Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
Hi Curt, Thanks for your advice. I have copied the list in now as you suggest. I do have Gary's excellent CD. Regrettably I did not catch it in time. Great pity it was all tested out okay all bands ready for an antenna! 73 Damien Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 13:24:28 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net To: damienman...@hotmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Hi Damien: Yes, especially when replying to posts, be sure to note where the reply is directed address-wise. Always good to copy the list as well as any direct message so others can follow along with the discussion responses. The scenario Garey outlined is very likely indeed. It kind of was an extension of my comment about it is sometimes hard to tell exactly what was going to happen in all stages of the rig. He went into the schematic a little deeper than I did--All of those guys are very knowledgeable in the Drake line-up. If you plan to do much work at all on these rigs, Garey's CD with annotated pictures and notes is the best available as far as I know. Hopefully, you caught it before the finals or other parts got damaged. BTW, a fan pulling air out of the back of the cage is a great benefit to these rigs to shed some of the heat. That being said, these things will run 24/7 at rated output in tough modes like RTTY and just keep going--they are very robust as long as properly loaded. Cheers Curt On 3/13/2014 11:20 AM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi Curt, Thanks again. I will do everything you suggest. Actually I am puzzled myself as to how the list works nowadays! I did in fact also hear from Mike Bryce (no call sign given), Evan K9SQG and Gary K4OAH who also kindly invited me to join the DrakeRadio group. Never knew it existed but I will certainly join. Regards, Damien G3XER Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 11:07:11 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net To: damienman...@hotmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Hi Damien: Doesn't change my thoughts really. Even tho the relay for Tx would not be engaged, and this keeps the cathodes floating and not grounded, with bias very low or removed from the grids, the tubes will conduct enough to get hot for sure. I think the worst is that the current comes thru the grids so can physically damage the tube internals. Which tubes, finals or driver, or others, is a guess only--perhaps all to some degree. I would just power it up again with a full on AC4 and monitor it closely to be sure nothing has gotten burned or out of tolerance enough to do damage. Especially, confirm that the bias control does what it is supposed to do with adjustment range, verify that the current reading of plate current is close (be careful!) and do an operational check-out. These are very robust rigs but the finals are especially intolerant of unloaded or excessive plate current being that they are TV sweep tubes. Let us know how it goes. Kind of surprised we haven't heard from anyone else on the list. Curt KU8L On 3/13/2014 10:31 AM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi Curt, Thank you for your two replies. I am most grateful for your input. How one can be misled. I certainly thought I was doing the right thing! No sure if it makes any difference to your conclusions but I never switched to transmit I just left the TR4 in Receive mode. 73 Damien Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:25:26 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Thinking about it a little more, since it may or may not have transitioned to TX, the driver or any of the other tubes that are bias controlled can do the same at reduced voltages
Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
Hi Garey, Thank you for going to so much trouble. I am embarrassed by your kindness. I have followed your advice as far as possible and appreciate the reminder about lethal voltages. Having inspected the P.A. compartment, above and below the chassis, in minute detail I cannot see any sign of overheating or stress. The 3 x 15 ohm resisters look like brand new and check out okay. The P.A. tubes have opaque silver circles, about the size of a Quarter, on opposite sides of the glass envelope. Probably that is normal! Unfortunately that is as far as I can go as the radio is pretty well dead. So irritating when on Monday of this week it checked out fine on all bands and was just waiting for a proper antenna instead of a dummy load. I really have screwed things up! To be more specific, when powered it lights up the tubes, the ones I can tell in daylight anyway, including the heaters in the one P.A. tube I have left in place. However the S meter does not move at all and there is no hiss in the speaker. The Plate meter does not move at all no matter what I do with any tuning control. As you so rightly put it ' there are probably other failed components that will have to be identified and replaced'. Unless something really simple comes to your mind I doubt that I am the right person to pursue this. Whilst I am anxious to learn about and maintain this equipment eventually, I doubt that with my present so limited knowledge I will be able to cope with the problem. What I am going to do is ask the net if any British Drake fans know who is the best person over here with Drake service experience. Again many thanks for your help. 73 Damien G3XER Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 12:27:53 -0400 From: k4...@mindspring.com To: damienman...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Damien - We're glad to have you join us.! It's a good group, and they all love Drake gear :-) Unfortunately, no. The problem is almost certainly that at one point the Plate and Screen voltages on the PA were 'up' and the BIAS voltage was not high enough to keep the T-R relay cut off. The causes the radio to go into TRANSMIT mode and probably being un-tuned, the PA had to dissipate well in excess of it's rated power. Depending upon how things worked out, you most likely have damaged one or more of the PA tubes. If so, it will be impossible to evaluate the transmitter condition accurately until they have been replaced. ***CAREFUL! THERE ARE LETHAL VOLTAGES BOTH ABOVE AND BELOW CHASSIS. WAIT AT LEAST 5 MINUTES AFTER SWITCHING OFF BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING INSIDE THE RADIO. *** What I would suggest is to disconnect the power supply from the radio, and carefully examine the chassis area under the PA. Check the 15 ohm resistors across each of the three sockets for value and condition, and look for any evidence of overheating. Then remove two of the PA tubes, placing the plate caps well clear of the shielding. Reconnect the power supply, let the radio warm up for 10 minutes in Receive. Set the XMTR GAIN control to minimum and switch to 'X-CW'. The PLATE meter should read about 30 mA. If it does NOT, adjust the BIAS pot on the power supply to set it to 30 mA. Then switch to SSB, power off, wait five minutes, and then remove the single PA tube and put another one in the SAME socket. Power on and NOTE the PLATE current reading. Hopefully it will be very close to 30 mA. If not, write down the reading and power down. Repeat for the third tube as above. If all three are reasonably close to 30 mA, you can proceed. IF one or more are considerably different (30 +/- 10%) you will need new PA tubes. If NO PLATE current is displayed, there are probably other failed components that will have to be identified and replaced. Report back with your progress!! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Damien Mannix wrote: Gary, Thanks, I will be delighted to join your group. Did not know it existed! Sorry. Obviously I have received bad advice about bringing old equipment to life. Something to do with reforming electrolytics I believe! The TR4 was never switched to transmit just left in Receive mode. May I trouble you again by asking if you think that makes an difference to your views? 73, Damien G3XER Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2014 13:45:57 -0400 From: k4...@mindspring.com To: damienman...@hotmail.com Subject: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Damien - Sorry for the rant! I got so wrapped up in your problem that I forgot to ask you to join us. It just hurts that so much gear is damaged by 'internet engineers' and the 'rules' that they promulgate. I sent you an invitation to the DrakeRadio group. It is a much more active
Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
Thinking about it a little more, since it may or may not have transitioned to TX, the driver or any of the other tubes that are bias controlled can do the same at reduced voltages. Hope there was no long term damage. I once worked on a FT101E that had a defective socket on the grid of one of the finals. As soon as HV came on, with that grid floating, it began cooking. Bias measured OK, all voltages lookedOK, but no bias was getting to the actual tube--duh! I finally figured out what was going on after the tube got so hot, the vacuum sucked a hole thru the side of the tube. Still have that tube BTW...reminder.. Curt KU8L On 3/12/2014 12:18 PM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi all, Still waiting for better weather to put up an antenna but then ready to go with my TR4/AC4 which are fine into a dummy load, or at least they were! Bought a, supposedly good, AC4 as a spare. Decided to power it up gradually with the TR4 as a load. Two hours at 50v, two at 80v, two at 110v, two at 140v. No problems and a fan on the rear behind the PA begins to run at this voltage. Then, ten minutes at 170v and 'wow' what is that smell? I thought it was my shack heater. No it was the TR4. The top, above the forward most PA tube, was unbelievably hot. Switched off immediately of course. Can't spot anything untoward in the PA compartment so after a complete cool down I took it slowly up to 230v with my usual AC4. Not done a full test but it seems perfectly happy again, heat and smell wise, after 30 minutes at 230v. Might I have ruined anything and, presumably, the fault is in the AC4. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 73 Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
Hi Damien: Doesn't change my thoughts really. Even tho the relay for Tx would not be engaged, and this keeps the cathodes floating and not grounded, with bias very low or removed from the grids, the tubes will conduct enough to get hot for sure. I think the worst is that the current comes thru the grids so can physically damage the tube internals. Which tubes, finals or driver, or others, is a guess only--perhaps all to some degree. I would just power it up again with a full on AC4 and monitor it closely to be sure nothing has gotten burned or out of tolerance enough to do damage. Especially, confirm that the bias control does what it is supposed to do with adjustment range, verify that the current reading of plate current is close (be careful!) and do an operational check-out. These are very robust rigs but the finals are especially intolerant of unloaded or excessive plate current being that they are TV sweep tubes. Let us know how it goes. Kind of surprised we haven't heard from anyone else on the list. Curt KU8L On 3/13/2014 10:31 AM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi Curt, Thank you for your two replies. I am most grateful for your input. How one can be misled. I certainly thought I was doing the right thing! No sure if it makes any difference to your conclusions but I never switched to transmit I just left the TR4 in Receive mode. 73 Damien Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:25:26 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Thinking about it a little more, since it may or may not have transitioned to TX, the driver or any of the other tubes that are bias controlled can do the same at reduced voltages. Hope there was no long term damage. I once worked on a FT101E that had a defective socket on the grid of one of the finals. As soon as HV came on, with that grid floating, it began cooking. Bias measured OK, all voltages lookedOK, but no bias was getting to the actual tube--duh! I finally figured out what was going on after the tube got so hot, the vacuum sucked a hole thru the side of the tube. Still have that tube BTW...reminder.. Curt KU8L On 3/12/2014 12:18 PM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi all, Still waiting for better weather to put up an antenna but then ready to go with my TR4/AC4 which are fine into a dummy load, or at least they were! Bought a, supposedly good, AC4 as a spare. Decided to power it up gradually with the TR4 as a load. Two hours at 50v, two at 80v, two at 110v, two at 140v. No problems and a fan on the rear behind the PA begins to run at this voltage. Then, ten minutes at 170v and 'wow' what is that smell? I thought it was my shack heater. No it was the TR4. The top, above the forward most PA tube, was unbelievably hot. Switched off immediately of course. Can't spot anything untoward in the PA compartment so after a complete cool down I took it slowly up to 230v with my usual AC4. Not done a full test but it seems perfectly happy again, heat and smell wise, after 30 minutes at 230v. Might I have ruined anything and, presumably, the fault is in the AC4. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 73 Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net mailto:Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
