[Elecraft] K1 No tone-does transmit
I'm trying to understand why I can't seem to get my K1 to emit a tone when I press + and - but I do hear dits and dahs in my earphones when I transmit and I do hear dits and dahs in my other radio when I transmit into a dummy load. I'm trying to do a final alignment. Can you do a final alignment with key down rather than via tone? Any suggestions welcome. Rich NU6T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and Z90 Panadapter FOR SALE
For Sale: I have just ordered a K3 (after agonizing over the decision for months) and, as a result, I am forced to offer my "as new" K2 #4972 for sale. I have the following components: K2 Transceiver #4972; KPA100 100 Watt Amplifier; KSB2 SSB Option; K160RX 160 M & 2nd Antenna Option; KNB2 Noise Blanker; KDSP2 DSP & Clock Option; K60XV 60M & Transverter Option; KAT100-1 External Antenna Tuner; ETS15 1.5" Extra Tilt Stand; FDIMP Finger Dimple; K2VCOSHLDKT VCO Shield Kit; DL1 20 Watt Dummy Load; Full Set of Cables; Full Set of Original Manuals; assembled set of ReWork Eliminators & their Microphone Adapter Kit; Yaesu Ft-100 Tuning Knob; Nifty K2 Mini-Manual; and an outstanding Clifton Laboratories Z90 Panadapter #1008 (band scope) with a Long Running Spares Kit and accessories (this is the Z90 that was featured on the cover of QEX Magazine in March 2007 and I will include a copy of the Magazine). All of these units: the K2 Transceiver, KAT100 Automatic Antenna Tuner, Z90 Panadapter, and options are in pristine cosmetic and mechanical condition; they were assembled without errors or rework, and they all are, to the best of my ability to determine, in perfect working condition. I am the builder and the original owner and the equipment has always lived in a non-smoking environment. The workmanship is excellent. Also included are the original Manuals for all of the kits and options, in perfect condition and with no markings, as well as all of the cables and other bits and pieces. I also have a collection of articles, photos, notes, and references for both the K2 and the Z90 that I will include on a CD(s) if you are interested. I am asking $2,425.70 for the complete package, which represents the 90% of the total base price of the kits (less a LOT of shipping charges). I will ship everything, double-boxed, anywhere in the U.S. via UPS Ground, insured, without additional charge. Please note: I do not intend to separate these units. Together, they comprise a matched set of outstanding components for an individual who is interested in owning an excellent and complete K2 / Z90 station. The only exception I will make is that if the Z90 and its full Spares Kit and accessories is sold first for $706.05, I will then offer the remainder of the K2 station for $1,711.68. Please contact me off-list if you are interested, or if you have any questions concerning these items. PS: I know that my K3 will not be delivered until probably March, at the earliest; and I hereby promise not to send a single message to the reflector regarding my shipping date, or anyone else's shipping date, for that matter. I have promised myself that I will wait patiently, or at least quietly. 73 -mike- Michael Warden - W2PY Scottsdale, AZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for December 9th & 10th, 2007
Good Evening, ECOM operations ceased as of PST today. The infrastructure of the coast from Lincoln City to Astoria is allowing folks to take care of themselves and communicate via their normal means. Washington is still a mess but I was not involved with their ECOM efforts so I am not familiar with all that occurred up there. I can only describe the part of the elephant I felt. Tonight the twenty meter net went very well. However, who pulled the plug on forty? After I worked W6ZH there was a long lull until I worked a local station. I shut down at 0330z after working a few more. I was not expecting propagation to be so poor after last week's session. From the notes I am getting from N0SS he is having some lousy weather. Hopefully he will not lose his beam. The dipole is half down from ice but the rest may go tomorrow. He said worse is on the way. As long as he doesn't have that tower crashing down it won't be TOO bad. Ten minutes into the forty meter net I was tempted to see if my antennas were still up! Weather here is 20 degrees with light snow and no wind. More light snow is on the way but then later in the week it will rain. I may be in Tom's shoes by late in the week. However, I don't have all that expensive aluminum to replace. The lists => On 14050 kHz at 2300z: W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553QNI #80 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 W0JFR - John - CO - K2 - 4507 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 QNI #130 KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798 K1THP - Dave - CT - K2 - 3942 W1BPJ - Terry - CO - K1 - 1800 KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 NO8V - John - MI - ? W0SZW - Keith - IA - ? W7KPL - Jerry - AZ - ? KJ7BS - Mark - AZ - K2 - 539 KD5PZO - Pat - OR - K4 - 001 On 7045 kHz at 0300z: W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553 AA7YW - Dick - WA - FT-890 KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 KD5PZO - Pat - OR - K4 - 001 The A to B mods on my rig made a large difference in its ease of operation. I had a lot more gain than I was used to over the years. Most of the first net was run with the gain at 11 o'clock. I did move it once but then lowered it once again. I opened the filters from 500 Hz to 1800 Hz near the end of the first net and found two stations nearby. I could hear nothing from them while I was on net frequency. The audio filter sounds different though. I am not sure what was changed in it by the A to B mods. Maybe you all can tell me. Tomorrow I am off for a hike in the woods. The local logging companies will provide a fir tree for me. I decided I don't want a domestic tree this year. I'll cut a wild (well, hybrid Doug fir) instead. They have more character: kind of like Charlie Brown's tree :) I think it will look nice on the dining room table once I am done with it. Besides hiking a few miles with a domestic tree is a lot of work! Until next week stay warm and dry, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Setting up PF1/PF2
