Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying AFSK?

2016-06-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Can you decode RTTY signals?  If not, get that working as a first step.

Is the soundcard device selected in HRD the same one that is connected 
to the K3 Line-In and Line Out jacks?  The soundcard LINE OUT (or SPKR) 
should connect to the K3 LINE IN.
Do you have the computer soundcard output level sliders set to 75% or 
greater?

Set the MIC SEL in the K3 menu to LINEIN.
Adjust the K3 "MIC LEVEL" (actually the Line-in level) so you have 4 
bars solid with the 5th bar flashing on the ALC meter.

Turn on VOX and it should transmit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/19/2016 10:00 PM, Richard Vincent wrote:

I recently purchased a new to me K3 which I am in the learning curve. I am 
trying to get the K3 to key RTTY in AFSK mode and not having any luck. I have 
Fred's book and have followed the steps with still no keying. I am using 
DM-780.  VOX is on, sound set correct (I think). Anyone have any idea of what I 
am missing? I would like to get this working for FD.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying AFSK?

2016-06-19 Thread Ian Kahn
Richard,

What do you have set as the keying method in DM-780? I use it extensively
and have never had an issue. I believe I have it set to use HRD keying,
which does not require the use of vox for keying.

Hope this helps.

73 de,

Ian, KM4IK
On Jun 19, 2016 10:02 PM, "Richard Vincent"  wrote:

> I recently purchased a new to me K3 which I am in the learning curve. I am
> trying to get the K3 to key RTTY in AFSK mode and not having any luck. I
> have Fred's book and have followed the steps with still no keying. I am
> using DM-780.  VOX is on, sound set correct (I think). Anyone have any idea
> of what I am missing? I would like to get this working for FD.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A

2015-11-03 Thread Scott via Elecraft
Thanks everyone, seems to be working great at 008 here.  On to the  next 
problem :) 73 Scott
 
 
In a message dated 11/3/2015 2:05:57 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
j...@audiosystemsgroup.com writes:

On  Tue,11/3/2015 11:48 AM, Elliott Lawrence wrote:
> I use the default  setting TX Dly 008 with my 87A with no problem.  I 
would think that it  would work fine also with the contempory 76s etc.

It works fine with my  Ten Tec Titan 425s, which are early '80s vintage, 
and use a vacuum relay  for antenna switching. That relay is the 
limitation; slower relays will  require a longer delay.

73, Jim  K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A

2015-11-03 Thread Robert Harmon

I use an Alpha 76PA with my K3 and no problems.

73,
Bob
K6uj

On 11/3/15 11:48 AM, Elliott Lawrence wrote:

I use the default setting TX Dly 008 with my 87A with no problem.  I would 
think that it would work fine also with the contempory 76s etc.
73
Elliott WA6TLA


On Nov 3, 2015, at 11:26 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:


Scott,

The K3 KEYOUT can handle up to 200 volts as long as it is a positive voltage.  
So +20 volts is no problem.

I cannot comment on the delay settings, I don't have an Alpha amp.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/3/2015 9:51 AM, Scott via Elecraft wrote:

Out of an overabundance of caution I thought I'd ask first
  My manuals for my old Alphas suggest the amplifier keying line is 20
something volts DC +, and the K3 manual says I can key way more than that +  DC.
  So I just wanted to confirm (or learn more):
  1) I shouldn't worry about any kind of an outboard relay system,  and
  2) was curious if there is any other advice re delay settings etc.  when
using the K3 with old Alphas like the 374A and 76A.
  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A

2015-11-03 Thread Jim Brown

On Tue,11/3/2015 11:48 AM, Elliott Lawrence wrote:

I use the default setting TX Dly 008 with my 87A with no problem.  I would 
think that it would work fine also with the contempory 76s etc.


It works fine with my Ten Tec Titan 425s, which are early '80s vintage, 
and use a vacuum relay for antenna switching. That relay is the 
limitation; slower relays will require a longer delay.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A

2015-11-03 Thread Elliott Lawrence
I use the default setting TX Dly 008 with my 87A with no problem.  I would 
think that it would work fine also with the contempory 76s etc.
73
Elliott WA6TLA


On Nov 3, 2015, at 11:26 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Scott,
> 
> The K3 KEYOUT can handle up to 200 volts as long as it is a positive voltage. 
>  So +20 volts is no problem.
> 
> I cannot comment on the delay settings, I don't have an Alpha amp.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 11/3/2015 9:51 AM, Scott via Elecraft wrote:
>> Out of an overabundance of caution I thought I'd ask first
>>  My manuals for my old Alphas suggest the amplifier keying line is 20
>> something volts DC +, and the K3 manual says I can key way more than that +  
>> DC.
>>  So I just wanted to confirm (or learn more):
>>  1) I shouldn't worry about any kind of an outboard relay system,  and
>>  2) was curious if there is any other advice re delay settings etc.  when
>> using the K3 with old Alphas like the 374A and 76A.
>>  
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying Alpha 374A/76A

2015-11-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

The K3 KEYOUT can handle up to 200 volts as long as it is a positive 
voltage.  So +20 volts is no problem.


I cannot comment on the delay settings, I don't have an Alpha amp.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/3/2015 9:51 AM, Scott via Elecraft wrote:

Out of an overabundance of caution I thought I'd ask first
  
My manuals for my old Alphas suggest the amplifier keying line is 20

something volts DC +, and the K3 manual says I can key way more than that +  DC.
  
So I just wanted to confirm (or learn more):
  
1) I shouldn't worry about any kind of an outboard relay system,  and
  
2) was curious if there is any other advice re delay settings etc.  when

using the K3 with old Alphas like the 374A and 76A.
  



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying external Amps

2013-04-17 Thread Jim Rhodes
I used to just leave them plugged into a Y connector and powered up the amp
I wanted to use. Now I have a KPA500 so I don't have to worry.

Jim Rhodes K0XU
Sent from my Droid Razr Maxx
On Apr 16, 2013 4:03 PM, "Richard Thorpe"  wrote:

> I have a K3 and want to key two different external amplifiers.  The K3 has
> one "key out" line this I use to key an Expert 1K 160-6 meter amp.  Now
> that I've installed a K144XV board I want to key a 144Mhz block amp.  I
> wondered how my fellow hams are keying two seperate amps separately with
> one key line?  Thank you.
>
> R Thorpe K6CG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying external Amps

2013-04-16 Thread Bill Wiehe
Hi Richard,
I simply build a small switch box from parts I had. One input and two outputs 
that you can switch between. If you are short on parts you can probably find 
everything at your local Radio Shack.
Bill - W0BBI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying external Amps

2013-04-16 Thread Lance Collister, W7GJ

Hi Richard,

If both amplifiers use transistor switching, you may be able to simply connect the 
two in parallel and use the K3 to activate whatever amp is turned on.  I am sure 
there must be better ways to do it, but simple often has a lot going for it.I 
have the key out of my K3 connected to a TE SYSTEMS 0552G amp for 6m and a Mierage 
B1016 amp for 2m.   No problems yet   GL and VY 73, Lance



On 4/16/2013 9:03 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

I have a K3 and want to key two different external amplifiers.  The K3 has one "key 
out" line this I use to key an Expert 1K 160-6 meter amp.  Now that I've installed a 
K144XV board I want to key a 144Mhz block amp.  I wondered how my fellow hams are keying 
two seperate amps separately with one key line?  Thank you.

R Thorpe K6CG
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--
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M)
P.O. Box 73
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USA
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Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying external Amps

2013-04-16 Thread Fred Smith
My 300w brick only need RF to it no key line needed.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Thorpe
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying external Amps

I have a K3 and want to key two different external amplifiers.  The K3 has
one "key out" line this I use to key an Expert 1K 160-6 meter amp.  Now that
I've installed a K144XV board I want to key a 144Mhz block amp.  I wondered
how my fellow hams are keying two seperate amps separately with one key
line?  Thank you.

R Thorpe K6CG
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying the KPA-500 & transverter

2011-04-11 Thread Olli
Hi Toby,

if my memory serves me right (digged into the schematics about 7-8 month' ago 
when I had a problem with one of the key-out jacks) this will never work as 
both 
key-out pins share the same circuitry. It's just different "final" switching 
transistors (and thus different loads possible) that distinguish both.

A solution around this could be the band specific PTT solution of WW2R/G4FRE 
(http://g4fre.com/K3_PTT_sw.htm) or something similar. The key is to use 
DIGOUT0 
or DIGOUT1 to control external switching. It can be configured per band.

73 & gl, Olli - DH8BQA



- Original Message - 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 10:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 keying the KPA-500 & transverter


> Hi,
>
> I plan on using my K3 with the KPA-500 and my Kuhne 144 MHz transverter.
>
> I would like to use the ACC (pin 10) Key-Out for the KPA-500 and the
> RCA/Phono Key-Out jack for the transverter. This, I assume, should not
> cause any problems.
>
> It would be a nice (sometime in the future) feature if it was possible
> to activate/deactivate operation of the two Key-Out signals depending
> upon which band one is currently operating on. In my case, the ACC
> Key-Out would be active from 160m to 6m and on 2m the RCA/Phone Key-Out.
>
> Or am I overlooking something?
>
> vy 73 de toby, DD5FZ
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-18 Thread Lu Romero
Or a composite video A/B switch.  

I have been using a Radio Shack composite/S-Video one in two
out Stereo audio and video switch to delegate amplifier key
lines, footswitch and Paddles between my primary K3 and my
secondary TS570 for a few years now.

The S-Video lines switch the paddles between each radio's
Microkeyer, while the video and audio RCA cables switch the
footswitch send to the Microkeyers and the key lines from
the rigs to the amplifier.

Snazzy thing, a sloping front panel in silver and gray
plastic with big rectangular hard to miss delegation buttons
that came with custom labels.

I even have a spare set of RCA jacks that might be pressed
into service for something else, like big fat red "this
radio is enabled" LED lamps... Well, maybe not  :)

Cost a total of I think $4.  I have seen other similar
things at WalMart and Target.

