Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Noise from P3
Hi Graham Yes. With or without that cable seems to make no difference. Regards John G4ZTR -Original Message- From: Graham Kimbell G3TCT [mailto:g3...@lineone.net] Sent: 24 March 2011 20:49 To: John Lemay Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Noise from P3 On 19:59, John Lemay wrote: Well, I have undertaken a lot of work to address this problem:- John have you tried disconnecting the RS232 connection between K3 and P3? Graham G3TCT __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5983 (20110324) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5983 (20110324) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan
On Thu, 2011-03-24 at 12:00 -0400, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote: I agree. The kitbuilding of the K2 was the main reason I went with it and not the K3. 73, David AJ4TF Message: 23 Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:47:52 -0500 From: Allen Wisbey, W1SBY al...@thewisbeys.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: 4d8abee8.2050...@thewisbeys.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed On 3/23/2011 10:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: If you are looking at a K2 fully fitted out with all options, then the price may approach the basic K3, and the K3 becomes the better dollar value, but if you are looking for a transceiver without all the bells and whistles, a K2 may be your answer. Don, you missed one important feature/value. The fact that you can say I built it myself. That feature weighed heavily when I chose the (fully loaded) K2. 73 de Allen, W1SBY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Option to have VOX band independent
Unless I'm missing something, the state of the K3 VOX as on or off is retained when changing bands. My preference would be to be able to set it independent of band with a menu or config setting. I always use it and sometimes QSK for CW, always use it for SSB, and it's irrelevant on FSK. (I don't use AFSK or PSK.) I switch it off when just listening on SSB so I don't accidentally trip it. That behavior is the same regardless of band. I sometimes use a macro in DXLab's Commander to turn VOX on and off, since it's quicker than press and hold on the K3 Band switch. I also like to minimize wear and tear on a button/switch. Nonetheless, it would still be more convenient for me to have the equivalent of an old fashioned on/off switch. Jim N7US __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate -- The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true. Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Help Please! I have researched the Reflector emails and cannot find any postings with a similar problem to the one I have! I do not have a proper readout of either the MENU or CONFIG options on my K3. All the MENU entry names show a row of question marks, although the line above appears to show the actual entry for each function correctly. Some of the CONFIG entry names also show a row of question marks but others shows lettering which does not bear any resemblance to the different functions, (ie the TECH MD function displays LPAGE T and VCO MD (T) displays RQDIGOU). Some of the entry settings appear to be correct but others show an unreadable combination of letters and/or partly formed letters. The only way I know I am in a particular menu function is by going through the options, backwards or forwards and one at a time, from one that I know is correct ie the baud rate or serial number. I arrived at this situation as follows: I have K3 serial 819 which, until yesterday, has been working fine. It was last updated on 11 September 2008 with MCU 2.38, FPF 0.02 and DSP1 1.90 (I don't have the second RX fitted). Yesterday I tried to update it with the latest firmware: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71 and that is when the problem occurred. The MCU and FPF firmware loaded ok but the DSP 1 showed an error message that it had failed, and displayed ERR DSE. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 several more times and each time got the same error message. I then noticed that when I changed bands I was getting the ERR PL1 message. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 with a different computer and it loaded ok but I still got the ERR PL1 message. ( I am using a serial to USB connector and read in the Reflector archives that this can sometimes cause a propblem when loading firmware to the K3.) I have tried doing the following: 1. Switching the K3 off, waiting five seconds and switching on. 2. Reloading the firmware - the K3 utility program shows it loaded successfully. The program also shows the K3 firmware and Available Firmware are identical: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71. DSP2 and DVR are shown as N/A. 3. Re-calibrating VCO MD - after going through the procedure the display shows E 5 and ERR VCO. 4. Restoring the K3 to the previous configuration. 5. Restoring the K3 to the default options using EE INIT. When I switch the K3 on now, I get the ERR PL1 message. It goes off after a second but reappears each time I change bands. I would be grateful for any other suggestions and/or ideas, please? Thanks and 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just to fit two connectors is unreasonable. Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Anderson-Powerpoll-connector-tp6205508p6207701.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware, did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before updating the firmware. 73, Guy. On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 9:30 AM, Chris Page ch...@g4bue.com wrote: Help Please! I have researched the Reflector emails and cannot find any postings with a similar problem to the one I have! I do not have a proper readout of either the MENU or CONFIG options on my K3. All the MENU entry names show a row of question marks, although the line above appears to show the actual entry for each function correctly. Some of the CONFIG entry names also show a row of question marks but others shows lettering which does not bear any resemblance to the different functions, (ie the TECH MD function displays LPAGE T and VCO MD (T) displays RQDIGOU). Some of the entry settings appear to be correct but others show an unreadable combination of letters and/or partly formed letters. The only way I know I am in a particular menu function is by going through the options, backwards or forwards and one at a time, from one that I know is correct ie the baud rate or serial number. I arrived at this situation as follows: I have K3 serial 819 which, until yesterday, has been working fine. It was last updated on 11 September 2008 with MCU 2.38, FPF 0.02 and DSP1 1.90 (I don't have the second RX fitted). Yesterday I tried to update it with the latest firmware: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71 and that is when the problem occurred. The MCU and FPF firmware loaded ok but the DSP 1 showed an error message that it had failed, and displayed ERR DSE. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 several more times and each time got the same error message. I then noticed that when I changed bands I was getting the ERR PL1 message. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 with a different computer and it loaded ok but I still got the ERR PL1 message. ( I am using a serial to USB connector and read in the Reflector archives that this can sometimes cause a propblem when loading firmware to the K3.) I have tried doing the following: 1. Switching the K3 off, waiting five seconds and switching on. 2. Reloading the firmware - the K3 utility program shows it loaded successfully. The program also shows the K3 firmware and Available Firmware are identical: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71. DSP2 and DVR are shown as N/A. 3. Re-calibrating VCO MD - after going through the procedure the display shows E 5 and ERR VCO. 4. Restoring the K3 to the previous configuration. 5. Restoring the K3 to the default options using EE INIT. When I switch the K3 on now, I get the ERR PL1 message. It goes off after a second but reappears each time I change bands. I would be grateful for any other suggestions and/or ideas, please? Thanks and 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended. I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly flexed, so in this case soldering is just as good as crimping. For situations where vibration or movement of the cable is likely (mobile installation for example), then crimping would be the method of choice. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 9:35 AM, Julian, G4ILO wrote: Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just to fit two connectors is unreasonable. Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I've never soldered an APP and have very few problems with them that weren't a function of operator error on my part. I use a set of Klein crimpers. It is important, at least with this particular tool, to carefully re-round the shank and re-align the tongue after crimping. This whole issue is probably more a function of people assuming that the voltage reported by the K3 is actually the supply voltage rather than an internal voltage, than it is to do with APPs. 73 Jack KZ5A K3 #4165 On 3/25/2011 7:28 AM, Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Sorry Guy, I should have said, but yes, I am using the latest version (1.4.1.8) of the K3 Utility program. 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) On 25 Mar 2011 at 9:44, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware, did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before updating the firmware. 73, Guy. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
It's Powerpole not Powerpoll __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Chris, I would try loading ALL the firmware again - using a real serial port if that is possible. You could have a bad USB to serial adapter that corrupted the load. If all else fails, there is always EEINIT - hopefully you have a saved configuration! 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 10:22 AM, Chris Page wrote: Sorry Guy, I should have said, but yes, I am using the latest version (1.4.1.8) of the K3 Utility program. 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) On 25 Mar 2011 at 9:44, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware, did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before updating the firmware. 73, Guy. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Thanks Don but I have tried both loading all the software again,and the EEINIT option! I haven't tried reloading the software from a computer with a proper serial port as I don't have one! 73 de Chris On 25 Mar 2011 at 10:30, Don Wilhelm wrote: Chris, I would try loading ALL the firmware again - using a real serial port if that is possible. You could have a bad USB to serial adapter that corrupted the load. If all else fails, there is always EEINIT - hopefully you have a saved configuration! 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 10:22 AM, Chris Page wrote: Sorry Guy, I should have said, but yes, I am using the latest version (1.4.1.8) of the K3 Utility program. 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) On 25 Mar 2011 at 9:44, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware, did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before updating the firmware. 73, Guy. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
