Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

2007-01-17 Thread Hans Neureiter

I think the idle should be ~ 800. There is an adjustment at the  IP, towards
the block. Kinda close quarters, but it's doable. I used a deep socket to
loosen the counter nut. Turn the slotted bolt to change the idle speed.
IIRC, CW is more, CCW is less RPM.

On 1/16/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The SDL's idle runs about 550-600 at it's lowest point and it likes to
shudder after dropping from a higher RPM.  How do I go about setting this to
the correct speed?  TIA all,

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case?
'83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale
'82 300CD (163 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine
'85 300D (280,176) parts car

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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick
Check the wiring on the rack position solenoid, too -- that engine have 
electronic idle control, and if it's not working, the mechanical idle 
speed is usually too low for smooth running.


Most common failure is the wires breaking in the three-wire plug on the 
back (rack position solenoid).


Peter




Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
The SDL idle is electronically governed. There is what looks like a test
plug near the fuse box. You adjust the idle by lifting up the cap, turning
it one way or the other  then putting it back on. From memory, one notch is
50 RPM.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hans Neureiter
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 6:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

I think the idle should be ~ 800. There is an adjustment at the  IP, towards
the block. Kinda close quarters, but it's doable. I used a deep socket to
loosen the counter nut. Turn the slotted bolt to change the idle speed.
IIRC, CW is more, CCW is less RPM.

On 1/16/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The SDL's idle runs about 550-600 at it's lowest point and it likes to
 shudder after dropping from a higher RPM.  How do I go about setting this
to
 the correct speed?  TIA all,

 --
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case?
 '83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale
 '82 300CD (163 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 4:27 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices

**  **  **   *
****   *  *  ***   U.S. Department of Energy**
  **  ** * Energy Information Administration *
**** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, **
**  **  **  **   * see the message footnotes *
 *
EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. ***
**

(NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should 
be set to view the item in an 80 character format, using a 
non-proportional font, e.g. courier)
**

  On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD
(Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes)

Diesel Prices Web URL:
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp   


  US

 NATL  EASTNEWCENTLOWER   GULF   ROCKY   WEST

 DATEAVG   COAST ENGLAND   ATL ATL   MIDWEST  COAST   MTN   COAST
CA  

   PADD   PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD   PADD

 I IA  IB  IC  II III  IV V

--  -  - ---  -   -  ---  -  -  -
-

070115  2.463  2.437  2.622   2.559   2.368   2.408   2.391  2.625  2.749
2.773
070108  2.537  2.520  2.672   2.633   2.458   2.483   2.459  2.682  2.824
2.856
070101  2.580  2.565  2.710   2.681   2.503   2.534   2.500  2.697  2.853
2.883
061225  2.596  2.587  2.737   2.710   2.520   2.550   2.514  2.713  2.856
2.885
061218  2.606  2.599  2.730   2.722   2.535   2.555   2.519  2.716  2.887
2.917
061211  2.621  2.610  2.749   2.730   2.546   2.563   2.540  2.724  2.931
2.963
061204  2.618  2.610  2.716   2.717   2.555   2.578   2.537  2.707  2.860
2.860
061127  2.567  2.537  2.634   2.652   2.479   2.554   2.490  2.680  2.760
2.710
061120  2.553  2.521  2.625   2.638   2.461   2.554   2.469  2.647  2.724
2.690
061113  2.552  2.530  2.616   2.643   2.473   2.562   2.470  2.623  2.673
2.677
061106  2.506  2.508  2.613   2.628   2.448   2.493   2.449  2.577  2.606
2.637
061030  2.517  2.530  2.629   2.646   2.472   2.501   2.462  2.577  2.602
2.645
061023  2.524  2.537  2.636   2.651   2.480   2.502   2.477  2.563  2.628
2.669
061016  2.503  2.521  2.623   2.636   2.462   2.459   2.461  2.539  2.655
2.703
061009  2.506  2.533  2.649   2.654   2.471   2.448   2.446  2.584  2.697
2.751
061002  2.546  2.567  2.678   2.694   2.503   2.467   2.490  2.679  2.789
2.835
060925  2.595  2.600  2.730   2.746   2.526   2.506   2.526  2.827  2.892
2.910
060918  2.713  2.699  2.832   2.844   2.625   2.624   2.636  3.052  3.014
3.002
060911  2.857  2.826  2.955   2.958   2.757   2.787   2.770  3.236  3.137
3.125
060904  2.967  2.911  3.009   3.032   2.850   2.937   2.872  3.318  3.199
3.175
060828  3.027  2.955  3.035   3.074   2.897   3.026   2.923  3.346  3.229
3.200
060821  3.033  2.953  3.049   3.078   2.890   3.041   2.923  3.349  3.237
3.221
060814  3.065  3.017  3.077   3.130   2.964   3.065   2.974  3.311  3.218
3.220
060807  3.055  3.026  3.061   3.104   2.989   3.070   2.988  3.208  3.113
3.130
060731  2.980  2.958  2.991   3.030   2.924   2.988   2.925  3.052  3.066
3.093
060724  2.946  2.925  2.972   3.002   2.888   2.951   2.895  2.987  3.047
3.097
060717  2.926  2.906  2.970   2.992   2.864   2.927   2.868  2.960  3.051
3.097
060710  2.918  2.887  2.947   2.963   2.849   2.919   2.866  2.966  3.060
3.113
060703  2.898  2.874  2.948   2.951   2.834   2.887   2.845  2.958  3.056
3.119
060626  2.867  2.864  2.952   2.956   2.816   2.819   2.822  2.960  3.068
3.140
060619  2.915  2.907  2.960   2.990   2.867   2.873   2.859  3.018  3.117
3.185
060612  2.918  2.909  2.979   2.997   2.866   2.874   2.848  3.041  3.149
3.217
060605  2.890  2.881  2.969   2.992   2.825   2.837   2.805  3.043  3.159
3.227
060529  2.882  2.873  2.966   2.987   2.815   2.824   2.798  3.044  3.161
3.227
060522  2.888  2.877  2.982   2.987   2.820   2.836   2.801  3.024  3.175
3.234
060515  2.920  2.907  3.003   3.014   2.853   2.870   2.829  3.074  3.192
3.242
060508  2.897  2.884  2.972   2.983   2.834   2.841   2.814  3.054  3.180
3.244
060501  2.896  2.892  2.979   2.987   2.843   2.853   2.832  3.012  3.098
3.163
060424  2.876  2.888  2.961   2.978   2.843   2.847   2.817  2.903  3.026
3.103
060417  2.765  2.788  2.865   2.876   2.743   2.735   2.725  2.756  2.881
2.933
060410  2.654  2.676  2.769   2.767   2.629   2.614   2.601  2.680  2.812
2.881
060403  2.617  2.639  2.731   2.727   2.593   2.578   2.579  2.629  2.753
2.812
060327  2.565  

Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

2007-01-17 Thread Marshall Booth

Hans Neureiter wrote:

I think the idle should be ~ 800. There is an adjustment at the  IP, towards
the block. Kinda close quarters, but it's doable. I used a deep socket to
loosen the counter nut. Turn the slotted bolt to change the idle speed.
IIRC, CW is more, CCW is less RPM.

On 1/16/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The SDL's idle runs about 550-600 at it's lowest point and it likes to
shudder after dropping from a higher RPM.  How do I go about setting this to
the correct speed?  TIA all,


The idle (engine warm and the electric idle actuator disconnected) 
should be 570 rpm. That is set using the screw above the actuator. With 
the actuator connected, the idle should be 620 rpm. If it's a bit high 
or low it can be moved up or down by moving the plug from position 3 or 
4 either lower or higher.


If the overvoltage control fails (or it's fuse blows) or the speed 
sensor fails there will be NO electronic control of the actuator and the 
idle will run low and be a bit unstable.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
Dave,

It's not that they'll fall off, they won't. It's that the grease reduces
friction  actually causes you to over torque the bolts or nuts, causing the
bolts or studs to over stretch. This weakens them.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

I've been greasing the lug nuts/bolts on all my cars for the last 40
years. Haven't had one fall off yet. I use anti-seize now because it
is more politically correct that lithium grease. Same idea though. I
do check that they are snug now and then.

-Dave Walton

On 1/16/07, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have broken and drilled a few in my time. My car still has long bolts,
but
 I use anti-seize, yea, yea complain all you want but I have never broken a
 bolt that I installed.

 Trampas

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of John W. Reames III
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:28 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

 On Mon, 15 Jan 2007, Werner Fehlauer wrote:
  And I suspect the bolts can stand a lot of abuse, because I've never had
 one
  fail, even after I've undone a severely over-tightened one and then
  re-torqued it properly.  The M-B bolts would probably withstand 150-200
  lb-ft and still not fail, IMO.

 I've got to test this; I twisted the end off of a 1/2x3/8 husky adapter
 trying to remove lug bolts that this happened to. A week of PB blaster and
 a lot of prayer, and I will reconvene next weekend. I felt the bolt start
 to twist, and saw the head kick sideways in the hole a little. I ordered
 new shorty bolts.
 -j.



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[MBZ] Heavy lifting

2007-01-17 Thread RELNGSON
www.boeing.com/news/releases/2007/q1/070116d_pr.html


Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
Rusty,

I can understand that statement  I'm sure you can too.

Mercedes are not built with Mercedes parts, they never have been. Just look
under the hood  inside cabin and start counting all of the parts labeled
bosch, beher, becker, etc. Do the same with a Mercedes manufactured in the
70's and you will see the same mix of manufacturers. All of the wheel
bearings on my early 70's Mercedes were made in Japan. And guess what? These
same manufactures build parts for Volvo, BMW, Porsche, SAAB  VW!

So, who owns Mercedes quality? It's all of the subs who manufacture parts
for them. And except for some of the inferior junk sold at the discount auto
stores, the quality of auto parts, from engine controllers to radiators has
been trending up for years. I've been around long enough to remember the
days when you did not dare take a car with more than 60,000 miles on the
clock on the open road for fear of a breakdown. But by the time the mid-80's
models were rolling off the assembly lines, every good vehicle was going
past 100,000 miles. Now, you see cars going 200,000 or more miles without
major problems and no-one who understands cars seems to care what miles are
on a car as long as it's in good shape.

I'm sure that today's Mercedes are more reliable (better quality) than those
manufactured in the 90's and those manufactured in the 90's are more
reliable (better quality) than those manufactured in the 80's, etc, etc.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 9:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality


 Ok, all this talk of mercedes quality has me going. I must tell a true
story of the last time I was in Germany. I was meeting with a very large
Exporter of MB parts and during a break I was speaking with a 80 year old
German fella that had been with Mercedes his whole life. We were discussing
the demise of Mercedes workmanship and I said to him Mercedes sure isn't
what it once was. His reply? It never was Hmmm.




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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
Statistical Process Control (SPC) is an old system that no-one who
understands quality systems uses anymore. SPC was used to measure quality of
a product line. The problem was twofold. First, it was too little, too late
- we were measuring defect rates instead or doing something about them.
Then, we usually set up SPC at the wrong points in the process.

These days, Engineers take the more proactive approach of continuous
improvement. Some call the practice Six Sigma, the Japanese call it khizan
but the Japanese auto makers, the German Automakers and the US Automakers
all take the same basic approach to improve quality.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:37 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

The difference between US and Japanese manufacturing is that the 
Japanese USE statistical process control, the vast majority of US 
manufactures do lots of statistics and call it SPC -- there is a 
difference!

