Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Chuck, Bill and any others: 

 

I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs.  Was hoping to 
make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a 
potential replacement.  Some people really like AGM, but my understanding is 
they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a mooring so cannot just 
plug in at the end of the day.  

 

Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries?  So far I 
have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How To” site, 
and Ocean Planet.  

 

I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any suggestions 
there as well.  Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” site.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM

 

Hey Bill, 

  

I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs.  I spent at least 
40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium batteries 
can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs.  But I don't have room on my 
boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all the modules and 
cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a lithium project way 
over my budget.   I am installing a Victron shunt to read my power useage and 
monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each battery, so I can 
always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted.

  

I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, 
chargers and coffee maker.   

  

Curious about your project. 

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis 

  



On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as 
yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of time 
researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium batteries may 
come down more in the future, I think because I need new batteries the time is 
now. 

  

Bill Coleman 

 

On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a ProNautic 
15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is necessary for correct 
charging of any lead-acid battery. It can charge 1, 2, or 3 batteries and has a 
lot of settings for various charge profiles.

It works fine, it is only being removed because I got a bigger charger. They 
sell for $350-$400 new, I will send this one to any USA address for $150 
shipped. Canada might be more, I would have to check.

(Odyssey battery company told me they want their battery charged with at least 
a 30 amp charger and ideally a lot more, apparently they need to be hit hard to 
stay good)

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Yanmar Parts ?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks for the names of places people have used.  

 

FWIW:  I found via some searching that it appears “marine diesel direct” is 
either renamed or more likely has consolidated with another company at:  
Discount Marine Source - Boating supplies and engine parts 
<https://discountmarinesource.com/>  

 

The selection of Yanmar parts offered seems vastly reduced to what the marine 
diesel direct site had, has pictures of a plain brown box vs photos of the 
actual Yanmar part [which I found helpful in confirming part identification] 
and  have not tried to compared prices to the others sites suggested.  

 

Brian

 

From: Peter W. via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2024 12:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter W. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Yanmar Parts ?

 

I’ve had good experiences with bay shore marine engines in Annapolis.

 

Pete W.

90 C&C 30-2

Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad





On Feb 13, 2024, at 10:45 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



I just tried their website. No luck. I ordered an oil cooler from Scott Marine 
Power. They're in Florida. Price seemed ok. Shipping was high, but I think it 
was my fault. 

 

Douglas Mountjoy
1988 C&C LF 39
Mexico at large
1984 Sabre 34
Port Orchard, WA


 

On Tue, Feb 13, 2024, 09:28 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi all,

 

I have ordered Yanmar parts from “marine diesel direct” for years as they had a 
good website that made finding the correct part fairly straight forward and 
they seemed to have good prices.  But I have not been able to connect with 
their website today, using multiple electronics.  They still show up in web 
searches, but no joy on connecting with the website.  Anybody else use them and 
/ or know what happened to them?  

 

More importantly, where are people getting Yanmar parts?  My local dealer is 
typically 30% or more higher which even after shipping charges makes online a 
better deal.  Am in CT and currently having the first real snow fall in years…  
5” and counting. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Yanmar Parts ?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

I have ordered Yanmar parts from "marine diesel direct" for years as they
had a good website that made finding the correct part fairly straight
forward and they seemed to have good prices.  But I have not been able to
connect with their website today, using multiple electronics.  They still
show up in web searches, but no joy on connecting with the website.  Anybody
else use them and / or know what happened to them?  

 

More importantly, where are people getting Yanmar parts?  My local dealer is
typically 30% or more higher which even after shipping charges makes online
a better deal.  Am in CT and currently having the first real snow fall in
years.  5" and counting. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thank you all for the suggestions, and for one not to contact.  I am putting 
the boat on the market so definitely do not want to add to a "required" work 
list just to get insurance coverage now. 

Thanks,
Brian

-Original Message-
From: JP Mail via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 9:11 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: JP Mail 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

Jim Dias
Accredited Marine Surveyors. 
Has a CT phone number. 
About as good as they get. Very thorough. 
He surveyed our 35-3 about 10 years ago. Recently saw him on Yacht Hunters 
(YouTube) so I guess he’s still out there working. 
Jon Pratt
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Surveyor in CT?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

All,

My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.
The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and
the policy renews in weeks. 

 

Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking
for a surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat
is in Branford for the winter. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Some other thoughts: 

 

For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have BOGO days on
winches during the year which could help reduce the wallet pain. 

 

Electric winches are more than a little $ more.  Have heard / read good
things about the "eWincher" as a viable alternative for people who do not
want to make the investment in electric winches.  

 

Brian

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 1:25 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Jeffrey A. Laman

Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34

 

Mike,

Thanks for the data point.  The two boats are very similar.  I don't think
Lewmar makes a 43 anymore.  I am seeing a 40 and a 45.  According to the
Lewmar charts a 40 is correctly sized for the C&C34.  But, I am thinking
about the 45 -- either Lewmar or other manufacturer -- to include the aging
muscles factor...

Jeff

  _  

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 12:48 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34 

 

Hi Jeff

 

We have a Frers 33.  The foretriangle dimensions are similar.  On F33
I=45.0, J=13.33 . On C&C34 I=44, J=14

 

We have Lewmar 43 ST for primaries and they are adequately sized

 

On a side note we purchased Lewmar 30ST for cabintop halyard winches in
2014.  I think they have doubled in price since then so be prepared for
sticker shock

 

Mike  Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com  

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 11:46 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman mailto:jlam...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34

 

Hello all, I have attempted to search the archives for information and
opinions on new primary winches for C&C34, but was not able to locate a
discussion. If there has been, my apologies. It has become apparent that the
old, Lewmar, self-tailing, 

Hello all,

I have attempted to search the archives for information and opinions on new
primary winches for C&C34, but was not able to locate a discussion.  If
there has been, my apologies.  It has become apparent that the old, Lewmar,
self-tailing, 2-spd winches that came on my boat are not adequate -- in a
moderate wind with a 155 genoa it takes two crew cranking with all their
strength to bring the sheet in far enough.  I and the crew are not getting
younger, either -- average age about 65 to 70.  I don't know the details of
gear ratios and power ratio for these old Lewmars, but am investigating so I
have that as a reference.  If any of you C&C34, or similar sized boat,
owners have recommendations for replacement, 2-spd, self-tailing winches, I
would be grateful.  I frequently sail solo and hope to be able to continue
for another 10 to 15 years (if I live to be 80!), so I need to factor that
in the decision.  Also, any experiences or recommendations for the actual
removal and installation would be great too!  Thanks.

 

Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34 Harmony

Ludington, MI

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Stus-List Re: Long Island sound

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

The Thimbles in Branford, CT are all privately owned so no going ashore, and 
the current can be strong when the tides change, causing boats and anchor rodes 
to become entangled.  A kellet or weight to keep your rode below keel and 
rudder can help.   

 

North of Charles Island in Milford, CT is a nice anchorage.  There are a couple 
marinas up in Milford if you want to tie up, go to shops, etc.   Have never 
been. 

 

North of Northport – Long Island  [just south of the 4 stacks] is also a nice 
anchorage, long trip in though fairly well protected.  

 

Oyster Bay is another good spot.  Can anchor, grab a town mooring, or stop at 
Seawanhaka Corinthian YC if you have reciprocal.  Sagamore Hill [Teddy 
Roosevelt’s home] is on top of the eastern shore of Oyster Bay.  Believe best 
access is in to the Oyster Bay marina in town a take a taxi / uber.  West 
Harbor is shallow: 7’ – 8’.  I draw 7’ so never been in there.  

 

September is the best month for LIS so your timing is perfect.  

 

Brian

 

From: rockland bazemore via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2023 12:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: rockland bazemore 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Long Island sound

 

Hey Joel, I think the Thimble Islands on the CT coast are pretty neat. We also 
loved going up to Essex on the CT river. The Griswold Inn there has a fantastic 
sea shanty night.  Northport is a nice little town. Oyster bay has a couple 
nice anchorages. Ziegler's Cove is a pretty anchorage as well.

Hylas hm nice! Have a great time.

 

 

-- 

Rockland Bazemore

S/V Blue Pearl

C&C 37/40+

Annapolis, MD

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Stus-List Re: Hull painting

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Richard, 

 

I am looking at a potential next boat which might need some topside painting, 
and a very knowledgeable friend said while Awlgrip is the hardest surface, the 
pigment is not consistent through the paint thickness which makes any scratches 
more apparent.  Awlcraft, while a little softer surface, is easier to apply 
initially and repair in the future. 

 

FWIW - He had his last 2 boats painted with Alexseal and they looked great 
after 8 years.  Easy to apply and can be repaired.  

 

Brian

 

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2023 11:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull painting

 

Danny; thanks, that's good to know; I think our big problem is a lack of 
experience with Awlgrip around here...; I'll take a look at the stars and 
stripes blue on the chart!

 

Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

On Tuesday, August 22, 2023 at 06:21:29 AM EDT, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Hi Richard, 

1st, I'm sorry for the ordeal you're going through.  I had a similar episode a 
few years ago.  I haven't heard anything about iron but, awlgrip is repairable. 
 Certain colors are more difficult to blend but, I've never heard anyone say 
awgrip couldn't be repaired.  There is also awlcraft 2000 which is supposed to 
be easier to repair.  When I had Rum Runner painted we went with awgrip on the 
top sides and awlcraft 2000 for the deck and mast.  I was very happy with the 
results. 

 

As far as color, flag blue is always stunning.  We went with stars and stripes 
blue on Rum Runner.  It's a beautiful color but, it's one that's hard to blend. 
 However, there were some repairs done to that and, it wasn't that bad to my 
eye.  Awlgrip is a really tough finish.  I'm not sure if I'd go for something 
else given awlgrip's history and reputation.  UNLESS, there was a huge cost 
savings in the product and they could point me to happy customers with the iron.

 

Best of luck! 

Danny

 

On Aug 22, 2023 12:51 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi all, we are in the midst of trying to repair  damages to our hull (1985 C&C 
37 CB) which stemmed from another boat parting its dock line in a storm and 
laying against our hull for 2+ hours, tearing the paint and gelcoat from the 
waterline to the rub rail. It's a long tale of woe, however, we are nearing the 
part of our project where painting the hull topsides is being discussed.  The 
boat was painted with Awlgrip about 10 years ago (prior to our ownership), and 
that finish has held up well. Also, because of the paint being 10 years old, it 
has been "strongly recommended" that the entire hull be repainted, rather than 
the damaged area only, with which we agree. I "assumed" that we would go back 
with the same Awlgrip product, however, the repair people have suggested that 
Imron would be a better product because scratches and dings can be repaired 
more easily.  They advised that the old Awlgrip would be sanded off and the a 
base coat and clear coating over the color coat.  

Does anyone on the list have any experience with Imron paints (marine, of 
course); or Imron vs Awlgrip: 

 

Another qualifier is that our area (Ohio River) is not a big boating community 
and there are few boating repair facilities here; (getting the boat to the 
repair facility is a whole other story all by itself!) 

 

One last point, is, color; our hull is the C&C factory white, don;t know the 
name, but its an off-white almost cream color; we are thinking of going back 
with flag blue or navy blue; any thoughts here are welcome as well. 

 

As always, thank you and let me know if you have any questions!

 

Richard

1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220

(502) 584-7255

 

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Another great suggestion from the list.  

 

Unfortunately, it turns out there appears to be a leak in the tank itself, 
though how is a mystery given it was replaced in 2018.  Need to obtain some 
additional jerry cans and pump out the diesel so can look at the bottom of the 
tank.  

