Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Another option is concrete screws.  You need to pre-drill for these, but
they hold well.

Craig diese...@pisquared.net writes:

 On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 15:55:40 -0600 Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

  Don't let it bounce or try not to. Also hit it hard with a nice big
  framing hammer or small two pound hand sledge, if you have the hammer 
  actuated driver and use the most powerful load you can get.
 
 I'll try the two pound sledge.

 I used the two pound sledge and even drove the end of the gun into the
 2x4, but never got the nails to go down to the wood. I'm sure it did not
 bounce.


 Thanks to all for sharing information. I'll try it with a 2 pound
 sledge. If that doesn't work, I have a box of #8 flat washers that I
 can use to take up the slack between the nail head and the 2x4.

 I tried it with eight #8 flat washers on the end of the nail. That got
 almost to the wood. I did only two of those. 

 What helped the most was pounding on the end of the nail with the 2 pound
 hammer. With that, some of the nails went in just fine, but some would
 not go in and bent over. I drove one stack of eight #8 washers completely
 into the wood. I also got carried away and put a bunch of nails in. The
 half-height wall I thought was going to be wobbly isn't.


 Craig

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1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread Hans Neureiter
I use a bead of Liquid Nails on the bottom of the soleplate and than nail it
down with a power driver.
It is not impoirtant that the nails are flush. They hold by friction.

On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 9:32 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Another option is concrete screws.  You need to pre-drill for these, but
 they hold well.

 --
 Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
 '82 300SD


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[MBZ] OT BaT For OK Don

2011-10-16 Thread Rick Knoble
Should bring back a memory or two. 
Yours was a B though, I think. 

http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/14/1957-mga-with-buick-v-8-and-5-speed/

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Damaged E420

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Craig diese...@pisquared.net writes:

 I see I violated the avoid the 'preferred' repair shops rule. It was
 1645 on a Friday afternoon and I had to tell them someplace to take
 the car. Not knowing anything about the Santa Fe auto repair scene,
 ...

Not necessarily a bad thing.  The body shop I always use, happens to be
a preferred State Farm shop but they have been in business for
decades, same owner, and do excellent work.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread Craig
On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 00:56:28 -0500 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Craig wrote:
 
  What helped the most was pounding on the end of the nail with
  the 2 pound hammer. With that, some of the nails went in just
  fine, but some would not go in and bent over. I drove one
  stack of eight #8 washers completely into the wood. I also got
  carried away and put a bunch of nails in. The half-height wall
  I thought was going to be wobbly isn't.
 
 Good!
 
 I have never like the nails much.  They are fast, though,
 compared to what I prefer.  Which is a threaded stud anchor.
 Like this one
 http://www.confast.com/products/thunderstud-anchor.aspx

When I put in our garage closet, I used anchors which went down into a
hole in the concrete.


 Using a real hammer drill (like Bosch BullDog) making a 1/4 inch
 (7mm) hole is easy, even in old hard concrete.

I used a hammer drill to try to drill the holes for the garage closet
anchors. Even with a 1/4 starter hole, the hammer drill made little
progress after an hour of trying. I had to go to the local rental yard to
rent a rotary hammer (the difference in the actual terminology is
significant). That was a much larger piece of equipment and did a
1/2 (or was it 5/8?) hole in about 45 seconds. I had to be careful to
not go too deep.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT BaT For OK Don

2011-10-16 Thread G Mann
I had one with a 289 Ford engine, C6 transmission.  It was very capable...
however the glove box was way to small to hold all the speeding tickets and
citations I collected with it.
It was necessary to add a 3 ft section of railroad track under the rear
bumper to keep the rear wheel traction in contact You could do a full
donut at 60 mph on dry pavement just by blip of the throttle.

On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 7:40 AM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Should bring back a memory or two.
 Yours was a B though, I think.

 http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/14/1957-mga-with-buick-v-8-and-5-speed/

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] Heresy

2011-10-16 Thread Rich Thomas
This is my birthday present:  
http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Experience/Events/PDS/ProgramsandCourses/DriversProgram.aspx


First available date was Dec21, pray there be no snow.  I hope I can fit 
in a 3.


