Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????- UPDATE

2013-08-12 Thread G Mann
A quick tip:
If you have access to a metal lathe, or someone who does, take the broken
bolt to the lathe and drill a pilot hole through the head and the body of
the broken section of the bolt.
Use your best judgement as to the size of the pilot drill hole, doesn't
have to be large but should be large enough to not break the drill. Then
use the broken bolt as a drill guide to drill the exact center of the
remaining half of the bolt still in the crankshaft.

You will save a lot of effort by having a pilot hole in the broken part
still in the shaft. Second drill a little larger, etc until you have the
size you need to use the broken bolt extractor.

With the bore hole well located in the center, the extractor will work much
better and your chance of success will greatly increase.

I also suggest the use of Left turn drill bits for the last two or three
size increases in the pilot hole.. sometimes the drill pressure will walk
the broken part right out as you drill it.

All the best success.

Grant...

On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 7:06 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 Find out if it is the same bolt as a 79 300cd non-turbo.  If it is I have
 one.

 Mike
 On Aug 12, 2013 9:56 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Good news!  We pulled the pulleys and there appears to be no damage to
 the
  crankshaft.  The 2 keyways are semicircular, the keys are little
 cylinders
  about 9mm in diameter and about 10-12 mm long.  I've never seen other
 than
  rectangular keys before.  Apparently once the Belleville washers are
 gone
  they just fall out, causing slippage of the pulleys (but saving the
  keyways
  on the crank and pulley).  The bolt remains will have to be drilled to
 be
  pulled.  We may be able to get this done on my boy's next day off if I
 can
  source a new bolt locally.
 
  Thanks again for all the help!!!
 
  Greg
 
 
  Get a OE bolt.  You want  the real thing.  It is a stretch bolt.  You can
  by one from a junkyard, someone on the list may have one for free, or try
   Potomac German, or one of the many vendors in the Star. A quick search
 for
  a crankshaft or engine block on car-part.com will give you a long list
 of
  junkyards that have the engine.  Then you can call them and ask if they
  will sell you a crank bolt.  As last resorts, you can contact a
 stealership
  or the classic center.
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????- UPDATE

2013-08-12 Thread Rick Knoble
On Aug 12, 2013, at 10:50 PM, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 I also suggest the use of Left turn drill bits for the last two or three
 size increases in the pilot hole.. sometimes the drill pressure will walk
 the broken part right out as you drill it.


What he said. Also, I have had pretty good success using a spring loaded center 
punch to work out broken bolts. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????- UPDATE

2013-08-12 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Thanks Grant:

I had already decided to make a bushing using my MicroLux 7X16 lathe.  If
the old bolt head works ok for this, fine.  Else I have some CRS 1018 stock
to turn to the right OD, then drill from the tailstock drill chuck for the
proper clearance hole.  I also have a set of LH drill/extractor bits that I
plan to use once the pilot hole(s) are drilled.

Greg



-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of G Mann
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 8:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt- UPDATE

A quick tip:
If you have access to a metal lathe, or someone who does, take the broken
bolt to the lathe and drill a pilot hole through the head and the body of
the broken section of the bolt.
Use your best judgement as to the size of the pilot drill hole, doesn't have
to be large but should be large enough to not break the drill. Then use the
broken bolt as a drill guide to drill the exact center of the remaining half
of the bolt still in the crankshaft.

You will save a lot of effort by having a pilot hole in the broken part
still in the shaft. Second drill a little larger, etc until you have the
size you need to use the broken bolt extractor.

With the bore hole well located in the center, the extractor will work much
better and your chance of success will greatly increase.

I also suggest the use of Left turn drill bits for the last two or three
size increases in the pilot hole.. sometimes the drill pressure will walk
the broken part right out as you drill it.

All the best success.

Grant...

On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 7:06 PM, Michael Canfield
slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 Find out if it is the same bolt as a 79 300cd non-turbo.  If it is I 
 have one.

 Mike
 On Aug 12, 2013 9:56 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Good news!  We pulled the pulleys and there appears to be no damage 
  to
 the
  crankshaft.  The 2 keyways are semicircular, the keys are little
 cylinders
  about 9mm in diameter and about 10-12 mm long.  I've never seen 
  other
 than
  rectangular keys before.  Apparently once the Belleville washers 
  are
 gone
  they just fall out, causing slippage of the pulleys (but saving the 
  keyways on the crank and pulley).  The bolt remains will have to be 
  drilled to
 be
  pulled.  We may be able to get this done on my boy's next day off 
  if I
 can
  source a new bolt locally.
 
  Thanks again for all the help!!!
 
  Greg
 
 
  Get a OE bolt.  You want  the real thing.  It is a stretch bolt.  
  You can by one from a junkyard, someone on the list may have one for 
  free, or try  Potomac German, or one of the many vendors in the 
  Star. A quick search
 for
  a crankshaft or engine block on car-part.com will give you a long 
  list
 of
  junkyards that have the engine.  Then you can call them and ask if 
  they will sell you a crank bolt.  As last resorts, you can contact a
 stealership
  or the classic center.
 
  __**_
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead perhaps

2013-08-04 Thread Fmiser
 Michael wrote:
 
 Interesting, I have never seen a w123 dash with English
 measurements. Thought they were all Metric.

I think the pre-1981 have Imperial units for the temp and
pressure.  All believe US models have Imperial speedometer.

This is based on my observations.  Most of my 123s are 1981 or
newer, but my '78 and the other older ones I've seen support it.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead perhaps

2013-08-04 Thread Hendrik and Fay
Don't know, even with the auto I kept lowering the window and wondering 
why we are not moving.


Hendrik
who has a manual Diesel

On 04/08/13 01:28, Mountain Man wrote:

Hendrik wrote:

Hendrik
who still has fond memories of the mao mobile

I should have let you use the 3-pedal car.
Immensely more memorable.
mao




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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead perhaps

2013-08-03 Thread Hendrik and Fay
Considering what those nut jobs who find an tidy up old Merc Diesels are 
charging, that is not too way out there.

Looks pretty original.

Hendrik
who still has fond memories of the mao mobile

On 03/08/13 08:26, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  The 
car looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which I have 
not seen on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He wants $4k 
for it.  Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him to tell his 
seller I might be interested at $1500, but really that is way over my 
normal limit.


http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/




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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead perhaps

2013-08-03 Thread Michael Canfield
Interesting, I have never seen a w123 dash with English measurements.
Thought they were all Metric.

Mike
On Aug 3, 2013 6:15 AM, Hendrik and Fay heni...@gmail.com wrote:

 Considering what those nut jobs who find an tidy up old Merc Diesels are
 charging, that is not too way out there.
 Looks pretty original.

 Hendrik
 who still has fond memories of the mao mobile

 On 03/08/13 08:26, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  The car
 looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which I have not seen
 on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He wants $4k for it.
  Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him to tell his seller I might
 be interested at $1500, but really that is way over my normal limit.

 http://www.autofind.com/**dealer/details/18996/**00012312312039636/http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/



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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead perhaps

2013-08-03 Thread Mountain Man
Hendrik wrote:
 Hendrik
 who still has fond memories of the mao mobile

I should have let you use the 3-pedal car.
Immensely more memorable.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-02 Thread Michael Esh
Is it normal to have 3 washers on this bolt?

mike
On Aug 1, 2013, at 12:38 PM, Greg Fiorentino wrote:

 Hi All:
 
 
 
 My son was driving his 3-pedal 1980 240D ( with about 300K mi.) yesterday
 when the car began to run warm.  Suddenly he heard a loud PLINK, and
 something falling out of the engine compartment.  Then the engine overheated
 and he began to lose coolant.  The following very large (18mm thread) broken
 10.9 bolt with 3 thick washers was recovered:
 
 
 
 http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462
 
 
 
 Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.
 
 
 
 Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt came from?
 
 
 
 He will be driving SWMBO's TDI Jetta until we sort this out.
 
 
 
 TIA,
 
 
 
 Greg
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-02 Thread Greg Fiorentino
I wondered the same when I first saw it, but found pictures of MB crank
bolts online that also had them.  Does anyone know why they do this?

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Esh
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 4:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt

Is it normal to have 3 washers on this bolt?

mike


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-02 Thread Jim Cathey

I wondered the same when I first saw it, but found pictures of MB crank
bolts online that also had them.  Does anyone know why they do this?


They are Belleville (?) washers.  Not flat, they are hardened springs.
Stack 'em for more spring travel!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-02 Thread Michael Canfield
Yep. They are what is supposed to keep the bolt from getting loose as the
engine goes through different temps.

Mike
On Aug 2, 2013 1:00 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 I wondered the same when I first saw it, but found pictures of MB crank
 bolts online that also had them.  Does anyone know why they do this?


 They are Belleville (?) washers.  Not flat, they are hardened springs.
 Stack 'em for more spring travel!

 -- Jim



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[MBZ] 240D crackhead

2013-08-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  
The car looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which 
I have not seen on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He 
wants $4k for it.  Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him 
to tell his seller I might be interested at $1500, but really that 
is way over my normal limit.


http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/

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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead

2013-08-02 Thread Gary Hurst
calling it a 240td and advertising it as having 5 cylinders turns me off
almost as much as the price.


