Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Peter, on our 33-ll I took the old ones off and had a local boat builder, 
Bruckmann, make new ones that I varnished at home. I would think a good 
cabinetmaker could do it too.

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From: Peter W. via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2023 8:27:52 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Peter W. 
Subject: Stus-List Hand rail replacement- sources

Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
with the existing holes in the deck.

Thanks,

Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C&C 30MKII
Irvington, Va.
Sent from my iPad
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I always bring mine home, think the extreme cold and dry weather when combined 
with the lack of use are bad for the seals.

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From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 6:48:48 PM
To: David Risch via CnC-List 
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for 
backstay

Went to a specialty hydralics shop to get mine fixed.  They couldn't don't.  
Went elsewhere and they did fine.  Still wasn't cheap. Done work on the 2 
hydralics and the pump.

Seems I do have periodic failures in the backstay and pump (seals) too often 
and usually experienced after the winter. Not sure if the winters up here play 
havoc with the seals but I've taken them off now in the fall. They're now 
stored indoors for the winter. Hoping to avoid the expensive and time consuming 
spring fixes.


Paul Hood
416.799.5549


 Original message 
From: David Risch via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-11-17 6:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for 
backstay


Just go to a local hydraulic shop.  Sorry as a Navtech “technician” ripped me 
off for two “re-builds” in two years at $500 an incompetent rebuild.  
Construction guys don’t tolerate that crap.   $100 once and done.   It is just 
a pump.



From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 2:12 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for 
backstay



I also like Lew, whom I contacted based on recommendations from this list.  
That said, he’s not from NJ (far from it), and shipping cost almost as much as 
the work.  Also, the rebuild work I had done was prophylactic, and my unit now 
has a very minor leak that it didn’t have before.  I’m sure he’d fix it if I 
sent it back. Bottom line: as much as I like Lew, I suggest finding someone 
local.

Sent from my iPhone



On Nov 17, 2023, at 1:37 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Second Lew Townsend.  He rebuilt mine after another Navtec rebuilder botched 
it.  Excellent to work with.



--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:55 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Lew Townsend did all my Navtec hydraulic repairs. Don't know whether he does 
Sailtec, but you can call him at (206) 498-7282. He does quality work. Others 
on the list have also used him.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR







On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 6:36 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Good morning All,



Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival we 
noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. Does anyone 
have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them in the NJ area?



They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do business 
with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support local businesses 
but also want a quality job. Any suggestions appreciated.



Thanks and have a great weekend,



Allen Miles

30 Mk II, Septima

Bayville, NJ

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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Or foredeck cows if you have bee, on the list long enough

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From: David Risch via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2023 6:10:39 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34


Wow…mucho emails about winch servicing.   Almost as popular as what anchor is 
best?





From: cenelson--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 8:13 PM
To: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34



You can get a winch service kit from Lewmar/Defender/West Marine with grease, 
pawls, springs, etc for a few bucks.



Clean them up, replace any bad springs/pawls, light oil on the pawls, grease 
(from kit) on spindles/teeth (?), reassemble and you will be likely as good as 
new. There are Lewmar assembly diagrams on-line but if you are careful not to 
lose any parts AND take one winch apart at a time so the other is there for a 
guide, and you should be fine. Its one of those dirty jobs but simple enough to 
do. Once you have done one, the next is much faster plus you don't need any 
special tools.



Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom



On Tuesday, September 12, 2023, 07:20:44 PM EDT, Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:





Mike and others who have provided valuable input,



This information on electric is very useful.  I wasn't intending to purchase 
electric in any case due to cost.



I went to boat this afternoon.  Ashamed to say I did not even know what size 
the existing winches are.  They are Lewmar/England 42ST, likely original to 
boat, therefore 42 years old.  From what I am hearing from everyone, a Lewmar 
42ST should be adequate for a C&C34.  But man, even in 12 knts wind it takes 
the full strength of two crew to get the last 2 feet in.  I was sensing that 
the winch handle was about to break.



After reading more this afternoon, I am sure the winches are way past due for 
servicing.  Lewmar recommends 2 to 3 times a season!  This may be part, if not 
all, of the problem.  I suspect the winches were disassembled and greased about 
10 to 12 years ago. Before that, who knows.



Is a set of 42 year old winches worth disassembling, cleaning, greasing, and 
reassembling?  Will this result in a significant improvement?  What parts of 
the winch typically need to be replaced and can those Lewmar parts be obtained 
for such an old winch?



Thanks again for all the very helpful advice on winch sizes.



Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34 Harmony

Ludington, MI





From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 2:43 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C&C34



Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the primaries.  
There were no secondaries.  For cruising ease the primaries had been located 
where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations for the original 
primaries were faired and painted over.  The second set of manual Lewmar 43ST 
winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard winches.  THIS WAS WAY 
OVERKILL!



ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary.  Jib trimmers facing 
backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least.  So we moved the cabin top 
Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin top 
halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe)



This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST.  First of all an electric winch 
can be nasty.  An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using one.  We 
always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch.  Secondly these 
were AWFUL to maintain.  To service the winches the motor has to be dropped 
from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and lubricate the gears, 
pawls, etc …  Due to this and due to the lack of accessibility from beneath to 
do this these winches were rarely serviced and never properly.  When running 
the spinnaker on these secondaries they were stiff and made spin handling more 
problematic than it should be (due to the lack of east servicing).



In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a set 
of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes.  On top of the ease 
of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors took away a LOT 
of unnecessary weight



Just a story I thought I would share



We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34



Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, beli

Stus-List Re: 33-2 Spinnaker Track on Mast

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Bottom of this page 
http://hollandmarine.com/hmp-flipbook-2022/flipbook/index.html?page=312 is 
what's on my 33-11 I believe.Still asleep for the winter so I can't check yet. 
Sout shore yachts may have as well.

Paul

From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2023 12:07:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: and...@apwengineering.com 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 Spinnaker Track on Mast


Good day everyone!

Here is a follow up to my thread on getting Tryfan setup for symmetrical…

https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/ZTKX7WZTWTNJOHJJ2QF6BBSIOE6ZBGXE

First of all - confession - I did something stupid :-(

I purchased 1.25” T-Track and while mounting I realized I was drilling (and 
tapping) into plastic cover for slot extrusion on the front of the mast. I did 
end up putting all 21 screws and will work OK in very light to light air but 
need to redo the work to make solid.

I suspect this is the “Z-Spar” mast (did a little research) and that the 
extruded slot on the front of the mast will accept some sort of car for the 
inboard end of the pole.

So as far as I can see my options are as follows:

  1.  Track down a car (and hardware) that will fit in the slot (this would 
likely need blocks with cleats as well

  2.  Figure out a way to mount the T track with spacers, so I can actually 
drill / tap into the mast. I read something about an inset, but could only be 
mounted when the mast is down (don’t want to do that). What about teflon 
spacers that are the thickness of the depth of the slot that I could slide up 
from the bottom of the track - 1 for each screw, and just have longer screws?

Anybody been down this road before have any suggestions?

Thanks!

Andy

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Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I ve used Sportech Sails in St Catherine’s for sails and canvas work for a 
while now. Been very happy with Jamie’s work

Paul

From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2023 10:28:13 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker


Hello everyone,



Time for Freya to get a new Mainsail and Headsail (135%-150% furling dacron).  
Any preferred sailmakers in the Greater Toronto Area?



Thanks



Glen Eddie​​

Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation

Tel: 416-777-5357

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Torkin Manes LLP

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Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Jim,

We’re yours A&H or Bomar? Our 33-11 had bomar’s that I replaced with Lewmar  
years ago … fit the moulded openings better than the originals.

Paul

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2022 7:50:58 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

I replaced our A&H head hatch with a Lewmar hatch, but I'm not sure we would 
have the same unit. Here's a picture of what the mounting recess on ours looked 
like. Sorry, the details are fuzzy after 16 years.

https://imgur.com/a/I1OfZLh

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sat, 10 Dec 2022 at 16:18, paul.hood via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
John,
You'll need to cut gently down the side from top, from bottom up and loosen it 
up till it comes out.



Paul Hood
416.799.5549 c


 Original message 
From: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com>>
Date: 2022-12-10 4:35 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: 'Paul Hood' mailto:paul.h...@rogers.com>>
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head


Thanks Paul.  How on earth is it set into the deck hole?  I have tried all 
manner of trying to get it loose to no avail.  You can stand on it so it’s 
solid but I have a hard time understanding how if the sides are all vertical.



John Read



From: Paul Hood via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2022 8:34 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Paul Hood mailto:paul.h...@rogers.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head



John, There is no flange on these and the perimeter is vertical, top to bottom. 
 Also, the hinge side has seal issue and is prone to leaking. Not a great 
design.  I took mine out about 8 years ago, changed the seal, plexi, and reset 
it.  I can’t remember what I did in the resetting process but it has been 98% 
good since then.  It’s not perfect with the odd drip occasionally, but I’m 
leaving well enough alone. I know that’s not much help for you.



Paul Hood

REFUGE - ’81 C&C34 Georgian Bay



From: John Read via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: December 9, 2022 10:03 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Hatch in head



https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1



My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the aluminum 
frame and the deck.  Have tried various sealants which all have failed mainly 
because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface.  Cannot figure out 
how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with butyl?).  There are 
no visible flanges.  It is a tight fit to the hole cur in the deck.  Has anyone 
had similar issues?  Is there a flange on the frame that is sealed to the 
underside of the deck?  Is it just glued in with plexus or similar?  All 
thoughts welcomed



John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Vang repair

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I've used RivNuts on our vang after having issued with helicoils not having 
enough material to get a good hold in. I did buy the tool which made it a 
simple installation.

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: October 31, 2022 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

For Option 3:
Could use a RivNut, which may increase the load bearing on the thin walled boom.
https://www.boellhoff.com/ca-en/products-and-services/special-fasteners/blind-rivet-nuts-rivnut.php
These are commonly available at hardware stores.

You don't need the special tool, you can install them with 2 wrenches. I'm not 
sure what the load capabilities are on these.  I used them to install my Vang, 
but my bolts go in horizontally through the boom, so most of the load is on the 
boom material not pulling out the threadingand of course, I'm a lot smaller 
boat.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30 - 549
   Armdale Y.C.

On 2022-10-31 10:48, Barry McKee via CnC-List wrote:
> Option 1 seems to be the best solution.  Boom material may not be thick 
> enough to support the helicoil solution.
>
> Good luck!!
>
> Barry McKee
> C&C 29 Mk I
>
>
>
>   My options are: 1) move the vang fitting and drill/tap new holes; 2) 
> drill/tap the existing holes with larger bolts (which may be too large to fit 
> in the vang fitting); or 3) install helicoil inserts in the existing holes 
> (which I've never used before).  Thoughts?
>
>   Matt
>   C&C 42 Custom

Stus-List Re: 33-2 hatch screws?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

On  our 33-ll they go into the fibreglass lip around the hatches.

We replaced the bomar hatches with Lewmar ocean series hatches that turned out 
to match the openings better.  When we were doing this we found some cracks in 
the liner/ deck moles join which we filled with gflex.

Paul

From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2022 9:55:41 AM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 hatch screws?

Hello all,
Time to consider replacing the crazed acrylic on Windstar’s 3 bomar hatches.   
These are fastened through the deck with Philips-head screws, and are bedded in 
butyl.   The interior/underside of the deck is neither visible nor accessible 
as it is covered by the liner.
What do these screws screw in to?   Nuts?  Tapped backing plates?   The 
fiberglass deck only?
Anything I should be aware of as I tackle this?

Thanks all, as always.

Dave 33-2 windstar



Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Mast head antenna cable

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Charlie, better to terminate both ends with a pl259 connector and use a pl258 
female to female connector to join them. Coax  doesn’t splice well.