-lu-W4LT
K3 # 3192
 


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 16:52:50 -0500
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <4d5c4732.1030...@subich.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


The same thing can be accomplished with any 2 x 2 or 2 x 4
audio
switcher - left/right become PTT and ALC.   Radio Shack and
most
consumer electronics stores have a reasonable selection of
A/V
switches generally for less than the cost of a case, switch
and
the connectors.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-17 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

The same thing can be accomplished with any 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 audio
switcher - left/right become PTT and ALC.   Radio Shack and most
consumer electronics stores have a reasonable selection of A/V
switches generally for less than the cost of a case, switch and
the connectors.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2/16/2011 3:43 PM, HarrytheHam wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> I run a Kenwood TS-590S and the K3 with my Tokyo Hy Power HL-1.2Kfx amp. I
> take the keying and ALC lines from both rigs and connect them to an LDG
> ALK-2 switch (2 port switch) and then connect a set of "common" keying and
> ALC lines from the LDG to the amp. Works just fine.
>
> Harry WE1X
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread John Seney
K3 keys Alpha 9500 plug-n-play full break-in sweet!

73

WD1V

Sent from my iPhone
John Seney
603  785-2413


On Feb 16, 2011, at 2:30 PM, Fred Serota  wrote:

> Is there anything about the voltage or current on the keying line that would 
> prohibit putting the K3's key line in parallel with an ICOM's keying line so 
> I would not have to switch between the two when sharing an amplifier?
> 
> In other words, could I just use a "Y" connector to connect the two 
> transceivers to the keying line on my amplifier (Alpha 9500)?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Fred, K3BHX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Paul Christensen
Sounds like a wager for some beer money!  :-))

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Ellington" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier


> Sorry, I still don't think it will work reliably with the ICOM unpowered, 
> if it has a pull-up resistor, etc.  However, the ICOM may in fact be open 
> collector/drain, in which case there's no problem.  Might be worth 
> checking.
>
> Scott   K9MA
>
>
>
> On Feb 16, 2011, at 3:48 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
>
>>> I don't think the diode isolation will work in this case.
>>>
>>> Scott   K9MA
>>
>> If the Icom used an amp key line from an NPN transistor with an open
>> collector and a high value (e.g., 10K) pull-up resistor to a positive 
>> supply
>> rail, then all one needs is a steering diode added to the Icom key line
>> configured with the cathode to the junction of the Icom's collector and
>> pull-up resistor.  The diode's anode points to the Alpha 9500.  The K3 
>> with
>> its MOSFET output simply parallels the 9500 key line.  It doesn't care.
>>
>> If the Icom is unpowered or powered, a Schottky steering diode will 
>> isolate
>> the pull-up resistor while still allowing the driving transistor's 
>> junction
>> to pull low enough to ground.  An unbiased or unpowered NPN 
>> open-collector
>> switching transistor should not pull to ground potential if the rig is
>> powered down.
>>
>> The only remaining obstacle is that when the Icom is powered down, the 
>> Alpha
>> 9500 key line would see 10K resistance through the pull-up resistor to 
>> the
>> power supply positive rail.  Powered down, that rail may be close to 
>> ground
>> potential.  So, whether a steering diode alone will work is really a 
>> matter
>> of: (1) the value of the pull-up resistor; and (2) whether the Alpha 
>> 9500's
>> key line circuitry is sensitive to high-impedance switching.  No problem 
>> if
>> the Alpha uses a photo-transistor on the input key line, for example. 
>> But
>> if say a pair of both pull-up and pull-down resistors are used ahead of a
>> CMOS gate, then the value of the resistors need to be known.
>>
>> If a steering diode still doesn't work, then a separate switching 
>> transistor
>> can be used, using an open-collector without a pull-up resistor -- or a
>> MOSFET without a pull up on the drain.
>>
>> Paul, W9AC
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Scott Ellington
Sorry, I still don't think it will work reliably with the ICOM unpowered, if it 
has a pull-up resistor, etc.  However, the ICOM may in fact be open 
collector/drain, in which case there's no problem.  Might be worth checking.

Scott   K9MA


 
On Feb 16, 2011, at 3:48 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:

>> I don't think the diode isolation will work in this case.
>> 
>> Scott   K9MA
> 
> If the Icom used an amp key line from an NPN transistor with an open 
> collector and a high value (e.g., 10K) pull-up resistor to a positive supply 
> rail, then all one needs is a steering diode added to the Icom key line 
> configured with the cathode to the junction of the Icom's collector and 
> pull-up resistor.  The diode's anode points to the Alpha 9500.  The K3 with 
> its MOSFET output simply parallels the 9500 key line.  It doesn't care.
> 
> If the Icom is unpowered or powered, a Schottky steering diode will isolate 
> the pull-up resistor while still allowing the driving transistor's junction 
> to pull low enough to ground.  An unbiased or unpowered NPN open-collector 
> switching transistor should not pull to ground potential if the rig is 
> powered down.
> 
> The only remaining obstacle is that when the Icom is powered down, the Alpha 
> 9500 key line would see 10K resistance through the pull-up resistor to the 
> power supply positive rail.  Powered down, that rail may be close to ground 
> potential.  So, whether a steering diode alone will work is really a matter 
> of: (1) the value of the pull-up resistor; and (2) whether the Alpha 9500's 
> key line circuitry is sensitive to high-impedance switching.  No problem if 
> the Alpha uses a photo-transistor on the input key line, for example.  But 
> if say a pair of both pull-up and pull-down resistors are used ahead of a 
> CMOS gate, then the value of the resistors need to be known.
> 
> If a steering diode still doesn't work, then a separate switching transistor 
> can be used, using an open-collector without a pull-up resistor -- or a 
> MOSFET without a pull up on the drain.
> 
> Paul, W9AC 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Paul Christensen
>I don't think the diode isolation will work in this case.
>
> Scott   K9MA

If the Icom used an amp key line from an NPN transistor with an open 
collector and a high value (e.g., 10K) pull-up resistor to a positive supply 
rail, then all one needs is a steering diode added to the Icom key line 
configured with the cathode to the junction of the Icom's collector and 
pull-up resistor.  The diode's anode points to the Alpha 9500.  The K3 with 
its MOSFET output simply parallels the 9500 key line.  It doesn't care.

If the Icom is unpowered or powered, a Schottky steering diode will isolate 
the pull-up resistor while still allowing the driving transistor's junction 
to pull low enough to ground.  An unbiased or unpowered NPN open-collector 
switching transistor should not pull to ground potential if the rig is 
powered down.

The only remaining obstacle is that when the Icom is powered down, the Alpha 
9500 key line would see 10K resistance through the pull-up resistor to the 
power supply positive rail.  Powered down, that rail may be close to ground 
potential.  So, whether a steering diode alone will work is really a matter 
of: (1) the value of the pull-up resistor; and (2) whether the Alpha 9500's 
key line circuitry is sensitive to high-impedance switching.  No problem if 
the Alpha uses a photo-transistor on the input key line, for example.  But 
if say a pair of both pull-up and pull-down resistors are used ahead of a 
CMOS gate, then the value of the resistors need to be known.

If a steering diode still doesn't work, then a separate switching transistor 
can be used, using an open-collector without a pull-up resistor -- or a 
MOSFET without a pull up on the drain.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Scott Ellington
I don't think the diode isolation will work in this case.  

Scott   K9MA


On Feb 16, 2011, at 2:36 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:

>> You might have a problem when only one rig is powered up, with the 
>> unpowered one pulling down the key/control line.   The K3 is OK, as both 
>> outputs are open drain/collector.  If that's also the case with the ICOM, 
>> the "Y" connector should work.  If the ICOM has a pull-up resistor, or 
>> anything except an open drain/collector connected to that control line, 
>> there could be a problem...
> 
> In that case, a Schottky steering diode can be used on the Icom key line.  A 
> 1N914 or 1N400X series may be fine but I've seen instances where the higher 
> diode junction voltage prevents the line from going low enough to circuit 
> ground potential.  Not sure how sensitive the Alpha 9500 is to that effect. 
> I agree with Scott that the K3 should be fine with its open-drain on the 
> MOSFET switch.
> 
> I don't see this issue very often on the amp key line -- I do see it often 
> when trying to use a single CW keyer, feeding multiple transceiver's in 
> parallel, due to the use of pull-up resistors on the paddle key line. 
> Again, Schottky steering diodes used for isolation at the input to each 
> transceiver's CW key line solves the problem.
> 
> Paul, W9AC 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread HarrytheHam

Fred,

I run a Kenwood TS-590S and the K3 with my Tokyo Hy Power HL-1.2Kfx amp. I
take the keying and ALC lines from both rigs and connect them to an LDG
ALK-2 switch (2 port switch) and then connect a set of "common" keying and
ALC lines from the LDG to the amp. Works just fine.

Harry WE1X

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Paul Christensen
> You might have a problem when only one rig is powered up, with the 
> unpowered one pulling down the key/control line.   The K3 is OK, as both 
> outputs are open drain/collector.  If that's also the case with the ICOM, 
> the "Y" connector should work.  If the ICOM has a pull-up resistor, or 
> anything except an open drain/collector connected to that control line, 
> there could be a problem...

In that case, a Schottky steering diode can be used on the Icom key line.  A 
1N914 or 1N400X series may be fine but I've seen instances where the higher 
diode junction voltage prevents the line from going low enough to circuit 
ground potential.  Not sure how sensitive the Alpha 9500 is to that effect. 
I agree with Scott that the K3 should be fine with its open-drain on the 
MOSFET switch.

I don't see this issue very often on the amp key line -- I do see it often 
when trying to use a single CW keyer, feeding multiple transceiver's in 
parallel, due to the use of pull-up resistors on the paddle key line. 
Again, Schottky steering diodes used for isolation at the input to each 
transceiver's CW key line solves the problem.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an amplifier

2011-02-16 Thread Scott Ellington
You might have a problem when only one rig is powered up, with the unpowered 
one pulling down the key/control line.   The K3 is OK, as both outputs are open 
drain/collector.  If that's also the case with the ICOM, the "Y" connector 
should work.  If the ICOM has a pull-up resistor, or anything except an open 
drain/collector connected to that control line, there could be a problem.