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 6:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  The car
 looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which I have not seen
 on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He wants $4k for it.
  Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him to tell his seller I might
 be interested at $1500, but really that is way over my normal limit.

 http://www.autofind.com/**dealer/details/18996/**00012312312039636/http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/

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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead

2013-08-02 Thread dseretakis
Was thinking the same. Does look clean though.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 2, 2013, at 7:42 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 calling it a 240td and advertising it as having 5 cylinders turns me off
 almost as much as the price.
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 6:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
 
 A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  The car
 looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which I have not seen
 on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He wants $4k for it.
 Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him to tell his seller I might
 be interested at $1500, but really that is way over my normal limit.
 
 http://www.autofind.com/**dealer/details/18996/**00012312312039636/http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D crackhead

2013-08-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
That is because my dumbass employee put the data in wrong. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:19 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Was thinking the same. Does look clean though.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 2, 2013, at 7:42 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 calling it a 240td and advertising it as having 5 cylinders turns me off
 almost as much as the price.
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 6:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
 
 A customer of mine is trying to sell a 77 240D on consignment.  The car
 looks pretty clean, no rust etc.  Has actual leather which I have not seen
 on a 240D but the drivers seat is cracked etc.  He wants $4k for it.
 Dealer knows the guy is on crack.  I told him to tell his seller I might
 be interested at $1500, but really that is way over my normal limit.
 
 http://www.autofind.com/**dealer/details/18996/**00012312312039636/http://www.autofind.com/dealer/details/18996/00012312312039636/
 
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[MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Hi All:

 

My son was driving his 3-pedal 1980 240D ( with about 300K mi.) yesterday
when the car began to run warm.  Suddenly he heard a loud PLINK, and
something falling out of the engine compartment.  Then the engine overheated
and he began to lose coolant.  The following very large (18mm thread) broken
10.9 bolt with 3 thick washers was recovered:

 

http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

 

Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.

 

Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt came from?

 

He will be driving SWMBO's TDI Jetta until we sort this out.

 

TIA,

 

Greg

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead

Hi All:



My son was driving his 3-pedal 1980 240D ( with about 300K mi.) yesterday
when the car began to run warm.  Suddenly he heard a loud PLINK, and
something falling out of the engine compartment.  Then the engine overheated
and he began to lose coolant.  The following very large (18mm thread) broken
10.9 bolt with 3 thick washers was recovered:



http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462



Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.



Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt came from?



He will be driving SWMBO's TDI Jetta until we sort this out.



TIA,



Greg


Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread OK Don
As well as the pulley that drives all the belts, hence no water pump, fan,
alternator, AC, power steering, etc.


On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 12:02 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi All:



 My son was driving his 3-pedal 1980 240D ( with about 300K mi.) yesterday
 when the car began to run warm.  Suddenly he heard a loud PLINK, and
 something falling out of the engine compartment.  Then the engine
 overheated
 and he began to lose coolant.  The following very large (18mm thread)
 broken
 10.9 bolt with 3 thick washers was recovered:



 http://my.opera.com/gfior/**albums/show.dml?id=14664462http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462



 Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.



 Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt came from?



 He will be driving SWMBO's TDI Jetta until we sort this out.



 TIA,



 Greg


 Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.


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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
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2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Fmiser
  Greg wrote:
 
  http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

  Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.

  Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt
  came from?

 Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

Yup.  And sheered off.  Doesn't explain the running hot, though.
Not until the damper falls off and so there is no drive pulley.

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Sheared off.
On Aug 1, 2013 1:58 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

   Greg wrote:
  
   http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

   Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.

   Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt
   came from?

  Dieselhead wrote:
 
  Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

 Yup.  And sheered off.  Doesn't explain the running hot, though.
 Not until the damper falls off and so there is no drive pulley.

 -- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Greg Fiorentino


http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

Dieselhead wrote:

Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

I was thinking (but hoping not) that would not only be the only fastener as
large as that, but that would also account for the poor cooling.  It sounds
like it might be a PITA to change out.  Anyone BTDT?  Tips and tricks?  Pull
radiator first?  Replace with even higher grade bolt (if available)?

Greg


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Richard Hattaway
Unless the key is sheared and the pulley is slipping.

If this is the case, a good fix is a new engine.  A chancy fix is epoxy.  The 
keyway in the crank is normally destroyed in this case.  

So sad.





 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt
 

  Greg wrote:
 
  http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

  Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.

  Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt
  came from?

 Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

Yup.  And sheered off.  Doesn't explain the running hot, though.
Not until the damper falls off and so there is no drive pulley.

--     Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead

 


http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

Dieselhead wrote:


Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

I was thinking (but hoping not) that would not only be the only fastener as
large as that, but that would also account for the poor cooling.  It sounds
like it might be a PITA to change out.  Anyone BTDT?  Tips and tricks?  Pull
radiator first?  Replace with even higher grade bolt (if available)?

Greg


yep, I had one snap off.  I was able to stick a small screwdriver in 
and turn the stub out.  If there is not enough of a burr on the stub, 
then you have to take out the radiator for sure.  You didn't say if 
you lost coolant because the radiator stopped cooling (no fan) or or 
if  you lost coolant because the bolt went through the radiator or a 
hose.


When it happened to my car, the whole damper pulley assembly was 
hanging on  the belts.  SWMBO was smart enough to pull off, and then 
got a tow to a gas station off the interstate.  I fixed it in one 
trip and maybe an hour or so laying on the ground, then SWMBO drove 
off to finish the trip.


If you can't turn out the stub, then you probably need a right angle 
drill and a left hand drill bit and maybe an easy out.


I'd think a 1/4 or 5/16 left hand drill would be big enough to turn 
the stub out.  You cant get in there with a regular elect. drill 
(reversible) even with the radiator out.



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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead

Unless the key is sheared and the pulley is slipping.

If this is the case, a good fix is a new engine.  A chancy fix is 
epoxy.  The keyway in the crank is normally destroyed in this case. 


So sad.



IF the bolt was loose and the damper chattered around, you are 
correct.  In my case, the bolt snapped, and the damper came off 
without chewing up anything.  The engine is still running fine, maybe 
15 years later.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Richard Hattaway
You can do it with everything in place.  It's not a bad job actually, but I 
think you may need to make a tool or two.  I don't remember the actual torque 
value, but it's in the 400 pound-foot range.  

First off you'll have to pull the whole mess off, belts and all, and assess the 
damage in the keyway.  Else you're wasting time IMO.  After that, putting it 
all back together is not so bad.  If you must, pull the radiator.  It's a 
simple pull, coupla oil lines maybe, two hoses, and two bolts.  rubber fitting 
up thingys at top make it easy.  I think you said three pedal, so no oil 
lines.. ( tranny cooler ) ..  You can get to the bolt w/o pulling the radiator, 
that's how I used to check timing chain stretch.. 27MM deepwell and a long 1/2 
inch drive.. 

Then bolt it back up.  The tool you'll need is a crankshaft rotational stopper. 
 Hursty uses a big yacht, and a comealong tied from the stern to the front 
bumper.  Put the car in gear and torque away.  I prefer a piece of keystock 
welded to a bracket in such a manner as to be able to bolt it on the rear of 
the engine bell housing area and have it stick thru to the gear teeth in the 
starter gear on flywheel viewed thru the inspection port.  I have such an 
animal in my tool box, but that does you no good unless you're in the charlotte 
NC area.  Needless to say it has to be pretty beefy.  You can also do stuff 
like cram a screwdriver and whatever else needed in the same hole to make the 
engine not turn.  Catch the gear teeth just so, hold and crank.  It takes two 
people, and since I only have one in my shop I use the home made tool.

I guess I could email a picture of it if you really want one. 

Richard





 From: Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt
 



http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

Dieselhead wrote:

Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

I was thinking (but hoping not) that would not only be the only fastener as
large as that, but that would also account for the poor cooling.  It sounds
like it might be a PITA to change out.  Anyone BTDT?  Tips and tricks?  Pull
radiator first?  Replace with even higher grade bolt (if available)?

Greg


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Richard Hattaway
My buddy's Honda chewed the slot up to a round dent in the crank.  Hard to do, 
I thought.  Figured it'd chip out.  But it rounded out the crank and chewed up 
the damper.

Now we have the difference between a ricer and a stately Mercedes.. the 
Mercedes has enough common decency to fail in a manner that makes the owner 
love it (c: ..

Richard


 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt
 

Unless the key is sheared and the pulley is slipping.

If this is the case, a good fix is a new engine.  A chancy fix is 
epoxy.  The keyway in the crank is normally destroyed in this case. 

So sad.


IF the bolt was loose and the damper chattered around, you are 
correct.  In my case, the bolt snapped, and the damper came off 
without chewing up anything.  The engine is still running fine, maybe 
15 years later.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread WILTON
Vib damper on my '80 240D was poorly secured with 5 or 6 smaller bolts; some 
came out; others sheared; damper and pulley finally came off and dropped 
SWMBO on road; long distance truck driver gave her lift to a phone.  'Think 
the car had about 60 kmi then - my second MB disappointment; first was when 
exhaust pipe broke apart at rear end of muffler at 40 kmi.  Third was when 
timing chain in '91 350SDL broke at 89 kmi.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt






http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

Dieselhead wrote:


Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

I was thinking (but hoping not) that would not only be the only fastener 
as
large as that, but that would also account for the poor cooling.  It 
sounds
like it might be a PITA to change out.  Anyone BTDT?  Tips and tricks? 
Pull

radiator first?  Replace with even higher grade bolt (if available)?

