Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[K7MDL]

I used mine at home and more often on mountain tops during VHF+ contests as a
rover.  I am often in line of sight to other high power rovers and the KW
stations in the valleys below.  I used a K2 with my transverters.  After a
number of previous rover setups that did not do well, I found this combo
worked well.  I had no more adjacent bleed issues, and stability was quite
acceptable.  I have since swapped the K2 for the K3 "just because" :-) . 

I have not had the K3 combo out on a mountain top yet.  I have done
extensive A/B swapping at the home station between the XV144 and K144XV and
show no discernable difference in performance except some noise/spur pickup
and lower output power in the K144XV (no surprise).  That is offset by
having the 4Mhz band coverage making FM possible.  I like that since I an
pickup Simplex QSOs and do some occasional repeater or satellite work and
use the same antennas, no extra switching or rotators required.





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Jim Brown]

On 9/15/2012 10:43 PM, Vic Goncharsky wrote:
> What I am personally looking for is information about on the air performance 
> of 144 and 432 Elecraft transverters in strong signal environments like 
> VHF/UHF contests in dense areas with multi-kilowatt  folks occupying mountain 
> tops all around.

I recall such a review in QST something like 4-5 years ago. Obviously it 
applies to the outboard unit, and I think I recall it being the 2M 
version.  Check the ARRL product review archives. Members can download 
the pdf.  I do remember that it was tested in a contesting environment 
(east coast, maybe New England or the mountains around DC) with a lot of 
strong signals, and that it was a very positive review.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 DOS Program

[Richard Fjeld]

It warms my heart to see that someone still uses DOS.

Rich, n0ce

- Original Message - 
From: "Ray Sills" 
To: "Elecraft email list" 
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 DOS Program


> Hi John:
> 
> I tried to email you direct, but your address bounces.  If you email  
> me direct with a valid address, I can forward a simple DOS terminal app.
> 
> 73 de Ray
> K2ULR
> 
> On Sep 15, 2012, at 10:55 AM, K7JLTextra wrote:
> 
>> I need a DOS communication program for my HP-100 that works with a  
>> KX3. Any ideas?
>>
>> John Hendricks
>> Sent from my iPod
>> __
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] kX3 and L ion battery

[Hjalmar Duklæt]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Vic Goncharsky]

What I am personally looking for is information about on the air performance of 
144 and 432 Elecraft transverters in strong signal environments like VHF/UHF 
contests in dense areas with multi-kilowatt  folks occupying mountain tops all 
around.

I planned to make K144XV test during the last IARU R1 VHF championship but due 
to the lack of upgraded KXV3A board this did not happen (my fault). On the 
other hand Kuhne "TR 144 H+40" and Elecraft K3 pair allowed to "forget" about 
front-end overload. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUCECQmgrj0&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JL9GF1rBVo&feature=relmfu
VHF contesters opinions are welcomed.

73 Vic US5WE/K1WE (UW5W in VHF contests) KN29AU
UARL VHF committee
Chairman, UARL Lvov Branch "LKK"
Moderator, UARL VHF portal http://www.vhfdx.at.ua
DXCC card checker in Ukraine



 From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters
 
 ... My K144XV is perfectly well behaved... 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

Stay well,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS
-
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[Elecraft] For Sale: 200-Watt HF Sensor (Directional Coupler) for W2 SWR/Wattmeter

[David Inger]

I recently purchased an unused W2 that came with several sensors.   I have
for sale the 200-w version that cover 1.8 through 54MHz.  It is unused and
includes the 6-ft. sensor cable.  $60.00 including shipping to any US ZIP
code.  Please contact me off list at ingerassocia...@cox.net. 

 

Tnx es 73 de K6SBA

David in Santa Barbara, CA

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Re: [Elecraft] Question about suspending a delta loop...

[Rick McClelland, AA5S]

That sounds encouraging.  I use good quality wire and it seems quite
strong, I may just give a try with a single ballast and see if the antenna
survives the winter.  I also do the same as you, I use long lines and avoid
climbing trees.  I have yet to hear about vandalism in my area but I was a
kid once and I know how kids think, so I wouldn't want to encourage bad
behavior.  Thanks for your comment.

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 9:04 PM, Chuck N4XS  wrote:

> I'm not what you'd call sage, but I have an 80m horizontal loop and don't
> bother with suspended weights.  I figure there is enough stretch in my
> support ropes to handle any normal winds, and a major storm is probably
> going to break some tree limbs anyway. So much can happen to tree-supported
> antennas in big storms that spending too much effort on a support system
> just doesn't appeal to me. I'd rather prepare for a quick replacement
> should
> the need arise. My support ropes run from the corner insulators over the
> tree tops and down to points near the ground where I tie them off. I do NOT
> climb trees, so I don't have the option of tying them off higher up. (I use
> a bow and arrow to launch fishing line over a high limb, then use it to
> pull
> nylon twine over, and then use it to pull my support rope over. Quick and
> easy.) I don't have a problem with vandalism where I live, and the antenna
> stays up for a long time.
>
> Chuck N4XS
>
>
>


-- 
Rick McClelland, AA5S
Fort Collins, CO
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[Elecraft] NH8S

[Howard Hoyt]

Hi all,

Today I set up my Buddipole at 10 ft. height tuned to 15 meters, hooked 
my KX3 to it at 10W and called the Swain Is. DXpedition NH8S and was 
rewarded with a QSO.  I have been a ham since 1970 and this was some 
serious fun, ranking right up there!  I cannot thank Wayne, Eric and 
crew enough for the expertise and high standards they brought to bear on 
the design of this rig.

WOW.

Howie - WA4PSC
CE - WXYC-FM 89.3
UNC Chapel Hill, NC
www.wxyc.org
1st on the internet
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about suspending a delta loop...

[Chuck N4XS]

I'm not what you'd call sage, but I have an 80m horizontal loop and don't
bother with suspended weights.  I figure there is enough stretch in my
support ropes to handle any normal winds, and a major storm is probably
going to break some tree limbs anyway. So much can happen to tree-supported
antennas in big storms that spending too much effort on a support system
just doesn't appeal to me. I'd rather prepare for a quick replacement should
the need arise. My support ropes run from the corner insulators over the
tree tops and down to points near the ground where I tie them off. I do NOT
climb trees, so I don't have the option of tying them off higher up. (I use
a bow and arrow to launch fishing line over a high limb, then use it to pull
nylon twine over, and then use it to pull my support rope over. Quick and
easy.) I don't have a problem with vandalism where I live, and the antenna
stays up for a long time.

Chuck N4XS


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[Elecraft] Question about suspending a delta loop...

[Rick McClelland, AA5S]

I have a 240' delta loop suspended at three points about my QTH.  I've been
pondering adding another 47' but this is quite a challenge given the
dimensions of my suburban lot. One thing I'm considering is to make good
use of two trees located in a common area outside my property lines. Easily
said, but I would not want to hang a 5 kg line ballast at either of these
points because I can imagine a couple of neighborhood youths scaling a tree
with one of them cutting a line causing the 5kg weight to crash down upon
the tender skull of the other youth.

