittings.
Don't get too hung up on the hose - I assume you need new hoses. What you need 
to know is what kind of fittings your new hose will need. You don't have to get 
the exact same kind of hose.
I think if you poke around here - 
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-221fr-type-a1-blue-steel-braid-fuel-hose
 - you can find what you need.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Marek

I do believe that it is illegal to remove certain items that area  part of a 
boat when racing.  Removing an anchor is not illegal so long as there is still 
one aboard.  I believe that was what was implied.  Many of us carry two anchors 
aboard

Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 12:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

I think that removing an anchor is a bit of cheating (as the boat is no longer 
seaworthy).

I know people do that, but it does not make it right.

I don’t race anymore

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2016 23:40
To: cnc-list >
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re: Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

Now that I've launched my boat and weighed my trailer empty, I conclude that my 
boat weighs ~8700 pounds with absolutely nothing aboard and empty tanks.  Put 
onboard her sail inventory, ground tackle, sheets & dock lines, gas grill, 
motor oil etc., full tank of gas, and she jumps to 9200.  I don't know how C 
computed the 8000 pounds in the brochure for a 30-1.

Cheers,
Randy


From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
>
To: "cnc-list" >
Cc: "randy stafford" 
>
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:38:38 PM
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Displacement (was Re:  Early 30-1 Interior Doors)

Thanks for the displacement data Michael.

I have HIN 30007972 - hull #7 laid up in September 1972 if I'm decoding 
correctly.

She has tiller steering and the Atomic-4 gasoline engine, rigged for spinnaker 
(pole chocked on deck) and roller-furling boom.  Two batteries, two sets of 
primary winches, two danforth anchors with chain / rope rode, fairly extensive 
sail inventory. Everything else is basic and standard, or very lightweight 
optional stuff.  For racing I can remove an anchor and many of the sails, and 
sail with empty tanks, etc.

I'll report back to the list after I've calculated her weight from truck scale 
differences between loaded & unloaded trailer.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The SAE standards for hose generally call for the hose to be marked with the ID 
of the hose – so 5/16 hose is nominally 5/16 ID. This is unlike tubing and 
pipe, where 5/16 is 5/16 OD.

 

The exception is SAE type 5 hose (I think it is supposed to be marked with the 
SAE standard 1005 on the layline of the hose). Type 5 hose is called “tubing 
size” and the ID of the hose is the same as the ID of the same size hydraulic 
tubing. So 5/16 type 5 hose is a bit under ¼” ID, and something like 7/16” OD. 
It is hydraulic hose rated at 5000 PSI or so, and is not fuel hose. Type 5 hose 
was originally created for use in aircraft during WWII, because you would not 
want to carry around the weight of metal tubing and the extra fluid contained 
in a larger ID hose – plus hose was a lot easier to inventory and replace than 
metal tubes on military airplanes being repaired around the world.

 

Fuel hose is basically type 1, IIRC, rated to something like 1000 PSI. Made 
with an inner tube that is resistant to fuels and most solvents (though not 
all). The reinforcement is made to allow the hose to be more flexible and have 
shorter bend radius than hydraulic hoses. It also will work as suction hose, 
which many types of hydraulic hose will not. 

 

Never use anything except fuel hose in fuel system applications.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

I didn’t stay in a Holiday Inn last night, about 30 years ago I was an engineer 
for Aeroquip.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 10:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

 

 

A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between the OD and 
ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on the outside that the 
inside diameter (ID)

will match your fittings. 

 

Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of 
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number is often not 
noted on the outside of the hose.

 

If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up by the 
hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a thick-walled 5/16" hose may never 
go over a 1/4" barb fitting.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com  

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

It seems they are re-usable hydraulic hose fittings.  They look pretty 
simple but,  I think I need a vice to do it easily.  On the boat might 
be a struggle.