Hi Damien: Yes, especially when replying to posts, be sure to note where the reply is directed address-wise. Always good to copy the list as well as any direct message so others can follow along with the discussion responses. The scenario Garey outlined is very likely indeed. It kind of was an extension of my comment about it is sometimes hard to tell exactly what was going to happen in all stages of the rig. He went into the schematic a little deeper than I did--All of those guys are very knowledgeable in the Drake line-up. If you plan to do much work at all on these rigs, Garey's CD with annotated pictures and notes is the best available as far as I know. Hopefully, you caught it before the finals or other parts got damaged. BTW, a fan pulling air out of the back of the cage is a great benefit to these rigs to shed some of the heat. That being said, these things will run 24/7 at rated output in tough modes like RTTY and just keep going--they are very robust as long as properly loaded. Cheers Curt On 3/13/2014 11:20 AM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi Curt, Thanks again. I will do everything you suggest. Actually I am puzzled myself as to how the list works nowadays! I did in fact also hear from Mike Bryce (no call sign given), Evan K9SQG and Gary K4OAH who also kindly invited me to join the DrakeRadio group. Never knew it existed but I will certainly join. Regards, Damien G3XER Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 11:07:11 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net To: damienman...@hotmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Hi Damien: Doesn't change my thoughts really. Even tho the relay for Tx would not be engaged, and this keeps the cathodes floating and not grounded, with bias very low or removed from the grids, the tubes will conduct enough to get hot for sure. I think the worst is that the current comes thru the grids so can physically damage the tube internals. Which tubes, finals or driver, or others, is a guess only--perhaps all to some degree. I would just power it up again with a full on AC4 and monitor it closely to be sure nothing has gotten burned or out of tolerance enough to do damage. Especially, confirm that the bias control does what it is supposed to do with adjustment range, verify that the current reading of plate current is close (be careful!) and do an operational check-out. These are very robust rigs but the finals are especially intolerant of unloaded or excessive plate current being that they are TV sweep tubes. Let us know how it goes. Kind of surprised we haven't heard from anyone else on the list. Curt KU8L On 3/13/2014 10:31 AM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi Curt, Thank you for your two replies. I am most grateful for your input. How one can be misled. I certainly thought I was doing the right thing! No sure if it makes any difference to your conclusions but I never switched to transmit I just left the TR4 in Receive mode. 73 Damien Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 08:25:26 -0500 From: cptc...@flash.net mailto:cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now? Thinking about it a little more, since it may or may not have transitioned to TX, the driver or any of the other tubes that are bias controlled can do the same at reduced voltages. Hope there was no long term damage. I once worked on a FT101E that had a defective socket on the grid of one of the finals. As soon as HV came on, with that grid floating, it began cooking. Bias measured OK, all voltages lookedOK, but no bias was getting to the actual tube--duh! I finally figured out what was going on after the tube got so hot, the vacuum sucked a hole thru the side of the tube. Still have that tube BTW...reminder.. Curt KU8L On 3/12/2014 12:18 PM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi all, Still waiting for better weather to put up an antenna but then ready to go with my TR4/AC4 which are fine into a dummy load, or at least they were! Bought a, supposedly good, AC4 as a spare. Decided to power it up gradually with the TR4 as a load. Two hours at 50v, two at 80v, two at 110v, two at 140v. No problems and a fan on the rear behind the PA begins to run at this voltage. Then, ten minutes at 170v and 'wow' what is that smell? I thought it was my shack heater. No it was the TR4. The top, above the forward most PA tube, was unbelievably hot. Switched off immediately of course. Can't spot anything untoward in the PA compartment so after a complete cool down I took it slowly up to 230v with my usual AC4. Not done a full
[Drakelist] What have I done now?
Hi all, Still waiting for better weather to put up an antenna but then ready to go with my TR4/AC4 which are fine into a dummy load, or at least they were! Bought a, supposedly good, AC4 as a spare. Decided to power it up gradually with the TR4 as a load. Two hours at 50v, two at 80v, two at 110v, two at 140v. No problems and a fan on the rear behind the PA begins to run at this voltage. Then, ten minutes at 170v and 'wow' what is that smell? I thought it was my shack heater. No it was the TR4. The top, above the forward most PA tube, was unbelievably hot. Switched off immediately of course. Can't spot anything untoward in the PA compartment so after a complete cool down I took it slowly up to 230v with my usual AC4. Not done a full test but it seems perfectly happy again, heat and smell wise, after 30 minutes at 230v. Might I have ruined anything and, presumably, the fault is in the AC4. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 73 Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What have I done now?
I may get disagreement on this but I would NEVER bring up a PS like this attached to a transmitter. When you do that, the bias is minimal, and ven at low plate voltage, the finals are going to be conducting I suspect. Really hard to tell what is going to be happening. If you want to bring the supply itself up slowly, thats fine...THEN attached the rig and power it up normally. Curt KU8L A line, B line, TR4 TR3, TR7 On 3/12/2014 12:18 PM, Damien Mannix wrote: Hi all, Still waiting for better weather to put up an antenna but then ready to go with my TR4/AC4 which are fine into a dummy load, or at least they were! Bought a, supposedly good, AC4 as a spare. Decided to power it up gradually with the TR4 as a load. Two hours at 50v, two at 80v, two at 110v, two at 140v. No problems and a fan on the rear behind the PA begins to run at this voltage. Then, ten minutes at 170v and 'wow' what is that smell? I thought it was my shack heater. No it was the TR4. The top, above the forward most PA tube, was unbelievably hot. Switched off immediately of course. Can't spot anything untoward in the PA compartment so after a complete cool down I took it slowly up to 230v with my usual AC4. Not done a full test but it seems perfectly happy again, heat and smell wise, after 30 minutes at 230v. Might I have ruined anything and, presumably, the fault is in the AC4. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 73 Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What a find!
I just acquired a TR-4C, AC-4, MN-4, RV-4C, MS-4 and Shure 444. This equipment has Drake tags on it with dates of May 1975 and October 1975. It was used and then stored away when the operator moved to an antenna restricted area. The date on the newspaper wrapping is Oct. 27, 1976. Only used approximately one year. It was apparently used only on 11 meters. I have removed the 11 meter crystals. Still need to two crystals to restore all of 10 meters. The Shure 444 is still packed in the original box. It has stripped leads but has never had a connector installed. The MN-4 is still in its box. There are no manuals. I was told that they were misplaced over the years. I will be taking pictures tomorrow. The TR-4C is immaculate. No scuffs or scratches anywhere. Only negative is a very light coat of dust on the chassis. Still working up a price. Thanks for reading, Glenn, W8AK w...@arrl.net___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Sri to pick up this thread so late, IMHO Collector Condition: 1) there is a difference between original and restored. I'd prefer not restored. 2) practically un scuffed, un chipped paint on the cabinet - no additional holes please. 3) absolutely unblemished - not even finger tip burnishing of the front plate around a knob - now that is hard to find - hence collector interest. 4) off with the cover - a nice shinny chassis - mint would mean no spots of corrosion. 5) no modifications - not even Sherwood modifications. Or if they are there they can be removed, e.g. the common addition of a coax connector on the R-4 series through any of the standard holes on the back. 6) Ideally the rig would work ! :) Well, tube replacement might be needed, but that is it. Otherwise, if capacitors need replacing then Collector Cosmetically, but needs electronic work would be a better description. 7) wishy washy or backlash in the VFO - well that can be adjusted. Restored to original is an honest statement if the paint job really looks like the original of that model, but no polished up chassis blemishes, and not rewired in anyold way. The rating scale in Ron's website is a very useful guide, but the above is my opinion, and I have found a few. Sometimes you have make exceptions. I found a beautiful MN-4C, but someone had used a ballpoint pen to label the SWR/PWR button in out Aside from that it is close to perfect. I just admire it without the bright lights! Kris KM2KM - Original Message - From: Kevin Elliott To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Collector Condition means: The seller wants a lot of money for it. John K5MO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you (Steve Wedge)
In Donnie Garrett's Drake Grading standard which is based on the Collins system does not really mention Collector as a condition. It is interesting to review. It's like used cars. You have to judge them for yourself preferably in person although decent photos are a really big help in judging a radios value. I find a great pleasure in saving something from the trash and keeping it running. Here is the link to the 'Drake Grading Standard' http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakegrading.html -- Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 You must do this work with love or you fail. -- John Muir, from How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
I have used words to that effect but always state the reference scale as the CCA condition metric scale that references SPECIFIC features for different ratings. THings like Original paint, dents, chips, panel scratches, mods, panel lettering, etc all roll into it. Google the Collins Collectors Assoc. Site for the condition scale for more info. Curt On 12/8/2011 2:02 PM, Kevin Elliott wrote: Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? A high price. :o) From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Here is the link to the CCA Grading: http://www.collinsradio.org/html/cca_grading.html Also note the differences in restored grading v. original condition grading. Curt KU8L On 12/8/2011 2:02 PM, Kevin Elliott wrote: Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Kevin: Sorry for the glib answer I gave earlier, but the term collector quality is so subjective as to be completely meaningless without further definition on the part of the seller. Even grading standards are highly subjective, and you'll get four different grades from three different people who apply a standard to a given piece of gear. It's like asking what something is worth. BTW, I stand behind my intial answer! 73, Jim W2BVM From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Hi Jim: Absolutely! It is sooo difficult to quantify condition. Anyone that is considering the purchase of a true collector radio, at an elevated price, like any collectable, would do well to inspect in person or get a known authority to do same--else, take your chances. If you never expect it to be above average, you will rarely be disappointed. There are very very few mint rigs out there that are older than a year. Finally, the worst clause in a description is: .for its age. Like this radio is perfect considering its age...or ..absolutely mint for a radio of this vintageThese are laughable in many cases...I call it the door-stop scale of collectable radio grading Cheers, Curt KU8L On 12/8/2011 2:40 PM, Jim DiMauro wrote: Kevin: Sorry for the glib answer I gave earlier, but the term collector quality is so subjective as to be completely meaningless without further definition on the part of the seller. Even grading standards are highly subjective, and you'll get four different grades from three different people who apply a standard to a given piece of gear. It's like asking what something is worth. BTW, I stand behind my intial answer! 73, Jim W2BVM *From:* Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net *Sent:* Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM *Subject:* [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net mailto:Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Here is a sample of a description I did for a collector Condition rig. It is not perfect as it had to fit in a limited space, but it might give you a few ideas of what to ask and/or what to state in an offer. Even being as objective as I can be, someone would still need to know my reputation for accurate descriptors in order to trust in the sale. BTW, this offer was at about 30% above the market for a claimed-working, as is example. Curt I have worked on several of these TS-700A's over the past couple of years and this is the 2nd nicest one I have seen. Using the Drake/Collins grading standard, this 700A is a VERY GOOD ++ . Nearly un-molested as far as I could see, (Some of the wire wrap posts have been soldered but it was done neatly.) No mods that I can see, and only a couple of very neatly done maintenance-type repairs. You will have to look very carefully to tell it has been serviced. I have checked this rig out thoroughly on the bench side-by-side with an IC-211. The VFO is on frequency and the offsets work. All modes function as they should. Output is as close to spec as I can measure. The knobs and front face are excellent. No scratches or rub-offs. (the band selector has a scuff on the face you can see in the pictures--not a scratch--just a scuff) All the lighting works. The case is very good. There are a couple of scuffed areas on the top. The scuffs are not thru the paint and may be able to be polished out. I have made NO effort to cover, touch-up, or otherwise hide any scuffs or scratches. There are a few minor scratches thru the paint on the bottom of the case. The pictures tell the story. The leather handle is in very good condition. Includes the original 9 pin acc plug and the original AC power cord. (could convert it to DC if you want to). I DO NOT have a mic to include. Will include PDF copies of the Operators and Service Manuals on CD. You can view an album of photos of this rig at: http://picasaweb.google.com/captcurt08/TS700A?feat=directlink I will guarantee your satisfaction with this rig..If you don't think it is as I represent, or it does not meet your expectations, return it to me in the same condition, by the same transport means and I will send you a full refund. I will be happy to answer questions or provide more info. Use eMail. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Kevin, I see loads of replies below your post that I'm going to read after I offer my opinion so as not to taint it. Collector condition, first of all, needs to be considered excellent by the same standards as I've seen used by Collins collectors and on WB4HFN's page. There should be minimum signs of wear and no scratches. On the earlier sets, the copper should be blemish-free and shiny. All controls should operate as new. The original-issue or NOS tubes should be there (Sylvanias and sometimes RCA, IIRC). Obviously, it should perform to as-new specs. There should be absolutely no mods and should have the original cord, washers, screws, etc. As the years go by, the condition will need to be tempered by the realities of the need to replace electrolytic capacitors and other parts that may have a shelf-life (high-value resistors) - even if that life is 50 years. Having the original box and manual helps. Again, I'm talking about a museum piece and not the equivalent of what the tool collectors call a user. While such a piece is a wonder to see, I'm happier to find the upper-end of very good - especially if it's dusty. I make a little rig money fixing them up :) 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! - Original Message - From: Kevin Elliott To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