Legal matters notwithstanding, my question is whether I'm inviting certain
mechanical failure if I fix the two endpoints outside my property lines and
make use of only a single 5 kg ballast on the tree located within my
property lines. The advantage of doing this is obvious, if any of the
supporting lines outside my property are cut, the antenna falls onto my
property and there is no possibility of injury to the purpetrators of the
dastardly deed.

As a possibly relevant aside, I don't use a typical insulator at each of
the three suspension points. I use a 4" flat acrylic insulator with two 6"
acrylic insulators attached to the end of the 4" insulator such that the
resulting insulating apparatus appears to be a rather large 8" tuning rod.
In my non-mechanical-engineering mind, I imagine that having the insulator
arranged in such a fashion reduces the peak tension at each apex of the
triangle and also allows the wire to move more freely through the insulator
without binding at that point.  I realize that this matter isn't related to
any Elecraft product but there are so many sage OMs here that I feel that
an answer will be quickly forthcoming and without controversy.

-- 
Rick McClelland, AA5S
Fort Collins, CO
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Re: [Elecraft] Getting ready to order a K2 - which options

[K1FFX]

If I were to do do a new K2 build again, I would definitely incorporate the
Rework Eliminator kit
in the initial build.  I added two options to the basic K2: (1) the KPA100,
which required (IMHO
anyway) an annoying dissasembly of the K2 to add two connectors to the main
board and (2)
the KSB2, which should have been an easy add on, but I had difficulty, even
using desoldering
braid, in removing main board jumpers.  So, if I had known about the Rework
Eliminator kit
and what was involved in adding options, I would have incorporated it in the
initial build, even
for just those two options.

But I agree that it probably wouldn't make sense to retrofit the kit into an
existing K2.

- Bruce




-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982 KSB2

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Swains Island 5 watts

[Jeff Herr]

I did it too last night on kx3 #1692






-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Townsend
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 18:51
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Swains Island 5 watts

Wow my 3rd contact with the KX3 at 5 watts into Swains Island...

Phil
Santa Fe, NM
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[Elecraft] KX3 Swains Island 5 watts

[Phil Townsend]

Wow my 3rd contact with the KX3 at 5 watts into Swains Island...

Phil
Santa Fe, NM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Build Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

Yes, do borrow from the RF board parts list.  The parts are the same, 
and the *real* part number is E580006 - E580010 does not appear in the 
"official" list of part numbers that I have.  Request a replacement 
2N4124 PN E580006 from pa...@elecraft.com.
Sorry for the confusion, and I am surprised that this inconsistency has 
not been identified before - it has been there for a long time..

Ron, if you have control of the K1 manual, the RF board part number 
should be changed.  If you do not have control, please pass this 
information along to whomever controls the document.

73,
Don w3FPR


On 9/15/2012 8:02 PM, Paul Steffensen wrote:
> I'm building a K1 and missing a transistor for the Front Panel Board. It's
> Q1 2N4124. There are two 2N4124 transistors on the RF Board, Q3 and Q14,
> which I am not missing. The normal order of building the K1 is to build the
> Front Panel Board followed by the RF Board. The Front panel board is needed
> for testing and alignment of the RF Board. Since I have the 2N4124
> transistors for the RF Board, can I borrow one of them so that I can
> complete the Front Panel Board? I can then use the second 2N4124 in the
> Part 1 build of the RF Board, and then test and align it. This will allow
> me to continue building this weekend. I'll wait for the replacement part
> for the second half of the RF Board construction.
>
> I would think this is okay, but the Elecraft part numbers are different.
> The Front Panel Board part number is E580006 and the RF Board part number
> is E580010. Does anyone know if these parts are the same?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul KB9ILT
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[Elecraft] QRP DXCC

[Joe K2UF]

Just worked Demark for my 100th country using 1 watt from my K3.   Now
Elecraft can send my new KAT500 anytime,  I'm ready to be heard a little
earlier in the pileups.  ;o)

 

With a little more respect for the QRPP folks

 

73  Joe K2UF

 

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[Jim Brown]

On 9/15/2012 5:01 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
> Just try one of the non-50-ohm cables and see if it works

Cable impedance absolutely does not matter for such a short run at the 
IF frequency.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] [K1] Build Question

[Paul Steffensen]

I'm building a K1 and missing a transistor for the Front Panel Board. It's
Q1 2N4124. There are two 2N4124 transistors on the RF Board, Q3 and Q14,
which I am not missing. The normal order of building the K1 is to build the
Front Panel Board followed by the RF Board. The Front panel board is needed
for testing and alignment of the RF Board. Since I have the 2N4124
transistors for the RF Board, can I borrow one of them so that I can
complete the Front Panel Board? I can then use the second 2N4124 in the
Part 1 build of the RF Board, and then test and align it. This will allow
me to continue building this weekend. I'll wait for the replacement part
for the second half of the RF Board construction.

I would think this is okay, but the Elecraft part numbers are different.
The Front Panel Board part number is E580006 and the RF Board part number
is E580010. Does anyone know if these parts are the same?

Thanks,
Paul KB9ILT
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[Vic K2VCO]

Just try one of the non-50-ohm cables and see if it works. My guess is that it 
will, but 
nothing will explode if it doesn't!

On 9/15/2012 3:18 PM, Joel Black wrote:
> I purchased my P3 second-hand.  I have always wondered why the IF Out to
> IF In cable was so blasted short.  I mean, it's only about 12.5" long.
> With that length, my P3 sits on the left of my K3. That would be the
> handle side of the K3.  I never could understand why that was.  Well, I
> think I have figured it out - it's not the correct cable...  Okay,
> that's fine.
>
> I have some spare cables lying around and thought I'd give them a
> whirl.  Well, they're not 50ohm cables.  One is labeled "Tensolite Style
> 1354."  That is a 93ohm cable (I have no idea where I picked that up).
> The other is RG59.  I know that is 75ohm cable.  It came out of an old
> analog m/w shot from the RF shelf to the BB shelf.  In my thinking
> (which is wrong a lot of times), either should be okay. I just want my
> P3 on the right of the K3 to satisfy my OCDness...
>
> I know I'm asking for it, but what do y'all think?
>
> 73,
> Joel - W4JBB



-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] I/O output level

[F5LCI]

Yes, that is what I am using : audio cable and external speakers via the PC. I 
already have an I/Q home made cable 2.5/3.5 to the iMic, with transformers. The 
most difficult is the audio parameters setup, but I think they are good (no 
extra "enhancements" etc). Thank you for your advice and 72 FO/F5LCI 
Le Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:41:12 -, Thomas Horsten [via Elecraft] 
 a écrit: 

