[MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Zoltan Finks
I guess I'm now a member of the sunroof trouble club.

I noticed after buying the 87 190D that the sunroof didn't close fully
one time. So I re-opened it and closed it and it thunked shut loudly.

Since then, it sort of thunked loudly when shutting but closed reliably.

Tonight, it closed almost fully, but that's it. I re-opened it and
tried to close it - no dice.

And then it started to open and close very slowly.

And now it won't move.

Question: If I try to crank it shut manually in the trunk will I bolix it up?

And: What is best course to fix this?

I know I've heard of this official Geitpaste or however it's spelled
and pronounced. But I haven't the foggiest on how to apply it, or it
it's even the appropriate measure.

Thanks
Brian

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(wasRe:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Scott Ritchey
Have you adjusted the IP rack damper?  Maybe I missed this but the damper
screw should also be replaced by the new (gold color) part.  Way easier than
the motor mounts.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of George Larribeau
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing
Injectors(wasRe:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

The mounts are next ...
However I am becoming concerned that there is something more serious about
it. The trans mount bolts look somewhat shinny.

I tried unloosening each injector pipe and each one makes it run weirder but
don't know what is up. The vibration frequency is high enough that the motor
does no look like it is bouncing around. The vibration telegraphs through
the thing and the air cleaned 'buzzes'. The most concerning part is that
there is a lower frequency throb to it. It is almost like a high frequency
spike the is not real deep.

I got under it an the tranny is not moving around, I hope it's the mounts
...



George Larribeau

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 6:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was
Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

Replacing the motor and transmission mounts on my 87 SDL helped the
vibration at idle immensely. I was timid about jacking up the engine
at the oil pan to get enough clearance to slide in the new engine
mounts so I pulled out the Harbor Freight foldable shop crane.
In the past, Marshall has recommended using the Mercedes Parts for
mounts as the aftermarket ones don't last as long. I did not know
better at the time and used the cheap ones. They are working fine for
now. Next time I'll use the good ones.

-Dave Walton

On 9/17/07, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Runs rough at idle extra noticeable when cold. Seems to be happier above
 1100 RPM or so This RPM is a bit higher when cold. It is better after I
get
 it on the 'Freeway' it gets up to operating temperature. The idle speed
 could be a tad lower that I remember but it is, it would be a hair.  When
it
 is at it worst it makes the hood noticeably vibrate and there is a low
 frequency shaking. Some vibration induced buzzing noises inside the car.
 When I open the hood it doesn't appear to be visibly vibrating all that
 much. Does not take much throttle to get it to clear up (under load)



 I have not noticed a decrease in power however, subjectively it seems a
bit
 weaker when cold but this is hard to determine. Nothing major here. There
is
 a ramp I take off West I636 on to N I35E that it seems to act the same on
as
 far as power. It is a place where I need to get from 35 - 40 to 70 plus.
 Does not seam any different here. It doesn't appear to smoke in ant
unusual
 way. From a drivers perspective the only noticeable smoke I ever get from
it
 is mainly noticeable at night where the headlights of cars behind reflect
 it.  It does not emit any thing nasty and if I don't wash it for a while
 there is only a slight discoloration of soot on the bumper.


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 - Original Message -
 From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)


  George Larribeau wrote:
  I replaced the injectors Saturday morning, to make a long story short
it
  may
  have changed my perception of the behavior but it did not fix it.
 
  Could you refresh us on the details of the original problem?
 
  John
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD NastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Barry Stark
George -
The only thing the engine mount shocks do is to minimize the shaking when
the engine is shut down. You might want to test them first before you buy
new ones as they rarely go bad, OTOH you can replace the mounting kits for
the shocks when you replace the engine mounts.

Barry


 The front mounts are questionable and the engine shocks don't
 look happy. I
 will order new ones tomorrow.




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Re: [MBZ] Tools for adjusting front wheel bearings

2007-09-18 Thread Scott Ritchey
In my experience (comparing a dial gage with feel) the nut setting is
right when you can just feel the slightest movement when you push/pull on
the brake disk.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tools for adjusting front wheel bearings

On 9/14/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Found a dial indicator on eBay which has 0.0001 resolution (quite
 adequate for adjusting front wheel bearings :-) ) for $15. The fellow says
 he has 12, so I thought I'd pass the information along.


http://cgi.ebay.com/dial-indicator_W0QQitemZ200146195835QQihZ010QQcategoryZ2
5272QQcmdZViewItem



I've never done wheel bearings. Don't you need a hook or at least some
way to attach a wire to test the preload?  I can't tell from the
picture whether this item has a suitable fixture.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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[MBZ] Adjusting front wheel bearings and Chinese jackstands

2007-09-18 Thread archer
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   On 9/14/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Found a dial indicator on eBay which has 0.0001 resolution (quite
adequate for adjusting front wheel bearings :-) ) for $15. The
fellow says he has 12, so I thought I'd pass the information
along.
http://cgi.ebay.com/dial-indicator_W0QQitemZ200146195835QQihZ010QQcategoryZ25272QQcmdZViewItem
   I've never done wheel bearings. Don't you need a hook or at least
   some way to attach a wire to test the preload?  I can't tell from
   the picture whether this item has a suitable fixture.
 
  You fasten the dial indicator to the brake disk hub with a magnetic
  base and put the tip of the indicator on the end of the spindle. Then
  you grab the brake disk with both hands and move it in and out. The
  amount of movement the dial indicator should show should be about
  0.0005. [That's the gist of what the manual says, anyhow.]
  Craig

 Oh, OK, that makes sense.  I get it now.  So where did you get the
 magnetic base?  Same seller?

 No, from a different seller. Just search eBay for dial indicator and
 you'll get some magnetic bases, too. I don't recall if I also searched
 for magnetic base.
 Craig
 ___
I bought a very nice one from Sears about ten years ago for a reasonable 
price that works well.  Hard to say what their price is now after combining 
with KMart.

Also, I suspect that some of the adjustable Chinese jackstands have  proven 
unreliable.  The local Autozone store has replaced them with the old pin 
type in a heavier duty design with four legs and a 3/8 pin.  Sears and 
Walmart also sell the adjustables but I haven't been in those stores lately. 
The rachets on the ones I have, which were bought from Walmart, are very 
easy to engage only half way if you simply slide them under the car and 
rachet them up.  Even though the rachet stands are very convenient, I'm 
using the pin type when I get under the car from now on.
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D 


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[MBZ] Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread archer
A ten year old 6000 btu Amana Quiet Cool window A/c in the shop quit running 
after I had smelled hot electronics for a short while.  The circuit boards, 
the fan motor, and the wiring don't look smoked; but the condenser is so 
rusty I wonder if it might be the cause of the smell.
The circuit diagram is illegible from exposure to rain, etc.  The fan motor 
has three leads so I suspected it is a typical three speed motor setup and 
it was confirmed on the label but the label gave no color codes for the 
wires.  The compressor also has three leads and a (common?) lead comes in 
through a separate thermal switch .

The part I find confusing is a big capacitor which has three leads and a 
rating of both 7.5 mfd and 35 mfd.  From looking at the label on the blower 
motor, it doesn't appear to be a capacitor start or capacitor run motor, so 
I would guess that both the blower motor and the compressor use the 
capacitor simply to give them a little more amperage when they start up 
since they both start at once on some settings of the dial; but that's just 
a wild guess.

If the fan motor and compressor are both good, I would like to hook them up 
to a household type 24v transformer, relay, thermostat arrangement and 
eliminate the pc boards whether they are good or not.  I'm a little afraid 
to try 110v on the fan and compressor to see if they are good since I'm not 
familiar with pc board controlled appliances and they may require some sort 
of hookups with the capacitor.  Both the fan motor and the compressor are 
thermally protected so it probably would be safe enough.  All suggestions 
will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gerry
Thanks,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Scott Ritchey
I replaced my motor mounts and it made the motor shake worse.  Maybe the new
mounts were too stiff (I didn't get them from Rusty, bad mistake).  The old
mounts looked soft and were somewhat compressed.  This is not a real hard
job (harder on a turbo because of the dampers) but I did have to work to
make the bolt holes line up.  Maybe there is a trick but I never discovered
it.  I just used a piece of 2x4 to horse the motor around trying to align
the holes.  For sure, use a big piece of wood between the jack and the oil
pan so you don't ding the pan.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was
Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

Replacing the motor and transmission mounts on my 87 SDL helped the
vibration at idle immensely. I was timid about jacking up the engine
at the oil pan to get enough clearance to slide in the new engine
mounts so I pulled out the Harbor Freight foldable shop crane.
In the past, Marshall has recommended using the Mercedes Parts for
mounts as the aftermarket ones don't last as long. I did not know
better at the time and used the cheap ones. They are working fine for
now. Next time I'll use the good ones.

