Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Hang in there, Ken.

 

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 7:49 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

 

Loads of trees down all over town.  Lots of power poles snapped off too.  No 
damage to our house or to our boat.  We lost one smaller tree in our front 
yard, it uprooted, and lots of smaller limbs (and a few big ones) are down off 
our other trees.  Still no power on at home yet, not since Friday midnight.  No 
landline, internet or tv either.  Radio works...  The little Honda EU2200i 
generator is presently running our deep freezer, refrigerator, boiler & pumps, 
Annes’s sewing machine, and a few lights.  Glad I bought extra gas, we’re going 
to need it.  Something like 19,200 customers without power in town still, 
100,000 out across Nova Scotia.

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

N46°07.682’ W060°11.241’

kenhea...@gmail.com  

S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

  C&C 37/40 XL Salazar

 

 

On Mon, 26 Sept 2022 at 09:01, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Good to hear. It seems it was much worse further North (Cape Breton and NL).

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 6:21 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

 

OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and downed 
trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few hours here 
and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS still no 
electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and lineups at Tim 
Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator which allowed us to 
serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after the storm. 

 

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Dwight,

 

How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones are ok.

 

Marek

Ottawa ON 

 

 

Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts 

 

I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the nuts on 
your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound used was the 
problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build. 

 

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Leeward Rail mailto:leeward_r...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

 

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info. 

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor replacement

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Another annoying aspect of the new model is the space between the unit 
and mounting surface for a genny sheet to catch on.  If they get any taller 
I’ll need to put police tape around them.  Maybe they didn’t know the vents 
would be used on sailboats.

 

From: Dave S via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 7:02 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor replacement

 

Mine is a newer gen 3” model.  5 years old maybe, and I’d not buy another.  

 

  I’ve tried my best to upgrade/repair/modify WINDSTAR in ways that are top 
notch, robust and reliable, and this product definitely isn’t.   It still works 
but the slide-switch is intermittent - the cheapest junk available, so the unit 
can’t be relied on to work as intended.  I’m quite able to repair or modify it 
to improve this, but life is short.   When It fails outright I’ll give it away 
and replace with an offshore-quality passive vent.  (4”)

YMMV….

Dave.  33-2

Sent from my iPhone





On Sep 16, 2022, at 6:31 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 My Nicro Solar Vent on the front hatch came with the boat when I bought it 16 
years ago (2006)it still works fine...no idea actually how old it is...I 
replaced the rechargeable battery maybe 6 years agoit doesn't look as 
pretty as yours...mine has a white plastic frame.   Sooner or later the sun 
will deteriorate the frame but I will wait until that happens .

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-09-16 5:16 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

I wish somebody would make a bombproof solar day/night vent.  I get about 4-6 
years out of the Nicro day/night vents.  At $180 a pop that can add up. 

  

However, I don't replace them anymore.  If replacing the battery doesn't work, 
it's usually the motor.  I keep a spare with a replacement motor.  When one 
fails, I just swap the vents and replace the motor in the dead one to keep as 
the spare.

 

Anyway, the motor is under $10.  I just bought a two pack of them on Amazon for 
$9.  Search for RF-500TB DC hobby motor.  The voltage may vary from 3-10 VDC.  
The listed RPM can run up to 6000 but with the blade on, it's much less.  Its 
approximate dimensions are 32 mm (1.2 in) diameter x 19-20 mm (0.76 in) tall.

 

If you're handy with a soldering iron/gun, it's about a 20-30 minute job to 
replace the motor.  The trick is to pull the entire assembly out of the 
housing.  Makes soldering a lot easier. Here's a step by step procedure.

1.  Remove the three mounting screws and save the o-rings (Important!)
2.  Remove the rubber cover on the switch and then the switch retaining ring
3.  Remove the fan blade
4.  Remove the solar panel assembly.  There are pry slots opposite each 
other on the periphery
5.  Remove the tiny screw beside the switch that holds in the motor assembly
6.  Note the color of wires to the battery contacts.It would be smart 
to mark white and black on the housing by the +/- marks
7.  Using needle nose pliers, pull up and remove the battery contacts. 
8.  Remove the battery contact/switch/motor assembly
9.  Note the wiring and maybe draw a diagram for reference
10. Unsolder the motor wires and solder in the new motor
11. Put a couple wraps of duct tape around the body of the motor to keep it 
firmly in place.  The motor is a bit small.
12. Reassemble in reverse order

For reference, it's the Marinco Nicro model like this:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-koKUykESjorhZhwg6sZ2GS0MNYqUu5/view?usp=sharing

-- 

Dennis C. 

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

Stus-List Re: Rob Ball

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks for the report.  I communicated with Rob a few times via e-mail, but
did not get to meet him in person.  My loss.

 

From: Novabraid via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2022 9:37 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Rob Ball

 

List folks,

As you all have heard, Rob Ball is no longer with us.  I was very fortunate
to know Rob and his family quite well as he and I worked together at Edson,
we raced together on various C&C's and Etchells and shared numerous dinners
and glasses of wine over the past few decades. His family and ours are
intertwined in many ways.  I will miss his friendship more than words can
express.

At his memorial service at the New Bedford Yacht Club attended by hundreds
of friends and colleagues, his C&C 35 Mk 3 "Opus" was dressed with signal
flags and a Canadian Flag flying from the stern on the club's main dock.  It
is with a tinge of happiness that I tell you all that his boat will be
heading north to its new permanent home in Newcastle, Ontario now being
skippered by Rob's son Dayton.  We're not sure when that will happen, either
on a trailer, or by water, but Dayton and his 3 young boys will continue
Rob's legacy of sailing back in Rob's home waters of Lake Ontario.

 

I'm sure Rob would be happy with that knowledge.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Sounds eerily familiar.

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 11:16 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

 

Yea when I torqued the keel bolts on my 35mkII I used a 4 ft extension on the 
drive knowing I could pull about 100 pounds so i figured about 350-400 lbft of 
torque. Trickiest part was finding space to get one click on the 3/4 inch drive 
ratchet. I used an extension from the socket down in the bilge to the ratchet 
about 2 feet long to get above the settees and that worked to get 1 click with 
the 4 ft extension on the drive. A wobbly setup but I got the job done complete 
with new bedding and 3/8 inch stainless steel backing plates below the nuts. 
Then I did the famous C&C smile repair from the outside and solved that ugly 
issue.  

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Even a broken clock is correct twice a day.

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2022 10:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Jeffrey A. Laman

Subject: Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

 

David, 

Reefing the genoa on a furler is routine where I sail and race.  I reef my
main first, then reef my 135 second.  Typically when wind is about 15mph+ I
keep about 5 winds on the furler, making the headsail about 110.  My luff is
foam and will keep the sail shape decent up to about the 5 winds.  Another
boat has a UK sail with very large foam tubes that maintains shape pretty
well when furled.  After 5 winds, the shape gets bad fast on my foam luffed
genoa.  The genoa needs to be capable of being reefed, but I don't know of
anyone I sail with who has a head sail that isn't made to handle reefing.
Have a sail maker look at it if you aren't sure.  As for the furler line
"fighting" the sheets, not really.  Lock the furler in and done.  Sheet the
headsail as you normally would.  Challenge might be moving your cars
forward, then back again as you furl and unfurl.  Also, unfurling is easy.
Furling back on is not.  But, typically our races are to windward start,
then a reach, so start with furled, then let it go around the mark and
finish the race.  Not ideal, but it works better than being overpowered.  A
purist in the fleet scoffs at furlers and says, "You never have the right
sail with a furler." Yea, ok, but I sail solo a lot too, so that's where I
am.

 

Jeff Laman

81 C&C34

Harmony

Ludington, MI

  _  

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2022 10:25 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing 

 

Hi David

 

First I find it unusual to hear of a J27 with a furling genoa.  We had a J27
that came that way and it was the only one I knew of.  Our furling genoa was
awful to use when racing anyway so we would  ignore the furler and tack our
racing sails to the deck below the drum.  Eventually sold the luff foil,
furling system and the furling genoa and replaced with a tuff luff

 

J27 upwind if too windy for 150 should use a blade as it is much faster.
Downwind most 27s fly a spinnaker anyway.

 

On our 33 we will sometimes be overpowered upwind flying our non furling 140
or 155 genoas for the added boost downwind if racing non spin.  If it is too
windy for our 140 we drop to our 103%% head sail. 

 

Your genoa would have to be designed and built to sail partially furled for
it to have any sort of performance up wind.  I know some have foam in the
luff area for this.  Regardless I would think the loss of upwind performance
would be a pretty nasty price to pay for more horsepower down wind .

 

Those are my thoughts

 

Regards

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: September 12, 2022 11:12 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing

 

I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class
and he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.
He said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does
not have "reef points" .  What are the groups thoughts on the
value/feasibility of this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It
certainly would be easier than putting on my smaller sail when winds are
questionable.  I worry about not only sail shape, but when partially furled,
the furler and genoa sheet are fighting each other, which might not be a
good thing for the furler.  Dave

  

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[Matthew via CnC-List]

In my case, the genoa doesn’t look right or perform well partially unfurled.  
In addition, the forestay bends in a way I don’t like -- the force does not 
appear to be evenly distributed.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2022 10:12 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing

 

I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and 
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  He 
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does not 
have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the value/feasibility of 
this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It certainly would be easier 
than putting on my smaller sail when winds are questionable.  I worry about not 
only sail shape, but when partially furled, the furler and genoa sheet are 
fighting each other, which might not be a good thing for the furler.  Dave

  

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Stus-List Re: Eight Bells for Rob Ball

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Oh, no!  I just got back from the Wolford Trophy (named after my Dad), a
two-day series which I believe we won sailing our Custom 42.  I'm fairly
certain it was one of his designs.  Very sad news.

Matt Wolford
C&C 42 Custom

-Original Message-
From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2022 2:10 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randal Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Eight Bells for Rob Ball

Listers, I regret to report that Pat Mangan Ball posted end-of-watch 9/9/22
for Rob Ball, on the C&C Owners Facebook group 50 minutes ago.

Respectfully,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Sent from my iPhone=

Stus-List Re: Fwd: C&C 37

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Kevin.  If it’s handy, please forward.  Much appreciated.

 

From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 3:56 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Kevin Wright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fwd: C&C 37

 

Hey Matt,

If Stu doesn't have what you're looking for let me know, I made up some artwork 
last year in Illustrator (vector) I can send you.

Kevin


 

Kevin Wright

Raven

Landfall 43

Midland ON

kcwright...@gmail.com <mailto:kcwright...@gmail.com> 

 

 

 

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 2:36 PM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Stu:

 

Hope all is well.

 

My 42 Custom has the main traveler mounted over the 
companionway, much like my 34 did.  When C&C made boats with this type of 
arrangement, the deck has molded fiberglass housings on both sides of the 
companionway for mounting the traveler track.  I was using the outboard end of 
these fiberglass housings for my PA Fish and Boat Commission registration 
stickers, which fit very nicely.  Unfortunately, the PA boat police don’t like 
that location and demanded that the stickers be placed at the bow.  As a 
result, I’m thinking about ordering a couple stickers to place on the ends of 
the fiberglass housings with the C&C logo.  I’m going to adjust it to put “42 
Custom” underneath.  You don’t sell anything like that, do you?  Assuming you 
don’t, below is a similar logo you sent re: a C&C 37 awhile back, and attached 
is artwork that I copied from a lister’s e-mail.  The problem with the artwork 
is that it gets jagged edges when enlarged.  Do you have any logo artwork that 
stays intact when enlarged?

 

Please advise.  Thanks.

 

Matt  

 
<https://dl.airtable.com/.attachments/99435765c14508096f8a39194554552e/86880855/2022-04-0215.41.58.jpg>
 

 

Stus-List Re: Fwd: C&C 37

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Stu:

 

Hope all is well.

 

My 42 Custom has the main traveler mounted over the 
companionway, much like my 34 did.  When C&C made boats with this type of 
arrangement, the deck has molded fiberglass housings on both sides of the 
companionway for mounting the traveler track.  I was using the outboard end of 
these fiberglass housings for my PA Fish and Boat Commission registration 
stickers, which fit very nicely.  Unfortunately, the PA boat police don’t like 
that location and demanded that the stickers be placed at the bow.  As a 
result, I’m thinking about ordering a couple stickers to place on the ends of 
the fiberglass housings with the C&C logo.  I’m going to adjust it to put “42 
Custom” underneath.  You don’t sell anything like that, do you?  Assuming you 
don’t, below is a similar logo you sent re: a C&C 37 awhile back, and attached 
is artwork that I copied from a lister’s e-mail.  The problem with the artwork 
is that it gets jagged edges when enlarged.  Do you have any logo artwork that 
stays intact when enlarged?

 

Please advise.  Thanks.

 

Matt  

 

 

 

 

 



C&C logo.docx
Description: MS-Word 2007 document

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer.  I 
have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I know 
I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and looks like 
the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a company with a 
marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to install and clean 
periodically.

 

1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb In-Line 
Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI RV Camper 
Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial  

 & Scientific

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

 

Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far end 
of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it up.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie PA

 

On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm tomorrow, 
but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure limited version 
of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure limited version.  
The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support said to do this:

 

The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is too 
clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in size; the 
pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as one piece and 
the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check valve will 
usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a triangle with suction 
cups in each corner on one side and the other side theirs a rubber diaphragm in 
the center; that are machine press in(Take a picture of the check valve “Both 
Sides”). Take the check valve and place it in a bucket of warm water wait a 
couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; take the head where the 
suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and look inside. You will see 
a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge 
(Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up 
and slush it back and forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes 
(While Submerged). This should clear all the particles. Place the check valve 
back into the Head of the pump and put it back together. 90% of the time your 
pump will be back to normal.

 

Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.

Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I agree.  If a brand new pump came with a check valve problem, it seems to me 
Jabsco should replace the pump.  Does the pump have a warranty?  Are you going 
to void the warranty by opening the pump as Jabsco suggested?

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:17 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

 

It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm tomorrow, 
but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure limited version 
of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure limited version.  
The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support said to do this:

 

The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is too 
clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in size; the 
pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as one piece and 
the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check valve will 
usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a triangle with suction 
cups in each corner on one side and the other side theirs a rubber diaphragm in 
the center; that are machine press in(Take a picture of the check valve “Both 
Sides”). Take the check valve and place it in a bucket of warm water wait a 
couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; take the head where the 
suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and look inside. You will see 
a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge 
(Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up 
and slush it back and forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes 
(While Submerged). This should clear all the particles. Place the check valve 
back into the Head of the pump and put it back together. 90% of the time your 
pump will be back to normal.

 

Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.

Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C&C 30 Mark 1 ?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Good point.

-Original Message-
From: leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2022 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: leewardrail hotmail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C&C 30 Mark 1 ?

The problem with that trick is the wires are now a bundle and would need to be 
removed together if you wanted to add another wire or replace one of the 
existing ones. Best to do it right, like modern masts are done.