I am also hoping there isn't a subtle message being sent.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Heresy

2011-10-16 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Maybe I'll see you there... I need to take this course also.  It's quite
good, some of the guys I work with have already taken it.  You doing 1 or 2
days?

Jaime


On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 11:48 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 This is my birthday present:  http://www.bmwusa.com/**
 Standard/Content/Experience/**Events/PDS/ProgramsandCourses/**
 DriversProgram.aspxhttp://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Experience/Events/PDS/ProgramsandCourses/DriversProgram.aspx

 First available date was Dec21, pray there be no snow.  I hope I can fit in
 a 3.

 I am also hoping there isn't a subtle message being sent.

 --R

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread Luther's Benz
I've used power charges many times and that's fairly typical anchoring steel to 
new concrete. nbsp;Load a second charge and tap the nail a second time. It 
won't hurt to fire with no nail. nbsp;

Luther

On Oct 14, 2011 9:56 PM, Craig lt;diese...@pisquared.netgt; wrote: 

To continue our kitchen remodel, I was able to borrow a Remington Power

Driver from a neighbor and then went to our local lumber yard to get

supplies. I got #4 power charges and 2.5 nails, which are supposed to be

use to fasten 2x4s to hard concrete. I was told that the nails would be

sunk into the boards.



My problem, however, is that the nails are not sunk into the boards. They

are not even flush with the top surface of the boards. The one that went

into the concrete the most compressed the orange plastic piece that

centers the end of the nail in the bore of the gun to about half its

original length. The one that went into the concrete the least did not

compress the orange plastic piece at all.



Is this the way it's supposed to work. (Our concrete, at 52 years old,

is apparently extra hard.)





Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Heresy

2011-10-16 Thread Rich Thomas
Just the one day, should be fun.  Probably drive up early the day before 
to see the museum.


--R

On 10/16/11 1:37 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

Maybe I'll see you there... I need to take this course also.  It's quite
good, some of the guys I work with have already taken it.  You doing 1 or 2
days?

Jaime


On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 11:48 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:


This is my birthday present:  http://www.bmwusa.com/**
Standard/Content/Experience/**Events/PDS/ProgramsandCourses/**
DriversProgram.aspxhttp://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Experience/Events/PDS/ProgramsandCourses/DriversProgram.aspx

First available date was Dec21, pray there be no snow.  I hope I can fit in
a 3.

I am also hoping there isn't a subtle message being sent.

--R

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[MBZ] W116 stiff door handles

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
The exterior door handles on my W116 are difficult to operate.  Is this
typical and would cleaning/lubing the mechanisms be the fix?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] replacing shut-off valve, OM617

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Install the shutoff solenoid without the bolts and suck on the vacuum
 connection. If it pulls itself tight to the IP when suction is
 applied, you've got it hooked in place.

I used Mitch's technique to check that the stop arm was properly hooked
and got the valve installed today.  The motor now shuts down instantly
when the key is turned one more little annoyance resolved!

Getting the new valve to slip in between the injection pump and the oil
filter housing was troublesome (though for some reason the old valve
came out without much difficulty).  I contemplated removing the oil
filter housing but then realized I could push in the arm on the valve
and then cap the vacuum nipple with the plastic protective cap that was
on the valve in the box.  This held the valve in the retracted position
and let me slip it in place.

Now, the green w/black stripe line that runs from the main accessory
vacuum supply through the firewall is the only circuit that is not
holding vacuum.  I have that branch disconnected and plugged.  I believe
this is the vacuum supply for the ACC can anyone confirm?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Headlight Lens Getting Foggy

2011-10-16 Thread Bob Rentfro
Oh yeah? How much for how much?

Bob R
On Oct 15, 2011 5:50 PM, buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

 I sell some Hella stuff that is supposed to be very good.


 Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

 -Original Message-
 From: Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com
 Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 13:38:28
 To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Headlight Lens Getting Foggy

 Washed the E320 today and noticed the headlight lenses are getting a little
 foggy and one looks as if clearcoat is flaking off.
 What can I do? What magic goo actually works?

 Bob R
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Re: [MBZ] replacing shut-off valve, OM617

2011-10-16 Thread Luther's Benz
That is brilliant!