Greg


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Greg Fiorentino
A chancy fix is epoxy.

How about (if the key is sheared) braze or hard silver solder a new key onto
the crankshaft?  Or use some super-duper Loctite on the key as well as the
pulley/crankshaft joint?  I suspect these would be stronger in a small gap
than epoxy.  I read that specialized Loctite types are used in some
surprisingly high-stress applications.

A new engine would be very hard on his finances.

What would cause this failure?  Bolt torque/stretched too far?  If a repair
is possible (key NOT sheared or keyway usable) is this likely to happen
again?

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Hattaway
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 12:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt

Unless the key is sheared and the pulley is slipping.

If this is the case, a good fix is a new engine.  A chancy fix is epoxy. 
The keyway in the crank is normally destroyed in this case.  

So sad.





 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt
 

  Greg wrote:
 
  http://my.opera.com/gfior/albums/show.dml?id=14664462

  Aside from running very hot the engine seems to run normally.

  Does any of you have an idea what happened and where this bolt
  came from?

 Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Crankshaft bolt.  Holds the vibration damper on the crankshaft.

Yup.  And sheered off.  Doesn't explain the running hot, though.
Not until the damper falls off and so there is no drive pulley.

--     Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Greg Fiorentino wrote:

A chancy fix is epoxy.

How about (if the key is sheared) braze or hard silver solder a new key onto
the crankshaft?  Or use some super-duper Loctite on the key as well as the
pulley/crankshaft joint?  I suspect these would be stronger in a small gap
than epoxy.  I read that specialized Loctite types are used in some
surprisingly high-stress applications.


I was thinking use a keyway file to open the slots up to the next larger (maybe 
in sized in inches) key. If you can't save the keyway, I'd spot weld it in place 
with an arc welder.
Heating the whole crank nose to soldering or brazing temps won't be easy and 
will heat up things like bearings and seals too.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Randy Bennell

On 01/08/2013 2:18 PM, Richard Hattaway wrote:

You can do it with everything in place.  It's not a bad job actually, but I 
think you may need to make a tool or two.  I don't remember the actual torque 
value, but it's in the 400 pound-foot range.

First off you'll have to pull the whole mess off, belts and all, and assess the 
damage in the keyway.  Else you're wasting time IMO.  After that, putting it 
all back together is not so bad.  If you must, pull the radiator.  It's a 
simple pull, coupla oil lines maybe, two hoses, and two bolts.  rubber fitting 
up thingys at top make it easy.  I think you said three pedal, so no oil 
lines.. ( tranny cooler ) ..  You can get to the bolt w/o pulling the radiator, 
that's how I used to check timing chain stretch.. 27MM deepwell and a long 1/2 
inch drive..

Then bolt it back up.  The tool you'll need is a crankshaft rotational stopper. 
 Hursty uses a big yacht, and a comealong tied from the stern to the front 
bumper.  Put the car in gear and torque away.  I prefer a piece of keystock 
welded to a bracket in such a manner as to be able to bolt it on the rear of 
the engine bell housing area and have it stick thru to the gear teeth in the 
starter gear on flywheel viewed thru the inspection port.  I have such an 
animal in my tool box, but that does you no good unless you're in the charlotte 
NC area.  Needless to say it has to be pretty beefy.  You can also do stuff 
like cram a screwdriver and whatever else needed in the same hole to make the 
engine not turn.  Catch the gear teeth just so, hold and crank.  It takes two 
people, and since I only have one in my shop I use the home made tool.

I guess I could email a picture of it if you really want one.

Richard






We made one when we pulled the bolt on the old 4Runner last summer to 
replace the head gaskets etc.
Basically a steel plate with a hole in the middle to put the socket on 
the rattle gun through and smaller holes to bolt to the dampener in the 
spots intended for the bolts that hold the pulley onto the dampener and 
a steel bar arm that is long enough to sit on the frame rail.


You need a big torque wrench for 400 foot pounds. I bought a 3/4 drive 
wrench that is about 4 feet long.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead
My buddy's Honda chewed the slot up to a round dent in the crank. 
Hard to do, I thought.  Figured it'd chip out.  But it rounded out 
the crank and chewed up the damper.


Now we have the difference between a ricer and a stately Mercedes.. 
the Mercedes has enough common decency to fail in a manner that 
makes the owner love it (c: ..


Richard


Prezackly!

Who wants a ricer anyhow?

My one (1) honda had crappy bolts that broke off rather than loosen. 
Then I got a broken BMW R50 and the bolts were SO GOOD it was a 
pleasure to work on it.  They let off an audible crack when they 
loosened.  Never wanted any more rice burners after that.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead



We made one when we pulled the bolt on the old 4Runner last summer 
to replace the head gaskets etc.
Basically a steel plate with a hole in the middle to put the socket 
on the rattle gun through and smaller holes to bolt to the dampener 
in the spots intended for the bolts that hold the pulley onto the 
dampener and a steel bar arm that is long enough to sit on the frame 
rail.


You need a big torque wrench for 400 foot pounds. I bought a 3/4 
drive wrench that is about 4 feet long.


Randy




400 ft. lb.?  Bah!  put a long 1/2 breaker bar on it and tighten it 
snug.  I never had one come out in 40 years of working on MB diesels. 
(not that it couldn't)Put 80 on it and it will stay put.


400 ft lb likely WILL pop the bolt or cause a fracture that leads to 
this kind of failure.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead
Vib damper on my '80 240D was poorly secured with 5 or 6 smaller 
bolts; some came out; others sheared; damper and pulley finally came 
off and dropped SWMBO on road; long distance truck driver gave her 
lift to a phone.  'Think the car had about 60 kmi then - my second 
MB disappointment; first was when exhaust pipe broke apart at rear 
end of muffler at 40 kmi.  Third was when timing chain in '91 350SDL 
broke at 89 kmi.


Wilton



Yeah, I had that happen too.  Fortunately, I was able to turn those 
stubs out from below also.  6 bolts 8mm x 25 or 30 mm bolts.   Not 
sure about the length.  could be 35.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Dieselhead



What would cause this failure?


Fatigue


Bolt torque/stretched too far?


probably not, but possible


 If a repair
is possible (key NOT sheared or keyway usable) is this likely to happen
again?


maybe after another 200k miles plus, or if the new bolts are not as 
good as the old ones.


That is a hardened bolt.  Hardening steel is as much art as science. 
It could just be a little material that caused a different crystal 
structure when the bolt was made.  could be one in 1000 or one in 
100,000.  I'd just replace the bolt and not worry about it.


If the shaft is chewed up, then go for the locktite.  What do you 
have to lose?  Or loosen?


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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Randy Bennell

On 01/08/2013 4:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:



We made one when we pulled the bolt on the old 4Runner last summer to 
replace the head gaskets etc.
Basically a steel plate with a hole in the middle to put the socket 
on the rattle gun through and smaller holes to bolt to the dampener 
in the spots intended for the bolts that hold the pulley onto the 
dampener and a steel bar arm that is long enough to sit on the frame 
rail.


You need a big torque wrench for 400 foot pounds. I bought a 3/4 
drive wrench that is about 4 feet long.


Randy




400 ft. lb.?  Bah!  put a long 1/2 breaker bar on it and tighten it 
snug.  I never had one come out in 40 years of working on MB diesels. 
(not that it couldn't)Put 80 on it and it will stay put.


400 ft lb likely WILL pop the bolt or cause a fracture that leads to 
this kind of failure.


___


Hey come on --- this is an excuse to buy another toy. Tell the wife you 
need it and cannot fix the car without etc.


I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Craig
On Thu, 01 Aug 2013 17:19:16 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
 commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.

Well, it's high, but it is not 400 ft-lb, which will indeed break things.
IIRC, it's something like 225 - 250 ft-lb. All my manuals are packed
away, or I would look it up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread WILTON

Craig, how's your healing going?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt



On Thu, 01 Aug 2013 17:19:16 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.


Well, it's high, but it is not 400 ft-lb, which will indeed break things.
IIRC, it's something like 225 - 250 ft-lb. All my manuals are packed
away, or I would look it up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Frederick Moir
According to Haynes :- 270-330 Nm or 199-244 Ft-lbs.
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt
 

On Thu, 01 Aug 2013 17:19:16 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
 commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.

Well, it's high, but it is not 400 ft-lb, which will indeed break things.
IIRC, it's something like 225 - 250 ft-lb. All my manuals are packed
away, or I would look it up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Scott Ritchey

The book says 270-330 Nm (200-244 ft lb).

http://pt709.synology.me/03-340.pdf


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 6:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt

On Thu, 01 Aug 2013 17:19:16 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
 commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.

Well, it's high, but it is not 400 ft-lb, which will indeed break things.
IIRC, it's something like 225 - 250 ft-lb. All my manuals are packed
away, or I would look it up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt????

2013-08-01 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Thanks to all who replied.  ALL of the hints and ideas sound good to me.
It'll be a week or so before I have the time dig in to this.

The 400 lb. ft. sounded strange to me.  I do have a torque wrench that goes
up to 250 or 300, but couldn't find any 400s online even.

