Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread LarryT

Hi Tom,
I looked at the IP in my WSM and there's nothing called a Rack Damper Bolt. 
Might MB use different terminology from what the official term is? (which 
we of course, use properly)


Thanks!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper 
Bolt,if he has one?




Thanks Tom,
Now that I have a general idea I csan look in the WSM to find it exactly 
read about it - and what it does.

moochs grassyass.  (I figger its time for me to learn to speak a little
Spanish, obviously very little)
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



It's on the back of the pump, on the flat surface, towards the bottom
driver
side corner. Look straight down between the oil filter housing  the back
of
the pomp - it's the only thing sticking out down there.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if
he has one?

You're asking the wrong person. I had to call my Indy to locate it on  my
300SD (it's on the very back...I think the only thing there, if I
remember,
that looks like a bolt going straight into the back of the IP  and a
locking
nut). 12mm and 14mm - bolt and nut respectively.

 This is a question for Marshall or some other guru.

LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Hi Chris,
Where is the Rack Damper Bolt located?  Do I have one on my 91 300D 2.5T?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann

To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not
ambienttemp)iscold



Got to this yesterday. It (rack damper bolt)  was all the way in.  I
turned it out, with engine running and thingschanged. Went all  the
way back in and nothing - it's only when adjusting out that things
change



and you can adjust it. Very interesting. SO, I adjusted out till  the
engine stopped shaking (although my air filter is shaking like  CRAZY 
AND

ALL 3 bushings are new AND still intact).

 So, the car starts without having to push the pedal (not as perfectly
as


before), no loping AND there USED to be a vibration (I thought 
alignment
since tires were just balanced) around 75-80 mph. THAT IS  ENTIRELY 
GONE.
Aside from terrible filter shaking at idle (which is  only reading 550 
on

the tach, used to be 750), the engine runs MUCH  more smoothly.

 NOW: Should I turn the rack damper bolt out even further to reduce the
filter shaking and will that bring my idle back up?

 Thanks,

 Chris



Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:  In.  Even with the new
screw, it still has to be adjusted sometimes.

[SNIP]


___
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2006 GSD, Anke
-1985 300SD, 217K, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K, little blue klatter box
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

-
Sponsored Link

  Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - $150,000 loan for $579 a month.
Intro-*Terms
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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For new parts see official list sponsor: 

Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread ernest breakfield
Marshall,

this document specifies '81-'84; was there something different about '85s, 
or
does this document pre-date '85s?


cheers!
e


Marshall Booth wrote:

 ned kleinhenz wrote:
  Situation:
  Son's '85 300D glow plug light does not come on.
  Outside temp is below 40F and car will not start.
 
  The 80A fuse in the GP control box is OK.
  I suspect it needs new glow plugs.  But please help confirm my diagnosis is
  probably correct.
 
  Two questions:
 
  If my memory serves me correctly -
  If the GP light does not come on, the following are the potential causes by
  priority:
  1. Blown fuse.
  2. At least one bad glow plug
  3. GP control system is faulty
  4. GP light is burned out.
 
  Is this correct?
 
  I expect this car probably has the newer parallel glow plug configuration,
  so I'm not sure how the controller behaves.
  Other question - if the glow plug light does not come on, does that mean the
  glow plug circuit is not activating?
  In other words, will one or more bad glow plugs prevent the entire glow plug
  cycle from happening?

 This attachment is appropriate for ALL of the 617.95 engines.

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   
 Name: glow8184s.pdf
glow8184s.pdfType: Acrobat (application/pdf)
 Encoding: base64

   
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

85 would be the same, oh yea, Im not marshall though.

ernest breakfield wrote:


Marshall,

this document specifies '81-'84; was there something different about '85s, 
or
does this document pre-date '85s?


cheers!
e



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread John M McIntosh

It's called a PIN
A742674

item 257 on the part sheet,
617.952 engine, 07 injection pump, 045 injection pump.
It doesn't look like the non-turbo injection pumps had one?

BTW (shamless plug) I've a used one here for oh say $50 usa.

On 15-Nov-06, at 4:10 PM, LarryT wrote:


Hi Tom,
I looked at the IP in my WSM and there's nothing called a Rack  
Damper Bolt.
Might MB use different terminology from what the official term  
is? (which

we of course, use properly)

Thanks!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack  
Damper

Bolt,if he has one?



Thanks Tom,
Now that I have a general idea I csan look in the WSM to find it  
exactly 

read about it - and what it does.

moochs grassyass.  (I figger its time for me to learn to speak a  
little

Spanish, obviously very little)
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack  
Damper

Bolt,if he has one?


It's on the back of the pump, on the flat surface, towards the  
bottom

driver
side corner. Look straight down between the oil filter housing   
the back

of
the pomp - it's the only thing sticking out down there.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if
he has one?

You're asking the wrong person. I had to call my Indy to locate  
it on  my

300SD (it's on the very back...I think the only thing there, if I
remember,
that looks like a bolt going straight into the back of the IP  and a
locking
nut). 12mm and 14mm - bolt and nut respectively.

 This is a question for Marshall or some other guru.

LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Hi Chris,
Where is the Rack Damper Bolt located?  Do I have one on my 91  
300D 2.5T?


Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Christopher McCann
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not
ambienttemp)iscold


Got to this yesterday. It (rack damper bolt)  was all the way  
in.  I
turned it out, with engine running and thingschanged. Went  
all  the

way back in and nothing - it's only when adjusting out that things
change


and you can adjust it. Very interesting. SO, I adjusted out  
till  the
engine stopped shaking (although my air filter is shaking like   
CRAZY

AND
ALL 3 bushings are new AND still intact).

 So, the car starts without having to push the pedal (not as  
perfectly

as



before), no loping AND there USED to be a vibration (I thought
alignment
since tires were just balanced) around 75-80 mph. THAT IS  ENTIRELY
GONE.
Aside from terrible filter shaking at idle (which is  only  
reading 550

on
the tach, used to be 750), the engine runs MUCH  more smoothly.

 NOW: Should I turn the rack damper bolt out even further to  
reduce the

filter shaking and will that bring my idle back up?

 Thanks,

 Chris



Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:  In.  Even with the new
screw, it still has to be adjusted sometimes.

[SNIP]


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2006 GSD, Anke
-1985 300SD, 217K, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K, little blue klatter box
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, One Banger

-
Sponsored Link

  Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - $150,000 loan for $579 a month.
Intro-*Terms
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official 

[MBZ] cheap 87 300D

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-1987-Mercedes-Benz-300d-turbo-diesel-fl-car-no-reser_W0QQitemZ190052289569QQihZ009QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] lots of crack

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-300SD-Turbo-SHOWROOM-QUALITY-COLLECTOR-1983-Mercedes-300SD-Turbo_W0QQitemZ230052230141QQihZ013QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
DVD/burner drive on toshiba laptop is bad, where is the best place 
online to get a replacement?  Probably ebay?  Doesnt have to be a 
toshiba one does it?  Assume any would work?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread David Brodbeck
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 DVD/burner drive on toshiba laptop is bad, where is the best place 
 online to get a replacement?  Probably ebay?  Doesnt have to be a 
 toshiba one does it?  Assume any would work?
   

Is this one of those slide-in, removable ones? You're probably going to
have to get a Toshiba one meant for the same model.  There's no
standardization as to the size and shape of those.

If there's a computer recycler or surplus outlet near you, they often
have big piles of laptop drives.  Or try these guys: http://www.repc.com/



Re: [MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea its one of those slide in removable kind.  In fact I need to pull it 
and see what it is exactly.  I do believe its actually a Sony drive.


David Brodbeck wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

DVD/burner drive on toshiba laptop is bad, where is the best place 
online to get a replacement?  Probably ebay?  Doesnt have to be a 
toshiba one does it?  Assume any would work?
 



Is this one of those slide-in, removable ones? You're probably going to
have to get a Toshiba one meant for the same model.  There's no
standardization as to the size and shape of those.

If there's a computer recycler or surplus outlet near you, they often
have big piles of laptop drives.  Or try these guys: http://www.repc.com/

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread Peter Frederick
Most of those are standard (Mac Wallstreets use a different interface) 
-- you may have to change the plastic body or door, but the guts are 
all the same.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread LarryT

Thanks John,
   I'll look thru my WSM tomorrow to see if anything looks familiar.   Nice 
little shameless plug - but I need to *find* my Rack Bolt -- replacing it 
with a used one may be just a *tad* premature.

;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper 
Bolt,if he has one?




It's called a PIN
A742674

item 257 on the part sheet,
617.952 engine, 07 injection pump, 045 injection pump.
It doesn't look like the non-turbo injection pumps had one?

BTW (shamless plug) I've a used one here for oh say $50 usa.

On 15-Nov-06, at 4:10 PM, LarryT wrote:


Hi Tom,
I looked at the IP in my WSM and there's nothing called a Rack
Damper Bolt.
Might MB use different terminology from what the official term
is? (which
we of course, use properly)

Thanks!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



Thanks Tom,
Now that I have a general idea I csan look in the WSM to find it
exactly 
read about it - and what it does.

moochs grassyass.  (I figger its time for me to learn to speak a
little
Spanish, obviously very little)
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



It's on the back of the pump, on the flat surface, towards the
bottom
driver
side corner. Look straight down between the oil filter housing 
the back
of
the pomp - it's the only thing sticking out down there.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if
he has one?