-Dave Walton

On 9/17/07, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Runs rough at idle extra noticeable when cold. Seems to be happier above
 1100 RPM or so This RPM is a bit higher when cold. It is better after I
get
 it on the 'Freeway' it gets up to operating temperature. The idle speed
 could be a tad lower that I remember but it is, it would be a hair.  When
it
 is at it worst it makes the hood noticeably vibrate and there is a low
 frequency shaking. Some vibration induced buzzing noises inside the car.
 When I open the hood it doesn't appear to be visibly vibrating all that
 much. Does not take much throttle to get it to clear up (under load)



 I have not noticed a decrease in power however, subjectively it seems a
bit
 weaker when cold but this is hard to determine. Nothing major here. There
is
 a ramp I take off West I636 on to N I35E that it seems to act the same on
as
 far as power. It is a place where I need to get from 35 - 40 to 70 plus.
 Does not seam any different here. It doesn't appear to smoke in ant
unusual
 way. From a drivers perspective the only noticeable smoke I ever get from
it
 is mainly noticeable at night where the headlights of cars behind reflect
 it.  It does not emit any thing nasty and if I don't wash it for a while
 there is only a slight discoloration of soot on the bumper.


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 - Original Message -
 From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)


  George Larribeau wrote:
  I replaced the injectors Saturday morning, to make a long story short
it
  may
  have changed my perception of the behavior but it did not fix it.
 
  Could you refresh us on the details of the original problem?
 
  John
 
 
  ___
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  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Transmission Toast

2007-09-18 Thread Scott Ritchey
Rusty's Bosch reman alternators are also way good in my experience.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission Toast

Rusty wrote:rebuilder pays the freight and 8 hours labor on his
transmissions. Of course I have only had 3 warranties in 32 years

Wow Rusty!!
That's something you should really advertise!  It's *very* rare to get that 
kind of service from rebuilt *anything* !  Should splash it across your home

page!

It's one of the many things that seperates you from the parts sellers of the

world.  You;re a real parts service provider.

Take care --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.


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Re: [MBZ] Quick Mercedes trivia questions: Seat belts standard when?

2007-09-18 Thread Robert Bigham
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 23:15:16 -0500
 tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED]  wrote
Subject: [MBZ] Quick Mercedes trivia questions
 
I'm helping someone compose the Mercedes Story for children and she's 
got me stumped on a couple of points:
 
When did seat belts become standard in Mercedes? 1964? And is it true 
that MB was the first carmaker to install them as standard equipment? 
(Besides Tucker, I mean.)
 
Appreciate any insight,
Tom
 __

I don't know about Mercedes.  

Seat belts became standard on Fords for production or delivery 
beginnning January 1, 1964, no doubt because of Federal Law.

I ordered a new 1964 Ford delivered in December 1963 and had 
to pay extra for belts.  If I had waited until after January 1, the belts
would have come standard, along with snazzy plastic boots on the 
anchorage end of the belts.  

I was unable to buy the plastic boots for my belts, and had problems 
with the metal on the end of the belts lying sideways and getting hit 
by the door panel when I closed the door.  Hard on door panels.

If Mercedes made belts standard in 1964, it's like the 95 year old man
who married the 20 yr old girl: Not because he wanted to, because he
had to.

Hochachtunsvoll.





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Re: [MBZ] Tools for adjusting front wheel bearings

2007-09-18 Thread Mitch Haley


Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
 In my experience (comparing a dial gage with feel) the nut setting is
 right when you can just feel the slightest movement when you push/pull on
 the brake disk.

That may vary. It's been a while, but I believe my minimum feel is in the
range of .001 to .002. I had no problem adjusting motorcycle valves to
.004-.006 and .008-.010 by feel, and then checking with a go-nogo gauge to
make sure it was in range (It always was). I would not have tried do anything
below .002 by feel, it would have been a waste of time instead of a time-saver. 

If it's a one-off job, instead of one you do daily and develop a feel for,
I'd use proper measuring tools every time. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 archer wrote:
  All suggestions will be appreciated.

 I bought a Sunbeam 5000 BTU unit for $80 at Circuit City this year.
 I just checked, and it seems that all they have now are portable units
 for $300+. Is the EER on your existing unit at least 9?
___

It is.  It was top-rated at Consumers Reports when I bought it.  There are 
plenty of window units available locally at 10.xx EER and at cheap prices, 
but I'd rather fix this one and rig it with a remote thermostat if it's 
fixable.  All the new ones use complex PC boards with handheld wireless 
controllers.  When I go in the shop and turn on the main power switches, the 
new type Sharp A/C in the other side of the shop has to be turned on with 
the remote and now it has to be turned on manually because the remote went 
bad and Sharp wants $50! for a new one!

One thing I've been curious about is the kind of compressors these newer 
A/Cs have.  They are long, narrow compressors; much smaller than the old 
type.  I would guess they would be rotary screw compressors on the order 
of the large ones in big commercial installations.  The Sharp makes a very 
steady tone comparable to the large commercial compressors steady roar.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 And then it started to open and close very slowly.
 And now it won't move.

So sad.  You waited a bit long it seems.

 Question: If I try to crank it shut manually in the trunk will I bolix 
 it up?

Possibly.  No real choice, however.

 And: What is best course to fix this?

You don't have any option but to get it partially open and then service
it per the manual.  Is this a popup type?  Better hope not.

 I know I've heard of this official Geitpaste or however it's spelled
 and pronounced. But I haven't the foggiest on how to apply it, or it
 it's even the appropriate measure.

A film can's worth is good for a car or two.  The manual tells how,
or you may be able to glean some information from my sagas:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwsunroof.html
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html#sunroof

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 The fan motor has three leads so I suspected it is a typical
 three speed motor setup

Probably two speeds with only three leads.  Such motors don't
need capacitors for starting or running as they don't start
under load.  My understanding is that they're usually just
shaded-pole motors, but those aren't as efficient.  It's
possible that the efficiency drive has even gotten to the
blower motor too.

 The compressor also has three leads and a (common?) lead comes in
 through a separate thermal switch .

 The part I find confusing is a big capacitor which has three leads and 
 a
 rating of both 7.5 mfd and 35 mfd.

Sounds like the compressor is cap-start and cap-run.  You should be
able to trace the circuitry enough to figure out where this (important)
capacitor goes.  The rest of the electronics is just crap and can
be replaced by a switch or two, as you surmise.

 ... they may require some sort of hookups with the capacitor.

They do.  But just trace the wiring, you'll get close enough.
The command and control stuff is small and fiddly, but the big
power paths are usually still easy to map out.

 One thing I've been curious about is the kind of compressors these 
 newer
 A/Cs have.  They are long, narrow compressors; much smaller than the 
 old
 type.  I would guess they would be rotary screw compressors on the 
 order
 of the large ones in big commercial installations.  The Sharp makes a 
 very
 steady tone comparable to the large commercial compressors steady 
 roar.

Scroll/roll type?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond

The cable is the best place to start. Call Rusty and get some of the paste.
Then get a small bottle brush that'll fit down the tube, its about 1/4 
diameter or so. Also get about 8' of wire. Its got to be fairly strong but not 
super strong. 14ga house wire might work, 16ga would be better if you can get 
it.
Then pull the headliner on the sunroof off, its easier if you start with it 
open. Just pull down on it, maybe use a plastic paint scraper to wedge it open.
Disconnect the cable from the sunroof and run it out so it comes up out of the 
tube. Feed it out through the sunroof. WEAR GLOVES! Spend some time with some 
brake cleaner cleaning it up good.
In the trunk disconnect the motor from the tube. I honestly don't remember how 
that works, its been 3 years since I did it, you'll figure it out it's not 
magic.
Attach the wire to the brush.
Shoot brake cleaner down the tube from the sunroof end. Then feed the brush 
down it. Work the brush back and forth, add brake cleaner, brush some more.
Did I mention a pan in the trunk to catch the brake cleaner?
Once the tube is clean (I wrapped my brush in paper towel for one last swipe) 
and the cable is clean stand in the car with your sunroof paste, get a good 
glob on your hand and glob it on the cable as you feed it back into the tube.

As a last step you can use an acid brush to paint the channels the sunroof 
rides in.

Now as a note when I did this on my 240D I took the sunroof out and messed with 
it. BIG MISTAKE. Cost me several hundred dollars for my Indy to fix what I 
bodgered...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 00:31:55 -0700
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Sunroof quit
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I guess I'm now a member of the sunroof trouble club.

I noticed after buying the 87 190D that the sunroof didn't close fully
one time. So I re-opened it and closed it and it thunked shut loudly.

Since then, it sort of thunked loudly when shutting but closed
 reliably.

Tonight, it closed almost fully, but that's it. I re-opened it and
tried to close it - no dice.

And then it started to open and close very slowly.

And now it won't move.

Question: If I try to crank it shut manually in the trunk will I bolix
 it up?