Luther

On Oct 16, 2011 2:09 PM, Allan Streib lt;str...@cs.indiana.edugt; wrote: 
lt;snipgt;
I could push in the arm on the valve

and then cap the vacuum nipple with the plastic protective cap that was

on the valve in the box.  This held the valve in the retracted position

and let me slip it in place.

lt;\snipgt;




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Re: [MBZ] replacing shut-off valve, OM617

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu writes:

 Now, the green w/black stripe line that runs from the main accessory
 vacuum supply through the firewall is the only circuit that is not
 holding vacuum.  I have that branch disconnected and plugged.  I believe
 this is the vacuum supply for the ACC can anyone confirm?

I had a look up under the ACC panel (radio is removed) and saw that the
7-port vacuum connection to the pushbutton array was unplugged.  Not
sure why anyone would have left it that way, but I plugged it back in
and that solved the vacuum leak on the green line.  Need to test the
door locks but hoping that resolves my remaining vacuum issues.

Drove the car back and forth in the driveway to test the brakes now that
vacuum is working again.  Much improved, but pedal feels a bit soft
compared to my W123.  Need to get insurance on it before I give it a
road test.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] replacing shut-off valve, OM617

2011-10-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:


Drove the car back and forth in the driveway to test the brakes now that
vacuum is working again.  Much improved, but pedal feels a bit soft
compared to my W123.  Need to get insurance on it before I give it a
road test.


Since you don't mind spending money before the road test, may as well make brake 
fluid part of the 'new owner fluid change' list. That should firm up the pedal 
if nothing's wrong. I wish I'd bought a couple of gallons of Valvoline Synpower 
when it was $4 a quart. The new Valvoline doesn't have as high a boiling point.
I mean to change it every year or so, but so far I've never changed it soon 
enough to need the ATE Superblue I bought from Rusty to tell the difference 
between old and new.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread MG
Yup did some pounding of my own on some of the nails. As long as 
it's tight it's right. :-)


Manfred

Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 17:48:54 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers


What helped the most was pounding on the end of the nail with the 
2 pound
hammer. With that, some of the nails went in just fine, but some 
would
not go in and bent over. I drove one stack of eight #8 washers 
completely
into the wood. I also got carried away and put a bunch of nails 
in. The

half-height wall I thought was going to be wobbly isn't.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread MG
That's something I didn't even think of. Those blue concrete 
screws are great for holding down a half wall. There you need 
something to keep the wall fastened down tight to the floor. As 
you said in a full height wall the ceiling keeps the wall down 
and the nails in the concrete are there just to keep the wall 
from walking.


Manfred

Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:14:57 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers


When I was finishing out the interior of the shop building, I used
blue concrete nails which came in a packet with the proper size
carbide drill bit.  They went in tight and one or two broke, but they
seemed to tighten up quite well.  I used an old fashioned brace
and a screwdriver bit  to install them, and an electric impact wrench
on those that went in very tightly.
Of course, shearing force was all they had to withstand since the
tops of the partition frames were nailed to the roof trusses.  If 
your
half partition has significant pulling forces they might not be 
strong

enough but, based on my experience,  the wood would give 'way
before the screw pulled out or broke.
Gerry
'83 300D
'83 240D

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
It took a couple hours to replace the spheres (accumulators) on my 123 wagon
at the MBCA tech session yesterday.  The only required tool I forgot to
bring was the 10mm crows foot to remove the thin supply line (one of the
techs on duty lent me his).

For this job, everything is very accessible with the car on the lift.  Also
changed the oil and coolant, replaced a missing muffler hanger donut (source
of the squeaky rear end noise), removed the front fender linings to clean
out the composed leaves in the L and R fender well drains, and tightened the
main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet).  The dealership
provided continental breakfast (rolls, fruit, coffee, juice) and lunch, plus
a squad of techs to help out and answer questions.  All in all, not a bad
deal for $25.00.

Thanks to all for nursing me along.  The car now rides with just the right
amount of road feel, minus the jarring sensation.  BTW, the old spheres were
NOT saturated so didn't drench me with hydraulic fluid after all!  The tech
said they sometimes go bad without the internal seal being breached that
would allow them to fill with SLS fluid.

