Re: [MBZ] [Daveslist] 140 CD

[Dave M.]

There is a W140 DVD, but I do not know if it's any easier to use than the
WIS. And, I'm not sure if it's currently available from MBNA (they are in
the process of re-doing some of their CD- and DVD-based service manuals).
For engine work, just use the M119 manual on the W124 CD. The 500E has
basically the same engine as the 500SEL.

=)

+dm™

On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 7:49 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> Is there something besides the WIS available for the 140's?  Is there a CD
> or DVD set available?  Where do you go to order it?  I looked at MBUSA but
> did not find anything.
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
> 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
> 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] [Daveslist] 119 broken valve cover

[Dave M.]

Kaleb,

Yeah, the upper rail is missing. I would pull the lower oil pan and inspect
inside... if you find broken rail pieces, I'd want to change all the rails,
not just the obvious one up top. Replacing them all is a big job, though,
the front timing cover has to come off. A guy is doing this job (plus head
gaskets) right now on Benzworld, check out this thead... see post #8 for
pictures of the rail you are missing:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1412881-92-500sel-head-gasket.html

There are a lot of really good photos of the M119 torn down in that thread.
You may need to sign up on the forum to view the pics, though.

=)

+dm™

On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 4:10 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> Pulled the valve cover today to survey the damage.  Looks like there is
> supposed to be a slide rail at the top of the head under the chain toward
> the middle side of the engine, which is not there.  Is this correct?  Looks
> like its broken which caused the valve cover to break. Chain is intact and
> it does not appear at least from the outside that there are any bent valves.
>  So, opinions on what needs to happen?  Does that slide rail need to be
> replaced or does it need to be torn down and all of them replaced?  If just
> one one, is there a way to replace it from up top?  Looks like I might have
> to split the chain and put in a new master link.  See pics
>
> http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/119brokenvalvecover/
>
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
>  89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
>  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Dave M.]

Yikes, Casey. That's a scary photo. And I thought my 300E was bad!
What I did to clean the fins was use a shop vacuum, and a toothbrush,
to scrape and suck away as much as possible, without pushing it
further into the core. I then used a foaming evaporator cleaner from a
local HVAC supply store to attempt further cleaning. I rinsed it with
water from a garden sprayer tank... the liquid runs out the bottom
drain tubes onto the floor. While it looked a lot prettier afterwards,
I didn't notice any significant improvement in HVAC performance, but
mine wasn't nearly as bad as yours. Here are photos of my my evap
cleaning project - only one side was occluded on mine, though:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/evap_clean1.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/evap_clean2.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/evap_clean3.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/evap_clean4.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/evap_clean5.jpg


I used Nu-Calgon Evap Foam cleaner, roughly $10/can - here's a link:
http://tinyurl.com/cdddo

This is a good reason to use the filters that Aaron Lam obtained
through some contacts in Japan... it helps keep this crud out of your
evaporator. Bummer they're so expensive, and so hard to obtain. It's a
worse bummer that the factory didn't start using filters on the 124
chassis the until 1994 model year. And, worse yet,  the factory setup
can't be retrofitted without replacing the *entire* HVAC box (i.e.,
gutting the entire car)... you can't just add the factory filters to
an 86-93 model.

:-(

-- 
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 100kmi (Q-ship)
1993 300D - 167kmi (Sportline)
1987 300D - 284kmi (Sportline Stage 2)

> ==
> On 12/26/07, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, I pulled the blower (without the benefit of a manual), and the brushes
> and commutator are toasterrific.  What's even more disturbing, is the huge
> amount of grunge-buildup on the heater core fins.  It's almost entirely
> occluded any passage of air through there.  It looks a lot like the texture
> of velour.  Is there a preferred method for removing this offending gunk?
> I'll bet my heater/cooler output increases measurably after this little
> exercise.
>
>
> On Dec 26, 2007 12:07 PM, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Pretty likely the fan motor is hosed. It will be fairly obvious once
> > it's out, if the brushes are shot, and/or the commutator is deeply
> > grooved. I would get the motor assembly WITH the fans mounted. The
> > problem is that swapping the cages is difficult to do without breaking
> > them. Although I've never tried, you might see if you can carefully
> > remove your old cages intact... if so, you could attempt the
> > motor-only swap. Be careful to get the cages installed in the right
> > direction (!), and don't lose the balance clips on them either.
> >

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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Dave M.]

Casey,

Are you getting any fan output at all? If not, I'd check the fan fuse,
which is either a 25A fuse in the fusebox on early 87's, or a 30A flat
strip fuse outside the fusebox on late '87 models. The monovalve and
vac system default into full-heat mode, but if there's no airflow from
the fan, you'll never feel any of that heat. :-(

Next, try gently turning the ignition key back towards 'off', just
slightly - not enough to make any of the idiot lights turn on. See if
the fan turns on. If so, the ignition switch is failing, but turning
the key back a bit should make things work for a while longer (a
couple of  years, in my case.)

Third, I'd check the aux heater pump, under the washer reservoir...
make sure this is not shorted out. Disconnect it if in doubt. Finally,
pull the blower motor and inspect the brushes... they usually don't
last more than 15-20 years. I somewhat doubt that the pushbutton unit
is the root cause of your problems, but if everything else checks out,
it could be. The factory ACC manual has a lot of step-by-step
troubleshooting procedures - it would be worthwhile to read that as
well.

=)

-- 
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 100kmi (Q-ship)
1993 300D - 167kmi (Sportline)
1987 300D - 284kmi (Sportline Stage 2)


> 
> On 12/26/07, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
> control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
> sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at all.
> I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
> allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
>
> So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick in
> until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I noticed
> a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the morning.
> Now, there's nothing at all.
>
> I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is exactly
> the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently have my
> CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
> anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
>
> TIA,
> Casey
>
> '87 300TD  230k
>

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale

[Dave M.]

Sunil,

The front bar is pretty easy... about an hour if you are mechanically
inclined. The rear bar is much more work, took me about 4 hours the
first time I did it, but with practice I can now do it in less than 1
hour. The procedure for the rear bar is on my website. No procedure
needed for the front, just don't tighten the clamps until the car is
settled on the ground in "ready to drive" position.

:)

-dm


--
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:44:05 -0700
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale


How hard is it to install sway bars on a 92 300D?  If it improves handling
and it's an easy install, I'm interested ...

Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale

[Dave M.]

I am almost certain that on the 124, you don't need to worry about
SLS, other than stretching the U-clamp or something. Should definitely
be doable. I never checked the Euro EPC to see if MB sells a larger
clamp for Sportline models with SLS. (Hmmm, might even be some USA
models with that too.) I'll take a peek when I have a chance.

:)

-dm


--
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 07:44:40 -0700
From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale


Ya, I've been wondering how I could upgrade the TD to a fatter bar,
but didn't want to mess with the SLS, especially if I had to fab the
linkage.

Re: [MBZ] Nice 500E for sale

[Dave M.]

Yep, that belongs to a forum member at 500E.com, he's mentioned
several times that it would be coming up for sale soon. If I were in
the market for another 500E, I would probably grab this immediately at
the "buy it now" price. The top speed photo is interesting, as the
speedo is optimistic for the indicated RPM... should be 149mph at
5500rpm, not 160 (at least with stock gearing).

:)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)


On 4/28/06, Darrell W. Sigmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

TAKE A LOOK SEE AT THIS 500E !!

DWS

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4635447889>

Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale

[Dave M.]

Chuck,

There are different Sportline sway bars for the W201 chassis,
including a sort of "stage 2" setup from the factory Evo II model
(201.036). However, I recall someone saying that the 124 front bar can
be made to fit a 201 if you cut an inch off each end, *and* flip the
mounting brackets on the frame around. I've never done this myself
though.

Glad you like the sway bars, Alex! I'm planning on upgrading to a 20mm
rear bar next, and leaving the "limo" front bar. That should help make
my car a tad more neutral (not that I have any complaints as-is,
though.)

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 21:49:07 -0700
> From: Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
>
>
> Alex & Dave...
>
> Will the W124 Sportline Swarbay fit into a W201 16V and improve
> cornering and reduce body roll??
>
> TIA,

Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Dave M.]

Kevin,

It sounds like you are trying to mount the clutch to the water pump,
then attach the fan blade separately? That would be awfully hard, if
not impossible. The blade and clutch should stay attached. You install
the water pump by itself, then drop the clutch+fan down the front and
bolt it on with the single 8mm Allen-head bolt. This is very, very
hard to do with the radiator in place if you don't have the bolt
spinner tool, and the stubby socket. You've got two options:

1) Pull the radiator. It will be easier in the long run, and gives you
an excuse to blow the radiator & condenser fins out with compressed
air.

2) Buy the stubby socket and fabricate the spinner tool. Photos are here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/OM60x_serp_belt_tools.jpg


With the correct tools (shown in the photo above), I can have the fan
+ clutch removed in literally less than 5 minutes. It's worth the tool
cost for the time savings if you own a 124/603 and do your own work...

:-)

-dm


> --
> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux
>
>
> Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
> from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
> metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
> able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.
>
> The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible
> to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing
> the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.)
>
> Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the
> bullet and pull the radiator tonight?
>
> ...Kevin
> 87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)

Re: [MBZ] 124 broken window

[Dave M.]

I'd let the dealer do the job, but if you or anyone else is removing
the rear (or front) door panel on a W124, the big tip is DO NOT PRY
OUTWARD. Remove the plastic stuff, unbolt the top of the door handle,
slide the door handle housing forward to un-clip it, then the whole
panel slides straight upward. No prying of any kind is required.
Prying will break irreplaceable plastic tabs.

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 19:57:14 -0400
> From: "wilton strickland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 124 broken window
>
> Flying rock from a landscaper's grass trimmer broke rt rr window in my
> showroom 87 300D today.  'Fraid guys at glass shop my not know how to r&r
> inside panel without damage to panel, tabs, etc.  Any tips I may give them?
> Is it more like 123 or 126?
> I've done 123 and 126.  No longer able to do it myself.
>
> Wilton

Re: [MBZ] proper boost pressure on a 300Dt

[Dave M.]

Spec is 0.75-0.85 bar, I believe (10-12psi).

On my 1984 300D, there was no increase in power beyond 10psi... same
power with 10psi as there was with 17psi. You need more fuel to make
more power. But, if you are under 10psi, either the wastegate is
opening too soon, or the IP is way low on fuel delivery (ALDA
adjustment needed).

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 15:00:10 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] proper boost pressure on a 300Dt
>
>
> What is the boost pressure supposed to be on a 1985 300Dt?
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Chris

Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender

[Dave M.]

It's almost impossible to tell without pulling the head. You need to
measure how high each piston comes out of the block - all 6 should be
equal. It could be done via the prechamber hole with a special factory
tool (normally used to determine TDC location) but in reality, almost
nobody would (or even *could*) do that - just pull the head, inspect
the cylinder walls, and measure the piston protrusion.

Once the oil consumption gets bad enough to really notice, it's WAY
too late. Oil consumption on any 60x engine should (IMO) be about 4000
miles per quart or better. Less than 4k and somthing ain't right,
under 2k/qt start saving for a motor. (This assumes the oil is NOT
going out a bad turbo seal, or into #1 cylinder from the timing chain
cavity due to a failing head gasket.) Nothing to see or do from the
bottom end, so leave the oil pan alone.