And: What is best course to fix this?

I know I've heard of this official Geitpaste or however it's spelled
and pronounced. But I haven't the foggiest on how to apply it, or it
it's even the appropriate measure.

Thanks
Brian

   
-
Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
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Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(wasRe:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond

Apparently that wasn't the problem on your car.
All 3 of my MBs have needed motor mounts. On all 3 I could see the engine 
shaking and could feel it transmitted into the passenger compartment.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 04:18:14 -0400
From: Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I replaced my motor shocks and was surprised how little difference it
 made.
This is not the fix for a shakey motor.

Scott Ritchey

   
-
 Check out  the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Well I have had 3 2.5 turbos with the panels there.  I am not sure why they 
would be different, the chassis is the same.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset


 On 9/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  The description says it's super quite with the enclosure on---so how
  quite is it really, compared to an idling 603 with the hood down,
  say?

 Does your 603 have intact belly pans?  Makes quite a diff!
 :-)


 That's funny.  Tell me another one!  ;)

 Seriously, I have NEVER seen a 603 with intact belly pans.   Neither
 of the two '87 300Ds I've owned, nor any of the dozen or so 300Ds and
 300SDLs I've happened to glance under in the ten years or so since I
 contracted dieselitis, have had them still installed.

 I can't imagine that used ones would be worth bothering with, and I am
 too cheap to pay for new replacements, although I have been curious
 for a while whether the panels from the 300D 2.5 could be made to fit
 since they're much cheaper.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
0400075929, thats the bosch number on the tag.  Let me know what you find 
out.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP


 p/n?

 Luther

 On Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:28:54 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin, work 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 yea, its going to have to come apart.  Let me get the part number and see
 what you can come up with.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor





 -- 
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
 '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
 '82 300CD (166 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration

2007-09-18 Thread John Robbins
George Larribeau wrote:
 A possibility is the rack damper bolt on the back of the IP, but, if it
 was mis-adjusted or worn out, I think you would see the engine visibly
 rock (its been like that when I've adjusted mine).
 
 visibly rock??? How much ??

A lot.  Like ~2 side to side.  When I was adjusting mine and it was 
running like that, it didn't make any cabin noise/vibration, but it 
shook the car side to side.

John


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Re: [MBZ] CarFax, please

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
   Motor Vehicle Dept.  TITLE (Title #:0080657629)
02/04/2003  SOUTHEASTERN REGION  57,536  Auto Auction  REPORTED 
AT AUTO AUCTION
02/06/2003  SOUTHEASTERN REGION  57,536  Auto Auction  AUCTION 
ANNOUNCED AS FLEET/LEASE
02/24/2003  FL  57,569  Motor Vehicle Dept.  ODOMETER READING 
FROM DMV
02/24/2003  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  REGISTRATION 
EVENT/RENEWAL
02/28/2003  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  TITLE (Title 
#:0080657629) (Lien Reported)
03/03/2003  FL  58,000  Independent Source  INDEPENDENT 
INSPECTION
02/26/2004  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  REGISTRATION 
EVENT/RENEWAL
02/23/2005  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  REGISTRATION 
EVENT/RENEWAL
03/02/2006  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  REGISTRATION 
EVENT/RENEWAL
02/23/2007  JACKSONVILLE, FL   Motor Vehicle Dept.  REGISTRATION 
EVENT/RENEWAL
04/02/2007  FL  114,071  Auto Auction  REPORTED AT AUTO AUCTION
04/03/2007  FL  114,071  Auto Auction  REPORTED AT AUTO AUCTION 
AS DEALER VEHICLE



  This Vehicle's Glossary
Below are the specific definitions for events that appear in 
this vehicle's report.
More information is available in the full AutoCheck glossary.


Term  Section Location  Definition

Loan/Lien  Vehicle Use and EventCheck  A loan/lien is the legal 
right to take and hold or sell the vehicle of a debtor as security or 
payment for a debt. Normally, a vehicle will have a lien due to a loan or 
unpaid repair bill against the vehicle.
Lease  Vehicle Use and EventCheck  Vehicle was registered as 
lease vehicle.
Fleet and/or Rental  Vehicle Use and EventCheck  The vehicle is 
or was operated as a fleet and/or rental vehicle.
Fleet and/or Lease  Vehicle Use and EventCheck  Vehicle is or 
was operated as a fleet vehicle or vehicle is assigned to a pool of vehicles 
usually owned/leased and operated by a company.




---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: billr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: [MBZ] CarFax, please


 Hi Kaleb [or anyone who has a carfax account] - My daughter is looking for 
 a used car and is interested in this one.
 Carfax appreciated.
 Thanks - BillR

 1C3EJ56H7YN221871

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Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(wasRe:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Tom Hargrave
I agree, before you can properly solve a problem you have to diagnose the
problem. 

Replacing motor mounts will nothing for an injection problem, replacing
injectors will do nothing for a compression problem, etc, etc.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:22 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ]
Fw:ReplacingInjectors(wasRe:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)


Apparently that wasn't the problem on your car.
All 3 of my MBs have needed motor mounts. On all 3 I could see the engine
shaking and could feel it transmitted into the passenger compartment.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 04:18:14 -0400
From: Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I replaced my motor shocks and was surprised how little difference it
 made.
This is not the fix for a shakey motor.

Scott Ritchey

   
-
 Check out  the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Replacing Injectors(was Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread John Robbins
George Larribeau wrote:
 I tried unloosening each injector pipe and each one makes it run weirder but
 don't know what is up. 

What matters is that they all make it run weirder in the same way.  If 
one changes the idle less than the others is when you have an 
injection/compression/etc problem.  If they all changed the same then 
just get the new motor mounts in there.  They aren't very expensive, and 
are most likely bad anyway.

John


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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Mon, 17 Sep 2007 13:10:26 -0500, Donald wrote:

 You may wonder why I am on here, I just traded in my
 Mercedes and haven't gotten the next one.  

No need for excuses. Once someone has the mindset to care for a
car, they will fit in here - even if they only one a golf cart.

-- Philip, with a herd of W123s

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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

2007-09-18 Thread Rich Thomas

  I.B.M. to Offer Office Software Free in Challenge to Microsoft's Line

By STEVE LOHR 
http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/l/steve_lohr/index.html?inline=nyt-per
Published: September 18, 2007

I.B.M. 
http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/business/companies/international_business_machines/index.html?inline=nyt-org
 
plans to mount its most ambitious challenge in years to Microsoft 
http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/business/companies/microsoft_corporation/index.html?inline=nyt-org's
 
dominance of personal computer software, by offering free programs for 
word processing, spreadsheets and presentations.


Steven A. Mills, senior vice president of I.B.M.'s software group, said 
the programs promote an open-source document format.


The company is announcing the desktop software, called I.B.M. Lotus 
Symphony, at an event today in New York. The programs will be available 
as free downloads from the I.B.M. Web site.

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/18/technology/18blue.html?_r=1ref=technologyoref=slogin

--

LarryT wrote:
 Agree mostly.  The one thing I use all the time in Word if printing 
 envelopes.  Perhaps Open does it also and I haven't found it yet.  Other 
 than that - and considering it;s free makes it a very good Suite.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .

 - Original Message - 
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 1:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007


   
 I've used open office for over a year now.  It can do everything Micro$#!t
 can do that the average user needs.  It has most of the features that most
 advanced users need.  You can't beat the price and
 cross-platform-compatibility with Win/Mac/Linux/Sparc/Solaris/FreeBSD etc.

 Luther

 On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 13:44:17 -0500, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 
 I got openoffice with my new refurb laptop.  Seems to work very well!


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 12Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  280KMI  Inherited by Grandson
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:02:34 -0500, you wrote:

   
 www.openoffice.org  an even better deal

 --R

 
 -- 
 Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 
 9/16/2007 6:32 PM

 


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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

2007-09-18 Thread LarryT
Agree mostly.  The one thing I use all the time in Word if printing 
envelopes.  Perhaps Open does it also and I haven't found it yet.  Other 
than that - and considering it;s free makes it a very good Suite.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007


 I've used open office for over a year now.  It can do everything Micro$#!t
 can do that the average user needs.  It has most of the features that most
 advanced users need.  You can't beat the price and
 cross-platform-compatibility with Win/Mac/Linux/Sparc/Solaris/FreeBSD etc.

 Luther

 On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 13:44:17 -0500, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 I got openoffice with my new refurb laptop.  Seems to work very well!