On 4/25/2016 9:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:


Oh here is a photo of the back of the engine and it shows a fuel line 
connecting to the back.



https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!3991=!AHRKBZa42-JaHsE=3=photo%2cJPG


On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for 
all of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be 
forced to remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them 
with?  How would they attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  
Compression?  Barb?  From the sounds of it most of us were expecting 
that you simply had barb fittings and hose clamps.   As your 
description is evolving is sounds like it may not be so cut and dry.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>

http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from
many different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when
old as the rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine
fire resistance specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made
with what look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is
coveted in some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric.
They are permeating pretty badly and making the whole boat smell
like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just
swapping them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that
meet the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen
some premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More
information would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose
and fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is 

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That's a pretty standard hydraulic hose with an "AN" or "compression"
fitting.  The brass is almost certainly a hardware store compression
fitting and the steel swivel part on the hose should be a complimentary
compression fitting but may incorrectly be an AN fitting.  Either way you
can replace them with a brass barb fitting and hose clamps and new fuel
hose.  Or take the old hose to a hydraulic shop to have it re made.  You
CANNOT reuse steel part on the hose.  It has been crimped and is now done.

The auto stores have DIY AN fittings that come in blue and red anodized
finishes.  You see all the 16 year olds with their mom's prelude who think
the fittings make it go faster and more furious.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 25, 2016 9:16 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Here's a closer look and you can see the 1/4 I'm talking about but,  I
> don't think I'll be reusing those...
>
>
>
> https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!4158=!ANnfiOrhSAaKSvg=3=photo%2cjpg
>
> On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for all
> of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced to
> remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How would they
> attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  Compression?  Barb?  From
> the sounds of it most of us were expecting that you simply had barb
> fittings and hose clamps.   As your description is evolving is sounds like
> it may not be so cut and dry.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Joe,
> No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.
>
> DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
> >
> >
> http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
> >
> > These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many
> different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the
> rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance
> specifications.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > Coquina
> >
> > C 35 MK I
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Danny Haughey
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what
> look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of
> sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly
> and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping
> them out. Some bleeding?
> >
> >
> >
> > I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying
> size.
> >
> >
> >
> > Danny
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> >
> >  Original message 
> >
> > From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
> >
> > Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
> >
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> > Cc: Jake Brodersen
> >
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
> >
> >
> >
> > Danny,
> >
> > If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the
> marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
> >
> > Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some
> premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be
> useful.
> >
> > Jake
> >
> > Jake Brodersen
> >
> > C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> >
> > Hampton VA
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Danny Haughey
> > Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
> >
> > Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
> fittings so I can cut to length?
> >
> > What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
> >
> > Danny
> >
> > Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous 

Re: Stus-List Changing list settings

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Create a rule (in whatever you use to read your emails or, better yet, in Gmail 
itself) to deliver all messages from the “C List” to a dedicated folder. Then 
delete everything from that folder after reading messages that you are 
interested in (most of them??).

To change to Digest mode, visit http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ and select 
“Subscribe” in the right margin (under Email Discussion List)

Good luck

Marek


From: Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 09:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Justin Drößler-Kreuser 
Subject: Stus-List Changing list settings

Now that my phone is completely overloaded with list emails, how do I go about 
getting rid of them all and changing it to the setting so I only get my mails 
plus a daily compilation ? Thanks

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Correct – burping is not needed with the vent.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 09:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I think that burping is no longer required since there is a vent in the PSS (??)

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I have had the PSS shaft seal since about 1987 or so. I am on my second one, 
when I had a bent shaft replaced a few years ago the yard swapped it out for a 
new one. The original had started to leak after 20+ years.
I have been happy with it so far. The only maintenance it needs has been 
burping the air out after scuba diving under the boat and making sure the hose 
is adjusted right after an engine replacement.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

Patrick,

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38


I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I 
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes.

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged.

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I 
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't 
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same 
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously.

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing 
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts 
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference.

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats:

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I 
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should 
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10 
years.
- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly. 
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters 

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

I think that burping is no longer required since there is a vent in the PSS (??)

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I have had the PSS shaft seal since about 1987 or so. I am on my second one, 
when I had a bent shaft replaced a few years ago the yard swapped it out for a 
new one. The original had started to leak after 20+ years.
I have been happy with it so far. The only maintenance it needs has been 
burping the air out after scuba diving under the boat and making sure the hose 
is adjusted right after an engine replacement. 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

 

Patrick,

 

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

 

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

 

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

 

Marek Dziedzic

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52

To: C List 

Cc: Josh Muckley 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

 

I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I 
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes. 

 

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged. 

 

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I 
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't 
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 

 

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same 
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously. 

 

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing 
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts 
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference. 

 

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats: 

 

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I 
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should 
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10 
years. 

- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

 

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly. 
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an engine, and has 
it been a good decision?

