Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] FS: K4OAH Drake 2-B/2-BQ and 2-C/2-NT CDs

2014-11-11 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Sold

-- 
Darrell Bellerive  VE7IU
Darrell Bellerive  VE7IUOn Tuesday, November 11, 2014 09:09:35 AM  
ve...@runbox.com [DrakeRadio] wrote:


  
Darrell Bellerive  VE7IUFor Sale:

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[Drakelist] 2-B 160 Meter Conversion Kit?

2014-11-11 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I just found a bag of parts in my 2-B parts collection with a 5.5 MHz crystal, 
two variable capacitors, and a disc ceramic. 

I wonder if this was a parts kit for the A band conversion to 160 Meters for 
the Drake 2-B.

The parts do not match up with what is in the official drake mod, but wonder if 
maybe someone had an alternative design and offered a parts kit.

Anyone have any ideas?

73,
Darrell
VE7IU


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[Drakelist] FS: K4OAH Drake 2-B/2-BQ and 2-C/2-NT CDs

2014-11-11 Thread Darrell Bellerive
For Sale:

Two of Garey Barrell's (K4OAH) Service CD's:

Drake 2-B/2-BQ Service Information ver 1.02
Drake 2-C/2-NT Service Information ver 1.03

$40 for both including postage to Canada and the lower 48 US States.

Payment via PayPal only.

These are awesome and essential for anyone working on these Drake radios. 
However, I am selling all of my vintage gear and no longer have a need for 
these CDs.

Please respond off list.

73,
Darrell
VE7IU



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[Drakelist] FS: Drake Novice Station

2014-10-16 Thread Darrell Bellerive
For Sale: Drake 2-C with 2-AC, 2-CQ, 2-NT Novice Station plus 2 crystals and 
K4OAH Service CD.

In good working and cosmetic condition. $800 US Funds including shipping to the 
lower 48 states and Canada.

Drake 2-NT Transmitter:
Hayseed Hamfest capacitor kit installed. This replaced the can capacitor and 
three discreet electrolytics.
Power supply diodes D4 to D9 replaced with 1N4007 diodes.
All controls work smoothly.
Full power output is between 55 and 80 watts depending on band according to my 
Hy-Gain wattmeter. With the transmitter adjusted for the 75 watt input level, 
the output is between 40 and 55 watts.
I recently moved and do not have an antenna installed, so the transmitter was 
not tested on the air, but I  suspect it will sound good. While listening on a 
general coverage receiver while transmitting into a dummy load, I did not hear 
any hum, clicks, or chirps.
The only deficiency is two missing cabinet screws.
The front panel is very good without scratches.
The cabinet is good without scratches but has a few blemishes.

Drake 2-C Receiver:
The receiver has the optional 2-AC crystal calibrator but does NOT have the 
optional 2-NB noise blanker.
Hayseed Hamfest capacitor kit installed. This replaced the can capacitor and 
six discreet electrolytics.
Power supply diodes D1 to D5 replaced with 1N4007 diodes.
All controls work smoothly.
All tubes tested good in a tube tester. I also tested the tubes by swapped out 
all tubes with spares except for the 12BA6 to ensure that the tubes are working 
well.
The 405/505 kHz oscillator was realigned to put it back on frequency. It was 
off frequency and as a result the 2-CQ was not able to tune properly. It is 
back in spec and the 2-CQ is working as it should. The 455 kHz IF was also 
aligned. The bias and S-meter alignment was also done. The frequency dial was 
moved back to it's normal position. All other alignments were not done as the 
receiver was working well.
With a 15 foot wire strung across the room for an antenna, a 40 meter net was 
received very well. The receiver sounds very nice. Despite a lot of powerline 
and computer noise, I was able to copy almost all of the stations on the net. 
It worked better than my Heathkit SW-7800.
The S-meter is a bit stingy. A 50uV signal on 7040 kHz from an Elecraft XG-1 
only measured S-6 instead of S-9. The crystal calibrator signal varies from S9 
to S2 from 80 to 10 meters. The receiver appears to be very sensitive as the 
1uV signal from the  Elecraft XG-1 was clearly audible. I don't think there is 
any problem with the gain or sensitivity, but perhaps the s-meter circuitry is 
not working as well as it should. I decided not to investigate it any further 
as the receiver seems to work very well. An MFJ-259 as a signal generator 
loosely coupled to the antenna jack results in strong s-meter readings on all 
bands.
The front panel is good with one scratch and a few marks. It is a bit yellow 
compared to the transmitter front panel. It could be due to sunlight or 
cigarette smoke, but I do not smell any cigarette smoke.
The cabinet is good with no scratches.

Drake C-CQ Q-Multiplier:
The Q-Multiplier works well in both peak and notch modes. I notice no 
difference between this unit and my 2-BQ.
All controls work smoothly.
The front panel has a few scratches and the knobs are not original.
The cabinet is in good shape with a few scratches.

Also included are crystals for 3730 and 7006 kHz, the  K4OAH Service CD, and a 
CD with some other files I have downloaded about this equipment.

I originally purchased this novice station for my vintage radio collection, but 
have recently moved and decided to sell all my vintage gear.

Lots of photos and a couple of videos are available. Payment by PayPal only. 
The equipment will be well packed and shipped in three boxes.

Please email me direct for more information or photos.

73,
Darrell
VE7IU
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[Drakelist] WTB: 40 Meter Crystal for 2-NT

2013-01-19 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I am looking for a 40 meter crystal to test a 2-NT transmitter. Anywhere 
between 7.002 and 7.083 MHz.


73, Darrell VA7TO

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[Drakelist] Wanted 2-B Band Crystals

2013-01-12 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I am looking for the following band crystals for my Drake 2-B. I want to 
expand coverage to all amateur bands from 160 meters through 10 meters. 
I already have the 160 meter conversion for the "A" band. I am hoping to 
find used crystals rather than have new ones built, but have the feeling 
these will be scarce on the used market. Here's to hoping though...