This often indicates that some, but not all of the required firmware files were installed. The menu strings are in the FPF firmware file. There are dependencies between MCU, FPF, and DSP firmware files released at the same time. Install all new firmware, not one at a time Long time, Chris! 73 de Dick, K6KR (ex G0MFO) Dick On Mar 25, 2011, at 6:44, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote: Shooting in the dark, but you did not indicate the version of the K3 utility. Particularly since you went so long without updating the firmware, did you upgrade the K3 utility as well? That would be required before updating the firmware. 73, Guy. On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 9:30 AM, Chris Page ch...@g4bue.com wrote: Help Please! I have researched the Reflector emails and cannot find any postings with a similar problem to the one I have! I do not have a proper readout of either the MENU or CONFIG options on my K3. All the MENU entry names show a row of question marks, although the line above appears to show the actual entry for each function correctly. Some of the CONFIG entry names also show a row of question marks but others shows lettering which does not bear any resemblance to the different functions, (ie the TECH MD function displays LPAGE T and VCO MD (T) displays RQDIGOU). Some of the entry settings appear to be correct but others show an unreadable combination of letters and/or partly formed letters. The only way I know I am in a particular menu function is by going through the options, backwards or forwards and one at a time, from one that I know is correct ie the baud rate or serial number. I arrived at this situation as follows: I have K3 serial 819 which, until yesterday, has been working fine. It was last updated on 11 September 2008 with MCU 2.38, FPF 0.02 and DSP1 1.90 (I don't have the second RX fitted). Yesterday I tried to update it with the latest firmware: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71 and that is when the problem occurred. The MCU and FPF firmware loaded ok but the DSP 1 showed an error message that it had failed, and displayed ERR DSE. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 several more times and each time got the same error message. I then noticed that when I changed bands I was getting the ERR PL1 message. I tried reloading DSP1 2.71 with a different computer and it loaded ok but I still got the ERR PL1 message. ( I am using a serial to USB connector and read in the Reflector archives that this can sometimes cause a propblem when loading firmware to the K3.) I have tried doing the following: 1. Switching the K3 off, waiting five seconds and switching on. 2. Reloading the firmware - the K3 utility program shows it loaded successfully. The program also shows the K3 firmware and Available Firmware are identical: MCU 4.25, FPF 1.14 and DSP 2.71. DSP2 and DVR are shown as N/A. 3. Re-calibrating VCO MD - after going through the procedure the display shows E 5 and ERR VCO. 4. Restoring the K3 to the previous configuration. 5. Restoring the K3 to the default options using EE INIT. When I switch the K3 on now, I get the ERR PL1 message. It goes off after a second but reappears each time I change bands. I would be grateful for any other suggestions and/or ideas, please? Thanks and 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Chris - Unless you are using a laptop, etc, it might be worth adding a COM port to your computer. Most desktop motherboard have a COM header to which can be connected a rear COM plate. OTOH, ensure you have the up-to-date drivers for your USBCOM adapter. There is information about this on the Elecraft website. 73 de David G4DMP G-QRP 11046 ! In a recent message, Chris Page ch...@g4bue.com writes I haven't tried reloading the software from a computer with a proper serial port as I don't have one! -- + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds. | | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk | + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Nate, I think it is ok to solder, but use some thick walled heat shrinking out a distance from the connector to provide some strain relief. This would also hold the poles together. Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nate Bargmann Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:29 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork lift on the planet uses that connector design? How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48 volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation? Crimp the connector as specified! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
20 A with 1.2 volt drop? 24 watts, the connector would melt! Kurt From: vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com To: r...@cobi.biz; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:08:28 +1000 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
Although I soldered the Powerpole connectors for my K3 because I didn't have the appropriate crimping tool, I submit that in general, crimped connections are far more reliable than soldered ones. Try and find a soldered connector pin in an automobile, aircraft or missile. Likewise, swaged (a related process) connections abound in the same applications; hydraulic, A/C and fuel hoses, control cables, etc. As long ago as the 1960s we were crimping the several sections of the TOW missile fuselage together using Magneforming. That said, every time I move my K3 on the desk it disconnects itself. My TS-870 with a Molex connector doesn't. Wes N7WS --- On Thu, 3/24/11, Vic K2VCO v...@rakefet.com wrote: I solder them too. What I do is push the wire up to the top of the contact, heat the little tube, and apply solder to the very top, the part closest to the contact surface. I'm careful to only use a minimum amount of solder. Because I've heated the tube, the solder flows into it, not onto the contact surface. This helps avoid the problem of the solder wicking back into the strands of the wire, making a stiff section right at the connector which can break. I too have never had any problems with these connectors. I solder all kinds of things. It makes me feel secure. Crimps make me nervous. On 3/24/2011 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
I solder crimp connections especially RF. My only question is what harm can it do? In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a typical ham do in a year? At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than climb George, W6GF --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net wrote: From: Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 8:10 AM If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork lift on the planet uses that connector design? How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48 volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation? Crimp the connector as specified! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF
I'm not picking on Paul, this is just a handy place to reply. I'm going to say this one more time (the first time was two years ago). I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy when just changing the K3 Width and Shift controls moves the frequency more than that and this is band dependent. On ten-meters I can listen to a crystal-controlled source and hear the beat note change as Shift and Width are adjusted. Elecraft considers its frequency conversion scheme to be proprietary but it's obvious that not all of the oscillators are moving at the same rate. Wes N7WS --- On Sat, 3/19/11, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote: I installed it on Friday in about 30 minutes, but I'm comfortable with my way around the K3. I would think that most users could install it in about an hour or less. Installation is actually very simple with very few parts involved. K3EXREF came with an SMA connector and SMA to BNC between-series adapter. Performance is exactly as promised by Elecraft. Although K3EXREF will not phase lock the K3 to the external frequency source, I'm finding that it stays within 1 Hz on 20m when locked to CHU at 14.670 MHz. I'm also finding that testing for zero-beat to WWV at 10 MHz is not a good idea in my shack, and perhaps yours too. There are many 10 MHz signals being emitted by nearby appliances, LAN routers, security system, Ethernet boards, etc. That common, even frequency is everywhere in a household these days. In much of North America, CHU is an excellent source for testing since it keeps cesium accuracy like WWV but the odd frequency of CHU is a real benefit since the chance for beating against extraneous signals is much smaller than at 10 MHz. Testing at a higher frequency rather than say the MW broadcast band also provides for a reasonably good account of how the K3EXREF performs. After installation, I would also suggest not trying to test zero beat K3EXREF against commercial MW or SW BC stations since their carriers are allowed to deviate much more than the cesium-based time and frequency standards of CHU and WWV. Commercial AM broadcast station frequencies are typically only accurate to about +/- 20 Hz although most are better than that. The K3's 49 MHz oscillator is only adjusted at intervals between 4 and 8 seconds by K3EXREF in order to minimize jitter. The K3 retains its original phase noise performance since the external reference is not used internal to the K3's frequency generating scheme. Think of it this way -- K3EXREF is like lightly touching the 49 MHz oscillator with a feather every few seconds if necessary to keep it within 1 Hz or so. Also, the K3 frequency stays accurate even at the moment of powering up the K3. Kinda' fun to watch the 49 MHz oscillator display change during warm-up as it's being corrected and compared against the external reference. External references: There are three primary types, and all can be purchased for less than USD $150 on the used market. Cesium standards (a fourth type) are also available but are generally much more expensive, complicated, and won't offer any benefit to K3 users since K3EXREF limits resolution and accuracy to about 1 Hz. The first type is the GPS Disciplined Oscillator (GPS-DO). This type of standard locks itself onto the visible GPS satellites orbiting the sky. Requires a GPS antenna and is self-calibrating to the GPS satellites. The GPS-DO's time and frequency averages from the visible satellites, each satellite having it's own on-board cesium-based oscillator. Long-term accuracy is usually good to at least 1 x 10^-11. Extreme accuracy and only a magnitude or two behind cesium. Look for Hewlett-Packard Z3801A, Z3816A, Trimble Thunderbolt, Brandywine, Symmetricon, and Datum models. Short list, but many others available. Rubidium is the next type. No GPS tracking needed. Accuracy commensurate with GPS-DO. No antenna required. Long-term performance is highly dependent on the quality of the optical beam from the rubidium pump lamp. Look for EF Efratom, Datum, Third, is a high quality oven-controlled crystal oscillator (OCXO). Requires periodic calibration. Accuracy good to at least +/- 0.05 ppm and offer the best phase noise performance among the three types of oscillators, but as noted earlier, the excellent phase noise attributes of the OCXO will not be carried over to the K3. A shack reference oscillator is good for use with other equipment too (e.g., frequency counter). Although a bit lossy, I currectly use a Mini-Circuits passive three-way splitter, but one can purchase a distribution amp to feed many pieces of equipment from a single oscillator. Unlike the splitter, a DA offers unity gain and very high port isolation. Finally, be mindful that most GPS-DO and rubidium units use
Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan
Hi all. I also agree with David. Building the K2 kit is what I was looking for the most. It is FUN to build. It has all the features I need and am going to use. While I am building the kit I do learn some stuff but if I make a mistake and have to fix and test parts, that is when I learn a lot IMHO. I build the K1 a little while back and the build was awesome but the learning part for me was also the setup as stated by others. As far as life span goes. There are many, many older rigs out there with tubes and such that are still in use and probably will be for many years to come. As far as the K2 goes, if it has the features on it that I need, and it keeps on working. I'll use it for life. I believe it is selling good so they should be selling the K2 for quite some time I would imagine. I have only been licensed for about 3 years but an enthusiasts for some time now and the reasons I just stated is why I went with the K2 myself. I believe The K2 has a very nice life span left and I hope to use it till I am old and gray :-) Actually the gray has started two years ago! I also love when I show off my kits that I build to family, friends and hams. They are all so amazed that I could build something like the K1 and the many other kits that I have built and they all work properly. I hope to soon finish the K2 and amaze them with that awesome little rig too. Just my two cents. 73 de W2EEC Eric On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 5:43 AM, david aj...@arrl.net wrote: On Thu, 2011-03-24 at 12:00 -0400, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote: I agree. The kitbuilding of the K2 was the main reason I went with it and not the K3. 73, David AJ4TF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
I am not an electronics expert, but I work closely with someone who spent 40 years installing custom electronic equipment in commercial and military aircraft. Approaching PowerPoles from the perspective of a novice, it has been my experience that PowerPoles take some learning to properly assemble. There are times when I thought I had it but I actually did not. However, once I finally learned how to do it, everything works just fine with no heating and no significant voltage drop. The connector has to snap in place into the housing, if it does not something is wrong. Usually either the contact is upside down or the crimp or soldered connector became deformed. The main advantage of a PowerPole is that it can be reconnected for all practical purposes an unlimited number of times without degrading the contact. Further, the contacts are well protected greatly reducing the chance of an unintended short. These features plus the fact that PowerPole connections are standardized and modular make them popular in EmComm and other field work, where equipment must be frequently assembled and disassembled in the field. Life in the field is a great deal safer and simpler if everyone is using PowerPoles. If you need to move your rig into someone else's vehicle, all you have to do is plug your equipment with PowerPole connectors into their PowerPole system. I have been taught that properly applied crimp connections are better and more reliable than solder connections. My electronics expert agrees with this position. My expert friend objects to PowerPole connectors because they have no positive lock and could easily become disconnected. That would certainly be a huge issue in aircraft electronics. I don't have such critical uses so I don't worry about an inadvertent disconnect. For anything serious, the PowerPole connection can be secured either with zip ties or some plastic locking inserts they supply. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of george fritkin Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:39 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector I solder crimp connections especially RF. My only question is what harm can it do? In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a typical ham do in a year? At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than climb George, W6GF --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net wrote: From: Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 8:10 AM If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork lift on the planet uses that connector design? How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48 volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation? Crimp the connector as specified! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
The only problem I have had with the Anderson Powerpoles is from my installing the connectors. I will lose the 12 volts to a piece of gear and it always boils down to the same thing. The leaf didn't snap over the mating piece inside the connector. Looking in at the end of the connector I can see that it didn't slide down completely. If I can't snap it all the way in with my fingers I place the connector vertically on the bench and insert a small flat blade screwdriver and push down on the edge of the leaf until it snaps. Now I always check the connector after assembly to make sure it has snapped in properly. Bob K6UJ On Mar 25, 2011, at 10:02 AM, George A. Thornton wrote: I am not an electronics expert, but I work closely with someone who spent 40 years installing custom electronic equipment in commercial and military aircraft. Approaching PowerPoles from the perspective of a novice, it has been my experience that PowerPoles take some learning to properly assemble. There are times when I thought I had it but I actually did not. However, once I finally learned how to do it, everything works just fine with no heating and no significant voltage drop. The connector has to snap in place into the housing, if it does not something is wrong. Usually either the contact is upside down or the crimp or soldered connector became deformed. The main advantage of a PowerPole is that it can be reconnected for all practical purposes an unlimited number of times without degrading the contact. Further, the contacts are well protected greatly reducing the chance of an unintended short. These features plus the fact that PowerPole connections are standardized and modular make them popular in EmComm and other field work, where equipment must be frequently assembled and disassembled in the field. Life in the field is a great deal safer and simpler if everyone is using PowerPoles. If you need to move your rig into someone else's vehicle, all you have to do is plug your equipment with PowerPole connectors into their PowerPole system. I have been taught that properly applied crimp connections are better and more reliable than solder connections. My electronics expert agrees with this position. My expert friend objects to PowerPole connectors because they have no positive lock and could easily become disconnected. That would certainly be a huge issue in aircraft electronics. I don't have such critical uses so I don't worry about an inadvertent disconnect. For anything serious, the PowerPole connection can be secured either with zip ties or some plastic locking inserts they supply. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of george fritkin Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:39 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector I solder crimp connections especially RF. My only question is what harm can it do? In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a typical ham do in a year? At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than climb George, W6GF --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net wrote: From: Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 8:10 AM If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork lift on the planet uses that connector design? How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48 volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation? Crimp the connector as specified! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto: This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
If you use the 45A contacts and AWG 10 wire, you either have to use the proper crimp tool or solder very carefully. The barrel of these contacts just barely fits in the shell, and won't if it's either distorted or has solder on the outside. If you don't have the crimp tool, just solder carefully and, if necessary, file off the excess. If you try to crimp it with the wrong tool, it will never fit. The smaller contacts aren't such a problem, but they won't work with AWG 10. Aside from the extra time it takes, the only down side I can see to soldering is that the solder wicks up the wire a ways and makes it brittle, so you need to make sure the wire doesn't flex a lot near the connector. 73, Scott K9MA Scott Ellington Madison, Wisconsin USA On Mar 25, 2011, at 12:02 PM, George A. Thornton wrote: I am not an electronics expert, but I work closely with someone who spent 40 years installing custom electronic equipment in commercial and military aircraft. Approaching PowerPoles from the perspective of a novice, it has been my experience that PowerPoles take some learning to properly assemble. There are times when I thought I had it but I actually did not. However, once I finally learned how to do it, everything works just fine with no heating and no significant voltage drop. The connector has to snap in place into the housing, if it does not something is wrong. Usually either the contact is upside down or the crimp or soldered connector became deformed. The main advantage of a PowerPole is that it can be reconnected for all practical purposes an unlimited number of times without degrading the contact. Further, the contacts are well protected greatly reducing the chance of an unintended short. These features plus the fact that PowerPole connections are standardized and modular make them popular in EmComm and other field work, where equipment must be frequently assembled and disassembled in the field. Life in the field is a great deal safer and simpler if everyone is using PowerPoles. If you need to move your rig into someone else's vehicle, all you have to do is plug your equipment with PowerPole connectors into their PowerPole system. I have been taught that properly applied crimp connections are better and more reliable than solder connections. My electronics expert agrees with this position. My expert friend objects to PowerPole connectors because they have no positive lock and could easily become disconnected. That would certainly be a huge issue in aircraft electronics. I don't have such critical uses so I don't worry about an inadvertent disconnect. For anything serious, the PowerPole connection can be secured either with zip ties or some plastic locking inserts they supply. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of george fritkin Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:39 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector I solder crimp connections especially RF. My only question is what harm can it do? In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a typical ham do in a year? At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than climb George, W6GF --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net wrote: From: Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 8:10 AM If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork lift on the planet uses that connector design? How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48 volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation? Crimp the connector as specified! _ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF
Wes Stewart wrote: I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy Because so many customers asked for it. I'll leave it to them to list their reasons, but in my case, I like being dead-on over a wide range of temperatures without having to occasionally recheck my manual REF CAL setting using a beat note with WWV. when just changing the K3 Width and Shift controls moves the frequency more than that SHIFT and WIDTH move the I.F. by an accurate amount, and should not introduce any error in the operating frequency beyond that of normal DDS granularity, which can be +/- 1 Hz or so depending on the band. On ten-meters I can listen to a crystal-controlled source and hear the beat note change as Shift and Width are adjusted. That is due to DDS granularity. There is no such error where phase coherency really counts--in diversity mode. In that case the two synthesizers are always phase-locked as long as the crystal filter offsets are matched. Elecraft considers its frequency conversion scheme to be proprietary but it's obvious that not all of the oscillators are moving at the same rate. They are all subject to our DDS step size of aprox. 1/5th Hz. In diversity mode the DDS words are identical, but in other cases the two synths can be off by this amount in either direction, resulting in a small tuning error that is proportional to operating frequency. It amounts to about +/- 1 Hz. 73, Wayne __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
We've had excellent results with APP connectors in our products, soldered or crimped, and we will not be switching to anything different or changing our instructions. I wish I could say the same for *other* power connectors we've tried in the past. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
The good thing about this problem... 0 amps at 0 voltage drop :-). Bill K9YEQ K9YEQ K2 and KX1 field tester, K3, P3, K1 and modules -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Harmon Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 12:45 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector The only problem I have had with the Anderson Powerpoles is from my installing the connectors. I will lose the 12 volts to a piece of gear and it always boils down to the same thing. The leaf didn't snap over the mating piece inside the connector. Looking in at the end of the connector I can see that it didn't slide down completely. If I can't snap it all the way in with my fingers I place the connector vertically on the bench and insert a small flat blade screwdriver and push down on the edge of the leaf until it snaps. Now I always check the connector after assembly to make sure it has snapped in properly. Bob K6UJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
On 3/25/2011 10:46 AM, Scott Ellington wrote: If you use the 45A contacts and AWG 10 wire, you either have to use the proper crimp tool or solder very carefully. Yes, the 45A contacts for the small series of Power Poles that we use are a real challenge to get right. I've built a lot of patch cables using them, most of them accompanied by cursing. But I like these connectors a lot. Agreed that they don't lock, but this isn't a problem in most ham installations. 73, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
In the aerospace, marine and land-based commercial electronics industry firms I worked with, we shifted from soldering to crimping for two reasons: 1) Crimping is faster than soldering and, if done correctly, yields a reliable electrical connection. 2) Soldering requires more training to use soldering tools properly than does a crimp tool, soldering is slower and it requires an environment where it's safe to do so. Bottom line is that, in many situations, crimping is more cost-effective in a manufacturing environment and it's easier to train workers to make properly crimped connections. But, when done properly, soldering is at least as good. But beware: just because you can tug on the wires and they don't come loose, that does not mean you have a good crimp or a good solder joint. A crimped connection must have a large part of the connector squashed so tightly against the wire that all air is excluded over a large surface area where the wire and connector touch. Similarly, soldering requires that solder flow and bond a large part of the wire and connector together. Novices often have a nice looking solder fillet where the wire exits, but no solder inside the connector bonding the length of the wire inside to the connector. Bad crimps often produce a tight bond over only a small area of wire. In either case that forces the current through a smaller cross-section where the wire and connector touch. The increased resistance drops voltage and produces heat. Heat promotes corrosion in the surrounding areas until the connection fails - either the wire becomes brittle and breaks out of a crimp or it melts the solder. In extreme cases the connector shell itself may deform or melt. Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
* On 2011 25 Mar 08:50 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended. I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly flexed, so in this case soldering is just as good as crimping. For situations where vibration or movement of the cable is likely (mobile installation for example), then crimping would be the method of choice. Exactly. My installations of crimp connectors have been mainly in mobile environments (specifically RF Industries PL-259 connectors for RG-58 cable) and to date after several years, not one failure in railroad trucks and on track equipment, an environment which is not known for being gentle on anything. 73, de Nate N0NB -- The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true. Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Powerpoles
They've work well for me ... never a problem. I have a RIGrunner 4008H fused distribution box from West Mountain Radio that makes my 12 VDC distribution neat n tidy. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Option to have VOX band independent
Jim - I've asked before for it to be mode dependent. It's on the listsomewhere :-D I use it for everything except phone, I prefer a foot switch there. 73, Mike NF4L On 3/25/2011 7:27 AM, Jim McDonald wrote: Unless I'm missing something, the state of the K3 VOX as on or off is retained when changing bands. My preference would be to be able to set it independent of band with a menu or config setting. I always use it and sometimes QSK for CW, always use it for SSB, and it's irrelevant on FSK. (I don't use AFSK or PSK.) I switch it off when just listening on SSB so I don't accidentally trip it. That behavior is the same regardless of band. I sometimes use a macro in DXLab's Commander to turn VOX on and off, since it's quicker than press and hold on the K3 Band switch. I also like to minimize wear and tear on a button/switch. Nonetheless, it would still be more convenient for me to have the equivalent of an old fashioned on/off switch. Jim N7US __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
I like the APP for the main power connector on the K3, but having the 12VDC OUT and the PTT IN connector the same seems a Murphy-proofing fail. The fuse is very likely to fail before the device that's supposed to drive PTT IN, but Where is that fuse, anyway? 73, doug On 25-Mar-11 10:50, Wayne Burdick wrote: We've had excellent results with APP connectors in our products, soldered or crimped, and we will not be switching to anything different or changing our instructions. I wish I could say the same for *other* power connectors we've tried in the past. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: FS ONV safety belt for tower climbing
I have for sale one used (in good condition) W2ONV (now just ONV since W2ONV's passing in 2007) climbing belt with seat strap and attached lanyard. Picture and new price ($159.95) can be seen at the included URL It is size Large. Very comfortable to use compared to some other belts harnesses. At age 69, not supposed to be climbing my tower anymore, so selling the belt to eliminate the temptation to do my own antenna work - LOL. Asking $65 shipped anywhere in the US via USPS flat rate shipping. Contact me off list if interested. I'll take check, money order or PayPal (add 4 percent). Ships today if payment by PayPal. Jim Sheldon - W0EB 2029 East Evanston Dr. Park City, KS 67219 316-744-3022 w...@cox.net http://www.onvsafetybelt.com/buy.asp?p_id=003 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware Problem - No Proper Menu Readout