 

-Patrick

1984 C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

 

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 

Re: Stus-List Changing list settings

[Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List]

Oh, and sorry, I'm not sure how his chain of mails got attached to my new
post.. May I assume the reason for it being all emails and not on forum
server software is because some in far away places like to modem in via SSB
? Was wondering that too.
On Apr 25, 2016 09:05, "Justin Drößler-Kreuser" 
wrote:

Now that my phone is completely overloaded with list emails, how do I go
about getting rid of them all and changing it to the setting so I only get
my mails plus a daily compilation ? Thanks
On Apr 25, 2016 08:36, "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I chose to replace the packing box on my C with a new Buck Algonquin
conventional packing after 2 catastrophic failures of drip less packing
glands in boats at my marina in a single month. One sank, and the other
made it to the travel lift in time. Both power boats. I admit that I know
little about the PSS product, but after witnessing that, I didn't even
consider one of them. I concluded that the conventional system was a safer
bet for me.

I don't know what happens when they go wrong, but they have some sort of
failure mode that suddenly lets in an awful lot of water.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Patrick Davin via CnC-List  wrote:
Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them being extra conservative.

Part of my worry about installing a more complex shaft seal arose from a
local PNW blog report I read last year:
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/excitement-at-sea.html
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/hauling-out-in-juneau.html

They suspected their PSS shaft seal of overheating. But they're a motor
boat (so faster speeds), and in the end (in the 2nd post) they found the
issue might have actually been an engine misalignment. I see Martin
actually commented on the 1st one, about needing to burp the seal
sometimes. If that's the only complication I need to know, then I'm happy
with that.

-Patrick

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:49 PM,  wrote:

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Patrick Davin 
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:42:39 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
> I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never
> go back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and
it
> looked like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink
this!
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Here's a closer look and you can see the 1/4 I'm talking about but,  I 
don't think I'll be reusing those...



https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!4158=!ANnfiOrhSAaKSvg=3=photo%2cjpg


On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for 
all of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced 
to remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How 
would they attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  
Compression?  Barb?  From the sounds of it most of us were expecting 
that you simply had barb fittings and hose clamps.   As your 
description is evolving is sounds like it may not be so cut and dry.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>

http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from
many different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when
old as the rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine
fire resistance specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made
with what look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted
in some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are
permeating pretty badly and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just
swapping them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that
meet the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen
some premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information
would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose
and fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Oh here is a photo of the back of the engine and it shows a fuel line 
connecting to the back.



https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CCBEFDFB44F8315F!3991=!AHRKBZa42-JaHsE=3=photo%2cJPG


On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for 
all of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced 
to remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How 
would they attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  
Compression?  Barb?  From the sounds of it most of us were expecting 
that you simply had barb fittings and hose clamps.   As your 
description is evolving is sounds like it may not be so cut and dry.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>

http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from
many different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when
old as the rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine
fire resistance specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made
with what look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted
in some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are
permeating pretty badly and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just
swapping them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that
meet the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen
some premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information
would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose
and fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I know... I'm kicking myself for not taking a picture.  I basically can 
only work with one hand most of the time because I'm always taking lots 
and lots of photos, but not this...  I got all happy when I saw the 1/4 
inch, wrote that down and moved on to something else (scrubbing the 
bilge!).  I'll get a photo next time I'm down.  my guess is that the 
lines are from the factory.



On 4/25/2016 7:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for 
all of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced 
to remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How 
would they attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  
Compression?  Barb?  From the sounds of it most of us were expecting 
that you simply had barb fittings and hose clamps.   As your 
description is evolving is sounds like it may not be so cut and dry.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>

http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from
many different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when
old as the rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine
fire resistance specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made
with what look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted
in some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are
permeating pretty badly and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just
swapping them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that
meet the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen
some premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information
would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey
via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose
and fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Stus-List Changing list settings

[Justin Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List]

Now that my phone is completely overloaded with list emails, how do I go
about getting rid of them all and changing it to the setting so I only get
my mails plus a daily compilation ? Thanks
On Apr 25, 2016 08:36, "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I chose to replace the packing box on my C with a new Buck Algonquin
conventional packing after 2 catastrophic failures of drip less packing
glands in boats at my marina in a single month. One sank, and the other
made it to the travel lift in time. Both power boats. I admit that I know
little about the PSS product, but after witnessing that, I didn't even
consider one of them. I concluded that the conventional system was a safer
bet for me.