Scott  K9MA 


On Feb 16, 2011, at 1:29 PM, Fred Serota wrote:

> Is there anything about the voltage or current on the keying line that would 
> prohibit putting the K3's key line in parallel with an ICOM's keying line so 
> I would not have to switch between the two when sharing an amplifier?
> 
> In other words, could I just use a "Y" connector to connect the two 
> transceivers to the keying line on my amplifier (Alpha 9500)?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Fred, K3BHX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying an Alpha 91

2010-11-29 Thread Bob Naumann
No interface necessary.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of georgek...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 8:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 keying an Alpha 91

I have been invited to operate at V48M with my K3 where an Alpha 91 will be 
 the amp.  Can I key the Alpha 91 directly from the K3's PTT line, or will 
I  need a keying interface to protect the K3?
 
73, George.
 
George  Wagner, K5KG
Sarasota, FL 
941-400-1960  cell
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying at turn-on

2010-04-01 Thread Vic K2VCO
Ken,

This sounds like your K3 is configured for DTR keying. Go to the CONFIG menu 
and look for 
the PTT-KEY parameter. If it is set for DTR keying, then when the computer 
boots, its BIOS 
raises the DTR line a few times which keys the radio.

Unless you are normally keying your radio this way, you should set the menu 
parameter to 
OFF OFF.

I find it easier to turn it off between contests than to remember to go into 
test mode or 
unplug the cable every time I boot the computer.

On 4/1/2010 11:35 AM, Ken Kopp wrote:
> Perhaps related 
>
> I don't see the short output of RF that's being described.
> (S/N 56 w/latest firmware).
>
> I -do- note seven evenly-spaced +/- one second full power
> key-ups as my computer boots up when I forget to unplug
> the USB cable from the radio ... or initiate MODE/TEST.
>
> I have no contest or control software running that would
> initiate these seven key-ups, so I assume this is the utility
> polling the radio as it is launched during the computer's
> boot-up.
>
> I do have a Tokyo Hi-Power PA, but it's seldom on and
> wouldn't be turned on -before- the K3 is turned on.
>
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
> elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
> http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5


-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying at turn-on

2010-04-01 Thread Tom W8JI
<>

That's probably because no one ever said there was an RF 
pulse.  :-)

It just pulls the TX line that runs out to the amplifier 
low. That's only a problem when the amp has a step start 
that cannot handle the quiescent current of the amp in the 
TX mode during start. RF would be a disaster with almost any 
amp, the TX line enable is just a worry with some amps and 
the real worry is only with a poorly implemented step start.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button, IsPushed (Tom W8JI)

2010-04-01 Thread Ignacy

I have this behavior when K3 is attached by a serial cable and RTS or CTS are
set for keying. Must have something to do with COM port initialization.
Nothing wrong with K3. 
Ignacy
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button, IsPushed (Tom W8JI)

2010-04-01 Thread Tom W8JI
<<
It is not normal behavior for my K3. The red tx light comes 
on for a
split second but there is no amp keying or RF output.
73 Art>>

Art,

Mine has always closed the amplifier relay control line upon 
power up during the period after the power switch is pushed 
"on" and the display illuminates. The K3's red TX light is 
**not** on during that time. it does it any mode, and any 
VOX or PTT setting.

Make sure yours doesn't do the same thing.

I think this would mainly be a problem if someone power the 
amp and radio up at the same time, or powers the amp 
slightly before the radio is turned on. While my amps are 
immune to step-start damage, some systems can be damaged if 
the relay line is pulled low during the amplifier's power-up 
step-start sequence. This damage is a step-start design 
shortfall aggravated by an unusual power up behavior.

It's more annoying to me, since it can't damage the amps I 
have, but it does make me look carefully at meters to be 
sure it isn't transmitting. Especially if I am reloading 
firmware and I have the amplifiers and antenna transfer 
systems all running. :-)

73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power ButtonIs Pushed

2010-04-01 Thread Tom W8JI
<<<
It took me a copy of tries to make my point to get Wayne to 
make the change,
but at V3.10 of the firmware, he made the following addition 
feature
available:

CW VOX OFF BY DEFAULT ON POWER-UP: Some stations using PC 
control may
inadvertently key the K3 in CW mode on power-up if VOX CW is 
in effect. If
this is an issue at your station, locate the CONFIG:CW WGHT 
menu entry and
tap '4', changing VOX NOR to AUTO  OFF. This will make CW 
VOX default to OFF
when the K3 is turned on.

That way, if a person accidentally forgets to turn VOX OFF 
when he shuts the
radio down, it will automatically turn itself OFF next time 
you turn the K3
on.  On my radio, if I want to transmit after I turn the 
radio ON, I have to
re-select VOX ON again.>>>

This does not solve or change the problem.

The problem is, when the radio boots up, the amplifier relay 
control line is pulled low during the very early part of the 
power up. This happens in any mode with any VOX setting.

The situation this creates is if an external power amp with 
step-start is connected, some amplifiers go into quiescent 
current (TX relay closure) when the radio is powering up. 
This false triggering of the PA relay can cause an amplifier 
inrush circuit to be damaged.

For example the Drake L4B would would try to draw about 500 
additional watts through the step-start if the TX line was 
held low on amplifier power up if the radio is booting at 
the same time. Seeing all my TX indicators illuminate and 
hearing relays click when I power up the K3 is more of an 
annoyance to me, because my amplifers are designed to be in 
any keying state on power up without damage. On some 
amplifiers though, it can actually hurt components if they 
are held in TX mode while powering up.

I think the burden of design fault is in the amplifier, 
there should be no relay line state that causes or allows 
damage on power up, but the radio boot behavior is a little 
annoying. It might be some I/O areas like the relay control 
just fault into a TX mode before the system is booted, and 
there may be no way around that.

73 Tom


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button, IsPushed (Tom W8JI)

2010-04-01 Thread Art K6XT
It is not normal behavior for my K3. The red tx light comes on for a 
split second but there is no amp keying or RF output.
73 Art

-- 
73 Art
Allison, Colorado
"Whether you believe you can do a thing or
not, you are right."  --Henry Ford.

Message: 51
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 07:50:22 -0400
From: "Tom W8JI" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power
Button  IsPushed
To: "-.-.  --.-N3TU -.-.  --.-" ,

Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

<<>>

That's normal behavior for the K3.

I don't like it either, but a properly designed step-start 
should still be OK with just the quiescent current of the PA 
tubes so long as RF is not applied. The only problem would 
come in when the step-start and the radio both have issues. 
If the step-start isn't planned well, and blows a fuse or a 
resistor when starting under quiescent current loads, then 
the radio doing closing the relay line at power-on  becomes 
a problem.

As a suggestion you could easily build a time-delay start up 
for the amp, which it should have if simply closing the 
relay control line at amplifier power-on causes damage. 
You'd have to add a small relay and wire it in series with 
the relay control jack.

My amplifiers start just fine at quiescent loads, so I don't 
worry (although what you observe annoys me too and I can see 
where it could cause step-start damage in some systems).

73, Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button Is Pushed

2010-04-01 Thread gary bartlett
It took me a copy of tries to make my point to get Wayne to make the change,
but at V3.10 of the firmware, he made the following addition feature
available:

CW VOX OFF BY DEFAULT ON POWER-UP: Some stations using PC control may
inadvertently key the K3 in CW mode on power-up if VOX CW is in effect. If
this is an issue at your station, locate the CONFIG:CW WGHT menu entry and
tap '4', changing VOX NOR to AUTO  OFF. This will make CW VOX default to OFF
when the K3 is turned on. 

That way, if a person accidentally forgets to turn VOX OFF when he shuts the
radio down, it will automatically turn itself OFF next time you turn the K3
on.  On my radio, if I want to transmit after I turn the radio ON, I have to
re-select VOX ON again.  

73,
Gary, VE1RGB

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of -.-. --.-N3TU -.-.
--.-
Sent: April 1, 2010 3:34 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button Is
Pushed


Is it normal for the K3 to key up right away for a split second when turned
on. I have a Drake L4B with a soft key behind the radio. If by accident the
amp is out of the  stand-by mode and you turn on the K3, it will key the amp
for a split second. Is this normal? Don't get me wrong, I try to put it in
standby but every now and then I'll forget. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button Is Pushed

2010-04-01 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
I'm not sure I'm understanding your problem.  Are you talking about
having the amp on before the K3 is powered up?  Are you leaving the
amp with filaments on during periods while the K3 has been powered
off?  Powering on the K3 and waiting a second to power on the amp
would seem to remove the issue with the K3 getting its states in order
on power-up.

73, Guy

On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 2:34 AM, -.-.  --.-N3TU -.-.  --.-
 wrote:
>
> Is it normal for the K3 to key up right away for a split second when turned
> on. I have a Drake L4B with a soft key behind the radio. If by accident the
> amp is out of the  stand-by mode and you turn on the K3, it will key the amp
> for a split second. Is this normal? Don't get me wrong, I try to put it in
> standby but every now and then I'll forget.
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Keying-Up-For-A-Split-Second-When-Power-Button-Is-Pushed-tp4835488p4835488.html
> Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Up For A Split Second When Power Button IsPushed

2010-04-01 Thread Tom W8JI
<<>>

That's normal behavior for the K3.

I don't like it either, but a properly designed step-start 
should still be OK with just the quiescent current of the PA 
tubes so long as RF is not applied. The only problem would 
come in when the step-start and the radio both have issues. 
If the step-start isn't planned well, and blows a fuse or a 
resistor when starting under quiescent current loads, then 
the radio doing closing the relay line at power-on  becomes 
a problem.

As a suggestion you could easily build a time-delay start up 
for the amp, which it should have if simply closing the 
relay control line at amplifier power-on causes damage. 
You'd have to add a small relay and wire it in series with 
the relay control jack.

My amplifiers start just fine at quiescent loads, so I don't 
worry (although what you observe annoys me too and I can see 
where it could cause step-start damage in some systems).

