Re: Stus-List 3D File

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Rob,

There are easier and faster ways to do this - but if you come up dry and
want to try to make a 3D model of YOUR boat, and you were able to take
pictures from numerous angles (while out of the water, perhaps - a drone
might be a good way to do this) I'd be happy to run it through a
photogrammetry stack for you.  The best results come from photos taken in
overcast conditions to minimize specular reflections, and even then aren't
perfect.  But it's still pretty amazing stuff.  I think I'll have to try it
with my boat this winter. Probably need about 100 pictures to get good
coverage.

Bill Hall
1985 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Wed, Sep 5, 2018 at 11:21 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As a new owner of a 34 (38 years old) I want to try to create a 3D file of
> the boat . . . . .
>
> Does anyone out there have anything already that is close to a C 34  . .
> . . ?
>
> I can manipulate a different boat if anyone has one that is similar  . . .
> .
>
> I’m using a Program called MicroStation, but I can import most types of 3D
> files  . . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> *Rob Ball*
> Chief Design Engineer  Tel
> 508-995-9711
>
> [image: http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif]
>
> Edson International
>
> Email: r...@edsonintl.com [image: Edson -
> Home] 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[William Hall via CnC-List]

When I was in a similar situation due to current, I found one of these very
helpful

https://search.defender.com/?expression=Line+catcher

It let me quickly get a spring line on without messing with boat hooks or
leaving the boat.

Bill


On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 1:05 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Been reading these responses and will add my experience to the discussion.
>
> I have a C 26, which is lighter than most of the boats mentioned in this
> thread
> so it doesn't carry as far, which makes my situation a bit easier. My slip
> faces north at a marina in Miami, FL and we usually have an ENE wind.
> Because it stops easily I will usually sail it back into the slip without
> using the engine, often single-handed.
>
> To make the line handling less busy I've tied a tether (out of 3/16 line)
> connecting the fore, aft, and two spring lines together at the bitter ends
> -- one set for each side The slip has a short finger pier to port and two
> pilings to starboard.
>
> When casting off I simply drop the lines into the water as I back out.
> Then when I return, I can grab the closest line on whichever side seems
> best with a boat hook and have all lines in hand at once. This allows me to
> slow the boat if needed, or pull it foreword if necessary, and keep it
> centered against the wind using either an actual dockline or the tether
> line as needed. Then after tying the first I just walk around the boat and
> cleat them using markers on the lines to get the length right.
>
> It's a bit unconventional, but in three years of doing this I've only
> embarrassed myself a couple times.
>
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26 -- Whisper
> Coconut Grove, FL
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[William Hall via CnC-List]

We had luck with welding. Get the right rod - LLDPE I think it is. Practice
a little with a heat gun and it turns out great.

Bill - 1985 c 37 starfire

On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 9:03 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture
> in the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other
>  1981 C 36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see
> if welding the polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or
> other manufacture tank ordered?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad Crawford
>
> C 36
>
> “Dora Pearl”
>
> Seattle
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

[William Hall via CnC-List]

When I got my boat 5-6 years ago, it had a stack pack already.  I really
like it and have just taken it in to have the cover reworked. They
recommended switching to the cradle cover arrangement you have (mine is/was
the older version where the sail has the bolt rope and the cover is sewn to
the sail).
What works for me is:
1) I have the cover up all the way when dropping the sail
2) I have a hunk of rope about 6-8' long on the zipper.  When opened up and
sailing, the rope goes into a little velcro-closed bag on the boom so it
doesn't whack anybody.
3) With my nice old comfy bedsheets of a sail, it requires very little
stuffing.  Usually just a tad at the mast where the last couple cars
sometimes hang up or bunch on the sail.
4) Yes, I leave the cover on unless I am using the spinnaker pole
5) Drop the halyard as quickly as you can, making sure it's free to run.
Momentum really helps once most of the way down. If the halyard gets stuck
on something it takes a little more stuffing / pulling to get the sail down
the last 5-10 feet.

I hope you figure out something and can make it work with your stiff main!

Bill
C 37 Starfire

On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 11:27 AM, Tony Wroblewski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am new to the stack pack family - just installed this week. Ours is
> a Doyle Cradle Cover (Doyle Stack Pack not attached to the sail).  Mast had
> a Tides track.  The sail is also new a North 3Di and very stiff.  I could
> use any tips on handling this system because I'm having trouble getting the
> sail into the cover enough to zip it up.  Zipper and top of cover is
> approx. 8' above the deck at the mast. Very hard to reach especially over
> the cockpit.  Have 1 step at the mast but still feel like Tarzan swinging
> from a vine when putting the sail in. It would probably help if I were 7'
> tall!
>
> Questions:
>
> (1) should the cover be fully up when dropping the sail or eased?
>
> (2) what kind of extension or line do people use on the zipper car?
> There's a you tube video of a continuous line zipper trolley that looks
> good but no info on how it's rigged.
>
> (3) is it typical to have to "stuff" the sail into the cover before
> zipping? Or is my problem just a new stiff sail?
>
> (4) can the mast cover be left in place when sailing, dropping the sail?
>
> (5) is it better to let the sail drop quickly - letting go of the halyard
> - or easing it down?
>
> (6) any other helpful hints would be appreciated.
>
>
> thanks
>
> Tony
>
> C 41 C/B #96
>
> Triumph
>
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of bwhitmore
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 17, 2018 10:56 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bwhitmore
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?
>
> Fyi, when we are sailing, we do not remove our short cover that goes
> around the mast and is zipped on both sides. The zippers are far enough
> forward that chafing the sail has never concerned me.  Zipping and
> unzipping the stack pack has been made much easier by attaching a sail tie
> to the long zipper car, as I am too short to reach up above the stack
> pack.  I also added two foldable aluminum mast steps so I can step up the
> front of the mast enough to finish the last of the zip & tuck.  I can take
> photos and post them if anyone is interested.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/16/18 7:46 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?
>
> This is what our main looks like after just dropping it, without taking
> any time to zip the cover shut or to put the separate front cover on
> (similar to Josh's setup).
>
> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcTap2SToF8/WlARaGxmTCI/AAABqLU/8OJ_
> WtmY6JkgY7o6zOjQfjyXcRM2G92mACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2574%2BSalazar.jpg
>
> This is what it looks like zipped up and with the front cover on as well:
>
> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U-z3eISLNhQ/WlAUw3PY9WI/AAABqMY/te2nqCik-
> GUjlHJoZvQPfRKgWtKgWLoqwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20130811_Salazar%
> 2Bat%2BBen%2BEoin%2BMarina_0030.JPG
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 16 May 2018 at 20:04, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have a sail pack custom made by my sail maker - Clark McKinney at
> Quantum Sails in Solomons, MD.  It makes packing the sail quite simple but
> be warned, the boom height can still make zipping the pack and flaking down
> the sail a bit awkward.  I shopped around to various sail makers and off
> the shelf products and finally decided on the customizations afforded by
> using a local canvas maker.  Had I done it myself with the existing lazy
> jacks my lead would have come off the mast too low and too narrow.  I have
> a tides marine strong track with 5 battons so 

Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats

[William Hall via CnC-List]

This summer I discovered varnish in a spray can.  I decided to try it on my
grab rails. Two interesting differences from traditional varnish:

- Subsequent coats can be applied without sanding if done within an hour or
so.  You don't wait for it to dry completely.
- No brush marks

Has anyone else had experience with it? I thought it worked pretty well in
my test, and certainly liked the ability to get many coats done in a short
day. I look forward to seeing how it holds up over time.  It seems there
must be some downside to this!