You're asking the wrong person. I had to call my Indy to locate
it on  my
300SD (it's on the very back...I think the only thing there, if I
remember,
that looks like a bolt going straight into the back of the IP  and a
locking
nut). 12mm and 14mm - bolt and nut respectively.

 This is a question for Marshall or some other guru.

LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Hi Chris,
Where is the Rack Damper Bolt located?  Do I have one on my 91
300D 2.5T?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Christopher McCann
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not
ambienttemp)iscold



Got to this yesterday. It (rack damper bolt)  was all the way
in.  I
turned it out, with engine running and thingschanged. Went
all  the
way back in and nothing - it's only when adjusting out that things
change



and you can adjust it. Very interesting. SO, I adjusted out
till  the
engine stopped shaking (although my air filter is shaking like
CRAZY
AND
ALL 3 bushings are new AND still intact).

 So, the car starts without having to push the pedal (not as
perfectly
as



before), no loping AND there USED to be a vibration (I thought
alignment
since tires were just balanced) around 75-80 mph. THAT IS  ENTIRELY
GONE.
Aside from terrible filter shaking at idle (which is  only
reading 550
on
the tach, used to be 750), the engine runs MUCH  more smoothly.

 NOW: Should I turn the rack damper bolt out even further to
reduce the
filter shaking and will that bring my idle back up?

 Thanks,

 Chris



Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:  In.  Even with the new
screw, it still has to 

Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Replacing the rack damper with a used one is not the answer. Mercedes
designed a replacement with higher spring tension to help prevent hunting.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:32 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if he has one?

Thanks John,
I'll look thru my WSM tomorrow to see if anything looks familiar.   Nice

little shameless plug - but I need to *find* my Rack Bolt -- replacing it 
with a used one may be just a *tad* premature.
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper 
Bolt,if he has one?


 It's called a PIN
 A742674

 item 257 on the part sheet,
 617.952 engine, 07 injection pump, 045 injection pump.
 It doesn't look like the non-turbo injection pumps had one?

 BTW (shamless plug) I've a used one here for oh say $50 usa.

 On 15-Nov-06, at 4:10 PM, LarryT wrote:

 Hi Tom,
 I looked at the IP in my WSM and there's nothing called a Rack
 Damper Bolt.
 Might MB use different terminology from what the official term
 is? (which
 we of course, use properly)

 Thanks!

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
 Damper
 Bolt,if he has one?


 Thanks Tom,
 Now that I have a general idea I csan look in the WSM to find it
 exactly 
 read about it - and what it does.

 moochs grassyass.  (I figger its time for me to learn to speak a
 little
 Spanish, obviously very little)
 ;-)

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:51 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
 Damper
 Bolt,if he has one?


 It's on the back of the pump, on the flat surface, towards the
 bottom
 driver
 side corner. Look straight down between the oil filter housing 
 the back
 of
 the pomp - it's the only thing sticking out down there.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
 Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:10 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
 Bolt,if
 he has one?

 You're asking the wrong person. I had to call my Indy to locate
 it on  my
 300SD (it's on the very back...I think the only thing there, if I
 remember,
 that looks like a bolt going straight into the back of the IP  and a
 locking
 nut). 12mm and 14mm - bolt and nut respectively.

  This is a question for Marshall or some other guru.

 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Hi Chris,
 Where is the Rack Damper Bolt located?  Do I have one on my 91
 300D 2.5T?

 Thx -

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Christopher McCann
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 2:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] low idle and pulsating idle when engine (not
 ambienttemp)iscold


 Got to this yesterday. It (rack damper bolt)  was all the way
 in.  I
 turned it out, with engine running and thingschanged. Went
 all  the
 way back in and nothing - it's only when adjusting out that things
 change

 and you can adjust it. Very interesting. SO, I adjusted out
 till  the
 engine stopped shaking (although my air filter is shaking like
 CRAZY
 AND
 ALL 3 bushings are new AND still intact).

  So, 

[MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Zeitgeist

These are pretty cool, eh?

http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/

--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
I had one of those too - a 1977, and a 1982, and a 1983, and a 1984...

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 3:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D

Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one.

Randy

-Original Message-

Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D  240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave



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Re: [MBZ] Used oops pre-owned computer bits

2006-11-16 Thread RELNGSON
,If there's a computer recycler or surplus outlet near you, they often
have big piles of laptop drives.  Or try these guys: http://www.repc.com/

Good idea. I picked up a 15 gig hard drive last month from RePC for an IMac 
700 I fell heir to for a paltry twenty bucks.

RLE/Seattle


Re: [MBZ] Used oops pre-owned computer bits

2006-11-16 Thread David Brodbeck
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Good idea. I picked up a 15 gig hard drive last month from RePC for an IMac 
 700 I fell heir to for a paltry twenty bucks.

RePC and Boeing Surplus are two of the best things about living in the
Seattle area. ;)



Re: [MBZ] Used oops pre-owned computer bits

2006-11-16 Thread Zeitgeist

Boeing Surplus, rocks

On 11/15/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



RePC and Boeing Surplus are two of the best things about living in the
Seattle area. ;)



--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Luther
Good thing Bambi didn't tangle with the SDL.Bambi would have lost that 
battle.


On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 17:14:24 -0600, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 VIN 2B4GP44391R261802

 Yeah, it is a dodge, the stepson of MB,  Bambi bit the dodge van, so I am
 looking for a replacement.

 Dodge 0 Bambi totalled the van and got away.
 Bambi 1

 Thanks!




 Loren Faeth
 86 SDL et al




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car



Re: [MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
thanks, took the one out of the laptop and the plastic frame deal looks 
easy to remove.


Peter Frederick wrote:
Most of those are standard (Mac Wallstreets use a different interface) 
-- you may have to change the plastic body or door, but the guts are 
all the same.


Peter


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Loren Faeth
Yep,   I dare any critter to take on the SDL.  Although the Kamikaze 
pheasant did take out a headlight in a daring nighttime attack.


So far we have taken 6 deer out of 120 acres, and not made a dent in the 
population.  The hunters can go out and find deer anytime.  I calculated 
there are about 3000 per square mile.  Meanwhile the Wizards at the state 
DNR are trying to get the population UP to 15 per square mile.  They are 
a little disconnected from reality!


At 09:41 PM 11/15/2006, you wrote:
Good thing Bambi didn't tangle with the SDL.Bambi would have lost that 
battle.



On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 17:14:24 -0600, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:


 VIN 2B4GP44391R261802

 Yeah, it is a dodge, the stepson of MB,  Bambi bit the dodge van, so I am
 looking for a replacement.

 Dodge 0 Bambi totalled the van and got away.
 Bambi 1

 Thanks!




 Loren Faeth
 86 SDL et al




--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car

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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
Good thing Bambi didn't tangle with the SDL.Bambi would have lost 
that battle.


No, deer never lose.  Or maybe more accurately, you never win.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

These are pretty cool, eh?

http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/


Yes indeedy.  Wonder which item is there to provide the front/rear
slip?  It wasn't completely obvious to me, but no doubt it has to
be there.

The page implied that there were 300D/300TD cars available with
4-matic.  If there were (here in the US), there'd be at least two
of them on our hillside alone.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 220D Oil Consumption

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

One question I have, now that the vacuum pump is open. Should the two
check valves be seated the same way? Currently they are not:


To the diaphragm chamber one valve needs to face one way and the
other the other.  That's what ensures the air moves in one direction
as it's pumped, if it were wrong you would get no vacuum at all.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
population.  The hunters can go out and find deer anytime.  I 
calculated
there are about 3000 per square mile.  Meanwhile the Wizards at the 
state

DNR are trying to get the population UP to 15 per square mile.


They include areas like lakes.  Oceans...

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

2006-11-16 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:11:12 -0600 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service
 manual  show them the text.

What section?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 07:29:38 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 After that round, you _will_ know what is wrong, except in a
 small percentage of cases where, for example, a GP is not
 entirely bad and is drawing out-of-spec current.  But that
 won't keep it from starting, usually.  With the addition of
 a high-current DC ammeter (of whatever stripe) you can even
 diagnose those with surety.

Pulling the glow plugs and (carefully) connecting them across the battery
and looking for an orange glow works great, too.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
From memory, it's in the 114 / 115 chassis book, in the tire section. I
haven't looked in a while

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:11:12 -0600 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service
 manual  show them the text.

What section?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1971 220D Oil Consumption

2006-11-16 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 13:33:10 -0500 dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 One question I have, now that the vacuum pump is open.  Should the two
 check valves be seated the same way?  Currently they are not: the check
 valve that leads to the brake booster hose allows air to be sucked
 inward, creating a vacuum in the brake booster.  The check valve that
 leads to the intake manifold is the opposite, allowing air to be sucked
 outward, toward the intake.  I'm pretty sure that the check valve that
 leads to the brake booster is correctly installed, but I'm not sure
 about the other check valve.  Even if it weren't correct, would it make
 that much difference?  Thanks again.  

Think about what the vacuum pump is supposed to do:

   Diesels always run with little intake restriction (yes, I know about
   the damper in the 615.912 intake), so the manifold vacuum is lower
   than that on gasoline engines. The vacuum pump is supposed to
   provide a higher-than-intake-manifold vacuum by taking air from the
   brake booster and dumping it into the intake manifold, so the brake
   booster has more vacuum to run on.

So, your check valves are correct. It would make a lot of difference if
they were not correct.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
Pulling the glow plugs and (carefully) connecting them across the 
battery

and looking for an orange glow works great, too.