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 12Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  280KMI  Inherited by Grandson
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
 is!On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 12:02:34 -0500, you wrote:

 www.openoffice.org  an even better deal

 --R


 -- 
 Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1012 - Release Date: 
 9/16/2007 6:32 PM
 


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Re: [MBZ] CarFax, please

2007-09-18 Thread Mitch Haley
So it was leased in 2000, auctioned to a dealer  resold less than a year later
(first owner must not have liked it), traded in 2003, auctioned to dealer,
resold, traded in 2007, auctioned to dealer, and now the car's been sitting
there unsold since April? Quite a history for a 7 year old car, not that it
really says anything about the car itself. A good PPI would tell you more about
the car's condition than trying to draw inferences from the Carfax, but at
least it hasn't been stolen, crashed, or flooded. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 What does this mean for my 240D? I am thinking of changing t'stat at 
 the
 some time as changing coolant. Is it a sequence issue?

If you remove the thermostat there is little to no flow through
the radiator.  Either flush with a thermostat, letting the car get
hot enough to open it, or replace the thermostat with a special
bypass thermostat.  (I use a wedged-open dead thermostat.)  That
will close the bypass passage, forcing all flow through the radiator.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-18 Thread Tom Hargrave
Don't be too hard on your Son. Good 50 year old mechanics with business
minds aren't turning wrenches anymore. They own their own shops  are making
6 figure incomes  the first digit isn't a 1.

Tom
www.kegkits.com
 
Original Message
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 09/15/07 03:30 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 I think that there is hope - todays kids seem drawn to cars the way many
of 
 us were in the 50s and 60s.  They do much of their own work and understand

 how their cars work.
 
 Although it seems a lot of kids are unwilling to choose this line of work.

 A local community college president related this story - a local Ford
dealer 
 told the Pres he would hire any students graduating from the CCs auto 
 technology program at a starting salary of $50K /yr. This was 5 years ago
so 
 I suspect it has gone up.  Sadly there were few takers.
 
 Oh well, life goes on --

My 14 y/o son wants to go into a mechanical or electrical trade when he
graduates high school. I have no problem with that, however I have explained
to him that when he gets to be 50 plus years old, he may not like turning
wrenches 40 hours a week any more. I am twisting his arm to go to college
first. He is very intelligent and will do well whatever profession he
chooses. He traded a bicycle for a non-running 5hp Honda engine. He was
thrilled to have it running within an hour of getting it home. Instead of
him taking stuff apart and ME putting it back together correctly, he is
getting better about completing tasks like this with little input from me. 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?

2007-09-18 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Jim,
What does this mean for my 240D? I am thinking of changing t'stat at the
some time as changing coolant. Is it a sequence issue?
Thanks.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
Wickford, RI



You wrote 


You should NEVER remove the thermostat on cars (yours) with the double  
acting thermostat that closes the bypass when the thermostat opens.  If you
have 
trouble with venting, the small metal tube off the top of the pump housing  
could be clogged.
 


** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 9/18/2007 2:20:58 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

A ten  year old 6000 btu Amana Quiet Cool window A/c in the shop quit running 
 
after I had smelled hot electronics for a short while.  The circuit  boards, 
the fan motor, and the wiring don't look smoked; but the condenser  is so 
rusty I wonder if it might be the cause of the smell.
The circuit  diagram is illegible from exposure to rain, etc.  The fan motor 
has  three leads so I suspected it is a typical three speed motor setup and 
it  was confirmed on the label but the label gave no color codes for the  
wires.  The compressor also has three leads and a (common?) lead  comes in 
through a separate thermal switch .

The part I find  confusing is a big capacitor which has three leads and a 
rating of both  7.5 mfd and 35 mfd.  From looking at the label on the blower 
motor,  it doesn't appear to be a capacitor start or capacitor run motor, so 
I  would guess that both the blower motor and the compressor use the  
capacitor simply to give them a little more amperage when they start up  
since they both start at once on some settings of the dial; but that's  just 
a wild guess.



Gerry,  
 
I believe you will find that this is  a RUN  capacitor, dual  rated with the 
lower rating going to the condenser fan motor, and the higher for  the 
compressor.  The cooling fan does not require a capacitor. Look  carefully for 
swelling, especially on the ends, and of course, leakage.  A  10 year old cap 
is 
your likely your culprit, with my guess being the condenser  fan motor will not 
run and is overheating, causing the smell.  The  condenser fan should spin 
freely and being outdoors, can  start to seize up over time.  Oil might be all 
you 
need.
 
Both Johnstones and Graingers have good prices on these and will take cash  
sales from individuals.
 
I would not screw with the controls as there are a lot of safety devices  and 
interlocks.  You don't want to set fire to your window, and all that is  
attached!  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?

2007-09-18 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 9/18/2007 8:13:09 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Jim,
What does this mean for my 240D? I am thinking of changing  t'stat at the
some time as changing coolant. Is it a sequence  issue?
Thanks.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D- auto  -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
Wickford,  RI



You wrote 


You should NEVER remove the  thermostat on cars (yours) with the double  
acting thermostat that  closes the bypass when the thermostat opens.  If you
have 
trouble  with venting, the small metal tube off the top of the pump housing   
could be clogged.



Dwight,
 
Restated, you should never operate the engine, under load, with the  
thermostat removed.  This applies to nearly every engine since emissions  have 
become 
an issue.   MB and many other cars use the double  disc thermostat that allows 
recircing the coolant in the engine for quick warm  up, then closes the 
recirc port as the engine warms enough to open the cooling  port.  
 
Many of us have gone through the 50's and 60's, tossing the thermostats in  a 
box somewhere.  NO MORE!  Maintaining design operating temperature  is 
critical to engine efficiency, oil control, and of course, emissions.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD NastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Redghost
It sure fixed the shakes Gump was having.  Sitting at idle waiting  
for the light to turn green subjected passengers to rigorous  
imitations of bowls of jello.  Once the new mounts were in, she  
calmed down so that engine motion was once more a purr

clay

On 18 Sep 2007, at 01:18, Scott Ritchey wrote:

 I replaced my motor shocks and was surprised how little difference  
 it made.
 This is not the fix for a shakey motor.

 Scott Ritchey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:mercedes- 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Barry Stark
 Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:14 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ]Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)

 George -
 The only thing the engine mount shocks do is to minimize the  
 shaking when
 the engine is shut down. You might want to test them first before  
 you buy
 new ones as they rarely go bad, OTOH you can replace the mounting  
 kits for
 the shocks when you replace the engine mounts.

 Barry


 The front mounts are questionable and the engine shocks don't
 look happy. I
 will order new ones tomorrow.




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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Mitch Haley


dave walton wrote:
 
 Any suggestions what to look out for?

Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a 
17 year old 4c4?

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread George Larribeau
I think they all made it  weirder in the same way very subjective. This 
was done on a warmed up engine.
I ordered a set of mounts motor and tranny , engine shocks and installation 
kits for the shocks. The shocks look original and the rubber mounts for the 
shock are dried and cracked. The engine mounts have been there for a while 
(corrosion on bolts) but don't look all that nasty. I think the Trany mount 
was service by the previous owner (hard ware looks more recent) but it is 
not all that expensive and this way I will know its age.

I now believe that the replacement injectors do make it run a bit stronger. 
It is responsive and accerallates as good as is has ever as far as my 
experience with it.


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas




- Original Message - 
From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: ReplacingInjectors(was 
Re:1985300SDNastyEngineVibration)


 George Larribeau wrote:
 I tried unloosening each injector pipe and each one makes it run weirder 
 but
 don't know what is up.

 What matters is that they all make it run weirder in the same way.  If
 one changes the idle less than the others is when you have an
 injection/compression/etc problem.  If they all changed the same then
 just get the new motor mounts in there.  They aren't very expensive, and
 are most likely bad anyway.

 John


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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Rusty Cullens
No special juice, she is ok.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


 My sister went against my advice and bought a 91 4Matic wagon. Can I
 use Mobil-1 ATF, or do they require some special juice?
 
 Any suggestions what to look out for?
 
 Thanks
 
 -Dave Walton
 
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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread dave walton
The irony is that she bought the 91 wagon because her diesel Jetta is
having transmission problems. At least the whole Mercedes cost less
than the rebuilt transmission for the Jetta. Who was it that said the
most expensive car you can buy is a cheap Mercedes?

-Dave Walton

On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 dave walton wrote:
 
  Any suggestions what to look out for?

 Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
 17 year old 4c4?

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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 dave walton wrote:
 
  Any suggestions what to look out for?

 Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
 17 year old 4c4?



I have been told that the conventional wisdom that first-generation
4-Matics are money pits is no longer true, the reason being that most
are now on their third or fourth transfer case, and Mercedes finally
got the design right after numerous in-the-field refinements (sort of
like 603 heads).  Small comfort!  For similar comfort and performance
with way more reliability and parts availability, though, I'd pick any
late 5-cylinder Audi Quattro.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?/ Current Star Article

2007-09-18 Thread JFreezn
George Murphy presents MB latest move into extended interval/lifetime  
services with an interesting coolant article.  It appears that most MB  
produced 
since 2003 will qualify for the new 15 year, 150,000 mile coolant  lifetime.  
Controlling Ph appears to be the central feature of this  program.  Not 
acidic,as 
someone recently tried to expound on, but slightly  above neutral, 
approaching PH of 8.
 