9.0 MHz for 60 meter band on switch position B
14.0 MHz for 30 meter band on switch position C
14.5 MHz for 17 meter band on switch position D

Third overtone type:
21.0 MHz for 12 meter band on switch position E
24.5 MHz for 10 meter band on switch position 10-1
25.6 MHz for 10 meter band on switch position 10-3

Please contact me off list.

73, Darrell VA7TO




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Re: [Drakelist] 2B Receiver Preselector Knob

2013-01-12 Thread Darrell Bellerive

Hi Mark,

I think that these are pretty scarce. I've been looking for a while too. 
I have had some success with crazy glue and then being careful 
tightening the setscrew.


Yes, the Preselector knobs on the 2-B and 2-C are the same. At least on 
the receivers I have. That knob style seems to be used on the 
preselectors of the receivers and the tuning control of the q-multipliers.


Not sure of the 2-A, the photos look like they may be the same as well.

The 2-C and 2-NT other knobs are very similar to the preselector knobs 
on the 2-B and 2-C, the only difference I see is the silver indicator 
mark. I need one of these too.


73, Darrell VA7TO

Darrell Bellerive

On 13-01-04 05:25 PM, Mark wrote:

Hi,

Does anyone have a 2B Preselector knob for sale, or know where I can get
one?   While mine is still working, it has a crack in it.  If not, does
anyone know who supplied them to Drake?

Finally, it looks as it the 2C used the same knob.   Is that true?

Thanks and 73,

Mark NO8J



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Re: [Drakelist] Sidetones (was Ten-Tec and Drake Compared)

2011-06-17 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I notice that most vintage receivers provide a mute, at least the ones
I've seen, yet it's use doesn't seem to be that popular. Was this just
because the transmitters lacked sidetone or was there other reasons such
as timing or poor recovery?

73,
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

On 06/17/11 14:48, leecra...@aol.com wrote:
> Darrell,
>  
> I agree with you 100% on the lack of sidetone, etc. on vintage
> equipment.  When I completed my "ultimate boatanchor CW transmitter"
> last year, I included sidetone, pumped through the matching homebrew
> receiver's audio and well as the muting you mentioned.
>  
> 73
> Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

2011-06-17 Thread Darrell Bellerive
I notice the use of sidetones, and receiver muting does not seem to be
commonly used in separate operation on the same frequency. Obviously
sidetone would be needed when operating on different transmit and
receive frequencies.

I have often wondered about the lack of sidetone circuits in vintage
transmitters. I have always had transcievers and sidetone, so it all
just seems odd to me. :-)

73,
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

On 06/17/11 10:18, Paul Christensen wrote:
> The beauty of this system is that the PIN diode switch allows just
> enough Tx to Rx leakage for one to get about a 10 dB over S9 signal on
> the receiver while transmitting in CW.  So, you're listing to your own
> signal in real time and switching is so fast that your own signal is
> heard as just another signal on the band.  The Tx and Rx VFOs are
> free-running and do not have the handicap of needing to switch by the
> amount of the CW offset between T/R excursions.
> 
> Paul, W9AC

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[Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?

2011-06-17 Thread Darrell Bellerive
The threads about the comparisons of the Drake, Collins, etc. has got me
thinking about my first receiver and station.

Licenced at the age of 15 back in 1975, I bought used gear from the
local club members, not giving any thought as to what was great, good,
or bad in terms of design or performance. It was available and so that's
what I got.

If I knew then, what I know now, my first receiver and station would
have been totally different. If I could have afforded it a new Drake
R-4B or if money was not available, a used Drake 2B would have been my
first receiver rather than the Hallicrafters SX-140.

So if you knew then what you know now, what would have been your first
station and what year would it have been?

73,
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

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Re: [Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

2011-06-17 Thread Darrell Bellerive
My only Ten-Tec rig was an Argo 509. I was very impressed with the
receiver, except for the AGC pops. I sold it years ago, so a side by
side comparison with my Drake 2B is not possible. If my memory is
correct, I would give the edge to the 2B. I really like my 2B. Someday
perhaps I can collect a Triton IV, Corsair, R-4B, TR-7, and compare them
all side by side. I doubt I will ever spend the money on a Collins, but

My impression of the early Ten-Tec's were that they tried to keep the
price down more than Drake and much more than Collins. Cheaper cases,
knobs, etc. The PTO rebuild frequency of the Ten-Tec may also stem from
this as well.

Ten-Tec definitely catered to the QSK CW crowd. I know that the Drake
4-line could be made to work QSK with an external T/R switch. Has anyone
on list done this and can comment on the QSK performance? Escpecially
how it compares to Ten-Tec's QSK.

73,
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

On 06/16/11 22:14, geoffrey mendelson wrote:
> 
> On Jun 17, 2011, at 7:51 AM, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> 
>> In the 70's Ten-Tec had the Tritons, and early Omni's, with the Corsairs
>> in the early 80's.
> 
> 
> Before the Corsairs, with the Tritons, Argos, early OMNIs and Century
> (21,22, 22 digital display) rigs Ten-Tec went for simplicity of design
> and good sound.
> 
> Compared to the design of the Colins (sophistocated and no expense
> spared), the Drake (near genius), the Ten-Tec rigs look like they were
> designed by copying pages from Doug DeMaw's books.
> 
> I am NOT saying that the Ten-Tec rigs are poor performers, far from it.
> For casual rag chewing, I'd put my Argo 509 or Trition IV Digital
> (display, not oscillator) against any modern rig.
> 
> In the Drake rigs I've seen every part is carefully placed, every wire
> carefully run, every joint carefully soldered. My SPR-4 manual warns
> against changing the length or route of wires as it may affect performance.
> 
> I don't know if it would affect the Ten-Tec rigs in the same way, but it
> does not seem so. The designs seem to be simple circuits. The Century
> rigs have direct coversion receivers.
> 
> Geoff.