Also useful information, but I don't know if it would have caught
my one GP that drew 2x normal current.  But the ammeter fingered it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Glow plugs that draw 2X normal current usually take care of themselves
pretty quickly. They start drawing 0 current after a few cycles.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

 Pulling the glow plugs and (carefully) connecting them across the 
 battery
 and looking for an orange glow works great, too.

Also useful information, but I don't know if it would have caught
my one GP that drew 2x normal current.  But the ammeter fingered it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:56:45 -0800 Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 These are pretty cool, eh?
 
 http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/

Yes, indeed. They are also pretty complicated -- lots of things to break.


Craig



[MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread Stephen D Murrell
$34,900 starting bid; RESERVE NOT MET?!?!??!?!
couldn't a person buy a nice NEW merc. benz. for about this price??
Steve



Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
A small C class.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Stephen D Murrell
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:48 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

$34,900 starting bid; RESERVE NOT MET?!?!??!?!
couldn't a person buy a nice NEW merc. benz. for about this price??
Steve

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Re: [MBZ] Water Wetter

2006-11-16 Thread Redghost
Doing a fluid change on the e300d a few years ago, I used it as 
insurance for the trip from Seattle to D.C. and Florida.  No great heat 
at home to worry about, but I knew I would be doing hills and heat 
close to the Atlantic and midwest.  Worked like a charm, keeping the 
temps under 110 in traffic




On Nov 12, 2006, at 6:27 AM, John Peterson wrote:


I had the Redline water wetter in my Saab- it did drop the temp by a
noticeable amount at idle in the summer.

John Peterson

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Does that Wetter Water Redline stuff do anything?

Regards Tom Scordato


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] E300D no start

2006-11-16 Thread Redghost
The AAA shop did not have tools to fix the leak on our e300d so told me 
to take it somewhere that does.  They did narrow it down to the IP 
area.  Either the tube is failed, the seals are shot or 


We will find out Monday.

On Nov 15, 2006, at 7:24 AM, ned kleinhenz wrote:

While following these lists, I notice a high number of '95 E300D 
owners are
fighting fuel leak problems.  I own two of them, and they both were 
leaving
smelly spots on the driveway.  They became hard to start, and lacked 
their

normal power, sometimes totally stalling.

Last weekend, I replace all five of the clear plastic fuel lines 
between the
fuel filters and FI pump on one of my '95's.  Replaced the included 
o-rings

and metal seals too.  That made a huge difference.

I've been driving a '95 E300D since Sept 1998.  Except for that stupid 
shut

off valve on top of the fuel filter, never had problems with any fuel
leaks prior to recent months. I've never used BioD.  So the probable 
cause
is either very precisely programmed obsolesence of the fuel system 
polymers,

or ULSD. Take your pick.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] need a lap top DVD drive

2006-11-16 Thread Redghost
Might just get yourself a USB or firewire external at Fry's.  Cost 
about the same.


I love REPC!  Last time I visited they did not have many Toshiba drives 
though.  If they do, the drive is good.  Can not say the same for ebay


On Nov 15, 2006, at 4:50 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

DVD/burner drive on toshiba laptop is bad, where is the best place
online to get a replacement?  Probably ebay?  Doesnt have to be a
toshiba one does it?  Assume any would work?



Is this one of those slide-in, removable ones? You're probably going to
have to get a Toshiba one meant for the same model.  There's no
standardization as to the size and shape of those.

If there's a computer recycler or surplus outlet near you, they often
have big piles of laptop drives.  Or try these guys: 
http://www.repc.com/


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

Glow plugs that draw 2X normal current usually take care of themselves
pretty quickly. They start drawing 0 current after a few cycles.


I drove it for a couple of months that way before finally replacing
the plug.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Used oops pre-owned computer bits

2006-11-16 Thread Redghost
Man, we are soo pitiful!  We just get our rocks off hitting these 
surplus places and getting goodies.   I had to clean my garage twice to 
get rid of it all.  Filled it twice with all the great toys.  I bet 
Wichita has a surplus as well.  Maybe Kaleb needs to get some 737 parts


On Nov 15, 2006, at 7:40 PM, Zeitgeist wrote:


Boeing Surplus, rocks

On 11/15/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



RePC and Boeing Surplus are two of the best things about living in the
Seattle area. ;)



--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Redghost
I just got 40 pounds of fresh venison.  BiL and I had been hunting last 
weekend for modern firearms and came up goose egg.  He was on the way 
home after work Monday and some guy two cars ahead decided to send a 
buck his way over the car between them.  After the state trooper put it 
down, BiL took it home and had his third buck of the year.  Next week 
bow hunting opens again,


On Nov 15, 2006, at 8:30 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


population.  The hunters can go out and find deer anytime.  I
calculated
there are about 3000 per square mile.  Meanwhile the Wizards at the
state
DNR are trying to get the population UP to 15 per square mile.


They include areas like lakes.  Oceans...

-- Jim


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

2006-11-16 Thread M.Afzaal.Khan
Would you have a idea  what was the toe-in  differences with and without 
pushing out  on the wheels.
Keen to know if the  force sufficed which I understand should be  around 
100 N.

mak

Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern



Most tire shops don't use a spreader bar here either. I've stood under the
car, pushing out on the inside front edges of the tires while the tech 
took
his readings. Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service manual  
show

them the text. Then the response is always a version of I didn't know or
It figures, it's a Mercedes.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

Peter Merle wrote:


No spreader bar was used- I have never seen this being done here in
South Africa. Joints are all very tight everywhere. Would too much
toe-in or toe-out cause this condition


If no spreader bar was used, that would tend to make them set the
car for too much toe out. The spreader bar pushes the front of the
tires out, and the technician adjusts them back inward, thereby
increasing toe-in to compensate for wear.

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Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern - now added poor service

2006-11-16 Thread Peter Merle
I must get the section out and show these idiots and demand a refund. I
have paid money twice for their expert advice and just get poor
service. This is fairly typical of certainly motor car service in South
Africa where one has to micromanage all service providers activities. IS
the same typical elsewhere? How is it in the US?
PEter

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 16 November 2006 06:39 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern


From memory, it's in the 114 / 115 chassis book, in the tire section. I
haven't looked in a while

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:11:12 -0600 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service
 manual  show them the text.

What section?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern - now added poor service

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Peter,

Here in the states, tire changers  alignment techs are on the low end of
the mechanic pay scale. But they don't have to be on the high end because it
does not take a lot of skill to run a modern alignment machine.

General mechanics are another story. There are some true craftsmen around -
you just have to find them.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 1:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern - now added poor service

I must get the section out and show these idiots and demand a refund. I
have paid money twice for their expert advice and just get poor
service. This is fairly typical of certainly motor car service in South
Africa where one has to micromanage all service providers activities. IS
the same typical elsewhere? How is it in the US?
PEter

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 16 November 2006 06:39 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern


From memory, it's in the 114 / 115 chassis book, in the tire section. I
haven't looked in a while

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:11:12 -0600 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service
 manual  show them the text.

What section?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Actual difference depends on the amount of wear on all of the suspension
parts.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of M.Afzaal.Khan
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 9:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

Would you have a idea  what was the toe-in  differences with and without 
pushing out  on the wheels.
 Keen to know if the  force sufficed which I understand should be  around 
100 N.
mak

 Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern


 Most tire shops don't use a spreader bar here either. I've stood under the
 car, pushing out on the inside front edges of the tires while the tech 
 took
 his readings. Most think I'm nuts until I pull out the service manual  
 show
 them the text. Then the response is always a version of I didn't know or
 It figures, it's a Mercedes.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
 Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:54 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

 Peter Merle wrote:

 No spreader bar was used- I have never seen this being done here in
 South Africa. Joints are all very tight everywhere. Would too much
 toe-in or toe-out cause this condition

 If no spreader bar was used, that would tend to make them set the
 car for too much toe out. The spreader bar pushes the front of the
 tires out, and the technician adjusts them back inward, thereby
 increasing toe-in to compensate for wear.

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[MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread kevin kraly
It's a 1983 300SD with 284K on the clock.  It has very nice gray paint, 
pretty good gray interior other than some dash cracks and worn seat springs, 
no blowby, strong firm shifting tranny that shifts when it's supposed to 
both up and down, all working power windows and sunroof, and it made the 70 
mile drive through rain, wind and traffic up from Albany to Hillsboro with 
no problem!  It could use pads and rotors in the front, and Rusty has them 
on sale, YEAH!  A diesel Purge and a valve adjustment are also in the 
future.  Now, here's the bad stuff, and the list isn't too long!  First off, 
it needs working power seat mechanisms.  Right now, The driver's seat is 
stuck all the way back which is great only for someone with very long legs! 
The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.  Also, the power seat 
switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, not too 
functional.  Does this require a new switch?  If so, does the whole door 
panel need to be removed to do the job?
Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could be as 
simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump in 
the spare tire well since it's leaking.
Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  The ACC does 
work with good heat and defrost when needed.
Fourth:  The panel above the rear window that houses the interior light is 
sagging in the center although it's secure on both ends.   Could it be 
missing a clip that keeps the center in place?


I thought that $1300 was a good deal for a very good running and very 
presentable deily driver.  I'm sure I'll have other questions as I become 
more familiar with the W126 chassis, my first turbo diesel Mercedes!


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, waiting for a name 





Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Kevin,

The knobs just press onto the seat controls but they can be hard to find.
The seat mechanism is broken.
The central lock system pump is likely bad.
AC could get expensive.

Great price.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of kevin kraly
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 1:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] I found one!