It would be easier to just hook up the KX3 to the PC with the Phones 
jack
to Line In on the PC. Then the KX3 has already demodulated it for you. If
you use DATA mode then it will be a raw USB or LSB chunk ready for use in
your favourite digimode program.
If you still want to listen to the KX3, use a splitter and an external
speaker and/or headphones.
By the way, the KX3-PCKT cable kit from Elecraft has all the cables you'll
need for either of these options, and is very reasonably priced (DX
shipping is only $10 but you have to ask them to use USPS 1st Class).
73, Thomas M0TRN
On 15 September 2012 22:25, [hidden email]  < [hidden email] > wrote:
> Thanks for the fast reply, OM.
>
> There are so many programs...
> I know SDR#, HDSDR ...Etc.
> I would like to use NaP3 (I've just written to the author)and get a
> demodulated signal through my OS (W7) for use with JT65 and Ftdi.
> Regards,
> FO/F5LCI BH91nv
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

[Phillip Shepard]

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (9/16/12) at 1800Z on 14.3035
MHz +/- QRM. I will be the net control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The seller either substituted a different cable or cut the original. 

The original cable is 36" (92 cm) long. If you want to buy an original
cable, order E980170 from parts at elecraft.com. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Joel,

You asking for nothing more than the standard cable.

I recall (don't have a P3 myself) that the "stock Elecraft cable" allows the
P3 to be positioned on either side of the K3.
I would suggest that you either make up your own custom length cable or
purchase the replacement part from Elecraft.
If you cannot find the part number in the P3 documentation, then perhaps
Richard T. (pa...@elecraft.com) can help, but if not, then either Alan Bloom
or Paul Saffron will be able to assist you.  There is always help available
from Elecraft.  If not from the customer support guys, then from the
original designers - they are quite approachable and responsive
- but some of them do not work on weekends - so be patient until Tuesday
(Mondays have a flood of email to sort through).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 6:18 PM, Joel Black wrote:
> I purchased my P3 second-hand.  I have always wondered why the IF Out 
> to IF In cable was so blasted short.  I mean, it's only about 12.5" long.
> With that length, my P3 sits on the left of my K3. That would be the 
> handle side of the K3.  I never could understand why that was.  Well, 
> I think I have figured it out - it's not the correct cable...  Okay, 
> that's fine.
>
> I have some spare cables lying around and thought I'd give them a 
> whirl.  Well, they're not 50ohm cables.  One is labeled "Tensolite 
> Style 1354."  That is a 93ohm cable (I have no idea where I picked that
up).
> The other is RG59.  I know that is 75ohm cable.  It came out of an old 
> analog m/w shot from the RF shelf to the BB shelf.  In my thinking 
> (which is wrong a lot of times), either should be okay. I just want my
> P3 on the right of the K3 to satisfy my OCDness...
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It's my understanding that the oscillation problem was solved long ago by
(IIRC) a change in the K144XV pc board ground scheme. My K144XV is perfectly
well behaved and I've not seen any queries to the support reflector about
oscillation in many months. John, it might be worth a follow up with
Elecraft support if you still want to use the internal transverter. Their
philosophy is that it's not right until it is right, Hi!

Three points to consider when deciding which transverter to use: 

1) The internal transverter is limited to 10 watts, while the outboard
transverters will handle 20 watts PEP/CW.

2) The frequency stability of the external transverter is that of the xtal
oscillator in the unit (a TCXO is available as an option) while the
frequency stability of the internal transverter can be slaved to the K3's
master reference oscillator with the K144RFLK option. For even greater
stability, the K3's master reference oscillator can be slaved to an external
10 MHz frequency standard such as a GPS clock signal using the K3EXREF
option.

3) The internal transverter is 2 meters only. He'll still want a separate
box for 70 cm. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

1. The inboard transverter for 2 meters could never be made to
function...the unit oscillated with great abandon, despite the best advices
of Elecraft. If you look back through the archives, you will find several
reports, including one from VK, reportiong this behavior. 
The K3 works flawlessly with the external units, which I built from kits.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

==

On 9/15/2012 10:05 AM, Gary Gregory wrote:
> *Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any 
> comments plus or minus as to performance.
>
> I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be 
> adding these transverters.
>
> His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.
>
> I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to 
> lack of experience in the higher bands.
>
> Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
> QRM.:-)
>
> 73
> *

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 I/Q Sidetone with NaP3

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

While what you say is the way it operates, NaP3 should indicate the 
carrier at the same frequency as the KX3 display.

I have not yet used NaP3 with the KX3, but it is correct for the K3.  So 
maybe there should be an update (and additional transceiver selection) 
for the KX3.  I have not seen posts from Pete in several weeks, so I 
don't know the support status of NaP3.

There are others - TRX-Pan, PowerSDR-IF, HPSDR as starters for the 
list.  Maybe one of those do it better for the KX3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 6:24 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:
> It's option 3 :-)
>
> When you select CW mode, the KX3 will not set the frequency of its local 
> oscillator to be the same as what it displays on the screen, but will offset 
> it by an amount corresponding to your preferred sidetone pitch (eg. 600Hz). 
> This way, when a CW signal at the frequency shown on the display is mixed 
> with the local oscillator, you get a 600Hz tone.
>
> On transmit, the KX3 will generate a signal equal to the frequency shown on 
> the display.
>
> So, in order to "zero beat" a signal, you tune the incoming signal so that it 
> has the same pitch as your sidetone. On the waterfall, the signal will be 
> offset from centre by the pitch of your sidetone.
>
> 73, Matt VK2ACL
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[Don Wilhelm]

Joel,

You asking for nothing more than the standard cable.

I recall (don't have a P3 myself) that the "stock Elecraft cable" allows 
the P3 to be positioned on either side of the K3.
I would suggest that you either make up your own custom length cable or 
purchase the replacement part from Elecraft.
If you cannot find the part number in the P3 documentation, then perhaps 
Richard T. (pa...@elecraft.com) can help, but if not, then either Alan 
Bloom or Paul Saffron will be able to assist you.  There is always help 
available from Elecraft.  If not from the customer support guys, then 
from the original designers - they are quite approachable and responsive 
- but some of them do not work on weekends - so be patient until Tuesday 
(Mondays have a flood of email to sort through).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 6:18 PM, Joel Black wrote:
> I purchased my P3 second-hand.  I have always wondered why the IF Out to
> IF In cable was so blasted short.  I mean, it's only about 12.5" long.
> With that length, my P3 sits on the left of my K3. That would be the
> handle side of the K3.  I never could understand why that was.  Well, I
> think I have figured it out - it's not the correct cable...  Okay,
> that's fine.
>
> I have some spare cables lying around and thought I'd give them a
> whirl.  Well, they're not 50ohm cables.  One is labeled "Tensolite Style
> 1354."  That is a 93ohm cable (I have no idea where I picked that up).
> The other is RG59.  I know that is 75ohm cable.  It came out of an old
> analog m/w shot from the RF shelf to the BB shelf.  In my thinking
> (which is wrong a lot of times), either should be okay. I just want my
> P3 on the right of the K3 to satisfy my OCDness...
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 I/Q Sidetone with NaP3

[Matt Maguire]

It's option 3 :-)

When you select CW mode, the KX3 will not set the frequency of its local 
oscillator to be the same as what it displays on the screen, but will offset it 
by an amount corresponding to your preferred sidetone pitch (eg. 600Hz). This 
way, when a CW signal at the frequency shown on the display is mixed with the 
local oscillator, you get a 600Hz tone.

