from:"Holland Phillips"

RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

2016-12-27 Thread Holland Phillips

Larry,
Crows foot sockets can be used with any length extension. And they usually
have quite a bit of extra "meat" on them allowing for some grinding to make
it slimmer.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Ratchets-Sockets/Wrenches2/craftsman-9-24924-1116-crowfoot-wrench-inch-38-drive?infoParam.campaignId=T9F=Cj0KEQiAv4jDBRCC1IvzqqDnkYYBEiQA89utolOgJKP2u5_sqJCYckJXJgukLmHgTt2WKRERh1kRlHgaAg898P8HAQ

~Holland

On Dec 27, 2016 09:45, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

The plastic piece is removable but only after you take the banjo off.
Things were a little seized even after lots and lots of penetrating spray –
which made things a little harder. Can’t use locking pliers to put it
back on though since they basically wreck the banjo.

Holland may be onto something with the ‘crow’s foot socket’ but it would
need to be long and thin to get in there. If I can’t find one, I’ll look
into grinding down cheap open wrench.

[image: Image result for thin long crow's foot socket]

-Larry

*From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
Behalf Of *Chad Rebuck
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:24 PM

*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

Isn't that plastic wiring connector piece removable? And for a thin wrench
I would just buy a cheaper one at Harbor Freight and grind it down but I
don't recall using anything special either. I do remember it was a pain to
get those banjo bolts loose though.

On Dec 27, 2016 11:55 AM, "Holland Phillips" <fasterthan...@pacbell.net>
wrote:

After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot"
socket on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I
replaced both the pumps on my '92, but don't recall which tools were
required, which usually means it wasn't a big deal.

On Dec 27, 2016 08:46, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

This slim adjustable wrench was pretty much useless, they don’t fit under
the plastic piece that holds the wiring connector. I ended up using
locking pliers on the already destroyed banjo tube but would rather have a
tool that actually fits in here for re-assembly. I’ll keep looking for
long thin open end wrenches.

(this is my old one and I have a new pump and will be ordering a new check
valve. Just wanted to clean all this old stuff up and keep them as spares
for future use if needed in a bind.)

-Larry

*From:* Larry Velez
*Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:04 PM
*To:* 'mk2-16v@googlegroups.com' <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
*Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

Just spoke to AutoHauz, they tell me that 1583386514 is the correct part
number and while it looks like the one with the washer is also correct –
they could not confirm that in their system as compatible with a 91 GTI 16V.

Maybe you have a different year?

-Larry

*From:* Larry Velez
*Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:00 PM
*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

Thanks for the part number confirmation Steven. I will double check with
AutohauzAZ what the difference is between 1583386514 and 1587010532 – it is
possible they are the same part but one comes with washers.

I also ordered this thin wrench for getting this damn thing off:
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8SWCB-Adjustable-
WideAzz-Opening/dp/B00VBPY91O/

-Larry

*From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
<mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *Steven Arguello
*Sent:* Thursday, December 22, 2016 11:39 AM
*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if
it's the right one.

11587010532Fuel Pump Check Valve
171044Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet

On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

Hey 16Vers,

Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for
a 91 GTI 16V?

Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.

While I am at it, what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is
obscured by the plastic housing? A narrow adjustable wrench or something
better?

Thanks,

Larry

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990197BA56D65427FE53356C0920%40BY2PR04MB1990.
namprd04.prod.outlook.com
<https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990197BA56D65427FE53356C

RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

2016-12-27 Thread Holland Phillips

After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot" socket on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I replaced both the pumps on my '92, but don't recall which tools were required, which usually means it wasn't a big deal. On Dec 27, 2016 08:46, Larry Velez  wrote:







This slim adjustable wrench was pretty much useless,   they don’t fit under the plastic piece that holds the wiring connector.   I ended up using locking pliers on the already destroyed banjo tube but would rather
 have a tool that actually fits in here for re-assembly.  I’ll keep looking for long thin open end wrenches.

(this is my old one and I have a new pump and will be ordering a new check valve.  Just wanted to clean all this old stuff up and keep them as spares for future use if needed in a bind.)
 

 


 
 
-Larry

 



From: Larry Velez 
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:04 PM
To: 'mk2-16v@googlegroups.com' 
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?


 
Just spoke to AutoHauz,  they tell me that 1583386514 is the correct part number and while it looks like the one with the washer is also correct – they could not confirm that in their system as compatible with a 91 GTI 16V.
 
Maybe you have a different year?
 

 
-Larry

 


From: Larry Velez 
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:00 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?


 
Thanks for the part number confirmation Steven.  I will double check with AutohauzAZ what the difference is between 1583386514 and 1587010532 – it is possible they are the same part but one comes with washers.
 
I also ordered this thin wrench for getting this damn thing off: 

https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8SWCB-Adjustable-WideAzz-Opening/dp/B00VBPY91O/


 
-Larry

 


From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steven Arguello
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 11:39 AM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?


 

This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if it's the right one. 


1    1587010532    Fuel Pump Check Valve
1    71044        Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet


On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:


Hey 16Vers,
 
Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for a 91 GTI 16V?

Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.
While I am at it,  what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is obscured by the plastic housing?  A narrow adjustable wrench or something better?
 
Thanks,
 
Larry
--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990197BA56D65427FE53356C0920%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/FC7E2104-66DE-4A38-B4F5-0CA5109A3CE1%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.






-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19906B361E4864253209B26CC0690%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/400a07ba-83c7-47e0-a16f-9cbb48829457%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] SparkPlug tool fail

2016-11-27 Thread Holland Phillips

I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the
inside of the socket that belongs to the rubber piece. Thoroughly clean the
inside of the socket with brake cleaner first and let it dry. Put the
socket firmly on to the plug/rubber piece and let it cure for a while.
On the extension problem, the detent balls tend to weaken over time/use. I
used to replace my Craftsman extensions every few years, usually after
experiencing problems with removing plugs from my 16V.
There are spark plug sockets available from some of the specialty tool
manufacturers that work better than the ones that use the rubber inserts. I
had SK plug sockets which were better than Craftsman.
I just saw some magnetic plug sockets available on eBay, which might be
worth a try.

~Holland

On Nov 27, 2016 08:19, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> Hey 16vers,
>
>
>
> Yesterday I spent some time on my 16V’s never ending journey to revival.
> With the help of a new local friend (who has four 16V Scirrocos) we
> reinstalled the restored main fuel pump and McGuyvered transfer pump.  Two
> nights ago I removed the spark plugs and poured a cap full of new engine
> oil down the plug holes so the engine would not restart dry when we finally
> tried to start it.  Unfortunately yesterday when finally reinstalling the
> spark plugs,  the rubber boot for the spark plug removal socket stayed on
> the plug and after 30 minutes of trying to remove it – we were defeated.
>
>
>
> So close yet so far,  we were at the final two steps before trying to
> start the engine:  reinstall spark plugs and add fresh gasoline…
>
>
>
> Clearly the Craftman 5/8” (Part #43324)  spark plug removal tool is not of
> high quality.  I have snap-on 11/16” spark plug removal tool (S9727K) which
> seems of higher quality.   I will be ordering a snapon 5/8” spark plug tool
> and throwing my two other 5/8” plug sockets in the trash.
>
>
>
> So now my question – any ideas on how to get the rubber piece out?   The
> spark plug tool won’t grab the plug to screw it out and won’t hold onto the
> rubber to pull it out.
>
>
>
> I am thinking glue might work but I am also afraid of getting the socket
> stuck down there – any tricks to get the socket to stick to the
> extension?   Does anyone have an extension welded onto the socket to avoid
> the socket getting stuck down there?
>
>
>
> Any ideas would be welcome.
>
> Pictures of incident:  https://goo.gl/photos/AqU6SiPWRHewd3Np9
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
> msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990675EC0C7BB763ADF3D3FC08B0%40BY2PR04MB1990.
> namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DqdHQ_eLabQoFx1-DdbDu7gjRHBX11GSN8rZ%3Dp%3DMMRsQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Brake pedal feel- not so good

2016-10-15 Thread Holland Phillips

I seriously doubt your spongy pedal is due to a problem with the
proportioning valve. If you haven't replaced all the flex hoses recently, I
would replace them with stainless braided hoses. They have become much more
cost effective in recent years, and the increase in pedal feel is
remarkable. If that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to start
looking at the master cylinder and calipers.

~Holland

On Oct 15, 2016 08:14, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> In the ’90’s I had a Volvo 740 piece of crap that I loved, mostly because
> of the brakes and the pedal feel. I’ve bled the brakes on the GTi so many
> times that the fluid is brand-new clear now. And it still feels a little
> spongy. I have it in my head that it’s due to the proportioning valve on
> the rear axle. I freed and cleaned it up, but I can’t really test if it’s
> working correctly. So I want to bypass it using female/ female couplers. It
> might or might not make the pedal feel better, but it should make it easier
> for the rears to lock up. I’ll fix that with a proportioning valve.
> And lastly I’d change out the hoses.
> Any thoughts?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
> msgid/mk2-16v/0DAEAD48-31AD-4CA0-A860-93FD2870E5BE%40gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnYrzBc6znL11U7iU3Xc18oYLSR7haBoyXRFBXCJegbdg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Facebook Group

2016-10-05 Thread Holland Phillips

Larry,
Thank you for not transitioning the whole 16V online existence to Facebook.
I left Facebook some time ago for multiple reasons, and prefer not to go
back. And as you know, the email list belonged to me for a number of years,
and therefore it has some sentimental value. I will continue to interact
with members on the email list as I have for almost two decades.
Carry on,

~Holland

On Oct 5, 2016 08:09, "Larry Velez" wrote:

16vers,

In an attempt to bring this group to the 21st century, I started a Facebook
Group where we can more easily share pictures and discussions from our
mobile phones.

If you are interested, please join.

This will not replace the email list which has a long useful archive of
valuable content but will be a supplement that should drive more members to
the email list and both the email list and the group should be mutually
beneficial to each other.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mk216v/

any thoughts or feedback on this experiment are welcome,

Larry

91 GTI 16V

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990636CD8BAB63136E416E0C0C40%40BY2PR04MB1990.
namprd04.prod.outlook.com

.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmMKxfdOi%3DYVVFEVJYecMn4AqwaTDM9rtd-XOMBB%3DQXqw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Interior Trim Tools?

2016-08-01 Thread Holland Phillips

You really need both. Sometimes there are tough spring clips that require
metal to release, other times you're dealing with fragile materials on door
panels, etc.
I forget the names of the companies that sell those types of tools, but
Google is your friend. 

~Holland

On Aug 1, 2016 12:44, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> Any recommendations for a trim tool kit?   Are the cheap plastic ones fine
> or is it worth investing in metal ones?
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990ED92E7266073BDB18FD7C0040%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dr2Xbh1TTADAz3mABdVKsdbjhKebzSSe88jjw4uoVZ5Q%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] wheel dollys

2016-07-29 Thread Holland Phillips

Gee, Matt, I never knew you were from the UK! (tyre)

~Holland

On Jul 29, 2016 10:03, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" 
wrote:

> These dollys are very similar to those found at Harbour Freight with the
> exception that the Amazon version doesn't have the tyre "catch fence" on
> either side of the dolly.  The big issue with any of these dollys are the
> wheels.  Because the wheels are not pneumatic (read: inflatable or
> otherwise soft), they tend to get stuck on floor imperfections and even
> little bits of trash on the floor like tiny nuts and bolts.
>
> From my experience, if your shop floor is smooth and CLEAN, then yes, you
> can spin the car like a top.  That said, I've also found that the shop
> floor is clean about once in every millennia.  At all other times, it takes
> 2 people to move just about any car around.
>
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2016 12:26 PM, Chad Rebuck 
> wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for a way to move/rotate my 16v gli around in my garage to
> store and work on it.  Came across these wheel dollys on amazon that have
> mostly good reviews.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Pentagon-Tools-5060-Tire-Skates/dp/B000UAGDTC/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
>
> The less expensive ones from harbor freight or other similar stores have
> very bad reviews from what I saw.
>
> I no longer have my vw registered or insured so I'm getting closer to
> parting with it.  If you know someone who wants a 16v turbo gli I've got
> one that will be going on craigslist and vwvortex soon I think.  It isn't a
> perfect looking car (ok, quite far from it) but it sure does run well!
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC8uGsBpFiPPHmS_hc2FNY77%3D38Z7Au9eGtQVJ6DNZKE5w%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/789596411.6396513.1469811551300.JavaMail.yahoo%40mail.yahoo.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3D%3DxGhE%2BuD_yF%2BykA0T2GZDUosNKCH2L6ktiau%2Buc-zvg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

RE: [mk2-16v] Testing For Clogged Fuel Lines

2016-07-26 Thread Holland Phillips

That should work. Just supply +12 vdc to  the pump, and make sure that
there is fuel available at the input of the pump. Gravity works well for
this. Remember, virtually all fuel pumps prefer to push rather than pull.