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Re: [Drakelist] Collins, Drake etc.

2011-06-17 Thread Darrell Bellerive
My first receiver was a used Hallicrafters SX-140. I did not have a
manual with it, and it was many, many years after I sold it that I
realized it had a regenerative detector.

My recollections of it were of very poor selectivity. Perhaps this is
just due to my not knowing how to adjust the regenerative knob properly.
It was labeled Selectivity/BFO so I always figured straight up for CW, a
bit left for LSB and a bit to the right for USB. Funny thinking about it
know, but I was 15 years old and studying for my licence at the time.
Once I got my licence I upgraded to an Heathkit SB-101.

A couple of times now I have almost bought another SX-140 just to try it
out with the proper use of that selectivity/BFO control and see if it
really was as bad as I remember or if it was just me.

73,
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

On 06/17/11 07:33, kc9...@aol.com wrote:
> Interesting conversation!
> 3) Halli's...just fun to use and performance is really goos as
> well...better than most may think/remember
> 73,
> Lee, KC9CDT

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[Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

2011-06-16 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Wow, what a great thread on Collins vs. Drake. I've never had the
privilege of using any Collins gear, so this has been very enlightening.
Thanks all for keeping this so objective.

It seems Ten-Tec came along much later in the game than Drake or
Collins, but also has a high regard from their owners. With the head
start that Drake and Collins had, perhaps it is not as fair a comparison.

In the 70's Ten-Tec had the Tritons, and early Omni's, with the Corsairs
in the early 80's.

So, how about a comparison of the Drake 4 and 7 lines with the above
mentioned Ten-Tec rigs?

73,
Darrell
VA7TO

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Amateur Radio Station VA7TO

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[Drakelist] 2B vs. Hammarlund?

2009-12-07 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Anyone own both a Drake 2B and an Hammarlund HQ-145 and can describe how 
the two compare.


While obviously made with different purposes in mind, I am curious as to 
how the two compare at receiving signals.


The 2B really impresses me on CW, but I find the bandwidth a bit narrow 
for AM. I suspect the Hammerlund would be much better for AM, but wonder 
how it does on CW. Is it as stable or as selective.


I do have the 2BQ Q-Multiplier and find it is wonderful for CW.

--
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Station VA7TO
Grand Forks BC Canada

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[Drakelist] WTB: 2B Preselector Knob

2009-02-21 Thread Darrell Bellerive
The cracked preselector knob on my 2B finally broke. Anyone have one they want 
to sell or know of a source for one?
-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?

2008-07-26 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I received a personal email from Bill Frost, the Service Manager for Drake for 
the last 40+ years. He offered this information, reprinted here with his kind 
permission, with regards to lubricating the Drake 2-B receiver:

"In regard to lubrication, we (Drake Service Department) always used a drop or 
two of 3 in one oil on the bandshaft detent, and a drop on the main tuning 
shaft bushing.  Using a small bladed screwdriver, put a drop of oil on the 
end of the screwdriver blade and then you can reach those hard to get at 
spots, once you touch the area, the oil will transfer to the desired spot.  
Caution: Do NOT allow any oil to get on the dial cord or that section of the 
main tuning shaft.  Also a drop on each end of the preselector variable and 
the tuning variable.  If you use Deoxit or ?? on the variable controls, use 
it very sparingly.

Just remember if it ain't broke don't fix it."

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?

2008-07-25 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
There have been some interesting responses to my question about lubrication. 
Thanks to all who have replied.

Here's what I've learned so far.

1) Be cautious about lubricating plastic or nylon parts as petroleum based 
lubricants can damage the plastic or nylon. Some forms of Nylon are self 
lubricating and do not need lubricant.

2) Don't mix lubricants unless you know they are compatible. If you can't 
remove all the old lubricant, use what was already there. And not all white 
lithium greases have the same base. Some use a petroleum base, while others 
use a silicone base.

3) Choose a lubricant that corresponds to the load. For example, grease for 
automobile wheel bearings is not suitable for use in capacitor ball bearings 
as it is too coarse.

So this has got me rethinking the lube job.

I see no evidence of any previous lube on the two plastic or nylon wheels in 
the dial pointer mechanism. I'm not sure what the wheels are actually made 
of. So probably best not to lube them.

The ball bearings in the variable caps look fairly clean. Question now is what 
did the capacitor manufacturer(s) originally use to lube them?

I do not wish to even think about removing the variable capacitors or the 
passband tuning unit. While these controls do move fairly well, they are not 
smooth through their entire rotation, exhibiting stiffer and easier rotation 
at places.

While I should be able to lube the ball bearings in the variable capacitors 
with grease and a toothpick, the shaft sleeves are more difficult.

Perhaps rather than do more damage with some lube spray I should just live 
with them as they are. I don't see any other way to lube the shafts of the 
preselector capacitor and the passband tuning unit other than spraying into 
the knob end of the sleeves.

Perhaps a bit of new grease in the preselector capacitor ball bearings will be 
enough without worrying about lubing the shaft.

The main tuning knob shaft is easy to clean and relube. Probably a good 
candidate for white lithium grease.

Also I don't see any evidence of grease along the metal where the dial pointer 
slides. In cleaning up this panel, I am removing what I suspect is residue 
from cigarette or tobacco smoke. Perhaps just getting rid of that gummy 
substance will be enough for the dial pointer without any lube. And that 
combined with a bit of new grease on the capacitor ball bearings and the main 
tuning knob shaft may be good enough.

Not sure if the bandswitch bearing and detent at the rear of the 2-B was  
lubed at the factory or not. I will open it and see. The bandswitch actually 
moves quite well.

Also the pots that are only set during alignment will be left alone, except if 
they indicate a problem during the realignment. Only then will they get a 
shot of Deoxit. I have new pots for the AF and RF gain controls.