On transmit, the KX3 will generate a signal equal to the frequency shown on the 
display.

So, in order to "zero beat" a signal, you tune the incoming signal so that it 
has the same pitch as your sidetone. On the waterfall, the signal will be 
offset from centre by the pitch of your sidetone.

73, Matt VK2ACL

On 16/09/2012, at 4:26 AM, Jim - W6VAR  wrote:

> I've noticed that the CW sidetone always comes in above the VFO frequency or
> the VFO +- the CW pitch by the amount of the pitch.
> 
> For instance, if the VFO is set to 7.040.000 and the pitch is set to 600 on
> the KX3 and in the Options tab of NaP3, the sidetone shows in the waterfall
> at 7.040.600. If I adjust the pitch in NaP3 up say, 2K, the grey bar
> indicating where NaP3 is tuned moves up 2K, but the sidetone now shows at
> 7.042.600 and is not in the NaP3 audio.
> 
> I've tried setting to auto as well, but it appears no different.
> 
> Does anyone know if:
> 1. This is a NaP3 bug
> 2. The KX3 is injecting the sidetone into the I/Q off frequency by the pitch
> 3. The "unthinkable", I'm thinking about his all wrong and this is precisely
> the way it is supposed to be :)
> 
> Tnx,
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-I-Q-Sidetone-with-NaP3-tp7562769.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [K3] [P3] IF Out / IF In Cable

[Joel Black]

I purchased my P3 second-hand.  I have always wondered why the IF Out to 
IF In cable was so blasted short.  I mean, it's only about 12.5" long.  
With that length, my P3 sits on the left of my K3. That would be the 
handle side of the K3.  I never could understand why that was.  Well, I 
think I have figured it out - it's not the correct cable...  Okay, 
that's fine.

I have some spare cables lying around and thought I'd give them a 
whirl.  Well, they're not 50ohm cables.  One is labeled "Tensolite Style 
1354."  That is a 93ohm cable (I have no idea where I picked that up).  
The other is RG59.  I know that is 75ohm cable.  It came out of an old 
analog m/w shot from the RF shelf to the BB shelf.  In my thinking 
(which is wrong a lot of times), either should be okay. I just want my 
P3 on the right of the K3 to satisfy my OCDness...

I know I'm asking for it, but what do y'all think?

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Internal 2m module

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Kjeld, you might consider the K144RFLK option too. That locks the K144XV's
internal oscillator to the K3's master reference oscillator for enhanced
frequency stability. Without it, the stability of your 2-meter rx and tx
signals is that of a normal crystal oscillator. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kjeld Holm
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 2:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Internal 2m module

Dear Elecrafter,

 

Now I am ready to order the internal 2m module for my K3 with subreceiver. I
have the FM filter and the KXV3A plus KTCXO3-1  TCXO  (0.5 ppm typ) High
Stability Ref. Osc.

 

Anything else I should order in relation to this?

 

Best regards

OZ1CCM Kjeld

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Re: [Elecraft] I/O output level

[Thomas Horsten]

It would be easier to just hook up the KX3 to the PC with the Phones jack
to Line In on the PC. Then the KX3 has already demodulated it for you. If
you use DATA mode then it will be a raw USB or LSB chunk ready for use in
your favourite digimode program.

If you still want to listen to the KX3, use a splitter and an external
speaker and/or headphones.

By the way, the KX3-PCKT cable kit from Elecraft has all the cables you'll
need for either of these options, and is very reasonably priced (DX
shipping is only $10 but you have to ask them to use USPS 1st Class).

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 15 September 2012 22:25, jmb-f5...@orange.fr  wrote:

> Thanks for the fast reply, OM.
>
> There are so many programs...
> I know SDR#, HDSDR ...Etc.
> I would like to use NaP3 (I've just written to the author)and get a
> demodulated signal through my OS (W7) for use with JT65 and Ftdi.
> Regards,
> FO/F5LCI BH91nv
>
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Re: [Elecraft] I/O output level

[jmb-f5...@orange.fr]

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Re: [Elecraft] I/O output level

[Thomas Horsten]

Most SDR software will demodulate most modes from an I/Q signal. Try maybe
SDR# (http://sdrsharp.com/) or PowerSDR.

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 15 September 2012 21:23, F5LCI  wrote:

> OK, it is the IF...
> But is there a software mean to re-assemble or compute this I/Q signal so
> it
> can be treated as audio ?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Power Supply

[Josh Lehan]

I got a lucky find: searched some old laptop computer power supplies in the 
bins at Halted Electronics, a surplus store, and found a 15V power supply that 
was a good match.  Anything from 12V to 15V should work.  It is very small and 
fits in well with the KX3.

Josh
KJ6PVN

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 14, 2012, at 17:40, TG9AJR  wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I will like to get a small footprint power supply for my KX3 when in fix 
> operation.
> 
> Any suggestions ?
> 
> Thank you, 73 DX de
> 
> Juan
> TG9AJR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] I/O output level

[F5LCI]

OK, it is the IF...
But is there a software mean to re-assemble or compute this I/Q signal so it
can be treated as audio ?





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[John Ragle]

On 9/15/2012 6:05 PM, Sebastian, W4AS wrote (regarding drift problems 
with XV144 and XV432 transverters):
>  To minimize frequency drift, the manual suggests to always have the 
> local oscillator powered, easily accomplished by changing a jumper inside; 
> note that requires 12 volts to always be present. 

Since the local oscillator oven draws only minimal current, and since 
the units draw very little total current in receive mode, it seems 
logical to do as the manuals suggest and leave the units powered during 
periods of potential use. Under these circumstances I have had no 
problem with drift. I should mention that my XV144 is stacked on my 
XV432 with 1" aluminum bar stock used for spacing, and there is no 
cooling fan.

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 DOS Program

[Ray Sills]

Hi John:

I tried to email you direct, but your address bounces.  If you email  
me direct with a valid address, I can forward a simple DOS terminal app.