Don't know about the Germans, but I believe they tend more toward 
producing good parts than the US tendency to fish the good parts out 
from the junk.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] SDL idle shudder

2007-01-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
The SDL has electronic idle control, adjusted from the knob by the brake 
booster.


Hans Neureiter wrote:


I think the idle should be ~ 800. There is an adjustment at the  IP, towards
the block. Kinda close quarters, but it's doable. I used a deep socket to
loosen the counter nut. Turn the slotted bolt to change the idle speed.
IIRC, CW is more, CCW is less RPM.

On 1/16/07, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The SDL's idle runs about 550-600 at it's lowest point and it likes to
shudder after dropping from a higher RPM.  How do I go about setting this to
the correct speed?  TIA all,

--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) head case?
'83 300SD (242 kmi) for sale
'82 300CD (163 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine
'85 300D (280,176) parts car

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Driving safety while covered with ice

2007-01-17 Thread David Brodbeck
LarryT wrote:
 I think most truck offenses are expected to be caught at Weigh Stations - I 
 suspect the CB/CellPhone communications network keep the 18 wheelers 
 informed of the locations of radar - they know when to go fast and they know 
 when to slow down.
   

Yeah, and like any industry there's a certain percentage of scofflaws. 
At one of the properties my company owns we had a sign in the parking
lot that said, NO SEMI PARKING, NO U-TURNS.  It's gone now.  A semi
hit it while making a U-turn.

 If you want to make time get behind a 18 wheeler who is moving at your 
 comfortable speed and stay there - safely back far enough for comfort -- but 
 that's an old trick.  Course, I'm old so it works for me -   ;-)
   

I like to follow them in stop-and-go traffic.  They're good at figuring
out the average speed traffic is moving and going constantly at that
speed, instead of constantly stopping and starting.




Re: [MBZ] Heavy lifting

2007-01-17 Thread David Brodbeck
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 www.boeing.com/news/releases/2007/q1/070116d_pr.html
   

When they were test-flying that airplane earlier late last year, I had a
what the heck is that? moment when I was driving on I-5 and saw it
sitting at Boeing Field.  A couple weeks later I was sitting in a
restaurant in Tukwila and saw it fly overhead.  It looks like a 747 with
a glandular disorder.



Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread David Brodbeck
Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I'm sure that today's Mercedes are more reliable (better quality) than those
 manufactured in the 90's and those manufactured in the 90's are more
 reliable (better quality) than those manufactured in the 80's, etc, etc.
   

A lot of the complaints seem to be in the fit and finish category. 
Interior pieces falling off, paint flaking off, etc.  Those things don't
make a car unreliable, but they do really hurt its image.  It seems like
when a car maker wants to cut costs, the interior is the first place
they go.  GM's current cars, for example, drive pretty nicely but they
have the interior materials of a much cheaper vehicle.



Re: [MBZ] OT Passat Jetta in the cold

2007-01-17 Thread Curt Raymond

Hey Randy,

I wish you could have seen me laugh when I read that, then I realized you were 
serious. ;)
Anyway you and I disagree on lots but you've still got a pretty car.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 10:20:04 -0600
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Passat Jetta in the cold
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


Saw another one last night on the way home. On the back of a flatbed, 
being hauled away - nice Audi.

Don't think the fuel is an issue anymore. Gas stations have been 
required to upgrade tanks to prevent leakage so
not near as much water in the tanks as there once was. Also think 
suppliers add things in the winter to prevent
freezeup. Can remember giving my 77 Mercury a regular dose of methyl 
hydrate with each fill to prevent freezing gas
lines but have not put any in vehicles in many years. Became concerned 
that it might hurt something in fuel
injected vehicles.

I think that for cold weather it is hard to beat good old north 
american vehicles - especially trucks.

Randy in Winnipeg where it is still cold - supposed to improve a bit 
tomorrow

 
-
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
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I can't argue against the fit  finish comments.

But my 1959 220S has a wooden dash  REAL wood trim around the windows. I
bet Mercedes buyers had a fit when the fin bodies came out...

And I remember when the square line (114/115 body) came out. Everyone was
outraged at the shorter grill  the inferior quality of the interior! It
just wasn't a Mercedes anymore! Now we collect these  rave about the
quality  Mercedes craftsmanship, don't we?

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I'm sure that today's Mercedes are more reliable (better quality) than
those
 manufactured in the 90's and those manufactured in the 90's are more
 reliable (better quality) than those manufactured in the 80's, etc, etc.
   

A lot of the complaints seem to be in the fit and finish category. 
Interior pieces falling off, paint flaking off, etc.  Those things don't
make a car unreliable, but they do really hurt its image.  It seems like
when a car maker wants to cut costs, the interior is the first place
they go.  GM's current cars, for example, drive pretty nicely but they
have the interior materials of a much cheaper vehicle.

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota

2007-01-17 Thread OK Don

Don't forget those who never left the States, got the GI bill, went to
college, paid the bright youngsters to do their homework, cried over
having to take the tests, graduated (barely), and expected to be
handed a high paying job (never got it), and are now filling the halls
of the VA hospitals getting free medical care. I figure we way over
paid for that.
I have no problem with those how saw combat - we can't do enogh for
them. But to do the same for everyone who ended up in the armed
service?
May his noodly appendage do a little more than touch!

On 1/16/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At least those who were able to succeed on government largesse in our
generation with GI Bill, had to dodge bullets or maybe put lives on the
line.  I figure the gummint got off easy on that debt.  And some even
brought home a tri star when returning from deployment.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Driving safety while covered with ice

2007-01-17 Thread OK Don

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA  -  in Oklahoma???
Mass transit is I-35, bumper-to-bumper with single occupant cars
commuting to work!

On 1/15/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Kaleb, it's far too dangerous to drive when it's icy like this.  We
don't want anything to happen to you - pls. take mass transit.  ;)




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread OK Don

I remember (barely) a Road and Track article on the115 - I think it
was in 1975 when the 300D 617 came out, where they described the car
as the most over-engineered 1955 Chevy ever.



And I remember when the square line (114/115 body) came out. Everyone was
outraged at the shorter grill  the inferior quality of the interior! It
just wasn't a Mercedes anymore! Now we collect these  rave about the
quality  Mercedes craftsmanship, don't we?



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



[MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Ralph W
Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under the dash 
of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but nothing going to 
the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps to the floor is bad. 
Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've fixed a 123 from the side 
panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's too darn cold to drive without 
floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs just doesn't get it.

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
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Tom - I can't see how the slight over torque and over stretch on a lubed
thread can be anywhere near as destructive as greatly exceeding the bolt and
thread strength with 2x or 3x torque levels.
Werner

- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL


 Dave,

 It's not that they'll fall off, they won't. It's that the grease reduces
 friction  actually causes you to over torque the bolts or nuts, causing
 the
 bolts or studs to over stretch. This weakens them.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of dave walton
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:54 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

 I've been greasing the lug nuts/bolts on all my cars for the last 40
 years. Haven't had one fall off yet. I use anti-seize now because it
 is more politically correct that lithium grease. Same idea though. I
 do check that they are snug now and then.

 -Dave Walton




Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Aaron Lam

Ralph,

Fortunately these pods are among the easier ones to replace. Early
87's have two pods (a bit of a PITA to RR because of the pressed on
lock washers) and early models have a single pod which unclips easily.
They're accessible after removing the climate control unit.

-Aaron
1987 300D

On 1/16/07, Ralph W [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under the dash 
of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but nothing going to 
the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps to the floor is bad. 
Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've fixed a 123 from the side 
panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's too darn cold to drive without 
floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs just doesn't get it.




Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain

They're behind the radio.  They can be replaced through the hole if you take
it out, IIRC.  At the worst you might have to remove the ashtray and climate
control panel as well.  Nowhere near as hard as taking out the dash!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

On 1/16/07, Ralph W [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under the
dash of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but nothing
going to the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps to the
floor is bad. Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've fixed a 123
from the side panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's too darn cold to
drive without floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs just doesn't get it.

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
Don,

Yep, that was the introduction of the 3 liter, 5 cylinder engine in the 115
square line body. I'm sure you noticed that a 300D is exactly 25% larger
than a 240D engine? Mercedes took a 240D engine, grafted another cylinder
onto the back, re-clocked the crank and the 300D was born.

I even had an argument with a friend about the engine. He stated that it
could not be a 5 cylinder engine because you can't balance an engine with a
odd number of cylinders I responded with and how many cylinders does your
lawnmower have and is that an even or odd number.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

I remember (barely) a Road and Track article on the115 - I think it
was in 1975 when the 300D 617 came out, where they described the car
as the most over-engineered 1955 Chevy ever.


 And I remember when the square line (114/115 body) came out. Everyone was
 outraged at the shorter grill  the inferior quality of the interior! It
 just wasn't a Mercedes anymore! Now we collect these  rave about the
 quality  Mercedes craftsmanship, don't we?


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Twisting lug bolts

2007-01-17 Thread Curt Raymond

I have in my 190D the best lug wrench I've ever used. I found it in a BMW at 
the wrecking yard.
Its the old crank type. When I discovered it I took it over to and old Reneaut 
half buried in the mud, dug around until I found a wheel and with one swift 
kick managed to remove the rustiest lug nut I've ever seen.

Got the lug wrench, a jack and 5 working Bosch glow plugs for my 300TD for a 
'91 Ford Tempo...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 16:58:18 -0500
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Twisting lug bolts
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Leave those cheesy OE lug wrenchs in the tool roll.

Had occasion to need the lug wrench on the road a couple of weeks ago.
To my astonishment, the tool roll was still sealed in the plastic bag
from the factory.  On a 24 year old car!  I had never even looked for
the tools before.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

 
-
Any questions?  Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.
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Console (radio, ACC pusbutton unit, console cover) has to come out to 
get to it.  It's on the front side of the heater box, I don't think you 
can change it with the console in place.

You can change all but the servo inside the heater box with the console 
and underside dash covers off, it's worth it.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
I guess neither of us will ever know for sure which is more damaging. I just
know that both practices lead to over torqued lug nuts or bolts.

I can tell you that stretch bolts, like head bolts  flywheel bolts can be
easily damaged by over torquing. Also, you can measure their length to
determine of they can be re-used. Too long  you toss them, not because of
the length but because the steel is fatigued and no longer works like a
spring when the bolt is torqued.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

Tom - I can't see how the slight over torque and over stretch on a lubed 
thread can be anywhere near as destructive as greatly exceeding the bolt and

thread strength with 2x or 3x torque levels.
Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL


 Dave,

 It's not that they'll fall off, they won't. It's that the grease reduces
 friction  actually causes you to over torque the bolts or nuts, causing 
 the
 bolts or studs to over stretch. This weakens them.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of dave walton
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:54 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

 I've been greasing the lug nuts/bolts on all my cars for the last 40
 years. Haven't had one fall off yet. I use anti-seize now because it
 is more politically correct that lithium grease. Same idea though. I
 do check that they are snug now and then.

 -Dave Walton


___
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[MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Curt Raymond
So tonight the temp is predicted to hit a low of -9F.
I KNOW my 190D will start at that temp, or rather I expect it will, it starts 
perfectly well at 11F which is the coldest I've ever had opportunity to try it 
at.
Be that as it may last weekend at the hardware store I noticed a $6 Christmas 
light timer. I've always wanted to have the block heater on my car come on 
automagically so I grabbed it. Tonight I've wired it up, at 4:30am tomorrow it 
should click on so at 7am when I'm ready to leave my car should start as if it 
were a warm June day.