The bandswitch contacts will still be cleaned up with deoxit and a foam swap.

Please keep those emails coming as I am learning a great deal.

73,
Darrell
VA7TO



On Thursday 24 July 2008 20:12, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> What lubricants do you use for the ball bearings, sleeve bearings, and
> other moving parts.
>
> I see in the archives that lithium grease is popular and Tri-Flow teflon
> Superior Lubricant has been used.
>
> I would like to lube the following parts:
>
> 1) Preselector shaft and ball bearings. I am a bit scared of this one as it
> incorporates a reduction drive and I am afraid that changing the friction
> may affect the reduction drive.
>
> 2) Main tuning capacitor ball bearings.
>
> 3) The two plastic wheels at the top of the dial string pointer mechanism.
>
> 4) The dial pointer.
>
> 5) The main tuning shaft. I will also experiment with slightly thicker
> washers to see if I can eliminate the fore and aft play. Perhaps a felt
> washer may do the trick.
>
> 6) The detent at the rear of the bandswitch.
>
> 7) The passband tuning control shafts. This one looks difficult.
>
> I will clean the bandswitch contacts with a foam swab and deoxit, and spray
> the pots and slide switches with deoxit. I will make note of the position
> of the pots before spraying them and return them to their original
> position. I do plan on doing an alignment and fine tuning them then.
>
> Anyone successful at cleaning the bandwidth rotary switch contacts? They
> appear to be completely hidden.
>
> Any tips, tricks, suggestions, or cautions on the above?
>
> For those of you getting tired of my many posts, this is the end of my
> weekend as I get Wednesday and Thursday off, so there won't be as many
> posts for the next 5 days. :-)
>
> Thanks to everyone who has offered advic

[drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Tubes Request

2008-07-25 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I am looking for a 6BF6 and a 6AQ5 for my Drake 2-B. Would prefer Sylvania or 
RCA.

What should I expect to pay for NOS tubes in known good condition?

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey,

Thanks so much for all of your assistance!

I never thought about removing the tube. I guess that was what was confusing 
me. I've been running the receiver with both the tube and the diodes since I 
acquired it. Hope that didn't damage anything.

I will remove the mod and put it back the way that Drake designed it. I like 
the advantages of the lower noise due to lower B+ voltages, and the delay in 
B+ reaching full voltage. I would expect the delay and lower B+ voltages to 
have a positive effect on the life of the tubes.

Also been thinking about the double pole slide switch for the AVC. If I can't 
find a replacement switch, a small DPDT relay might be the answer. Use the 
existing switch to control the relay and let the relay do the switching. A 
relay with a low current 6.3 VAC coil would be ideal as it could be powered 
from the filament supply.

73,
Darrell


On Thursday 24 July 2008 19:28, Garey Barrell wrote:
> Darrell -
>
> The "mod" has replaced the 6X4 rectifier tube with solid state diodes.
> The tube is serving no purpose and can be left out.  Most likely the
> modifier left the tube out, and the "seller" inserted the tube to keep
> from answering the question "why is this tube socket empty".
>
> There are at least two schools of thought here.  One is that the solid
> state diodes are more efficient (less voltage drop), don't consume
> filament power (and produce attendant heat), and eliminate the need for
> a tube!  The 100 ohm resistor is just to limit the current when those
> "zero drop" diodes with 60 A surge current capabilities see those
> discharged filter caps that look like a short circuit!  On the negative
> side, the resultant B+ is higher than the design was intended to have
> (resulting in additional heat dissipated throughout the receiver).  One
> of the reasons the 2-B (and Collins 75S-x receivers are so quiet is the
> low B+ (reduced thermal noise from the tubes).   Also, the rest of the
> tubes in the receiver are subjected to full B+ before the tubes have any
> chance to warm up and generate the space charge (electron cloud) around
> the cathode to protect it from back bombardment.  There is some evidence
> that this causes the cathode to be damaged, and shortens the life of the
> tube.
>
> Drake and most manufacturers went to solid state rectifiers en masse,
> starting with the R-4, albeit with a lower voltage transformer to
> compensate.  The two diodes were considerably cheaper than a tube and
> socket and filament winding and associated assembly costs, tubes were
> almost all around a dollar, and so nobody cared.  Personally, as long as
> 6X4 tubes are plentiful and available for a buck or two, I'll stick with
> the tube.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
> Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> > I have found two mods that have previously done on my 2-B:
> >
> > 1) A second headphone jack has been added to the back panel. It is wired
> > in parallel with the headphone jack at the front. It is wired for
> > connection of an external speaker as it will not break the connection to
> > the normal speaker output. I will simply remove it.
> >
> > 2) A 100 ohm resistor and two solid state diodes have been added in the
> > high voltage section. R55 (470 ohms) was lifted from pin 7 of V10 (6X4
> > power rectifier) and a 100 ohm resistor inserted in between. Two diodes
> > (1N2071A) are attached from the junction of the new 100 ohm resistor and
> > R55 and connect to each of the two plates in V10. The anodes of each of
> > the solid state diodes are attached to the anodes of V10.
> >
> > Attached is a picture showing the high voltage mod. The diagram on the
> > left is the factory schematic, and the diagram on the right show the mod
> > in red.
> >
> > What would have been the purpose of such a mod and should it be reversed?
> >
> > 73, Darrell VA7TO

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
What lubricants do you use for the ball bearings, sleeve bearings, and other 
moving parts.

I see in the archives that lithium grease is popular and Tri-Flow teflon 
Superior Lubricant has been used.

I would like to lube the following parts:

1) Preselector shaft and ball bearings. I am a bit scared of this one as it 
incorporates a reduction drive and I am afraid that changing the friction may 
affect the reduction drive.

2) Main tuning capacitor ball bearings.

3) The two plastic wheels at the top of the dial string pointer mechanism.

4) The dial pointer.