73 de Ray
K2ULR

On Sep 15, 2012, at 10:55 AM, K7JLTextra wrote:

> I need a DOS communication program for my HP-100 that works with a  
> KX3. Any ideas?
>
> John Hendricks
> Sent from my iPod
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[K7MDL]

For daisy chaining I use BNC to SMA adapters with SMA Tee connectors mounted. 
Then I made up custom cables with quality coax (RG316) cut to the perfect
sizes to stack the transverters.  I have also used 2 pieces of aluminum
angle stock as mounting ears to mount my XV stack into a box "rack".  Using
RG316 everywhere and custom lengths, it comes out very tidy and well
sheilded.   

I use a 12VDC Sp4T SMA coax switch controlled by a slightly modified KRC2 to
route my K3/K144XV 2M RF/IF and PTT to antenna or the 902/1296 transverters. 
I have an extensive article written up with pictures and schematics on
request.   My website no longer exists.

- Mike, K7MDL



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[Elecraft] KX3 I/Q Sidetone with NaP3

[Jim - W6VAR]

I've noticed that the CW sidetone always comes in above the VFO frequency or
the VFO +- the CW pitch by the amount of the pitch.

For instance, if the VFO is set to 7.040.000 and the pitch is set to 600 on
the KX3 and in the Options tab of NaP3, the sidetone shows in the waterfall
at 7.040.600. If I adjust the pitch in NaP3 up say, 2K, the grey bar
indicating where NaP3 is tuned moves up 2K, but the sidetone now shows at
7.042.600 and is not in the NaP3 audio.

I've tried setting to auto as well, but it appears no different.

Does anyone know if:
1. This is a NaP3 bug
2. The KX3 is injecting the sidetone into the I/Q off frequency by the pitch
3. The "unthinkable", I'm thinking about his all wrong and this is precisely
the way it is supposed to be :)

Tnx,

Jim



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Sebastian, W4AS]

With a K3 I use the XV144, XV222 and XV432 external transverters.

At first I was very disappointed with their frequency drift.  It was difficult 
to stay on frequency from a cold start, and it would continue to drift the more 
I transmitted.

Installing the $100 TCXOs helped but didn't really solve the issue.  To 
minimize frequency drift, the manual suggests to always have the local 
oscillator powered, easily accomplished by changing a jumper inside; note that 
requires 12 volts to always be present.

I checked the voltage on the 25 amp power supply I was using (a bit overkill on 
the current, yet it was what I had that wasn't being used) and made sure that 
it didn't deviate over time or while transmitting.

Frequency stability is very important to me as I often run meteor scatter 
contacts which are quite dependent on accurate frequency control, and demands a 
key down time of 30 seconds on and 30 seconds off.

I thought that perhaps by placing one transverter on top of each other as I had 
done, wasn't helping the cooling, so I made a little cabinet which offers 
approximately 3 inches of separation on all sides from the trio.  Again, that 
didn't help very much.

Frankly I was ready to go back to a TS-2000 for VHF/UHF as I hadn't been able 
to solve the drift issue, and it was embarrassing to talk to the locals on 2 
meter SSB when I was drifting for the first few minutes.

Finally, the problem was solved rather easily.  After reading through similar 
stories from other hams, I found an old cooling fan for a 486 CPU processor 
which has almost the same dimensions as the small cooling holes on top of each 
transverter.  I applied double-sided tape to each corner of the fan, and placed 
it on top of the cooling holes.  As long as the little fan is on, the 
transverters will drift only a small amount, which is acceptable for the modes 
I use.

Note that my XV144 is the one I use the most often, and is setup to output only 
about 4 watts, which is enough to generate 50 watts from one amp (Mirage B108 
capable of 80 watts), which is enough to fully drive my 300 watt amp (Mirage 
B5030G).  These amps and the XV144 are keyed using an external sequencer.  I'm 
not sure if the little fan would help if you were to use the full 25 watts 
output of the transverters.  I should also note that the K3 is driving them 
with very little power (I forget exactly how many milliwatts).

Don't use a large computer power supply fan, as the fan motor will be similar 
in size to the cooling holes, which means you would actually be covering them 
up and making the problem worse.

Finally, I haven't come up with a neat way of daisy chaining them.  Typically 
you would use BNC T connectors, but having three transverters close to each 
other, with six coaxial cables connected with six BNC T connectors creates 
quite a mess; in addition to the control cables, but that's just a minor issue.

73 de Sebastian, W4AS



On Sep 15, 2012, at 6:05 AM, Gary Gregory  wrote:

> *Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any comments
> plus or minus as to performance.
> 
> I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be
> adding these transverters.
> 
> His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.
> 
> I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to lack of
> experience in the higher bands.
> 
> Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
> QRM.:-)
> 
> 73
> *
> -- 
> *Gary*

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Re: [Elecraft] NEW PRICE on Pelican 1200 case

[VE3WDM]

The Pelican case has been sold. 
Mike
VE3WDM



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[Elecraft] NEW PRICE on Pelican 1200 case

[Mike Weir]

With many thanks to an email from a fellow ham Steve I was informed the case 
can be purchased not including shipping for 40.00. At Pelican.com the case 
ships to most states for a total of 54.00. 
The price of the Pelican including shipping is now 40.00 and no longer 60.00. I 
was going from the purchase price I paid a few months ago at a local camera 
store.

Pelican 1200 case black with foam NEVER USED great for KX1, K1, or 
KX3. Was purchased for digi camera but never ended up keeping the 
camera. If you would like pictures I can send them to you. 

40.00 includes shipping in Canada and U.S.   

Mike 

VE3WDM

  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 DOS Program

[Thomas Horsten]

Any terminal program should do, like Telix, if you have a standard serial
port (I don't think there's any USB serial dongle drivers for DOS). Read
the programmer's manual for the commands. You probably want to enable Local
Echo in Telix.

I've written a C program that I use in Linux for a few K3/KX3 jobs, I could
probably get it to compile for DOS if you really need it, it can do things
like set the frequency and mode and read out the VFO, tell me what you want
to do and I'll let you know if I can help.

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 15 September 2012 15:55, K7JLTextra  wrote:

> I need a DOS communication program for my HP-100 that works with a KX3.
> Any ideas?
>
> John Hendricks
> Sent from my iPod
>
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[Elecraft] Krx3 ERR PLL2

[C L Jonkers]

Help. Of course its Saturday. Just finished the install of a KRX3 and got a 
dreaded ERR PLL2. Re-installed all the TMP cables, visually confirmed all the 
PC 
boards were plugged in correctly, cycled the power and  re-did the calibration 
to no avail.

Any ideas on something I may have missed, shoud try or look for while waiting 
for Monday? 

73,
Neil NJ6L
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[Elecraft] kX3 and L ion battery

[Phil Townsend]

If I install l ion batteries in the KX3 the total volts will be about 15.2 plus 
or minus... So what is the absolute Vmax for the KX3?

Phil
K5SSR
Santa Fe

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] KX3 DOS Program

[K7JLTextra]

I need a DOS communication program for my HP-100 that works with a KX3. Any 
ideas?

John Hendricks
Sent from my iPod
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Multiple Serial Inputs?