73, Tom





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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying problem on CAT line

2009-12-20 Thread Julian, G4ILO

Forgive me if this is stating the obvious, but have you disabled VOX by any
chance?

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Timing

2009-02-12 Thread Neal



Neal wrote:
> 
> Conratulations David, you have discovered that the default Iambic keying
> mode is mode A.  Thanks to Wayne who prefers mode A.  I also prefer mode
> A.
> 
> The Japanese rigs give you only mode B whether you want it or not.
> 
> Enjoy your K3.
> 
> Neal, WA6OCP
> K3 #305
> 
> 
> David Gilbert wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> OK,  I know this is a strange (possibly even stupid) question, but I'm 
>> going to ask it anyway.
>> 
>> I've owned my new K3 for just a couple of weeks now, having upgraded 
>> (boy, have I upgraded) from an Icom 756Pro.  I tend to mostly operate 
>> CW, albeit primarily for DXing and contesting rather than ragchewing.  
>> Using the same paddle (old Bencher dual lever) with no change in 
>> adjustments, there seems to be a different feel when keying the K3.  The 
>> timing seems to be more forgiving and the feel seems just a bit 
>> "thicker".  I've been fairly active for a long time, and it actually 
>> kind of surprised me the first time I keyed the rig.  I typically 
>> operate around 28 WPM.
>> 
>> So is that just my imagination, or has anyone else noticed a 
>> difference?  I'm wondering whether Elecraft has possibly used a 
>> different timing algorithm when polling the key versus other rigs.
>> 
>> Snickering will be accepted gracefully ...
>> 
>> 73,
>> Dave   AB7E
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Timing

2009-02-12 Thread Neal

Conratulations David, you have discovered that the default Iambic keying mode
is mode A.  Thanks to Wayne who prefers mode A.  I also prefer mode A.

The Japanese rigs give you only mode B whether you want it or not.

Enjoy your K3.

Neal, WA6OCP
K3 #305


David Gilbert wrote:
> 
> 
> OK,  I know this is a strange (possibly even stupid) question, but I'm 
> going to ask it anyway.
> 
> I've owned my new K3 for just a couple of weeks now, having upgraded 
> (boy, have I upgraded) from an Icom 756Pro.  I tend to mostly operate 
> CW, albeit primarily for DXing and contesting rather than ragchewing.  
> Using the same paddle (old Bencher dual lever) with no change in 
> adjustments, there seems to be a different feel when keying the K3.  The 
> timing seems to be more forgiving and the feel seems just a bit 
> "thicker".  I've been fairly active for a long time, and it actually 
> kind of surprised me the first time I keyed the rig.  I typically 
> operate around 28 WPM.
> 
> So is that just my imagination, or has anyone else noticed a 
> difference?  I'm wondering whether Elecraft has possibly used a 
> different timing algorithm when polling the key versus other rigs.
> 
> Snickering will be accepted gracefully ...
> 
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 keying

2008-11-27 Thread GW0ETF

Barry,

Shortening of characters in QSK is a common issue in many transceivers
though it seems less of a problem in the K3. What you should really use to
combat it is 'Keying Compensation' which you will see in for example Winkey
configuration settings and other external keyers; it lengthens each
character by a fixed amount (x millisecs) and is independent of keying speed
and is designed specifically for this problem. Think I'm right in saying the
K3 internal keyer doesn't have this adjustment (yet?).

When I checked my K3 on my 'scope the shortening in qsk looked pretty
minimal but I find a setting of 3ms makes the (Winkey) keying feel 'sweeter'
so that's what I use...

73 and look out for you this weekend at GW0GEI (M2)

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF


Barry Simpson wrote:
> 
> No one has commented on the apparent shortening of the first dit  as
> illustrated in the QST review, Figure 1.
> 
>  
> 
> My K3 keying does not have that issue as far as I can judge from listening
> on a separate receiver.
> 
>  
> 
> What is does have is a disparity between keying weighting between MOX
> (either front panel switch or foot switch) and VOX/QSK.
> 
>  
> 
> Compared with MOX which has characters about the same length as my other
> rigs on my keyer's 50% weighting setting (ie it is about right) the
> characters in VOX and QSK are shortened.
> 
>  
> 
> I simply overcome it by altering my weighting to 58% and not using MOX. I
> note that Elecraft deal with the same issue by having the weighting set at
> 1.15 in the config menu.
> 
>  
> 
> Not a real problem - just an observation.
> 
>  
> 
> Looking forward to giving the K3 a good workout this weekend.
> 
>  
> 
> Barry Simpson  K3 #1397
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Forexample: A very simple fix is to use a OptoMOS relay. The
LCA110 from CLARE can key 350V 120 mA, cost seems to be a
little over 2 USD.

/ Jim SM2EKM

David Yarnes wrote:
And the answer is??   I've been led to believe this isn't such a 
good idea, and that you should use one of those amp keying kits that the 
Heathkit Shop sells.  I've got an old SB-200 sitting around here, but 
I've been afraid to try it!


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - From: "Ralph Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200



I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread Jeff Wandling W7BRS


I installed this Harbach kit on two SB-200s I have.  It takes very little 
time and the peace of mind is worth it.  You might as well install the 
soft-start and soft-key mods at the same time - they go roughly into the 
same place on the underside of the SB-200.


Pictures:  http://w7brs.com/sb200

Works fine on my K3.

--
Jeff Wandling DE W7BRS K3 #2105 http://w7brs.com/k3
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008, GM4KGK wrote:





Ralph Parker wrote:


I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF



I can thoroughly recommend Harbach Electronics' SK-201 keying kit for the
SB200.
Easy to fit and doesn't break the bank. Reduces keying requirements to about
a volt at 1.5mA and you can use it with any rig.
http://www.harbachelectronics.com/main/page_products_sb200__sb201.html

I have no connection with the company.
73
Norman - GM4KGK
K3 #1139.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200 addendum

2008-11-22 Thread hank k8dd

Brian 

Better yet - If you can find a MFJ / Ameritron ARB-702 before you leave 
http://www.ameritron.com/Product.php?productid=ARB-702
We've used them with SB200 and FL2100 amps on a couple trips to FP and
they are great and pretty much bullet proof.

73 es GL
HankK8DD




- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Moran" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Don Ehrlich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ; "Ralph Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200 addendum


I am the parts delivery guy :-) there's a great one transistor one resistor 
circuit for doing this that I have used in the past. I'll bring some relays 
and back emf diodes too

Brian soon to be vp5/n9adg


Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2008, at 10:39 AM, "Don Ehrlich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:


Ralph,

A reed relay is a fragile device and may not survive the transient current 
and voltage spikes present when switching the SB200 relay.  Be sure to have 
your friend bring a relay robust enough to handle the load presented by the 
relay coil in the SB200.


Don K7FJ



Tnx for your comments, guys.
I'm at VP5W, and no Radio Shack on the island :-(
I did bring a little relay interface, but the reed relay has given up the
ghost. Fortunately, we have one op coming from Seattle next week, and he
can bring a replacement.
It is a borrowed SB-200, otherwise I would have installed a soft-key mod.
Oh well
Elecraft had better hurry with their KPA800!

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread GM4KGK



Ralph Parker wrote:
> 
> I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
> I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!
> 
> VE7XF
> 

I can thoroughly recommend Harbach Electronics' SK-201 keying kit for the
SB200.
Easy to fit and doesn't break the bank. Reduces keying requirements to about
a volt at 1.5mA and you can use it with any rig.
http://www.harbachelectronics.com/main/page_products_sb200__sb201.html

I have no connection with the company.
73
Norman - GM4KGK
K3 #1139.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread David Yarnes
And the answer is??   I've been led to believe this isn't such a good 
idea, and that you should use one of those amp keying kits that the Heathkit 
Shop sells.  I've got an old SB-200 sitting around here, but I've been 
afraid to try it!


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: "Ralph Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200



I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200 addendum

2008-11-22 Thread Brian Moran
I am the parts delivery guy :-) there's a great one transistor one resistor 
circuit for doing this that I have used in the past. I'll bring some relays and 
back emf diodes too
Brian soon to be vp5/n9adg


Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2008, at 10:39 AM, "Don Ehrlich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Ralph,

A reed relay is a fragile device and may not survive the transient current and 
voltage spikes present when switching the SB200 relay.  Be sure to have your 
friend bring a relay robust enough to handle the load presented by the relay 
coil in the SB200.

Don K7FJ



Tnx for your comments, guys.
I'm at VP5W, and no Radio Shack on the island :-(
I did bring a little relay interface, but the reed relay has given up the
ghost. Fortunately, we have one op coming from Seattle next week, and he
can bring a replacement.
It is a borrowed SB-200, otherwise I would have installed a soft-key mod.
Oh well
Elecraft had better hurry with their KPA800!

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200 addendum

2008-11-22 Thread Don Ehrlich

Ralph,

A reed relay is a fragile device and may not survive the transient current 
and voltage spikes present when switching the SB200 relay.  Be sure to have 
your friend bring a relay robust enough to handle the load presented by the 
relay coil in the SB200.


Don K7FJ




Tnx for your comments, guys.
I'm at VP5W, and no Radio Shack on the island :-(
I did bring a little relay interface, but the reed relay has given up the
ghost. Fortunately, we have one op coming from Seattle next week, and he
can bring a replacement.
It is a borrowed SB-200, otherwise I would have installed a soft-key mod.
Oh well
Elecraft had better hurry with their KPA800!

VE7XF



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ralph,

If your SB-200 has not been modified, its relay voltage is negative, and 
THAT will cause problems.
The HEXFET in the K3 will take up to 200 volts, but that must be a 
positive voltage.


I would suggest adding a small relay in the SB-200 - rectifying the 
filament voltage at the transformer with a full wave rectifier and a 
capacitor should produce about 8 volts - a resistor could be added in 
series to reduce the voltage at the new relay to about 6 volts.  YMMV, 
but that is the way I would do it.  The original wire to the RELAY jack 
would go to a NO contact on the relay (other side of the contact to 
ground), and the side of the new relay not connected to the newly formed 
power source connects to the RELAY jack.  That way everything is 
contained in the SB-200 and no need for external boxes or sources of 
relay power.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ralph Parker wrote:

I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF
  


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread Phil and Christina
A cheap 12V relay with a diode across it works great for me in this
application.  No problems with my SB200 and the K2 or K3.