I'll let y'all know how this progresses.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Ritchey
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 4:06 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt


The book says 270-330 Nm (200-244 ft lb).

http://pt709.synology.me/03-340.pdf


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 6:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D Mystery Bolt

On Thu, 01 Aug 2013 17:19:16 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 I have no idea what the recommended torque value is. I was just 
 commenting on the ealier post that suggested 400 ft #.

Well, it's high, but it is not 400 ft-lb, which will indeed break things.
IIRC, it's something like 225 - 250 ft-lb. All my manuals are packed away,
or I would look it up.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-14 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 1:15 PM -0700 7/13/13, Curt Raymond wrote:

 Then I found a pivot point that also levers out in the wrong 
direction. I guess it needs a new bushing.


Had a similar issue with a 450SEL once, but I made the discovery 
whilst broken down on the side of the interstate.  I wound up putting 
a small wrench socket in place of the bushing and was able to make it 
to my destination and back home afterwards...  ;)



Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.


Good show!

-MMM-

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[MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
So I've been keeping quiet about this because I didn't want to jinx myself but 
last weekend I retorqued the head bolts on my '78 240D. You'll remember thats 
the one where the exhaust was blowing the coolant back out of the engine. Some 
of the bolts were still tight but some needed a little more, some needed as 
much as 1/8 turn.
With them all tightened to spec the engine seems content to keep the wet stuff 
inside where it belongs. I drove it a few miles to prove that worked and then 
parked it, the engine seemed to idle rough cold and some valves tapped 
threateningly.

Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until I get a 
proper set of wrenches... I found the intakes all slightly loose (0.13mm) 
except for one that was perfect. The exhausts were all slightly tight 
(0.25-0.28mm). Considering the rough adjustment I was capable of I decided I'd 
loosen the tight exhaust valves and leave the loose intakes where they were, 
even then the adjustment took me right on 2 hours, most of that was farting 
around not knowing what I was doing.

Apparently the tight exhaust valves were the cause of my noise as its gone but 
the car still seems under powered even for a 240D. I took it for a 20 mile run 
at speeds up to 60mph with the AC blowing ice cold most of the time except when 
I didn't have power to climb hills. By the time I got home it was definitely 
running better and had more power but still not enough.

When Angie got home I had her work the pedal while I observed the linkage. This 
car has a spring thing in the linkage from the pedal which I don't understand 
the point of. I guess its to stop from forcing a linkage thats stuck. Anyway it 
appears to have lost its sproing because it wasn't pushing the linkage 
sufficiently. With the pedal on the floor we were only getting about 1/2 travel 
to the stop, I suppose that explains why the car always felt down on power. I 
put a hose clamp on the moving bit so it can't move and that got about 1/2 the 
missing travel back. Then I found a pivot point that also levers out in the 
wrong direction. I guess it needs a new bushing. With no new bushing to put in 
but lots of pedal travel that doesn't do anything (the first 1/8 of travel 
accomplishes nothing) I adjusted the other linkages so that now the lever at 
the IP goes all the way to the stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems 
like a reasonable idea...

Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

-Curt
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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread OK Don
ATTABOY!!!  This is a manual tranny car isn't it? If so, the spring loaded
thing in the accelerator linkage is to help prevent bunny hops when
starting from a dead stop - usually a problem for those not accomplished at
driving a standard, IIRC.


On Sat, Jul 13, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 So I've been keeping quiet about this because I didn't want to jinx myself
 but last weekend I retorqued the head bolts on my '78 240D. You'll remember
 thats the one where the exhaust was blowing the coolant back out of the
 engine. Some of the bolts were still tight but some needed a little more,
 some needed as much as 1/8 turn.
 With them all tightened to spec the engine seems content to keep the wet
 stuff inside where it belongs. I drove it a few miles to prove that worked
 and then parked it, the engine seemed to idle rough cold and some valves
 tapped threateningly.

 Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until I get a
 proper set of wrenches... I found the intakes all slightly loose (0.13mm)
 except for one that was perfect. The exhausts were all slightly tight
 (0.25-0.28mm). Considering the rough adjustment I was capable of I decided
 I'd loosen the tight exhaust valves and leave the loose intakes where they
 were, even then the adjustment took me right on 2 hours, most of that was
 farting around not knowing what I was doing.

 Apparently the tight exhaust valves were the cause of my noise as its gone
 but the car still seems under powered even for a 240D. I took it for a 20
 mile run at speeds up to 60mph with the AC blowing ice cold most of the
 time except when I didn't have power to climb hills. By the time I got home
 it was definitely running better and had more power but still not enough.

 When Angie got home I had her work the pedal while I observed the linkage.
 This car has a spring thing in the linkage from the pedal which I don't
 understand the point of. I guess its to stop from forcing a linkage thats
 stuck. Anyway it appears to have lost its sproing because it wasn't pushing
 the linkage sufficiently. With the pedal on the floor we were only getting
 about 1/2 travel to the stop, I suppose that explains why the car always
 felt down on power. I put a hose clamp on the moving bit so it can't move
 and that got about 1/2 the missing travel back. Then I found a pivot point
 that also levers out in the wrong direction. I guess it needs a new
 bushing. With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that
 doesn't do anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I
 adjusted the other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the
 way to the stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a reasonable
 idea...

 Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

 -Curt
 ___
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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread Craig
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:15:30 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that doesn't do
 anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I adjusted the
 other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the way to the
 stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a reasonable idea...

It certainly does seem like a reasonable idea. If the IP lever doesn't go
all the way to the stop, you are not getting full power.


 Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

Ye! (I'll let Wilton chime in with his approbation.)


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread WILTON

ATTABOY acomin'.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 4:15 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 240D success!


So I've been keeping quiet about this because I didn't want to jinx myself 
but last weekend I retorqued the head bolts on my '78 240D. You'll 
remember thats the one where the exhaust was blowing the coolant back out 
of the engine. Some of the bolts were still tight but some needed a little 
more, some needed as much as 1/8 turn.
With them all tightened to spec the engine seems content to keep the wet 
stuff inside where it belongs. I drove it a few miles to prove that worked 
and then parked it, the engine seemed to idle rough cold and some valves 
tapped threateningly.


Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until I get a 
proper set of wrenches... I found the intakes all slightly loose (0.13mm) 
except for one that was perfect. The exhausts were all slightly tight 
(0.25-0.28mm). Considering the rough adjustment I was capable of I decided 
I'd loosen the tight exhaust valves and leave the loose intakes where they 
were, even then the adjustment took me right on 2 hours, most of that was 
farting around not knowing what I was doing.


Apparently the tight exhaust valves were the cause of my noise as its gone 
but the car still seems under powered even for a 240D. I took it for a 20 
mile run at speeds up to 60mph with the AC blowing ice cold most of the 
time except when I didn't have power to climb hills. By the time I got 
home it was definitely running better and had more power but still not 
enough.


When Angie got home I had her work the pedal while I observed the linkage. 
This car has a spring thing in the linkage from the pedal which I don't 
understand the point of. I guess its to stop from forcing a linkage thats 
stuck. Anyway it appears to have lost its sproing because it wasn't 
pushing the linkage sufficiently. With the pedal on the floor we were only 
getting about 1/2 travel to the stop, I suppose that explains why the car 
always felt down on power. I put a hose clamp on the moving bit so it 
can't move and that got about 1/2 the missing travel back. Then I found a 
pivot point that also levers out in the wrong direction. I guess it needs 
a new bushing. With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that 
doesn't do anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I 
adjusted the other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the 
way to the stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a 
reasonable idea...


Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

-Curt
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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread WILTON
'First thing I did to my 123's and 126 when I got 'em home was to remove 
that stiff coil spring in the throttle linage immediately behind the 
engine that made the accelerator operation really stiff.  Yeah, yeah, I 
know, if MB engineers hadn't thought it was necessary, they wouldn't have 
put it there.  I think I have 3 little-used ones (one brand new) down in 
basement somewhere.  'Only difference I can tell for the last 34 years is 
that it's been a lot easier on my right leg.  'Didn't notice the stiffness 
problem on the 124.  Thinking about it more; not sure the 126 had one.


Wilton

- Original Message -
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D success!



ATTABOY!!!  This is a manual tranny car isn't it? If so, the spring loaded
thing in the accelerator linkage is to help prevent bunny hops when
starting from a dead stop - usually a problem for those not accomplished 
at

driving a standard, IIRC.


On Sat, Jul 13, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com 
wrote:


So I've been keeping quiet about this because I didn't want to jinx 
myself
but last weekend I retorqued the head bolts on my '78 240D. You'll 
remember

thats the one where the exhaust was blowing the coolant back out of the
engine. Some of the bolts were still tight but some needed a little more,
some needed as much as 1/8 turn.
With them all tightened to spec the engine seems content to keep the wet
stuff inside where it belongs. I drove it a few miles to prove that 
worked

and then parked it, the engine seemed to idle rough cold and some valves
tapped threateningly.

Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until I get a
proper set of wrenches... I found the intakes all slightly loose (0.13mm)
except for one that was perfect. The exhausts were all slightly tight
(0.25-0.28mm). Considering the rough adjustment I was capable of I 
decided
I'd loosen the tight exhaust valves and leave the loose intakes where 
they

were, even then the adjustment took me right on 2 hours, most of that was
farting around not knowing what I was doing.

Apparently the tight exhaust valves were the cause of my noise as its 
gone

but the car still seems under powered even for a 240D. I took it for a 20
mile run at speeds up to 60mph with the AC blowing ice cold most of the
time except when I didn't have power to climb hills. By the time I got 
home

it was definitely running better and had more power but still not enough.