Hi I'm at the end of installing new firmware in K2 sn 1520 in advance of building and installing a KIO2. And that's being done in order to build and connect up a new XV50 kit that's sitting patiently on my bench. Anyway, all's going quite well except: 1. I'd like to restore the narrow RIT range to the PF1 key, but can't make it happen (there is no RIT selection in the menu list for PF1). Any advice greatly appreciated. 2. I've got SCAN successfully re-assigned to the PF2 key but pressing it doesn't initiate a scan. I assume that I have to re-enter all my scan limits in order for PF2 to do its thing again? 3. After quick glance at the features of the "new" firmware (2.04p) that weren't present in the old (1.04d), I don't see anything of much interest. Is there any "new" feature that has proved particularly appealing that I should look into in more detail ? For reference, on hf I do 12 watts or less, mainly cw (except ssb+cw in contests). Thanks in advance... 73, Lenny W2BVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Noise blanker in 10m contest
I lost some of today helping a club member with an antenna but I'm not sure it was any great loss. K2 QRP effort netted 35 QSOs for the whole contest with only 4 mults. There was one noteworthy thing from this effort. For the first time while I was using my K2 there was this irritating noise being picked up on receive. This noise was LOUD and it promised to make an already challenging day even tougher. Normally this is a pretty quiet location so I was surprised. Anyway, I glanced at the radio and saw the little "NB" switch. I've never had an opportunity to test this particular feature before today. Press the button: noise gone. Turn off "NB" and the noise is back. Wow. That really, really works well! I don't know if the NB circuit for the K1 is as good as the one in the K2, but I've convinced myself that the two K1's I built in November (40/30/20/17 and 80/15) should both have a noise blanker. If anybody is on the fence about whether or not to get the K2 noise blanker I say "go for it". If it works as well as the one in my K2 I think you'll be very happy you did. -- Scott (NE1RD) -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Noise-blanker-in-10m-contest-tp14246665p14246665.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest
Yep, today wasn't as good as yesterday, and I called yesterday "bleak"! Today I had a grand total of 4 QSOs and no new multipliers. Highlight was actually yesterday evening a couple hours after dark when things were jumping for awhile. I was running over "60 per hour" but unfortunately that rate only lasted for about 10 minutes !! Strange that best signals here in Colorado were after dark both Friday and Sat nites. Ended up with 100 QSOs and only 20 multipliers - well down from last year, and I was running 100W this year rather than QRP. But wait until next year - Sunspots AND a new K3!! ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest
Whew!! Now I dont feel so bad..40 contacts with 18 multipliers. I figured it was my lack of a good 10 meter setup. Although Fla had a direct line to MO this afternoon for a hour or so. Figured I might hear Tom (N0SS) out there. It was fun any-hoo. 73s -Pete ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Better drivers for "Phillips" screws
Simple tip, if you have a "Phillips Screwdriver", file or grind about 1mm off the point. The tool will now seat better in most Phillips or Pozidrive screws and work much better. No it's not the best solution, just one that works pretty good. -- 73 Rod, Ai7NN ~*~*~Happy Holidays~*~*~ On Dec 9, 2007 1:49 PM, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > While not a "Phillips" screwdriver, those made > for "Posidriv" screws are better for "Phillips" screws. > > Yes, I'm well-aware of the difference in the two ... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K60XV no tx power problem
Stephen, From the behavior you indicate, I would believe you have something wrong with the VRFDET signal. Check first by removing the K60XV - install a low value capacitor (4.7 pf is ideal) between the output two pins of J15 and install a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 of J13. With those 'unmodule' connections, see if you have proper operation on all bands (60 meters will not work, of course). If operation is not restored, check the wires added to the bottom of the RF board carefully against the manual instructions, and be certain there are no solder bridges at J13. If proper operation is restored with the temporary jumpers, then look at the soldering on the K60XV board, particularly at P1. My best guess is: If you have an older K2 (SN less than 3000), you did not make an adequate cut on the trace to J13 pin 6, or if you have a post SN 3000 K2, there is a solder bridge from the '8T' point near J13 pin 6 to the 'X' point near it. The reason for this guess goes to the heart of the K2 power control mechanism. If the 8T line is connected to the VRFDET signal line, the K2 microprocessor thinks it is putting out a lot of power and reduces the BFO injection to attempt to reduce the power to the requested level. The result would be an indication of high power out (19.1 watts) due to the voltage on the VRFDET line but no actual power output since the microprocessor has reduced the BFO injection to as low as it can possibly be reduced. 