If oil consumption is better than 4k/qt, it's a decent bet that the
engine is OK. No guarantees, but pretty good odds. That's when you
hope the previous owner is telling the truth and is 100% positive the
number of miles per quart!

=)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 16:21:00 -0400
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender
>
>
> Thanks again to the replies - there certainly seems to be some differences
> of opinions - but the people on this forum seems to be in agreement.
>
> Dave M wrote:<>.
>
> This option seems to be the best of all worlds - next question -- how do you
> determone if the rods have/have not started bending without pulling the head
> and check the cylinders for ovality and perhaps the oil pan to check the con
> rods?  Which sounds like you'd be pretty far along to completely
> disassembling the engine for a rebuild.
>
> Would oil consumption be the symptom to indicate the rods have not bent?  Or
> is this something where you buy the car with the thought of fixing whatever
> you find?
>
> I guess this kind of scenario needs to get into the negotiations when a car
> is found - certainly would seem to be a tricky situation --
>
> TIA -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T

Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender

[Dave M.]

Larry,

Short answer - the note on the other forum was wrong. With a bent-rod
3.5L engine, you have basically 2 viable options:

1) Replace the engine with a factory 3.5L crate motor (long or short block)

2) Replace the engine with a 3.0L from a 1986/87 300D/TD/SDL.


If the 3.5L engine still has round cylinders and no oil consumption,
you have a third option... replace the rods BEFORE they bend. Kinda
spendy ($1200+ in parts, plus labor) but far cheaper than a new motor.

Putting a 617 into a W140 is just silly, IMO.


:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 11:52:43 -0400
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender
>
>
> Recently read a note asking about putting a W123 300D into a 350SDL
> rodbender on another forum  - the short answer given was - "yes, it;s an
> easy change".
>
> Has anyone tried this?  Is it an easy change as they said?  Seems like a
> reasonable way to save a W140 that has exhibited its terminal rod problems.
> W123 300Ds are pretty reasonable now a-days and once the engine and
> ancilliary parts were removed the remainder could be parted out/sold, making
> it a zero cost option - depending on cost and proceeds from selling stuff.
>
> Curious - I think there's some W140s out there that have gotten the dreaded
> "Need a rebuild" comment from their technician and they might want to just
> be rid of it.
>
> BTW, would the donor engine mate to the W140 tranny easily?  Or perhaps the
> donor car needs to provide the engine *and* tranny??
>
> Thx -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)

Re: [MBZ] Diesel G and M and C and E

[Dave M.]

More specifically, the chassis, and fancy electronic widgets, may have
a tough time making it past 300kmi. Seems Mercedes stopped making the
"million mile car" after the W124. Now, on the other hand, the newer
diesel engines may be ok (mechanically) far past 300k with proper
maintenance. I'm sticking with the W124 for many years to come, thank
you berry much.

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 10:26:52 -0400
> From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel G and M and C and E
>
>
> If the 99 E-Class is any example, the new Mercedes will seldom if ever last
> 300kmi.
>
> -Dave Walton
> 94S350, 99E300

Re: [MBZ] Free 86 Benz

[Dave M.]

Clay, if you check it out, let me know what model it is... I might be
interested if it's a 300E, or 300SDL...

=)

+dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 02:01:44 -0400
> From: "Ed Booher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Free 86 Benz
>
>
> If it is truly free, as in here's title now drag it away please, even
> without a key how could it not be worth it, yes? I mean, stripping it
> for parts would more than make for trouble of having to drag home,
> wouldn't it?
>
> On 4/26/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > http://seattle.craigslist.org/zip/154375764.html
> >
> > I have no idea, but I may have to go look at it and take it home.
> >
> > --
> > Clay
> > Seattle Bioburner

Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?

[Dave M.]

Larry,

Your "dream MB" does exist - Mercedes built it for sale in Europe.
It's the W140.135, which is a W140 chassis with a 177hp intercooled,
turbocharged OM606.961 engine (similar to what the 98-99 E300 has here
in the USA). I would seriously consider buying one if I ever found a
clean example for sale on this side of the pond. They're very rare in
the USA, I think just a handful came over, imported by diplomats or
executives. Pretty sure it was badged the "S300", not to be confused
with the rodbending 300SD, 350SDL, or S350.

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 11:24:43 -0400
> From: Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?
>
>
> ~Also - in Europe, I read that over 1/2 of the S class new car sales had
> ~diesel engines.
> ~That would be my "dream MB" - a 96-99 S Class with a large turbo diesel -
> ~The ultimate in luxury.  I know the W140 is supposed to be vault like -- and
> ~never having driven a W140 or the newer S CLass (W220?) I can't really speak
> ~from experience but I would suspect the newer S Class would be close to the
> ~W140 in luxury and ride quality - probably not as good build quality as the
> ~W140 but it'd be nice to have the option.  I'd like to see some on the used
> ~car market -
> ~
> ~Oh well - I wonder of MB listens to the public?
> ~
> ~Sincerely,

[MBZ] Hydrogen boost gimmicks?

[Dave M.]

Anyone have data showing if these work or are hoxes? I couldn't locate
anything on Snopes or Google. Here's a couple of samples:

http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/index.html

http://www.savefuel.ca/

Basically, they claim to extract hydrogen from plain tap water, then
let your engine suck that in, for 20% increase in fuel economy. I
smell a rat... a friend wants to buy one and I'd like to have facts to
use before I talk him out of it, lol!


=)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?

[Dave M.]

Pretty sure the article I just read on the new GL class (yeesh, like
we really NEEDED yet another chassis class?) is that MB will be
offering a CDI engine of some sort later this year or in 2007.

I'm still waiting for the twin-turbo CDI V8 in a W211 to come stateside.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?
>
>
> I don't get MB. You'd think they'd start putting diesel engines in more
> cars. I know that folks who buy a new MB can usually afford to put
> gasoline in the tank, but at the same time, there must be a large cross
> section that would like to be able to say they get really good mileage in
> their new XX class MB. Donchathink?
>
> ...Kevin
> 87 300TD 283k mi

Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale

[Dave M.]

They will reduce body roll. I had that setup on both my W124 diesels.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:57:39 -0400
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
>
>
> what do sportline swaybars do to the handling of a diesel 124?

[MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale

[Dave M.]

FYI - contact Aaron directly at the email address below if you're interested.

:-)

-dm

> On 4/24/06, Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I'm selling my front and rear Sportline swaybars since I've decided
> to go with a Limo bar up front and an H&R in the rear. $200 OBO,
> strongly prefer local pickup in So Cal. :)
>
> -Aaron
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] What E320 to purchase '99 or '00? How about an older 400E?

[Dave M.]

Forget any W210 - too many kwality issues - unless it's got a healthy
Starmark to back it up. If he really wants a 400E, I would stick with
the 1994-95 E420 instead - bigger brakes (the '92 had small brakes)
and the 94-95 will have the full body updates. Not a bad car, but...

...if he really wants the ultimate ride, might I suggest a 1992-93
500E, or 1994 E500? Partially hand-built by Porsche, rare, gorgeous,
and stupid fast for a 12 year old sedan. Typical prices run from
$10k-$25k depending on miles, condition, accessories, etc. Lots more
info can be had at 500E.com, and I also have some assorted articles on
my website at this link:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/

Now, assuming he wants a mid-size Mercedes, I would strongly recommend
a W124 of some sort. Another option would be the 1993-95 cabriolet,
and for fuel economy, any 1990-95 diesel. (But NOT an S-class diesel!)
Yes, I'm biased, I own both a 124 diesel and an E500. I'd avoid any
car with the M103 engine unless he doesn't mind being a little short
on low-end torque. The M104, M119, and diesels are all generally ok in
my book.

;-)

-Dave M.



> --
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 16:06:58 -0400
> From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] What E320 to purchase '99 or '00? How about an older
>400E?
>
>
> A friend has decided to purchase his first Mercedes and asked for my
> advice.  He's 47, works hard and deserves to drive something nice than the
> '91 Ford he currently owns.  He has a budget between $12 - $18K, and his
> choices boil down to a '92 400E at around $12K, a '99 green/parchment 60K
> E320 for $15,900, a 2000 E320 with 74K miles for the same price ($15,900),
> and a 54K immaculately maintained black/black '99 E320 from the local dealer
> for $18K.  Any thoughts/suggestions?  All gave clean Car fax reports and are
> clean, with service records and no obvious current problems.  The '99 is a
> real beauty but is too old for a Star Mark warranty.  The 2000 is not being
> sold by a dealer so no Star Mark either...  Any "fatal flaws" in either of
> these models for any particular model years he should know about?  What
> about repair costs?  Any reason to own a 2000 with 20K more miles than a '99
> model E320?
>
> Andrew
> No car younger than 21 years old

[MBZ] $10k rodbender, $17k W116 6.9

[Dave M.]

Wild... bidding went over $10k on this rodbender. One owner, no
mention of a crate motor, 97kmi. Listing ended early, must have sold
off eBay for over $10k...? Funny part - reserve not met! ROTFL!:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4632716450



Oh yeah, that GORGEOUS 6.9 went for less than I expected... $17k:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4631187834


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] W140 door closing system problem

[Dave M.]

D'oh. Looks like my answer is at this link... this is required reading
for all W140 owners, or anyone who plans to own a W140. GREAT
writeup...

http://www.v12uberalles.com/Closing_Assist_Pump.htm

I sent this to my BIL, I'm curious what he finds out on his car.


:-)

-dm


> Hi all,
>
> My BIL's 1994 S500 had a problem with the door closing system, which
> has an electrically-operated vacuum pump in the trunk. (This is a
> SEPARATE pump from the door locks, btw.) It basically would stop
> working, so he'd pull the fuse (in the trunk) and re-insert it, which
> would re-set the system and it would work a few times and then quit.
> He got a rebuilt pump from Beckman Technologies...
>
> http://www.beckmanntechnologies.com/products.html
>
> ...and that fixed the problem. Now, a few months later, one door is
> not closing like it should. Rumor is, that's a sign of the pump going
> out (again!). Does anyone know enough about these systems to say if
> that's a true statement? Anyone have troubleshooting info on these
> things? Sure is a nice car when everything works right...!
>
> :-)
>
>
> --
> Dave M.
> Boise, ID
> 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
> 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] W140 door closing system problem

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

My BIL's 1994 S500 had a problem with the door closing system, which
has an electrically-operated vacuum pump in the trunk. (This is a
SEPARATE pump from the door locks, btw.) It basically would stop
working, so he'd pull the fuse (in the trunk) and re-insert it, which
would re-set the system and it would work a few times and then quit.
He got a rebuilt pump from Beckman Technologies...

http://www.beckmanntechnologies.com/products.html

...and that fixed the problem. Now, a few months later, one door is
not closing like it should. Rumor is, that's a sign of the pump going
out (again!). Does anyone know enough about these systems to say if
that's a true statement? Anyone have troubleshooting info on these
things? Sure is a nice car when everything works right...!

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Move fast!

[Dave M.]