[Dick Dievendorff]

You can connect just one physical RS-232 computer port to your K3; RS-232 is
a "point to point" rather than a "multi-point bus" interface.  

However there are "port sharing" programs available that help with this.
LP-Bridge, from N8LP, is one.   http://www.telepostinc.com/LPB.html

There are others as well.  OmniRig from VE3NEA.  If you're using microHAM
products, they provide a "router" that I believe also acts as port sharing
program. There may be other hardware or software solutions.

Essentially the port sharing program "owns" the connection to the K3, and
the various "client application" programs (N1MM, etc)  are configured to
connect to "virtual" COM ports that are serviced by the port sharing program
itself. The program arbitrates between multiple write requests and routes
command responses to the requesting program.

Some "port sharing" programs won't allow connection to all "client
application" programs.  You don't want to try to load K3 firmware, for
example, through a port sharing program. 

A Y cable can be used if only two devices ever send.  SteppIR's antenna
controller "snoops" the RS-232 bus for messages carrying frequency
information. But it just receives, never transmits, so the K3 and PC don't
even know it's there.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry Pfeil
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 6:43 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Multiple Serial Inputs?

I have been running multiple programs (K3 Utility, WSJT, N1MM,
Digipan) that send PTT or other info to/from the K3 over the serial port
(which I have connected via a Keyspan USB/serial adapter, if that matters).
 Only one program is running at any time so no problem.

I'd like to be able to run some of these programs on different computers.
 How do I "bridge" the serial outputs?  I don't believe the K3 "knows"
which program it is talking to, so is it as simple as making a "Y" cable for
the serial ports?  Or do I need some other "active" device (and software?)?

Thanks and 73, Barry K6RM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Internal 2m module

[Jim Rhodes]

Definitely the  K144RFLK to lock the transverter to your TCXO.

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 4:57 AM, Kjeld Holm  wrote:

> Dear Elecrafter,
>
>
>
> Now I am ready to order the internal 2m module for my K3 with subreceiver.
> I
> have the FM filter and the KXV3A plus KTCXO3-1  TCXO  (0.5 ppm typ) High
> Stability Ref. Osc.
>
>
>
> Anything else I should order in relation to this?
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
> OZ1CCM Kjeld
>
>
>
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-- 
Jim K0XU
j...@rhodesend.net
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[Elecraft] K3 - Multiple Serial Inputs?

[Barry Pfeil]

I have been running multiple programs (K3 Utility, WSJT, N1MM,
Digipan) that send PTT or other info to/from the K3 over the serial port
(which I have connected via a Keyspan USB/serial adapter, if that matters).
 Only one program is running at any time so no problem.

I'd like to be able to run some of these programs on different computers.
 How do I "bridge" the serial outputs?  I don't believe the K3 "knows"
which program it is talking to, so is it as simple as making a "Y" cable
for the serial ports?  Or do I need some other "active" device (and
software?)?

Thanks and 73, Barry K6RM
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Power Supply

[pkhjr]

Another suggestion is the Gamma Research HPS-1a, which has a very small
footprint and will power a 100 watt radio.  So if you get an amp you will be
covered.  I have the HPS-1a and it powers my K3 just fine and is easy to
transport for portable operation.
  
http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

73 Tex
ka5y





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[Elecraft] [P3SVGA] Betta software messed up the K3 - good ending

[Igor Kosvin]

Happy to report that after going slowly and methodically I was able to load
the firmware and everything is working now.

 

Thanks and 73,

 

Igor, N1YX

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[Elecraft] New never used complete KAT100 case also EC2 parts.

[Mike Weir]

I purchased the KAT100-1 kit and before it was built I decided to order the EC2 
enclosure to mount the KAT100 and KPA100 units in it. I have a never used 
KAT100-1 complete case along with a pair of the anti slide brackets.  NOTE this 
kit does not include the hardware such as 2D fasteners or screws. Also the 
following panels from the EC2 enclosure.Front panel, top cover, rear panel. 
What is not included is the bottom cover andy side panels. I spoke with 
Elecraft and the KAT100-1 case only sells for 100.00.I will sell all the above 
including shipping for 70.00 Canadian if you would like pictures I can send 
them to you. MikeVE3WDM   
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Re: [Elecraft] [PSSVGA] Betta software messed up the K3

[Igor Kosvin]

Don,
Thanks, I did figure it out by reading manual and the K3 now is fine. I
still have problems with P3. I went back to 1.13, the SVGA loaded but one of
the FPGA (FPGA 3) did not, came with error. I then tried 1.16 but now the
utility shows SVGA N/A.

Igor, N1YX

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 8:40 AM
To: Igor Kosvin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [PSSVGA] Betta software messed up the K3

Igor,

It should not be necessary, but I would first connect the K3 direct to the
computer com port (eliminate the P3 from the serial port chain).
Then look at the K3 Utility help file (or the K3 manual) for Forcing a
Firmware Download.  Follow those instructions to get the K3 running again.
After that, use the P3 Utility to load the P3 firmware.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 12:14 AM, Igor Kosvin wrote:
> After installing P3 SVGA module everything was fine. Then  I decided 
> to try the beta software for P3. I had trouble loading it, the P3 
> utility would show that one of the FPGA images will not load. After 
> couple attempts suddenly MCU LD appeared on K3 display and the red TX LED
on K3 would blink.
> No matter what I do the K3 is stuck in this state and P3 is not 
> working either. When I try loading the software again to P3 it only 
> downloads the MCU and do not recognize the SVGA at all. What did I do 
> wrong and how can I correct the situation? Did anybody have similar
problem?
>
>

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[Elecraft] Pelican 1200 case for sale

[Mike Weir]

The case was sold but the sale did not work out so the unit is back on the 
market. 
Pelican 1200 case black with foam NEVER USED great for KX1, K1, or KX3. Was 
purchased for digi camera but never ended up keeping the camera. If you would 
like pictures I can send them to you. 
60.00 includes shipping in Canada and U.S.   
Mike 
VE3WDM
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Re: [Elecraft] [PSSVGA] Betta software messed up the K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Igor,

It should not be necessary, but I would first connect the K3 direct to 
the computer com port (eliminate the P3 from the serial port chain).
Then look at the K3 Utility help file (or the K3 manual) for Forcing a 
Firmware Download.  Follow those instructions to get the K3 running again.
After that, use the P3 Utility to load the P3 firmware.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 12:14 AM, Igor Kosvin wrote:
> After installing P3 SVGA module everything was fine. Then  I decided to try
> the beta software for P3. I had trouble loading it, the P3 utility would
> show that one of the FPGA images will not load. After couple attempts
> suddenly MCU LD appeared on K3 display and the red TX LED on K3 would blink.
> No matter what I do the K3 is stuck in this state and P3 is not working
> either. When I try loading the software again to P3 it only downloads the
> MCU and do not recognize the SVGA at all. What did I do wrong and how can I
> correct the situation? Did anybody have similar problem?
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [PSSVGA] Betta software messed up the K3

[Bill]

I suffered MCU LD a couple of months ago and eventually sent the K3 back 
for service. A part was replaced, hence, not a software or software 
loading problem.