~Holland

On Jul 26, 2016 14:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> I tried the fuel pump relay jumper thing before removing the main fuel
> pump but I may have done that incorrectly.  At this point the main pump is
> removed so I can’t try that again.   The transfer pump was also rebuilt and
> is definitely pumping gasoline to the main fuel pump,  I can hear the fuel
> splashing into the main fuel pump reservoir.
>
>
>
> How would I test the main fuel pump out of the car – have it pump from a
> fuel canister and back to the same fuel canister?
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:46 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] Testing For Clogged Fuel Lines
>
>
>
> I think the sure fire method would be to pull the fuel pump relay, and use
> a jumper across the correct terminals. And have you tested the transfer
> pump to main pump yet? And have you tested the main pump itself following
> your refurb? I've found it's always best to verify everything from the
> beginning, so you're not miss identifying the true problem. Been there,
> done that...
>
> ~Holland
>
>
>
> On Jul 26, 2016 14:12, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> Main pump to fuel distributor is what I suspect might be clogged,  I would
> think that’s the only one that would cause no fuel delivery at the fuel
> distributor.
>
>
>
> I let fuel go bad which I think mucked everything up.   The fuel
> distributor might also be clogged but when disconnecting the line to the
> fuel distributor – nothing came out.  Of course,  it is possible I did not
> test that properly before messing up the banjo connections on the main fuel
> pump which led to this main fuel pump restoration.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:04 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Testing For Clogged Fuel Lines
>
>
>
> Which "main" fuel lines are you concerned about? Transfer pump to main
> pump, main pump to fuel distributor, distributor to injectors? They're sort
> of all "main" fuel lines.
>
> ~Holland
>
>
>
> On Jul 26, 2016 13:54, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> Hi 16ervs,
>
>
>
> In my glacial pace to fix my fuel delivery issues,  I have attempted to
> completely restore the main fuel pump.   I think I am done with that and
> before I try to put it back on – how can I test to see if the main fuel
> lines are clogged?
>
>
>
> Any tips for how to test them?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19906502F5F298AB2ABFA249C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19906502F5F298AB2ABFA249C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%3DqLHv4L3N%3D3fTyuxt1Ys_0sPnQUUtpPz6ZLzRv%2BFG_A%40mail.gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%3DqLHv4L3N%3D3fTyuxt1Ys_0sPnQUUtpPz6ZLzRv%2BFG_A%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsub

RE: [mk2-16v] Testing For Clogged Fuel Lines

2016-07-26 Thread Holland Phillips

I think the sure fire method would be to pull the fuel pump relay, and use
a jumper across the correct terminals. And have you tested the transfer
pump to main pump yet? And have you tested the main pump itself following
your refurb? I've found it's always best to verify everything from the
beginning, so you're not miss identifying the true problem. Been there,
done that...

~Holland

On Jul 26, 2016 14:12, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Main pump to fuel distributor is what I suspect might be clogged,  I would
> think that’s the only one that would cause no fuel delivery at the fuel
> distributor.
>
>
>
> I let fuel go bad which I think mucked everything up.   The fuel
> distributor might also be clogged but when disconnecting the line to the
> fuel distributor – nothing came out.  Of course,  it is possible I did not
> test that properly before messing up the banjo connections on the main fuel
> pump which led to this main fuel pump restoration.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:04 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Testing For Clogged Fuel Lines
>
>
>
> Which "main" fuel lines are you concerned about? Transfer pump to main
> pump, main pump to fuel distributor, distributor to injectors? They're sort
> of all "main" fuel lines.
>
> ~Holland
>
>
>
> On Jul 26, 2016 13:54, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> Hi 16ervs,
>
>
>
> In my glacial pace to fix my fuel delivery issues,  I have attempted to
> completely restore the main fuel pump.   I think I am done with that and
> before I try to put it back on – how can I test to see if the main fuel
> lines are clogged?
>
>
>
> Any tips for how to test them?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19906502F5F298AB2ABFA249C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19906502F5F298AB2ABFA249C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%3DqLHv4L3N%3D3fTyuxt1Ys_0sPnQUUtpPz6ZLzRv%2BFG_A%40mail.gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%3DqLHv4L3N%3D3fTyuxt1Ys_0sPnQUUtpPz6ZLzRv%2BFG_A%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19901FF43FE320967AD88977C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB19901FF43FE320967AD88977C00E0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnu99ufmj01jpSOgrOnmkgNgzXsCyo6q1BS07mMh900zQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] For Sale - Kansas City - 1992 VW Golf GTI 16v

2016-07-18 Thread Holland Phillips

Nice motor! Always wanted to do something like that with mine. But
California would have had my ass.

~Holland

On Jul 18, 2016 7:01 PM, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5683922977.html
>
> (no association with the ad, just ran cross it.)
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/A5AA75E66BE924CF.49d9c32b-d299-4573-be97-572994851781%40mail.outlook.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnHKnBW7HdGZdqw0JLeZbDDL5WMZ3Gdnpb5pgeQsB7WBQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart

2016-07-14 Thread Holland Phillips

Les,
I attended the CANAM race at Laguna in 1974 when Mark Donohue kicked everyone's butt in the 917/30K. Talk about a mobile earthquake! I was so amazed, I went to Riverside the following week to see the same thing happen again. There were reports back then that in quali trim, they were putting out close to 2000HP. That thing with Donohue driving just destroyed the McClarens.
Sadly it also destroyed the CANAM series, and was pretty much the beginning of the end of true run what ya brung professional road auto racing of all descriptions. 
On Jul 14, 2016 12:46, Les Noriel <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:Holland,Years ago, I attended the Monterey Historics when Porsche was the featured marque. You are right, watching and listening to those vintage Porsches go around the track, the sound is incredible. On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 7:25 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphillips@gmail.com> wrote:Wowzers! If you could pick it up for around 500K, it would be a cool fixer upper! Ever hear a 918 under WOT? Oh my god, un flippin real! 
~Holland
On Jul 13, 2016 18:20, "Larry Velez" <Larry@sinu.com> wrote:

Here is a fun listing.  A million dollar Porsche: 
http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/26559066

Since the auction is ‘on approval’ the insurance company would probably want to see at leask $500K for this car to let it go.  Getting
 repair parts for such a rare car would probably be super challening.

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Larry Velez
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 2:11 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] CoPart

Les,

CoPart is basically a software company.  They took the old business of a junkyard and added a layer of software and brought the auction process online.  They now run large
 yards across the country and also work with local yards to be the marketplace for salvaged (and sometimes just used) cars.   They have done a good job of building out the software to run the auctions online weekly and like Ebay there is a community of people
 making money from their marketplace as they buy and restore or part out cars much more efficiently than if you had to drive to a local yard.   They will even ship a car to many of the other states efficiently because they are sending multiple cars between
 their own yards regularly.  I think they have a couple of competitors trying to do the same thing LKQ and iaai.com are two.

As for Mk1/Mk2 hybrids like the Cabrio – they probably suffered from their Frankenstein design – sort of like the VW Fox.

-Larry

From:
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Les Noriel
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 1:37 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart

I once had a 92 cabriolet. It wasn't my favorite MK1. Although it was probably the least problematic of all the MK1s I'd owned in the past. It just didn't have that tight feel of the Scirocco or the Rabbit.

Les

On Jul 13, 2016 10:33 AM, "Les Noriel" <les.noriel@gmail.com> wrote:

I've never heard of Copart. Apparently they're being auctioned. Is it similar to eBay motors?  Or is it asset liquidation site?
Les
On Jul 13, 2016 9:32 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphillips@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Actually, two of the three are technically Mk1's, since there were no Mk2 Cabrios.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Jul 13, 2016 09:28, "Larry Velez" <Larry@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> Was surprised to see Mk2s on CoPart.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Figured they would not get such old cars.
>>
>>  
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to 
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at 
https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990132578F744562EA7C52FC0310%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
>> For more options, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to 
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at 
https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dy-zFqwFCNWEhNEs%2BMOu8D1dGfFrzdMRr1qku9BEC5pg%40mail.gmail.com.
>
> For more options, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed t

Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart

2016-07-14 Thread Holland Phillips

Led,
No,  that was a Carrera GT that Walker died in. The GT is a much more
visceral car without a lot of driver nannies, and a real 6 speed manual.
Leno also crashed a similar Carrera GT. You'd have to almost try to crash a
918...

~Holland

On Jul 14, 2016 12:43, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Isn't that the same model Porsche that lost control in Santa Clarita and
> took the life of Paul Walker? It's a different color
>  It's one of the most visually stunning Porsche's in my opinion.
>
> But I heard they are very unstable at high speed. Along those lines, Jay
> Leno test drove one on the track and lost control of it on one of the high
> speed banks. Apparently that is not an uncommon occurrence in this model.
>
> Those are worth more than my house so it is unlikely I'll ever get a
> chance to drive one.
>
> -Les
>
> On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 6:20 PM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
>> Here is a fun listing.  A million dollar Porsche:
>> http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/26559066
>>
>>
>>
>> Since the auction is ‘on approval’ the insurance company would probably
>> want to see at leask $500K for this car to let it go.  Getting repair parts
>> for such a rare car would probably be super challening.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Larry Velez
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 13, 2016 2:11 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] CoPart
>>
>>
>>
>> Les,
>>
>>
>>
>> CoPart is basically a software company.  They took the old business of a
>> junkyard and added a layer of software and brought the auction process
>> online.  They now run large yards across the country and also work with
>> local yards to be the marketplace for salvaged (and sometimes just used)
>> cars.   They have done a good job of building out the software to run the
>> auctions online weekly and like Ebay there is a community of people making
>> money from their marketplace as they buy and restore or part out cars much
>> more efficiently than if you had to drive to a local yard.   They will even
>> ship a car to many of the other states efficiently because they are sending
>> multiple cars between their own yards regularly.  I think they have a
>> couple of competitors trying to do the same thing LKQ and iaai.com are
>> two.
>>
>>
>>
>> As for Mk1/Mk2 hybrids like the Cabrio – they probably suffered from
>> their Frankenstein design – sort of like the VW Fox.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *Les Noriel
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 13, 2016 1:37 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart
>>
>>
>>
>> I once had a 92 cabriolet. It wasn't my favorite MK1. Although it was
>> probably the least problematic of all the MK1s I'd owned in the past. It
>> just didn't have that tight feel of the Scirocco or the Rabbit.
>>
>> Les
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2016 10:33 AM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've never heard of Copart. Apparently they're being auctioned. Is it
>> similar to eBay motors?  Or is it asset liquidation site?
>>
>> Les
>> On Jul 13, 2016 9:32 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Actually, two of the three are technically Mk1's, since there were no
>> Mk2 Cabrios.
>> >
>> > ~Holland
>> >
>> > On Jul 13, 2016 09:28, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Was surprised to see Mk2s on CoPart.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Figured they would not get such old cars.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> >> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990132578F744562EA7C52FC0310%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
>&g

RE: [mk2-16v] CoPart

2016-07-13 Thread Holland Phillips

Wowzers! If you could pick it up for around 500K, it would be a cool fixer
upper! Ever hear a 918 under WOT? Oh my god, un flippin real!

~Holland
On Jul 13, 2016 18:20, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Here is a fun listing.  A million dollar Porsche:
> http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/26559066
>
>
>
> Since the auction is ‘on approval’ the insurance company would probably
> want to see at leask $500K for this car to let it go.  Getting repair parts
> for such a rare car would probably be super challening.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Larry Velez
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 13, 2016 2:11 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] CoPart
>
>
>
> Les,
>
>
>
> CoPart is basically a software company.  They took the old business of a
> junkyard and added a layer of software and brought the auction process
> online.  They now run large yards across the country and also work with
> local yards to be the marketplace for salvaged (and sometimes just used)
> cars.   They have done a good job of building out the software to run the
> auctions online weekly and like Ebay there is a community of people making
> money from their marketplace as they buy and restore or part out cars much
> more efficiently than if you had to drive to a local yard.   They will even
> ship a car to many of the other states efficiently because they are sending
> multiple cars between their own yards regularly.  I think they have a
> couple of competitors trying to do the same thing LKQ and iaai.com are
> two.
>
>
>
> As for Mk1/Mk2 hybrids like the Cabrio – they probably suffered from their
> Frankenstein design – sort of like the VW Fox.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *Les Noriel
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 13, 2016 1:37 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart
>
>
>
> I once had a 92 cabriolet. It wasn't my favorite MK1. Although it was
> probably the least problematic of all the MK1s I'd owned in the past. It
> just didn't have that tight feel of the Scirocco or the Rabbit.
>
> Les
>
> On Jul 13, 2016 10:33 AM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I've never heard of Copart. Apparently they're being auctioned. Is it
> similar to eBay motors?  Or is it asset liquidation site?
>
> Les
> On Jul 13, 2016 9:32 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Actually, two of the three are technically Mk1's, since there were no
> Mk2 Cabrios.
> >
> > ~Holland
> >
> > On Jul 13, 2016 09:28, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Was surprised to see Mk2s on CoPart.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Figured they would not get such old cars.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> >> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990132578F744562EA7C52FC0310%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com
> .
> >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> > To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dy-zFqwFCNWEhNEs%2BMOu8D1dGfFrzdMRr1qku9BEC5pg%40mail.gmail.com
> .
> >
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>

Re: [mk2-16v] CIS-E: Cracked fuel reservoir and replacement w high pressure in line fuel pump

2016-06-11 Thread Holland Phillips

If it were me, I would fabricate a new reservoir out of 6061. It would
require TIG welding, but the fix would be permanent. As you mentioned, the
other options would be much more expensive, or have the potential for being
problematic.