73, Don W3FPR Stephen Prior wrote: I have just spent the afternoon here putting the K60XV board in my K2 s/no. 4930. It works fine on rx and tests out okay until I get to the part on page 13 where I have to set to 2W and peak C1 and C2 on the 60 metre board. I have no power output, nothing registered on a 5W fsd external meter and full scale deflection on the K2's meter with 19.1 Watts shown irrespective of the position of the power control. The same behaviour is seen on every other band. Yet the rx works fine on all bands. At this point I have the K2 bare except for ssb and noise blanker modules, and of course the K60XV - the KAT2 and KIO2 are still sitting in the top lid on the floor beside me. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] FW: K60XV no tx power problem
David, many thanks! You were very close - I had inadvertently soldered the centre of the coax at J13 to the little hole next to hole X, not hole X itself. All working now, covers going back on! Thanks a lot 73 Stephen On 9/12/07 21:48, "David Pratt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > In a recent message, Stephen Prior <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote ... >> One more thing I have just noticed - I do have power out on ssb, about 20W >> as measured externally, but the power control still does not have any >> effect. On Tune and CW, there is no externally measure power output on any >> band, whatever the position of the power control. >> >> What have I done?! :-(( > > My guess is that it is something to do with the connection of the > screened cable connecting the two pads on the underside of the main > board. Make sure you have the connections at the right places. I seem to > remember this was quite tricky to get right. I think it's just a matter > of rechecking the installation steps on page 9 of the manual (in my Rev > A March 15 2004). Good luck and let us know when you find the problem. > > 73 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Correction - Better drivers for "Phillips" screws
It's actually "Pozidriv" ... Ken - K0PP - Original Message - From: Ken Kopp To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, 09 December, 2007 21:49 Subject: Better drivers for "Phillips" screws While not a "Phillips" screwdriver, those made for "Posidriv" screws are better for "Phillips" screws. Yes, I'm well-aware of the difference in the two ... 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Better drivers for "Phillips" screws
While not a "Phillips" screwdriver, those made for "Posidriv" screws are better for "Phillips" screws. Yes, I'm well-aware of the difference in the two ... 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit, the result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The K3 flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip easily with a #0 or 'sharp' #1. You can lightly touch the tip to a fine grinding wheel to fix that on a cheap screwdriver. I prefer the better brands like Craftsmen and Proto. OSH (Orchards) has a house brand that is good. I picked up a couple with 6" shank which was helpful when I installed the kpa3 shield. My favorite brand for high quality is Wiha www.WihaTools.com which are made in Germany. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] FW: K60XV no tx power problem
In a recent message, Stephen Prior <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote ... One more thing I have just noticed - I do have power out on ssb, about 20W as measured externally, but the power control still does not have any effect. On Tune and CW, there is no externally measure power output on any band, whatever the position of the power control. What have I done?! :-(( My guess is that it is something to do with the connection of the screened cable connecting the two pads on the underside of the main board. Make sure you have the connections at the right places. I seem to remember this was quite tricky to get right. I think it's just a matter of rechecking the installation steps on page 9 of the manual (in my Rev A March 15 2004). Good luck and let us know when you find the problem. 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit, the result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The K3 flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip easily with a #0 or 'sharp' #1. I prefer the better brands like Craftsmen and Proto. OSH (Orchards) has a house brand that is good. I picked up a couple with 6" shank which was helpful when I installed the kpa3 shield. A well fitting screwdriver will hold an undamaged philips screw without needing a magnet. Al WA6VNN **Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop000301) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FW: K60XV no tx power problem
One more thing I have just noticed - I do have power out on ssb, about 20W as measured externally, but the power control still does not have any effect. On Tune and CW, there is no externally measure power output on any band, whatever the position of the power control. What have I done?! :-(( -- Forwarded Message From: Stephen Prior <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 20:30:46 + To: elecraft Conversation: K60XV no tx power problem Subject: K60XV no tx power problem I have just spent the afternoon here putting the K60XV board in my K2 s/no. 4930. It works fine on rx and tests out okay until I get to the part on page 13 where I have to set to 2W and peak C1 and C2 on the 60 metre board. I have no power output, nothing registered on a 5W fsd external meter and full scale deflection on the K2's meter with 19.1 Watts shown irrespective of the position of the power control. The same behaviour is seen on every other band. Yet the rx works fine on all bands. At this point I have the K2 bare except for ssb and noise blanker modules, and of course the K60XV - the KAT2 and KIO2 are still sitting in the top lid on the floor beside me. I have checked everything that I have done at least once. There is about 90 ohms between the collector(s) of the PA transistors and ground. Anyone have any ideas please? Thanks Stephen G4SJP -- End of Forwarded Message ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Impedance