When Angie got home I had her work the pedal while I observed the 
linkage.

This car has a spring thing in the linkage from the pedal which I don't
understand the point of. I guess its to stop from forcing a linkage thats
stuck. Anyway it appears to have lost its sproing because it wasn't 
pushing
the linkage sufficiently. With the pedal on the floor we were only 
getting

about 1/2 travel to the stop, I suppose that explains why the car always
felt down on power. I put a hose clamp on the moving bit so it can't move
and that got about 1/2 the missing travel back. Then I found a pivot 
point

that also levers out in the wrong direction. I guess it needs a new
bushing. With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that
doesn't do anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I
adjusted the other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the
way to the stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a 
reasonable

idea...

Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

-Curt
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--
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
Seems to have worked too, I just took the car for 10 more miles and it behaved 
much more like it ought to, had all the get up and go I'd expect for 72hp.

I even ran the AC for the whole time and it still managed to climb the hill to 
get back home. I have to go to California tomorrow, when I get back I'll spend 
some time looking into the bushing on that pivot...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 14:45:02 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D success!
Message-ID: 20130713144502.219065d9050e046f07d4b...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:15:30 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that doesn't do
 anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I adjusted the
 other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the way to the
 stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a reasonable idea...

It certainly does seem like a reasonable idea. If the IP lever doesn't go
all the way to the stop, you are not getting full power.


 Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

Ye! (I'll let Wilton chime in with his approbation.)


Craig
___
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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread Dieselhead
ATTAboy!  Those linkages are not complex, but if the bellcrank 
bushing under the intake manifold is worn, your go pedal won't make 
it go!



So I've been keeping quiet about this because I didn't want to jinx 
myself but last weekend I retorqued the head bolts on my '78 240D. 
You'll remember thats the one where the exhaust was blowing the 
coolant back out of the engine. Some of the bolts were still tight 
but some needed a little more, some needed as much as 1/8 turn.
With them all tightened to spec the engine seems content to keep the 
wet stuff inside where it belongs. I drove it a few miles to prove 
that worked and then parked it, the engine seemed to idle rough cold 
and some valves tapped threateningly.


Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until I 
get a proper set of wrenches... I found the intakes all slightly 
loose (0.13mm) except for one that was perfect. The exhausts were 
all slightly tight (0.25-0.28mm). Considering the rough adjustment I 
was capable of I decided I'd loosen the tight exhaust valves and 
leave the loose intakes where they were, even then the adjustment 
took me right on 2 hours, most of that was farting around not 
knowing what I was doing.


Apparently the tight exhaust valves were the cause of my noise as 
its gone but the car still seems under powered even for a 240D. I 
took it for a 20 mile run at speeds up to 60mph with the AC blowing 
ice cold most of the time except when I didn't have power to climb 
hills. By the time I got home it was definitely running better and 
had more power but still not enough.


When Angie got home I had her work the pedal while I observed the 
linkage. This car has a spring thing in the linkage from the pedal 
which I don't understand the point of. I guess its to stop from 
forcing a linkage thats stuck. Anyway it appears to have lost its 
sproing because it wasn't pushing the linkage sufficiently. With the 
pedal on the floor we were only getting about 1/2 travel to the 
stop, I suppose that explains why the car always felt down on power. 
I put a hose clamp on the moving bit so it can't move and that got 
about 1/2 the missing travel back. Then I found a pivot point that 
also levers out in the wrong direction. I guess it needs a new 
bushing. With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that 
doesn't do anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I 
adjusted the other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all 
the way to the stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a 
reasonable idea...


Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] 240D success!

2013-07-13 Thread dseretakis
Or you could drive it to California and really see how good of a job you did:)

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 13, 2013, at 5:38 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Seems to have worked too, I just took the car for 10 more miles and it 
 behaved much more like it ought to, had all the get up and go I'd expect for 
 72hp.
 
 I even ran the AC for the whole time and it still managed to climb the hill 
 to get back home. I have to go to California tomorrow, when I get back I'll 
 spend some time looking into the bushing on that pivot...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 14:45:02 -0600
 From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D success!
 Message-ID: 20130713144502.219065d9050e046f07d4b...@pisquared.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
 
 On Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:15:30 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
 curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 With no new bushing to put in but lots of pedal travel that doesn't do
 anything (the first 1/8 of travel accomplishes nothing) I adjusted the
 other linkages so that now the lever at the IP goes all the way to the
 stop. I've yet to make a test run but it seems like a reasonable idea...
 
 It certainly does seem like a reasonable idea. If the IP lever doesn't go
 all the way to the stop, you are not getting full power.
 
 
 Anyway it looks like the Phoenix is rising once again.
 
 Ye! (I'll let Wilton chime in with his approbation.)
 
 
 Craig
 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] 240D

2013-07-12 Thread Randy Bennell

1980 240D - chocolate brown with white - (parchment?) upholstery
manual transmission and hand crank windows
advertised locally with about 235K miles on it
photos look nice
no mention of AC so that might be bad news

reasonable price?

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Re: [MBZ] 240D

2013-07-12 Thread Curt Raymond
Condition is everything.

My '78 was the opposite of that one, white outside chocolate brown interior. I 
paid $1500 with maybe 10k fewer miles and non-working AC that just needed a 
hose and a drier.

Today prices are higher, $1500 doesn't buy a car that will pass MA inspection, 
for that you're looking at $2500... I looked at a Jetta TDI a few weeks ago, he 
was asking $3500, it needs some work. Turn signal lenses and a few little 
things (glow plugs) to pass inspection, has a little rust. Worse its got a 
turbo whine I think means the turbo is packing up. I got him down to $3000 but 
he wouldn't go a penny less. I walked.
I test drove a 2001 Saab 93, they want $1500. It starts and runs good, radio 
doesn't work at all. CEL on, parking brake indicator on, brake wear indicator 
on, no parking brake at all, some rust. I probably coulda had it for $1200 but 
walked...

Based on that I suspect I could still sell my 240D (once the head/headgasket 
issue is worked out) for $1000, I suspect my 190D is now around $3k (I paid 
$250).

-Curt

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 11:37:34 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 240D
Message-ID: 51e030ce.8070...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

1980 240D - chocolate brown with white - (parchment?) upholstery
manual transmission and hand crank windows
advertised locally with about 235K miles on it
photos look nice
no mention of AC so that might be bad news

reasonable price?
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-11 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 8:29 PM -0700 7/10/13, clay wrote:

Yes.  Sorry for the late reply.

I did the job on Gump and the stalk stayed put.  I have a trio of 
stalks that are almost tight, but slip at times.  A tiny filing at 
the ends and the middle stops to make it more defined will help. 
Just be careful to not go too far, as then the stalk gets stuck


And I've done the same operation on 114/115 stalks.  Moto tool and 
small end mill does the job, judiciously applied.


-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-10 Thread clay
Yes.  Sorry for the late reply.

I did the job on Gump and the stalk stayed put.  I have a trio of stalks that 
are almost tight, but slip at times.  A tiny filing at the ends and the middle 
stops to make it more defined will help.  Just be careful to not go too far, as 
then the stalk gets stuck

clay



On Jul 1, 2013, at 1:12 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Can the turn signal stalk on a 78 240D be repaired-as in, is it eligible to 
 have the detents filed?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-05 Thread Dieselhead
So if battery was bad then why wouldn't it even crank with battery 
charger set 225A start mode. Why did it initially crank with 
battery charger and now not?


Somebody once told me that it takes more like 1000A to crank one
of these diesels over, if it's on the cold side.

-- Jim



When I worked at the univ, the campus cops used to provide a free 
jump.  Well one very cold day the 240D would not crank fast enough. 
So the cop get out of the car with one of those flashlight battery 
car starter things.  I told him that won't work, you need real jumper 
cables.  He insisted it would work.  So I said ok and he hooked it 
up.  It didn't work and made no difference.  I was kind of 
disappointed that it didn't melt into a blob.


To Jim's point, a bad battery in a diesel will generally not start on 
jumper cables unless they are 00 to  cable.  I have never had one 
start on a charger, unless the charger was left on long enough to 
charge the battery.


Moral of the story:  Put a new battery in you Diesel ever few years. 
take the old one and put it in the 107 SL or some other gasser where 
it can live out its old age.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-05 Thread WILTON
Nearly 30 years ago, late on a Fri afternoon, SWMBO and I headed out on trip 
to Charlotte, 'bout 3½ hours away in our 80 240D.  Stopped for fuel about 20 
mi away; got back in car - no start.  A farmer was at pump in front of me; I 
asked him, Please, Sir. do you have jumper cables?  Can you give me a jump, 
please?  He glanced at the 240D and said, Ain't dat a Diesel?  I cain't 
start no Diesel!  Dat thang's 24 volts!  I cain't start no Diesel!  Tried 
to tell 'im, Yes, its a Diesel, but it's 12 volts just like your truck; all 
it needs is just a touch; it starts easily; If the cables are good, it'll 
start it.  Reply, as he got in his truck to leave, Naw, I cain't start no 
Diesel!  Dat thang's 24 volts!  As he started and began to roll away, I 
said, We'll thank you, Sir, you obviously know 'all' about it.