Andrew
1985 300TD



On Sun, Oct 9, 2011 at 6:32 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:50:54 -0400 andrew strasfogel
 astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

  All:
 
  I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres!  Seems to ride better now.
  I have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the
  suspension holds its height.  Could the struts be leaking internally?

 Have you been reading this thread? Do you pay any attention to what
 people take time and energy to write?


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] replacing shut-off valve, OM617

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Since you don't mind spending money before the road test, may as well
 make brake fluid part of the 'new owner fluid change' list. That
 should firm up the pedal if nothing's wrong.

I did change the fluid last weekend, actually.  Used ATE fluid from
Rusty.  It's possible there's still a small air bubble somewhere in the
system, I guess.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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[MBZ] W116, driver's power window

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Tested power windows and sunroof in the W116.  All work well except
driver's window.  I removed the door liner and verified +/- 12 volts at
the terminals when operating the switch.

The removal instructions for the window opener involve drilling holes in
the door, so before I do that I'm wondering if there's anything else I
can try to confirm that I need to do that.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Max
Congrats! Nice to do the work yourself, especially with access to a lift and 
the proper tools.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Mitch Haley

andrew strasfogel wrote:

 and tightened the
main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet). 


I think if you remove the bolt, you'll see a decaying o-ring seal on it.
Usually a bad one holds until you change the filter, but isn't soft enough to 
seal again when you tighten up the new filter.


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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
  and tightened the
 main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
 housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet). 

 I think if you remove the bolt, you'll see a decaying o-ring seal on it.
 Usually a bad one holds until you change the filter, but isn't soft
 enough to seal again when you tighten up the new filter.

Exactly what I found on my W116 300SD.  I changed fuel filters and the
O-ring on the hollow bolt broke in several pieces.  It was brittle and
hard like bakalite.  The O-rings on the oil filter stem pipe were in the
same condition.  I ordered a new O-rings from Rusty but if you know the
sizes are you may be able to find them locally.


Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Glad you know how to do it. Now I can pick your brain if I decide to do it to 
my brothers 89 wagon.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2011, at 5:07 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

It took a couple hours to replace the spheres (accumulators) on my 123 wagon
at the MBCA tech session yesterday.  The only required tool I forgot to
bring was the 10mm crows foot to remove the thin supply line (one of the
techs on duty lent me his).

For this job, everything is very accessible with the car on the lift.  Also
changed the oil and coolant, replaced a missing muffler hanger donut (source
of the squeaky rear end noise), removed the front fender linings to clean
out the composed leaves in the L and R fender well drains, and tightened the
main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet).  The dealership
provided continental breakfast (rolls, fruit, coffee, juice) and lunch, plus
a squad of techs to help out and answer questions.  All in all, not a bad
deal for $25.00.

Thanks to all for nursing me along.  The car now rides with just the right
amount of road feel, minus the jarring sensation.  BTW, the old spheres were
NOT saturated so didn't drench me with hydraulic fluid after all!  The tech
said they sometimes go bad without the internal seal being breached that
would allow them to fill with SLS fluid.

Andrew
1985 300TD



On Sun, Oct 9, 2011 at 6:32 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:50:54 -0400 andrew strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

All:

I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres!  Seems to ride better now.
I have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the
suspension holds its height.  Could the struts be leaking internally?

Have you been reading this thread? Do you pay any attention to what
people take time and energy to write?


Craig

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[MBZ] You're not going to believe what I did!

2011-10-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I rode in an 1886 Benz Patent Motorwagen replica today!! I was at the 
Farberallye event in Bar Harbor and the Seal Cove Auto Museum was demonstrating 
this vehicle. I will post some YouTube videos I took. 
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Re: [MBZ] W116 stiff door handles

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead
You will need to take them out, soak and clean, then lube with a moly 
grease.  That should make em like new.  May need to do the same with 
the latch mechanism too.


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[MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.

Does anyone know offhand it will come out with out messing with the 
airbag and steering wheel?  I get a little nervous messing with a 
shotgun shell with an unknown trigger system.


Anybody remember the place to buy the gears, or should i search my email?

Any tricks to working on the 126 odo?

Thanks!

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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Mitch Haley

Dieselhead wrote:

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.