Also look in Table on Pg 49 Main Menu Table under MIC SEL for the specific settings. Al WA6VNN **Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop000301) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
You should be fine unless you're storing a copy of the firmware on a floppy disk near your assembly area. ;-) Craig NZ0R -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Pratt Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 12:19 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote ... >This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: >if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would >be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. Ah, but mind you don't erase the firmware ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Just heard K0PP on 14.033 MHz
Ur 5nn in VA, Ken. The K3 sounds great!! I would give you a shout but I'm knee deep in code at the moment. 73, David W4SMT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K60XV no tx power problem
I have just spent the afternoon here putting the K60XV board in my K2 s/no. 4930. It works fine on rx and tests out okay until I get to the part on page 13 where I have to set to 2W and peak C1 and C2 on the 60 metre board. I have no power output, nothing registered on a 5W fsd external meter and full scale deflection on the K2's meter with 19.1 Watts shown irrespective of the position of the power control. The same behaviour is seen on every other band. Yet the rx works fine on all bands. At this point I have the K2 bare except for ssb and noise blanker modules, and of course the K60XV - the KAT2 and KIO2 are still sitting in the top lid on the floor beside me. I have checked everything that I have done at least once. There is about 90 ohms between the collector(s) of the PA transistors and ground. Anyone have any ideas please? Thanks Stephen G4SJP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - the non-magnetic "magnetic" screwdriver
Interesting reading. Here's my decades-old trick that always works well. I used a small piece of electrical or masking tape. I place the screw/other hardware into the tip of the screwdriver and do a wrap of tape so that the edge of the tape just grabs onto the head/washer. The rest wraps around the screwdriver shaft. All you need to do is to START the screen until it catches for a turn or two. Then a slight up-pull on the screwdriver allows you to remove the tape (which is now stuck to the screwdriver and not the hardware) while keeping the hardware in place. Then just go back with the screwdriver with finish tightening her up. I must admit, that I use this method for really hard to get to places where I need a long (often very long) screwdriver shaft. But it also works quite nicely for very tight places. No worries about the magnetized tip doing any damage. Just be sure to withdraw the screwdriver BEFORE you make the screw too tight or the tape will get "left behind" when you withdraw the screwdriver. de Doug KR2Q ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
A very inexpensive tool which I have found to be ideal for getting screws, nuts and washers into tight corners is a thing called a 'Grabber', the one that I have resembles a fat plastic trim tool 4 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch diameter. At one end is a spring loaded plunger which when pushed down by one's thumb causes three spring legs to poke out of the other end which are used to hold a screw, a screw plus washer, a nut or any other small item up to 1/2 inch across. It becomes dead easy to fit hardware in difficult to reach places using a 'Grabber'. It cost me about two US dollars IIRC maybe 30 years ago from an outfit similar to Radio Shack. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Dave Yarnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote on Sunday, December 09, 2007 5:28 PM Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that it is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you can get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably would be wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move the screw down over the hole and begin to screw it in. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 AFX Feature
Hi All, As most of you probably know, the K3 incorporates a feature called "AFX", which is similar to stereo reception. It is a DSP function, and I am finding it to be very beneficial. You can read a brief description of it on P. 33 of the owner's manual. As described, it does indeed make listening less fatiguing, or seemingly so. But the real benefit I am finding is in readibility of many signals. On SSB, many signals are definitely enhanced by using this feature. It does seem to depend somewhat on just what kind of audio is being provided by the other station. In other words, the benefit of AFX seems more pronounced on some signals as opposed to others. The same occurs on CW. If you don't have your K3 yet, but do happen to have a Heil headset with their phase switching feature, you can get some idea about what I am talking about. But the K3's AFX feature is substanially more pronounced as to benefit. AFX really seems to make some signals jump right up, and significantly more pleasant to listen to, besides making a signal more readable. It seems particularly effective if you have any kind of noise level. So, in case you were wondering, AFX is not just a "gee whiz" feature. It truly does very good things. Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re[2]: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