Bill
Starfire
C 37
Ludington, MI


On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> You're not an unwanted guest.  I actually agree with your opinion to some
> degree.  I was walking piers one day and saw a Pearson 365 that belonged to
> a local sailmaker.  The varnished teak toe rails looked amazing. I asked
> him how many coats of varnish.  Answer: 23.
>
> I varnished the teak grate in Touche's head a few years back.  Applied in
> excess of 15 coats, probably more than 20.  Sanding between each coat.  It
> looks really good.
>
> Philosophically, I liken the Cetol vs varnish decision to that of Awlgrip
> vs Awlcraft 2000.  Awlgrip is harder, probably looks better longer but is
> harder to apply and repair.
>
> For me, the difference is in the sanding between coats.  If you want
> really great varnish, you need to diligently sand between coats.  Cetol
> does not require sanding between coats.  Apllying a filler to the bare teak
> prior to varnish is another difference.
>
> Interested in results and experiences with Awlwood.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Feb 9, 2018 9:11 AM, "Dave Godwin via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Consider me the unwanted guest at the party on this thread but I won’t
>> use Cetol. A few reasons. Years ago I redid all the teak trim on my Mako
>> 261. Fortunately the teak was just aged out. No prior coating that I could
>> determine. I sanded to bright, applied base coats of light Cetol and then
>> several coats of their Gloss. It looked okay, but not nearly as nice as a
>> good varnish job. I figured I could live with that if the maintenance was
>> substantially less than varnish.
>>
>> It didn’t turn out that way. Yes, the Cetol lasted a bit longer than
>> varnish but not enough to overcome the “look” that IMHO was not as smooth
>> and deep as varnish.
>>
>> Although I haven’t subjected my exterior teak trim on “Ronin” to the
>> outdoors yet, everything that I have re-varnished, cabin sole included, has
>> been done with AwlWood. Just from an ease of application (5/6 coats versus
>> 8-10 for regular varnish) and the deep, clear look it is worth it.
>>
>> As an aside, I have a friend with a Tartan 37 who ponied up $4,000 last
>> year to have a professional crew redo all his exterior teak with Cetol. I
>> watched the process being done in the yard near my boat. It took every bit
>> as much time as a varnish job. Yesterday I was on his boat checking it out
>> for him and I was noting the quality of the finish. Very good but nowhere
>> near as nice as a well done varnish job.
>>
>> And being the contrarian that I can be, next time I have to apply
>> AwlWood, I’ll spray.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:10 AM, David via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> So those using Cetol and putting gloss as the last two coats.   Is that
>> for looks?   Hardness?  Both?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C.
>> via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 7, 2018 2:18 PM
>> *To:* CnClist
>> *Cc:* Dennis C.
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak
>>
>> I used teak oil on the toe rails of my previous boat.  I religiously
>> oiled them every few months.  After a few months, they looked like crap.
>>
>> On Touche' I use Cetol.  Five coats Cetol Marine followed by three coats
>> Cetol Gloss.  Then a coat of Cetol gloss twice a year.  Over ten years in
>> the Louisiana sun and still looking pretty good.
>>
>> I seen dock neighbors use Bristol, teak oil, Semco, etc.  For my money
>> and time, it's Cetol.  However, I'd be tempted to look hard at Awlwood.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Feb 7, 2018 10:47 AM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to
>> refinish it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was
>> wondering if anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking
>> for recommendations.
>>
>> Brien Sadler
>> S/V TAZ
>> C 35-3
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for 

Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I used less than a bottle to go around my 37.
I think it depends on how much butyl sealant is left in there / how many
voids there are.  Where there's a gap, it'll keep flowing in. On my toe
rails, it went in only a little before pooling at the edge of the toe rail.

On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 1:29 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> Follow-up question: a bottle of this stuff looks small.  How many will I
> need to do the toe rails (both sides) of a 42 (approximately)?
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 04, 2017 9:37 AM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak
>
> It will get sucked under the rail by capillary action.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 8:22 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not having use Captain Tolley’s, how do you get it to flow under the toe
>> rail?
>>
>> *From:* robert via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 04, 2017 8:20 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* robert 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toe rail leak
>>
>> I have done the same thing with Captain Tolley's liquid sealant both on
>> the toe rail(s) and I also do it on the wooden hand rails on the coach
>> roof.   When I did the handrails for the first few times, the liquid would
>> run under them and disappear.after a few applications, the liquid must
>> have filled all the cavities as it would begin to run down the side of
>> coach roof indicating it could not take any more.and no leaks since
>> with minimal effort.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2017-10-03 6:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I used to tighten the toe rail bolts.  No more.  I grew more concerned
>> about squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
>>
>> Now each year or two I simply run several beads of Captain Tolley's
>> Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail / deck interface.  Cures fairly
>> quickly.  Run a bead, drink a beer.  Repeat as necessary.
>>
>> Haven't seen any significant leaks since I've been doing it.  Been
>> several years now since I adopted this practice.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the
>>> whole thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try
>>> to tighten the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each
>>> bolt and try to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten.
>>> Any other thoughts or suggestions?
>>>
>>> Christian
>>> Peer Gynt
>>> 1980 C 34
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I recently went on a fix-all-the-leaks initiative.  I wasn't sure whether I
might have any leaks in the toe rail, but thought I'd try Captain Tolley's
for good measure after reading your previous post about it Dennis.  Really
neat stuff.  If I had leaks there, I'm pretty sure I don't now.
Bill


On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 5:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to tighten the toe rail bolts.  No more.  I grew more concerned
> about squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
>
> Now each year or two I simply run several beads of Captain Tolley's
> Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail / deck interface.  Cures fairly
> quickly.  Run a bead, drink a beer.  Repeat as necessary.
>
> Haven't seen any significant leaks since I've been doing it.  Been several
> years now since I adopted this practice.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the
>> whole thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try
>> to tighten the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each
>> bolt and try to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten.
>> Any other thoughts or suggestions?
>>
>> Christian
>> Peer Gynt
>> 1980 C 34
>>
>>
>> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
>> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
>> address plant...@wiltonps.org.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heaters

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Thanks Dave. Looks like you've got a lot of stuff in there! My batteries
are elsewhere but we're definitely measuring before buying.

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 7:51 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> Keep in mind that you may not be able to drop the Isotherm hot water
> heater into the original Raritan spot underneath the quarter-berth locker.
> I did some significant modifications when I added my Isotherm (non-SPA
> model) as an upgrade.
>
> New location
> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/new-hot-water-heater.html>
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
> On Sep 19, 2017, at 7:16 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think you will be happy with the Isotherm.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah LF39
>
>  Original message 
> From: William Hall via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 9/19/17 12:37 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: William Hall <wh...@alum.mit.edu>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heaters
>
> Hey, those look pretty good.
> Good timing - I had just ordered a replacement raritan heater - the
> original seems to have rusted out - but looks like the order didn't go
> through. I think I'll get one of these instead. Thanks!
> Bill Hall
> Starfire, 1985 C 37
>
> On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If I ever install a water heater on Touche', it will be an Isotemp SPA
>> model.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with
>> heat exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat
>> exchanger.  I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800
>> dollars or a new Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's
>> experience in this area may be???  Would appreciate any feedback.
>>
>> Glenn Gambel
>> Wind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
> --
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
> ___
>
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Water heaters

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Hey, those look pretty good.
Good timing - I had just ordered a replacement raritan heater - the
original seems to have rusted out - but looks like the order didn't go
through. I think I'll get one of these instead. Thanks!
Bill Hall
Starfire, 1985 C 37

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If I ever install a water heater on Touche', it will be an Isotemp SPA
> model.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with
> heat exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat
> exchanger.  I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800
> dollars or a new Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's
> experience in this area may be???  Would appreciate any feedback.
>
> Glenn Gambel
> Wind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
>
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Sailing instrument updating

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Dennis,
One of my spies watched your last attempt. It looks like you've got a ways
to go. Let us know when you've made more progress.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-_Tg13ozOU


On Wed, Sep 21, 2016 at 9:34 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just read where a group of hackers took over a Tesla S and made it back
> up.  I am working on hacking Raymarine and Garmin instrument and navigation
> devices.  Soon I will be able to control your boat.  :)
>
> Anonymous Sailor
>
>
> (aka Dennis C.)
>
> ___
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

[William Hall via CnC-List]

On occasion, someone bumps our autopilot and manages to engage it.
Sometimes a curious little kid.  I'm sure glad it's within reach of the
helm when that happens.

On Tue, Aug 30, 2016 at 4:38 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Danny — if you put the pilot into standby, you’d really want to be within
> reach of the wheel, I’d think…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 30, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I can't help but wonder, if setting an autopilot is so you can leave the
> helm for short periods of time, why is the control better at the helm?  you
> would think that being able to adjust from in front of the helm would have
> some benefit...  I know it is just my ignorance speaking but, I'm just
> curious as to the benefits of one location over the other.  Especially if
> you have a compatible plotter at the helm and can make some adjustments (I
> know it lacks some functionality through the plotter), would it not be
> somewhat redundant?  Not that redundancy is necessarily a bad thing...
>
> Danny
>
>
>
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Interesting. I'd always learned that rowboats, canoes and the like had the
right of way over sail, motor, etc, at least when meeting in open water
free of obstructions.  That usually seems to make sense, as a sailboat with
a decent breeze can usually avoid the paddler easily.

Here's a reference supporting this general interpretation:
http://newboatbuilders.com/boating/navrules.html . I'd imagine opposing
viewpoints can come up with opposing references.

The example Jonathan brings up is a situation where the sailboat is
constrained and the paddler should try to give way.  Knowledgeable paddlers
know to stay out of the way of boats in the channel, just as we sailors
know to stay out of the way of freighters!  Actually, there's also
reference in Dennis' link to similar situations, both "vessels constrained
by their draft" and rule 9, narrow channels.

This topic of sail vs paddle reminds me of a number of incidents from my
days on the sailing team in college.  We raced dinghies on the Charles
River in Cambridge / Boston, which was also the home of quite a bit of
human powered traffic including rowing shells. Shells are very fast, but
very slow to turn, especially the eights that were often out practicing.
We were told to stay out of their way, but on occasion during a drifter
there wasn't much we could do, and the shells had to avoid us since we
couldn't avoid them.