On 2022-08-19 10:00 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:
> Another trick I have seen for noise reduction is to zip tie the wires 
> together at various intervals with zip ties that are too long and going in 
> various directions.  The zip tie "tails" fend the wires off the inside of the 
> mast.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2022 9:18 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Leeward Rail ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C&C 30 Mark 1 ?
>
> FWIW, I believe the conduit size in our mast is 1" ID.  I pulled all new 
> 16gage wires in when I replaced the lights with LED style.
> Windex (2 wires)
> Tricolor (2 wires)
> Steaming/deck light combo (3 wires)
> VHF cable
> Removed the wind instrument cable because I have TickTick wireless.  Pulled 
> in a better VHF cable, which turned out thinner than the 1989 one.  There is 
> room for another cable for TV or WiFi booster or FLIR or something, but I 
> prefer to keep the rig light.
>
> Marinebeam.com has some reasonably priced fixtures.  I got their two 
> wire masttop Tricolor/anchor/strobe light.  
> https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-stro
> be/
>
> My only regret is I didn't pull in a pull string for future.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R
>
>
>
>> On 08/19/2022 8:32 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>
>>   
>> Vhf coax LMR400UF
>> Cell booster antenna with coax of some unknown size... Likely some 
>> other large low loss cable like LMR400 Steaming light Anchor light 
>> Decklight.
>>
>> One day may have wind instruments
>>
>> Bigger is easier when fishing wire.
>>
>> Why undersize it when it costs virtually the same and takes the same effort?
>>
>>
>> Aug. 19, 2022 7:14:47 a.m. Jeff Nelson via CnC-List :
>>
>>> I do not believe there are any obstructions.  That said 1.5 inches seems 
>>> pretty big for 5 - 7 wires...
>>> what all you got going on up there?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jeff Nelson
>>> Muir Caileag
>>> C&C 30 - 549
>>> Armdale Y.C.
>>>
>>> On 2022-08-18 14:17, leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List wrote:
>>>> Hello All,
>>>>
>>>> I am planning to install conduit in the mast of our 30 Mark 1.
>>>>
>>>> Unfortunately I am hours away from the boat, and need to buy the 
>>>> conduit
>>>>
>>>> Would 1.5" PVC Conduit fit ?  Would 1.5" run without obstruction all the 
>>>> way to the masthead, or is there something at the spreader that would get 
>>>> in the way ?
>>>>
>>>> I prefer 1 1/2"   1 1/4" is about the minimum I would want to use.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!

Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C&C 30 Mark 1 ?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Another trick I have seen for noise reduction is to zip tie the wires together 
at various intervals with zip ties that are too long and going in various 
directions.  The zip tie "tails" fend the wires off the inside of the mast.

-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2022 9:18 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Leeward Rail ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C&C 30 Mark 1 ?

FWIW, I believe the conduit size in our mast is 1" ID.  I pulled all new 16gage 
wires in when I replaced the lights with LED style.
Windex (2 wires)
Tricolor (2 wires)
Steaming/deck light combo (3 wires)
VHF cable
Removed the wind instrument cable because I have TickTick wireless.  Pulled in 
a better VHF cable, which turned out thinner than the 1989 one.  There is room 
for another cable for TV or WiFi booster or FLIR or something, but I prefer to 
keep the rig light. 

Marinebeam.com has some reasonably priced fixtures.  I got their two wire 
masttop Tricolor/anchor/strobe light.  
https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe/

My only regret is I didn't pull in a pull string for future.  

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R



> On 08/19/2022 8:32 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
>  
> Vhf coax LMR400UF
> Cell booster antenna with coax of some unknown size... Likely some 
> other large low loss cable like LMR400 Steaming light Anchor light 
> Decklight.
> 
> One day may have wind instruments
> 
> Bigger is easier when fishing wire.
> 
> Why undersize it when it costs virtually the same and takes the same effort?
> 
> 
> Aug. 19, 2022 7:14:47 a.m. Jeff Nelson via CnC-List :
> 
> > I do not believe there are any obstructions.  That said 1.5 inches seems 
> > pretty big for 5 - 7 wires...
> > what all you got going on up there?
> > 
> > --
> > Cheers,
> >Jeff Nelson
> >Muir Caileag
> >C&C 30 - 549
> >Armdale Y.C.
> > 
> > On 2022-08-18 14:17, leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List wrote:
> >> Hello All,
> >> 
> >> I am planning to install conduit in the mast of our 30 Mark 1.
> >> 
> >> Unfortunately I am hours away from the boat, and need to buy the 
> >> conduit
> >> 
> >> Would 1.5" PVC Conduit fit ?  Would 1.5" run without obstruction all the 
> >> way to the masthead, or is there something at the spreader that would get 
> >> in the way ?
> >> 
> >> I prefer 1 1/2"   1 1/4" is about the minimum I would want to use.
> >> 
> >> Thanks!

Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Looks great!

 

From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2022 3:01 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Bow Repair

 

Hello Everyone, 

 

I have paid my penance. I have read the Bible, taken plenty of cold showers and 
rough rags on my skin to rid my flesh of microscopic fiberglass remains. I 
finally finished the bow repair I shared with the list last summer. Much thanks 
for all the advice and encouragement, especially Charles Scheaffer. I learned 
quite a bit, bought a lot of tools, talked to some good folks at Young’s Boat 
Yard in Sparrows Point, MD. The owner Ant’s Dad, who did fiberglass work for 
decades  was around to oversee my work and share his expertise for a few weeks. 
When it was all said and done I laid up 21 layers of fiberglass, inside and 
out. I trust the repair is stronger than the original. Time will tell. The 
fairing isn’t the best. But the paint matched pretty well.



Brian C. Morrison

Stus-List Re: Tiller wobble

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I didn't know the 34 came with a tiller option.  My 1978 34 had a wheel, as
does every other 34 I've ever seen (about a half dozen or so).  Interesting.

 

Given that the wobble corresponds to RPMs, I would not guess it's a tiller
or rudder grease issue.  I'm no expert, but it sounds more like a prop shaft
strut or cutless bearing issue.  Did you by chance have a dock line sucked
into your prop before the vibration started?

 

Matt Wolford 

 

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2022 3:20 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Tiller wobble

 

My 1980 34 C&C has a tiller that wobbles excessively when running with
engine at 3,000 rpm.  A cursory inspection does not show any adjustment or
easy bearing replacement.  All bolts are tight. There is some slack, maybe
1/8" when testing the tiller by moving back and forth at the dock. Has
anyone else experienced this?  Is there a known easy solution short of
replacement?  Should I be concerned.  This seems to have gotten worse over
the years.

Korbey, SV Oz

 

Get Outlook for Android  

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Lots of black can be overheating.

 

From: Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2022 12:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

 

White is water or coolant

Blue is lube oil

Black is too much fuel or poor combustion

Joe 

Sent from my iPhone





On Jul 18, 2022, at 12:08, Neil Andersen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

White smoke is steam from overheating.  Blueish smoke is unburned fuel I was 
always told

 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800

  _  

From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2022 10:29:28 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Doug Mountjoy mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sea Foam 

 

Bill, the white smoke is in burned fuel. If it is only at idle when the engine 
is cool..I wouldn't worry about it. My yanmar smokes when cold. It is just the 
nature of the beast. I talked to a Yanmar mechanic and he said, as long as it 
is only when cold it ok. I was going to replace the injectors and high pressure 
pump. Until I heard that.  

 

Doug Mountjoy

C&C Landfall 39

Sabré 34

 

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022, 07:11 Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Wondering what you are trying to achieve, as I was just about to start a 
discussion on white smoke. I am thinking that has more to do with unburnt 
diesel. Was thinking about new injectors, but maybe I will try some of this 
Motor magic, and then do the injectors. It doesn't seem to be burning oil, as 
it is clean as a whistle, and not using any. 

I am already using FPPF 8+ Cetane Improver, and Lubricity Plus Fuel Power. And 
of course BioBor. 

If none of this works, I will try spraying water/Soap into the Turbo as the 
Manual suggests for carbon.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada Erie PA

 

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 1:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Every time. Also in the dinghy motor gas, mower gas, snowblower gas...




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

 

On Thu, 7 Jul 2022 at 05:59, Wade Glew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Does anyone put Sea Foam in their Diesel fuel? 

 

Wade Glew

Oh Boy, 33 MK II

Lake of the Woods

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Matthew via CnC-List]

As a follow-up, I have one on my boat and can take one or more measurements if 
you want.

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2022 2:33 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

 

As I recall, there is an Australian winch company (ARCO?) that has drawings 
with specs from the old Barient winches.  The company also sells parts, but 
there’s the whole international customs thing.  There may also be some info on 
the C&C website.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2022 2:23 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Barient 26 winch questions

 

Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35 MK I?

Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard can I 
still get more?

Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Matthew via CnC-List]

As I recall, there is an Australian winch company (ARCO?) that has drawings 
with specs from the old Barient winches.  The company also sells parts, but 
there’s the whole international customs thing.  There may also be some info on 
the C&C website.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2022 2:23 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Barient 26 winch questions

 

Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35 MK I?

Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard can I 
still get more?

Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

Stus-List Re: hydraulic ram backstay

[Matthew via CnC-List]

There was a guy in Erie who years ago cracked the hull of a Cal 40 using too 
much backstay.  He added aluminum ribs to the boat and kept cranking it up.

 

From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2022 10:18 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Re: hydraulic ram backstay

 

There a sailor that split his C&C 40 in half with hydraulic backstay

 

On Sun, Jul 3, 2022 at 10:14 AM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Stus-List Re: hydraulic ram backstay

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Ditto on Lew.  As a result of high recommendations from this list, I sent my 46 
year old hydraulic unit to Lew during the off-season.  I have no idea the last 
time it was rebuilt (if ever).  I had to construct a box for safe shipping, 
which was a bit of a chore (not too bad, though).  Shipping to Seattle was 
about $120 (each way), and I believe Lew charged $500 or $600 for the rebuild.  
Although he got off to a bit of a slow start, when he focused on my project he 
sent e-mail updates with questions and alternatives.  He was a bit disappointed 
that the rebuilt unit would not hold 3500 pounds for more than a day or two, 
but it will hold 2,000 for at least two weeks.  This was a perfectly fine 
result as I don’t go above 2500 (for racing), and usually keep about 500 on at 
the dock to take up slack.  Overall, my experience was very good.  I am no 
longer concerned about the hydraulic unit failing, and Lew was a pleasure to 
deal with. 

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom 

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2022 8:13 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: hydraulic ram backstay

 

Ditto.  I sent mine to a "Navtec Shop".  4 boat bucks and a couple years later 
it was leaking again.  I sent it to Lew.  Three years now and no leak.

 

Bottom line: send it to Lew - 100% chance of success.  Or send it to a local 
hydraulic shop or a "Navtec Shop" and take your chances.

 

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

IMHO, even though used boat values are currently low, the agreed upon value 
should be sufficient to replace the mast and related incidentals (boom, 
shrouds, any deck/hull damage) so the boat isn’t totaled in the event of a 
dismasting.  Although my boat’s in good condition with numerous upgrades, I 
don’t think I could get $50K for her.  Indeed, I paid less than that 10 years 
ago.

 

From: Brian Davis via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2022 10:28 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

 

I was unaware of this.  Really appreciate it.

 

On Tue, Jun 28, 2022 at 9:25 AM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Aside from premium increases, the problem with Geico policies – as this list 
exposed – is the annual reduction of part replacement cost for older boats 
until you hit the 20% floor.  As I understand the issue, if I lose my mast and 
the replacement is, say $30K, Geico will pay $6K.  That is totally unacceptable.

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FYI, I also have an 18 foot runabout insured with Progressive for about $200 
per year.

 

I did have a potential issue when I first switched the 42.  Based on my 
proposed agreed upon value of $50K, the application had to go to underwriting, 
and the broker said I may need a survey.  Underwriting then looked it over and 
decided a survey was unnecessary.  My broker opined that if my proposed value 
had been higher than $50K, the underwriter likely would have reached a 
different conclusion.

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2022 9:46 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Insurance... what is to much?

 

I keep waiting for Progressive to get revealed as a huge scheme.

I was paying $700/yr. to Geico (nee BoatUS) for ONE boat and now I have all 
three of my boats on Progressive with better coverage for $700/yr. They had no 
issue with quoting a C&C 41 and I think their website states they go up to 50 
feet or so. I am also about to switch my car insurance to them, same deal, 
better coverage for less money. Not that I would actually try it, but my Boston 
Whaler is insured to go 100 miles offshore from Maine to Florida and so is the 
dinghy. 

How do they do this? 

I also wonder about the insured value, on the form to sign up it is whatever 
you say it is. I wonder if it has some algorithm to flag wildly inappropriate 
values. I swear I was being careful, but my $150,000 dinghy got loose and 
vanished. Darn the luck!

 

 

Joe Della Barba  Coquina

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Aside from premium increases, the problem with Geico policies – as this list 
exposed – is the annual reduction of part replacement cost for older boats 
until you hit the 20% floor.  As I understand the issue, if I lose my mast and 
the replacement is, say $30K, Geico will pay $6K.  That is totally unacceptable.

 

From: Brian Davis via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2022 5:55 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Stus-List Insurance... what is to much?

 

I have an insurance question for my fellow C&C'ers. My wife and I bought Nina 
(1980 Landfall 38) 6 years ago for $25k. I've had Geico Marine ever since for 
an insured value of $30k with a vanishing deductible that is now zero. I have 
since restored her to about 95% and tracked all my receipts in a spreadsheet 
totalling $45k. We are very happy with the result and the only remaining 2 
projects are a dodger/bimini and replacing the side plexi windows. 

 

I inquired with Geico Marine about increasing the coverage from $30k to $70k. I 
would first need to pay for a surveyor to inspect and write a report (I don't 
know how much this is). Then my rate would go from $1,759 to $2,372 per year.

 

I know this is a sliding scale based on the condition of each boat, and I'm 
cool with the money I've put into her so far since we love her. Nearly all of 
it is parts cost only because I am a skilled craftsman. Is $70k to much 
insurance, and is $2,372 to much to pay for it?

 

Would appreciate any thoughts and advice.

 

Regards, 

Brian

Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FYI, I switched to Progressive about two years ago for my 42.  I went through 
an insurance broker and did not deal with Progressive directly.  Not a word 
about my boat being too long.

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2022 7:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance... what is to much?

 

Imzadi was insured with Progressive for 3 years. Then they would not renew the 
policy. They explained that their coverage standards were limited to boats 
under 35 feet. To which I took exception because they knew it was 38 feet when 
they wrote the insurance policy and renewed it during the 2 successive years.

 

Guess their software used for quoting new business has been improved.

 

Rick Brass

 Imzadi

C&C 38 #47

Washington, NC

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks 
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat’s interior to look less, 
well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom “stick” boat, so it does not have fiberglass 
liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs some TLC.  I 
thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the military look that 
I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh coat of white paint 
will suffice.  I’m thinking about Zinnser interior bathroom paint, which is 
marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Excellent advice.  Thanks.

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 2:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Whatever paint you choose, consider applying it with a mini foam roller.  I 
used a brush to paint Brightside on the interior of Touche's head door.  Left 
minor brush strokes.

 

On the other hand, I painted some doors in my house with a mini foam roller.  
The difference is noticeable.  The mini roller left a nice smooth finish.  
Looks like it was sprayed.

 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Matthew via CnC-List]

If it was federally documented, the Coast Guard may have a Bill of Sale record.

 

From: Dan via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 9:20 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

The broker I'm using is telling me there will be about $2k in some kind of 
import fee or something unless we can prove the boat was manufactured in the 
Rhode Island factory, OR was imported to the US already by a previous owner at 
some point, which it was, but I have no record of that on paper. The US 
registration office might have it.

 

Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida

 

 

 

On Fri, Jun 24, 2022, 9:39 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: June 23, 2022 7:39 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

 

I do know that import duties are only paid once

 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800


  _  


From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2022 5:54:26 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture 

 

Why would no duties be due? 

I thought if a Canadian boat is purchased in the USA by an American would they 
not have to pay an import tax or something?

 

Dan Cormier

C&C44 Breakaweigh

Halifax, NS / Florida

 

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 6:36 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

 

Marek 

 

 

 

Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture 

 

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for. 

 

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C&C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.

 

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C&C44 was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.

 

Does anyone know this information or can any other C&C44 owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?

 

 

On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.  

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com 

 
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Interior paint

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question about varnish (thanks
for your responses), the Admiral would like the boat's interior to look
less, well, tired.  Our boat is a Custom "stick" boat, so it does not have
fiberglass liners, headliners, and the like.  The interior ceiling needs
some TLC.  I thought about covering it with a vinyl fabric (to reduce the
military look that I personally like), but the Admiral thinks that a fresh
coat of white paint will suffice.  I'm thinking about Zinnser interior
bathroom paint, which is marketed as effective against mold and mildew.

 

Thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

 

 

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Don't get me started on sales/use taxes.

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 8:38 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of
manufacture

 

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.
However I was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I
assume it is similar when going the other way.