If you're shelling out more than 2x the typical price, you either need to have hi-res photos of every square inch and all views - with and without covers. Beyond the 2x point, I'd much prefer seeing it in the flesh. I did see a TR-4CW going for nearly a grand on eBay recently. It looked nice, but for that kind of dough, it had better be mint. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! - Original Message - From: Curt To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2011 3:14 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Hi Jim: Absolutely! It is sooo difficult to quantify condition. Anyone that is considering the purchase of a true collector radio, at an elevated price, like any collectable, would do well to inspect in person or get a known authority to do same--else, take your chances. If you never expect it to be above average, you will rarely be disappointed. There are very very few mint rigs out there that are older than a year. Finally, the worst clause in a description is: .for its age. Like this radio is perfect considering its age...or ..absolutely mint for a radio of this vintageThese are laughable in many cases...I call it the door-stop scale of collectable radio grading Cheers, Curt KU8L On 12/8/2011 2:40 PM, Jim DiMauro wrote: Kevin: Sorry for the glib answer I gave earlier, but the term collector quality is so subjective as to be completely meaningless without further definition on the part of the seller. Even grading standards are highly subjective, and you'll get four different grades from three different people who apply a standard to a given piece of gear. It's like asking what something is worth. BTW, I stand behind my intial answer! 73, Jim W2BVM From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 8, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Say a ham has an T4XC transmitter and matching R4C receiver that he states in his ad they are in Collector Condition. So what do you picture in your mind when you read an ad using those words? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you
Curt, that's a perfect example of the type of ad needed for well-above-average stuff. The low-angle, raking light/sunlight also makes sure that the buyer knows that there are some blemishes, so there are no surprises. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! - Original Message - From: Curt To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2011 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What does Collector Condition mean to you Here is a sample of a description I did for a collector Condition rig. It is not perfect as it had to fit in a limited space, but it might give you a few ideas of what to ask and/or what to state in an offer. Even being as objective as I can be, someone would still need to know my reputation for accurate descriptors in order to trust in the sale. BTW, this offer was at about 30% above the market for a claimed-working, as is example. Curt I have worked on several of these TS-700A's over the past couple of years and this is the 2nd nicest one I have seen. Using the Drake/Collins grading standard, this 700A is a VERY GOOD ++ . Nearly un-molested as far as I could see, (Some of the wire wrap posts have been soldered but it was done neatly.) No mods that I can see, and only a couple of very neatly done maintenance-type repairs. You will have to look very carefully to tell it has been serviced. I have checked this rig out thoroughly on the bench side-by-side with an IC-211. The VFO is on frequency and the offsets work. All modes function as they should. Output is as close to spec as I can measure. The knobs and front face are excellent. No scratches or rub-offs. (the band selector has a scuff on the face you can see in the pictures--not a scratch--just a scuff) All the lighting works. The case is very good. There are a couple of scuffed areas on the top. The scuffs are not thru the paint and may be able to be polished out. I have made NO effort to cover, touch-up, or otherwise hide any scuffs or scratches. There are a few minor scratches thru the paint on the bottom of the case. The pictures tell the story. The leather handle is in very good condition. Includes the original 9 pin acc plug and the original AC power cord. (could convert it to DC if you want to). I DO NOT have a mic to include. Will include PDF copies of the Operators and Service Manuals on CD. You can view an album of photos of this rig at: http://picasaweb.google.com/captcurt08/TS700A?feat=directlink I will guarantee your satisfaction with this rig..If you don't think it is as I represent, or it does not meet your expectations, return it to me in the same condition, by the same transport means and I will send you a full refund. I will be happy to answer questions or provide more info. Use eMail. -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end
Yep... Thats the way I lernd it in the 60's two Curt On 12/2/2011 1:23 AM, Jim Shorney wrote: On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 01:00:06 -0800, Dennis Monticelli wrote: The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters. Probably some folks would toss the LO in that grouping also. Basically it refers to what is in front of the first IF. I always considered it to be everything between the antenna input and the mixer, but not including the mixer because it is, well, the mixer. FWIW, Wikipedia agrees with the above definition. 73 -Jim NU0C -- It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - G'Kar, Babylon 5 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end
The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters. Probably some folks would toss the LO in that grouping also. Basically it refers to what is in front of the first IF. Dennis AE6C On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:55 PM, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.comwrote: Exactly what components constitute the front end of the R4A? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end
I've always considered it to be the first stages that are working with the original frequency that was received by the antenna. That would generally agree with the RF amp and input to the first mixer. YMMV Steve, W1ES/4 -Original Message- From: Dennis Monticelli <dennis.montice...@gmail.com>Sent: Dec 1, 2011 4:00 AM To: Neil M Califano <cchange...@yahoo.com>Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters. Probably some folks would toss the LO in that grouping also. Basically it refers to what is in front of the first IF. Dennis AE6C On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:55 PM, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote: Exactly what components constitute the front end of the R4A?___Drakelist mailing listDrakelist@zerobeat.nethttp://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What makes up the front end
On Thu, 1 Dec 2011 01:00:06 -0800, Dennis Monticelli wrote: The RF stage and Mixer plus associated filters. Probably some folks would toss the LO in that grouping also. Basically it refers to what is in front of the first IF. I always considered it to be everything between the antenna input and the mixer, but not including the mixer because it is, well, the mixer. FWIW, Wikipedia agrees with the above definition. 73 -Jim NU0C -- It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - G'Kar, Babylon 5 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What makes up the front end
Exactly what components constitute the front end of the R4A? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What if...
Exactly what will happen if you use a crystal below 11.1 in an R4A? Will it tune anything? Don't ask why. (-: ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What if...
Suspect the world as we know it would end in a huge galactic sink hole... Seriously, a little lower or a lot lower? All the ganged tuned circuits in the pre-sel adjustment run out of (normal) range. Depends on how much messing you want to do I guess. Curt On 10/28/2011 2:52 PM, Neil M Califano wrote: Exactly what will happen if you use a crystal below 11.1 in an R4A? Will it tune anything? Don't ask why. (-: ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Thanks to all for the comments. Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an electric wiper. It wasn't really my intent to get to a museum piece anyway. The B that I intend to keep (the one I just bought Saturday) has its blemishes (a new email forthcoming...) but is basically un-messed-with. My concern is in getting all or most of my money back on the modified one. It is interesting in its own right, but my shack has limited space and so I'm not considering the changes made to the modified B to be significant enough to me to merit keeping it. One thing I will say about the modded B is that the previous owner did check the tubes in it and kept them the rig in good repair in that regard. I plan on hitting the underneath with plenty of Charlie's Soap in an attempt at drawing out some of the oils left in the wafers. Yes, both R-4B's and the new T-4X will be going to the kitchen sink and oven eventually. We've had that debate before ;-) 73, Steve, W1ES -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Sep 6, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Steve, et al, Yes, it does well to be an informed shopper and ask the right questions, request pics, etc. but there is still the issue of the integrity of the seller. That is, if the seller is not honest you might not get honest answers. More than one auction and online seller has used pictures of mint gear when selling basket cases. Even with an honest seller, there is a limit as to how much risk reduction can be accomplished, and it isn't 99%, and attempting to do so can be problematic. When selling off my Collins gear, some of the questions posed to me were... Can you guarantee that the equipment was never in a smoking environment? Can you guarantee that no modifications were ever made to the receiver? Can assure me that no parts were ever replaced? If parts were replaced, can you guarantee they were Collins approved parts? Can you tell me which Collins field upgrades were done and which were not? For those that were done, were they done by a Collins authorized service center? And a few questions about where specific components were in particular locations/orientations. A good percentage of vintage, collectable equipment, has had multiple owners and generally there is little or no documentation as to the history of the equipment. Answering the above questions is virtually impossible, that is, for honest answers. I've been cheated on equipment that was working perfectly according to the seller. After purchase, I addressed the many issues and the seller merely said, Well, that's what the fellow said that sold it to me. I never plugged it in. Unless one inspects and tests a piece of equipment before purchase, there is always some chance that some work will be required to get it into the advertised condition. Hence, price negotiations should keep this in mind. Too, I and others have observed that the HF swap nets afford gear that is priced well below auction prices, with integrity of the sellers typically well above many of the online auction and ad sellers. In contrast, net participants are often well known and a poor reputation spreads quickly. However, trends are that people don't want to wait until a piece of equipment becomes available on the nets and are more than willing to spend top dollar on risky online auctions or purchases. In my first 25 years as a ham I never heard of a deal gone sour. Today, well, times are a changing... Enjoy that Drake gear. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captcurt captc...@flash.net Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 8:33 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Thanks to all for the comments. Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an electric wiper. It wasn't really my intent to get to a museum piece anyway. The B that I intend to keep (the one I just bought Saturday) has its blemishes (a new email forthcoming...) but is basically un-messed-with. My concern is in getting all or most of my money back on the modified one. It is interesting in its own right, but my shack has limited space and so I'm not considering the changes made to the modified B to be significant enough to me to merit keeping it. One thing I will say about the modded B is that the previous owner did check the tubes in it and kept them the rig in good repair in that regard. I plan on hitting the underneath with plenty of Charlie's Soap in an attempt at drawing out some of the oils left in the wafers. Yes, both R-4B's and the new T-4X will be going to the kitchen sink and oven eventually. We've had that debate before ;-) 73, Steve, W1ES -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Sep 6, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
- Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Its always a PITA when someone has installed unknown mods. I really don't know the best technique for the chaissis. My T-4B is reasonably clean and my TR-4 is very nice looking but the R-4B is pretty stained inside. All work fine. When I worked for Hewlett-Packard a million years ago we washed old incoming equipment. That works fine for getting dirt off but the chassis were all aluminum so no corrosion. There is a cleaner called Barkeeper's Friend available at hardawre and groceries that I've had good luck with in cleaning steel and brass materials. There is another brand, Zud, which I think is identical. Both have oxalic acid. The cleaners with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly and tile cleaners seem harder to control. I am mainly worried about getting too much moisture inside IF cans and similar places. I suspect you should be careful of investing too much time and effort in something you want to get rid of. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Exactly what I'm thinking, Richard. Now the PTO knob is stuck as I can't get the screw out. This is starting to look like a quickie clean and get it out the door. I did dig into the underside this evening and made some interesting findings. The PO ran shielded cable all over the place for AF signals. The INJ jack is a low-level audio output. The ANTI VOX seems to be still used for the purpose, but now has shielded cable and is coupled to the speaker output by a 43k resistor. The headphone circuit was completely removed. There are extra capacitors everywhere. The funny thing is, it doesn't really sound all that much better than my stone-stock R-4B. The receiver works very well and only needs a touch-up. It takes gargantuan signal levels to get it to read S9, but it's probably the receive level and AGC that are out, as I can hear 0.1 uV signals on all bands. I'm figuring I'll get my money back... 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 7:16 PM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net; captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? - Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Its always a PITA when someone has installed unknown mods. I really don't know the best technique for the chaissis. My T-4B is reasonably clean and my TR-4 is very nice looking but the R-4B is pretty stained inside. All work fine. When I worked for Hewlett-Packard a million years ago we washed old incoming equipment. That works fine for getting dirt off but the chassis were all aluminum so no corrosion. There is a cleaner called Barkeeper's Friend available at hardawre and groceries that I've had good luck with in cleaning steel and brass materials. There is another brand, Zud, which I think is identical. Both have oxalic acid. The cleaners with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly and tile cleaners seem harder to control. I am mainly worried about getting too much moisture inside IF cans and similar places. I suspect you should be careful of investing too much time and effort in something you want to get rid of. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What would you do?
Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Steve, This one of those questions where you will probably end up split 50/50 and just have to make the decision yourself BUT you asked, so I'll take it on. You have to first decide what your goal is, do you want a pristine collectable that may or may not be worth squat later, OR do you want to operate with a nice sounding, well working old tube rig??? Answer that and you'll know which way to go. If eye candy is critical, by all means sell it well represented to someone that wants one that works and cares less about appearance. I can say this, as I had to decide the very same thing myself and the working rig won out. I've just spent a VERY pleasurable Labor Day afternoon working guys on 20m with my resurected TR4C that is okay, but NOT a shelf queen and NOT a prime example of a TR4C. It DOES work very well, output is nice, and everyone LOVES the audio on transmit. What more can I ask for??? I must admit that the 4 element quad at 73' out back doesn't hurt a bit, hi hi. At the same time, when I set out to find my C Line this time, I demanded the highest serial numbers and wanted pristine examples, so I have both and enjoy both. I have a shack FULL of Drakes, Collins, Heathkits, Johnson, etc, but I prefer some of the ugliest units for rag chewing, hi. Whatever you choose, just enjoy them, Steve. Operate often and use the one that sounds the best. 73, Don, WB5HAK___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Hello Steve, How well a rig functions is more important to me than how it looks. After all, the only people that see my shack besides me are non-hams who think even the beautiful stuff looks like junk. Whether the copper chassis is pristine is less important than how well the AVC functions. I own a T-4X with nice copper, service tag, clean front panel, no bruises. But, it's operation is poorer than my T-4XB which operates perfectly, but has blemishes on the chassis and some worn lettering on the front panel. I would just use the R-4B as-is. I know how frustrating it would be to purchase a rig only to find it to be modified extensively. Have never understood the modification urge, am sure that the designers were way smarter than me, but it is just another aspect of the hobby. I've been fortunate to avoid that with the single exception of a DX-40 whose modifications were all toward improved safety, but still detracted from the appearance of the rig. Sold it for parts with full disclosure, but mainly because it had some operational issues also. Unfortunately, that is probably where you would be with your R-4B. GL 73 Curt - Original Message - From: Steve Wedge To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 8:39 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What would you do? Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?
I visited a powder coating place today in an attempt to match the color of the TR7 to redo my sticky-paint MN2700 cabinet. I spent about a half-hour going over hundreds of color chips without being able to decide which one was the closest. They said that most colors have names, presumably like Saint James Gray for Collins radios, and if they could find out what that was, they may be able to reproduce it. So... Does anybody know what name of the TR7 color is? I told them to hold off until tomorrow (02/10/10) to see if I can find out what it is, otherwise we're probably going to go with flat black. Thanks 73, Tony Stalls, K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?
Tony, Sounds like it might be too late, but have you tried using the oven cleaner method to unsticky the paint? There has been discussion on this list about it working well. TNX es 73, Ron --- On Wed, 2/9/11, David Piper dapi...@cinci.rr.com wrote: From: David Piper dapi...@cinci.rr.com Subject: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color? To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Wednesday, February 9, 2011, 7:18 PM Semigloss is better. I almost painted mine, but john Kreiner sold me a replacement for $15. I think someone is making replacements. David AG8Z - Original Message - From: Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 6:46 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color? I visited a powder coating place today in an attempt to match the color of the TR7 to redo my sticky-paint MN2700 cabinet. I spent about a half-hour going over hundreds of color chips without being able to decide which one was the closest. They said that most colors have names, presumably like Saint James Gray for Collins radios, and if they could find out what that was, they may be able to reproduce it. So... Does anybody know what name of the TR7 color is? I told them to hold off until tomorrow (02/10/10) to see if I can find out what it is, otherwise we're probably going to go with flat black. Thanks 73, Tony Stalls, K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?
I think it is called Drake TR-7 grey. Take the cover to Sherwin Williams and they will match the color for you. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
I've had light dimmers provide a good bunch of gunk. I forget if I was testing NB or DSP units with the one we had. BTW not all light dimmers are bad news. When I changed the one I reference above with a new 3-way dimmer switch, all the noise went away. Package said it had a noise filter in and I thought, yeah sure. Amazingly it really was quiet. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Sun, 2/6/11, kc9...@aol.com kc9...@aol.com wrote: From: kc9...@aol.com kc9...@aol.com Subject: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker? To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 2:00 AM Gang, I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an easy way to test it? No ignition noise here, no electric fences Tried the hair dryer, and an electric drill 73, Lee ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
Lee, Wire up a relay to act like a buzzer. That should generate some good ignition-like sparking at the contacts. Ken, WA2LBI On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 02:00, kc9...@aol.com wrote: Gang, I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an easy way to test it? No ignition noise here, no electric fences Tried the hair dryer, and an electric drill 73, Lee ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
From: kc9...@aol.com kc9...@aol.com Subject: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker? To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 2:00 AM Gang, I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an easy way to test it? No ignition noise here, no electric fences Tried the hair dryer, and an electric drill 73, Lee I've had at least one cell-phone charger wall-wart that generated a great deal of broad-spectrum hash - some sort of switching power supply, I guess? Neil KX2Y ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
Lee - Easiest is to connect a piece of wire to the antenna jack, then drag the other end along a grounded surface. A file is great if you have one, but just scratching along a piece of metal works. Switch the blanker on and off in SLOW AVC and you'll the see the average. Then on FAST AVC you hear and see the meter jump. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com kc9...@aol.com wrote: Gang, I need to test the noise blanker in my R-4CIs there an easy way to test it? No ignition noise here, no electric fences Tried the hair dryer, and an electric drill 73, Lee ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
Anything with brushes, a corless drill, heat gun, etc. Also a solder station with adjustable heat works great. 73, Gary http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker?