 

The adventure continues…  

 

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2023 1:14 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

 

A piece of a plastic bag tied to a string, then sucked with a shop vac works 
well, I would be concerned that cotton could get wet and not be effective. We 
used the bag method often for sucking a string through up to 300' of conduit 
underground. 


--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> 

S/V Halcyon Passage

https://www.facebook.com/halcyonpassage

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 (for sale)

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 4:25 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I meant "golf" ball

 

 

 

Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2023-06-17 14:31 (GMT-05:00) 

To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com> > 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement 

 

A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option

 

Marek 

 

 

 

Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00) 

To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net <mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net>  

Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement 

 

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.  

 

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list. 

 

I will post how it goes….

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens mailto:jonathantebb...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

 

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.

Jon Tebbens

78 Mega

Katherine 

 

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

 

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0
 
<https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds>
 
&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Here's one for $1

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0
 
<https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds>
 
&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.  

 

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list. 

 

I will post how it goes….

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

 

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.

Jon Tebbens

78 Mega

Katherine 

 

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

 

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0
 
<https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds>
 
&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Here's one for $1

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0
 
<https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds>
 
&gclid=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck. 

 

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.  

 

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.  

 

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.  

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….  

 

TIA

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu




 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo

Stus-List Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I
found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit –
if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾”
(?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which
is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood
and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through
another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck. 

 

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
icebox with the old hose in place.  

 

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.  

 

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am
not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through
small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull
new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in
the new hose to have good material all around.  

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….  

 

TIA

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Anode Question

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I had the “fish” shaped zinc and found the wire corrodes and breaks off right 
above the zinc.  

 

For the past 10+ years have been getting shaft zincs from Boatzincs.com which 
are milspec.   They are more expensive than other sources for zincs, but after 
getting some pink “fire” of de-zincification on an old prop switched to Boat 
Zincs.  They also seem to last longer than the cheaper ones from Defender [from 
China] or WM. 

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/hanging_anode_zinc.htmlAlso more expensive, but 
considerably less than a new prop…  

 

Just make certain whatever you clip a hanging zinc to is well grounded to the 
boat.  

 

Brian

 

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2022 10:07 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Anode Question

 

Defender (and others) sell those pre-made.

 

https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=Zin040A

 

Ken H.

 

On Fri, 25 Nov 2022 at 09:45, Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Guys,

 

So, I'm leaving the boat in the water this winter (thanks to all who responded 
to that earlier question), and I need to replace the anode or, add one somehow. 
 I was thinking maybe I could attach a wire somewhere and dangle the an anode 
over the side, attached to the wire.  I think it might be too cold for a diver 
at this point.

 

Or, if anyone knows of a diver that could do the job in Portsmouth RI, that 
would be great too.  I did call one that the yard gave me but, he didn't return 
the call.

 

Thanks In advance for any suggestions.

 

Danny

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Ken Heaton

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: mast blocks

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Delete from the end back to   /18/   and it will take you to the correct
page. Or go to the home page, click "Shop" and go to page 18

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 3:22 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast blocks

 

Bad link

 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800

  _  

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 1:53:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Jeff Nelson mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast blocks 

 

Like these:
https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/page/18/?_categories=mast-plates

On 2022-10-31 14:31, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:

What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one attaches turning
blocks to?  I need to add one to my 35-1.  Does it attach to the mast, deck,
or deck collar?  I'd prefer not to add more holes to the deck. 

 

Bob Mann 

Mystic 

35-1 hull #85 





-- 
Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Re: Water Heater?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

The Isotherm units are highly recommended - and very expensive, as in more
than 2X.  On a different boat I planned on keeping for years I might
consider one, but right now just need something to provide hot water for
dishes.  

 

Anyone have any thoughts on galvanized steel casing vs white epoxy on
aluminum?  The interior workings of the two versions of tanks are identical,
at least as far as I can tell.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2022 5:45 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Water Heater?'s

 

I have very good results with the ISOTherm (ISOTemp SPA) (e.g.:
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/isotemp/ ). Very good quality and
they are a bit smaller (because they are round, without the box around it).
They also come with the temperature regulator.

 

But this is a different brand, so may not be a good option for you.

 

Marek

Ottawa, ON

 

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Sent: September 10, 2022 12:20
To: 'Stus-List' <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net <mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> 
Subject: Stus-List Water Heater?'s

 

My 4 yr old water heater started leaking as I was filling it for the first
time this year.  It is a 6 gal. Seaward [Whale] unit and only connected to
the engine coolant circuit [no A/C on board, just 12 V]  

 

Planning to replace it with the same unit as that "should" be the easiest /
quickest. Two questions for the group: 

 

1] The heater comes in galvanized steel and white epoxy versions.  The
latter is more $ but is it worth it from a corrosion or other standpoint?
It is not visible so aesthetics are not important. 

 

2]  Found both units on Amazon for less than Defender and other
distributors.  Has anyone bought parts / equipment from Amazon Marine?
Usually Amazon delivers when they indicate, but I ordered some ink for a
home printer and it still has not been delivered after 8 weeks.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

Ps - Very sad news about Rob.  Amazing how a "simple" fall can cause a
cascade of events.  Not much comfort, but at least it was tangentially
boating related.  

 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Water Heater?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Am more than a little annoyed that it started leaking having just replaced it.  
The original had been in the boat for ~ 30 years… 

 

Two working theories: 

 

1] Winterizing the water system last fall I drained the heater tank and 
separated it from the water system [which was filled with antifreeze] but did 
nothing more to the heater.  First time I had not put antifreeze in the heater 
tank… 

 

2] The engine was at normal temps when arrived at the dock and began to fill 
the water system – with cold water.  Thought I might have heard a pop from the 
area of the tank.  Could the hot engine coolant running through the empty 
heater  tank heated it sufficiently that the cold water put into the tank 
itself caused it to crack?  Have seen hot glass shatter when cold water drips 
on it…  

 

Brian 

 

From: ssjohnson via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2022 1:58 PM
To: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Water Heater?'s

 

4 years old???   Mine is probably original vintage 1984!!!  6 gal Raritan.

Time for a different brand...

 

Spencer Johnson 

84 LF 38 "Alegria "

Racine, WI

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

 Original message ----

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 9/10/22 10:19 AM (GMT-06:00) 

To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net <mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net>  

Subject: Stus-List Water Heater?'s 

 

My 4 yr old water heater started leaking as I was filling it for the first time 
this year.  It is a 6 gal. Seaward [Whale] unit and only connected to the 
engine coolant circuit [no A/C on board, just 12 V]  

 

Planning to replace it with the same unit as that “should” be the easiest / 
quickest. Two questions for the group: 

 

1] The heater comes in galvanized steel and white epoxy versions.  The latter 
is more $ but is it worth it from a corrosion or other standpoint?   It is not 
visible so aesthetics are not important. 

 

2]  Found both units on Amazon for less than Defender and other distributors.  
Has anyone bought parts / equipment from Amazon Marine?  Usually Amazon 
delivers when they indicate, but I ordered some ink for a home printer and it 
still has not been delivered after 8 weeks.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

Ps – Very sad news about Rob.  Amazing how a “simple” fall can cause a cascade 
of events.  Not much comfort, but at least it was tangentially boating related… 
 

 

 

Stus-List Water Heater?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

My 4 yr old water heater started leaking as I was filling it for the first
time this year.  It is a 6 gal. Seaward [Whale] unit and only connected to
the engine coolant circuit [no A/C on board, just 12 V]  

 

Planning to replace it with the same unit as that "should" be the easiest /
quickest. Two questions for the group: 

 

1] The heater comes in galvanized steel and white epoxy versions.  The
latter is more $ but is it worth it from a corrosion or other standpoint?
It is not visible so aesthetics are not important. 

 

2]  Found both units on Amazon for less than Defender and other
distributors.  Has anyone bought parts / equipment from Amazon Marine?
Usually Amazon delivers when they indicate, but I ordered some ink for a
home printer and it still has not been delivered after 8 weeks.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

Ps - Very sad news about Rob.  Amazing how a "simple" fall can cause a
cascade of events.  Not much comfort, but at least it was tangentially
boating related.  

 

 

Stus-List Re: Simrad Autopilot Repair

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Dennis and Dwight, 

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Have decided to get a new unit and explore what 
the repair charges might be to possibly have this TP 30 as a back up.  Both WM 
and Defender have the TP 32 at that same price so is a matter of which can get 
it to me sooner.  WM has free ship to store, but my experience with their 
deliveries to store, pre-pandemic, were not very timely.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2022 6:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Simrad Autopilot Repair

 

Don't expect flawless service like that provided from any newer units. They all 
have issues. If you can get it fixed: keep it

 

On Sat, Aug 20, 2022 at 7:41 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Brian,

 

There's a seller on eBay with two brand new TP32's for sale for $899 and free 
shipping.  I'd definitely condsider that route.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

 

On Fri, Aug 19, 2022, 9:15 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All,

 

I have a Simrad TP [tiller pilot] 30 which has started to do hard over “crazy 
Ivan’s” with increasing frequency, to the point it does it within 3-4 minutes 
of turning it on.  

 

Has anybody had a similar situation and solved it?  At first I would turn it 
off, let it rest for 10 – 20 minutes and try it again for several hours if not 
a full day.  That is not cutting it now.  5+ years ago I used it for several 
double handed races and it did sit in salt water that could not drain out the 
scuppers fast enough while in Standby mode – was a rough day.  So salt water 
may have gotten into the electronics.  

 

Has anyone used the Simrad repair facilities with any success?Is it worth 
attempting a repair or am I better off just buying a new unit, the TP 32?  I 
have had this unit for over 10 years, so can rationalize buying new and not 
playing with repairing this unit. Especially if I want to use it this season.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Simrad Autopilot Repair

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

All,

 

I have a Simrad TP [tiller pilot] 30 which has started to do hard over
"crazy Ivan's" with increasing frequency, to the point it does it within 3-4
minutes of turning it on.  

 

Has anybody had a similar situation and solved it?  At first I would turn it
off, let it rest for 10 - 20 minutes and try it again for several hours if
not a full day.  That is not cutting it now.  5+ years ago I used it for
several double handed races and it did sit in salt water that could not
drain out the scuppers fast enough while in Standby mode - was a rough day.
So salt water may have gotten into the electronics.  

 

Has anyone used the Simrad repair facilities with any success?Is it
worth attempting a repair or am I better off just buying a new unit, the TP
32?  I have had this unit for over 10 years, so can rationalize buying new
and not playing with repairing this unit. Especially if I want to use it
this season.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

Stus-List Re: Tiller wobble

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I had a similar wobble with a small gap between the lower roller bearing on
the rudder post and the boat “tube” built into the hull.  Noticed it when on
the hard for the winter I could rock the rudder by hand and see the bearing
move back and forth.   I found a large O ring of the correct diameter
[believe on McMaster Carr] to just fit around the bearing with a thickness
about ½ of the slack space, dropped the rudder slightly and rolled the O
ring onto the bearing near the top.  Reinstalled the rudder.  Took a bit to
work the rudder back in, but the O ring did fill the space and eliminated
the slack.  Did this ~ 15 years ago and it still is tight.  I think the idea
came from this list – way back when.

 

This may or may not work for your situation.  

 

Brian

 

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2022 3:20 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Tiller wobble

 

My 1980 34 C&C has a tiller that wobbles excessively when running with
engine at 3,000 rpm.  A cursory inspection does not show any adjustment or
easy bearing replacement.  All bolts are tight. There is some slack, maybe
1/8" when testing the tiller by moving back and forth at the dock. Has
anyone else experienced this?  Is there a known easy solution short of
replacement?  Should I be concerned.  This seems to have gotten worse over
the years.