~Holland
On Jun 11, 2016 19:09, "Denis Goldman"  wrote:

> Plastic fuel reservoir where main fuel pump slips into is cracked at the
> seam.  Four years ago I JB Welded it and it held up.  Last year it started
> dripping again, so I refixed it.  And now it's dripping again.  I'm done
> repairing it.
>
> I don't think a new/NOS unit exists on this planet.  Lots of used ones,
> but each can have the brittle plastic/seam split issue eventually.
>
> So I see two options:
>
> 1) fabricate a new reservoir, with return line nipples, etc And use
> the existing fuel pump.   Would have to made out of gasoline safe plastic
> (not pvc or abs, but rather hdpe or similar), or out of metal (6061 3"
> diameter aluminum tube with 0.125 thick end plates is about $20 from online
> metal supply's).
>
> 2) scrap the entire assembly, pump, fuel accumulator, etc and go with an
> aftermarket Walbro-type high pressure in-line pump ($75 or so)... Still
> retaining the stock lift/transfer pump.
>
> Other options might involve junking CIS-E entirely and going megasquirt,
> carbs, or upgrade to CIS-E motronic, but all of those options are cost
> prohibitive for this car and my preferences.
>
> There are lots and lots of stories of mk2's using mk3's tank and pump
> (mk3's had 1 main pump in the tank as opposed to mk2's in tank low pressure
> pump and high pressure main pump) But these (successful) stories are
> all in the later mk2's where either digifiant or cis-e motronic is involved
> (both are lower pressure systems at 40-50psi, whereas plain cis-e
> needs 80+psi to keep the mechanical injectors open).
>
> Research on using an aftermarket in-line high pressure fuel pump with
> cis-e is mixed...hard to tell if the bad experiences I am reading about are
> due to the individual not properly plumbing the return lines/excess
> pressure from transfer pump/etc.
>
> I can't believe I am the first person to be in this position on the
> list... What have others done?   Any driveability issues, hot/cold start
> issues, etc?
>
> Thanks!!!
> Denis
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABdgnr6ifc6y7nayB3%3D8-0KEBrZimadPAU2WhD9RsE-xAP04eg%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DvRWJn4qdBmgWHrkoHUHAZCA71eOorD0TV7dXSdSFacg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Article: The Ten Best Classic Cars to Drive Daily

2016-05-29 Thread Holland Phillips

That list truly begs the question - What constitutes a classic car?
#1 - Honda CRX? Really?
#2 - Datsun 240Z? Getting there, especially the 1970 models with manual.
#3 - Alfa Romeo 105/115, also known as the GTV. Also getting there. Had 2
friends in high school, ones Mother had a '66 1600, the other had a '71
2000, which was fuel injected. Nice cars, especially the '71.
#4 - Miata?? Not now, not ever.
#5 - First gen Mustang? No doubt. The original Pony Car. My Mother bought a
'66 notch back new. She got the 200ci 6 with C4 auto. Not the most
desirable, and I was infuriated about her choice of drive train, and body
style. I wanted the fast back, and the K code 271HP 289 with 4 speed.
#6 - Toyota FJ60? Maybe. I hear the original FJ40's are becoming more
desirable.
#7 - Mkl/ll GTI? Classic? As much as I love them, calling them classics is
a stretch.
#8 - BMC Mini? In Cooper S form, I put them in the same space as the GTI.
#9 - Volvo 242?? Worse than #4.
#10 - Mercedes W113 230/250/280 SL.
The most classic of all listed. The prices of those has increased in the
past few years. Probably my favorite of the Mercedes 2 seat sports cars for
that era.

~Holland

#7 on this list:
http://petrolicious.com/the-ten-best-classic-cars-to-drive-daily

-Larry

91 GTI 16V

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990FFD492D069137FE990B8C0440%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com

.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%3DUyWrh9qg-T0Tsy3AAXvyKYz5rCZmZnJ6PnhNO4tWRw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] tranny popping out of fifth gear, can it be mounts or linkage?

2016-05-29 Thread Holland Phillips

Until you figure out exactly what's going on, I strongly suggest that you
don't use 5th gear. It may be your shift linkage needs a rebuild, and
possibly engine and transmission mounts. If that's the case, the
transmission may not be going all the way into 5th, and allowing it to pop
out of gear could cause internal damage.
The other possibility is that there's already an internal problem with the
gearbox. Either way, it sounds like you need to deal with linkage and
mounts. If it still pops out of 5th, then your problem is internal. But at
least then once the gearbox internals are sorted, you won't be likely to re
damage anything.

~Holland
On May 29, 2016 9:26 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i have a jetta i replaced all shifter parts with after i got it to tighten
> things up.  my brother had fifth gear blow on it once when gear popped and
> he held it in a couple more times and it grenaded.
>
> gti i got back on road popped out of fifth today.  it stayed in with
> little pedal but popped when i hit the gas?
>
> with car in fifth i can move lever like 4 inches easy forward and back
> before it feels like its moving anything.
>
> i cant remember jetta feel since im out of town but this seems loose
> regardless.
>
> i recall having issues in jetta with its old original parts and mounts not
> letting me hit gears right.
>
> i just noticed i had to reach for reverse with a little grind and clunk.
>
> i did not replace any mounts and engine does seem to move allot.
>
> just curious if its possible motor shift can yank out of fifth?
>
> also forgot i drained tranny fluid when i got car and pit in redline gl4
> and level is fine still after a few thousand miles.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/5795b48c-e248-4ea7-b832-879e1524ac1a%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dm72-FP7gb-zg7N87zYUb9oEQCrd0MzQdb7Gqm0ZRSJA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] tranny popping out of fifth gear, can it be mounts or linkage?

2016-05-29 Thread Holland Phillips

On May 29, 2016 10:00 PM, wrote:

> Until you figure out exactly what's going on, I strongly suggest that you
> don't use 5th gear. It may be your shift linkage needs a rebuild, and
> possibly engine and transmission mounts. If that's the case, the
> transmission may not be going all the way into 5th, and allowing it to pop
> out of gear could cause internal damage.
> The other possibility is that there's already an internal problem with the
> gearbox. Either way, it sounds like you need to deal with linkage and
> mounts. If it still pops out of 5th, then your problem is internal. But at
> least then once the gearbox internals are sorted, you won't be likely to re
> damage anything.
>
> ~Holland
> On May 29, 2016 9:26 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> i have a jetta i replaced all shifter parts with after i got it to
>> tighten things up.  my brother had fifth gear blow on it once when gear
>> popped and he held it in a couple more times and it grenaded.
>>
>> gti i got back on road popped out of fifth today.  it stayed in with
>> little pedal but popped when i hit the gas?
>>
>> with car in fifth i can move lever like 4 inches easy forward and back
>> before it feels like its moving anything.
>>
>> i cant remember jetta feel since im out of town but this seems loose
>> regardless.
>>
>> i recall having issues in jetta with its old original parts and mounts
>> not letting me hit gears right.
>>
>> i just noticed i had to reach for reverse with a little grind and clunk.
>>
>> i did not replace any mounts and engine does seem to move allot.
>>
>> just curious if its possible motor shift can yank out of fifth?
>>
>> also forgot i drained tranny fluid when i got car and pit in redline gl4
>> and level is fine still after a few thousand miles.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/5795b48c-e248-4ea7-b832-879e1524ac1a%40googlegroups.com
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkqd%2BgAg7U1TundWrGipKWZHf5_ApTbBFNi7YqGL%3DTAbA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Hatch struts

2016-05-06 Thread Holland Phillips

As I recall, the cylinder or thick side goes down, or attaches to the car
body. The piston attaches to the hatch.

~Holland
On May 6, 2016 12:11, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> Scored a new pair of hatch struts, the instructions only say to install
> the same way the old ones were. I don’t trust the PO too much. What is the
> correct way, thick side up or down?
> Thanks
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/94FCCE5E-949A-49A6-A087-A3A0D17D68FB%40gmail.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkKDRRwcTdE4X%3D6%3DgRdwfeJcUXWyrabFiM8Y-SzyvSnHg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] OT: Question of the week

2016-04-26 Thread Holland Phillips

Sorry, I just got this and had to share.
And yes, I have a lot of email addresses, some of which are over 25 years old...
-- Forwarded message --From: Holland Phillips <h...@pacbell.net>Date: Apr 26, 2016 08:01Subject: Fwd: Does your toilet glow?To: fasterthan...@pacbell.netCc:
~Holland
-- Forwarded message --From: The Grommet <folks@em.thegrommet.com>Date: Apr 26, 2016 07:26Subject: Does your toilet glow?To: hjp@pacbell.netCc:

It can, in eight colors. Shop Now.Trouble Viewing? Click Here.

FREE SHIPPING on orders over $50*

WHAT'S NEWGIFTSFEATURESEARN $10

04.26.2016

IllumiBowl - Motion Activated Toilet Light

Nighttime bathroom trips, now illuminated. This motion-activated light shines into the toilet, guiding you without blinding you.
Shop Now

InRoad Toys PlayTape - Roads & RailsKids have no shortage of toy cars, trucks, and trains. Now, there’s an easy, portable way for kids to lay down tracks. Shop Now
SHARE:

FiberFix Repair Wraps and Patches $12.99

Hang It Perfect Picture Hanging Tool $29.95

Bee's Knees All-Purpose Household Wax $18.95

Kelvin Tools Urban Super Tool $29.95

My Paint Saint Paintbrush in a Can $14.95

Bondic Liquid Plastic Welder Starting at $19.95

The Perfect Black and Tan - Beer Layering ToolLayer multiple beers in one glass for more complex flavors and a striking visual effect. With this tool, all you need to do is pour. Shop Now

Re: [mk2-16v] Struts & Springs

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

I'm pretty sure that from the factory, all four lower strut bolts are
identical. I recall that New Dimensions used to sell the special bolts
which provide the adjustabilty. They were sold in pairs, since most people
were just interested in the ability to set the camber to factory specs, or
to add a small amount of negative camber. I wanted more negative camber
than just one bolt provided, so I bought two pair, which allowed me to get
a bit more negative camber. I seem to recall that some VW dealer parts
departments sold the bolts as well under a factory part number. I think the
intention was to allow setting camber after collision repairs.

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 16:23, "Jack Simon" <crabs...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The bolts and nuts that hold the strut to the wheel bearing housing are
> one of two sizes, I believe the size of the shaft of the bolt is 11mm and
> 12mm, the thinner one allowing for camber adjustment. Torque nuts with
> 19mm hex head to 59 ft. lb. and torque the 18mm hex head to 70 ft. lb. Any
> VW dealer with a decent parts department old timer (if there are any left!)
> can help you out.  Both of them have a VW part numberJack
>
> On 25 Apr 2016, at 18:03, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> Bottom line is I would get 4 of the adjustable front camber bolts, and
> have the car realigned after you install the bolts.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/D6F2216B-3023-4A7E-B508-9D59E8DC18C2%40gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/D6F2216B-3023-4A7E-B508-9D59E8DC18C2%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkEJxb0aMqKP1OdefkiV7M8oNSga864wythuWfDv9-Kkg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Struts & Springs

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

Well, you have some issues. Your front camper is way off side to side. From
the factory, it was not adjustable. You can make it adjustable by getting
some special lower strut mount bolts, which will give you some
adjustability. If you change both bolts on each side, you should have about
4 degrees total adjustment. Having -1.4 deg on one side and +0.7 on the
other, the car won't feel right, and not handle well, not to mention poor
uneven tire wear. If you don't drive your car hard around corners, setting
the front camber to around -.25 deg should give you good tire wear, and
good overall handling. If you like to do some hard cornering, going to -1.0
--1.5 deg will give you better turn in, and keep the outer edges of the
tires from wearing. Now, caster is not adjustable from the factory either,
but in order to make it so requires installing adjustable caster/camber
plates as your upper strut mount. This requires modification of the strut
towers. Your caster readings are fine for a street car, and they don't need
to be as perfectly even as camber for the car to drive/handle just fine. If
you were building an autocross or track car, adding about +3 deg caster
would be desirable, since it promotes better self centering of the
steering. The rears have no adjustabilty from the factory. It requires
shimming, which is not an easy task, but can be done, again if you were
going for autocross or track performance.
Bottom line is I would get 4 of the adjustable front camber bolts, and have
the car realigned after you install the bolts. On your front/rear diagonal
damping issues, probably new shocks and struts are in order. If you want
high quality rebound adjustable struts/shocks, I always ran Koni Sports,
which are relatively affordable, and last forever. The aren't harsh, and
you can crank the rebound damping up until it drives like a slot car, but
it will be a little harsh at that point.