Alex,

Yeah, I still have that car... an immaculate 1986 300E. I had bought
it to replace the wife's crinkled W123. But, not long after I bought
it she decided she'd rather be an "ex"-wife, and as part of the
settlement she kept the W123 and I kept the 300E. I've fixed almost
everything on it, but don't plan to keep it long term... I want to
replace it with a 90-93 W124 diesel. If anyone is seriously interested
in my gasser, email me offline with offers over $4k. (Yes, it's that
nice.) ;-)

About the M103, it's the second one I've owned. I just dislike the
powerband. I'm spoiled by the diesel's low-end torque. The M103 pulls
much harder up top but I don't spend much time up there. The
mechanical/electronic injection system is a bit of a nuisance to
troubleshoot, as well. My modified 603 engine is already faster than
the 300E through the quarter mile, and when I'm done it will be faster
everywhere... the 300E is still a bit quicker above 80-90mph but I'm
about to rectify that, heh-heh.


-dm  :)


> --
> Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 09:55:36 -0700
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Move fast!
>
> >  On 4/19/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I've always wanted a 4Matic for winter use, but I really dislike the
> > M103 engine. (Just a personal preference thing.)
>
>
>
> Dave, I thought you were fixing up an early 300E a while back?  Did it give
> you a PITA?  Do tell!
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Move fast!

[Dave M.]

The 4Matic is like the 3.5L diesel. Only the originals from the
factory were grenades with the pin pulled. The replacements should be
fine. Pretty likely that by 200k, the original is long gone, and the
replacement should be ok.

I've always wanted a 4Matic for winter use, but I really dislike the
M103 engine. (Just a personal preference thing.) I'd give a left arm
(well, maybe a little toe anyway) for the 603 diesel 4Matic (124.333)
that was sold in Europe!

If that Craigslist car was closer I'd definitely go check it out.
Don't suppose it's in anyone's back yard, huh...

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 01:55:21 -0700
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Move fast!
>
> >
> > http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/152418789.html
> >
> > W124 for only $3300, wednesday only
> >
>
> No such thing as a 124 4Matic on which "everything works"!  Let's see, 212K
> mi, so it should be on the fifth or sixth transfer case?  Don't they blow up
> after 50K or so?
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Hose pliers (was: 300SE fuel pump)

[Dave M.]

Harbor Freight has similar pliers for $9.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93038

They also have small hose pinching tools, which is what I have.
Mercedes sells an official tool (shown in the factory service manual)
but those aren't cheap. I got basically the same thing from Harbor
Freight for about $5 for two, but I can't find them on their website
anywhere - might be an in-store only item? They look just like this:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=28835

These are nice since they fit in tight areas. Great for auto tranny
cooler hoses, power steering hoses, etc etc... every toolbox should
have 4 of these widgets. Definitely worth the ten bucks!

:-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 03:02:26 -0700
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] R&R fuel pump replacement 300SE 1990
>
> > Jim Cathey wrote:
> >
> > > But I believe that all one usually does is to pinch off the rubber
> > > fuel line from the tank with vise-grips.  Gently!
> >
> > That's what I do, anticipating replacing the hoses every time.  They're
> > often hardened by age and will leak when pinched.  But the hose is cheap
> > and if it can't hold up to a pinch, you're better off with fresh,
> > flexible hose anyway.  Put some vynil tubing on the ends of the grips to
> > minimize the risk of damaging the hoses.
>
>
> C'mon guys, spring for a set of proper hose pliers!  I've found this set to
> be a godsend:
> http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT150_pg4.htm#32
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement

[Dave M.]

I uploaded the airbag TSB to my website. It's a 7kb PDF file:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/airbag_service_life.pdf

It's short but worth reading if you own a Mercedes with an airbag.
It's dated September 2002 so it's pretty recent information.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:45:34 -0600
> From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement
>
>
> Airbags up to 1991 are supposed to be replaced when they are 15 years
> old, but I've not yet heard of "old" bags not firing. Airbags from
> 1992 up are designed to last the lifetime of the car - there's a TSB
> that says so, I have the PDF at home, don't think I've uploaded it to
> my website yet. Good excuse to get a late-model leather steering wheel
> and 1992-up airbag for your early W124/W126/W201, IMO!! They're not
> all that expensive from salvage yards.
>
>
> :)
>
> -dm

Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement

[Dave M.]

Airbags up to 1991 are supposed to be replaced when they are 15 years
old, but I've not yet heard of "old" bags not firing. Airbags from
1992 up are designed to last the lifetime of the car - there's a TSB
that says so, I have the PDF at home, don't think I've uploaded it to
my website yet. Good excuse to get a late-model leather steering wheel
and 1992-up airbag for your early W124/W126/W201, IMO!! They're not
all that expensive from salvage yards.


:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 13:35:26 -0700
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> Sounds like the car was in a front-end collision and the airbag was
> replaced.  10 years is the recommended SRS check time, and at some point MB
> USA extended the check to 15 years in the 124.  Marshall will correct me if
> I'm wrong.

Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 sighting

[Dave M.]

Same here. Lots of T&S on the shelf but it's all the new 5W-30 crap.

The 5W-40 (aka "Turbo Diesel Truck") is still nowhere to be found.

:-(

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:03:12 -0400
> From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 sighting
>
>
> "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> >
> > I noticed the walmart here now has the TSUV stuff on the self again, at
> > least for now.
>
> My Walmart had nothing thicker than 10W30, although the shelves were
> fully stocked. TSUV was 5W30 for $20.84 / 5qts.

Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Dave M.]

It's either the water pump, or something related the water pump
housing, which is a separate item from the block. The water pump and
the t-stat cover both attach to this housing. Photo below:


<http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/engine_stand3.jpg>

<http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_exhaust/thermo-tec4.jpg>

Here's a photo of Casey's new housing:
<http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/MB%20Repairs/H2O-pump%20housing-front.jpg>



--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)


> --
> Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:51:02 -0400
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux
>
>
> Well, when it rains it pours.
>
> I put the 87 300TD up on the ramps Saturday and removed the sound sheild
> after seeing a small puddle of coolant under the car. (My wife says that
> she noticed a puddle the other day as well and neglected to tell me
> about it.) After having a look at various hoses and connections
> underneath and up top, nothing looked bad or appeared to be leaking.
>
> I started the engine and immediately saw a trickle / dribbling of
> coolant from around the bottom of the alternator bracket. It looked to
> be coming out from behind where it attaches to the block. It wasn't the
> hose that attaches to the side of the engine where the thermostat is,
> nor was it from the thermostat housing itself. In short, I couldn't spot
> the leak, but it's definately there and a concern. Could this be the
> water pump failing? Anything else I should consider before ordering a
> new water pump and tearing into the area of the leak?
>
> ...Kevin
> 87 300TD 283k mi.

[MBZ] 1992 300D for sale in FL

[Dave M.]

I spotted this on Cars.com and inquired about the VIN, so I could see
what options it has. I'm looking for ASD and heated seats, of which
this car has neither. It's green with cream Tex interior. Sounds very
nice, if it had the options I wanted I'd be all over it. Thought I'd
pass it along in case anyone else is interested... more details from
the seller are in the email attached below:


-- Forwarded message --
From: bpdodson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Apr 13, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: 1992 mercedes


I am not the original owner. I bought the car from a man who works for
mercedes in jacksonville here at their port where they import into
usa. His mother in Ocala owned it originally, I think. The VIn is
WDBEB28D6NB643790.  I used it as a spare car for my grown sons and me.
I think it would be great for a kid going to college. Car looks like
new on inside and outside. new a/c total system. everything works.

1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo, 196kmi
$4,500 (Or Best Offer)
Seller: bill dodson
Daytime Phone: 904-599-9120
Mobile Phone: 904-536-1717
Vehicle Location: saint augustine, FL

bill dodson

Re: [MBZ] Nice 95 S350D

[Dave M.]

Sunil,

You are correct. If you buy one that still has straight rods and round
cylinders, you can replace the rods with the new style, and the engine
should last as long as any MB diesel powerplant. The W140 has lots of
fancy gadgets that are expensive to fix when the act up, though. It's
a very nice car but not for the faint of wallet.

:)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:02:53 -0400
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice 95 S350D
>
>
> But the 350SDLs are fine after they have a new engine or new rods installed,
> right?
>
> Let's say you're looking at a S-class with the 3.5L diesel engine - if all
> the cylinders have good compression, then you can just put new connecting
> rods in and have a very reliable car, right?  Costs you $2500, $3000 or so
> (assuming you don't do it yourself) and you have the last overengineered,
> non-electronic S-class.  Seems like a good way to buy a car.

Re: [MBZ] R12 replacement

[Dave M.]

Hey Kaleb,

Try this stuff:

http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/envirosafe_tech.htm

:)

-dm

> --
>  Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] R12 replacement
>
>
> Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 rather than converting to 134?
>  Tried duracool and last time I ordered it stuff didnt seem to work
> hardly at all.  Have a couple of virgin r12 systems that need to be
> recharged and want to try something else?  Freeze12?  Dont think I like
> the envirosafe from what I remember.  What else has people used?  Want
> something that can work with either the mineral oil or the stuff for
> 134

Re: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop

[Dave M.]

Sort of, but not quite. First you'll need to remove your ALDA -
there's a pictorial at this link:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/

Then, you either add a shim underneath of the correct thickness, or
you remove the tamper seal on top, loosen the locknut, and turn the
setscrew (carefully!). Turn it CCW to richen the mixture. Usually
1.0-1.5 turns is about right. You adjust richer until there's no more
power gain off idle, then maybe turn it back just a hair. A slight
puff of smoke leaving a stop is normal. A lot of smoke leaving a stop
is not normal. Properly adjusted, you'll have no loss in MPG. It may
take some experimenting to get the setting correct.

It's also good to verify the ALDA isn't leaking. To test, you have to
apply pressure with a MityVac (NOT vacuum, has to be pressure). It
should pump up to about 15psi and either hold that pressure, or leak
down slowly. If you can't pump it above zero psi with a MItyVac, or it
leaks down very quickly, you need a new shaft seal (as shown in the
photos at the link above). Jim Friesen sells the seals for about $10
if you need one. This only affects part-throttle power, though, if it
is leaking.

:-)

-Dave M.

On 4/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> it feels like low fuel from a start...is this adjustment done with just a
> screwdriver applied in the right spot?
>
> -- Original message --
> From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > Jay,
> >
> > This sounds like a classic case of low fuel delivery off idle. An ALDA
> > adjustment will probably cure things. The car should get from 0-60 in
> > approximately 13 seconds as timed with a stopwatch, on a flat road,
> > somewhere near sea level. If you live at high elevation, the car will
> > be a bit slower, especially from a stop. I forget if there are any
> > tutorials on Rusty's forum, or Kaleb's website, explaining how to
> > adjust the ALDA... it's not simple on your car, but it's not terribly
> > difficult either. Done correctly, the car should be almost fast (!)
> > leaving a stop, with no loss in fuel economy, and possibly improved
> > shift characteristics.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > -Dave M.
> >
> > > --
> > > Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:05:48 +
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop
> > >
> > >
> > > my '86sdl with 225kmiles has a slow start up from standing
> > > still...almost as
> > > if i push down and then wait for the next chapter...
> > >
> > > very good accelleration after the rpm's go up, great mileage, and this
> > > problem happens mostly after the car is well warmed up...
> > >
> > > any thoughts?