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I will add to the conversation that the sail cover on my 153 genoa definitely 
affects the shape, particularly in light air.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2022 8:46 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

 

That is a great article, and I think a great alternative . I get PS, but I 
don't remember that. I remember them doing the Hypalon boat painting. I didn't 
realize that paint was actually considered a premium product at the top 
sailmakers. When I first heard of people putting house paint on their sails, I 
thought oh my God! But it looks like that Amazon hypalon paint is just the 
ticket. I wish I had done that instead of putting the insignia sticky stuff on. 
Not sure how I'll get that off!

 

Also interesting in the comments below that, about the cover causing a hook in 
the leech. The Frisbee effect! I have that now, and I don't know how to get rid 
of it

Bill Coleman

Entrada Erie PA 

 

On Wed, Jun 22, 2022, 06:31 David Swensen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Painted UV protection?

 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/the-case-of-the-painted-jib%3Famp%3D1

Sent from my iPhone





On Jun 21, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I think I am going to use the sew-on cover again, the sock seems a little 
involved. Last time I had a UV cover done it was $500 or so, inflation sucks. I 
am going to ask around a few places. One thing that can bug you about an old 
boat is fixing the same stuff over and over. I am after batteries again and 
that isn’t going to be cheap either just like the last time or the one before 
that or the one before that….

 

To make it even worse, going to Saint Michael’s on Saturday the wind was 
CRANKING from astern, way too much for the spinnaker, the genoa is in the shop, 
and I don’t even have my working jib anymore. We ended up using just the main 
and that was good for hitting 8 knots, but the balance was terrible. Steering a 
straight line and not rounding up was a bit of a challenge.

In hindsight dragging out the storm jib would have been worth it for balance.

Joe

Coquina

 

Stus-List Re: Varnish

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Danny.  I have used Awlwood before with mixed results.  It worked great 
on my dorade boxes and has held up for years.  My cockpit coaming, not so much 
-- for some reason the primer did not adhere well.  I suspect it’s the natural 
oil in teak but do not know for sure.

 

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2022 6:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Varnish

 

I've switched to awlwood.  It does not have the same yellowing tendency as 
varnish and it looks really great!   You can hot coat it after the primer is 
cured.  It is very expensive, however. 

 

Danny

 

On Jun 18, 2022 2:09 PM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers:

 

I know this topic has been covered before, so please forgive my 
ignorance.  Although I don’t ordinarily varnish my interior teak ply, I plan to 
do so around the companionway to protect against water.  I’ll likely use a 
satin finish.  What type/brand of varnish would you recommend?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt

 

Stus-List Varnish

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

I know this topic has been covered before, so please forgive
my ignorance.  Although I don't ordinarily varnish my interior teak ply, I
plan to do so around the companionway to protect against water.  I'll likely
use a satin finish.  What type/brand of varnish would you recommend?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh.  The photo shows a soft shackle tied to a genny sheet with a 
bowline (or what appears to be a bowline).  How does this configuration solve 
the problem of the bowline getting hung up on stays when tacking a 150 genny?

 

From: Josh via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2022 1:44 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Josh 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

 

https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/
 

The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1980 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

 

Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >:

What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment 
from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to 
attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over knots.  
Thanks- Dave 

 

S/V Aries 

1990 C&C 34+ 

New London, CT 




 

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FWIW, I periodically revisit this issue as technologies improve, and so far I 
have reached the same conclusion as Charlie.  For how I use my boat, my 
old-fashioned lead acid battery system is good enough.

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2022 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Thanks all--and to paraphrase Joe's remarks, this is exactly why I will never 
go lithium on Water Phantom.

 

My boat use is for pleasure, not live aboard or extended cruising. Keeping up 
with even the simplest systems, when there are many of them, is enough 
engagement for me with the intricacies of boat maintenance. Do I want to add 
even more? You have got to be kidding me!!

 

Now and probably for some time, IMHO a lithium battery on a boat violates the 
KISS principle big time!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom 36XL/kcb
New Bern, NC

 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I’d have to experience a roll-through to be concerned about battery movement on 
my boat.  

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2022 10:33 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

 

For safer storage of lead/acid batteries onboard mine are in leak proof battery 
boxes which are held in place with straps attached to solid support

 

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 9:48 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Pretty much that. If you don’t mind having wet batteries those are probably 
fine. Having a battery crack open and dump acid in the bilge during a hurricane 
was a stinky situation I do not care to repeat. 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 6:51 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

The battery you indicated appears not to be an AGM.  Flooded batteries in 
general are much cheaper than the AGM.  My battery compartment is not easily 
accessible, so having to maintain the water level in the battery,  worries 
about operating it while healed plus the potential danger of spills makes me 
much happier to spend the extra $$$ for AGM batteries.  One less thing to worry 
about.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

On May 30, 2022, at 11:57 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I have used Dyno batteries without issue.  They cost less than 1/2.  Am I 
missing something?

 

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dyno-battery-heavy-duty-m30-marine-batteries/m30hh

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

 

On May 30, 2022, at 9:30 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



I highly recommend Lifeline group 31

 

Get Outlook for Android  


  _  


From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com   mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There is 
no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered the 
best AGM maker.

FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
battery shop and see what they charge. They are worse than Lifelines, but if 
they crap out after a week at least you can return them to the store 😉

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:25 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Batteries again

 

I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start and 
house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large power 
needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been reading 
and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what I have 
read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got Lifeline AGM 
group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 batteries

Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330

Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432

Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457

  

>From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal with 
>110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known (to me) 
>brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the numbers?  
>Thanks- Dave  

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Matthew via CnC-List]

It sounds like you need to do a complete re-fit – batteries, charger, 
alternator – and not simply swap batteries.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2022 9:38 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Thank you for outing the hack, sometimes it is hard to know who to believe when 
something (like this) is not your area of expertise.

I just found this on my Balmar regulator instructions, which gives me pause . 
.. 

 

LFP LiFeP04 Recommendations

Our LFP program is a generalized version of the recommendations provided by the 
top LFP battery manufacturers. For best performance and compatibility, please 
consult your battery manufacturer and use the regulator’s advanced programming 
features to adjust the LFP program as needed. LFP batteries are more sensitive 
to abuse than a traditional chemistry battery and can fail catastrophically. It 
is HIGHLY recommended that the charging system as a whole be installed or 
inspected by a qualified marine electrical installer that has experience with 
Balmar charging system products and LFP batteries. The LFP profile is intended 
to work with the battery manufacturer’s battery management systems (BMS). The 
LFP profile IS NOT a replacement for a BMS.

 

*Many LiFePo4 batteries have a Battery Management System (BMS) that may 
disconnect the battery from the alternator as a protective action or when 
charging is complete. The regulator must be shut down before the battery is 
disconnected .Running an alternator without a battery will damage the 
alternator and may damage any attached system. This is doubly true if the 
battery can be disconnected during high current charging, causing a load dump. 
The load dump can easily cause a high voltage spike which will destroy the 
alternator’s rectifier, at minimum. This is not a warrantable failure. To 
reiterate: THE ALTERNATOR MUST BE SHUT DOWN BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY. 
THE ONLY SAFE WAY TO SHUT DOWN THE ALTERNATOR IS TO TURN OFF THE REGULATOR. The 
preferred method of turning off the regulator is disconnecting the regulator’s 
ignition (brown) wire, but if used as an EMERGENCY ONLY shutdown, disconnecting 
the regulator’s power input (red) wire in addition to the ignition wire has a 
very low chance of damaging the regulator.

 

*LFP batteries will readily accept a damaging amount of current. Applying too 
much charge current to a LFP battery will, at the very least, permanently 
damage the battery’s capacity. It is CRITICAL to ensure that the alternator is 
not capable of exceeding the maximum continuous charge current rating of your 
battery (or batteries). As always, check with your battery manufacturer for 
specifics. Your battery manufacturer may supply you with a “C-rate” for 
charging and discharging. The maximum amount of charging current your battery 
can safely handle is determined by multiplying the “C-Rate” by the capacity of 
the bank. i.e. 4x 100Ah 12V batteries rated at 0.5C charge = 400 Ah * 0.5C = 
200amps MAX. If your alternator is capable of outputting more current, at any 
time or condition, than the battery (or batteries) can handle, you may use the 
Amp Manager feature on the MC-624 to lower the maximum field drive output, and 
thereby lower the maximum alternator output current. See page 10 of your 
regulator manual for details and instructions. Be aware that it is not an exact 
1:1 correlation between field output and alternator output, so start with more 
reduction (lower output) than you think you need and adjust accordingly.

 

*It is strongly recommended that an alternator temperature sensor (MC-TS-A) be 
used when charging LFP batteries. Given the extremely high charge acceptance 
rate of LFP batteries, the alternator will be driven to full output for almost 
all of the charge cycle. This can cause overheating in automotive style 
alternators resulting in a significantly shortened lifespan. When equipped with 
the MC-TS-A temperature sensor, the MC-624 will help you protect your 
investment by reducing the field voltage to your alternator by 50% when over 
the “AL1” temperature threshold. If you cannot use an MC-TS-A in your 
application, you should monitor the alternator’s temperature (measure as close 
to the loop ends of the stator as possible) and discontinue charging if the 
alternator temperature rises above the maximum recommended level. You may also 
use the Amp Manager feature on your MC-624 to reduce maximum output until a 
tolerable alternator temperature is maintained under all conditions.

 

*Most LFP battery manufacturers specify minimum and maximum charging 
temperatures to be from freezing (32°F, 0°C) to around 111°F (44°C). Again, 
consult with your battery manufacturer for specifics. When equipped with a 
MC-TS-B, the MC-624 can disable charging if the battery temperature exceeds the 
“B1L” temperature threshold and re-enable charging when the temperature drops 
below the threshold. This feature 

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Matthew via CnC-List]

This is excellent information.  Thanks, Paul.

 

One of the reasons I have hung on to my lead acid house batteries is that my 
charger has settings for AGM, lead, and maybe one other, but all three 
batteries must be of the same type.  The lead acid starting battery is isolated 
(combined for charging) has good cranking amps, so I have continued to use lead 
acid for the house.  How well do LiFePO4 batteries perform as starting 
batteries? 

 

From: Dreuge via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

Dave,

 

As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any sense 
to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house bank.   For 
lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current load due to the 
Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated at C/20.  For a 
100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is often called the 20H 
rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load is 20A, then the same 
100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH (or 10AH at 100A).  And 
worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid battery’s capacity as going below 
50% substantially degrades the battery lifetime.   This means that a 100AH lead 
acid battery has an effective 50AH @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A).  

 

Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the Amazon 
prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an effective 
100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.  

 

Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few years 
and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH LiFePO4 
battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH at 100A for 
1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up to 100A which 
is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4 batteries live 5 times 
longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5 sets of lead acid batteries 
before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, LiFePO4 batteries are more complex 
as they require a battery management system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies 
which provide 12V drop in replacements with the BMS built internal to the 
battery.   Top companies like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and 
provide a 10yr warranty.   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765.   A company, 
CurrentConnected.com  , sells a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 
battery for $569 and it has a 10 yr warranty!   YouTuber Will Prowse rates the 
SOK as the best value LiFePO4 12V drop in replacement (see 
https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html).  There are a 
plethora of cheaper 100AH LiFePO4 batteries that can be found on Amazon, Ebay, 
AliExpres, …, but one gets little service and limited warrantees,  so I would 
recommend avoiding these.

 

Rather than buying 2 100AH lead acid batteries for $528 at a total weight of 
140lbs(70lbs each) , one could just buy 1 100AH LiFePO4 for $569 weighing only 
28lbs and get a better performing battery.  That is basically the same price.   
If one takes into account the increased lifetime, the saving is HUGE!  

 

If one builds their own DIY LiFePO4 battery, the savings is much much greater.  
 Last year I replaced 2 100AH lead acid batteries with one DIY 560AH LiFePO4 
battery for a little over $900 (see my blog link below).  The DIY LiFePO4 
battery occupies the same location and physical space as the previous 2 lead 
acid batteries, it weighs much less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs), but has 5 TIMES the 
capacity.

 

I recently gave a talk on off-grid solar systems a local  amateur radio society 
meeting.  The discuss the battery as the heart of the system and make the case 
for LiFePO4 batteries.  My slides from the talk are available on my blog:

 


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html

 

 

Also, the details of my DIY 560AH LiFePO4 are posted at the link below which 
includes details about alternator charging. 

 


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html

 

 

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On May 26, 2022, at 11:24 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start and 
house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large power 
needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been reading 
and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what I have 
read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got Lifeline AGM 
group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 batteries

Powertech rated at 92AH  

Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Randy:

 

I’ll bet have an old Perko light or two laying around.  I saved 
them when I upgraded for some unknown reason (boat parts hoarder).  Happy to 
send one if I can find it.  Any interest?

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom

 

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2022 12:16 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

 

Thanks everybody.  I agree the Perko 0963 is the closest thing to what’s on my 
boat.  It looks like the design has changed since mine were installed, to have 
a plastic base and a festoon bulb (mine have a G6 bulb).

 

The way this saga started was that my starboard nav light bulb burnt out.  So I 
bought LED replacement bulbs with G6 bases for all three nav lights.  In the 
process of installing them, I dropped the port nav light dome and lens and two 
screws to the bottom of my slip (to join various screwdrivers and fasteners 
etc. that I’ve previously dropped; even a snatch block).

 

So now I’ve got project scope creep.  A simple light bulb change has turned 
into a swap out of two or three fixtures and a need to buy LED festoon bulbs 
for each.  At least I found a pair of the Perko 0963s for $109 at some trailer 
store online, which was the cheapest price out there.

 

Cheers,

Randy





On May 6, 2022, at 6:39 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Randy,

 

The Perko 0963 horizontal mount lights are no longer in production.  Perko does 
sell the lenses.  Their website says contact them about legacy products.

 

There are still complete lights out there.  Google "Perko 0963".

 

https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0963DP0CHR-Horizontal-Mount-Light/dp/B00144D1WK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125052136741?epid=1065002310 

 &hash=item1d1db02d25:g:B4QAAOSw2nhhuPF-

 

I replaced the bulbs in mine with red and green LED bulbs from MarineBeam.

 

I also had to put Helicoils in the bow fitting for mine.

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thank you to all who responded.  Sounds like butyl is the unanimous
recommendation for this application.  I have some "bed-it" laying around
somewhere, but as I recall it is thin and not very wide, and only comes in
one size.  I probably need something thicker and wider for this application.

 

Any suggestions on a brand?

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2022 7:26 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

 

My experience also.  Butyl.

Another observation -- some have posted that they plan to wrap a chainplate
in wax paper and cast it in epoxy.  This is not a good scheme as now your
sealant is hard epoxy.  Water will wick down the joint.  Leave a 1/8" to
1/4" gap around anything that penetrates the deck to allow butyl to seal the
joint.

 

Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34

Harmony

Ludington, MI

  _  

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2022 7:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general 

 

Butyl

 

In my experience it is the only sealant that will stay adhered to stainless
and still allow movement

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2022 6:53 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

 

Butyl tape

 

On Sun, Apr 17, 2022 at 11:39 AM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Listers:

 

FYI, while trying to determine what caused water infiltration into the balsa 
core above the water line up forward (the last place that hasn’t been 
repaired), a few days ago we identified the fittings securing the forestay 
chainplate as the likely culprit.  Although I’m sure there are more accurate 
names, the two fittings work together to make a stemhead fitting.  One fitting 
runs vertically on the uppermost portion of the bow, just below the deck, and 
has the forestay chainplate (looks like a large tang) welded on it.  The 
forestay chainplate/tang comes through a slot cut into the deck.  The second 
fitting is bolted onto the deck and has a slot for the chainplate/tang at the 
forward end and some hardware to connect jib tacks at the aft end.