Thats the idea anyway. 2.5 hours is probably way more time than is actually 
needed for the engine to be reasonably warm but with my luck the cold will make 
the foolish thing keep slow time and I'll actually only get 5 minutes of heat 
before its time to go...

I'm not really worried about the car being able to start you know. I'm not even 
interested in how keeping the engine warm will reduce startup wear (although it 
probably will). No indeed I'm more interested in the fact that pre-warming the 
engine should significantly cut down on the amount of driving I have to endure 
before the heat comes on.

My wife is a bit miffed that we've spent $180,000 on a house so I have 
somewhere to plug in my car.

-Curt

In case you didn't get it from the last line I was attempting humor here. Of 
course my brand of humor does tend to be a bit dry...

 
-
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Your friend was way off base - 360/5 = 72 degrees - very do-able. Then
there are the aircraft radial engines - 5 cyl, 7 cyl (I have many
hours behind one of those), 9 cyl, etc. Now that I think about it, I
don't know of any even cylindered radial engines (excluding Wankels,
that I don't know anything about at all).


 I even had an argument with a friend about the engine. He stated that it
 could not be a 5 cylinder engine because you can't balance an engine with a
 odd number of cylinders I responded with and how many cylinders does your
 lawnmower have and is that an even or odd number.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick

It'll start unless the fuel is gelled.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread OK Don

Don't forget that you now get to buy and used lawnmowers, tillers,
trimmers, snow blowers, all sorts of other power tools. And don't
forget that you now get to replace hot water heaters, roofs, paint the
trim, pay property taxes, and all the other blessings of home
ownership!



My wife is a bit miffed that we've spent $180,000 on a house so I have 
somewhere to plug in my car.

-Curt

In case you didn't get it from the last line I was attempting humor here. Of 
course my brand of humor does tend to be a bit dry...



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
14F was about the lowest my 300D would start unassisted. By the way, you'll
do better keeping a charger on the battery. Batteries start really loosing
capacity at those temps  a charger will help keep it warm. Back when I
lived in the frigid North (western NY State), we used to buy plug-in heat
pads that would sit in the battery tray, under the battery. The pad would
keep the battery warm enough to start the car regardless of the temperature.
I wonder if they are still available.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:26 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] The big test

So tonight the temp is predicted to hit a low of -9F.
I KNOW my 190D will start at that temp, or rather I expect it will, it
starts perfectly well at 11F which is the coldest I've ever had opportunity
to try it at.
Be that as it may last weekend at the hardware store I noticed a $6
Christmas light timer. I've always wanted to have the block heater on my car
come on automagically so I grabbed it. Tonight I've wired it up, at 4:30am
tomorrow it should click on so at 7am when I'm ready to leave my car should
start as if it were a warm June day.

Thats the idea anyway. 2.5 hours is probably way more time than is actually
needed for the engine to be reasonably warm but with my luck the cold will
make the foolish thing keep slow time and I'll actually only get 5 minutes
of heat before its time to go...

I'm not really worried about the car being able to start you know. I'm not
even interested in how keeping the engine warm will reduce startup wear
(although it probably will). No indeed I'm more interested in the fact that
pre-warming the engine should significantly cut down on the amount of
driving I have to endure before the heat comes on.

My wife is a bit miffed that we've spent $180,000 on a house so I have
somewhere to plug in my car.

-Curt

In case you didn't get it from the last line I was attempting humor here. Of
course my brand of humor does tend to be a bit dry...

 
-
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
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[MBZ] 87 Mercedes Benz Turbo - $800

2007-01-17 Thread Rick Knoble
http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/263637591.html

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] The big test
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Curt
Good luck starting.  I am hoping for your temperatures here one of these
days to see if my 300D will start at below zero F without plugging it in.
I like your humour-like a good wine-dry and subtle.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:26 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] The big test

My wife is a bit miffed that we've spent $180,000 on a house so I have
somewhere to plug in my car.

-Curt

In case you didn't get it from the last line I was attempting humor here. Of
course my brand of humor does tend to be a bit dry...


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Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

I wonder if they [battery heater] are still available.


They are.  The Frankenheap's preheater system includes a battery
charger, more for warming up the battery than for putting any
charge on it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Twisting lug bolts

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

I have in my 190D the best lug wrench I've ever used.
It's the old crank type.


Our 250C has a crank-type stock lug wrench, clips into both
clips on the rear trunk wall.  It's what I use to change the
tires on _every_ MB we have, at least at home!  Wish I had more
of them.  The Frankenheap, complete with mating clips, doesn't
have one of those.  And the new factory replacement only has
the one bend in it, not two.  Takes two to get a good stomp
on the thing, just like a motorcycle kick-starter.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey
Clay, if you ever run across an ill that you cannot blame on 
minorities,

please immediately post that information to the list.  It would be very
informative.


Most problems can be blamed on a minority.  Fortunately, good people
still outnumber the f***ing idiots, but I wonder for how much longer?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Ralph W
Is there anything tricky about removing the console and ACC cover. I just 
don't want to screw up the wood. I have to pull the seats to do the seat 
upgrade anyway so I should have great access to the console.


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat



Console (radio, ACC pusbutton unit, console cover) has to come out to
get to it.  It's on the front side of the heater box, I don't think you
can change it with the console in place.

You can change all but the servo inside the heater box with the console
and underside dash covers off, it's worth it.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread ernest breakfield

tom,

   i couldn't agree with this one statement (below) any less:
So, who owns Mercedes quality? It's all of the subs who manufacture 
parts for them.



i'm responsible for any assy i offer for sale (as Mercedes should be 
with their assemblies), no matter who made the components.
it's ultimately the responsibility of Mercedes to make sure that the 
components they buy and use are up to their specifications; of course if 
they're not spec'd properly, that's their fault too.


cheers!
e



Tom Hargrave wrote:

Rusty,

I can understand that statement  I'm sure you can too.

Mercedes are not built with Mercedes parts, they never have been. Just look
under the hood  inside cabin and start counting all of the parts labeled
bosch, beher, becker, etc. Do the same with a Mercedes manufactured in the
70's and you will see the same mix of manufacturers. All of the wheel
bearings on my early 70's Mercedes were made in Japan. And guess what? These
same manufactures build parts for Volvo, BMW, Porsche, SAAB  VW!

So, who owns Mercedes quality? It's all of the subs who manufacture parts
for them. And except for some of the inferior junk sold at the discount auto
stores, the quality of auto parts, from engine controllers to radiators has
been trending up for years. I've been around long enough to remember the
days when you did not dare take a car with more than 60,000 miles on the
clock on the open road for fear of a breakdown. But by the time the mid-80's
models were rolling off the assembly lines, every good vehicle was going
past 100,000 miles. Now, you see cars going 200,000 or more miles without
major problems and no-one who understands cars seems to care what miles are
on a car as long as it's in good shape.

I'm sure that today's Mercedes are more reliable (better quality) than those
manufactured in the 90's and those manufactured in the 90's are more
reliable (better quality) than those manufactured in the 80's, etc, etc.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 9:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality


 Ok, all this talk of mercedes quality has me going. I must tell a true
story of the last time I was in Germany. I was meeting with a very large
Exporter of MB parts and during a break I was speaking with a 80 year old
German fella that had been with Mercedes his whole life. We were discussing
the demise of Mercedes workmanship and I said to him Mercedes sure isn't
what it once was. His reply? It never was Hmmm.



  


Re: [MBZ] 87 Mercedes Benz Turbo - $800

2007-01-17 Thread Ralph W
Boy it sure would be nice to have a donor car available when working on the 
new wagon!


Kaleb, come get this thing before I do something stupid.

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 87 Mercedes Benz Turbo - $800



http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/263637591.html

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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[MBZ] Quick change

2007-01-17 Thread RELNGSON
 http://www.youtube.com/v/RB-wUgnyGv0
 
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Chris K wrote:=20

=20

I like your brother.=20

=20

Yea, me too. He has strange tastes in cars, but he is a car guy.  He
loves 1970's era Cadillacs and knows a tremendous about them.=20

=20

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 134K



Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick
Well, there is a big difference between a single crank journal and 5 -- 
there are some vibration problems with 5 cylinder engines that had to 
be worked out first, mostly longitudinal rather than radial.


I don't know of any even cylinder number radials either -- mostly nines.

Longitudinal engines almost always have even numbers, they are much 
easier to balance, sixes in particular.


Lawn mower engines aren't all that balanced, and the hp output is so 
low the resultant vibration isn't much of a problem.


A single cylinder 50 hp motor has to weigh a ton or so to keep it from 
dancing under load, and that's with a huge flywheel.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Update on OT Cadillac Parts

2007-01-17 Thread Tom Hargrave
I like Caddy's too, but I'm fond of the 1964 model year.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 9:23 PM
To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Update on OT Cadillac Parts

Chris K wrote: 

 

I like your brother. 

 

Yea, me too. He has strange tastes in cars, but he is a car guy.  He
loves 1970's era Cadillacs and knows a tremendous about them. 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 134K

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Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick

Fairly easy.

Pull the carpet in the console at the rear to reveal the retaining 
screw for the wood trim around the shifter.  Remove screw and pull the 
rear of the wood trim up -- it has a pair of hooks that hold it in 
place on the front.  These disengage when the rear is high enough.  
Mirror switch fader unplug from the sockets and stay in the trim, so 
it's a bit tight.


Open ash tray and remove it.  Take out the two screws in the bottom and 
remove housing.  Under the lower edge of the upper wood trim are two 
screws.  Remove them and unhook the upper trim.


The ACC pushbutton unit is held in by a pair of screws in the corners.  
but I'm thinking there is a trim panel too -- several more screws, 
anyway.  Pull it out and unplug the two cables off the bottom.


Radio is held in by a pair of clips on the bottom at the outside lower 
edge -- I think you can pull them down with a screwdriver, but someone 
will have to chime in here, I don't remember.  Radio pulls out once 
unclipped (with faceplate on) -- unplug the harness and antenna.  You 
can also pull the faceplate with a hook behind the cassette door -- 
pull straight out on the upper left side were the connector is.  You 
can then push down the latches from the front to pull the radio.


You should be able to get to the floor servo.  In fact, you may be able 
to leave the shifter trim in place.


The wood trim is laid on aluminum sheet, it won't break easily, 
although one can pull the retainer screw clip off the rear of the 
shifter trim it it's stuck to the console -- mine was.


The console itself requires removing the switch bar, which is tricky (I 
think it goes back into the dash, but be careful, you have to flex it a 
bit and the clips are brittle), then remove the screws by the driver's 
and passengers feet (one on each side) and the two 10 mm nuts up under 
the dash.  Unclip the carpet from the plastic -- two places on each 
side where a tab fits into a slot and hooks over.


Remove the large retaining screw at the rear under where the carpet was 
and lift the rear up and unhook the two studs at dash and remove.


Not hard, but a PITA.

Peter




[MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread Werner Fehlauer
There are ways that engineers have worked out to minimize vibrations on 
odd-number cylinder engines.  Such as the 3 cylinder Smart and GM engines, 5 
cylinder German and Scandinavian cars; 7 cylinder low speed marine and 
medium speed V-18 locomotive (ALCO) engines.  Even V-6s present some 
interesting vibration issues.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality


Well, there is a big difference between a single crank journal and 5 -- 
there are some vibration problems with 5 cylinder engines that had to

be worked out first, mostly longitudinal rather than radial.

I don't know of any even cylinder number radials either -- mostly nines.