Shakespeare have a gold plated solderless connector that I’ve had good success 
with, that provides a minimal loss.

Paul

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2022 3:21:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Mast head antenna cable

Ahoy all;

I had my 27 yr old rod rigging replaced this past summer. In the process, the 
yard cut the antenna cable (and a few others) at the base of the mast.
(
The antenna wire looks to be shielded coaxial cable of a relatively small 
diameter--much closer to RG-51 size than RG-8 (I used to use those cables long, 
long ago!).

Unless I replace all the cable to the masthead, which would be a big job, I 
prefer to just solder/crimp/ the current two ends of the cable. They are a PITA 
to reach under the cockpit sole but perhaps less of a PITA than having a new 
one installed from the antenna down to the radio.

My question to the list:

A recommendation of what to do (replace or splice) and if replace with what 
cable. This would probably take a trip up the mast to determine what that 
connection is, plus another to get the cable up to the antenna.

If splice, with what fittings. Way back when, with a proper tool, I made up 
many RG-51 cables with BNC fittings (male and female) but that requires the 
'crimping tool" for the male end at least.

What I am hoping is a simple method or fitting that can be soldered such that 
both the shield and the signal wire are properly connected again with a minimum 
of cost and trouble while still maintaining a good continuous shield wire and a 
good continuous signal wire.

All suggestions are welcome.


Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Did the same with our mast head sheaves, new ones are ball bearing, and really 
helped reduce the friction in our halyards.

Paul

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2021 3:06:43 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rod Stright ; Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

I sent my old ones from the masthead to Garhauer and they duplicated them for 
me.  About $65 each, several years ago.
On 11/09/2021 2:58 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List  wrote:



I am looking for some 2” sheaves for the end of my boom (4).  I believe the old 
ones were Delrin or some sort of plastic and the sun took its tool.  I believe 
someone had a very good source for sheaves on the list.


Rod Stright

Halifax

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I just add diesel from the top when needed, you loose very little when changing 
the filter. As has been said on the list, a primer pump is another place for a 
leak and I have not needed it so far. While the flow rates are overkill, it is 
the smallest I could find that has an easily changeable filter of this type, 
and the extra capacity does not interfere with it at all. The filter is 
installed ahead of the pump, as is recommended by Racor to allow it to remove 
most of the water in the fuel.

I bought mine before the fire cap was required, and still don’t have one -

From: NickL via CnC-List 
Sent: October 17, 2021 9:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: NickL 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies


Dumb question on my part as I never had a Racor type filter previously 
installed on my boat.

500FG has no priming pump that I can see on the pictures.I suppose this is 
because one can just pour fuel from top after removing the top cover?

My engine is 2GM20 and from the flow rate perspective this filter is an 
overkill. I was initially going to install Racor 120 but wanted 230R10 for 
reason of having the priming pump.

Thanks

Nick
On 2021-10-17 9:01 a.m., Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:
We put a Racor 500 on Perception, located under the sink for easy access, 
replaces a spin on which was nothing but issues changing the filters and 
priming. We had a lot of ‘stuff’ in the diesel fuel when we bought Perception, 
and went thru a lot of filters in the early days.

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club




From: Dave S via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: October 17, 2021 7:47 AM
To: Stus-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dave S <mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

Missing some info in my choice below - I agree with Andy’s comments about the 
shortcomings of the spin-on types which are known to be a PITA, however my 
installation location could not tidily accommodate a larger filter - also it’s 
worth checking not only the height of the filter but the required clearances 
above and below.

Dave - 33-2
Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 16, 2021, at 8:38 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
After wading through the various models and -to me at least- someway confusing 
product info, recently purchased a new Racor 215R30 as a primary filter for my 
Yanmar 2GM.  I have not installed it yet.  Check industrial channels for this 
as I purchased mine for about 2/3 the price of an identical unit through marine 
channels.  This unit is oversized for our little engines and though it seemed 
large at first it will install neatly in windstar.  (33-2). The model I chose 
has a glass bowl and integral priming pump.

Dave
Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 16, 2021, at 4:44 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am considering replacing my old Racor primary filter assembly (currently 30 
µm filter) with one of the newer ones, but I am unsure what the difference is 
between them and hoping someone can clarify differences I might not recognize.  
I was initially looking at the 500 series turbine units which start around 
$200.  But there are also 120 series spin on units that are less than $100 and 
seem like they should work:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510&id=133972#<https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349059%7C2837510&id=133972>

Does anyone know if there is a reason not to use the less expensive models?  I 
plan to also add a remote vacuum gauge at the helm station if that matters.  
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We put a Racor 500 on Perception, located under the sink for easy access, 
replaces a spin on which was nothing but issues changing the filters and 
priming. We had a lot of ‘stuff’ in the diesel fuel when we bought Perception, 
and went thru a lot of filters in the early days.

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club




From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: October 17, 2021 7:47 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

Missing some info in my choice below - I agree with Andy’s comments about the 
shortcomings of the spin-on types which are known to be a PITA, however my 
installation location could not tidily accommodate a larger filter - also it’s 
worth checking not only the height of the filter but the required clearances 
above and below.

Dave - 33-2
Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 16, 2021, at 8:38 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
After wading through the various models and -to me at least- someway confusing 
product info, recently purchased a new Racor 215R30 as a primary filter for my 
Yanmar 2GM.  I have not installed it yet.  Check industrial channels for this 
as I purchased mine for about 2/3 the price of an identical unit through marine 
channels.  This unit is oversized for our little engines and though it seemed 
large at first it will install neatly in windstar.  (33-2). The model I chose 
has a glass bowl and integral priming pump.

Dave
Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 16, 2021, at 4:44 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am considering replacing my old Racor primary filter assembly (currently 30 
µm filter) with one of the newer ones, but I am unsure what the difference is 
between them and hoping someone can clarify differences I might not recognize.  
I was initially looking at the 500 series turbine units which start around 
$200.  But there are also 120 series spin on units that are less than $100 and 
seem like they should work:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510&id=133972#

Does anyone know if there is a reason not to use the less expensive models?  I 
plan to also add a remote vacuum gauge at the helm station if that matters.  
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

On one boat I was the union member, I finally put the helmsman on foredeck 
after one too many snap jibes ….. after that they were much more controlled, 
from the foredeck!



Paul

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 6, 2021 5:56:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: leeward layline


I've heard that the non-union members are known to hook the spin up wrong, so 
it is flying sideways (or what, 360/3 degrees offset if we want to get 
particular)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2021-10-06 1:49 p.m., Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Mike,
You know that all Helms and Tacticians expect the crew to be America's Cup 
experts.
I guess that's why the Foredeck Union came into being.
:-)

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30 - 0549
   Armdale Yacht Club

On 2021-10-06 1:42 p.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Bob



If you are happy with your speed on current angle then gybe when true wind 
angle is the same on the opposite gybe.  Sure sounds simple but most of us gybe 
too late or too early.



Too early on a light wind day means that you will end up sailing deeper and 
slower than you intended or performing extra gybes.



Too late on a breezy day means that you will end up with wind more forward than 
you would prefer and perhaps have a bit of a sporty approach to the mark



And of course contrary to what most tacticians and drivers like to think gybing 
does involve sail handling and a potential for error.  This can be detrimental 
to boat speed since not all gybes are performed equally and some can in fact be 
very amusing to your competitors.  This fact is why there is a Foredeck Union



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



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[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
  Virus-free. 
www.avast.com



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

A friend got quoted about that for unstepping, storing for the winter and 
restepping in the spring in Hamilton. He has a 36’  Elite with a deck stepped 
mast. He had to strip the mast once unstepped, and prep it in the spring.

Paul

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 1:51:23 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Mast in and out

As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a cost 
for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I thought $1500 
was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our 29-2, so maybe 
prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to what kind of costs 
folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if this is reasonable. I 
also recently got a quote for $4500 which then ballooned to $9000 and counting 
to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does this sound at all in the ballpark?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We are with Skippers plan (Aviva) and have been for years. They covered us for 
the first 2 years while we were living in the US, and no issues when we 
returned to Canada.

I deal with Drew Robertson, let me know if you need more info.

Paul

From: Doug Robinson via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2021 2:51:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Doug Robinson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance


OOps,

Checked in with Progressive this morning and the lad that insisted I was 
covered for storing in Canada was wrong.  Refund will take 12 to 14 days and 
required some work to unwind in my paypal account.   So I will move my search 
to Canadian underwriters, anyone have a favorite in the Niagara or GTA area.  
Need to check to see if they will cover a 1976 C&C29 Mk1 before wasting our  
time...

FDR

On 9/29/21 9:25 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
I've had Progressive for the last twelve years.  Never had a claim.  No survey 
required during that time.  I got it mostly for liability and becasue marinas 
require it, but my policy also has a stated "cash value" in case of loss.  Each 
year the premium drops a little, (like $20) so I always renew.

Chuck S
On 09/27/2021 4:11 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.

I have never had a claim except for towing and now I use Boat-US for 
that--$250/year which I may drop.

Before I switch, has anyone had any experience with the claims 
procedure/reimbursement from Progressive--good, bad or indifferent?

Saving money on insurance is a fools errand if you have to hire a lawyer to get 
them to pay a claim.

Charlie Nelson
36 XL/kcb Water Phantom
Greenville, NC


-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 

To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 1:11 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

They didn't ask me for a survey.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 9:48 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting 
department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.  
After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.

Matt Wolford
1976 C&C 42 Custom

From: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Glenn Henderson mailto:ghe...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance

Did they require a full survey?

Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
C&C 41
WeGo

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my 
insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check, I 
asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of insurance was 
$487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$
   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
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send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Take the damaged ones to a local fabrication shop, they should be able to make 
you new ones.

Paul

From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 8:44:50 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Bow Repair

Hello All,

I had an unfortunate encounter with a buoy and my 1979 C&C 34 suffered pretty 
severe damage to the bow. The chain plate for the forestay was bent and needs 
to be replaced. There is some fiberglass repair needed as well. I’m thinking of 
fixing it myself. Anyone know where I can get a chain plate/backing plate from. 
And, advice on repairing the fiberglass. I’m located in Baltimore, MD. See pics 
attached.

Thanks
Brian

[cid:B6FA01F1-5448-4D73-ABC3-99237F9CB3B1]
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We had good success with Andrews moving a 27 to the states when we moved there, 
and a 33 back to Canada. Both ways we got a back haul rate, when they have a 
truck moving empty to fetch a boat or return from a delivery. The return to 
Canada also was 2 up as they had a slightly smaller boat to bring back and both 
could fit on the trailer.

Talk to Glenn at Andrews, he may be able to help ……

Paul

From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 3:01:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe ; Steve Thomas 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations


She is an accomplished sailor and she lives on the boat now, has for a long 
time, as I said in my last sentence. Living on a boat at a marina is not as 
demanding as single-handed sailing. She sailed the boat from Seattle to the 
east coast but that was some time ago.

Steve Thomas


-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 2:35 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations


She could save a ton of money sailing north instead of west.

If she really has to be in California, where slips are big $$$ and hard to find 
with live-aboard slips being even harder, the money might work out better to 
sell the boat and buy one already there.

I really really hate to say this, but if she can’t day-sail her way to Texas, 
how long is she going to be able to be on the boat at all?

Joe

Coquina

From: Steve Thomas 
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

It is the owner that is fragile, not the boat. She is in her mid-70s, with bad 
bones in her back, and with stainless steel rods holding things together. The 
boat is well looked after and just had a haul out and a minor refit. She has 
been in Florida too long, is fed up with it, and would much rather sail it back 
through Panama herself but reluctantly admits she is no longer up to the task. 
I have suggested it might be cheaper for her to work her way around to Texas 
and truck it from there but again she would need a sailing companion even for 
that. Money is not unlimited and she is exploring her options. - A long-time 
liveaboard sailor.

Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 1:40 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

If the boat is too fragile to just sail to San Diego, is the boat worth 
shipping across the country?

I could probably find a fragile old 35 foot boat for $25K in California.

Also note the Canadian shipper *might* be able to ship the boat to Canada and 
then ship her to San Diego, but you might have to pay customs both ways ☹

Joe

Coquina




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu




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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: UFO NOISE

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Jim, I think this may be a hearing issue 😁

Paul

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2021 12:41:56 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: UFO NOISE

I have the same issue, I "fix" it by Velcro lashing an extended boathook up the 
port shrouds. I have to have it just right, otherwise it only reduces it 
slightly.
Drives me nuts.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 18 May 2021 at 18:24, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Doug,

Operative words..."only with a wind blowing"...it is most likely the rig 
singing to you so how do you stop itit did on my boat when I was on a 
mooring...first I changed the rig tuning (shroud tension loosened off a 
little)worked for a while but not completelyreset shroud tension and 
then took ordinary white tape and wrapped it around my 4 shrouds (6 to 8 wraps 
per shroud)  approx. 8' feet from the deck...silence.

Probably not a UFO causing your rig singing...now you have to figure out how to 
stop the rig from resonating in the wind?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-05-18 9:18 p.m., Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List wrote:
For the past couple of months I have had a harmonic noise that sounds like a 
UFO. It appears to be coming from the mast, but only with a wind blowing, light 
or otherwise.
Being moored across the bay from Puget Sound Naval Shipyard first few  times I 
heard it, had me looking outside for UFOs. I don't think its wind in the 
rigging.
It just started this year when I got back from my 5 month road trip to Florida.
Is Rebecca Leah punishing me for being gone so long?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy
Port Orchard YC
Port Orchard,  WA
Rebecca Leah
1988 LF39




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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Did the same on our 33-2

Paul

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:20:17 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

For my 35 mk I I got them replaced by Garhauer.

Bob
On 04/15/2021 4:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:


Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" pulley 
diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze bushing, 
but Delrin or similar would also work.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
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costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Atomic 4 trouble shootings

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

And condenser ...
 Almost forgot

Paul

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2021 7:05:41 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Atomic 4 trouble shootings

Check the points and make sure the gap is set right

On Sun, Apr 11, 2021 at 3:36 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good afternoon gentlemen
Does anyone have done a overhaul on the atomic 4
I’m trying to start this engine and getting frustrated of getting no results
I’ve been following the Moyer marine video and still no luck
Here what I did
New spark plug and rotor
New dc wiring
New starter
There spark at the coil
I tried many times to do the dead center alignment assuming the engine was 
rebuilt according to universal specs
New dip stick
I’m I missing something
I’ve tried gaz in the spark plug hole
Results oil and gaz shoots out at the flame aresstor
Give me a call or text 905 818-1336
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Atomic 4 trouble shootings

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

>From my A4 days ( 20 years ago) Check your points and cap . . . Then coil . .  
>If you don’t an have electronic ignition.



Paul

From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2021 2:35:48 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 trouble shootings

Good afternoon gentlemen
Does anyone have done a overhaul on the atomic 4
I’m trying to start this engine and getting frustrated of getting no results
I’ve been following the Moyer marine video and still no luck
Here what I did
New spark plug and rotor
New dc wiring
New starter
There spark at the coil
I tried many times to do the dead center alignment assuming the engine was 
rebuilt according to universal specs
New dip stick
I’m I missing something
I’ve tried gaz in the spark plug hole
Results oil and gaz shoots out at the flame aresstor
Give me a call or text 905 818-1336
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder post bearing for 33ii

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Is this the delrin ring around the top of the rudder post ? When ours gave up 
(split) I got one from SouthShore that was a good fit, had to get the pin also 
as the old one was bent before we bought Perception. Going to be time for 
another soon I am sure ... so interested in what you find.

-Original Message-
From: Dave S via CnC-List  
Sent: March 29, 2021 9:16 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder post bearing for 33ii

So, Mike and me was talkin’.

Both our boats have  had the rudder post bearing replaced  - I was fortunate to 
have an almost intact original and was able to fabricate a pretty good 
replacement - mike was not so lucky and has a serviceable but temporary 
solution in play.
I would like to create (really, have someone more digitally capable create) an 
accurate drawing and maybe make up a few of these.
My original is broken into two segments and is therefore not the best choice as 
a pattern.  
It is very hard to measure this accurately with the rudder post installed.   
Does have a drawing or any thoughts about creating one?  This would be shared 
amongst the collective of course!

Dave - 33ii

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Same on our 33-2

Paul

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 9:17:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

I also have all Garhauer, but on shackles attached to the perforated /collar 
base.  Dave

https://www.garhauermarine.com/blocks/single-blocks/single-blocks-with-shackle.html

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Mar 19, 2021, at 8:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Touche' has Garhauer half moon blocks attached to the mast:

https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-blocks/half-moon-block-hm-1a-us.html

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=sharing

Attaching the blocks to the mast assures the load is carried by the mast, not 
the deck.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 7:39 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Again,

So, I'm considering replacing all the blocks for the mast base.  I currently 
have 3 for halyards, 1 for mainsheet, 1 for boom furling line and 1 for center 
board.

I'm was considering Schafer stainless because they look great but, I'm now 
thinking, some kind of plastics would be better for when they fall against the 
new paint.

I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations about brands, quality vs cost, 
etc...


Thanks again,
Danny
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Lots of sailmakers in the Toronto area – UK, Doyle, North are the big ones, and 
a number of small ones!

And had a Haarstick genoa on our 27 great sail, cut at their Rochester loft. 
Assembles at their Hamilton Ontario affiliate (now Bay Sails)

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: March 16, 2021 9:59 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

Google-Fu shows three sailmakers in Toronto and three more in Victoria. There 
does appear to still be sailmakers in Canada. If you mean literally making 
sails from scratch, maybe not, but they still would repair sails I would hope.
Joe
Coquina

Ps – anyone remember Haarstick sails? I still have some of their sails, back in 
the day we really liked them and the furling genoa they made for us was great. 
That thing was the equivalent of a car with 300,000 miles on it when it finally 
went to the great sail loft in the sky.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 8:01 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

The local loft is now closed- the last one in Canada I think  Right – Now where 
are you going to get your repairs done?
This is the problem, and why Local businesses matter.
UKNW in Sidney is still open, nice folks.


Bill Coleman
Erie, PA


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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


--
Joel
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We have had the Johnson toe rail cleats on our 33-ll, work for 10+ years worked 
great for us.  My sister has them on her 30 as well. Like that they fold when 
not needed. And lines are clear of the deck  no tripping hazard going 
forward, especially with he grandkids on board, they don’t always look where 
they are going!

Paul

From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 7:02:48 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com ; Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

Similar quest here - The Johnson toerail cleat seems to be the go-to and is 
reported to work well in several past conversations on this list.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=80333

Have been intending to try but have hesitated simply because of cosmetics, esp 
for the price here in Canada.   Perhaps it looks more in person.  Perhaps I 
should just get it done.  (Lol).  Have also been contemplating fabricating 
something.

Related - Wichard has a toerail padeye - quite elegant but spendy.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=125394


Dave - 33-2

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/?m=1




Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 10, 2021, at 2:27 AM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
wrote:



A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 34 re-power HP

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

WE put a 25 hp Beta in our 33-II when we did her – been great lots of power. 
Also went with a Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop, if I needed more push id upgrade the 
prop to a 3 blade flex-o-fold.

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
Sent: February 16, 2021 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 re-power HP

Hello,
I have a 1978 C&C 34 with original Yanmar 2QM20.  Looking at Betas and 
wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to repower.  I've heard of 
people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats.  We're in the Salish Sea off of 
Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and current.
Thanks
  Jeremy
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Our 33-ll the top lifts off . . .

Paul

From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 5:30:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Adam Hayden 
Subject: Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

This is a timely post.  How do you access the sheaves at the top of the mast?  
My masthead is welded completely.  I have seen other masts where the top plate 
is bolted on.

Adam
C&C 36
Pictou NS
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dave,

We had garhauer make new sheaves for Perception. The 2 aft ones were fine with 
their stock offerings, the 3 forward were a tad narrower, and I ended up 
sending them one of our old ones to replicate the sizing. The old ones had 
razor sharp edges from rubbing the mast head casting. Great upgrade took the 
last block friction out of hoisting/lowering sails.

Paul

From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 4:54:05 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List masthead sheave thoughts?


My all-rope main halyard is wearing somewhat after 4 seasons or so, and I 
should probably replace it..

It is often stated that when transitioning from wire/rope to all rope halyards, 
that sheaves must be replaced with an appropriate type, presumably without any 
wire groove.

The main halyard is the widest of all of the 5 lines that pass over these 
sheaves, and is as large an OD as the sheave can accommodate.   It is also the 
most often used, and when at the dock is attached to the end of the boom, so it 
is subject to chafe than the others, even in repose.

Is the wear I'm seeing a result of this shallow groove in the sheave, the 
diameter of the halyard, or is it simply normal wear under the circumstances?

If I should replace the sheave, can anyone suggest a source and type?

pics here:


https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/new-sheaves.html

Thanks!

Dave 33-2 Windstar.
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Great idea, Kingston is a great location, 3 major airports in easy drive 
Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal, good waterfront hotels and marinas  lots of 
C& C’ s still on the lake(Ontario).





Paul

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 8, 2021 8:19:55 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?

Rather than several competing "on the water" rendezvous's, I keep thinking 
about a big? C&C rendezvous at the museum in Kingston.  Paid event with 
proceeds to the museum for the C&C document preservation.  Fall 2022, perhaps?  
Long lead time to let the museum get going?

Crazy idea?

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Our 33-ll was diesel from the factory, and had a screen.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of John and Maryann 
Read via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 7:26:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?


Welcome to the list and the 34 is a great boat.  FWIW we still have original 
3GM and it works like a charm



I second the thought of checking the tube.  Exactly what happened on our 
previous boat when we changed from gas to diesel.  My understanding is screens 
on pickup tube were common if engine was gas.  Did your Yanmar replace a gas 
engine?



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?



I’d also pull the fuel pick tube and see if there is a screen in the end of it, 
if there is one remove it - it’s likely picking up sediment and starving the 
engine, dropping ir when the engine stops.



If it that or the filters I would either polish the fuel, and add a cleaner, or 
remove it and have the tank cleaned.



Paul



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dean McNeill via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 2:19:50 PM
To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?



Just brought my new-to-me C&C34 home. My 2009 Yanmar 3YM30 purred like a kitten 
in most seas. But this was a 30 hour slog through hell. Decided to motor-sail a 
bit in some heavy seas (20-25 kts), engine, at 2500-2800 rpm, would suddenly 
lose revs then often quit. Could start up again in a few moments, but would do 
it again in 5 minutes or so. Gave up on it until winds died down and started it 
up no problem... worked flawlessly for a 2 hour motor in calm waters after 
that. Boat was fully serviced in fall and on hard until 2 weeks ago when I 
bought and launched it. Has a Racor filter/water separator and inline fuel 
filter. I'm wondering if the exhaust being under water during that point of 
sail would cause the issue or maybe I should just change up filters, or was it 
probably sediment in tank being kicked up and starving the engine? Thoughts?

Dean


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___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I’d also pull the fuel pick tube and see if there is a screen in the end of it, 
if there is one remove it - it’s likely picking up sediment and starving the 
engine, dropping ir when the engine stops.