Korbey, SV Oz

 

Get Outlook for Android  

Stus-List Re: Bed-It butyl tape

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Hey Chuck,

 

Try this link –   I just successfully put it in the cart to test it.  Did not 
try to check out though as still have some ordered from Rod before his event. 

 

 

 Bed-It Bed-It Tape (sailboatowners.com)  

 

Brian

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 12:07 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Bed-It butyl tape

 

Looking to buy a new roll of Bed-it butyl tape.  Anybody buy it recently? 

 

Seems the old supplier has a dead end link to "sailboatowners.com".

 

I tried a few google searches but they were all dead ends except one selling a 
roll for $40.  I have a roll from SailRite that is crap.  It was fine when new, 
but after some months onboard this summer, it's now a real struggle to remove 
from it's own wax paper and stretches and breaks.  Had to use a putty knife to 
get the wax paper off.

 

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis

Stus-List Re: Annapolis Rigging Still in Business?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

Thanks for the response, and that seems to match the current situation.  They 
do not seem to be very organized as an ongoing business, nor looking out beyond 
the current “excess” demand for their services.  That will change when the 
economy changes… 

 

I did finally receive a call back from Jay, but unfortunately it was moot.  We 
were in the final step of purchasing a “new” 20 yo boat and part of the 
contract had the standing rod rigging replaced.  Within our post – survey 
vessel acceptance / decline decision period the seller decided he was no longer 
going to move the boat to the rigger nor pay his share, as was provided in the 
purchase contract.  We are 280 miles away and do not have the time to drive 
back and forth to do that.  We said that and that there was a heavily 
negotiated contract which he had signed.  The next day he declared the decision 
period had expired and the contract was now terminated.  We were dumbfounded.  
The boat had some other issues which also were to have been taken care of by 
the seller but were not, but this was too much to keep working on it.  
Especially with an untrustworthy seller.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2022 9:25 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Annapolis Rigging Still in Business?

 

Sorry for the late response, Brian I had to think about this one. As far as I 
know, they are still in business. Having said that, my experience with them has 
been less of them stellar. I was a little apprehensive of them, as they had 
stiffed me for a bill around $100 some 16 or 17 years ago. Then, about 4 years 
ago I got a boat that happened to be in Jabin's Yard where Annapolis rigging is 
located. The previous owner had put a 50% deposit on a Duneema backstay Jay was 
supposed to produce. He was nice enough to let me borrow a sawzall I needed to 
get the mast out. And I thought maybe I've misjudged this fellow. I was pretty 
happy for the loan at the time, so  I sent him $100 worth of extra Sazall 
blades. Then I had him rebuild a couple of SailTec backstay adjusters that he 
was qualified to repair. It took many calls ( unanswered or unreplied to,) 
trips by myself and others and finally just going over there and getting them 
from one of his employees - he said that they weren't completely bench tested, 
but I said That's okay Just give them to me and I'll pay you. He said the 
dynema back stays were on backorder, coming from Europe, and would take another 
6 months. Well, long story short, (too late)I never got the backstays, but I 
did get to talk to a fellow at Annapolis Boat Show who represented the company 
that makes the dyneema backstays, ( can't remember the name right now )and he 
arranged to have them made in just a couple of weeks through through The 
Rigging Company, which is just west of Annapolis rigging by about 300 or 400 
ft.   I'm guessing probably a former employee who saw that people needed 
another alternative. So I ended up getting the back stay for four grand from 
the Rigging  Company and lost 1800 to Jay. One of life's lessons. As my 
daughter always says, life is hard.

Bill Coleman

Entrada Erie PA 

 

On Sat, Jun 25, 2022, 05:58 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Does anyone in the Annapolis area know if Annapolis Rigging is still in 
business? 

 

Their voice mail box is full and is not accepting any calls.  Jay does not 
respond to emails. 

 

Am not local [~ 280 miles away] so cannot just drive by. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I had a similar situation.  Turned out to be a separated / broken wire within 
the wire harness behind the panel.  The 30 yo wires eventually just broke.  The 
mechanic used several butt connectors to reconnect the wires, skipping part of 
the harness.  Has worked for 5 years.  

 

Brian

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, July 7, 2022 10:00 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

 

I had this happen this weekend. Was losing power at the panel. I thought it was 
the terminal on the starter at first but ended up being a lose terminal for the 
control panel. Luckily, I was rafted next to a master marine electrician. He 
figured it out in about two minutes. 

 

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, July 7, 2022 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jeff Nelson mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

 

It's not for the starter...It is for power to the control panel.  It just 
happens to be behind the starter on top of the engine...
Which in my opinion is a really stupid place to hide it, and took me forever to 
find.



-- 
Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C

 

On 2022-07-07 10:42, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List wrote:

That fuse holder is especially syrange- starters are the exception to the rule 
that all loads should have appropriate rated fuses or breakers 

 

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:36 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Had this happen to me.  Mine has an obscure fuse right side facing aft, near 
the starter.  My fuse holder had
cracked and was intermittently permitting things to work perfectly or not at 
all.  Check that, and the ground
as others have mentioned.  



-- 
Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C.

On 2022-07-07 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:

Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.  
Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the race 
and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.  Fortunately, I was 
able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a problem.  I will be 
going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem and wanted to see if 
anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal experience.   

 

Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two batteries 
just to be sure and still nothing happens.

Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over. 

 I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when pressed 
and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the glow plug 
button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a real PITA to get 
to.   

 

Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing that 
happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the genoa sheet 
got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I checked and the 
cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn over even if it were 
pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not start.  

 

So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean both 
and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT

 

 

 

 

-- 
Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 - 549
  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Annapolis Rigging Still in Business?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Does anyone in the Annapolis area know if Annapolis Rigging is still in
business? 

 

Their voice mail box is full and is not accepting any calls.  Jay does not
respond to emails. 

 

Am not local [~ 280 miles away] so cannot just drive by. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

Stus-List Re: Interior paint

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I painted the interior ceiling of the head ~ 11 years ago using Brightside 
[Interlux] and mixed in a little of their dulling agent to tone down the high 
shine of the enamel surface and it remains looking great.  Did as Dennis 
suggested, using the mini foam roller other than cutting in the edges, with 
foam brushes.  Only prep was wiping down [repeatedly] with a clean cloth with 
one of the Interlux solvents – think it was 202 but possibly 216, cannot be 
certain at this point.  

 

Very easy prep and very easy painting.  No mess in the interior.  The surface 
was in good condition, so that helped. There was the paint smell, but that 
lasted only a day or so. 

 

Plan to do the same in the forepeak this summer. 

 

Brian

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:39 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  I hate to play the Admiral’s card here, but she will definitely like the 
no sanding, no dust, and no paint smell better than have to do a clean up to 
the entire interior.  Just sayin’   Ron

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Hmmm – just as I was zeroing in on a type of paint.  The vinyl-covered panel 
idea separated by teak molding was my original plan.  Now you have me waffling. 
 

 

From: rjcasciato--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 3:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt:  

Your first thought might be the best one depending on how handy you are with 
making panels from “door skins”……

 

My 38MKII was custom built in the Bruckman shop in 1977.  They fashioned 
several panels running fore and aft on either side of the center line and 
covered them with an upholstery type vinyl. Then they used Velcro (1977 
version???) around the back edge of each panel and stuck it to the ceiling. 

 

So, 45 years later, that vinyl??? is still intact and still white.   The Velcro 
has now failed on several panels and my project for the summer is to use the 
original panels and recover them with a new version of similar vinyl sourced 
from Marine Surplus, Inc. in Sarasota Florida. If you don’t have the panels 
already, you can make a template from cardboard or contractors’ paper and trace 
the roof outline, around the openings, etc. The stuff comes in 4 x 8 size. My 
ceiling is divided across port to starboard about 4-5’ forward of the 
companionway.  That means that I will have 8 very manageable panels that are 
separated by the teak strip mentioned below and then butted up against each 
other at that lateral dividing line.

 

There will be no sanding, filling, and painting involved.  I will, however, use 
screws instead of Velcro into the original ceiling with screw covers (Lowe’s) 
and be done with it for another 45 years.  

 

If I can find a picture of how it looked with it all up, I will post it.  They 
separated the panels fore and aft with a center strip (2”) of teak, and I have 
two handrails fore and aft on either side of the centerline about 20” apart 
from the centerline.  That gives the ceiling a finished look without looking 
like a big white sheet of vinyl.  

 

As far as the “tired look”, I have also replaced all the countertops with a new 
white laminate, and new sinks.  It certainly freshens up the interior……..

 

It’s an easy way to freshen up the interior, I agree with your admiral. I’m 
giving thought to having one of those “redo your bathroom in one day” folks 
come and give me an estimate on redoing my head compartment……wood certainly 
does not belong in the head Especially after 45 years of service.

 

Have fun with it, good luck and post the results.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C&C 38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:martin.deyo...@outlook.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Interior paint

 

Matt, 

 

I painted Calypso’s fiberglass overhead with Brightside this winter. I prepped 
by removing 40+ years of old paint and primers then faired and sealed with 
epoxy materials. In many places I was fairing over repairs.

 

I used an epoxy based high build primer, several coats as a sealer and 
transition coat. The results were good assuming I throttled back my 
expectations from “the look of the hood on a fancy car” to better than the 
right rear quarter panel of a pickup truck.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 

 

On Jun 24, 2022, at 6:15 AM, Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers:

 

As some of you may have surmised by my recent question ab

Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  Will take a closer look at Log Pond / Havre de Grace marina -
and yes they appear to be affiliated.  They are closer to the C&D than
Annapolis / Kent Island area but we have car logistics to juggle as well.
Much more fun to be looking at planning this than what should be happening
today. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Stus-List ; Neil Andersen

Subject: Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Used to be

 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800

  _  

From: Josh via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:21:04 PM
Cc: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >; Josh
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake 

 

Maybe.  I don't know. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

 

May 26, 2022 12:02:50 PM Neil Andersen :

Isn't  Log Pond affiliated with Havre de Grace Marina just above the bridge?


 

Neil Andersen, W3NEA  

Rock Hall, MD 21661 

484-354-8800 

  _  

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:51:14 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake 

  

I don't know if Brian Fry is still on the list but he lives on his boat(S)
out of Havre De Grace.  It is a bit of a stretch up the river but I imagine
the slips are pretty cost effective.  I believe he's at Log Pond IIRC?  It's
a marina tied to condos.  Marine services are not their  bread and butter so
if you're looking for full service you should probably look elsewhere but
the floating docks and break wall are certainly nice enough to store a boat
for a month. 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk  

1989 C&C 37+ 

Solomons, MD  

 

On Thu, May 26, 2022, 10:19 Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

Brian, 

 

I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but a
much cheaper option.  Check with the harbormaster.  There are several
marinas just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if
they have space.  Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River.  I
can't recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you
find the right place. 

 

Joel 

 

On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

All, 

We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks to
a month this July.  Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips or
moorings that might not break the bank for a transient?  Do not need lots of
amenities and services [at least hope not.]  Water and pump out, clean fuel
a plus.  

 

The plan would be to eventually head north through the C&D and on to NYC and
western LIS.  Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or Uber
back to the yard prior to departing.  Have looked at Jabin's and Port
Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be
less, though maybe not.  Harge's or Herrington Harbor North would be making
a longer trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to
a rental car return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad.  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

Thanks,

Brian




 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks you Joe.  That is much better than the Annapolis rates I have found so 
far. 