Re: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop

[Dave M.]

Jay,

This sounds like a classic case of low fuel delivery off idle. An ALDA
adjustment will probably cure things. The car should get from 0-60 in
approximately 13 seconds as timed with a stopwatch, on a flat road,
somewhere near sea level. If you live at high elevation, the car will
be a bit slower, especially from a stop. I forget if there are any
tutorials on Rusty's forum, or Kaleb's website, explaining how to
adjust the ALDA... it's not simple on your car, but it's not terribly
difficult either. Done correctly, the car should be almost fast (!)
leaving a stop, with no loss in fuel economy, and possibly improved
shift characteristics.

:)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:05:48 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop
>
>
> my '86sdl with 225kmiles has a slow start up from standing still...almost as
> if i push down and then wait for the next chapter...
>
> very good accelleration after the rpm's go up, great mileage, and this
> problem happens mostly after the car is well warmed up...
>
> any thoughts?

Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

[Dave M.]

Kevin,

First a little clarification, then on to your problems. In the
124.133/.193, the high speed only runs at temps over 105C. The switch
is on top of the engine at the water outlet. The low speed only runs
when AC refrigerant pressure exceeds 16 or 20 bar, depending if you
have the old green or new red switch. That switch is located at the
receiver-drier. Nothing related to fan operation is located at the
thermostat housing (the switch down there is for the tranny
cold-shift-softening vacuum circuit).


1) If you can short the 2 pins and make the fan come on high speed,
replace the switch. These switches have a high failure rate. Every one
of the 4 cars in my family came from the previous owners with bad
switches. Replace it!! I use the 603.971 switch which is cheaper and
has a lower temp rating. Part number and photo is here:
<http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/Temp_switch_105-12x.jpg>


2) The low speed switch requires AC evacuation to replace. If you have
the green one, replace it with a red one. The resistor is right next
to the receiver drier. If bad, or bypassed, replace it or un-bypass
it. Hopefully this switch is working ok.

3) Your engine should almost never, EVER exceed 105C and need the aux
electric fan. If that's happening, you have other issues. If the fan
clutch is truly bad, either try refilling with silicone, or replace
it. Yes it does something at freeway speeds too, don't expect ram air
to cool the engine.

4) If the radiator is more than 5 years old it is also highly suspect.
They can corrode internally and although flow is fine, it won't cool
worth squat. My car had the radiator replaced at the dealership in
1993, and when I bought the car in 1997 and had hot running problems
like you, I assumed it couldn't be the radiator because it was only 4
years old. Guess what? It was the radiator. It's awfully hard to
diagnose, though. I replaced everything else and that was the only
thing left, so I took the gamble and it worked.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:53:42 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list
> wisdom tracking them down.
>
> The foremost, and the one I've forgotten about since the last warm days of
> last fall, is that my auxillary fan never comes on. On the way home from
> work last evening (outside temperature around 68 degrees F) after I got
> off the highway and was making my way through some local lights, the
> temperature gauge went about 110 (probably over 115) and no aux fan. I
> made it home without incident and decided to check out what I could.
>
> Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the
> temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should.
> (Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same
> with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as
> expected.
>
> A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by
> me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the
> coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan
> resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous
> clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead.
>
> What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running?
> Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working
> correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and
> go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was
> on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in.
>
> ...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll
> come and cut your grass if you help me out!)
>
> 87 300TD 282k miles

Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs

[Dave M.]

A shop vac should pull out any little chunks from the breather hole,
which doesn't open directly into the head anyway. I wouldn't worry too
much about it. You'll likely need a new seal where the tube attaches
to the valve cover, this seal is often fossilized after 5-10 years. My
originals came out in chunks and felt like plastic... it should be
nice, soft rubber. A new PCV tube is something like $30 I think.

No worries about driving the car around the driveway with the PCV not
connected, but I wouldn't drive it down the road like that... you'll
be blowing quite a bit of oil vapor out the valve cover hole, and
sucking unfiltered air into the rubber intake snorkel.

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:01:44 -0400
> From: ANGELO GIAIMO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs
>
>
> Sunday, while tring to replace the boost pressure control hose on the
> turbo, I removed the several other pieces of hardware for better access.
> One such piece, the breather hose, went "SNAP" at the valve cover
> endbusted off flush at the gromet while tring to remove it.  Oh s**t.
>
> I can account for all (well, almsost all) of the plastic, so I'm pretty
> confident none went down the breather hole, but short of removing the valve
> cover (and now, part of the intake manifold), any tricks to getting this
> plastic out?
>
> Also, aside from running rough, will I do any real damage leaving the hose
> "disconnected" at the valve cover?  No real amount of driving, just jocking
> it around so I can get another vehicle out of the garage.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS

[MBZ] OM603 water injection project - update

[Dave M.]

The latest data from my water injection (ok, actually washer fluid,
which is a methanol & water mix) saga is posted here:

http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475

Short summary: Even with much larger amounts injected, there's a limit
to reduction in IAT's, and nearly *zero* reduction of EGT's. Oddly,
I'm now getting a measureable power gain with the injection, possibly
from the methanol being burned as additional fuel. That's nice for a
short term power boost, but still won't allow me to maintain long-term
WOT like for climbing hills or top speed (where I have to back off the
throttle to keep EGT's from melting pistons.)

O_o

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] K-Mac rear camber kit installed

[Dave M.]

The writeup, and photos of the installation process, are on Rusty's forum:

http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584

:-)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T parts car or fixer, cheap

[Dave M.]

No affiliation, etc:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4628199906

I wonder which is correct on the mileage... 900,024 or 9,000,024?
Anyway - no photos on the auction listing, but here's some of the
text. Located in Ocean Springs, MS.


"1992 Mercedes Benz 300-D Turbo, 90,00024 miles. Diesel fuel. the
motor is in excellant condition, Body is in excellant condition,
however the front of the car was hit and the air bag deployed, needs
new bumper and airbag. I have the radiator out of the car as well as
the transmition cooling coil both are in good shape. I had to remove
them so I could get to the front bumper brackets they need to be
straighten out. I can start the car and the motor run great and the
transmition is in great shape. The car is loud due to a exaust leak.
To make a long story short, the car could be driven anywhere with just
a little work. "

Current bid = $100. This has Kaleb written all over it, along with
"SuperTurbo Project Car"...

:)

-dm

Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush

[Dave M.]

The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a one-wire sensor, but it is
located on the side of the cylinder head between the glow plugs. If
original, it doesn't hurt to replace it, although usually when they go
bad they read low, not high. A new sensor is about $10-12 from Rusty.

The sensor you're seeing at the t-stat area is either for the EDS
(which I didn't think was used back in 1982) or it's a temp switch of
some sort. I haven't owned a W123 in a while and I forget what the
sensor up top is for.

:)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)


> --
> Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 11:04:12 -0400
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
>
> >New Question:
>
> I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near
> the thermostat housing with one wire attached ?

[MBZ] Picture rims

[Dave M.]

No comment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeKD-LWjAKY&feature=Featured&page=1&t=t&f=b

Kaleb, you could have a set on your W126 with a plug for Striplin.net,
or Bimby...

=)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush

[Dave M.]

Just a quick note on the fan clutch. I've read a couple comments that
the fan doesn't do much at freeway speeds, where "ram air"
theoretically would cool the car. This is not correct... the fan does
a *lot* more than you think at freeway speeds. Anyone who doesn't
think so should remove their fan and go for a quick test drive in the
summertime at 55mph+. (I'd recommend you bring the fan, and tools,
with you in case you need to re-install on the side of the road.) When
I bought my car in 1997, the old fan clutch was inoperative. The new
clutch significantly reduced freeway operating temps. At low speeds,
the engine isn't spinning fast enough to make the fan do much
anyway... the radiator condition, t-stat, and electric fan are more
important at idle and low vehicle speeds.

Also remember that gas cars tend to heat up a lot at idle, while
diesels produce minimal heat at idle. Diesels tend to build heat under
load, and cool off when load is removed. I've had more than one MB or
VW diesel that would cool off at idle compared to running at freeway
speeds in *really* hot weather.

Jim's comment about a bad or plugged radiator causing a good clutch
not to engage is also important... you need good airflow through rad &
condenser fins, AND there cannot be a "cool spot" in the radiator
directly ahead of the clutch.

:)

+dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 07:33:52 -0700
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
>
>
> > All that said, I'd start with the thermostat!  You did remember to
> > put it back in after the flush, right?  Is it in correctly?

[MBZ] Tranny question - doesn't like to engage reverse

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

A friend of mine recently bought a 1991 560SEL which he's quite happy
with (it's his first Mercedes purchase). It has a tranny problem,
which is why he got it fairly cheap. When cold, it goes into reverse
with little if any trouble. When warm, he has to rev the engine
slightly, and then in bangs/clunks into reverse.

Is this a known/common problem, and if so, is there an easy fix? He
doesn't want to shell out for a rebuilt tranny, and is itching to tear
the tranny apart to replace what he's sure is just a bad O-ring
somewhere (I don't share his optimism, nor enthusiasm, lol!) If I
could point him toward a specific area to look at that would be great.
Tranny shifts perfectly in forward gears, btw.

Thanks!

:)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] Photos of W124 diesel sound panels

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

I posted Larry's recent photos on my website, and also posted the
photos of the brand-new 1987 300D/TD sound panels as well. Note that
the '87 panels have sound-absorbing foam. Does anyone know if the 1991
(124.128) models had the foam as well? I think there used to be a
bigger price difference... I would have sworn the 2.5 Turbo panels
were a lot cheaper. But either I imagined that, or the prices have
shot up recently:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/sound_panels/


1987 panels:
124-520-50-23 - Front, $302 list
124-520-34-24 - Rear, $310 list

1990-93 panels:
124-520-95-23 - Front, $180 list
124-520-31-24 - Rear, $310 list


:-)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Does this help Dave M?

[Dave M.]

Jeff, thanks for the link - that's VERY close, but not quite what I
need. :-( That's a Gen 1 front bumper, which I think would clear an
intercooler. The problem is, despite the seller's claim, the square
light holes accept Bosch lights which are only available as driving
lights - I don't know of any fog lights available to fit down there,
and I need fogs. The Gen 2 bumper has different light holes and I can
get fogs for that version. On a side note, it sounds like this guy is
selling a replica, not an original. I should ask, though. Thanks again
for the heads-up!

Casey, I don't know about the Gen1 bumper, but Aaron took some good
photos of the Gen2 and I'm pretty sure it will swallow your FMIC.
Here's photos of Aaron's bumper (which is the exact item I'm still
looking for) :

<http://www.w124performance.com/images/intercooler/bumper_AMG/both_bumpers.jpg>

:-)

-Dave M.


> --
> Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 15:41:54 -0800
> From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this help Dave M?
>
>
> Ya know, that almost doesn't look like it's got enough rake-back to
> clear the intercooler, at least the IC that's installed on my car.  I
> didn't think the AMG spoilers had those silly wings on them.
>
> On 3/31/06, Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300E-W124-86-95-AMG-Style-Front-Spoiler-Body-Kit-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33638QQitemZ8050866121QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting>
>
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
> '87 300TD intercooler (212k)

[MBZ] Enzo crash update

[Dave M.]