If it that or the filters I would either polish the fuel, and add a cleaner, or 
remove it and have the tank cleaned.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dean McNeill via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 2:19:50 PM
To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

Just brought my new-to-me C&C34 home. My 2009 Yanmar 3YM30 purred like a kitten 
in most seas. But this was a 30 hour slog through hell. Decided to motor-sail a 
bit in some heavy seas (20-25 kts), engine, at 2500-2800 rpm, would suddenly 
lose revs then often quit. Could start up again in a few moments, but would do 
it again in 5 minutes or so. Gave up on it until winds died down and started it 
up no problem... worked flawlessly for a 2 hour motor in calm waters after 
that. Boat was fully serviced in fall and on hard until 2 weeks ago when I 
bought and launched it. Has a Racor filter/water separator and inline fuel 
filter. I'm wondering if the exhaust being under water during that point of 
sail would cause the issue or maybe I should just change up filters, or was it 
probably sediment in tank being kicked up and starving the engine? Thoughts?

Dean


___

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Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Use liquid disk soap to lure both the barb and inside of the hose, heat first 
as suggested. I find it easier to remove the barb from the head to get the hose 
on on the Jabsco toilets.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ian Matthew via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 6:33:08 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ian Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

Hi everyone,

Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to the 
holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet is 1 1/2" 
 but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head connection.  It is 
uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.

What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the connection 
as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer as I may have 
to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the joker valve etc.

--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Water Collecting Along Toe Rail

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We followed Dennis’ suggestion of the lamp wick, works great.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2020 12:27:43 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Collecting Along Toe Rail

This has been discussed numerous times.  Most of us just put a piece of cotton 
line or a sponge through a hole in the toe rail to wick the water over the 
side.  I use lantern wick.  It is not recommended to drill deck or toe rail to 
drain the water.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sat, Aug 15, 2020 at 11:20 AM Cam Lubbock via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

I’m guessing I’m not the first one to have this issue, but I haven’t seen it 
posted since being a list member.

My C&C 38 mkII has the usual toe rail with the holes all along it. The holes 
are about a 1/2” above deck level so only large amounts of water drains from 
them. There are scuppers next to the cockpit but they are a few inches inboard 
from the rail, and with the sloping decks, they also only drain water when it 
gets high. There seems to always be a bit of water sitting along the rail at 
the low point, and it makes a bit of a mess of the deck when I’m away from the 
boat and not able to sponge it up.

Does anyone have a simple solution besides tearing the deck apart to lower/move 
the scupper or drilling through the toe rail which would weaken it? Or should I 
just let evaporation do it’s thing and scrub the deck there whenever I can?

Thanks,

Cam
1976 C&C 38 MkII Checkmake
Parry Sound, ON, Canada




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Re: Stus-List Stuck screw

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I’ll second this -

I’d try to lift the track, be sure there is room for some butyl tale around 5he 
bolt holes, using a counter sink if not and rebed them. Or try the sealer, 
multiple applications over a few days.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 5:40:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Stuck screw

I'm pretty sure that  the screwed ends are merely car stops are anchored top 
the track, not the deck.

We had a similar problem with the babystay track on Alera.  We undid the 
mounting bolts, squeezed in some life calk and tightened them back down.  Has 
not leaked since ,

Tom B

At 11:31 AM 8/14/2020, you wrote:
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2020 13:15:07 -0400
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Stuck screw
Message-ID: <10d94c67-0ee5-4f96-b29c-6c0ee6a17...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I have a rainwater leak that appears to be coming from the short track mounted 
on the top of the cockpit coaming.  It is through bolted with 6 bolts and I can 
acess the nuts from the rear cabin roof and I have been able to loosen those.  
However, there are two roundhead screws, one at each end of the track that I 
cannot budge.  I have tried my little Makita impact driver that has never 
failed me, and no movement.  I tried iwth a small sledgehammer and an manual 
impact driver and nothing.  So I can think of three options and would 
appreciate input:

1.  Since the leak is presumably coming down the bolts, I could remove them and 
try to jam enough butyl or other sealent to try to seal around the bolts as 
they pass through the cabintop.
2.  Shear off the tops of the screws (oscillating tool?), remove the track and 
then try to etract the body (or not).  Since I have never used those tracks and 
don?t intend to, I am not terribly concerned about functionality and I don?t 
see why 6 bolts would not be sufficient if they were used.
3.  Find something more powerful in the way of an impact driver.  I checked 
around and have not yet found an ?industrial? sized version to rent.
4. Other?

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

The 33-LLP was one o& 5he first C&C’s to use a frame carrying the loads, stays, 
keel, engine, and  a skin for the hull - Rob Ball may correct me on this!

So I would think it would take some engineering to create strong enough 
attachment points for your changes. I would be looking at lubricating the wheel 
system to make it easier to use, or going to a hydraulics one.

Dave is correct on the 33 being slippery... we can keep up with our Catalina 42 
friends most of the  time, even with the engine! Maybe going to a Beta 25 helps?



Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Wade Glew via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2020 5:27:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II backstay

Dear Listers,

As many of you know, the 33 MK II has a single rod backstay which terminates 
approximately in the centre of the reverse transom.   I don't have a hydraulic 
backstay tensioner.  Instead there is a small (perhaps 6") diameter wheel in 
the backstay which can be turned by hand (rather laboriously) to tighten or 
loosen the backstay (which is quite impossible when the sails are loaded).  I'm 
not really a racer (and hydraulics are expensive) so have pondered the wisdom 
of swaging a fitting on the rod backstay and converting it to a split backstay 
with a Johnson car and blocks to have a manual tensioning system.   This would 
increase somewhat the angle of the backstay and present the issue of finding 
spots on the hull or deck to anchor the backstay that would have sufficient 
strength.   I have no idea if this would drastically alter the dynamics of the 
sail plan or the boat altogether.  I also don't know where on the hull might 
have sufficient strength to support the backstay attachment.  Is this a bad 
idea?
Would anyone have any thoughts?  Many thanks ..

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
Lake of the Woods
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I won’t use polarized lenses, a hold over from my flying days,  bot do keep a 
pair on board when south for reef spotting.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 6:11:14 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

I have had trouble reading the screen of my Chartplotter with polarized 
glasses.  Don’t you find that a problem?  Dave

On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

ray band and maui jim polarized



David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Love my ray bans, especially after cataract surgery in both eyes with 
correcting lenses .

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 5:03:30 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

After wearing prescription glasses since age 3, I'm getting lens implants and 
will be able to toss Rx glasses.  I can now buy off the shelf sunglasses.  Wow!

What are your favorites for sailing?  For clarification, lens specifics and 
perceived efficiency as well as brand and model information will be helpful to 
me and perhaps to others but my specific purchase will most likely be a pair 
with nose pads as the bridge of my nose is very narrow.  The wide bridge 
plastic frames just don't work for me.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

It would be good to meet, if we ever get to have visitors at the clubs! Hope 
the GTA gets to stage 3 soon.

Re: Sailing school

PCYC has put a lot of effort into making its sailing program a top tier 
program, adding world class instructors to the race program, and this year a 
C&C 29 to the adult program (( sadly cancelled due to Covid).

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Delamirande 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 12:15:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

Pretty cool Paul it nice to see there other members in Ontario
We can sailing or race but I’m not there yet
We can meet if you want too
Is it true that port credit has the best sailing school in the area

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 11:53 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

68, been sailing since 12, member of PCYC since 1972!



Perception is our 2nd C&C owned her for 20 years now, had a 1977 C&C 27 MK 3 
for 10 years before that.



Somewhere there is a picture of my dad’s C&C 25,our C&C 27,  and my sisters C&C 
30 (she still has it) at PCYC!



Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C&C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club







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Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca<http://www.jdroofing.ca>

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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

68, been sailing since 12, member of PCYC since 1972!

Perception is our 2nd C&C owned her for 20 years now, had a 1977 C&C 27 MK 3 
for 10 years before that.

Somewhere there is a picture of my dad’s C&C 25,our C&C 27,  and my sisters C&C 
30 (she still has it) at PCYC!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club



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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dan,

Where in Grenada? We love it there, usually for Christmas. This year we are 
still trying to sort out!

Have friends at Coyaba and Johanna at Sunsation tours!

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Daniel Cormier via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2020 1:10:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Daniel Cormier 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

I’m turning 42 this year on board Breakaweigh 1, a C&C44 here in sunny Grenada 
(Windward Islands) with my Girlfriend, 32. We’ve been living aboard and sailing 
this boat for over 3 years now, cruising full time for 1 year so far. We do the 
whole YouTube thing - look up Sailing Balachandra 
(http://www.youtube.com/Sailingbalachandra)
We work from the boat and try to keep up with the maintenance. (Lost a lower 
shroud yesterday!) C&C are seaworthy and relatively fast boats and they will 
take you far if you put in the time and maintenance.

Dan Cormier & Nawal Toulany
Breakaweigh 1
C&C 44
Grenada



> On Jul 15, 2020, at 12:56 PM, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
> My wife is 35 and I'm 36. She's the true sailor. We got out first boat 
> together 5 years ago (1984 C&C 35 Mk 3). We moved up to a 1988 C&C 44 last 
> summer.
>
> Kari's boating history over the past decade includes:
>
> Chrysler 22
> Newport 30
> Tartan 41
>
> She has our entire world travelling planned out thought it might take us some 
> years to get started.
>
> Patrick & Kari Gateley
> 1988 C&C 44 "Odessa"
>
>> On Wed, Jul 15, 2020, at 9:51 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:
>> At 38 I am a year younger than Wisper so I help the other 30 somethings
>> pull the mean down a bit :). Actually, Wisper is the second boat I have
>> owned that is older than me - in grad school in VA I had an Annapolis
>> 18 that was built in 1950.  One of the early fiberglass boats - similar
>> to a Day Sailor or a Rodes but with a weighted CB and no keel. I put
>> lots of TLC into that boat too. Unfortunately she was totaled by a
>> lightening bolt while tied up in a marina on Lake Erie the year after I
>> passed her along to a friend who lives in Buffalo. The lightening
>> turned the hull into a colander (mast was not grounded and there wasn’t
>> really anything to ground it too).  The crazy thing is a few years
>> earlier I was caught out in a thunderstorm on Claytor lake in VA - glad
>> the boat wasn’t hit then!
>>
>> I stated sailing when I was 10 and my Dad and I built a 12 foot sloop
>> from plywood using plans we found in a library book.  Got into racing
>> smallish boats in grad school on Claytor lake in Western VA. Now
>> looking to do mostly coastal cruising in New England.
>>
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Wisper
>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>> Lynn MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List VHF Radio with Outside Extension Mic

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I also like my ICOM 506 with AIS receive and ram mike. I have a hand held, but 
like the higher power, and higher antenna the ICOM gives me.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 2:50:25 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF Radio with Outside Extension Mic

I like my ICOM radio with DSC and RAM mic. I think some of the newer ones have 
builtin AIS.

When my cable went bad, I called ICOM, and they said they no longer stock the 
cable. Then I asked whether a later mic cable would work. It turned out that it 
did, and I was able to repair the mic with the new cable. Maybe you can get the 
same results from Standard Horizon.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:39 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers,

So it appears that the cable and Standard Horizon RAM mic for my VHF radio has 
finally bit the dust and there are no replacement parts available. The main 
base unit, inside the boat is still working beautifully though.

I’m currently torn with the premise of buying a new radio, a new external mic 
and running a new cable, or just leave things as they are and just use a 
portable handheld outside.

Should I decide to go with a new radio and external mic setup, does anyone have 
recommendations?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log










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Re: Stus-List Shift lever

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-controls-accessories/replacement-engine-control-handles/
 Put these on our 85 33-ll.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of John and Maryann 
Read via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 7:21:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Shift lever


A friend’s circa 1980 36 shift lever broke while docking this weekend.  It was 
an exciting docking maneuver with crew climbing into the engine to manually 
shift but all is well.  Any advice on obtaining a replacement?