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 14:21, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> I had the front wheels aligned, I replaced the rack over the winter and
> wasn’t even close with my measured alignment. Steering feels great, but
> everything else is out of spec. Attached is the print out that they gave
> me. I’ve never messed with any of those adjustments and have no idea how
> it’s done. i assumed it was all adjustable and that it was part of the
> alignment, my guy disagreed (typical corporate shop mentality) and said
> that he could modify the existing parts to make them adjustable. He went on
> to try and sell me a complete set of dampers and springs. As I’m not sure
> of how it’s done I didn’t pursue it, I was happy it was aligned.
> Are the rears adjustable at all?
> If the rims are bent, does that throw off the whole alignment? Mine are
> all bent.
>
> Also, the front left and rear right feel mushy and unresponsive. The other
> ends are rock solid, like they always were. The combination of soft and
> hard diagonally feels terrible, it sort of yaws or teeter-totters
> diagonally. So maybe I do need a set of dampers and springs, or is it
> related to the camber being so off. It has Neuspeed progressive springs,
> 1.5” lowered, not sure of the shocks. I was thinking of looking into
> coilovers with adjustable dampers. I did a quick search and it looks like
> there are a lot of crappy cheap options. Keeping in mind that I have a kid
> in college and another 2 on the way, what can anyone recommend?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/DF8B8B35-0F13-4A81-9F55-F3F31C119B42%40gmail.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk%2BNW9Eh%3Dgmy8Rx1RDsuoVn_yRDNO%3DvAME5H7noUDxKMQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

Hence the reason that so many states are adopting CARB standards defacto,
which solves the inconsistent problem, and for the most part, not in a good
way for the owners of post 1974 pre OBD2 vehicles. Under CARB standards, if
you install say, a Chevy LS3 engine in your '68 Camaro, you must use all
the emissions hardware applicable to the year of the LS engine, and pass
tail pipe standards for that year as well. These days, if you want to build
a hot rod, and not have catalytic converters hanging off the end of your
headers, you have to move to South Dakota...

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 10:09, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

Yeah, I'm fortunate to live in a rural county where all my neighbors seem
to own tractors.  With the exception of my F350, seemingly ALL the
one-tonne trucks around me have "stacks" and "blow coal".  My truck blows
coal but it's hidden underneath and I don't advertise my sympathies for the
loss of the Prophet Dale.

In all seriousness, I don't have a problem with emissions testing provided
that it's done intelligently.  Unfortunately the execution was so poor by
the Federal Government that there are countless loopholes for virtually
every vehicle on the planet.  Some vehicles used the CEL as an early
warning system (thank you VAG) while others used the CEL as a "If it fell
off the car, throw a light" (thank you Honduh).  Unfortunately the
standards are so widely variable until recently that it's almost funny.


On Monday, April 25, 2016 1:00 PM, Holland Phillips <
hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:


Gee Matt, all this time I thought you lived in the U.S.! ;-). Seriously,
California is, and has been from the beginning of the smog era, thanks to
CARB, just the absolute worst when it comes to emissions testing. And
unfortunately for the rest of the country, many states have followed suit,
and more join the party all the time. My guess is that in the too near
future, the whole thing will become federalized.
~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 09:45, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

What a saga!!  I'm glad I don't live in a communist country where smog
inspections are run by Nazis.


On Monday, April 25, 2016 12:31 PM, Holland Phillips <
hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:


Congratulations!  Persistence always pays off in the end. I think most of
the smog guys these days are so used to the OBD2 cars, that when someone
shows up with an older vehicle like yours, it's just a thorn in their
shorts that they don't want to deal with, so they treat you like crap so
you'll just go away.
~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 09:21, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second
knock sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.
 never detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it
seems happy at current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the
pedal.  car is definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.

i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to
find out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about
the check engine light.

this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out
to his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a
federal emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars
from this generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.
 he smogged me on the spot and i passed!

i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to
finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this
car needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed
a light blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a
good shop when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these
guys at face value.

thanks for all the help!!!

i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.
 i really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions,
never will buy an old gasser again!


On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:

It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2
knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors.
The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just
find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really
don't have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother
idle is probably due to the stock cams.
~Holland
On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

anybody know how long it should take to throw a code?  i just warmed the
car up one cycle on the driveway and it didn't throw any codes after, i'm
guessing i have to go take

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

Gee Matt, all this time I thought you lived in the U.S.! ;-). Seriously,
California is, and has been from the beginning of the smog era, thanks to
CARB, just the absolute worst when it comes to emissions testing. And
unfortunately for the rest of the country, many states have followed suit,
and more join the party all the time. My guess is that in the too near
future, the whole thing will become federalized.

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 09:45, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

> What a saga!!  I'm glad I don't live in a communist country where smog
> inspections are run by Nazis.
>
>
> On Monday, April 25, 2016 12:31 PM, Holland Phillips <
> hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Congratulations!  Persistence always pays off in the end. I think most of
> the smog guys these days are so used to the OBD2 cars, that when someone
> shows up with an older vehicle like yours, it's just a thorn in their
> shorts that they don't want to deal with, so they treat you like crap so
> you'll just go away.
> ~Holland
> On Apr 25, 2016 09:21, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second
> knock sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.
>  never detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it
> seems happy at current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the
> pedal.  car is definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.
>
> i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to
> find out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about
> the check engine light.
>
> this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out
> to his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a
> federal emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars
> from this generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.
>  he smogged me on the spot and i passed!
>
> i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to
> finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this
> car needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed
> a light blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a
> good shop when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these
> guys at face value.
>
> thanks for all the help!!!
>
> i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.
>  i really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions,
> never will buy an old gasser again!
>
>
> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has
> 2 knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both
> sensors. The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I
> would just find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You
> really don't have any other options at this point. The reduced power and
> smoother idle is probably due to the stock cams.
> ~Holland
> On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> anybody know how long it should take to throw a code?  i just warmed the
> car up one cycle on the driveway and it didn't throw any codes after, i'm
> guessing i have to go take it on a nasty drive?
>
> i am close to taking it in for smog.  i had to go back and trace wires,
> etc. and fix previous owner crap.  i was worried about the moving timing
> light so i got another distributor, cap, rotor and wires with the #4 sensor
> that i didn't have, and the car still wanders with the light making it hard
> for me to get exact :(  i tried to leave it in a happy spot based on sound.
>
> it turns out i have 2 knock sensors attached to the block.  #1 inbetween 1
> and 2 cylinders.  then #2 between 2 and 3!!!  i'm guessing this is
> incorrect no matter the engine and either it gets one over on the left
> side, or a second one to the right of the breather?  this is probably going
> to confused the car if i leave it as is?
>
> they had #2 sensor hooked up correctly to the harness.  but they hooked #1
> up to the ignition reference sensor from #4 spark plug, and they cut the
> harness side of #1 knock sensor.  that damn car really did run great to me,
> it was faster then than it is now, just a
>
> ...
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.c

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: Starting a car that has not run in a long time

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

Diesel fuel is inherently more stable than gasoline, at least it used to
be. I've heard some stories about the new low sulfur diesel not being as
stable as the old stuff. That said, it seems the main thing with diesel, is
water in the fuel, but I think most current diesel vehicles have water
traps that you drain periodically.

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 09:14, "damac2004"  wrote:

yet another reason for me to stick to old vw mechanical diesels :)

if there was fuel left over i will just crank them and run them.  if not i
could bring an electrical pump in a bucket of fuel to force some new
fuel/atf into the system, maybe sit for a day if the fuel system is crusty
and then run it.  i brought back a few to life this way including a couple
that had a bad incident with some waste vegetable oil cocktail and were
very crusty inside.


On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 8:32:26 AM UTC-7, Larry Velez wrote:
>
> There is a website I frequent called Quora where people post questions and
> others answer them.  For some reason this site has attracted many high
> profile and top experts in many fields who regularly answer questions.
>
>
>
> Today I ran across a question about whether it was safe to jump start an
> old car that has been sitting:
> https://www.quora.com/Is-it-safe-to-jump-start-an-old-car-that-has-not-been-started-for-many-years
>
>
>
> Now that our cars are getting long in the tooth, there are bound to be
> more and more of them that have been sitting.   One person’s summary seems
> like a useful starting point.  I wish I had known this when I tried to
> start my 16V which was sitting for a few months – if I had drained the old
> fuel – I might have saved myself a world of headaches since then on my
> journey to get her back on the road.
>
>
>
> In any case, here is one of the answers to the question:
>
>
>
> There are some universal truths:
>
> 1) you can't just start it and run it. The gas is not useable, the fuel
> hose is very likely going to crumble and explode as soon as you get it
> under pressure, there is unimaginable corrosion in the electrical contacts.
>
> 2) bring a trailer. (In fact, there's a whole web site called Bring a
> Trailer  just for that reason)
>
> 3) prepare to spend a large amount of time and modest amount of money
> getting it to the point that you can drive it enough to figure out what
> else it needs. Last time I did this ('62 Porsche Cabriolet, not shown)
> here's what I did:
>
> a. drained the fuel tank, pulled it, had it cleaned at a radiator shop,
> discovered leaks, had them fixed
>
> b. replaced all the rubber fuel hose and fuel filter
>
> c. pulled the carbs and mechanical fuel pump, cleaned and rebuilt both
> (technically "all three" since there were two carbs)
>
> d. pulled and tossed the plugs, plug wires, points, condenser, distributor
> cap and coil, replacing them with new
>
> e. made sure the brakes weren't stuck in the "on" position or rusted to
> the drums (very common)
>
> f. pulled the wheel cylinders, rubber brake hoses, and master cylinder and
> rebuilt or replaced as was necessary, then reinstalled and bled the brakes
>
> g. replaced the dry-rotted tires and valve stems
>
> h. figured out if the car had been converted from 6V to 12V (it hadn't),
> got a 6V battery, hooked it up and started chasing electrical shorts
>
> i. drained what was left of the oil, cleaned the strainer, suctioned out
> the oil filter can (hard body, with replaceable paper cartridge filter),
> filled with 30w high-detergent oil, and cranked it for a while (5-10 min),
> checking oil pressure with mechanical gauge as I did so. Drained oil,
> replaced oil and filter.
>
> j. connected the ignition electricals at the engine
>
> k. primed the carbs, shot some starting fluid down the barrels, and fired
> it up.
>
> It still spat nasty black smoke, part of a mouse nest (maybe some mouse
> parts too) and was generally unhappy for a while. I stopped it, facepalmed
> for having forgotten to adjust the valves, waited until it was dead cold,
> did that, and re-started.
>
> After that, it was fine.
>
> Well.
>
> At least, until I decided to restore it
>
> And that's pretty much how you need to approach your "old car, hasn't run
> in a long time" car. Doing otherwise will eventually put you back on
> exactly this path, perhaps with an intervening engine rebuild or hospital
> visit.
>
>
>
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/2ea6ce2f-8b86-42cc-a116-d1ab8c0ac61b%40googlegroups.com

Re: [mk2-16v] Starting a car that has not run in a long time

2016-04-25 Thread Holland Phillips

The "how to" you quoted is probably a little extreme for most of us. It
sounds like the car he was dealing with probably sat for decades. It also
has a glaring no no. Where he says he cranked the engine for 5 - 10 minutes
to verify oil pressure would likely fry the starter. You generally never
want to continuously crank an engine for more than about 30 seconds,
otherwise you risk overheating the starter motor. And realistically, if you
don't have oil pressure in 30 seconds, you've got problems. One thing we
don't have to deal with is corrosion in the fuel tank itself, since they
are plastic. That's not to say it shouldn't be pulled and drained, and
maybe rinsed out with fresh fuel prior to re installing it.
I think the message is to regularly start a car if possible, and to drain
the fuel system BEFORE you anticipate a lengthy period of inoperation.

~Holland
On Apr 25, 2016 08:32, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> There is a website I frequent called Quora where people post questions and
> others answer them.  For some reason this site has attracted many high
> profile and top experts in many fields who regularly answer questions.
>
>
>
> Today I ran across a question about whether it was safe to jump start an
> old car that has been sitting:
> https://www.quora.com/Is-it-safe-to-jump-start-an-old-car-that-has-not-been-started-for-many-years
>
>
>
> Now that our cars are getting long in the tooth, there are bound to be
> more and more of them that have been sitting.   One person’s summary seems
> like a useful starting point.  I wish I had known this when I tried to
> start my 16V which was sitting for a few months – if I had drained the old
> fuel – I might have saved myself a world of headaches since then on my
> journey to get her back on the road.
>
>
>
> In any case, here is one of the answers to the question:
>
>
>
> There are some universal truths:
>
> 1) you can't just start it and run it. The gas is not useable, the fuel
> hose is very likely going to crumble and explode as soon as you get it
> under pressure, there is unimaginable corrosion in the electrical contacts.
>
> 2) bring a trailer. (In fact, there's a whole web site called Bring a
> Trailer  just for that reason)
>
> 3) prepare to spend a large amount of time and modest amount of money
> getting it to the point that you can drive it enough to figure out what
> else it needs. Last time I did this ('62 Porsche Cabriolet, not shown)
> here's what I did:
>
> a. drained the fuel tank, pulled it, had it cleaned at a radiator shop,
> discovered leaks, had them fixed
>
> b. replaced all the rubber fuel hose and fuel filter
>
> c. pulled the carbs and mechanical fuel pump, cleaned and rebuilt both
> (technically "all three" since there were two carbs)
>
> d. pulled and tossed the plugs, plug wires, points, condenser, distributor
> cap and coil, replacing them with new
>
> e. made sure the brakes weren't stuck in the "on" position or rusted to
> the drums (very common)
>
> f. pulled the wheel cylinders, rubber brake hoses, and master cylinder and
> rebuilt or replaced as was necessary, then reinstalled and bled the brakes
>
> g. replaced the dry-rotted tires and valve stems
>
> h. figured out if the car had been converted from 6V to 12V (it hadn't),
> got a 6V battery, hooked it up and started chasing electrical shorts
>
> i. drained what was left of the oil, cleaned the strainer, suctioned out
> the oil filter can (hard body, with replaceable paper cartridge filter),
> filled with 30w high-detergent oil, and cranked it for a while (5-10 min),
> checking oil pressure with mechanical gauge as I did so. Drained oil,
> replaced oil and filter.
>
> j. connected the ignition electricals at the engine
>
> k. primed the carbs, shot some starting fluid down the barrels, and fired
> it up.
>
> It still spat nasty black smoke, part of a mouse nest (maybe some mouse
> parts too) and was generally unhappy for a while. I stopped it, facepalmed
> for having forgotten to adjust the valves, waited until it was dead cold,
> did that, and re-started.
>
> After that, it was fine.
>
> Well.
>
> At least, until I decided to restore it
>
> And that's pretty much how you need to approach your "old car, hasn't run
> in a long time" car. Doing otherwise will eventually put you back on
> exactly this path, perhaps with an intervening engine rebuild or hospital
> visit.
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9c7152ea7ece4efc9446e8183c51c3b9%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
>

Re: [mk2-16v] vin report request

2016-04-18 Thread Holland Phillips

You could use CarFax, or one of the other services that provide car history
based on VINs. Just a suggestion...