Longitudinal engines almost always have even numbers, they are much
easier to balance, sixes in particular.

Lawn mower engines aren't all that balanced, and the hp output is so
low the resultant vibration isn't much of a problem.

A single cylinder 50 hp motor has to weigh a ton or so to keep it from
dancing under load, and that's with a huge flywheel.

Peter





[MBZ] OT - VA medical care

2007-01-17 Thread Werner Fehlauer
OK Don - IMO, you're treading on some soft ground when you question the 
rights of patients in VA hospitals.  Remember the old saying they also 
serve who wait?  There were a lot of veterans of WW2, Korea, RVN, or later 
conflicts that were either fortunate not to be shot at, or were assigned to 
duties that kept them safer.  It wasn't always their own call as to where 
they served, but they all contributed to the effort, and have a right to 
share in what meager benefits that our forgetful citizens have allowed.  All 
veterans had their personal lives interrupted, careers changed, and some 
were injured, maimed, or killed.  I don't think we are wise enough to say 
who qualifies for medical care.


Werner, WB2BRB

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota



Don't forget those who never left the States, got the GI bill, went to
college, paid the bright youngsters to do their homework, cried over
having to take the tests, graduated (barely), and expected to be
handed a high paying job (never got it), and are now filling the halls
of the VA hospitals getting free medical care. I figure we way over
paid for that.
I have no problem with those how saw combat - we can't do enogh for
them. But to do the same for everyone who ended up in the armed
service?
May his noodly appendage do a little more than touch!

On 1/16/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At least those who were able to succeed on government largesse in our
generation with GI Bill, had to dodge bullets or maybe put lives on the
line.  I figure the gummint got off easy on that debt.  And some even
brought home a tri star when returning from deployment.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK





Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread David Brodbeck
Peter Frederick wrote:
 Lawn mower engines aren't all that balanced, and the hp output is so 
 low the resultant vibration isn't much of a problem.
 
 A single cylinder 50 hp motor has to weigh a ton or so to keep it from 
 dancing under load, and that's with a huge flywheel.

I remember seeing a self-launching sailplane that used a 2-cycle,
one-cylinder engine.  To reduce vibration, it had a large *external*
balance shaft.



Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

2007-01-17 Thread David Brodbeck
Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I guess neither of us will ever know for sure which is more damaging. I just
 know that both practices lead to over torqued lug nuts or bolts.

Given the choice between using anti-seize and having them slightly
over-torqued, and not using anti-seize and not being able to get them
off later, I'll take the anti-seize.



Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Werner Fehlauer
And remember to have the radio code handy, as when the power is removed, it 
will become inop until you re-enter the correct code!


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat



Fairly easy.

Pull the carpet in the console at the rear to reveal the retaining
screw for the wood trim around the shifter.  Remove screw and pull the
rear of the wood trim up -- it has a pair of hooks that hold it in
place on the front.  These disengage when the rear is high enough.
Mirror switch fader unplug from the sockets and stay in the trim, so
it's a bit tight.

Open ash tray and remove it.  Take out the two screws in the bottom and
remove housing.  Under the lower edge of the upper wood trim are two
screws.  Remove them and unhook the upper trim.

The ACC pushbutton unit is held in by a pair of screws in the corners.
but I'm thinking there is a trim panel too -- several more screws,
anyway.  Pull it out and unplug the two cables off the bottom.

Radio is held in by a pair of clips on the bottom at the outside lower
edge -- I think you can pull them down with a screwdriver, but someone
will have to chime in here, I don't remember.  Radio pulls out once
unclipped (with faceplate on) -- unplug the harness and antenna.  You
can also pull the faceplate with a hook behind the cassette door -- 
pull straight out on the upper left side were the connector is.  You

can then push down the latches from the front to pull the radio.

You should be able to get to the floor servo.  In fact, you may be able
to leave the shifter trim in place.

The wood trim is laid on aluminum sheet, it won't break easily,
although one can pull the retainer screw clip off the rear of the
shifter trim it it's stuck to the console -- mine was.

The console itself requires removing the switch bar, which is tricky (I
think it goes back into the dash, but be careful, you have to flex it a
bit and the clips are brittle), then remove the screws by the driver's
and passengers feet (one on each side) and the two 10 mm nuts up under
the dash.  Unclip the carpet from the plastic -- two places on each
side where a tab fits into a slot and hooks over.

Remove the large retaining screw at the rear under where the carpet was
and lift the rear up and unhook the two studs at dash and remove.

Not hard, but a PITA.

Peter





[MBZ] Number of Cylinders WAS Re: Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread kevin kraly

and how many cylinders does your
lawnmower have and is that an even or odd number.

That's a great one, Tom!  My little single cylinder 2 stroke 20% 
nitromethane burnin' beast of an RC monstertruck was revving at nearly 
3RPM without blowing apart!  Unlike many full size vehicles on the 
icy/snowy roads today, the truck did very well and had little difficulty 
going in the direction I steered it.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick
No radio code problems if the key is off when the radio is removed and 
the alarm is not set.


I didn't have any need to use it when I did my TE.  I did on my 
sister's Volvo though, maybe I got lucky.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Number of Cylinders WAS Re: Mercedes Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick

Yeah, the 1/4 stroke makes a difference!

Don't try that with a John Deere 2 cylinder.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread kevin kraly
My wife is a bit miffed that we've spent $180,000 on a house so I have 
somewhere to plug in my car.


Funny indeed!  I want another house with an oversized 3 car garage to fit 
the 300SD with enough room to work on it as well as room enough for the 
Dodge pickup and our recumbent tandem bike.  A nice workbench for working on 
car parts and, of course, the little RC cars as well would be ideal.  It's 
gonna be just a BIT more than $180K though!


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula who's started reliably without a block heater 
down to 15F which is as cold as it's gotten here 





Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey
odd-number cylinder engines.  Such as the 3 cylinder Smart and GM 
engines, 5

cylinder German and Scandinavian cars; 7 cylinder low speed marine and
medium speed V-18 locomotive (ALCO) engines.


Near as I can tell, 18 is an even number!  :-)

I used to think it mattered a lot, but I think less so now.  Nothing
particularly special about an I-6, two jugs moving in tandem, three
sets of 'em.  Just that there's always two overlapping flames going
on somewhere in the bunch, and the torque is always applied through
the same crank angles.  (Unless my mental movie is haywire again.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

Is there anything tricky about removing the console and ACC cover.


If it's anything like the 126, there are a number of now-brittle
plastic clips in and on the console and its guts.  Be careful to
find and release them and you'll be OK.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Zoltan Finks

Have you seen those pulley operated hanging devices for bicycles in garages?
Gets them up at ceiling level. MIght be good for a recumbent.

Brian

Kevin wrote:

I want another house with an oversized 3 car garage to fit
the 300SD with enough room to work on it as well as room enough for the
Dodge pickup and our recumbent tandem bike.


[MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Zoltan Finks

Okay, I know there's been a lot of OT lately (which I think keeps things
fun), but I want to draw upon the knowledge our discriminating collective:

As new-build houses go, how can one tell if a house is built with quality as
opposed to corner-cutting cheapness? I know that new techniques are being
used, such as a few pieces of plywood bonded together to make a 2 x 4. Is
stuff like that okay, and what else is there to look out for?

Brian


Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Jeff Zedic

Sorry about that Ralph! I knew about the pod being bad and thought it was a
bear to do so didn't bother with it. If I'd known I wouldn't have had cold
feet all the time...live and learn

Jeff Zedic
London


Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread Jeff Zedic

I wonder how VW has done it with te engine I saw in a Passat the other day.
It's a V5! Yes, I read t twice just to be sure!

Big badge on the back saying V5we also have a golf station wagon here.
Never seen one of those before!

Jeff Zedic
London
Enjoying the new cars


Re: [MBZ] OT: volvo transmission

2007-01-17 Thread Jeff Zedic

A couple of days ago I saw a six door Volvo 760 series. Well, it lokked like
the 740/760 series. Looked factory too!

Jeff Zedic
London


Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

2007-01-17 Thread dave walton

That's good to know. Easy enough to measure now and then. Might as
well do it right. I ran into the same thing with head bolts and rod
connecting bolts.

Thanks

-Dave Walton

On 1/16/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Dave,

It's not that they'll fall off, they won't. It's that the grease reduces
friction  actually causes you to over torque the bolts or nuts, causing the
bolts or studs to over stretch. This weakens them.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 7:54 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

I've been greasing the lug nuts/bolts on all my cars for the last 40
years. Haven't had one fall off yet. I use anti-seize now because it
is more politically correct that lithium grease. Same idea though. I
do check that they are snug now and then.

-Dave Walton

On 1/16/07, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have broken and drilled a few in my time. My car still has long bolts,
but
 I use anti-seize, yea, yea complain all you want but I have never broken a
 bolt that I installed.

 Trampas

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of John W. Reames III
 Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:28 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

 On Mon, 15 Jan 2007, Werner Fehlauer wrote:
  And I suspect the bolts can stand a lot of abuse, because I've never had
 one
  fail, even after I've undone a severely over-tightened one and then
  re-torqued it properly.  The M-B bolts would probably withstand 150-200
  lb-ft and still not fail, IMO.

 I've got to test this; I twisted the end off of a 1/2x3/8 husky adapter
 trying to remove lug bolts that this happened to. A week of PB blaster and
 a lot of prayer, and I will reconvene next weekend. I felt the bolt start
 to twist, and saw the head kick sideways in the hole a little. I ordered
 new shorty bolts.
 -j.



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Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread kevin kraly

pulley operated hanging devices for bicycles in garages?

My parents have some to hang their bikes, and they aren't even at head level 
since their garage has a 12' ceiling!  Our garage ceiling is only 9' or so, 
not high enough to hang this one without it being in the way.  It's built 
using two bikes fitted together side by side with a special kit comprised of 
bars, cables and turnbuckles to keep things tight.  The front handlebars 
steer in tandem via a tie rod and a piece mounted to each stem.  It's far 
more comfortable than a standard bike, and much safer too.  A slightly used 
demo model cost me $300 more than the 300SD!


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread kevin kraly
Yes, VW does make a V5 engine, an earlier 2.3L 10v and a later 2.5L 20V DOHC 
version.  Here's everything you ever wanted to know about the V5 engine 
configuration.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V5_engine

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





[MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

Well, I've finally found that point where as Marshall describes it:
Everything must be perfect for cold weather starting.  I started yesterday
morning at like 15F without issue.  This morning it was about 5F.  At that
point, I have now experienced what cold weather starting is in my 83' 300D.
It DID start, but it took some effort.  I think I may be able to start
quicker next time.
NORMALLY, if it's like 20F or lower I'll let it glow for around 10-15
seconds longer than the light says, hold the pedal to the floor and crank
until it starts at which point I let off the fuel proportionately as it
starts speeding up to keep it at a fast idle.  It won't idle on it's own for
a minute or two.
HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF the
fuel...  My startup went like this:
Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25 seconds
with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather slowly)
and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying out
again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press my
luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and again it
slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.  So I
took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming to
life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a few
seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.  I'm
just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my 15 minute trip to
work with the defrosters and headlights and what not on.
This would NOT have been possible with an iffy battery for sure.  I
couldn't believe that even this new one had that sort of power in it.  (and
yes I have M1 15w-50 in there).

So, at this point I guess I'll plan on using the block heater if it's
supposed to go into single digits. and see if I can notice a difference
(cause I didn't notice a difference at around 20F).

