Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Adrian]

On 22/06/2012 23:47, Paul VanOveren wrote:
> You read one bad review on Eham and make that kind of statement.

Who said I read one review?That wasnt a review, it was a comment. I read 
hundreds of comments and have heard many on-air reports, and have gone 
through the process myself that the usual k3 setup IMD3 results around 
the -26 to -27 dB mark at 13.8v in with standard supplied power cable.
> ." .Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 
> pro" I have K3 # 758,  now over 4 yrs old, and have run it at 100 
> watts (as recommended) barefoot, into a Alpha 76 PA @ 50 watts and now 
> into a Elecraft KPA 500 with 25-30 watts.  After more than 5500 qsos 
> over the 4 yrs, ragchewing, chasing dx and contesting, I have had the 
> following numbers of bad audio, splattering or key clicks reports,  0 
> , zero, nata, none, zlich.

Thats what I would expect, so what? The 100w numbers needed to get 
better, and do with 15v in with a custom heavy cable. We did that, not 
because it was good fun, but from necessity.

>  IMHO, to make a statement like that (without any documentation) 
> is reckless and unwarranted. I have heard many reports from owners and 
> others, about the FT5000 re: key clicks, splattering, etc, but 
> certainly would not go on the Yeasu  reflector and spread such stuff 
> around.

I documented it for you here. You try to compare your Alpha 76 low drive 
level situation to those driving 3-500z pairs @ 100w ? It's a different 
deal.

The guys out there should try googling a bit and check out the amplifier 
forums. I stand by what I said, and said it to provide help to the K3 
owners out there that like to improve their imd3. From someone that has 
first hand gone through the process.

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Adrian]

Despite the 120w reference, the poster refers to power levels at 100w 
and lower in both his comparisons. My experience was exactly the same. 
My post was refering to the 5000 -  K3 comparison.


On 22/06/2012 22:51, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> That's a pretty old posting, Adrian. We long ago restricted max power 
> to 110 W in firmware, and the radio is specified at 100 W. Using the 
> recommended supply voltage (14 V) at the recommended power level (100 
> W) there should be no difference between the K3 and other nominal-12 V 
> transceivers.
>
> Note that the difference between 110 and 100 W is only 0.4 dB, so I 
> suggest sticking with 100 W.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Jun 22, 2012, at 3:12 PM, Adrian wrote:
>
>> Also see
>>
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg70785.html
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Fred Smith]

Wayne:

Excellent point that is the main reason that I chose my Elecraft portability
and 12v operation and a replacement for my QRP rig an IC-703 Plus In
addition to in the shack with my microHAM microKEYER for running JT65HF. 

I do use Class A mode with my 5000 to drive a Yaesu VL-1000 amp 1kw 6-160m
with 45w of drive. The 5000 is not a plug and play radio it has a learning
curve and one of the first is the audio setup which takes time and differs
with mic's and your voice using the 3 band eq. There are many who never
quite learn to do this correctly.

73,

Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 5:42 PM
To: Adrian
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

Adrian wrote:

> K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results?

Adrian,

The K3 is a 12-volt-powered transceiver. When running at 100 W and from a
typical DC supply, its transmit 3rd-order IMD is very similar to that of
other 12-V radios, as confirmed by multiple test labs.

A transceiver with a class-A final or running from much higher supply
voltages (15 V is OK, as you mentioned) will have better IMD. But radios
with built-in supplies are not suited for portability -- a major design goal
of the K3, which is used by more DXpeditions than any other rig.

Also, I suspect most "splatter" comments derive from improper adjustment of
the K3 when used with an external amplifier.

Some amplifier manufacturers still insist on instructing users to crank up
their radio's power output to maximum when driving the amp, forcing the use
of wideband ALC at the radio, and that can indeed result in splatter. But if
you adjust the K3's power output as described in the owner's manual (with no
more drive than required for full amp power), and do not depend on
aggressive ALC action, its signal will be very clean. This allows all of the
K3's fast ALC to be achieved *ahead* of the crystal filter, avoiding the
wideband ALC splatter characteristic of transceivers designed for
"crank-it-all-the- way-up" mode.

Also note that the K3 typically runs at 20-50 W when driving the
KPA500 or other amp with similar gain, resulting in excellent third- order
IMD.

If anyone had a K3 exhibiting IMD worse than specified, we would certainly
repair it at no charge.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Fred Smith]

Robert:

I could not agree with you more I own all brands of equipment and all have
their positive and negative aspects in one way or another. I'm currently on
6 different radio reflectors and try to keep up to date with all new models
and specs for them just something I enjoy doing.

There is one thing that Elecraft does that stands well above all others and
that is service and support and some of the best documentation for their
kits of any I have ever seen. I as have said I am a proud owner of a K2 and
plan on buying other products as well. Discussions on radios have raged for
over 75 yrs I guess and will continue far after I'm gone. Anyone up for a
SDR receiver discussion? 8-)

73'

Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert Vargas
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 6:14 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

Love my K3 as I know I will love my KX3 on order and I love
Elecraft customer support and the fact that the owners stand behind their
products and are real gentlemen. However, if I had $5K to spend and the
difference between a fully loaded K3 and the FT-5000 was around $500-$700, I
would blindly go with the FT-5000. The specs are close for me and I have
operated the FT-5000 and believe that it also has a great receiver. The
difference I believe lies in the construction/workmanship of both radios and
I'm reminded about that every time I turn the K3 VFO. I believe that the KX3
pricing is more inline with what you are getting but the K3 is IMHO slightly
overpriced for a kit. But, I then have to realize that someone has to pay
for the magnificent intellectual work that Wayne and Eric have done in the
development of the K3's firmware, and that is worth the money. I really look
forward to better construction/workmanship for the K4...

Robert, KP4Y  



 From: Scott Manthe 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad
 
I said the K3's transmitter was superior to the FT-5000, not perfect. 
The ARRL review lists the 3rd order TX IMD numbers at -30db for the 5000 and
-29 dB for the K3, but those numbers alone don't tell the whole story. Take
at look at the ARRL's phase noise numbers and spectral display
characteristics for the FT-5000's transmitted signal and compare them to the
K3 and then get back to us. To be fair, the K3 tested does seem to have an
issue with inferior 9th order IMD numbers, though.

These figures were without the FT-5000's processor turned on, which of
course, dirties up the 5000's signal quite a bit, unless that "feature" 
has been fixed. If it has, many contesters will be tearing up, because that
and the key clicks help FT5000 ops get higher scores.

Re: your other post, my K3 is rated at 100 watts output, so I'm sure someone
running one at 120 watts will notice that the performance does degrade. I
find the slightly higher PS voltage an intriguing idea.

The FT-5000 is a fine rig, and is fairly clean in class A mode, with the
processor turned off, but most people don't run them that way.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 6/22/12 5:48 PM, Adrian wrote:
> K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
> Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
> See;
>
> http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html
>
> Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving 
> clean amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
> The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[Bill Frantz]

I take my radio between SJC and MHT in checked luggage several 
times a year with no problems. I occasionally get a TSA note 
saying they have inspected the bag. I am usually carrying:

   PSK-20 QRP rig from Small Wonder Labs (a radio with no 
external controls)
   A Signalink USB interface
   rig to Signalink and a USB cable
   "Wallwart" style power supply

I used to carry a 20M dipole, but decided to leave one at each 
end to avoid extra stuff in my luggage.

Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 6/22/12 at 10:24, ron.nut...@networkref.com (Ronald Nutter) wrote:

>I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP 
>station with me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of 
>dealing with TSA, I dont think I should have a problem with 
>putting the KX3, a power supply, the pigtail wifi interface, 
>and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The antennas is 
>where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a 
>couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to 
>pack them in my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?
---
Bill Frantz| "The only thing we have to   | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | fear is fear itself." - FDR  | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | Inaugural address, 3/4/1933  | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[Don Wilhelm]

Joe,

I would believe (based only on guess, and no prior knowledge) that the 
number of orders for the KAT500 are much smaller than for the KX3.  
While the KX3 "natives are restless", I would think that once the KAT500 
starts shipping, the projections will be much tighter than for the KX3 - 
just due to the relative volume of pending orders.

The KAT500 does not have a "tracking spreadsheet" on a Yahoo Groups 
forum, so I have no data regarding time of the orders and ship 
conformation emails and delivery times.  That spreadsheet has given me 
the basis for the numbers I used -- the internal Elecraft information 
may be different.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 9:45 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:
> After reading all the 'facts' about production line 'ramp up' and estimated
> daily production counts I have concluded that the same logic will apply to
> my order for my new KAT500.
>
> I am confident that the actual delivery will be the day Mr. Brown drops it
> off at my front door.  Plus or minus several hours of course.
>
> 73  Joe K2UF
>

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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[Joe K2UF]

After reading all the 'facts' about production line 'ramp up' and estimated
daily production counts I have concluded that the same logic will apply to
my order for my new KAT500.  

I am confident that the actual delivery will be the day Mr. Brown drops it
off at my front door.  Plus or minus several hours of course.

73  Joe K2UF 

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 9:16 PM
To: 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

I hope it is a joke!  IMHO. it conveys the wrong message.

Did you ever hear of "ramp-up"?  Consider the following scenerio for the 
early days of shipping (even if the numbers are wrong).

One unit was shipped the first day, none the 2nd day because the second 
unit took 1.5 days, 4th day, another unit was shipped.  5th day one was 
shipped and another was half ready, so the 4th one shipped on the 6th 
day.  OK, the average so far is 2/3 of a unit per day.
Continue the same exercise, but project for a month, and they are now 
shipping 5 units per day - plus, part of that "ramp-up" time was 
training new people, so by the time the new people were fully on board, 
there is a capability of 9 units per day after 2 months (the actual 
number from the TJ spreadheet is 9.9 units per day based on a 7 day week 
- or about 14 per day based on a 5 day week.

It is not fair to average the first 2 months of shipping and attempt to 
project that average over the lifetime of the product.

Serial numbers count more than the averages given - in the first month, 
  the average was 44.1 units per week, while in June, the average is 
69.3 units per week.  Does that sound like an average over the entire 
period would be accurate?  I think the answer is clearly NO!

To date, there have been 498 known deliveries, and more to come soon, 
and the ship rate seems to be about 14 per day (5 day week), and 
Elecraft is projecting a 90 to 120 day delivery for current orders 
figures out to compute to 1400  pending orders right now (using the 
average time of 100 days to delivery) -- and that is making the 
assumption that the rate of 14 per day (in a 5 day week) will not 
increase.  The first 2 days of ordering yielded about 500 orders - that 
is phenomenal an average of 250 per day!

So bottom line -- if you have placed your order earlier, you will have 
less than 90 days to wait, and if you place your order now, you will 
receive delivery in 120 days or less.  Elecraft will not mislead you - 
the time of uncertainty about any problems along with the early training 
of line personnel has gone by and good projections can be made.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 6:30 PM, dr.diesel wrote:
> Ok, this is kinda a joke, but with no info coming from Elecraft (and being
> asked, not to ask) I have nothing else to go with.
>
> Facts:
>
> The first KX3 shipped on March 29th
> Orders started Dec 27th
> Currently orders from Dec 29th are shipping, we'll assume all orders from
> the 29th have shipped.
>
> This ratio is for every 2 days of orders takes 2.5 Months to process, or
> 1.25 months per day.
>
> Since I ordered my KX3 on Jan 9th, it should arrive somewhere around
August
> 2013.  Plenty of time for me to rethink and pre-order a K4 at Dayton next
> year!
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-KX3-shipping-calculation-tp7557972.h
tml
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[Don Wilhelm]

I hope it is a joke!  IMHO. it conveys the wrong message.

Did you ever hear of "ramp-up"?  Consider the following scenerio for the 
early days of shipping (even if the numbers are wrong).

One unit was shipped the first day, none the 2nd day because the second 
unit took 1.5 days, 4th day, another unit was shipped.  5th day one was 
shipped and another was half ready, so the 4th one shipped on the 6th 
day.  OK, the average so far is 2/3 of a unit per day.
Continue the same exercise, but project for a month, and they are now 
shipping 5 units per day - plus, part of that "ramp-up" time was 
training new people, so by the time the new people were fully on board, 
there is a capability of 9 units per day after 2 months (the actual 
number from the TJ spreadheet is 9.9 units per day based on a 7 day week 
- or about 14 per day based on a 5 day week.

It is not fair to average the first 2 months of shipping and attempt to 
project that average over the lifetime of the product.

Serial numbers count more than the averages given - in the first month, 
  the average was 44.1 units per week, while in June, the average is 
69.3 units per week.  Does that sound like an average over the entire 
period would be accurate?  I think the answer is clearly NO!