It's a 1983 300SD with 284K on the clock.  It has very nice gray paint, 
pretty good gray interior other than some dash cracks and worn seat springs,

no blowby, strong firm shifting tranny that shifts when it's supposed to 
both up and down, all working power windows and sunroof, and it made the 70 
mile drive through rain, wind and traffic up from Albany to Hillsboro with 
no problem!  It could use pads and rotors in the front, and Rusty has them 
on sale, YEAH!  A diesel Purge and a valve adjustment are also in the 
future.  Now, here's the bad stuff, and the list isn't too long!  First off,

it needs working power seat mechanisms.  Right now, The driver's seat is 
stuck all the way back which is great only for someone with very long legs! 
The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.  Also, the power seat 
switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, not too 
functional.  Does this require a new switch?  If so, does the whole door 
panel need to be removed to do the job?
Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could be as

simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump in 
the spare tire well since it's leaking.
Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  The ACC does 
work with good heat and defrost when needed.
Fourth:  The panel above the rear window that houses the interior light is 
sagging in the center although it's secure on both ends.   Could it be 
missing a clip that keeps the center in place?

I thought that $1300 was a good deal for a very good running and very 
presentable deily driver.  I'm sure I'll have other questions as I become 
more familiar with the W126 chassis, my first turbo diesel Mercedes!

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, waiting for a name 


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Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread kevin kraly
Thanks, Tom, for the info.  I know of a 300SD parts car though I may have 
discovered it too late.  I'm sure I'll be able to find the necessary parts 
to get her in top form.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, unnamed 





[MBZ] 1980 300D parts car or replace engine

2006-11-16 Thread kevin kraly
I forgot to mention that the owner of the 300SD that I bought also has a 
1980 300D that doesn't run.  He bought it and discovered that the timing was 
off.  He replaced the chain and brought it back into spec, but it still 
isn't right.  He thinks it may have bent/damaged valves causing low 
compression to the point where it catches but doesn't quite start.  It has a 
nice body and interior, good for parts or ready for an engine swap.  He's 
asking $400 for it, and it has 135K on the clock.  If you would like to 
contact him, call (541)619-6490 or email [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles 





Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D parts car or replace engine

2006-11-16 Thread Tom Hargrave
Too far away  too much work considering my crazy schedule. But thanks for
thinking of me anyway.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of kevin kraly
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 3:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 1980 300D parts car or replace engine

I forgot to mention that the owner of the 300SD that I bought also has a 
1980 300D that doesn't run.  He bought it and discovered that the timing was

off.  He replaced the chain and brought it back into spec, but it still 
isn't right.  He thinks it may have bent/damaged valves causing low 
compression to the point where it catches but doesn't quite start.  It has a

nice body and interior, good for parts or ready for an engine swap.  He's 
asking $400 for it, and it has 135K on the clock.  If you would like to 
contact him, call (541)619-6490 or email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles 


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Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread barrystark
Kevin -
  
 The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.  
likely the actuator cable has worn out ends slipping or sometimes they are 
coming out of the socket on the motor

Also, the power seat 
 switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, 

if the switch isn't broken, the knobs just push on
  
 If so, does the whole door 
 panel need to be removed to do the job?

Maybe, on my '81 you had to solder in a new switch connector as the switch was 
soldered directly to the wires with no connector. Not sure of when they came 
with connectors. I believe that on the ones with the connector you just have to 
remove the trim around the switch to remove them

 Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could be as 
 simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump in 
 the spare tire well since it's leaking.
What's leaking?

if the pump isn't running at all remove it and apply voltage directly. try 
reverse polarity as well. If it runs you need to plug the outlet wqith you 
finger to make it switch over and then reverse polarity to run the other way. 
If the motor is ok then you have a vacuum leak. If that is the case, i.e. good 
pump, then report that back and I will go into detail of how to diagnose that.

 Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  repairable just 
 can easily run into a grand or more



Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 11/15/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 These are pretty cool, eh?

 http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/

Yes indeedy.  Wonder which item is there to provide the front/rear
slip?  It wasn't completely obvious to me, but no doubt it has to
be there.



Computer-controlled clutches of some kind inside the center
differential, making the front/rear torque allotment variable.  As
Craig points out, this is a far more complicated AWD approach than the
ones used at the time by Audi (a simple open differential with manual
either-or lockup) and BMW (a heat-sensitive viscous clutch like the
ones used on our engine fans).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper



Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread kevin kraly
It's nice to have one that's in good working order for $1300.  However, I 
couldn't see (no pun intended) paying more than $34K for a 23 year old brand 
new car although nothing made today is as easy to work on.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, Johanna 





Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Then again it could just be a leaky O ring but will still cost money, 
especially over here where you are not allowed to charge/discharge systems 
without a license.
That's the story with my new to me 201, a leaky O ring is the problem(well 
the idler bearing sounds like it has seen better days) but I had to get the 
system filled up and now have to get it discharged in order to replace the O 
ring.


Hendrik
who is only thinking of the children when spending money on the A/C system

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I found one!


and I will go into detail of how to diagnose that.


Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  repairable 
just can easily run into a grand or more


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Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Hendrik Riessen

Of course this is MB we are talking about, engineered like no other car.
Probably superior in operation but hellishly expensive to fix if it breaks. 
Don't know wether Rusty stocks too many of these clutches?


Hendrik
who wonders if other MB all wheel drive systems like the ML and G use the 
same principles


- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato




Computer-controlled clutches of some kind inside the center
differential, making the front/rear torque allotment variable.  As
Craig points out, this is a far more complicated AWD approach than the
ones used at the time by Audi (a simple open differential with manual
either-or lockup) and BMW (a heat-sensitive viscous clutch like the
ones used on our engine fans).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

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Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Curt Raymond
Not so! Rusty has 'em. I've had to replace them on my 190D after the ham-handed 
previous owner broke all the knobs off on both sides...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 02:09:18 -0600 From: Tom Hargrave  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 
I found one! To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'  Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii  
Kevin,  The knobs just press onto the seat controls but they can be hard to  
find.
 
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Those front coil springs sure are a bizarre design.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Sunil Hari

hendrik, you know that kids rode around in cars long before A/C was in cars
 give them a water bottle and let them sweat it out.

On 11/16/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Not so! Rusty has 'em. I've had to replace them on my 190D after the
ham-handed previous owner broke all the knobs off on both sides...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 02:09:18 -0600 From: Tom Hargrave  Subject: Re:
[MBZ] I found one! To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'  Message-ID: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Kevin,  The knobs just press onto the seat controls but they can be hard
to  find.

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Rich Thomas

Yep, and walked uphill to school both ways in the snow in August.

--R

Sunil Hari wrote:

hendrik, you know that kids rode around in cars long before A/C was in cars
 give them a water bottle and let them sweat it out.

On 11/16/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

Not so! Rusty has 'em. I've had to replace them on my 190D after the
ham-handed previous owner broke all the knobs off on both sides...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 02:09:18 -0600 From: Tom Hargrave  Subject: Re:
[MBZ] I found one! To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'  Message-ID: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Kevin,  The knobs just press onto the seat controls but they can be hard
to  find.

-
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Click now for info
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[MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread ned kleinhenz

Most of the glow plug threads seem to involve a lot of discussion about
isolating a bad glow plug to replace it.
When I have glow plug problems, I always start by sending Rusty $60+/- for a
whole new set, then installing them.  This is because I only have to replace
them once every few years and many 10's of 1000's miles.   In more than 20
years of driving MB diesels, I have never had a random failure of a young
glow plug.  Is that common occurance, and I'm just lucky not to experience
it?   Or do most glow plugs last almost forever, and all I should really
need to replace is one or two that go bad?

I'm always ready to learn a better way.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD (need the garage space - its gotta go)


Re: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread LarryT

Hi Ned,
I started one of the recent threads about diagnosing a bad GP.   Also, I 
agree with you method of replacing all GPS instead of trying to locate a bad 
one, then replacing the GP with a problem.


But I recenty replaced all 5 GPs - then my relay started to act funny - the 
preglow light would flash for  less than a second.  Which indicates a bad #1 
GP or 2 others.  Since all my GPs are new I thought perhaps one had died an 
early death.  Also, the relay stopped lighting the GPs at all - making the 
car almost impossible to start when cold - so I replaced the relay.


Now, I still need to isolate the problem. Next, I'll remove the Intake 
Manufold to gain access to the GP's but I'm still needing to ID which GP has 
a problem.  At Jim's suggestion I've been looking for a meter that will read 
the DC Current draw but Sears was out of them.  Maybe next week or maybe 
I'll find one on the net.


Later -- 


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: ned kleinhenz [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 9:57 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?



Most of the glow plug threads seem to involve a lot of discussion about
isolating a bad glow plug to replace it.
When I have glow plug problems, I always start by sending Rusty $60+/- for 
a
whole new set, then installing them.  This is because I only have to 
replace

them once every few years and many 10's of 1000's miles.   In more than 20
years of driving MB diesels, I have never had a random failure of a young
glow plug.  Is that common occurance, and I'm just lucky not to experience
it?   Or do most glow plugs last almost forever, and all I should really
need to replace is one or two that go bad?

I'm always ready to learn a better way.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD (need the garage space - its gotta go)
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Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread LarryT

Hi Tom,
What are the warning signs of a bad/dieing Rack Damper Bolt?  If I have one, 
need to know how to tell if it's bad.   Man!  This is getting complicated!


TIA,

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper 
Bolt,if he has one?