 

Will give Danielle a call.  Not sure of our dates yet but good to make the 
contact.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:12 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

For 40 feet for a month $450/month + $50 for electricity.

You can call Castle Marina at 410-643-5599 and ask for Danielle to make 
arrangements. 

 

 

Joe

Coquina

 

 

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:52 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> ; 
nausetbe...@optonline.net <mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Hi Joe,

 

Thanks Joe.  A very kind offer.  40’ and 5’  

 

Am not receiving all the list emails – neither my first posting nor your first 
reply has not shown up [yet] but this one did.  If you would also copy me 
directly at nausetbeach  AT  optonline.net there is a better chance of me 
seeing your email.  My ISP is a pita with uneven screening of emails, some get 
through but some do not.  

 

Many thanks,

Brian

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:35 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Can you let me know your LOA and draft?

Thanks

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:32 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

The moorings in Annapolis are not intended for storage of unoccupied boats, the 
harbormaster will have a fit if they figure out you are not there. Also $35/day 
can add up.

My marina on the north side of Kent Island is usually quite a bit cheaper than 
Annapolis, if you come here you’ll be the 3rd lister in the marina. I’ll check 
the rates for a month. We have water, fuel, a pool, pumpout, and a hot tub.

 

Joe 

Coquina

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:19 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Brian,

 

I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but a 
much cheaper option.  Check with the harbormaster.  There are several marinas 
just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if they have 
space.  Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River.  I can't 
recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you find the 
right place.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All, 

We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks to a 
month this July.  Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips or 
moorings that might not break the bank for a transient?  Do not need lots of 
amenities and services [at least hope not.]  Water and pump out, clean fuel a 
plus.  

 

The plan would be to eventually head north through the C&D and on to NYC and 
western LIS.  Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or Uber 
back to the yard prior to departing.  Have looked at Jabin’s and Port 
Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be less, 
though maybe not.  Harge’s or Herrington Harbor North would be making a longer 
trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to a rental car 
return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad.  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

Thanks,

Brian




 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

 

Thanks Joe.  A very kind offer.  40’ and 5’  

 

Am not receiving all the list emails – neither my first posting nor your first 
reply has not shown up [yet] but this one did.  If you would also copy me 
directly at nausetbeach  AT  optonline.net there is a better chance of me 
seeing your email.  My ISP is a pita with uneven screening of emails, some get 
through but some do not.  

 

Many thanks,

Brian

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:35 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Can you let me know your LOA and draft?

Thanks

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:32 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

The moorings in Annapolis are not intended for storage of unoccupied boats, the 
harbormaster will have a fit if they figure out you are not there. Also $35/day 
can add up.

My marina on the north side of Kent Island is usually quite a bit cheaper than 
Annapolis, if you come here you’ll be the 3rd lister in the marina. I’ll check 
the rates for a month. We have water, fuel, a pool, pumpout, and a hot tub.

 

Joe 

Coquina

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:19 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Brian,

 

I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but a 
much cheaper option.  Check with the harbormaster.  There are several marinas 
just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if they have 
space.  Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River.  I can't 
recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you find the 
right place.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All, 

We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks to a 
month this July.  Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips or 
moorings that might not break the bank for a transient?  Do not need lots of 
amenities and services [at least hope not.]  Water and pump out, clean fuel a 
plus.  

 

The plan would be to eventually head north through the C&D and on to NYC and 
western LIS.  Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or Uber 
back to the yard prior to departing.  Have looked at Jabin’s and Port 
Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be less, 
though maybe not.  Harge’s or Herrington Harbor North would be making a longer 
trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to a rental car 
return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad.  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

Thanks,

Brian




 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel.  Will look into both areas.  Am currently looking at Dockwa.  
Getting the Waterway Guide is on the list. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:19 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

 

Brian,

 

I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but a 
much cheaper option.  Check with the harbormaster.  There are several marinas 
just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if they have 
space.  Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River.  I can't 
recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you find the 
right place.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All, 

We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks to a 
month this July.  Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips or 
moorings that might not break the bank for a transient?  Do not need lots of 
amenities and services [at least hope not.]  Water and pump out, clean fuel a 
plus.  

 

The plan would be to eventually head north through the C&D and on to NYC and 
western LIS.  Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or Uber 
back to the yard prior to departing.  Have looked at Jabin’s and Port 
Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be less, 
though maybe not.  Harge’s or Herrington Harbor North would be making a longer 
trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to a rental car 
return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad.  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

Thanks,

Brian




 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Marinas - Northern Chesapeake

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

All, 

We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks to
a month this July.  Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips or
moorings that might not break the bank for a transient?  Do not need lots of
amenities and services [at least hope not.]  Water and pump out, clean fuel
a plus.  

 

The plan would be to eventually head north through the C&D and on to NYC and
western LIS.  Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or Uber
back to the yard prior to departing.  Have looked at Jabin's and Port
Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be
less, though maybe not.  Harge's or Herrington Harbor North would be making
a longer trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to
a rental car return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad.  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

Thanks,

Brian

Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Chuck or anyone else,

 

We oiled the teak in the forepeak for the fist time last September, after 
removing 20+ yo varnish [a tedious job to say the least.]  How often do you 
clean the oiled teak as you described?  Each spring as part of your spring 
commissioning?  And as needed during the season? 

 

Any other oiled teak cleaning magic potions?  

 

A teak oil newbee…

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2022 1:47 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

 

I use Watco Teak oil available at Home Depot and Lowes if that's what your 
referring to.   I usually wipe the wood down with a cleaner like diluted 
Pinesol in a spray bottle.  Then I clean the wood with Denatured Alcohol and 
let dry.  Then use a soft terry cloth rag to wipe on some teak oil.  Let soak 
in and wipe off any excess.  It seals the wood and hides any dings and makes 
look very nice. 

 

Chuck S

On 05/06/2022 1:07 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Surely someone remembers the dialog on this list that identified the product 
used by C&C.  Google is your friend and I remember looking  at it on Loews and 
Home Depot.   No time to look myself but this project is on my spring todo 
list  

On 5/6/22 05:53, Allan Rheaume via CnC-List wrote: 

Hi Chad, 

  I sanded mine down and used Cetol. It lasted a good 15 years or 
so until I refinished again last year with the same stuff. 

 

Allan Rheaume 

Drumroll 30-2 #90 

 

On Thursday, May 5, 2022, 08:52:41 p.m. EDT, Chad Osmond via CnC-List  
  wrote: 

 

 

Anyone know what these were finished with? Looking to clean ours up and 
refinish the treads. 

 

It's matte and not a varnish. Maybe an oil? 

 

 

Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging > Rigging Grease

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

John,

 

What do you use for grease on the turnbuckles?  Have heard people recommend 
Lanocote, and have used that in the past.  Seems like any grease has the 
tendency to attract dust / dirt / salt etc. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 9:24 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe' ; John Read 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging

 

FWIW still have original rod rigging on a now 40 year old boat.  Had visually 
inspected over the winter by a rigger and everything appears fine.  Boat spent 
first 17 years in fresh water, balance in salt here in CT.  Rig taken down 
every winter.  Turnbuckles and heads greased every spring.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:41 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Now Rod Rigging

 

This is really something to think about when boat shopping.  For the C&C 40 
that I looked at and passed on because of hard grounding damage, the local 
riggers basically would not inspect the rig at all. They all told me more or 
less “it’s old, it needs replacing, we’ll probably damage fittings we can’t buy 
anymore if we try and get it apart”

Joe

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:26 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - 
Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

 

Just replaced 30 year old wire on my Hylas.  Everything still looked great 
until we removed the furler drum.  There was a LOT of corrosion under the 
furler.  

 

I've been told that for salt water boats the rod needs to be inspected and 
reheaded every 10 years and wire should be replaced at ten years (although few 
people do it)

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 10:22 AM MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Sort of.   I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. 
  I still have the original backstay which I re-headed.   The cost of doing an 
inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive.   In my opinion it is more cost 
effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected.In general it 
is best ro replace all  rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and 
how the boat was sailed.   The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at 
the 10 year mark for commercial boats.   Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the 
boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it.   

 

Just my opinion.

 

Sail safe, 

 

Mike 

 

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA 

 

On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new 
standing rigging?

Joe

Coquina

 

 

Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the responses.  

 

The foredeck repair would be on the current owner’s dime, so is very good to 
hear a very favorable review of them.  Thanks Joel.  Would prefer to have any 
unforeseen issues discovered once the deck is opened up while the owner is on 
the hook, than taking a price reduction and taking that repair risk.  

 

The standing rigging is something of a black hole, and I really appreciate all 
the comments.  Do not have firm information of if / when the rod / rigging was 
inspected.  Fortuitously,  John Harries [Attainable Adventure / Morgan’s Cloud] 
posted an article on inspecting roller furling, which reference earlier 
articles on inspecting spars and rigging.  He says what several of you have 
said; rod can last decades / 10’s of k offshore miles and the typical failure 
point, if it occurs, is the cold formed heads.  

 

Based on all these comments, am leaning toward having a “stepped mast” 
pre-purchase rigging inspection and then pulling the mast over the winter for a 
full inspection of all the heads / fittings / turnbuckles / rod cups on the 
mast, etc.  Assuming a purchase can happen…  Will contact Annapolis Rigging, M 
Yacht and a couple others in that area for pricing and availability.  RigPro is 
on the rigger list for a full inspection, though not overly convenient / local. 
 Sending any rigging needing replacement to Rigging Only or BSI might save some 
$$.  The distance between Fairhaven and Portsmouth is < 20 miles. 

 

FWIW – have also heard / read some saying one can rehead any rod, and others 
emphatically opining not to for continuous rod that passes over a spreader as 
the bend point over the spreaders will not line up again and leave the rod 
weakened.  Seems like something of an art vs. science field in general.  

 

Thanks again.  The collective knowledge of this list is amazing.  

 

Brian

 

From: MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:22 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: MICHAEL BRANNON 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, 
area Riggers

 

Sort of.   I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. 
  I still have the original backstay which I re-headed.   The cost of doing an 
inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive.   In my opinion it is more cost 
effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected.In general it 
is best ro replace all  rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and 
how the boat was sailed.   The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at 
the 10 year mark for commercial boats.   Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the 
boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it.   

 

Just my opinion.

 

Sail safe, 

 

Mike 

 

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA 





On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new 
standing rigging?

Joe

Coquina

 

 

From: MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 9:36 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: MICHAEL BRANNON mailto:ff1...@aol.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - 
Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

 

As a rigger I would go with Charlie Nelson’s recommendation.   To do a thought 
inspection of rod rigging it needs to be completely disassembles and the cold 
head looked at closely and possible NDT’d to ensure there are no cracks.   At 
almost 20 years old you most likely need to replace it.Rather than sending 
the rigging to BSI, or other places,   we measure it and have new rigging made 
to our dimensions.It saves you a little money.   

 

Just a thought 

 

Mike Brannon 

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA

 

 






On Apr 17, 2022, at 2:43 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

We recently looked at a boat on the Chesapeake which would need some deck balsa 
replacement work and a rigging inspection and possibly replacement of some / 
all (?) of the rod rigging.  

 

Osprey Composites at Herrington Harbor / Tracy’s Landing was recommended.  
Anybody have any information / opinion on them? 