In case you missed it... these clowns lied to the cops and eventually
got busted. The TV station video clip is amazing, shows how the car
got airborne at estimated 160mph, and hit the pole while 2 feet in the
air. It's also just plain wrong that this guy owns not one, but TWO
Enzos, both with custom wheels... AND he's got an SLR! Insane:

http://www.wreckedexotics.com/special/enzo/



--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Jacking Up a W124

[Dave M.]

Larry,

That won't be an issues... both sound panels need to come off for the
ATF work. I put the jack stands either under the front lower control
arms, or under the body crossemember under the engine.

BTW, if you could take some photos of the sound panels, that would be
great. A few of us have always wondered why the 90-93 panels are so
much cheaper than the 1987 panels, when they should be the same size &
shape....

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 12:26:38 -0500
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Jacking Up a W124
>
>
> I plan to change the ATF & filter, coolant and T'Stat this weekend and need
> to raise the front end.  Where should I place the jack and jack stands to
> avoid damage to the sound panel?
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)

[MBZ] Estate auction

[Dave M.]

The poor old Millers died and look what was found on the farm!

<http://coolcatcorp.com/millerauction/MillerAuction.html>

(may be old news for some of you, but I hadn't seen it...)


=)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Joe!

[Dave M.]

Ditto! Good to have you back in the fray, Joe.

=)

+dm

> --
> Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 10:54:24 -0600
> From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Joe!
>
>
> Welcome back Joe!
>
> We've missed ya!

[MBZ] S55 LWB on eBay

[Dave M.]

In case you need *lots* of rear leg room, and like to get places in a hurry...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4625188298

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update

[Dave M.]

By themselves, none. But they do allow  you to jack up the fuel
delivery (relatively) safely, without destroying the motor. Seems most
stock Bosch pumps can't deliver more than, say, 20-25% power gain over
stock, without modifying the pump via larger elements. So on an OM603,
that should take us from 148hp (stock) to something around 170-180hp
with stock pump, exhaust, and turbo. If you're willing to change the
intake, exhast, and send the pump to Myna Diesel, the sky is the
limt... the Finns have dyno charts showing 450hp from a stock
long-block 603.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 17:36:55 -0500
> From: "Trampas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update
>
>
> What kind of horse power boost does intercooling and/or water injection add?
>
>
> Trampas

Re: [MBZ] 124 - What to do when the subframe's down?

[Dave M.]

I'd seriously consider replacing most of the 5 links if the car is
over 15 years old and/or has >200kmi on it. Make sure the indy knows
to only tighten the bolts (for the ends of the 5 links) with the car
at normal ride height... the rubber bushings are supposed to be under
zero tension when the car is at rest.

Also - replace the diff mount bushings if they are not fairly recent!
All this stuff should be a lot easier with the subframe out of the
car...

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 09:32:27 -0800
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 124 - What to do when the subframe's down?
>
>
> My indy has my 124 today and is replacing the subframe mounts in an effort
> to cure my rear-end problems.  In the interest of saving on labor down the
> road, is there anything else I should have him do while he's in there?  I've
> heard vague talk of fuel lines, hard brake lines, and the fuel tank strainer
> all being easier to get at with the subframe down.  (I'm not having a
> problem with any of those that I know of, but I'm thinking in terms of
> long-term preventive maintenance since I intend to be driving this car on my
> deathbed, like Lt. Don.)
>
> Thanks,
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

[MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

I got to do some testing of intake air temps and EGT's on a recent
trip. Some details are posted here, along with a couple of photos of
my newly installed gauges:

http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475&page=2

Given the claims by some folks of major reductions in EGT with water
injection, I guess it's possible that I just haven't squirted enough
in there yet. So, after some baseline dragstrip runs (this weekend, I
hope) I'll be doubling the water volume (from a 5gph nozzle to 10gph)
to see if that makes a difference. I'm hoping that my stock manifolds
aren't responsible for the high EGT's... I've already got the exhaust
freed up post-turbo, and I was hoping to avoid custom headers (which
inevitably require cu$tom intake AND exhau$t at con$isderable
expen$e).

I'd much rather just get a nice intercooler setup, but alas the
prerequisite AMG front bumper remains elusive... still looking for one
at the moment.

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Light and relays

[Dave M.]

On most cars you can modify the bulb-out module (N7 on a W124) to
ignore the headlights, and still function for all the *other* bulbs.
It's pretty obvious when you lose a headlight anyway. I have my module
modified so it works normally with my headlight relays. On the W124 it
normally monitors low & high beam headlights, but does NOT monitor fog
lights. I haven't a clue what the W202 does.

The JC Whitney high-wattage bulbs are highly suspect and are very
likely to be cheap offshore junk. All bulbs (of a given wattage) are
NOT equal, even among well known brands. If you're serious about
seeing at night, stick with the proven top performers - usually
Philips and Osram (not Sylvania). I've go Philips Rally 100/90's in my
cars now and they're mind-boggling. Just picked up some of the new
Osram Hypers, which put out far more lumens per watt than other H4
bulbs, but haven't tried them yet.

For "good" bulbs, buy from Dan Stern, or Peter at .

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 22:37:19 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Light and relays
>
>
> <>
>
> My '95 C280s stock light bulbs were H4 60/55. So I installed 160/100s with
> relays and ran it that way for almost six years. Using relays will light the
> bulb out indicator, however. But not on the non-monitored high beam.
>
> BTW, you can buy hi-wattage bulbs all day long at JC Whitney. Which is where
> I got the 70W H7's for my C320s inner secondary high beam. Combined with the
> Bi-Xenon highs, it lights up the night.
>
> RLE
>

Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?

[Dave M.]

Joe signed off this list, too high a fluff-to-content level I think,
lol. He's still dieseling away with his 124.193 wagon though.

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 15:27:48 -0700
> From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?
>
>
> On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:03:49 -0800 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > IMO, the "latest & greatest" H4 bulbs are the new Osram Hypers.
>
> Thanks for the tip.
>
>
> > Joe Knight just picked up a set ...
>
> Haven't heard anything from him lately. Is he not on this list?
>
>
> Craig

Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?

[Dave M.]

IMO, the "latest & greatest" H4 bulbs are the new Osram Hypers. The
70/65 variant will put out substantially more light than stock 60/55
(despite the numbers looking awfully similar), and there should be no
need to mess with relays. The next step up is the 85/80 Hypers but I
don't think you'd want to use those without relays. They're not cheap,
but they are rated to last 2x-3x longer than most overwatt Rallye
bulbs. You can buy them from Peter:

http://www.mckeige.com/products-osram.php

They're not listed on his website, you need to email him for more
details. I just picked up a set for my VW, which has E-code lights but
no relays. Joe Knight just picked up a set for his E-code lights and
reported that he was definitely impressed with the difference from
stock bulbs.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:32:41 -0500
> From: Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?
>
>
> I finally got around to installing my Euro lights that I bought fom John
> M in Victoria! (Thanks again John) Boy is it nice to be able to see at
> night again! What a huge difference; I already knew it would be better
> as I have them on my W123 and had them on my W126 also.
>
> I was interested in going slightly overwattage and wanted to get some
> relays to put inline. Does anyone have a link to a write-up for wiring
> these?
>
> Also, what are the latest/greatest H4those Sylvania White star or
> something like that??
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeff Zedic
> Toronto
> 87 300TD

Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?

[Dave M.]

Correct. And from 1998-up, the SL320 was not sold in the USA, only the
SL500 and SL600. Overseas, the SL320 from approx 1999-up did indeed
get the M112 6-cyl, but that was never sold in the USA.

The M104 engine in the SL320 is a DOHC, inline-6, 24-valve engine. The
 90-93 300SL got the M104.981 engine.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 09:45:55 -0500
> From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?
>
>
> The SL320 ( 129.063 ) used the 104.991 engine which is an inline 6 produced
> from 1994 to 1997.
>
> James Zavesky

Re: [MBZ] Was 8500 X50 Radar Detector now My Problem

[Dave M.]

Ditto what Jim said. I bet the odo is also off ~25%. Sounds to me like
someoned changed the Euro kph speedo to a USA mph version, but ignored
the fact that the axle ratios are different. You can't order a drive
gear, the trannies all output the same signal. You have to match the
speedometer with the axle ratio. So if I'm right, you'll have to
figure out what axle ratio you have now, then figure out what USA
model used the same axle, and get a used speedo from that car. Or, get
a conversion box to go in between to adjust the 25% error.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:05:50 -0800
> From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Was 8500 X50 Radar Detector now My Problem
>
>
> > on Wednesday. My speedo is off by quite a bit, Like about 25%.
>
> How's the odometer?  Every time I've called our local speedo shop
> the _first_ thing they say to check is the odometer.  Does it track
> the mile markers?  If not, you've got a gearing problem.  If it
> tracks, then you have a calibration problem within the speedometer
> itself.  25% is a lot to be off via a gear.
>
> -- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans

[Dave M.]

Their 500E prices were a bit low. Most 500E's are in the $12-$17k
range with average miles (80-120k). Not much goes cheaper than that
unless it's salvage or has really high miles. Clean low miles examples
are in the $20-25k range. There's not much over $30k except garage
queens and exotica like that RENNtech Fittipaldi car (asking $65k).
There is one for sale in SoCal with 5kmi (not a typo) that is,
literally, showroom new. He turned down offers (from serious
collectors) in the $80-$90k range, think he wants approx $100k. (I
know this is nearly incomrehensible to a group that lives & breathes
$500 W123's, but yes there are people out there willing to pay those
amounts.)

The A124 (cabriolet, 124.066) is priced very close to the 500E
(124.036)... in the same $10-$25k range. These two 124's are, IMO, the
highest valued 124's in the USA. (Outside the US there were other
exotic models and I have no clue what those values are. The E60
Limited is my dream car... thought only a dozen were built worldwide
though.)

:-)

-dm


> --
> Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 08:59:40 -0800
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans
>
>
> And they said $20K for a 500E?  I thought those things were going for $50K
> now?

Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?

[Dave M.]

The SL320  / 300SL will have the M104 engine... nice motor, it has the
usual issues with head gaskets like most of the M104's, don't think
there's anything else major to worry about. The SL500 / 500SL will
have the M119 engine, which is a real powerhouse... no major problems
there, but usually due for a timing chain & rails by 150k (and it's
not as easy or cheap to do as our old diesels). The M119 is a fairly
expensive engine to maintain, though... not that the M104 is cheap,
but the M119 is a notch above. The 500SL had mechanical (KE?)
injection from 90-92 and then bumped up to the electronic LH injection
starting in 1993, IIRC.

If your wife doesn't care about power (and you don't either), I'd
stick with the SL320. If one of you wants a *fast* car, get the SL500.
Drive both and let us know how you like them! I'd love a late R129
SL500 'Silver Arrow' edition with the AMG Sport package. Mmmm.

:-)

-Dave M.