OK, It seems like Garey's suggestion is the easiest and it workstake a jumper lead, hook it to the antenna jack. drag it across a large file slowly...it generates nice ignition like noise. The NB does reduce it quite a bit. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Feb 6, 2011 7:36 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker? - Original Message - From: Gary Poland gpola...@cinci.rr.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2011 2:09 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What is he best way to test the N-4B noise blanker? Anything with brushes, a corless drill, heat gun, etc. Also a solder station with adjustable heat works great. 73, Gary Something that works and is simple is to use an ohm meter on its highest setting. This works especially well with older meters that have high voltage batteries for the highest resistance range. Just clip one end of the meter to the antenna connector and tap it with the other lead. That makes a large, high level, click. A series of taps applied to my R-388, which as a slow AVC mod but no blanker, desensitized it running the S-meter to a high level. Although the noise limiter removes the clicking it does not help with the AVC problem. On my Drake R-4B the same thing happens in either fast or slow AVC without the blanker on, that is, the AVC desensitizes the reveiver. The Blanker pretty much eliminates this. While there is still some rise of the S-meter and reduction of background noise, it is very much less than when the blanker is turned off. Note that this is the purpose of the blanker, its not effective on power line hash, which a plain limiter will reduce but, since it comes before the AVC detector, its quite effective in eliminating the desensitizing effect. I never hear ignition noise except in my own car when listening to very weak stations. I guess modern ignition systems has pretty much eliminated it. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What is the difference in 4 series TX's
Friend of mine just got his Drake R-4B back from loan. I will go through it for him and do a alignment. He needs a TX now. So what is the rundown on T-4X, T-4XB, T-4XC What are the real differences? All I have had is a C line. He is into CW as much as SSB. Thanks, 73, Lee, KC9CDT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What is the difference in 4 series TX's
Lee - The T-4X has two four pole filters. As a result the unwanted sideband and carrier suppression are marginal at best under current FCC Purity of Emissions regulations. NOT significant for CW. The filters are 2.3 kHz at -6 dB and 6 kHz at -60 dB. All tubes, except for two transistors in the PTO and one in the BAND oscillator. The T-4XB has two six pole filters. They are 2.4 kHz at -6 dB and 4.08 kHz at -60 dB. Other changes are almost all cosmetic and ergonomic. Black print above 'beltline', 'PTO in Use' indicator behind MAIN TUNING knob skirt. Later models (~ 15000) switched from BJT to FET in PTO. The T-4XC is considerably different in circuit topology, but essentially the same block diagram. Several stages converted from tube to SS. Earlier models passed only the PreMixer signal between RX and TX for transceive, the C Line added the Carrier Oscillator / 3rd IF LO by patching the CO to the receiver in transceive and disabling the 3rd IF LO in the receiver. A few other cosmetic changes, controlling dial lamps to indicate 'PTO in Use', plus Mic and Key jacks, VOX and ANTI-VOX controls, separate CW and SSB Delay controls, all moved from the sides to the back panel. All functionally the same, compatible with R-4(any), AC-3 / AC-4 Power supply. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com kc9...@aol.com wrote: Friend of mine just got his Drake R-4B back from loan. I will go through it for him and do a alignment. He needs a TX now. So what is the rundown on T-4X, T-4XB, T-4XC What are the real differences? All I have had is a C line. He is into CW as much as SSB. Thanks, 73, Lee, KC9CDT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What is this system worth
I have these items that I think I may get rid of since I am running out of space and was curious what they would be worth and yes I know the markets varies by how bad someone wants it. I just need a ballpark price where I will not be giving it away. Drake TR-4 w/ NB AC-4 with Heathkit Store Re-build kit installed MS-4 speaker cabinet RV-4 Remote VFO MN-4 Match Box Conditions on all items is 8.5 to 9 except for the MS-4 which needs the grill repainted is about an 8. Any opinions are welcomed. Would selling them piece by piece be the way to go? Tnx 73 - KG0MN Kevin E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514) Database version: 6.14750 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
Richard - That is an excellent book. All those terms are just fancy names for what we call GAIN. Simply put, it refers to what happens if we put filament, plate, (screen) and grid potentials on a tube, and then wiggle the voltage on the grid, what happens to the current through the tube. Go easy with the DeoxIT, don't spray it around, and preferably put the liquid ON switch contacts and no where else. As for the relay, take a narrow strip of good paper, wet it with DeoxIT, and then put it between a pair of closed relay contacts and draw it out. Hold the relay closed with your finger to do the Normally Open sets. Drake was not always consistent with the Voltage and Resistance charts! There were eight (8) versions of the TR-4, and often they would just change the schematic, but not always the photos and V R charts. So if I use them at all, I use them as guides only. If a reading is way out of what the chart says it should be, check the schematic for YOUR unit. I have seen instances where the cathode of a tube is connected directly to the chassis, and the resistance chart shows 470 ohms. A check of schematics shows that once upon a time, there WAS a cathode resistor in this stage, but not any more in this version! Aside from that, ALL TR-4(any) versions had 20 tubes.! VR20 is the 0A2, kinda out of order on the schematics. Nah, I don't know of anyone who can determine a bad tube just by looking... :-) Unless the glass is broken or there are metal parts rattling around inside! Generally speaking, if a tube gets hot when turned on, it's working. It may not be great, but it's probably working. Aside from an open filament, the main failures in tubes (unless broken glass or metal pieces are loose!) are the cathode coating has had all the electrons wrung out of it, or the glass seals (where pins go through the glass) have leaked allowing air inside. Generally speaking, Drake designed their circuits to work over a wide range of tube characteristics, and good quality tubes were originally manufactured with characteristics very close to specifications. So the equipment will continue to work, often within specifications, over a wide range of tube degradation. One exception, of course, is the 6JB6 PA tubes. They are being pushed to their limit, and DO degrade with use. IF you ALWAYS keep the plate current dipped, with only a second or two of off resonance operation, these tubes will last for years. My daily driver B-Line has tubes that are over ten years old, and they still have full output. I can change bands in less than 5-10 seconds with muscle memory! :-) What kills finals are the guys that key the transmitter, then look for their glasses so they can see the meter AND find the manual, and THEN dip the PLATE. The very characteristic of these tubes that made them desirable in the first place, i.e., LARGE plate current with low voltages, is what kills them IF operated off resonance. One tube can draw as much as 1 AMP of current off resonance, and since if the plate circuit is not at resonance, all that POWER has to be dissipated by the plate, which very quickly becomes red, then yellow, then white hot, just before the glass melts enough to suck a hole in it! Very quickly, defined as _seconds_. So don't sweat it so much. If all the tubes get hot when turned on, they're probably good enough to work. The only tube I've seen that was DEAD operationally but still hot, was a few 6JB6s that probably had all their cathode material evaporated, melted or blown off.! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: Gary, I don't think I'm the only one that's gonna hang onto this for future reference! One of the things I have read is Getting The Most Out Of Vacuum Tubes by Robert B. Tomer. So I have a reference for what you are saying regarding testing in circuit, re-tubing ect. I know that if you read one thing on Emission testing, you have read everything about it. I have spent considerable time covering transconductance, mutual conductance, Dynamic conductance and maybe others. I am going to start cleaning my TR-4 after the eagle flies this week. This is a new to me radio and it needs to be cleaned and aligned. After I clean it with deoxit I want to check the tubes. (I should probably be more concerned with cleaning the relay but that will happen on it's own.) I can't afford to buy a set of tubes to try and see what will happen with tube substitution after cleaning it. This sorta leads to something else that I don't understand. The resistance chart for the tubes goes from V-1 - V20. The schematic shows tubes V-19A and V-19b but not a V-20. Just something I noticed in preparing to do this. I'm sure there are those here who can look at a tube and win a bet as to weather or not it is good. They might want to over look my posts. I
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
Richard - This might be due to relay K2 contacts. This is the relay that shifts the Carrier Oscillator to within the LSB filter passband for CW operation. Be worthwhile to clean those contacts with a little DeoxIT soaked paper strip. ** This may be one of those, shoulda' sent it in private messages :-) ** 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: Thanks to all for the advice and expertise. Anyone who has looked at tube testers know that the one to get is high dollar. You would think that for the amount the design gets that it would also repair a bad or questionable tube. :-) Dollar for dollar I might be ahead on this just to buy a new set of tube types for my TR-4 and go from there. I feel relatively curtain I have a hinky tube because after the set warms up there is often a change in audio that goes from a low pitch to high pitch or vise a versa sound on my back ground noise. If I change over to X-CW and back the audio returns to normal. Maybe a good cleaning will help. I'll find out. Thanks again, Richard Palmer ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
I have had good luck with a Jackson 648A tester. It is not an expensive Hickok mutual conductance tester. It uses a Dynamic testing circuit and there is much debate if that is really better than simple emission testing. But it does have a test I have found useful. It has a “Life Line Indicator” test which reduces the filament voltage. It sounds like a gimmick but it seems to work for me. Just last month I had a weak 12AX7 in my T-4XC. It tested good in the regular test, but it was bad in the life test. I replaced the tube and now I don’t have to turn the gain so high to tune up. That test has also worked for me with other tubes. That life test has also been useful for 6JB6’s. It has found soft tubes with the life test that otherwise have tested good. Whether it finds all soft tubes is a question, but it has proven to be a good screener by finding tubes for me that have tested to be soft in my T-4XC (I had a box of unknown tubes). But swapping tubes is by far the best test but at least I can eliminate the no chance ones. My Jackson 648A did not come with the 9-pin NOVAR socket needed for 6JB6’s. I added it myself and it was not hard to do using the schematic. One advantage for the Jackson 648 is that Vacuum Tubes Inc. publishes their own manual for it (I have no connection to this company except as a customer). There is an excellent discussion of tube testers at http://www.tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html It is written from an audiophile’s point of view, the only other group still using tubes. 73, Bob WW3QB --- On Sat, 1/30/10, Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net wrote: From: Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net Subject: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester? To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Saturday, January 30, 2010, 9:03 PM I hope this is not off topic. With the use of vintage being used for all Drakes and tube testers, many from the 1940's and before, up to the last ones made, it has become impossible for me to determine what will service my early TR-4. I have spent hours and hours looking up tube testers by type, make and model. I have spent hours squinting at pictures trying to count socket pins. I am burnt out and am looking for help in finding just where to look. I have no idea if post WWII testers even test 9 pins, or if all 7 pins are of the same size. Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 08:18:24 -0800 (PST), Robert Ladden wrote: I have had good luck with a Jackson 648A tester. It is not an expensive Hickok mutual conductance tester. It uses a Dynamic testing circuit and there is much debate if that is really better than simple emission testing. But it does have a test I have found useful. I use a Jackson 658A. It is a late model, with the adapter that has sockets for most of the tube types used in the 60s and 70s. It supports most of the tube types, although I did have to fudge up a test for the 8950 recently. Not hard to do if there is a roughly equivalent type you can use as a reference. The life test is useful, as you say. Garey's comments on tube testers are accurate and well thought out. One thing that a good tester WILL do for you is help sort out shorted or gassy tubes, which could potentially cause damage when plugged in to a radio. They will also, of course, tell you if a tube is just dead, and can somtimes help find an intermittent tube (but you can also do that in the radio). 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://radiojim(dot)exofire(dot)net http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