One advantage of the magnetized driver tip is that it will simultaneously hold both the screw and the lock washer in those cases which require a lock washer under the screw head. The hex nuts can be a bother; made me wish Elecraft had the old plastic tool that Heathkit used to include that gripped the hex nut while the screw was started. Luckily, the vast majority of screws in the K3 go into prethreaded bushings. Of course some of these you also install but in most cases it's on a board or panel that is not mounted in the box yet so it isn't a problem. Mike W5FTD >> This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: >> if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would >> be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 >> is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the >> screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats >> trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). >> Mike W5FTD > > I have found that a small long nose pliers works well for holding nuts or > machine screws in place while applying torque to the other end. > 73 > Rick Dettinger > K7MW > K3 # (n-?) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
> This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: > if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would > be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 > is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the > screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats > trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). > Mike W5FTD I have found that a small long nose pliers works well for holding nuts or machine screws in place while applying torque to the other end. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW K3 # (n-?) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 trimmer capacitors.
Hi. I'm installing the trimmer capacitors on the band pass filter part of K2 now. The capacitors I have got is some blue plastic capacitors in stead of the 30pF ceramic trimmers. Is this corect or should I continue to look for some other capacitors? There is no text on the blue capacitors. 73de Thomas LA3PNA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote ... This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. Ah, but mind you don't erase the firmware ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Impedance
I rather think a low impedence mike is generally preferred. Note the pinout information on P. 13 of the manual where a low impedence mike (approx. 600 ohms) is indicated. However, the K3 can be used with either high or low impedence microphones, and that is dealt with via a menu setting. See P. 20 of the owners manual, left column, last paragraph. Dave W7AQK - Original Message - From: "Bob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 9:25 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Impedance I am sure that this is covered somewhere, but I can not find it. What impedance microphone is required for optimal performance with the K3 and what is the permissible range? Thanks Bob -- For Support Call Lakeshore, ON, Canada (519) 997-4574 Silicon Valley, CA, U.S.A.(408) 916-1119 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Ian GM3SEK asked: Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? --- No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts list is broken down to show what parts are in each package. In this case, both flat head screws and pan head screws are in the "K3 Miscellaneous Bag" containing much of the enclosure hardware. That's why we specify the specific size and type of screw and show a picture of where each one goes throughout the manual. In this case I think it's clear more emphasis on the bottom screws being PAN head screws is justified and should appear in future revisions of the manual. However, it's very important to read and check off every step in the procedure and, if something doesn't fit right, the first thing to do is to go back and read the step and look at the picture again. Thanks, Ron and everyone. It won't be a problem here, as both the assembly work and the completed rig will be shared with my wife, who is sure to enjoy sorting out the screws. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K3] Assembly
This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). Mike W5FTD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Hi All, One bag of parts, the "miscellaneous bag" I think, has most of the screws used in the assembly. Other accessories and parts do often include additional hardware necessary for assembly of that part. But generally, you are digging screws from the general package. With 20/20 hindsight, I would recommend that you separate all the hardware carefully into muffin tin compartments. I spent way too much time carefully measuring each screw with a ruler--the 3/16 inch screws are hard to distinguish from the 1/4 inch, etc. You have flat head screws, black pan head screws, zinc pan head screws, and in varying sizes. Then you have different types of washers also. Most other parts are readily identifiable, but the screws and washers can be a little confusing. You probably will have a few extra as well, and the manual makes note of that fact. Also, when you add the KPA3 shield and amp, you will actually change a few pieces of hardware. So take care when you get to that step. As noted earlier, the bottom panels are not countersunk, and use panhead screws rather than flathead screws. While I'm at it, I will pass on a couple of very small glitches I ran into. One was attaching the plastic cover which goes over the LCD display. I had a little trouble exactly matching the holes in the cover with the holes on the front panel. It made it difficult to get the screws to catch, but eventually it all worked. When attaching the control board to the front panel, I found it a bit tricky to get the microphone jack to slide fully through the hole in the front panel. The manual also makes mention of this. I didn't have to do any reaming or anything, but it does take a little careful jiggling to get the microphone connector to fully pass through the hole. Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that it is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you can get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably would be wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move the screw down over the hole and begin to screw it in. The required washer can be places over the hole by just sliding them into position using the small slots on the side where the screwholes are located. But those slots aren't big enough to do the same with the screw itself. But using a magnetic tipped screwdriver also can cause a small problem as you approach the screwhole where you have already placed the washer. The washer wants to move due to the magnetic attraction. So you have to "aim and shoot" somewhat deftly. But it works. Somebody else probably has a much simpler solution to this. Overall, I think the K3 goes together quite nicely. Everything fits! Just be sure to mate and seat connectors properly. You are told when a connector might not seat 100%. The little jumper cables, like the ones from the coax connectors, have pin conncetors on them, and you need to make sure you fully mate those as well. Dave W7AQK - Original Message - From: "Ian White GM3SEK" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 1:14 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware to use, but you really have to read the steps! Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RX side by side comparisons of K3 and Orion (II)
On Sun, 09 Dec 2007 02:20:38 +, you wrote: >Hello all, > >has anyone made receiver side by side comparisons of a K3 and a TenTec >Orion/Orion II? >As far as I know the conversion principle of both transceivers is quite >similar. I'm not sure about the concept of roofing filters... > >As one may expect an improvement because of the newer design of the K3 >against the Orion, is this remarkable in contest situations e.g.? > >Any comment is appreciated and may be also interesting for other list >readers. > > >73 de Henning, DL1OJ >(k2 #1444, k3 # 2nd prod. run) I have an Orion II to compare the K3 to. When I receive the K3 (late Jan) I will make RX comparisons. I'm hoping that the K3 does not suffer from the RX hiss the Orion II suffers when not connected to an antenna. As to changing bands; The only time I change bands rapidly is when using cluster reports. The remote control of modern rigs solves the band change issue for me, so, although having band change buttons is more convenient it's not an issue for me. In addition the Orion II Main and Sub receivers are not synched well. It is irritating to set B to the frequency of A and hear the resulting warble caused by the 6hz mismatch between the VFOs when listening to both. I've never experienced this on any other rig with two VFOs. I believe the K3 doesn't suffer from this issue. Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ian GM3SEK asked: Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? --- No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts list is broken down to show what parts are in each package. In this case, both flat head screws and pan head screws are in the "K3 Miscellaneous Bag" containing much of the enclosure hardware. That's why we specify the specific size and type of screw and show a picture of where each one goes throughout the manual. In this case I think it's clear more emphasis on the bottom screws being PAN head screws is justified and should appear in future revisions of the manual. However, it's very important to read and check off every step in the procedure and, if something doesn't fit right, the first thing to do is to go back and read the step and look at the picture again. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Microphone Impedance
I am sure that this is covered somewhere, but I can not find it. What impedance microphone is required for optimal performance with the K3 and what is the permissible range? Thanks Bob -- For Support Call Lakeshore, ON, Canada (519) 997-4574 Silicon Valley, CA, U.S.A.(408) 916-1119 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
I initially made the EXACT same mistake ... but after a few moments of reflection, realizing that something just didn't 'smell right', I re-read the assembly manual carefully ... and sorted it out. Not a big deal! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gordon & Lois Duff Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:08 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel > Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading "pan head" which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com This email message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is proprietary, confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure, or distribution is prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify the sender by return email and delete the original message. Please note, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The organization accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Invoice confirmation - YES!