I've removed 116 instruments with steering wheel in situ, but I can't say about 
126 with or without airbag.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Peter Frederick
Should come out with no trouble.  Extend the telescoping wheel all  
the way out, use the proper hook tools to pull it out.  Electronic  
speedo/odo on that one, there are several posibilities for problems.   
Do a web search before you rip into it.


The W124, oddly, still has a mechanical speedo.

Peter

On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:20 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Dieselhead wrote:

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.


I've removed 116 instruments with steering wheel in situ, but I  
can't say about 126 with or without airbag.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead
Speed works, odo does not.  Slipping gears, broken gears.  That is 
about the only choices I see.



Should come out with no trouble.  Extend the telescoping wheel all 
the way out, use the proper hook tools to pull it out.  Electronic 
speedo/odo on that one, there are several posibilities for 
problems.  
Do a web search before you rip into it.


The W124, oddly, still has a mechanical speedo.

Peter

On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:20 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Dieselhead wrote:

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.


I've removed 116 instruments with steering wheel in situ, but I 
can't say about 126 with or without airbag.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead
124 spheres are a different animal to change.  You have to take up 
the panel ahead of the third seat to get to the bolts that hold them 
in.  I never found a procedure for this, I enden up bending the 
corners of the panel and then bent them down again.  I don't 
recommend this, but it was a wagon I didn't really care that much 
about for esthetics.


The under parts are the same.  Bleed off pressure, loosen the 
pressure lines.  Then unbolt the spheres from inside and replace. 
Replacing the spheres is a 2 person job.  Someone has to hold the 
sphere while someone is inside putting the bolts in.  This is one 
area where the S123 is a better design than the S123.



Glad you know how to do it. Now I can pick your brain if I decide to 
do it to my brothers 89 wagon.


Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead
Congrats!  Nothing is nicer than an MB wagon that rides right!  (well 
maybe one with full air or hydraulic suspension, but I don't know, 
because I have never driven a 300SEL or a 6.9, or similar (112, 109 
or 116)




It took a couple hours to replace the spheres (accumulators) on my 123 wagon
at the MBCA tech session yesterday.  The only required tool I forgot to
bring was the 10mm crows foot to remove the thin supply line (one of the
techs on duty lent me his).

For this job, everything is very accessible with the car on the lift.  Also
changed the oil and coolant, replaced a missing muffler hanger donut (source
of the squeaky rear end noise), removed the front fender linings to clean
out the composed leaves in the L and R fender well drains, and tightened the
main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet).  The dealership
provided continental breakfast (rolls, fruit, coffee, juice) and lunch, plus
a squad of techs to help out and answer questions.  All in all, not a bad
deal for $25.00.

Thanks to all for nursing me along.  The car now rides with just the right
amount of road feel, minus the jarring sensation.  BTW, the old spheres were
NOT saturated so didn't drench me with hydraulic fluid after all!  The tech
said they sometimes go bad without the internal seal being breached that
would allow them to fill with SLS fluid.

Andrew
1985 300TD


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Re: [MBZ] You're not going to believe what I did!

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead

Very Lucky!

Years ago I had a friend with a 1906 Cadillac.  It was an open car, 
much like a buggy, still with the original burgundy leather seats. 
The one-lung engine was under the car and drove a chain drive.  It 
was not to evolved from the 1886 Motorwagon.  It was a neat car to 
ride around in.  Would not have been as much fun in 1906 to drive on 
the dust or mud.


The owner usually hauled around women dressed as period saloon girls!


I rode in an 1886 Benz Patent Motorwagen replica today!! I was at 
the Farberallye event in Bar Harbor and the Seal Cove Auto Museum 
was demonstrating this vehicle. I will post some YouTube videos I 
took.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Max
Is that one electronic?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Dieselhead wrote:
 Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.
 

I've removed 116 instruments with steering wheel in situ, but I can't say about 
126 with or without airbag.

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread Max
'89 should be a 124, different set-up but same principles. Accumulators are 
inside under a metal-backed carpet piece.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Glad you know how to do it. Now I can pick your brain if I decide to do it to 
my brothers 89 wagon.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2011, at 5:07 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

It took a couple hours to replace the spheres (accumulators) on my 123 wagon
at the MBCA tech session yesterday. The only required tool I forgot to
bring was the 10mm crows foot to remove the thin supply line (one of the
techs on duty lent me his).