Bob - That's a very good site reference. Lots of good information there. The Life Test typically just reduces the filament voltage on the tube. This indicates whether the cathode is straining to deliver enough electrons, (wearing out,) or has life left! If the meter indications stays steady or only drops slightly, then the tube has considerable life left, at least from an emission standpoint. If the meter drops a lot, not good. You can perform a similar test on any tube tester, merely switch the filament voltage DOWN one step, i.e., from 6.3 to 5 volts. A good tube will drop only a few divisions, while a weak one will drop 5 to 10 or more divisions. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Robert Ladden wrote: I have had good luck with a Jackson 648A tester. It is not an expensive Hickok mutual conductance tester. It uses a Dynamic testing circuit and there is much debate if that is really better than simple emission testing. But it does have a test I have found useful. It has a “Life Line Indicator” test which reduces the filament voltage. It sounds like a gimmick but it seems to work for me. Just last month I had a weak 12AX7 in my T-4XC. It tested good in the regular test, but it was bad in the life test. I replaced the tube and now I don’t have to turn the gain so high to tune up. That test has also worked for me with other tubes. That life test has also been useful for 6JB6’s. It has found soft tubes with the life test that otherwise have tested good. Whether it finds all soft tubes is a question, but it has proven to be a good screener by finding tubes for me that have tested to be soft in my T-4XC (I had a box of unknown tubes). But swapping tubes is by far the best test but at least I can eliminate the no chance ones. My Jackson 648A did not come with the 9-pin NOVAR socket needed for 6JB6’s. I added it myself and it was not hard to do using the schematic. One advantage for the Jackson 648 is that Vacuum Tubes Inc. publishes their own manual for it (I have no connection to this company except as a customer). There is an excellent discussion of tube testers at http://www.tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html It is written from an audiophile’s point of view, the only other group still using tubes. 73, Bob WW3QB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
-I have a Hickock that my bookeeper gave me 35 years ago (her husband liberated it from the phone co,) Great unit...still works good 73 Bud WØHG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
I'll second the Jackson 648. I have an older and a later model 648A. Did not know about Vacuum Tube inc doc. It looks like I may have most of the factory data (manuals, test charts, updates) but for the price I think I'll get a copy. Thanks Bob!!! It's not perfect, but is great for finding known bad apples. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Sun, 1/31/10, Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester? To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net, Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 11:18 AM I have had good luck with a Jackson 648A tester. It is not an expensive Hickok mutual conductance tester. It uses a Dynamic testing circuit and there is much debate if that is really better than simple emission testing. But it does have a test I have found useful. It has a “Life Line Indicator” test which reduces the filament voltage. It sounds like a gimmick but it seems to work for me. Just last month I had a weak 12AX7 in my T-4XC. It tested good in the regular test, but it was bad in the life test. I replaced the tube and now I don’t have to turn the gain so high to tune up. That test has also worked for me with other tubes. That life test has also been useful for 6JB6’s. It has found soft tubes with the life test that otherwise have tested good. Whether it finds all soft tubes is a question, but it has proven to be a good screener by finding tubes for me that have tested to be soft in my T-4XC (I had a box of unknown tubes). But swapping tubes is by far the best test but at least I can eliminate the no chance ones. My Jackson 648A did not come with the 9-pin NOVAR socket needed for 6JB6’s. I added it myself and it was not hard to do using the schematic. One advantage for the Jackson 648 is that Vacuum Tubes Inc. publishes their own manual for it (I have no connection to this company except as a customer). There is an excellent discussion of tube testers at http://www.tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html It is written from an audiophile’s point of view, the only other group still using tubes. 73, Bob WW3QB --- On Sat, 1/30/10, Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net wrote: From: Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net Subject: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester? To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Saturday, January 30, 2010, 9:03 PM I hope this is not off topic. With the use of vintage being used for all Drakes and tube testers, many from the 1940's and before, up to the last ones made, it has become impossible for me to determine what will service my early TR-4. I have spent hours and hours looking up tube testers by type, make and model. I have spent hours squinting at pictures trying to count socket pins. I am burnt out and am looking for help in finding just where to look. I have no idea if post WWII testers even test 9 pins, or if all 7 pins are of the same size. Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
That got me wondering how much the life test drops the filament voltage. I put a 6JB6A in my tester and measured the filament voltage. The tester's normal 6.3V was really 6.2V. The life test dropped it to 5.6V. On a 12AX7 it dropped from 12.7V to 11.6V. So it only drops the voltage about 9%. 73, Bob WW3QB --- On Sun, 1/31/10, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote: From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester? To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 11:41 AM Bob - That's a very good site reference. Lots of good information there. The Life Test typically just reduces the filament voltage on the tube. This indicates whether the cathode is straining to deliver enough electrons, (wearing out,) or has life left! If the meter indications stays steady or only drops slightly, then the tube has considerable life left, at least from an emission standpoint. If the meter drops a lot, not good. You can perform a similar test on any tube tester, merely switch the filament voltage DOWN one step, i.e., from 6.3 to 5 volts. A good tube will drop only a few divisions, while a weak one will drop 5 to 10 or more divisions. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
Yep, just about one step on the filament select switch! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Robert Ladden wrote: That got me wondering how much the life test drops the filament voltage. I put a 6JB6A in my tester and measured the filament voltage. The tester's normal 6.3V was really 6.2V. The life test dropped it to 5.6V. On a 12AX7 it dropped from 12.7V to 11.6V. So it only drops the voltage about 9%. 73, Bob WW3QB --- On Sun, 1/31/10, Garey Barrellk4...@mindspring.com wrote: From: Garey Barrellk4...@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester? To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 11:41 AM Bob - That's a very good site reference. Lots of good information there. The Life Test typically just reduces the filament voltage on the tube. This indicates whether the cathode is straining to deliver enough electrons, (wearing out,) or has life left! If the meter indications stays steady or only drops slightly, then the tube has considerable life left, at least from an emission standpoint. If the meter drops a lot, not good. You can perform a similar test on any tube tester, merely switch the filament voltage DOWN one step, i.e., from 6.3 to 5 volts. A good tube will drop only a few divisions, while a weak one will drop 5 to 10 or more divisions. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
I hope this is not off topic. With the use of vintage being used for all Drakes and tube testers, many from the 1940's and before, up to the last ones made, it has become impossible for me to determine what will service my early TR-4. I have spent hours and hours looking up tube testers by type, make and model. I have spent hours squinting at pictures trying to count socket pins. I am burnt out and am looking for help in finding just where to look. I have no idea if post WWII testers even test 9 pins, or if all 7 pins are of the same size. Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
Richard - First, there are two major types of tube testers. The least expensive is the Emission type which merely applies power to the filament and plate of a tube and measures the current on a Good-?-Bad meter scale. They are slightly better than using an ohmmeter on the filament pins to see if the filament is intact! The more expensive type, the Mutual Conductance type, applies filament and plate voltage and then applies a known AC signal to the grid to measure the actual gain of the tube. The Emission tester will tell you if the cathode is still emitting electrons, and the Mutual Conductance tester will tell you how the tube amplifies _at the single test point and level_ chosen by the tester manufacturer. Neither tells you much of anything about operation at RF. Typically only the latest tube testers will test the Compactron type of tubes (6JB6) without some sort of adapter. One of the better tube testers available is the military TV-7/U family. It doesn't have sockets to test the Compactrons, but someone has made a set of adapters for it to allow it to test the common sweep tubes, like the 6JB6. All the rest of the tubes in the Drake gear are 7 and 9 pin miniature types, which just about any tester made after about 1940 will test. These tubes are all the same size pins and pin circle. All that said, a tube tester isn't all that much help anyway. The only REAL test for a tube is in the circuit you want it to work in. Your best approach to maintaining your Drake gear is to get a couple of each tube type, test them by plugging into a working radio and if they work, put them in a safe place! This is especially true for 6JB6 tubes used at RF frequencies. These tubes were designed for use as horizontal output tubes for TV sets. They operated at almost 16 kHz in that service!! Sylvania, in the early 60's, characterized (tested) some of their TV Sweep tubes such as the 6JB6 for linear amplifier service from 2-30 MHz. The resulting data was used by Drake and several other Amateur equipment makers to develop transmitters that would run considerably more power than those using the 6146, and do it at a lower plate voltage! Add that the sweep tubes were about 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of the 6146, and that a lower plate voltage could be used for higher power output and it was a done deal. The pertinent characteristic was a high perveance, or high currents at lower plate voltages. They were designed to operate 24/7, inside a TV set with 25 other tubes and keep working, so they were able to serve in CW or SSB service at considerably higher power levels than their published specifications.. The catch here is that since the tube was designed to operate at 16 kHz, NOT 30 MHz, not all brands of the same tube type were interchangeable. Operation at 30 MHz requires considerably more attention to internal tube structure such as lead lengths, interelement capacitance, etc. The result was that one manufacturer might make a 6JB6 with considerably higher reactances that worked just fine at 16 kHz, but would make it impossible to neutralize in an HF transmitter without changes in the neutralization circuitry. Add the fact the some of the smaller, even well known companies that put their name on a tube may well have had that tube made by more than one manufacturer, and it gets difficult to say which tubes will work in a T-4X and those that won't. Further complicating the situation is that the RF gain of a tube falls off with decreasing emission, and falls off first at the higher frequencies. 6JB6 tubes in T-4X service will fall off first on 10M, then 15, then 20, then ... Most will continue to put out SOME power on 80 and 40M after 10M output is just about zero. My experience has shown that Sylvania, Zenith, RCA and GE are the ONLY brands of 6JB6 that I have found to work _consistently_. Raytheon, Westinghouse, Standard, and most others are potential trouble. Some work, some don't, depending upon who _really_ made them. By the way, it is NOT a good idea to replace ALL the tubes in a radio at once. Retubing is somehow seen as similar to replacing all your tires. This is not only wasteful of a finite source of vacuum tubes, but can turn a working radio into one that doesn't! Even New Old Stock tubes, all manufactured over 30 years ago, are not all good. So get a few spares for each type, _check them in a currently working radio_, and if they are good put them in your tube stash for a rainy day. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: I hope this is not off topic. With the use of vintage being used for all Drakes and tube testers, many from the 1940's and before, up to the last ones made, it has become impossible for me to determine what will service my early TR-4. I have spent hours and hours looking up tube testers by type, make and
[Drakelist] What should I stock as spares for my 2-C?
Oh wowie, I'm a Drake owner again! I can't believe I went without. The withdrawal!!! I started with a 2-C my dad bought for me, used. First bad decision - sold it and the matching 2-NT so I could buy my first solid state rig. That Kenwood TS-120S never sounded right - that Drake had me spoiled. Soon as I could, I upgraded to B-line twins and that R-4B and T-4XB remain the rigs I kept the longest - 25 years. This time the switch to solid state went OK - the Kenwood TS-850SAT is, indeed, a high performance rig, unlike the '120. But I longed for the warm sound of LC filter skirts and the pure feel of casual that waiting for tubes to warm up engenders. I found my 2-C at the home of a local ham who had too many rigs per his XYL and after the briefest of all negotiations, it's mine - with the matching 2-CQ. But now, it's old...and I want to make sure I have a small stock of the most likely items to need. In 25 years of the B-line, I never had to replace a tube. Will I have the same experience with this nearly 40 year old 2-C? Or should I gather up some NOS tubes while they're still available? Thanks and 73, Dave W8NF ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What should I stock as spares for my 2-C?