Rushed to Sears and got new bat.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D no start


So if battery was bad then why wouldn't it even crank with battery 
charger set 225A start mode. Why did it initially crank with battery 
charger and now not?


Somebody once told me that it takes more like 1000A to crank one
of these diesels over, if it's on the cold side.

-- Jim



When I worked at the univ, the campus cops used to provide a free jump. 
Well one very cold day the 240D would not crank fast enough. So the cop 
get out of the car with one of those flashlight battery car starter 
things.  I told him that won't work, you need real jumper cables.  He 
insisted it would work.  So I said ok and he hooked it up.  It didn't work 
and made no difference.  I was kind of disappointed that it didn't melt 
into a blob.


To Jim's point, a bad battery in a diesel will generally not start on 
jumper cables unless they are 00 to  cable.  I have never had one 
start on a charger, unless the charger was left on long enough to charge 
the battery.


Moral of the story:  Put a new battery in you Diesel ever few years. take 
the old one and put it in the 107 SL or some other gasser where it can 
live out its old age.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-05 Thread Fmiser
 Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Moral of the story:  Put a new battery in you Diesel ever few
 years. take the old one and put it in the 107 SL or some other
 gasser where it can live out its old age.

About the only diesel left in my fleet is the lawnmower.  I guess I
could rig a battery box for it, though I think the ring-gear
alternator will be stressed trying to change it.

Oh, and the chainsaw, but that doesn't use a battery.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-05 Thread Gerry Archer
Drove into Autozone with a dead battery around 8:30 pm, turned off engine, 
and went inside to buy a new one.  The two sweet young ladies would not 
install a new one because it was dribbling rain off and on.  I asked for a 
jump and they brought out a small hand-held battery pack.  I said I didn't 
think it would start a diesel.
Lo and behold, it did very quickly.  Still can't explain it since jumps from 
other cars have failed in the past even though I have heavy cables.  Would 
NIMH batteries be putting out that much more current than lead acid?  That's 
the only explanation I can think of.

Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
So if battery was bad then why wouldn't it even crank with battery 
charger set 225A start mode. Why did it initially crank with battery 
charger and now not?


Somebody once told me that it takes more like 1000A to crank one
of these diesels over, if it's on the cold side.

-- Jim



When I worked at the univ, the campus cops used to provide a free jump. 
Well one very cold day the 240D would not crank fast enough. So the cop 
get out of the car with one of those flashlight battery car starter 
things.  I told him that won't work, you need real jumper cables.  He 
insisted it would work.  So I said ok and he hooked it up.  It didn't work 
and made no difference.  I was kind of disappointed that it didn't melt 
into a blob.


To Jim's point, a bad battery in a diesel will generally not start on 
jumper cables unless they are 00 to  cable.  I have never had one 
start on a charger, unless the charger was left on long enough to charge 
the battery.


Moral of the story:  Put a new battery in you Diesel ever few years. take 
the old one and put it in the 107 SL or some other gasser where it can 
live out its old age.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-03 Thread Michael Canfield
Ok.  I was thinking about CLP...not LPS..CLP is for guns and such.
We don't have LPS here.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 11:34 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Michael wrote:
 
  In a harsh environment like that the wd-40 is better.  It
  displaces the water and leaves a protective barrier.  Your LPS
  will not work as well.

 Wow.  Bold statement, especially without specifying _which_ LPS
 product.

 LPS3 is a waxy oil stuff that is very good at protecting
 from rust, and good at keeping moving parts moving.  In my
 experience, WD-40 is vastly inferior at providing a protective
 coating.

 Again, in my experience LPS2 is a superior lubricant compared to
 WD-40.  I'm not sure how they compare for long term protection
 because I use LPS3 for that job.

 LPS1 is a dry lubricate once the carrier evaporates.  I does not
 cause dust to stick, so is suitable for things like the 40ft
 telescoping pneumatic masts.  It doesn't gum up like WD-40, and in
 my experience lubricates at least as well.

 I use WD-40 to kill wasps on their nests and to displace water in
 ignition systems.  It works well for those jobs, but I personally
 wouldn't use it for any task that required lubrication - long or
 short term.

 My only complaint with LPS is trying to find a local retailer to
 sell it...

 --Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-02 Thread Jim Cathey
Can the turn signal stalk on a 78 240D be repaired-as in, is it 
eligible to have the detents filed?


Yes, so far as I know.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Jim Cathey

But WD-40 is not a lubricant.

But it sure acts like one.


I think of it more as a very slow-set glue.

I used ATF, and used the vacuum source to slurp it
up into the cable sheath and all the way through.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-02 Thread Jim Cathey
So if battery was bad then why wouldn't it even crank with battery 
charger set 225A start mode. Why did it initially crank with battery 
charger and now not?


Somebody once told me that it takes more like 1000A to crank one
of these diesels over, if it's on the cold side.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-02 Thread dseretakis
There were lights with charger connected but I guess the battery was so dead 
that it was robbing the current from the car.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2013, at 11:59 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Ok trying to get my friend's 78 240D started. No luck. It
 initially would crank with battery charger hooked up but then  on
 subsequent attempt would not crank. Without charger no dash
 lights, nothing. Not sure what's going on. I replaced the starter
 on this car several years ago, my friend drove it for a few
 months then he couldn't start it. He let it sit for a year and a
 half and now this. What could be going on?
 
 Your description is not very concise nor will it logically parse.
 So with some guessing as to what you tried and what did and didn't
 work...
 
 If the lights work with the charger connected, and don't work with
 the charger disconnected, then likely the battery is dead.
 
 If there is no lights with or without the charger, then there isn't
 current flowing through them because it is interrupted someware.  Likely 
 locations are:
 
 battery cable body ground connection
 
 battery-to-starter cable
 
 connection at the starter
 
 A very dead battery that is robbing all the current leaving none
 for the car.
 
 --  Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-02 Thread dseretakis
That makes sense.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2013, at 2:34 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 So if battery was bad then why wouldn't it even crank with battery charger 
 set 225A start mode. Why did it initially crank with battery charger and now 
 not?
 
 Somebody once told me that it takes more like 1000A to crank one
 of these diesels over, if it's on the cold side.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-02 Thread dseretakis
You want to file the detents or depressions in order to once again allow the 
pin to nestle in place without popping out.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 2, 2013, at 12:13 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Can the turn signal stalk on a 78 240D be repaired-as in, is it
 eligible to have the detents filed?
 
 I'm a bit confused... What detents?  And why do you want to file
 them?  What should this repair?
 
 I am pretty sure my 1978 W123 turn signal assembly is exactly the
 same as the 1985 W123.  I don't know if that means its eligible to
 have the detents filed or not.
 
 --   Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-02 Thread Jim Cathey
You want to file the detents or depressions in order to once again 
allow the pin to nestle in place without popping out.


And go easy!  The difference between stays in the detent now and
won't come out of the detent now is only a stroke or two of the
file.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Is fish oil not a lubricant?

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

 LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the
 hood end as well.
 
Craig wrote:
   
But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
 
   Andrew wrote:
  
   But it sure acts like one.
 
  So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
 
  If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a
  lubricant.  LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
 
  --   Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Randy Bennell

On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off 
than when you started.


--R




Do you find that WD40 goops up?
My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Jim Cathey

Do you find that WD40 goops up?
My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.


Try spraying it in an adding machine, clock, etc.  Wait a month
or six.  Then buy another clock.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Rich Thomas
Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it 
evaporates but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My 
in-laws are quite fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right 
close to the water, and it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff 
tends to corrode and seize up.  They spray that stuff all over 
everything, and over time the gunk builds up and it does not move 
anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light spray lube of some sort one 
time, and the various family members told me it was no good.  Go 
figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I get there, so I 
did not fight it.


--R


On 7/2/13 12:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off 
than when you started.


--R




Do you find that WD40 goops up?
My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
It does goop up.  Provides an excellent protective barrier for non-moving
parts.  Not so good on moving parts as it collects dust and dirt and goops
up into a oily paste.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 12:14 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off
 than when you started.

 --R



 Do you find that WD40 goops up?
 My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
In a harsh environment like that the wd-40 is better.  It displaces the
water and leaves a protective barrier.  Your LPS will not work as well.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
wrote:

 Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it evaporates
 but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My in-laws are quite
 fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right close to the water, and
 it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff tends to corrode and seize
 up.  They spray that stuff all over everything, and over time the gunk
 builds up and it does not move anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light
 spray lube of some sort one time, and the various family members told me it
 was no good.  Go figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I
 get there, so I did not fight it.

 --R


 On 7/2/13 12:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off
 than when you started.

 --R



 Do you find that WD40 goops up?
 My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it 
evaporates but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My 
in-laws are quite fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right 
close to the water, and it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff 
tends to corrode and seize up.  They spray that stuff all over 
everything, and over time the gunk builds up and it does not move 
anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light spray lube of some sort one 
time, and the various family members told me it was no good.  Go 
figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I get there, so I 
did not fight it.


Give them a can of Rem Oil and see what they say in a year.
When somebody took WD, RIG, and a bunch of gun type oils, sprayed some stripper 
clips, and then stuck them on a coat hanger over the shower for a year, the Rem 
Oil clip had the least rust on it.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Rich Thomas

I suppose, if the applied-to thing does not need to move

--R


On 7/2/13 12:26 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

In a harsh environment like that the wd-40 is better.  It displaces the
water and leaves a protective barrier.  Your LPS will not work as well.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
wrote:


Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it evaporates
but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My in-laws are quite
fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right close to the water, and
it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff tends to corrode and seize
up.  They spray that stuff all over everything, and over time the gunk
builds up and it does not move anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light
spray lube of some sort one time, and the various family members told me it
was no good.  Go figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I
get there, so I did not fight it.