In one of the first regattas where I had just started to figure out how to
do well, I managed to lead around the last leeward mark and thought I had
the race wrapped up, heading into the finish.  Approaching the finish, an
eight that had decided to row through our course realized (probably because
of all the yelling from other sailors) that they could have picked a better
place to go.  They decided to turn around, and in the process completely
blocked the finish line, overlapping both finish marks with their long hull
just as I arrived.  As the first one there, there was nothing to do but
wait and guess which end of the line was going to open up first.
Unfortunately I guessed wrong and lost quite a few places.   In hindsight
it seems pretty funny - they couldn't have timed or placed their turn worse
had they tried.

Bill
C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI



On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of
> vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel
> belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In
> general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go
> where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled
> vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give
> way to all other classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and
> careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in
> sticking to the middle of a channel!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't
> know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't
> know either.
>
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row
> ashore or to neighboring boats.
>
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov:
>
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights.
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but,
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special
> circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source:
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
>
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


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William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

This list is supported by 

Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I went the splitter route with good results.  Works a lot better than the
deck-mounted antenna that came with the boat, both for reception and for
not being in the way.

Bill Hall
'85 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a car antenna, fully extended, parked in the space between the hull
> and the nav station liner. Works well enough for my needs.
> If you want to use masthead, you may want to check out the Shakespeare
> antenna splitter and utilize the existing VHF antenna.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 1 March 2016 at 12:29, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Quick survey:  What are y'all using for FM antenna?  I have Bluetooth,
>> Auxiliary inputs, iPad, GoFree (B Chartplotter), marina WiFi, Pandora,
>> and nice, new speakers.  Wired for sound, I brag...
>>
>> But I want to listen to good ol' FM radio sometimes, and have issues with
>> the single line antenna output stuffed into the back of my electro-locker.
>> Seems in the UP of Michigan, radio is sorta sparse, but pretty good!!  Top
>> of mast seems optimal, but unsure of space and interference???  What and
>> where are you mounting something and getting best reception??
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> Morning Sky
>> C 35-3
>> Straits area...
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
>


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William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Which side of your wife is her non-working side?

Sorry, that was off topic.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will
> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as
> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to
> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not
> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>
> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional
> although I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase
> the shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is
> really going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini
> needs to stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The
> PO had a complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as
> they restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going
> down to check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me
> a number to text them to.
>
>
>
> Ciao
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *davepulaski
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* davepulaski
> *Subject:* Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>
>
>
> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>
>
>
> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>
>
>
> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>
>
>
> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
> handle.
>
>
>
> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much
> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is
> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the
> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>
>
>
> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>
>
>
> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>
>
>
> -Dave
>
> ___ Email address:
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>
>
>

Bill
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Re: Stus-List water missing from somewhere

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Do you folks suggest replacing the 30 year-old plumbing lines just because
of the life forms you suspect may be growing in there? Or some other reason?
When I got my boat, my freshwater system smelled like the best parts of a
swamp, and the filters were all plugged up with biological goop.  I went
through a number of treatments, bleach, all kinds of stuff.  It actually
seemed to work pretty well, everything smells and tastes fine now, although
I'm sure there are probably some nooks and crannies still harboring life.

Bill Hall
1985 C 37
Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Fri, Sep 25, 2015 at 1:36 PM, Paul Eugenio via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> If your water lines are the original grey tubing then replacing the lines
> are a good idea.  I would also recommend replacing the fill hose(they get
> pretty funky and are cheap to replace).   Take the time to inspect the
> water tanks. I found a crack midway up on the tank in the V-birth.  I
> removed this tank and now use the V-birth space for extra storage.   I am
> in the process of replacing all of my lines with Pex.
>
> If you have not yet, check out Wally’s site:
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2015, at 9:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>  It might ne time to replace all water lines anyway.?
>
>
>Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names

[William Hall via CnC-List]

My previous boat was named Sweet Dream when I got her.  I didn't care for
the name but never changed it.  My crew wanted to name the dinghy Wet
Dream, and occasionally used that call sign on VHF 13.
My "new" boat, Starfire, was named by the original owner around 1985.  I
suspect it was named after a comic strip with a scantily clad heroine from
the time, but the owner who named it wouldn't admit that.
Bill Hall
1985 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There's a boat in my area named "Wet Dreams".   Please don't ever name a
> boat this.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Sep 22, 2015 6:00 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C 27...and the
>> brand. The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was
>> called Vatican.
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My first boat, C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold
>>> Flying Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still
>>> carries that name.
>>>
>>> My new boat, C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.
>>> Talk about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
>>> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
>>> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
>>> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
>>> them of home.
>>>
>>> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
>>> amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
>>>
>>> Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
>>> probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
>>> Millions of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early
>>> Buddhist/Hindu temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side
>>> of the world now and I guess I spent to much time in Asia.
>>>
>>> Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class
>>> yachts.  The owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg.
>>> :)  Fortunately, I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol
>>>   It's the Khmer version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of
>>> Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Burma/Myanmar.
>>>
>>> Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at
>>> least try to, once in their life.
>>>
>>> I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale
>>>
>>> Rob
>>> C 30 MKII
>>> HANUMAN
>>> Noank, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone  +401 965 5260
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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>
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>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred.
I held out until a new panel popped up on eBay.  Plugged it in and
everything works again. Whew!
Bill
C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Thu, Aug 27, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill — maybe try a call to these guys:
>
> Inverter Service Center
> 102 SCT Drive
> White House, TN 37188
>
> 800-621-1271
>
> http://inverterservicecenter.com
>
> See if they can help you diagnose/repair this.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 27, 2015, at 9:03 AM, William Hall via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> My boat came with this nicely installed Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0
> inverter/charger.  The thing worked great but is now producing a "memory
> error" message on the remote display, and won't invert or charge any more.
> Xantrex no longer provides parts for it.
>
> Does anyone out there have one that failed in a different way?  I'd be
> interested in parts to see if I can get some combination working.  I don't
> use it enough to merit putting in a new unit.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Hall
> Starfire
> 1985 C 37
> Ludington, MI
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>


-- 
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[William Hall via CnC-List]

There's Centerboard and Fixed Keel versions...

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One, as far as I know. The 37/40's are not really 37's at all.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 September 2015 at 12:40, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Curious:
>>
>> How many types of C 37s are there?
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> ___
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>
>


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Stus-List Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Hi List,

My boat came with this nicely installed Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0
inverter/charger.  The thing worked great but is now producing a memory
error message on the remote display, and won't invert or charge any more.
Xantrex no longer provides parts for it.

Does anyone out there have one that failed in a different way?  I'd be
interested in parts to see if I can get some combination working.  I don't
use it enough to merit putting in a new unit.

Thanks,
Bill Hall
Starfire
1985 CC 37
Ludington, MI
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Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I had dinner on a friend's very nice boat on Friday.  He had rigged a small
light on the bottom of the boom which lit up the cockpit very nicely.
Bill Hall
Starfire

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 8:41 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Earlier this year I changed out my old perko combo steaming/foredeck light
 for a marinebeam combo. The marinebeam LED is awesome, the old light really
 didn’t illuminate the foredeck at all (it was 39 years old) and the new
 light is so bright it throws shadows. the only problem I have is the new
 light is so well focused that it doesn’t light the back half of the boat at
 all so now I’m trying to decide between spreader lights or a small LED
 fixture to light the floor of the cockpit. I don’t won’t anything too
 bright so I’m almost convinced that I will install a small dimmable LED
 fixture in the cockpit to light the floor.
 James
 Delaney
 CC 38 Mk11
 Oriental, NC

 *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, August 26, 2015 8:22 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

 Ditto. With foredeck light I don't see need for spreader lights.

 Dennis C.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 26, 2015, at 2:20 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I use a Forespar, combination bow light/deck light.  The bow light for
 motoring at night, and the deck light taking the place of actual spreader
 lights.  I they're not LED, but I rarely use either of them when not
 motoring or powered up in a moorage.

 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR

 This has been bothering me all summer, there are wires hanging out of my
 mast just under the spreaders (first set) it's obvious that someone has
 removed the original spreader lights. I've been looking online at the
 multitude of LED spreader lights available, and am wondering just how
 useful they are, especially when they are so incredibly bright. What do you
 have? Do you use them? Are they only used when at the slip? Would a
 spotlight or two be more useful up there? I think I saw a red/white combo
 light somewhere, would that be a better choice?
 Thanks
 Brad
 1985 CC 33 MKII Pulse
 Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
 from my iPad!


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William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Slime maybe.  But I used to get lots worse than slime (barnacles, hairy
goop, and a whole ecosystem of who knows what) whereas I'm not seeing that
now.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2015 at 12:05 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 The fresh water kills all the saltwater organisms, but you are right,the
 boat should float slightly lower since fresh is lighter than salt!!