Dave, You will likely get a BUNCH of replies, but I think I would get a spare set for future use. There is a good source for good tubes, Frank Krize, K5SVC, I believe is his call. He has an Ebay store, but just google his name and your will find him. He has a lot of NOS tubes, some are the good JAN variety and makes up kits for different rigs. Also, I recommend www.hayseedhamfest.com as Tom has the multiple capacitors made up for the 2B and 2C, and has nice kits for it. Those caps are getting very old, and can take out unobtainable components easily. Just my .02 worth, but glad you are back in the fold, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK - Original Message - From: Dave Haupt w...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 5:04 PM Subject: [Drakelist] What should I stock as spares for my 2-C? Oh wowie, I'm a Drake owner again! I can't believe I went without. The withdrawal!!! I started with a 2-C my dad bought for me, used. First bad decision - sold it and the matching 2-NT so I could buy my first solid state rig. That Kenwood TS-120S never sounded right - that Drake had me spoiled. Soon as I could, I upgraded to B-line twins and that R-4B and T-4XB remain the rigs I kept the longest - 25 years. This time the switch to solid state went OK - the Kenwood TS-850SAT is, indeed, a high performance rig, unlike the '120. But I longed for the warm sound of LC filter skirts and the pure feel of casual that waiting for tubes to warm up engenders. I found my 2-C at the home of a local ham who had too many rigs per his XYL and after the briefest of all negotiations, it's mine - with the matching 2-CQ. But now, it's old...and I want to make sure I have a small stock of the most likely items to need. In 25 years of the B-line, I never had to replace a tube. Will I have the same experience with this nearly 40 year old 2-C? Or should I gather up some NOS tubes while they're still available? Thanks and 73, Dave W8NF ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.698 / Virus Database: 270.14.38/2467 - Release Date: 10/29/09 02:38:00 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week...
EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Good Afternoon,All, If you want to have a peak at what may surely prove to be ...the smile of the day for many of you, please click onto the following web site... http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/?saved=1 Now, after having seen my handiwork therein --- and before you go laughing out TOO loudly! --- be advised that there IS method to my madness, as I shall endaevour to explain. Someone, sometime ago on this Reflector, proposed building an outboard accessory crystal selector for use with the R-4 series of receiver, in order to enhance its frequency agility: after giving this notion some thought here, I came to the conclusion that the idea certainly had merit. An extra peripheral switching arrangement like this would dramatically reduce the wear tear of the normal crystal select switch on the R-4. Additionally --- a HUGE plus, IMHO --- an add-on switch would afford one the luxury of having far more than just the usual ten positions that come stock with the Drake... The more crystals, the more the SWL'ing possibilities with the rig...! A quick audit of the junque box here revealed that I had a near bag full of HC-6/U crystal sockets, half of an aluminum handy case, as well as a 2-pole / SIXTEEN-position(!) rotary switch (really two separate single-pole / 16-throw wafers, mounted on a single shaft). Combined with a single-pole / double-throw toggle switch, I had all I needed for the addition / inclusion of an outboard extra THIRTY- TWO crystals for use with my venerable R-4 receiver. I use low-C RG-62 coaxial cable to connect the switch assembly to crystal socket #1 at the back of the rig; the plug at the end of this cable is little more than the salvaged innards of a defunct HC-6/U crystal. Best of all, the doggone thing works --- and it works quite well (doesn't look too bad mounted alongside the rig, too, IMHO!). I've been soliciting Hams for any all excess unused HC-6/U crystals that they might have available for swapping purposes, and have had a very nice response from a LOT of helpful Amateurs. Of course, hardly any of the frequencies that I've collected here end in 0.6, or 0.1, as the R-4 prefers to see --- but this is little hardship, considering that I can at least listen to different parts of the spectrum whilst working on other things in the shack, that I might otherwise not have been able to do before. It's not perfect, but neither was it meant to be. I continue to be on the look-out for any all potential new additions to the rock collection, such that I might eventually have near-complete coverage of all of the popular SWL BC bands, as well as other segments of HF spectrum that are of interest. I have many crystals that are excess to my needs here in this regard, and I'd be more than happy to engage in a possible trade with you, if such a swap might be of mutual benefit...just let me know what you have there, and what you're looking for, with my thanks in advance...! ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week...
Mike Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- That is one heck of a crystal pack! Nice work. 73 de W4DLMike Pompano Beach, FL USA - Original Message - From: EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 1:45 PM Subject: [drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week... EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Good Afternoon,All, If you want to have a peak at what may surely prove to be ...the smile of the day for many of you, please click onto the following web site... http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/?saved=1 Now, after having seen my handiwork therein --- and before you go laughing out TOO loudly! --- be advised that there IS method to my madness, as I shall endaevour to explain. Someone, sometime ago on this Reflector, proposed building an outboard accessory crystal selector for use with the R-4 series of receiver, in order to enhance its frequency agility: after giving this notion some thought here, I came to the conclusion that the idea certainly had merit. An extra peripheral switching arrangement like this would dramatically reduce the wear tear of the normal crystal select switch on the R-4. Additionally --- a HUGE plus, IMHO --- an add-on switch would afford one the luxury of having far more than just the usual ten positions that come stock with the Drake... The more crystals, the more the SWL'ing possibilities with the rig...! A quick audit of the junque box here revealed that I had a near bag full of HC-6/U crystal sockets, half of an aluminum handy case, as well as a 2-pole / SIXTEEN-position(!) rotary switch (really two separate single-pole / 16-throw wafers, mounted on a single shaft). Combined with a single-pole / double-throw toggle switch, I had all I needed for the addition / inclusion of an outboard extra THIRTY- TWO crystals for use with my venerable R-4 receiver. I use low-C RG-62 coaxial cable to connect the switch assembly to crystal socket #1 at the back of the rig; the plug at the end of this cable is little more than the salvaged innards of a defunct HC-6/U crystal. Best of all, the doggone thing works --- and it works quite well (doesn't look too bad mounted alongside the rig, too, IMHO!). I've been soliciting Hams for any all excess unused HC-6/U crystals that they might have available for swapping purposes, and have had a very nice response from a LOT of helpful Amateurs. Of course, hardly any of the frequencies that I've collected here end in 0.6, or 0.1, as the R-4 prefers to see --- but this is little hardship, considering that I can at least listen to different parts of the spectrum whilst working on other things in the shack, that I might otherwise not have been able to do before. It's not perfect, but neither was it meant to be. I continue to be on the look-out for any all potential new additions to the rock collection, such that I might eventually have near-complete coverage of all of the popular SWL BC bands, as well as other segments of HF spectrum that are of interest. I have many crystals that are excess to my needs here in this regard, and I'd be more than happy to engage in a possible trade with you, if such a swap might be of mutual benefit...just let me know what you have there, and what you're looking for, with my thanks in advance...! ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week...
EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Mike, Many thanks for the FB note... I can assure you of one thing: it WAS tedious work! Thirty-two sockets equals 96 holes...I get tired just thinking about it, Hi Hi! ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ * - Original Message - From: Mike Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 5:12 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week... Mike Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- That is one heck of a crystal pack! Nice work. 73 de W4DLMike Pompano Beach, FL USA - Original Message - From: EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 1:45 PM Subject: [drakelist] What I Did With My Free Time Last Week... EP Swynar [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Good Afternoon,All, If you want to have a peak at what may surely prove to be ...the smile of the day for many of you, please click onto the following web site... http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/?saved=1 Now, after having seen my handiwork therein --- and before you go laughing out TOO loudly! --- be advised that there IS method to my madness, as I shall endaevour to explain. Someone, sometime ago on this Reflector, proposed building an outboard accessory crystal selector for use with the R-4 series of receiver, in order to enhance its frequency agility: after giving this notion some thought here, I came to the conclusion that the idea certainly had merit. An extra peripheral switching arrangement like this would dramatically reduce the wear tear of the normal crystal select switch on the R-4. Additionally --- a HUGE plus, IMHO --- an add-on switch would afford one the luxury of having far more than just the usual ten positions that come stock with the Drake... The more crystals, the more the SWL'ing possibilities with the rig...! A quick audit of the junque box here revealed that I had a near bag full of HC-6/U crystal sockets, half of an aluminum handy case, as well as a 2-pole / SIXTEEN-position(!) rotary switch (really two separate single-pole / 16-throw wafers, mounted on a single shaft). Combined with a single-pole / double-throw toggle switch, I had all I needed for the addition / inclusion of an outboard extra THIRTY- TWO crystals for use with my venerable R-4 receiver. I use low-C RG-62 coaxial cable to connect the switch assembly to crystal socket #1 at the back of the rig; the plug at the end of this cable is little more than the salvaged innards of a defunct HC-6/U crystal. Best of all, the doggone thing works --- and it works quite well (doesn't look too bad mounted alongside the rig, too, IMHO!). I've been soliciting Hams for any all excess unused HC-6/U crystals that they might have available for swapping purposes, and have had a very nice response from a LOT of helpful Amateurs. Of course, hardly any of the frequencies that I've collected here end in 0.6, or 0.1, as the R-4 prefers to see --- but this is little hardship, considering that I can at least listen to different parts of the spectrum whilst working on other things in the shack, that I might otherwise not have been able to do before. It's not perfect, but neither was it meant to be. I continue to be on the look-out for any all potential new additions to the rock collection, such that I might eventually have near-complete coverage of all of the popular SWL BC bands, as well as other segments of HF spectrum that are of interest. I have many crystals that are excess to my needs here in this regard, and I'd be more than happy to engage in a possible trade with you, if such a swap might be of mutual benefit...just let me know what you have there, and what you're looking for, with my thanks in advance...! ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
Re: [drakelist] what time (and zone) is the Drake net today?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] What parts to have handy
Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Folks, I have some parts in my Drake first aid kit, but am wondering what other feel might be good to have on hand for my TR7 and B twins. I have several sets of finals [some still from Drake :-)], some LEDs for the DR7, and a few other misc part. So what parts do you think I should try to have on hand? Maybe pin diodes (how many?), relays? Let me (and the group) know what you think goes out the most or will have issues and maybe why. I may not personally fix the problem, but without parts, no one will be able to keep my loved ones running. 73, Ron WD8SBB -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] What parts to have handy
Ron: You've actually hit upon the three items I would keep on hand for my TR7, the relay, the finals and spare seven segment displays (or a spare DR7). I'm with you in wanting to make sure I had backups to keep my rig running, so I went out and purchased a very dirty but functional TR7 for a very reasonable price, just so I have a spare of everything. The only thing I've had to replace after owning a TR7 since 1982 was the speaker (the cone "developed" a tear, though I can't fathom how or why) and the blue filters (which I'm really thinking about removing and going the blue LED route next time). 73 Lee WB6SSW
Re: [drakelist] What parts to have handy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- A TR relay is always a good idea... -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] What year was my C-line made?
Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I refurbished a C-line a little while ago. Now I wish to try to figure when they were made. I have a parts list in the R4C manual dated April 1975. For the T4XC, I have two tags dated 1/6/76 and 1/4/77. The tag dated 1976 is a square red tag -- is it the QC tag? All units were owned by a T. Keller. The Serial #'s are 26595 (T4XC) and 25953 (R4C) and 1316 (C4). My best guess is mid-1976. What do you think? 73, Joe/N4ARI -- On Behalf of Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] What year was my C-line made?
Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 11:23:35 -0500, Joe Roth wrote: Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I refurbished a C-line a little while ago. Now I wish to try to figure when they were made. Look here: http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeSerialDatabase.htm -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com nu0c (at) amsat.org Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- On Behalf of Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] What year was my C-line made?