The other potential problem is that for some reason when temps around
somewhere below around 20F my wipers turn into EXTREMELY slow or maybe even
stop.  It did it the other day, but then it's been fine this week, but this
morning they did need my help to actually make it back to rest.

Levi


[MBZ] 1972 220D

2007-01-17 Thread ts
Anyone interested in an Automatic  220D 199K miles, only 48K on a Mercedes 
rebuilt engine.  Car is in very good shape.  All service records, no major 
rust one family since new.  Email me at work only
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   for all details (not going to answer any 
questions in this forum please) Budget price on car is $2,500.  Car has had 
a full mechanical inspection by an MB independent shop.  Car located in 
Southern AL, but is drivable anywhere and would be a great daily driver. 
Car has a block heater. Not a Katrina car. Fine example of a 615, early 115 
chassis.  yes all HVAC fans work.


Regards Tom Scordato





Re: [MBZ] OT - VA medical care

2007-01-17 Thread Billr
Don - I recognize the direction you seemed to be going with your comment,
mainly [I think] that there are many people who have easier / better lives
due to government programs - not just legal/illegal immigrants.  My wife
worked at a VA and many of the patients did have conditions that were
entirely unrelated to any military service they might have done, but that
promise is part of the pay.  On this one I have to agree pretty strongly
with Werner.  My son worked as a diesel mechanic in Pakistan [his most
dangerous assignment], Kyrgyzstan, Iraq and Kuwait, his wife did the same in
Qatar.  All this in 5 years of marriage.  He was only shot at while trying
to deploy in Pakistan, but while his assignments were pretty safe his
separation from his wife [nearly half of their life together] was just as
real, and the importance of what he did for the effort was just as real [ask
anyone deployed in a fighting unit who ever had their vehicle breakdown].
Of all people I am sure you do not have bad feelings about the military, but
I believe you got into some unintended areas here.  I'm almost tempted to
tell how warm it has been here while you have been shoveling snow and
scraping ice.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 284k miles  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT - VA medical care

OK Don - IMO, you're treading on some soft ground when you question the
rights of patients in VA hospitals.  Remember the old saying they also
serve who wait?  There were a lot of veterans of WW2, Korea, RVN, or later
conflicts that were either fortunate not to be shot at, or were assigned to
duties that kept them safer.  It wasn't always their own call as to where
they served, but they all contributed to the effort, and have a right to
share in what meager benefits that our forgetful citizens have allowed.  All
veterans had their personal lives interrupted, careers changed, and some
were injured, maimed, or killed.  I don't think we are wise enough to say
who qualifies for medical care.

Werner, WB2BRB

- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota


 Don't forget those who never left the States, got the GI bill, went to
 college, paid the bright youngsters to do their homework, cried over
 having to take the tests, graduated (barely), and expected to be
 handed a high paying job (never got it), and are now filling the halls
 of the VA hospitals getting free medical care. I figure we way over
 paid for that.
 I have no problem with those how saw combat - we can't do enogh for
 them. But to do the same for everyone who ended up in the armed
 service?
 May his noodly appendage do a little more than touch!

 On 1/16/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 At least those who were able to succeed on government largesse in our
 generation with GI Bill, had to dodge bullets or maybe put lives on the
 line.  I figure the gummint got off easy on that debt.  And some even
 brought home a tri star when returning from deployment.


 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK


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Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Mitch Haley


kevin kraly wrote:
 
 Funny indeed!  I want another house with an oversized 3 car garage to fit
 the 300SD with enough room to work on it as well as room enough for the
 Dodge pickup and our recumbent tandem bike.  A nice workbench for working on
 car parts and, of course, the little RC cars as well would be ideal.  It's
 gonna be just a BIT more than $180K though!

I looked at a foreclosure yesterday. One acre, fairly new 36x24 garage
with insulation and furnace, two carpeted rooms in the corner of the
garage, one with a big bench. Also comes with a small 2 bedroom house
and a storage shed. Freddie Mac wants $40k for it. House is old, but
doesn't look bad from the outside. I've got to get the keybox combo
and go back today.



[MBZ] [OT] P/M/W (was Mercedes Quality vs Toyota)

2007-01-17 Thread jwreames
Not much longer; in America we are engaging in a selective breeding campaign; 
we espouse abstinence and waiting, so those few good people do that, resulting 
in fewer kids.  The less-than good folks (ie the self-centered idiots to whom 
nothing in this world applies (except entitlement programs)) go ahead and have 
lots of kids (this would be a litter, right?) (whether it is to further their 
entitlements or just because they dont care)... so the idiots are 
out-reproducing the non-idiots. Couple that with the ongoing campaign to repeal 
the laws of natural selection (courtesy of all the lawsuits and safety warnings 
as a result of injuries caused by failure to utilize common sense...) 

Anyhow, Y'all can smell what I'm stepping in.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Most problems can be blamed on a minority. Fortunately, good people 
 still outnumber the f***ing idiots, but I wonder for how much longer? 
 
 -- Jim 
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From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather
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Hi Levi,
  The wonderful cold has finally come to visit usMy diesel van 
absolutely refused to start this AM.Even with the block heater on all 
night.  I am wondering if the block heater quit in the night as I couldn't 
hear it running and I usually can...Was too cold to mess with it until I 
get the batteries charged back upToni let it crank until they were 
dead as a stone.GGGRR  One of her coworkers came and picked her 
upGuess I'll have to fire up the old M37 to go get her from 
work.Hope the old flathead will go with straight 30W oil in 
her..

MAN, IT'S COLD OUT!!

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 6:09 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Cold Weather


 Well, I've finally found that point where as Marshall describes it:
 Everything must be perfect for cold weather starting.  I started 
 yesterday
 morning at like 15F without issue.  This morning it was about 5F.  At that
 point, I have now experienced what cold weather starting is in my 83' 
 300D.
 It DID start, but it took some effort.  I think I may be able to start
 quicker next time.
 NORMALLY, if it's like 20F or lower I'll let it glow for around 10-15
 seconds longer than the light says, hold the pedal to the floor and crank
 until it starts at which point I let off the fuel proportionately as it
 starts speeding up to keep it at a fast idle.  It won't idle on it's own 
 for
 a minute or two.
 HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF the
 fuel...  My startup went like this:
 Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25 
 seconds
 with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather 
 slowly)
 and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying out
 again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press my
 luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
 seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and again 
 it
 slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.  So 
 I
 

Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread jwreames
It was a balmy 20F here this morning (okay so it is the coldest that it has 
been so far this winter, most of it was above 50 so far) but Hans started up 
quite easily without any extra glow cycles and without plugging in. (Of course 
I was cold as *^*^* until it warmed up)

BTW, whats the lifetime on the plastic screw-on 2 bar radiator caps (A la W210)
-j
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Hi Levi, 
 The wonderful cold has finally come to visit usMy diesel van 
 absolutely refused to start this AM.Even with the block heater on all 
 night. I am wondering if the block heater quit in the night as I couldn't 
 hear it running and I usually can...Was too cold to mess with it until I 
 get the batteries charged back upToni let it crank until they were 
 dead as a stone.GGGRR One of her coworkers came and picked her 
 upGuess I'll have to fire up the old M37 to go get her from 
 work.Hope the old flathead will go with straight 30W oil in 
 her.. 
 
 MAN, IT'S COLD OUT!! 
 
 Mike 
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www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/tech_engine_packaging.htm

On 1/17/07, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes, VW does make a V5 engine, an earlier 2.3L 10v and a later 2.5L 20V
 DOHC
 version.  Here's everything you ever wanted to know about the V5 engine
 configuration.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V5_engine

 Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula


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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] [OT] P/M/W (was Mercedes Quality vs Toyota)

2007-01-17 Thread Ed Booher

On 1/17/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not much longer; in America we are engaging in a selective breeding campaign; we espouse 
abstinence and waiting, so those few good people do that, resulting in fewer kids.  The 
less-than good folks (ie the self-centered idiots to whom nothing in this world applies 
(except entitlement programs)) go ahead and have lots of kids (this would be a 
litter, right?) (whether it is to further their entitlements or just because 
they dont care)... so the idiots are out-reproducing the non-idiots. Couple that with the 
ongoing campaign to repeal the laws of natural selection (courtesy of all the lawsuits 
and safety warnings as a result of injuries caused by failure to utilize common sense...)


You need to see a movie called Idiocracy. It's about just that
problem. Fairly hilarious in places, but very literally brain dead in
others.

--
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.



Re: [MBZ] The Big Test

2007-01-17 Thread Dan Weeks


On Jan 16, 2007, at 8:34 PM, Curt wrote:


Of course my brand of humor does tend to be a bit dry...


Ayuh.


Dan Weeks
Originally from Maine
Freelance Writer and Photographer
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Dan Weeks
Freelance Writer and Photographer
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Billr
Brian - Part of trying to answer would be knowing if you are looking over an
already constructed home or starting to build one and want to make sure they
are doing things correctly.  The problem areas for me in homes have been
electrical:
- do you want dual lines to ceiling fans to control fan / light from the
switch; adequate plugs / breaker box; build in a generator matrix so you can
easily use it [input box for the generator and a list of which switches to
have on/off].  I had a house that had all the electrical outlets mounted
flush with the joists [idiot subcontractor].  Drywall application left all
of them with 3/4 of play on plug in.   I have seen phone lines pulled so
tight they would not stay on.  These things need such constant supervision
that the only way to make sure most is done correctly is to spend all day
every day at the site, or hire someone to do that [I know, that's what a
contractor is supposed to do].
As for the soundness of a house you are buying I have used inspection
companies on every purchase.  $700 for the last one, but we got a through
list of everything about the house, so few surprises.  Otherwise check on
quality of the finish carpentry, check to make sure the roof has the proper
clips to keep it on during whatever big blows you have in your area.  If you
are doing a shop / garage area you might want to have it constructed as a
shell so you can do the design yourself.
Just the start ... I'm sure there are others with shop specific advice and
more experience than I have.
BillR
Jacksonville FL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 4:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

Okay, I know there's been a lot of OT lately (which I think keeps things
fun), but I want to draw upon the knowledge our discriminating collective:

As new-build houses go, how can one tell if a house is built with quality as
opposed to corner-cutting cheapness? I know that new techniques are being
used, such as a few pieces of plywood bonded together to make a 2 x 4. Is
stuff like that okay, and what else is there to look out for?

Brian
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Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Curt Raymond

With a good battery and everything in perfect order my 240D would start at 
-10F. The 190D starts easier at 10F than the 240D did so I expect it'll be able 
to start at even colder minimum temps.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 20:37:27 -0600
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The big test
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

14F was about the lowest my 300D would start unassisted. By the way, 
you'll
do better keeping a charger on the battery. Batteries start really 
loosing
capacity at those temps  a charger will help keep it warm. Back when I
lived in the frigid North (western NY State), we used to buy plug-in 
heat
pads that would sit in the battery tray, under the battery. The pad 
would
keep the battery warm enough to start the car regardless of the 
temperature.
I wonder if they are still available.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924

  
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 Browse Top Cars by Green Rating at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.  
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Started just like it was July. I didn't even give it a full glow cycle as I was 
curious to see what it would do.
The temp needle was climbing almost before I got out of the driveway. I had 
heat in less than a mile and had to turn down the blower about 10 minutes 
before I usually do.