For this job, everything is very accessible with the car on the lift. Also
changed the oil and coolant, replaced a missing muffler hanger donut (source
of the squeaky rear end noise), removed the front fender linings to clean
out the composed leaves in the L and R fender well drains, and tightened the
main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet). The dealership
provided continental breakfast (rolls, fruit, coffee, juice) and lunch, plus
a squad of techs to help out and answer questions. All in all, not a bad
deal for $25.00.

Thanks to all for nursing me along. The car now rides with just the right
amount of road feel, minus the jarring sensation. BTW, the old spheres were
NOT saturated so didn't drench me with hydraulic fluid after all! The tech
said they sometimes go bad without the internal seal being breached that
would allow them to fill with SLS fluid.

Andrew
1985 300TD



On Sun, Oct 9, 2011 at 6:32 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:50:54 -0400 andrew strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

All:

I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres! Seems to ride better now.
I have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the
suspension holds its height. Could the struts be leaking internally?

Have you been reading this thread? Do you pay any attention to what
people take time and energy to write?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Peter Frederick
That unit is electronically driven, and the drive train is NOT the  
same as a mechanical speedo/odometer.  There are two different gears  
that can fail, and I don't remember if there is one motor or two in  
the unit.


As I suggested, a web search is in order, I've seen instructions and  
part numbers in the past.


Peter

On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:31 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Speed works, odo does not.  Slipping gears, broken gears.  That is  
about the only choices I see.



Should come out with no trouble.  Extend the telescoping wheel all  
the way out, use the proper hook tools to pull it out.  Electronic  
speedo/odo on that one, there are several posibilities for  
problems.  Do a web search before you rip into it.


The W124, oddly, still has a mechanical speedo.

Peter

On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:20 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Dieselhead wrote:

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.


I've removed 116 instruments with steering wheel in situ, but I  
can't say about 126 with or without airbag.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Tim C
I pulled mine out the other day, didn't even think about the air bag. :/  It
just came out the same as my 123.

I have a spare gas cluster if you think any of those bits would work.

-Tim
On Oct 16, 2011 7:14 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.

 Does anyone know offhand it will come out with out messing with the airbag
 and steering wheel?  I get a little nervous messing with a shotgun shell
 with an unknown trigger system.

 Anybody remember the place to buy the gears, or should i search my email?

 Any tricks to working on the 126 odo?

 Thanks!

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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Benz Hogs
As has been said, extend the steering wheel all the way, then pull the 
cluster using the tools OR pieces of coat hanger with a very short and 
sharp (~1/4 140-160 degree) bend in the end.  Next visit 
http://www.odometergears.com/products/Mercedes-Benz/126+Chassis+79-91+Diesel/53 
and figure out which gear setup you need and click purchase.  (I promise 
I have no affiliation with OdoGears, just a 2+ purchase satisfied 
customer)  Buy the three gear set as a new gear will quickly strip the 
old gear(s) and make you repeat the process.  Don't ask how I know this


 Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)

On 10/16/2011 6:14 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Seems that the odo has quit on the 87 126.

Does anyone know offhand it will come out with out messing with the
airbag and steering wheel? I get a little nervous messing with a shotgun
shell with an unknown trigger system.

Anybody remember the place to buy the gears, or should i search my email?

Any tricks to working on the 126 odo?

Thanks!

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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread MG
Might want to disconnect the battery before you start on the job. 
That way the bag shouldn't go off at least till you reconnect the 
battery at worst.


I have an 81 124 that has an electronic speedometer. Just a 
rectangular plug on the back with a few wires in it no mechanical 
cable anywhere. Maybe they brought them back later?


Manfred

Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 18:26:25 -0500
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

Should come out with no trouble.  Extend the telescoping wheel all
the way out, use the proper hook tools to pull it out.  Electronic
speedo/odo on that one, there are several posibilities for 
problems.

Do a web search before you rip into it.