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Joe - The original QC tags were card stock with a string attachment. Your estimate is close, probably late 1976. Take a look at the serial number database at http://www89405.temp.w1.com/DrakeSerialDatabase.htm The two tags for the T-4XC are probably for the transmitter and the power supply. The last schematic revision for the R-4C was at serial number 25900, and was dated 11/01/76. The last transmitter schematic was dated 10/07/76 and was for s/n 26670 and up. The C-4 was probably one of the last made. The s/n database has nothing even close to that high a number. If it was purchased with the other two, it would make a nice data point for the database. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez/ Joe Roth wrote: Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I refurbished a C-line a little while ago. Now I wish to try to figure when they were made. I have a parts list in the R4C manual dated April 1975. For the T4XC, I have two tags dated 1/6/76 and 1/4/77. The tag dated 1976 is a square red tag -- is it the QC tag? All units were owned by a T. Keller. The Serial #'s are 26595 (T4XC) and 25953 (R4C) and 1316 (C4). My best guess is mid-1976. What do you think? 73, Joe/N4ARI -- On Behalf of Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] What rid did the Drake 7075 mic go with?
Mahlon Haunschild [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- That's easy: late-production TR-4C(w)s and C-lines. It's just a Turner +3 sans preamp and fitted with a 3/16 plug. When I was a part of the W0EEE road trip to buy a new C-line from Midcom Electronics in St Louis MO in the fall of 1977, we also bought a 7075 because that was the microphone sold by Drake at that time. regards, Mahlon - K4OQ john wrote: Any ideas? John K5MO -- On Behalf of Mahlon Haunschild [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] What to do with all this stuff? Final Posting
Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- First, I want to thank Thom Lacosta for his excellent remailer. At this point I've sold the vast majority of the Drake stuff, there are just a few items left. This is my last posting; whatever doesn't sell here in the next week or two will go to somewhere else. Some items have had their price reduced. Pictures upon request via email. Shipping/insurance additional. Terms are pre-pay via check (takes time to clear), credit card, paypal, bank transfer, money order. No out-of-USA checks, please. 30 day absolute satisfaction guarantee, full refund less shipping if returned undamaged. Equipment: RV-75 digital vfo, $775 L4-B linear amp with power supply, 10mtrs included, full output, $825 MINT CONDITION! TR-5 Excellent (sorry, no NB), $725 PS-75 power supply, $125 T4X-C transmitter, latest version, full output, $175 B1000 Balun, $125 6JB6 Matched Pairs (8), NOS, $45 per pair Spares, parts, etc, make offer: TR-6 crystal, 50150 T4X-C mic plugs, 7 (some right angle) R4-C IF cans, 2, unknown 3 SL-500 filters SL-300 filter SL-2300 filter 115 volt boxer fans, similar to FA-7, most new R4-C filter, 5045, 1.5khz PS-7 handle, 2 Clear lexan for TR-5 front panel, 3, new TR-5 front panel, near new L7-wiring harness with pushbutton switches (sorry, no power switch) Assorted boards for TR-5 TR-7 audio board TR-7 translator board TR-5 RIT board Misc TR-7 series cabinets, some repainted. BTW: lots of this stuff is unobtanium now. Neil, K1VY (603) 465-2788 -- On Behalf of Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] What to do with all this stuff?, Here's the list (approx)
Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I've had enough interest in individual items to make it worth my while to post prices. All of the listed equipment is in pristine, near new condition, all fully operational. This is my core collection, the result of years of culling and improving. This is NOT your average garage sale stuff! Pictures upon request via email. Shipping/insurance additional. Terms are pre-pay via check (takes time to clear), credit card, paypal, bank transfer, money order. No out-of-USA checks, please. 30 day absolute satisfaction guarantee, full refund less shipping if returned undamaged. Equipment: WH-7 hf wattmeter, $90 MS-7 speakers, 2, $75ea PS-7 power supplies, 3, $115 ea RV-7 remote vfos, 2, $155 ea W-4 hf wattmeter, $65 RV-75 digital vfo, $775 MN-2000 antenna tuner, $150 MN-2700 antenna tuner, with B1000 balun, $350 MS-4 speaker, $65 L4-B linear amp with power supply, 10mtrs included, full output, $925 TR-7 ABSOLUTELY LOADED, $775 TR-5 ABSOLUTELY LOADED, $875 PS-75 power supply, $125 C-line: $825 if you buy the pair plus speaker/power supply R4-C ABSOLUTELY LOADED, stock, latest version, $575 T4X-C transmitter, latest version, $175 MS-4 with AC-4 combo, $130 AC-4 Power Supply, $75 Home-Made digital synthesizer, similar in function to RV-75, $245 VERY NICE! B1000 Balun, $125 6JB6 Matched Pairs (8), NOS, $55 per pair Spares, parts, etc, make offer: C-line xtals, assorted, approx 50 TR-7 replacement LED display (upper and lower) TR-6 crystal, 50150 T4X-C mic plugs, 7 (some right angle) R4-C IF cans, 2, unknown C-line tuning knob trim plates, 3 3 SL-500 filters SL-300 filter SL-2300 filter Misc power connectors 4-pin accessory power connector (male) for R4-c, 3 Drake feet, assorted (looks like 40 or more) with threaded extension rods 115 volt boxer fans, similar to FA-7, most new, Sherwood R4-C Audio Replacement board, new Blue filter stock (the right blue), 7 sheets, each approx. 2feet square TR-7/5 volume, on/off pot/switch, 2, condition unknown R4-C filter, 5045, 1.5khz Rear R4-C filter brackets, 6, new TR-7 series plastic end plates, 3 left, 3 right PS-7 handle, 2 Clear lexan for TR-5 front panel, 3, new Lables for C-line cables, many sheets TR-5 front panel, near new Drake tuning knobs, 7-line, plus skirts, 3 C-line knobs, assorted (with tuning knobs) RV-75 RIT cable TR-7 extender boards, full set L7-wiring harness with pushbutton switches (sorry, no power switch) NB-7 dummy board Assorted boards for TR-5 TR-7 audio board TR-7 translator board TR-5 RIT board RV-75 switch bank R4-C xtal cover for rear panel, new TR-7 Aux-7 board Misc TR-7 series cabinets, some repainted. BTW: lots of this stuff is unobtanium now. Neil, K1VY (603) 465-2788 -- On Behalf of Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] What to do with all this stuff?, Here's the list (approx)
Thom R. Lacosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Sun, 19 Sep 2004, Neil Rosenberg wrote: PS-7 power supplies, 3, $115 ea 1 TR-7 ABSOLUTELY LOADED, $775 1 Thom http://www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon http://www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month -- On Behalf of Thom R. Lacosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] What to do with all this stuff?
Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi all. For years now I've been collecting all manner of Drake stuff, from crystal filters to replacement PC boards to vacuum tubes to wattmeters to whole radios and stations, and, well...you know the drill. I think there's a TR-5 out there, maybe an RV-75, power supplies, an L4B linear, antenna tuners, TR-7, RV-7 plus an absolutely fabulous C-line. Yes, everything works; it's the result of years of culling out the collection and just the best is left. I'm moving on so to speak (no I'm not dying, just new interests), and I'm considering what to do with all of this. I'm sure I could ebay the stuff and make a fortune, and maybe that's what I'll do. This stuff is meant to be used, and I'm certainly not doing that. I probably will make and post a detailed list, unless someone wants to come by and pick up the whole lot. If you're interested in having an INSTANT HUGE DRAKE COLLECTION give me a jingle, or email. I'll try to do an inventory in the next few weeks. Neil, K1VY (603) 465-2788 -- On Behalf of Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] What to do with all this stuff?, Here's the list (approx)
Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Hi again; Here's the list of what I am interested in selling as a lot. I meticulously care for my gear, and what you are seeing here is the result of years of culling and collecting. In other words, this stuff is clean, undamaged, and works (I guarantee your satisfaction). I hope I've counted right, I may be off a bit here and there on the parts. Equipment: MS-4 with AC-4 combo WH-7 hf wattmeter MS-7 speakers, 2 PS-7 power supplies, 3 RV-7 remote vfos, 2 W-4 hf wattmeter RV-75 digital vfo MN-2000 antenna tuner MN-2700 antenna tuner, with B1000 balun MS-4 speaker L4-B linear amp with power supply, 10mtrs included TR-7 ABSOLUTELY LOADED TR-5 ABSOLUTELY LOADED C-line: R4-C ABSOLUTELY LOADED, latest version T4X-C transmitter, latest version C-line cables with above. PS-75 power supply Home-Made digital synthesizer, similar in function to RV-75 Spares, parts, etc: C-line xtals, assorted, approx 50 TR-7 replacement LED display (upper and lower) TR-6 crystal, 50150 T4X-C mic plugs, 7 (some right angle) R4-C IF cans, 2, unknown C-line tuning knob trim plates, 3 3 SL-500 filters SL-300 filter SL-2300 filter Misc power connectors 4-pin accessory power connector (male) for R4-c, 3 Drake feet, assorted (looks like 40 or more) with threaded extension rods 115 volt boxer fans, similar to FA-7, most new, Sherwood R4-C Audio Replacement board, new Blue filter stock (the right blue), 7 sheets, each approx. 2feet square TR-7/5 volume, on/off pot/switch, 2, condition unknown R4-C filter, 5045, 1.5khz Rear R4-C filter brackets, 6, new TR-7 series plastic end plates, 3 left, 3 right PS-7 handle, 2 Clear lexan for TR-5 front panel, 3, new Lables for C-line cables, many sheets TR-5 front panel, near new Drake tuning knobs, 7-line, plus skirts, 3 C-line knobs, assorted (with tuning knobs) B1000 balun RV-75 RIT cable TR-7 extender boards, full set L7-wiring harness with pushbutton switches (sorry, no power switch) NB-7 dummy board Assorted boards for TR-5 TR-7 audio board TR-7 translator board TR-5 RIT board RV-75 switch bank R4-C xtal cover for rear panel, new TR-7 Aux-7 board Misc TR-7 series cabinets, some repainted. 6JB6 Tubes, new old stock, 8 matched pairs. Have a close look and please make a REASONABLE offer. My cursory examination puts the value well over $5k, but it's really hard to price out the parts. If you need them, they're worth a lot, if not, they're just more junk for the drawer. BTW: lots of this stuff is unobtanium now. Neil, K1VY (603) 465-2788 -- On Behalf of Neil Rosenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] What Should I Pay for a DR-7 Display?
I am getting a Drake TR7, hooray! Down side is it needs a DR-7 display board. I see one on ebay for $75. (starting price). Is that a fair going price these days or are there better, and lower, sources? -- Thanks! 73, doc kd4e West Central Florida Atlas, Drake, Hallicrafters, TenTec ... Non-Linux compatible PC's are inferior. -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