To date, there have been 498 known deliveries, and more to come soon, 
and the ship rate seems to be about 14 per day (5 day week), and 
Elecraft is projecting a 90 to 120 day delivery for current orders 
figures out to compute to 1400  pending orders right now (using the 
average time of 100 days to delivery) -- and that is making the 
assumption that the rate of 14 per day (in a 5 day week) will not 
increase.  The first 2 days of ordering yielded about 500 orders - that 
is phenomenal an average of 250 per day!

So bottom line -- if you have placed your order earlier, you will have 
less than 90 days to wait, and if you place your order now, you will 
receive delivery in 120 days or less.  Elecraft will not mislead you - 
the time of uncertainty about any problems along with the early training 
of line personnel has gone by and good projections can be made.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 6:30 PM, dr.diesel wrote:
> Ok, this is kinda a joke, but with no info coming from Elecraft (and being
> asked, not to ask) I have nothing else to go with.
>
> Facts:
>
> The first KX3 shipped on March 29th
> Orders started Dec 27th
> Currently orders from Dec 29th are shipping, we'll assume all orders from
> the 29th have shipped.
>
> This ratio is for every 2 days of orders takes 2.5 Months to process, or
> 1.25 months per day.
>
> Since I ordered my KX3 on Jan 9th, it should arrive somewhere around August
> 2013.  Plenty of time for me to rethink and pre-order a K4 at Dayton next
> year!
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-KX3-shipping-calculation-tp7557972.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[Don Wilhelm]

Curt,

OK, that is information that I did not have initially, so I only 
mentioned the possibility - my ISP is broken :-) ..
Given that new information, I would suggest you look for a faulty solder 
connection.  Re-flow the soldering around the VFO pot with a hot (750 
degF) soldering iron.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 8:14 PM, rhule...@comcast.net wrote:
> My K1 is S/N 2258, don't remember when I built it but believe around 2007. 
> Would the pot wear out in 5 years? The rig isn't used that often and nearly 
> always inside.  It has always been in air conditioned and dry conditions.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[k...@yahoo.com]

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

- Reply message -
From: "Guy Olinger K2AV" 
Date: Fri, Jun 22, 2012 7:28 pm
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue
To: "Tom McCulloch" 
Cc: "Elecraft" 


There is a menu setting that can be different between the two.  Inp on the
first menu can be set to PdLn or PdLr, or HAnd.  Also if one goes to the
menu Inp and then does a "hold" on EDIT, tapping DISPLAY will toggle and
show the resultant state of Autodetect feature, which will allow both
straight key and paddle to be hooked up to the rig at the same time if
turned on.

See
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740001_K2%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20I.pdf
page 99 and elsewhere.

Also do NOT attempt to make sense of what happens if a shorted state exists
on either paddle lead when the rig is turned on.  If either paddle lead is
shorted when the rig is turned on, the K2 will abide by a firmware
directive not to key the transmitter with a key/paddle assertion in force
when it is powered up.  So as soon as you key the rig, the shorted state is
now paid attention to.  This initiates the behavior you refer to.  Easily
caused by using a mono plug instead of a stereo plug.

73, Guy.

On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 5:01 PM, Tom McCulloch  wrote:

> Tyler,
>
> I had this key down problem as well.  Don's advice to me regarding the
> use of a stereo plug was exactly the fix.  I'm not sure why your plug is
> working on a different K2, though.
>
> Tom
> WB2QDG
> K2 1103
>
> On 6/22/2012 4:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Tyler,
> >
> > I would venture a guess that you have a mono plug on that straight key.
> > Put a stereo plug on it (no - an adapter will not work) and connect the
> > key to the tip and to the shell.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[rhulett1]

I notice the tuning pot seems to have more play than would have thought 
appropriate, can't say if this has increased.  The "jump" happens at several 
particular frequencies on all bands.  For example, 7055, 7130; 14055, 14130. 
Manipulating connections inside the case from the port to the board has no 
effect. Jaring the rig has no effect.  The "jump" seems to only happen while 
tuning down the band.  Pushing and pulling the tuning knob sometimes causes a 
"jump".  I'm leaning toward replacing the Bourne pot, maybe the wiper has 
developed a problem. Is there potential for any rebate from Bourne?

Thoughts?  Curt KB5JO
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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[W7GJ, Lance]

On 6/22/2012 11:38 PM, dr.diesel [via Elecraft] wrote:
>
> W7GJ, Lance wrote
> I sure hope you are wrong, because I ordered mine on Jan 11, 2012 and I 
> am leaving
> with it (hopefully) on a 6m EME DXpedition to ZK2 at the end of August!   
> Let's
> both
> keep our fingers crossed!   Been into the 7th month of waiting now VY 
> 73,
> Lance
>
> I was planning to take mine to Dayton, then to demonstrate during Webelos 
> Camp this 
> past weekend.  In another month I will have missed all of the 2012 camping 
> events..
>
> -
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion 
> below:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-KX3-shipping-calculation-tp7557972p7557987.html
>  
>
> To start a new topic under Elecraft, email 
> ml-node+s365791n365791...@n2.nabble.com
> To unsubscribe from Elecraft, click here 
> .
> NAML 
> 
>  
>
I sure hope the production rate is picking up!  GL and VY 73, Lance

-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[rhulett1]

My K1 is S/N 2258, don't remember when I built it but believe around 2007. 
Would the pot wear out in 5 years? The rig isn't used that often and nearly 
always inside.  It has always been in air conditioned and dry conditions.
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[NM6E_QRP]

I always travelled to the Carribbean and Latin America with my MP-1, mini 
tripod and a bunch of radials, coax that were checked in as part of my luggage. 

Never a problem. 

Only issue I had was in LAX, they always did the swab test on my K2/10 with the 
built in battery everytime I connected there. 

Internationally, never an issue with my stuff nor at MIA, DFW or Houston at 
customs. 

I always carried the radios with me (K2 or the KX1). The rest was checked in. 


Javier TI2/NM6E


Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 22, 2012, at 5:47 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> On 6/22/2012 10:24 AM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
>> I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP station with
>> me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of dealing with TSA, I dont
>> think I should have a problem with putting the KX3, a power supply, the
>> pigtail wifi interface, and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The
>> antennas is where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a
>> couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to pack them in
>> my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?
> 
> I took my KX1 on a cruise thru the Panama Canal.  I have an MP-1 
> knockoff that I thought about but didn't take.  The resonator looks a 
> lot like a pipe bomb on the x-ray, and I didn't think I'd have much 
> success explaining the theory behind base-loaded short HF antennas to 
> the TSA folk, they have a hard time understanding the scrap metal buried 
> in my shoulder.
> 
> Whatever you choose to take, include a copy of your license, and an 
> explanation of what it is.  That's worked for me ... so far.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
> - www.cqp.org
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[Fred Jensen]

On 6/22/2012 10:24 AM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP station with
> me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of dealing with TSA, I dont
> think I should have a problem with putting the KX3, a power supply, the
> pigtail wifi interface, and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The
> antennas is where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a
> couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to pack them in
> my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?

I took my KX1 on a cruise thru the Panama Canal.  I have an MP-1 
knockoff that I thought about but didn't take.  The resonator looks a 
lot like a pipe bomb on the x-ray, and I didn't think I'd have much 
success explaining the theory behind base-loaded short HF antennas to 
the TSA folk, they have a hard time understanding the scrap metal buried 
in my shoulder.

Whatever you choose to take, include a copy of your license, and an 
explanation of what it is.  That's worked for me ... so far.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Paul VanOveren]

You read one bad review on Eham and make that kind of statement.." .Out in 
the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 pro" I have K3 
# 758,  now over 4 yrs old, and have run it at 100 watts (as recommended) 
barefoot, into a Alpha 76 PA @ 50 watts and now into a Elecraft KPA 500 with 
25-30 watts.  After more than 5500 qsos over the 4 yrs, ragchewing, chasing 
dx and contesting, I have had the following numbers of bad audio, 
splattering or key clicks reports,  0 , zero, nata, none, zlich.
  IMHO, to make a statement like that (without any documentation) is 
reckless and unwarranted. I have heard many reports from owners and others, 
about the FT5000 re: key clicks, splattering, etc, but certainly would not 
go on the Yeasu  reflector and spread such stuff around.

NF8J
Paul

-Original Message- 
From: Adrian
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 5:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?

http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html

Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.



>A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in all
slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
exceeds the K3's >receiver performance in one category, and trails the K3 in
every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior transmitter,
as evidenced by the >IMD numbers in ARRL test results and elsewhere.

>73,
>Scott, N9AA



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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[dr.diesel]

W7GJ, Lance wrote
> 
> I sure hope you are wrong, because I ordered mine on Jan 11, 2012 and I am
> leaving 
> with it (hopefully) on a 6m EME DXpedition to ZK2 at the end of August!  
> Let's both 
> keep our fingers crossed!   Been into the 7th month of waiting now VY
> 73, Lance
> 
> 

I was planning to take mine to Dayton, then to demonstrate during Webelos
Camp this past weekend.  In another month I will have missed all of the 2012
camping events..

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

There is a menu setting that can be different between the two.  Inp on the
first menu can be set to PdLn or PdLr, or HAnd.  Also if one goes to the
menu Inp and then does a "hold" on EDIT, tapping DISPLAY will toggle and
show the resultant state of Autodetect feature, which will allow both
straight key and paddle to be hooked up to the rig at the same time if
turned on.

See
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740001_K2%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20I.pdf
page 99 and elsewhere.

Also do NOT attempt to make sense of what happens if a shorted state exists
on either paddle lead when the rig is turned on.  If either paddle lead is
shorted when the rig is turned on, the K2 will abide by a firmware
directive not to key the transmitter with a key/paddle assertion in force
when it is powered up.  So as soon as you key the rig, the shorted state is
now paid attention to.  This initiates the behavior you refer to.  Easily
caused by using a mono plug instead of a stereo plug.

73, Guy.

On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 5:01 PM, Tom McCulloch  wrote:

> Tyler,
>
> I had this key down problem as well.  Don's advice to me regarding the
> use of a stereo plug was exactly the fix.  I'm not sure why your plug is
> working on a different K2, though.
>
> Tom
> WB2QDG
> K2 1103
>
> On 6/22/2012 4:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Tyler,
> >
> > I would venture a guess that you have a mono plug on that straight key.
> > Put a stereo plug on it (no - an adapter will not work) and connect the
> > key to the tip and to the shell.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut *TIME CRITICAL*

[Erik Basilier]

Ron,
Thanks for the quick reply. I was already having daymares about tuner ground
return path, and that is just what you said!
Anyway, it didn't take long to remove the top. I found that the
tuner-to-standoff screw was somewhat tight already, but I am sure I improved
the situation when I applied one screwdriver to that screw from the inside,
while simultaneously applying another screwdriver from the outside to the
long screw. I think I would have been ok, but I feel so much better now!
73,
Erik

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz] 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 4:03 PM
To: 'Erik Basilier'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut *TIME
CRITICAL*

That long screw is part of the ground return for the KAT3. If the hardware
is loose people have reported the SWR jumping around as the ground path
resistance varies according to how well the screw threads make contact with
the standoff.

A quick fix might be to remove the top cover. That standoff is right up
against the rear panel lip but if you can get pliers or a wrench on it
simply tighten it against the 2D fastener. Optionally you might push on the
screw that goes through the circuit board to push the standoff up hard
against the 2D and then replace the long screw to hold everything. 

As long as it's making solid electrical contact you should have no problems.


Always a last minute panic, Hi!

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Ron, I know what you are referring to. During my aborted attempt I first
removed the long screw, but gave up when I realized that I was up against
the voltage regulators. I put the screws back and packed the radio in a
case. Question: does this mean that I have some loose hardware now relating
to the standoff at the KAT3? The long screw seemed to tighten ok. In other
words, should I open the radio and follow your instructions, or can I be
reasonable confident and be on my way to FD? This is time critical.
Thanks,
Erik

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[Elecraft] K3 12 volt current modification

[Bob Locher]

I had the same problem - that the switched output of the K3 is limited.

I have my shack set up so that turning on the K3 turns on several other 
functions including a P3, and a W2 watt meter. Also, I turn on a 12 volt 
coax relay that attaches the antenna to the rig. Everything was fine 
until I went about adding the P3 - that blew me well past the half amp 
limit.

I solved the problem a completely different way. Out of my junk box, I 
took a small project box, some RCA connectors and an automotive 12 volt 
20 amp relay designed for PC board mounting.

I mounted six RCA jacks first - two on one side and four on the other. I 
mounted the relay upside down inside the project box, using a generous 
dollop of hot melt glue.

I wired it as follows - one of the RCA jacks goes to the relay coil. 
This jack is connected to the switched output of the K3, and only pulls 
about 70 ma. The second jack goes to my 30 amp Astron power supply, and 
feeds the 12 volts DC supply to the relay common pin. (I used a pair of 
#16 wires from the Astron to the jack.) The switched output of the relay 
goes to the other four RCA jacks.

If you do this  be sure to get everything right, and to label out inputs 
and outputs.I would have liked to have different connectors for the K3 
input and the supply input to prevent mixups but my junk box came up 
short. I contented myself with good labels.