> --
> Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 06:05:28 -0500
> From: "Bob DuPuy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?
>
>
> I like the 300SL from around 93. Are there any known problems with
> this car, or that engine? There is not a huge price difference now
> between the 300 and the 500 is the 500 engine more troublesome?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob DuPuy

[MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

The March edition of Motor Trend Classic has a neat article on some
vintage Mercedes "supersedans"... namely:

1) 1971 300SEL 6.3
2) 1978 450SEL 6.9
3) 1992 500E

It's 8 pages long with some pretty sweet photos and specs on all 3
models. The PDF is available here - 10MB download. Enjoy!

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/MT_Supersedans_03-2006.pdf


:-)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 262kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II

[Dave M.]

Alex,

It's not obvious in the photos, but the old mounts are also metal and
rubber. The new mounts that I got are the Sportline rear and late W124
front, which are a slightly different design than the early fronts (I
just liked the newer version better, and they fit all 124's.) The main
thing to notice is how the subframe sags on the old, cracked mounts.
With the new mounts, almost no sagging... the subframe is locked much
more tightly to the body.

I can tell you that replacing the mounts is not fun, even with the
proper tools, at least with the subframe in the car. If the subframe
was removed, it would be much easier. If you intend to rebuild the
subframe yourself by changing all the links & mounts, I'd pull the
whole thing out. I intend to do that when I fix mine (probably next
winter).

Here's a procedure showing a DIY forward bushing swap:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf
(6MB PDF file with lots of pretty pictures)

:-)

-Dave M.



> --
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:31:18 -0800
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II
>
>
> Thanks, Dave.  Those new mounts are obviously quite a different design than
> the old ones---the old ones seem to be solid rubber while the new ones are
> reinforced with metal, is that right?  Do you have any idea when the switch
> occurred?
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper
>
> On 3/22/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Alex,
> >
> > I'm not sure I can help much... but I do have photos of old vs. new
> > subframe mounts. Check them out here, and compare to what's in yur car
> > now:
> >
> > http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/
> >
> > :)
> >
> > -dm

Re: [MBZ] Is M-1 0W-30 approved MB oil?

[Dave M.]

Short answer: NO.

Long answer: MB approved oils are xW-40 or xW-50. Anything xW-30 is
too thin, no matter what silly "rating" is on the bottle, or what
Mobil claims on the label. Also, the current M-1 Truck & SUV is NOT
approved, as it is 5W-30, and therefore too thin. You want the new M-1
Turbo Diesel Truck variety, which is 5W-40.

Stick with either the 5W-40 or 15W-50 if you use Mobil-1.

-dm


> --
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 08:35:29 -0600
> From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Is M-1 0W-30 approved MB oil?
>
>
> I seem to remember some folks using "approved" 0-W-30 back when the other
> choice was 15-W-50. I am using the Truck/SUV at the moment (approved).
>
> On 3/22/06, W. Lasher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > According to Mobile web site M-1 0W-30
> > is an approved Diesel oil?is it approved for MB's?
> > What are the mew codes for Diesel oil?
> > (ie: CF)   I'm just about ready to go back to Delo 400 with all this
> > confusion.
> > At least I can get it through Costco
> > Walt Lasher
> > Seattle
> > 1992  W-140 S350

Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II

[Dave M.]

Alex,

I'm not sure I can help much... but I do have photos of old vs. new
subframe mounts. Check them out here, and compare to what's in yur car
now:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:19:47 -0800
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II
>
>
> Listers may perhaps recall that a few months back I complained about poor
> traction and rear wheel hop over bumps in my '87 300D.  I had my indy
> replace the rear shocks, which were original, and the problem went away for
> a while.  Now it's back.
>
> My indy has looked at the suspension closely and said that the only worn
> part worth replacing was the thrust arms, which he did a few days ago.  He
> thought the subframe mounts might stand replacement if they are original,
> but was hesitant to do that unless it's the only option left.
>
> The symptoms are different now, but the car still handles strangely.  Before
> replacing the thrust arms, the whole rear end of the car would bounce in one
> direction or the other over any bump.  Now the car tracks straight over
> bumps that both rear wheels hit at the same time (like bridge expansion
> joints), but still bounces sideways when one wheel at a time hits something
> smaller (like a manhole cover or pothole).  The symptoms are more pronounced
> the faster I'm going when I hit the bump.
>
> Today I had time to put the car up on ramps and look at the rear suspension
> myself.  I pried at all the links with a big screwdriver, looking for
> obvious signs of looseness or free play. The torque struts and camber arms
> seem to move more easily at the wheel carrier end than do the new thrust
> arms or any of the other links, but I obviously don't have a brand-new 124
> to compare to, so I'm not sure what anything in the suspension is supposed
> to feel like.  Should the mounts be hard, like a pencil eraser, or soft and
> springy?  Do they get hard and crack with age, or do they soften and
> compress more easily under load?  The car passes the "jack up one side and
> try to move the wheel around" test---but is there any similar way to detect
> a more subtle failure of the links?
>
> Any suggestions on what I should do next to diagnose the handling problem?
> Should I just replace all the rear links on the assumption that they are all
> pretty old?  How about the subframe mounts---is there any way to tell if
> they are the culprit before shelling out for R & R of the subframe?  (I
> realize I could buy all this stuff from Rusty and DIY for much less, but I
> don't have the time or facilities right now, and I don't mind letting my
> indy get his percentage once in a while for stuff that I can't do.)
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector

[Dave M.]

Many people seem to think that having a radar detector somehow makes
them immune to tickets. If you think this way, (1) you'll end up
getting tickets, and (2) your radar detector becomes a "ticket
announcer". It still requires a lot of common sense and
reasonable/prudent speeds. You can't set the cruise on 90 in a 65 zone
and sit back and relax, wait for a 'bep' and then casually slow
down, expecting to cruise past the nice officer at 64. Don't work that
way.

Last ticket I got was 4 years ago, before I got my V-1... and that
ticket also taught me that my speedometer was 4% slow (which I later
verified with a GPS - D'OH!!). I now know exactly how far off each of
my speedometers are... most are within 1-3% though. A little
edumacation goes a long way.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 16:54:20 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector
>
>
> Apparently looks don't mean much and I did have a Escort Passport and sold it 
> after getting a ticket while on the interstate.

Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603

[Dave M.]

Marshall, you'll get no argument from me on that! I agree completely.
Wy too much work (and expense!) to shoehorn a 603 into a W201. I
once saw a V8 (M117, I believe) stuffed into a W201 as well. Pure
insanity.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:50:05 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603
>
>
> Slipping a 6 cylinder engine into a 201 chassis requires redesigning the
> chassis and then fabricating it. Sure it can be done, but it won't be
> cheap or easy. It would make a LOT more sense to slip a 603/606 engine
> into a chassis that it will fit into - a 124.
>
> Marshall

Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603

[Dave M.]

Never say never... or in this case, "no WAY"... because some lunatic
out there will prove you wrong! In this case, it's the Crazy Finns.
Look closely at the brief under-hood shots of these W201's. Major
surgery was required, this is not even close to a drop-in swap:

<http://www.w124performance.com/movies/Mercedes/SuperTurbos/dieselboost_demo.mov>
(14MB download)

I still get chills up my spine whenever I watch that. Drol! I have
a hard time comprehending what it must be like to drive a W201 with a
manual tranny and 450bhp under the bonnet. I'm sure it's quite
different than my heavy, pokey W124 with a mere 340hp and a slushbox.

:-)

-Dave M.




> --
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:00:25 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603
>
> OK Don wrote:
> > Now here's a car that's just drying for a 603 engine and intercooler --
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/nsxtk
>
> Ain't NO way a 603 will fit. Even the 602 was tight.
>
> Marshall

[MBZ] BIG pile of parts for sale

[Dave M.]

FYI... no affiliation, etc... just passing it along:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8049348099

This has Kaleb written all over it, lol!

=)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector

[Dave M.]

Bah. Get a Valentine-1.

http://www.valentine1.com/

:)

-dm



> --
> Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 15:22:25 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector
>
>
> This is always advertised in the Star. Looks good. Anybody here have
> feedback on it?
>
>  http://www.escortradar.com/x50.htm
>
>  Thanks,
>
>  Chris

Re: [MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling)

[Dave M.]

Not Ohio plates, Idaho plates. The owner has it registered in Idaho.
It's being sold on consignment by Ruf Porsche in Dallas. The owner of
the 500E allegedly also owns a Ruf Yellow Bird. For those wondering
what Ruf is (other than what your dog says), click here:

http://www.fast-autos.com/rufcenter.html


:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:04:28 -0500
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling)
>
>
> if it's in texas, why does it have Ohio plates on it?
>
> > On 3/20/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> > <http://rufautocentre.com/usedcars/car024.asp>

[MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling)

[Dave M.]

OK... anyone nearby who could take a peek at this car and shoot as
many pics as possible of it inside, outside, and underneath? This is
uber-rare Mercedes exotica, rumored to be the fabled Fittipaldi 500E.
It's located at RUF, home of the Yellow Bird. The asking price is
$65k, not anything I could ever buy, but I would LOVE to see more
detailed photos of all the upgrades! Anyway, there's a few teaser
shots and a list of the goodies installed at this link:

<http://rufautocentre.com/usedcars/car024.asp>

I bet the upgrades were in the $60-80k range, in addition to the cost
of the car. The motor alone would be about $40k... RENNtech is quite
proud of their work and they charge accordingly! I've never seen a
6.0L rated at 465hp... most of their 6.0's are in the 420-440 range.
Must be the custom cams, porting, and titanium rods... drol.

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new

[Dave M.]

Hi Kevin,

Asking $125/obo with free shipping in the USA. Photos are posted here:

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=147891

A pair of OE lenses will be on the wrong side of $200, last time I checked...


:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:44:06 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new
>
>
> How much Dave? I have TYC lights on my wagon. (Wanted to get Hellas or
> Bosch, but the financial situation at the time wouldn't support it.)
>
> ...Kevin
> 87 300TD
>
> Dave M. said:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I found a pair of new lenses floating around my shop that I don't
> > need. They are TYC brand, in original boxes, and will fit all Euro
> > lights. They're the 1994/95 style but will fit 86-95 cars. No, they
> > won't fit DOT lights. They look like this (this is an old photo of my
> > car with a set if lights that are now gone):
> >
> > <http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/Standard_Hella_Euro.jpg>
> >
> > You guys have first crack at them, next they're posted on the forums,
> > then off to eBay...
> >
> > :-)
> >
> > --
> > Dave M.
> > Boise, ID
> > 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
> > 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Dave M.]

Nope... only Casey has an intercooled 603 on this list, AFAIK. I'm
experimenting with increasing power without an intercooler for now
(watching intake air and exhaust gast temp gauges closely). Soon's I
find me an AMG front bumper to hide a Casey-style intercooler, though,
look out!

:-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:30:48 -0600
> From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
> Don't you have an intercooler in it?
>
> On 3/19/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You think a 2.5 is fast? You should try my 87 300D... with the
> > full-load screw turned up a half turn, it now outruns my stock 1986
> > 300E at the dragstrip. Not by much, but it's got a better ET. The 300E
> > will slowly pull away over 90mph, though. Another half-turn should
> > cure that, heh-heh.
> >
> > Oh yeah - and that's despite the diesel's 2.65 axle, while the 300E
> > enjoys the advantage of a 3.07!
> >
> > :)
> >
> > -dm

Re: [MBZ] epc?

[Dave M.]