 

We believe there are two issues at work that caused water infiltration: 1) the 
lower set of bolts holding the chainplate/tang fitting were drilled through the 
uppermost area of balsa core, thereby providing a pathway to the core if not 
properly sealed (which they were not); and 2) the deck fitting that fits around 
the chainplate/tang was allowing water in (probably a lot over the years).  
When we removed the deck fitting, we discovered that it was originally 
installed about ¾” aft of where it should have been.  This was immediately 
obvious because the originally drilled holes and the aft portion of the slot 
where the chainplate/tang comes through the deck had been re-glassed.  We then 
realized that the forward portion of this fitting had been modified to fit the 
more forward location (the forward rectangular corners had been cut off so the 
fitting/plate would fit).  We also noted that the slot for the chainplate/tang 
was not centered, with the tang pushing against the deck opening on the port 
side while leaving a 3/16” or so gap on the starboard side.  We widened the 
slot on the port side to accommodate sealant.

 

We will be putting everything back together when it warms up a few degrees.  We 
are debating what sealant to use for the deck fitting, particularly in the slot 
around the chainplate/tang.  My expert is thinking Sikaflex 295.  What say you?

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom   

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2022 2:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

 

Some thoughts on sealants.  Sealants are primarily silicone, polysulfide, 
polyurethane and blends of them.  Add to that butyl rubber.

 

First, as a rule, I like butyl for any hardware that has the potential to flex 
or move.  Chainplates fit that criteria.  

 

My default sealant for most everything else except plastic is LifeSeal.  For 
plastic I generally use silicone.

 

Here's a reference for where to use sealants:  
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-/view?usp=sharing

 

Note that Life Calk is a polysulfide.  Do not use polysulfide for plastic.

LifeSeal is a blend of silicone and polyurethane.

4200 is polyurethane.  I don't use 4200.  Got too many partially cured tubes.  
Look at the expiration date before you buy.

 

5200 is NOT a sealant.  It's an adhesive.  From the 3M website:

 

"3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, 
moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, 
gelcoat and fiberglass."  Note the word "permanent"!

 

A bit off the subject, but Flexpaste seems to fix gouges in rubber rub rails 
fairly well.  Who'd a thunk it?  An "as seen on TV product" that actually works 
on a boat!

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA  

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Not so fast.  I'm a fan of 3M, and used to be a fan of 4200.  However, in
December 2021 Practical Sailor reported that after several years, firmed up
4200 reverted back to goop.  Practical Sailor asked 3M about this, but as of
the April 2022 "3M has offered no comment on the cause or global impact of
the product failure."  3M 4000 UV may have the same problem, although
Practical Sailor reported that 3M claims a reformulated product solved it
(at least for 4000 UV).  The recent update in the April 2022 issue is on p.
6 under "Gear Graveyard."

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom 

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 4:40 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

 

3M 4200

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: March-21-22 5:28 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Chainplate Sealing.

 

Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I
pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod
on starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is
missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The
covers are original and thin 1/16 aluminum. I am getting them beefed up to
1/8 stainless. 

 

Looks like the PO had only sealed them with clear silicone. So that will all
be dug out. I am also inspecting the hull tabbing below with the chainplates
etc to ensure that I do not have any issues there. What is the best sealant
to use when installing the new cover plates? Thanks!

 

Regards,

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Keel wobble

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I didn't intend to start a controversy about the most appropriate type of
expert, but I meant what I said.  If it were my boat, I'd want an engineer
to have a look.  I agree with Jeff's assessment below.

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2022 10:53 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Keel wobble

 

I couldn't let this note pass as I believe, as an engineer myself, there is
some misunderstanding presented regarding the differences between engineers,
architects, and trades and a confusion of terminology.  There are of course
superstars and incompetents in every professional field.  But, generally,
the architect (or scientist, take your pick) is the dreamer, the engineer
figures out how to make the dream a reality (often with a high degree of
creativity -- another misunderstanding about engineers, that they are dull
and uncreative...) , and the trades (builders) implement the engineer's
instructions.  A good, experienced engineer will have spent time in the
trades, will be able to build anything she/he designs, and understands the
theory, the stresses, the loads, etc. of whatever is built.  Engineer's do
not just draw lines on paper.  That's a drafter, not an engineer.  If a
thorough evaluation of a structure's condition is desired, and engineer is
the best qualified, by far.

 

Jeff Laman

81 C&C34

"Harmony"

Ludington, MI

 

  _  

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Stephen:

 

My first boat was a Ranger 26 that had been modified (the cast 
iron keel was replaced with an IOR-style lead keel).  I discovered this after I 
bought the boat -- for a song, mind you, as it had been abandoned.  We tackled 
a variety of projects, including rebedding the keel bolts.  The bolt holes were 
visibly cracked and leaking a bit.  I can say with 100% certainty that the keel 
is now adequately supported, and the bolt holes will never leak again.  Based 
on my experience with the Ranger, my view is that nearly anything can be 
repaired on a fiberglass boat.  Given what you described, you can probably 
glass some stiffeners in place.

 

My concerns would be: 1) what caused the problem; and 2) fixing 
it correctly.  If you race the boat, you may also need to deal with 
weight/modification issues.  As to my first concern, a solid glass hull flexing 
enough to discern keel movement is obviously not normal.  Perhaps the boat ran 
hard aground?  As to my second concern, I suggest having a nautical engineer 
inspect the problem and recommend the repair.  I would not just go sailing and 
keep an eye on it.  The keel on the Cal 33 I grew up on developed a problem we 
were “keeping an eye on,” and the boat nearly sunk in the middle of Lake Erie 
(50 degree water) with me and a few law school buddies on board.  Had she gone 
down, we would have perished – no life raft on board, and not enough time for a 
rescue in water that cold.  The repair was relatively straightforward, and the 
boat is still sailing today.  Remarkably, although Cal 33 owners were not 
warned, Lapworth had already designed the fix.  It was an easy repair that has 
lasted for nearly 40 years, but the potential consequences of a pre-repair 
failure were disastrous.

 

On my 42, the leading edge of the keel where it meets the hull 
shows signs of cracking.  I promptly had a nautical engineer look at.  He was 
an intern or apprentice at C&C in the ‘70s, and based on his knowledge he 
concluded that the location of the cracks is not a critical stress point.  The 
weight of the keel is supported further aft, and the leading edge likely has 
fill inside and may be flexing enough to develop the cracks.  He concluded it 
is non-structural with no chance of catastrophic failure.  That’s the kind of 
problem I’m willing to keep an eye on.

 

Long story short: it can likely be repaired, but you need 
expert help.  This is not something to mess around with.  Good luck!

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom   

 

From: Stephen Kidd via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2022 7:31 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Stephen Kidd 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

Greetings, 

 

I wanted to give an update on the keel wobble on our 25 MKII. It took a while 
for us to get our ducks and the weather in a row, but it gave us time to do a 
lot of reading and research following the leads provided through the list. As 
our next step in investigating the keel wobble, we tightened the bolts and 
checked the keel with the boat in slings. Torquing the bolts went smoothly 
using a torque wrench, torque multiplier and an extra deep socket. Before 
tightening, we backed them up a little, and they all budged with between 100 - 
150 ft/lbs of torque on the wrench. We were able to torque the keel bolts to 
350 ft/lbs, and there was no indication of the bolt spinning or washers digging 
into the glass. 

 

We then had the boat lifted in slings, and the keel continued to flex with a 
moderate push with a foot. At this point, I noticed that the flex wasn't 
between the keel and the hull (that was encouraging!), but it was the entire 
hull flexing. I then climbed aboard and asked the very accommodating marina 
manager to wiggle the keel, which he did with vigor. The entire bottom of the 
bilge visibly flexed. Interestingly to me, the keel bolts didn't appear to move 
relative to the rest of the hull, everything was in it together. The hull/keel 
joint actually seems pretty solid, so I am glad that we took this step before 
dropping the keel. The hull flexing is something we should have caught right 
away, but we looked right past it because we assumed it was the hull/keel 
joint. 

 

Even if the hull/keel joint is off the hook for the wobble, from past 
discussions on this list and elsewhere, I suspect this is not a good finding. 
We have seen cases where people have made significant and impressive structural 
repairs, many of which have been referenced here on the list, to increase 
rigidity. The both of us carefully inspected the bilge area for signs of 
cracking or separation, and we have not identified anything obvious (untrained 
eyes). Thus, we would not know what to fix were we to go that route. The marina 
manager is similarly at a loss. I'm also not comfortable not knowing why the 
hull is visibly flexing. At the same time, several sailors at the marina 
suggested that 

Stus-List Re: Photos for the list

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I thanked Stu and responded to Richard's inquiry, then realized I violated 
Stu's rule (below).  Sorry, Stu.  Here's what the note said:

Thanks, Stu.

To answer Richard’s question, this shot was taken from an Alden 50-something 
ketch as we passed her on the Wolford Trophy (named after my Dad).  The first 
day of this weekend race is about 45 miles.  We start in Erie, cross the lake, 
turn west around Long Point, sail to Bluff Bar mark, and head in to Port Dover, 
Ontario (where we eat the best perch in the world at the Erie Beach Hotel).  
Although I prefer 8 or 9 people when there’s breeze, we can get away with 7 on 
point-to-point long distance races.  Constantly rounding marks would be a 
different story.  Because I no longer race the regular schedule, I don’t have a 
set crew.  It can be very difficult to get enough people to properly run the 
boat.  Worse yet, I just turned 60 and my group of sailing friends (who are 
excellent sailors) are all getting old.  This is not a good boat for a bunch of 
old guys.  Everything is huge.  We endearingly call her the man-eater.

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 4:43 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Photos for the list

DO NOT!!! include the original photo if your reply to a message containing a 
photo.

The email just posted from Richard shows you what happens -- your message ends 
up with multiple copies of the photos.  I guarantee I will not approve them to 
be posted.

A little co-operation goes a long way.

Stu
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I still have an Ulmer chute on board from the serious racing days (mid- to 
late-70s).  We call it big blue.  The chute originally had a large daisy in the 
middle (I’ve seen an old photo), but the next owner had it cut out.  Although 
close, the daisy replacement cloth is not exactly the same color as the rest of 
sail.  It’s ugly as hell, but fast. 

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 2:43 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

Robert,

 

When I was a yungin’ I was a foredeck monkey on  a C & C 35 and 38 in LIS.  
Golden Peace raced against Christopher Dragon many a time.  My powerboat is 
named Rogue and I always think of the Ericson 39 Rogue who was on the line as 
well.

 

Good times and great fleets and sailing with Butch was a hoot.

 

From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 1:29 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Robert Mazza mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

Hi Matt,

 

Good to hear from you. 

 

Very much involved. The 42 was a development of the 1975 Canada's Cup 
challenger Marauder which lost to Golden Dazy. I was Project Manager for 
Marauder and also crewed aboard her for the Two Ton Worlds and the Canada's Cup 
racing in Detroit.  The flush decked Christopher Dragon was a Custom Shop 
production version of Marauder. I was also project manager on that boat as 
well, I think. I sailed Bermuda Races and Long Island Sound races aboard her 
with Butch Ulmer. I also sailed aboard Keith Burley's C&C 42 Genevieve out of 
RHYC. I remember going into a spreaders in the water broach on that boat in the 
middle of a spinnaker peel on Burlington Bay! Genevieve is now at the Prince 
Edward Yacht Club in Picton, ON. 

 

So, yes, some involvements with 42s. ;-) 

 

I have the Barient 23 self-tailers on our dining room table, but probably won't 
disassemble them until Trillium gets uncovered. 

 

Take care, and I look forward to seeing you sometime this summer in Port Dover. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 1:04 PM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Rob:

 

I may have asked you previously, but were you involved with the 
42 Custom.  Six were produced in or about 1976.  I believe mine was the last.

 

Matt

 

From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 11:22 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Robert Mazza mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

The building on Wallace Road, which was diagonally opposite the later building 
on Speers Road, became the C&C Sales Office and Showroom for a while before the 
short lived showroom was built as part of the office complex in Port Credit. 
The Speers Road building housed a valve plant before it was acquired and 
greatly enlarged by the C&C Custom division. I started work in that plant 
building Redline 25s under Mike Houndslow. That must have been in 1969 because 
Manitou, True North, Bagatelle, and Red Jacket were in the shop at the time. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 7:10 AM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Found a reference to 1492 Wallace Road.   It’s a different building…. Will have 
to research more

JKC 

Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

> On Mar 17, 2022, at 6:33 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> mailto:j...@motiondesignslimited.com> > wrote:
> 
> From Google earth I can see the building is still there.   But my history 
> says they moved to Wallace Rd. before Speers, what I don’t know is if it was 
> a different building on Wallace or because this one, at the corner of Wallace 
> and Speers, my source meant this one…. Hmmm
> 
> JKC
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[Matthew via CnC-List]

One other thing I failed to mention: we’ve had two massive knockdowns with the 
big chute up crossing Lake Erie.  The boat is hard to control downwind in 20+ 
knots with quartering seas, and it’s difficult to recover from a knockdown with 
all that sail up.  A wave removed the wind instruments from the masthead during 
one of them.  I learned the meaning of “samurai douse.” 

 

From: Robert Mazza  
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 1:29 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

Hi Matt,

 

Good to hear from you. 

 

Very much involved. The 42 was a development of the 1975 Canada's Cup 
challenger Marauder which lost to Golden Dazy. I was Project Manager for 
Marauder and also crewed aboard her for the Two Ton Worlds and the Canada's Cup 
racing in Detroit.  The flush decked Christopher Dragon was a Custom Shop 
production version of Marauder. I was also project manager on that boat as 
well, I think. I sailed Bermuda Races and Long Island Sound races aboard her 
with Butch Ulmer. I also sailed aboard Keith Burley's C&C 42 Genevieve out of 
RHYC. I remember going into a spreaders in the water broach on that boat in the 
middle of a spinnaker peel on Burlington Bay! Genevieve is now at the Prince 
Edward Yacht Club in Picton, ON. 

 

So, yes, some involvements with 42s. ;-) 

 

I have the Barient 23 self-tailers on our dining room table, but probably won't 
disassemble them until Trillium gets uncovered. 

 

Take care, and I look forward to seeing you sometime this summer in Port Dover. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 1:04 PM Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Rob:

 

I may have asked you previously, but were you involved with the 
42 Custom.  Six were produced in or about 1976.  I believe mine was the last.

 

Matt

 

From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 11:22 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Robert Mazza mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

The building on Wallace Road, which was diagonally opposite the later building 
on Speers Road, became the C&C Sales Office and Showroom for a while before the 
short lived showroom was built as part of the office complex in Port Credit. 
The Speers Road building housed a valve plant before it was acquired and 
greatly enlarged by the C&C Custom division. I started work in that plant 
building Redline 25s under Mike Houndslow. That must have been in 1969 because 
Manitou, True North, Bagatelle, and Red Jacket were in the shop at the time. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 7:10 AM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Found a reference to 1492 Wallace Road.   It’s a different building…. Will have 
to research more

JKC 

Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

> On Mar 17, 2022, at 6:33 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> mailto:j...@motiondesignslimited.com> > wrote:
> 
> From Google earth I can see the building is still there.   But my history 
> says they moved to Wallace Rd. before Speers, what I don’t know is if it was 
> a different building on Wallace or because this one, at the corner of Wallace 
> and Speers, my source meant this one…. Hmmm
> 
> JKC
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Richard:

 

Not right this minute, but sure.  What’s your direct e-mail address?  Stu’s 
site doesn’t do photos.

 

As I understand it, there were two Baltic 42s: the older one was a sistership 
hull of my boat; the newer one looked more IOR.  I’ve been around long enough 
to have observed C&C’s evolution from more swept back keels (e.g., original C&C 
33, 35, 39) to later models with IOR-style keels (more vertical).  It’s like 
looking at the evolution from monkeys to humans – later keels are more upright. 
 The 42 Custom started to straighten out the keel, but it’s more swept back 
than the 34 and 36 that came out in the late-70s.  The deck is mostly flush but 
has “go fast” windows.  The Admiral wishes it had more/bigger windows.  Despite 
the mostly flush deck, there is ample headroom down below due to the large 
freeboard.  She is an imposing boat for a 42, and still a bit of a head-turner. 
 My boat was the pride of the Mentor Harbor Yacht Club when I raced against her 
as a kid.