Thanks Gary and Wayne. I'm pleased to report that deleting and then downloading the files again from Elecraft to my computer and then re-loading them into the K3, cleared the problem with the MENU and CONFIG redout. I then did a VCO MD calibration and this cleared the ERR PL1 problem. All appears to now be working again. Thanks to Gary and Wayne plus G4DMP, K2AV and W3FPR for their helpful suggestions. Yet another example of what a wonderful Reflector this is. 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE) On 25 Mar 2011 at 9:29, Dick Dievendorff wrote: That is something to try. Delete the .hex files in the firmware folder and fetch them again with the K3Utility. That sounds the most likely.I wouldn't think it likely that the FP board suddenly failed. Although inability to write the serial EEPROM component might have symptoms like this. Dick On Mar 25, 2011, at 9:21, Gary Surrency g...@elecraft.com wrote: Dick, I've never seen one quite like that. Sounds like a good case for an EEINIT (parameter initialization as called in the K3 manual). If it still is not right, the f/w files may have been corrupt and needs to be downloaded fresh from our site and reloaded into the K3. If still a no go, the front panel board should be replaced. --73, Gary AB7M __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF
Glad you're going to give it a rest. N5GE On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:45:31 -0700 (PDT), Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote: I'm not picking on Paul, this is just a handy place to reply. I'm going to say this one more time (the first time was two years ago). I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy when just changing the K3 Width and Shift controls moves the frequency more than that and this is band dependent. On ten-meters I can listen to a crystal-controlled source and hear the beat note change as Shift and Width are adjusted. Elecraft considers its frequency conversion scheme to be proprietary but it's obvious that not all of the oscillators are moving at the same rate. Wes N7WS --- On Sat, 3/19/11, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote: I installed it on Friday in about 30 minutes, but I'm comfortable with my way around the K3. I would think that most users could install it in about an hour or less. Installation is actually very simple with very few parts involved. K3EXREF came with an SMA connector and SMA to BNC between-series adapter. Performance is exactly as promised by Elecraft. Although K3EXREF will not phase lock the K3 to the external frequency source, I'm finding that it stays within 1 Hz on 20m when locked to CHU at 14.670 MHz. I'm also finding that testing for zero-beat to WWV at 10 MHz is not a good idea in my shack, and perhaps yours too. There are many 10 MHz signals being emitted by nearby appliances, LAN routers, security system, Ethernet boards, etc. That common, even frequency is everywhere in a household these days. In much of North America, CHU is an excellent source for testing since it keeps cesium accuracy like WWV but the odd frequency of CHU is a real benefit since the chance for beating against extraneous signals is much smaller than at 10 MHz. Testing at a higher frequency rather than say the MW broadcast band also provides for a reasonably good account of how the K3EXREF performs. After installation, I would also suggest not trying to test zero beat K3EXREF against commercial MW or SW BC stations since their carriers are allowed to deviate much more than the cesium-based time and frequency standards of CHU and WWV. Commercial AM broadcast station frequencies are typically only accurate to about +/- 20 Hz although most are better than that. The K3's 49 MHz oscillator is only adjusted at intervals between 4 and 8 seconds by K3EXREF in order to minimize jitter. The K3 retains its original phase noise performance since the external reference is not used internal to the K3's frequency generating scheme. Think of it this way -- K3EXREF is like lightly touching the 49 MHz oscillator with a feather every few seconds if necessary to keep it within 1 Hz or so. Also, the K3 frequency stays accurate even at the moment of powering up the K3. Kinda' fun to watch the 49 MHz oscillator display change during warm-up as it's being corrected and compared against the external reference. External references: There are three primary types, and all can be purchased for less than USD $150 on the used market. Cesium standards (a fourth type) are also available but are generally much more expensive, complicated, and won't offer any benefit to K3 users since K3EXREF limits resolution and accuracy to about 1 Hz. The first type is the GPS Disciplined Oscillator (GPS-DO). This type of standard locks itself onto the visible GPS satellites orbiting the sky. Requires a GPS antenna and is self-calibrating to the GPS satellites. The GPS-DO's time and frequency averages from the visible satellites, each satellite having it's own on-board cesium-based oscillator. Long-term accuracy is usually good to at least 1 x 10^-11. Extreme accuracy and only a magnitude or two behind cesium. Look for Hewlett-Packard Z3801A, Z3816A, Trimble Thunderbolt, Brandywine, Symmetricon, and Datum models. Short list, but many others available. Rubidium is the next type. No GPS tracking needed. Accuracy commensurate with GPS-DO. No antenna required. Long-term performance is highly dependent on the quality of the optical beam from the rubidium pump lamp. Look for EF Efratom, Datum, Third, is a high quality oven-controlled crystal oscillator (OCXO). Requires periodic calibration. Accuracy good to at least +/- 0.05 ppm and offer the best phase noise performance among the three types of oscillators, but as noted earlier, the excellent phase noise attributes of the OCXO will not be carried over to the K3. A shack reference oscillator is good for use with other equipment too (e.g., frequency counter). Although a bit lossy, I currectly use a Mini-Circuits passive three-way splitter, but one can purchase a distribution amp to feed many pieces of equipment from a single oscillator. Unlike the splitter,
[Elecraft] SOLD*****OT: FS: Used ONV safety belt for tower climbing
Must be some kind of record - the belt was sold within 5 minutes of posting the For Sale! W0EB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] For Sale: XV432
Hi Gang, I built this transverter last year for the VHF/UHF contests and it was aligned by Elecraft service. (The power module was bad out of the box, hence the repair and alignment.) It puts out full power and works great with my FT-817. I've decided to give up performance for simplicity in my rover and will go with a Swiss Army Knife like solution (TS-2000). It is yours for $375 shipped UPS ground to the lower 48 with full insurance. PayPal or money order are good. It is time to get ready for the Spring Sprints and the June VHF contest! Photo available on request. 73, Mark K2QO K2 #543 FN03ra __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF
You should try it. --- On Fri, 3/25/11, n...@n5ge.com n...@n5ge.com wrote: From: n...@n5ge.com n...@n5ge.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 1:02 PM Glad you're going to give it a rest. N5GE On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:45:31 -0700 (PDT), Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote: I'm not picking on Paul, this is just a handy place to reply. I'm going to say this one more time (the first time was two years ago). I really don't understand all of the fuss about 1 Hz accuracy when just changing the K3 Width and Shift controls moves the frequency more than that and this is band dependent. On ten-meters I can listen to a crystal-controlled source and hear the beat note change as Shift and Width are adjusted. Elecraft considers its frequency conversion scheme to be proprietary but it's obvious that not all of the oscillators are moving at the same rate. Wes N7WS --- On Sat, 3/19/11, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote: I installed it on Friday in about 30 minutes, but I'm comfortable with my way around the K3. I would think that most users could install it in about an hour or less. Installation is actually very simple with very few parts involved. K3EXREF came with an SMA connector and SMA to BNC between-series adapter. Performance is exactly as promised by Elecraft. Although K3EXREF will not phase lock the K3 to the external frequency source, I'm finding that it stays within 1 Hz on 20m when locked to CHU at 14.670 MHz. I'm also finding that testing for zero-beat to WWV at 10 MHz is not a good idea in my shack, and perhaps yours too. There are many 10 MHz signals being emitted by nearby appliances, LAN routers, security system, Ethernet boards, etc. That common, even frequency is everywhere in a household these days. In much of North America, CHU is an excellent source for testing since it keeps cesium accuracy like WWV but the odd frequency of CHU is a real benefit since the chance for beating against extraneous signals is much smaller than at 10 MHz. Testing at a higher frequency rather than say the MW broadcast band also provides for a reasonably good account of how the K3EXREF performs. After installation, I would also suggest not trying to test zero beat K3EXREF against commercial MW or SW BC stations since their carriers are allowed to deviate much more than the cesium-based time and frequency standards of CHU and WWV. Commercial AM broadcast station frequencies are typically only accurate to about +/- 20 Hz although most are better than that. The K3's 49 MHz oscillator is only adjusted at intervals between 4 and 8 seconds by K3EXREF in order to minimize jitter. The K3 retains its original phase noise performance since the external reference is not used internal to the K3's frequency generating scheme. Think of it this way -- K3EXREF is like lightly touching the 49 MHz oscillator with a feather every few seconds if necessary to keep it within 1 Hz or so. Also, the K3 frequency stays accurate even at the moment of powering up the K3. Kinda' fun to watch the 49 MHz oscillator display change during warm-up as it's being corrected and compared against the external reference. External references: There are three primary types, and all can be purchased for less than USD $150 on the used market. Cesium standards (a fourth type) are also available but are generally much more expensive, complicated, and won't offer any benefit to K3 users since K3EXREF limits resolution and accuracy to about 1 Hz. The first type is the GPS Disciplined Oscillator (GPS-DO). This type of standard locks itself onto the visible GPS satellites orbiting the sky. Requires a GPS antenna and is self-calibrating to the GPS satellites. The GPS-DO's time and frequency averages from the visible satellites, each satellite having it's own on-board cesium-based oscillator. Long-term accuracy is usually good to at least 1 x 10^-11. Extreme accuracy and only a magnitude or two behind cesium. Look for Hewlett-Packard Z3801A, Z3816A, Trimble Thunderbolt, Brandywine, Symmetricon, and Datum models. Short list, but many others available. Rubidium is the next type. No GPS tracking needed. Accuracy commensurate with GPS-DO. No antenna required. Long-term performance is highly dependent on the quality of the optical beam from the rubidium pump lamp. Look for EF Efratom, Datum, Third, is a high quality oven-controlled crystal oscillator (OCXO). Requires periodic calibration. Accuracy good to at least +/- 0.05 ppm and offer the best phase noise performance among the three types of oscillators, but as noted earlier, the
[Elecraft] Anderson Power Pole Connectors