This because of a time release from an additive package found in new and  
replacement coolant surge tanks.  From what I read, the current MB  coolant, as 
well as Zerex G-05, will remain the coolant of choice.  
 
This will certainly be interesting  to watch, following the recent  policy 
change on the lifetime fluid used in there automatic  transmissions.  My 98 
ML 
was delivered with this fluid, a sealed fill tube,  and NO dipstick.  Now the 
fluid  life corresponds to the 39,000 mile  service interval and a service 
dipstick is available.  
 
Worth reading,
 
Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles



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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
well the trans is a trans, its the same.  If you mean for the 4matic unit, 
it required SLS hydraulic fluid.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:14 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


 My sister went against my advice and bought a 91 4Matic wagon. Can I
 use Mobil-1 ATF, or do they require some special juice?

 Any suggestions what to look out for?

 Thanks

 -Dave Walton

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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Somebody who cant work on their own car?

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


 The irony is that she bought the 91 wagon because her diesel Jetta is
 having transmission problems. At least the whole Mercedes cost less
 than the rebuilt transmission for the Jetta. Who was it that said the
 most expensive car you can buy is a cheap Mercedes?
 
 -Dave Walton
 
 On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 dave walton wrote:
 
  Any suggestions what to look out for?

 Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
 17 year old 4c4?

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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?/ Current Star Article

2007-09-18 Thread Mitch Haley


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This will certainly be interesting  to watch, following the recent  policy
 change on the lifetime fluid used in there automatic  transmissions.  My 98 
 ML
 was delivered with this fluid, a sealed fill tube,  and NO dipstick.  Now the
 fluid  life corresponds to the 39,000 mile  service interval and a service
 dipstick is available.


I thought the service dipstick was always a publicly available factory tool.
Is it now a part instead of a tool?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD NastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-18 Thread Scott Ritchey
Guess the conclusion is that one needs to fix the thing that's broke.  

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Redghost
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ]Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD
NastyEngineVibration)

It sure fixed the shakes Gump was having.  Sitting at idle waiting  
for the light to turn green subjected passengers to rigorous  
imitations of bowls of jello.  Once the new mounts were in, she  
calmed down so that engine motion was once more a purr

clay

On 18 Sep 2007, at 01:18, Scott Ritchey wrote:

 I replaced my motor shocks and was surprised how little difference  
 it made.
 This is not the fix for a shakey motor.

 Scott Ritchey

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:mercedes- 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Barry Stark
 Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:14 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ]Fw:ReplacingInjectors(was Re:1985300SD
 NastyEngineVibration)

 George -
 The only thing the engine mount shocks do is to minimize the  
 shaking when
 the engine is shut down. You might want to test them first before  
 you buy
 new ones as they rarely go bad, OTOH you can replace the mounting  
 kits for
 the shocks when you replace the engine mounts.

 Barry


 The front mounts are questionable and the engine shocks don't
 look happy. I
 will order new ones tomorrow.




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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

2007-09-18 Thread Luther
Copied right from the help file.  See *.pdf attachment for the 1 minute 
envelope I just created.

Envelope
Creates an envelope. On three tab pages, you can specify the addressee and 
sender, the position and format for both addresses, the size of the envelope, 
and the envelope orientation.
To access this command...
Choose Insert - Envelope


Luther


On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 08:55:55 -0500, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Agree mostly.  The one thing I use all the time in Word if printing
 envelopes.  Perhaps Open does it also and I haven't found it yet.  Other
 than that - and considering it;s free makes it a very good Suite.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .

 - Original Message -
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 1:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007


 I've used open office for over a year now.  It can do everything Micro$#!t
 can do that the average user needs.  It has most of the features that most
 advanced users need.  You can't beat the price and
 cross-platform-compatibility with Win/Mac/Linux/Sparc/Solaris/FreeBSD etc.

 Luther





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

2007-09-18 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Tue, 18 Sep 2007 09:55:55 -0400, LarryT wrote:

 Agree mostly.  The one thing I use all the time in Word if printing 
 envelopes.  Perhaps Open does it also and I haven't found it yet.  Other 
 than that - and considering it;s free makes it a very good Suite.

I can't speak for Windows versions, but on Linux, I quite often
print envelopes. I recall I started with a template, but it was
a lng time ago.

--   Philip

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[MBZ] OT Light truck tires

2007-09-18 Thread Donald Snook
Sometime before winter I will need to get new tires for my wife's 97
Explorer 4WD.   She had BF Goodrich long trail (or some other similar
name). They have worn like iron.  We have put at least 30,000 miles
since we bought the car.  When I bought it, I thought we would need
tires soon.  But, we still have not gotten down to the wear bars -
although very close.  So, to those of you with trucks and suv's, what
are good tires for this vehicle.  I might just buy the same tires we
already have. I have had no complaints.   

 

Donald H. Snook

 

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Re: [MBZ] service dipstick

2007-09-18 Thread RELNGSON
I thought the service dipstick was always a publicly available factory 
tool. Is it now a part instead of a tool?

When I bought one in 2001 to use in my dipstickless   C320, it was called a 
special tool and priced as such.

RLE



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Re: [MBZ] OT Light truck tires

2007-09-18 Thread Allan Streib
Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 So, to those of you with trucks and suv's, what are good tires for
 this vehicle.  I might just buy the same tires we already have. I
 have had no complaints.

I always bought MasterCraft tires for my SUVs.  Made by Cooper.
Fairly cheap, as SUV tires go, and seemed good enough.  Never had any
problems with them. YMMV.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread dave walton
Does the transfer case have it's own fluid separate from the
transmission? If so, is it okay to use the same ATF?

Thanks

-Dave Walton

On 9/18/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  dave walton wrote:
  
   Any suggestions what to look out for?
 
  Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
  17 year old 4c4?
 
 

 I have been told that the conventional wisdom that first-generation
 4-Matics are money pits is no longer true, the reason being that most
 are now on their third or fourth transfer case, and Mercedes finally
 got the design right after numerous in-the-field refinements (sort of
 like 603 heads).  Small comfort!  For similar comfort and performance
 with way more reliability and parts availability, though, I'd pick any
 late 5-cylinder Audi Quattro.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
Well it takes SLS hydraulic fluid.  Im not sure if it also has a seperate 
lubrication but it is controlled/activated by the SLS fluid.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


 Does the transfer case have it's own fluid separate from the
 transmission? If so, is it okay to use the same ATF?

 Thanks

 -Dave Walton

 On 9/18/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  dave walton wrote:
  
   Any suggestions what to look out for?
 
  Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
  17 year old 4c4?
 
 

 I have been told that the conventional wisdom that first-generation
 4-Matics are money pits is no longer true, the reason being that most
 are now on their third or fourth transfer case, and Mercedes finally
 got the design right after numerous in-the-field refinements (sort of
 like 603 heads).  Small comfort!  For similar comfort and performance
 with way more reliability and parts availability, though, I'd pick any
 late 5-cylinder Audi Quattro.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread dave walton
Is that the self leveling suspension thing?

How many frigging fluids are in this beast?

-Dave Walton

On 9/18/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well it takes SLS hydraulic fluid.  Im not sure if it also has a seperate
 lubrication but it is controlled/activated by the SLS fluid.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:07 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


  Does the transfer case have it's own fluid separate from the
  transmission? If so, is it okay to use the same ATF?
 
  Thanks
 
  -Dave Walton
 
  On 9/18/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  On 9/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   dave walton wrote:
   
Any suggestions what to look out for?
  
   Somebody who will sell you an effective extended warranty on a
   17 year old 4c4?
  
  
 
  I have been told that the conventional wisdom that first-generation
  4-Matics are money pits is no longer true, the reason being that most
  are now on their third or fourth transfer case, and Mercedes finally
  got the design right after numerous in-the-field refinements (sort of
  like 603 heads).  Small comfort!  For similar comfort and performance
  with way more reliability and parts availability, though, I'd pick any
  late 5-cylinder Audi Quattro.
 
  Alex Chamberlain
  '87 300D Turbo et al.
 
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Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin, work
yes, self leveling suspension fluid

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4MATIC trans fluid?


 Is that the self leveling suspension thing?
 
 How many frigging fluids are in this beast?
 
 -Dave Walton


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread archer
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 A ten  year old 6000 btu Amana Quiet Cool window A/c in the shop quit 
 running
 after I had smelled hot electronics for a short while.  The circuit 
 boards,
 the fan motor, and the wiring don't look smoked; but the condenser  is so
 rusty I wonder if it might be the cause of the smell.
 The circuit  diagram is illegible from exposure to rain, etc.  The fan 
 motor
 has  three leads so I suspected it is a typical three speed motor setup 
 and
 it  was confirmed on the label but the label gave no color codes for the
 wires.  The compressor also has three leads and a (common?) lead  comes in
 through a separate thermal switch .

 The part I find  confusing is a big capacitor which has three leads and a
 rating of both  7.5 mfd and 35 mfd.  From looking at the label on the 
 blower
 motor,  it doesn't appear to be a capacitor start or capacitor run motor, 
 so
 I  would guess that both the blower motor and the compressor use the
 capacitor simply to give them a little more amperage when they start up
 since they both start at once on some settings of the dial; but that's 
 just
 a wild guess.

 Gerry,
 I believe you will find that this is  a RUN  capacitor, dual  rated with 
 the
 lower rating going to the condenser fan motor, and the higher for  the
 compressor.  The cooling fan does not require a capacitor. Look  carefully 
 for
 swelling, especially on the ends, and of course, leakage.  A  10 year old 
 cap is  your likely your culprit, with my guess being the condenser  fan 
 motor will not
 run and is overheating, causing the smell.  The  condenser fan should spin
 freely and being outdoors, can  start to seize up over time.  Oil might be 
 all you  need.
 Both Johnstones and Graingers have good prices on these and will take cash
 sales from individuals.
 I would not screw with the controls as there are a lot of safety devices 
 and
 interlocks.  You don't want to set fire to your window, and all that is
 attached!
 Regards,
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles
 98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
--
Thanks, Jim.  After further disassembly and cleaning off some of the crud, I 
found that the fan motor which runs both the evaporator and condenser fan 
has a label on the motor showing that it does need a capacitor in it's 
circuit.  The motor turns freely but it smells so much like burnt wiring, I 
doubt it will run very long if at all.  Think I'll junk this A/C and get a 
new one since the dual 7.5-35 mfd capacitors are scarce and pretty expensive 
on the internet.

Would like to use the compressor (with a 35 mfd cap?) as a vacuum pump if 
it's still good.  I would guess that the capacitor would be wired between 
two of the three terminals on the compressor, or would I be wrong?
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks Jim,
I wrote:
 The fan motor has three leads so I suspected it is a typical
 three speed motor setup

You wrote:
 Probably two speeds with only three leads.  Such motors don't
 need capacitors for starting or running as they don't start
 under load.  My understanding is that they're usually just
 shaded-pole motors, but those aren't as efficient.  It's
 possible that the efficiency drive has even gotten to the
 blower motor too.

After cleaning off the crud I found three more leads (6 total) coming from 
the fan and a diagram which showed a capacitor between two of them.

 The compressor also has three leads and a (common?) lead comes in
 through a separate thermal switch .
 The part I find confusing is a big capacitor which has three leads and
 a rating of both 7.5 mfd and 35 mfd.

 Sounds like the compressor is cap-start and cap-run.  You should be
 able to trace the circuitry enough to figure out where this (important)
 capacitor goes.  The rest of the electronics is just crap and can
 be replaced by a switch or two, as you surmise.

 ... they may require some sort of hookups with the capacitor.

 They do.  But just trace the wiring, you'll get close enough.
 The command and control stuff is small and fiddly, but the big
 power paths are usually still easy to map out.

Tried tracing the wiring through the stacked pc boards where all the wires 
terminate.  These pc boards have a transformer, 5 capacitors, four relays, 
four transistors, four dimms, 24 diodes, and 51 resistors!  While the wires 
to the compressor and fan terminate at the relays, haven't been able to 
figure out which connects to which since the relays are sealed.

Since the fan motor has such a strong smell of burnt wiring and since the 
scarce replacement capacitor is so expensive, I've decided to junk it and 
get a new one.
I would like to rig up the compressor as a vacuum pump if it's still good 
and run it with a 35 mfd capacitor.  I would guess that the capacitor would 
be wired between two of the three leads on the compressor?

 One thing I've been curious about is the kind of compressors these
 newer A/Cs have.  They are long, narrow compressors; much smaller than 
 the old type.  I would guess they would be rotary screw compressors on 
 the
 order of the large ones in big commercial installations.  The Sharp makes 
 a
 very steady tone comparable to the large commercial compressors steady
 roar.

 Scroll/roll type?
 -- Jim
-
Looked that up on the 'net.  You're right.  Seems like only the big ones are 
called screw compressors.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Light truck tires

2007-09-18 Thread R A Bennell
We have a set of Hercules tires on our 4Runner. They have about 54K miles on 
them now and are starting to wear a
bit unevenly so are being replaced but I can't complain. I believe they are 
more common in the US than in Canada so
you could likely find them. Don't recall the exact version we have but they are 
31 X 10.5 - 15 so pretty big tires
for a truck that size. My younger son is working part time in a tire shop and 
we have ordered a set of ProComp
tires to replace the Hercules. Don't know what they look like but the store 
manager suggested they were the best
deal at the moment on that size.

We have BF Goodrich on a 98 F150 Shortbox 4X4. They have over 24K miles so far 
and seem to be doing fine.

We have Cooper tires on my 02 F150 Supercrew. They have about 12K miles in the 
past year and appear to be doing
fine.

Don't know if any of this helps but here it is anyway.

Randy


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Light truck tires


Sometime before winter I will need to get new tires for my wife's 97
Explorer 4WD.   She had BF Goodrich long trail (or some other similar
name). They have worn like iron.  We have put at least 30,000 miles
since we bought the car.  When I bought it, I thought we would need
tires soon.  But, we still have not gotten down to the wear bars -
although very close.  So, to those of you with trucks and suv's, what
are good tires for this vehicle.  I might just buy the same tires we
already have. I have had no complaints.



Donald H. Snook



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Re: [MBZ] OT Light truck tires

2007-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin


R A Bennell wrote:
 We have a set of Hercules tires on our 4Runner. They have about 54K miles on 
 them now and are starting to wear a
 bit unevenly so are being replaced but I can't complain. I believe they are 
 more common in the US than in Canada so
 you could likely find them. Don't recall the exact version we have but they 
 are 31 X 10.5 - 15 so pretty big tires
 for a truck that size. My younger son is working part time in a tire shop and 
 we have ordered a set of ProComp
 tires to replace the Hercules. Don't know what they look like but the store 
 manager suggested they were the best
 deal at the moment on that size.
 
 We have BF Goodrich on a 98 F150 Shortbox 4X4. They have over 24K miles so 
 far and seem to be doing fine.
 
 We have Cooper tires on my 02 F150 Supercrew. They have about 12K miles in 
 the past year and appear to be doing
 fine.
 
 Don't know if any of this helps but here it is anyway.
 
 Randy
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Donald Snook
 Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:29 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] OT Light truck tires
 
 
 Sometime before winter I will need to get new tires for my wife's 97
 Explorer 4WD.   She had BF Goodrich long trail (or some other similar
 name). They have worn like iron.  We have put at least 30,000 miles
 since we bought the car.  When I bought it, I thought we would need
 tires soon.  But, we still have not gotten down to the wear bars -
 although very close.  So, to those of you with trucks and suv's, what
 are good tires for this vehicle.  I might just buy the same tires we
 already have. I have had no complaints.
 
 
 
 Donald H. Snook
 
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Zoltan Finks
Great instructions.

Yeah, I don't really have the service manual, so can't consult that.

As for just getting the thing closed for now:

I got in the trunk and attempted to turn the thing the owner's manual
describes as a hex shaped thing. So I put a socket on the hex nut and
turned. It got harder to turn as it went. I did see something inside
the motor turning though. The manual says clockwise closes the roof.

So just to try to see how things work, I turned counterclockwise, and
the nut began to unthread from its center shaft. Wonder if the factory
tool was made to turn this center shaft (which has a couple of flats
and the rest is round) instead of the nut? (factory tool is missing).

I turned the center shaft with some pliers and it rotated a bit, then
started to sort of strip out. When I let go of it, it rotates back
counterclockwise a bit.

I have physically pulled and pushed the sunroof shut, but it won't
raise up and seal up to the roof in the rear.

I thought the thing was designed so that it could be reliably opened
and closed manually from the trunk. Maybe that's just in the case of a
motor failure, not a binding-up situation?

Brian

On 9/18/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The cable is the best place to start. Call Rusty and get some of the paste.
 Then get a small bottle brush that'll fit down the tube, its about 1/4 
 diameter or so. Also get about 8' of wire. Its got to be fairly strong but 
 not super strong. 14ga house wire might work, 16ga would be better if you can 
 get it.
 Then pull the headliner on the sunroof off, its easier if you start with it 
 open. Just pull down on it, maybe use a plastic paint scraper to wedge it 
 open.
 Disconnect the cable from the sunroof and run it out so it comes up out of 
 the tube. Feed it out through the sunroof. WEAR GLOVES! Spend some time with 
 some brake cleaner cleaning it up good.
 In the trunk disconnect the motor from the tube. I honestly don't remember 
 how that works, its been 3 years since I did it, you'll figure it out it's 
 not magic.
 Attach the wire to the brush.
 Shoot brake cleaner down the tube from the sunroof end. Then feed the brush 
 down it. Work the brush back and forth, add brake cleaner, brush some more.
 Did I mention a pan in the trunk to catch the brake cleaner?
 Once the tube is clean (I wrapped my brush in paper towel for one last swipe) 
 and the cable is clean stand in the car with your sunroof paste, get a good 
 glob on your hand and glob it on the cable as you feed it back into the tube.