I know you will receive replies off-line about this. Please share those 
responses.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC

IN GOD I TRUST (but, NOT a single politician)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[David G4DMP]

In a recent message, John Ragle  writes
>1. The inboard transverter for 2 meters could never be made to
>function...the unit oscillated with great abandon, despite the best
>advices of Elecraft.

There was instability on the early K144XV units, but there is a very
simple mod that cures it. It is a simple matter of removing a screw. It
is the central screw on the top cover. I replace the existing metal
pillar and screw with nylon ones and the instability disappeared like
magic. I thought there was a mod sheet about that. Wayne/Eric - is
there?

73 de David G4DMP

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Internal 2m module

[David G4DMP]

In a recent message, Kjeld Holm  writes
>Now I am ready to order the internal 2m module for my K3 with subreceiver. I
>have the FM filter and the KXV3A plus KTCXO3-1  TCXO  (0.5 ppm typ) High
>Stability Ref. Osc.
>
>Anything else I should order in relation to this?

Yes, Kjeld, add the K144RFLK to your list. This will ensure a high
degree of stability on 2m when using CW/SSB/Data. Otherwise you may get
drift.

73 de David G4DMP

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[David G4DMP]

I would say go for it, Gary. The Elecraft transverters all have a high
gain, low noise front end using the ATF-34143 Pseudomorphic High
Electron Mobility Transistor (HEMT). I presume your VK friend will be
using the internal (K144XV) 2M xverter and the external (XV432) 70cm
xverter. If he is going to get the K144XV I would recommend he also gets
the K144RFLK to ensure best stability when using CW/SSB/Data.

I do not have the 70cm XV432, but have the internal 2m xverter and an
external XV70 4m and they work fine.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Gary Gregory  writes
>*Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any comments
>plus or minus as to performance.
>
>I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be
>adding these transverters.
>
>His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.
>
>I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to lack of
>experience in the higher bands.
>
>Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
>QRM.:-)

There's no QRM on the reflector, just Phase Noise!

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Fred Smith]

Gary

The K3 with the internal 2m module works excellent and it doesn't have to
hang off the back of the transceiver. As for the 70cm the only choice for it
is the transverter as far 6m if is already in the K3 to begin with.

I use a smaller amp to drive my large 2m amp and it works out quite well
that way. I do have a friend who has both the Elecraft transverters for
2/6/432m for his K2 and like them.

73,
Fred/N0AZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Gregory
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 5:06 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

*Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any comments plus
or minus as to performance.

I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be
adding these transverters.

His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.

I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to lack of
experience in the higher bands.

Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
QRM.:-)

73
*
--
*Gary*
*Start the day off slow, then taper off.*
K3 #679
KPA500FT #18
KAT500FT 007
P3 #1629
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Re: [Elecraft] Getting ready to order a K2 - which options

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Ask yourself how many additional options are you going to add to that 
K2.  If the answer is none or few, forget the Rework Eliminators, they 
are a waste of your time and money.

The Rework Eliminators only make sense on a new K2 build when you are 
undecided about the option set that you want, or want to do a basic K2 
build now and order the options later.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/15/2012 1:21 AM, Bill Tubbs wrote:
> This thread is the first I've heard of this rework eliminator. It sounds 
> interesting but I can't imagine that working on K2 upgrades is that daunting, 
> is it? Granted, I didn't build my used K2 but all I've heard is that the 
> process is very straightforward with Elecraft's excellent instructions.
>
> I'm about to upgrade my early model to the latest version myself, and was 
> going to just plow through the stages one by one (I already have all the 
> upgrade parts). Would there be any advantage to this rework eliminator at 
> this stage or is that designed for upgrades "to be done at a later date"?
>
> Bill
> WK6A
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 14, 2012, at 6:24 PM, Johnny Siu  wrote:
>
>> Completely on the contrary, I always don't feel the "Rework Eliminiator" is 
>> necessary.  Installation or rework of most of the K2 options is NO more 
>> difficult than the K2 itself's construction.  Taking KSB2 or , KAF2 and KNB2 
>> as examples, after you take out option, you could easily revert to basic K2 
>> by adding a few jumpers or one / two components.
>>   
>> In the construction of over ten K2 in the past, I never felt the need of the 
>> rework eliminiator.  Currently, I am working on turning an early version K2 
>> into latest version.
>>
>> TNX & 73,
>>
>>
>> Johnny VR2XMC
>>
>>
>> 
>> 寄件人︰ Don Wilhelm 
>> 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> 傳送日期︰ 2012年09月15日 (週六) 1:48 AM
>> 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Getting ready to order a K2 - which options
>>
>> If you do use the "Rework Eliminators" (or often called "unPCBs") I
>> recommend you do *NOT* install the one for the K60XV - wait until you
>> actually have the K60XV option in hand.
>>
>> Why you may ask - well, the change of the C71 value modifies the PLL
>> voltage range drastically.  With the K60XV installed, the lowest voltage
>> which must be adjusted for occurs at 5300 kHz, and if one does not have
>> the K60XV in place, the K2 will not tune to the 60 meter band - so you
>> have to guess about the low voltage point, and remember to revisit it
>> when you do put the K60XV option in.
>>
>> It might be OK to install the headers, add the coax on the bottom of the
>> board and install D19 and D20, but do not change C71 until it is time to
>> install the K60XV.
>>
>> I just worked on a K2 that was sent in for repair because the owner did
>> not know to turn the D19 menu parameter to "y" - the rework eliminators
>> had been installed and he did not know that either (he had just bought
>> the K2).  So he endured the cost of repair and shipping just because of
>> a simple menu entry - don' change C71 until you have the K60XV in hand.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>> On 9/14/2012 12:30 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
>>> On 09/14/12 02:19, Fred Smith wrote:
 One thing I would suggest "strongly" is to consult with Don and ask him to
 advise you of the options and the order of installation as some can be done
 during the build. Otherwise you will disassemble much of the radio to
 install some of the options. On the other hand some are easily done after
 the build is completed at any time. JMHO
>>> I'd suggest the "Rework Eliminiator" K2 Option Bypass Headers:
>>>
>>>http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6372
>>>
>>> They work very well.  You build the option bypass headers, and then when
>>> you build your K2, you build it as though you are installing every
>>> option.  Many options require that you remove a component or two from
>>> the main board, so you just don't install those components at all during
>>> the build.  For the options you don't actually install, plug in the
>>> option bypass header.  Later, when you add an option, simply unplug the
>>> bypass header and plug in the option.
>>>
>>> 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[John Ragle]

I have a K3 with the XV transverters for 2 and 3/4 meters. (NOTE: these 
are the outboard transverters!) They drive 2 and 3/4 meter TE Systems 
brick amps to about 300 watts and 75 W respectively.