As I ordered mine on the same day, can't be long now... 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sun, 09 Dec 2007 13:24:04 +, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: > I received my Invoice confirmation at 23:58 last night (Sat) - so Aptos are > burning weekends to. Ordered 2-May @ 15:45z. > Added lots of 'bits' to it over the period from then until now. > Shipping in 7-10 days by UPS Express. > Will notify when it arrives. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K3] Invoice confirmation - YES!
I received my Invoice confirmation at 23:58 last night (Sat) - so Aptos are burning weekends to. Ordered 2-May @ 15:45z. Added lots of 'bits' to it over the period from then until now. Shipping in 7-10 days by UPS Express. Will notify when it arrives. -- A good cook is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness. -Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer (1890-1973) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RX side by side comparisons of K3 and Orion (II)
I can compare the Orion 1 to the K3. Size - the Orion is a suitcase, the K3 is a lunch box -much smaller and lighter. As a result the K3s buttons and knobs are smaller and closer together. The K3 is portable, the Orion is not. Bandscope - the Orion's may be primitive but it works. The K3s will be a separate unit and is still planned for the future. Someone may come up with a box to attach to a computer monitor. Price - you'll have to add that up yourself. Ease of use issues: Orion has one button band switching and 4 stacking registers. The K3 cycles through the bands and has memories. Orion is 2 button pushes to change mode, K3 cycles through modes. Orion has a low power tuning function that makes it easier to pre-tune your amplifier. This is a firmware upgrade planned for the K3. In my opinion, the K3s bandwidth adjustments are much easier to use. I have never gotten used to the Orion's. Some functions are not as handy on the K3 because they are in a menu but they are functions you don't tend to change much. Most functions in the Orion are no more than two button pushes and a knob adjustment. On the other hand, a lot of functions you do change are activated on the K3 by pushing the adjustment knob and that makes more sense and is easier to follow than the Orion's menu selection and multifunction knob. Firmware: Orion 1 had never been "right." It is better now as the mysterious crashing seems to be cured. The latest versions do not implement NR very well (if at all) and TT may be done with any further improvements. The K3 is very good as it is and Elecraft is working to add features. I feel better being on the edge of an improving product. Receiver I think the specs give the advantage to the K3 and I haven't had mine long enough to test it in all conditions. I do think the K3 sounds better. I have the 500hz roofing filter in the K3 and a 600hz in the Orion's 1khz slot (that is to solve another TT design issue that is too complicated to go into here but was fixed in the Orion 2). The K3 seems to resolve close-in loud interference better but the difference is marginal. Summary I think they are very close in performance. I give the edge to the K3 but it is slight. I would say the decision between the two is driven more by the "ease of use" issues. Both companies have reputations for good customer service but I would say Elecraft's is superior. k4ia Craig "Buck" Fredericksburg, Virginia USA **Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop000301) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
> Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading "pan head" which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Assembly
FYI, there's a summary of K3 assembly concerns that have been posted to the reflector on the K3 Wiki at http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Kit_Building_-_Specific_Concerns/Advice The intention is for future K3 builders to be able to go to one place and get everyone's advice without having to search through the archives. 73, Barry N1EU >On another point, there was criticism of someone posting an assembly question to the reflector. That is the whole point of the reflector, simple "how does it fit" or "where does that go" questions are easily resolved, often in a few minutes at almost at any time of the day, without needing to bother Elecraft Support who can then spend time on more important matters, like getting K3s out the door! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Ian GM3SEK asked "Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?" No, the "nuts and bolts" are bundled together for each module/assembly in an envelope or bag. Sorting them is relatively easy as there aren't that many per assembly stage. I cut the bottom off a cardboard box to form a shallow tray around 1 inch high, then glued separators into the box with hot melt glue and finally labelling the compartments by bolt length, etc. Others have used egg trays for the same purpose. It's not a big job and doesn't need to be complicated. On another point, there was criticism of someone posting an assembly question to the reflector. That is the whole point of the reflector, simple "how does it fit" or "where does that go" questions are easily resolved, often in a few minutes at almost at any time of the day, without needing to bother Elecraft Support who can then spend time on more important matters, like getting K3s out the door! 73 Dave, G4AON K1 #1154, K2/10 #1892 and K3/100 #80 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest
A lot better than in G land. Left the receiver running on 28020 yesterday and a couple of times signals popped out of the noise but had disappeared again before I could copy their callsigns. Effectively zilch - and I won the QRP G certificate last year with a massive 18 QSOs... 73 Dave G3YMC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/OT---10-meter-contest-tp14234041p14236695.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware to use, but you really have to read the steps! Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