 I’ve had boats in fresh water though and the slime grows just about as
 fast until you take a sail in the salt.

 Rick
 Paikea 37+

  On Aug 19, 2015, at 8:13 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  in fresh water your boat sits lower.   ;-)
 
  Leslie.
 
  
  On Wed, 8/19/15, William Hall via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners
  To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu
  Date: Wednesday, August 19, 2015, 7:33 AM
 
  My CC
  37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy
  to get to.  The only issue is that between batteries,
  inverter, radome etc, the boat sits a little low in the
  stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just above the
  bottom paint.  My solution was to move to
  freshwater!
  BillStarfire1985
  CC 37Now in Ludington, MI
  On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at
  10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
  I put two extra batteries on a
  shelf I build in the starboard cockpit locker against the
  forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
  those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much
  attention.
  Bob
  On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick
  Brass via CnC-List wrote:
  I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to
  NC, and along the way we are making up a project list. The
  boat will be used for live aboard cruising.
 
  The current setup has one new
  start battery as bank 1, and two old batteries in parallel
  as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to be
  replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to
  maximize the AHR capacity and try to increase the number of
  batteries in the house bank.
 
  The start battery is in the locker under the
  front half of the quarter berth. The house batteries are on
  a shelf on the port side of the engine compartment (and are
  a bitch to get to). There is no room for more batteries on
  the shelf.
 
  So where have
  you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
  of you house bank?
 
  Rick
  Brass
  Jim Schwartz
  s/v Sea
  Ya
  1983 LF38 Hull # 105
 
  Sent from my iPad
  ___
 
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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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  unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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  Bob Boyer
  S/V
  Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
  email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
  There is
  nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
  simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth
  Grahame
 
 
 
  ___
 
 
 
  Email address:
 
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
  go to the bottom of page at:
 
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  --
  William D. Hall, Ph.D.
  617 620
  9078 (c)
  wh...@alum.mit.edu
 
  -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

[William Hall via CnC-List]

My CC 37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy to get
to.  The only issue is that between batteries, inverter, radome etc, the
boat sits a little low in the stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just
above the bottom paint.  My solution was to move to freshwater!

Bill
Starfire
1985 CC 37
Now in Ludington, MI

On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I put two extra batteries on a shelf I build in the starboard cockpit
 locker against the forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
 those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much attention.

 Bob

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

 I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to NC, and along the way we are making
 up a project list. The boat will be used for live aboard cruising.

 The current setup has one new start battery as bank 1, and two old
 batteries in parallel as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to
 be replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to maximize the
 AHR capacity and try to increase the number of batteries in the house bank.

 The start battery is in the locker under the front half of the quarter
 berth. The house batteries are on a shelf on the port side of the engine
 compartment (and are a bitch to get to). There is no room for more
 batteries on the shelf.

 So where have you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
 of you house bank?

 Rick Brass
 Jim Schwartz
 s/v Sea Ya
 1983 LF38 Hull # 105

 Sent from my iPad
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 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on CC 30

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Seems to me that if the boat normally sails stern-low, it moves the center
of effort aft and has the same effect as raking the mast on a level boat...

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I think the initial tuning of about 8 of rake, usually done by hanging
 a weight on the main halyard, is a reference assuming the boat is
 sitting level in the water. At least a few of the CC 30-1 I have
 looked at are stern heavy, some by a couple of inches. I suspect
 that will add some to the rake that would not be there if the boot
 strip and water surface were parallel.

 Under sail with crew on board the boat may sit properly. Given that
 people have reported noticing a change in weather helm from even
 a modest adjustment of rake the error in initial tuning by having the
 stern 2 low might be significant.


 A couple of weeks ago while out for practice starts we flew a heavy
 wind #1 ( a flatter cut ) and full main. Winds were 18 - 22 kts, gusts
 to 30. It was the wrong amount of sail to have up but the helm was
 fine. Eased the vang a bit and left some twist in the main, kept the
 #1 flat.

 With the boat level I have about 6 of rake.


 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1


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William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Sure looks like a crack in the pictures.  Try a dye penetrant perhaps if
you can't tell for sure?

On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 9:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi All,

 I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is
 fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself.
 Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought

 Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and
 all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could
 replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the
 spreaders and rod rigging.

 So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane
 time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud
 to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images
 inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end:


 Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes ..
 which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm
 perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did.

 Thoughts?
 I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against
 it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on
 my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just
 caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this
 was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our
 short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap.
 Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no
 response.


 Thanks,
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32

 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg





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-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Stus-List BG parts

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I have a BG Hydra 2000 system.  On Monday I had what will, sadly, probably
be my last sail since we've moved to Cincinnati.  As luck would have it, a
bird appears to have visited and broken the vane on the wind direction
sensor at the top of the mast is broken.  The electronics all seem to work,
but with only the heavy part of the vane (no fin) it now just points to the
low side of the boat.

Does anyone know whether these parts are available anywhere?

Thanks,
Bill

Starfire 1985 CC 37

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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List 1985 Cc37 fs in Stamford ct

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Finally got to this. Do you think these photos are better?
Any listers have advice on what the right pricing ought to be?
http://tinyurl.com/o3zuapc
Thanks,
Bill in Cincinnati

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 10:23 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Nice boat Bill but do yourself a favour and have someone with a decent
 camera re-take the photos.

 Those ones are horrible and don’t do the boat justice.



 Good luck with the sale.



 Rick Taillieu

 Nemesis

 '75 CC 25  #371

 Shearwater Yacht Club

 Halifax, NS.







 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 D. Hall via CnC-List
 *Sent:* September-26-14 22:48
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List 1985 Cc37 fs in Stamford ct



 All,

 It's with a sad heart I list our boat. I bought her just 2 years ago and
 racked up some big yard bills, thinking we'd have her forever. Now we're
 moving to Cincinnati for work and it just doesn't make sense to manage a
 boat from afar. So I'm listing her for what I paid for her, about half of
 what I have into her. A really sweet boat. My 3 year old misses her almost
 as much as I do.



 The listing is here:




 http://m.yachtworld.com/mobile/boats/1985/C-%26-C-37-2764228/Lower/CT/United-States



 I've really enjoyed the list, been a big help sorting out the boat. And
 for just two years the bankers might laugh at me but I loved every minute
 if it.



 I hope you all keep enjoying your CC's!



 Bill Hall

 Starfire

 1985 CC 37

 Stamford, CT

 617 620 9078


 --

 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4025/8283 - Release Date: 09/27/14

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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Up-sizing boats

[William Hall via CnC-List]

I have a 1985 cc 37 I bought 2 years ago and was planning to keep forever,
but we just accepted job offers in Cincinnati and are moving inland.  I've
really enjoyed sailing her, and my 3 year-old loves nothing more than to go
sleep on the boat.  I haven't listed it yet or taken pictures or anything,
still in denial. Almost tempted to store it somewhere but I should probably
sell it, who knows whether we'll ever be back to the water.

Bill



On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 11:14 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I anticipate being where you are sometime in the not too distant future so
 I
 will be interested in this discussion. I have already hit my head too many
 times and we have not even spent a night on our boat yet. I don't
 unfortunately have much to contribute so I will sit back and read.

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
 Haughey via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 11:01 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Up-sizing boats

 Hi all,

 I'm currently in a Viking 33. I am 6'-0 tall and I cannot stand up in most
 of the boat and I'm tired of hitting my head. The wife and I are starting
 to
 cruise more and find that after 3 days on board we NEED to get off. I love
 how this boat sails! she handles beautifully and has a very slippery hull,
 deep keel and points like nobody's business! However we really want some
 creature comforts. Like, at least a swim platform, I think this can be
 added
 to the right boat, A stand-up shower and a usable galley. A large cockpit
 is
 also on the want list for entertaining.

 We don't race but we like to go fast.

 My thoughts are to either buy a suitable older boat and have her modified
 to
 what we want or go for a new boat. We like the Jeanneau 349 but my fear is
 the quality of the new boats and the composites they use. I love the solid
 hull on my viking. The wife really loves the light open feeling of the
 newer
 boats and I'm only even considering them for her sake.

 I'd like to start a conversation on this and hopefully come to a
 conclusion.
 I feel that a new boat will depreciate quickly and a refurb of an older
 boat
 will offer a better quality built boat overall and the value will remain
 largely the same.

 I have, until now, rehabbed 2 boats from the brink of the crusher. Although
 I enjoyed the process and have a strong sense of accomplishment, I don't
 want to do it again. I want to find a boat, have the work contracted out by
 a reputable yard and end up in a turn key situation. I'm getting a bit
 older
 and just want a boat, in great shape, that I can simply maintain and sail
 more than work on.

 I'm considering looking on the great lakes for a nice freshwater boat.  I
 think and older freshwater boat will potentially be in better shape than a
 newer saltwater vessel.  I think the added cost of the shipping or extended
 cruising vacation could really be worth it!!