~Holland
On Apr 18, 2016 07:15, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> My dad is asking if I can provide a vin report on this car.  I know it has
> a rebuilt title and it was in an accident.  Anyone out there have access to
> run these reports?
>
> ford fiesta st vin
> 3fadp4gx6fm149578
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC9rD%2B32sVqYm22MiWt5W_LH%3Dqd-rTaGUdmFAg3TCnZQoQ%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkJ0JWP4pCKnHCan0Vxc06vWnt9vH9dsd8H6zMHVHBUtQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-04-08 Thread Holland Phillips

It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2
knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors.
The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just
find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really
don't have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother
idle is probably due to the stock cams.

~Holland
On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004"  wrote:

> anybody know how long it should take to throw a code?  i just warmed the
> car up one cycle on the driveway and it didn't throw any codes after, i'm
> guessing i have to go take it on a nasty drive?
>
> i am close to taking it in for smog.  i had to go back and trace wires,
> etc. and fix previous owner crap.  i was worried about the moving timing
> light so i got another distributor, cap, rotor and wires with the #4 sensor
> that i didn't have, and the car still wanders with the light making it hard
> for me to get exact :(  i tried to leave it in a happy spot based on sound.
>
> it turns out i have 2 knock sensors attached to the block.  #1 inbetween 1
> and 2 cylinders.  then #2 between 2 and 3!!!  i'm guessing this is
> incorrect no matter the engine and either it gets one over on the left
> side, or a second one to the right of the breather?  this is probably going
> to confused the car if i leave it as is?
>
> they had #2 sensor hooked up correctly to the harness.  but they hooked #1
> up to the ignition reference sensor from #4 spark plug, and they cut the
> harness side of #1 knock sensor.  that damn car really did run great to me,
> it was faster then than it is now, just a bit more lumpy at idle.  so that
> is with the screwed up sensors and no 02 sensor hooked up.  it wasn't
> getting good mileage and stunk though.  i can't imagine that car being some
> kind of "limp mode"  if thats supposed to effect performance.
>
> if the car is basically working ok i shouldn't worry about leaving the
> knock sensor #2 hooked up right?  its just tricking it into thinking its
> coming from inbetween 3 and 4?  would hate to ruin something, i was
> planning on pounding on the car tomorrow and hopefully take into smog on
> monday.
>
> thanks!
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/bf619b1d-e178-44ff-980b-9b358cf533fb%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3D86e8LRc2xKeDy_045sNX1O-s_ZBBR0_bxD_2C2WZreQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] OT: Teen Driving Courses

2016-04-05 Thread Holland Phillips

I don't have any kids, but kudos to you Larry for wanting to do the right
thing. I'm a firm believer in requiring comprehensive driver training for
teens. Do they even have driver training courses in public high schools
anymore?

~Holland

My daughter is 14 and will soon start driving (way too early here in FL in
my opinion).

Has anyone had experience with teen driving schools? Skip Barber does one
in Atlanta, but I also found a much lower priced one locally in Tampa.

Anyone have any positive or negative experiences with teen driving schools
like these?

http://gcsdrivingacademy.com/teen

-Larry

91 GTI 16V

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/53277b36b583428eb71ea7120f163e95%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET

.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBk2gN2332y9eCt%3DOR9A-BP38RBgNxyJBBK93RNpR7KRwA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Stainless Clamps

2016-04-04 Thread Holland Phillips

That's for sure! I sorely miss my late 2012 model top of the line Mac Mini.
With a 2.68GHz i7 processor, SSD, 16Gb of memory, yadda yadda yadda. I had
to leave it in Mexico when I was forced to return to the states. Sniff...

~Holland
On Apr 4, 2016 10:55, "Jack Simon" <crabs...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I guess my iMac is smarter than your Smart Phone!!! 8>{o)
>
> On 4 Apr 2016, at 13:53, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> Thanks Jack. I can get to the main page of the website, but can go no
> further, since the site is totally not mobile friendly.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/882CFC6F-DDC4-424A-B77B-990EF328EA7A%40gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/882CFC6F-DDC4-424A-B77B-990EF328EA7A%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBn2EpPe21uThUs%2Bn37v%2B7f0Xo7KBC934ZqpxZFvA1iXcQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: Fwd: [mk2-16v] Stainless Clamps

2016-04-04 Thread Holland Phillips

Thanks Jack. I can get to the main page of the website, but can go no
further, since the site is totally not mobile friendly.

~Holland
On Apr 4, 2016 10:45, "Jack Simon"  wrote:

> http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=11u60t3
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/DC665BF0-AD9A-421C-8DF2-62D7E6F762A6%40gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dc7iXW_O0Tg79L%3DRGJ4JjC%2BzYQLCrbWZVk3tdHxitCtA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

2016-04-03 Thread Holland Phillips

As long as you use high quality fuel hose, like Gates, you should be fine.
The only possible issue could be that the factory hose is metric in terms
of ID.
You used to be able to buy factory spec hose by the foot from the
dealership parts department, but that was years ago, before cars became so
modular in their design. I would use a micrometer to measure the OD of the
nipple that the hose connects to, and convert the measurement to
fractional, and pick the closest available hose from the local auto parts
place.

~Holland
On Apr 3, 2016 14:15, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> I am almost done with the restoration of my main fuel pump.
>
> Can I replace this small hose with standard fuel line?
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Larry Velez
> Date:03/04/2016 6:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal?
> (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>
> Went to Fastenal this morning (7:30am open time works well for me)
>
> Picked up 4 of the 9 metal pieces on this thing.  All in stainless.
>
> Now just missing the banjo bolts, metal sleeves and a flange nut I am
> surprised they didn't have.   True Value is my next stop and maybe
> McMaster.  Might as well put all new hardware on this thing at this point.
>
> I'll summarize what size it all is so someone in the future can order all
> this stuff more easily.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Larry Velez
> Date:02/29/2016 12:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal?
> (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>
> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket
> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum
> Hammered.
>
> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection. These
> guys also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:
> https://www.fastenal.com/
>
> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to
> paint the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Larry
>
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jack Simon
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal?
> (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>
> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit
> although I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and
> actually lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting
> electrical connections.
>
> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially
> since you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old
> British product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC
> regulations got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams
> stores now carry it.
>
> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts,
> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that
> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.
> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get
> them loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest
> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10
> years working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest
> Fasteners and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts"
> area consisted of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything
> imaginable.
>
> Good luck...Jack
>
> On 29 Feb 2016, at 11:25, Larry Velez wrote:
>
>
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more
> permanent before it all goes back under the car.
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com>.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/F3B91F00-9091-4BCA-BB05-C7FF9B283C9D%40gmail.com
> <
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/F3B91F00-9091-4BCA-BB05-C7FF9B283C9D%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer
> >.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-31 Thread Holland Phillips

Uh, that was EGR valve, not EYE. Damn auto correct...

~Holland
On Mar 31, 2016 19:56, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them.
> In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a
> Euro intake on my car, and the port for the EYE valve wasn't machined, so I
> just bolted the valve on and ran the wire back into the harness without
> connecting it, and they never caught it. Those cut wires may be for the
> reference sensor, and if the smog Nazis see them, they may fail you on that
> alone. Plus, without a functioning reference sensor, I doubt the car will
> run correctly, and that may be the reason your timing is jumping around.
> Like I said before, at this point, I would find a smog station that offers
> free retests and go for it. They will tell you what is not correct if it
> fails.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 31, 2016 19:27, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> holy cow i hope to have a success story soon but i am not quite there yet
>> for smog.  i went ahead and checked the codes and found i got an egr
>> error, igntion reference sender and knock sensor #1 bad wiring or sender.
>>
>> somebody told me i don't have a california ecu, does anybody know if all
>> ecu's would throw that egr even if on a non california car?  i don't think
>> i have to worry about it, just wondering.
>>
>> on the knock sensor both of mine are chipped up where the sensor bolts
>> in, one of them has no covering on the whole run of wire, just metal
>> strands.  just got a couple bosch new ones for cheap on ebay so will
>> install those.
>>
>> the last one for the igntion reference sender brings up an issue i didn't
>> know i had.  my car has no sensor on #4 wire and i found no connector in my
>> harness but there is a run of 3 wires that was cut off.  does anybody know
>> if this will effect how the computer runs things?  i have read it both ways
>> searching.  i never noticed a problem with the car before i touched it
>> except it was stinky and didn't get good mileage.  i don't even care about
>> this as long as i pass smog.
>>
>> if i read right i also believe a car can have a 2 degree deviation from
>> the stock timing specs so i think i might just take a chance with this car
>> and set it as best as i can, even though the timing light jumps around.  i
>> have talked with numerous people on each side of this issue as well.  some
>> said their marks wandered, some said they don't.  hate to throw money at
>> this car if i don't have to, but would enjoy making it right for the next
>> guy when i get rid of it :)
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
>>> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected
>>> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I
>>> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the
>>> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady
>>> when viewed with the timing light.
>>> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is
>>> why initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
>>> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
>>> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
>>> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
>>> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin
>>> 7 i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
>>> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
>>> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
>>> they don't seem special looking to me.
>>>
>>> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they
>>> are on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they
>>> each attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.
>>>  so if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i
>>> couldn't fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil
>>> pump it had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i
>>> hav

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-31 Thread Holland Phillips

light on?  it
>> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
>> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
>> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
>> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
>> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
>> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
>> spade connector.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
>> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
>> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
>> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
>> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the
>> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all
>> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't
>> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there
>> somewhere.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02
>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground
>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire
>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am
>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>>
>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert
>> from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an
>> obd reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going,
>> had to rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces
>> just from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is
>> the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I
>> think that you're good to go.
>> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought
>> it'd make things more confusing.
>>
>> Fire it up.
>>
>> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not
>> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all.
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked
>> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is
>> it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside
>> the ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was
>> expecting a special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
>>
>>
>> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire
>> i see connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it
>> doesn't show a straight run to the control unit but it has a solid line
>> crossing into the shielded wire icon on the 02 sensor connected leg.  i
>> just assumed they were connected or else the ground wire from firewall side
>> would go nowhere?
>>
>>
>> is this a pretty common harness on other gas vw's of the same era?  i
>> wish i could see somebodies stock harness with pictures, maybe i can find
>> one at picknpull.
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oSf6Tvpz5Xg/VvN7QYR455I/AOU/FVftHFgDN0AaCg98N1jFVFSj67xKPaOjw/s1600/IMG_0575.JPG>
>>
>>
>

Re: [mk2-16v] Cis-e: possible stuck plunger? Waaaay too much fuel

2016-03-26 Thread Holland Phillips

Something else just occurred to me. Does CIS-E have a cold start valve that
mounts into the intake plenum, like the Motronic system? If so, and it's
stuck open, that could flood all the cylinders.
Just a thought.

~Holland
On Mar 26, 2016 13:53, "Denis Goldman"  wrote:

> Still trying to get my 16v running.  (Thanks Larry for the transfer pump
> gasket part number!).
>
> Today I realized that I have a fuel problem, as in too much fuel.  After
> cranking for a bit and smelling fuel, I pulled the plugs to find them
> dripping wet.  Literal puddles of gas in the combustion chambers when seen
> with a flashlight through the spark plug hole.  The oil has fuel in it as
> well from all of the cranking and compression.  And the exhaust seams
> around the cat and down pipe even have a bit of fuel coming out.   Not good!
>
> Hoping that I didn't hydro lock the engine (I don't think I did, but I
> guess I'll find out soon enough).
>
> What are the chances the plunger in the fuel distributor is stuck wide
> open?  Car ran last fall finebut the ethanol gas can't be good for the
> fuel components.
>
> Any tricks to unstick a stuck plunger?  Just take it apart and hope it all
> goes back together?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABdgnr4r50xf9E74n3%3DB-t130VtkQN2tFQbMq3d_hjTT0z1Uqg%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBka6RSwNci2rJEXbcRy0JBtRUz3UJ8qPpTJmmsZJ36bag%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Cis-e: possible stuck plunger? Waaaay too much fuel

2016-03-26 Thread Holland Phillips

Since you've already established that there's fuel in all the cylinders,
that pretty much rules out a stuck injector. I'm more familiar with
Motronic injection, so I can't be very specific on where the problem lies.
Somewhere in the fuel system there must be a pressure regulator. Maybe
check the Bentley and see where it is. If it failed, and the fuel pressure
coming into the distributor is way high, it's possible that fuel is just
blowing right through the distributor straight to the injectors. One thing
you could try is pulling all the injectors at once, turn the ignition on,
and see if fuel squirts out of all the injectors simultaneously. That might
at least give you a better idea of what's going on. I was lucky and never
had problems with the fuel distributor, so I don't have much of an idea of
exactly how it works internally.
Just a couple of ideas.