I don't know what happens when they go wrong, but they have some sort of
failure mode that suddenly lets in an awful lot of water.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Patrick Davin via CnC-List  wrote:
Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them being extra conservative.

Part of my worry about installing a more complex shaft seal arose from a
local PNW blog report I read last year:
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/excitement-at-sea.html
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/hauling-out-in-juneau.html

They suspected their PSS shaft seal of overheating. But they're a motor
boat (so faster speeds), and in the end (in the 2nd post) they found the
issue might have actually been an engine misalignment. I see Martin
actually commented on the 1st one, about needing to burp the seal
sometimes. If that's the only complication I need to know, then I'm happy
with that.

-Patrick

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:49 PM,  wrote:

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Patrick Davin 
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:42:39 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
> I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never
> go back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and
it
> looked like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink
this!
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I ordered one. There are 3 left now.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:35
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

Joe,
That's a great price on a ladder.  The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks.  The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be 
added to help that.  I'm interested too.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" >
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!

___

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greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I chose to replace the packing box on my C with a new Buck Algonquin 
conventional packing after 2 catastrophic failures of drip less packing glands 
in boats at my marina in a single month. One sank, and the other made it to the 
travel lift in time. Both power boats. I admit that I know little about the PSS 
product, but after witnessing that, I didn't even consider one of them. I 
concluded that the conventional system was a safer bet for me. 

I don't know what happens when they go wrong, but they have some sort of 
failure mode that suddenly lets in an awful lot of water. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL


 Patrick Davin via CnC-List  wrote: 
Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them being extra conservative.

Part of my worry about installing a more complex shaft seal arose from a
local PNW blog report I read last year:
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/excitement-at-sea.html
http://www.riveted-blog.com/2015/08/hauling-out-in-juneau.html

They suspected their PSS shaft seal of overheating. But they're a motor
boat (so faster speeds), and in the end (in the 2nd post) they found the
issue might have actually been an engine misalignment. I see Martin
actually commented on the 1st one, about needing to burp the seal
sometimes. If that's the only complication I need to know, then I'm happy
with that.

-Patrick

On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:49 PM,  wrote:

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Patrick Davin 
> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 14:42:39 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
> I've used a PSS shaft seal on my boat for the last 20 years and I'd never
> go back to a packing gland.  I changed mine out at the 10 year point and it
> looked like it had plenty of life left at that time.  Don't overthink this!
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boarding ladder

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Joe, 
That's a great price on a ladder. The pic shows a clip over the hinge that 
would prevent the bottom from swinging past straight, but I can't tell if it 
locks. The rungs may be uncomfortable at an angle, but something could be added 
to help that. I'm interested too. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:57:45 AM 
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder 



http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr
 



Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line? 

Joe 

Coquina 



PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here! 

___ 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Someone on the tartan list suggested that the fitting may be re-used if 
they are just barbed fittings with a crimped band.


I didn't really want to remove the old hose and leave the system open 
but, It does seem the right thing to do.  I think I may go with the 
Trident Barrier type hose.  I'll take one apart and measure the barbed 
fitting.


Hopefully I can reuse the fittings with hose clamps.  Then I can route 
the line any way I see fit!


Danny


On 4/24/2016 10:43 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Except perhaps for the injector pump to cylinder hoses (which are 
likely metal), any diesel fuel hose of the correct size will likely 
work fine.


A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between 
the OD and ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on 
the outside that the inside diameter (ID)

will match your fittings.

Depending on your hose source, a 5/16" OD hose could have a variety of 
IDs--some wall thicknesses are greater than others but this number 
is often not noted on the outside of the hose.


If the hose is going on barbed fittings, some to this can be made up 
by the hose clamps (double always IMHO). However, a thick-walled 5/16" 
hose may never go over a 1/4" barb fitting.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Sun, Apr 24, 2016 7:11 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Sounds like someone took the time to have hydraulic hoses  made for 
the purpose of carrying fuel.  Yes, some bleeding on the supply side 
will probably be needed.  The air tends to collect in the tops of filters.

Josh
On Apr 24, 2016 6:09 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Thanks for chiming in guys.  The lines currently are pre-made with
what look like flare fittings on the end.   The hose is coveted in
some kind of sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric.  They are
permeating pretty badly and making the whole boat smell like diesel.

I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just
swapping them out.  Some bleeding?