Phil
NS7P

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fern Rivard
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Ralph Parker
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200


Ralf, just make up a simple interface between your K3 keying and the
keying input of your SB-200 or look for one of those interfaces that Yaesu
had available and I believe that Ameritron offers one as well.Fern
VE7GZ




- Original Message -
From: "Ralph Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200


I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200

2008-11-22 Thread Don Ehrlich
DON'T DO IT!  The SB200 applies Minus 140 volts or so to the relay control 
jack and the K3 can not control it.  You could damage the K3.


Don K7FJ


- Original Message - 
From: "Ralph Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 17:26
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Keying SB-200



I'm just about to connect the KEY OUT to the SB-200 relay.
I hope the little transistor in the K3 can take it!

VE7XF

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-08 Thread Jerry T. Dowell
I also would like Ultimatic mode implemented. 

Jerry   AI6L

-Original Message-
From: Jack Regan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 3:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?



Wayne (and Gary)

I hope you and Gary will reconsider adding Ultimatic/Single Lever Paddle
support to the K3 internal keyer.  I think that more than Don, Dave and
myself would welcome that addition to the K3.

The elegance of the K3, a rig that rivals and even surpasses many of the
very high end radios, is diminished by the need to use an external keyer to
use a mode that many find invaluable. Removing the need to add another piece
of gear to the table top is not a minor inconvenience.  The small size of
the K3 seems to be an attempt to make it convenient for field/portable use
and to then require another piece of gear to make it work seems to diminish
its attempt to reach that goal.

Jack, AE6GC, KX1 1403, K3 1433




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-07 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
Here's a thread of discussion on Ultimatic keying for other Elecraft 
products:

http://n2.nabble.com/Ultimatic-keying-in-KX1-K1--td447092.html

I've used it in the K1EL keyer, which is done with an 8-pin chip that 
costs about $1, so I don't think it's that much effort.
I'd rather like to try Ultimatic on my K3, but I'm unlikely to try 
ESSB.  I don't think it's productive to criticize feature requests as 
not being useful.
But if ESSB helps Elecraft reach higher product volumes and deliver the 
features I want, I consider it a plus.


Leigh/WA5ZNU

Wasted effort as far as I am concerned

 Jim K4JAF
- Original Message - From: "Jack Regan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?





Wayne (and Gary)

I hope you and Gary will reconsider adding Ultimatic/Single Lever Paddle
support to the K3 internal keyer.  I think that more than Don, Dave and
myself would welcome that addition to the K3.

The elegance of the K3, a rig that rivals and even surpasses many of the
very high end radios, is diminished by the need to use an external 
keyer to
use a mode that many find invaluable. Removing the need to add 
another piece
of gear to the table top is not a minor inconvenience.  The small 
size of
the K3 seems to be an attempt to make it convenient for 
field/portable use
and to then require another piece of gear to make it work seems to 
diminish

its attempt to reach that goal.

Jack, AE6GC, KX1 1403, K3 1433


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 11:20 AM
To: wayne burdick
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector; DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

I have to say I'm hoping that by the time it matters to me, Elecraft
will have implemented Ultimatic, otherwise I can see myself buying a
WKUSB or K12-EXT and fitting it into the K3 somewhere.

I realise that your're busy Wayne and this is probably quite a way
down on your list, but please consider implementing Ultimatic, perhaps
in place of Iambic if you have space issues and can give people the
choice at f/w upgrade time?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Mathematics is the language with which God has written the universe.
-Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

On 6 Sep 2008, at 14:33, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Doug,

All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for
everyone, even though we may be the minority.  I need either a
single lever paddle with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and
a dual lever paddle to send decent CW.
The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up
generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the
'extraneous' extra element at the end!
Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and
out comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last
paddle activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or
more dots (dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes
sense to my mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.

I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because
the popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few
others encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the
original keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the
'50s and '60s.  It is just more natural to me than those alternating
dots and dashes.

Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle
with an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is
available in some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as
several others (but no internal keyers that I am aware of).


Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3
internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread Ken Kopp

FWIW, after 57 years of CW the K3's keyer meets my needs,
but a keyer that would compensate for arthritis would be nice 

My HexKey's a pleasure to use, too.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread Jim Cox

Wasted effort as far as I am concerned

 Jim K4JAF
- Original Message - 
From: "Jack Regan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?





Wayne (and Gary)

I hope you and Gary will reconsider adding Ultimatic/Single Lever Paddle
support to the K3 internal keyer.  I think that more than Don, Dave and
myself would welcome that addition to the K3.

The elegance of the K3, a rig that rivals and even surpasses many of the
very high end radios, is diminished by the need to use an external keyer 
to
use a mode that many find invaluable. Removing the need to add another 
piece

of gear to the table top is not a minor inconvenience.  The small size of
the K3 seems to be an attempt to make it convenient for field/portable use
and to then require another piece of gear to make it work seems to 
diminish

its attempt to reach that goal.

Jack, AE6GC, KX1 1403, K3 1433


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 11:20 AM
To: wayne burdick
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector; DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

I have to say I'm hoping that by the time it matters to me, Elecraft
will have implemented Ultimatic, otherwise I can see myself buying a
WKUSB or K12-EXT and fitting it into the K3 somewhere.

I realise that your're busy Wayne and this is probably quite a way
down on your list, but please consider implementing Ultimatic, perhaps
in place of Iambic if you have space issues and can give people the
choice at f/w upgrade time?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Mathematics is the language with which God has written the universe.
-Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

On 6 Sep 2008, at 14:33, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Doug,

All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for
everyone, even though we may be the minority.  I need either a
single lever paddle with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and
a dual lever paddle to send decent CW.
The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up
generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the
'extraneous' extra element at the end!
Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and
out comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last
paddle activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or
more dots (dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes
sense to my mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.

I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because
the popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few
others encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the
original keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the
'50s and '60s.  It is just more natural to me than those alternating
dots and dashes.

Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle
with an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is
available in some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as
several others (but no internal keyers that I am aware of).


Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3
internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread Kari Sillanmaki

Well said, Don!  I am one of those who can only send [half]decent
code with an Ultimatic-mode keyer. 

Here's another vote for including the Ultimatic keying mode
to the list of K3's  features.

So Wayne, please, please, please, implement this 
mode as soon as you have the time to do so.

I have my Hexkey #341 connected to my K3 #310
ready waiting for that Ultimate SW release...

73's de
Kari, oh2gqc


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for everyone, 
> even though we may be the minority.  I need either a single lever paddle 
> with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and a dual lever paddle to 
> send decent CW.
> The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up 
> generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the 
> 'extraneous' extra element at the end!
> Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and out 
> comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last paddle 
> activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or more dots 
> (dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes sense to my 
> mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.
> 
> I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because the 
> popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few others 
> encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the original 
> keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the '50s and '60s.  
> It is just more natural to me than those alternating dots and dashes.
> 
> Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle with 
> an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is available in 
> some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as several others (but 
> no internal keyers that I am aware of).
> 
> 
> Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3 
> internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
>> Hi all
>>
>> Before the K3, I used my computer (contesting) to generate the "stock"
>> cw.  I used a Kansas City Keyer for the hand keying, connected to the
>> rig using a Y connector for the CW in.  Worked well.
>>
>> With the K3, I still us a computer (contesting) to generate the
>> "stock" cw (CQ, 59905, TU, etc).  My paddle now goes directly into the
>> K3 (separate jack from the computer).
>>
>> When I first tried this, it was terrible.  I hated the keying and
>> couldn't get it to feel right.  Then (duh) I read the manual and
>> switched to iambic B and all was good with the world.  This is my
>> setup now.  I was/am more than happy to regain some space on my
>> desktop (physical, not computer).  For my needs, I see zero reason to
>> have external keyer above and beyond the computer needed for
>> contesting.  For casual Qs, I find the K3 to be VFB.
>>
>> de Doug KR2Q
>>   
>>
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-- 
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http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Keying---minority-opinion--tp882632p950621.html
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread Jack Regan


Wayne (and Gary)

I hope you and Gary will reconsider adding Ultimatic/Single Lever Paddle
support to the K3 internal keyer.  I think that more than Don, Dave and
myself would welcome that addition to the K3.

The elegance of the K3, a rig that rivals and even surpasses many of the
very high end radios, is diminished by the need to use an external keyer to
use a mode that many find invaluable. Removing the need to add another piece
of gear to the table top is not a minor inconvenience.  The small size of
the K3 seems to be an attempt to make it convenient for field/portable use
and to then require another piece of gear to make it work seems to diminish
its attempt to reach that goal.

Jack, AE6GC, KX1 1403, K3 1433


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 11:20 AM
To: wayne burdick
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector; DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

I have to say I'm hoping that by the time it matters to me, Elecraft  
will have implemented Ultimatic, otherwise I can see myself buying a  
WKUSB or K12-EXT and fitting it into the K3 somewhere.

I realise that your're busy Wayne and this is probably quite a way  
down on your list, but please consider implementing Ultimatic, perhaps  
in place of Iambic if you have space issues and can give people the  
choice at f/w upgrade time?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
Mathematics is the language with which God has written the universe.
-Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

On 6 Sep 2008, at 14:33, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Doug,
>
> All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for  
> everyone, even though we may be the minority.  I need either a  
> single lever paddle with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and  
> a dual lever paddle to send decent CW.
> The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up  
> generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the  
> 'extraneous' extra element at the end!
> Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and  
> out comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last  
> paddle activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or  
> more dots (dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes  
> sense to my mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.
>
> I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because  
> the popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few  
> others encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the  
> original keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the  
> '50s and '60s.  It is just more natural to me than those alternating  
> dots and dashes.
>
> Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle  
> with an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is  
> available in some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as  
> several others (but no internal keyers that I am aware of).
>
>
> Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3  
> internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I have to say I'm hoping that by the time it matters to me, Elecraft  
will have implemented Ultimatic, otherwise I can see myself buying a  
WKUSB or K12-EXT and fitting it into the K3 somewhere.