 

The boat has 19 year old rod rigging and do not have firm information on the 
last time a rigging inspection was made – probably not in the past 11 - 12 
years when the current owner purchased the boat.  Can anyone recommend a good 
rigger who could do an inspection in the West River to Herrington Harbor 
vicinity?  The ability to inspect, and possibly fabricate new rod rigging is 
needed.  “The Rigging Company” is one name that keeps coming up.  Another is M 
Yacht Services rigging. Both seem to be on the higher end of the pricing 
spectrum.  Eastcoast Marine Rigging was another name, but am not certain 

Stus-List Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

We recently looked at a boat on the Chesapeake which would need some deck
balsa replacement work and a rigging inspection and possibly replacement of
some / all (?) of the rod rigging.  

 

Osprey Composites at Herrington Harbor / Tracy's Landing was recommended.
Anybody have any information / opinion on them? 

 

The boat has 19 year old rod rigging and do not have firm information on the
last time a rigging inspection was made - probably not in the past 11 - 12
years when the current owner purchased the boat.  Can anyone recommend a
good rigger who could do an inspection in the West River to Herrington
Harbor vicinity?  The ability to inspect, and possibly fabricate new rod
rigging is needed.  "The Rigging Company" is one name that keeps coming up.
Another is M Yacht Services rigging. Both seem to be on the higher end of
the pricing spectrum.  Eastcoast Marine Rigging was another name, but am not
certain if they have the capability / experience to fab new rod rigging.  Am
not looking to change to wire.  Any opinions / suggestions on these two ? 

 

Many thanks,

Brian

Stus-List Re: Defender Sale

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks John.  Any sense on the level of discount, or is it by item?  

 

In past events it seemed a 10% off most everything, in store and online,
other than the special sale items they had in different areas.  Bottom paint
is the biggest ticket item on my list. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2022 11:44 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Defender Sale

 

All,

 

For the local sale they do seem to have some decent discounts that should
carry over the online sale next week.

 

My suggestion is, if you have an online account, put things in your basket
now or at least know what the $$ is for your items before the sale and then
see how much the pricing changes when the sale starts on the 27th. Good
luck!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in the Baltimore/Annapolis Area?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Trim it before you send it!

All was well on the list format - then Dennis' and Bill's emails come
through as attachments...  

Anybody else have this happen? 

Brian

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2022 4:52 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Surveyor in the Baltimore/Annapolis Area?

Trim it before you send it!

Stus-List Re: List problems

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Text in the body - no attachment.  Nice! 

Outlook and Windows 10.  

MS may have changed something in Outlook that caused Outlook to change how
it handled the footer with link??  No idea, but there was a distinct
change when the cutting board footer link began.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2022 9:57 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'Stu' ; johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: List problems

Good here!

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2022 9:44 AM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List List problems

I guess I was wrong.  The problems started when I put the cutting board
footer in the emails.

Now we have identified the problem -- it is not with the list but
specifically with how some email programs and providers handle the emails.
What is disturbing is that one company decides what is best for you and all
the other companies do not see a problem.

Now as an experiment, I am adding a link to the body of this message. Let's
see how it goes through --

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stu
There are no links in this footer.
There are no links in this footer.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C&C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question > List as Text Attachements

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Am the same, also with Outlook, though a few rare ones come through with
actual text in the body of the email. 

 

Brian

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, March 6, 2022 6:10 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question

 

 

Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Stus test 1

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

All 3 of Stu's #'ed tests on Saturday afternoon came through clearly as
"normal" text emails. 

 

Steve Staten's "External" email came through clearly at 4:10 pm. 

 

ALL of the following 9 emails [Garry, Tom, Marek, Kevin, John, Ken and Doug]
came through with attachments and no text in the body of the email.  

 

I probably will not even see this email as my ISP seems to filter out many
from this group and they never arrive.  A small number end up in the Junk
file.  Am using Outlook.  

 

This all seemed to start shortly after the cutting boards were first
offered.  

 

Brian

 

From: Doug Robinson via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, February 5, 2022 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Robinson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Stus test 1

 

 

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I have been having the same issue of no text in the body of the email.
Thanks to Joe Della Barba's email I now can see in the attached text file
the actual text of the message.  There is also a pasted graphic htm file
which has the same email string.  

 

As a rule I never open attached files unless am expecting something from
someone I know personally so have not looked at them previously.  Hopefully
this can be rectified.  

 

Brian

 

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things

 

 

Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Mike, 

 

This may not work on your Frers, but we have the checks run to cabintop
winches and in a tack the pit person is the first across to the pit area to
release the check in the tack and loosely pulling on the new check after the
boom has crossed.  Fine tune is done from the rail as the boat settles on
the new tack. The only "rule" is to watch as pulling on the new check as on
occasion the check has caught on things that will loose any battle with a
winch.  It is pretty simple even with just 3 on board while racing, provided
each step is followed in sequence.  

 

Brian

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2021 9:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays

 

This more about my thoughts. With masthead rig backstay tightens forestay
but causes major problems with main. Some like cc33 fix with baby stay and
others with check stay. The check stay fixes a lot of this but adds extra
work and complexities on tacking. Is totally different than running
backstays imo.

We rarely ever run checks although I suspect with great crew they would
really help mainsail trim

Mike
Prrsistence
www.hoytsailing.com   

  _  

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: July 23, 2021 9:54:37 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays 

 

I just finished splicing some dyneema for the running backstays for my
Baltic 47. I assume that's what you are calling check stays. So yes, I think
Dyneema's a much better option than wire. We use the boat mostly for coastal
cruising, occasional ocean racing, and occasional ocean passages. 

Just FYI check stays are the lower running backstays. On a Star, the running
backstays control headstay tension while the checks control mast bend and
are an integral part of sail trim. 

On our boats the runners stop the inner forestay from bending the mast too
much when we are using a staysail and also stop the mast pumping when we are
beating in waves (which is my most common use). We use the backstay for
headstay tension and the runners can stop the backstay from bending the mast
too much.

Andy

Baltic 47 Masquerade

Formerly of C&C 40 Peregrine




Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/


phone  +401 965 5260

 

 

On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 8:45 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Do you actually use these? Our frers 33 has check stays and although they
help with main shape we rarely use them due to added complications tacking
etc

Mike
Peraiatence
Halifax 

  _  

From: cenelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: July 23, 2021 9:26:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Wire vs. Dyneema check stays 

 


I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 yr
old 1995 C&C XL/kcb. 

 

The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to better
match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money.

 

He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire, for the check stays.


 

My concern is uv damage to the dyneema which I understand has been a problem
with using it vs. wire.

 

His response is that the early coatings used to protect dyneema led to short
lifetimes but that the newer coatings have solved that problem.

 

OTOH, my wire check stays are still fine ".after all these years."

 

My question is should I go with dyneema for the checks or stay with new wire
assuming the costs are similar?

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson



Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C ceiling in forepeak

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

This just came up on another sailing list I receive.  Andy at Boatworks put out 
a video on youtube at the end of January showing a method he uses to create 
templates:  

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OKPIvNE-Ss 

 

Have not tried it and it seems pretty straight forward, but Mr. Murphy is 
always nearby when I try any woodworking project.  

 

Good luck.

 

Brian

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C ceiling in forepeak

 

At the risk of having the terminology incorrect, I thought I'd share with the 
list my discovery of how the teak interior hull liner was constructed on my 
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb. 

 

I decided that the only way to find out was to carefully destroy a portion of 
the remaining 'ceiling' that was not rotted away by years of water leaking on 
it.

 

It turns out that this material is teak-veneer on ~1/4" plywood (or its metric 
cousin) with V-grooves cut into it every 1 7/8". According to Rob McLaughlin at 
South Shore Yachts, this materiel was originally likely out-sourced to local 
wood shop(s), none of which are still in business to his knowledge.

 

Since I neither have nor know how to use a router, I am having some pieces made 
locally to match that I will then install on the boat. Fortunately, with the 
grooves, the plywood should be able to 'fit' to the gentle curve of the hull 
both vertically and horizontally. 

 

My biggest challenge will be making a some kind of template from the current 
empty space on the hull that I can use to cut the new routed teak faced plywood 
to fit. This challenge will be reduced somewhat by the strips of ~1/2 x 1/4" 
wood I will need to hold it in place--thereby hiding any cutting errors!

 

In my hands, wood carpentry can always be made to look good with proper 
attention to 'trim' work!

 

Thanks to all who chimed in with suggestions on both what this 'lining' is 
properly referred to nautically as well as those who suggested solutions, 
especially Rod Stright who knows his wooden boats and terminology!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb,

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Post haul / Pre-launch I clean up the blades and gears of any growth and coat 
the gears / pins with “waterproof” grease.  Might guess any grease wears off in 
very short order, but a have a can of the grease so might as well use it.  

 

Brian

 

From: Wade Glew via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 7:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

 

Mine is dry. So far.

Wade Glew 

Oh Boy C&C 33 MKII 

Lake of the Woods

 

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 18:31 Sam Salter via CnC-List, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Flexofold folding 2 blade prop.
Do you lube it or leave it dry?
I’ve been leaving it dry but I’m open to suggestions/experience 🤷🏼‍♂️

sam
C&C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Americas Cup racing

[nausetbeach]

Funny video.  

 

The problem is, that is exactly how the producers at NBC Sports view it.  Let’s 
show the 1st and 2nd legs, then cut to commercial, then come back for the 5th 
and 6th legs of the race – no one really wants to watch this stuff.  Can anyone 
imagine what would happen if they did that to a football game, drop out the 2nd 
and 3rd quarters.  Oh wait, remember when “they” cut away from a playoff game 
to start  the movie “Heidi” on time…  Never did that again.  

 

The technology of the boats is amazing, but agree, is more like NASCAR than 
anything else.  Boring. 

 

Longing for the Fremantle Doctor and 30+ tacks on the final leg with the 12 
meters.  Now that was racing.  

 

Brian

 

From: Donald Kern  
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 1:12 PM
To: Stus-List ; David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Americas Cup racing

 

David, Here is the link to the Irish announcer:  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Iz1de7Lwyw
Don Kern

On 12/20/2020 11:34 AM, David Knecht wrote:

I taped Day 2 of the Prada series a couple of nights ago.  I was able to record 
the broadcast at 1AM.  I think the boats are spectacularly impressive and the 
racing is unbelvievably boring.  Races are won and lost on pure boat speed.  
There is no tactics other than the start and it is unclear if that actually 
matters.  Nothing matters except staying on the foils going fast.  The boats 
are going 35 knots in 15 knots of wind so it all looks the same, upwind and 
downwind.   No spinnakers, no crew running around the deck hoisiting and 
lowering sails, or tacking.  Everyone stays in the same place throughout the 
race.  There is absolutely nothing happening except the boat going through the 
water and nothing that a normal sailor can related to.  It is impossible to 
tell why one boat is ahead and another behind and why they change places at 
times.  Even the graphics for who is ahead are really hard to decipher.  I also 
found the commentary to be unhelpful.  I don’t think the people calling the 
race have any more iidea of what is happeneing than the famous video of the 
Irish announcer calling the Laser race at the Olympics who had never seen a 
sailboat race before thinking the starting sequence was actually the race (if 
you haven’t seen that one- you should.  I can find the link).  I know I am 
being critical and I will probably watch the final America’s cup when it 
happens, but I was really disappointed.  Dave 





On Dec 19, 2020, at 11:11 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> > wrote:

 

Thanks Edd, 

I'll stay up an d check out the Americas Cup race.  I've been watching the 
Vendee Globe coverage daily and the interviews have been great. 

  

Chuck 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sails

[nausetbeach]

Blast from the past…  When did that start – early / mid 2000’s?  

 

Anybody have an update on Wally?  Is Stella Blue still in Mexico?  Last I 
recall was a “soap box derby” type of race somewhere in Baja on whatever people 
could create out of locally sourced flotsam…   

 

His website was a fabulous source of how to write ups / photos of various boat 
projects.  