 

Rob:

 

I had a funny feeling you were involved with this boat.  Rob 
Ball said he designed the steering system (along with other things, no doubt).  
I understand that of the six that were made, five are still in regular use.  
One was being sold out of Chicago a couple years ago.

 

Glad to hear you made it back home safe and sound.  I look forward to seeing 
you this summer (assuming Trudeau and Biden wise up).

 

Matt 

 

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 1:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

Rob and Matt; thank you for sharing the history of these boats; in viewing the 
42 on the photo album, they look like very different boats from the 41s; on 
sailboat data.com, they show the flushdeck model only, (the Christopher 
Dragon?), and a reference to the Baltic 42s, which , of course used the hull; 
this is fascinating: Mat can you share some photos of your 42?

 

Thanks again!

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1085 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596:

 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Stus-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Robert Mazza < <mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com> robertlma...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Mar 17, 2022 1:28 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

Hi Matt, 

 

Good to hear from you. 

 

Very much involved. The 42 was a development of the 1975 Canada's Cup 
challenger Marauder which lost to Golden Dazy. I was Project Manager for 
Marauder and also crewed aboard her for the Two Ton Worlds and the Canada's Cup 
racing in Detroit.  The flush decked Christopher Dragon was a Custom Shop 
production version of Marauder. I was also project manager on that boat as 
well, I think. I sailed Bermuda Races and Long Island Sound races aboard her 
with Butch Ulmer. I also sailed aboard Keith Burley's C&C 42 Genevieve out of 
RHYC. I remember going into a spreaders in the water broach on that boat in the 
middle of a spinnaker peel on Burlington Bay! Genevieve is now at the Prince 
Edward Yacht Club in Picton, ON. 

 

So, yes, some involvements with 42s. ;-) 

 

I have the Barient 23 self-tailers on our dining room table, but probably won't 
disassemble them until Trillium gets uncovered. 

 

Take care, and I look forward to seeing you sometime this summer in Port Dover. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 1:04 PM Matthew via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Rob:

 

I may have asked you previously, but were you involved with the 
42 Custom.  Six were produced in or about 1976.  I believe mine was the last.

 

Matt

 

From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 11:22 AM
To: Stus-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Robert Mazza < <mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com> robertlma...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

The building on Wallace Road, which was diagonally opposite the later building 
on Speers Road, became the C&C Sales Office and Showroom for a while before the 
short lived showroom was built as part of the office complex in Port Credit. 
The Speers Road building housed a valve plant before it was acquired and 
greatly enlarged by the C&C Custom division. I started work in that plant 
building Redline 25s under Mike Houndslow. That must have been in 1969 because 
Manitou, True North, Bagatelle, and Red Jacket were in the shop at the time. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 7:10 AM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <

Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Rob:

 

I may have asked you previously, but were you involved with the 
42 Custom.  Six were produced in or about 1976.  I believe mine was the last.

 

Matt

 

From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2022 11:22 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Mazza 
Subject: Stus-List Re: While we wait for spring

 

The building on Wallace Road, which was diagonally opposite the later building 
on Speers Road, became the C&C Sales Office and Showroom for a while before the 
short lived showroom was built as part of the office complex in Port Credit. 
The Speers Road building housed a valve plant before it was acquired and 
greatly enlarged by the C&C Custom division. I started work in that plant 
building Redline 25s under Mike Houndslow. That must have been in 1969 because 
Manitou, True North, Bagatelle, and Red Jacket were in the shop at the time. 

 

Rob

 

On Thu, Mar 17, 2022 at 7:10 AM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Found a reference to 1492 Wallace Road.   It’s a different building…. Will have 
to research more

JKC 

Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

> On Mar 17, 2022, at 6:33 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> mailto:j...@motiondesignslimited.com> > wrote:
> 
> From Google earth I can see the building is still there.   But my history 
> says they moved to Wallace Rd. before Speers, what I don’t know is if it was 
> a different building on Wallace or because this one, at the corner of Wallace 
> and Speers, my source meant this one…. Hmmm
> 
> JKC
Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: Test 1

[Matthew via CnC-List]

We’re all starting to work on spring projects.

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2022 10:09 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Test 1

 

No traffic since 3/12

Please trim your messages before sending to the list.  Thankx

Stus-List Re: email problem

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Same thing here.  Several listers have been discussing this issue for a
while now.  I thought they had it figured out.  Guess not.

-Original Message-
From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2022 5:26 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List email problem


Dennis post on fire extinguishers came through gmail just fine.  When I
access gmail through Outlook it converted the message to an attachment as
.htm file This only happens with list postings

Any clues??

John Read

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2022 1:30 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List New fire extinguisher regulation (US)


Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Email problem

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Got it, Rob.

-Original Message-
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2022 9:41 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Email problem


A day after I thought my email issue to the C&C list was resolved, it returned. 
 I some cases I wasn't able to Send, then I couldn't Send or Receive.   Someone 
mentioned that the problem was on my end but yet I could both Send and Receive 
to other email addresses (not the C&C List) just fine which leads me to believe 
it has to do with the list's server.  I am no tech authority, just stating what 
is happening.

Here's hoping this one goes through?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-23 11:15 p.m., John Read wrote:
> Some postings come through just fine, others as an attachment which is 
> a PITA.  The interesting part is some of Robert Abbots came through 
> both ways and some attachments as multiple postings with the same 
> information
>
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

[Matthew via CnC-List]

This time Rick's note came through normally.  I need to get my kids on this.

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2022 8:47 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue


Interesting that my rich text message from 90 minutes ago got translated to
an HTML attachment. I have only ever used rich text as far as I can recall,
and previous messages have all gone through the system and been visible with
no problems.

FWIW, the content of the earlier message was:


But the answer begs a second question:

What has changed that messages using HTML format, which used to be visible
just as plain text messages were, are now converted to being an attachment?

(sent in Rich Text format, which my crib sheet says can contain formatting
but is primarily compatible with Outlook or Microsoft Edge.)


Rick Brass
Washington, NC


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 3, 2022 7:15 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue


There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Interesting.  When I responded to Benjamin, whose e-mail came through
normally, my response came through normally.  When I responded to Rick,
whose e-mail came through as an attachment, my response came through as an
attachment.  Hmmm.

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2022 7:15 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

 

 

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

[Matthew via CnC-List]

For those keeping score, Rick's message came through as an attachment.  My
back and forth with Benjamin came through normally.

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2022 7:15 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

 

 

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Email headaches

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Stu.  FWIW, I doubt the problem is at each lister's computer.  I'm
getting some e-mail notes the normal way, and some as attachments.  If the
problem were with my computer, I would think it would be consistent at my
end.

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2022 1:26 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Email headaches


>From what I am reading, these problems are not across the board.  Individual
email clients, servers, etc. appear to be the culprits.

The archives for the list, are not showing any 'ghosts'.  Every message has
full content and appears as regular text -- no funny html characters.

I am sure with all the help I am getting that we will conquer.

Stu
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: First Aid Kit (inland & coastal)

[Matthew via CnC-List]

The bigger the boat, the greater potential for serious injury.  For example,
with a larger boat used for cruising, burns from an onboard fire is a
greater concern (cooking).  How far you wander offshore is also relevant
(how much time is needed to get back to shore).  For a 24-footer used for
day-sailing, I believe you captured the basics.  FWIW, I now keep an AED on
board (heart attack).

I used to keep a few dilaudid pills on board for offshore racing (serious
injury, a long time to get to shore).  Someone discovered them and took
them.  Go figure.

Matt   

-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2022 8:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Subject: Stus-List First Aid Kit (inland & coastal)



An ad popped up on FB for a "boaters" first aid kit for a ridiculous price
of $200+. The wee orange Pelican box was probably half the cost, but I
digress.

Concerning inland and coastal sailing, it made me wonder what should be in a
marine FAK? From my limited experience, I'd say the items that it should
cover are (to start):

Fingers getting smashed/pinched (band-aids) Rope burns Cuts/scrapes
Headache/nausea Dehydration Exposure (heat related) Sun protection
(sunscreen)

Any thoughts?



--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C&C 24
Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: All the messages now come as attachments instead of text

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I am also having this issue.  Appeared to have started a couple days ago.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2022 9:12 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List All the messages now come as attachments instead of text

 

 

Stus-List Rob Mazza contact info

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Listers:

Does anyone know Rob Mazza's cell phone number?  He plans to pick up
two winches from me when he drives through the Erie area later today, but he
did not provide his cell number to coordinate his ETA.  I sent him an e-mail
note this morning but he is likely already on the road.

Please advise at my e-mail address --  wolf...@erie.net -- or text
my cell (below).  Thanks.

Matt

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
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recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
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you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete
it. Thank you.

Please consider the environment before printing this note.

Stus-List Re: C&C cutting boards

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Stu.

 

I saw in the e-mail traffic a reference to font style for the boat name.  Will 
different font styles be an available option?

 

From: stu--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2022 11:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: s...@snghost.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C cutting boards

 

I have been overwhelmed at the interest in the cutting boards.  Based on the 
interest, I will be busy for quite some time.

 

I am finishing up on an internet order page which will make bookkeeping a lot 
easier for me.  Just hang in there for a day or two so that I know it works and 
is simple to use.

 

As for shipping to Mexico – $23.00 US and buyer will be responsible for any 
duties, etc.

 

Stay safe ‘n’ healty

Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Governments often take action based on a perceived issue, which the Government 
views as static, without factoring in that people will react to the Government 
action to address the issue.  Government officials have all heard the term 
“social engineering,” and I assume they understand what it means, but they are 
surprisingly inept at predicting the likely consequences of Government action.  
In this case, the Government needs money, it figures rich people can afford to 
pay, so it decided to tax rich people’s toys without considering that rich 
people will react to the new tax and stop buying new toys in Canada.

 

I teach an environmental law class at a local university.  One of the topics is 
the U.S. EPA’s “New Source Review,” which was intended to force older, 
coal-fired power plants (and other old emitters) to meet updated emission 
standards when they expand to produce more electricity (or whatever) and, in 
turn, increase emissions.  The EPA created this “hook” based on its observation 
that companies would routinely expand old plants instead of building new ones 
that meet modern emission standards.  The new rule guaranteed that older plants 
would no longer be expanded, but would continue to run dirty as they had been 
until they fall down.  Duh.

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2022 2:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

 

When the US imposed the luxury tax in the 90's or whenever, it put 17,000 boat 
builders in the unemployment line.  Luxury car salespersons also suffered. 
Legislators and bureaucrats are woefully ignorant of the law of unintended 
consequences.

 

Did it result in increased tax collections?  Not really.  As it only applied to 
new yachts bought in the US, rich folks simply bought yachts in Europe and 
brought them home, as I recall.

 

Other anecdotal laws we seem to forget: the U shaped curve (governs 
efficiencies of volume), the 95% rule (it's easy to pick up the first 95% of 
that pound of sugar you spilled).  And there's always the law above them all, 
Murphy's Law.


--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 1:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

OK, I know I should just get back to work, but this is a very thought provoking 
Bill about to take place, 

and it is like watching a slow motion train wreck.

 

The American Version of the 90’s may not have been what completely killed C&C, 
but it certainly guaranteed it.

 

What do they say, “Those who do not remember the mistakes of the past are 
condemned to repeat them in the future” ?!

It’s been about a generation, long enough to forget, I guess. And Canada has a 
lot to lose.

 

https://marinefabricatormag.com/2021/12/20/analysis-shows-canadas-proposed-luxury-tax-will-have-heavy-impact-on-marine-industry/

 

 

https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1991-06-13-9102220626-story.html

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New C&C Items

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I would buy one or two.

 

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2022 2:30 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Stus-List Re: New C&C Items

 

Yes, I want one!

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Spending summers on the Chesapeake Bay and winters in warm places)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

email: dainyr...@icloud.com  





On Jan 10, 2022, at 1:09 PM, Stu via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Coming soon – C&C galley/kitchen cutting board.

 

Approximate size – 14”H x 10”W x 1”  bamboo board.  Laser engraved so the 
design is actually burned into the wood.

 

Your boat name can be added but no choice of font.  I cannot duplicate the font 
on your boat.

 

Boards will be treated with cutting board oil.

 

Prices:

a) C&C Logo only – $22.00 US

b) C&C Logo and boat name $25.00  US

 

Shipping to

Canada -- $14 US

Continental USA – $17 US 

 

Payment will be by check, money order or PayPal (preferred).

 

If there is enough interest, I will start taking orders.

 

Stay safe ‘n’ healthy

Stu

 



 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.

[Matthew via CnC-List]

My 42 Custom, my previous 34, and the 36 of the same vintage all have a similar 
design for the rudder.  The top of the rudder where the rudder post enters is 
out of the water when the boat is at rest.  If you have a reasonably good seal 
where the rudder post enters, water infiltration should be kept to a minimum.

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 5:40 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net; 'Martin DeYoung' ; John 
Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.

 

My C&C 34 now 40 years old and nary a problem in this regard.  Prior boat 25 
years nary a problem.  I think the issue has more to do with how the rudder is 
constructed.  If just shaped foam covered with a few layers of glass and even 
better is water logged then might be a problem.  Mine is solid glass 3-4 inches 
thick around entire perimeter and is dry so no problems.  John your 36 has 
older thick not really tapered design so most likely not an issue for you.

 

My 2 cents American  :)

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 4:02 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net  ; Martin DeYoung
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.

 

 Not quite the same risk but last summer (2021) when Calypso was hauled out for 
paint and repairs the PNW experienced a stretch of very hot weather. It was 
enough sustained heat that all the white lithium grease around the rudder 
bearings “melted” and ran down the rudder to puddle on the tarp (ground). 

 

Fortunately it cooled down before we got around to stripping/painting the 
rudder.

I posted reminders to refill the packing gland before launching but after all 
painting was finished. It took most of a grease tube before I observed a 
suitable amount of grease squirting out of the usual places.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jan 7, 2022, at 10:53 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Curious if anyone has been told that you should paint their rudders white to 
prevent issues when the boat is out for the winter? One of the staff at my 
winter yard told me he has seen C&C rudders burst due to the sun heating them 
up? 

 

I used to do this on my past Ericson 32 as the previous owner had and told me 
that they had similar issues. Did not on our last C&C 37XL nor our current, and 
the previous owner of 25 years did not. I am so buried with other boats around 
me I doubt I even get any sun exposure. I assume once the boat is in the water 
it does not matter. Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FWIW, potable antifreeze is reportedly not good for the rubber in pumps, so I 
only use it for winterizing the potable water system.

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 1:45 PM
To: John Read ; 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water

 

John, 
I don't use the -35C windshield washer fluid in the potable waterlines, fresh 
water tankonly in the bilge lines and the head shower overboard line.  In 
the potable water lines I use plumber's antifreeze.

In the engine, I use full strength diesel antifreeze 50% - 50% with water. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax,N.S. 

On 2022-01-07 11:50 a.m., John Read wrote:

A quick internet search indicates caution using windshield washer fluid in 
potable water lines.  Most fluids use methanol also known as methyl / wood 
alcohol  to prevent the freezing.  Methanol is highly poisonous and can cause 
blindness.  It may be ingested through air, skin or mouth.  May also be 
corrosive

 

The water system antifreeze are usually based on propylene glycol which is 
considered generally safe unless ingested in large quantities.  Propylene 
glycol rarely causes toxic effects, and then only under very unusual 
circumstances. Propylene glycol is a Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) food 
additive that is widely used in cosmetics. In certain medicines, cosmetics, and 
food products, propylene glycol acts as solvent.