--R


On 7/2/13 12:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:


On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:


Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off
than when you started.

--R




Do you find that WD40 goops up?
My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Curt Raymond
Snowmobile engines and exhausts tend to get all rusty after a couple years, 
they live in a difficult environment after all. That said I know a guy who, 
every spring soaks the whole engine in WD40 as part of his summerizing (like 
winterizing but backwards) procedure. His machines always look like new under 
the hood. The only machine I've ever seen that still had all the paint on the 
exhaust after a couple seasons riding was one of his.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 12:22:49 -0400
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
Message-ID: 51d2fe59.5010...@constructivity.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it 
evaporates but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My 
in-laws are quite fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right 
close to the water, and it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff 
tends to corrode and seize up.  They spray that stuff all over 
everything, and over time the gunk builds up and it does not move 
anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light spray lube of some sort one 
time, and the various family members told me it was no good.  Go 
figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I get there, so I 
did not fight it.

--R
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Randy Bennell
I also wonder if it is better to use the WD40 in the liquid state rather 
than aerosol cans of it.


Randy

On 02/07/2013 1:41 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Snowmobile engines and exhausts tend to get all rusty after a couple years, 
they live in a difficult environment after all. That said I know a guy who, 
every spring soaks the whole engine in WD40 as part of his summerizing (like 
winterizing but backwards) procedure. His machines always look like new under 
the hood. The only machine I've ever seen that still had all the paint on the 
exhaust after a couple seasons riding was one of his.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 12:22:49 -0400
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
Message-ID: 51d2fe59.5010...@constructivity.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yeah it leaves sort of a sticky brown gunky residue, most of it
evaporates but I have noticed that residue after some long time.  My
in-laws are quite fond of it at the Nantucket house, which is right
close to the water, and it gets a lot of salt spray and air, so stuff
tends to corrode and seize up.  They spray that stuff all over
everything, and over time the gunk builds up and it does not move
anyway.  I think I took some LPS or light spray lube of some sort one
time, and the various family members told me it was no good.  Go
figure.  Not my headache except every coupla years if I get there, so I
did not fight it.

--R
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Curt Raymond
For a job like soaking the engine bay of a snowmobile the gallon bottles are 
probably invaluable. Otherwise I doubt it matters, its still liquid in the 
aerosol cans...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 13:45:53 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
Message-ID: 51d31fe1.9060...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I also wonder if it is better to use the WD40 in the liquid state rather 
than aerosol cans of it.

Randy

On 02/07/2013 1:41 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
 Snowmobile engines and exhausts tend to get all rusty after a couple years, 
 they live in a difficult environment after all. That said I know a guy who, 
 every spring soaks the whole engine in WD40 as part of his summerizing (like 
 winterizing but backwards) procedure. His machines always look like new under 
 the hood. The only machine I've ever seen that still had all the paint on the 
 exhaust after a couple seasons riding was one of his.

 -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] 240D no start

2013-07-02 Thread Dieselhead

Shoulda seen the looks Toni used to get jumping the solenoid on our old
240d with a big allen wrench.  Nuttin hotter than a cute chick under the
hood of a German car...lol

Mike


I used a big long screwdriver for a long time.  However i moved up to 
a 18 length of 1/2  copper tubing.  that works well and does not 
leave weld marks on the screwdriver.  It is still in the 240D.


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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Scott Ritchey

Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all hydrocarbon
without aromatic rings.  

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Canfield
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Is fish oil not a lubricant?

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

 LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the
 hood end as well.
 
Craig wrote:
   
But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
 
   Andrew wrote:
  
   But it sure acts like one.
 
  So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
 
  If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a
  lubricant.  LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
 
  --   Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
Right.  Such as fish oil.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all hydrocarbon
 without aromatic rings.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound


 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
 aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
 Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 
  No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Michael
  Canfield
  Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 
  Is fish oil not a lubricant?
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
 
  LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the
  hood end as well.
  
 Craig wrote:

 But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
  
Andrew wrote:
   
But it sure acts like one.
  
   So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
  
   If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a
   lubricant.  LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
  
   --   Philip
  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Turn signal stalk

2013-07-02 Thread OK Don
What Jim said! BTDT!


On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 7:42 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 And go easy!  The difference between stays in the detent now and
 won't come out of the detent now is only a stroke or two of the
 file.

 -- Jim





-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Benz Hogs

BTTT, WRONG.  http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp

As for the claim the basic ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil, it's a 
common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40 
spray include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition 
information included in the MSDS


and http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf



Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'98 ML320 Max (167,xxx mi)

On 7/2/2013 6:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

Right.  Such as fish oil.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:



Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all hydrocarbon
without aromatic rings.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Canfield
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:



No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
The MSDS states between 47 and 58% Aliphatic hydrocarbon.  That does not
say exactly what it is.  It COULD vey well be fish oil and only the
manufacturer knows.  The MSDS also states wd-40 to be non-toxic according
to guidlines.  Seems if it were mostly petroleum distillates it would be
listed as toxic and carcinogenic.
  Using deduction, what other Aliphatic hydrocarbon would work as well to
displace water and be non-toxic?

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 7:29 PM, Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:

 BTTT, WRONG.  
 http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/**household/wd-40.asphttp://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
 
 As for the claim the basic ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil, it's a
 common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40 spray
 include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition information
 included in the MSDS
 
 and 
 http://www.wd40company.com/**files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdfhttp://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf



 Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
 '98 ML320 Max (167,xxx mi)

 On 7/2/2013 6:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

 Right.  Such as fish oil.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all hydrocarbon
 without aromatic rings.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/**Aliphatic_compoundhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound


 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes 
 [mailto:mercedes-bounces@**okiebenz.commercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
 aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
 Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.


 __**_
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Dan Penoff
http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

If... she.. weighs the same as a duck, she's made of wood.

Dan

On Jul 2, 2013, at 7:56 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

 The MSDS states between 47 and 58% Aliphatic hydrocarbon.  That does not
 say exactly what it is.  It COULD vey well be fish oil and only the
 manufacturer knows.  The MSDS also states wd-40 to be non-toxic according
 to guidlines.  Seems if it were mostly petroleum distillates it would be
 listed as toxic and carcinogenic.
  Using deduction, what other Aliphatic hydrocarbon would work as well to
 displace water and be non-toxic?
 
 Mike


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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread OK Don
Parafin ?  That's what I've heard was in it. A typwriter repairman once
told me that he could always tell when someone had sprayed WD40 in their
Selectric --


On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 6:56 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 The MSDS states between 47 and 58% Aliphatic hydrocarbon.  That does not
 say exactly what it is.  It COULD vey well be fish oil and only the
 manufacturer knows.  The MSDS also states wd-40 to be non-toxic according
 to guidlines.  Seems if it were mostly petroleum distillates it would be
 listed as toxic and carcinogenic.
   Using deduction, what other Aliphatic hydrocarbon would work as well to
 displace water and be non-toxic?

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 7:29 PM, Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:

  BTTT, WRONG.  http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/**household/wd-40.asp
 http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
  
  As for the claim the basic ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil, it's a
  common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40
 spray
  include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition information
  included in the MSDS
  
  and http://www.wd40company.com/**files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
 http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
 
 
 
  Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
  '98 ML320 Max (167,xxx mi)
 
  On 7/2/2013 6:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:
 
  Right.  Such as fish oil.
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 
  Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all
 hydrocarbon
  without aromatic rings.
 
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/**Aliphatic_compound
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-bounces@**okiebenz.com
 mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of Michael
  Canfield
  Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 
  Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
  aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
  Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 
  No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
 
 
  __**_
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
Wouldn't paraffin be a solid at room temperature?  Would it stay liquid
with a petroleum distillate to thin it?  I notice an oily residue, though
it is thick.  It really doesn't feel waxy to me.

Mike

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 8:01 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Parafin ?  That's what I've heard was in it. A typwriter repairman once
 told me that he could always tell when someone had sprayed WD40 in their
 Selectric --


 On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 6:56 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  The MSDS states between 47 and 58% Aliphatic hydrocarbon.  That does not
  say exactly what it is.  It COULD vey well be fish oil and only the
  manufacturer knows.  The MSDS also states wd-40 to be non-toxic according
  to guidlines.  Seems if it were mostly petroleum distillates it would be
  listed as toxic and carcinogenic.
Using deduction, what other Aliphatic hydrocarbon would work as well to
  displace water and be non-toxic?
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 7:29 PM, Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:
 
   BTTT, WRONG.  http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/**household/wd-40.asp
  http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp
   
   As for the claim the basic ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil, it's a
   common rumor and one that is easily propagated (because cans of WD-40
  spray
   include no ingredients list), but a glance at the composition
 information
   included in the MSDS
   
   and http://www.wd40company.com/**files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
  http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
  
  
  
   Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
   '98 ML320 Max (167,xxx mi)
  
   On 7/2/2013 6:21 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:
  
   Right.  Such as fish oil.
  
   Mike
   On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
  
  
   Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all
  hydrocarbon
   without aromatic rings.
  