5) The main tuning shaft. I will also experiment with slightly thicker washers 
to see if I can eliminate the fore and aft play. Perhaps a felt washer may do 
the trick.

6) The detent at the rear of the bandswitch.

7) The passband tuning control shafts. This one looks difficult.

I will clean the bandswitch contacts with a foam swab and deoxit, and spray 
the pots and slide switches with deoxit. I will make note of the position of 
the pots before spraying them and return them to their original position. I 
do plan on doing an alignment and fine tuning them then.

Anyone successful at cleaning the bandwidth rotary switch contacts? They 
appear to be completely hidden.

Any tips, tricks, suggestions, or cautions on the above?

For those of you getting tired of my many posts, this is the end of my weekend 
as I get Wednesday and Thursday off, so there won't be as many posts for the 
next 5 days. :-)

Thanks to everyone who has offered advice and encouragement. It is much 
appreciated.

73, Darrell VA7TO



-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] New List Archive Address

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thom,

I am having trouble with the new archive address.

If I search for "preselector" at the new address 
http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net I get:
http://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=drakelist%40zerobeat.net&q=preselector
with 2 matches.

At the old address http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] the 
same search results in this:
http://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=drakelist%40www.zerobeat.net&q=preselector
with 71 matches.

Looks like the list name changed at about the beginning of June and each list 
name has its own archive.

73,
Darrell
VA7TO


On Thursday 24 July 2008 00:53, Thom LaCosta wrote:
> Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> The archive of this list has a new address:
>
> http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/
>
> 73,
> Thom k3hrn
>
>
> --
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-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
That is precisely what I was wondering. Was it an improvement to the receiver 
or just a cost savings or ease of production measure.


On Thursday 24 July 2008 15:00, Garey Barrell wrote:
> All except R65 and C80 are related to AVC attack and decay times.  Drake
> didn't change them because they got a "buy" on surplus parts!  :-)
>

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey has confirmed that the schematic that came with my 2-B manual is the 
proper manual that came with the 2-B from the factory.

My schematic is numbered 124614500.

Comp. MySchematic s/n 5735Late Version
C340.005uF 0.005uF  0.005uF
C630.0024uF   0.0024uF0.001uF
C670.01uF   0.01uF0.001uF
C80N/A N/A 0.02uF
R4768k68k 680k
R651.5k 1/2w   1.5k 1w  1.5k 1w
R71N/A N/A 33k

So now the question becomes, is it worth updating my 2-B to match the latest 
version from Drake?

I would have to change C63, C67, R47, and add R71, C80 and replace the AVC 
switch with a double pole version.

Looks like C67 and R47 are part of a timing circuit in the AVC. Both 
components have been shifted an order of magnitude from the early 2-B to the 
late 2-B.

C63 is also part of the AVC. I'm not certain as to what it's function is, but 
I suspect changing it will alter the frequencies that influence the AVC 
action.

Garey already stated that C80 is an additional filter on the Bias supply, and 
R71 decreases the IF AVC attack time in Slow AVC.

Looks like someone already changed R65 to a 1 watt.

Should I make the changes or not?

73, Darrell VA7TO


On Thursday 24 July 2008 09:26, Garey Barrell wrote:
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
> Darrell -
>
> There are a few changes between the two versions.
>
> Comp. s/n 3001   s/n 6290  Loc.
> C34 N/A   0.005 uF   V2
> C63 0.0024 uF 0.001V6
> C67 0.01  0.001V8
> C80 N/A   0.02  V8
> R47 68k680kV8
> R651.5k 1/2W 1.5k 1w V2
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
> Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> > Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> > gang
> > --
> > Garey,
> >
> > Are there any more changes that Drake made to the 2-B during it's
> > production?
> >
> > Darrell
>
-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Garey! You are a wealth of information.

The schematic that came with my 2-B manual is yet a different version from the 
two schematics on your CD. The manual looks like a photocopy so I cannot be 
sure it was the actual manual that came with the 2-B from the factory.

My schematic is numbered 124614500.

Comp. MySchematic s/n 5735
C340.005uF 0.005uF
C630.0024uF   0.0024uF
C670.01uF   
C80N/A N/A
R4768K
R651.5k 1/2w   1.5k 1w
R71N/A N/A 

I need help finding R47 and C67. Anybody point me in the right direction?

Also found some mods in the B+ circuitry. I'll post those in a separate email.

73, Darrell VA7TO


On Thursday 24 July 2008 09:26, Garey Barrell wrote:
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
> Darrell -
>
> There are a few changes between the two versions.
>
> Comp. s/n 3001   s/n 6290  Loc.
> C34 N/A   0.005 uF   V2
> C63 0.0024 uF 0.001V6
> C67 0.01  0.001V8
> C80 N/A   0.02  V8
> R47 68k680kV8
> R651.5k 1/2W 1.5k 1w V2
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
> Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> > Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> > gang
> > --
> > Garey,
> >
> > Are there any more changes that Drake made to the 2-B during it's
> > production?
> >
> > Darrell
>
-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Hum Mod?

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Has anyone done the B&B Technical Services Hum modification on their 2-B?

The mod replaces R56 with a jumper and adds extra capacitance to C70. This 
adds 25 volts to B+3 but does reduce the ripple.

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey,

Are there any more changes that Drake made to the 2-B during it's production?

Darrell


On Thursday 24 July 2008 07:41, Garey Barrell wrote:
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
> Don -
>
> Your 2-B is Version 2, (change at s/n 6290,) and has one more resistor
> and one more capacitor than Darrell's!  Both changes are in the BIAS /
> AVC circuit.  The cap is an additional filter on the Bias supply, and
> the resistor decreases the IF AVC attack time in Slow AVC.  The resistor
> requires additional switch section, and some of the Version 1 receivers
> had a double-pole switch with only one used.
>
> Darrell, both schematics are on the CD, and C80 and R71 are both located
> near the 8BN8 Bias Rect section.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-24 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey,

My 2-B does indeed have the earlier circuit and does not have the double pole 
switch.