Replacing the rack damper with a used one is not the answer. Mercedes
designed a replacement with higher spring tension to help prevent hunting.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 8:32 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if he has one?

Thanks John,
   I'll look thru my WSM tomorrow to see if anything looks familiar. 
Nice


little shameless plug - but I need to *find* my Rack Bolt -- replacing it
with a used one may be just a *tad* premature.
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



It's called a PIN
A742674

item 257 on the part sheet,
617.952 engine, 07 injection pump, 045 injection pump.
It doesn't look like the non-turbo injection pumps had one?

BTW (shamless plug) I've a used one here for oh say $50 usa.

On 15-Nov-06, at 4:10 PM, LarryT wrote:


Hi Tom,
I looked at the IP in my WSM and there's nothing called a Rack
Damper Bolt.
Might MB use different terminology from what the official term
is? (which
we of course, use properly)

Thanks!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



Thanks Tom,
Now that I have a general idea I csan look in the WSM to find it
exactly 
read about it - and what it does.

moochs grassyass.  (I figger its time for me to learn to speak a
little
Spanish, obviously very little)
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack
Damper
Bolt,if he has one?



It's on the back of the pump, on the flat surface, towards the
bottom
driver
side corner. Look straight down between the oil filter housing 
the back
of
the pomp - it's the only thing sticking out down there.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 10:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper
Bolt,if
he has one?

You're asking the wrong person. I had to call my Indy to locate
it on  my
300SD (it's on the very back...I think the only thing there, if I
remember,
that looks like a bolt going straight into the back of the IP  and a
locking
nut). 12mm and 14mm - bolt and nut respectively.

 This is a question for Marshall or some other guru.

LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Hi Chris,
Where is the Rack Damper Bolt located?  Do I have one on my 91
300D 2.5T?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- 

Re: [MBZ] Used oops pre-owned computer bits

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yea, thats what I need

Redghost wrote:

Man, we are soo pitiful!  We just get our rocks off hitting these 
surplus places and getting goodies.   I had to clean my garage twice to 
get rid of it all.  Filled it twice with all the great toys.  I bet 
Wichita has a surplus as well.  Maybe Kaleb needs to get some 737 parts





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin



kevin kraly wrote:

It's a 1983 300SD with 284K on the clock.  It has very nice gray paint, 
pretty good gray interior other than some dash cracks and worn seat springs, 
no blowby, strong firm shifting tranny that shifts when it's supposed to 
both up and down, all working power windows and sunroof, and it made the 70 
mile drive through rain, wind and traffic up from Albany to Hillsboro with 
no problem!  It could use pads and rotors in the front, and Rusty has them 
on sale, YEAH!  A diesel Purge and a valve adjustment are also in the 
future.  Now, here's the bad stuff, and the list isn't too long!  First off, 
it needs working power seat mechanisms.  Right now, The driver's seat is 
stuck all the way back which is great only for someone with very long legs! 
The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.


Needs a new seat cable, not a big deal.
  Also, the power seat
switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, not too 
functional.  Does this require a new switch?  If so, does the whole door 
panel need to be removed to do the job?


YOu just need the knobs, they just snap on, unless the actual studs are 
broken off, then you will need a new switch.  And yes, yo uhave to 
remove the door panel.


Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could be as 
simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump in 
the spare tire well since it's leaking.


Check fuse first, if not, see if you are getting power to the pump.  If 
so, its the pump, if not, probably the switch in the door.


Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  The ACC does 
work with good heat and defrost when needed.
Fourth:  The panel above the rear window that houses the interior light is 
sagging in the center although it's secure on both ends.   Could it be 
missing a clip that keeps the center in place?


It could be, you would just have to check.


I thought that $1300 was a good deal for a very good running and very 
presentable deily driver.  I'm sure I'll have other questions as I become 
more familiar with the W126 chassis, my first turbo diesel Mercedes!


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, waiting for a name 



___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

When they were brand new with warranty they could be had for that much.

kevin kraly wrote:

It's nice to have one that's in good working order for $1300.  However, I 
couldn't see (no pun intended) paying more than $34K for a 23 year old brand 
new car although nothing made today is as easy to work on.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, Johanna 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

ned kleinhenz wrote:

Most of the glow plug threads seem to involve a lot of discussion about
isolating a bad glow plug to replace it.
When I have glow plug problems, I always start by sending Rusty $60+/- for a
whole new set, then installing them.  This is because I only have to replace
them once every few years and many 10's of 1000's miles.   In more than 20
years of driving MB diesels, I have never had a random failure of a young
glow plug.  Is that common occurance, and I'm just lucky not to experience
it?   Or do most glow plugs last almost forever, and all I should really
need to replace is one or two that go bad?

I'm always ready to learn a better way.


If the engine is running well, glow plug problems with older (pre 1990) 
engines seldom occur before the engine has 100kmi and many lasted closer 
to 200kmi. As post start glow was implemented however, glow plug on 
time increased so the life of the plugs (measured in miles driven) 
decreased as the duration of glow plug on time increased.


For a mid '90s or later Mercedes diesel car, largely only driven in city 
cycle to and from work and a few shopping trips a week, the glow plug 
life might only be 40-60kmi while one that was driven more than 100 
miles for every cold start might get 150,000 or more miles before the 
glow plugs began to fail (providing poor idle problems were addressed 
promptly).


Glow plug life is largely a function of how long the plugs are energized 
for each start. In the older engines the AVERAGE time the plugs were 
energized seldom exceeded 10-20 second while with the newer engines that 
time may be extended by a factor of 10! Even with much more durable 
plugs, the life of the plugs is MANY fewer miles.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

BiL and I had been hunting last
weekend for modern firearms and came up goose egg.


I'm always looking for those too!  :-)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 350sdl tensioner

2006-11-16 Thread Constantine N. Polites
I have presented this issue on several lists and have received a lot of 
different point of view, all which are valuable.


The issue is the failure of the serpentine belt tensioner.

Several individuals have indicated that they have encountered failures 
around 20,000 with no other cause.


Others have indicated that the cause is either a loose bolt or perhaps 
another pulley not in proper position.


Another view was that the tensioner is of poor design and is very 
intolerant of  other forces.


I believe that all of the above is true.

First, I found that there can be potential problems with all of the 
associated pulleys (water pump, alternator, power steering
and a/c).  To reduce the stress and potential vibration these have to be 
checked for proper alignment : they must be inline
with the driveshaft  pulley.  Next they must each be checked with a dial 
indicator for trueness.  Such an indictor should have
a range of not more .2 mm ( my view). Pulleys, when mounted on the shaft 
can be be out of round
by .2 mm or more.  This can be minimized  by removing the pulley and 
checking the shaft, noting the high point,the low point and
then mounting the pulley and rotating it on the shaft so that you get 
the pulley's low point over the shafts high point.


I really don't know if any of this has any real effect on the failure 
but at least you have minimized the potential for damage.

Any other views ?

Constantine




Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Michael
I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the all and 
the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the accellerator, the 
problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to Orlando and back last winter with 
this problem from Columbus, GA)  It's a very annoying problem but the IP itself 
should not fail as I was told.  

My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as I was told 
by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.  The IP had 265K miles 
on it.  I had just bought the car and had put about 3k miles on it myself.

On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video on how to 
replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch rebuilt IP on ebay for 
$200 and paid a dealership $300 something to put it on for me.  The dealership 
mechanic said that the IP price through MB is pretty steep.  About $1200 just 
for the rebuilt pump.  

My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...

Thanks and good luck,  Michael


(the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for the car)

Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King




Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern - now added poor service

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

service. This is fairly typical of certainly motor car service in South
Africa where one has to micromanage all service providers activities. 
IS

the same typical elsewhere? How is it in the US?


As automobiles transition towards being appliances, like large
toasters, I expect more and more of this.  The 'dirty ashtray'
replacement days are a-comin'!  Not fast, I pray.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
So you didnt try replacing the old style bolt with the new?  Thats the 
problem 99.9% of the time.


Michael wrote:

I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the all and the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the accellerator, the problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to Orlando and back last winter with this problem from Columbus, GA)  It's a very annoying problem but the IP itself should not fail as I was told.  


My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as I was told 
by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.  The IP had 265K miles 
on it.  I had just bought the car and had put about 3k miles on it myself.

On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video on how to replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch rebuilt IP on ebay for $200 and paid a dealership $300 something to put it on for me.  The dealership mechanic said that the IP price through MB is pretty steep.  About $1200 just for the rebuilt pump.  


My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...

Thanks and good luck,  Michael


(the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for the car)

Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
it needs working power seat mechanisms.  Right now, The driver's seat 
is
stuck all the way back which is great only for someone with very long 
legs!

The motor runs, but the seat doesn't go anywhere.  Also, the power seat


The bowden cables can pull out of their sockets.  Some BFH and plier
work can sometimes bring them back, or so I'm told.  Hasn't really
happened to me yet, but we only have power seats in the SDL and
it's been pretty good to us so far.

switch knobs are missing leaving only little pieces to grab onto, not 
too
functional.  Does this require a new switch?  If so, does the whole 
door

panel need to be removed to do the job?


There are posts sticking out that the knobs snap onto.  If the posts are
broken off, then yes, you will need a new switch.  Some are soldered in,
some have connectors.  Again, I have no specific knowledge.

Second: the central locking system doesn't work.  I know that it could 
be as
simple as a fuse, or moisture in the trunk could have damaged the pump 
in

the spare tire well since it's leaking.