I have been using APPs for ten years when I built my first K2. I have used APP connectors on two K2s and two K3s. All cables to APP connectors have been soldered in. I have never had a problem. If the cables are soldered correctly to each insert; and the inserts are snapped in to the red and black housings, these connections should make good contact and last a lifetime. Roy Morris W4WFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem
I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used with PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN. PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. Also happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and will not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse. Has anyone else noticed? Steve N4LQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan
Shane perhaps you are reading that folk are as passionate about their K2's as those that have K3's - likely for differing reasons. If you think about the rigs we had 15-20 years ago - both rock! I have owned a K2 for 10 years, and enjoyed operating a K3 twice at field day. both are rather compact rigs vs. the big boxes that many (but not all) contest enthusiasts like. to some, whether the rig was built in a factory or your kitchen table doesn't matter. Others of us grew up reading QST when a large percentage of the population built their rigs - either from a kit or from parts from a disposed TV set. I figure lifespan of sale will depend upon when Elecraft runs out of parts for it, and even then a mixed thru-hole SMT hybrid could be conceived (maybe!). I especially enjoy my K2 on CW - the variable crystal filter can be configured to act similar to a four-position DSP when well aligned - and the receive audio for CW sounds nice and clean. now that I think about it, the rig I have with DSP is almost always set for 300 or 400 Hz when doing CW. When 'old technology' has the right virtues it works fine. 73 Curt PS - maybe when field day rolls around someone will have an Elecraft rig that you can try ! or ask what hams in your local club might have that you could try on a visit. - Original Message From: Shane software.research.developm...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wed, March 23, 2011 11:05:05 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan Hi, Hope this list is for questions like this, apologies if not. Never used an Elecraft, thinking about getting a K2, and was wondering what people thought about it, especially at this time, 11 years later. Looks like it came out in 2000? I like the reviews and I don't think I'm advanced enough for a K3 so, just wanted to hear what others though about the life on this rig. Will it be replaced anytime soon? Thanks, __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] paddle key training
Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W2 - no comm with PC
I have a previously working W2 that was relocated within my house to my new shack location. The W2 utility cannot locate the unit. I've tried different USB/Serial adapters but cannot see the unit from the PC (Windoze Vista - current updates) The unit functions perfectly!! the LED's show my power out, reflected power SWR just fine, except I cannot get the utility to work --- Yes, The utility was working before the move I've tried different different USB ports on the PC to try to isolate the anomoly, to no avail ... any ideas, other than sending the unit out the Calif ... thanks 73 Roger -- KI4YQT QCWA #35380 SKCC # 7427 Skywarn POL-482 ARRL VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Right handed, BY-1 dits on left.. Go to YouTube and search on iambic keyer. 73, Mike NF4L On 3/25/2011 6:56 PM, John Cooper wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Push paddle right for dits and left for dahs - based on decades of using a conventional right-handed semi-automatic key (bug). I was a bit surprised when, a few years ago, I started hearing about people using the reverse but it makes sense - anything so easily changed will be changed by someone. The old rationale that there was less fatigue launching the mechanism to make dots when it was done by the thumb doesn't apply to paddles. (Actually there are bugs for left-handed people that are reversed too). I'm sure there are more techniques with paddles since they can be made to respond to a whisper touch so the old roll the wrist action that was common on bugs to avoid fatigue no longer applies, but I've never pursued them. Indeed, I seldom use the paddles - I prefer the bug :-) Have fun John! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:56:09 -0500 John Cooper w...@gt.rr.com wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y I send right handed and the left paddle is dits, right paddle dahs. Just like my bug. -- R. Kevin Stover AC0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2 - no comm with PC
I had that happen once I think it was the USB to Serial connector that took a dump. Do you have another one to try? Before that Try restarting your computer. If that doesn't work, go to Start, Control Panel, System, Hardware and look to see if the device shows up with informational mark next to it. (Yellow Exclamation) or some red marking, or an unknown device. If any of those are found you can right click and uninstall. Then go to Action tab and in the drop down and rescan for changes. If it reinstalls the same way, the right click on the device and then navigate to a driver disc to install (assuming you have a disk). If that doesn't work... Go to Windows update in the control panel and check for downloads to see if the device is listed. If none of that works, then refer to my first sentence. More than you wanted to know??? Probably... but now I won't have to retype this process again in the future. Bill K9YEQ K9YEQ K2 and KX1 field tester, K3, P3, K1 and modules -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of roger shirko Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 6:02 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] W2 - no comm with PC I have a previously working W2 that was relocated within my house to my new shack location. The W2 utility cannot locate the unit. I've tried different USB/Serial adapters but cannot see the unit from the PC (Windoze Vista - current updates) The unit functions perfectly!! the LED's show my power out, reflected power SWR just fine, except I cannot get the utility to work --- Yes, The utility was working before the move I've tried different different USB ports on the PC to try to isolate the anomoly, to no avail ... any ideas, other than sending the unit out the Calif ... thanks 73 Roger -- KI4YQT QCWA #35380 SKCC # 7427 Skywarn POL-482 ARRL VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem
Steve, I just tried this and I get something a little different. The mute button did not come on when I controlled RIT and XIT directly from the radio. But with N1MM open and the command for CLEARRIT executes then the MUTE button on PowerSDR does come on. 73 Greg On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 3:26 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.comwrote: I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used with PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN. PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. Also happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and will not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse. Has anyone else noticed? Steve N4LQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
On 3/25/2011 3:56 PM, John Cooper wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. Wow John, you are going to get as many opinions as there are people who read your post! :-) I wouldn't be too surprised if one or two also assert their answers are right and all the rest are wrong. [;-)) I don't know of any videos on the I'net, and given the above, they probably would convey just one person's opinion anyway, and YMMV. Here's mine: I'm left-handed but, like most southpaws, can [and have to, sometimes] do things right handed, it's called Tyranny of the Majority. Try a hand operated can opener left-handed. We conducted a survey here about 4 or 5 years ago, and while roughly half of the southies paddled north, less than 1% of the northpaws paddled south. Apparently we lefties are far more adaptable than our right-handed brethren [and sistren]. So, you first have to figure out if you're right or left-handed. Once you have that ... A standard right-handed bug has the dots on the thumb and dashes on the fingers. You could buy left-handed bugs, maybe still can, but they were more expensive. My Elmer was left-handed too, but he taught me to send right so I could write in my log with my left. When I graduated to an old WW2 surplus Lionel J-36, I used it right-handed. I still usually paddle right, dots on the thumb. I can and sometimes do paddle left. Generally this is when using someone else's rig who paddles south. It doesn't seem to matter much if he has dots on the thumb or fingers, I get used to it right away. I've also seen right-handers turn a left-handed paddle around, put their hand over the paddle and work it just fine. The message: Do what works for you, there is no 'right' answer. If you're a leftie and think you might have frequent occasion to use someone else's paddle [FD, county expeditions, etc], the odds are about 80-85 out of 100 if he is male that he will be right-handed and have it set up north with dots on the thumb. The odds he will be male are about 99 out of 100. In that case, you might want to just learn to paddle right with dots on the thumb. Again though, it's like boats ... whatever floats yours will work just fine. Enjoy your K2, enjoy being in a fairly small world-wide group that converse in Morse code. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Left handed folks generally prefer dit on the right. Anyone have statistics on that? Right handers use dits on the left. However some CW ops have said in the past that they send with their left hand and log with their right. I suppose left handed folks would do the oposite. Tom N5GE On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:56:09 -0500, John Cooper w...@gt.rr.com wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