~Holland
On Mar 26, 2016 13:53, "Denis Goldman"  wrote:

> Still trying to get my 16v running.  (Thanks Larry for the transfer pump
> gasket part number!).
>
> Today I realized that I have a fuel problem, as in too much fuel.  After
> cranking for a bit and smelling fuel, I pulled the plugs to find them
> dripping wet.  Literal puddles of gas in the combustion chambers when seen
> with a flashlight through the spark plug hole.  The oil has fuel in it as
> well from all of the cranking and compression.  And the exhaust seams
> around the cat and down pipe even have a bit of fuel coming out.   Not good!
>
> Hoping that I didn't hydro lock the engine (I don't think I did, but I
> guess I'll find out soon enough).
>
> What are the chances the plunger in the fuel distributor is stuck wide
> open?  Car ran last fall finebut the ethanol gas can't be good for the
> fuel components.
>
> Any tricks to unstick a stuck plunger?  Just take it apart and hope it all
> goes back together?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABdgnr4r50xf9E74n3%3DB-t130VtkQN2tFQbMq3d_hjTT0z1Uqg%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnYr-RtTxX201a8Octz4d40SdYOb5Xwbs1%3DqkGzeUxMFA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-25 Thread Holland Phillips

I know that my '92 GTI 16V had a lot of emissions hardware that was
specific to California models. I remember when I would have the car
smogged, they would poke around the engine compartment for 15 or 20 minutes
just checking that all the hardware was there. I've never understood why
California in particular is so concerned about hardware inspection, when
emissions is all about what comes out the tail pipe.

~Holland
On Mar 25, 2016 06:55, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was wondering if it was exclusively a california thing. My 90 Corrado
> had the connector underneath the shifter boot but I never really used it.
> On the other hand, I discovered in the Bentley, My 95 Jetta with the 2.0l
> motor had a small key underneath the rear seat. The key was inserted into
> the port in the console and with the ignition on, would provide me blink
> codes on the dashboard.
>
> Both were California cars when originally sold.
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:37 PM, Holland Phillips <
> hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've
>> been referring to as a check engine light.
>> My car was a California car from new.
>> The best ground on any car is the negative battery post.
>> The smell is very possibly the new cat, and the droning noise may be
>> having to do with the cat as well. You may want to check and see if the cat
>> is touching the heat shield that normally is between the cat and the floor
>> of the car.
>> Until you get the basic timing sorted out, I wouldn't worry about the
>> cold start issue. There is a cold start valve which is mounted to the
>> intake manifold, on the tranny end of the manifold. But if the car only
>> takes a couple of tries to fire when fully cold, the valve is probably
>> working.
>> Sounds like you're on the home stretch, just double check the Bentley for
>> the exact basic timing procedure.
>> You could try and get the car smogged, just find a place that promises
>> free retests if you fail. Most smog stations in California do.
>> Hang in there, you've come a long way since your original post.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 21:32, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch
>>> in the dash.  i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and
>>> led with harness under shift boot.  i will check my car tomorrow for that
>>> and see what happens.
>>>
>>> i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing light still jumps
>>> around.  i tried various spots on the spark plug wire no change.  i tried
>>> hooking up the timing light to the - post on coil to start like the bently
>>> talks about, this would illimunate light on my gun but it wouldn't flash,
>>> so i used the instructions for my gun and put it on the negative battery
>>> post?
>>>
>>> i'm not sure what to do here.  i hate to spend all that $$$ on a new one
>>> for no reason.
>>>
>>> i got antsy and took the car out for a hard drive and it was definately
>>> a different experience than before.  not sure if im crazy or if the cams,
>>> chip and intake could have made such a difference?
>>>
>>> now i have a cat on it and the car is much quiter walking around it at
>>> idle.  the engine bay specifically, and so much so when driving i thought
>>> the car died multiple times when coming to a stop.  to my ear i feel there
>>> is less crackling out the exhaust pipe, but it seems to me i hear and feel
>>> a new drone right under me when just coming off idle.  i would have called
>>> it a hesitation and gurgle but i noticed it isn't directly related to the
>>> throttle when pusing it to go.  on that front the car seems to react as
>>> good as ever without stumbling on the gas.  that drone seems to go away
>>> when revving it out, and will come back at times when letting off the
>>> throttle.  the car was always too loud for my liking when driving it but i
>>> don't really care at this point, i will get rid of it later anyway.
>>>
>>> i only drove for like 20 minutes and when i came back the car stunk.
>>>  not like raw gas smell, i wonder if its the cat breaking in?  of course
>>> they mention nothing about it.
>>>
>>> i am hoping i am on the home stretch here.  i am tempted to just take it
>>> into smog but i have to assume my timing isn't perfect and am afraid of
>>> failing and having to go back :(
>>&g

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

n the block that mates with the oil pump so i still
>> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care
>> :)
>>
>> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it
>> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some
>> others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.
>>
>> bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing
>> wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and
>> tighten them and see.
>>
>> i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went
>> to was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be
>> going back to that guy.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
>> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected
>> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I
>> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the
>> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady
>> when viewed with the timing light.
>> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is
>> why initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
>> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
>> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
>> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
>> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin
>> 7 i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
>> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
>> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
>> they don't seem special looking to me.
>>
>> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
>> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
>> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
>> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
>> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
>> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
>> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>>
>> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
>> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
>> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
>> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
>> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
>> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
>> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
>> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
>> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
>> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
>> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
>> spade connector.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
>> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
>> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
>> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

Maybe it was a California only thing. But I am positive that there was some
sort of indicator on the dash that would illuminate when you turned on the
ignition, and go out once the engine started. And, at least on my car, it
would light up if the ECU detected a fault. Many times I remember reading
the codes, and fixing the problem, and then clearing the code, causing the
light to go out.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 7:08 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

> You sure?  My friends '92 corrado didn't have one.  I've never seen one in
> a 16v GTi/GLi.
>
> I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips <fasterthan...@pacbell.net>
> wrote:
>
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used
> to check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it
> was there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has
> happened since the last time I worked on my car.
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
> wrote:
>
> Holland,
>
> There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado
> slc had one...
>
> Josh
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004 <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7
> i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
> they don't seem special looking to me.
>
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
> spade connector.
>
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the
> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all
> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't
> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there
> somewhere.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground
> wire attached to t

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is
definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting base
timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably a lot
of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect in, I
think, '96, most new vehicles sold in the U.S. came in what was termed "49
state"  versions, and California versions. Thanks CARB & EPA. Now almost
all vehicles are "world spec", since the EU has become as emissions aware
as the U.S. has been for decades. They've even gone further with the
introduction of pedestrian accident requirements for front bumbers, which I
think the U.S. has or will be adopting.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 18:53, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit
> in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still
> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care
> :)
>
> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it
> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some
> others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.
>
> bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing
> wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and
> tighten them and see.
>
> i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went to
> was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be
> going back to that guy.
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
>> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected
>> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I
>> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the
>> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady
>> when viewed with the timing light.
>> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is
>> why initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
>> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
>> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
>> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
>> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin
>> 7 i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
>> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
>> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
>> they don't seem special looking to me.
>>
>> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
>> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
>> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
>> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
>> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
>> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
>> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>>
>> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
>> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
>> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
>> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
>> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
>> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
>> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
>> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
>> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
>> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
>> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 a

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened since the last time I worked on my car.
On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> wrote:Holland,There is no check engine light. VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc had one...JoshSent from my iPhoneOn Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004 <damac2004@sbcglobal.net> wrote:ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7 i believe on the ecu connector, so i guess i am good. i kept getting confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty cable like for tv. when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem special looking to me.also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors. they are on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1. they each attach to a harness connector that goes into the loom and to the ecu. so if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2? yet i couldn't fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the smaller block off plate hole? so still not sure what i have. in included a picture down below. hopefully i won't need to care.here is a link to video of my first cold startup. for some reason it took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise. then it started right up. can anybody tell if it sounds ok? i am now having an issue with timing the car. i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on? it kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the other. if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more. i tried connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head. it seems to like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is. im wondering what impact this could have on smog if im a little off. also not sure if this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have. Maybe check to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade connector. On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. ~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:sorry just to make sure we are on the same page. you are saying the 02 sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu. and the ground wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire along the same path? i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am tempted to cut further upstream to see.i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd reader? i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to rewire the main power and grounds. many wires have fallen to pieces just from touching them. scary stuff now that i look closer.On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think that you're good to go. I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd make things more confusing. Fire it up. One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:i forgot to add this picture. maybe i need to look closer but it looked like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg. is it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the ground run? i can try and cut some back and look at it.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected prior
to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I think
it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the Bentley.
Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady when viewed
with the timing light.
The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why
initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
actually fail you if it's out of spec.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7
> i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
> they don't seem special looking to me.
>
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
>> spade connector.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
>> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
>> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
>> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
>> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the
>> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all
>> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't
>> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there
>> somewhere.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02
>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground
>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire
>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am
>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>>
>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert
>> from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an
>> obd reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going,
>> had to rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pi

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread Holland Phillips

gt;> 91 chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on
>> firewall rather than the engine block.
>>
>> i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and
>> their colored wires into the ecu harness.
>>
>> bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black
>> wire making a left turn into that black ground wire.
>>
>> so it seems it is wired correctly?
>>
>> i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire
>> is a ground wire on all car applications.
>>
>> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks
>> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
>> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
>> I’m a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
>> the electrical tape go to the sensor.
>> I think.
>>
>> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0
>> has 2. If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say
>> that the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had
>> the exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I
>> found out when I discovered the second KS.
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
>> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
>> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i
>> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black
>> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess
>> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02
>> sensor signal wire?
>>
>> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall
>> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the
>> wire from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH
>> the 02 sensor signal wire???
>>
>> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for
>> 02 sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
>>
>> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be
>> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached
>> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have
>> to cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further
>> down the line.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dxq5cmIRnac/Vu2jZVj8m9I/AN0/6KQ2liGE3owz3akNdZZU2l2Z-LO6_usig/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an
>> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a
>> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue
>> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock
>> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other
>> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v <
>> mk2...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and
>> Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the
>> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT.
>>
>> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because
>> VW had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The
>> moral is to never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious
>> isn't always obvious 
>>
>> - Matthew -
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but
>> yes, one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once
>> you set the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2
>> sensor hooked up correctly, it is

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread Holland Phillips

The wiring diagrams in the Bentley are notoriously difficult to follow.
Until you get used to the way the runs jump around from page to page, it
can be extremely frustrating. I don't have a Bentley anymore, or I would
try and give you some help.

~Holland
On Mar 23, 2016 10:29 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>
> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked
> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is
> it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside
> the ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was
> expecting a special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
>
>
> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire i
> see connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it
> doesn't show a straight run to the control unit but it has a solid line
> crossing into the shielded wire icon on the 02 sensor connected leg.  i
> just assumed they were connected or else the ground wire from firewall side
> would go nowhere?
>
>
> is this a pretty common harness on other gas vw's of the same era?  i wish
> i could see somebodies stock harness with pictures, maybe i can find one at
> picknpull.
>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oSf6Tvpz5Xg/VvN7QYR455I/AOU/FVftHFgDN0AaCg98N1jFVFSj67xKPaOjw/s1600/IMG_0575.JPG>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 5:21:42 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> So you bought a new 3wire O2 sensor? If so, the black is the signal not
>> the ground. (The sensor is grounded through the exhaust?)
>> After the orange connector the signal wire back to the ecu is a little
>> thicker because it's a coaxial cable, it has a braided shield around the
>> signal wire. This shield has a ground and I believe that's the one going to
>> the firewall. That's why they look like 2 wires fused into 1.
>> (I think, my loom is different.) If I'm way off, I hope someone will let
>> him and me know.
>>
>> There should be an extra female connector for the 2nd knock sensor,
>> unless they cut it off.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:30 PM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor
>> and want to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole
>> harness that goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock
>> sensor.  don't see any special shielded wiring.
>>
>> the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to
>> the ecu.  a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal
>> wire connector is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts,
>> looks original to me?
>>
>> i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti
>> 91 chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on
>> firewall rather than the engine block.
>>
>> i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and
>> their colored wires into the ecu harness.
>>
>> bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black
>> wire making a left turn into that black ground wire.
>>
>> so it seems it is wired correctly?
>>
>> i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire
>> is a ground wire on all car applications.
>>
>> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks
>> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
>> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
>> I’m a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
>> the electrical tape go to the sensor.
>> I think.
>>
>> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0
>> has 2. If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say
>> that the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had
>> the exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I
>> found out when I discovered the second KS.
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
>> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
>> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13,

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread Holland Phillips

No worries, that's what this list is for.
At this point, as far as the O2 sensor wiring is concerned, if everything
compares with the Bentley, you're probably okay. What concerns me, is how a
Motronic ECU is going to deal with having only one knock sensor. I guess
your best bet is to hook up what you've got, and see how the car runs. You
may get a check engine light, but you can't do any damage. If it doesn't
run well, I'm not sure how to deal with that. Cross your fingers, and hope
for the best. Maybe someone else on the list has dealt with a similar
situation.
Good luck!