The W124, oddly, still has a mechanical speedo.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread MG
Very likely the two plastic gears that connect the speedo to the 
odo. They get soft and crumble. Had to replace them on the 81 
124. I believe the same kit will work for yours. Search Ebay for 
Mercedes speedo gears. Not too expensive and an easy fix. Took 
longer to take the speedo out of the instrument panel then to 
replace the gears once it was out.


Manfred

Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 18:31:06 -0500
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

Speed works, odo does not.  Slipping gears, broken gears.  That is
about the only choices I see.



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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead

I doubt the gassers have the same gears.  Thanks anyway.



I pulled mine out the other day, didn't even think about the air bag. :/  It
just came out the same as my 123.

I have a spare gas cluster if you think any of those bits would work.

-Tim


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Re: [MBZ] You're not going to believe what I did!

2011-10-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Here are the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--Ey4woPjmYfeature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0pUiKUruFsfeature=youtube_gdata_player


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:37 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

I rode in an 1886 Benz Patent Motorwagen replica today!! I was at the 
Farberallye event in Bar Harbor and the Seal Cove Auto Museum was demonstrating 
this vehicle. I will post some YouTube videos I took. 
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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead
Thanks, that is what I was after.  Kinda pricey for little plastic 
bits.  Sounds like I have to get it out before I can order the right 
parts.  Maybe I will get lucky and just have one slipping on the 
shaft.



As has been said, extend the steering wheel all the way, then pull 
the cluster using the tools OR pieces of coat hanger with a very 
short and sharp (~1/4 140-160 degree) bend in the end.  Next visit 
http://www.odometergears.com/products/Mercedes-Benz/126+Chassis+79-91+Diesel/53 
and figure out which gear setup you need and click purchase.  (I 
promise I have no affiliation with OdoGears, just a 2+ purchase 
satisfied customer)  Buy the three gear set as a new gear will 
quickly strip the old gear(s) and make you repeat the process. 
Don't ask how I know this


 Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)


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Re: [MBZ] You're not going to believe what I did!

2011-10-16 Thread Dieselhead

Way cool!

I was mistaken, Dick Morris' Cadillac was a 1903, not a 1906.  Here 
is a you tube of a 1903.  I remember Dick cranking it just like in 
the movie.  Dick's car was red and all original.  nothing restored.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9fhDQ-iSXI

By 1906, they had the engine  out front, under a hood.




Here are the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--Ey4woPjmYfeature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0pUiKUruFsfeature=youtube_gdata_player



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Re: [MBZ] You're not going to believe what I did!

2011-10-16 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Damn. That Caddy sounds identical to the Benz! It must be a single cylinder as 
well.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2011, at 9:35 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Way cool!

I was mistaken, Dick Morris' Cadillac was a 1903, not a 1906.  Here is a you 
tube of a 1903.  I remember Dick cranking it just like in the movie.  Dick's 
car was red and all original.  nothing restored.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9fhDQ-iSXI

By 1906, they had the engine  out front, under a hood.



Here are the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--Ey4woPjmYfeature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0pUiKUruFsfeature=youtube_gdata_player


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Power Drivers

2011-10-16 Thread Fmiser
  Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Using a real hammer drill (like Bosch BullDog) making a 1/4
  inch (7mm) hole is easy, even in old hard concrete.

 Craig wrote:

 I had to go to the local rental yard to rent a rotary hammer
 (the difference in the actual terminology is significant).

The Bosch Bulldog is actually a rotary hammer.  Pretty much
anything that uses SDS or similar bit attachment is the real
deal.  I have seen the term hammer drill used for both the
wimpy, homeowner drill with an added hammer function and the
pro like a jack hammer, but it turns devices.  It is the
latter that I was referencing. *smiles*   The difference is like
Craig described.  It can almost feel like the you forgot to plug
in the little guy!

--   Philip

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[MBZ] OT Shameless self-promotion

2011-10-16 Thread Rich Thomas
It was an astoundingly gorgeous day today, my wife suggested we go 
kayaking, so took the boats over and threw them in the inlet, took along 
a fishing pole, and brought home a nice redfish for supper!  Nothing 
like a fresh-from-the-water redfish in a bit of olive oil and butter in 
a nice hot cast iron skillet!  YUM!!!