Edson system with separate throttle and shift levers each in its own tube 
either side of the pedestal.  Lever is cast aluminum



TIA



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT




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Re: Stus-List Rudder and cutlass bearing

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

416-525-4374. He’s busy now that launch is underway,  So can be hard to reach.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Delamirande 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 10:31:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder and cutlass bearing

Do u have a phone number?

On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 8:52 AM Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Talk to Roy Singh Roy’s Marine Service, he’s mostly at PCYC. He has a tool to 
press out the bearing without removing the shaft, and press the new one in.

Paul

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 11:54:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
mailto:joel.delamira...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Rudder and cutlass bearing

Hi I’m Joël
A new owner of whistler 2
I’m in the project of updating the boat, how do you make custom removal
Tool for cutlass bearing
It would be nice to have a video or dimensions to build one
Or do i replace it
Where can I get parts for the rudder it needs new bushingor new bearing
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca<http://www.jdroofing.ca>

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--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca<http://www.jdroofing.ca>

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Re: Stus-List Rudder and cutlass bearing

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Talk to Roy Singh Roy’s Marine Service, he’s mostly at PCYC. He has a tool to 
press out the bearing without removing the shaft, and press the new one in.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Delamirande 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 11:54:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder and cutlass bearing

Hi I’m Joël
A new owner of whistler 2
I’m in the project of updating the boat, how do you make custom removal
Tool for cutlass bearing
It would be nice to have a video or dimensions to build one
Or do i replace it
Where can I get parts for the rudder it needs new bushingor new bearing
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download]
www.jdroofing.ca

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Re: Stus-List Loong Sails

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Made in China, personally, I am trying to avoid made in China products when 
there are made in North America, Europe or Australia/New Zealand alternatives, 
even at an additional cost.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of DANIEL WATTS via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 8:20:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: DANIEL WATTS 
Subject: Stus-List Loong Sails

All, a friend told me about Loong Sailmakers, supposedly one of the largest 
sailmakers in the world. Has anyone had an experience with them? Looking at 
possibly getting a quote on a mainsail for my C&C 33.

Thanks,
Dan Watts
s/v Counterpoint
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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?


Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C&C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Christopher 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: John Christopher 
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Same for us, best part is with the portable tank on the cockpit floor you never 
over fill. I use a universal fuel line with a bulb to start . works great!

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 5:23:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump

A simple siphon pump can easily empty a fuel can into the diesel tank with no 
av/dc power required. It may take a while depending on the tubing diameter.

A priming style bulb can be used to get it going—unless you like the taste of 
diesel fuel and start it by ‘mouth’ or otherwise get the tubing filled with 
fuel.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36XL/kcb

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Saturday, May 16, 2020, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

A friend just sent me an ad for a battery-operated fuel pump for transferring 
fuel from a jerry can to the Enterprise’s fuel tank.

Currently, I’m pouring from the jerry can directly into the tank, but there is 
always some spillage and cleanup.

This looks like a nifty solution, but I wonder if it falls into the 
too-good-to-be-true category.

Anyone here use one of these? Pros? Cons?

All the best,

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I’ve had success with electrical tape 

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 1:28:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
boards at midship.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL
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Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We were lucky then all 3 on that all 3 fit perfectly! Actually better than the 
Bomars we replaced!

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 2:19:54 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

I replaced all the hatches on the boat with Lewmars. Saloon hatch and forward 
hatch were drop-in replacements, the head hatch took a bit of glass work but 
works fine.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Mon, 27 Apr 2020 at 06:15, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Our 77 C&C27-3 had an Aitkens&Hoyle hatch, much better than the Bomar hatches 
on our 85 33-ll, which have been replaced with Lewmar Ocean series hatches. The 
angle of the forward hatch made the low profile hatches impractical, and the 
raised Fiberglas either side made them unattractive.

I’d rate the A&H and Lewmar Ocean series comparable .

Paul

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 8:33:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII


That is a handsome looking hatch.

How do you compare the overall quality compared to Atkins & Hoyle or Lewmar?



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 9:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII



Hi Matthew

Atkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative - I put 
on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys.  
http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html
<http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html>

I'll look to see if I have any pics.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:

Hello CnC list,



I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C&C 35 mkIII.



I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.



I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” square, 
the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner distance 
between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.



I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem to 
match.



Thanks in advance.

This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.



Matthew Schlanger

The Office

1983 C&C 35 mkIII

Nyack NY

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Our 77 C&C27-3 had an Aitkens&Hoyle hatch, much better than the Bomar hatches 
on our 85 33-ll, which have been replaced with Lewmar Ocean series hatches. The 
angle of the forward hatch made the low profile hatches impractical, and the 
raised Fiberglas either side made them unattractive.

I’d rate the A&H and Lewmar Ocean series comparable .

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 8:33:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII


That is a handsome looking hatch.

How do you compare the overall quality compared to Atkins & Hoyle or Lewmar?



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 9:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII



Hi Matthew

Atkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative - I put 
on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys.  
http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html


I'll look to see if I have any pics.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:

Hello CnC list,



I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C&C 35 mkIII.



I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.



I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” square, 
the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner distance 
between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.



I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem to 
match.



Thanks in advance.

This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.



Matthew Schlanger

The Office

1983 C&C 35 mkIII

Nyack NY

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

PCYC is on Lake Ontario, and fortunately have floating docks, so had minimal 
effect on us. It did get to with in a couple of inches of our main power feed 
having to be turned off – so this winter we will be relocating it to higher 
ground. The biggest impact was the limited number of places our members could 
go due to the flooding, and the abnormal amount of debris in the lake.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of pete.shelquist--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: November 23, 2019 6:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C&Cs

We have record high water levels on Western Lake Superior and I understand 
others in the great lakes are experiencing the same if not worse.   With the 
forecast unclear if this water level is a new normal or cyclical, and the fixed 
docks at our club nearing max height, I’m wondering what other clubs are 
experiencing, expecting going forward and what measures you are implementing to 
accommodate?

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Re: Stus-List Another Fuel Mystery

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Check your fuel feed line, I have had the inner liner collapse and starve the 
engine of fuel then once the engine shuts down and the suction released start 
and run fine for a bit. This was on a Atomic 4 boat. Had a similar thing on our 
dinghy last season.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2019 6:01:39 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Another Fuel Mystery

Inspired by Tom’s post.

I have an A4.  On Friday afternoon I filled the fuel tank.  I motor so little 
on my lake - generally just in and out of the marina - that I can go a whole 
season one one tank.  Case in point, she took 12 gallons Friday in a 20-gallon 
tank, and was in the water five months used multiple times weekly.  I added 
lead substitute and stabilizer as usual.

When hauling out Saturday morning, I had to keep station near the launch ramp 
for an hour waiting my turn.  In the middle of that, my A4 just quit.  It’s 
never done that before, except a few times two years ago when I had a frozen 
petcock restricting fuel flow.

After a bit of cranking and choking she fired back up again, and ran smoothly 
for the rest of the station-keeping, haul-out, and winterizing on the hard.  I 
wrote it off to a temporary fuel flow issue, but I have no idea why it might 
have happened.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List C&C Regatta on Lake Ontario

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I would guess if its Lake Ontario it would be the Greater Toronto Area, perhaps 
 Rochester , it would be great if it could be at Niagara-On-The-Lake original 
home of one the original C&C plants (Hinterhoeller’s), however they have 
limited visitor space and are a busy club.

If there is interest I can ask our board tonight if PCYC could look at hosting 
it ….

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: October 24, 2019 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Regatta on Lake Ontario

Around what city/town/area would this be?
(not real familiar with the Great Lakes)

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T Sutton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 10:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Michael Crombie 
mailto:michaelcrombi...@gmail.com>>
Cc: T Sutton mailto:t.sut...@bmts.com>>; 
syerd...@gmail.com; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C Regatta on Lake Ontario

That would be great, I could drive down if anyone needed crew.  Anywhere on 
Lake Huron/Georgian Bay I would sail to.

Tom S

Soul Crane 33-2 K/CB

From: Dave via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 5:39 AM
To: Michael Crombie
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Regatta on Lake Ontario

Subject to the usual work-related caveats, I’m interested.

Dave Syer
Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 23, 2019, at 10:42 PM, Michael Crombie 
mailto:michaelcrombi...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hi Glen,

I'm game!  Perfect excuse to get a new mainsail.

Mike
Atacama
C&C 33 mkii
Toronto

On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 4:45 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-23-19 04:40 PM
To: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous

If we can hold the 2020 rendezvous at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore, Maggie and 
I will host it. giving Josh a break.  I would prefer Oct 2, 3, and 4 but we are 
very flexible.

Bob

On Oct 23, 2019, at 12:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

All right folks,

With the 2019 Rendezvous only slightly in the rear view mirror, we're already 
seeing quite a bit of discussion regarding next year.  I'll take that as an 
indication of the success of this year's event!

Additionally, we are already discussing a location for 2021!  It tentatively 
looks like Solomons for 2021.  Dates TBD.

As for 2020: We are REQUESTING input on locations and dates.

  *   Weekend dates we are in the early stages of considering are the last 
weekend of Sept and the first weekend of Oct. (Sept 25, 26,27 and Oct 2, 3, 4)
  *   Previous year's polls have indicated that the highest number of people 
were interested in locations on the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and 
Solomons.  Outliers both further North and South voted but not in sufficiently 
high numbers to warrant an immediate venue consideration.
  *   I also say that those who attend most in the past get priority vote for 
future events.  As such - Rainy Days, La Neige, Coquina, Crazy Legs, Der 
Barron, Sea Hawk, SEA YA !, and Ciothog - your input is absolutely requested.
  *   A lot of spirit has been generated around Baltimore's Anchorage Marina.
All thoughts, inputs, votes, considerations, etc. are more than welcome.  
Please!  I'm begging!  I'll re-poll shortly but without input we'll have to 
just make executive decisions.  I say it again and again, "This isn't my event, 
it is ours.  If no one attends then the event is a failure of efforts.  I want 
it to be whatever, where ever, and whenever is best for the largest number of 
interested people."


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dave,

Interested why you feel the current unit needs to be replaced. We put the ray 
system you have on Perception our 33-ll 3 years ago when we upgraded our 
electronics so far it’s performed as well as the Navico wheel pilot it 
replaced, and as Dennis has said they work well! With our short season I could 
not justify the expense and effort to put in the octopus unit, which I really 
wanted to use.

Used the saved funds towards the rest of the electronics upgrade.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:13:56 AM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

Had an exchange (after some effort) with the folks at octopus drives and here’s 
the result:





The boat is a 1985 C&c 33 mkii, and it displaces around 10,000 lbs.  it is 
currently fitted with a 2015 Raymarine ev100 wheelpilot system.  This system 
includes a control unit - the acu-100 - which can provide 7A of current to a 
drive unit.  the acu-100 has provision for a rudder position sensor, but one is 
not currently installed.   It does not have electrical connections for a clutch.
I am not happy with the wheel drive for a variety of reasons and would like to 
install a below-deck linear drive.
Unfortunately, Most larger and especially hydraulic drives require more than 
the 7A current available from the ev-100, meaning I would have to upgrade to a 
larger unit (acu) in addition to acquiring the drive itself and hardware.

It appears however that the octopus RS drive is designed more or less for this 
sort of application, though I do have some questions and have been unable to 
find consistent application information.