Anyhow the system works perfectly. I turn on the K3 and everything comes 
on, and I still can add more outputs to the box without fear of 
overloading anything.

Cheers/73

Bob Locher W9KNI
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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

[WM3M]

I don't  know the answers to theses questions but if ok I would like to ask
one of my own.
I was wondering what the power limit on 6 mtrs is/will be for the KAT500.
Using my KPA500 on 6 mtrs I have to take my existing tuner out of the path 
to the
antenna since, even powered off the tuner can not handle 500 watts on 6
mtrs.  Thanks
Emory  WM3M


-Original Message- 
From: Phil Hystad
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 4:47 PM
To:  List
Subject: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

I am on the waiting list for my KAT500 -- waiting - waiting - waiting

But, in the mean time I am planning for how I want to arrange the switching 
of my various antennas.  I understand the KAT500 has 3 antenna connections 
so first a couple of questions:

1.  Will the automatic features of the tuner include automatic band 
switching ?   That is, if I am operating on my 80 meter dipole and then I 
switch my K3 to the 20 meter band will my 20-meter Hexbeam automatically be 
switched in (assuming I have it also connected to the KAT500)?

2.  I have four antennas:  80-meter dipole, 40-meter dipole, and 30-meter 
dipole, plus my Traffie Hexbeam that handles 20 meter through 10 meters.  I 
would like to hook up permanently my 80 meter and the Traffie hexbeam to two 
of the KAT500 antenna connections and then also switch in the 40-meter 
dipole and 30-meter dipole into the third antenna connection on the KAT500. 
So, let's say I am on 40 meters and I switch to 30 meters but I need to also 
manually switch my 40-meter and 30-meter since they share the same port. 
Will the KAT500 know how to handle this?  [Note:  my 30-meter dipole though 
is 1.3:1 and better across the entire 30-meter band so maybe I don't even 
need the KAT500].

3.  How do I tell the KAT500 that the five bands (20m thru 10m) are found on 
one given antenna connection (to my hexbeam)?  Or, does the KAT500 learn 
this or do I manually help it out by some stored assignment.

4.  Which brings up my final question:  will the KAT500 be a "smart" device 
with a computer interface like many other Elecraft devices?  Is this how I 
might preset bands to be associated with antenna connections.  Note, my 
80-meter dipole can actually work well on 40 and 30 but not as well as my 
40-meter and 30-meter dipoles.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Robert Vargas]

Love my K3 as I know I will love my KX3 on order and I love 
Elecraft customer support and the fact that the owners stand behind their 
products and are real gentlemen. However, if I had $5K to spend and the 
difference between a fully loaded K3 and the FT-5000 was around $500-$700, I 
would blindly go with the FT-5000. The specs are close for me and I have 
operated the FT-5000 and believe that it also has a great receiver. The 
difference I believe lies in the construction/workmanship of both radios and 
I'm reminded about that every time I turn the K3 VFO. I believe that the KX3 
pricing is more inline with what you are getting but the K3 is IMHO slightly 
overpriced for a kit. But, I then have to realize that someone has to pay for 
the magnificent intellectual work that Wayne and Eric have done in the 
development of the K3's firmware, and that is worth the money. I really look 
forward to better construction/workmanship for the K4...

Robert, KP4Y  



 From: Scott Manthe 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad
 
I said the K3's transmitter was superior to the FT-5000, not perfect. 
The ARRL review lists the 3rd order TX IMD numbers at -30db for the 5000 
and -29 dB for the K3, but those numbers alone don't tell the whole 
story. Take at look at the ARRL's phase noise numbers and spectral 
display characteristics for the FT-5000's transmitted signal and compare 
them to the K3 and then get back to us. To be fair, the K3 tested does 
seem to have an issue with inferior 9th order IMD numbers, though.

These figures were without the FT-5000's processor turned on, which of 
course, dirties up the 5000's signal quite a bit, unless that "feature" 
has been fixed. If it has, many contesters will be tearing up, because 
that and the key clicks help FT5000 ops get higher scores.

Re: your other post, my K3 is rated at 100 watts output, so I'm sure 
someone running one at 120 watts will notice that the performance does 
degrade. I find the slightly higher PS voltage an intriguing idea.

The FT-5000 is a fine rig, and is fairly clean in class A mode, with the 
processor turned off, but most people don't run them that way.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 6/22/12 5:48 PM, Adrian wrote:
> K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
> Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
> See;
>
> http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html
>
> Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
> amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
> The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut *TIME CRITICAL*

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That long screw is part of the ground return for the KAT3. If the hardware
is loose people have reported the SWR jumping around as the ground path
resistance varies according to how well the screw threads make contact with
the standoff.

A quick fix might be to remove the top cover. That standoff is right up
against the rear panel lip but if you can get pliers or a wrench on it
simply tighten it against the 2D fastener. Optionally you might push on the
screw that goes through the circuit board to push the standoff up hard
against the 2D and then replace the long screw to hold everything. 

As long as it's making solid electrical contact you should have no problems.


Always a last minute panic, Hi!

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Ron, I know what you are referring to. During my aborted attempt I first
removed the long screw, but gave up when I realized that I was up against
the voltage regulators. I put the screws back and packed the radio in a
case. Question: does this mean that I have some loose hardware now relating
to the standoff at the KAT3? The long screw seemed to tighten ok. In other
words, should I open the radio and follow your instructions, or can I be
reasonable confident and be on my way to FD? This is time critical.
Thanks,
Erik

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Re: [Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[W7GJ, Lance]

I sure hope you are wrong, because I ordered mine on Jan 11, 2012 and I am 
leaving 
with it (hopefully) on a 6m EME DXpedition to ZK2 at the end of August!   Let's 
both 
keep our fingers crossed!   Been into the 7th month of waiting now VY 73, 
Lance

On 6/22/2012 10:30 PM, dr.diesel [via Elecraft] wrote:
> Ok, this is kinda a joke, but with no info coming from Elecraft (and being 
> asked, 
> not to ask) I have nothing else to go with.
>
> Facts:
>
> The first KX3 shipped on March 29th
> Orders started Dec 27th
> Currently orders from Dec 29th are shipping, we'll assume all orders from the 
> 29th 
> have shipped.
>
> This ratio is for every 2 days of orders takes 2.5 Months to process, or 1.25 
> months per day.
>
> Since I ordered my KX3 on Jan 9th, it should arrive somewhere around August 
> 2013. 
>  Plenty of time for me to rethink and pre-order a K4 at Dayton next year!
>
>
>
> -
> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion 
> below:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-KX3-shipping-calculation-tp7557972.html
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> ml-node+s365791n365791...@n2.nabble.com
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> .
> NAML 
> 
>  
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Scott Manthe]

I said the K3's transmitter was superior to the FT-5000, not perfect. 
The ARRL review lists the 3rd order TX IMD numbers at -30db for the 5000 
and -29 dB for the K3, but those numbers alone don't tell the whole 
story. Take at look at the ARRL's phase noise numbers and spectral 
display characteristics for the FT-5000's transmitted signal and compare 
them to the K3 and then get back to us. To be fair, the K3 tested does 
seem to have an issue with inferior 9th order IMD numbers, though.

These figures were without the FT-5000's processor turned on, which of 
course, dirties up the 5000's signal quite a bit, unless that "feature" 
has been fixed. If it has, many contesters will be tearing up, because 
that and the key clicks help FT5000 ops get higher scores.

Re: your other post, my K3 is rated at 100 watts output, so I'm sure 
someone running one at 120 watts will notice that the performance does 
degrade. I find the slightly higher PS voltage an intriguing idea.

The FT-5000 is a fine rig, and is fairly clean in class A mode, with the 
processor turned off, but most people don't run them that way.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 6/22/12 5:48 PM, Adrian wrote:
> K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
> Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
> See;
>
> http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html
>
> Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
> amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
> The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

[Phil Hystad]

Dick,

Thanks for the great answers.  Yes, I would choose to run the 30-meter dipole
around the KAT500.  I keep forgetting that it has such great low SWR across
the band (of course, it is not that wide).

73, phil, K7PEH

On Jun 22, 2012, at 3:42 PM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

> 1) The KAT500 will follow the K3's band lines on the ACC connector. If you
> don't wire the band change lines, the KAT500 will learn of band change and
> will switch bands (and antenna) on first transmit.
> 
> 2) You'll need to tune, but "bypass" is the first setting attempted.  You
> might consider moving your other 30/40 switch to be before the ATU so that
> it chooses between 30 and KAT500.
> 
> 3) Both. The normal behavior is to return to the last antenna used on the
> band.  I want to offer a configuration option to set a "preferred" antenna
> connector per band, so it switches there on band change rather than the last
> used.  This might help if you use multiple antenna connectors on any given
> band, but always want to start out with a specific antenna on a given band.
> 
> 4) Yes, there's a microcontroller, an RS-232 port serial command set, and a
> KAT500 Utility.  There will be a programmer's reference.  It's not yet ready
> yet. You'll be able to select antennas, view and change all the relay
> settings (and see the L and C values chosen and have a way to "tweak" them).
> 
> 73 de Dick, K6KR
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 1:48 PM
> To:  List
> Subject: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500
> 
> I am on the waiting list for my KAT500 -- waiting - waiting - waiting
> 
> But, in the mean time I am planning for how I want to arrange the switching
> of my various antennas.  I understand the KAT500 has 3 antenna connections
> so first a couple of questions:
> 
> 1.  Will the automatic features of the tuner include automatic band
> switching ?   That is, if I am operating on my 80 meter dipole and then I
> switch my K3 to the 20 meter band will my 20-meter Hexbeam automatically be
> switched in (assuming I have it also connected to the KAT500)?
> 
> 2.  I have four antennas:  80-meter dipole, 40-meter dipole, and 30-meter
> dipole, plus my Traffie Hexbeam that handles 20 meter through 10 meters.  I
> would like to hook up permanently my 80 meter and the Traffie hexbeam to two
> of the KAT500 antenna connections and then also switch in the 40-meter
> dipole and 30-meter dipole into the third antenna connection on the KAT500.
> So, let's say I am on 40 meters and I switch to 30 meters but I need to also
> manually switch my 40-meter and 30-meter since they share the same port.
> Will the KAT500 know how to handle this?  [Note:  my 30-meter dipole though
> is 1.3:1 and better across the entire 30-meter band so maybe I don't even
> need the KAT500].
> 
> 3.  How do I tell the KAT500 that the five bands (20m thru 10m) are found on
> one given antenna connection (to my hexbeam)?  Or, does the KAT500 learn
> this or do I manually help it out by some stored assignment.
> 
> 4.  Which brings up my final question:  will the KAT500 be a "smart" device
> with a computer interface like many other Elecraft devices?  Is this how I
> might preset bands to be associated with antenna connections.  Note, my
> 80-meter dipole can actually work well on 40 and 30 but not as well as my
> 40-meter and 30-meter dipoles.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Wayne Burdick]

That's a pretty old posting, Adrian. We long ago restricted max power  
to 110 W in firmware, and the radio is specified at 100 W. Using the  
recommended supply voltage (14 V) at the recommended power level (100  
W) there should be no difference between the K3 and other nominal-12 V  
transceivers.

Note that the difference between 110 and 100 W is only 0.4 dB, so I  
suggest sticking with 100 W.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jun 22, 2012, at 3:12 PM, Adrian wrote:

> Also see
>
> http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg70785.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Oops. Someone kindly pointed out my "senior moment". It's NOT the KPA100
enclosure, it's the KPA3 enclosure! 

Ron 

-Original Message-

Erik, probably the easiest way to get to the nut is through the KPA100
enclosure. Download the 12DC Power Mod instructions
(http://www.elecraft.com/manual/12VDC%20Current%20Modification.pdf ) They
show you how to get into the rear panel, by removing the fan panel and
KPA100 module (ignore the instructions about removing the bottom cover). 

I bet you can get in and tighten it up and get out all in less than 30
minutes even if working very slowly and carefully. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Of course, the K3 is NOT rated at the 120 watts he says he was running! 

He did qualify that by saying that it looked good at the rated 100 watts
output. 

But that's true "Ham Sprit". In the old days we watched the final plates
turn cherry red and were careful to QRT when the color started shifting to
yellow!

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

Also see

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg70785.html


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Dave Lankshear]

There was a simple mod devised by dear old Tom Hammond, N0SS (SK) regarding
the complication of the top rear corner securing of the right hand K3 side
panel.  Tom said, simply drill out the thread on the single hole of the 2-D
connector in that corner and then the side panel can be removed by simply
unscrewing the long screw that passes through the 2-D fastener.  I made the
mod and was pleased with he result.

 

73 Dave G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

[Dick Dievendorff]

1) The KAT500 will follow the K3's band lines on the ACC connector. If you
don't wire the band change lines, the KAT500 will learn of band change and
will switch bands (and antenna) on first transmit.