~Holland
On Mar 23, 2016 15:30, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor and
> want to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole
> harness that goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock
> sensor.  don't see any special shielded wiring.
>
> the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to the
> ecu.  a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal wire
> connector is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts, looks
> original to me?
>
> i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti 91
> chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on
> firewall rather than the engine block.
>
> i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and
> their colored wires into the ecu harness.
>
> bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black
> wire making a left turn into that black ground wire.
>
> so it seems it is wired correctly?
>
> i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire
> is a ground wire on all car applications.
>
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks
>> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
>> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
>> I’m a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
>> the electrical tape go to the sensor.
>> I think.
>>
>> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0
>> has 2. If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say
>> that the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had
>> the exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I
>> found out when I discovered the second KS.
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
>> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
>> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i
>> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black
>> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess
>> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02
>> sensor signal wire?
>>
>> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall
>> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the
>> wire from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH
>> the 02 sensor signal wire???
>>
>> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for
>> 02 sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
>>
>> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be
>> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached
>> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have
>> to cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further
>> down the line.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dxq5cmIRnac/Vu2jZVj8m9I/AN0/6KQ2liGE3owz3akNdZZU2l2Z-LO6_usig/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an
>> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a
>> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue
>> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock
>

Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?

2016-03-21 Thread Holland Phillips

That's funny. I was just telling someone the other day that these days,
when you purchase a new just about anything, with a few exceptions
(clothing, etc), the instructions are prefaced by multiple pages of
warnings, disclaimers, et all, before you actually get the actual
information on how to operate, use, whatever, your new product. It's just
another manifestation of the litigous nature of society today. I can't help
but laugh when I see a tv commercial advertising some new miracle drug,
followed by another advertising a legal firm offering to represent you if
you've been prescribed said miracle drug and suffered one of the many side
effects which were actually presented as a possibility in the previous
commercial. Poor Darwin must be exhausted from all the turning over he does
in his grave.

~Holland
On Mar 21, 2016 09:33, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

> Optima's charger reminds me of the Pepsi commercial that translated poorly
> into Chinese.  Instead of "It brings good things to life", it translated as
> "It brings back your dead ancestors"...
>
> As for the new-style battery covers, I've opened them as well but only
> under severe duress because the batteries are now imprinted with all sorts
> of warnings that removing those caps could cause death.  Apparently we are
> a society that is intent on thwarting Darwinism...
>
>
> On Monday, March 21, 2016 12:21 PM, Holland Phillips <
> fasterthan...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>
> That's one of the claims that Optima makes for their charger, that it can
> bring back presumed dead AGM batteries when other chargers can't. If you
> have a local retailer who stocks the Optima charger, you could try bringing
> your dead Red Top in and ask them to try and restore it.
> On Mar 21, 2016 08:45, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> Good point,  I have been testing the batteries without the charger which
> is why I suspect it is not charging (it is also not going to a green light
> like it used to, stays either red or flashing red/green).
>
> I’ll test the voltage with the charger connected and see what it registers
> when I am back from a business trip.
>
> And thanks for the heads up on the Optima charger,  do not have AGM
> batteries right now – except for the dead red-top from the 16V from many
> years ago that I am sure can’t be revived anymore.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Larry
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 11:40 AM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?
>
> You can easily test the charger. Just use a volt meter, and while the
> charger is plugged in, and connected to a battery, you should see at least
> 13.8 volts or so. If you're not reading above 13volts, it's probably not
> working.
> The Optima charger is a nice piece, but only if you're running AGM type
> batteries. It will work on standard lead acid batteries, but you're
> spending a lot of money for the AGM charging ability if you don't need it.
> ~Holland
> On Mar 21, 2016 08:00, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> My battery tender Jr. does not seem to be charging the batteries I am
> trying to use it on anymore.   Do these things die after a while?
>
> I assume there is no hard in having them connected to a battery all the
> time?   I try to swap between the Mk2 and the E30 but now it seems like it
> is not charging either battery.
>
> Might have to step up to a better one.Is this $200 fancy Optima one
> worth the extra money in anyone’s opinion?
> http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Digital-Performance-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B009M3PQFA
>
> Dying batteries is what led to the world of pain I am still in on my 16V.
> The battery would not stay charged and I was forced to park it away from an
> outlet (because NYC!) so it ended up sitting longer than it should have
> which caused the ethanol heavy gas to muck everything up…  now I fear
> uncharged batteries.
>
> Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/753c16362e4149ed9bb1948698cc1818%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/753c16362e4149ed9bb1948698cc1818%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET?utm_medium=email_

RE: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?

2016-03-21 Thread Holland Phillips

That's one of the claims that Optima makes for their charger, that it can bring back presumed dead AGM batteries when other chargers can't. If you have a local retailer who stocks the Optima charger, you could try bringing your dead Red Top in and ask them to try and restore it.
On Mar 21, 2016 08:45, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:







Good point,  I have been testing the batteries without the charger which is why I suspect it is not charging (it is also not going to
 a green light like it used to, stays either red or flashing red/green).
 
I’ll test the voltage with the charger connected and see what it registers when I am back from a business trip.
 
And thanks for the heads up on the Optima charger,  do not have AGM batteries right now – except for the dead red-top from the 16V from many years ago that I
 am sure can’t be revived anymore.
 
Thanks.
 
-Larry
 
From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Holland Phillips
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 11:40 AM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?
 
You can easily test the charger. Just use a volt meter, and while the charger is plugged in, and connected to a battery, you should see at least 13.8 volts or so. If you're not reading above 13volts, it's probably not working.

The Optima charger is a nice piece, but only if you're running AGM type batteries. It will work on standard lead acid batteries, but you're spending a lot of money for the AGM charging ability if you don't need it.

~Holland

On Mar 21, 2016 08:00, "Larry Velez" <larry@sinu.com> wrote:



My battery tender Jr. does not seem to be charging the batteries I am trying to use it on anymore.   Do these things die after a while?
 
I assume there is no hard in having them connected to a battery all the time?   I try to swap between the Mk2 and the E30 but now it seems like it is not charging either battery.
 
Might have to step up to a better one.    Is this $200 fancy Optima one worth the extra money in anyone’s opinion? 

http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Digital-Performance-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B009M3PQFA
 
Dying batteries is what led to the world of pain I am still in on my 16V.  The battery would not stay charged and I was forced to park it away from an outlet (because NYC!) so it
 ended up sitting longer than it should have which caused the ethanol heavy gas to muck everything up…  now I fear uncharged batteries.
 
Larry
91 GTI 16V


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to 
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 
https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/753c16362e4149ed9bb1948698cc1818%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
For more options, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnGeBHfxwb50gDOk_9BWh1gMfTd0xpsNcn0J%3D7tG7y23Q%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.






-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/a816e93527464c23988e5079346c62a3%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9190617-10e4-43ef-b8a0-8c8e3149a441%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?

2016-03-21 Thread Holland Phillips

You can easily test the charger. Just use a volt meter, and while the
charger is plugged in, and connected to a battery, you should see at least
13.8 volts or so. If you're not reading above 13volts, it's probably not
working.
The Optima charger is a nice piece, but only if you're running AGM type
batteries. It will work on standard lead acid batteries, but you're
spending a lot of money for the AGM charging ability if you don't need it.

~Holland
On Mar 21, 2016 08:00, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> My battery tender Jr. does not seem to be charging the batteries I am
> trying to use it on anymore.   Do these things die after a while?
>
>
>
> I assume there is no hard in having them connected to a battery all the
> time?   I try to swap between the Mk2 and the E30 but now it seems like it
> is not charging either battery.
>
>
>
> Might have to step up to a better one.Is this $200 fancy Optima one
> worth the extra money in anyone’s opinion?
> http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Digital-Performance-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B009M3PQFA
>
>
>
> Dying batteries is what led to the world of pain I am still in on my 16V.
> The battery would not stay charged and I was forced to park it away from an
> outlet (because NYC!) so it ended up sitting longer than it should have
> which caused the ethanol heavy gas to muck everything up…  now I fear
> uncharged batteries.
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/753c16362e4149ed9bb1948698cc1818%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnGeBHfxwb50gDOk_9BWh1gMfTd0xpsNcn0J%3D7tG7y23Q%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Finding Engine Letter Codes

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

And just to be clear, the 1.8 code is PL, and the 2.0 is 9A.

~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 13:27, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought
> because I couldn’t find these.
>
> Finding Engine Letter Codes
>
> The code characters which identify an engine can be easily viewed in the
> engine compartment. The code, GX for example, is given at the beginning of
> the engine number which is stamped on a flat area of the top of the engine
> block, just below the lower edge of the cylinder head and located
> approximately between the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. The location of the
> engine number stamp is shown in Fig. 1-4. *Table a* lists engine codes,
> application information, and major specifications.
> *Fig. 1-4.* Location of stamped engine number and identifying code.
>
>
>
> *Table a. GTI, Golf, and Jetta Engines*
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CB69E57F-66AE-410A-8F2D-0D3BBA0FAA3D%40gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkeHaqBC-6DwegDn%3DtGWOWV82-rKTmi%2BmPssXzYg3BYeg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

And just as an FYI, on a 2.0 block, both knock sensors are mounted on the
side of the block which faces the front of the car. And as I recall, the
leads for both sensors come from the firewall in a small vinyl covered
harness that runs by the rear of the head over the top of the bell housing
(more or less).

~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 13:24, "Steven Arguello" <stevenargue...@gmail.com> wrote:

>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks
> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
> I’m a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
> the electrical tape go to the sensor.
> I think.
>
> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has
> 2. If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that
> the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the
> exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found
> out when I discovered the second KS.
>
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i
>> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black
>> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess
>> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02
>> sensor signal wire?
>>
>> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall
>> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the
>> wire from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH
>> the 02 sensor signal wire???
>>
>> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for
>> 02 sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
>>
>> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be
>> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached
>> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have
>> to cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further
>> down the line.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dxq5cmIRnac/Vu2jZVj8m9I/AN0/6KQ2liGE3owz3akNdZZU2l2Z-LO6_usig/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>>
>>> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an
>>> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a
>>> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue
>>> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock
>>> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other
>>> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
>>>
>>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v <
>>> mk2...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW
>>> and Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving
>>> the accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT.
>>>
>>> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because
>>> VW had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The
>>> moral is to never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious
>>> isn't always obvious 
>>>
>>> - Matthew -
>>>
>>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but
>>> yes, one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once
>>> you set the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2
>>> sensor hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least
>>> you've resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> well

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a
coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of
about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.

~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i
> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black
> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess
> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02
> sensor signal wire?
>
> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall
> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the
> wire from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH
> the 02 sensor signal wire???
>
> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02
> sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
>
> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be
> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached
> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have
> to cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further
> down the line.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dxq5cmIRnac/Vu2jZVj8m9I/AN0/6KQ2liGE3owz3akNdZZU2l2Z-LO6_usig/s1600/IMG_0571.JPG>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an
>> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a
>> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue
>> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock
>> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other
>> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v <
>> mk2...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and
>> Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the
>> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT.
>>
>> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because
>> VW had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The
>> moral is to never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious
>> isn't always obvious 
>>
>> - Matthew -
>>
>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips <holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but
>> yes, one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once
>> you set the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2
>> sensor hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least
>> you've resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick
>> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then
>> tried to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than
>> 900 rpm i think.
>>
>> wow do i feel stupid.
>>
>> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next
>> problem is the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and
>> 02 sensor at this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some
>> previous owner electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together
>> into a bundle thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this
>> includes a single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming
>> from the drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw
>> plastic connectors.
>>
>> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the
>> way over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look
>> closer but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02
>> sensor connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2
>> white wires goes into the loom.
>>
>> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need
>> to get that straight before installing new one.
>>
>> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it
>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

has an extremely short shelf life.
>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic
>>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so
>>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing
>>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt
>>>> is tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
>>>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>>>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>>>
>>>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for
>>>> a short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>>>
>>>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing
>>>> they're going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I
>>>> bet.
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video
>>>> from the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>>>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>>>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>>>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>>>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>>>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>>>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>>>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>>>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>>>> broken locating tooth?
>>>

Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?

2016-03-18 Thread Holland Phillips

I would provide the seller with a list of what you need, and make a low
ball offer for the lot. That gives you the best opportunity for
negotiations. If you've ever watched tv shows like American Pickers, that's
the way that seems to work in the favor of the búyer. It's kind of the way
a lot of business works. Car dealerships work the same way but in reverse,
where the sticker price can usually be negotiated down, or they offer to
throw in some extras to sweeten the deal.