I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's
identifying size.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List >
Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Danny,
If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet
the marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen
some premade one that do use crimped on fittings.  More
information would be useful.
Jake
*Jake Brodersen*
*C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
*Hampton VA*
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Danny Haughey >
*Subject:* Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
Hi guys,
I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
 fittings so I can cut to length?
What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have had the PSS shaft seal since about 1987 or so. I am on my second one, 
when I had a bent shaft replaced a few years ago the yard swapped it out for a 
new one. The original had started to leak after 20+ years.
I have been happy with it so far. The only maintenance it needs has been 
burping the air out after scuba diving under the boat and making sure the hose 
is adjusted right after an engine replacement.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 08:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

Patrick,

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38


I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and I 
searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes.

My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged.

I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then I 
should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing doesn't 
need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.

I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the same 
as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded obviously.

Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style packing 
box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop shafts 
smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my preference.

PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats:

- replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. I 
don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which should 
last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if it's 10 
years.
- PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it regularly. 
Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an engine, and has 
it been a good decision?

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don’t have it.

I don’t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way – you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem. Though on another 
boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts and forward 
drive, and we had leaks. Mine came with the boat so it is at least 4 years old. 
I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options. At the boat show last year 
I saw a different option to the PSS. I was impressed with use of spring tension 
instead of bellows tension. I'll probably buy this product instead of the PSS 
when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out... and 
I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of alternate 
stuffing boxes. 


  My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the 
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive configuration) with 
only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I haven't found any wrench that 
fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3" C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I 
can't get enough leverage - even hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't 
budged. 

  I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend then 
I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless bearing 
doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box. 

  I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the 
same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded 
obviously. 

  Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style 
packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for prop 
shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my 
preference. 

  PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for two 
caveats: 

  - replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10 years. 
I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose which 
should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though, especially if 
it's 10 years. 
  - PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting the 
belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is going 
to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about leaks. I 
emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.

  I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it 
regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an 
engine, and has it been a good decision?

  -Patrick
  1984 C Landfall 38
  Seattle, WA




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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Removing Traveler Track C 29-1

[Sophia Weber via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I've removed the original traveler track on my 78 C 29 MK1.

Removing it is pretty simple in theory, except for a piece of wood trim
that is in the way. After removing the plastic cover from underneath, there
is a piece of wood attached to the wall blocking 9 of the 12 bolts, making
it very difficult to undo the nuts. Thanks to small hands and a tonne of
patience, I was able to remove them, but putting the next one on will be
challenging again.

Has anyone removed this piece of trim? Does it have  function? Is it
holding anything behind it? And how does one remove it without force? It
looks like there are four screw holes on the side of it (horizontal), but
because of the plastic mould around it, I can't reach those either and
can't even look to see what kind of screw it would be

Any insights would be appreciated,

Sophia

"Persistence"
1978 C 29-1
Toronto, ON
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Stus-List boarding ladder

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS – I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What type of fitting is crimped to the hose?  How about a picture for all
of us?  It sounds like when you remove the hose you will be forced to
remove the fittings too.  What would you replace them with?  How would they
attach to the hose?  Banjo?  NPT?  AN?  Flare?  Compression?  Barb?  From
the sounds of it most of us were expecting that you simply had barb
fittings and hose clamps.   As your description is evolving is sounds like
it may not be so cut and dry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 25, 2016 7:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
>
http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many
different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the
rubber dries out and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance
specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what
look like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of
sleeve that looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly
and making the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping
them out. Some bleeding?
>
>
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying
size.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the
marine spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some
premade one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be
useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and
fittings so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am sure you could take the hose to your local hydraulic hose shop or hardware 
store and figure out what the fittings are. There are only so many kinds of 
flare fittings.
Don't get too hung up on the hose - I assume you need new hoses. What you need 
to know is what kind of fittings your new hose will need. You don't have to get 
the exact same kind of hose.
I think if you poke around here - 
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-221fr-type-a1-blue-steel-braid-fuel-hose
 - you can find what you need.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 07:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
> http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many 
> different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the rubber 
> dries out and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance 
> specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
> �
>
> �
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> �
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what look 
> like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of sleeve 
> that looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly and making 
> the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
> �
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping them 
> out. Some bleeding?
>
> �
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying size.
>
> �
>
> Danny
>
> �
>
> �
>
> �
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> �
>
> Danny,
>
> If we�re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the marine 
> spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don�t use fittings, although I have seen some premade 
> one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III �Midnight Mistress�
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and fittings 
> so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,
No they're a metal band crimped over the fitting.