2) You'll need to tune, but "bypass" is the first setting attempted.  You
might consider moving your other 30/40 switch to be before the ATU so that
it chooses between 30 and KAT500.

3) Both. The normal behavior is to return to the last antenna used on the
band.  I want to offer a configuration option to set a "preferred" antenna
connector per band, so it switches there on band change rather than the last
used.  This might help if you use multiple antenna connectors on any given
band, but always want to start out with a specific antenna on a given band.

4) Yes, there's a microcontroller, an RS-232 port serial command set, and a
KAT500 Utility.  There will be a programmer's reference.  It's not yet ready
yet. You'll be able to select antennas, view and change all the relay
settings (and see the L and C values chosen and have a way to "tweak" them).

73 de Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 1:48 PM
To:  List
Subject: [Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

I am on the waiting list for my KAT500 -- waiting - waiting - waiting

But, in the mean time I am planning for how I want to arrange the switching
of my various antennas.  I understand the KAT500 has 3 antenna connections
so first a couple of questions:

1.  Will the automatic features of the tuner include automatic band
switching ?   That is, if I am operating on my 80 meter dipole and then I
switch my K3 to the 20 meter band will my 20-meter Hexbeam automatically be
switched in (assuming I have it also connected to the KAT500)?

2.  I have four antennas:  80-meter dipole, 40-meter dipole, and 30-meter
dipole, plus my Traffie Hexbeam that handles 20 meter through 10 meters.  I
would like to hook up permanently my 80 meter and the Traffie hexbeam to two
of the KAT500 antenna connections and then also switch in the 40-meter
dipole and 30-meter dipole into the third antenna connection on the KAT500.
So, let's say I am on 40 meters and I switch to 30 meters but I need to also
manually switch my 40-meter and 30-meter since they share the same port.
Will the KAT500 know how to handle this?  [Note:  my 30-meter dipole though
is 1.3:1 and better across the entire 30-meter band so maybe I don't even
need the KAT500].

3.  How do I tell the KAT500 that the five bands (20m thru 10m) are found on
one given antenna connection (to my hexbeam)?  Or, does the KAT500 learn
this or do I manually help it out by some stored assignment.

4.  Which brings up my final question:  will the KAT500 be a "smart" device
with a computer interface like many other Elecraft devices?  Is this how I
might preset bands to be associated with antenna connections.  Note, my
80-meter dipole can actually work well on 40 and 30 but not as well as my
40-meter and 30-meter dipoles.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Wayne Burdick]

Adrian wrote:

> K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results?

Adrian,

The K3 is a 12-volt-powered transceiver. When running at 100 W and  
from a typical DC supply, its transmit 3rd-order IMD is very similar  
to that of other 12-V radios, as confirmed by multiple test labs.

A transceiver with a class-A final or running from much higher supply  
voltages (15 V is OK, as you mentioned) will have better IMD. But  
radios with built-in supplies are not suited for portability -- a  
major design goal of the K3, which is used by more DXpeditions than  
any other rig.

Also, I suspect most "splatter" comments derive from improper  
adjustment of the K3 when used with an external amplifier.

Some amplifier manufacturers still insist on instructing users to  
crank up their radio's power output to maximum when driving the amp,  
forcing the use of wideband ALC at the radio, and that can indeed  
result in splatter. But if you adjust the K3's power output as  
described in the owner's manual (with no more drive than required for  
full amp power), and do not depend on aggressive ALC action, its  
signal will be very clean. This allows all of the K3's fast ALC to be  
achieved *ahead* of the crystal filter, avoiding the wideband ALC  
splatter characteristic of transceivers designed for "crank-it-all-the- 
way-up" mode.

Also note that the K3 typically runs at 20-50 W when driving the  
KPA500 or other amp with similar gain, resulting in excellent third- 
order IMD.

If anyone had a K3 exhibiting IMD worse than specified, we would  
certainly repair it at no charge.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut *TIME CRITICAL*

[Erik Basilier]

Ron, I know what you are referring to. During my aborted attempt I first
removed the long screw, but gave up when I realized that I was up against
the voltage regulators. I put the screws back and packed the radio in a
case. Question: does this mean that I have some loose hardware now relating
to the standoff at the KAT3? The long screw seemed to tighten ok. In other
words, should I open the radio and follow your instructions, or can I be
reasonable confident and be on my way to FD? This is time critical.
Thanks,
Erik

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz] 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 3:06 PM
To: 'Erik Basilier'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

There are two additional complications to removing the right side panel. 

1) The top rear screw that secures the panel goes into a 2D fastener, just
like the other corner screws, but it's an extra long screw that goes all the
way through the 2D fastener and into a threaded standoff that is used to
secure the KAT3 or KANT3 board. To replace it correctly so the standoff is
tight against the 2D fastener, you need to:

 --Remove the mounting screw and lock washer holding the KAT3 or KANT3
board.
 --Replace the side panel and tighten the long screw in the 2D fastener.
 --Tighten the standoff against the 2D fastener.
 --Replace the KAT3 or KANT3 board mounting screw and lock washer.

2) The second issue is that there are two screws and nuts mounting two
voltage regulators, U12 and U14 on the side panel for heat sinking. They
must be removed *before* trying to remove the side panel. That's not too
hard if there is no KRX3 sub receiver installed (be aware there are lock
washers and nuts on those screws that must be removed and replaced). If the
sub-receiver is installed you must pull the sub-receiver module out of the
K3 to get to them.

That's why I suggested going in through the rear.  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I just swapped the sub rx from one K3 to another. With the right side panel
removed, the aux BNC is right there and you can use a small 7/16 open-end
wrench to tighten the nut.
Cheers and 73,

Fred Cady
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation"
www.ke7x.com

fcady at ieee dot org 

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[Elecraft] My KX3 shipping calculation

[dr.diesel]

Ok, this is kinda a joke, but with no info coming from Elecraft (and being
asked, not to ask) I have nothing else to go with.

Facts:

The first KX3 shipped on March 29th
Orders started Dec 27th
Currently orders from Dec 29th are shipping, we'll assume all orders from
the 29th have shipped.

This ratio is for every 2 days of orders takes 2.5 Months to process, or
1.25 months per day.

Since I ordered my KX3 on Jan 9th, it should arrive somewhere around August
2013.  Plenty of time for me to rethink and pre-order a K4 at Dayton next
year!



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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Scott Manthe]

I've never seen a FT5000 for anywhere close to $4900, if you got yours 
for that let us know where and I'll buy one tomorrow to resell. The 
cheapest I've seen them sell for is $5300. And yes, as long as you run 
it in class A and don't turn on the processor, it has a relatively clean 
transmitter, but then it is a 75 watt radio, not 200.

73,
Scott, N9AA

On 6/22/12 5:22 PM, Fred Smith wrote:
> The base model 5000 sells for $4895 and still has more options plus 200w and
> a class A transmitter you need to check you specs since all the updates and
> upgrades were done to this radio. As far as the transmitter it's one of the
> cleanest made. Key clicks mean nothing to me even though I think that was
> fixed by Yaesu since the first were released. I'm a SSB/Digital op so CW
> wasn't in the mix for me.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred/N0AZZ
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I'm a CW operator so it's not an issue to me personally, but I'm always
interested in data. I went to that link and found an opinion not backed by
any data. 

What I do know from personal experience is that ANY rig can make a dirty
signal if operated improperly or connected to a poorly designed or operated
outboard amp. 

Also, some rigs ARE better than others, which is why I was disappointed to
find just an opinion not substantiated by any data. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
See;

http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html

Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.


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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Adrian]

Also see

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg70785.html

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Adrian
Sent: Saturday, 23 June 2012 7:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
See;

http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html

Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.



>A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in 
>all
slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
exceeds the K3's >receiver performance in one category, and trails the K3 in
every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior transmitter,
as evidenced by the >IMD numbers in ARRL test results and elsewhere.

>73,
>Scott, N9AA



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

There are two additional complications to removing the right side panel. 

1) The top rear screw that secures the panel goes into a 2D fastener, just
like the other corner screws, but it's an extra long screw that goes all the
way through the 2D fastener and into a threaded standoff that is used to
secure the KAT3 or KANT3 board. To replace it correctly so the standoff is
tight against the 2D fastener, you need to:

 --Remove the mounting screw and lock washer holding the KAT3 or KANT3
board.
 --Replace the side panel and tighten the long screw in the 2D fastener.
 --Tighten the standoff against the 2D fastener.
 --Replace the KAT3 or KANT3 board mounting screw and lock washer.

2) The second issue is that there are two screws and nuts mounting two
voltage regulators, U12 and U14 on the side panel for heat sinking. They
must be removed *before* trying to remove the side panel. That's not too
hard if there is no KRX3 sub receiver installed (be aware there are lock
washers and nuts on those screws that must be removed and replaced). If the
sub-receiver is installed you must pull the sub-receiver module out of the
K3 to get to them.

That's why I suggested going in through the rear.  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I just swapped the sub rx from one K3 to another. With the right side panel
removed, the aux BNC is right there and you can use a small 7/16 open-end
wrench to tighten the nut.
Cheers and 73,

Fred Cady
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation"
www.ke7x.com

fcady at ieee dot org 

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Adrian]

K3 a superior transmitter in imd product results? Your kidding right?
Out in the real world the K3 has a bad rep for splatter and imd3 product.
See;

http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php/topic,75182.0.html

Those of us with K3's running 15v PS with heavy cable inputs, driving clean
amps escape the wrath of the imd police.
The 5000 is way better esp in class A operation.



>A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in all
slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
exceeds the K3's >receiver performance in one category, and trails the K3 in
every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior transmitter,
as evidenced by the >IMD numbers in ARRL test results and elsewhere.

>73,
>Scott, N9AA



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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Fred Smith]

The base model 5000 sells for $4895 and still has more options plus 200w and
a class A transmitter you need to check you specs since all the updates and
upgrades were done to this radio. As far as the transmitter it's one of the
cleanest made. Key clicks mean nothing to me even though I think that was
fixed by Yaesu since the first were released. I'm a SSB/Digital op so CW
wasn't in the mix for me.

73,

Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Scott Manthe
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 12:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad


A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in all
slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
exceeds the K3's receiver performance in one category, and trails the K3 in
every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior transmitter,
as evidenced by the IMD numbers in ARRL test results and elsewhere.

So, yes, the FT-5000 is on top in one RX category and the amount of IMD its
transmitter can splatter across the bands, and all for only $700 more. And
they throw the key clicks in for free! But that splatter and key clicks are
valuable weapons in the contesting arsenal, because ops near an FT-5000
can't work 'em if they can't hear 'em.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 6/22/12 7:54 AM, Fred Smith wrote:
> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would be
very
> pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully loaded K3
at
> about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has the
5000
> is on top but the K3 is still very close...
>
> 73,
> Fred/N0AZZ
>
>

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2437/5084 - Release Date: 06/21/12

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Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[va3bxg]

I carried on a KX3 (#33) with a MFJ-1899 antenna. From CDN their only concern 
was that the antenna was not a police  club. On the return trip from the US, 
not even a blink.




Robert

a 'kosher' ham 
Sent from my BlackBerry device

-Original Message-
From: Ian Kahn 
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 13:30:24 
To: Ronald Nutter
Cc: elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

Ron,

The last time I travelled with a rig, it was an FT-857D.  I was able to put
it and all the cables I needed into my carry-on, which was just my regular
attache/brief case.  I attached a copy of my license to the top of the
rig.  I had the rig and power cable.  I didn't have a power supply because
I was renting a vehicle and driving back home (bizarre business trip - I'll
tell you the gory details off-list if you really want to know).  Anyway,
TSA didn't even give the rig and cabling a second look.  As to antennas,
because this was a trip to one of my company's offices in Metro DC, I just
shipped my antennas, mounts, and other necessaries ahead to one of my
co-workers.  Don't know if that is an option for you or not.

Hope this helps.

73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 1:24 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

> I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP station with
> me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of dealing with TSA, I dont
> think I should have a problem with putting the KX3, a power supply, the
> pigtail wifi interface, and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The
> antennas is where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a
> couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to pack them in
> my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[Tom McCulloch]

Tyler,

I had this key down problem as well.  Don's advice to me regarding the 
use of a stereo plug was exactly the fix.  I'm not sure why your plug is 
working on a different K2, though.