Sunil,

That first number appears to be an accessory part number, which
normally start with 'B' and have 8 digits following. Haven't seen one
with a BQ and 7 digits, but that number does show up on the price list
as sheepskin seat covers (unknown fitment), list price of $259 as of
last May.

The other number is not an MB number. Most accessory numbers are not
searchable in the EPC and most are not in the EPC at all. The EPC is
intended for replacement parts, not accessories.

:)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:58:40 -0500
> From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] epc?
>
>
> how do i get the epc?  also, let's say I'm staring at a Mercedes parts box.
> Where is the part number for the contents on the label?
>
> Might it be "BQ 6 91 0212" or "83637690-560"?
>
> Anyone with the EPC, could you run those and tell me what comes up?
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.

Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel

[Dave M.]

You think a 2.5 is fast? You should try my 87 300D... with the
full-load screw turned up a half turn, it now outruns my stock 1986
300E at the dragstrip. Not by much, but it's got a better ET. The 300E
will slowly pull away over 90mph, though. Another half-turn should
cure that, heh-heh.

Oh yeah - and that's despite the diesel's 2.65 axle, while the 300E
enjoys the advantage of a 3.07!

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:06:54 -0500
> From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
>
>
> I am really wanting to drive the 87 TD.  I haven't found anyone with one
> around here yet.  I think the 2.5 is fast.  Anyone have one in RI or MA?
> I'd like to see one.

[MBZ] New GL class

[Dave M.]

OK, the number of new models is starting to get ridiculous... "GL"
class? Guess MB felt the "need" to compete with Surburbans, Escalades,
and Ford Excessives:

(As a non-SUV owner, I did get a chuckle out of the the 'selfish
rotters' comment, lol...)


==
My other car is a plane

Mercedes' new SUV couldn't come at a worse time. Can consumption be
more conspicuous?
DAN NEIL, Automotive critic
March 15, 2006

THERE'S something peculiarly egregious, something antagonizing about
the 2007 Mercedes-Benz GL, the company's new full-size, 15-mpg
sport-utility vehicle, which might be described as a Cadillac Escalade
with a hankering for Czechoslovakia. For one thing, it goes to show
that, even though the full-size SUV market has fallen off dramatically
in the last year, there are still sufficient numbers of selfish
rotters out there to constitute an appealing market segment.

Mercedes-Benz executives offer this wholly meritless defense: Many of
its customers leave the brand because the company does not offer a
full-size SUV that meets their needs, which is to say, a
seven-passenger, 17-foot 4x4 with a 9,300-pound towing capacity. At
this point in the presentation in Napa Valley last week, execs showed
slides of the GL pulling a 30-foot boat. So there you have it:
Mercedes' audience of water-skiing polygamists is underserved.

Needs? Did the man say needs? OK, then. I propose needs testing for
the purchase of such a vehicle. You must have a Chris-Craft and three
or more school-age children in the yard to qualify. Your vehicle must
do double-duty as, um, a bookmobile.

Need has very little to do with it. This segment is about want, naked
and unquenchable, I-got-mine-you-get-bent appetite. It's well
established that the vast majority of these vehicles never touch
gravel, never carry more than a couple of people, and never tow
anything heavier than the weight of their owner's childhood traumas.

Most people who buy the GL won't know a Class IV hitch from a Mark 48
torpedo. And I, for one, am not going to congratulate some Bel-Air
singleton for his wise vehicle purchase when it is so patently
purblind and morally retrograde.

(snip)


Full story posted here (also on LA Times website, if you subscribe):
http://www.500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2976


=)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Tire Sizes

[Dave M.]

Alex pointed out somthing important that had been missed in prior
posts. On the ORIGINAL wheel size (15x6.5), the 195/65 tire is
optimal, as Marshall and others said. A plus-one fitment isn't bad if
you really want to do that (205/60).

Anything else really requires a larger WHEEL... either wider, or
larger diameter, or both. For any given wheel size, there is really
only one optimum tire size, with maybe a second or third size that's
acceptable. If you stick with what MB mounts from the factory you're
usually ahead of the game.

I've got W203 Sport wheels on my car (17x7.5) with the factory tire
size (225/45/17) and they work great. Extremely precise handling, but
a little firmer than stock, naturally. Note that the 225/55/16 tires
on the 500E were mounted on 16x8.0 wheels (and the 500E had flared
fenders to swallow the larger setup.)

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 20:02:22 -0800
> From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire Sizes
>
>
> I'm going to dissent here.  I have 205/60-15s on my 124 and am fixing to go
> to 215/55-16s (on lightweight CLK wheels).  I think the wider the better (as
> long as they don't rub or stick out, of course).  There's more steering
> effort at low speeds, but also more controllability at high speeds.  There's
> a reason the factory put fatter tires on the 500E!
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
> '93 Isuzu Trooper

[MBZ] Good deal on W203 C7 Sport wheels

[Dave M.]

Not a bad deal... these are a perfect fitment on a W124:
http://www.mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=140699


I've got those exact wheels on my 1987 300D, with 225/45/17 tires.
They are 17x7.5 ET37. Here's a photo of them on my car:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/cars/87_300D_blue/right.jpg


I like them a lot... they're very easy to keep clean, too!

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Oil question AGAIN

[Dave M.]

Hi Walt,

Join the club... the 5-qt jug of 5W-40 has been AWOL for a couple of
months now. Rumor is that it may re-appear in another few months but
I'm not holding my breath. About the 0W-40 stuff, I'm personally NOT a
fan of it... heard some anecdotes that were enough to scare me away
from using it, period.

You should be able to find 5W-40 in the quart bottles at your FLAPS.
There's also a new 10W-40 'Extended Performance' variant that should
be pretty good, but is probably priced higher. Ditto for the 15W-50
'EP'.

My local Wal-Marts have only xW-30 and thinner Mobil-1 weights...
nothing xW-40 or xW-50 at all.

:-(

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 17:53:29 -0800
> From: "W. Lasher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Oil question AGAIN
>
>
> I?m having trouble finding Mobile 1 Truck and SUV 5-W-40 in the Gal. jugs.
> Wal-Mart here just carries 5-W-30 (is this a Diesel oil?).
> I did find a 0-W-40 but isn?t that too much of a spread?
>
> Walt Lasher
> Seattle
> 92? W140 S350 Diesel

Re: [MBZ] Uh Oh!

[Dave M.]

Hi Michael,

A quick peek at the EPC shows that there is really only one part
number for springs for your car. It would help if you specified which
chassis... there was a 280SE W108, W111, and W116 (and maybe more).
The free length of the spring as measured when not installed will NOT
be the same as the length measured when the spring is installed on the
car. So, you can't really compare without removing the spring. What
you can do is look at the bottom coil, there should be a part number
stamped into the spring itself. We can check that against the EPC and
determine if you have the correct springs installed in the car. I'm
pretty sure the front & rear springs would not be interchangeable,
unless they are the same diameter, which would be unusual.

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 00:46:29 -0800 (PST)
> From: michael smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Uh Oh!
>
>
>  A few months ago I had new coil springs installed on my 78 280SE
> front and rear...I am thinking the mechanic accidentally put the
> front on the back and vice versa...the front was dramatically lower
> than the front and I had an arguement with the supplier...since I
> waited more than 30 days before installing them he left me high and
> dry...so I had spring lifts installed to prop up the front and she
> looks normal...but the handling is a little off.  So tonight I was
> looking on Ebay and noticed a pair of rear springs listed, the
> description claimed they are 15" tall, and oddly enough the last
> time I had the car up in the air I ran a tape measure inside the
> coil and sure enough it was 15"...the fronts should be 18"...guess I
> have to have the car lifted again and measure the rear...
>
> Any experiences with changing springs?
>
>
> Michael in not so sunny San Diego

Re: [MBZ] NON voyage! AND leaking coolant @ head gasket

[Dave M.]

Hi Dennis,

Oil in the intake manifold & plumbing is basically normal on that
engine, as long as oil consumption is normal. It's either from the
turbo seals or excess crankcase vapors, but it's really not something
to lose sleep over. My car has this even with a new head & valve
seals, so it's definitely not related to valve guides.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 14:23:41 -0800
> From: "Woodlandtaylors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] NON voyage! AND leaking coolant @ head gasket
>
>
> Dave,
>
> Do you know anything about the head gasket on the six banger 3.0 liter gas
> engine? I have one with great compression runs fine but oil gets into the
> inlet manifold and I'm not convinced its all valve guide wear.
>
> Dennis T

Re: [MBZ] NON voyage! AND leaking coolant @ head gasket

[Dave M.]

The loosen & retorque tricke worked OK on my old VW diesel, of course
that only has 10 head bolts total, lol. And it only helped the issue -
didn't cure it entirely.

Anyway, the OM603 head bolts (al 27 of them, IIRC) are a
torque-to-yield type. Loosen about 3/4 to 1 turn in reverse pattern,
torque to 15Nm through pattern,  then torque to 35Nm,  turn 90
degrees, wait 10 minutes, turn a final 90 degrees. I've never heard of
this being done on an OM603 but if you really REALLY don't want to
pull the head, it may not hurt to attempt it.

FYI, the head gaskets were revised 5 times, one of the revisions was
to provide a better seal at the coolant passage behind cyl #6, where
your leak is. I'd pull the head & replace the gasket. Be prepared for
unexpected, unpleasant surprises (read: cracks) if the head is a #14.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 14:33:00 -0600
> From: "Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] NON voyage! AND leaking coolant @ head gasket
>
> > How about trying the old - "loosen and re-torque" the head bolts
> > trick? Could it hurt anything?
>
> I tried that with my BMW (gasp, sacrilege!) that I owned years ago. BIG
> MISTAKE. If anything, I would check the torque with an accurate torque
> wrench. More than likely it is time for a head gasket, or worse. Did it get
> overheated? SWMBO may have overheated it and *forgot* to tell you
> Rick Knoble
> '85 300 CD
> '87 190 DT

Re: [MBZ] w124 diesel value

[Dave M.]

If you do some searching for these nationwide, typical asking price is
between $7-$12k. So, buying one for $5k and spending a bit on repairs
wouldn't be unexpected. If it's clean and runs well, $5k is a really
good deal, IMO.

If anyone finds a 90-93 W124 diesel for sale - with ASD and heated
seats - I'm interested. Even better if it's somewhere on the west
coast. For some reason almost all of them are on the east coast, d'oh.

=)

-dm

> --
> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 18:07:22 -0600
> From: "Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] w124 diesel value
>
>
>
> > I paid $5000 for my 1992 300D.  286Kmi, new transmission at 200K, new
> > timing chain, valve job, and head gasket at 150Kmi.  New 500E headlights
> > and motor mounts just before I bought it, and nearly complete records
> > from both owners.
>
> That is kinda scary. This is a 1992 300D with 159K miles. I surely don't
> want to drop 5 grand and then have to put in a head gasket, timing chain
> ect.
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Knoble

[MBZ] New ad for S-class: 8 airbags

[Dave M.]

Click link below, then scroll down...

http://www.brandinfection.com/ads/582/99/Mercedes-8-Airbags

My poor W124 only has two.

=(

Re: [MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring

[Dave M.]

Pretty sure Jim Friesen sells these.  Jim, you out there?