*To everybody, I AM WRONG, so sayeth everyone who tries to use my paddle...Grin* * * *You guessed it folks...My Dits are on the LEFT and DAH's on the right.* * * *But then I AM different, I also live in 'The Land Downunder' where the water in the toilet bowl swirls opposite to the US...is that wrong too...Grin* * * *Aaaah...Dare to be different I say!* * * *OK, back to my backwards CW I go!* * * *As a very good mate has told me often..'It's not me, it's the OTHERS you have to watch...all the time'* * * *73's* *Gary * On 26 March 2011 09:41, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote: On 3/25/2011 3:56 PM, John Cooper wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. Wow John, you are going to get as many opinions as there are people who read your post! :-) I wouldn't be too surprised if one or two also assert their answers are right and all the rest are wrong. [;-)) I don't know of any videos on the I'net, and given the above, they probably would convey just one person's opinion anyway, and YMMV. Here's mine: I'm left-handed but, like most southpaws, can [and have to, sometimes] do things right handed, it's called Tyranny of the Majority. Try a hand operated can opener left-handed. We conducted a survey here about 4 or 5 years ago, and while roughly half of the southies paddled north, less than 1% of the northpaws paddled south. Apparently we lefties are far more adaptable than our right-handed brethren [and sistren]. So, you first have to figure out if you're right or left-handed. Once you have that ... A standard right-handed bug has the dots on the thumb and dashes on the fingers. You could buy left-handed bugs, maybe still can, but they were more expensive. My Elmer was left-handed too, but he taught me to send right so I could write in my log with my left. When I graduated to an old WW2 surplus Lionel J-36, I used it right-handed. I still usually paddle right, dots on the thumb. I can and sometimes do paddle left. Generally this is when using someone else's rig who paddles south. It doesn't seem to matter much if he has dots on the thumb or fingers, I get used to it right away. I've also seen right-handers turn a left-handed paddle around, put their hand over the paddle and work it just fine. The message: Do what works for you, there is no 'right' answer. If you're a leftie and think you might have frequent occasion to use someone else's paddle [FD, county expeditions, etc], the odds are about 80-85 out of 100 if he is male that he will be right-handed and have it set up north with dots on the thumb. The odds he will be male are about 99 out of 100. In that case, you might want to just learn to paddle right with dots on the thumb. Again though, it's like boats ... whatever floats yours will work just fine. Enjoy your K2, enjoy being in a fairly small world-wide group that converse in Morse code. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!!* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Thumb on right paddle makes dits. Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles around backwards and reach over the top. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
*Ken..the FW will reverse it too.* * * *Gary * On 26 March 2011 09:49, Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com wrote: Thumb on right paddle makes dits. Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles around backwards and reach over the top. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!!* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
You have gotten some good info already, but let me show you an example of some of my favorite types of answers here: Forget about the paddles, you need to use a straight key. 73, Tony W7GO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
*Or slack key :-)* *Gary * On 26 March 2011 09:57, Tony Morgan 1desertdwel...@gmail.com wrote: You have gotten some good info already, but let me show you an example of some of my favorite types of answers here: Forget about the paddles, you need to use a straight key. 73, Tony W7GO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- *VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!!* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Both of my parents were naturally left-handed. My dad golfed and bowled as a lefty but wrote with his right. I wish I had his penmanship. My mom also wrote right-handed. She learned that after the good nuns in the convent where my grandmother left her would hit her fingers with the edge of a ruler if she even touched her pencil with her left hand. Her penmanship wasn't so great but her aversion to religion was. Wes N7WS --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote: From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net I'm left-handed but, like most southpaws, can [and have to, sometimes] do things right handed, it's called Tyranny of the Majority. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2 - no comm with PC
A couple of ideas: verify that the plug is in the right jack on the back of the W2. And does the USB to serial adapter work with another device? Like a K3? Dick, K6KR On Mar 25, 2011, at 16:02, roger shirko roger_shi...@yahoo.com wrote: I have a previously working W2 that was relocated within my house to my new shack location. The W2 utility cannot locate the unit. I've tried different USB/Serial adapters but cannot see the unit from the PC (Windoze Vista - current updates) The unit functions perfectly!! the LED's show my power out, reflected power SWR just fine, except I cannot get the utility to work --- Yes, The utility was working before the move I've tried different different USB ports on the PC to try to isolate the anomoly, to no avail ... any ideas, other than sending the unit out the Calif ... thanks 73 Roger -- KI4YQT QCWA #35380 SKCC # 7427 Skywarn POL-482 ARRL VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Rework Eliminators
Hello, I'm getting ready to FINALLY start my K2 build, so have been reviewing the manual as well as some searches on the reflector. I came across discussions regarding the Rework Eliminator headers. This seemed like a great idea, since I have several options in the ready after I complete the basic K2. But, it appears that the RE's have been discontinued on the website, www.unpcbs.com. I was wondering if anyone has a set they'd be willing to part with or any other ideas on how to avoid the rework as I add options? Thanks, Russ W9EL -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Rework-Eliminators-tp6209594p6209594.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Hi there, I can send using paddles right or left handed. I use the thumb for dits no matter which hand I am using. This requires reversing the paddles for left handed keying. I came up with a simple solution. I use a bencher with the MFJ 422B box mounted on it. For left hand operation I simply turn the bencher upside down. I installed four Rad-Shack rubber feet on top of the 422 b box. This is a very simple solution for swapping the paddles. Our club had a social CW net which met two nights a week. One mondays I checked using right handed keying. On Fridays I checked in left handed. Our NCS coined two new Q-Codes for this operation. QRH = right handed keying and QLH = left handed keying. He would always ask which I was using. I have a demo that uses two seperate paddles monted on a common board mounted 90 deg from each other. These paddles hook in parallel to the electronic circuit. One set of paddles is labled right hand and the other is labled left hand. I am able to QSO CW by alternating letters back and forth using both hands. Occassionally I may send two or three letters from the same paddle but not often. I dont have tothink about it...it comes naturally. I call my Demo TWO FISTED CW 73 de Jack / W7LD / Lucky Dog - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz To: 'John Cooper' w...@gt.rr.com; 'elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 4:14 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training Push paddle right for dits and left for dahs - based on decades of using a conventional right-handed semi-automatic key (bug). I was a bit surprised when, a few years ago, I started hearing about people using the reverse but it makes sense - anything so easily changed will be changed by someone. The old rationale that there was less fatigue launching the mechanism to make dots when it was done by the thumb doesn't apply to paddles. (Actually there are bugs for left-handed people that are reversed too). I'm sure there are more techniques with paddles since they can be made to respond to a whisper touch so the old roll the wrist action that was common on bugs to avoid fatigue no longer applies, but I've never pursued them. Indeed, I seldom use the paddles - I prefer the bug :-) Have fun John! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3EXREF
I see talk of this external reference device. How does one get this? Nothing results in a search on the Elecraft website. Been waiting for this since K3 came out. Phil K3(352)TUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
As a rule of thumb, dits with the thumb... 73, Bob K2TK On 3/25/2011 7:44 PM, n...@n5ge.com wrote: Left handed folks generally prefer dit on the right. Anyone have statistics on that? Right handers use dits on the left. However some CW ops have said in the past that they send with their left hand and log with their right. I suppose left handed folks would do the oposite. Tom N5GE On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:56:09 -0500, John Cooperw...@gt.rr.com wrote: Anyone know of any google or youtube videos or a website that shows how to use a key like the bencher by-1 or 2. Also I would like to poll those that use paddles do you have dits on the left or right paddle? Curious as to what the majority uses. WT5Y My K2 is up and running from getting it yesterday. At least to where you check out the basic functions. Starting Reciever and PLL Synthesizer tonight. __ Elecraft mailing list __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Rework Eliminators
Russ, Yes, the rework eliminators are no longer available, but if you have the options in hand, you can put in the headers and standoffs for those options. The K2 manual tells you when to do that. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 8:09 PM, rboutell wrote: Hello, I'm getting ready to FINALLY start my K2 build, so have been reviewing the manual as well as some searches on the reflector. I came across discussions regarding the Rework Eliminator headers. This seemed like a great idea, since I have several options in the ready after I complete the basic K2. But, it appears that the RE's have been discontinued on the website, www.unpcbs.com. I was wondering if anyone has a set they'd be willing to part with or any other ideas on how to avoid the rework as I add options? Thanks, Russ W9EL -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Rework-Eliminators-tp6209594p6209594.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF
Phil, You wait until it is released. It is being tested by a few right now. No, I don't know when that will be. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 8:30 PM, Phil Theis wrote: I see talk of this external reference device. How does one get this? Nothing results in a search on the Elecraft website. Been waiting for this since K3 came out. Phil K3(352)TUF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