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103

On 6/22/2012 4:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Tyler,
>
> I would venture a guess that you have a mono plug on that straight key.
> Put a stereo plug on it (no - an adapter will not work) and connect the
> key to the tip and to the shell.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Cady, Fred]

I just swapped the sub rx from one K3 to another. With the right side
panel removed, the aux BNC is right there and you can use a small 7/16
open-end wrench to tighten the nut.
Cheers and 73,

Fred Cady
"The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation"
www.ke7x.com

fcady at ieee dot org 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
> boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Erik Basilier
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 11:34 AM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut
> 
> Just pulled my K3 off the operating shelf for travel to Field Day.
> Discovered that the AUX RF BNC connector is quite loose. Started to
> loosen
> adjoining case panels to tighten the nut, but didn't find a way to
> easily
> get at the nut. Since I don't need this connection for FD, and I don't
> have
> time to spend, I will just defer fixing the problem until I get home.
> However, if there is a best way to do the job, without removing the
> second
> RX etc, I'd like to know. Any advice?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Erik K7TV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Matthew Zilmer]

When I was checking the mod instructions out, I discovered the same thing.  
While in that area, I did exactly as Ron suggested.  Call it a ten minute job!

Matt Zilmer
Consultant - Product Management Dept.
Magellan Navigation / MiTAC Digital Corp.
Tel: (909) 394-6052
Cell: (909) 730-6552
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 1:46 PM
To: 'Erik Basilier'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

Erik, probably the easiest way to get to the nut is through the KPA100 
enclosure. Download the 12DC Power Mod instructions 
(http://www.elecraft.com/manual/12VDC%20Current%20Modification.pdf ) They show 
you how to get into the rear panel, by removing the fan panel and
KPA100 module (ignore the instructions about removing the bottom cover).

I bet you can get in and tighten it up and get out all in less than 30 minutes 
even if working very slowly and carefully.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Just pulled my K3 off the operating shelf for travel to Field Day.
Discovered that the AUX RF BNC connector is quite loose. Started to loosen 
adjoining case panels to tighten the nut, but didn't find a way to easily get 
at the nut. Since I don't need this connection for FD, and I don't have time to 
spend, I will just defer fixing the problem until I get home.
However, if there is a best way to do the job, without removing the second RX 
etc, I'd like to know. Any advice?



Thanks and 73,

Erik K7TV

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[Elecraft] [KAT500] Planning for KAT500

[Phil Hystad]

I am on the waiting list for my KAT500 -- waiting - waiting - waiting

But, in the mean time I am planning for how I want to arrange the switching of 
my various antennas.  I understand the KAT500 has 3 antenna connections so 
first a couple of questions:

1.  Will the automatic features of the tuner include automatic band switching ? 
  That is, if I am operating on my 80 meter dipole and then I switch my K3 to 
the 20 meter band will my 20-meter Hexbeam automatically be switched in 
(assuming I have it also connected to the KAT500)?

2.  I have four antennas:  80-meter dipole, 40-meter dipole, and 30-meter 
dipole, plus my Traffie Hexbeam that handles 20 meter through 10 meters.  I 
would like to hook up permanently my 80 meter and the Traffie hexbeam to two of 
the KAT500 antenna connections and then also switch in the 40-meter dipole and 
30-meter dipole into the third antenna connection on the KAT500.  So, let's say 
I am on 40 meters and I switch to 30 meters but I need to also manually switch 
my 40-meter and 30-meter since they share the same port.  Will the KAT500 know 
how to handle this?  [Note:  my 30-meter dipole though is 1.3:1 and better 
across the entire 30-meter band so maybe I don't even need the KAT500].

3.  How do I tell the KAT500 that the five bands (20m thru 10m) are found on 
one given antenna connection (to my hexbeam)?  Or, does the KAT500 learn this 
or do I manually help it out by some stored assignment.

4.  Which brings up my final question:  will the KAT500 be a "smart" device 
with a computer interface like many other Elecraft devices?  Is this how I 
might preset bands to be associated with antenna connections.  Note, my 
80-meter dipole can actually work well on 40 and 30 but not as well as my 
40-meter and 30-meter dipoles.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Erik, probably the easiest way to get to the nut is through the KPA100
enclosure. Download the 12DC Power Mod instructions
(http://www.elecraft.com/manual/12VDC%20Current%20Modification.pdf ) They
show you how to get into the rear panel, by removing the fan panel and
KPA100 module (ignore the instructions about removing the bottom cover). 

I bet you can get in and tighten it up and get out all in less than 30
minutes even if working very slowly and carefully. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Just pulled my K3 off the operating shelf for travel to Field Day.
Discovered that the AUX RF BNC connector is quite loose. Started to loosen
adjoining case panels to tighten the nut, but didn't find a way to easily
get at the nut. Since I don't need this connection for FD, and I don't have
time to spend, I will just defer fixing the problem until I get home.
However, if there is a best way to do the job, without removing the second
RX etc, I'd like to know. Any advice?

 

Thanks and 73,

Erik K7TV

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Tyler,

On your second question (speaker not killed when headphones inserted) - 
you have a broken headphone jack.
Once you get the mono plug off the hand key, use it (with no wires 
attached) to insert into the external speaker jack and kill the speaker 
sound as a temporary measure until you can get the headphone jack changed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 4:35 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:
> I've got an early K2 SN 2608, with 2 problemsand Field Day is almost here 
> :-(
>
> I have a key plugged into the rear key jack, and the Menu set to "Paddle -> 
> Hand Key".
> When I key the radio, it stays key-down until I unplug the cable from the K2.
> I've borrowed another K2, and using the same cable it works fine.
> Any ideas on this?
>
> Another minor problem is that it doesn't mute the speaker when plugging in 
> the headphones.
> I can live with this, but the key-down issue is a killer.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Tyler,

I would venture a guess that you have a mono plug on that straight key.
Put a stereo plug on it (no - an adapter will not work) and connect the 
key to the tip and to the shell.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 4:35 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:
> I've got an early K2 SN 2608, with 2 problemsand Field Day is almost here 
> :-(
>
> I have a key plugged into the rear key jack, and the Menu set to "Paddle -> 
> Hand Key".
> When I key the radio, it stays key-down until I unplug the cable from the K2.
> I've borrowed another K2, and using the same cable it works fine.
> Any ideas on this?
>
> Another minor problem is that it doesn't mute the speaker when plugging in 
> the headphones.
> I can live with this, but the key-down issue is a killer.
>
> Thanks!  Tyler N4TY
>

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[Elecraft] K2 key-down issue

[Tyler Barnett]

I've got an early K2 SN 2608, with 2 problemsand Field Day is almost here 
:-(

I have a key plugged into the rear key jack, and the Menu set to "Paddle -> 
Hand Key".
When I key the radio, it stays key-down until I unplug the cable from the K2.
I've borrowed another K2, and using the same cable it works fine.  
Any ideas on this?

Another minor problem is that it doesn't mute the speaker when plugging in the 
headphones.
I can live with this, but the key-down issue is a killer.

Thanks!  Tyler N4TY
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K2/100 plus KAT100-1

[Frank van Dijk]

The KAT100-1 has been sold. The K2/100 still up for sale.


Hi there!

For sale a fully loaded K2/100 and a KAT100-1 antenna tuner. In 
excellent working condition. First owner, no scratches, non smoking 
environment.
Reason: lack of time. Serial number 6K. It has the following options:

KPA100
K160RX
KSB2
K60XV
KNB2
MH2
KIO2
FDIMP

Ask 900 Euros plus shipping for the K2/100 and 150 Euros plus shipping 
for the KAT100-1. Please reply off list to p...@dx.nl

73, Frank
PA7F
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Bill K9YEQ]

Exactly... or take the KX3, even lighter... or take both and share :-)

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 12:49 PM
To: Scott Manthe
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

Another nice thing about the K3 is that you can take it to Field Day.  
(10 pounds vs. 50 pounds, and 1 amp receive current drain vs. 3 or 4 amps :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jun 22, 2012, at 10:26 AM, Scott Manthe wrote:

>
> A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in 
> all slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The 
> FT-5000 exceeds the K3's receiver performance in one category, and 
> trails the K3 in every other RX performance category. The K3 also has 
> a superior transmitter, as evidenced by the IMD numbers in ARRL test 
> results and elsewhere.
>
> So, yes, the FT-5000 is on top in one RX category and the amount of 
> IMD its transmitter can splatter across the bands, and all for only 
> $700 more. And they throw the key clicks in for free! But that 
> splatter and key clicks are valuable weapons in the contesting 
> arsenal, because ops near an FT-5000 can't work 'em if they can't hear 
> 'em.
>
> 73,
> Scott, N9AA
>
>
> On 6/22/12 7:54 AM, Fred Smith wrote:
>> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would 
>> be very pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a 
>> fully loaded K3 at about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. 
>> Performance wise has the 5000 is on top but the K3 is still very 
>> close...
>>
>> 73,
>> Fred/N0AZZ
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 6M on K3 (SAD)

[Bill K9YEQ]

I fired up the K3 for the recent Vhf contest.  I have the preamp installed.
I used the SmallIR at 3/4 wave with only 11 radials running 100 watts.  I
worked to east coast stations Q5 both ends.  SWR was 3.2:1 as I need to add
more radials.  It was a pleasure.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of r miles
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 11:57 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sad


You'd love a K3 on 6m. I've not gotten the pre amp yet but I hear well with
a  modest  short boom 5 el yagi. What I really love is the KPA500. 
Man that 500w on 6m is the difference. Not to the century mark yet just
89/88 but if 6m ever picks up this summer I hope to get closer. Been DXing
for 50 yr.s & as a CW OP it's the best RX I have used & I've used every
brand you could name and then some.

K9IL

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools

[Don Wilhelm]

Fred,

I put one in a friend's K3, and it only took about an hour.  Most of 
that time was in removing the PA assembly and putting it back.

The components were removed by alternately heating the ends (one at a 
time) until they cold be flicked off the solder pads.

I have decent mobility and good solder/de-solder skills.  So if you have 
problems with arthritis and poor eyes and drink a lot of coffee, it may 
be wise to let someone else do it for you.  Do you have any capable hams 
nearby that might give you a hand.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 2:47 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
> Please see comments below.
>
>   
>
> -Original Message-
> From: bill ny9h [mailto:n...@arrl.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:33 AM
> To: Fred Townsend; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools
>
>   
>
>   
>
>>   I'd like to tell you was easy but it's not. I'm a professional so I
>> have all the tools. It took me about three hours.
> 
>
> Hi Fred & all
>
> you must have been missing the one tool which made it easy  my good ole
> Hakko solder sucker, which i bought before swapping all the crystals in the
> K2 crystal filter.
>
>   
>
> Bill I have numerous suckers including a thousand dollar desoldering
> machine. The problem is suckers tend to generate solder balls. Like the
> other gentleman that replied I used solder wick. I also took considerable
> time to clean flux residues, ohmmeter the circuit, and inspect.  Yes the
> documentation is excellent and no it's still not a simple task, particularly
> if you have poor eyes, arthritis, or drink a lot of coffee which are the
> questions I heard Dennis asking.
>
> FT
>
>   
>
>   
>
>   
>
> I opened up the bottom , top & back Fan assembly.
>
> >From the bottom, with the set upside down, let the Hakko do it magic on the
> four pads, which dropped the two parts on the table  then inserted the
> two new parts,,,resoldered,, lids closed.
>
>   
>
> bill  ny9h/3
>
>   
>
> 
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TX monitoring

[Harold V]

I discovered this by accident a couple of weeks ago.

It does not involve removing any cables, reprogramming or anything like that.  
It's all done with the freeze function of the P3 display and the P3 Utility 
program version 1.3.8.25.

I sent this information to a friend of mine who also has a K3/P3 and it works 
for him.

I have only done this with SSB so I don't know if it works in other modes.

Be sure you are using PTT because once you stop transmitting the P3 reverts to 
normal operation

Before you try this you must assign the freeze function to a function button on 
the P3.

Then, the exact steps are as follows:

1. turn on the K3, P3 and your computer
2. make sure the computer is connected to the P3 and the P3 to the K3
3. start the P3 utility program and select the capture image TAB
4. press the function button you assigned to freeze the P3 display
5. press the capture image BUTTON in the P3 Utility program
6. WAIT until the image is captured and the capture image button regains focus
7. press and HOLD your PTT switch on the K3
8. press the function button on the P3 to unfreeze the display
9. your transmitted signal should display real time on the P3 until you release 
the PTT

This works every time for me.  I sent an email to info at Elecraft about a week 
ago asking if they could figure this out and incorporate it into the normal 
operation of the P3 but have not yet received a reply.

It will sometimes work simply by freezing the P3 display, hitting the PTT and 
then unfreezing the P3 display but it will consistently work for me by 
following 
the steps shown above.

Try it and see if it works for you.

Van
K0HCV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools

[Fred Townsend]

Please see comments below.

 

-Original Message-
From: bill ny9h [mailto:n...@arrl.net] 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:33 AM
To: Fred Townsend; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools

 

 

>  I'd like to tell you was easy but it's not. I'm a professional so I 

>have all the tools. It took me about three hours.



Hi Fred & all

you must have been missing the one tool which made it easy  my good ole
Hakko solder sucker, which i bought before swapping all the crystals in the
K2 crystal filter.