Two comments:

1. The inboard transverter for 2 meters could never be made to 
function...the unit oscillated with great abandon, despite the best 
advices of Elecraft. If you look back through the archives, you will 
find several reports, including one from VK, reportiong this behavior. 
The K3 works flawlessly with the external units, which I built from kits.

2. For anything but local use, the most important part of the chain is 
the antenna; its location, height, gain, etc. In particular, at 3/4 
meters the bound -water dielectric loss from water in vegetation is very 
significant, and the antenna must be well above (i.e. must "look" over) 
nearby trees, Koala Bears, etc. I use a 10 element beam on 2 and an 11 
element beam on 3/4 meters, and these are barely adequate for DX use 
from my location. A good antenna installation (high-gain array, proper 
feed lines) will overcome any slight deficiencies in the transverter 
front end...if one can hear antenna noise, one is fine.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

==

On 9/15/2012 10:05 AM, Gary Gregory wrote:
> *Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any comments
> plus or minus as to performance.
>
> I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be
> adding these transverters.
>
> His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.
>
> I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to lack of
> experience in the higher bands.
>
> Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
> QRM.:-)
>
> 73
> *

-- 
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 min. insulation between in band TX & RX?

[Felipe Ceglia]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your testimonial. By any chance do you have means to measure the
isolation  at your qth in dB?

My setup has already evolved to 7/8 andrew hardlines, silver plated shell
and pin connectors, etc. I have 4 7/8 and 2 1/2 coax lines entering  into
shack into a big 4 inch galvanized steel pipe (I think you know where I
learned about it.. hihi). I measured the RX antenna coaxial and it has no
discernible common mode signals flowing in.

So far I´ve got 80db isolation in worst case, but I have some all band mush
when transmitting in SSB. CW is  abit clearer.

Anyway I´d like to know how to derive this figure from power output in dBm
and, I guess, published IMD figures.

73,

Felipe Ceglia - PY1NB
-
PR1T team member /// Rio DX Group member /// Araucaria DX Group member
http://dxwatch.com /// http://reversebeacon.net /// http://riodxgroup.com



On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 1:46 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> On 9/14/2012 6:59 AM, Felipe Ceglia wrote:
> > In a in band two K3 scenario (100w, no amp), how many dB's of insulation
> > would be needed between each rig's antenna connector in order to keep the
> > RX clean?
>
> I can tell you what I do, and I can run two K3s into 1,5kW Titan amps
> into beams separated by about 180 ft on the same band. Depending on how
> the antennas are pointed, I can be within 60 kHz one K3 doesn't know the
> other one is there.  For example, when I point the two antennas to the
> ENE (the east coast of the US), they are at right angles to each other.
> If I point one antenna at the other, the radio will usually be
> overloaded, the preamp will turn off, and the attenuator will turn on,
> but I can often hear  strong stations and work them in between
> transmissions by the other rig. As an example, I might have one antenna
> pointed east and the other one NNW to work KL7 or UA0.
>
> Another important part of the equation is feedline.  The long runs to my
> antennas are mostly Hard line, and all the other coax in the system
> (including jumpers in the shack)  is very high quality RG8 (similar to
> LMR400) with a  robust copper braid plus foil shield. All of the
> connectors are Amphenol 83-1SPs, all are carefully soldered, and all
> connections are tightened with a wrench
>
> Each year, I'm part of a group that takes our K3s to a remote county for
> the California QSO Party (coming up in a few weeks). Our setup allows
> spacing of about 150 ft between two tri-banders, carefully located so
> that when we point them ENE (about 70 degrees, which gets us the East
> Coast, EU, and the Caribbean)  they have a null to each other.  We use
> our K3s with 600W amps, mostly KPA500s, but also sometimes a Yaesu or a
> Ten Tec Hercules II.  With this setup, we can have a CW station and a
> SSB station on the same band and work signals down to about the S5-S6
> level. To work weaker signals one of the stations has to switch bands.
> The primary difference, I think, are the feedlines, which are made from
> coax pooled from several members of the team. Some very good cables and
> connectors, some not so good, some connectors crimped rather than
> soldered, some good soldering, some not so good.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 and transverters

[Gary Gregory]

*Has anyone got a K3 with the 2M and 70cm transverters got any comments
plus or minus as to performance.

I don't have them myself but a VK is about to order his K3 and will be
adding these transverters.

His interest is HF, 2 and 70cm and not 6M.

I thought I would ask here as I don't know what to tell him due to lack of
experience in the higher bands.

Off list or On is OK as long as it doesn't flood the reflector with
QRM.:-)

73
*
-- 
*Gary*
*Start the day off slow, then taper off.*
K3 #679
KPA500FT #18
KAT500FT 007
P3 #1629
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[Elecraft] [K3] Internal 2m module

[Kjeld Holm]

Dear Elecrafter,

 

Now I am ready to order the internal 2m module for my K3 with subreceiver. I
have the FM filter and the KXV3A plus KTCXO3-1  TCXO  (0.5 ppm typ) High
Stability Ref. Osc.

 

Anything else I should order in relation to this?

 

Best regards

OZ1CCM Kjeld

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Phase Noise / CW Key Clicks

[David Cutter]

I'm hoping that the increase in reverse beacons will help spot the illegal 
power merchants, that will be a good start.

David
G3UNA

On 9/14/2012 1:23 AM, Jan Erik Holm wrote:
> Nothing new under the sun. It´s been around for decades. There are even
> contest stations that puts their amplifiers in class C on SSB and I´m
> not talking about small amps but things in the 5 - 10 kW region.

These guys are much closer to EU than to me in CA, so we don't hear
their trash. As long as cheaters like this are allowed to continue
without public exposure, they will continue.  I don't understand why
those EU contesters who play by the rules don't expose them. They must
make life absolutely miserable for you.

When I hear really dirty signals on the air, I DO spot them with that
note,  But I enter a wrong frequency so that they won't benefit from the
spot.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Phase Noise / CW Key Clicks

[David Cutter]

I'm hoping that the increase in reverse beacons will help spot the illegal 
power merchants, that will be a good start.

David
G3UNA

On 9/14/2012 1:23 AM, Jan Erik Holm wrote:
> Nothing new under the sun. It´s been around for decades. There are even
> contest stations that puts their amplifiers in class C on SSB and I´m
> not talking about small amps but things in the 5 - 10 kW region.

These guys are much closer to EU than to me in CA, so we don't hear
their trash. As long as cheaters like this are allowed to continue
without public exposure, they will continue.  I don't understand why
those EU contesters who play by the rules don't expose them. They must
make life absolutely miserable for you.

When I hear really dirty signals on the air, I DO spot them with that
note,  But I enter a wrong frequency so that they won't benefit from the
spot.

73, Jim K9YC

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