 

In both cases, thorough rinsing of the potable system is recommended

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I do more or less the same.  My boat is covered in the winter, and there’s no 
real issue unless the mast is up.  When it’s up, water accumulates in the 
bilge, so I throw in some antifreeze.  I don’t pump out in the winter because I 
don’t want to undermine winterization of the bilge pump.  Instead, I keep a 
Shop Vac on the boat, and if the water accumulates too much I suck it out and 
dump it in the galley sink.  The garboard drain idea is intriguing, but my DNA 
is resistant to drilling underwater holes in my bilge.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom  

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water

 

My mast is usually out during the winter...left it in this year for reasons...I 
use a cheap -35C windshield washer in the bilge to prevent any water from 
freezing before I get to the boat to pump it out. Mast in or mast out, I don't 
use either the manual or electric pump(s) in the winterboth lines and pumps 
are primed with the same -35C rated windshield washer to prevent any chance of 
freezing causing trouble.  Has worked well for the past 16 winters.

Rob Abbott 
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax,N.S. 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Confession Time - "Dark Side"...not so dark

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That’s a lot of boat!  I’m not!

 

Congrats, David!

 

From: DJ via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2022 4:08 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: DJ 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Confession Time - "Dark Side"...not so dark

 

That's a lot of boat!  I'm jealous! 

 

On Jan 6, 2022 3:00 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:

We have sold the family home and purchased Rogue aka “The Beast” (Gulfstar 49 
MY) and are living aboard her in Florida.  Specific location will change every 
few months as we determine where to next buy dirt.

 

Fear not as we have not sold our beloved Corsair which will remain in Marion 
and be our home base in the summer as we continue to peruse New England.

 

If others are thinking of doing the same, feel free to ask questions.  I will 
not tell anyone…promise.

 

 

David F. Risch

Managing Director

Great Benefits USA

401-419-4650 - Direct Line



 

 www.greatbenefitsusa.com

 

The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient 
specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of this 
message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender. If you 
received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and follow with 
its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not occur in the future.

Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority. 
Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and 
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damage inflicted by viewing the content of this email.

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

IMHO, if the wiggle goes away after repairing/tightening the bolts, you solved 
the problem.  A soft grounding as you described may work on loosening the bolts 
a little bit, but unlikely would have done any structural damage.

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 6:39 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

I think you said it was not leaking water from the outside into the bilge. If 
that's the case then the seal is still OK. I think if you do the repair you 
will be good to go. If you sell and move on to something different the new 
owner will have to fix it anyway and that will likely reduce considerably what 
you get for the boat  and it may not interest a buyer as is. The fix doesn't 
look too complicated from what i can see in the photos. 

 

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:16 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

These responses are super helpful! Four years in, we remain novices, which 
makes it hard to even know the questions to ask. No matter the approach we 
take, it is clear that replacing the washers and adding backing plates is part 
of the project. I was a little perplexed by the aft keel bolt washers and 
unsuccessfully poked around the internet for a while trying to figure out if 
that was normal or something done by a previous owner.

 

We did have a soft grounding in mud on the side of a channel while motoring 
back to our marina this fall (in full view of everyone, including incoming 
flights to DCA, of course). We were going pretty slow and ended up 
drifting/sliding off, but physics is tricky, so I have no idea what was going 
on down there. About a week later we had the boat hauled and transported by 
trailer to her new home about an hour away. Maybe that loosened things up? 
Luckily we now have better access to boatyards. We've had folk from two take a 
look at the keel while the boat was in slings (our new marina and another 
boatyard), but have not had a formal survey. While we got an estimate for the 
keel-drop/re-bedding, both suggested that the tightening/filling route is an 
option. There is also the "another boat" option to consider. It is greener, and 
just on the other side of the fence.

 

So, my new question is, if we do have keel bolt degradation, bolt hole 
elongation (not entirely sure what this is, but it sounds dire), or structural 
damage to the sump, would we still expect wiggle after tightening? In other 
words, if we tighten the keel bolts and wiggle ceases, has the problem most 
likely been resolved?

 

Thank you for the insights! 

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 12:35 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft most one, 
I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of washers, so the nut 
would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see where the washers 
rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the fiberglass big time. 
Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space, then either a short piece of 
heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a couple washers, or take that stack of 
washers and orient them correctly, and compress them with a bolt onto the 
backing plate, and have a welder fuse them together with a TIG without getting 
it too hot. Just enough to keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and 
tighten it up to specs.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are having 
with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter projects and 
were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat was on the travel 
lift, a little bit laterally. 

 

I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts 
 . Here are some observations:

1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when 
lifted from the stands.

2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak. 

3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C&C smile based on internet 
searches.

 

Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?), fair, and 
paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix? 

 

Thanks!

Stephen

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Agreed that some beefing up is in order (including backing plates).  Not sure 
welding is necessary.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 12:35 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft most one, 
I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of washers, so the nut 
would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see where the washers 
rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the fiberglass big time. 
Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space, then either a short piece of 
heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a couple washers, or take that stack of 
washers and orient them correctly, and compress them with a bolt onto the 
backing plate, and have a welder fuse them together with a TIG without getting 
it too hot. Just enough to keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and 
tighten it up to specs.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 11:31 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

You can fix that. Yes grind it out and clean surfaces well with acetone soaked 
rags. Use a brush and apply West system epoxy to cleaned surfaces. The fill the 
gap(s) with silica thickened epoxy putty.  Then a couple of layers of epoxy 
soaked glass matte. Grind to shaped and fair with polyester resin like 
lightweight car body filler. Torque keel bolts to spec before the crack repair 
and replace the washers with larger 3/8 inch stainless steel backing plates. 

 

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are having 
with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter projects and 
were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat was on the travel 
lift, a little bit laterally. 

 

I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts 
 . Here are some observations:

1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when 
lifted from the stands.

2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak. 

3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C&C smile based on internet 
searches.

 

Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?), fair, and 
paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix? 

 

Thanks!

Stephen

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Unless you had a hard grounding of something serious, a little movement is 
likely caused by loose keel bolts.  We noticed the aft end of the keel on my 42 
was not tight when we hauled out in 2020.  The culprit was the back two bolts.  
We tightened the nuts and all is well.  Not sure what caused them to loosen, 
but I suspect it was a little diesel fuel in the bilge.

 

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2022 11:40 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

 

While I’m a new owner, I’ve now witnessed two launches and two haul-outs… each 
involving a 500 yard run up a bumpy hill hanging/swaying in a sling (not for 
the faint of heart) and my keel doesn’t move relative to the boat (1980 C&C 34) 
at all. 

 

It did have the familiar C&C smile when I bought it, but with the kind 
direction of this group, a cautionary torquing of the keel bolts, and some 
G-Flex applied pre-launch last season—that appears to be remedied for now.

 

Not to be alarmist, but I’d be concerned about any movement of keel relative to 
the boat and would want to have it checked out by a marine surveyor while it’s 
out of the water.

 

Dean

BarraWind

C&C 34

Halifax NS  

_

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: C&C 37/40R for sale - Britt Chance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

For your winter amusement, here are a couple articles about the Chance 70 I 
raced on in the ‘70s.  You’ll note that some of the photos show two masts, some 
show one.  Bob Way (a great guy) liked to constantly mess with his boats.  
Masker II was a Cal 39(?), which was a Cal 40 he shortened.  He installed 
aluminum ribs on that boat after cracking the hull.  The Chance 70 was the 
third Masker, but it was not called Masker III (contrary to the article).  
There was Masker, Masker II (the Cal), and The Masker (which some of us 
endearingly referred to as The Massacre).  It was also known as the Big Blue 
Canoe. 

 

https://www.erieyachtclub.org/s/NovDec15LOG.pdf

 

https://www.erieyachtclub.org/s/septoct04.pdf

 

 

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2021 1:18 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 37/40R for sale - Britt Chance

 

I sailed a Vic-Maui and a Pan Am Clipper Cup in 1982 on a Britt Chance designed 
54’ Boat named “Glory”. I was one of the foredeck crew and a watch captain. 

 

The owner’s design brief may have mentioned the desire for PNW style light air 
performance but; when that boat went faster than 14 knots it became 
unpredictable in which direction the bow would go when the surf ended. Ergo: 
“You take a chance with Chance.”

 

The 1982 Vic-Maui included some very light air and several days of tropical 
storm reinforced trade winds in the 25 to 35 TWS range.  One dark and stormy 
night, flying the “chicken shute” my watch (3 of us) experienced those night 
time sailing conditions that are like “Mr. Toads wild ride”. The instrument 
delay made them useless so we used the compass to determine “home base” as a 
course that was usually not by the lee and the lighted Windex for a general 
idea of the apparent wind angle.

 

My standard instructions for the helmsman in such conditions is, if a 
broach/roundup/spin out anticipated, is to rotate towards the pole. A 
controlled spin out towards the pole is often a quick recovery vs a round down. 
On the windiest night over a 4 hour watch we spun out 3 to 4 times.

 

So, our watch ends and the next watch comes on deck. I drove an extra 10 
minutes to allow the new watch some time to acclimatize and pass on some of 
what we had learned. I handed the wheel over to the resident “rock star” 
sailmaker and moved forward to the center cockpit. My watch decided to stay on 
deck as the conditions were deteriorating and expected the call to douse the 
spinnaker soon. A short time later the “rock star” totally lost the plot a 
drove deep by the lee. The boat rounded down so suddenly the helmsman ended up 
ass over tea kettle to leeward. 

 

The mainsail, in its attempt to gyre broke the preventer which then got hung up 
on a coffee grinder handle pinning the main to windward. The mast was slapping 
the bigger wave tops. As I was closest to the fouled preventer I pulled out my 
rigging knife got real low and cut the taut line. The mainsail immediately 
swung to leeward allowing the boat to pop upright. With the boat upright the 
spinnaker pops full and the boat accelerates quickly. Unfortunately the 
helmsman did not have time to correct his helm spinning the boat into an 
immediate round up thus completing a full mid-ocean “banana split.  As the 
gyrations tossed the crew belowdecks out of their bunks the owner/skipper 
called for the spinnaker douse. We spent the next 36 hours under twin headsails.

 

The 1982 Clipper Cup was also windier than typical which also didn’t favor this 
particular Britt Chance design.  On YouTube there is a film about the 1982 
Clipper Cup. In the first minute or so “Glory” passes through the screen. It’s 
a white boat with multiple blue stripes. Up on the bow I can be seen doing 
something with the sail.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle





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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 37/40R for sale - Britt Chance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I raced around Lake Erie on a Chance 70 for a summer many moons ago.  The boat 
was fast and typically took line honors, but did poorly on corrected time.  It 
was rumored that it was slow because the owner, who also built the boat, beefed 
it up during construction to make it more robust (and also heavier than 
designed).  It had a centerboard raised by a coffee grinder located down below. 
 Good times.

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2021 1:18 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 37/40R for sale - Britt Chance

 

I sailed a Vic-Maui and a Pan Am Clipper Cup in 1982 on a Britt Chance designed 
54’ Boat named “Glory”. I was one of the foredeck crew and a watch captain. 

 

The owner’s design brief may have mentioned the desire for PNW style light air 
performance but; when that boat went faster than 14 knots it became 
unpredictable in which direction the bow would go when the surf ended. Ergo: 
“You take a chance with Chance.”

 

The 1982 Vic-Maui included some very light air and several days of tropical 
storm reinforced trade winds in the 25 to 35 TWS range.  One dark and stormy 
night, flying the “chicken shute” my watch (3 of us) experienced those night 
time sailing conditions that are like “Mr. Toads wild ride”. The instrument 
delay made them useless so we used the compass to determine “home base” as a 
course that was usually not by the lee and the lighted Windex for a general 
idea of the apparent wind angle.

 

My standard instructions for the helmsman in such conditions is, if a 
broach/roundup/spin out anticipated, is to rotate towards the pole. A 
controlled spin out towards the pole is often a quick recovery vs a round down. 
On the windiest night over a 4 hour watch we spun out 3 to 4 times.

 

So, our watch ends and the next watch comes on deck. I drove an extra 10 
minutes to allow the new watch some time to acclimatize and pass on some of 
what we had learned. I handed the wheel over to the resident “rock star” 
sailmaker and moved forward to the center cockpit. My watch decided to stay on 
deck as the conditions were deteriorating and expected the call to douse the 
spinnaker soon. A short time later the “rock star” totally lost the plot a 
drove deep by the lee. The boat rounded down so suddenly the helmsman ended up 
ass over tea kettle to leeward. 

 

The mainsail, in its attempt to gyre broke the preventer which then got hung up 
on a coffee grinder handle pinning the main to windward. The mast was slapping 
the bigger wave tops. As I was closest to the fouled preventer I pulled out my 
rigging knife got real low and cut the taut line. The mainsail immediately 
swung to leeward allowing the boat to pop upright. With the boat upright the 
spinnaker pops full and the boat accelerates quickly. Unfortunately the 
helmsman did not have time to correct his helm spinning the boat into an 
immediate round up thus completing a full mid-ocean “banana split.  As the 
gyrations tossed the crew belowdecks out of their bunks the owner/skipper 
called for the spinnaker douse. We spent the next 36 hours under twin headsails.

 

The 1982 Clipper Cup was also windier than typical which also didn’t favor this 
particular Britt Chance design.  On YouTube there is a film about the 1982 
Clipper Cup. In the first minute or so “Glory” passes through the screen. It’s 
a white boat with multiple blue stripes. Up on the bow I can be seen doing 
something with the sail.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle





On Dec 8, 2021, at 6:13 PM, David Risch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 Britt Chance was a one horse pony 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android 

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C 37/40R for sale

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

A friend of mine who sails with me on my C&C 29-1 has seen this boat and
may be interested.  Anyone got any comments to make that would be helpful
to him.

He's here in San Francisco and the boat is in BC so that's one problem

1989 C&C 40R Plus 37R Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld


Thanks

Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Not surprisingly, my 1976 42 Custom is set up for a symmetrical chute (track 
with car on the front of the mast).  FWIW, when I bought a whisker pole for 
main and jib racing, I upgraded the fitting on the mast car to accept the 
end-fitting of the whisker pole.  I also replaced the end-fitting of the spin 
pole, so both the whisker pole and the spin pole attach to the same mast car 
fitting. 

 

 

On Nov 18, 2021, at 10:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Bruce,

 

Do you have a track running up the front of your mast? If so, you would measure 
the track width and buy a ring car that would fit it. 

 

If not, you need to install the track and the appropriate ring car. The ring 
should not be in a fixed position as you will find higher and lower settings to 
be faster in different wind conditions. You’d also want to be able to send the 
car upwards to effectively dip the pole when jibing. 

 

DO NOT attached a pole to the gooseneck in your photo. That is a disaster 
waiting to happen. Seriously. Very bad. We’re talking mass hysteria. Dogs and 
cats living together…. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

 

 








 






 

On Nov 18, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hello all,

 

I was wondering if you folks can give me some advice as to rigging a whisker 
pole on our 37/40+.  The boat, which has spent a good part of its time on the 
west coast of Florida, was previously named "Dagny" and saw its share of races. 
 Yet, the boat does not have a whisker pole ring/car on the front of the mast, 
and does not have a whisker pole onboard.  Nor does it have the equipment for a 
spinnaker pole, though the boat came with a symmetrical spinnaker.

 

I'd like to rig a whisker pole for use with our 150 Genoa and a large 
asymmetrical spinnaker.  

 

Funny thing is, at the gooseneck, there is a bolt that holds the two pieces 
together that has a ring mounted at the bottom.  I don't think it would get the 
perfect angle, but would it be that easy to rig the pole to that ring?  A photo 
of that bolt/ring can be found here:  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0

 

The 150 and the asymmetrical will both have the clew behind the mast most if 
not all the time I would be using it.  In the case of the big asymmetrical, I 
think it might be so far back as to bank up against the rigging, though 
obviously I haven't used one on this boat as of yet.

 

Can anyone provide any insights?  

 

Thank you!!!




Bruce Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Main Halyard Lower Sheave Box on the 36-1.

[Matthew via CnC-List]

The exit box for the main halyard on my 42 Custom ripped out of the mast
several years ago on a breezy day just before a race.  Rather than repair it
back to its former self, I decided to cover the hole with a stainless plate
and began using a mast-mounted winch for the main (the old fashioned set
up).  This has worked well as the Tides system makes the main very easy to
hoist, and it's almost up by the time I go to the winch.  In addition, the
new arrangement freed up a deck winch, which I no longer use or need.  As a
result, this past spring I reduced the number of deck winches around the
mast from six to four.