 

Bill I have numerous suckers including a thousand dollar desoldering
machine. The problem is suckers tend to generate solder balls. Like the
other gentleman that replied I used solder wick. I also took considerable
time to clean flux residues, ohmmeter the circuit, and inspect.  Yes the
documentation is excellent and no it's still not a simple task, particularly
if you have poor eyes, arthritis, or drink a lot of coffee which are the
questions I heard Dennis asking.

FT

 

 

 

I opened up the bottom , top & back Fan assembly.

>From the bottom, with the set upside down, let the Hakko do it magic on the
four pads, which dropped the two parts on the table  then inserted the
two new parts,,,resoldered,, lids closed.

 

bill  ny9h/3

 

   

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Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna

[Doug Turnbull]

Would it help to increase the delay in transmitting, CW rise time?   I know
there are products available from a few sources which introduce an extra
delay between TX and RX to overcome your situation.   With My K3 and
inverted L the separation of K9AY and inverted L is greater than yours but
not as much as I would like and all is okay.   Previously I had problems
with an Orion 2 when using an RX antenna.   Experimenting with the delay is
easy to do.

73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of mikefur...@att.net
Sent: 22 June 2012 15:20
To: d...@w3fpr.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna

Thought I hit the reply all button ..

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:26 AM 
To: mikefur...@att.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna 

Mike,

It would be good if you post that to the Elecraft reflector just for 
general information.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 9:20 AM, mikefur...@att.net wrote:
> I have a touchy situation in which my K9AY RX loop is 40' from 160 
> inverted "L" (very small lot).  I had to install a relay to disconnect 
> the receive antenna from the radio during transmit due to too much 
> energy getting back into the rig.
>
> 73, Mike WA5POK
>
> -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 5:59 AM
> To: Robert 'RC' Conley
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna
>
> RC,
>
> The receiver is muted during transmit - that has nothing to do with a
> receive antenna.
> I don't know how to mute an antenna, but it is certainly not 
> disconnected.
>
> Locate your RX antenna away from the transmit antennas, and if you hear
> the COR being activated (relay clicking noise) take action to reduce the
> RF energy coming in on the RX antenna.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/21/2012 10:22 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:
>>   when you have a receive antenna hooked up and you go into transmit, 
>> is the
>> RX antenna port is MUTED, or is disconnected.
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[Don Wilhelm]

Curt,

Behavior like that is almost always associated with a bad connection.
Check the soldering at the tuning pot.  If it is an older K1, there is a 
great possibility that the VFO pot could be worn enough to cause that 
behavior.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 8:05 AM, Curt wrote:
> My K1 has developed a glitch.  Sometimes, while tuning, the displayed
> frequency will suddenly jump down about 10-15 kHz, then return to the
> correct frequency.  I hear some static in the headphones at the same time.
> The jump isn't caused by tapping the case, only moving the tuning knob.  It
> doesn't seem related to a specific "spot" on the pot.  Without rotating the
> tuning pot, there is no frequency instability at all.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[Mike Morrow]

> My K1 has developed a glitch.  Sometimes, while tuning, the
> displayed frequency will suddenly jump down about 10-15 kHz,
> then return to the correct frequency...
> The jump isn't caused by tapping the case, only moving the
> tuning knob.

Check the solder connections on both ends of the leads going
from the VFO pot to the front panel board.  In particular,
check the solder connections of R19 that is soldered to two
terminals of the VFO pot.  If you move these components
slightly while watching the LCD for erratic response you may
be able to find the exact problem source.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

I love the size.  With big hands I thought the smaller footprint might 
be a negative.  It is not! All the knobs are easy to use, buttons easy 
to push and not push 3 at the same time.   What I find is I rarely have 
to change anything when operating.  Other rigs I was always trying to 
tune this, improve the reception etc.  Not with the K3.

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com
Http://www.w0mu.com

On 6/22/2012 11:48 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> Another nice thing about the K3 is that you can take it to Field Day.
> (10 pounds vs. 50 pounds, and 1 amp receive current drain vs. 3 or 4
> amps :)
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> On Jun 22, 2012, at 10:26 AM, Scott Manthe wrote:
>
>> A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in
>> all
>> slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
>> exceeds the K3's receiver performance in one category, and trails
>> the K3
>> in every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior
>> transmitter, as evidenced by the IMD numbers in ARRL test results and
>> elsewhere.
>>
>> So, yes, the FT-5000 is on top in one RX category and the amount of
>> IMD
>> its transmitter can splatter across the bands, and all for only $700
>> more. And they throw the key clicks in for free! But that splatter and
>> key clicks are valuable weapons in the contesting arsenal, because ops
>> near an FT-5000 can't work 'em if they can't hear 'em.
>>
>> 73,
>> Scott, N9AA
>>
>>
>> On 6/22/12 7:54 AM, Fred Smith wrote:
>>> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would
>>> be very
>>> pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully
>>> loaded K3 at
>>> about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has
>>> the 5000
>>> is on top but the K3 is still very close...
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Fred/N0AZZ
>>>
>>>
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[Elecraft] FW: Happy But Very Sad

[Mike Sanders]

Sorry I thought I had sent this to the reflector. Possibly someone
else wanted to see my response. So, just in case. 73

Mike Sanders
KØAZ




-Original Message-
From: Mike Sanders [mailto:k...@centurytel.net]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 11:47 AM
To: Brian Alsop
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad


Brian, I am not sure you read my email.
I have no S/N or S/N+N ratio reading with the device
I am using in my hamshack. MDS? The IFR 1200 series
of service monitors are calibrated down to .1 microvolt and
down to -120 dbm at just over .2 microvolt. There is a "fine"
tuning on a ring around the attenuator switch that allows for
excursions up or down in signal level.
MDS? I had the attenuator at .1 microvolt and the fine tune
all the way down but still could not lose the signal. My comment
ABOUT -130dbm was a guess. When I bottomed out the attenuator
I still had a USUABLE SIGNAL that I could have worked. That
being said and all the guesses and assumptions I am making
tell me that these transverters are hot.
This is not a laboratory it's just a ham shack. I am very happy
with the performance of these transverters. 73



Mike Sanders
KØAZ





-Original Message-
From: Brian Alsop [mailto:als...@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 9:45 AM
To: Mike Sanders
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad


Mike,

0.1 uV for what S/N?  What is MDS?
-130 dBm doesn't strike me as being that great on 6 and 2M.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 6/22/2012 14:22, Mike Sanders wrote:
> 6 Meters?
> I have 2 K2s one 10W unit and 1 100W unit.
> Both are pretty well loaded up.
> I just bought a 6 and 2 meter Elecraft transverter
> used. Got them on the bench yesterday and finally
> working after I corrected a problem I made.
> Anyway I have used a lot of radios on 6, 2 and
> beyond for a long time. Also a lot of good IF radios
> with good transverters.
> The XV50 and XV144 are about as good as I have
> seen or used. Yesterday I measured the RX sensitivity
> on an IFR1200 super S at .1 microvolt and well less
> than that for a usable signal on CW. That is about
> -130db. I think I will enjoy using these Elecraft Tvrtrs.
> They both did rated output easily and can drive external
> amplifiers.
> Please do not take my RX measurements as gospel
> but I am pretty sure they are very close to what I found
> with this service monitor. Obviously your mileage may
> vary.
> So my 756PROIII and 746PRO may not see much 6 or
> 2 meter use in the future. With the 100W K2 driving the
> PW1 they may not see much use at all..73
>
>
>
>  Mike Sanders
>  KOAZ
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Wayne Burdick]

Another nice thing about the K3 is that you can take it to Field Day.  
(10 pounds vs. 50 pounds, and 1 amp receive current drain vs. 3 or 4  
amps :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jun 22, 2012, at 10:26 AM, Scott Manthe wrote:

>
> A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in  
> all
> slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000
> exceeds the K3's receiver performance in one category, and trails  
> the K3
> in every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior
> transmitter, as evidenced by the IMD numbers in ARRL test results and
> elsewhere.
>
> So, yes, the FT-5000 is on top in one RX category and the amount of  
> IMD
> its transmitter can splatter across the bands, and all for only $700
> more. And they throw the key clicks in for free! But that splatter and
> key clicks are valuable weapons in the contesting arsenal, because ops
> near an FT-5000 can't work 'em if they can't hear 'em.
>
> 73,
> Scott, N9AA
>
>
> On 6/22/12 7:54 AM, Fred Smith wrote:
>> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would  
>> be very
>> pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully  
>> loaded K3 at
>> about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has  
>> the 5000
>> is on top but the K3 is still very close...
>>
>> 73,
>> Fred/N0AZZ
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Sad

[Lance Collister, W7GJ]

On 6/22/2012 4:56 PM, r miles wrote:
> You'd love a K3 on 6m. I've not gotten the pre amp yet but I hear well
> with a  modest  short boom 5 el yagi. What I really love is the KPA500.
> Man that 500w on 6m is the difference. Not to the century mark yet just
> 89/88 but if 6m ever picks up this summer I hope to get closer. Been
> DXing for 50 yr.s & as a CW OP it's the best RX I have used & I've used
> every brand you could name and then some.
>
> K9IL
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You will REALLY notice a significant improvement on 6m with a preamp on the K3! 
 TNX 
for the contact during the June ARRL contest ;-)GL and VY 73, Lance

-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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[Elecraft] K3 Quickest way to access loose AUX RF nut

[Erik Basilier]

Just pulled my K3 off the operating shelf for travel to Field Day.
Discovered that the AUX RF BNC connector is quite loose. Started to loosen
adjoining case panels to tighten the nut, but didn't find a way to easily
get at the nut. Since I don't need this connection for FD, and I don't have
time to spend, I will just defer fixing the problem until I get home.
However, if there is a best way to do the job, without removing the second
RX etc, I'd like to know. Any advice?

 

Thanks and 73,

Erik K7TV

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Re: [Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[Ian Kahn]

Ron,

The last time I travelled with a rig, it was an FT-857D.  I was able to put
it and all the cables I needed into my carry-on, which was just my regular
attache/brief case.  I attached a copy of my license to the top of the
rig.  I had the rig and power cable.  I didn't have a power supply because
I was renting a vehicle and driving back home (bizarre business trip - I'll
tell you the gory details off-list if you really want to know).  Anyway,
TSA didn't even give the rig and cabling a second look.  As to antennas,
because this was a trip to one of my company's offices in Metro DC, I just
shipped my antennas, mounts, and other necessaries ahead to one of my
co-workers.  Don't know if that is an option for you or not.

Hope this helps.

73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 1:24 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

> I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP station with
> me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of dealing with TSA, I dont
> think I should have a problem with putting the KX3, a power supply, the
> pigtail wifi interface, and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The
> antennas is where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a
> couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to pack them in
> my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Scott Manthe]

A fully-loaded K3 is about $4900, and that assumes 8 pole filters in all 
slots in both receivers. A fully loaded FT-5000 is $5600. The FT-5000 
exceeds the K3's receiver performance in one category, and trails the K3 
in every other RX performance category. The K3 also has a superior 
transmitter, as evidenced by the IMD numbers in ARRL test results and 
elsewhere.

So, yes, the FT-5000 is on top in one RX category and the amount of IMD 
its transmitter can splatter across the bands, and all for only $700 
more. And they throw the key clicks in for free! But that splatter and 
key clicks are valuable weapons in the contesting arsenal, because ops 
near an FT-5000 can't work 'em if they can't hear 'em.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 6/22/12 7:54 AM, Fred Smith wrote:
> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would be very
> pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully loaded K3 at
> about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has the 5000
> is on top but the K3 is still very close...
>
> 73,
> Fred/N0AZZ
>
>

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[Elecraft] Questions about taking a QRP station on the plane

[Ronald Nutter]

I will be doing some travelling and plan on taking a QRP station with 
me.  I have a KX3 on order.  With the hassle of dealing with TSA, I dont 
think I should have a problem with putting the KX3, a power supply, the 
pigtail wifi interface, and a few other things in a Pelican case.  The 
antennas is where I will probably run into a problem.  I am looking at a 
couple of different antennas but expect that I will have to pack them in 
my luggage.  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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Re: [Elecraft] Sad

[r miles]

You'd love a K3 on 6m. I've not gotten the pre amp yet but I hear well 
with a  modest  short boom 5 el yagi. What I really love is the KPA500. 
Man that 500w on 6m is the difference. Not to the century mark yet just 
89/88 but if 6m ever picks up this summer I hope to get closer. Been 
DXing for 50 yr.s & as a CW OP it's the best RX I have used & I've used 
every brand you could name and then some.