 As a last step you can use an acid brush to paint the channels the sunroof 
 rides in.

 Now as a note when I did this on my 240D I took the sunroof out and messed 
 with it. BIG MISTAKE. Cost me several hundred dollars for my Indy to fix what 
 I bodgered...

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 00:31:55 -0700
 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Sunroof quit
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 I guess I'm now a member of the sunroof trouble club.

 I noticed after buying the 87 190D that the sunroof didn't close fully
 one time. So I re-opened it and closed it and it thunked shut loudly.

 Since then, it sort of thunked loudly when shutting but closed
  reliably.

 Tonight, it closed almost fully, but that's it. I re-opened it and
 tried to close it - no dice.

 And then it started to open and close very slowly.

 And now it won't move.

 Question: If I try to crank it shut manually in the trunk will I bolix
  it up?

 And: What is best course to fix this?

 I know I've heard of this official Geitpaste or however it's spelled
 and pronounced. But I haven't the foggiest on how to apply it, or it
 it's even the appropriate measure.

 Thanks
 Brian


 -
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 Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Peter Frederick
Probably the cable is toast or the translation bridge is sideways.

Sorry not to have managed to get into this discussion sooner, but what 
you should have done, if the roof was open partway, was to have removed 
the headliner.  You can then get it to move manually and remove the 
cable.

The usual failure is broken lift angles, followed by the translation 
bridge getting stuck at a cross angle.  Until to get the bridge 
straight across, the roof panel won't move.

Peter

On Sep 18, 2007, at 7:05 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

 Great instructions.

 Yeah, I don't really have the service manual, so can't consult that.

 As for just getting the thing closed for now:

 I got in the trunk and attempted to turn the thing the owner's manual
 describes as a hex shaped thing. So I put a socket on the hex nut and
 turned. It got harder to turn as it went. I did see something inside
 the motor turning though. The manual says clockwise closes the roof.

 So just to try to see how things work, I turned counterclockwise, and
 the nut began to unthread from its center shaft. Wonder if the factory
 tool was made to turn this center shaft (which has a couple of flats
 and the rest is round) instead of the nut? (factory tool is missing).

 I turned the center shaft with some pliers and it rotated a bit, then
 started to sort of strip out. When I let go of it, it rotates back
 counterclockwise a bit.

 I have physically pulled and pushed the sunroof shut, but it won't
 raise up and seal up to the roof in the rear.

 I thought the thing was designed so that it could be reliably opened
 and closed manually from the trunk. Maybe that's just in the case of a
 motor failure, not a binding-up situation?

 Brian

 On 9/18/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The cable is the best place to start. Call Rusty and get some of the 
 paste.
 Then get a small bottle brush that'll fit down the tube, its about 
 1/4 diameter or so. Also get about 8' of wire. Its got to be fairly 
 strong but not super strong. 14ga house wire might work, 16ga would 
 be better if you can get it.
 Then pull the headliner on the sunroof off, its easier if you start 
 with it open. Just pull down on it, maybe use a plastic paint scraper 
 to wedge it open.
 Disconnect the cable from the sunroof and run it out so it comes up 
 out of the tube. Feed it out through the sunroof. WEAR GLOVES! Spend 
 some time with some brake cleaner cleaning it up good.
 In the trunk disconnect the motor from the tube. I honestly don't 
 remember how that works, its been 3 years since I did it, you'll 
 figure it out it's not magic.
 Attach the wire to the brush.
 Shoot brake cleaner down the tube from the sunroof end. Then feed the 
 brush down it. Work the brush back and forth, add brake cleaner, 
 brush some more.
 Did I mention a pan in the trunk to catch the brake cleaner?
 Once the tube is clean (I wrapped my brush in paper towel for one 
 last swipe) and the cable is clean stand in the car with your sunroof 
 paste, get a good glob on your hand and glob it on the cable as you 
 feed it back into the tube.

 As a last step you can use an acid brush to paint the channels the 
 sunroof rides in.

 Now as a note when I did this on my 240D I took the sunroof out and 
 messed with it. BIG MISTAKE. Cost me several hundred dollars for my 
 Indy to fix what I bodgered...

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 00:31:55 -0700
 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Sunroof quit
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 I guess I'm now a member of the sunroof trouble club.

 I noticed after buying the 87 190D that the sunroof didn't close fully
 one time. So I re-opened it and closed it and it thunked shut loudly.

 Since then, it sort of thunked loudly when shutting but closed
  reliably.

 Tonight, it closed almost fully, but that's it. I re-opened it and
 tried to close it - no dice.

 And then it started to open and close very slowly.

 And now it won't move.

 Question: If I try to crank it shut manually in the trunk will I bolix
  it up?

 And: What is best course to fix this?

 I know I've heard of this official Geitpaste or however it's spelled
 and pronounced. But I haven't the foggiest on how to apply it, or it
 it's even the appropriate measure.

 Thanks
 Brian


 -
 Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
 Check out fitting  gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.
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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread busbarn
I'll look under the console.  Thanks

Well in my 83 300TD it was located on the driver's side of the 
transmission stick shift under the wood console.

On Sep 16, 2007, at 6:48 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hello, I'm new to the list, but not new to Benz ownership.  I've got
  an 85 300D turbo.  I lost blinkers both turn and emergency and would
  like to replace the blinker relay, but can't find it.  Anyone happen
  to know where to look for the relay?

  Thanks,
  --
  Rick Taylor
  The Old Shop Teacher
  Smack Dab in the middle of the US
  Topeka, KS

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John
1983 300TDt  383k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  205k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 194k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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-- 
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS

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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread busbarn
I have some contact cleaner, I'll give that a try.  Thanks for everyone's help.

   Hello, I'm new to the list, but not new to Benz ownership.  I've got
  an 85 300D turbo.  I lost blinkers both turn and emergency and would
  like to replace the blinker relay, but can't find it.  Anyone happen
  to know where to look for the relay?

Cycle the emergency flasher switch about a billion times.
If it clears up, schedule some time to take it apart and
clean the contacts.

It's almost never the blinker relay, almost always that switch.
And all it needs is a good cleaning, usually.

-- Jim


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-- 
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS

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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread busbarn
Thanks, I'll see if I can clean the switch.

1. Have you tried resetting (smacking the crap out of) the emergency blinker
switch?  My '77 240D occasionally loses blinker and it turns out to be the
fault of the emergency blinker switch.

2. Kleb has a whole back yard full of what you need, if that fails.

D.


On 9/16/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hello, I'm new to the list, but not new to Benz ownership.  I've got
  an 85 300D turbo.  I lost blinkers both turn and emergency and would
  like to replace the blinker relay, but can't find it.  Anyone happen
  to know where to look for the relay?

  Thanks,
  --
  Rick Taylor
  The Old Shop Teacher
  Smack Dab in the middle of the US
  Topeka, KS

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--
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS

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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread busbarn
Thanks.  I hope your long years in Topeka are paying off now.

Rick Taylor signed his email thusly:



The Old Shop Teacher

Smack Dab in the middle of the US

Topeka, KS





Topeka, KS?   WOW!  It is good to have another Kansan on here.  I live
in Wichita.  I spent THREE LONG years in Topeka for law school. Glad to
have you, Rick.  You may wonder why I am on here, I just traded in my
Mercedes and haven't gotten the next one. 



Donald H. Snook

2001 Ford Expedition

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-- 
Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS

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Re: [MBZ] Blinker relay

2007-09-18 Thread busbarn
There seem to be a number of vintage Benz's around this area, many of 
them with badges!!

I didnt know you lived there.  I was just up there Thursday.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message -
From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 1:10 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Blinker relay


  Rick Taylor signed his email thusly:



  The Old Shop Teacher

  Smack Dab in the middle of the US

  Topeka, KS





  Topeka, KS?   WOW!  It is good to have another Kansan on here.  I live
  in Wichita.  I spent THREE LONG years in Topeka for law school. Glad to
  have you, Rick.  You may wonder why I am on here, I just traded in my
  Mercedes and haven't gotten the next one. 



  Donald H. Snook

  2001 Ford Expedition

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Rick Taylor
The Old Shop Teacher
Smack Dab in the middle of the US
Topeka, KS

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Re: [MBZ] Tools for adjusting front wheel bearings

2007-09-18 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 06:38:55 -0400 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 
 Scott Ritchey wrote:
  
  In my experience (comparing a dial gage with feel) the nut setting
  is right when you can just feel the slightest movement when you
  push/pull on the brake disk.
 