 

If you like your current arrangement and you can't access the sheave, I
would try buying a new exit box that can be adapted to fit in the same
location. 

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 5:57 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Main Halyard Lower Sheave Box on the 36-1.

 

Hello. Two years ago, I swapped out the rope to wire halyards on Talisman
and replaced the mast sheaves at the top of the mast. All working great
except the main halyard. It tends to bind up the last few feet and on the
36-1 there is a bottom exit centerline sheave box where the main halyard
exits just above the deck. Since it was designed to handle wire I am
assuming this may be the culprit. I pulled it yesterday and it is a complete
welded unit so you can not easily replace the sheave like the masthead. Has
anyone replaced this and any advice? Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Ditto to what Bill said.  I wrap the furler with a heavy towel or blanket to 
protect it and the deck.  When the mast is down, I tie the forestay to the mast 
for storage, including the wrapped drum.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2021 8:49 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

 

The drum comes up with it. Pretty hard to take it apart. I bring a heavy towel 
or blanket, and wrap it around the drum a few times, and tape it up so it 
doesn't scuff the deck up

Bill

 

On Sat, Nov 13, 2021, 8:44 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello CnCers, 

 

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses. 

 

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison

1979 C&C 34

Rekofa

Fells Point, MD





On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.

 

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Jim Watts mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

 

The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.

 

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

 

The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Zephyrwerks is an excellent source for custom-made sheaves if you cannot find 
something off the shelf that fits.  I had three masthead sheaves made since we 
lowered my mast about a month ago.  Ed (the owner) suggested replacing the worn 
pins as well, so he made a set (including welding the C&C plate on the end).  
The new sheaves and pins are already back on the mast and ready to go for next 
year.  Very professional; very prompt.

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 3:12 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

 

https://www.rigrite.com/

 

https://www.zephyrwerks.com/

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Nov 9, 2021 at 1:58 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I am looking for some 2” sheaves for the end of my boom (4).  I believe the old 
ones were Delrin or some sort of plastic and the sun took its tool.  I believe 
someone had a very good source for sheaves on the list.

 

Rod Stright

Halifax




 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Main halyard shackle

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Last spring I replaced my rope/wire genny halyards with all rope.  I have a 
roller-furler.  In discussing shackle options to reduce the chance of catching 
during furling, my rigger questioned why I was bothering with a shackle at all. 
 My Harken furling unit came with a twisted D or something on the part that is 
hoisted.  The rigger spliced an eye in the new rope halyard to connect to the 
furler shackle, and it worked fine all season.  Unlike almost everything else 
spinning around up there, the spliced eye on the replacement halyard was not 
beat up or worn at all.

 

The shackle on my main halyard is, I believe, specifically made for head 
boards.  I like the blue Wichard one, which I believe they call a “thimble” 
shackle.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 8:17 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Main halyard shackle

 

I don’t use a snap shackle any more for the jib, since it stays up for months 
at a time or more. It is a screw-in shackle with safety wire holding it.

The main shackle is one that screws in and out. It has never loosened itself. I 
think the longest the main has been up continuously is maybe 6 or 7 days and it 
did fine.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2021 7:52 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Main halyard shackle

 

My boat came with a main halyard shackle of a type I have never seen anywhere 
else.  It has a pivoting arm that swings up after inserting through the 
headboard and secured with a threaded pin.  It has worked fine for years and 
easy to remove and attach, which I do routinely when done sailing for the day.  
Recently, I twice found it nearly completely unscrewed after a day of rough 
weather sailing, and that is concerning.  I don’t want to lose the halyard up 
the mast.  I am considering replacing it this winter with a standard snap 
shackle of the sort used on my genoa halyard.  I looked at a rigging company 
web site and they used snap shackles for genoa halyards and pin shackles for 
main halyards.  The logic of that escapes me.   On my boat, I take down the 
roller furling genoa only a few times a season while the main halyard is 
detached every time I go sailing.  I have no idea what the forces are on the 
main halyard but I would not think much greater than the genoa.  Any words of 
wisdom, or reason not to use a snap shackle for the main?  Thanks- Dave

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: C&C 41 Mainsheet question

[Matthew via CnC-List]

A friend of mine has a 41, and it is obvious that his traveler was moved from 
the cockpit to the cabin top.  Don’t know if he relocated it or it was done at 
the factory.

 

From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 8:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: G Donald Wagner 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 41 Mainsheet question

 

Joe 

 

My C&C 41 CB  traveler is mounted across the bridge deck and was factory 
installed

 

Don Wagner 

C&C 41 CB

Der Baron



-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Sent: Tue, Nov 9, 2021 7:39 am
Subject: Stus-List C&C 41 Mainsheet question

I have seen 41s with the traveler across the cabin top, across the bridge deck, 
and across the cockpit just forward of the wheel.

Are all 3 of these factory configurations or did they all start in the same 
place?

 

 

Joe Della Barba  Coquina C&C 35 MK I

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Re: Perry on Ball

[Matthew via CnC-List]

You never lived in Philly.

 

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2021 4:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Stus-List Re:  Re: Perry on Ball

 

I actually stayed in the Hotel California in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay back in 
2015. It is the stolen car capitol of the world, I’m told.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, November 4, 2021 3:17 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject:  Stus-List Re: Perry on Ball

 

♪  You can check out any time you like, 

♫But you can never leave! ♪

 

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Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I would add the following additional information to Bill’s note below.  The 
slip for Bill’s boat is about six slips away from mine.  This past spring my 
West System guru faired a few hull bumps that resulted from prior balsa core 
repairs.  When he was finished, we put two additional coats of Interlux barrier 
coat on for good measure.  After doing so, I learned that the barrier coat is 
incompatible with the bottom paint I purchased without sanding and applying a 
solvent, so I decided to launch the boat without bottom paint and let nature do 
some of the work.  I pulled the boat in August, power-washed a considerable 
amount of vegetative growth that had accumulated (including the spider web kind 
Bill described), and put the boat back in the water.  I hauled the boat for the 
season about three weeks ago, and what a mess!  Not only had the vegetative 
growth returned, but nearly the entire bottom was covered with zebra mussels.  
Power-washing got most of it off, but I have some additional work to do (which 
I needed to do anyway).

 

The bottom line: as confirmed by the condition of my boat at haul out, Bill’s 
bottom paint works very well in freshwater conditions.  

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2021 2:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paints Again

 

I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in the spring 
that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in the fall, so here it 
is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else going on in the NE, so . ..

 

The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago the results 
were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul out guys (and girl) were 
in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat the have hauled this year.

 

There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few inches, 
mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was amazingly clean. Of 
note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 years or so there has been some 
new growth that no one seems to know anything about, looks like a spider web 
growing all over the bottom, and there was NONE of that. No Zebra Mussels, 
nothing.

It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the previous 
year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure washer. Also, it called 
for two initial coats, I only used one. It goes on nice, and what I liked is 
that there is no heavy copper falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep 
stirring it as you go. In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, 
Three Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One of the 
guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the last race two weeks 
before his final haulout, and his bottom was a mess, complete with ‘spiderwebs’ 
and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to see how much scum was back on 2 weeks later.

 

I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

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Stus-List Re: GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Todd:

 

As others have said, I would be more concerned about what 
caused the mast step crack than the crack itself.  I had a 1978 C&C 34 and did 
not have that issue.  All kinds of tabbing problems, but nothing with the mast 
step.  I agree that removing it to see what’s going on is the most prudent 
course of action, especially if the crack is allowing water to seep downward.  
Once you’re satisfied that the support is sound, I would call South Shore 
Yachts (Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON) to see if they have a direct replacement.  If 
not, I would have a replacement made of stainless steel as Bill suggested.

 

My two cents.

 

Matt

 

From: Todd Williams via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2021 11:39 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Todd Williams 
Subject: Stus-List GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

 

Well, yesterday, the boat was hauled out for the winter... time to get busy 
before winter sets in for Upstate NY. We had a great summer of sailing on our 
new to us 1980 C&C34 which we named Indigo Out We Go.

 

1 - There are some chips in the gelcoat, especially around the perimeter of the 
transom. What is the best way to go about color matching my beautiful blue 
gelcoat? Is this a factory color that I can reference by name or number at a 
marine supply store and get tinted? (See Photos for nice blue color)

 

2 - I bought Indigo with a cracked mast step plate. We sailed all summer with 
it, even up to 25+ knot gusts. I see no evidence of movement. I called an 
aluminum welder and he told me it would be tough to adequately reconnect the 
plate without knowing the alloy and grinding down the plate so the keelbolt 
doesn't crack it again (not sure if that is the original cause). Should I be 
concerned with this crack? Where am I likely to find a replacement part? (See 
Photos)

 

PHOTOS - https://photos.app.goo.gl/XNxxNMUeBmkdUkyHA

 

Thanks for the information on various threads all summer, I have learned a lot!

 

TODD

Sodus Bay, NY

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Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review

[Matthew via CnC-List]

And throw some used cotter pins on his deck.

 

From: WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 8:42 AM
To: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fwd: Read Sarah’s review

 

No, I say we flood his inbox, and drill holes in his hull...

Bill Walker

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

This issue came up when I moved from Travelers to Progressive this past spring. 
 I went through a local Erie Insurance agent, where I have home and car 
insurance.  When I realized how much Travelers had increased its premium over 
three years (without apparent justification), I called my Erie Insurance agent 
to see if Erie has gotten into boat insurance.  It still has not, but my agent 
brokered a deal with Progressive.  One of the policy differences between the 
Travelers and Progressive policies is Progressive’s lower amount of liability 
coverage.  My Erie agent advised this was of no consequence because of my 
umbrella policy with Erie.

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

Erie, PA 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 1:57 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

 

All the umbrella policies I found with a quick search seem to be home and car, 
no mention of boats ☹

Be glad you aren’t looking for airplane insurance, the recent payouts on 
crashed 737s are getting paid for by EVERYONE, not just 737 owners.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Sad day.  If you left a manual or device on board, someday you may have to
give them a "piece of the action."

 

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2021 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2

 

Captain's Log: Stardate 11276.2

This was the final cruise of the Starship Enterprise (NCC-1701-B) under my
command. This ship, and her history, will shortly become the care of another
crew. To them and their posterity will we commit our future. They will
continue the voyages we have begun, and journey to all the undiscovered
countries, boldly going where no man, or no one, has gone before.

 

https://forums.sailinganarchy.com/uploads/monthly_2021_05/262982986_01Scan10
043.JPG.6fbb5975e3cbfdabb3489ace4df4267f.JPG 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

 

 








 






 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Samarai douse?

 

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2021 2:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Randy Stafford 

Subject: Stus-List Re: leeward layline

 

Yes, I had to file a report with the Foredeck Union on Sunday, as my helmsman 
gybed my boat before I was ready to gybe the spin pole, and of course there was 
an unfortunate wind shift at that exact moment too, and as a result we had a 
general spinnaker shit show that required a complete douse to sort out, while 
our main competitor with whom we’d been overlapped and in a tactical duel 
sailed away from us.

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Oct 6, 2021, at 10:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hi Bob

 

If you are happy with your speed on current angle then gybe when true wind 
angle is the same on the opposite gybe.  Sure sounds simple but most of us gybe 
too late or too early.

 

Too early on a light wind day means that you will end up sailing deeper and 
slower than you intended or performing extra gybes.

 

Too late on a breezy day means that you will end up with wind more forward than 
you would prefer and perhaps have a bit of a sporty approach to the mark

 

And of course contrary to what most tacticians and drivers like to think gybing 
does involve sail handling and a potential for error.  This can be detrimental 
to boat speed since not all gybes are performed equally and some can in fact be 
very amusing to your competitors.  This fact is why there is a Foredeck Union

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Matthew via CnC-List]

A fellow C&C owner and I unstepped our masts two days ago.  Our masts are too 
big for the yard’s manual lift, so we arranged for a crane truck to do the 
heavy lifting.  We were both ready when the truck arrived, and we finished in 
less an hour.  The minimum for the truck is two hours, which cost $286.50 
(roughly $150 each).  Going back up in the spring will be about the same.  If 
you paid $3K for the crane, you overpaid by an order of magnitude.

 

Rod rigging is another story.

 

From: Doug via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2021 3:03 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Doug 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

 

Jim,

I went to port Townsend rigging, was quoted $13k for all new standing rigging. 
Ended up with an $18k bill. $3k just for the crane to pull and restep the mast. 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah 

C & C Landfall 39

Port Orchard Yacht Club 

Port Orchard, WA

 

 

 Original message 

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 10/1/21 10:52 (GMT-08:00) 

To: 1 CnC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Jim Watts  

Subject: Stus-List Mast in and out 

 

As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a cost 
for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I thought $1500 
was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our 29-2, so maybe 
prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to what kind of costs 
folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if this is reasonable. I 
also recently got a quote for $4500 which then ballooned to $9000 and counting 
to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does this sound at all in the ballpark?


 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Perfect boat

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Yes, perfection -- like beauty -- is in the eye of the beholder.

-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2021 12:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Perfect boat


My daughter asked me last weekend if I ever thought of getting a bigger boat, 
and after a moment I said no. Open water is fifty miles from me, so I'm a river 
sailor. My 24 is perfect for that. There's no engine issues to deal with. 
There's very little wood to maintain. Everything about the boat is (relatively) 
inexpensive and low maintenance. Slip rental is within my budget. I can 
single-hand. If I want, I could spend an overnight or two. It's good for taking 
my children or grandchildren out for a spin, and it allows me high-quality 
alone time. So, the perfect boat is as much about your use as well as your 
dreams. For a first - and only - boat, I don't think I could have done better.

On 10/1/2021 10:58 AM, T Sutton via CnC-List wrote:
> Interesting choice and glad to hear I’m not the only one.  I had a 25 
> Mk I then a 33 MkII C/B and after a number of weeks spent each summer 
> in the North Channel of Lake Huron and a few passages in less than 
> ideal conditions I started looking for a 37+ which I thought would be 
> the ideal boat but after looking at a few I decided it was just too 
> big for myself and the Admiral especially considering that we have to 
> pull our masts and boats every fall and put them back together in the 
> spring and the option of paying to have it done doesn’t exist unless I 
> change harbours.  So I thought the 34+ would be a better fit and then 
> I came across the Saga 35 which promised the speed of a 37+ in a 
> package more the size of a 34+ and it is made by the some of the same 
> craftsmen as C&C.  Long story short, I now have a Saga 35 but still 
> not perfect and I’m not even sure if it is any better than the 34+ 
> would be. Bottom line, there is no such thing as the perfect boat but 
> there are a number of C&C’s that come as close as one can hope for 
> especially for the price and considering the newest ones are now a 
> quarter century old and some of the classics more than half a century.  
> The sailing community owes a lot to the two Georges, three if you include Mr. 
> Hinterhoeller.
> Cheers,
> Tom S
> *From:* John Conklin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 30, 2021 7:19 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* John Conklin
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Perfect boat
> I am liking the SAGA 43
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
>
>> On Sep 30, 2021, at 6:56 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Off shore cruising boat kraken amel maybe a C&C On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 
>> at 9:50 PM Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>> I am sitting on Rebecca Leah with fellow C&C owner Jacob Fuerst.
>> We are discussing the perfect boat. What is the perfect cruising
>> boat? What is the perfect weekender? Perfect race boat? If you
>> commissioned a one off boat would it be the perfect boat?
>>
>> Just asking
>>
>> Doug
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> sv Rebecca Leah
>> C & C Landfall 39
>> Port Orchard Yacht Club
>> Port Orchard, WA
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
>> help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
>> the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> --
>> Joel Delamirande
>> *www.jdroofing.ca
>> > jdroofing.ca%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C34d4c05a83324e22c6ec08d98400fd4d%7C
>> 84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637685962045437513%7CUnkno
>> wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwi
>> LCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=GNn9IGz0oT5uTO2rXyxAJcxodnbu%2FjEBiV0n8to
>> PVX8%3D&reserved=0>* Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
>> contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want 
>> to show your support to the list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> -- Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
> list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C&C 24
Labelle, FL USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want 

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks, Dave.  I will try leaving the pump on next time I venture out in the 
really fun stuff.