 

Brian

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2020 10:35 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails

 

He was looking for the "foredeck cow".  (Long time C&C email listers will 
understand.)

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Nov 20, 2020 at 9:24 AM Don Kern mailto:don-k...@cox.net> > wrote:

 Have received photos of the boat racing with suggestions on what I was doing 
wrong (worded as how to improve).  The most notable was a photo with the 
caption: "what is this guy doing standing on the bow?"!

Don Kern
Fireball, C&C35 Mk2

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: For Chuck Schaeffer > Lost List Emails

[nausetbeach]

Not to pile on, but I just received this [below] response Chuck sent to Stu on 
Saturday on Monday afternoon at 3:23 pm.  I had to laugh – 30 minutes vs. 47 
hours…  

 

I seem to be missing most of the emails from the list, with an occasional 
response to an email with 4-5 other previous responses contained in it that I 
never received.  

 

Joe’s email about Zeta from Wednesday Oct 28 at 9:03 am was received on Sunday 
Nov 1 at 3:13 pm.  

 

Am uncertain how some emails from the list can get through but a majority do 
not.  Would have thought if it were any ISP spam filters it would be all or 
nothing.  And certainly not delays like this. 

 

Any thoughts?

 

Brian

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 4:24 PM
To: Stus-List ; Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Re: For Chuck Schaeffer

 

Hi Stu, 

 

Got the email from you but not the C&C list.  It's been 30 minutes. 

 

Chuck 

 

 

On 10/31/2020 3:49 PM Stu mailto:s...@snghost.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Chuck – please let me know if you get this from the list. 

 

Stay safe tonite everyone – Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' > Email Delays ?

[nausetbeach]

Over the past several weeks emails in general [not just this list] seem to be 
getting delayed somewhere in the ether.  Sometimes for a few hours, sometimes 
for a day. 

 

But Ken’s just made a new record: 

 

Sent on Friday Oct 16 at 9 am

 

Rec’d on Monday Oct 19 at 3:37 pm 

 

Are other people experiencing anything close to this?  Had initially thought it 
was due to so many working from home on “residential” systems and not corporate 
networks.   Or is this more my ISP?  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

Oh yeah, Dennis, Touche looks great! 

 

From: Ken Heaton  
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 9:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

 

Looks great Dennis!

 

Ken  H.

 

On Fri, 16 Oct 2020 at 20:34, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Potential "Next" Boat - Keel Issue ?'s

[nausetbeach]

Many thanks to all of you who suggested questions and offered some opinions
on my query.  The boat ticked almost every item on our boat criteria list,
but discovering the crack in the keel really caused us to hit the brakes.
While anything can get repaired, we have decided the potential additional
damage to the hull is too great a risk in a “new” boat and have passed on
this one.  Were it already ours, the repairs would have been already
underway. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: nausetbe...@optonline.net  
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2020 4:48 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Potential "Next" Boat - Keel Issue ?'s

 

I looked at a boat yesterday that seemed like a good contender for a “next”
boat, right up until just prior to leaving I looked more closely at the keel
and found something that does not look particularly good.  I am hoping for
some sage advice from the list, as in a) walk away, or b) might be repaired,
and if so what would be entailed and is it worth it.  This would have to be
on the current owner’s tab, or a very hefty discount in the price.  

 

I tried to attach low res pics but that exceeded the list max message size,
so here is a link I hope works:  

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNHJ22k8kS3ukfBzXz67enViRMDw3GAOASwiS49
uupKViTIDFeNzLj1LE_pav81Yw?key=QkR1X0FXWlgyclBzY1JYcUtIckRJRGh3dzIyMURR

 

The keel has a fairly significant crack extending at least 18” aft from the
leading edge.  [The bottom was recently painted and I did not try to follow
it further aft.]  That gap [in the attached photos] is at least 3/8” on the
horizontal axis and about ¼” on the vertical.  The trailing edge has some
cracks which are not overly visible, again due to the bottom paint.
Unfortunately I did not look closely at / around the keel bolts, nor do I
have any internal photos, as I noticed this after the boat was closed up.
The boat is 4 ½ hours away so getting more photos is not feasible.  

 

To my untrained eye it appears there was a hard grounding and the keel
almost seems to have shifted aft in addition to down, based on the angle of
the line from the fairing of the hull down to the leading edge of the keel.
But there does not appear to be any movement aft at the trailing edge,
though possibly it was punched up.  This does not appear to be along the
sump / keel joint as the crack is angled upwards and is not horizontal.  The
owner claims there have been no hard groundings when asked directly, only a
handful of soft groundings, predominantly in sand, but I have read even that
can do damage.  The boat was recently under contract and surveyed and that
buyer decided against going forward.  The reasons given by the broker did
not include any mention of damage revealed during the survey.  I do not have
a copy of that buyers survey.  

 

Any thoughts on what would need to be done to remedy this, or am I better
off to move on and keep looking?  Should the keel be dropped and the keel
bolts examined?  Or would there be other, less intrusive / expensive fixes
which would be sufficient and safe?  I realize it is difficult to really
determine the best repair without physically examining the boat but any
advice on what likely would be required is appreciated.  

 

Thanks, 

Brian

 

 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Potential "Next" Boat - Keel Issue ?'s

[nausetbeach]

I looked at a boat yesterday that seemed like a good contender for a “next”
boat, right up until just prior to leaving I looked more closely at the keel
and found something that does not look particularly good.  I am hoping for
some sage advice from the list, as in a) walk away, or b) might be repaired,
and if so what would be entailed and is it worth it.  This would have to be
on the current owner’s tab, or a very hefty discount in the price.  

 

I tried to attach low res pics but that exceeded the list max message size,
so here is a link I hope works:  

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNHJ22k8kS3ukfBzXz67enViRMDw3GAOASwiS49
uupKViTIDFeNzLj1LE_pav81Yw?key=QkR1X0FXWlgyclBzY1JYcUtIckRJRGh3dzIyMURR

 

The keel has a fairly significant crack extending at least 18” aft from the
leading edge.  [The bottom was recently painted and I did not try to follow
it further aft.]  That gap [in the attached photos] is at least 3/8” on the
horizontal axis and about ¼” on the vertical.  The trailing edge has some
cracks which are not overly visible, again due to the bottom paint.
Unfortunately I did not look closely at / around the keel bolts, nor do I
have any internal photos, as I noticed this after the boat was closed up.
The boat is 4 ½ hours away so getting more photos is not feasible.  

 

To my untrained eye it appears there was a hard grounding and the keel
almost seems to have shifted aft in addition to down, based on the angle of
the line from the fairing of the hull down to the leading edge of the keel.
But there does not appear to be any movement aft at the trailing edge,
though possibly it was punched up.  This does not appear to be along the
sump / keel joint as the crack is angled upwards and is not horizontal.  The
owner claims there have been no hard groundings when asked directly, only a
handful of soft groundings, predominantly in sand, but I have read even that
can do damage.  The boat was recently under contract and surveyed and that
buyer decided against going forward.  The reasons given by the broker did
not include any mention of damage revealed during the survey.  I do not have
a copy of that buyers survey.  

 

Any thoughts on what would need to be done to remedy this, or am I better
off to move on and keep looking?  Should the keel be dropped and the keel
bolts examined?  Or would there be other, less intrusive / expensive fixes
which would be sufficient and safe?  I realize it is difficult to really
determine the best repair without physically examining the boat but any
advice on what likely would be required is appreciated.  

 

Thanks, 

Brian

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger at home?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

A belated thanks for all the responses.  The Stanley, B&D and West Marine 15 
amp chargers all look to be the same, or nearly the same, units with different 
badging.  I found the B&D charger at HD and have that now charging the 
batteries.   

 

Now if only there were warmer temps could get the bottom prep done and get the 
boat launched.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 1, 2020 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Charger at home?

 

I've got 3 batteries I took home as well.  The Black & Decker 15 amp smart 
charger has worked great.  It does a full charge and then goes to float mode so 
you can keep it hooked up if you want.  Decent price too.

 

Peter Cowenhoven

84 Landfall 35

Portland, CT 

Westbrook, CT (Summer)

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 4:38 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List

<  cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I have this one which I am happy with. STANLEY BC25BS Fully Automatic 25... 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYFSUJW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Does a good job of topping off batteries and then trickling them.  Also doesn’t 
require user to figure out what type of battery it is (AGM, gel or wet).

Nathan


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Re: Stus-List MD Boating

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Joe,

 

Good news.  

 

Could you provide a link where you found that?  Is it on a MD.gov site?  Am in 
CT but we are trying to figure out what parameters may be coming from the 
governor’s office.  MD and CT are in the same group of states coordinating 
their general approach.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2020 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Stus-List MD Boating

 





BOATING 

Effective Thursday, May 7, at 7 a.m., recreational boating activities, 
including motorized and non-motorized vessels and personal watercraft, are 
permitted, however: 

*   Boaters must be with immediate family members or people with which they 
reside.  

*   No more than 10 people can be on a boat at one time, including captain 
and crew. 

*   Boats must be distanced from each other by at least 10 feet and are 
prohibited from rafting up, beaching, or having rendezvous events. 

*   Boats are prohibited from docking at restaurants or bars. 

*   Vessel and boat races remain prohibited. 
*   Marinas can reopen to recreational boaters, but must adhere to Maryland 
Departments of Commerce and Health guidelines 

 . 
*   Pump-out stations and boats may resume operations under the Departments 
of Commerce and Health guidelines. 
*   Local jurisdictions may choose to open public boat ramps, but must 
ensure social distancing guidelines. 
*   All normal boating rules and regulations are in effect and must be 
followed.

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Stus-List Battery Charger at home?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good at home battery charger?  My
charger died earlier this week.  It was a "smart" charger made by Schumacher
but it never seemed to really get the batteries fully charged.  I never
could find out the charging parameters.  Having a charger with an option
which can force an equalization step seems like a necessary capability.  I
have flooded batteries and do not see changing type in the near future.  

 

By way of background, last fall I asked about storing batteries over the
winter - Rob A, Marek, Ken H and others all recommended leaving them on
board, and Ken sent a link to an article on RC's / Marine How To website
about battery storage, which was very helpful.  In that article RC strongly
suggested the batteries should be at full charge and they should be fine
come spring.  I had zero confidence my battery charger [a home / garage
charger, do not have an on board charger or even any AC on board] would be
up to the task so once again I brought the batteries home.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

With all of these clubs shutting down, what are the clubs doing with regard to 
the club employees?  Full pay? Partial Pay? No pay?  And what about benefits, 
if offered?  Healthcare? Retirement / pensions? Etc.  

 

Our club has shut down and is keeping the employees at full pay with all 
benefits for 2 months, if needed.  This will be reviewed as time goes on.  The 
guys in the kitchen will be preparing take out dinners as ordered by the 
membership. Hopefully the summer programs can happen, but that decision will 
have to be made in the not too distant future as will need to notify the summer 
employees, sailing instructors, pool lifeguards, etc.  

 

What are other people / clubs doing?  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matt Wolford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2020 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C&C

 

FYI, I don’t know if Bill Coleman already weighed in, but I believe the Erie 
Yacht Club, which is normally open year-round (with the exception of a one-week 
shut down) is closed until further notice.  Our racing doesn’t start until 
mid-May, and I believe the racing fleet is taking a wait and see approach.

 

 

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 5:48 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers, 

 

I’m curious to know what your local clubs are doing in response to the COVID-19 
pandemic. We have a regatta scheduled for April 4 and we are already discussing 
cancelling the skippers meeting and post-race festivities - perhaps cancelling 
the event altogether. 