I'd like to see some snow... So far this car handles really well on the ice. 
Fred Moir gave me 3 wheels that I'd intended to mount snow tires on but they're 
still in the trunk where we put them when I picked 'em up. The extra weight 
seems (so far) to be plenty.
Of course the first year I drove the 240D it was fine in the snow. The second 
year I had it I was all over the road so I bought snows for all 4 wheels and 
drove it that way for 2 more years...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 21:52:07 -0500
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The big test
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt
Good luck starting.  I am hoping for your temperatures here one of 
these
days to see if my 300D will start at below zero F without plugging it 
in.
I like your humour-like a good wine-dry and subtle.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI

 
-
Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peak at the forecast 
 with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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Re: [MBZ] OT - VA medical care

2007-01-17 Thread OK Don

You are both correct - I did overstep the bounds. I apologize.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Governer question

2007-01-17 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 1/15/2007 10:21:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Since  the air intake is essentially wide open on a diesel (vac 
governors  excluded, but have the same effect), something has to control 
engine  speed.

The governor combines the engine speed with the accelerator  position 
to determine fuel delivery.  As engine speed drops for any  given pedal 
position, the governor weights will drive inwards under the  influence 
of the return springs and rack return spring to rotate the  sleeves in 
the IP to give more fuel delivery.

Yes, it does indeed  work like a speed control, although it won't change 
the accelerator  position -- the accelerator linkage will over-ride the 
governor towards  more or less fuel.   The main effect of the governor 
is idle and  low speed operation, where lots of fuel is needed to get 
moving, but a  large change is speed is not desired.  It will also help 
to maintain  speed on the highway, within rather small limits.

Needless to say, this  isn't quite a simple as that (although not a 
complex as the gasoline  injection pumps!), but what you will get with 
new bushings is better speed  and throttle control -- the engine will 
not hunt for speed, for  instance, and won't lag or run on when you 
either press down or lift up  the accelerator.



Peter,
 
If we are talking pre computer controlled Mercedes diesels, such as  the  617 
turbo diesel, you are totally wrong!  The governer does   not have any 
function between idle and full rpm.  The only things that  control engine speed 
are 
the load, and the position of the fuel rack.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Tony Wirtel


Okay, I know there's been a lot of OT lately (which I think keeps things
fun), but I want to draw upon the knowledge our discriminating collective:

As new-build houses go, how can one tell if a house is built with quality as
opposed to corner-cutting cheapness? I know that new techniques are being
used, such as a few pieces of plywood bonded together to make a 2 x 4. Is
stuff like that okay, and what else is there to look out for?

Brian


Brian- My take?  There have been too many latest and greatest wood
laminates that have come and gone, mostly after owners find that they
fall apart and/or spontaneously combust.  Build quality is typically
so bad today that new houses with critical failures such as roof leaks
are more the norm than the exception.

Across the road from where I am theres a new collection of McMansions.
Cost ranges from the cheapie at $800k for the poor folk to the
model at 1.2million.  On the inside you can see how out of plumb the
walls are thanks in part to the wallpaper selected.  Occasional creaks
in the floor, bad trim work, sloppy paint most everywhere.  On the
outside, wavy siding with gaps in the corners and in the j-channel
near windows.  Hope you like the $2.00 Home Depot special lights out
back!  Oh, and in that model you get a kitchen with cheap looking
formica counters.  All the doors are plastic- the kind that start
warping in 5-10 years or so.  CanNOT get wood as an upgrade.   This
model has an unfinished basement where a non-trained eye can see short
cuts all over the place

And the crowning achievement?  The vista out the cathedral-ceilinged
living room is the cooling towers of a nuclear plant 8 miles away.

Sorry for the tangent- BUT the point (and there is a point) is that
with engineered lumbar trusses this and most other houses now use,
water leaks (or poor ventilation) can create spaces with sufficient
moisture that these beams will loose integrity- depending on how much
moisture and how much time.  The products may be based on good theory,
but there are so many things that MUST be done correctly as part of
installation that are not likely to that the odds of long term success
are not good.  Finally, in talking to people who do permits in our
township there are already problems.  The oldest of these houses are
18 months old.

I'm confident that our old and creaky 200 year old house will be here
in another 40-50 years when these houses across the way are being torn
down.

Tony Wirtel
1805 farmhouse (decrepit by modern standards), 85 300sd (just plain
decrepit), 92 300e (decent)



Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread Allan Streib
kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Yes, VW does make a V5 engine, an earlier 2.3L 10v and a later 2.5L
 20V DOHC version.

They also make a W 12.  Basically two V6 blocks over one crank.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread degcoast
Yes-so did my 300D 2.5-it was 10F and no hint of winter.  I am assuming I will 
never have to uncoil the block heater plug.  Almost disappointing as starting 
the 240D is more exciting and involves manly skills like tweaking the cold 
idle, double glow, etc.

How cold was it in N. MA this AM?
Dwight
 Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 
 Started just like it was July. 


 Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
 1979 240D-250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
 Wickford, RI
 
  
 -
 Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peak at the forecast 
  with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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--
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
Wickford, RI



Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-17 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Yes, 18 is an even number, but a V-18 engine has 9 cylinders on each side! 
(similar to a V-6, with 3 on a side, also not as balanced as an I-6)

Werner


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders



odd-number cylinder engines.  Such as the 3 cylinder Smart and GM
engines, 5
cylinder German and Scandinavian cars; 7 cylinder low speed marine and
medium speed V-18 locomotive (ALCO) engines.


Near as I can tell, 18 is an even number!  :-)

I used to think it mattered a lot, but I think less so now.  Nothing
particularly special about an I-6, two jugs moving in tandem, three
sets of 'em.  Just that there's always two overlapping flames going
on somewhere in the bunch, and the torque is always applied through
the same crank angles.  (Unless my mental movie is haywire again.)

-- Jim





Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Peter - YMMV, as they say, but on the '90 300D here, changing out a battery 
slowly (took time to clean out under the tray), I needed the code to get the 
radio working again.  Thankfully, my dealer service writer and I are on good 
terms, so he looked it up in the MBUSA database, and gave it to me over the 
phone.
The car was in the garage, hadn't been run in a while, and not locked (alarm 
not set), and when the battery power was restored, the nasty word CODE 
appeared on the front panel of the radio.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat



No radio code problems if the key is off when the radio is removed and
the alarm is not set.

I didn't have any need to use it when I did my TE.  I did on my
sister's Volvo though, maybe I got lucky.

Peter





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

with engineered lumbar trusses this and most other houses now use,
water leaks (or poor ventilation) can create spaces with sufficient
moisture that these beams will loose integrity- depending on how much
moisture and how much time.


True also of wood, but it takes a lot longer!  In theory you notice
the puddling or whatever and can correct the leak before it does real
damage.  Water kills houses, pure and simple.  The choice of materials
sets the schedule, 'Sauder' houses just won't last.

When I had my 6-car garage extension added I specified plywood, not
OSB.  Cost more, but I wanted the extension to look like it had always
been there, and OSB was not in use in the 70's.  Also, the house, for
all its flaws, is holding up well.  Nothing wrong with construction
quality, though it was 'inexpensive'.  (I spoke with the original
owner, as she's from whom I bought the house.)

Even in the Wood Pavilion I used plywood roof sheathing, not OSB.
I used 'blows', figuring that even as rejects they'd probably hold
up longer over time than OSB would.  Also, plywood is a bad enough
stylistic match to the otherwise all-pole rustic construction, OSB
would have been too disgusting.  (Lap or TG sheathing was just too
impractical.)


I'm confident that our old and creaky 200 year old house will be here
in another 40-50 years when these houses across the way are being torn
down.


Unless they zone or e-d you to death.

-- Jim




[MBZ] What do you know -- Snow tires do work

2007-01-17 Thread Donald Snook
Some of you remember a few weeks ago I asked about snow tires on my 126.
My Indy told me they would not work very well and I thought that was BS.
Well, you all agreed.  A lot of the mid west is dealing with the recent
storm and here in Wichita, we are not exception.   We didn't get any ice
only sleet.  The sleet piled up and it wasn't difficult to get around.
Then, a slight slaw occurred and the sleet turned into a solid chunk of
frozen stuff.  Its not ice, but it is nearly as slick.  Anyway, I drove
my 126 for the first time through the frozen stuff with the new snow
tires and it did great!  No problem at all.  Just plowed right through
it. 

 

By the way, I almost forgot what it is like to wonder if your Diesel
benz will start.  I may have crappy mileage and have to deal with other
issues of maintenance associated with gas cars, but I don't have to
worry about my gasser 126 starting.   I do like that. 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 134K 



Re: [MBZ] Governer question

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

If we are talking pre computer controlled Mercedes diesels,
such as the 617 turbo diesel, you are totally wrong!  The governor
does not have any function between idle and full rpm.  The only
things that control engine speed are the load, and the position
of the fuel rack.


I disagree.  It's possible to build diesel governors that have throttle
responses anywhere from gasser acceleration models to pure tractor-like
fixed RPM settings.  The relative strength of the two springs that 
couple

the throttle rod and the governor to the fuel rack determine this.  The
governor in the 200D Frankenheap is very tractor-like, it pretty much
accelerates all-out (ha!) to the rpm corresponding to the throttle pedal
position.  You could probably get a pretty tolerable cruise control with
just a throttle lock.  And this from a vacuum governor.  Just MHO, no
actual diesel mechanics were harmed during the forming of this opinion.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey

I looked at a foreclosure yesterday. One acre, fairly new 36x24 garage
with insulation and furnace, two carpeted rooms in the corner of the
garage, one with a big bench. Also comes with a small 2 bedroom house
and a storage shed. Freddie Mac wants $40k for it. House is old, but
doesn't look bad from the outside. I've got to get the keybox combo
and go back today.


Sounds promising.  24x36 is a nice 3-car size, into which you can
usually jam two more toy cars sideways at the front if you don't
cram it too full of other crap.  We have four in our 3-car garage
right now.  The 450 SL (for sale!) lurks off the front of the
250C and 200D parking.  The poor 190D, 300D, and 300CD have to
live outside right now.  We've also been toying with the idea of
selling the 300D.  (The infamous Chicken Wagon.)

-- Jim




[MBZ] E320 CDI

2007-01-17 Thread wilton strickland
I drove behind an E320CDI yesterday.  It looks small.  How does its size
compare to a 124?

Wilton
91 350SDL, 87 300Dand




Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Jim Cathey
HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF 
the

fuel...  My startup went like this:
Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25 
seconds
with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather 
slowly)
and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying 
out
again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press 
my

luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and 
again it
slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.  
So I
took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming 
to
life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a 
few

seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.


I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has started
very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
(It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)

Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
making it any harder than I have to to start.


I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
what not on.


'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
charger for occasional overnight refreshment.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to get
out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster nor as
much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably about
10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to get
the temp up to 80C.

Levi

On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF
 the
 fuel...  My startup went like this:
 Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
 seconds
 with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
 slowly)
 and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
 out
 again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press
 my
 luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
 seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
 again it
 slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.
 So I
 took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming
 to
 life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a
 few
 seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.

I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has started
very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
(It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)

Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
making it any harder than I have to to start.

 I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
 15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
 what not on.

'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
charger for occasional overnight refreshment.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-17 Thread Potter, Tom E
Give up. I don't think it has as much to do with the quality of material
as it does with the quality of the workmanship. You will NEVER get a
well-constructed house unless YOU supervise EVERY aspect of the build.
Every builder I know hires teams of illegal aliens to do the
construction. I do not think any of them know how to use a square or
level.

When I was a teenager, I worked for a builder who demanded quality work.
If a wall was not within 1/8 inch of being square and plumb, he made you
tear it out and rebuild it on your own time. I have NOT seen such
quality work since.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

Okay, I know there's been a lot of OT lately (which I think keeps things
fun), but I want to draw upon the knowledge our discriminating
collective:

As new-build houses go, how can one tell if a house is built with
quality as
opposed to corner-cutting cheapness? I know that new techniques are
being
used, such as a few pieces of plywood bonded together to make a 2 x 4.
Is
stuff like that okay, and what else is there to look out for?

Brian
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Re: [MBZ] 124 floor heat

2007-01-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I need to do the same in my 87 300TD. Wondering if I can RR like Peter
described (I've had the replacement pods for a long time) or whether I'm
going to have to do something more difficult to get the failed one(s) out.

...Kevin

p.s. Kaleb - do you have a W123 heater blower motor you'd sell?

Aaron Lam said:
 Ralph,

 Fortunately these pods are among the easier ones to replace. Early
 87's have two pods (a bit of a PITA to RR because of the pressed on
 lock washers) and early models have a single pod which unclips easily.
 They're accessible after removing the climate control unit.

 -Aaron
 1987 300D

 On 1/16/07, Ralph W [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Can anyone give me an idea where the floor heat vacuum pod lives under
 the dash of a 124? I've got heat out the side vents and defroster but
 nothing going to the floor. I'm assuming that the pod for the heat flaps
 to the floor is bad. Can I get to this without removing the dash. I've
 fixed a 123 from the side panels. Is the 124 set up the same way? It's
 too darn cold to drive without floor heat. A hot torso and frostbit legs
 just doesn't get it.

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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-- 
Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-17 Thread Rich Thomas
There is a local guy who has been building new houses on my street the 
last couple of years (tears down the old 1kft2 cottages and puts up 
3.4kft2 new ones).  He is a stickler on all the details.  I have spent 
time with him on site, and have myself done interior trim, restoration, 
rebuilding, etc. on new and older houses.  All the contractors use 
guest workers and he watches them like a hawk, and makes sure it is 
done right.  When I have worked with these guys I have been a PITA too, 
but get good results.


Foundation and frame are the keys -- if the foundation is not level, 
square, solid nothing else will be.  The frame needs to be level, plumb, 
square as do all interior frames, doors, windows, etc. (and properly 
dimensioned).  Every night you go around with the plan, a tape, and a 
level and make sure the day's work was done properly.  If not, next 
morning Jose gets to redo it (they do learn quickly as they are paid by 
the job).  You also check the lumber that is delivered, make sure it is 
good stuff.  Make the vendor take it back if not good, give you credit 
or replacement.  [Materials is a cut-throat business, lots of 
competition, do not let them off easily.  Get to know your sales guy and 
make him perform.]  OSB is OK for sheathing but ply is better.  Decking 
should be TG ply, glued and nailed or screwed (this adds some work and 
cost but will insure the floor is tight and does not squeak).  Check 
rough stairs closely (glue on these too).  Make sure the walls are 
straight, no warps, twists, bows, etc. -- this raises hell with 
cabinets, doors, tile, trim, etc.


After the house is closed in then you watch the electricians and 
plumbers closely.  A master should check all the work that the guest 
workers do, and you check him.  If it is not right, it gets redone to 
spec (you would be surprised how many of the trades are smarter than 
the architects or the owner or builder).  Pay close attention to where 
outlets and switches are and what wires run where.  It is hard to fix 
once the sheetrock is up.


The rest of it is fairly easy.  On bathrooms go with cement board, not 
greenboard (sheetrock) if codes allows it.  Might cost a little bit 
more, but it will last forever.  Thinset for tiles, not adhesive.  Check 
the trim guys to make sure their joints are tight and fit right.  
Painters can make up for some but the work should be good to begin 
with.  Check installed door frames for good door fit (uniform gaps).  
Use quality hardware in your cabinets if you have site-built cabs.  Most 
cabinets today are expensive and cheaply made though they might look 
nice.  Site-built stuff is a similar cost and should be better if you 
get a good carpenter (here the guest workers seem to do well, I think 
there is some pride in craftsmanship).  Here is where you want to 
focus.  Choke on the cost and go with stone or dense plastic for 
countertops, use quality fixtures and sinks and appliances.  These will 
have the highest payback when you go to sell, and will last well.  You 
will enjoy them.


Quality materials costs add only a small fraction to the total cost, and 
will last much longer than cheap stuff.  Get to know your buidling 
inspector.  He can be a total PITA and your best friend too.  DO NOT go 
cheap on stuff.  If you can't do it right and well, don't do it at all.  
Expect your budget to have some overruns.  If you are buying an 
already-built house, you're on your own.  I would find some that are a 
couple years old by the same builder, go look at them and talk to the 
owners.  Also find some that are currently under construction and check 
them closely.  Don't fall in love with how the house looks.  Paint and 
stuff can cover up a lot of faults.


One other thing - if you are building on your own, you might look into 
hiring a construction manager rather than a builder, and doing your own 
general contracting and bill paying.  The CM can ride herd while you 
deal with GM issues.  Around us there are some of these guys who are 
school teachers, they get off work at 3:30-4 or so, go to the job site 
and kick around an hour or two, stop by in the morning.  I talked to 
one, he charges $25k as his fee (on a say $250-350k construction cost) 
and guarantees the work.  Being a GM can be a pain, but you can also 
save a lot ($75-100k on a $500k house).  Your costs will of course vary 
by your situation, but these are some guidelines.  You also need to have 
the job scheduled well, trades and materials lined up -- time is money.  
I see my buddy get a house from teardown to move-in in 4 months, while 
others on the street are still half done with guys coming and going 
randomly and not a lot happening.


--R



Potter, Tom E wrote:

Give up. I don't think it has as much to do with the quality of material
as it does with the quality of the workmanship. You will NEVER get a
well-constructed house unless YOU supervise EVERY aspect of the build.
Every builder I know hires teams of illegal 

[MBZ] foreclosure was Re: The big test

2007-01-17 Thread Rick Knoble

I looked at a foreclosure yesterday. One acre, fairly new 36x24 garage
with insulation and furnace, two carpeted rooms in the corner of the
garage, one with a big bench. Also comes with a small 2 bedroom house
and a storage shed. Freddie Mac wants $40k for it. House is old, but
doesn't look bad from the outside. I've got to get the keybox combo
and go back today.


What's the unemployment rate in MI now-a-days? Around 10-12%? There may be 
more of them there foreclosures soon...

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT




[MBZ] V8 Table

2007-01-17 Thread Rich Thomas
Of course this would have to be a Benz block, perhaps with the head and 
cam gear, and polished up well, but I am sure the wifey would appreciate 
the art and technology and craftsmanship involved, and would want to 
have it displayed prominently in the living areas of the house.  Just 
make sure to suggest that she uses M1 to polish it (then run fast).


http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157594484820721/detail/

--R (wife gone for a few days, her birthday in 10 days, thinking, 
thinking)





Re: [MBZ] The big test

2007-01-17 Thread andrew strasfogel

Speaking of garages, today (my birthday) brings me back to a fantasy I have
had for some time:  to purchase a lift for my garage.  It would have to be
110 volts and SAFE, preferably idiot proof so my sig. other would
(grudgingly) approve.

Here is one that meets my criteria and doesn't even need to be bolted
down:
*http://tinyurl.com/2b7alt*


On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I looked at a foreclosure yesterday. One acre, fairly new 36x24 garage
 with insulation and furnace, two carpeted rooms in the corner of the
 garage, one with a big bench. Also comes with a small 2 bedroom house
 and a storage shed. Freddie Mac wants $40k for it. House is old, but
 doesn't look bad from the outside. I've got to get the keybox combo
 and go back today.

Sounds promising.  24x36 is a nice 3-car size, into which you can
usually jam two more toy cars sideways at the front if you don't
cram it too full of other crap.  We have four in our 3-car garage
right now.  The 450 SL (for sale!) lurks off the front of the
250C and 200D parking.  The poor 190D, 300D, and 300CD have to
live outside right now.  We've also been toying with the idea of
selling the 300D.  (The infamous Chicken Wagon.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread andrew strasfogel

Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.

Andrew
24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.

On 1/17/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to
get
out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster nor
as
much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably
about
10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to get
the temp up to 80C.

Levi

On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF
  the
  fuel...  My startup went like this:
  Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
  seconds
  with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
  slowly)
  and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
  out
  again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press
  my
  luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
  seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
  again it
  slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.
  So I
  took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming
  to
  life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a
  few
  seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.

 I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
 It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has started
 very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
 link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
 and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
 good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
 SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
 (It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)

 Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
 making it any harder than I have to to start.

  I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
  15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
  what not on.

 'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
 back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
 out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
 charger for occasional overnight refreshment.

 -- Jim


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread degcoast
Good point-my 10F was in southern RI.
Dwight
 andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
 identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.
 
 Andrew
  24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.
 
 On 1/17/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to
  get
  out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster nor
  as
  much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
  digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
  minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably
  about
  10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to get
  the temp up to 80C.
 
  Levi
 
  On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF
the
fuel...  My startup went like this:
Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
seconds
with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
slowly)
and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
out
again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press
my
luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
again it
slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.
So I
took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming
to
life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a
few
seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.
  
   I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
   It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has started
   very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
   link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
   and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
   good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
   SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
   (It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)
  
   Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
   making it any harder than I have to to start.
  
I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
what not on.
  
   'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
   back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
   out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
   charger for occasional overnight refreshment.
  
   -- Jim
  
  
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

--
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
Wickford, RI



Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

14843

I couldn't help but notice that you didn't include your location.  (:

Levi

On 1/17/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.

Andrew
24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.

On 1/17/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to
 get
 out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster
nor
 as
 much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
 digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
 minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably
 about
 10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to
get
 the temp up to 80C.

 Levi

 On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let
OFF
   the
   fuel...  My startup went like this:
   Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
   seconds
   with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
   slowly)
   and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
   out
   again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to
press
   my
   luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like
30
   seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
   again it
   slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying
again.
   So I
   took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started
coming
   to
   life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for
a
   few
   seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it
running.
 
  I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
  It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has
started
  very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
  link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
  and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
  good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
  SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
  (It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)
 
  Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
  making it any harder than I have to to start.
 
   I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
   15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
   what not on.
 
  'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
  back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
  out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
  charger for occasional overnight refreshment.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] OT: VW Passat

2007-01-17 Thread limon276
 Thanks for everyones help, You guys rock.  Turns out it was just a bad plug ( 
I hope ) . Check engine light was reset. Drove it about 30 miles at both high 
and slow speeds.  If there is still a problem, generally how long will it take 
for the check engine light to come back on? Thanks again.

Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security 
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free 
AOL Mail and more.


Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Mike Canfield
Good eye LeviI'm in Montour Falls, NY..Just over the hill, 
well actually over a few hills, from LeviDon't own a 
thermometer.It was cold.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather



14843

I couldn't help but notice that you didn't include your location.  (:

Levi

On 1/17/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.

Andrew
24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.

On 1/17/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping 
 to

 get
 out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster
nor
 as
 much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
 digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
 minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably
 about
 10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to
get
 the temp up to 80C.

 Levi

 On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let
OFF
   the
   fuel...  My startup went like this:
   Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 
   25

   seconds
   with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
   slowly)
   and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started 
   dying

   out
   again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to
press
   my
   luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like
30
   seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
   again it
   slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying
again.
   So I
   took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started
coming
   to
   life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for
a
   few
   seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it
running.
 