I am wondering how difficult it will be to find a matching red double pole 
slide switch and if updating the 2-B is worth it. Anyone have a double pole 
red slide switch to sell or know of a source?

73, Darrell VA7TO



On Thursday 24 July 2008 07:41, Garey Barrell wrote:
> Don -
>
> Your 2-B is Version 2, (change at s/n 6290,) and has one more resistor
> and one more capacitor than Darrell's!  Both changes are in the BIAS /
> AVC circuit.  The cap is an additional filter on the Bias supply, and
> the resistor decreases the IF AVC attack time in Slow AVC.  The resistor
> requires additional switch section, and some of the Version 1 receivers
> had a double-pole switch with only one used.
>
> Darrell, both schematics are on the CD, and C80 and R71 are both located
> near the 8BN8 Bias Rect section.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2B Project Part 1

2008-07-23 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
After reading a few articles on restoration, my 2B project is not a 
restoration that will include disassembling the entire radio or even a 
rejuvenation that includes painting. Perhaps calling it a tune-up is more 
apropos.

73, Darrell VA7TO

On Wednesday 23 July 2008 18:53, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
> Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> When I completed my first radio restoration project, an Heathkit GR-81, and
> announced that my next project would be a Drake 2-B receiver, a few people
> asked me to post my progress to the mailing list. I will cross post to both
> the Drake (drakelist@zerobeat.net) and Glowbugs
> ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) lists. I will also include "VA7TO
> 2-B:" in the subject for those who would like to filter messages.

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-23 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Don,

You will love the 2B/2BQ. It is a superb receiver.

Mine is serial number 5735 so your receiver would be about 5 months newer than 
mine according to the chart at 
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeSNDatabase-P1.htm

73,
Darrell
VA7TO

On Wednesday 23 July 2008 19:40, Don Cunningham wrote:
> "Don Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
> Darrell,
> I will be joining you on that journey soon.  I just got my 2B/2BQ in this
> evening (s/n 10040) and it looks to be in "nice, unrestored" condition.  I
> have always wanted one of these, and looks like I got a fairly clean
> chassis even!  Just a few "suspect" places from what I can see with the
> cover on. More later as the project progresses, but it may well be
> fall/winter with all the gardening and summer activities, hi.  Keep us
> posted, Darrell!! Now, looking for the 2NT to go with it
> . 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>
>
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-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-23 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey,

Thanks for the tip on the 6EA8 at V-2. From what I read on the web it looks 
like a direct replacement. Just plug it in. Am I correct?

I have four good 6EA8's. Testing them on my Mercury Model 990 tube tester show 
the following emission levels:

ProComm (Gt Britain) Triode 81 Pentode 81
HitRay (Japan) Triode 80 Pentode 78
Phillips Triode 79 Pentode 77
RCA Triode 76 Pentode 70

The tube tester good range is from 50 to 100.

From your message it looks like the oscillator triode is the problem with the 
6U8 and not the pentode (1st mixer) section.

Which of the above tubes would you use and why?

73,
Darrell
VA7TO

On Wednesday 23 July 2008 20:07, Garey Barrell wrote:
> The 2-B came with Sylvania or RCA tubes when new.  By the way, Zenith
> didn't make tubes, and all Zenith branded tubes were made by Sylvania.
>
> V2 can be problematic.  The 6U8(A) is marginal on gain, and as it ages
> the 18.0 MHz crystal will sometimes fail to oscillate.  The oscillator
> circuit is a little different in that it operates with fundamental
> crystals below 18 MHz, and 3rd overtone crystals from 18 MHz and up,
> with no switching.   Anyway, the 18.0 MHz crystal is a 3rd overtone, and
> seems to be "on the edge" in more ways than one.   Changing tube to a
> 6EA8, with its higher gain, will make this circuit more reliable.  Quite
> a few 18.0 MHz crystals have been replaced over the years, when a simple
> tube change would usually "fix" the old one.
>
> The 8BN8 is correct also.  The very first 2-A's had a 6BN8 here, but at
> s/n 1000, it was changed to an 8BN8 for hum reduction.  There is an
> article at www.wb4hfn.com explaining the mechanism involved.
>
> You're off to a good start!
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] VA7TO 2-B: Drake 2-B Restoration Project Part 1

2008-07-23 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
When I completed my first radio restoration project, an Heathkit GR-81, and 
announced that my next project would be a Drake 2-B receiver, a few people 
asked me to post my progress to the mailing list. I will cross post to both 
the Drake (drakelist@zerobeat.net) and Glowbugs 
([EMAIL PROTECTED]) lists. I will also include "VA7TO 2-B:" 
in the subject for those who would like to filter messages.

I hope that this serves two purposes, first is for me to gain from the 
experience of others, and learn some tips and tricks and second to document 
what I have done so that those following me in a 2-B project can learn from 
my efforts.

First of all a little history of my 2-B. I purchased it at the Spokane Hamfest 
in September of 2007 complete with 2-BQ Q multiplier and speaker. The seller 
did not know much of the history of the radio, and a quick test at the 
hamfest showed it received a 40 meter test signal. I paid $275 cash. The 
radio is in good shape cosmetically and looked fairly clean inside.

The receiver immediately went into service as my bedside receiver. I was 
thoroughly impressed by the audio quality and the selectivity on CW with the 
Q-multiplier. Hindsight is 20/20 and I wished that I had purchased a 2-B as 
my first receiver rather than an Hallicrafters SX-140 back in 1975.

The 2-B saw regular duty for several months, until one evening it exhibited a 
loud white noise sound. At that point it was taken out of service and has 
remained unused. The details on the white noise sound are in this message: 
http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/msg08842.html

Last night I pulled the cover off and was surprised to see how clean the 
inside of the chassis is. It is also a lot easier to work on than I had 
thought it would be.