Or as simple as it having gotten confused.  A power cycle will sometimes
bring them back, you can do that with the fuse.

Third:  AC doesn't work which isn't too big of a worry yet.  The ACC 
does

work with good heat and defrost when needed.


Should be a good DIY candidate.  It uses the R4 compressor, does it not?

Fourth:  The panel above the rear window that houses the interior 
light is

sagging in the center although it's secure on both ends.   Could it be
missing a clip that keeps the center in place?


Never had ours apart there, but ham-handed mechanics can snap off
plastic retaining ears.  You'll need to pull the light, maybe you
can see what is wrong there, and/or come up with a fix.  In the
worst case you'd need a new panel.

Congratulations!  Where do I get in on the pool for how long
you'll keep this one?  :-)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] I found one!

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
if the pump isn't running at all remove it and apply voltage directly. 
try reverse polarity as well. If it runs you need to plug the outlet 
wqith you


Ack!  Don't do this, there's electronics in there that will _not_
appreciate this treatment.  First ascertain which style of pump
you have, the one that only works from the driver's door or the
one that works from any keylock.  The one has only a 3-pin round
connector (and is a steaming POS), and the other also has a 2-pin
rectangular connector.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

Computer-controlled clutches of some kind inside the center
differential, making the front/rear torque allotment variable.


I didn't see anything like a third spider gear set.  Maybe
just a slip clutch, but it wasn't screamingly obvious to me,
who can't read German except Was ist los, Aki? and the like.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
it?   Or do most glow plugs last almost forever, and all I should 
really

need to replace is one or two that go bad?


IMHO that's certainly true of the series plugs.  (The wiring to
them is a different story.)  The parallel plugs definitely are
more of a wear item.

Which replacement approach (batch or on-demand) makes the most
sense depends on the car, if you ask me.  And on your tolerance
for tinkering.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey

Now, I still need to isolate the problem. Next, I'll remove the Intake
Manufold to gain access to the GP's but I'm still needing to ID which 
GP has
a problem.  At Jim's suggestion I've been looking for a meter that 
will read

the DC Current draw but Sears was out of them.


I don't think you need to pull the manifold until/unless you
find that you need to.  All the diagnosis (except for seeing
if the plug ends glow orange) can be done right at the relay.
And bad heating characteristics won't affect the GP light,
your primary symptom right now, only how well it starts.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread Jim Cathey
What are the warning signs of a bad/dieing Rack Damper Bolt?  If I 
have one,
need to know how to tell if it's bad.   Man!  This is getting 
complicated!


I always thought it was a loping idle.  Or, if too tight, weird starting
characteristics.  (Due to the rack not moving to where it ought.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Michael
No, I did not try what you are suggesting.   I was told that with some pumps 
the replacement bolt simply won't work, that it was a waste of time to even try 
given the high mileage of the engine.

Then, when the MB dealer mech. had the pump out of the car- he showed me how 
all the adjustment was already taken up with the bolt currently in the pump.  
He said the pump was not adjustable and therefore had to either be rebuilt or 
replaced.

Both of my sources are MB repair shops, one an independent, reputable MB shop 
in Savannah, GA.  The second source is the MB dealership for Columbus, Ga.

Thanks, Michael

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 16, 2006 11:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

So you didnt try replacing the old style bolt with the new?  Thats the 
problem 99.9% of the time.

Michael wrote:

 I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the all 
 and the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the 
 accellerator, the problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to Orlando and 
 back last winter with this problem from Columbus, GA)  It's a very annoying 
 problem but the IP itself should not fail as I was told.  
 
 My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as I was 
 told by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.  The IP had 265K 
 miles on it.  I had just bought the car and had put about 3k miles on it 
 myself.
 
 On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video on how 
 to replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch rebuilt IP on 
 ebay for $200 and paid a dealership $300 something to put it on for me.  The 
 dealership mechanic said that the IP price through MB is pretty steep.  
 About $1200 just for the rebuilt pump.  
 
 My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...
 
 Thanks and good luck,  Michael
 
 
 (the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for the car)
 
 Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.
 
 - B. B. King
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King




Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Hate to tell you, but you got taken advantage of.  Yes, all the 
adjustment will be taken up with the old bolt, that is why you get the 
new bolt.  It doesnt have to be adjusted in as far because it has a 
heavier spring.  THats the problem with the old bolt, the spring is not 
as heavy and it has to be adjusted in all the way.


Michael wrote:


No, I did not try what you are suggesting.   I was told that with some pumps 
the replacement bolt simply won't work, that it was a waste of time to even try 
given the high mileage of the engine.

Then, when the MB dealer mech. had the pump out of the car- he showed me how 
all the adjustment was already taken up with the bolt currently in the pump.  
He said the pump was not adjustable and therefore had to either be rebuilt or 
replaced.

Both of my sources are MB repair shops, one an independent, reputable MB shop 
in Savannah, GA.  The second source is the MB dealership for Columbus, Ga.

Thanks, Michael

-Original Message-


From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 16, 2006 11:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

So you didnt try replacing the old style bolt with the new?  Thats the 
problem 99.9% of the time.


Michael wrote:


I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the all and the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the accellerator, the problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to Orlando and back last winter with this problem from Columbus, GA)  It's a very annoying problem but the IP itself should not fail as I was told.  


My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as I was told 
by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.  The IP had 265K miles 
on it.  I had just bought the car and had put about 3k miles on it myself.

On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video on how to replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch rebuilt IP on ebay for $200 and paid a dealership $300 something to put it on for me.  The dealership mechanic said that the IP price through MB is pretty steep.  About $1200 just for the rebuilt pump.  


My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...

Thanks and good luck,  Michael


(the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for the car)

Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Michael
Well thank you for your candor.  I'm happy with what I have and where I'm at 
now with the Benz.

My car is my daily driver and I'm satisfied that it's ready to take me anywhere 
I need to go.

-Michael

-Original Message-
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 16, 2006 11:42 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

Hate to tell you, but you got taken advantage of.  Yes, all the 
adjustment will be taken up with the old bolt, that is why you get the 
new bolt.  It doesnt have to be adjusted in as far because it has a 
heavier spring.  THats the problem with the old bolt, the spring is not 
as heavy and it has to be adjusted in all the way.

Michael wrote:

 No, I did not try what you are suggesting.   I was told that with some pumps 
 the replacement bolt simply won't work, that it was a waste of time to even 
 try given the high mileage of the engine.
 
 Then, when the MB dealer mech. had the pump out of the car- he showed me how 
 all the adjustment was already taken up with the bolt currently in the pump. 
  He said the pump was not adjustable and therefore had to either be rebuilt 
 or replaced.
 
 Both of my sources are MB repair shops, one an independent, reputable MB 
 shop in Savannah, GA.  The second source is the MB dealership for Columbus, 
 Ga.
 
 Thanks, Michael
 
 -Original Message-
 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 16, 2006 11:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

So you didnt try replacing the old style bolt with the new?  Thats the 
problem 99.9% of the time.

Michael wrote:


I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the all 
and the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the 
accellerator, the problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to Orlando and 
back last winter with this problem from Columbus, GA)  It's a very annoying 
problem but the IP itself should not fail as I was told.  

My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as I was 
told by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.  The IP had 
265K miles on it.  I had just bought the car and had put about 3k miles on 
it myself.

On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video on how 
to replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch rebuilt IP on 
ebay for $200 and paid a dealership $300 something to put it on for me.  
The dealership mechanic said that the IP price through MB is pretty steep.  
About $1200 just for the rebuilt pump.  

My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...

Thanks and good luck,  Michael


(the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for the car)

Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King


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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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 Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.
 
 - B. B. King
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King




Re: [MBZ] Strange Front trye wear pattern

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Peter Merle wrote:

On my W123 the front tyres , both  are exhibiting a strange wear pattern
where the outer blocks have a kind of saw-tooth pattern. Had alignment
checked and rotated tyres and now the previouslyly rear tyres are doing
the same thing. Shocks are new Bilsteins. Ball joints and arms are all
new. Any ideas
Peter 


The more complex patterns of wear described probably results from 
several defects combined. That may include worn front wheel bearings, 
worn shocks, worn ball joints, failure to align using the spreader bar, 
and other parts wear (drag link, tie rods and other bushings and joints) 
even though each of the wear amounts is within allowable tolerance.


It is NOT possible to completely correct for not using a spreader bar by 
adding or subtracting a fixed setting. That's why the spreader bar is 
necessary - to remove all traces of TOLERABLE wear (but all of the 
joints must be within the allowable tolerance).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Marshall or other guru: Where is Larry's Rack Damper Bolt, if he has one?

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:
What are the warning signs of a bad/dieing Rack Damper Bolt?  If I 
have one,
need to know how to tell if it's bad.   Man!  This is getting 
complicated!


I always thought it was a loping idle.  Or, if too tight, weird starting
characteristics.  (Due to the rack not moving to where it ought.)


CORRECT!

Attached is picture of old (bottom, silver colored) and new (top, gold 
colored) rack damper screw.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
inline: 61795RackDamp.JPG

[MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb

2006-11-16 Thread R A Bennell
Back in August I asked some questions about GM diesel trucks and then followed 
up as I never saw the question on
the forum. I have just discovered that my computer had shunted some of these 
messages off to another folder. Kaleb,
at one point, says, I have answered this question 3 times already.. Sorry 
about that, I just read it yesterday.
In any event, I didn't buy the diesel. I ended up with an 02 F150 Supercrew - 
not because I didn't want the diesel
but because I really wanted more passenger space. I did not really need or want 
an F250 or bigger so I bought the
gasser. So far, I really like the truck so it was probably the right decision 
for me. I have a very short commute
and did not think that I would be very good to a diesel in the winter months 
anyway.