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 9:30 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

 

 I had this happen on my previous boat with a Yanmar and I suspect I know why.  
I think the problem was getting air in the fuel lines as the pickup was 
sometimes not in the diesel as the boat bounced around when the tank is not 
full.  There was no electric fuel pump so you had to manually bleed the system 
to get the air out.  One thing I really like about the Universal with the 
electric fuel pump in my current boat is those air bubbles will be purged by 
the system if the fuel pump is left on with the engine not running.   Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT








On Sep 28, 2021, at 8:47 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Is your friend certain of the cause?  My Westerbeke also does not like to start 
after bouncing around in the big waves (especially following a knock-down).  My 
diesel mechanic (Andy H) has been thinking about the cause for years.  It is 
not a clogged filter problem in our case.  Fortunately, I have always been able 
to get it started, but it takes a lot of turning over.  Good thing I have 
sufficient battery reserve.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 5:44 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

 

This is the second boat I have sprung for that double Racor.

A friend of mine finished up a race in Buffalo  with a 30Kt West wind and his 
engine wouldn’t start.  He had a hell of a time getting in  out of the waves 
without something bad happening. After hearing his story,  (Clogged filter, of 
course)  I thought, I don’t want that to happen to me – and I replaced mine. 
Engine starts to stutter, check the gauge, and flip the handle to the clean 
filter and keep on going.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Is your friend certain of the cause?  My Westerbeke also does not like to start 
after bouncing around in the big waves (especially following a knock-down).  My 
diesel mechanic (Andy H) has been thinking about the cause for years.  It is 
not a clogged filter problem in our case.  Fortunately, I have always been able 
to get it started, but it takes a lot of turning over.  Good thing I have 
sufficient battery reserve.

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 5:44 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

 

This is the second boat I have sprung for that double Racor.

A friend of mine finished up a race in Buffalo  with a 30Kt West wind and his 
engine wouldn’t start.  He had a hell of a time getting in  out of the waves 
without something bad happening. After hearing his story,  (Clogged filter, of 
course)  I thought, I don’t want that to happen to me – and I replaced mine. 
Engine starts to stutter, check the gauge, and flip the handle to the clean 
filter and keep on going.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: parting out 1972 C&C frigate

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I am interested in teak molding.  Will that be parted out as well?

 

From: Jim Lockhart via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jim Lockhart 
Subject: Stus-List parting out 1972 C&C frigate

 

Hello 

I am parting out my 1972 C&C 36 Frigate. Curious if you can offer any guidance 
or suggestions best way to do through your group?

 

Boat is in Ontario Canada!

Alum Deck stepped Mast with all standing rigging.

Boom and Spin pole

Harken RF for 36 ft vessel

All sails two mains, two jibs (one RF, second hank on)  one genny

Lead keel 4000lbs

Barlow winches (2- 26,2- 24, 1- 16) all in good working order.

Edison Cable pedestal steering with binnacle compass

Steel Rudder

Plus all rigging and blocks.

 

Appreciate your feedback.

 

 

CHEERS

Jim Lockhart

Regional Sales Manager Central Canada



519-697-8567

j.lockh...@saltosystems.com  

http://www.saltosystems.com  

SALTO is a Commander in the 2021 Access Control Index 

Read the report   here

 

.  

 

 

 

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printing this e-mail.

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting 
department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.  
After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.

 

Matt Wolford

1976 C&C 42 Custom

 

From: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Glenn Henderson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

 

Did they require a full survey?

 

Glenn and Lindsey Henderson

C&C 41

WeGo

 

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my 
insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check, I 
asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of insurance was 
$487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That is not how my Progressive policy reads according to the agent.  I 
specifically reviewed with her what happens if I’m dismasted and a replacement 
mast costs $30K.  I have an agreed upon value of $50K on the boat.  According 
to the agent, the mast will be replaced (minus the deductible, of course).

 

I guess I better look again.

 

 

On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:23 AM rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Just looked into it and Progressive is only liability coverage for boats over 
20 years old. If your boat gets struck by lighting or sinks you get $0. Guess 
I'll stick with Geico. I got struck by lightning last year and they fixed 
everything. Yes it is expensive.  Correct me if I'm wrong.

Rocky

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That was why I left Boat US / GEICO in the first place - that whole reduced
value to 20% baloney.  I switched to Travelers, which had a good policy but
dramatically increased its annual premium the last three years.  As a
result, I'm now with Progressive.

 

I'm the kind of person who likes to find a good policy with reasonable rates
and stick with it.  For boat insurance, however, it pays to shop around.

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 9:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Andy Frame ; David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

 

Check the fine print.   Ask the question.   If I lose the mast

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Persistence, Mike.  Persistence.

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 8:34 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

 

There are no CNG filling stations for cars in our region.  The nearest is in 
the Montreal area which is over 1000KM from Halifax.  

 

We do have a testing station with our gas company that pump capable of filling 
our canisters.  My understanding is that it takes nearly 3 hours to fill one …  
They have been kind enough to accommodate me with my one tank.

 

Our main issue is that we need to have these tanks DOT 3 certified in Canada 
every 3 years.  The US certification is not accepted here.  This means finding 
a company willing to perform hydrostatic testing and certification of the tanks 
every five years.  That has proven difficult but we have located one that is 
only 3 hours from Halifax.  Most Dive shops and Fire and Safety shops do not 
wish to work with CNG cylinders and are also unfamiliar with them.  

 

Finding some place to buy them new is even more difficult.  Corp Brothers was 
the eastern supplier but they have been purchased I believe by Air Liquide and 
there was a West Coast company as well but it is long gone.  Any Google 
searches of CNG cylinders turns up large industrial sizes or the ones for using 
on cars and trucks.  These are much larger than the ones used for marine stove 
fuel, very expensive and totally unsuitable.

 

This brings me back to the other option.  Replacing with a propane oven.  That 
would mean a very expensive conversion to the existing oven if even possible at 
this time or discarding a very well working appliance and purchasing a new one 
(not where I really want to spend boat bucks).  It also means finding a storage 
location for a propane tank on a boat that does not have a propane locker.  
That would be a huge job or would involve the ugly solution of hanging a 
propane tank off the back of the boat.

 

So we have come full circle back to sourcing new CNG cylinders, finding a shop 
to perform hydrostatic testing and certification every five years and finding a 
re-filling station.  We are almost there!

 

An awful lot of bother to cook the odd breakfast and use the oven once a year

 

Thanks for reading

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

1987 Frers 33

www.hoytsailing.com  

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: September 23, 2021 6:39 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com  
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

 

I fill mine at the local CNG station that fills cars for about $2.50 or so.

My insurance company, Progressive, never asked about CNG or anything else.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

 

From: Doug via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2021 5:07 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Doug mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

 

Try a welding supply shop that also sells welding gasses. 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah 

C & C Landfall 39

Port Orchard Yacht Club 

Port Orchard, WA

 

 

 Original message 

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 9/23/21 12:39 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders 

 

This doesn't answer the question, but my insurance company (Geico through Boat 
US) made me remove the CNG cylinder from the boat stating it was a fire risk; I 
had to send proof that the tank was off of the boat before they would grant the 
insurance; the reason given was that it was mounted in the locker and not a 
separate enclosed space; since we rarely cook on board, that was the path of 
least resistance for me...anyone else experienced this? thanks

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu> >
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2021 3:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: cng cylinders

I seem to recall that CNG cylinders are SCUBA cylinders with a reverse thread 
so that they can't be mistaken for cylinders with O2 in them. When a tank is 
empty, it is exchanged for a full tank. Another choice is to have the local gas 
company fill your tank for you. You might check with a propane distributor, or 
with your local gas company.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 12:15 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

There are several p

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I’m also a Progressive customer.  Less money; better policy.

 

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2021 3:48 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Insurance

 

I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my 
insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check, I 
asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of insurance was 
$487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 41 thoughts?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

A friend of mine owns a 41 two slips down from me.  We went out sailing at the 
same time a couple weeks ago, and he walked right by (to leeward).  My 42 
Custom is rated 84 (with R/F), and I believe the 41 is rated about 10 seconds 
faster.  He was easily sailing that much faster with very little effort.

 

Beautiful boat.

 

From: Dave via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2021 9:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Glenn Henderson ; syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 41 thoughts?

 

Thanks Glenn, the short cockpit seats/big wheel are one of the compromises on 
my 33 as well.   I had seen seat-fillers on other boats, along with the 
traveller relocation, though I do like traveller and especially mainsheet 
access from the helm   Need to work those things out.   Am glad to hear that 
the much-maligned IOR influence doesn’t seem to make the boat any less 
enjoyable than it does with my 33-2.   I agree completely on windward ability – 
here in the Toronto area we spend much of our  time sailing to windward in 
light air, and I would be really frustrated with a boat that didn’t perform 
well in those conditions.Reinforces the point about buying the right boat 
for the conditions.I am unlikely to be roaring downwind in huge seas under 
full spin any time soon, nor will I be rounding the horn in this boat.

 

It appears (circumstantially) that the ’81-84 boats were customs or semi 
customs, typically racing biased.   This aligns with the perception of the 
production boat (most evident post-’84) as a racing-oriented but cruisable 
model defined by the constraints of IOR in its twilight.   Seems as though the 
custom was somewhat repurposed to a production model under a new leader – the 
Wikipedia comment cited below.   This further jives with the my understanding 
of the evolution of the IOR  -that dual purpose boats were not as competitive 
as in the past, and that the racer/cruiser niche was less relevant under this 
rule.   The 8’ draft of many examples does not suggest cruising as a priority 
but the existence of the CB model and the relatively posh cabin of the 
production model speak to C&C remaining centred in this racer/cruiser niche.  
It interesting to read all of this in the context of the marketplace at the 
time.   Long and the short of this appears to be that its a good fun boat 
depending on how one intends to use it.

 

Going to see the boat tomorrow.

 

Biggest concern I can see is ease of shorthanded/singlehanded sailing – this 
was probably not in scope for the design. My baseline is a 33-2, which is 
manageable, due to its handy size.Second concern is to buy at the right 
price - resale appeal is not as broad as it could be.

 

Glenn – do you single-hand the 41, and do you (or anyone else) have any wisdom 
you could share on this?

 

Thanks as always, Dave

 

   

 

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows

 

From: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List  
Sent: September 22, 2021 12:17 AM
To: Stus-List  
Cc: Glenn Henderson  
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 41 thoughts?

 

I have a 1984 41 and I love it. The hull is not a tortured IOR shape. It is 
fairly clean. She moves through the water very cleanly. She sails well in light 
or heavy air. She is perfectly balanced. She will sail upwind with the wheel 
brake on and sail like on an auto pilot. The Dollar/Boatspeed ratio is very 
high. I love the interior. Granted, she doesn't have as much room as a modern 
41 foot boat but it is well laid out and proportioned well. I love the Nav 
Station/Office. I put plywood "fillers" in the cockpit to extend the seating 
for cruising. I wouldn't cruise without them. I cannot cruise long distances in 
a slow boat or one that cannot go upwind.The 41 suits my purposes just fine.

 

Glenn Henderson

 

 

On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 11:01 PM G Donald Wagner via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dave 

 

I own a C&C 41 CB hull # 93, Der Baron. Bought her new in 1986, and have 
cruised/raced her ever since. We have enjoyed every minute aboard.

Many trophies, and many fine memories. My  crew and I , mostly very senior 
citizens, are not able to sail very much, so, I am considering the possibility 
of putting her up for sale.

 

If you have any specific questions about C&C 41s, I can answer most of them. 
They are great boats, easily sailed, and sail to the PHRF  Rating here on the 
Chesapeake. 

Feel free to call me, 443-994-5669, and We can talk about C&C 41s. I'm a 
dedicated C&Cer, Having previously owned a C&C 30 for 12 years prior to 
purchasing the 41.

 

Never had a Keel/ mast step issue on the 41 . I did experience it on the 30.

My boat is essentially like the standard brochure:

Tall 3 spreader rig

Yanmar 3GM35 HF

   Forward facing Nav Station

   aft quarter berth

Full spinnaker Gear with winch upgrades.

 

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I'm happy with my Nexus 2 masthead transducer.  It is wired, although a
wireless version is available.  It is now a Garmin unit, as Garmin acquired
Nexus several years ago.  My original transducer was damaged during a
knock-down, and Garmin had a replacement program that allowed me to turn in
the damaged unit for a new one for about $150.  Otherwise, Garmin's service
left much to be desired.  Perhaps it has improved since I dealt with them.

 

You'd need to talk to Garmin about compatibility issues.  If they don't give
you a quick answer, I'd move on.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2021 2:00 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List wind instrument

 

Hi,

 

I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The
main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the
EV-100 autopilot.

 

I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don't have a Raymarine MFC, though
(I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).

 

I am a minimalist (you could say "cheap"), so e.g., I don't have a Navpod on
the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the
chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).

 

I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.

 

I have a few questions:

 

- Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B&G)? My
first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to
an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this
is mainly to control the costs.

 

- With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed
the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don't think I need the detailed
wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the
wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not
required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with
that.

 

- Any strong recommendations against the wireless?

 

- Any other suggestions or recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 "Legato"

Ottawa, ON

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Keep an eye on the tracking.  There’s still a part for one of my winches 
sitting in a warehouse in California (for about five years now).

 

From: Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2021 5:44 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List Re: In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut

 

Thank you Dean and Doug!!

 

Allen Hutton replied to my email inquiry. $100 for the nut, $35 for shipping, 
3-4 weeks. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Lisle

 

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 12:49 AM Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Her’s their web address: http://www.huttonwinches.com/products/spares

 

Dean

BarraWind

C&C 34

Halifax, Nova Scotia





On Sep 21, 2021, at 1:02 AM, Doug via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

There is an outfit in Australia that has spare parts for barient and Barlow 
winches. The name escapes me..

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah 

C & C Landfall 39

Port Orchard Yacht Club 

Port Orchard, WA

 

 

 Original message 

From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 9/20/21 17:28 (GMT-08:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" mailto:lisle.king...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut 

 

Any chance anyone knows of somewhere I might be able to find a Barient 17 st 
winch retaining nut, the one on the top of the winch. I lost mine today 
unfortunately when I pulled on the jib sheet and the darn thing was loose and 
fell overboard. Been scouring the internet with not much luck so thought I 
would check with the list.

 

Thanks,

 

Lisle

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[Matthew via CnC-List]

That is not a safe assumption.  We did extensive repairs to the core below the 
waterline on my Custom 42, including from the keel back and the keel forward.  
Arguably, water in these areas resulted from failing to isolate thru-hulls and 
the prop shaft strut.  Two areas we did not consider, because there is no 
access point like a thru-hull, was amidships (port and starboard).  When we 
completed the work, we put over 10 coats of barrier coat on the bottom.

 

About four years ago I noticed blistering amidships, both port and starboard.  
You would think this is impossible – there is no way water got through all 
those barrier coats.  To access these areas, we needed to remove the water 
tanks on both sides and the diesel fuel tank (starboard).  Our conclusion, 
after scratching our heads, was that constant condensation under the tanks for 
45 years resulted in the core getting wet from the inside.  The inside glass 
was very thin in much of these areas.

 

There may be no bad balsa, but construction techniques can be a factor.  And 
there is water, and there is time.

 

Matt

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 9:21 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

 

There is no bad balsa.  Only bad owners (or prior owners)

 

I think it is safe to say that pretty much all water saturation of balsa is 
caused by poor bedding of  fittings

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, I’ve become somewhat of an expert myself.

 

From: JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2021 5:34 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

 

Rob Mazza is the expert in this specific topic 

 

JK

Motion Designs Limited

647 990 7752

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu