[MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread LarryT

Howdy -
   I changed the oil today and I checked the post that goes down the center 
of the oil filter.  I checked the hole in the end and the hole near the top 
of the post - both seemed clear but there was a blockage about 2 up from 
the bottom.  It seemed to be very solid.  I tried to push it with a large 
paper clip and it wouldn't budge. I tried to blow carb cleaner thru the 
bottom hole and only got some seepage from the upper hole.   Same using 
compressed air - very weak flow.


   3 questions - is the post supposed to be hollow with a clear opening 
between both holes?


   What's the purpose of the holes in the post?

   Is this covered in the WSM?  Where?

   Thanks -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
. 





Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread Peter Frederick

Likely this is the bleed back into the oil pan from the bypass filter.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread LarryT
Hmmm.so, should I force the obstruction out?   Or is it ok with the tube 
partially obstructed?  Maybe it's designed like that?

Thx --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -



Likely this is the bleed back into the oil pan from the bypass filter.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-05 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Just slap a label on it, I use fedex, not sure if ups will take it 
without a box.


Harry Watkins wrote:

IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.

Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

Thanks for any input.

Harry
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] Another test at Netzero's request 020207

2007-02-05 Thread Gary Hurst

gmail is the only email i've ever had that actually works

why anyone would mess with netzero email is beyond human
comprehension.  the only thing crazier would be trying to make mbz.org
mail work.

On 2/2/07, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Glenn, just use the GMail account I sent you and get over it.

Don


On 2/2/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Glenn, netzero is apparantly not going to work.

 Glenn M. Brown wrote:
  An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed...
  Name: not available
  Url:
 
http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20070202/a82a5bfd/attachment.pl
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
   87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
   81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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I'm a man but I can change if I have to ... I guess.
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread Marshall Booth

LarryT wrote:

Howdy -
I changed the oil today and I checked the post that goes down the center 
of the oil filter.  I checked the hole in the end and the hole near the top 
of the post - both seemed clear but there was a blockage about 2 up from 
the bottom.  It seemed to be very solid.  I tried to push it with a large 
paper clip and it wouldn't budge. I tried to blow carb cleaner thru the 
bottom hole and only got some seepage from the upper hole.   Same using 
compressed air - very weak flow.


3 questions - is the post supposed to be hollow with a clear opening 
between both holes?


What's the purpose of the holes in the post?

Is this covered in the WSM?  Where?


There is a valve that prevents flow from the bottom to the top hole. You 
blow the stem out by blowing in the top hole and any contained oil will 
come out the bottom (and stain your driveway, clothes, etc.)!


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread Marshall Booth

LarryT wrote:
Hmmm.so, should I force the obstruction out?   Or is it ok with the tube 
partially obstructed?  Maybe it's designed like that?


Did you read page 6 of section 18-002 on the CD?

Marshall

--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



[MBZ] OT: Series on Global Warming

2007-02-05 Thread Craig McCluskey
There is a 10 part series on the subject, Some scientists deny global
warming exists that starts at

http://www.canada.com/nationalpost/story.html?id=156df7e6-d490-41c9-8b1f-106fef8763c6k=0


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread andrew strasfogel

If a diesel starts poorly and dies regardless of the cold - with valve
adjustment in the last 10 k miles - that would seem to indicate one or
two bad glow plusgs, correct?

Andrew
300TD 1983

On 2/4/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
 starting?

Plugs that measure correctly and that aren't encased in carbon should
start the car as well a new plugs. As plugs age, they will fatigue, but
that is reflected in the current flow characteristics.

Second only to to plug condition in inhibiting starting in cold weather
are valve clearances. If one or two are tight, starting in below
freezing temperatures is seriously compromised or even prevented.
Finally, the fuel must flow freely. Number 2 diesel starts to cloud and
flow is inhibited at just below freezing unless winterized. Finally, any
water in the fuel will freeze and plug the fuel lines and plate ice onto
the filter surfaces.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Series on Global Warming

2007-02-05 Thread Rory

It appears that perhaps the sky isn't falling...

http://www.opinionjournal.com/editorial/feature.html?id=110009625


On 2/4/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


There is a 10 part series on the subject, Some scientists deny global
warming exists that starts at


http://www.canada.com/nationalpost/story.html?id=156df7e6-d490-41c9-8b1f-106fef8763c6k=0


Craig

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--
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD


Re: [MBZ] OT: Series on Global Warming

2007-02-05 Thread David Brodbeck
It was revealed recently that American Enterprise Institute offered
$10,000 of Exxon-Mobil's money to any scientist who would write a paper
critical of the U.N. report, back in July.  I wonder how many of the
people saying global warming doesn't exist have been well payed to come
to that conclusion?



Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -

2007-02-05 Thread LarryT

Thanks 18-002 explains it perfectly -


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover Post question -



LarryT wrote:
Hmmm.so, should I force the obstruction out?   Or is it ok with the 
tube

partially obstructed?  Maybe it's designed like that?


Did you read page 6 of section 18-002 on the CD?

Marshall

--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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[MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal

2007-02-05 Thread LarryT

The following is a editorial written a few weeks ago -

And, now I hear AlGore's movie has been nominated for an Academy Award -
I didnt realize they had a catagory for Best Propaganda film by a former 
VP.


Anyway - read this for some surprising alternative explanations --


Algore and Kyoto list China and India as developing nations. Let's
see; China built the Great Wall about 200BC around about the time
they started using a rudimentary magnetic compass and manufacturing
gunpowder...

Here's a most excellent summation of the flawed liturgy of the Church
of Global Warming:


Preaching the climate catechism

Lorne Gunter
National Post
 (Canada)

Monday, January 29, 2007
On Friday, the United Nations' global warming spin factory will
switch into high gear with the release of the Intergovernmental Panel
on Climate Change's (IPCC) latest report.

Actually, the spin will come mostly in the Summary for Policy Makers.
The report itself, running to several hundred pages, will consist
mostly of dry scientific papers that are usually far less definitive
about the causes and effects of climate change.

Expect the summary -- which is not written by scientists, but by
politicians and activists -- to be highly alarmist. It will almost
certainly insist that since the last report in 2001, proof of a
coming man-made climate disaster has mounted and the scientific
consensus has grown stronger.

It will infer the only solution is a massive remaking of
industrialized society presided over by international bureaucrats and
environmentalists.

Even the scientific papers in the IPCC report will have been doctored
a bit. In past versions, scientists who have refused to swallow whole
the orthodoxy that Earth is going to hell in a handbasket courtesy of
SUVs, power plants and the consumer culture of the developed world
have been dropped from the committees that write and review the IPCC
report's individual chapters.

Their doubts, no matter how substantial and well-documented -- have
been expunged from the final drafts.

You've no doubt heard there is an international scientific consensus
that the planet is warming, that the warming will likely be
catastrophic and it is being caused by human-produced emissions. The
IPCC shows how this vaunted consensus is reached, not by getting all
scientists to agree, but by defaming or ignoring those with opinions
and research cast doubt on the dogma.

That's not science, it's shunning, the ancient religious punishment
for heretics.

If you saw Al Gore's propaganda film, An Inconvenient Truth, you may
be familiar with Naomi Oreskes, the University of California social
scientist who claimed to have found 100% agreement among climate
scientists. In a much-quoted article in Science magazine, Ms. Oreskes
claimed that of the 928 scientific paper's whose abstracts she
reviewed, not a single one disagreed with or raised objections to the
man-made warming theory.

Not reported though -- because it doesn't reinforce the climate
catechism -- was a review of Ms. Oreskes' report by British scientist
Benny Peiser. He found that Ms. Oreskes had failed to examine nearly
11,000 other climate reports that may or may not have supported her
conclusion. And even among the 928 she carefully selected, only 2%
wholly endorsed the view that human activity is driving global
warming, while several actually opposed that conclusion, even
though Ms. Oreskes claimed their support, too.

Remember headlines late last year such as Greenhouse gases help make
2006 warmest year ever? What didn't get reported was the fact those
doom-laden records were based on only the first 11 months of last
year. When the temperatures for December were added to the mix last
week, 2006 turned out to be the coolest year in the past five.

But that hardly feeds the public hysteria needed to justify remaking
the world's economies in the environmentalists' image.

The January issue of the journal Geophysical Research Letters,
contains an article by scientists at the Proudman Oceanographic
Laboratory, in Liverpool concluding the rates of sea level change
observed over the past 20 years were not particularly unusual. In
fact the rate of sea level change was found to be larger in the
early part of the [20th] century in comparison with the latter part.

In the past decade, the Southern Hemisphere has warmed only half as
fast as the Northern Hemisphere. Ice cover at the South Pole is
expanding, rather than melting. Since 2003, the upper layer of the
Atlantic has lost 25% of the extra heat it had built up in the past
three decades. Worries that the Atlantic currents were slowing due to
warming have been shown recently to be unfounded: For thousands of
years, Atlantic currents have sped up and slowed down as they are
doing now. And the broad consensus among solar scientists is that the
Earth's warming is almost entirely explicable by increased solar
activity that began about 100 years ago, and which will end around 2020.

But don't expect any of that to 

Re: [MBZ] OT: German Shepherds was battery recharge and driving with the lights on

2007-02-05 Thread Christopher McCann
Sammy (who I thought I was going to name Heinrich, but he's already  used to 
Sammy and it suits his laid back temperment)...we picked him up  in Tulsa this 
weekend. Great dog, but gets car sick...at least for now.  Wagons are 
definitely better for dogs!
  
  Looks like Steffen-Haus has some really nice dogs. I noticed they are  in 
Columbus, WI...are you near there? My in-laws are dairy farmers  outside Lodi 
(near Madison) who we visit occassionally. If you're close  by there, I'd love 
to meet you, your dog and see your cars.
  
  Chris
  

John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  
On Feb 2, 2007, at 3:47 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:

   That Alsatian thing really bugs me. The same anti-German hysteria  
 swept  the US during WWI too. At the beginning of the war there  
 were over  10,000 German language schools in the US. By the end of  
 the war, I  think it was 12. If it weren't for that, I (and alot of  
 others) would  probably still speak German becuase my family (mom's  
 side) wouldn't  have had to hide their ethnicity. Oh well.

Oddly after my mother passed away we discovered in the paperwork that  
my grandmother was from Germany, completely covered up. Even today my  
mother's sister who's 96 wrote up the family history say her mother  
was from so and so (can't recall), Austria. My wife who's parent come  
from Germany did point out (to no avail) that the town so and so  
actually was in Germany... Well at least they put the town in, us  
younger folks can figure out reality. This of course does explain  
some of my odd accent at times.

John
1983 300TDt  368k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  172k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 180k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)

plus one german shepherd from http://www.steffen-haus.com
who haunts both wagons, but NOT the sedan...





Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2006 GSD, Anke (Yanke von der burg Austerlitz)
-2006 GSD, Sammy (Zane von der burg Austerlitz)
-1985 300SD, 219K miles, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K miles, little blue klatter box
 
-
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andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 If a diesel starts poorly and dies regardless of the cold - with
 valve adjustment in the last 10 k miles - that would seem to
 indicate one or two bad glow plusgs, correct?

As a quick test, you can unplug the connector at the GP relay, and
measure the resistance of each plug.  It's not a perfect test, but can
identify any that are completely burned out or in bad condition.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



[MBZ] Trailer Hitch

2007-02-05 Thread TimothyPilgrim

What are the prospects of finding a trailer hitch for a 1984 300TD?

Tim
1982 300TD
1991 300TE 4Matic



Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread andrew strasfogel

Unfortunately, other than the ability to replace fuses and bulbs, I am a
complete electrical dummy.  I can replace glow plugs, but not test them,
alas.

I may plug in the block heater to see what effect that has on its ability to
start w/o stalling.

I


On 2/5/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 If a diesel starts poorly and dies regardless of the cold - with
 valve adjustment in the last 10 k miles - that would seem to
 indicate one or two bad glow plusgs, correct?

As a quick test, you can unplug the connector at the GP relay, and
measure the resistance of each plug.  It's not a perfect test, but can
identify any that are completely burned out or in bad condition.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] Anyone parting a W126 SE C?

2007-02-05 Thread andrew strasfogel

My friend needs to replace the locking center console box with sliding
burlwood tambor lid in his 1989 560 SE C.  Anyone have one of these?
Kaleb??


Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread LT Don

Andrew:

The best way to test the glow plug is to preglow and then touch the end of
the glow plug with your finger. If you scream then it is probably working.
If you don't scream, the plug isn't working. The tongue is an even better
indicator if you are really flexible.

On 2/5/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Unfortunately, other than the ability to replace fuses and bulbs, I am a
complete electrical dummy.  I can replace glow plugs, but not test them,
alas.





--
I'm a man but I can change if I have to ... I guess.


Re: [MBZ] Trailer Hitch

2007-02-05 Thread Kevin
On Mon, Feb 05, 2007 at 09:27:58AM -0500, TimothyPilgrim wrote:
 What are the prospects of finding a trailer hitch for a 1984 300TD?

Better if you give up now and look for one for your TE instead.

K



Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal

2007-02-05 Thread John Freer

Well now, that sure is good news. Time to get a V12 W140 and not worry about
oil reserves and all that nonsense since we can build new refineries all
over the country.

And I can't wait for the coal burning utility plants to make a comeback.

Let's geter done!


On 2/5/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The following is a editorial written a few weeks ago -

And, now I hear AlGore's movie has been nominated for an Academy Award -
I didnt realize they had a catagory for Best Propaganda film by a former
VP.

Anyway - read this for some surprising alternative explanations --


Algore and Kyoto list China and India as developing nations. Let's
see; China built the Great Wall about 200BC around about the time
they started using a rudimentary magnetic compass and manufacturing
gunpowder...

Here's a most excellent summation of the flawed liturgy of the Church
of Global Warming:


Preaching the climate catechism

Lorne Gunter
National Post
(Canada)

Monday, January 29, 2007
On Friday, the United Nations' global warming spin factory will
switch into high gear with the release of the Intergovernmental Panel
on Climate Change's (IPCC) latest report.

Actually, the spin will come mostly in the Summary for Policy Makers.
The report itself, running to several hundred pages, will consist
mostly of dry scientific papers that are usually far less definitive
about the causes and effects of climate change.

Expect the summary -- which is not written by scientists, but by
politicians and activists -- to be highly alarmist. It will almost
certainly insist that since the last report in 2001, proof of a
coming man-made climate disaster has mounted and the scientific
consensus has grown stronger.

It will infer the only solution is a massive remaking of
industrialized society presided over by international bureaucrats and
environmentalists.

Even the scientific papers in the IPCC report will have been doctored
a bit. In past versions, scientists who have refused to swallow whole
the orthodoxy that Earth is going to hell in a handbasket courtesy of
SUVs, power plants and the consumer culture of the developed world
have been dropped from the committees that write and review the IPCC
report's individual chapters.

Their doubts, no matter how substantial and well-documented -- have
been expunged from the final drafts.

You've no doubt heard there is an international scientific consensus
that the planet is warming, that the warming will likely be
catastrophic and it is being caused by human-produced emissions. The
IPCC shows how this vaunted consensus is reached, not by getting all
scientists to agree, but by defaming or ignoring those with opinions
and research cast doubt on the dogma.

That's not science, it's shunning, the ancient religious punishment
for heretics.

If you saw Al Gore's propaganda film, An Inconvenient Truth, you may
be familiar with Naomi Oreskes, the University of California social
scientist who claimed to have found 100% agreement among climate
scientists. In a much-quoted article in Science magazine, Ms. Oreskes
claimed that of the 928 scientific paper's whose abstracts she
reviewed, not a single one disagreed with or raised objections to the
man-made warming theory.

Not reported though -- because it doesn't reinforce the climate
catechism -- was a review of Ms. Oreskes' report by British scientist
Benny Peiser. He found that Ms. Oreskes had failed to examine nearly
11,000 other climate reports that may or may not have supported her
conclusion. And even among the 928 she carefully selected, only 2%
wholly endorsed the view that human activity is driving global
warming, while several actually opposed that conclusion, even
though Ms. Oreskes claimed their support, too.

Remember headlines late last year such as Greenhouse gases help make
2006 warmest year ever? What didn't get reported was the fact those
doom-laden records were based on only the first 11 months of last
year. When the temperatures for December were added to the mix last
week, 2006 turned out to be the coolest year in the past five.

But that hardly feeds the public hysteria needed to justify remaking
the world's economies in the environmentalists' image.

The January issue of the journal Geophysical Research Letters,
contains an article by scientists at the Proudman Oceanographic
Laboratory, in Liverpool concluding the rates of sea level change
observed over the past 20 years were not particularly unusual. In
fact the rate of sea level change was found to be larger in the
early part of the [20th] century in comparison with the latter part.

In the past decade, the Southern Hemisphere has warmed only half as
fast as the Northern Hemisphere. Ice cover at the South Pole is
expanding, rather than melting. Since 2003, the upper layer of the
Atlantic has lost 25% of the extra heat it had built up in the past
three decades. Worries that the Atlantic currents were slowing due to
warming have been shown recently to be unfounded: For thousands of

Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread ts
I drove away once with the block heater, lube heater and battery heater all 
plugged in   Snap!!!


Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters


When I used one, I rigged up the extension cord so that when I backed up 
the

cord pulled tight  unplugged itself.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first ride 
on

less than dry pavement...

Levi

On 2/4/07, Steve Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or 
are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required 
to

heat up an engine based on outside temps?

Steve


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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread andrew strasfogel

Very funny.

Reminds me of the old gorilla joke.  A guy is making faces at a gorilla
through the bars of the zoo cage.  He sticks out his tongue and gets no
response from gorilla.  Then he bares his teeth at the gorilla.  Again, no
response.  Then the guy pokes his left index finger in his ear.  Gorilla
reaches through the cage bars, grabs the guy and shakes him violently before
dumping him to the ground!  The guy, dazed, gets up, dusts himself off and
asks a bystander What did I do wrong?.  The bystander shakes his head and
says Poking a finger in your left ear means F*** You! in gorilla
language.  The guy limps home and schemes a way to get even.

Two weeks later, he's back at the gorilla cage.  He makes a face at the
gorilla.  No response.  Then he scratches his butt.  Again, no response.
Finally, the guy pulls a knife out of one pocket and a banana from another.
Guy proceeds to slice banana in half crosswise and hands over the knife to
the gorilla.  Gorilla takes the knife, turns it over a few times, looks down
at his midsection, and then back at the guy.  Gorilla then pokes finger into
his left ear.



On 2/5/07, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Andrew:

The best way to test the glow plug is to preglow and then touch the end of
the glow plug with your finger. If you scream then it is probably working.
If you don't scream, the plug isn't working. The tongue is an even better
indicator if you are really flexible.

On 2/5/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Unfortunately, other than the ability to replace fuses and bulbs, I am a
 complete electrical dummy.  I can replace glow plugs, but not test them,
 alas.




--
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Re: [MBZ] Luckiest man in the world!

2007-02-05 Thread Curt Raymond

Could be, amazing thing is that I had the trans flushed more than a year ago 
when I towed my 190D back from NJ.

So 8 quarts of ATF later and the truck is just fine. I drove it around 
yesterday and got the trans good and warm. Seems like it maybe shifts a little 
smoother than before even.
Maybe it needed the cleanout...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2007 07:18:18 -0500
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Luckiest man in the world!
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii



Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Luckier actually, one of the hoses to the cooler was DISCONNECTED.

Could this have been a hose that was unplugged so they flushed the 
tranny,
and then not clamped down properly?

 
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Hey Levi,

How old are you? Even back when I was a kid in the '80s I remember seeing cars 
with the plug dangling out just above the bumper...
New cords come with a cap, no snow and ice. The old one on my 240D didn't have 
the cap but that wasn't a problem until the other end of the cord went bad...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 14:07:14 -0500
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 
watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first 
ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi

 
-
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 10:31:48 -0800 (PST)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start
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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Curt - I think that its pretty unlikely that loosening the filler cap at the 
tank would have any effect on starting, as there is so much fuel in the 
filter, pre-filter, IP, and injector lines - all of which would have to be 
used before any new fuel from the tank would get to the injectors.
I would look first at what Marshall has stated consistently: winterized 
fuel; proper valve adjustment, working glow plugs.  And with a valve 
adjustment 10k miles ago, that's 2/3 of the way to needing the next one! 
Actually, if the last one was done just a bit off, extreme cold weather 
could very well show that up, too.


Werner
'90D
'83SD

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start




Actually...
My 190D has been starting harder than I like. Its been cold so I 
attributed it to that and bought some Power Service.

Zero difference...
It got so I'd have to hold onto the go pedal and it'd catch but if I let 
off the pedal within 30 seconds it'd die.


This morning I was inspired and opened the fuel cap. Instant easy start.

I drive an hour each way to work. So the fuel in the tank must be getting 
pretty nicely warmed up. Over night it cools to -1F (or whatever) and 
creates some vacuum in the tank.
The engine can pull hard enough to over come the vacuum and pop the vent 
in the cap but it doesn't like doing it when its cold...


Eureka, now to deal with that vent.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 23:45:51 -0500
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

If a diesel starts poorly and dies regardless of the cold - with valve
adjustment in the last 10 k miles - that would seem to indicate one or
two bad glow plusgs, correct?

Andrew
300TD 1983





Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread Levi Smith

We are of similar age I imagine, I'm 30.  I don't see that many plugs around
here, but I have seen plugs hanging out.  But I KNOW how full of crud it
would get around here.  I suppose the answer would be to just get some sort
of cover for it...

Levi

On 2/5/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Hey Levi,

How old are you? Even back when I was a kid in the '80s I remember seeing
cars with the plug dangling out just above the bumper...
New cords come with a cap, no snow and ice. The old one on my 240D didn't
have the cap but that wasn't a problem until the other end of the cord went
bad...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 14:07:14 -0500
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375
watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first
ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi


-
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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Levi - any decent electrical supply store should be able to sell you a cover 
for the plug.  Usually, they are made of rubber (or similar stuff), and tied 
to the cord.  Basically a receptacle without any metal parts and enclosed, 
it fits the prongs on the plug and keeps them clean and fairly dry.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters


We are of similar age I imagine, I'm 30.  I don't see that many plugs 
around

here, but I have seen plugs hanging out.  But I KNOW how full of crud it
would get around here.  I suppose the answer would be to just get some 
sort

of cover for it...

Levi





Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread andrew strasfogel

The block heater cord on the 1985 300CD is secured to the aux. fan with a
plastic tie clamp so high up that the plug barely sticks out from under the
grill.  I need to open the hood to be able to grasp the plug in order
to plug/unplug the heater.  I am thinking of cutting the clamp to allow the
cord to dangle out a bit more...

On 2/5/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Hey Levi,

How old are you? Even back when I was a kid in the '80s I remember seeing
cars with the plug dangling out just above the bumper...
New cords come with a cap, no snow and ice. The old one on my 240D didn't
have the cap but that wasn't a problem until the other end of the cord went
bad...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 14:07:14 -0500
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375
watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first
ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi


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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread Allan Streib
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 The block heater cord on the 1985 300CD is secured to the aux. fan
 with a plastic tie clamp so high up that the plug barely sticks out
 from under the grill.  I need to open the hood to be able to grasp
 the plug in order to plug/unplug the heater.  I am thinking of
 cutting the clamp to allow the cord to dangle out a bit more...

On my 300D the block heater plug emerges from the front of the car
under the right headlight area.  I assumed it was that way on all of
them...

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



[MBZ] Brake Theories

2007-02-05 Thread Frederick Moir
Hi, All.
It's too cold and windy to go out and check my brakes on the 190DT, so I'll ask 
dumb questions in the warm.
Whilst driving yesterday I heard a right rear brake scrape when nearly stopped. 
Looked thru the wheel, nothing. The brakes were done about 2 months ago, by me, 
new disks and pads and shoes from Rusty (All Hail Rusty!), so the only things 
that I can think of are:- Seized caliper or blocked hose or? All comments 
reviewed for content.
TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

 
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Subject: [MBZ] '81 300 CD  in Jacksonville
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FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and take
pictures, but call him first.  
My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my
300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
BillR

1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
Accessories:
Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
Name: David
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Phone: 904-699-3774





[MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD

2007-02-05 Thread Harry Watkins

Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my
mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and
I've no experience with other models.

I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more
than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were
not confusing and all went smoothly after his input.

  1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper. Two
  bolts with nuts, ½ socket and ½ box end. Four rubber donuts, all near the
  bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed the
  flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the pipe.
  Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an exhaust
  baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but there is
  very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed.
  2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a small
  floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and mount. Four
  bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber mount, ¾,
  I used a flex gear wrench.
  3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8
  socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the
  transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the
  third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under
  the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended
  up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front
  and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a
  tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission.
  4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½ short socket with
  a 6 wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a little
  wobble to get a good fit.
  5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the
  spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough
  slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to
  remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming
  from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the
  brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear.
  6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the
  shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At
  this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so
  there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact
  rematch.
  7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the
  differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and
  slid it to the rear and out.  I should have left it on the shaft for easier
  replacement on the bench. (oh well)

Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier.

Harry


Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville

2007-02-05 Thread Darrell W. Sigmon

Hard Top Is it removable without a hacksaw???

DWS

Billr wrote:

FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and take
pictures, but call him first.  
My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my

300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
BillR

1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
Accessories:
Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
Name: David
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Phone: 904-699-3774




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[MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging

2007-02-05 Thread Christopher McCann
What is the relation of these three? Is it linear, non-linear? Is there  a 
point (RPMs) over which you don't gain any more charging? I THINK if  it were a 
generator, then the faster it goes, the more juice you get,  but it's an 
alternator and I just don't know how these factors interplay
  
  Thanks in advance!
  
  Chris
  
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2006 GSD, Anke (Yanke von der burg Austerlitz)
-2006 GSD, Sammy (Zane von der burg Austerlitz)
-1985 300SD, 219K miles, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K miles, little blue klatter box
 
-
The fish are biting.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD  in Jacksonville
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X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 20:52:59 -

Yes, Darrell - and then they will need a soft top to cover up the gaping 
hole when it rains.
(but then again, it's in Florida, where they have enough weather phenomena 
that perhaps it did have a removable hard top??)

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville


 Hard Top Is it removable without a hacksaw???

 DWS

 Billr wrote:
 FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and take
 pictures, but call him first.
 My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my
 300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
 BillR

 1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
 1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
 condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
 Accessories:
 Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
 Name: David
 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Phone: 904-699-3774




Re: [MBZ] Block heater cord

2007-02-05 Thread RELNGSON
Back in my 300D days, my heater cord came out behind the bumper and I stored 
it inside same. Didn't fall out and since it had a plug cover, if it had dirt 
would not be a factor. And if it got dirty I'd clean it. 

Sakes alive!

RLE


Re: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Chris - yes, the curve isn't linear.  And the limitation is field magnetic 
strength, current capacity of the windings, connections, and controls, and 
mechanical rpm limits where things begin to fly apart.  But generators and 
alternators both generate power from a coil of wire rotating through a 
magnetic field, or vice versa.  DC generators have another point of 
limitation, the commutator and brushes, which can only handle a finite 
amount of current for their size before heat burns them up.  Alternators get 
around that by rotating the magnetic field, energized through slip rings, 
which don't have to carry nearly as much current.  Usually, the regulator 
limits the current to protect the rectifying diodes from self destruction 
from heat, and that should happen before the main coils and insulation begin 
to fry.
So in practice, you are correct - at some point, the protective circuitry 
should limit the output current so that it doesn't cook itself to death. 
Remove the regulator, and it is theoretically possible to get more current 
with more rpms, at the risk of ruining the alternator or what's connected to 
it.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:34 PM
Subject: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging


What is the relation of these three? Is it linear, non-linear? Is there  a 
point (RPMs) over which you don't gain any more charging? I THINK if  it 
were a generator, then the faster it goes, the more juice you get,  but 
it's an alternator and I just don't know how these factors interplay


 Thanks in advance!

 Chris




Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri





Re: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging

2007-02-05 Thread Christopher McCann
So in an 85 300SD and 82 300D...where abouts do you think/guess that  RPM point 
is past where you don't get any more charging power?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Chris

Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Chris - yes, the curve isn't 
linear.  And the limitation is field magnetic 
strength, current capacity of the windings, connections, and controls, and 
mechanical rpm limits where things begin to fly apart.  But generators and 
alternators both generate power from a coil of wire rotating through a 
magnetic field, or vice versa.  DC generators have another point of 
limitation, the commutator and brushes, which can only handle a finite 
amount of current for their size before heat burns them up.  Alternators get 
around that by rotating the magnetic field, energized through slip rings, 
which don't have to carry nearly as much current.  Usually, the regulator 
limits the current to protect the rectifying diodes from self destruction 
from heat, and that should happen before the main coils and insulation begin 
to fry.
So in practice, you are correct - at some point, the protective circuitry 
should limit the output current so that it doesn't cook itself to death. 
Remove the regulator, and it is theoretically possible to get more current 
with more rpms, at the risk of ruining the alternator or what's connected to 
it.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann 
To: 
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:34 PM
Subject: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging


 What is the relation of these three? Is it linear, non-linear? Is there  a 
 point (RPMs) over which you don't gain any more charging? I THINK if  it 
 were a generator, then the faster it goes, the more juice you get,  but 
 it's an alternator and I just don't know how these factors interplay

  Thanks in advance!

  Chris




 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri


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From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: [MBZ] COLD!
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I am glad I don't try to run my old diesel here in the winter. It was minus 39 
here last night and the high
yesterday was minus 27. We have been in the deep freeze for days and it appears 
there is no immediate end in sight.
Gas powered cars with fuel injection seem willing to start no matter what even 
without being plugged in. One of our
F150's needed the block heater cord end replaced yesterday. My younger son 
Thomas commented that it had been
cranking slow the last few days. I checked and it was not working at all. Cut 
the cord end off and put a new one
on. Works now. Cord didn't look too good however so will replace the whole 
thing once the weather warms up - IE - I
hope I remember to do it before next 

Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville

2007-02-05 Thread Darrell W. Sigmon

Werner, I stick with the hacksaw..

DWS

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Yes, Darrell - and then they will need a soft top to cover up the gaping 
hole when it rains.
(but then again, it's in Florida, where they have enough weather phenomena 
that perhaps it did have a removable hard top??)


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville



Hard Top Is it removable without a hacksaw???

DWS

Billr wrote:

FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and take
pictures, but call him first.
My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my
300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
BillR

1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
Accessories:
Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
Name: David
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 904-699-3774



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Re: [MBZ] COLD!

2007-02-05 Thread Billr
Want me to send you an ice cube come July to remind you?
BillR 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:37 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] COLD!

I am glad I don't try to run my old diesel here in the winter. It was minus
39 here last night and the high yesterday was minus 27. We have been in the
deep freeze for days and it appears there is no immediate end in sight.
Gas powered cars with fuel injection seem willing to start no matter what
even without being plugged in. One of our F150's needed the block heater
cord end replaced yesterday. My younger son Thomas commented that it had
been cranking slow the last few days. I checked and it was not working at
all. Cut the cord end off and put a new one on. Works now. Cord didn't look
too good however so will replace the whole thing once the weather warms up -
IE - I hope I remember to do it before next winter because of course, once
it warms up, we won't need it and often then forget to do it until it is
once again real cold out.

Randy in Winnipeg


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Re: [MBZ] Brake Theories

2007-02-05 Thread LarryT

Hi Fred,
Well, we need more explanation than brake scrape -- was it brake pad 
squeal? or metal to metal?  If the brake pads are squealing, there's a paste 
available at FLAPS that may work.If metal to metal - then the caliper 
piston has stuck and the other pad has worn down in 2 months - which is 
extremely fast, especially for a rear brake - and doubtful.


Perhaps some debris has become lodged in the caliper/rotor area?  Need to 
remove the wheel and check things out - also take a good look at the pads 
and caliper hardware - sometimes the anti-rattle spring comes apart and can 
make noise.


So, we need more info to help -- 


Sorry -
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 2:19 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Brake Theories



Hi, All.
It's too cold and windy to go out and check my brakes on the 190DT, so 
I'll ask dumb questions in the warm.
Whilst driving yesterday I heard a right rear brake scrape when nearly 
stopped. Looked thru the wheel, nothing. The brakes were done about 2 
months ago, by me, new disks and pads and shoes from Rusty (All Hail 
Rusty!), so the only things that I can think of are:- Seized caliper or 
blocked hose or? All comments reviewed for content.

TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA


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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

Actually...
My 190D has been starting harder than I like. Its been cold so I attributed it 
to that and bought some Power Service.
Zero difference...
It got so I'd have to hold onto the go pedal and it'd catch but if I let off 
the pedal within 30 seconds it'd die.

This morning I was inspired and opened the fuel cap. Instant easy start.

I drive an hour each way to work. So the fuel in the tank must be getting 
pretty nicely warmed up. Over night it cools to -1F (or whatever) and creates 
some vacuum in the tank.
The engine can pull hard enough to over come the vacuum and pop the vent in the 
cap but it doesn't like doing it when its cold...

Eureka, now to deal with that vent. 


Check and be sure that the vacuum high idle system is working as it 
should. With a slight leak in vacuum, the idle will remain low and 
require that you hold the pedal down for the first 30-40 seconds.


See 7.1-010 part D in the engine manual or the CD for description of the 
pneumatic idle speed control.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Brake Theories

2007-02-05 Thread Marshall Booth

Frederick Moir wrote:

Hi, All.
It's too cold and windy to go out and check my brakes on the 190DT, so I'll ask 
dumb questions in the warm.
Whilst driving yesterday I heard a right rear brake scrape when nearly stopped. 
Looked thru the wheel, nothing. The brakes were done about 2 months ago, by me, 
new disks and pads and shoes from Rusty (All Hail Rusty!), so the only things 
that I can think of are:- Seized caliper or blocked hose or? All comments 
reviewed for content.


A pad hanging because there's some ice on the caliper can do it. An 
emergency brake shoe can drag when cold or when the holding spring fails 
(fairly common). A rock or piece of ice can result in a scraping 
sound. So can a piece of e-brake shoe that's cracked off the backing 
plate. Lots of possibilities - and I've experienced them all. You'll 
need to determine which one by checking them one at a time.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Drive shaft removal steps, 85 300TD

2007-02-05 Thread Harry Watkins

Send again

On 2/5/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Thanks to Peter and others, the job was made easy. While its fresh on my
mind, I'll share the steps I took. Keep in mind that this is an 85 300TD and
I've no experience with other models.

I have the paper manual and read the procedure before hand, however, more
than one model was covered and I got a little confused. Peter's answers were
not confusing and all went smoothly after his input.