  I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
  It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has
started
  very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
  link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
  and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
  good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
  SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
  (It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)
 
  Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
  making it any harder than I have to to start.
 
   I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
   15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
   what not on.
 
  'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
  back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
  out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
  charger for occasional overnight refreshment.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread ernest breakfield

uh, like you didn't?   ;-)


cheers!
e

high 30s last night, expecting 40s in Berkeley, CA...

andrew strasfogel wrote:

Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.

Andrew
 24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.

[snippage]



Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 14, Issue 105

2007-01-17 Thread Curt Raymond
0.0F when I got out of bed this morning. 
Supposed to be warmer tomorrow morning, like single digits. I was thinking I'd 
maybe not run the block heater and see how the car would start. Then I got 
thinking about the longer time spent in the car without heat...
Lessee, the block heater is on for like 2.5 hours. It draws less than 4 amps. 
Thats squatski, its costing me a couple cents a day. I'll plug 'er in...

-Curt

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2007 9:29:22 -0500
From: 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The big test
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: Curt Raymond 
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Yes-so did my 300D 2.5-it was 10F and no hint of winter.  I am assuming I will 
never have to uncoil the block heater plug.  Almost disappointing as starting 
the 240D is more exciting and involves manly skills like tweaking the cold 
idle, double glow, etc.

How cold was it in N. MA this AM?
Dwight
 Curt Raymond  wrote: 
 
 Started just like it was July. 


 Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
 1979 240D-250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
 Wickford, RI



 
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To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality
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I actually only purchase pre owned homes of a certain vintage.  But the 
wife's side goes for new construction, so I check what garbage they are 
getting for their pennies.

Look at the trim work.  If it is real wood, miter cut angles, that 
speaks volumes about the quality of materials used.  Most times the 
trim is but nailed, paper wrapped saw dust.  Cheap construction also 
like T1-11 siding.  Excess caulk usage on nail holes/seams speaks to 
the low value home.  Pergo type flooring - look like wood, wears like 
paper.  I guess if it looks and feels cheap, you are correct.

Sturdy products speak of more care in the building.  I really hate the 
particle board siding or sheet products being used anywhere but for 
interior remodel.  Homes get popped up around here with that junk, get 
rained on, and the wood just sucks the water into the sheet.  A few 
years later, there is de-lamination and mold.

My $0.02, YMMV




On Jan 17, 2007, at 1:35 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

 Okay, I know there's been a lot of OT lately (which I think keeps 
 things
 fun), but I want to draw upon the knowledge our discriminating 
 collective:

 As new-build houses go, how can one tell if a house is built with 
 quality as
 opposed to corner-cutting cheapness? I know that new techniques are 
 being
 used, such as a few pieces of plywood bonded together to make a 2 x 
 4. Is
 stuff like that okay, and what else is there to look out for?

 Brian
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] [OT] P/M/W (was Mercedes Quality vs Toyota)

2007-01-17 Thread Redghost
I say allow them to drive any decrepit excuse for a car they want with 
no need for inspections.  Up the strength of recreation narcotics to 
near lethal levels.  Crank up the toxins in smokes, as well as over 
saturate the prepared food with fats and chemicals.  Decrease spending 
on public education, reduce sports programs at schools, remove arts 
programs for children, and remove incentives for quality teachers to 
hang around.


In a generation or so, the less desirable who breed might begin to be 
self terminating.


Then we can use the bloated carcasses for rendering into biofuels for 
our old Diesel cars.



On Jan 17, 2007, at 4:34 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not much longer; in America we are engaging in a selective breeding 
campaign; we espouse abstinence and waiting, so those few good people 
do that, resulting in fewer kids.  The less-than good folks (ie the 
self-centered idiots to whom nothing in this world applies (except 
entitlement programs)) go ahead and have lots of kids (this would be a 
litter, right?) (whether it is to further their entitlements or just 
because they dont care)... so the idiots are out-reproducing the 
non-idiots. Couple that with the ongoing campaign to repeal the laws 
of natural selection (courtesy of all the lawsuits and safety warnings 
as a result of injuries caused by failure to utilize common sense...)


Anyhow, Y'all can smell what I'm stepping in.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message --
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Most problems can be blamed on a minority. Fortunately, good people
still outnumber the f***ing idiots, but I wonder for how much longer?

-- Jim 

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Governer question

2007-01-17 Thread Peter Frederick
And the governor is linked to the fuel rack and accelerator linkage with 
springs

It does indeed have a function, just like the vac governor in older models.  
You don't notice the effect except that you get fairly strong acceleration with 
minor movements of the pedal, then rapid reduction in acceleration as speed 
changes.  

I would be very tiring to drive a diesel without a governor, it would ALWAYS be 
speeding up or slowing down slightly.

Check out the linkage diagrams in the MB engine manuals.

Peter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 17, 2007 9:11 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Governer question

 
In a message dated 1/15/2007 10:21:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Since  the air intake is essentially wide open on a diesel (vac 
governors  excluded, but have the same effect), something has to control 
engine  speed.

The governor combines the engine speed with the accelerator  position 
to determine fuel delivery.  As engine speed drops for any  given pedal 
position, the governor weights will drive inwards under the  influence 
of the return springs and rack return spring to rotate the  sleeves in 
the IP to give more fuel delivery.

Yes, it does indeed  work like a speed control, although it won't change 
the accelerator  position -- the accelerator linkage will over-ride the 
governor towards  more or less fuel.   The main effect of the governor 
is idle and  low speed operation, where lots of fuel is needed to get 
moving, but a  large change is speed is not desired.  It will also help 
to maintain  speed on the highway, within rather small limits.

Needless to say, this  isn't quite a simple as that (although not a 
complex as the gasoline  injection pumps!), but what you will get with 
new bushings is better speed  and throttle control -- the engine will 
not hunt for speed, for  instance, and won't lag or run on when you 
either press down or lift up  the accelerator.



Peter,
 
If we are talking pre computer controlled Mercedes diesels, such as  the  617 
turbo diesel, you are totally wrong!  The governer does   not have any 
function between idle and full rpm.  The only things that  control engine 
speed are 
the load, and the position of the fuel rack.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles

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[MBZ] Heater Monovalve questions

2007-01-17 Thread Donald Snook
I am freezing my butt off driving my car.  I have no heat and I believe
several folks on the list agreed it was the monovalve, but I just want
to make sure.  I am not getting any heat out the vents, but after long
enough, I will get some (although not much) heat from the defrost vents.
This is true regardless of which button on the control I push. Is this
the monovalve?  

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 134K 



[MBZ] Anyone need a huge Diesel truck

2007-01-17 Thread Donald Snook
Ebay item # 260077088356 no affiliation

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CREW-CAB-DUALLY-ALL-POWER-6-5-LITER-TURBO
-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ260077088356QQihZ016QQcategoryZ90970QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIte
m

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 134K 



Re: [MBZ] OT - VA medical care

2007-01-17 Thread LarryT

Werner wrote:you're treading on some soft ground when you question the
rights of patients in VA hospitals.  Remember the old saying they also
serve who wait?

I agree with you Werner - in fact, I believe the % of those who actually see 
combat is around 20% (or it was during WW2) with the remaining 80% 
preforming support duties to keep them fighting.


Also, regardless of who gets shot at or not, they *all*  suffer from very 
low pay (many enlisted men with families survive only because they qualify 
for food stamps) - and an incessant training schedule. They are working 
24./7 for the most part - and when they get called overseas they may be 
there for a long time without time off.


Only those who's injury/illness/disease can be attributed to their time in 
service can be treated in a VA hospital.   If anyone ever wants to do 
something for those who keep us free I suggest you visit some of those in 
the VA - it will break your heart and you will likely be the only one 
visiting many of the patients.  Then there are patients whose family shows 
up on the day his monthly check arrives  then are not seen again until next 
month.  My wife worked as a RN at our local VA hospital - in the long term 
care floor and on the spinal care unit where some have help breathing with a 
sigh button - the button is pressed ocasionally and the machine sighs for 
the patient - something that's needed once in a while although those of us 
healthy enough to do it for ourselves seldom notice it.  She was burned out 
after 2 years and had to take time off before finding work elsewhere ---


Anyone receiving health care in a VA hospital isn't very  lucky.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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.
- Original Message - 
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:10 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT - VA medical care



OK Don - IMO, you're treading on some soft ground when you question the
rights of patients in VA hospitals.  Remember the old saying they also
serve who wait?  There were a lot of veterans of WW2, Korea, RVN, or 
later
conflicts that were either fortunate not to be shot at, or were assigned 
to
duties that kept them safer.  It wasn't always their own call as to 
where

they served, but they all contributed to the effort, and have a right to
share in what meager benefits that our forgetful citizens have allowed. 
All

veterans had their personal lives interrupted, careers changed, and some
were injured, maimed, or killed.  I don't think we are wise enough to say
who qualifies for medical care.

Werner, WB2BRB

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota



Don't forget those who never left the States, got the GI bill, went to
college, paid the bright youngsters to do their homework, cried over
having to take the tests, graduated (barely), and expected to be
handed a high paying job (never got it), and are now filling the halls
of the VA hospitals getting free medical care. I figure we way over
paid for that.
I have no problem with those how saw combat - we can't do enogh for
them. But to do the same for everyone who ended up in the armed
service?
May his noodly appendage do a little more than touch!

On 1/16/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

At least those who were able to succeed on government largesse in our
generation with GI Bill, had to dodge bullets or maybe put lives on the
line.  I figure the gummint got off easy on that debt.  And some even
brought home a tri star when returning from deployment.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK



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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota

2007-01-17 Thread LarryT
You wrote:I suspect there are too many under-qualified people being 
allowed into

colleges.

I read somewhere recently that something like 75% of Freshmen had to take 
remedial English, Math and other courses before they could proceed with 
college level classes - the material offered in HS is inefficient.  And the 
students are not aware of the level of effort reqired in college - well, the 
way college used to be.,


I wish I could find it again - a while back I saw an 8th grade proficiency 
exam from 1908 or so - I graduated HS in 1968 and most of those questions 
were way over my head I'm sorry to say.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota



On the issue of quantity of humanities v. engineering graduates, I
suspect there are too many under-qualified people being allowed into
colleges.   When you actually had to pay for the education, you had a
better quality student entering.  Now any idiot that can claim some
affiliation with a minority group supported by an entitlement program
gets a free education.

If these people were employed in manufacturing jobs, maybe the quality
would go up, because the more qualified would be educated either on the
job, or through a business degree.

On Jan 14, 2007, at 12:06 PM, LarryT wrote:


you wrote:most of my current managers (in a materials supply
industry)
have degrees in Liberal Arts

Hmmm, I wonder if that is because of the low # of
engineering/scientist our
colleges are turning out?  Along with a high # of Liberal Arts degrees
forcing a glut on the market - so a company that is looking for a
Bachelors
degree holder must accept whatever comse in the door?

While the US still leads the world in most areas I gotta wonder how
long we
can keep that position while putting square pegs into round holes?
Those
managers can do an amazing amount of damage to morale and the product.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota



The US plants have American managers.  If they are like the ones I
have
currently at my current job (major US company as a contractor), they
can turn any set of parts into junk.

The notion that if you know how to do it you are prohibited from
managing it seems to be universal in the US -- the only thing that
counts is daily cash savings.  Actual knowledge appears to disqualify
one to manage anything -- most of my current managers (in a materials
supply industry) have degrees in Liberal Arts.

Naturally, you get lousy product as a result.

Peter


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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