I realise that your're busy Wayne and this is probably quite a way  
down on your list, but please consider implementing Ultimatic, perhaps  
in place of Iambic if you have space issues and can give people the  
choice at f/w upgrade time?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Mathematics is the language with which God has written the universe.
-Galileo Galilei, physicist and astronomer (1564-1642)

On 6 Sep 2008, at 14:33, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Doug,

All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for  
everyone, even though we may be the minority.  I need either a  
single lever paddle with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and  
a dual lever paddle to send decent CW.
The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up  
generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the  
'extraneous' extra element at the end!
Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and  
out comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last  
paddle activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or  
more dots (dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes  
sense to my mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.


I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because  
the popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few  
others encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the  
original keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the  
'50s and '60s.  It is just more natural to me than those alternating  
dots and dashes.


Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle  
with an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is  
available in some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as  
several others (but no internal keyers that I am aware of).



Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3  
internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying - minority opinion?

2008-09-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Doug,

All is well that Iambic B meets your needs, but it is not for everyone, 
even though we may be the minority.  I need either a single lever paddle 
with an Iambic only keyer or Ultimatic mode and a dual lever paddle to 
send decent CW.
The problem with dual paddles is that I squeeze too often and end up 
generating garbage.  And that nasty Iambic B mode sends out the 
'extraneous' extra element at the end!
Ultimatic mode makes sense to my mind - I close the dash paddle and out 
comes dashes, close the dot paddle and out comes dots.  The last paddle 
activated gets priority.  It allows the insertion of one or more dots 
(dashes) in a string of dashes (dots) as well.  It makes sense to my 
mind - the paddle that I close last is what is produced.


I know there are not many users of this mode today, mainly because the 
popularity and convenience of the Curtis keyer chip and a few others 
encouraged the world to Iambic long ago.  Ultimatic was the original 
keyer mode and was the main thing available back in the '50s and '60s.  
It is just more natural to me than those alternating dots and dashes.


Those who must do 'slap' keying or must use a single lever paddle with 
an Iambic keyer might want to try Ultimatic mode - it is available in 
some of the K1EL keyers (the K12 is one) as well as several others (but 
no internal keyers that I am aware of).



Ultimatic users 'stand up' and request that it be added to the K3 
internal keyer!  Wayne did give a strong 'maybe' when I asked.


73,
Don W3FPR

DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

Hi all

Before the K3, I used my computer (contesting) to generate the "stock"
cw.  I used a Kansas City Keyer for the hand keying, connected to the
rig using a Y connector for the CW in.  Worked well.

With the K3, I still us a computer (contesting) to generate the
"stock" cw (CQ, 59905, TU, etc).  My paddle now goes directly into the
K3 (separate jack from the computer).

When I first tried this, it was terrible.  I hated the keying and
couldn't get it to feel right.  Then (duh) I read the manual and
switched to iambic B and all was good with the world.  This is my
setup now.  I was/am more than happy to regain some space on my
desktop (physical, not computer).  For my needs, I see zero reason to
have external keyer above and beyond the computer needed for
contesting.  For casual Qs, I find the K3 to be VFB.

de Doug KR2Q
  


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread W7TEA

I've been thinking about hooking my K-3 keyer up too.  I'm assuming none
of the internal keyer controls work of course but wish/hope the NEW QSK 
default ("reduces keying artifacts...") might still be effective.  As it
relates 
to the speed of muting/unmuting the rx, it seems possible.

Gary W7TEA



Roger Marrotte-2 wrote:
> 
> I use a Logikey K-3 external keyer because I find that it is just a little
> bit different than the internal keyer.  I'm used to it and seem to make
> less
> mistakes with it so that't what I use.  On the other hand when I had a K2
> I
> found that the internal keyer was not nearly as good (for me) as the
> external keyer.  With the K3 there is practically no difference at all (to
> me).  I need all the help I can get.  I'm old enough now that some days I
> have a little twitch in my hands.  I would have no problem using the K3
> internal keyer if my external keyer died or if I was away from my shack.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Roger, W1EM 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Cutter
> Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 1:11 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying
> 
> I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference
> to
> the internal keyer.
> 
> David
> G3UNA
> 
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> 
> 

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Dick Green WC1M
I got in the habit of using an external keyer before most rigs had internal
keyers. As others have mentioned, external keyers are more flexible and
quicker to set than internal keyers, so I continued to use an external
keyer.

When I first got into contesting in a serious way, I found that virtually
all rigs with internal keyers had a conflict between internal and external
keying. For example, on Yaesu rigs, the paddle and external keyer input use
the same jack. The expectation is that if you use the internal keyer, a
paddle will be connected to the jack. If you use an external keyer or PC,
the hot lead will be connected to one of the two paddle inputs (usually
tip), and the internal keyer will be turned off. You can parallel the paddle
and external keyer or PC, but you can't use them together. If you have the
internal keyer off, you can key with the external keyer or PC, but not with
the paddle. If you have the internal keyer on, you can key with the paddle,
but you get gibberish if you try to key from the external keyer or PC (which
results in a keyer keying a keyer.) In the heat of a contest it's just not
feasible to switch the internal keyer on and off when you want to use the
paddle.

Of course, the K3 has solved this problem by providing two separate inputs:
one for the paddle and one for the key. Now I don't have to turn off the
internal keyer to use an external keyer, and have the option of putting a
second paddle on the K3 (I haven't done so.)

There are other ways to solve the paddle problem in contests. Some contest
programs support paddle input through the LPT port. That's one viable
solution. The better solution is to use an external contest keyer. As others
have mentioned, PC-generated CW isn't reliable on many computers due to
Windows multitasking. An external keyer solves that problem, too. I use
Writelog's W5XD+ keyer, which has paddle inputs and generates CW in response
to commands from Writelog on the PC. It also does paddle, mic, PTT and audio
switching for SO2R contesting. The keyer can also be used without Writelog
running, though with limited functionality. There's a remote speed pot and
L/R switch for selecting the rig.

It's possible to build a switch to shift the paddle between the W5XD+ keyer
and the rig (or two rigs, or three rigs...), but for me it's not worth the
trouble. The W5XD+ keyer is adequate for my needs.

73, Dick WC1M

> -Original Message-
> From: David Cutter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 1:11 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying
> 
> I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in
> preference to
> the internal keyer.
> 
> David
> G3UNA
> 


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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Fred Jensen

Craig D. Smith wrote:

The internal K3 keyer works fine, but I also prefer external keyer(s) for
various reasons.  


OK, the other side weighs in.  Several years ago, I built a K1EL keyer 
[don't remember the model and not sure where the book is right now].  I 
included an interface to key the radio[s], and inputs from the computer, 
bug, hand key, and paddle.  Worked great with my K2 and TS-850.  I built 
the interface to key both positive and negative lines and actually used 
that once on someone else's rig on FD.  My only complaints were:


1.  K1EL keyer lets me send commands in Morse.  Sounds great ... not so 
much so when you are trying to change something in the middle of the 
contest.


2.  K1EL keyer gives me two choices for weight.  One is just a bit too 
"crisp" when I record my signal off the air, and the other is way too much.


I got my K3 and HexKey.  I now still have the external keyer plugged 
into the KEY jack so my computer can key the radio and my bug and hand 
key work.  I use the 4 memories on the external keyer for stuff that 
doesn't change much or at all ... my call, QRL?, general CQ, etc.  I 
have never used the K3 memories.  TR-Log handles the memories for 
contests.  External keyer weighting is still just a tad "crisp" for me 
on the K3.


HexKey runs the internal K3 keyer.  I can set the weight at whatever I 
want, I've got it just a bit less "crisp" than the external keyer and 
it's the paddle I always grab.  I can QRS instantly with the front panel 
knob if someone calls me slower than my CQ.  I always thought standard 
Benchers [with the spring] were really good.  Then I got the HexKey :-)


My K2 keyer very occasionally will seem to "stutter."  It's just 
discernible, and doesn't happen very often and isn't a problem, my 
sending isn't that well spaced anyway.  I think every now and then the 
CPU has to do something more important than CW.  Haven't noticed that at 
all on the K3 keyer.


Just another opinion, I prefer the internal K3 keyer even though I have 
an external one too.  YMMV


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread ni0c
I think your suggestion would work if I tied the two PTT ouputs (one from K3
and other from the microHam CW keyer) together, isolating them with diodes.
Another option would be to have a second set of paddles connected to the K3,
for barefoot operation of the K3.

I don't see any advantages to doing any of this-- at least for CW operation.
The PTT, lead-in and tail features are easily changed in the microHam Router
software, in DXBase, and N1MM.  I do understand that I would need to use the
internal K3 keyer if I wanted to take advantage of its ability to translate
Morse into Baudot.

73,
Chuck  NI0C

- Original Message - 
From: "David Cutter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "ni0c" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying


> Would it still work for you if you used your paddle directly into the K3
> paddle input and pc into the key input, then the programs would still key
> directly?  I'm wondering if you would want to change the PTT, lead-in and
> tail features on the fly, ie could these all be programmed in config?
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "ni0c" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 6:30 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying
>
>
> David, G3UNA, wrote:
> "I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference
> to
> the internal keyer."
>
>
> I use the microHam CW keyer with my K2 and K3
> for a couple of reasons.  The two logging programs
> that I use (DXBase 2007, and N1MM) work nicely
> with the K1EL WinKey chip in the microHam.
>
> The WinKey is very versatile, allowing one to key
> the rigs from the computer keyboard, paddles, an
> external numeric keypad, or icons provided by the
> logging program.  It also provides a programmable
> PTT signal with lead-in and tail delays for keying
> an amplifier.
>
> 73,
> Chuck Guenther  NI0C
>
> K2/10 s/n 5853  K3 s/n 1061
>
>
>
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Craig D. Smith

The internal K3 keyer works fine, but I also prefer external keyer(s) for
various reasons.  I have both a WinKey USB and a LogiKey K-5 wired in
parallel to the K3 key input.  Most of my operating is CW contesting, and
the WinKey generates great CW from the N1MM logging program.  I have the
LogiKey with its 6 memory buttons directly left of my keyboard, so it is
pretty much just like an extension of the PF keys to call up one of those
memories.  I keep the LogiKey set to a lower speed than what I am using on
the WinKey.  That way, it makes slow speed fills of exchange elements quite
convenient when signal levels/band conditions are difficult. I also program
in some lesser-used items that I don't want to dedicate a keyboard PF key
to. The downside of this, as Rich points out, is that you need to remember
to hit ESC sometimes to avoid doubling with yourself.  With my shack layout,
the K3 is a much longer reach and the K3 memory buttons are in a cluttered
panel area and in a vertical plane, making using them not very ergonomic -
especially at 2 AM in a darkened shack. 