   1. Remove the exhaust system from the transmission to the bumper.
   Two bolts with nuts, ½ socket and ½ box end. Four rubber donuts, all near
   the bumper, I left one donut attached to hold up that end while I removed
   the flange connection. I used a screwdriver and a wiggle to separate the
   pipe. Lowered it to the floor and pushed it clear. The manual spoke of an
   exhaust baffle that mine did not have. I pre Kroil everything I work on but
   there is very little rust under this car and it probably was not needed.
   2. I supported the transmission with a large piece of wood and a
   small floor jack, then removed the transmission rear support plate and
   mount. Four bolts going straight up, 11/16' socket. One nut above the rubber
   mount, ¾, I used a flex gear wrench.
   3. Disconnect the front flex disk. I removed the three bolts (5/8
   socket) and nuts (11/16' box end) that left the disk attached to the
   transmission. I had to rotate the drive shaft once to gain access to the
   third bolt. The rear wheels were on ramps with a large floor jack left under
   the differential. I raised the rear just enough to turn the wheels. I ended
   up doing this again with the rear disk, so next time I'll remove bolts front
   and rear, then rotate the shaft only one time to gain access. I then used a
   tire tool to force the shaft to the rear and clear of the transmission.
   4. Remove the center bearing support bolts (two). ½ short socket
   with a 6 wobble extension. Both are straight up, but one side needs a
   little wobble to get a good fit.
   5. Disconnect the parking brake equalizer mechanism. I removed the
   spring by inserting the tire tool in the coil as a handle and gained enough
   slack to remove it and the V wire anchor. Needle nose pliers were used to
   remove a tiny cotter key from a small pin that released the cable coming
   from the cab. Now there was enough slack to remove the lever and one of the
   brake shoe cables to let everything swing clear.
   6. There is a welded plate across the shaft tunnel that keeps the
   shaft supported up front until you are ready to slide it out to the rear. At
   this point, I used bailing wire to secure the two shaft ends together so
   there was no chance of separation until I had it out and marked for exact
   rematch.
   7. Remove the rear disk. Same as the front, I left the disk on the
   differential. I forced it forward with the tire tool, dropped it down and
   slid it to the rear and out.  I should have left it on the shaft for easier
   replacement on the bench. (oh well)

 Hopefully there are folks that will chime in to make this easier.

Harry




Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-05 Thread Marshall Booth

andrew strasfogel wrote:

If a diesel starts poorly and dies regardless of the cold - with valve
adjustment in the last 10 k miles - that would seem to indicate one or
two bad glow plusgs, correct?


If the glow plug dash light comes on when you first turn on the key then 
at least 4 and usually 5 of the plugs are good in an OM617.95 engine 
(like yours) and 5 working glow plugs is all that should be needed down 
to near zero (F). Water or waxed fuel clogging a filter that's just a 
little occluded can seriously reduce starting ease. One tight valve can 
do it (and a valve CAN tighten up in just a few thousand miles, but 
usually it takes longer). A battery that really isn't up to snuff (won't 
deliver full power under load) will be MUCH worse when cold. Very rarely 
a starter motor that just won't turn as fast as it should, will inhibit 
or prevent below freezing starts.


Defective preglow system is the most common cause of poor below freezing 
starts. Be SURE that the 80A fuse isn't cracked (it really needs to be 
replaced every 10 years). Valve adjustment comes next (a tight valve 
drops compression enough to prevent starting - the colder it gets the 
tighter the valve becomes and the lower compression drops). When temps 
approach zero (F) fuel or fuel/water problems become very common. Mobil 
1 will usually lower the minimum start temp about 10 degrees (everything 
else being equal) by increasing the cranking speed (may be 25-50% faster).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Luckiest man in the world!

2007-02-05 Thread David Brodbeck
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
 Sounds like another good reason NOT to give extra $$ to a shop to flush a 
 transmission.  Other than a good profit maker for the shop, a flushing 
 process can do more harm than good, since it can bypasses the built-in 
 filter system, and puts a fluid of unknown quality in the system.
 IMO, a complete drain of trans. and torque converter, change of filter and 
 gasket, and refill with quality fluid should suffice.  There's no need to 
 connect/disconnect lines and hoses.
   

True for Mercedes cars, but keep in mind there are many cars out there
that lack torque converter drain plugs.  There is no way to completely
change the fluid in those cars except by flushing it.




Re: [MBZ] COLD!

2007-02-05 Thread R A Bennell
Ah, I think, come summer, I will just sit in my screened porch and drink a 
frosty one and reflect back in that
manner.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Billr
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:45 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] COLD!


Want me to send you an ice cube come July to remind you?
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:37 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] COLD!

I am glad I don't try to run my old diesel here in the winter. It was minus
39 here last night and the high yesterday was minus 27. We have been in the
deep freeze for days and it appears there is no immediate end in sight.
Gas powered cars with fuel injection seem willing to start no matter what
even without being plugged in. One of our F150's needed the block heater
cord end replaced yesterday. My younger son Thomas commented that it had
been cranking slow the last few days. I checked and it was not working at
all. Cut the cord end off and put a new one on. Works now. Cord didn't look
too good however so will replace the whole thing once the weather warms up -
IE - I hope I remember to do it before next winter because of course, once
it warms up, we won't need it and often then forget to do it until it is
once again real cold out.

Randy in Winnipeg


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Series on Global Warming

2007-02-05 Thread Loren Faeth
I'd sure like to have the globe, or even a few smaller objects warmed about 
now.  I've had enough below zero for a winter already.  Bring on the warming!


At 12:24 AM 2/5/2007, you wrote:

It appears that perhaps the sky isn't falling...

http://www.opinionjournal.com/editorial/feature.html?id=110009625


On 2/4/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There is a 10 part series on the subject, Some scientists deny global
 warming exists that starts at


 
http://www.canada.com/nationalpost/story.html?id=156df7e6-d490-41c9-8b1f-106fef8763c6k=0



 Craig

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--
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD
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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal

2007-02-05 Thread Peter Frederick
Gee, that must explain why sattelite photographs show some much less 
ice around both poles, eh?


As I remember, the warming of the planet has not been in dispute by 
reputable scientists for going on 30 years now -- there are a few who 
insist that temperatures at 50,000 ft aren't going up much, but then I 
don't live there, I live here on the surface.


Also not in dispute is that the carbon dioxide content of both air and 
ocean water is increasing at a rather high rate -- there are fairly 
accurate numbers going back a couple hundred years, and unless I'm 
mistaken, the carbon dioxide content is more than double what it was in 
1900.


All that carbon dioxide is from burning fossil fuels -- renewable fuels 
(wood and buffalo chips, mostly) get re-absorbed into plant growth, 
more or less, as they would have been anyway through decay of various 
sorts.  The immense quantities of fossil fuel we are blasting through 
is having an equally immense impact, and no amount of jawboning is 
gonna change that.