   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/**Aliphatic_compound
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-bounces@**okiebenz.com
  mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
   On Behalf Of Michael
   Canfield
   Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
  
   Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40
 lists
   aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
   Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.
  
   Mike
   On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
  
  
   No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
  
  
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 2013 F150, 19 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 5:01 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Parafin ?  That's what I've heard was in it. A typwriter repairman once
 told me that he could always tell when someone had sprayed WD40 in their
 Selectric --


Was he British?  Paraffin is BE for kerosene.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread ernest breakfield
in my experience with bicycles, i don't use WD40 for anything except 
cleaning stuff off; things that need a lube get a light oil.
WD40 is a Water Dispersant, not a lube. if you don't get it all 
off, it becomes a dirt magnet.



cheers!
e

On 02/Jul/13 09:14, Randy Bennell wrote:

On 01/07/2013 3:33 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Initially, then when it goops up after it dries out you are worse off 
than when you started.


--R




Do you find that WD40 goops up?
My experience with it seems to indicate that it just disappears.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Actually, aliphatic and aromatic compounds consist only of C and H, whereas
fats derived from living organisms are more complex.  These fats and oils
are amenable to saponification (soap making) and esterification (as in
production of biodiesel) because they chemically act as acids in these
reactions.

Fish oil is not classed as an aliphatic hydrocarbon.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Canfield
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 4:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

Right.  Such as fish oil.

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all 
 hydrocarbon without aromatic rings.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound


 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of 
 Michael Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists 
 aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
 Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 
  No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Michael
  Canfield
  Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 
  Is fish oil not a lubricant?
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
 
  LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the 
  hood end as well.
  
 Craig wrote:

 But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
  
Andrew wrote:
   
But it sure acts like one.
  
   So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
  
   If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a lubricant.  
   LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
  
   --   Philip
  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
Maybe not all pf them but apparently shark liver oil is.

squa·lene  (skwln)
n.
A colorless unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon, C30H50, found especially in
human sebum and in the liver oil of sharks, that is an intermediate in the
biosynthesis of cholesterol and is used in biochemical research.
[New Latin Squalus, shark genus (from its occurrence in the liver oil of
sharks) (from Latin squalus, a sea fish) + -ene.]

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 10:39 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net wrote:

 Actually, aliphatic and aromatic compounds consist only of C and H, whereas
 fats derived from living organisms are more complex.  These fats and oils
 are amenable to saponification (soap making) and esterification (as in
 production of biodiesel) because they chemically act as acids in these
 reactions.

 Fish oil is not classed as an aliphatic hydrocarbon.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 4:22 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Right.  Such as fish oil.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 
  Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all
  hydrocarbon without aromatic rings.
 
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Michael Canfield
  Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 
  Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
  aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
  Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  
   No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Michael
   Canfield
   Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
  
   Is fish oil not a lubricant?
  
   Mike
   On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
  
   Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
  
   LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the
   hood end as well.
   
  Craig wrote:
 
  But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
   
 Andrew wrote:

 But it sure acts like one.
   
So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
   
If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a lubricant.
LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
   
--   Philip
   
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Michael Canfield
I guess after reading that again it should say that the aliphatic
hydrocarbon is part of the shark liver oil.  So maybe wd40 is derrived
from fish oil?

Mike
On Jul 2, 2013 10:46 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Maybe not all pf them but apparently shark liver oil is.

 squa·lene  (skwln)
 n.
 A colorless unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon, C30H50, found especially in
 human sebum and in the liver oil of sharks, that is an intermediate in the
 biosynthesis of cholesterol and is used in biochemical research.
 [New Latin Squalus, shark genus (from its occurrence in the liver oil of
 sharks) (from Latin squalus, a sea fish) + -ene.]

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 10:39 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net wrote:

 Actually, aliphatic and aromatic compounds consist only of C and H,
 whereas
 fats derived from living organisms are more complex.  These fats and oils
 are amenable to saponification (soap making) and esterification (as in
 production of biodiesel) because they chemically act as acids in these
 reactions.

 Fish oil is not classed as an aliphatic hydrocarbon.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Michael
 Canfield
 Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 4:22 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

 Right.  Such as fish oil.

 Mike
 On Jul 2, 2013 7:13 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 
  Aliphatic hydrocarbons is a broad category that includes all
  hydrocarbon without aromatic rings.
 
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliphatic_compound
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Michael Canfield
  Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 9:46 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 
  Bt!  Not completely.  Interestingly enough the MSDS for wd40 lists
  aliphatic hydrocarbons as a main ingredient.  Guess what fish oil is?
  Squalene(shark liver oil) is an example.
 
  Mike
  On Jul 2, 2013 1:45 AM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  
   No fish oil in WD40 (wife's tale).  It's petro distillates.
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Michael
   Canfield
   Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 12:51 AM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
  
   Is fish oil not a lubricant?
  
   Mike
   On Jul 2, 2013 12:11 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
  
   Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
  
   LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the
   hood end as well.
   
  Craig wrote:
 
  But WD-40 is not a lubricant.
   
 Andrew wrote:

 But it sure acts like one.
   
So does water.  And Elmers glue - until it sets.
   
If you want lubricant properties, I suggest using a lubricant.
LPS1, LPS2, and LPS3 are _my_ favorites.
   
--   Philip
   
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-02 Thread Fmiser
 Michael wrote:
 
 In a harsh environment like that the wd-40 is better.  It
 displaces the water and leaves a protective barrier.  Your LPS
 will not work as well.

Wow.  Bold statement, especially without specifying _which_ LPS
product.  

LPS3 is a waxy oil stuff that is very good at protecting
from rust, and good at keeping moving parts moving.  In my
experience, WD-40 is vastly inferior at providing a protective
coating.  

Again, in my experience LPS2 is a superior lubricant compared to
WD-40.  I'm not sure how they compare for long term protection
because I use LPS3 for that job.  

LPS1 is a dry lubricate once the carrier evaporates.  I does not
cause dust to stick, so is suitable for things like the 40ft
telescoping pneumatic masts.  It doesn't gum up like WD-40, and in
my experience lubricates at least as well.

I use WD-40 to kill wasps on their nests and to displace water in
ignition systems.  It works well for those jobs, but I personally
wouldn't use it for any task that required lubrication - long or
short term.

My only complaint with LPS is trying to find a local retailer to
sell it...

--Philip

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[MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread dseretakis
I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of the grill 
is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the car seems 
stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Cathey
I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of 
the grill is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the 
car seems stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?


Unhook the handle end of the cable from the wall of the car
and pull on the entire thing.  Pop!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:37 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of the
 grill is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the car
 seems stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?


 Unhook the handle end of the cable from the wall of the car
 and pull on the entire thing.  Pop!


Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot more
effort than you expect.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Jim Cathey
Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot 
more

effort than you expect.


Yes, in this case, DO tug on that!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
LIberally spray inside the cable sheath with WD 40 from the hood end as
well.

On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

  Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot
 more
 effort than you expect.


 Yes, in this case, DO tug on that!

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Curt Raymond
Pfff, thats how I ALWAYS opened the hood on my '81 300TD. It even came with a 
pair of vice grips.

My '85 190D had a nasty cable and kept breaking the under dash lever which 
sadly on the w201 is plastic. Had I kept the car I'd have replaced the cable.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:39:29 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
Message-ID:
    CABHyH=zjh2rfq3urzecqefe-t+0l7hl0rk71n+0jhjhagj2...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:37 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of the
 grill is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the car
 seems stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?


 Unhook the handle end of the cable from the wall of the car
 and pull on the entire thing.  Pop!


Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot more
effort than you expect.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Replacing the hood release cable is a job even a citizen of Washington,
D.C. can accomplish.



On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Pfff, thats how I ALWAYS opened the hood on my '81 300TD. It even came
 with a pair of vice grips.

 My '85 190D had a nasty cable and kept breaking the under dash lever which
 sadly on the w201 is plastic. Had I kept the car I'd have replaced the
 cable.

 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:39:29 -0700
 From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
 Message-ID:
 CABHyH=zjh2rfq3urzecqefe-t+0l7hl0rk71n+0jhjhagj2...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:37 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

  I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of the
  grill is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the car
  seems stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?
 
 
  Unhook the handle end of the cable from the wall of the car
  and pull on the entire thing.  Pop!
 
 
 Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot more
 effort than you expect.

 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.

2013-07-01 Thread Rich Thomas

What about serfs?

--R


On 7/1/13 12:27 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

Replacing the hood release cable is a job even a citizen of Washington,
D.C. can accomplish.



On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


Pfff, thats how I ALWAYS opened the hood on my '81 300TD. It even came
with a pair of vice grips.

My '85 190D had a nasty cable and kept breaking the under dash lever which
sadly on the w201 is plastic. Had I kept the car I'd have replaced the
cable.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:39:29 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D hood release.
Message-ID:
 CABHyH=zjh2rfq3urzecqefe-t+0l7hl0rk71n+0jhjhagj2...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 8:37 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:


I'm trying to pop the hood on a friends 240D. The latch coming out of the

grill is broken and a coat wire attached. The release cable in the car
seems stretched as it won't release the hood. What do I do here?


Unhook the handle end of the cable from the wall of the car
and pull on the entire thing.  Pop!



Yup. I would add, use vice grips, and be prepared for it to take a lot more
effort than you expect.

Alex
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http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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