... Craig  AC0DS


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Tom N0SS wrote:

1) More versatile CW generation features
2) More memories (in memory-type keyers)
3) More versatile CW memories (often)
4) Greater range of control

---

Gee, those are all the reasons I use a manual key (bug or hand pump). 

The only time my logging program has crashed is when I break the point on my
last pencil. 

The flexibility of both key operation and memories is unequalled, at least
until I finish the bottle of wine. 

But by then no electronic logic would bail me out either.

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Richard Ferch
G3UNA asked:

> Would it still work for you if you used your paddle directly into the K3 
> paddle input and pc into the key input, then the programs would still key 
> directly?  I'm wondering if you would want to change the PTT, lead-in and 
> tail features on the fly, ie could these all be programmed in config?

Running a standalone keyer in parallel with computer keying suffers from the
disadvantage that input from the two sources is OR'ed, i.e. touching the
paddle while the computer is sending CW results in unintelligible garble.

One of the selling features of the WinKeyer for me was its integration of
paddle and computer input. When the keyer is sending computer-generated CW,
a touch of the paddle automatically interrupts computer-sent code and clears
the input buffer. Thus, if you hit the wrong macro button in your software,
you can start sending with the paddle instead and the PC-generated CW will
stop instantly. This eliminates the need to first hit the ESC key on the
computer and then switch to the paddle (or to PC keyboard CW). In fact, even
if what I want to do is stop the computer output and then press the correct
macro button on the keyboard, just touching the dit paddle still seems to be
the easiest way for me to interrupt the output stream.

Perhaps the K3 firmware will do this too, i.e. give priority to the paddle
input over any of the other input sources: DTR on the serial interface, the
straight key jack (which is often used for computer keying), or CW generated
using the KY software command. I can't tell yet - I haven't found anything
about this in the firmware release notes, and my own K3 arrived about two
hours ago and is still just a collection of parts.

Another feature of the WinKeyer has already been mentioned in this thread:
the ability to configure it to add a constant keying compensation of a few
msec to every element.

Oh yes: will the K3's internal keyer autospace CW elements? That's a useful
feature of many external keyers.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread GW0ETF


David Cutter wrote:
> 
> Would it still work for you if you used your paddle directly into the K3 
> paddle input and pc into the key input, then the programs would still key 
> directly?  I'm wondering if you would want to change the PTT, lead-in and 
> tail features on the fly, ie could these all be programmed in config?
> 
> David
> G3UNA
> 
> 

Hi David,

Generating cw directly from a (Windoze..?) pc is usually bad news. Windows
always has priority and will interrupt cw keying when it needs to do
something else; the result can be awful cw which can be embarrassing in a
contest. 

Winkey takes the data from the pc as ascii (I think..) and generates it's
own perfectly timed characters independantly of the computer with which to
key the radio. A Microham keyer uses Winkey which also accepts paddle input
- this means that the cw sent from your pc (eg from N1MM) will always be at
the same speed and setup as that sent from the paddles, one speed knob
controls both. 

I tend to use my Microham cw keyer all the time but admit the keyer in the
K3 is excellent.

73, Stewart GW0ETF (K3 145)
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Keying-tp841765p841970.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Roger Marrotte
I use a Logikey K-3 external keyer because I find that it is just a little
bit different than the internal keyer.  I'm used to it and seem to make less
mistakes with it so that't what I use.  On the other hand when I had a K2 I
found that the internal keyer was not nearly as good (for me) as the
external keyer.  With the K3 there is practically no difference at all (to
me).  I need all the help I can get.  I'm old enough now that some days I
have a little twitch in my hands.  I would have no problem using the K3
internal keyer if my external keyer died or if I was away from my shack.

73,

Roger, W1EM 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Cutter
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 1:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference to
the internal keyer.

David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi David:

1) More versatile CW generation features
2) More memories (in memory-type keyers)
3) More versatile CW memories (often)
4) Greater range of control

These are my main reasons for using my Idiom Press CMOS Super
Keyer (II/III/or IV) in deference to the K3's internal keyer.

Cheers,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 12:11 09/05/2008, David Cutter wrote:
I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in 
preference to the internal keyer.


David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread David Cutter
Would it still work for you if you used your paddle directly into the K3 
paddle input and pc into the key input, then the programs would still key 
directly?  I'm wondering if you would want to change the PTT, lead-in and 
tail features on the fly, ie could these all be programmed in config?


David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "ni0c" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 6:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying


David, G3UNA, wrote:
"I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference 
to

the internal keyer."


I use the microHam CW keyer with my K2 and K3
for a couple of reasons.  The two logging programs
that I use (DXBase 2007, and N1MM) work nicely
with the K1EL WinKey chip in the microHam.

The WinKey is very versatile, allowing one to key
the rigs from the computer keyboard, paddles, an
external numeric keypad, or icons provided by the
logging program.  It also provides a programmable
PTT signal with lead-in and tail delays for keying
an amplifier.

73,
Chuck Guenther  NI0C

K2/10 s/n 5853  K3 s/n 1061



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Brendan Minish
on Fri, 2008-09-05 at 18:11 +0100, David Cutter wrote:
> I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference to 
> the internal keyer.

I use a logikey K5 keyer 

reasons 
1/ more memories in 3 banks (6 in each bank, 3 banks in total )
2/ user definable speed range, keying type, weight etc 
3/ Macros, ability to edit memories etc.  
4/ frees up the 4 memory buttons on the k3 to be user defined shortcuts 
5/ serial # facilities for casual contesting 

lastly I use a logikey CMOS4 in my mobile setup, the keyer 'feel' is
identical between both setups 

For contesting I use a Winkey USB keyer, it generates nicer CW than
serial port keying and makes doing hand fills etc easy. for hand keying
it's not a patch on the logikey keyers  

Personally I think that elecraft aought to do a licence deal with the
logikey people so that the logikey CMOS4 feature set could be done using
the internal keyer. logikey's user interface o nthe CMOS4 requires 4
buttons and a speed pot. I would happily pay extra to have the CMOS 4
feature-set internal to the K3 


73
Brendan EI6IZ 

-- 
Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try
to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly
untrained, unqualified, expendable professional.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread Alexandr Kobranov


Hi David,
in my case I am using external keyer (ETM-8) having

- more memories
- better programming possibilities (loops, nested loops, programable 
changes of speed in message, incremental numbering,...)
- no need to touch FP for memory start/stop (keyer has own paddle so 
paddle and buttons are close operate without hand moving from key)


not using keying from PC (yet)

73!
Lexa, ok1dst



David Cutter napsal(a):
I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in 
preference to the internal keyer.


David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread David Cutter
I would be interested to know why folks use external keyers in preference to 
the internal keyer.


David
G3UNA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread P.B. Christensen

> "Just done a quick 'scope check here using my Microham cw keyer and the
results are 'inconclusive'. In qsk the space is actually slightly less if
measured from the end of the fall to the start of the rise, but slightly
more if the dit is measured across the 'top' ignoring the rise/fall time. I
forgot to check using the internal keyer but this seems pretty good to me. 
Having said all that I see that I have configured my Winkeyer with 3ms
'keying compensation' which was done on the basis of it sounding a little
choppy previously..."

I modified my microHam CW Keyer to produce a buffered +5 VDC pulse for
triggering a dual-trace scope.  The most recent K3 firmware shows that the
CW envelope rises ~ 13 ms after external contact closure.  And more to the
point, the RF envelope matches the duration of the external key closure when
measuring from the beginning of the envelope rise to the trailing edge. 
This closely matches other radios, including many Ten Tec models, and
precisely matches the envelope of my Icom 7700 and 7800 (with latest
firmware).

It's interesting that you use 3 ms of added external compensation as that is
my value used on all three transceivers since their envelopes happen to
perfectly match in duration.  My personal preference would be to have all
manufacturers match the envelope time to the contact closure referenced at
the time the rise ramp completes, to the beginning of where the envelope
begins to fall.  If you think about it, the combined rise/fall comprises a
full 10 ms in the K3.   For that reason, compensation of 3-5 ms sounds less
choppy to the ear and more closely matches that of the perfect 1:3 ratio
generated by an electronic keyer.  Since the required compensation is
constant as a function of keying speed, the envelope only needs to be "pulse
stretched" to one value, regardless of key speed.

Psul, W9AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-05 Thread GW0ETF


Barry Simpson wrote:
> 
> Has anyone else noticed that there is a substantial difference in the mark
> space ratio of the keying dependent on whether you operate QSK/semi break
> in
> compared with manual transmit, eg push the transmit button on the front
> panel or use a foot switch to enter transmit.
> 
>  
> 73  
> 
> Barry  VK2BJ
> 
> 

Barry,

Character shortening in QSK seems to be common in many radios but is
normally a function of qsk v semi break-in as well as manual ptt. Most good
external keyers offer 'keying compensation' in msecs to offset this; my
FT990 needed as much as 8ms extra on the characters to give a 1:1 dit ratio
in qsk v semi break-in.

Just done a quick 'scope check here using my Microham cw keyer and the
results are 'inconclusive'. In qsk the space is actually slightly less if
measured from the end of the fall to the start of the rise, but slightly
more if the dit is measured across the 'top' ignoring the rise/fall time. I
forgot to check using the internal keyer but this seems pretty good to me.