 I'm looking forward to all the tips, suggestions and insights!!

 I guess someone is going to get a really nice V33 in Lolita!

 Danny

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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Somebody must've flushed really hard??


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Got love this one:

 
 http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
 

 Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

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617 620 9078 (c)
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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - 32

[William Hall]

I agree, if that pole is usable, get it!

Here in Long Island Sound, the whisker pole PHRF reg is no longer than LP.
So if your jib is a 150%, LP is 1.5*J, quite a bit longer than J.  Having
that extra length beyond J makes a big difference.

Spinnaker pole length on the other hand is usually J.

Cheers,
Bill


On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 12:22 PM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

 Whisker pole is generally supposed to equal the J measurement of your
 boat.  For the 32 is 12.8 feet.  Price for the one 7 - 15 feet is $399 +
 tax so this is a good price.




 http://ca.binnacle.com/Whisker-Poles--Hardware/c232/p3070/FORESPAR-WHISKER-POLE-(TWISTLOCK-ADJ.-7-15-FT.)/product_info.html#description



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
 Plavsa
 *Sent:* Friday, April 04, 2014 1:14 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Whisker pole - 32



 There's one for sale locally, 7' to 17' extension. I don't have one (but
 there are chocks/mounts on the deck for one). Is this the right size for a
 CC 32? How does a person determine suitable length for a whisker pole?
 Asking price is $100, this seems pretty cheap?? It's a forespar. Buy?!



 Thanks,

 Steve

 Suhana, CC 32

 Toronto



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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Inverters

[William Hall]

The PO located my inverter on a shelf at the forward end of the lazarette.
It doubles as a battery charger. It has a power switch on the back that you
can reach through the lazarette, but mostly I leave it on and control it
through the remote control which is mounted near the breaker panel. I think
it's 2kw, big enough for your wife's hair dryer.  It runs my automatic
espresso machine just fine.  I can look up make and model if you'd like.
Bill Hall
1985 CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT


On Thu, Mar 27, 2014 at 10:40 AM, sthom...@sympatico.ca wrote:

 Invertors need to breathe, they dissipate heat, so unless your loads are
 really minimal a locker is going to need effective ventilation.

 Steve Thomas

 --
 From: e...@schillay.com
 Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 10:29:02 -0400
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverters

 All,

 I've always wanted to have a setup like this, but, as part of it, put the
 inverter in a locker or behind the instrument panel so the wires and the
 big metal box are hidden. Does anyone have something like this set up? And,
 if so, how do you power on the inverter?

 Or do you have the inverter out and have a cord plugged into one of the
 outlets that runs back inside to your shore/gen switch?


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/

 On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote:

 Edd,

 Blue Seas makes a couple of different ways to switch between an Inverter
 and Shore Power.  Either solution could be mounted next to the AC Panel
 beside the Chart Table on the Enterprise.

 Here are links to the switches (two ways of doing this):


 http://www.bluesea.com/products/8367/AC_Rotary_Switch_Panel_30_Ampere_2_positions_%2B_OFF_2_Pole

 or


 http://www.bluesea.com/products/8032/Traditional_Metal_Panel_-_120V_AC_30A_Toggle_Source_Selector

 The Rotary Switch is a little cheaper than the Breaker solution and you
 don't need the breakers as you have a main breaker in the AC panel right
 next to the suggested switch location.

 To wire this up, the existing wire from the existing shore power inlet
 (which goes directly to your existing AC Panel) would now go directly to
 one side of the Rotary Switch and a new, short wire would jump from the
 Rotary Switch to the existing AC panel.  A new wire from the inverter would
 go to the other side of the Rotary Switch.  Simple.

 Ken H.


 On 27 March 2014 10:44, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Dennis,

 Interesting. Where do you have your shore/gen switch and how is everything
 wired up?



 All the best,

 Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/

 On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:34 AM, Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ray,

 It's a small 120 Volt AC travel dryer.  It works OK for the admiral.

 When on the hook all my 120 v receptacles are powered by the 1000 watt
 inverter through a shore/gen switch.   She can plug it in to any of 5
 receptacles throughout the boat.

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:36 PM, RAYMOND SHIBE rsh...@optonline.net wrote:

 Dennis,
 Now take that new hair dryer and connect it to your car battery to see how
 it works. My situation is
 somewhat different but we had a 12 v coffee maker. 45 minutes to make
 coffee. We now use a Sea Cook propane stove in the cockpit, 10 minutes to
 perc a pot and better coffee..
 Ray Shibe


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Re: Stus-List structural question

[William Hall]

I haven't investigated what's going on as much as you have, but my v-berth
door won't close either, clearly things have deformed a bit.
Bill


On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 10:32 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
 wrote:

 I'm not sure how many other designs are like this, but the 37 doesn't have
 a
 continuous bulk head forward by the stays.  Strbd is by the hanging locker
 and it T's about midway into the wall for the head on the port side.

 I'm concerned about the flexing in the hull.  Long story, but the symptom
 is
 apparent when I loosen the rig over the winter and tune it each spring.  In
 the winter I can close the door to the v berth, but once the rig is
 tightened up the frame is askew and the door won't close. We're talking a
 1/8 -1/4.  I'm cautious to not over tighten the rig and squeeze too much,
 but there is considerable tension to get it set up correctly.  I did check
 to review that all the tabbing was in place and secure.  I thought about
 just removing the door :)

 Is this an issue for anyone else and has anyone tackled the project to
 reinforce the walls in this area?   Or is it just one of those things and I
 shouldn't worry about it unless there's significant change?  Other
 thoughts/suggestions?

 Thanks,





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wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Vibration

[William Hall]

I agree, it is scary.  I may be double-counting the deflection - I'm just
eyeballing it and looking at the apparent diameter which starts as a 1
shaft or so and shakes enough to look like a 2 shaft when in action.

Thanks for the ideas.


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Gary Russell captnga...@gmail.com wrote:

 Wow!  1 of deflection is huge!  Anything over 1/16 is out of spec.  It
 is strange that it is so bad in forward, but not in reverse.  Is it
 possible that the engine is moving in one direction in forward, and the
 other in reverse (I know you checked the engine mounts, but did you observe
 the engine while shifting gears)?  Something has to be loose somewhere.  I
 doubt a defective MaxProp can cause that much deflection (I have one) on a
  1 shaft.

 Good luck,
 Gary
 S/V Expresso
 CC 35 Mk II
 East Greenwich, RI, USA


 On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 12:46 PM, William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu wrote:

 Dear List,

 I've been troubleshooting quite a vibration problem since I got my boat a
 year and a half ago. I had hoped it all just needed an alignment, but that
 does not appear to be the case. I'm hoping that if I present the situation
 someone on the list may be able to point me in the direction of a fix!

 The boat is Starfire, my 1985 CC 37. It has a Yanmar 3HMF. I believe
 it's the original engine, but was overhauled a few years ago. The previous
 owner said it was overhauled because it was no longer producing enough
 power.

 The engine drives a 2-blade max prop.  There's a line cutter on the
 shaft. There's an RD marine elastomeric coupling between the end of the
 prop shaft and the engine drive shaft.

 When I bought the boat, we noted a lot of vibration when in gear above
 about 1800 rpm. The surveyor thought it needed alignment and noted as well
 that the max prop had more play in it than it was supposed to.  I hauled it
 that first winter, had the max prop sent back to max prop for overhaul, had
 new cutlass bearing installed, and when it all came back together in the
 spring found the same vibration as before.  When running in forward, the
 prop shaft deflects significantly at higher RPM's (maybe 1 of wobble at
 the worst point along the drive shaft), and things shake in a way that
 can't be good.  In neutral, as well as reverse, it runs smooth as silk
 right up into high rpms.

 I've since had a few engine / drive people look at it and try to figure
 it out. The shaft appears to be true. The alignment appears to be right on,
 as measured by two different mechanics. The elastomeric coupling was a bit
 worn, so we put a new one in. The engine mounts are substantial and seem
 good.  The engine people think there's something wrong with the prop that
 the overhaul didn't fix.

 What does the list say? Is it the prop? Could there be something wrong in
 the transmission, say a thrust bearing or something?  In flat calm I can
 get almost 5 knots without too much worry of breaking things, but into a
 sea or wind I'd really like to have the option to use more power.  What
 would you try?

 Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

 Regards,
 Bill

 1985 CC 37 - Starfire
 Stamford, CT

 --
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 203 653 2886 (o)
 617 620 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu

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 --
 ~~~_/)~~


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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Vibration

[William Hall]

Yes, the prop looks great and feathers and unfeathers very smoothly and
easily by hand.
One thought that occurred to me is that the max prop might have been
assembled incorrectly, with one blade set to higher pitch than the other.
In the assembly process one has to match the gear on each blade to the
correct tooth on the gear in the hub.  But one would hope that they'd have
gotten that right when they re-assembled after the prop was rebuilt.
 Anyway I plan to check blade pitch among other things.


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 1:02 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Bill have you tried to rotate the prop to see if the blades rotate
 smoothly?  Can you borrow a different prop for a trial?  I agree an inch is
 crazy!

 On Thursday, January 9, 2014, Fair, Mike wrote:

  I chased a strong vibration for 3 years.  In the end it caused my shaft
 seal to leaks and rust out my oil pan and it broke a engine mount.  In the
 end  I filann7 disassembled my gori prop and found that there was a 2 ounce
 difference between the blade weights. Cost me $70 to balance and new mounts
 and I was purring again.



 Thanks,



 Mike Fair

 413.587.6535



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
 *William
 Hall
 *Sent:* Thursday, January 09, 2014 12:46 PM
 *To:* cnc-list
 *Subject:* Stus-List Vibration



 Dear List,



 I've been troubleshooting quite a vibration problem since I got my boat a
 year and a half ago. I had hoped it all just needed an alignment, but that
 does not appear to be the case. I'm hoping that if I present the situation
 someone on the list may be able to point me in the direction of a fix!



 The boat is Starfire, my 1985 CC 37. It has a Yanmar 3HMF. I believe
 it's the original engine, but was overhauled a few years ago. The previous
 owner said it was overhauled because it was no longer producing enough
 power.



 The engine drives a 2-blade max prop.  There's a line cutter on the
 shaft. There's an RD marine elastomeric coupling between the end of the
 prop shaft and the engine drive shaft.



 When I bought the boat, we noted a lot of vibration when in gear above
 about 1800 rpm. The surveyor thought it needed alignment and noted as well
 that the max prop had more play in it than it was supposed to.  I hauled it
 that first winter, had the max prop sent back to max prop for overhaul, had
 new cutlass bearing installed, and when it all came back together in the
 spring found the same vibration as before.  When running in forward, the
 prop shaft deflects significantly at higher RPM's (maybe 1 of wobble at
 the worst point along the drive shaft), and things shake in a way that
 can't be good.  In neutral, as well as reverse, it runs smooth as silk
 right up into high rpms.



 I've since had a few engine / drive people look at it and try to figure
 it out. The shaft appears to be true. The alignment appears to be right on,
 as measured by two different mechanics. The elastomeric coupling was a bit
 worn, so we put a new one in. The engine mounts are substantial and seem
 good.  The engine people think there's something wrong with the prop that
 the overhaul didn't fix.



 What does the list say? Is it the prop? Could there be something wrong in
 the transmission, say a thrust bearing or something?  In flat calm I can
 get almost 5 knots without too much worry of breaking things, but into a
 sea or wind I'd really like to have the option to use more power.  What
 would you try?



 Thanks in advance for the thoughts.



 Regards,

 Bill



 1985 CC 37 - Starfire

 Stamford, CT



 --
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 203 653 2886 (o)
 617 620 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu



 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Vibration

[William Hall]

Wow, that really didn't take much.


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Fair, Mike mike.f...@mckesson.com wrote:

  I chased a strong vibration for 3 years.  In the end it caused my shaft
 seal to leaks and rust out my oil pan and it broke a engine mount.  In the
 end  I filann7 disassembled my gori prop and found that there was a 2 ounce
 difference between the blade weights. Cost me $70 to balance and new mounts
 and I was purring again.



 Thanks,



 Mike Fair

 413.587.6535



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 Hall
 *Sent:* Thursday, January 09, 2014 12:46 PM
 *To:* cnc-list
 *Subject:* Stus-List Vibration



 Dear List,



 I've been troubleshooting quite a vibration problem since I got my boat a
 year and a half ago. I had hoped it all just needed an alignment, but that
 does not appear to be the case. I'm hoping that if I present the situation
 someone on the list may be able to point me in the direction of a fix!



 The boat is Starfire, my 1985 CC 37. It has a Yanmar 3HMF. I believe it's
 the original engine, but was overhauled a few years ago. The previous owner
 said it was overhauled because it was no longer producing enough power.



 The engine drives a 2-blade max prop.  There's a line cutter on the shaft.
 There's an RD marine elastomeric coupling between the end of the prop
 shaft and the engine drive shaft.



 When I bought the boat, we noted a lot of vibration when in gear above
 about 1800 rpm. The surveyor thought it needed alignment and noted as well
 that the max prop had more play in it than it was supposed to.  I hauled it
 that first winter, had the max prop sent back to max prop for overhaul, had
 new cutlass bearing installed, and when it all came back together in the
 spring found the same vibration as before.  When running in forward, the
 prop shaft deflects significantly at higher RPM's (maybe 1 of wobble at
 the worst point along the drive shaft), and things shake in a way that
 can't be good.  In neutral, as well as reverse, it runs smooth as silk
 right up into high rpms.



 I've since had a few engine / drive people look at it and try to figure it
 out. The shaft appears to be true. The alignment appears to be right on, as
 measured by two different mechanics. The elastomeric coupling was a bit
 worn, so we put a new one in. The engine mounts are substantial and seem
 good.  The engine people think there's something wrong with the prop that
 the overhaul didn't fix.



 What does the list say? Is it the prop? Could there be something wrong in
 the transmission, say a thrust bearing or something?  In flat calm I can
 get almost 5 knots without too much worry of breaking things, but into a
 sea or wind I'd really like to have the option to use more power.  What
 would you try?



 Thanks in advance for the thoughts.



 Regards,

 Bill



 1985 CC 37 - Starfire

 Stamford, CT



 --
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 203 653 2886 (o)
 617 620 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu

 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Vibration

[William Hall]

Low RPM, pretty much no deflection.
Reverse, very little deflection.
Forward, high rpm, that deflection is definitely a node, max deflection
about half way between the engine and the shaft seal / stern tube, behind
the coupling. As I replied to another post, it looks very impressive but
could well be less than 1.  Perhaps 1/2 on either side, so the 1 shaft
winds up looking like it's 2 diameter instead of 1.


On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.comwrote:

   I almost can’t believe that it is 1 inch deflection. You might be
 scoring the stern tube. Or worse yet, you might be trying to rip it off the
 hull.

 Where does it deflect that much (prop end, between the cutlass bearing and
 the hull, inside). I would hope that the cutlass bearing does not let it
 move sideways so it has to be one of the nodes on that deflection. The
 motor should not move that much either, so the transmission end (coupling)
 should be another (?).

 My first bet would be that the shaft is out of true.

 Marek

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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List CC sold..

[William Hall]

And here's hoping they can be one of the few to do so without losing too
much money!


On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 4:00 PM, Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca wrote:

 Good luck to them, I'm sure they'll continue to produce some lovely boats
 that I'll never be able to afford :)


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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List CC smile - wet keel bolts

[William Hall]

The water you can see in the keel sump is not oxygen deprived. It's in
contact with the atmosphere and absorbs oxygen. My understanding is that if
water is trapped inside, say, the rudder or somewhere in contact with the
keel bolts, where no air can get to it, then that can cause the stainless
to corrode.


On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

 John and others

 In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in
 oxygen deprived environment.  I have heard this comment several times
 before also.

 I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some
 water in th bilge most if not all the time.  Since this is where the
 kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as
 wet and oxygen deprived.  Am I missing something or are we all in
 imminent danger?

 Mike

 Nut Case


 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
 and Maryann Read
 Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC smile

 Hi Bill

 If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the
 point
 of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the
 keel /
 sump seal itself to prevent leaks.  Remember that the keel bolts are
 stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment
 which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised.  A good
 starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair
 shop.  I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of
 this
 list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum.

 To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1)
 lower the keel, 2)  clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3)
 reattach
 the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4)  properly torque the
 keel
 bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6)
 apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7)  fair the fiberglass, 8)  apply
 several
 coats of barrier coat then bottom paint.

 If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best
 you
 can expose the joint as deeply as possible.  Clean it to provide a good
 sealing surface.  Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4.

 Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity.  The keel
 bolts
 and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that.  The tape is to fair the
 joint.  If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will
 flex
 and break the tape bond.

 Hope this helps



 John and Maryann
 Legacy III
 1982 CC 34
 Noank, CT
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
 Connon
 Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List CC smile

 I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This
 season
 I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with
 rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning
 on
 making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this
 project?
 I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out
 fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint.
 Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

 Bill
 Caprice 1
 1978 CC 36

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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Best CC's of all time