K9IL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

[Paul Saffren N6HZ]

I did the first one at my bench, and while I had a solder sucker available to
me, I didn't use it.  I simply used some de-soldering braid.  First I
removed the old F2 part, then completely filled the holes with new solder
and finally used the solder-wick to remove all the solder.  Works like a
champ.  Did this for the inductor as well.  The SMD part is a little
trickier, and  I'm no spring chicken either.  The first thing you need is a
really good magnifier, I prefer the goofy looking visor style.  To remove
the old diode, I simply heat up one side with the iron and flick it up so it
is only held by the other pad, then remove it completely. 
I next use the solder-wick to completely clean the pads and then apply a
very, very small amount of solder to one of the pads. Holding the new part
with tweezers I place it on the pads and tap the soldering iron to the pad
that has a little solder, then solder the other side and come back and clean
up the first side.  The trick is to use a very small amount of solder.  If
there is a blob on either end, you've used too much and can use some
solder-wick to clean it up. 

Ron did a great job on the instructions.  As he suggests, just take your
time.  If a software engineer can do one, anyone can. 

-Paul



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-12VDC-OUT-current-modification-tp7557906p7557942.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification...tools

[bill ny9h]

>  I'd like to tell you was easy but it's not. I'm a professional so I
>have all the tools. It took me about three hours.

Hi Fred & all
you must have been missing the one tool which made it easy 
my good ole Hakko solder sucker, which i bought before swapping all 
the crystals in the K2 crystal filter.

I opened up the bottom , top & back Fan assembly.
 From the bottom, with the set upside down, let the Hakko do it magic 
on the four pads, which dropped
the two parts on the table  then inserted the two new 
parts,,,resoldered,, lids closed.

bill  ny9h/3

   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Remember that all of these procedures are tested by actually doing them
using ONLY the tools listed with careful attention to the issues someone
digging into their K3 for the very first time might encounter.

The end result of doing the actual mod is what you see in the photos in the
document.

If there's a 'trick' to being successful doing these mods, it's time. Take
your time. Never rush. (Only in the movies does the hero rush a repair or
mod, and they always have another prop just off camera to use when he messes
it up.)

73, Ron AC7AC 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] 12 July 2012 NIGHT OF NIGHTS XIII - SAVE THE DATE

[Les Gasser W9XC]

Ron, this announcement led me to the radiomarine.org site, and from there to
the magnificent on-air recordings of the coastal stations and marine operations.

What a fantastic historical resource - not to mention a superb trove of
real-world (and often hand-keyed) CW that is great for CW practice, right in
the context of the golden age of CW. For a sense of realism they definitely
beat the W1AW code practice runs (which are a great service, don't get me 
wrong).

Thanks for posting this,

- Les, W9XC

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Re: [Elecraft] Ordering a KX3

[Lance Collister, W7GJ]

Merry Christmas!  ;-)

On 6/22/2012 2:04 PM, Mike Herr wrote:
> Well, I did it. After watching the KX3 phenomenon, losing the weight I
> promised myself and getting paid on some consulting work, I pulled the
> trigger and ordered a KX3. Let the people rejoice!
>


-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Mike Sanders]

6 Meters? 
I have 2 K2s one 10W unit and 1 100W unit.
Both are pretty well loaded up. 
I just bought a 6 and 2 meter Elecraft transverter
used. Got them on the bench yesterday and finally
working after I corrected a problem I made.
Anyway I have used a lot of radios on 6, 2 and
beyond for a long time. Also a lot of good IF radios
with good transverters.
The XV50 and XV144 are about as good as I have
seen or used. Yesterday I measured the RX sensitivity
on an IFR1200 super S at .1 microvolt and well less
than that for a usable signal on CW. That is about
-130db. I think I will enjoy using these Elecraft Tvrtrs.
They both did rated output easily and can drive external
amplifiers.
Please do not take my RX measurements as gospel
but I am pretty sure they are very close to what I found
with this service monitor. Obviously your mileage may
vary.
So my 756PROIII and 746PRO may not see much 6 or
2 meter use in the future. With the 100W K2 driving the
PW1 they may not see much use at all..73

 
 
Mike Sanders 
KOAZ
   
 
 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Jason Hissong
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad


Sell the 950 and use the proceeds to get all the additional options
for your K2 (or maybe a nice chunk of change to save for a K3).

Just don't expect to sell it to many on this list..  :-)

I am building my third K2 (I sold the previous ones to pay for other
things, not because of the radio) and will be eventually putting all
the extras in it.  It will become my main station rig.  My 756 will
then be used for 6 meters or eventually sold.

Someday a K3 will find its way into my shack but until then, the K2
will fill my needs just fine.

Congrats on your K2.

73,
Jason N8XE

On 6/21/12, Mike Bellow  wrote:
> Hi All
> I recently picked up a used K2 locally here that was out of
> alignment,had to wait for freq probe that I ordered from Elecraft which
> arrived very fast,after doing a alignment on the radio,and After I set
> it up,I was very happy to see it works very well.This is my first
> Elecraft radio and this one is a #01014 serial number one of the early
> ones I guess.Now the Sad Part..Today I was listening on 14060 as
> usual for qrp stations and heard a very very faint station calling CQ
> Qrp,if I were to tag a rst report on this one I would say 119 no s meter
> reading at all but I could copy it fine.For comparison I hooked my Brand
> New "2 months old" Yaesu Ft-950 and guess what??? Could not hear
> anything there but Staticno signal at all.$1400.00
> for this radioNow I'm Happy but very sad.
>
>
> W2TI/QRP
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1424 / Virus Database: 2433/5086 - Release Date: 06/22/12
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Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna

[mikefurrey]

Thought I hit the reply all button ..

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 8:26 AM 
To: mikefur...@att.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna 

Mike,

It would be good if you post that to the Elecraft reflector just for 
general information.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/22/2012 9:20 AM, mikefur...@att.net wrote:
> I have a touchy situation in which my K9AY RX loop is 40' from 160 
> inverted "L" (very small lot).  I had to install a relay to disconnect 
> the receive antenna from the radio during transmit due to too much 
> energy getting back into the rig.
>
> 73, Mike WA5POK
>
> -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 5:59 AM
> To: Robert 'RC' Conley
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna
>
> RC,
>
> The receiver is muted during transmit - that has nothing to do with a
> receive antenna.
> I don't know how to mute an antenna, but it is certainly not 
> disconnected.
>
> Locate your RX antenna away from the transmit antennas, and if you hear
> the COR being activated (relay clicking noise) take action to reduce the
> RF energy coming in on the RX antenna.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/21/2012 10:22 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:
>>   when you have a receive antenna hooked up and you go into transmit, 
>> is the
>> RX antenna port is MUTED, or is disconnected.
>>
>
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[Elecraft] FW: More Cowbell (was More Bass?)

[Terry Schieler]

Sorry.  Had to get that in before they closed this thread.  ;o)

Terry, W0FM



-Original Message-
From: Keith Heimbold [mailto:ag...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2012 1:30 PM
To: KQ8M
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Bass?

Chilean bass is not bad either


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Re: [Elecraft] KXBC3 ?

[JP O'Connor]

On Wednesday (20 June) Wayne said in a message on the KX3 Yahoo group: "The
KXBC3 is working but still being finalized. Your humble firmware guy is in
the critical path. Best guess is production in a couple of months."



On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 12:23 PM, David F. Reed  wrote:

> Any idea when the KXBC3 battery charger for the KX3 might start shipping?
>
> Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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[Elecraft] Ordering a KX3

[Mike Herr]

Well, I did it. After watching the KX3 phenomenon, losing the weight I
promised myself and getting paid on some consulting work, I pulled the
trigger and ordered a KX3. Let the people rejoice!

-- 
Mike Herr
WA6ARA
DM-15dp
Home of The QRP Ranch
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Jason Hissong]

Sell the 950 and use the proceeds to get all the additional options
for your K2 (or maybe a nice chunk of change to save for a K3).

Just don't expect to sell it to many on this list..  :-)

I am building my third K2 (I sold the previous ones to pay for other
things, not because of the radio) and will be eventually putting all
the extras in it.  It will become my main station rig.  My 756 will
then be used for 6 meters or eventually sold.

Someday a K3 will find its way into my shack but until then, the K2
will fill my needs just fine.

Congrats on your K2.

73,
Jason N8XE

On 6/21/12, Mike Bellow  wrote:
> Hi All
> I recently picked up a used K2 locally here that was out of
> alignment,had to wait for freq probe that I ordered from Elecraft which
> arrived very fast,after doing a alignment on the radio,and After I set
> it up,I was very happy to see it works very well.This is my first
> Elecraft radio and this one is a #01014 serial number one of the early
> ones I guess.Now the Sad Part..Today I was listening on 14060 as
> usual for qrp stations and heard a very very faint station calling CQ
> Qrp,if I were to tag a rst report on this one I would say 119 no s meter
> reading at all but I could copy it fine.For comparison I hooked my Brand
> New "2 months old" Yaesu Ft-950 and guess what??? Could not hear
> anything there but Staticno signal at all.$1400.00
> for this radioNow I'm Happy but very sad.
>
>
> W2TI/QRP
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Re: [Elecraft] Meaning of EQ bands?

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> The existing K3 manual seems quite misleading in talking about 8
> "bands" of audio equalization. We now learn that the EQ facility
> allows the user to set the relative levels at 8 discrete frequency
> POINTS, and that the rest of the frequency response is interpolated
> by "joining up the dots".
>
> That gives quite a different shape to the frequency response than
> many will have imagined.

How so?  That's the way "graphic" equalizers - whether they are
octave or fractional octave - have operated for years.

73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 6/21/2012 6:51 PM, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
> Thank you for the clarification, Lyle.  I hadn't seen that information
> anywhere before.
>
> The existing K3 manual seems quite misleading in talking about 8 "bands"
> of audio equalization. We now learn that the EQ facility allows the user
> to set the relative levels at 8 discrete frequency POINTS, and that the
> rest of the frequency response is interpolated by "joining up the dots".
>
> That gives quite a different shape to the frequency response than many
> will have imagined.
>
>
>>> How exactly are the EQ bands implemented in DSP, in terms of frequency
>>> response?
>
>> In the KX3, the gain of the FIR filter at the specified frequency is
>> set to the requested value, and a linear interpolation is performed
>>from the next lower specified frequency.  At the highest frequency,
>> sertting, all frequencies higher are set to the requested value.
>>
>> The K3 operates in a similar fashion.
>>
>> These are inputs to the FIR coefficient generator along with
>> center/width/lo cut/hi cut and manual notch to create the FIR filter.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Lyle KK7P
>>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Keith Heimbold]

I would debate the comment about the same price. I got my fully loaded used 
K3/100 for about $1500 less than what i would pay for a FT5000MP and then 
recently bought a second less than fully loaded K3/100 with the "savings" for 
Remoterig twin mode. I am sure the FT5000MP is a schweet top of the line rig 
and I may end up buying one down the road but for now I am stoked with the K3. 
I mean my two K3s.

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Jun 22, 2012, at 4:54 AM, "Fred Smith"  wrote:

> Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would be very
> pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully loaded K3 at
> about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has the 5000
> is on top but the K3 is still very close the 5000 has had many firmware
> updates that improved it from even the original test numbers that were
> published by QST and Sherwood. In fact Sherwood tested one of the 5000's
> that were on the way to CA for repair so really didn't get all the numbers.
> I have used a Yaesu VL-1000 amp for over 5 years a KW on 6-160m full auto
> band switching and never a problem of any kind.
> 
> I enjoy the Elecraft line very much and they make wonderful equipment that
> few cam matches and I'm looking forward to getting my loaded K2/100 on line
> soon. I'm now looking at an Elecraft Power/SWR meter to match my tuner I
> also like things to match but can use the K2 for an exciter for the Quarda
> if needed. But I really wanted it mostly for a QRP rig and use the 100w for
> Field Day maybe.
> 
> 73,
> Fred/N0AZZ
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Yahoo!
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 4:29 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad
> 
> I just purchased a late model K2 because a couple friends of mine was
> bragging how super a receiver the K2 had and after 2 weeks of using my K2 I
> have found the same thing you have I have been running aYaesu FT 920 for 15
> years it my main 6 meter radio I worked 112 countries with here in the
> midwest can't wait to get a transverter on the K2 to see just how well it
> going to hear on the vhf/uhf bands with transverters.  Good things come in
> small packages and not a super prices either.  Was about to buy a new FTdx
> 5000 really big buck now I thinking more along the lines of a K3 complete
> station.  All made in the good old USA!
> 73, Bill, W0WFH
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2437/5084 - Release Date: 06/21/12
> 
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[Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause

[Curt]

My K1 has developed a glitch.  Sometimes, while tuning, the displayed 
frequency will suddenly jump down about 10-15 kHz, then return to the 
correct frequency.  I hear some static in the headphones at the same time. 
The jump isn't caused by tapping the case, only moving the tuning knob.  It 
doesn't seem related to a specific "spot" on the pot.  Without rotating the 
tuning pot, there is no frequency instability at all.

Ideas?  Curt KB5JO 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

[hawley, charles j jr]

I use a Rigrunner 4010S power strip with Anderson Powerpole sockets. With the 
K3 plugged into the master slot, when the K3 is turned on the rest of the strip 
turns on. That way any accessories including the P3 come on with it. Good for 
any future accessories without issue as to supply current from that K3 source.