 

What are you seeing in your areas? 

 

Hope everyone on the list remains safe. 

All the best, 

 

Edd

 

———-

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”

C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

www.StarshipSailing.com  

———-

914.774.9767   | Mobile

———-

Sent via iPhone 11 Pro

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I seem to recall reading several years ago about using a mild solution of 
oxalic acid to help partially bleach teak to get a more even color.  The teak 
ceilings in the forepeak on my boat are a mess and will require stripping the 
remaining varnish and then attempting to even out the color prior to varnishing 
or using spar polyurethane.  Have heard poly is easier to put on multiple coats 
as it does not need light sanding between coats – the bane of varnishing IMO. 

 

Charlie – please let the list know what you end up doing and how it turns out.  
Being 600+ miles north of you I would guess you will get into this earlier than 
I this spring. 

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2020 5:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

 

My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago. 

 

I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
over the years--most of which are now sealed. 

 

My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are not 
like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on vertical 
surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make sanding them a 
formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be necessary. 

 

Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 

 

Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C XL/kcb

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Was walking through a different boatyard last weekend looking for a friend's
boat and was amazed at the number of boats on the hard with furled genoas
still up, mains on the boom, and one boat even had a sail in a bag on the
bow!  Let alone all the loose halyards banging away in the 25+ kt wind, and
the wind instruments on the tops of mast getting the $%^& beat out of them
in the gusting breeze.  Six months of winter abuse.  Guess they like
replacing gear.  

 

Brian 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2020 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

 

The Owner! 

What kind of clown doesn't take their jib down for winter storage??

We always get a couple blasts of 50 - 60 Kts during the winter  - 

 

Bill Coleman 

Erie PA

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Re: Stus-List Recent Increase in Spam?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Neil, Stu, Ken, John, et al

 

Thanks for the responses.  Did not think an ISP would be a likely source,
but just this morning received a subject line only offer for "Renewal by
Anderson" with a link to who knows where [maybe that Saudi prince will send
me some $ too] from a Gmail  address on a different email account I have
with the same ISP, so that seems a likely culprit.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of schiller via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 8:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recent Increase in Spam?

 

Brian,

More likely that optonline.net has been hacked.  My ISP was hacked twice in
the 15 years that we have been with them (an extremely rural provider).  The
ISP did all the right things of changing passwords and installing spam
filters etc., but I still get a lot of activity into the spam filter.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 12/20/2019 8:09 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List wrote:

In the past week I have been getting 4-5 spam emails every day on this
address, never had any before.  I use this address only for this list and
one other sailing list, so in theory it should not really be "out there"
other than the few posts and rare emails directly to list members.  

 

Has anybody noticed an increase in spam?  Does this mean this list [or the
other list] or someone on it has been "hacked?"  Is it possible some entity
has joined either list for nefarious purposes?  

 

The "Junk" email filters are not picking these up. 

 

Thanks, 

Brian





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PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 

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Stus-List Recent Increase in Spam?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

In the past week I have been getting 4-5 spam emails every day on this
address, never had any before.  I use this address only for this list and
one other sailing list, so in theory it should not really be "out there"
other than the few posts and rare emails directly to list members.  

 

Has anybody noticed an increase in spam?  Does this mean this list [or the
other list] or someone on it has been "hacked?"  Is it possible some entity
has joined either list for nefarious purposes?  

 

The "Junk" email filters are not picking these up. 

 

Thanks, 

Brian

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Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

The “frac” line still helps stabilize the tip of the mast even if the boat has 
a stiff mast section, as once around the weather mark the backstay adjuster 
should be eased, which in turn may allow the mast tip to bounce around.  
Especially important to eliminate that bounce in light air and chop as that 
movement reduces any attachment of air flow on the spin.  

 

And, as Dennis just described, it allows the bow to set up the genoa for a 
quick hoist at the leeward mark.  Seconds matter in any competitive fleet…  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2019 3:22 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

 

Yep.  Probably more for show than increased performance.

 

Mine is a 3-4 foot length of line with an eye on one end and a snap shackle on 
the other.  Once the chute is set, the headsail should be immediately pre-fed 
and fed ready for hoisting at the leeward mark.  The eye of the defraculator is 
attached to the stemplate or headsail tack hook and the snap shackle is clipped 
to the head of the headsail.  The headsail halyard is tensioned pulling the 
masthead forward.  At the leeward mark, the bow person blows the defraculator 
snap shackle and the headsail is hoisted.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 10:39 AM Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Pulls the top of the mast forward when going downwind with the kite up. Bit 
surprised it does anything with a sturdy mast like the one on a 35-1. 

 

Jeff

 

On Thu., Dec. 19, 2019, 11:27 a.m. Randy Stafford via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hey Dennis - what’s a defraculator?  :)

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

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Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

For those who have relatively recently switched insurance [particularly from 
BoatUS / Geico] to another, were you required to get a new / recent survey as 
part of the process?  Assuming the new policy is Agreed Value, how was that 
value set?  

 

It seems many have switched to Berkeley Rec Marine.  Does anyone have actual 
claims experience with Berkeley? 

It does not appear from their website that Berkeley Marine requires a survey. 

 

I had a claim through Boat US back when it was CNA and the process was as 
straight forward as one could wish, no issues whatsoever.  Even while repairs 
were underway additional damage was discovered  - an estimate for the 
additional damage was sent in and a check was on its way.   

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Risch via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 3:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated

 

As am I.

 

I too danced on their heads about this substantial change to coverage WITHOUT 
notice.   

 

Berkeley ticked my boxes…replacement and riders available for offshore passages 
to Bermuda.  

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated

 

Unfortunately the changes and problems started when Boat U.S. in 2007, and was 
exacerbated when coverage was transferred to GEICO (as opposed to CNA which 
used to issue the policies).  

 

I made a VERY STRONG argument to them about a 18 months ago when I found out 
they had not pointed out the depreciation provision during the quoting process.

 

This is clearly a violation of insurance ethics, as they have a DUTY to point 
out the shortcomings in their policy.

 

If I got screwed by their depreciation rules, I would pursue an Errors and 
Omissions / Bad Faith claim against them.

 

Yes, I am in the industry, 

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Mike,

Your logic is perfect - the rules here, not so much.  Can only guess most of 
the legislators had no real idea what they voted on, and the practical 
application thereof.  Boatyards had to install these pads / runoff capturing 
filtering systems to be in compliance with state regulation, not a trivial 
capital expenditure.  

Am surprised at the lack of similar regulations in our neighbor to the north.  
Heard a while back some west coast states / localities were even banning in 
water bottom cleaning as that created too much pollution...  

Brian

[message trimmed per Stu's request]

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 9:26 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

Hi Brian

We do not have those same restrictions at this time.  I would think that 
ablative paint would likely also come under scrutiny.  Since by its nature it 
comes off while sailing in the very same waters where the runoff from wet 
sanding would end up.

For bottom stripping we do have a policy about capturing just not for wet 
sanding.

Note that our club routinely pressure washes the hulls of the boats as they are 
hauled.  This has the same effect as a light wet sand in that a lot of ablative 
paint comes off at the time.

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of nausetbeach--- via 
CnC-List
Sent: October 25, 2019 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

Mike,

What do you do about the wet sanding run off?  

In the US [at least in my state] ANY paint whether dry or wet sanded, must be 
captured and "disposed of properly."  The pressure washing at haulout is 
suppose to be done on a pad which collects and filters the run off.  Wet 
sanding in the boat yard at large is not allowed and the yard manager will blow 
a fuse or two if he finds anyone who has done so, as he is liable to the state 
environmental agency for any run off into the local waterways.   If it came to 
any enforcement fines, presumably the boat owner would also be on the hook...  

I switched from a hard, racing paint VC Offshore to an ablative paint because 
wet sanding was no longer allowed.  Having the boat moved back onto the pad for 
wet sanding is not practical.  I use a random orbital with vacuum pickup [as 
recommended by Greg Cutter way back when] to dry sand the bottom prior to 
applying new paint.  

Brian


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Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Mike,

What do you do about the wet sanding run off?  

In the US [at least in my state] ANY paint whether dry or wet sanded, must be 
captured and "disposed of properly."  The pressure washing at haulout is 
suppose to be done on a pad which collects and filters the run off.  Wet 
sanding in the boat yard at large is not allowed and the yard manager will blow 
a fuse or two if he finds anyone who has done so, as he is liable to the state 
environmental agency for any run off into the local waterways.   If it came to 
any enforcement fines, presumably the boat owner would also be on the hook...  

I switched from a hard, racing paint VC Offshore to an ablative paint because 
wet sanding was no longer allowed.  Having the boat moved back onto the pad for 
wet sanding is not practical.  I use a random orbital with vacuum pickup [as 
recommended by Greg Cutter way back when] to dry sand the bottom prior to 
applying new paint.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 8:50 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

Hi Randy

Pressure wash and light scrub with a stiff bristled long handled scrub brush.  
I tend to also do a light wet sand using a painters sanding pole 
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/plastic-pole-sander-0578532p.html#srp and 80 
grit "screen".

I like doing this work in the Fall rather than spring because on the Atlantic 
Coast of Canada our Fall days are MUCH warmer than our spring days.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: October 24, 2019 5:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Cleaning

Listers-

For those of you who haul your boats for the winter (like I do), what’s your 
preferred way to clean the bottom after hauling out - especially if you have 
VC-17?

I’ve pressure-washed mine in years past, and plan to again this weekend.  But 
I’ve seen my slip neighbor’s results with Slimy Grimy and it’s impressive 
(power boat though; gelcoat bottom).

What do y’all do?

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Notice

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

The official USCG VDC “Application for Renewal” form is a single page in black 
ink that looks like a true “government” form, with the OMB No. “Return to VDC 
in Falling Waters, WV” etc. on it 

 

The renewal “letter” I received a few years ago was more like a real letter / 
notice with color ink, not a “government form.”   After a double take and 
recalling the prior posts on this list It was appropriately “filed”  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 9, 2019 9:30 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Notice

 

They time it to arrive a few weeks before the official notice from the USCG 
VDC.  Sneaky.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Oct 9, 2019 at 7:49 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers:

 

FYI, I just received a notice from the “Vessel Documentation Portal” 
concerning my expiring certificate.  This bogus letter looks a little different 
than the last few bogus letters.  It’s either a different service or they 
changed the look of the letter.  In any event, it appears to be the same scam.  
Be warned.

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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Marek and Ken,

 

Thanks for the information.  The winters get cold enough so will give it a try 
this year.  Will disconnect them and leave them in place.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Ken Heaton  
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2019 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

 

I'm not sure where you are located. How cold are your winters

The colder the winter the less often you need to recharge the batteries over 
winter (this is assuming you do no ever use the batteries when they are cold). 
This also assumes you start the storage period with the batteries fully 
charged.  If you have cold winters, or even coolish winters there is no good 
reason to take the batteries out of the boat.

Self discharge slows as the temperature drops.

Does that help?

Ken H.