In operation, the passband control did not seem to line up with the knob 
markings and I suspected that the knob had been reinstalled incorrectly at 
some point in the past. Using the information on Garey Barrell, K4OAH's Drake 
2-B Service Supplement CD, I was able to confirm that the knob had been 
placed 90 degrees clockwise from where it should have been and I readjusted 
it.

For a starting reference point I measured all the points listed in the 
resistance table in the 2-B manual. I was also surprised to see that the 
measured readings were quite close to those listed in the table.

The radio was NOT connected to anything including the power, 2-BQ or speaker, 
and the controls were set as follows:
Preselector: 5
Band: 15 M
Power: Off
Cal: Off
Stby: Rcv
AVC: Slow AVC
NL: On
Detector: Product
BFO: On
RF Gain: Max (fully clockwise)
AF Gain: Max (fully clockwise)
Passband: 2.1 kHz and Knob arrow pointed to 12:00 o'clock.
Freq: 21.150 Mhz

The resistance of pin 3 of V-8 will be altered by the position of the noise 
limiter (NL) switch. Intially I had the switch off and measured only 346 kilo 
ohms, rather than the 2.5 mega ohms I should have seen. A quick check of the 
schematic showed that the switch must be on to reach the specified 
resistance.

The next step was to test the tubes.
V-1 (RF amp) and Zenith 6BZ6 - Tested OK
V-2 (1st mixer & xtal osc) RCA 6U8A - Tested shorted
V-3 (2nd mixer & vfo) RCA 6BE6 - Tested OK
V-4 (3rd mixer) Sylvania 6BE6 - Tested OK
V-5 (IF amp) Sylvania 6BA6 - Tested OK
V-6 (AVC Amp and AM det) Sylvania 6BF6 - Tested right on the line between good 
and bad
V-7 (Prod Det and BFO) Sylvania 6BE6 - Tested OK
V-8 (audio amp) Sylvania 8BN8 - Tested OK
V-9 (audio output) Sylvania 6AQ5 - Tested just into the good
V-10 (Power Rect) unreadable brand 6X4 - Tested OK
Crystal Calibrator Sylvania 6BZ6 - Tested shorted
2-BQ Sylvania 12AX7 - Tested OK

I had a spare 6BZ6 of unreadable brand that I substituted into the crystal 
calibrator and also a spare 6U8A also of unreadable brand that I substituted 
into V-2. So all the shorted tubes have been replaced, but some low emission 
tubes should also be replaced.

The manual specifies a 6U8 at V-2, but there was a 6U8A there. Should this be 
replaced with a 6U8?

I would guess that the 2-B originally came with all Sylvania tubes. Can anyone 
confirm this? Are there better brands that anyone would recommend for certain 
tubes or stages?

I would like to replace the 6BF6 (V-6) and the 6AQ5 (V-9) with stronger tubes. 
I am wondering if I should stay with Sylvania brand tubes or if it matters, 
or if there are better brands to use. Should I even go so far as to replace 
the non-Sylvania tubes with Sylvania tubes or other recommended brands?

I also have a number of industrial tubes and wonder about tube substitution 
with some of these.

Please reply with your comments and suggestions on what you think I should do 
about the tubes.

While I wait for advice on tubes and then source replacements, I will begin 
work on recapping, repl

Re: [drakelist] MN2000 & balanced feeders

2008-06-02 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
While a balun on the output side of a tuner will couple some energy it may not 
be very efficient at some impedances.

A balun, whether 1:1 or 4:1, is designed for a specific characteristic 
impedance. In most ham radio applications the transmitter side impedance is 
designed for 50 ohms unbalanced. So in a 1:1 balun the antenna side should 
have a resistive impedance of 50 ohms balanced and a 4:1 balun should have a 
resistive impedance of 200 ohms balanced.

As the antenna impedance changes from the designed characteristic impedance by 
reactance and/or resistance, the efficiency and transformation ratio will 
deteriorate. Just how much will depend on the design of the balun windings, 
the core material, and the resistance and reactance of the load.

As many point out, it will still work. One can lose as much as 6 to 10 dB or 
more in a tuner, balun, and feedline and still make lots of contacts. QRP 
operators prove this all the time.

Heating of the core material is one indicator of lost power, but remember that 
the lost power will heat a small core to a much higher temperature than a 
large core. So just because the core does not get too warm, doesn't mean 
power isn't being lost to heat.

Modern automatic antenna tuners are hard to beat for ease of operation, but 
for the highest efficiency it is hard to beat the old link coupled tuners for 
balanced line applications.

All electrical systems are compromises between a number of variables such as 
efficiency, cost, ergonomics, size, weight, availability of materials, etc. 
Just be sure you understand the compromises you are making.

73,
Darrell
VA7TO 



On Monday 02 June 2008 03:12, Ed G wrote:
> I have had great success here with what is essentially a 135 foot inverted
> vee fed with 300 ohm twinlead. I use a DX Engineering 1:1 balun mounted
> outside the house, with a short section of RG-8 leading into the shack (and
> the MN-2000). That way I don't have to worry about bringing in the
> twinlead. The 1:1 balun keeps the impedance on the transmission line from
> dropping too low as might happen with the 4:1 balun. I did slightly change
> the length of the twinlead (should be approx 108/F) to find a perfect match
> on all bands.
>
> --Ed G-

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] Best Coax....

2008-06-02 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
In todays world of a multitude of RF sources everywhere, I have chosen to use 
only double shielded cable to help minimize ingress. Perhaps overkill, but 
keeping unwanted signals out of my station is a factor I consider important.

73,
Darrell
VA7TO



On Monday 02 June 2008 13:27, Philip Grocki wrote:
> Folks:
>
> I have a TR-4C and just getting into the ham "scene" again.  I'm setting-up
> my new station and wondering what is the best all-around coax for vertical
> and beam antennas with this rig?  I'm thinking RG-8/U.please advise. 
> Thank you.