 If it's a one-off job, instead of one you do daily and develop a feel
 for, I'd use proper measuring tools every time. 

Yes, particularly with MB front wheel bearings where the manual is very
specific.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Changing coolant?

2007-09-18 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 11:15:54 -0400 Dwight E. Giles, Jr
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim,
 What does this mean for my 240D? I am thinking of changing t'stat at the
 some time as changing coolant. Is it a sequence issue?

No, it's a symantic issue.

You must not RUN it with no thermostat.

However, you may replace the thermostat whenever you desire.


Craig

 Thanks.
 Dwight
 
 Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
 1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
 1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
 Wickford, RI
 
 
 
 You wrote 
 
 
 You should NEVER remove the thermostat on cars (yours) with the double 
 
 acting thermostat that closes the bypass when the thermostat opens.  If
 you have 
 trouble with venting, the small metal tube off the top of the pump
 housing   could be clogged.
  
 
 
 ** See what's new at
 http://www.aol.com
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--- 
Craig McCluskey

Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 238 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN   Friends don't send friends
  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email.
 / \  AND POSTINGS 
   http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 So just to try to see how things work, I turned counterclockwise, and
 the nut began to unthread from its center shaft. Wonder if the factory
 tool was made to turn this center shaft (which has a couple of flats
 and the rest is round) instead of the nut? (factory tool is missing).

It is.  The nut sets the clutch tension IIRC, the flatted shaft
is what drives the cable.  Until something jams.

 I thought the thing was designed so that it could be reliably opened
 and closed manually from the trunk. Maybe that's just in the case of a
 motor failure, not a binding-up situation?

Exactly.  Motor, switch, or fuse failure.  A jammed mechanism
is, well, _jammed_.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 circuit.  The motor turns freely but it smells so much like burnt 
 wiring, I
 doubt it will run very long if at all.

Burnt smelling is bad news, usually.

 Think I'll junk this A/C and get a
 new one since the dual 7.5-35 mfd capacitors are scarce and pretty 
 expensive
 on the internet.

I don't believe there is anything electrically interesting about
your dual cap, I think it was just two caps in one package, a
money-saving measure.  You could replace them with separate
units, if you could find the room for both.

 Would like to use the compressor (with a 35 mfd cap?) as a vacuum pump 
 if
 it's still good.  I would guess that the capacitor would be wired 
 between
 two of the three terminals on the compressor, or would I be wrong?

Most refrigeration compressors make poor vacuum pumps
because they don't get lubricated.  Yorks are an exception
because they have a traditional crankcase full of oil.

Home AC units are also cooled by the refrigerant flow.
With no flow, she's a-gonna get hot!  I don't recommend
what you're doing, except as an experiment.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Zoltan Finks
I have read most of the info in those two links you posted. Answered
some questions.

We have noticed before this failure that there were a few streaks
being left on the headliner from opening and closing the roof. And the
stuff feels gummy. Sounds like all needs a cleaning.

I wonder if someone has messed with this before and used wrong lube.

Also, on your site, you mentioned some sort of plastic cap onto which
the factory tool goes? That was not present.

Of course you mentioned the tool being the tire iron. With the 190,
apparently, they supplied a separate tool into which the supplied
screwdriver gets inserted in order to give turning power. But in my
defense, the manual described the turning dealie as hex. That's why
I turned the hex nut.

I did put the key in ignition and operated the switch in hopes it
would go ahead and seal up to roof. But I just hear the motor running.
I think maybe my loosening of that clutch adjusting nut has removed
tension on the cable?

Brian

On 9/18/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  So just to try to see how things work, I turned counterclockwise, and
  the nut began to unthread from its center shaft. Wonder if the factory
  tool was made to turn this center shaft (which has a couple of flats
  and the rest is round) instead of the nut? (factory tool is missing).

 It is.  The nut sets the clutch tension IIRC, the flatted shaft
 is what drives the cable.  Until something jams.

  I thought the thing was designed so that it could be reliably opened
  and closed manually from the trunk. Maybe that's just in the case of a
  motor failure, not a binding-up situation?

 Exactly.  Motor, switch, or fuse failure.  A jammed mechanism
 is, well, _jammed_.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:44:39 -0700, Jim wrote:

 Most refrigeration compressors make poor vacuum pumps
 because they don't get lubricated.  Yorks are an exception
 because they have a traditional crankcase full of oil.

Are you implying that a York will make a passable vacuum pump?

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] My latest score

2007-09-18 Thread Loren Faeth
Kaleb,

Now that you have that score, you want to sell me your POS 300SDL 
CHEP?  How about a package deal for the SDL and the 300D 2.5?

BTW, have you got any pictures of the 300D 2.5 in discussion?



Loren


At 09:02 PM 9/13/2007, you wrote:

  So I today I buy a 92 300SD from the Mercedes dealer in Wichita.  I got
  them down 2k off there already VERY cheap price.  137k miles.  Damn
  thing is near perfect.  They dont mess with those old cars like that. I
  am surprised they didnt just run it thru the auction right off the bat.
  Geez, I have been missing the 140.  It makes the 126 look like a POS
  FROD or something.  When I got it home and was digging thru it, what do
  I find in the rear seat pocket but a BRAND NEW Ipod Nano.  I mean BRAND
  NEW.  Never been opened.  Holy crap!!  I dont care anything about Ipods
  but the wife does.

Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 Are you implying that a York will make a passable vacuum pump?

Yes.  Not good enough for moisture removal in an AC system,
but magnificent at sucking the oil out of an engine!  (Indirectly,
through a tank.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Sunroof quit

2007-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
 Also, on your site, you mentioned some sort of plastic cap onto which
 the factory tool goes? That was not present.

The plastic hex cap, often missing, locks the hex nut
in position on the flatted shaft.  The tire iron
turns the entire mess, but it only works so long
as it hasn't gotten stiff.  Once it binds, the plastic
cap breaks, falls into the trunk, and is discarded.

 I think maybe my loosening of that clutch adjusting nut has removed
 tension on the cable?

Yes, you could try tightening it back a bit.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Quick Mercedes trivia questions

2007-09-18 Thread tom savage
Gary Hurst wrote:
 you are one deeply disturbed young lady

Yeah.  Here's what the ladies and I did this morning:
http://www.ksdk.com/video/default.aspx?aid=58983sid=129827bw=hicat=78

Fast forward to 1:37

Tom

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Confusing window A/C

2007-09-18 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 circuit.  The motor turns freely but it smells so much like burnt
 wiring, I
 doubt it will run very long if at all.

 Burnt smelling is bad news, usually.

 Think I'll junk this A/C and get a
 new one since the dual 7.5-35 mfd capacitors are scarce and pretty
 expensive
 on the internet.

 I don't believe there is anything electrically interesting about
 your dual cap, I think it was just two caps in one package, a
 money-saving measure.  You could replace them with separate
 units, if you could find the room for both.

 Would like to use the compressor (with a 35 mfd cap?) as a vacuum pump
 if
 it's still good.  I would guess that the capacitor would be wired
 between
 two of the three terminals on the compressor, or would I be wrong?

 Most refrigeration compressors make poor vacuum pumps
 because they don't get lubricated.  Yorks are an exception
 because they have a traditional crankcase full of oil.

 Home AC units are also cooled by the refrigerant flow.
 With no flow, she's a-gonna get hot!  I don't recommend
 what you're doing, except as an experiment.

 -- Jim
-
I'm sure you're right about the AC units which pump a lot more freon and 
generate a lot more heat.  I've been using a compressor out of a half-size 
office refrigerator to evacuate car AC systems for several years.  I bent 
the pressure tubing straight up, cut a plastic bottle in half, put a lab 
cork with an appropriate size hole in it, slid the cork down over the 
pressure tubing, and slid it down just below the end of the pressure tubing. 
When the compressor runs, it pumps droplets of oil out the pressure side 
which collect in the cut-off bottle.  When I finish vacuuming a car, I slide 
the cork-bottle up and the oil runs back down in the compressor.  You're 
right, the compressor does get pretty hot but it still works okay; probably 
because it doesn't generate as much heat as an AC compressor.
Think I'll just save the compressor and if the one I'm using goes bad I'll 
try using it.  Guess it could be immersed in a water bath to get rid of the 
heat.
Thanks,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Quick Mercedes trivia questions

2007-09-18 Thread Rich Thomas
You were dressing in women's clothing?  (and hanging out in bars?)

--R

tom savage wrote:
 Gary Hurst wrote:
   
 you are one deeply disturbed young lady
 

 Yeah.  Here's what the ladies and I did this morning:
 http://www.ksdk.com/video/default.aspx?aid=58983sid=129827bw=hicat=78

 Fast forward to 1:37

 Tom


   
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