Otherwise, you'd need to hit up a Bosch shop. Also, opening up the
ALDA can be a pain, sometimes the four Phillips screws can be hard to
get out. And you may need to use some sealer on the outer edge of the
big O-ring that seals the two halves of the ALDA. I used Yamabond, but
something similar would work fine.

:)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 11:49:25 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] ALDA Shaft seal and O-ring
>
>
> Would anyone know where I can get a replacement  shaft seal and O-ring for
> the ALDA?
>
> Thanks

[MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

I found a pair of new lenses floating around my shop that I don't
need. They are TYC brand, in original boxes, and will fit all Euro
lights. They're the 1994/95 style but will fit 86-95 cars. No, they
won't fit DOT lights. They look like this (this is an old photo of my
car with a set if lights that are now gone):

<http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/Standard_Hella_Euro.jpg>

You guys have first crack at them, next they're posted on the forums,
then off to eBay...

:-)

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] Fan clutch - OM603 vs. M103?

[Dave M.]

Hi all,

Someone over on MBShop forum just said they successfully used an M103
fan clutch (which is cheap & easily available) on to an OM603 (which
uses a more expensive clutch). I never even thought of this before.
Anyone know what the functional difference is between the two, if any?
Read for yourself here (near the end):

http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=146894

Looking at photos of each on Rusty's website, all I see is the 300E
fan has narrower blades, and the 300D/SDL fan has wider blades. I
wonder how that affects airflow, noise, etc, etc...

:-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

[Dave M.]

A couple of general comments on this thread:

1) Putting on two snow tires - meaning real snows, with the snowflake
on the mountain symbol (not "M+S" rated tires, which means NOTHING)...
is half useless. You need FOUR snow tires. You do expect to steer,
and/or stop, right? A set of snows usually last for many seasons. A
couple hundred bucks, spread out over a few years, is way cheaper
than wrecking your car, or getting stranded somewhere.

2) Anyone who thinks "all season" tires work great in snow or ice
either does not live in real ice or snow country, or has never driven
a car with four real snow tires (again, an M+S rating does not mean
"snow tire").


(flame suit on)

Dave M.
(Four studded Kumhos KW-11's on the VW, studless Kumhos on the 300E)


> --
> Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 08:47:14 -0500
> From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions
>
>
> Dwight said:
>
> "The problem now is that the studs are worn
> down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
> throwing away good tires."
>
> Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do
> the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to bite.
> Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet roads
> until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My FAVORITE
> Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were "broken
> in".
>
>  I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215
> aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact that
> you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig in.
> Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very fast
> on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping and
> soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.
>
> My $.02, Mike

[MBZ] OT: Look, Ma! No mast!

[Dave M.]

This is too cool. Reminds me of Kevin Costner's little trick in
'Waterworld'. I wonder how it would work on a 240D?

http://www.bookofjoe.com/2005/09/skysail_the_kit.html

;-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

[MBZ] OT: 1988 Caprice Classic half track/ice fishing vehicle

[Dave M.]

Bummer Kaleb didn't spot this before the auction closed:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4617762659


=)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

Re: [MBZ] damn, this went cheap

[Dave M.]

Cheap, schmeep! You still got 36 hours to get your bid in! Go for it,
Kaleb... too far away for me. Why aren't there any of these in the
Pacific Northwest?

:)

-dm

> --
> Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 21:32:10 -0600
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] damn, this went cheap
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4618061700

Re: [MBZ] *sigh*

[Dave M.]

Huh? I wouldn't touch a 124 or 201 without the factory service manual,
or at least the Haynes. Otherwise you could end up breaking things.

;-)

-dm

> --
> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 07:56:00 -0800 (PST)
> From: Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re:
> [MBZ] *sigh*
>
>
> Uhh, 123 door panels pry off, 201 door panels slide up. Trust me on this 
> one...
>  Also 123 door panels are plastic so you can get away with some rough
> handling, 201 panels are pressboard and quite fragile I'm finding.
>  I was not tickled with how annoying the interior door handle was to figure
> out. I should probably get the CD for this car, the Haynes manual was
> moderately helpful on the 240D the other day...
>
>  -Curt

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Alarm System

[Dave M.]

Just disable the bloody thing. It does basically no good anyway.
(Think about it- when was the last time you heard a car alarm - ANY
car alarm - and rushed out to go see what was the matter?) Find the
black box labaled "Becker" and unplug all connectors. On a W124, it's
located under the passenger's feet against the firwall, next to the
red SRS connector. I'm not sure where it is on a W126 but I bet Kleb
or someone else can edify us.

If you really want to diagnose & fix it, I'd start by replacing the
switch contacts on the driver's lock cylinder. (yes, the switch is
available separately, no you don't need a whole new lock, like I had
been told many moons ago...)

=)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 08:23:53 -0600
> From: "Roger Conlon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 300SDL Alarm System
>
>
> Last night I changed a broken accelerator pedal on my 87 300SDL.
> All I did was remove the two floor mats, then replaced the pedal.
>
> Now this morning went out to warm up the car for the wife, open the
> drivers side car door and the alarm starts going off, nothing I did with the
> master key with red dot would help.
>
> Locked unlocked the car, started and shut it off, lock an unlocked the alarm
> was still sounding or would start again.
> Not much help reading the owners manual.
>
> Is there a wire or switch I could have knocked off putting the floor mats
> in? I started  the car after replacing the pedal an move the car and it was
> fine. Any suggestions?
>
> Roger

Re: [MBZ] 124 8 hole wheels

[Dave M.]

The standard 8-hole wheels (15 x 6.5) for a W124 should be pretty easy
to locate either new or used, and shouldn't be that expensive, either.
Call Potomac German Auto (PGA) for a price on used wheels, Rusty for
new OE, or try Tire Rack for new aftermarket. Caution: The 1995 wheels
are brushed aluminum finish with clearcoat, the previous (93-94 I
think?) are painted silver color. Minor difference, but noticeable if
you have one of each on the same side of the car, lol!

BTW - I'd avoid Adsit like the plague. There are a bazillion horror
stories about those clowns on most Mercedes web forums. Buy new stuff
from Rusty, and for one-stop shopping for used parts, PGA is the way
to go.

:-)

-Dave M.


> --
> Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2006 22:22:18 -0500
> From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 8 hole wheels
>
> "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> >
> > better dig deep in the wallet
> >
>
> Good thing the kid's paying for it, eh?
> I suppose I could sell him a couple of the 5 hole rims off my 2.3-16:

Re: [MBZ] R-12 Freon

[Dave M.]

Wilton,

First, I think you are doing the wise thing by sticking with R-12...
I'm a strong proponent of fixig & recharging R-12 systems, and NEVER
converting to R-134a (or anything else that won't work with mineral
oil.)

Anyway, what I would recommend is getting your EPA certification
online, cost is under $20. Then buy a few cans of R-12 off eBay, or
wherever else you can find it cheap. Pretty sure 12oz cans are still
selling for ~$20/ea on eBay. I think it will take a bit over 3 cans to
fully charge an empty W124 system. Maybe 3 cans would be enough to
give you 90%+ charge so you don't need to tap into a fourth, lol.

You can find 30lb tanks for $400-$500, but there's always a risk that
it's not virgin R-12. I'd be really careful buying one of these unless
it's a local seller where you can personally inspect the tank before
buying, to make sure the factory seal is intact.

Worst case, convert to an alternative refrigerant that works with
mineral oil, like AutoFrost. The drawback to these is you can't top
off... not a big deal if your system is leak free.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2006 11:34:37 -0500
> From: "wilton strickland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] R-12 Freon
>
>
> Otherwise showroom 87 300D (124) needs Freon.  Refridg tech can't find
> locally small quantity R-12 needed.  Plenty 30 lb. tnks available @ $800.
> Looking for 3 or 4 lbs.  Why so much?  Hopefully, a little resrerve.
> May need to go to 134A.  Any tips?
>
> Wilton

Re: [MBZ] My Car (And what it going on with Mobil 1)

[Dave M.]

I do. The Shell stuff is a cheap Group III base stock. It's better
than dino oil, but nowhere near as good as Mobil-1 or Amsoil (which
are Group IV/V base stocks). The Rotella Syn is fine if you change it
at 3-5k like regular dino... I would not attempt extended drains with
it.

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 00:13:44 -0500
> From: "James Jetton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] My Car (And what it going on with Mobil 1)
>
>
> Mobil 1 15-50 is almost impossible to find in this area, I did find Shell 
> Rotella
> T synthetic 5w-40 for 14.32 a jug.  Anyone have anything negative to say
> about shell synthetic?
>
>
> James Jetton
> 1987 300 SDL 138k

Re: [MBZ] MY CAR (and what is going on with Mobil 1)

[Dave M.]

Yes, your indy is nuts. The 5W-40 weight is basically identical to
Delvac-1, arguable the best diesel synthetic on the market, period.
However, 15W-50 is not too thick, and if that makes you both happier,
it would be a fine second choice. There is also a new 10W-40 variety
that might be a good compromise. I'm waiting to see which if these
three, if ANY, finally appear at Wal-Mart

Kaleb - sheesh, where the hell have you BEEN? We've had a number of
threads on the T&S 5W-30 topic in the past 2 weeks. Short answer -
they are renaming 5W-40 (what we want) to "Turbo Diesel Truck", and
calling the 5W-30 "Truck and SUV". VERY confusing. I have not seen the
5W-40 on the shelf, at any store, as of yet. I'm still looking.

For everyone else, yeah, Delvac-1 would be preferable, the deterrent
there is cost, and it can be hard to find locally. Yeah, I know you
can buy it via the internet, but with S&H costs it ends up being close
to $30 per gallon (or $37.50 for 5 quarts, to compare to the Wal-Mart
jugs). And at that price, we can buy Amsoil from Johnny Bee a lot
cheaper!

:)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 17:29:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] MY CAR (and what is going on with Mobil 1)
>
>
> My Indy (who uses all M1 products) INSISTS that T&SUV/delvac  1/turbo
> diesel truck is too thin for my car in MO, even in winter since  it does not
> get THAT cold. Is he just nuts?
>
>  ON THE OTHER HAND, is M1 15W-50 TOO THICK to use in Western
> Missouri winter, wearing out my engine further at start up?
>
>  I do not have a leaking oil problem (I did until about 10,000 miles of M1 
> 15W-50).
>
>  Thoughts o' wise men?
>
>  Chris

Re: [MBZ] SWMBO translation (was: sort of MB related)

[Dave M.]

Mike will have to translate SWMBPP for us, but I can help with the other one:

FLAPS = Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. (aka 'McParts').

=)

+dm™

> --
> Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 09:39:44 -0500
> From: John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] SWMBO translation (was: sort of MB related)
>
>
> On Mar 2, 2006, at 9:23 AM, Mike Canfield wrote:
>
> > If you make sure SWMBO is SWMBPP instead she will walk around with
> > a smile on her face all day and kinda ignore all the stupid stuff we guys 
> > do.
> >
> > Mike
>
>
>OK what does that translate to? How about FLAPS? I'll come up with
> some more as I read e-mail today. why abbreviate everything? I don't
> think use of bandwidth is a good excuse these days and wife has less
> letters than SWMBO. So what gives?
>
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am