On Monday, 23 September 2019, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
> Rob,
>
>  
>
> What is your winter procedure to get such long life?  I have been removing my 
> 3 flooded batteries and storing them in my garage, giving them a monthly 
> charge “top up.”  Would much rather not carry them down and then back up the 
> ladder comes spring.  My boat is 1 hour away in the winter so do not get 
> there that often to give them a regular charge. 
>
>  
>
> Do you charge them on regular visits to the boat?  Do you disconnect them and 
> let them sit, with very slow self discharge during the colder months? 
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2019 8:47 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> Cc: Robert Abbott mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca> 
> >
> Subject: Stus-List Flooded Batteries
>
>  
>
> I have two Group 27's Great Northern deep cycle batteries that have just seen 
> their 11th season of use.leave them on the boat over the winter.
>
> Time to get new ones but they just keep on going.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32, #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 9/22/2019 10:28 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anyone still use flooded batteries.  Looking to replace 3 weak batteries that 
> are causing engine startng issues.
>
>  
>
> Are the AGM or Gel batteries worth the $$ s.
>
>  
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>  
>
> Peter Cowenhoven
>
> Branford CT
>
> Landfall 35
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>
> ___
>
>  
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>  
>
>   

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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Rob,

 

What is your winter procedure to get such long life?  I have been removing my 3 
flooded batteries and storing them in my garage, giving them a monthly charge 
“top up.”  Would much rather not carry them down and then back up the ladder 
comes spring.  My boat is 1 hour away in the winter so do not get there that 
often to give them a regular charge.  

 

Do you charge them on regular visits to the boat?  Do you disconnect them and 
let them sit, with very slow self discharge during the colder months?  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2019 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

 

I have two Group 27's Great Northern deep cycle batteries that have just seen 
their 11th season of use.leave them on the boat over the winter.

Time to get new ones but they just keep on going.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32, #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 9/22/2019 10:28 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List wrote:

Anyone still use flooded batteries.  Looking to replace 3 weak batteries that 
are causing engine startng issues. 

 

Are the AGM or Gel batteries worth the $$ s.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Peter Cowenhoven

Branford CT

Landfall 35

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 





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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Branford Landing (203-483-6544) up the Branford River is a small, basic  but 
friendly yard that allows owners to do their own work.  No real amenities 
though there is a restaurant in the yard and a brewery / pub next door.  Chris 
Anderson [owner / manager] is great to work with the few times I have needed 
some extra help, and for scheduling hauling / launching timing.  

If you want the full list of amenities, Bruce and Johnson [part of Brewers and 
now Safe Harbor] is closer to the mouth of the Branford River and has it all, 
and one might guess the pricing to go along with it.  Very friendly and 
attentive staff.  Do not know how much they allow owners to work on their 
boats.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of JP Mail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail 
Subject: Stus-List Winter storage CT

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Motorsailing

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I recently read an article about diesel engines reaffirming that diesels do not 
like to be operated without a load on them, that idling for extended periods 
can cause glazing of the cylinder walls, leading to reduced compression and all 
sorts of other less good things.  

 

This article pointed out that motor sailing can frequently create less load on 
the engine than would exist if the boat were just motoring as the wind pushes 
on the sail(s) and the boat accelerates.  Depending on the conditions this 
could, over time, lead to glazing on the cylinder walls.  The author 
recommended to run the engine “hard” under full load [ie. not motor sailing] 
for at least 30 minutes at the end of a motor sailing trip to help reduce / 
eliminate any potential glazing that may have accumulated.  Seemed a reasonable 
preventative action one could take.  

 

Did a 6 hour delivery motor sailing this spring in a quite variable northerly.  
During the gusts was sailing considerably faster than the motoring speed and 
could hear / feel the prop “un-load” and occasionally did get some of the 
vibration Dave mentioned. Have a Flex o Fold geared 2 blade prop which probably 
started to partially close as the boat accelerated.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 11:50 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Motorsailing

 

Thanks Andy- I had not thought of that specific issue. In fact, I have a 
Maxprop so that would fit your explanation.  Dave

 





On Jul 31, 2019, at 11:00 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I think you are on the right track with your diagnosis. I’ve found that with a 
feathering prop if you start sailing faster than the prop is driving the boat 
you can get a vibration. I assume this is because the prop partly feathers.

 

Andy

Andrew Burton

139 Tuckerman Ave

Middletown, RI 

USA02842

 

www.burtonsailing.com  

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jul 31, 2019, at 10:05, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Motor sailing as you described should not present any issues.

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 9:37 AM

To: CnC CnC discussion list   

Cc: David Knecht   

Subject: Stus-List Motorsailing

 

We just got back from a long cruise (long for us- 5 days) where the wind tended 
to be against us every day.  We ended up motor sailing some of the time fairly 
close hauled with winds varying 5-10 knots.We were pressed for time and 
wanted to keep our speed up and direction to our destination so that ended up 
with some pinched sailing a bit too close to the wind, but better than either 
motor alone or sail alone.  Periodically, (especially as the wind increased) 
the engine/hull would start intensly vibrating and if I adjusted engine rpm, I 
could usually get it to stop.  I am presuming that I was getting resonances in 
the engine/prop due to the sails and prop trying to drive the boat 
simultaneously and not always in sync.  Obviously strong vibrations are not a 
good thing, but my question is whether motorsailing like this is a bad idea 
altogether due strain on transmission/engine.  Thanks- Dave 

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT


 

 

 


  _  


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

University of Connecticut 

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269-3125

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.  That certainly looks like it would work in the “Classic” thru 
hull.  Did not think Garmin was “supporting” any of the Nexus equipment via 
replacement parts any more.  Seem to recall Nexus stopped using the 43 mm (?) 
and started using a larger size (78 mm??) a decade or so ago.  

 

I replaced this current transducer ~ 15 years ago and did put some heat shrink 
on the cable per your recommendation back then.  That end has held up well – 
it’s just the paddlewheel that is giving me issues…

 

Many thanks!

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

 

Hodges Marine has the Garmin GST 43 mm transducer for $122. The number on my 
spare is 010-04283-00. 

 

If you replace it, be sure and add stress relief to the cable where it exits 
the transducer. Slide a couple 2” pieces of heat shrink down the cable, shrink 
them then pour epoxy in the top of the transducer around the cable. 

 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 2:42 PM, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Brian,

 

First, replacements are readily available. Look for the 43 mm transducer. If 
you can’t find one, contact me and I’ll find you one. 

 

Second, I leave mine out unless I’m sailing. 

 

Third, I spray mine with Corrosion Block. Probably doesn’t stay on long but it 
makes me feel like I did something. Any lightweight oil should work.

 

Dennis C. 

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 1:18 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This year the boat speed paddlewheel on my Nexus Classic system seems to be 
binding.  I get 0 boat speed when motoring at 3-4 kts and it finally starts to 
read when the boat accelerates to 5-6 kts, but it shows the boat speed ~ 4 kts. 
 I pulled the paddlewheel and left it sitting in a cup of fresh water for 
several days to loosen any shrimp and other potential aquatic growth and then 
used a tooth bush on it to clean it. I can spin the paddlewheel by flicking my 
finger on it but still slows then stops much more quickly than it used to.  

 

I cannot see anything that might be binding the paddlewheel.  Any suggestions?  
Soak it in dilute white vinegar?  Spray McLube on it?  The unit / system is 
long time discontinued so  getting a replacement is not possible.  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

This year the boat speed paddlewheel on my Nexus Classic system seems to be
binding.  I get 0 boat speed when motoring at 3-4 kts and it finally starts
to read when the boat accelerates to 5-6 kts, but it shows the boat speed ~
4 kts.  I pulled the paddlewheel and left it sitting in a cup of fresh water
for several days to loosen any shrimp and other potential aquatic growth and
then used a tooth bush on it to clean it. I can spin the paddlewheel by
flicking my finger on it but still slows then stops much more quickly than
it used to.  

 

I cannot see anything that might be binding the paddlewheel.  Any
suggestions?  Soak it in dilute white vinegar?  Spray McLube on it?  The
unit / system is long time discontinued so  getting a replacement is not
possible.  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

WV Senator Robert Byrd was known as "The King" of the earmark.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 5:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again

 

For the record, the USCG Documentation Center is in West Virginia.  Go
figure...

 

Neil

1982 C&C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 5:11 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again 

 

Well, it's that time of year.  I got my annual notice from "Maritime
Documentation Center", Billings, Montana. 

 

For any owners new to this list, this notice always brings a chuckle to many
of us.  Maritime Documentation Center is NOT the USCG Vessel Documentation
Center (VDC).  It is a private third party entity who will file your renewal
for you for what many of us consider an exorbitant fee.

 

They are always consistent about sending their notice out quite a bit BEFORE
the USCG sends you the official renewal notice.  Simply wait until you
receive the official notice from the USCG VDC and then go online and renew
for $26.  You'll save a few $$$ that you can spend on a new boat toy.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Yes.  Although I lubed the inside of the collar prior to pouring in the
Spartite, I was so focused on getting the mast in the right position [used
multiple lines led to snatch blocks and to winches to position the mast] I
did not notice a small flange on the inside of the collar.  When the yard
tried to pull the mast several years later, there were starting to lift the
boat out of the water.  They stopped and called me.  I had to unbolt the
collar from the boat, and then the mast could be pulled.  Took a couple of
days to get the collar off the mast.  Then used a Dremel to grind down that
small flange.  The mast has been pulled 2 times since without issue.  Is
pretty amazing that little flange was sufficient to hold most of the weight
of the boat. 

 

Spartite is a great product, but is pretty much a one and done deal.
Measure many times and pour once. 

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rod Stright via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2019 5:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

Anyone have any problem with the Spartite  stick against the mast collar
when hauling the mast out?

 

Rod Stright

Halifax

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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

+1 on Josh’s comment:  That chain plate and those bolts looks pretty suspicious 
on their own.  

 

I pulled my ~ 30 year old port shroud chain plates in August, 2015 and on the 
surface looked a bit better [less apparent rust] than yours, but the sides of 
the plates that were against the bulkhead were very rusted and pitted 
[stainless and lack of oxygen never a good thing] and several of the bolts 
holes had cracks in the steel radiating out to the edge of the stainless plate. 
 These cracks were not visible to the eye on the exposed surface.  All of the 
bolts were quite rusted, two sheared off as I removed them.  

 

Was not expecting to need to replace them but was not worth risking the rig 
over $500 to have new chain plates fabricated and a handful of new SS bolts.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2019 9:33 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

 

I'd use 1/2" G10 FRP.  Tabbing from the back/bow side might be a trick.  I'd 
cut the exposed tab, remove rot, grind to clean fiberglass.  Generously goop 
thickened epoxy onto the remaining tabs and clamp your pre-fabbed G10 into 
place.  Then filet and tab on the exposed side.

 

Be sure to inspect thoroughly for cracking in the SS fasteners and chain 
plates... Or simply replace.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List Some Sunday morning reading. Rogue Wave, the whole story.

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Researchers from the Universities of Oxford and Edinburgh in the UK have just 
recently recreated a “rogue wave” in a tank at the University of Edinburgh for 
the first time under laboratory conditions.  

 

Interesting article and video.  

 

http://www.ox.ac.uk/news/2019-01-23-famous-freak-wave-recreated-lab-mirrors-hokusai’s-‘great-wave’#
 



 

Links to their paper and the video at the bottom of the page.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2019 7:04 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List Some Sunday morning reading. Rogue Wave, the whole story.

 

Good morning.  Grab a coffee (or two), sit back, relax, and read a little about 
the storied C&C's of the past.

 

Many of you have likely seen the much abridged version of this story on Stu's 
C&C Photo album.  This is the full, six-page eyewitness story, from Sail 
Magazine, published back in August of 1976.  There are some sections of this 
that are hard to read, this wasn't a pleasure trip once the Rogue Wave came 
through.

 

This week's installment: 
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/roguewave-by-aulan-fitzpatrick-360.html

RogueWave by Aulan Fitzpatrick

360-degree roll sweeps

Sorcery clean

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

  
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html

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