Randy




Re: [MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb

2006-11-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

hahaha, mystery solved!!!

R A Bennell wrote:


Back in August I asked some questions about GM diesel trucks and then followed 
up as I never saw the question on
the forum. I have just discovered that my computer had shunted some of these 
messages off to another folder. Kaleb,
at one point, says, I have answered this question 3 times already.. Sorry 
about that, I just read it yesterday.
In any event, I didn't buy the diesel. I ended up with an 02 F150 Supercrew - 
not because I didn't want the diesel
but because I really wanted more passenger space. I did not really need or want 
an F250 or bigger so I bought the
gasser. So far, I really like the truck so it was probably the right decision 
for me. I have a very short commute
and did not think that I would be very good to a diesel in the winter months 
anyway.

Randy


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb

2006-11-16 Thread R A Bennell
Yes, the wonders of Microsoft Outlook.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 11:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb


hahaha, mystery solved!!!

R A Bennell wrote:

 Back in August I asked some questions about GM diesel trucks and then 
 followed up as I never saw the question on
 the forum. I have just discovered that my computer had shunted some of these 
 messages off to another folder.
Kaleb,
 at one point, says, I have answered this question 3 times already.. Sorry 
 about that, I just read it yesterday.
 In any event, I didn't buy the diesel. I ended up with an 02 F150 Supercrew - 
 not because I didn't want the
diesel
 but because I really wanted more passenger space. I did not really need or 
 want an F250 or bigger so I bought the
 gasser. So far, I really like the truck so it was probably the right decision 
 for me. I have a very short commute
 and did not think that I would be very good to a diesel in the winter months 
 anyway.

 Randy


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Zeitgeist

If I understand it correctly, the transfer of power to the front wheels is
operated through the ASR system, which may be the same as found on 2wd
vehicles.  I suspect that if the rear wheels begin to slip, the computer
sends hydraulic pressure to bear on the semi-locking rear diff and the
transfer case actuator.  Dunno for sure.

On 11/16/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Computer-controlled clutches of some kind inside the center
 differential, making the front/rear torque allotment variable.

I didn't see anything like a third spider gear set.  Maybe
just a slip clutch, but it wasn't screamingly obvious to me,
who can't read German except Was ist los, Aki? and the like.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


[MBZ] Thermostat and power steering leak

2006-11-16 Thread Donald Snook
When I left work last night, my power steering was howling as I left the
parking garage. (Car is a 1990 300SEL)   Luckily, I had flushed and
filled the PS several months ago and still had left over fluid in my
trunk. I checked it and it was very low - almost down to the filter
(without the engine running).  I filled it up and the noise when away.
My question is where is the leak.  I looked (quickly) in the darkness
last night and couldn't see anything.  Is there a common place to look?


 

2nd issue - 

 

Some of you may recall that I was complaining about not having any heat
(or at least it was rare and intermittent).  While I was filling the
power steering fluid I felt the upper and lower radiator hose.  The
upper hose was warm, but the lower hose (i.e. after the Thermostat) was
COLD.   Does this mean that my thermostat is bad or is it just a sign
that I had not driven far enough to get the thermostat to open.  

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL ~135K 



[MBZ] Deperately need HELP-Woodward/Fargo, OK

2006-11-16 Thread Joseph Shaw


This is a bit off topic, and I have not posted anything on here for some 
time, but I have run into a jam in West OK-purchased an old truck on ebay, 
and am having a LOT of trouble getting things straight with the seller.


If there is ANYONE close enough to this area to run an errand for me, get 
some info for me, recommend a towing service, storage place and tire shop, 
etc, I would greatly appreciate it, and possibly compenatse someone if it 
was out of their way and very inconvenient!


Thanks!  If anyone could do this, please let me know ASAP-my trip to a 
family wedding pretty much depends on it at this point!


Thanks!

Michael

_
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Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread TimothyPilgrim

I knew there was a reason I kept subscribing to the digest. Nice find!

Tim

1982 300TD Moby (for sale)
1991 300TE 4Matic Beulah

-
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:56:45 -0800
From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]

These are pretty cool, eh?

http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/



Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread TimothyPilgrim

Does anybody know of another resource the accurately explains the
operation of the older 4Matic? I've found this one, but it's only a
short writeup preceding a detailed explanation of the newer 4Matic
system.

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/ets.html

Tim
1982 300TD Moby (for sale)
1991 300TE 4Matic Beulah

--
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 01:49:53 -0800
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Computer-controlled clutches of some kind inside the center
differential, making the front/rear torque allotment variable.  As
Craig points out, this is a far more complicated AWD approach than the
ones used at the time by Audi (a simple open differential with manual
either-or lockup) and BMW (a heat-sensitive viscous clutch like the
ones used on our engine fans).



Re: [MBZ] OT Carfax please

2006-11-16 Thread Loren Faeth
I'd like to find a Marlin lever action chambered for 308.  This year we 
have one week we can shoot bambi (freeloading overgrown rats)   with a rifle!




At 10:13 AM 11/16/2006, you wrote:

 BiL and I had been hunting last
 weekend for modern firearms and came up goose egg.

I'm always looking for those too!  :-)

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb

2006-11-16 Thread Loren Faeth

Yeah, the fifth word pretty much isolates the problem

At 11:15 AM 11/16/2006, you wrote:

Yes, the wonders of Microsoft Outlook.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 11:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Apologies to Kaleb


hahaha, mystery solved!!!

R A Bennell wrote:

 Back in August I asked some questions about GM diesel trucks and then 
followed up as I never saw the question on
 the forum. I have just discovered that my computer had shunted some of 
these messages off to another folder.

Kaleb,
 at one point, says, I have answered this question 3 times already.. 
Sorry about that, I just read it yesterday.
 In any event, I didn't buy the diesel. I ended up with an 02 F150 
Supercrew - not because I didn't want the

diesel
 but because I really wanted more passenger space. I did not really need 
or want an F250 or bigger so I bought the
 gasser. So far, I really like the truck so it was probably the right 
decision for me. I have a very short commute
 and did not think that I would be very good to a diesel in the winter 
months anyway.


 Randy


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] 350sdl tensioner

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Constantine N. Polites wrote:
I have presented this issue on several lists and have received a lot of 
different point of view, all which are valuable.


The issue is the failure of the serpentine belt tensioner.

Several individuals have indicated that they have encountered failures 
around 20,000 with no other cause.


Others have indicated that the cause is either a loose bolt or perhaps 
another pulley not in proper position.


Another view was that the tensioner is of poor design and is very 
intolerant of  other forces.


I believe that all of the above is true.

First, I found that there can be potential problems with all of the 
associated pulleys (water pump, alternator, power steering
and a/c).  To reduce the stress and potential vibration these have to be 
checked for proper alignment : they must be inline
with the driveshaft  pulley.  Next they must each be checked with a dial 
indicator for trueness.  Such an indictor should have
a range of not more .2 mm ( my view). Pulleys, when mounted on the shaft 
can be be out of round
by .2 mm or more.  This can be minimized  by removing the pulley and 
checking the shaft, noting the high point,the low point and
then mounting the pulley and rotating it on the shaft so that you get 
the pulley's low point over the shafts high point.


I really don't know if any of this has any real effect on the failure 
but at least you have minimized the potential for damage.

Any other views ?


I have found that once the original tensioners were replaced (the 
originals up thru mid '80s were of a very inferior design - those 
manufactured in '86-'87 were MUCH better) the factory replacement 
tensioners, idlers and shocks (aftermarket parts VERY greatly in quality 
- especially the shock absorbers) lasted at least 100kmi and many lasted 
much longer - UNLESS factors resulting in less than true/smooth belt 
travel were not promptly repaired.


If the belt did not travel smoothly at all speeds, then wear on all of 
the parts of the tensioner system accelerated. I've never found it 
necessary to measure anything beyond looking at the system while the 
engine runs. Nothing should jitter and the belt should be aligned (look 
down on the belt - the belt and the idler must be aligned - more than a 
degree error and the pulley or lever bearing are usually bad) all of the 
pulleys must be in the same plane, the lever must not jitter up and down 
and there should be NO squeaking or chirping noises from the belt/pulley 
interfaces.


If the power steering or water pump or the alternator or the compressor 
clutch bearings begin to bind they MUST be serviced promptly before the 
tensioner bearings are damaged.


Many of the '86 thru 89 OM60x engines have had the tensioners last 
300-400kmi without maintenance other than replacing the idler and shock.


The earlier timing cover (into which the tensioner screwed) was less 
than robust and could be distorted when tightening the tensioner or if 
the tensioner loosened and was allowed to run that way very long. Once 
distorted, the timing cover and tensioner were very likely to fail. I 
have NOT had this happen to  any of my engines, but it is a known 
weakness and Mercedes redesigned and strengthened the timing cover - I 
have NO idea when the revised cover was introduced, but it was after 
model year 1987 for the OM603 engine. Dave M. had the timing cover on 
one of his OM603.96s crack.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Thermostat and power steering leak

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Donald Snook wrote:

When I left work last night, my power steering was howling as I left the
parking garage. (Car is a 1990 300SEL)   Luckily, I had flushed and
filled the PS several months ago and still had left over fluid in my
trunk. I checked it and it was very low - almost down to the filter
(without the engine running).  I filled it up and the noise when away.
My question is where is the leak.  I looked (quickly) in the darkness
last night and couldn't see anything.  Is there a common place to look?