[William Hall]

Me too.
Bill Hall
Starfire
CC 37
Stamford, CT


On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 9:16 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

   Dave

 I’m just sitting back listening to everyone rant about their boat knowing
 full well that I have the best boat on the planet.

 Mike
 S/V Persuasion
 CC 37 Keel/CB
 Long Sault

  *From:* Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, July 10, 2013 11:20 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

 What, no list-love for the Rob Ball designed, original 37-footer?  There
 must be someone out there who likes them other than me. I hope...

 Cheers,
 Dave
 1982 (unloved) CC 37 - Ronin

  On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

  The 30mkI definitely needs to be on the list; and I would add the LF38.
 Also, the 35mkI as others have mentioned.

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

  On Jul 10, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:

  

 I know we’d all vote for our own boat….. but the 38-40’s models had,
 for me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet………. I
 sail one of the 38MKII’s built in Bruckman’s yard #125…get more
 complements on that boat still after 36 years … Majestic Blue
 (recent)….original deck color….Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the
 deck) all make it just right

 

 Ron C.

 
  --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
 Russell
 *Sent:* Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
 *To:* CC List
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

 

 Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II
 because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than
 the newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a CC 121 (flame retardant suit on)
 and she is a rocket ship.  Very nice!

 

 Gary

 

 On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:
 

 Hi Dennis,

 I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built
 the company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO

 She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.

 Cheers, Russ
 *Sweet *35 mk-1


 

 From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
 To: robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com**
 **


 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

 The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a
 good layout and sailed really well.
 The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours
 cruising with my old dad on his.
 I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what
 a joy to sail and look at that boat!
 The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
 I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any
 experience with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that
 resulted in acquiring Peregrine.
 Andy



 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport**, **RI**
 **USA02840



 At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:

  OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.

 Discussion starts.NOW!

 Dennis C.

 

 From: robertlma...@gmail.com robertlma...@gmail.com

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

 Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:13 PM

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

 

 What I personally would find interesting is what this esteemed group
 thinks are the top ten CCs of all time? The reason for your choice would
 also be of interest. 

 Rob 


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Re: Stus-List where to secure spring lines

[William Hall]

My boat, acquired last fall, has these from the previous owner.  I use them
all the time now and am pretty happy.
The only issue with them is they're attached at a single point to the toe
rail, so they can pivot back and forth a little around that point.  With
heavy long term use they might wear through the rubber pad they mount over
and score the toe rail.  But they work great for me and when folded down
don't seem to catch anything, and I imagine if you monitor the situation
you'll be fine.

Bill
1985 CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT


On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Paul Fountain
paul.fount...@sympatico.cawrote:

 We have these on Perception:

 ** **

 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00050.htm

 ** **

 Which work well for us.

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
 broo...@aol.com
 *Sent:* July-05-13 11:04 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List where to secure spring lines

 ** **

 This summer we have leased a slip at a fixed dock.  The slip is 34' X
 14.5' with 3 pilings on each side.  At times there is an incredible amount
 of surge and the boat just bounces back and forth putting a lot of strain
 on the dock lines.  We have doubled bow and stern lines and have bow and
 stern springs.  The only midship cleats on a CC 37 are on the coach house
 and don't seem appropriate to take this kind of strain.  Currently the
 spring lines are wrapped around the turnbuckles then taken up to the coach
 house cleats but we are worried about the strain on the turnbuckles.  Yes,
 there is chafing gear everywhere. Is there a better place to secure the
 spring lines?  Could you share some of your cumulative wisdom? Other than
 getting a new slip, that is.

 Bev Genader

 Bob Morgan

 CC 37

 Stonington Harbor, CT.

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Re: Stus-List Winch Handles

[William Hall]

The handle or the trimmer?


On Thu, Jun 20, 2013 at 8:29 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:

  Too bad, it’s probably worth 10 bucks in scrap!

 ** **

 Bill Coleman

 CC 39 [image: animated_favicon1]

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
 sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, June 19, 2013 6:55 PM
 *To:* CnC
 *Subject:* Stus-List Winch Handles

 ** **

 I've got both the Titan and the One Touch.

 ** **

 My trimmer threw the original Barient, metal winch handle overboard and
 refused to sail with me until I bought a proper winch handle. 

 ** **

 He prefers the One Touch!

 ** **

 sam :-) 403-617-6280

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Re: Stus-List toe rail leak

[William Hall]

Interesting.
I think it does depend on what's left in there.
I have a Seidelmann 299 (nice fast boat for sale cheap now since buying our
CC 37 last fall) with similar construction. I tightened all the bolts
along the toe rails and no more leakage.  I would try tightening them.
You'll probably need someone to help keep some of the bolts from turning on
deck while you tighten from below, or you can get clever and wedge vise
grips on a screwdriver bit against the toe rail.
Bill
Starfire
1985 CC 37
Stamford, CT


On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 7:21 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Richard,

 CC toerails are usually sealed with butyl rubber.  Tightening the bolts
 tends to squeeze out the butyl rubber.  There's only so much there.

 Like Dwight said, hang a piece of line through the toerail to wick water
 out of the low spots.  It also reduces the chalk line down the hull.

 I treat mine annually with Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.  I run
 several beads down the toerail/deck joint.  It wicks into the joint.
 Eventually, the stuff will build up and the leakage will diminish.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

   --
  *From:* Richard H. Bernstein richard.h.bernst...@uvm.edu
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:25 PM
 *Subject:* Stus-List toe rail leak

 I'm sure this issue has been beaten to death somewhere, but I'm a
 newbie to the list, having moved up from a CC29 MK1 to a 1984 Cc35.
 Readying the new one for launch this spring, I noticed water in the
 locker beneath the quarter berth and traced the source to loose deck
 joint bolts, I think. As with the 29, water stands against the toe
 rail at the aft quarter and it looks like it's getting underneath and
 into the cabin. Is fixing this simply a matter of tightening the nuts?
 Anyone have any experience, hints, cautions?
 ---
 Richard Bernstein
 LUNA-CC 35
 Lake Champlain, Vermont









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617 620 9078 (c)
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Re: Stus-List Leaking windows-biting the bullet

[William Hall]

Kim,
Where do you keep your boat?
I haven't heard many mentions of Trinidad around here in Long Island Sound.
 Five years sounds pretty good.
Bill Hall
Starfire CC 37
Stamford, CT


On Tue, Mar 5, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote:

 All,
 I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
 years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
 at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
 torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
 bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
 lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
 ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
 tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from
 past
 discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
 enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
 One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously
 priced
 primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need
 good
 enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
 so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
 soon.

 Kim Brown
 Trust Me!!! 35-3




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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List FW: Aerial View of Southern Vancouver Island

[William Hall]

Propeller is not flexible.  That's an artifact of the swept shutter used by
many cameras.
Bill Hall
CC 37 and Beech B55 Baron


On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 9:09 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:

  What a cute little plane! Thanks a lot, now I want to build one of
 those!  8;) 

 I am amazed at what great content people create and share with everyone
 like this.  What a beautiful tour of a beautiful island. 

 (BTW, I was looking for cougars, not sailboats!  I understand this island
 has tons!  Cats, that is, not old women.)

 Also, can’t believe the flexibility of that propeller . . . 

 ** **

 Bill Coleman

 CC 39 [image: animated_favicon1]

 ** **

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
 Blair
 *Sent:* Wednesday, January 30, 2013 8:09 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List FW: Aerial View of Southern Vancouver Island

 ** **

 This guy is not a sailor apparently but got some nice views of our sailing
 territory in and around Victoria and the Gulf Islands, Royal Victoria Yacht
 Club is in Cadboro Bay. Don’t know why there were few sail boats evident –
 looked like a lovely day last fall. For the interest of those in the cold
 and snow.  Cheers

 ** **

 *From:* John Mitchell [mailto:joshmi...@shaw.ca]
 *Sent:* January-30-13 11:24 AM
 *To:* 'David Blair'
 *Subject:* FW: Aerial View of Southern Vancouver Island

 ** **

 This is interesting. When it starts right click on the image and then you
 can go to full screen. 

 ** **

 *From:* Stan Harder [mailto:snhar...@shaw.ca snhar...@shaw.ca]
 *Sent:* January-24-13 2:52 PM
 *To:* John Mitchell
 *Subject:* Aerial View of Southern Vancouver Island

 ** **

 John,

 ** **

 You’ve probably sailed through much of what is on this video. Here is a
 different view. 

 ** **

 Stan

   * Best in Full screen *

  

 When you have 20 minutes to spare, this video from the wing of an air
 plane starts at Nanaimo Airport [about 50 miles North of Victoria, and
 comes down the East Coast of Vancouver Island over the Canadian Gulf
 Islands to Victoria.  You can see the American Gulf Islands and the Olympic
 Peninsula to the south.  The plane goes over Victoria and then heads West
 and then North and then over the island to Nanaimo again.

 For those who may not be familiar with the geography, Vancouver Island is