Yes, there have been climate changes in the past (for instance, I am 
quite certain that there was open ocean in the arctic during the 500s 
AD), but the carbon dioxide level was constant, not climbing.


There are quite a few very wealthy institutions with  a vested interest 
blowing a lot of pseudo science around about global warming, mostly so 
they can justify drilling and selling more oil and cars -- take a step 
back and use your own knoggin, the evidence is there for anyone to look 
at.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Trailer Hitch

2007-02-05 Thread Ralph W

Tim,
I have a light duty hitch hitch for sale. It was on my wagon which I am 
parting out. I can send pictures if you are interested. It mounted to the 
bumper and the body. Tongue weight was rated at 150lbs with a max pulling 
capacity of roughly 1500lbs.


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:27 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Trailer Hitch



What are the prospects of finding a trailer hitch for a 1984 300TD?

Tim
1982 300TD
1991 300TE 4Matic

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Re: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Probably between 1600 - 2000 rpm - typically, alternators are running twice 
(+/-) crankshaft rpm, so that would be 3200-4000 alternator rpm.  Engineers 
have to step up the speed so that you get enough output so as not to run off 
the battery at idle, with minimal electrical loads, and yet keep top speed 
low enough so as not to self destruct when the engine is wound out.  I seem 
to recall during my early days in Detroit that they were getting generators 
up to over 10k rpm, which led to shortened life.  And 10k rpm isn't nearly 
as much of a problem to an alternator, so running that SD up to the limit of 
the IP governor won't kill the alternator (at least not before you do 
something bad to the engine itself!)


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging


So in an 85 300SD and 82 300D...where abouts do you think/guess that  RPM 
point is past where you don't get any more charging power?


 Thanks,

 Chris

Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Chris - yes, the curve isn't 
linear.  And the limitation is field magnetic

strength, current capacity of the windings, connections, and controls, and
mechanical rpm limits where things begin to fly apart.  But generators and
alternators both generate power from a coil of wire rotating through a
magnetic field, or vice versa.  DC generators have another point of
limitation, the commutator and brushes, which can only handle a finite
amount of current for their size before heat burns them up.  Alternators 
get

around that by rotating the magnetic field, energized through slip rings,
which don't have to carry nearly as much current.  Usually, the regulator
limits the current to protect the rectifying diodes from self destruction
from heat, and that should happen before the main coils and insulation 
begin

to fry.
So in practice, you are correct - at some point, the protective circuitry
should limit the output current so that it doesn't cook itself to death.
Remove the regulator, and it is theoretically possible to get more current
with more rpms, at the risk of ruining the alternator or what's connected 
to

it.

Werner





Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer

DWS - a fireman's chop saw would be quicker, but not as neat!

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville



Werner, I stick with the hacksaw..

DWS

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Yes, Darrell - and then they will need a soft top to cover up the 
gaping

hole when it rains.
(but then again, it's in Florida, where they have enough weather 
phenomena

that perhaps it did have a removable hard top??)

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville



Hard Top Is it removable without a hacksaw???

DWS

Billr wrote:
FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and 
take

pictures, but call him first.
My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my
300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
BillR

1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
Accessories:
Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
Name: David
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 904-699-3774





Re: [MBZ] Flushing transmissions (was Luckiest man in the world!)

2007-02-05 Thread Werner Fehlauer
David - another good reason to drive a Benz!  Actually, I would be concerned 
with what the shop was using to flush the transmission system - if it was 
virgin fluid of the same type that is required for operation, fine - but if 
they are using something like a solvent or el cheapo oil, perhaps not 
carefully handled, then I still think that flushing can do more harm than 
good.
After all, when you change the engine oil in an M-B, you always leave some 
of the old oil in the hoses and cooler system, so that there's possibly some 
of the original break-in oil in the engine after 200k miles, albeit an 
insignificant amount.  Doesn't hurt the engine in practice, so my opinion is 
that changing filter and more than half of the transmission fluid is still 
safer than mixing in some unknown stuff.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Luckiest man in the world!



Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Sounds like another good reason NOT to give extra $$ to a shop to flush 
a

transmission.  Other than a good profit maker for the shop, a flushing
process can do more harm than good, since it can bypasses the built-in
filter system, and puts a fluid of unknown quality in the system.
IMO, a complete drain of trans. and torque converter, change of filter 
and

gasket, and refill with quality fluid should suffice.  There's no need to
connect/disconnect lines and hoses.



True for Mercedes cars, but keep in mind there are many cars out there
that lack torque converter drain plugs.  There is no way to completely
change the fluid in those cars except by flushing it.





Re: [MBZ] '81 300 CD in Jacksonville

2007-02-05 Thread Gary Hurst

i'm surprised you guys don't know what hardtop means?  that is old
guy speak for lacking a b pillar.  to explain further:  you notice
when you roll down all the windows in your 300D, it is not all air,
but there is pillar right in the middle of your view that if you
thought about you'd wish would go away?.  that's your B pillar and a
hardtop don't have that.

makes me yearn for a 70s sedan de ville.


On 2/5/07, Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hard Top Is it removable without a hacksaw???

DWS

Billr wrote:
 FYI - Didn't give the mileage.  Any interest I could look at it and take
 pictures, but call him first.
 My nephew is a local mechanic who is familiar with MB's and works on my
 300SD.  He could do a once over on it if there is serious interest.
 BillR

 1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD
 1981 Mercedes Benz 300CD - Green Ext. with Beige Int.- Body in good
 condition - Int. needs a little work - Asking $1,500.00
 Accessories:
 Hard Top, Power Steering, Power Windows, Cruise Control, $1,500.00
 Name: David
 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Phone: 904-699-3774



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 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] RPM, alternator, battery charging

2007-02-05 Thread Peter Frederick
You won't get much power at less that 1000 rpm, in fact it won't 
usually charge much at less than 1500 rpm (engine, the alternator is 
going faster).  Max output by 2500 or so, limited by the regulator.


Peter