 

2nd issue - 

 


Some of you may recall that I was complaining about not having any heat
(or at least it was rare and intermittent).  While I was filling the
power steering fluid I felt the upper and lower radiator hose.  The
upper hose was warm, but the lower hose (i.e. after the Thermostat) was
COLD.   Does this mean that my thermostat is bad or is it just a sign
that I had not driven far enough to get the thermostat to open.  

 


Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL ~135K 


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Most common leak in a 15+ year old car is the return hose leaking (cheap 
fix), but there are many possibilities including the pump front seals 
and steering box seals. Clean the engine compartment well and refill the 
reservoir. The look for leaks before starting and right after shutting 
off the car until you locate the leak.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Am I wasting money on glow plugs?

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:
it?   Or do most glow plugs last almost forever, and all I should 
really

need to replace is one or two that go bad?


IMHO that's certainly true of the series plugs.  (The wiring to
them is a different story.)  The parallel plugs definitely are
more of a wear item.

Which replacement approach (batch or on-demand) makes the most
sense depends on the car, if you ask me.  And on your tolerance
for tinkering.

-- Jim


When getting at the plugs was trivial (in most mid '80s and earlier 
Mercedes diesels) I replaced them as they failed. While rather rare, it 
IS possible for factors other than age to cause premature glow plug 
failures (but these other causes usually had symptoms that should have 
been VERY evident well before any plugs failed). See 
http://www.beru.com/download/produkte/TI04_e.pdf


As the job of changing plugs became more involved (starting with the 
OM60x.96 turbo engines and getting more complicated with each newer 
engine) I started recommending that they all be changed at one time 
UNLESS one failed truly prematurely (with less than 80-100kmi of service 
for plugs NOT subjected to afterstart glow). If one plug fails 
repeatedly, there is almost always something wrong with the fuel 
injection or combustion in the associated prechamber. If plugs 
prematurely fail randomly, the cause is usually that the plugs are being 
energized with the engine running or power doesn't shut off when it 
should - clearly a relay/controller problem.


Please use ONLY Beru or Bosch plugs! Do NOT use standard plugs if you 
want to introduce afterstart glow function. They will fail rather soon 
as they were NOT designed for the increased glow duration.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Michael wrote:

I just replaced a pump on my '83 300TD.  The bolt is adjusted all the
all and the car still shudders horribly at idle.  When you tough the
accellerator, the problem stops.  (I drove the car like this to
Orlando and back last winter with this problem from Columbus, GA)
It's a very annoying problem but the IP itself should not fail as I
was told.

My old IP was completely adjusted out.   The IP needed a rebuild- as
I was told by two sources.  A replacement bolt was not an option.
The IP had 265K miles on it.  I had just bought the car and had put
about 3k miles on it myself.

On Ebay- there are used IP's, rebuilt IP's and even a training video
on how to replace the IP for the 123 style benz.  I found a bosch
rebuilt IP on ebay for $200 and paid a dealership $300 something to
put it on for me.  The dealership mechanic said that the IP price
through MB is pretty steep.  About $1200 just for the rebuilt pump.


My benz is running alot better now!  I hope this helps...

Thanks and good luck,  Michael


(the bolt is in the rear of the pump- look it up in a shop book for
the car)

Nobody loves me like my mother, and she could be jivin' too.

- B. B. King




The rack damper ONLY damps the lope that is caused by the natural
resonance that exists in the OM617.95 injection pump. It does NOT reduce
any other cause of engine roughness. Old style (silver) rack damper 
screws may NOT damp the lope even when tightened all the way in!! That's 
why the revised (gold) rack damper screws were designed!


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Tom Hargrave wrote:


Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D  240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another


Til you have to replace the heater blower motor!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

ernest breakfield wrote:

Marshall,

this document specifies '81-'84; was there something different about '85s, 
or
does this document pre-date '85s?


cheers!
e


Marshall Booth wrote:


ned kleinhenz wrote:

Situation:
Son's '85 300D glow plug light does not come on.
Outside temp is below 40F and car will not start.

The 80A fuse in the GP control box is OK.
I suspect it needs new glow plugs.  But please help confirm my diagnosis is
probably correct.

Two questions:

If my memory serves me correctly -
If the GP light does not come on, the following are the potential causes by
priority:
1. Blown fuse.
2. At least one bad glow plug
3. GP control system is faulty
4. GP light is burned out.

Is this correct?

I expect this car probably has the newer parallel glow plug configuration,
so I'm not sure how the controller behaves.
Other question - if the glow plug light does not come on, does that mean the
glow plug circuit is not activating?
In other words, will one or more bad glow plugs prevent the entire glow plug
cycle from happening?

This attachment is appropriate for ALL of the 617.95 engines.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

  
Name: glow8184s.pdf
   glow8184s.pdfType: Acrobat (application/pdf)
Encoding: base64

  
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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___
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The pages I sent were published in '84. They're actually good for all of 
the diesels thru 1987 EXCEPT the mid model year '87 190D 2.5 turbos 
(that had a different controller without any fuse).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] 4-Matic schematics...neato

2006-11-16 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:

These are pretty cool, eh?

http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/


Yes indeedy.  Wonder which item is there to provide the front/rear
slip?  It wasn't completely obvious to me, but no doubt it has to
be there.

The page implied that there were 300D/300TD cars available with
4-matic.  If there were (here in the US), there'd be at least two
of them on our hillside alone.


No 4-matic diesels were officially imported to the US. They were fairly 
common in Europe.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread tom savage

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

When they were brand new with warranty they could be had for that much.


Yeah, but when they were brand new you could go down to Jackie Cooper 
and buy one in that condition in any color you wanted.  Nowadays there 
are perhaps only twenty left in the whole world in that condition.  The 
market for mint 300SDs has shrunk since then, but not as much as the 
pool of available cars.  Whether or not it is worth $35 is for the shill 
bidders to decide, but I can easily see how this could be worth as much 
as a new C-Class.


Ncie dore panls, to.  I hvae drems aboot droor panls lik that.

Tom



Re: [MBZ] 83 300SD; showroom car

2006-11-16 Thread John M McIntosh
Ya, and up here in West Coast Canada, 300CDs are going for 10K in the  
paper at the moment, 250K miles...



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
pool of available cars.  Whether or not it is worth $35 is for the  
shill
bidders to decide, but I can easily see how this could be worth as  
much

as a new C-Class.


John
1983 300TDt  372k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  180k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Bolt

2006-11-16 Thread LarryT
Marshall wrote:rack damper ONLY damps the lope that is caused by the 
natural

resonance that exists in the OM617.95 injection pump


Since I have a 602.962 I can assume the Rack Damper Bolt adjustment does me 
no good?  So, with Electronic Idle Control on my engine - the manual tells 
in detail how to test the idle speed - and they show the use of an 
electronic test device to conduct tests.


I have also read the section about adjusting the linkage but I hesitate to 
adjust anything because of the elctronic controls that may dominate the idle 
speed.  Or am I reading too much into the sophistication of the Idle 
control?


To describe the problem - when the accelerator is released and the engine 
speeds drops to idle often it will run slightly rough as if running too 
slow.  If the AC is on the idle seems to drop to the lower speed.  Even with 
the AC off, it still drops off but not as low.  This started a couple of 
months ago.


Anyway, it seems as though the electronic control would need to be checked.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
[SNIP]


The rack damper ONLY damps the lope that is caused by the natural
resonance that exists in the OM617.95 injection pump. It does NOT reduce
any other cause of engine roughness. Old style (silver) rack damper
screws may NOT damp the lope even when tightened all the way in!! That's
why the revised (gold) rack damper screws were designed!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.6/535 - Release Date: 11/15/2006







Re: [MBZ] 85 300D No Glow?

2006-11-16 Thread ernest breakfield
Marshall,

   excellent; thanks for clearing that up!


cheers!
e


 ernest breakfield wrote:
 Marshall,

 this document specifies '81-'84; was there something different about
 '85s, or
 does this document pre-date '85s?


 cheers!
 e


 Marshall Booth wrote:

 ned kleinhenz wrote:
 Situation:
 Son's '85 300D glow plug light does not come on.
 Outside temp is below 40F and car will not start.

 The 80A fuse in the GP control box is OK.
 I suspect it needs new glow plugs.  But please help confirm my
 diagnosis is
 probably correct.

 Two questions:

 If my memory serves me correctly -
 If the GP light does not come on, the following are the potential
 causes by
 priority:
 1. Blown fuse.
 2. At least one bad glow plug
 3. GP control system is faulty
 4. GP light is burned out.

 Is this correct?

 I expect this car probably has the newer parallel glow plug
 configuration,
 so I'm not sure how the controller behaves.
 Other question - if the glow plug light does not come on, does that
 mean the
 glow plug circuit is not activating?
 In other words, will one or more bad glow plugs prevent the entire
 glow plug
 cycle from happening?
 This attachment is appropriate for ALL of the 617.95 engines.

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   
 Name: glow8184s.pdf
glow8184s.pdfType: Acrobat (application/pdf)
 Encoding: base64

   
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 The pages I sent were published in '84. They're actually good for all of
 the diesels thru 1987 EXCEPT the mid model year '87 190D 2.5 turbos
 (that had a different controller without any fuse).

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





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