Benzcontent:  She was at the beach and met me and the yaks in her Benz 
which had her stand-up paddle board on top.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] W123 300TD wagon: Rear self leveling shock absobers, (hydropneumatic struts)

2011-10-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
My neighboring lift-mate at the tech session told me all about changing the
spheres on his W124 1991 (?) E420 (?) wagon.  The spheres are nearly hidden
from sight - this job is NOT for the faint of heart!  I can't understand why
they made things so much more complicated on the evolved later models.

On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 7:55 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 '89 should be a 124, different set-up but same principles. Accumulators are
 inside under a metal-backed carpet piece.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD

 Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Glad you know how to do it. Now I can pick your brain if I decide to do it
 to my brothers 89 wagon.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 16, 2011, at 5:07 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 It took a couple hours to replace the spheres (accumulators) on my 123
 wagon
 at the MBCA tech session yesterday. The only required tool I forgot to
 bring was the 10mm crows foot to remove the thin supply line (one of the
 techs on duty lent me his).

 For this job, everything is very accessible with the car on the lift. Also
 changed the oil and coolant, replaced a missing muffler hanger donut
 (source
 of the squeaky rear end noise), removed the front fender linings to clean
 out the composed leaves in the L and R fender well drains, and tightened
 the
 main fuel filter bolt (still leaks fuel on top of the filter canister
 housing, however - haven't figured that one out yet). The dealership
 provided continental breakfast (rolls, fruit, coffee, juice) and lunch,
 plus
 a squad of techs to help out and answer questions. All in all, not a bad
 deal for $25.00.

 Thanks to all for nursing me along. The car now rides with just the right
 amount of road feel, minus the jarring sensation. BTW, the old spheres were
 NOT saturated so didn't drench me with hydraulic fluid after all! The tech
 said they sometimes go bad without the internal seal being breached that
 would allow them to fill with SLS fluid.

 Andrew
 1985 300TD



 On Sun, Oct 9, 2011 at 6:32 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:50:54 -0400 andrew strasfogel
 astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 All:

 I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres! Seems to ride better now.
 I have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the
 suspension holds its height. Could the struts be leaking internally?

 Have you been reading this thread? Do you pay any attention to what
 people take time and energy to write?


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT BaT For OK Don

2011-10-16 Thread OK Don
Does it ever! Mine was an A - I custom built a very flat air cleaner
housing so avoided the hood scoop.
Thanks --

On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Should bring back a memory or two.
 Yours was a B though, I think.

 http://bringatrailer.com/2011/10/14/1957-mga-with-buick-v-8-and-5-speed/

 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 126 instrument cluster- Odometer

2011-10-16 Thread Luther's Benz
Pricey, yes, but also quality USA made that I'd gladly pay 50-75% more for.
Negative on the slipping gears. nbsp;The small gear is mounted on the stepper 
motor, and the two larger gears free spin as they drive the odometer numbers. 
nbsp;Each small gear I've removed came off in pieces and the brass insert 
under the plastic has to be destroyed to be removed. nbsp;Budget for replacing 
the gears.

Second the negative battery cable removal. nbsp;I forgot that step.

Luther

On Oct 16, 2011 8:18 PM, Dieselhead lt;126die...@gmail.comgt; wrote: 

Thanks, that is what I was after.  Kinda pricey for little plastic 

bits.  Sounds like I have to get it out before I can order the right 

parts.  Maybe I will get lucky and just have one slipping on the 

shaft.





gt;As has been said, extend the steering wheel all the way, then pull 

gt;the cluster using the tools OR pieces of coat hanger with a very 

gt;short and sharp (~1/4 140-160 degree) bend in the end.  Next visit 

gt;http://www.odometergears.com/products/Mercedes-Benz/126+Chassis+79-91+Diesel/53
 

gt;and figure out which gear setup you need and click purchase.  (I 

gt;promise I have no affiliation with OdoGears, just a 2+ purchase 

gt;satisfied customer)  Buy the three gear set as a new gear will 

gt;quickly strip the old gear(s) and make you repeat the process. 

gt;Don't ask how I know this

gt;

gt;  Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL

gt;'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)

gt;'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)



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[MBZ] Bremen MB assembly plant

2011-10-16 Thread RELNGSON
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9X6mTy8kyU

RLE
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