As a teenager, I knew an old gentlemen who had been a Western Union telegrapher. He had a two-story house (unusual in Tucson) and the whole second floor was a replica of a WU station. He wasn't a ham but had some TRF receivers that he'd built and one that I believe was US Navy surplus. He gave me a Western Union 1-B Pole Changer Key made by Bunnell, that I still use today. If I want, I can wire it to send inverted CW. (My fist is bad enough these days, it would hardly be noticeable) Interesting tidbit, especially to a guy named Stewart: The first telegraph station in Arizona Territory (1871) was at Pipe Spring and the first operator was a 16 year old girl, named Ella Stewart. http://www.nps.gov/pisp/planyourvisit/historical-figures.htm Wes N7WS --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote: From: Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training To: Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 5:52 PM *Ken..the FW will reverse it too.* * * *Gary * On 26 March 2011 09:49, Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com wrote: Thumb on right paddle makes dits. Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles around backwards and reach over the top. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem
Well I didn't mention that I'm also running Logger32 along with PWRSDR-IF from LP-Bridge I tried closing Logger32 but still, when I just tap the key, MUTE kicks on and won't go off until I click it with the mouse. Strange. Steve N4LQ - Original Message - From: Greg To: Steve Ellington Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net ; lp-...@yahoogroups.com ; Wayne Burdick - N6KR, Elecraft Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:41 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FW 4.31 problem Steve, I just tried this and I get something a little different. The mute button did not come on when I controlled RIT and XIT directly from the radio. But with N1MM open and the command for CLEARRIT executes then the MUTE button on PowerSDR does come on. 73 Greg On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 3:26 PM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com wrote: I recently loaded new firmware 4.31 and observed the following when used with PowerSDR-IF and LPPAN. PowerSDR enters MUTE status when K3 buttons RIT, XIT, XMIT, Menu are used. Also happens when K3 is keyed with key or paddle. PowerSDR-IF MUTE triggers and will not disengage automatically but will release when clicked with mouse. Has anyone else noticed? Steve N4LQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 purchasing help
I'm looking at ordering a K2/100 and hoping I'm not making a mistake by trying to build something I have no experience in. I'm really wanting to get into CW more and this is my main purpose for purchasing this rig, so hope this is the right choice, though I will use voice too. It seemed simpler than other radios and I liked that. Though I noticed by the time I finish w/ upgrades, it nears the price of the K3. Any suggested configurations for this purpose would help as well. But I do have the following questions: Can I add ANY of the upgrades to the K2 in ANY order? Is there a benefit to purchasing all the upgrades at once (e.g. latest and greatest parts are known to be perfectly compatible, or will all be compatible at any time (seem to recall reading some older models need special upgrades because of the newest stuff out))? Where can I find a list of tools I need to build this radio? And are there any kits out there that teaches one to solder for the way this board requires? KTA100 - What's the difference w/ the KTA100-1, and KTA100-2? One is in a low profile external case, and the latter is in a larger K2 size external case? Does something else go in the larger case along w/ the KTA100-2? Any good reasons to make it external or part of the radio? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 purchasing help
I would recommend you call Elecraft sales. You cannot go wrong with Elecraft. A great product with incredible support! On Friday, March 25, 2011, Shane software.research.developm...@gmail.com wrote: I'm looking at ordering a K2/100 and hoping I'm not making a mistake by trying to build something I have no experience in. I'm really wanting to get into CW more and this is my main purpose for purchasing this rig, so hope this is the right choice, though I will use voice too. It seemed simpler than other radios and I liked that. Though I noticed by the time I finish w/ upgrades, it nears the price of the K3. Any suggested configurations for this purpose would help as well. But I do have the following questions: Can I add ANY of the upgrades to the K2 in ANY order? Is there a benefit to purchasing all the upgrades at once (e.g. latest and greatest parts are known to be perfectly compatible, or will all be compatible at any time (seem to recall reading some older models need special upgrades because of the newest stuff out))? Where can I find a list of tools I need to build this radio? And are there any kits out there that teaches one to solder for the way this board requires? KTA100 - What's the difference w/ the KTA100-1, and KTA100-2? One is in a low profile external case, and the latter is in a larger K2 size external case? Does something else go in the larger case along w/ the KTA100-2? Any good reasons to make it external or part of the radio? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Frank KD8FIP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 purchasing help
Shane, If you believe you will enjoy the assembly process and soldering, then go for the K2. As you noticed, there is not much of a price difference between the fully loaded K2/100 and a K3/100 with minimal options - of course, one can get upwards of 5K$ invested in a K3 if one wants to order it fully loaded with all filters and options. You asked about upgrades, but I believe you mean options - the options can be added in any order you should choose. The benefit for purchasing all the options at the same time as the base K2 is that one can add the standoffs and headers for the options during the build process (the manual tells you when to do that), and minimize later dis-assembly. Actually disassembling the K2 to add options later is not a difficult task at all, but it gets laborious to do it multiple times - disassembly usually involves removing the bottom panel and/or the rear bottom panel (heatsink) which is a little more involved if the screws holding the PA transistor mounting hardware come out - I hold the screws in place with a piece of tape over their screwheads. If you order the K2 and option kits from Elecraft, you will receive the very latest, no upgrades are necessary. If you purchase a used K2 below SN 3000, it may need the A to B upgrades, and there have been upgrades to the KSB2 option (wider filter than original) and the KPA100 (changes to the T/R switch area) that you may want to add to a used option without the most recent upgrades. There have been only 2 upgrades since SN 3000 - the Keying Waveform Mod and the Extremely Strong Signal Handling Mod. All K2 mod kits are available from Elecraft. The list of tools required is in the manual for the K2 - download the manual from the Elecraft website. There is also a soldering tutorial (written by Tom Hammond) on the Elecraft website - search for soldering tutorial to easily find it. As you discovered, the KAT100 comes in two flavors - the KAT100-1 in the low profile enclosure. The KAT100-2 must have the EC2 enclosure ordered with it. That is normally used when the owner wants to mount the KPA100 and the KAT100 both in an external enclosure, freeing the base K2 to be used portable as a QRP transceiver. The external mounting requires the KIO2 (or a suitable substitute) in the base K2 to provide the necessary communication signals to the KPA100/KAT100. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 9:54 PM, Shane wrote: I'm looking at ordering a K2/100 and hoping I'm not making a mistake by trying to build something I have no experience in. I'm really wanting to get into CW more and this is my main purpose for purchasing this rig, so hope this is the right choice, though I will use voice too. It seemed simpler than other radios and I liked that. Though I noticed by the time I finish w/ upgrades, it nears the price of the K3. Any suggested configurations for this purpose would help as well. But I do have the following questions: Can I add ANY of the upgrades to the K2 in ANY order? Is there a benefit to purchasing all the upgrades at once (e.g. latest and greatest parts are known to be perfectly compatible, or will all be compatible at any time (seem to recall reading some older models need special upgrades because of the newest stuff out))? Where can I find a list of tools I need to build this radio? And are there any kits out there that teaches one to solder for the way this board requires? KTA100 - What's the difference w/ the KTA100-1, and KTA100-2? One is in a low profile external case, and the latter is in a larger K2 size external case? Does something else go in the larger case along w/ the KTA100-2? Any good reasons to make it external or part of the radio? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training
Well Mr. Stewart, I happen to be the trustee for the ham station aboard the USS Stewart, DE-238 which is a museum ship on Pelican Island, Texas (City of Galveston). If you ever get to this part of Texas we could arrange for a bit of operating time from the ship. It was named for Rear Admiral Charles Stewart, Captain of the USS Constitution during the War of 1812, maybe one of your ancestors. The call on the ship is N5BPS which is a slight alteration of NBPS, the call of the USS Cavalla, SS244 which is the Submarine alongside the Stewart. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke K5EWJ From: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com To: Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com; Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 7:40:40 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training As a teenager, I knew an old gentlemen who had been a Western Union telegrapher. He had a two-story house (unusual in Tucson) and the whole second floor was a replica of a WU station. He wasn't a ham but had some TRF receivers that he'd built and one that I believe was US Navy surplus. He gave me a Western Union 1-B Pole Changer Key made by Bunnell, that I still use today. If I want, I can wire it to send inverted CW. (My fist is bad enough these days, it would hardly be noticeable) Interesting tidbit, especially to a guy named Stewart: The first telegraph station in Arizona Territory (1871) was at Pipe Spring and the first operator was a 16 year old girl, named Ella Stewart. http://www.nps.gov/pisp/planyourvisit/historical-figures.htm Wes N7WS --- On Fri, 3/25/11, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote: From: Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] paddle key training To: Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 5:52 PM *Ken..the FW will reverse it too.* * * *Gary * On 26 March 2011 09:49, Ken - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com wrote: Thumb on right paddle makes dits. Have a left-handed guest op? Suggest turning paddles around backwards and reach over the top. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