-Is this drive compatible with the Raymarine system described above?
No it is not, I believe the EV100 does not have a solenoid/clutch output.. 
though the 7A max is no problem the EV200 would be the minimum requirement
-how does the clutch engage/disengage electrically?  Would assume 12v either 
engages or disengages the clutch, and this could be accomplished with a switch 
if necessary.
Engaged and disengaged by the ECU
Is it even necessary given the “joggle the wheel” clutch disengagement feature 
of the RS drive?  (You could have the clutch engaged by the motor voltage, then 
disengage manually in the absence of that voltage, if I understand correctly)
It still requires a joggle of the wheel to disengage the pin activated by the 
solenoid
- is this the drive your experts would recommend for this application?   Is 
there a better option?
This is the preferred drive for smaller displacement sailboats due to its lower 
amp draw and less wheel resistance compared to the hydraulic linear drives
-Any other advice?
Upgrade to a EV200 or any other pilot with clutch/solenoid output

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Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Bruce,

We put a flex-o-fold 2 blade on our 33-ll after repowering her better reverse, 
and power in forward. l seldom try WOT, as I have plenty of speed at 2700 rpm. 
9 or 10 years later no issues.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 1:14:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

Hello all,

I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but given the 
recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd like to 
re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely in my 
future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail in an 
area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  For that 
reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the rather well 
put together article in which a test of folding and feather props was performed 
- the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.

By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are recommending a 3 
blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two blade prop, that may 
not apply to me.

With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a folding/feathering 
prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?

Looking forward to your insights,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C37/40+
"Astralis"
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dave, when we did Perception for the second time we used 3/8 cast 
polycarbonate. I had Rob at south shore make them for me as the previous 
replacement damaged the frames and had used 1/4" extruded poly, which had 
cracked, and he had the original templates. We had them installed and the 
frames repaired - all is well 5 years later! You can get the material from 
Plastruct Polyzone in Beamsville, I have used them for the hatch board and 
slider.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave via CnC-List
Sent: August 27, 2019 9:49 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of info on 
adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the material.

I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please confirm the 
thickness?  (Mine are leaking, but still installed)

I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate .  (Can’t 
locate the post). Any thoughts?

Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite crazed) 
hatches?  

Many Thanks in advance.

Dave 
Windstar 33-2 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Dave,

We had the company that has done our living room do ours, gave him all the 
cushions, and he told us how much he needed. Bought it at one of the discount 
fabric stores in Hamilton.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 9:23:34 AM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their 
33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric 
required?  Many thanks!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 33 mkii Flare stowage box and bracket project.

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

No they are not illegal, I fact most boats have them.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 4:42:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mkii Flare stowage box and bracket project.

I’m just curious, are those flare pistols illegal in Canada?
They looked pretty handy in Dead Calm.

Bill Coleman
Ex C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2019 5:03 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List 33 mkii Flare stowage box and bracket project.

Yet another blog update


https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/where-to-keep-flares.html

Dave
Windstar 33ii

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List 1985 CNC 33-2 Pedestal Throttle handle

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Replaced both on our 33-2 with Edson stainless many years ago still work great.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ray Macklin via 
CnC-List
Sent: July 12, 2019 8:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ray Macklin 
Subject: Stus-List 1985 CNC 33-2 Pedestal Throttle handle

I broke my throttle and I need to replace it. Does anyone know where I might be 
able to get one.  Or I could replace both if i have to.

Ray
LaheHouse
MILWAUKEE WI. 
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Re: Stus-List test

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

two

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: July 2, 2019 9:55 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List test

one 


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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

When I replaced the hatches on our 33-II I reversed the mid ship hatch …. 
Improves the ventilation when in our slip!

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 27, 2019 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

Ditto the A&H hatch on the cabin top of my 38. Just move the hinge rod to the 
front of the frame and reverse the hatch cover.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 27, 2019, at 07:36, David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Richard…my hatch is reversable so  it opens aft.   Perhaps you can reverse 
yours?

David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Richard Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

John, I have a rigid vang on my 37...no issues, except that you can't open the 
mid cabin Hatch open unless the boom is off center...but we don't do that very 
often anyway; I do not race

Richard
s/v Bushmark 4: 1985 C&C 37; Ohio River, Mile 584; river still high...

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, Jun 26, 2019 4:47 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
Rick,
I believe at one point I was told this would not work on Halcyon? 1982 - 37  
But I would love to have the solid Vang! Maybe I need the customer bracket for 
clearances?
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Jun 26, 2019, at 11:02 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
+2 on the Garhauer rigid vang.

I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift is 
such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs – included in 
the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 about 
2004.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jhnelson24 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jhnelson24 mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

Ditto. Very happy with mine had it for more than 9 years.



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

 Original message 
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2019-06-25 12:37 (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Randy Stafford 
mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

I bought a rigid vang for my 30 MK I from Garhauer three years ago for $495. 
I’ve been happy with it.

Cheers,
Randy

On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:29 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t 
break the bank?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log












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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Garhauer

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2019 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

Listers,

My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t 
break the bank?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log












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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Or an oil extractor?

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 29, 2019 6:13 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

Will a Shop Vac work?

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:59 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water 
separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what 
looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not fit 
thru the drain.

I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound made from diesel 
fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the unit, I don't know 
how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This Racor is almost 
impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I do will be a PITA.

Any suggestions on what to do--if anything?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb


-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories
I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he was 
coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He asked if I 
thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes and asked when 
was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35 years!

I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.  
Google it for a picture.

We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit 
twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the 
dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic 
permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud all 
around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean it.  
Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.  Reinstalled it 
and diesel runs fine.

On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this 
weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started easing 
into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element lasted 
over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank couple months 
ago and the fuel looked very clean.

You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Prop strut

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Try Buck Algonquin: 
https://catalog.hydrasearchrecreational.com/category/struts-1

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Gerald Fennessey 
via CnC-List
Sent: May 28, 2019 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey 
Subject: Stus-List Prop strut

Hi

I have a 1985 C&C 35 MK 3 with a very bent prop strut.
Talked to Accutech this am, the company that made the strut
is out of business and it could take as long as ten weeks to get a
new one cast.
If anyone out there knows of a new or used strut for this boat
please let me know.
Sailing on the hard will not be a fun summer.

Thanks
Gerry Fennessey
Fianna
1985 C&C MK3
9788521424
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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general lifeline information

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

World Sailings Offshore special regs require Stainless steel on all mono hull 
sailboats except for ‘Short races, close to shore in relatively warm or 
protected waters normally held in daylight.’Covered in Offshore Special 
Regulations. Our club uses these regs for all long distance races on Lake 
Ontario. 
www.sailing.org/tools/documents/WorldSailingOffshoreSpecialRegulations20182019v2-[24802].pdf



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 13, 2019 4:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general 
lifeline information


After reviewing all of the (well thought out) entries on this thread, I am 
confused; are the Dyneema, or similar synthetic materials allowed or not 
allowed? If allowed, are there certain materials/brands which are preferred?  
Some which should be avoided?
What is the priority on a project such as thisassuming, I do not see rust 
stains dripping from my lifelines...
many thanks
Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Sun, May 12, 2019 10:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?
For the bushings, look here:
https://www.heyco.com/Hole_Plugs/product.cfm?product=Snap-Bushings-1§ion=Hole_Plugs

or

https://www.mcmaster.com/locking-grommets


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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Klacko in Oakville  - send them your old ones and have them make new ones. When 
we did ours we eliminated the covering (which is now the offshore rule), which 
eliminated the rusting.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave via CnC-List
Sent: May 12, 2019 8:10 PM
To: C&c Stus List 
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

Hi all - can anyone recommend a source for replacement lifelines for my ‘85 
33-2?
Original pvc covered ss wire looking a bit tired.  Top lifeline passes through 
a cast eye atop the stanchion, lower passes through (very tired) nylon bushings 
set into holes in stanchions.  Need bushings also.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Dave 33-2.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Source for bronze

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Try South Shore – I have sourced the derlin ring that the rudder of our 33-II 
slides on there.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: April 20, 2019 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Source for bronze

Listers:

I am in need of a source for a small piece of bronze, which will likely 
need to be fabricated.  On my 42, the top of the rudder post exits through the 
coaming just aft of the cockpit.  There is a simple but ingenious method of 
securing it.  There are two, small stainless steel wheels bolted to the rudder 
post which roll on the surface when the rudder turns.  They sit on a bronze 
ring that looks like a large washer that fits around the rudder post and is 
screwed onto the deck.  The bronze ring serves as the surface for the two 
wheels to roll on.  This contraption is housed in a fiberglass cover that 
screws onto the top of the rudder post.  By removing the cover, you can use the 
post for emergency steering, which, unlike a lot of boats I’ve seen, is a 
reasonably convenient location for this.

Last year, unbeknownst to me (due to the fiberglass cover), a nut came off 
the bolt holding the wheels in place, and one of the wheels nearly came off.  
Because the wheel was angled and not rolling flat, it started wearing a groove 
into the bronze ring.  I would like to replace the bronze ring, but cannot 
imagine this is an off-the-shelf item.  Does anyone know of a source for bronze 
for this purpose.  Without measuring, my guess is that I need a piece roughly 
6” x 6” x 3/16” thick (or thereabouts).

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Transom cracks

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Our 33-11 also has these cracks, and has since we’ve owned her, 19 years. They 
do appear to be cosmetic and the gel coat has worn away there though I’ve never 
figured out what did that.  I may try to fill them this year and see what 
happens.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Wade Glew via 
CnC-List
Sent: February 26, 2019 9:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 Transom cracks

I have not seen this on any of the four C&C 33 MKII in my harbour Brad. These 
boats are all 1986/87 hulls
Wade
Oh Boy C&C 33 MKII
Lake of the Woods

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 10:36 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Our 33-2 has a crack on either side of the cut-out seat area on the transom, 
had a look at the other 33-2 here and it's cracked the same. Are there other 
C&Cs that are cracked here? Has anyone successfully fixed or reinforced these 
cracks? Ours has been repaired in the past, unsuccessfully. I think it might be 
related to the backstay tension, just my gut feeling. Any thoughts welcome.
Thanks
Brad
1985 C&C 33-2 Pulse
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Don,

Had this issue on our 33, culprit was  bottom crud getting stirred up and 
plugging the screen on the fuel pickup. We polished the fuel a couple of times 
and the issue would still occur occasionally - solution was to remove the 
screen on the fuel pickup, I actually replaced the pickup tube. I also used the 
Starbright Diesel tank cleaner and their fuel conditioner, and have had no 
issues since - also my primary filter is clean, very little crap in the fuel. I 
also put a small polisher system in to the boat as the tank had holes for 2 
extra pickup/returns.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C&C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C&C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Randy here in Southern Ontario, gel coated boats usually shrink wrap to the 
waterline, but painted or awl gripped boats to the shear line.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 3:52 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to shrink-wrap 
Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to damage her paint job.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I've used a siphon hose, no holding or tipping, and if you set it up so the  5 
gallon is on the cockpit floor it will not over fill!

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 10:17 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually do by 
pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry can.  I 
have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full 5 gal 
container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the transom and 
into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device that works or 
come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D46C4F.B77D10B0]

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Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We’ve had Perception C&C 33-II for 18 years now more to come! Had a C&C 27-III 
for 10 years before that. Only looked at C&C’s when we were moving up …..

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 8:51 AM
To: C&CList mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
mailto:j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question

Hello Al,

I have a question for the list.

How many of you have owned your current C&C yacht for 5 years or longer.

FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
owners.


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY - US12788
1974 C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Question for Rob:
At the time, was the fact that C&Cs seem to be owned far longer than most boats 
ever discussed ? Was this considered a good or bad thing?
We have owned Coquina since 1977 and she is – knock on FRP – on track to be 
sailed by the third generation. I have sailed her since I was 12.
I recall a frustrated C&C broker telling me “No one trades up. Catalina owners 
buy boats every 5 years and you all keep them for decades!”

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

BTW – thread creep – Having a C&C 35 in the early or mid 70s was like having a 
Ferrari when everyone else had a golf cart. We bought one because someone else 
had one on the river and that boat passed the rest of us like we were aground ☺
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Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We’ve had Perception C&C 33-II for 18 years now more to come!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 8:51 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question

Hello Al,

I have a question for the list.

How many of you have owned your current C&C yacht for 5 years or longer.

FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
owners.


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY - US12788
1974 C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Question for Rob:
At the time, was the fact that C&Cs seem to be owned far longer than most boats 
ever discussed ? Was this considered a good or bad thing?
We have owned Coquina since 1977 and she is – knock on FRP – on track to be 
sailed by the third generation. I have sailed her since I was 12.
I recall a frustrated C&C broker telling me “No one trades up. Catalina owners 
buy boats every 5 years and you all keep them for decades!”

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

BTW – thread creep – Having a C&C 35 in the early or mid 70s was like having a 
Ferrari when everyone else had a golf cart. We bought one because someone else 
had one on the river and that boat passed the rest of us like we were aground ☺
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Re: Stus-List Structural glass work

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Think it’s because the link is to amazon.ca not amazon.com.



Paul


From: 30031472000n behalf of
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 11:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Structural glass work

OK this is weird: I tried to order the Fiberglass manual book and Amazon wont 
deliver it to my address!  Does it have something to do with it being published 
in Canada? Does anyone understand this?   Any suggestions on how to get it 
delivered?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Sylvain Laplante 
Sent: Tue, Jul 24, 2018 10:57 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Structural glass work

Hi,
  I read many, and teh Gougeon brothers manuals. By far I would recommend " The 
fiberglass boat repair manual " by Allan H Vaitses , excellent knowledge with 
real life experience and very objective in the subjects covered. He built 
boats, fixed other's mistakes and is a pleasure to read from page one to the 
end. Look at the cover and you can see the extend of knowledge described in 
this book.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-Manual/dp/0071569146

No, my copy is not for sale!

Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII

On Monday, July 23, 2018, 9:22:07 PM EDT, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi folks.
I’ve worked with fibreglass for years and have pretty much memorized the West 
epoxy how-to book. I want to learn more about engineering the reinforcements 
and repairs I’m doing.  Can anyone in the know recommend a good text book on 
the subject of marine composites which goes into more depth than your typical 
toilet tank page flipper.
Thanks.

Brent Driedger
s/v Wild Rover
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List how to search the archives and marine insurance

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Jeff,

Check with Andrew Robertson at Skippers Plan, if they require an out of the 
water survey – or if they will accept one done afloat.


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Bechtel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Bechtel 
Subject: Stus-List how to search the archives and marine insurance

I'm looking for any advice on marine insurance for a 1977 C&C30 M1 that has no 
current survey. I'm in Toronto, Ontario.
I'd prefer not to pull the boat out of the water until the fall, but all the 
insurance companies want an out of water survey to insure.
Any advice?
Jeff

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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We have a pair of foldable cleats on our 33-ll and the have worked well for us, 
and we need them for our slip. To me the hull deck join is one of the stronger 
sections of the board, and most of the load is almost parallel to the hull. 
We’ve had no issues in 10+ years of use, and my sister has them on her 30 with 
similar results.

I would not use them to tie off with the line at a right angle to thr hull 
though.

Paul


From: 30131624100n behalf of
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 11:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off

On My 1982 37 I have only  bow and stern cleats. There is  no place except the 
Toe rail to tie My fore and aft spring lines. And I need them  on my docking 
situation.
Question - Is this fine to do tie off direct to toe rail with clip of Carabiner 
? and what are the methods of attachment? How about Cafe?
 Do the Toe Rail cleats ( foldable)  they sell work ? or what about the or the 
cleat for the genoa track ? is this worth the price? Any other thoughts ideas 
are welcome
THANKS !

John Conklin
s/v Halcyon
Oriental NC

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Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We have one from Sportech in St Catherines, and love it. Its one of the first 
they did. Jamie has done a number of improvements over the years since then and 
we have added some - pictures once the boat is put together, she splashed 
yesterday!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

Listers,

Has anyone installed a Stack Pack 
(http://www.doylesails.com/stackpack/index.html) or similar? Pros? Cons?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









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Re: Stus-List Gooseneck toggle

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Check with Rob at SOUTHSHORE yachts in Virgil ( Niagara on the lake) he may 
have one or know where to find.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Derek McLeod via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 4, 2018 1:38:55 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Derek McLeod
Subject: Stus-List Gooseneck toggle

Hi,

I happen to be in need of the gooseneck toggle for my 29-2. The mast was down 
for the winter and when I tried to attach the boom yesterday I could not as the 
toggle is gone. I assume it was stolen as it was stored in a not terribly 
secure boatyard.

As far as I can tell, it is a part number K-10345A for a Kenyon boom. It has a 
3/8" pin that attaches it to the bracket on the mast.

I spoke with Rig Rite and it runs $190 plus exchange and shipping and duty to 
get it to Canada. Not insignificant money for a smallish part. Not sure if 
there are any alternatives for something so specific, unless I have one custom 
made which I would entertain.

But if anyone has a pile of parts or knows of a place for used things like 
this, please let me know!

Thanks,

Derek McLeod
1983 C&C 29-2, Aileron
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Somewhere on raymarines site are the voltages to check the wind transducer. 
Also check the connections especially the ground.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 6:16:08 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough to 
sail at night without it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Dodger and Bimini Configuration Question

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Steve,

Here are some pictures of my sisters 30 with a dodger and Bimini. They also 
have a connector panel. 
http://www.sportechsails.com/index.php?p=Gallery&l=C&gallery=cc-30-mki-dodger-bimini

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A. 
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 3:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Dodger and Bimini Configuration Question

I'm rehabbing a '73 C&C 30 MK1, with the main sheet traveler right in front of 
the wheel.  There was a dodger on it at one time, but no signs of a bimini.  
I'm trying to figure out how a dodger/bimini setup would work on this boat, 
with the low boom and the traveler coming down so far back in the cockpit.  
Does anybody have one and if so, how does it work on your boat?
Thanks,
Steve
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Re: Stus-List Traveler fit

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I’ll also recommend Garhauer, put one on our 33-2 and very happy with it. Very 
easy to move even under load.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2018 2:29:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Schiller; Jean-Guy Nadeau
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler fit

We replaced the main traveler with a Garhauer.  Sent the old track to Guido, he 
matched the mounting holes and sent the new track back.  Fit perfectly.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35, #7
New: 1983 C&C 35-3, #28
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 14, 2018, at 9:53 AM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Call Garhauer. Theirs are cheaper, great quality and service is excellent. I 
went for a MT-1 traveller. Speak to Guido. You will need exact details of the 
location of the bolt holes so that they can duplicate the bolt pattern of your 
existing track. I will send a PM to you with a copy of my invoice.
NB. Mine was for a 35 MkII so yours might be slightly different in size but 
model should work out well.

Cheers, J-G
Callisto, C&C 35 Mk II
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List IPad Upgrade

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Or get a bad elf gps for lightening connector 

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Sam Salter via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 1:51:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Salter
Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Upgrade

Thanks Joel - time to open my wallet!

Sam

On Apr 10, 2018, at 11:39 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sam,

That's right.  The cell antenna is also the GPS antenna.  Or you can buy a 
separate GPS dongle.
I just upgraded from a 3 to an Air 2.  Big difference in performance!

Joel

On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
It’s about time to upgrade my iPad from the original model - nothing much works 
anymore!
I originally bought it, way back, to run iNavX using the internal GPS alone, 
independent of cell towers. Since the original model’s GPS was configured 
differently than current models, can someone confirm that any Wi-Fi + cellular 
model is the correct choice. (I believe the newer iPads use the cellular 
antenna as the GPS antenna, so buying the Wi-Fi only would not work?)

Sam Salter
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Questions about 33-2 centerboard

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I have a 33-2 KCB, and the big difference is the area under the mast is solid 
due to the different keel.

I was fortunate and had Rob MacLachlan do my pendant when it needed, a bit 
finicky, but a less than an hour in the slings. We had to feed the new one as 
the old broke when a friend opened the clutch and allowed the board to free 
fall. Rob is at South Shore and very knowledgeable

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jack Brennan via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 3:13:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jack Brennan
Subject: Stus-List Questions about 33-2 centerboard

So I’m interested in a 1985 C&C 33-2 that is for sale near me and may still be 
around when I’m boat hunting in a couple of months. I’ve read the posts on the 
33-2, but  have a question about the well-known mast step problems.

Some posts seem to indicate that the K/CB models don’t have the problem at all, 
but they don’t tell why. Can anyone elaborate?

Also, I‘m wondering how difficult it is to service and maintain the centerboard 
and its cable. On my current Bristol 30 K/CB, it can be tricky.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Jack Brennan
Former C&c 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





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Re: Stus-List Geared folding props

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Flex-o-fold, no issues opening in forward, a quick shot of power opens fine in 
reverse, less prop walk than the fixed 2 blades it replaced.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 5:52:11 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Geared folding props

OK, you all know I have a Martec on Touche' and, for the most part, am 
satisfied with it.  However, if I did change, my inclination would be to 
replace it with a geared 2 blade folder.  Especially since I think Martec 
doesn't make non-geared folders anymore.

I have a SPECIFIC question for those who have a geared 2 blade folder.

With your geared 2 blade folder, have any of you noticed a failure to fully 
open or close due to marine growth in the gears?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We use one of these on the wind cable to facilitate the removal of the mast 
instead of the white box.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=680929

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2018 12:43:54 PM
To: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine i50 & i60 installation tips?

Paul — Ken is absolutely correct (as usual…) about the white wind vane cable 
connection box.  As far as other installation tips, you can daisy-chain the 
instruments per the manual to share data across them.  You will need to provide 
a power connection on the SeaTalkNG bus to power them; and you will need to 
properly terminate the bus in order for it to work reliably.  If you’re tying 
in with an autopilot or MFD, that will make the SeaTalkNG bus more complicated.

Contact me if you need more info.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 18, 2018, at 8:11 AM, Ken Heaton 
mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The small white junction box is if you need to cut the wire at the base of the 
mast to allow the mast to be removed from the boat without pulling the wind 
Sensor cable all the way back to the instrument.  You don't need to install the 
white box right away, you could leave a couple of loops in the cable near the 
mast base and run the wire to the wind instrument.  You could cut the cable and 
install the junction box later if you need to pull the mast.  When you do, you 
just bare the wires and insert into the little terminals and tighten the screws.

There should be small spade connectors included in the kit to crimp onto the 
cable at the back of the instrument.

Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I had garhauer do sheaves for our 33-2, slightly narrower than their stock 
ones. I sent one of the existing ones to them

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 11:09:08 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves for 33-2?

Good day all.

Looking to replace windstar’s three masthead sheaves.  The existing sheaves are 
the originals, aluminum with a very shallow wire groove in the centre of the 
rope-radius groove.  I successfully re-bushed these a couple of years ago, 
however I switched to all rope halyards last year and it appears the main 
halyard is slightly fraying at the sheave.

Will my current sheave damage the halyard?  (The wire groove is very shallow - 
hard to imagine it’s an issue)

Suggestions as to a source?

Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Mark, you want cast and 3/8". The first time mine were done the 'expert' used 
1/4 which I did not know until I had both crack after just 3 years. He did not 
polish or bevel the edges either and did a lot of damage to the opening. 
When we re did them I got the windows made at SOUTHSHORE as Rob had the 
original patterns, the had the installer, re do the openings, he was a highly 
regarded fibreglass repairman who's work looks great including matching the gel 
coat.

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Mark Baldridge via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 7:20:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement

Hi All,

I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around.
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new
upholstery for the interior.

So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to
the folks doing the work.

Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C&C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC



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Re: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

See you there Chuck - at the Port Credit Yacht Club booth 10-1 Saturday. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 8:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show

If anyone is headed to the boat show in Toronto this weekend, I’ll be working 
in the Transat Marine booth G417 representing Novabraid along with folks from 
Harken, Spinlock, ACR and a host of other companies.  Stop by for a chat about 
our C&Cs.  Will be at the show Friday, Sat, and Sunday this week.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 owners who have purchased a mantus or rocna anchor. What size did you get?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We have a 22 lb delta with 25’ of chain on our 33-LLP, used it both in North 
Carolina and now on Lake Ontario with no issues. While in NC, a friend borrowed 
it to use as his primary anchor during a hurricane (we had hauled out for it) 
and it held well for him.

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 9:34:57 AM
To: Doug Welch
Cc: Dave S; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 owners who have purchased a mantus or rocna anchor. 
What size did you get?

FWIW Doug, and for summer  cruising a 33-2  in Lake Ontario, I’ve found that my 
10kg BRUCE with 50’ Of chain is more than adequate, and is probably as much 
weight as I’d like in the bow anyway.  (Also, as much as I’d like to retrieve 
without a windlass)
My dad (experienced ocean sailor and Great Lakes) told me that the we’d rarely 
extend the chain at anchor and he was right.   Had experimented with a larger 
anchor and it did not stow as neatly, which, overall was more of an issue in 
practice.  So, my $.02 - you are probably more than fine with the smaller, 
easier to stow option.
Dave



Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 28, 2017, at 4:05 PM, Doug Welch 
mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com>> wrote:

and are you happy with your decision. Our boat seems to sit between the Mantus 
25 and 35 and Vulcan 12 or Rocna 15. I cruise on Lake Ontario and have 30 feet 
of chain and 150 feet of rope.

Thanks in advance,
Doug
Celtic Knot
33-2 c/b
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Re: Stus-List Dow Corning Sealant 795

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

www.dowcorning.com/applications/DistributorFinder/Default.aspx?prod_id=01595717&prod_ids=PROD&state=ON&country=CAN&language=E

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 1, 2017 7:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Dow Corning Sealant 795

Anyone know if this product is available in Canada?  It is the product many 
have recommended for sealing cabin windows along with the 3M VHB tape.

Regards
Rod



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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Yes they did  and yes I can scan it - may be a couple of days though.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2017 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

Hi everyone

Does anyone know if C&C produced an owners' manual for the 33 MKII?  If they 
did, does anyone have a copy that could be digitized?

Thanks
Stu


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Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Joe,

I bought a Bad Elf for my iPad mini original, worked fine (does with my mini 4 
as well, but it also has a built in GPS receiver) with the navionics app and 
mapsme. The Navionics app works on both my iPhone and iPad – both are ties to 
the same apple account, so just 1 subscription so far, and both connect to my 
Ray eS7.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

I have the AIS unit now. I wish I hadn’t been so quick to ship the old one, I 
would like to see it work and apparently I have no shore station in reach of my 
location at the dock. All the lights are good, the diagnostics are all good, 
and it says it is transmitting. I guess I have to get out from behind the 
buildings and out in the Bay to actually see myself online.
Another question has come up. I just got an old Gen 2 IPad I am going to try 
along with my other toys. It is the Wi-Fi version, no GPS built in. So I 
ordered a NMEA>WIFI bridge from FleaBay that should allow this, and my phone, 
to get the GPS and AIS data. Two questions:

1.   Has anyone used the Navionics app with Wi-Fi data like this? The app 
itself isn’t real helpful, it basically says connect your device and it will 
work. Well thanks for that tip!

2.   Anyone have Navionics on more than one device? When I got the IPad on 
my account I have every single app ready to port over that I have on the phone 
including Navionics Hiking, but NOT the Navionics marine navigation app? Is 
this some Apple malfunction or is Navionics trying to get paid twice? If I have 
to buy it again, I can get INAV-X for about half the price.

Thanks
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2017 12:13 PM
To: C&C mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

Joe:
I have an AIT2000 and Raymarine C80 MFD. The AIS out goes to the C80 NMEA 0183 
in and the AIS in goes to the C80 out.  Since I have a separate GPS, that 
connects to my VHF for the DSC connection.  I use a separate VHF antenna for 
the AIS, and it can be used as a VHF antenna in case I ever lose my mast.   I 
had difficulty connecting the AIS to my laptop (something to do with the 
software I'm using), so I connected my GPS to the laptop as well as to the 
VHF/DSC connections.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Oct 30, 2017 at 8:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The old AIS was tested on my Sunday afternoon sail and got about 15 targets. It 
is now off the boat to be shipped to its new owner. The new one is on the way, 
a Digital Yacht AIT1500. So now I need to redo the various NMEA connections and 
the first thing I am trying to figure is the DSC-in signals. The VHF has a 
DSC-out and apparently the new AIS does too, but it does not seem to be 
documented. The manual mentions once receiver switches back and forth between 
DSC and AIS, but does not mention what sentences it sends out or on what 
outputs. My initial plan is to have the VHF DSC out go to the AIS NMEA in and 
then it can combine DSC messages it hears with whatever the AIS picks up. I am 
planning for now for the AIS to provide data for the nav computer and VHF, the 
cockpit plotter will get the AIS info from the AIS and GPS data either from its 
own receiver or the AIS unit, and the APRS will have its own low power GPS so I 
can turn everything off but APRS when I am not on the boat. More to follow, but 
that is plan so far.  One frustration is for some reason the CP180 plotter will 
NOT take a GPS fix on any input but 4800 baud port 3, so even though the AIS 
will send all the GPS data along with AIS on 38K baud, the plotter won’t read 
the GPS sentences at that speed on ports 1 or 2. OpenCPN has no such 
restriction, so one connection will do for that.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List New Striping g...

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I'll second that - did the stripes and stars on Perception with one - just did 
a 2 year old hailing port on a friends boat and had more glue to clean up after 
but also easier than a heat gun and scraping.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2017 11:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Striping g...

Use a 3M Stripe Removal Wheel.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel?N=5002385+3293162209&rt=rud


Rick Taillieu
Boatless
Leamington, Ontario



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: October-17-17 10:33
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List New Stripin g...


So I am putting on new name graphics and hull striping.   Assuming a good clean 
of the old striping, could I not lay the new over the old and eliminate the 
seemingly arduous (it being in a recess) step of removing it all?



Thanks in advance



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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Charter from Grenada

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Tom,

Grenada is on the southern end of the hurricane belt, and other than some surge 
and rain Irma and Maria left it and most of the Grenadines untouched.

There is a huge effort amongst the residents and sailors to get aid to Dominica 
and other affected islands

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2017 7:11:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Charter from Grenada

Two questions...

First, It is still there after the recent storms?

Second, are there any charter boats left?

Enquiring minds want to know!

At 03:33 PM 10/4/2017, you wrote:
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2017 18:32:54 -0400
From: Andrew Burton 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charter from Grenada
Message-ID:
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Yes. It's lovely. A bit more challenging than the VI, but well worth it.
Grenada itself is really worthwhile, too. There are a bunch of articles on
Grenada by Don Street on the Cruising world web site that may help.
Definitely spend as little time as possible in St Vincent. Get there the
day you fly out, if you can. A good old friend lives is a native of Bequia
and big into promoting sailing there. You would probably enjoy meeting him
and some of the kids he's coaching. I'll put you in touch should you head
down.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 5:12 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi- We are considering a charter from Grenada cruising up through the
> Grenadines this winter.  Does anyone on the list have experience with this
 ...snip...

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Charter from Grenada

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Have not chartered , but been to Grenada a number of times and love it there. 
If you are going check out Chris Doyle’s guides and there is a Grenada Cruisers 
group on Facebook.



Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 4, 2017 5:12:48 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Charter from Grenada

Hi- We are considering a charter from Grenada cruising up through the 
Grenadines this winter.  Does anyone on the list have experience with this 
area?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

This is what I used on Perception :  
http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 9:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

Where did you get the PVC panels?

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2017 8:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

Adam — the color I’ve found to be closest to the original Rustoleum Ultra-Cover 
Satin Heirloom White.  It is available in spray cans or brush-on.  I’m in the 
process of replacing mine with extruded PVC panels.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 2, 2017, at 7:11 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello fellow listers
I am considering painting the headliner of our C&C 36 as it is looming a little 
shabby.   I would rather paint it as opposed to replacing it.
The headliner is probably the original so it would be the wooden panels with 
the fabric leatherette look.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Adam Hayden
State of Bliss
Pictou NS

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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

If the fuel hose is original replace it to - the inner wall can collapse and 
starve the engine ... 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Check the internal walls of your fuel line is not collapsing - had this on a 
friends C&C 29 a few years back - 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randal 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 10:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randal Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Listers-

I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
to share.

When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t have 
enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though my 
other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled the 
batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 volts and 
83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% and 12.9 
volts.

So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
hypotheses.

Thanks in Advance,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 301- #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

The wind transducer. This is a low budget project to get his boat more fun for 
him to use.

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

From: CnC-List  on behalf of schiller via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 6:27:34 PM
To: Steven A. Demore; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

I'm confused.  Does your friend need the transducer (wind vane and cups) or the 
display.  The transducer is available from several sources (Defender, for one). 
 If you need the display, I have one.  Let me know.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

On 9/14/2017 6:11 PM, Steven A. Demore wrote:
I have the ST60 wind instruments on top of my mast.  I reached out to Raymarine 
and was told to throw them away, as you can’t buy an analog display them 
anymore, and they rarely work now.  I’d love to make it work, but know nothing 
about it.

Steve

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

From: schiller [mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 9:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

Paul,

No.  The transducer is at the bottom of Lake Michigan.  It went when the mast 
broke.  You can still get new transducers and cables.  I think it is $469 for 
the transducer and cable.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
On 9/14/2017 8:36 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:
Neil,

Did you keep the wind transducer? I have a friend who needs one from an ST60 
(with cable if possible) …

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 7:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: schiller <mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

Alan,

I have an ST60 display unit available from the old Redwing 35 (as well as Speed 
and Wind).  I didn't try to remove any transducers.  The new boat came with 
i50/i60 instruments.

Make me an offer.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
On 9/13/2017 10:41 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
I'm looking for a new (used) display.  I tried a new transducer, and that 
didn't cure the problem.  I also checked all wiring from the transducer to the 
display.
Alan

On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 6:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Alan,

What exactly are you looking for? The thru-hull depth sounder? Display? 
Something else?

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue 
Refit<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__roninrebuild.blogspot.com_&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4&s=eIF8X8ejTlkvrRl8eN8woM5Zq8qnpGpLov7Z4keioj4&e=>

On Sep 13, 2017, at 9:27 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Does anyone have a Depth sounder they want to sell or give away? I'm looking 
for a Raymarine
ST50, ST60 or ST60+

--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4&s=ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc&e=>

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4&s=ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc&e=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR





___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https

Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Neil,

Did you keep the wind transducer? I have a friend who needs one from an ST60 
(with cable if possible) …

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 7:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

Alan,

I have an ST60 display unit available from the old Redwing 35 (as well as Speed 
and Wind).  I didn't try to remove any transducers.  The new boat came with 
i50/i60 instruments.

Make me an offer.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
On 9/13/2017 10:41 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
I'm looking for a new (used) display.  I tried a new transducer, and that 
didn't cure the problem.  I also checked all wiring from the transducer to the 
display.
Alan

On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 6:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Alan,

What exactly are you looking for? The thru-hull depth sounder? Display? 
Something else?

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue 
Refit

On Sep 13, 2017, at 9:27 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Does anyone have a Depth sounder they want to sell or give away? I'm looking 
for a Raymarine
ST50, ST60 or ST60+

--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4&s=ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc&e=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
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