Chuck, KE9UW
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on 
behalf of Dennis L. Haarsager [haarsa...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 1:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

I just received the P3SVGA option for my P3 and see that it either needs a
separate 12VDC source with >= 700 mA current or installation of an included
current modification that raises the K3's 12VDC OUT capacity to 1 A.
Frankly, component level work on the K3 scares me, since neither my eyes
nor hands are as good as they once were and the last kit I built was an
HW-100 44 years ago.  I do have an ESD-safe soldering station and can
easily acquire some de-soldering tools, but can anyone who's done this can
give me some level of comfort that it's possible?  If it's risky, I'll dust
off an old 12V supply.

By the way, the $400 I spent on the HW-100 Heathkit by the CPI is the
equivalent of $2,590 in 2011 , a
bit more than the cost of an assembled K3/100 today!

Dennis, N7DH
Hillsboro, VA
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Fred Smith]

Bill having owned the FTDX-5000MP for over 2 yrs I'm sure you would be very
pleased with it and have quite a few more options than a fully loaded K3 at
about the same price and 6m is a dream on it. Performance wise has the 5000
is on top but the K3 is still very close the 5000 has had many firmware
updates that improved it from even the original test numbers that were
published by QST and Sherwood. In fact Sherwood tested one of the 5000's
that were on the way to CA for repair so really didn't get all the numbers.
I have used a Yaesu VL-1000 amp for over 5 years a KW on 6-160m full auto
band switching and never a problem of any kind.

I enjoy the Elecraft line very much and they make wonderful equipment that
few cam matches and I'm looking forward to getting my loaded K2/100 on line
soon. I'm now looking at an Elecraft Power/SWR meter to match my tuner I
also like things to match but can use the K2 for an exciter for the Quarda
if needed. But I really wanted it mostly for a QRP rig and use the 100w for
Field Day maybe.

73,
Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Yahoo!
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 4:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

I just purchased a late model K2 because a couple friends of mine was
bragging how super a receiver the K2 had and after 2 weeks of using my K2 I
have found the same thing you have I have been running aYaesu FT 920 for 15
years it my main 6 meter radio I worked 112 countries with here in the
midwest can't wait to get a transverter on the K2 to see just how well it
going to hear on the vhf/uhf bands with transverters.  Good things come in
small packages and not a super prices either.  Was about to buy a new FTdx
5000 really big buck now I thinking more along the lines of a K3 complete
station.  All made in the good old USA!
73, Bill, W0WFH
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2437/5084 - Release Date: 06/21/12

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Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna

[Don Wilhelm]

RC,

The receiver is muted during transmit - that has nothing to do with a 
receive antenna.
I don't know how to mute an antenna, but it is certainly not disconnected.

Locate your RX antenna away from the transmit antennas, and if you hear 
the COR being activated (relay clicking noise) take action to reduce the 
RF energy coming in on the RX antenna.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/21/2012 10:22 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:
>   when you have a receive antenna hooked up and you go into transmit, is the
> RX antenna port is MUTED, or is disconnected.
>

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[Elecraft] FS: PR-40, SM-2, PL2

[Roy Morris]

Sale pending.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about autotuner in K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

The stated power rating of the KAT2 is 20 watts if I recall correctly.
But it really does not matter, you will need to KAT100 with an OCF 
antenna.  There is no way to use the KPA100 and the KAT2 together. If 
you mount the KPA100 and KAT100-2 in an external EC2 enclosure, the KAT2 
will be bypassed.  OTOH, if you mount the KPA100 on the base K2, the 
KAT2 will be removed along with the low power top cover.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/21/2012 8:02 AM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
> I'm waiting for a KAT100 amp to be delivered for my K2. For now I'm using a 
> 40m end fed LNR antenna so bypassing the ATU at 100W should be no problem, 
> but I plan to hang a new Buckmaster OCF 7 band antenna, and can't seem to 
> locate the power limits of the internal K2 ATU. Do I have to get an external 
> 100w tuner for the KAT100?
>

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Re: [Elecraft] receive antenna

[Monty Shultes]

RC,

No muting or disconnecting.

Monty K2DLJ

On Jun 21, 2012, at 10:22 AM, Robert 'RC' Conley wrote:

> when you have a receive antenna hooked up and you go into transmit, is the
> RX antenna port is MUTED, or is disconnected.
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Yahoo!]

I just purchased a late model K2 because a couple friends of mine was bragging 
how super a receiver the K2 had and after 2 weeks of using my K2 I have found 
the same thing you have I have been running aYaesu FT 920 for 15 years it my 
main 6 meter radio I worked 112 countries with here in the midwest can't wait 
to get a transverter on the K2 to see just how well it going to hear on the 
vhf/uhf bands with transverters.  Good things come in small
packages and not a super prices either.  Was about to buy a new FTdx 5000 
really big buck now I thinking more along the lines of a K3 complete station.  
All made in the good old USA!
73, Bill, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] test post

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Hello Bill,

You are not alone, no posts received here either yesterday June 21st.  Based 
on past experience I do not believe that Elecraft is to blame.

I posted a message to the Elecraft List yesterday at 19:13 Luxembourg time, 
and it did not appear until 09:28 today, along with several other posts sent 
earlier by other people.

73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On Friday, June 22, 2012 at 4:09 AM, "Yahoo!"  wrote:


> Sorry for this post but I have not receivered any e mails (posts)
> today and I have been getting a dozen
> or more every day
> Bill W0WFH
> w0...@yahoo.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

[Fred Townsend]

Dennis I just finished doing that mod this morning getting ready for field
day. I'd like to tell you was easy but it's not. I'm a professional so I
have all the tools. It took me about three hours. I could have done it a lot
faster but I was extra careful not to drop hardware or leave soldering
debris. The problem is the board is designed for machine assembly and
soldering using a paste. The holes are small and almost padless. It took
several squirts of flux and two soldering irons to get the holes clean and
then the choke barely fit. It's a long way from your hot water 100. You have
cause for concern.
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis L. Haarsager
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 12VDC OUT current modification

I just received the P3SVGA option for my P3 and see that it either needs a
separate 12VDC source with >= 700 mA current or installation of an included
current modification that raises the K3's 12VDC OUT capacity to 1 A.
Frankly, component level work on the K3 scares me, since neither my eyes nor
hands are as good as they once were and the last kit I built was an
HW-100 44 years ago.  I do have an ESD-safe soldering station and can easily
acquire some de-soldering tools, but can anyone who's done this can give me
some level of comfort that it's possible?  If it's risky, I'll dust off an
old 12V supply.

By the way, the $400 I spent on the HW-100 Heathkit by the CPI is the
equivalent of $2,590 in 2011 , a
bit more than the cost of an assembled K3/100 today!

Dennis, N7DH
Hillsboro, VA
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Re: [Elecraft] KXBC3 ?

[Matt Maguire]

I understand it's a couple of months away.


On 22/06/2012, at 2:23 AM, "David F. Reed"  wrote:

> Any idea when the KXBC3 battery charger for the KX3 might start shipping?
> 
> Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] test post

[John Lemay]

The reflector is receiving and sending out your mail just fine

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Yahoo!
Sent: 22 June 2012 03:10
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] test post

Sorry for this post but I have not receivered any e mails (posts)
today and I have been getting a dozen
or more every day
Bill W0WFH
w0...@yahoo.com
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__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 7239 (20120621) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com






__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 7239 (20120621) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com


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[Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad

[Mike Bellow]

Hi All
I recently picked up a used K2 locally here that was out of 
alignment,had to wait for freq probe that I ordered from Elecraft which 
arrived very fast,after doing a alignment on the radio,and After I set 
it up,I was very happy to see it works very well.This is my first 
Elecraft radio and this one is a #01014 serial number one of the early 
ones I guess.Now the Sad Part..Today I was listening on 14060 as 
usual for qrp stations and heard a very very faint station calling CQ 
Qrp,if I were to tag a rst report on this one I would say 119 no s meter 
reading at all but I could copy it fine.For comparison I hooked my Brand 
New "2 months old" Yaesu Ft-950 and guess what??? Could not hear 
anything there but Staticno signal at all.$1400.00 
for this radioNow I'm Happy but very sad.


W2TI/QRP
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[Elecraft] Question about autotuner in K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm waiting for a KAT100 amp to be delivered for my K2. For now I'm using a 40m 
end fed LNR antenna so bypassing the ATU at 100W should be no problem, but I 
plan to hang a new Buckmaster OCF 7 band antenna, and can't seem to locate the 
power limits of the internal K2 ATU. Do I have to get an external 100w tuner 
for the KAT100?


---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Neil,

Were you able to see if the shortened fan dipole used by the county ERC has
the feeder connected to all three elements, as would be the case with a
typical fan dipole?

If the feeder is connected *only* to the mid-point of the longest element,
and the two shorter elements are unbroken lengths of wire running parallel
to the longest wire, then this antenna would belong to the family of
multiband antennas known as "Coupled Resonators".  It would be tricky though
to use linear loading with these antennas.

73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On Monday, June 18, 2012 at 5:26 AM, Niel Skousen wrote:

> I'm pretty sure I've seen this antenna on the net, but don't recall the 
> name nor have I been able to find a link to a description / design data.

> The county ERC has a 'shortened fan dipole' with three parallel elements, 
> spaced about 18-24" apart on each side.   the longest element folds back 
> around the mid-> > length element toward the shortest element.   The 
> antenna end insulator / guy rope is attached to the long element, where it 
> folds back.   There appears (from the
> ground) to be a 6~8" insulator / gap between the end of the shortest 
> element, and the longest element where its been folded back.  no traps, 
> loading coils, or loading
> resistors that I can see.

> I'm assuming three or four band coverage (80, 40, 20, and 15 ??) with a 
> 75m dipole, a 40m dipole (with 15m as a freebie), and a 20 m dipole.   but 
> would be
> interested in more technical details if anyone can decipher my text 
> description above…



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[Elecraft] K3 - Using the MC60A microphone

[Bill]

I have been using the Heil built Elecraft OEM hand mic for my K3 since I 
built the rig. It is a good mic and garnered many unsolicitated positive 
audio reports. However, I longed for a PTT desk mic - as I had back in 
the 70s and 80s with my Kenwoods (MC50 days).

So I ordered an MC60A and today received it. Life is so simple with the 
K3 - it took me much longer to type the below than it did to actually do 
it:

I changed to Mic Sel FP.H, the Comp remained at 20, and the Mic gain to 
35 - my TxEq is 0  0  0  0  0  +3  +8  +6 (which is the setting I used 
for the hand mic). I placed the batteries in the MC60A and turned on the 
mic's pre-amp. No changes were made to any wiring as I am not using the 
K3's bias supply and the MC60A's pin 6 is not connected to anything. I 
As a bonus, the Up-Down tune buttons on the desk mic work great. After 
the MIC and CMP settings were made, I locked them - avoiding bumping 
them and messing things up later (CONFIG: PWR SET and press 1).

I am getting great audio reports - all from folks whom know what I am 
supposed to sound like. No science of audiology was used in determining 
my EQ settings - I merely use what sounds good.

Life is good - enjoy it!

Bill W2BLC
-- 
IN GOD I TRUST (but, NOT a single politician)
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Re: [Elecraft] 12 July 2012 NIGHT OF NIGHTS XIII - SAVE THE DATE

[Fred Jensen]

On 6/20/2012 8:20 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> For those of you who have not visited their web site recently, there are a
> series of cool 360-degree panoramic views of the facility at:
>
> http://www.radiomarine.org/gallery/show?keyword=kphpano&panel=pab1_1#pab1_1

Cool!  Still a little puzzled about how he does this.  KPH is a lot 
bigger than I thought.  Sadly, no people in the photos would have loved 
to see Steve again.  I REALLY need to get over there for a visit.

I was glad to see what I think was a leftie straight key.  Everything at 
my positions was screwed down by a right-hander.  Discrimination at its 
worst. :-)

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] KXBC3 ?

[David F. Reed]

Any idea when the KXBC3 battery charger for the KX3 might start shipping?

Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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[Elecraft] P3 TX monitoring

[Gary Gregory]

*I know it does not do this, however, I noticed today that it started to
monitor transmitted audio for two overs.

The interesting thing is I had not touched any cables, not turned the K3/P3
off nor did I do anything before, during or after the appearance of
transmitted audio. I have previously done the test with the cable
disconnected and seen the audio out for a single over.

I also noticed it appeared to be very accurate.

Anyone else seen this?

It has not done this since...dang!

Gary
*
-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679,P3 #1629, KPA-500 #018 KAT-500#??
Living the dream!!!
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[Elecraft] test post

[Yahoo!]

Sorry for this post but I have not receivered any e mails (posts)
today and I have been getting a dozen
or more every day
Bill W0WFH
w0...@yahoo.com
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