DannyOn Apr 25, 2016 6:25 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>
> Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
>
> http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
>
> These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many 
> different vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the rubber 
> dries out and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance 
> specifications.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>  
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>  
>
> Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what look 
> like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of sleeve 
> that looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly and making 
> the whole boat smell like diesel.
>
>  
>
> I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping them 
> out. Some bleeding?
>
>  
>
> I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying size.
>
>  
>
> Danny
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
>
> Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Jake Brodersen
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
>  
>
> Danny,
>
> If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the marine 
> spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
>
> Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some premade 
> one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be useful.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>
> Hampton VA
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
>
> Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and fittings 
> so I can cut to length?
>
> What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Do you have something like AeroQuip lines with AN fittings?
http://anfittingguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/aeroquip-startlite-hose.jpg
These hoses come in a hug variety of materials and quality from many different 
vendors. Many of the cheaper ones will leak when old as the rubber dries out 
and very few actually meet the marine fire resistance specifications.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 18:09
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Thanks for chiming in guys. The lines currently are pre-made with what look 
like flare fittings on the end. The hose is coveted in some kind of sleeve that 
looks and geeks like fabric. They are permeating pretty badly and making the 
whole boat smell like diesel.

I'm guessing there is more to replacing these houses than just swapping them 
out. Some bleeding?

I see that 1/4 is stamped on the fitting. I'm sure that's identifying size.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Date: 4/24/2016 4:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions

Danny,
If we’re talking about rubber fuel lines, yes, any lines that meet the marine 
spec for the fuel you use (diesel or gas) will work.
Most rubber fuel hoses don’t use fittings, although I have seen some premade 
one that do use crimped on fittings. More information would be useful.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 09:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List Diesel fuel lines questions
Hi guys,
I need to replace my 1/4 inch fuel supply and return lines.
Should I buy pre made fuel lines or could I just buy fuel hose and fittings so 
I can cut to length?
What word be a good source fir fuel lines?
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a PIY/PSS shaft seal and I have never had a problem.  Though on
another boat I saw the bellows become weak, add in the soft engine mounts
and forward drive, and we had leaks.  Mine  came with the boat so it is at
least 4 years old.  I keep an eye on it as well as replacement options.  At
the boat show last year I saw a different option to the PSS.  I was
impressed with use of spring tension instead of bellows tension.  I'll
probably buy this product instead of the PSS when it is time.

http://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 24, 2016 12:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out...
> and I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of
> alternate stuffing boxes.
>
> My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On
> the LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-drive
> configuration) with only 4-5" clearance to the sides for a wrench. I
> haven't found any wrench that fits yet. A prior owner recommended 3"
> C-clamps, and those work, sort of, but I can't get enough leverage - even
> hammering on it the seized locking nut hasn't budged.
>
> I'm starting to think that if I finish dropping the rudder this weekend
> then I should just pull the prop shaft (partially, because my cutless
> bearing doesn't need replacing) and get a new stuffing box.
>
> I know Wally swapped his out for a new Buck Algonquin nut style one - the
> same as the original but a slightly nicer newer model, and less corroded
> obviously.
>
> Unfortunately it looks like Buck Algonquin doesn't make the gland style
> packing box (with 4 bolts that are easily adjustable in tight spaces) for
> prop shafts smaller than 1 1/4" (ours is 1 1/8"). That design would be my
> preference.
>
> PSS dripless is about the same price though, and tempting... except for
> two caveats:
>
> - replacement schedule of the rubber belows is recommended at 6 to 10
> years. I don't like that the rubber looks less durable than the 5-ply hose
> which should last 20 years. I could accept this shortcoming though,
> especially if it's 10 years.
> - PSS warns against having oil, fuel or any petroleum products contacting
> the belows. LF38 stuffing box is below the engine's oil pan. Oil or fuel is
> going to drip on it at some point! Even if you're pretty meticulous about
> leaks. I emailed PSS about this but haven't heard back.
>
> I could build a baffle / catch tray of some sorts, and just check it
> regularly. Has anyone else installed one in tight quarters and/or below an
> engine, and has it been a good decision?
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!