 off the West coast of British Columbia.  The Island is some 400 miles long
 and 60 miles at its widest point.  The 49th parallel is the basic border
 with the United States, but much of the Southern Island seen in the video
 is south of the 49th.Enjoy.

 http://vimeo.com/53986934


 Just before our wet weather began I had the Mustang ll out on a

 beautiful afternoon flight with a couple of wing-mounted cameras going.

 This video is the result of that afternoon’s flight.

 No I don’t work for the BC Tourist department. I just love the land

 (and water) that I am so privellaged to fly over, and made so much more

 enjoyable by the greatest airplane design around. Do I sound a bit

 biased? ha.



 I started out with an hour and twenty minutes and ended up with

 nineteen. I just couldn’t get it any shorter and even so we miss some

 great stuff. Still, I think the nineteen minutes is worth it.


 The Best Seat on the Planet - for exploring Victoria  Southern

 Vancouver Island

  

  

  



   ** **

 ** **

 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2013.0.2805 / Virus Database: 2637/5969 - Release Date: 12/18/12*
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

[William Hall]

Ouch.  Brings back bad memories.  I re-cored the deck of an E-22 once. Not
fun.
Did the surveyor go over the hull with a moisture meter as part of the
survey?  How long was that before you had to tear into it like this?



On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote:

 I haven't tried sharing anything via Google+, so don't know if they force
 you to have a Google ID.  Anyway, here are some pictures of the core work
 from Spring 2011 and a couple of pictures from chainplate reinforcement
 from the prior year.  This year it's just the keel sump (pictures to be
 posted later).

 I know this is not a particularly good advertisement for owning an older
 CC, or trusting surveyors for that matter...


 https://plus.google.com/photos/101312290967793013089/albums/5832293047389624689


 Tim
 Mojito
 1984 CC 35-3
 Branford, CT


 On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 9:13 AM, dwight veinot 
 dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote:

 ** ** **

 Tim

 ** **

 Do you have any photos of the repair that you can share?  If so I’d like
 to have a look, please

 ** **

 Dwight Veinot

 CC 35 MKII, Alianna

 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
   --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
 Goodyear
 *Sent:* January 11, 2013 9:59 AM
 *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks
 

  ** **

 The cause of the cracks was wet core just outboard / above the solid
 glass at the turn of the bilge (right by the mast step).  There was a void
 between the mast step assembly (glass) and the hull proper that allowed
 water to sit for a while (29 years?) against the inner laminate...  I now
 have full confidence in the hull integrity (having replaced most of it over
 the last two years), but am many dollars lighter.  The temptation of a new
 boat is growing.

 ** **

 Tim

 Mojito

 1984 CC 35-3

 Branford**, **CT

 ** **

 On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Tim,

 My boat is a lot older than yours but if it's any indication, their layup
 schedules weren't very good.  I've re-tabbed most of the bulkhead/hull
 joints in Touche's forward section.  A few were detached or broken but most
 were just bad practice.

 When I had the boat hauled about 5 years ago for a barrier coat, I could
 see cosmetic cracks in the matte once the gelcoat was removed from the
 underbody.  These cracks aligned with the bulkheads.  The bulkhead tabs had
 no fillets.  They were all 90 degree joints.  This created stress points at
 the joints which manifested themselves as the cosmetic cracks on the
 outside of the hull.

 I have been re-tabbing all the bulkheads with filleted joints.  I ground
 out the old tabbing, created fillets and re-tabbed with 4 inch biaxial
 tape.  To create the fillets, I put thickened epoxy in the joint and
 smoothed it with the back of a plastic spoon.  This creates a nice radius
 for the fillet.  The filleted joints spread the load.  This is particularly
 important in the forward section of the boat as that's where the boat
 pounds into waves.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville**, **LA

 ** **

 ** **
   --

 *From:* Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Sunday, December 16, 2012 4:29 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks

 ** **

 There is some tabbing in the bilge sump between floors and hull that has
 become detached.  I'll have that ground off and reattached and will add
 glass on the outside and fair.  Does anyone have access to any of the
 original layup schedules in that area?  I have copies of all the drawings
 that were available, but none were that specific on construction methods.
 

 ** **

 Thanks,

 ** **

 Tim

 Mojito

 CC 35-3 1984

 Branford**, **CT

 ** **

 On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins 
 cnclistforw...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Hi Tim
 I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached
 to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is
 not.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11


 Tim Goodyear wrote:

 Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from
 those who have re-habbed their keels on this model...
 I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in
 two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8 hairline
 crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast
 step is internally).  Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with
 major keel surgery?
 Rear of keel
 I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards
 have had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but
 still a tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just
 aft of the rear keel bolt (I removed the 

Re: Stus-List CC 37 advice

[William Hall]

We just bought a 1985 CC 37 this summer.  It is truly a delight to sail.
 It handles a big blow and swells well, but it still can ghost along nicely
in light air.  Very well balanced helm.
The location you describe is where our lpg tank goes.  Top flips open and
tank, solenoid etc are in there.  What year is the boat?
Bill Hall
1985 CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT


On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 9:55 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote:

 I'm looking for advice on the CC 37. the one I'm looking at Has the CNG
 stove and I'd like to convert to LPG. The obvious place to locate the tank
 is in one of the lazarette seats aft of the wheel. Unfortunately, though
 the seats appear to be opening hatches, the opening when viewed from below
 appears to have never been cut out. Has anyone else dealt with this? Am I
 missing something?
 I'm not going to be able to sea trial this boat, though I will have a
 thorough survey done. I ned to know that she will be as much of a delight
 to handle under sail as all the other CCs I've sailed; the 27, Viking 33,
 39, etc. Just looking fro some reassurance, here.

 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport, RI
 USA02840

 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 +401 965-5260
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Visible grid on the side of my CC 37+

[William Hall]

Might be from poor calibration of your teleporter.

Bill

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 12:45 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Listers,

 We hauled the Enterprise Saturday afternoon (so sad) and once everything
 was settled, I could see a visible grid on the starboard side of the hull
 above the waterline, 3 feet tall and about 6 feet wide.

 Should I be worried?

  All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37/40+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Websitehttp://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/





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Stus-List Barrier Coats

[William Hall]

Hi List,
I'm probably going to have our bottom redone this spring, and I'm
debating doing a barrier coat.
Has anyone out there done one a while ago (~10 years ago maybe) and
have results to report?  Is it holding up well?
Thanks,
Bill

CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT

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Stus-List WTB and Re: CC 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

[William Hall]

How do you jibe this setup? Do you have to attach a guy during the
jibe?  That sounds tricky!

My boat is new to me and came with an asymmetric chute that doesn't
measure well for PHRF - it's pretty small, yet I'm penalized for it on
the rating.  Any former racers out there have a functional symmetric
chute that they'd like to part with?  How about a pole?  Ideally, luff
length would be 50', foot / mid-girth would be 27'9 and pole would be
15'5

Bill Hall
1985 CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 8:12 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil wrote:
 On Beyond the Sea, we've had a few different setups.

 Originally we had 3/8 stayset for the sheets and an older,
 sorta-low-stretch 1/2 line for guys.

 I've never really had issues with the sheets, but the guys were too
 stretchy and in any sort of reaching condition they'd let the pole bang
 the forestay.

 This year we upgraded all of it.

 I used 3/8 ultra-tech for guys. With ronstan snap shackles and donuts
 to protect pole jaw

 For spin sheets, I spliced 1/4 spectra to some 3/8 Samson LS line,
 with the spectra exposed.  Effectively a stripped line, but without
 paying spectra-prices for the part that is laying on the cockpit floor
 under no load.  I think I went with 20' stripped, but I'd make it less
 if I had to do again. Maybe 15' next time.

 For shackles, I seem to do the opposite of everyone.

 I go for large bales for the spin sheets and small bales for the guys.
 My reasoning is this: the rings for the clews are sorta small, and
 there's not room for both shackles to attach, so I attach the sheet to
 the clew, and the guy to the sheet's shackle.  Hence the need for a
 large bale for the sheet.

 This allows us to take the guys off for light air nights without
 struggling with getting it out of the small-ish ring on the clew.

 I probably could stop using sheets and guys, and instead just go SHEETS
 with twings...but I have the crew all trained on sheets and guys, no
 need to solve a problem that isn't there. And yes, we end-for-end with
 this setup.

 -Keith M
 CC 35-3
 Beyond the Sea


 -Original Message-
 From: Indigo [mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us]
 Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 12:24
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List CC 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

 I am thinking of getting new spinnaker sheets made up this winter for
 Indigo.  I will probably go with standard snap-shackles as the Tylaska
 shackles are a luxury I do not really need.  I was wondering what line
 is recommended by other 35MKIII listers, and whether it makes sense to
 remove the cover (and how much).   I will be sticking with my older guys
 for at least another year or so.



 Jonathan

 Indigo

 35MIII - Southport CT








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203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu

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Stus-List WTB spinnaker gear

[William Hall]

Oops, I meant luff = 51'

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 8:48 AM, William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu wrote:
 My boat is new to me and came with an asymmetric chute that doesn't
 measure well for PHRF - it's pretty small, yet I'm penalized for it on
 the rating.  Any former racers out there have a functional symmetric
 chute that they'd like to part with?  How about a pole?  Ideally, luff
 length would be 50', foot / mid-girth would be 27'9 and pole would be
 15'5

 Bill Hall
 1985 CC 37 Starfire
 Stamford, CT

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