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] Help with 2-B Diagnosis

2008-03-12 Thread Darrell Bellerive

Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Terry,

Thanks for the message. I already have Garey's CD. It is indeed a great source 
of information. I can see where it will be worth it's weight in gold once the 
cover comes off my 2-B.

73,

Darrell


On Wednesday 12 March 2008 07:45, Terrell Hamilton wrote:
> "Terrell Hamilton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
>
> Darrell - Probably an unneeded suggestion, but I found Garey's CD on the 2B
> to be very helpful.  It's not free, but then sometimes advice (like this)
> is free because it's not worth much. (grin) Here's the link for what it's
> worth - hey, that's sort of funny...
>
>  http://www.k4oah.com
>
> 73
> Terry
> K7WLD
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Darrell Bellerive
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 11:31 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [drakelist] Help with 2-B Diagnosis
>
>
> Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Last night my Drake 2-B receiver displayed a new problem.
>
> Over a period of a few seconds the normal static and static crashes on 80
> metres was supplanted by loud static, which was maintained for several
> seconds and then over a period of a few more seconds subsided. This whole
> process repeated a few times. The loud static was smoother than the normal
> atmospheric static and sounded more like white noise.
>
> This loud static or white noise had no static crashes and movement of the
> preselector did not affect the level. The s-meter followed the level of
> this
>
> noise. The RF and AF gain controls functioned normally as did all other
> controls on the radio and the 2BQ. The top of the cabinet also felt much
> hotter than normal particularly over the power transformer side of the
> cabinet.
>
> Since the preselector did not affect the level of the noise, it is unlikely
> the noise was coming in on the antenna and therefore was generated
> internally. Looking at the schematic the preselector is on the input side
> of
>
> the RF amp and the s-meter on the output side of the last IF amp, so the
> problem could be anywhere in between.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Another problem I have noticed is that the 'A' band receives 80 meters
> exactly
> like the 80 meter band does even though there is no crystal in the 'A' band
> crystal jack. I suspect that the 80 meter crystal may have been jumpered to
> the 'A' band crystal jack, but am curious as to why. The receiver seems to
> function equally well on both bands.
>
> I purchased the receiver last September at a hamfest and have not opened up
> the rig, so have not inspected the crystal area inside the chassis.
>
> Other than a bit of hum and a little distortion on AM signals detected on
> the
> diode detector, the radio has worked very well.
>
> I have been collecting parts to recap the receiver and add the 'A' band to
> 160
> meter mod, test all the tubes, and do a clean up, lube, and realignment.
> Also
> possibly do the AF Mod de W7ZFB, and the B&B hum mod.
>
> Looks like I will finally have to look under the hood.
>
> 73,
> Darrell

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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[drakelist] Help with 2-B Diagnosis

2008-03-11 Thread Darrell Bellerive

Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Last night my Drake 2-B receiver displayed a new problem.

Over a period of a few seconds the normal static and static crashes on 80 
metres was supplanted by loud static, which was maintained for several 
seconds and then over a period of a few more seconds subsided. This whole 
process repeated a few times. The loud static was smoother than the normal 
atmospheric static and sounded more like white noise.

This loud static or white noise had no static crashes and movement of the 
preselector did not affect the level. The s-meter followed the level of this 
noise. The RF and AF gain controls functioned normally as did all other 
controls on the radio and the 2BQ. The top of the cabinet also felt much 
hotter than normal particularly over the power transformer side of the 
cabinet.

Since the preselector did not affect the level of the noise, it is unlikely 
the noise was coming in on the antenna and therefore was generated 
internally. Looking at the schematic the preselector is on the input side of 
the RF amp and the s-meter on the output side of the last IF amp, so the 
problem could be anywhere in between.

Any ideas?

Another problem I have noticed is that the 'A' band receives 80 meters exactly 
like the 80 meter band does even though there is no crystal in the 'A' band 
crystal jack. I suspect that the 80 meter crystal may have been jumpered to 
the 'A' band crystal jack, but am curious as to why. The receiver seems to 
function equally well on both bands.

I purchased the receiver last September at a hamfest and have not opened up 
the rig, so have not inspected the crystal area inside the chassis.

Other than a bit of hum and a little distortion on AM signals detected on the 
diode detector, the radio has worked very well.

I have been collecting parts to recap the receiver and add the 'A' band to 160 
meter mod, test all the tubes, and do a clean up, lube, and realignment. Also 
possibly do the AF Mod de W7ZFB, and the B&B hum mod.

Looks like I will finally have to look under the hood.

73,
Darrell

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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Re: [drakelist] Drakes for sale R4Bs

2008-01-02 Thread Darrell Bellerive

Darrell Bellerive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Dan,

Do you still have an R4B for sale?

If so, are they early or late production models. The late production used a 
FET in the PTO rather than a bipolar transistor.

Although I live in Canada, I live right next to the US border and can receive 
packages in Danville WA 99121.

What would shipping costs be to Danville WA 99121?

I could pay via PayPal or USPS Money Order.

Darrell
VA7TO


On Wednesday 26 December 2007 09:04, Daniel Wright wrote:
> Daniel Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang --
> Greetings!
>
> I have three R4Bs for sale.
>
> I have checked them, and they work fine.
>
> These radios are nice, functional units. They look good, but they are
> NOT COLLECTOR'S ITEMS. I would say that they are about average to MAYBE
> a little above average. Some chassis spotting. Cabinets and faces all
> good. Original knobs. They work just fine!
>
> $150 plus shipping for any single RX.
>
> Package deal available if you come pick them up...
>
> Thanks es
>
> 73 de Dan --WA0JRD ..
>
> Lincoln, Nebraska
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 402-489-8063 (home)
>
> ps. I also have some T4Xs (2) and a TR3/RV3 that I have not checked yet,
> but will sell.
>
>
> --
> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada

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