Having said all that I see that I have configured my Winkeyer with 3ms
'keying compensation' which was done on the basis of it sounding a little
choppy previously.

73,

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF (K3 145)
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-04 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Not on my K3 (1594) using internal keyer and FW 02.34
Exactly same in QSK, semi BK or PTT.

73 gl Jim SM2EKM

Bill W5WVO wrote:

By George, you're right! No, I never noticed it, but now that you
point it out and I'm testing it -- sure enough. The difference is
detectable to the ear, at 25 WPM anyway. A 'scope would tell you
exactly what the difference is. Should be an easy bug to track
down and fix (he said glibly, knowing nothing). :-)

Put it on the list!

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: "Barry Simpson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Elecraft'" 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:46 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying



Has anyone else noticed that there is a substantial difference

in the mark

space ratio of the keying dependent on whether you operate

QSK/semi break in

compared with manual transmit, eg push the transmit button on

the front

panel or use a foot switch to enter transmit.



The QSK/semi break in are similar but they are much lighter than

in the

constant transmit mode.



I did notice when I first got the K3 that the QSK/semi break in

was light

and I had to compensate for that in my keyer. Likewise the built

in keyer

seems to have a default setting to cater for the light keying.

No great

drama - just an observation.



Just for general information I have just wired up my K3 to my

FL7000 linear

for auto band change as per the directions from W4TV back on 23

May. It

works great but the tx inhibit is unusable in other than QSK.

However I

don't need it for proper operation and have turned it back off

in the Config

setting.



73



Barry  VK2BJ




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying

2008-09-04 Thread Bill W5WVO
By George, you're right! No, I never noticed it, but now that you
point it out and I'm testing it -- sure enough. The difference is
detectable to the ear, at 25 WPM anyway. A 'scope would tell you
exactly what the difference is. Should be an easy bug to track
down and fix (he said glibly, knowing nothing). :-)

Put it on the list!

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: "Barry Simpson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Elecraft'" 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:46 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Keying


> Has anyone else noticed that there is a substantial difference
in the mark
> space ratio of the keying dependent on whether you operate
QSK/semi break in
> compared with manual transmit, eg push the transmit button on
the front
> panel or use a foot switch to enter transmit.
>
>
>
> The QSK/semi break in are similar but they are much lighter than
in the
> constant transmit mode.
>
>
>
> I did notice when I first got the K3 that the QSK/semi break in
was light
> and I had to compensate for that in my keyer. Likewise the built
in keyer
> seems to have a default setting to cater for the light keying.
No great
> drama - just an observation.
>
>
>
> Just for general information I have just wired up my K3 to my
FL7000 linear
> for auto band change as per the directions from W4TV back on 23
May. It
> works great but the tx inhibit is unusable in other than QSK.
However I
> don't need it for proper operation and have turned it back off
in the Config
> setting.
>
>
>
> 73
>
>
>
> Barry  VK2BJ
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying and NR No Effect Here

2008-08-15 Thread Chris Page
Thanks Stewart.

I loaded the latest firmware this morning (I was using 2.20) but 
before I did that, I tried monitoring my transmitted signal on 
another receiver, on the same 80m frequency that I did the test with 
my UK friend yesterday morning.  I cannot tell any difference to the 
keying between having the NR switched in and switched out.

After loading 2.23, my signal sounded exactly the same on my other  
receiver and a report from a European station on 20m said the keying 
was "perfect" and there was no sign of any clicks.

I now intend leaving well alone and am putting the experience down to 
one of the mysteries of life!

73 de Chris, G4BUE

On 15 Aug 2008 at 2:04, GW0ETF wrote:

> 
> 
> Don Ehrlich wrote:
> > 
> > I just keyed my K3 with and without NR (all settings) while
> looking at the 
> > keying waveform.  I used both the internal keyer and an external
> computer 
> > interface for keying and could not see any effect on the 5 mS rise
> and
> > fall 
> > times related to NR settings or with NR on or off.
> > 
> > Don K7FJ
> > K3 #195  latest Beta
> > 
> > 
> 
> I just did the same as Don and like him found absolutely no
> difference to
> the waveform on the scope with or without NR at all settings,
> internal or
> external keying.
> 
> I could however get the keying to totally loose it by switching in
> the NR
> while actually sending - most but not every time it would change to
> a sort
> of high frequency, highly overdriven chopped AM sine wave; not
> something
> that could be mistaken for cw keying, hard or not. Pressing buttons
> like NR
> while actually sending is presumably not in the script and would I
> assume
> come under the title of 'unpredictable'.
> 
> Running the latest betaware, dsp tables etc and also the 5ms keying
> hardware
> mod.
> 
> Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF (K3 145)
> -- 
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Keying-and-NR-tp724692p725906.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> 
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> 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying and NR No Effect Here

2008-08-15 Thread GW0ETF


Don Ehrlich wrote:
> 
> I just keyed my K3 with and without NR (all settings) while looking at the 
> keying waveform.  I used both the internal keyer and an external computer 
> interface for keying and could not see any effect on the 5 mS rise and
> fall 
> times related to NR settings or with NR on or off.
> 
> Don K7FJ
> K3 #195  latest Beta
> 
> 

I just did the same as Don and like him found absolutely no difference to
the waveform on the scope with or without NR at all settings, internal or
external keying.

I could however get the keying to totally loose it by switching in the NR
while actually sending - most but not every time it would change to a sort
of high frequency, highly overdriven chopped AM sine wave; not something
that could be mistaken for cw keying, hard or not. Pressing buttons like NR
while actually sending is presumably not in the script and would I assume
come under the title of 'unpredictable'.

Running the latest betaware, dsp tables etc and also the 5ms keying hardware
mod.

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF (K3 145)
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Keying-and-NR-tp724692p725906.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Keying software improvement suggestion (was: Logging programs and internal keyer)

2008-05-28 Thread Carl Clawson

Thanks again to all who responded on- and off-line to this subject.

Two things I learned here: There are external keyers that provide superb
support for high performance contest software, but also, great software can
indeed produce great CW over serial or parallel ports without the extra
hardware. The lower-performing programs don’t because they use loops,
timers, or other task-dependent features to send the CW.

One of my objectives is to minimize the number of cables and boxes on my
desktop. If it could be made to work right, DTR/CTS keying would do the job.
Here are the problems, though. First, it keys your radio when the computer
reboots. This is a deal breaker for me. I’m too scatterbrained to remember
to disable it when I’m not using it. Second, there’s no feedback from the
radio to the software. When you touch a paddle or key, you want the software
to stop sending. So two improvements are needed to make this work great: 1.
An RS232 command to enable/disable DTR keying so that it’s enabled only when
your contest program is running. 2. An auto-info response that sends an
event to the computer when a key or paddle is touched. Then if we can get
the software authors to implement it, and keep the internal keyer at the
same speed as the software, I think this would work very neatly. Plug your
key into the rig, the rig into the computer, and off you go.

Thanks for listening!
Carl WS7L
K3 #486
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/-K3--Logging-programs-and-internal-keyer-tp17451428p17527515.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3--Keying suddenly stopped

2008-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Yes, that was it, Vic.
Apparently when I toggled the mode switch between ssb and cw
I must have also dropped the VOX selection.
I think this is an unfortunate control arrangement.  I'd rather see a
menu selection for this if it is necessary and get it off the button
where it can be changed by accident.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Reflector Elecraft" 
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3--Keying suddenly stopped


> Robert Tellefsen wrote:
> > I was working the 7th District QSO Party, and doing fairly well
> > at 5w on both cw and ssb.  Then, just after I logged my 103rd QSO,
> > the keying stopped.
> >
> > Neither the paddles nor the computer coming through the key jack
> > will cause a signal to go out in cw mode.  Keying the paddles does
> > give cw sidetone and the red TX light over the headset jack lights
in
> > time to the keying.  I've cycled through the TEST mode several
times,
> > but to no effect.
> >
> > Holding the XMIT/TUNE button does cause a carrier at normal power.
> > Using
> > either VOX or PTT on ssb generates a normal signal
>
> Remember that VOX has to be ON in CW mode if you want closing the
key to
> put you into transmit mode.
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] K3--Keying suddenly stopped

2008-05-03 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Good point, Vic.
Didn't check that, but I remember seeing it mentioned
somewhere before.
I'll check that in the morning.  It would certainly go along
with my idea that I just pushed something in the wrong way :-)
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Reflector Elecraft" 
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3--Keying suddenly stopped


> Robert Tellefsen wrote:
> > I was working the 7th District QSO Party, and doing fairly well
> > at 5w on both cw and ssb.  Then, just after I logged my 103rd QSO,
> > the keying stopped.
> >
> > Neither the paddles nor the computer coming through the key jack
> > will cause a signal to go out in cw mode.  Keying the paddles does
> > give cw sidetone and the red TX light over the headset jack lights
in
> > time to the keying.  I've cycled through the TEST mode several
times,
> > but to no effect.
> >
> > Holding the XMIT/TUNE button does cause a carrier at normal power.
> > Using
> > either VOX or PTT on ssb generates a normal signal
>
> Remember that VOX has to be ON in CW mode if you want closing the
key to
> put you into transmit mode.
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] K3--Keying suddenly stopped

2008-05-03 Thread Vic K2VCO

Robert Tellefsen wrote:

I was working the 7th District QSO Party, and doing fairly well
at 5w on both cw and ssb.  Then, just after I logged my 103rd QSO,
the keying stopped.

Neither the paddles nor the computer coming through the key jack
will cause a signal to go out in cw mode.  Keying the paddles does
give cw sidetone and the red TX light over the headset jack lights in
time to the keying.  I've cycled through the TEST mode several times,
but to no effect.

Holding the XMIT/TUNE button does cause a carrier at normal power.
Using
either VOX or PTT on ssb generates a normal signal


Remember that VOX has to be ON in CW mode if you want closing the key to 
put you into transmit mode.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - keying an amp

2007-10-11 Thread Dave G4AON

Stuart

My K2 keys my Acom 1000 just fine. Full QSK too.

73 Dave, G4AON
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