~Holland
On Mar 18, 2016 06:39, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Seems like the kids these days use an entrepreneurial technique to raise
> money for their cars which is rather clever.  They will buy cars that are
> in bad shape by bidding quickly on them and taking the risk on their
> quality.  They don’t get attached to them and if they found a diamond in
> the rough they keep it for a while and if it is a basketcase,  they part it
> out.  They don’t seem to sell the whole broken car at a low price but
> instead greatly increase their return on investment by parting the car out
> and putting some sweat equity into it.  They are in some ways disrupting
> the junkyard business using social networks to spread the word super fast.
>
>
>
> I am wondering if any of you are participating in these partouts.   Seems
> like each time I try to participate they never give me a price asking for
> an offer – a clever way to sometimes get offered more money for parts and
> to quickly gauge interest.   The Internet is making a whole generation into
> wanttrepeneurs with some success.
>
>
>
> I just connected with someone who has the exact matching car to my daily
> driver (99.5 Audi ‘B5 A4’) and I need lots of parts from that car.  They
> asked me to make an offer on what I want and I am not sure how to respond.
> Do I just offer a few hundred for permission to take everything I need
> (mostly small stuff) or do I make an inventory and make offers for each
> little part.
>
>
>
> Any advice on how to approach the negotiation?  I hate negotiating and
> prefer transparent pricing on everything but with old cars you pay a
> significant premium for new parts and could save hundreds by getting used
> parts especially things like same color fenders in good condition.
>
>
>
> Thoughts/advice?
>
>
>
> [image: http://cdn.meme.am/instances/62578481.jpg]
>
>
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/7b17939b9de14f86b8d03911ac99667f%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmaK-2ihW%3D0Z1498TtadsQ66kT%2BPtVoUQmwmrXGq%3DzR6w%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] The future of VW

2016-03-15 Thread Holland Phillips

It would seem that the problems VW is currently experiencing is U.S. based.
VWAG is a huge world wide conglomerate consisting of Audi, Lamborghini,
Bugatti, Siat, and a couple of more I can't think of right now. VW sells a
lot of cars under just the VW name in other countries. While I was living
in Mexico, it seemed like half the cars were VW's, although most of them
were models not sold in the U.S.. They may be experiencing problems here in
the U.S., but I'd be willing to bet that they will blow over, and VW will
still be around for the foreseeable future. If I was able to purchase a new
vehicle, I would be seriously considering a Mk7 Golf R.

~Holland
On Mar 15, 2016 07:23, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> Sadly we may be seeing the end of VW play out right now.   They seem to be
> continuing to hurt.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/03/u-s-volkswagen-dealers-are-poised-to-revolt/
>
>
>
> This may have no impact on us Mk2 people since we were abandoned by VW
> long ago,  but where it might impact us is if VW Heritage/Classic Parts is
> shut down in the aftermath of all this.
>
>
>
> Anyone out there not buying new VWs because of all this?
>
>
>
> Just curious,
>
>
>
> Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/05e0f3a385fd46239a44ec0c225bed58%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnfJpjpTNQMWRNOQmXLBw9eJndw%2BresYzQJRgF5au_TXQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

2016-03-04 Thread Holland Phillips

Oh, forgot about that one. But if it was the antenna, the headliner would
be soaked, which would be hard to miss.

~Holland
On Mar 4, 2016 19:40, <jlagn...@massed.net> wrote:

> It could also be the antenna!
>
> *From:* Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 01, 2016 5:19 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to
> fix
>
>
> Water in the spare tire well is likely coming from a leaky hatch seal,
> especially since there's water around the tail lights. Or possibly the tail
> light housing seals themselves. Once you get everything dried out, I would
> attack the suspect areas of leaks with a garden hose. Start with the tail
> lights and move up to the hatch, then the sunroof.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 13:11, "Steven Arguello" <stevenargue...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have 3 different fuel distributor/pressure regulator/dpr sets. They
>> were all at least partially messed up with that white flakey oxidation
>> crap. I wasn’t able to get any of the messed up ones to work, but I finally
>> found a combination of the 3 that worked. I also cleaned the injectors with
>> my Dad’s old drafting pen ultrasonic cleaner. (not sure if that did
>> anything). Car runs great. I now run the car at least every other day. Now
>> I can move onto other issues.
>>
>> The most urgent one is the 1/2” of water and ice in the spare tire well.
>> I can tell by the high water line there was up to 3” in there. It seems
>> wetter around the taillights. The sunroof seal is shot, is that the most
>> likely place that water’s getting in? How big of a deal are they to replace?
>>
>> Water’s also getting in through the doors, with the door panels off water
>> drips out of the door onto the rocker. I’ve been replacing the plastic
>> sheet just the way I found it, but I’m not sure that it’s the right way.
>> Any tips on how to do it right?
>>
>> Water might also be getting in around the windshield.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mailto:mk2-16v%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com
>> <mk2-16v%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com>.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B19230BB-233C-4A9C-8A44-2D1601D38362%40gmail.com
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnuJh3k7ZrzBKU7cyNcc9D9MRbLqWrjXZ3wh1_AJi0rDg%40mail.gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnuJh3k7ZrzBKU7cyNcc9D9MRbLqWrjXZ3wh1_AJi0rDg%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/74873F9EF9534EA7B348E2D1FD1BAF12%40JohnPC
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/74873F9EF9534EA7B348E2D1FD1BAF12%40JohnPC?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmBsif8H%2B1PXaZF%2BS_4_uCipq-N-MK01sn%2BA4F-THpYYQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

2016-03-04 Thread Holland Phillips

Correct. The one that attaches the output line of the main pump which goes
to the fuel distributor. It's purpose is to maintain fuel pressure when the
car isn't running so the engine starts quickly. I would just clean up the
banjo bolts you have, and get new copper crush washers, which should be
replaced any time the banjo bolts are removed for any reason. There are
always two washers per bolt, one on each side of the fitting, as in one
between the head of the bolt and the fitting, and the other between the
fitting and the pump. Also, sometimes the copper washers have different
ID's. The washer that goes under the head of the bolt may have a slightly
larger ID than the one that goes on the threaded side. I can't recall if
that's the case with the fuel pump banjos, but I definitely remember it
being the case somewhere on my 16V. Could have been at the brake calipers,
but not sure anymore.

~Holland
On Mar 4, 2016 16:37, "Steven Arguello" <stevenargue...@gmail.com> wrote:

> One of those banjo bolts is a check valve.
>
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be
> dealer only. McMaster does carry banjo bolts, but only in sae. I'm sure the
> sleeve will also be dealer only, unless you want to buy the proper size
> metric steel tubing and cut to fit. McMaster will have metric tubing.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 4, 2016 15:16, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
>> Went to Fastenal this morning (7:30am open time works well for me)
>>
>> Picked up 4 of the 9 metal pieces on this thing.  All in stainless.
>>
>> Now just missing the banjo bolts, metal sleeves and a flange nut I am
>> surprised they didn't have.   True Value is my next stop and maybe
>> McMaster.  Might as well put all new hardware on this thing at this point.
>>
>> I'll summarize what size it all is so someone in the future can order all
>> this stuff more easily.
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Larry Velez
>> Date:02/29/2016 12:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal?
>> (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>>
>> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket
>> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum
>> Hammered.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection. These
>> guys also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:
>> https://www.fastenal.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to
>> paint the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Jack Simon
>> *Sent:* Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and
>> Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>>
>>
>>
>> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit
>> although I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and
>> actually lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting
>> electrical connections.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially
>> since you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old
>> British product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC
>> regulations got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams
>> stores now carry it.
>>
>>
>>
>> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts,
>> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that
>> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.
>> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get
>> them loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest
>> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10
>> years working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest
>> Fasteners and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts"
>> area consisted of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything
>> imaginable.
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck...Jack
>>
>>
>>
>> On 29 F

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

And don't EVER listen to the people who actually know something...

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 4:12 PM, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Sounds like most people in the tuner business - they're the BEST and don't
> you dare question them.
>
> - Matthew -
>
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 18:33, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
> highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
> attitude.
> The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND
> and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I
> know, he's still in business.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I
>> remember when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then
>> he sold it and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>>
>> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
>> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>>
>> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
>> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
>>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
>>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
>>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
>>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good to know.
>>>>
>>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car
>>>> shows. I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of
>>>>> fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge
>>>>> was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, 
>>>>> and
>>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>>>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>>>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>>>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>>>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>>>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>>>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>>>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>>>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>>>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would 
>>>>>> imagine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
attitude.
The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND
and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I
know, he's still in business.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I
> remember when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then
> he sold it and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>
> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>
> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know.
>>>
>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car
>>> shows. I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of
>>>> fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge
>>>> was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>>> is
>>>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>>>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
>>>>> at
>>>>> around 50psi, give or ta

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
successful sales person while there. Still good memories...

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good to know.
>
> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows.
> I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
>> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
>> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>>
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motro

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

Water in the spare tire well is likely coming from a leaky hatch seal,
especially since there's water around the tail lights. Or possibly the tail
light housing seals themselves. Once you get everything dried out, I would
attack the suspect areas of leaks with a garden hose. Start with the tail
lights and move up to the hatch, then the sunroof.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 13:11, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> I have 3 different fuel distributor/pressure regulator/dpr sets. They were
> all at least partially messed up with that white flakey oxidation crap. I
> wasn’t able to get any of the messed up ones to work, but I finally found a
> combination of the 3 that worked. I also cleaned the injectors with my
> Dad’s old drafting pen ultrasonic cleaner. (not sure if that did anything).
> Car runs great. I now run the car at least every other day. Now I can move
> onto other issues.
>
> The most urgent one is the 1/2” of water and ice in the spare tire well. I
> can tell by the high water line there was up to 3” in there. It seems
> wetter around the taillights. The sunroof seal is shot, is that the most
> likely place that water’s getting in? How big of a deal are they to replace?
>
> Water’s also getting in through the doors, with the door panels off water
> drips out of the door onto the rocker. I’ve been replacing the plastic
> sheet just the way I found it, but I’m not sure that it’s the right way.
> Any tips on how to do it right?
>
> Water might also be getting in around the windshield.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B19230BB-233C-4A9C-8A44-2D1601D38362%40gmail.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnuJh3k7ZrzBKU7cyNcc9D9MRbLqWrjXZ3wh1_AJi0rDg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn'

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
around 50psi, give or take.
We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
> locating tooth?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
>
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Holland Phillips

I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
>> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>
>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>
>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>
>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>
>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>>> broken locating tooth?
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:
>>>
 Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to
 verify the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is
 running?
 On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body
> back in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds
> and ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and 
> worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>
> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
> cross my fingers.
>
> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
> wrote:
>>
>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor
>> which was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even
>> existed or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2
>> sensor has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe
>> mode", which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled
>> that the O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means
>> it has a heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to
>> reduce emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V 
>> trivia
>> I acquired over the years. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it
>>> all apart, after this incident.
>>>
>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this
>>> whole time :).
>>>
>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was

RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

2016-02-29 Thread Holland Phillips

For a HUGE selection of fasteners, as well as just about anything else you
can think of, try McMaster-Carr
www.mcmaster.com
Those guys have more stuff than you can believe. Back in the day of paper
catalogs, theirs was larger than a NYC phone directory, or three. I used to
spend hours just browsing their website.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 09:45, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket
> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum
> Hammered.
>
>
>
> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection. These
> guys also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:
> https://www.fastenal.com/
>
>
>
> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to
> paint the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Jack Simon
> *Sent:* Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal?
> (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)
>
>
>
> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit
> although I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and
> actually lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting
> electrical connections.
>
>
>
> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially
> since you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old
> British product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC
> regulations got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams
> stores now carry it.
>
>
>
> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts,
> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that
> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.
> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get
> them loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest
> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10
> years working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest
> Fasteners and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts"
> area consisted of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything
> imaginable.
>
>
>
> Good luck...Jack
>
>
>
> On 29 Feb 2016, at 11:25, Larry Velez wrote:
>
>
>
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more
> permanent before it all goes back under the car.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/F3B91F00-9091-4BCA-BB05-C7FF9B283C9D%40gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/f0226263fba4405495286268de8e974d%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBniHXJxzNc4X9CkfZpCyu8yT6Ft3h4U7fseKNd%3DjM2djA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

2016-02-29 Thread Holland Phillips

Move to California?
No, seriously, I use anti seize on the threaded portion of fasteners that I
don't want to rust, especially if they are likely to need to be removed for
future service reasons. If you're concerned about the heads of the
fasteners rusting, before installation, punch holes in a piece of
cardboard, insert fasteners, and shoot a few coats of a quality epoxy
paint. To improve adhesion, preheat your oven to about 200deg, and bake for
about an hour.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 08:25, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> So I have been very slowly working on cleaning up a replacement main fuel
> pump that I got from our fellow lister, Chad.  I was able to strip the
> bracket down to pretty much bare metal using many days of apple cider
> vinegar and various wire brushes on my dremel and a new bench polisher I
> purchased.
>
>
>
> Now that I have the fasteners and metal sleeves for the rubber vibration
> dampers pretty much rust free,  any suggestions on how to keep them rust
> free after they are back under the car?   I called a local place about zink
> plating and they said that a small batch like this would be ‘uncomfortably
> expensive’.   They suggested to replace all the fasteners with new.  I
> can’t get any of this stuff new from anyone so I would have to research the
> sizes/thread/etc to try to match them with new replacements.  I am thinking
> is probably easiest to reuse most of this and just replace all the gaskets
> and washers.
>
>
>
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more
> permanent before it all goes back under the car.
>
>
>
> (Let’s see if all the pictures come through,  I crunched them down to a
> small size)
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/5b398661cb7b4ad8ab20315092dbab69%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3D8nXKo-T0-9%3D2paV%2BCFB%3DE%2Br7ik3aJcRWYYDprnkU8%3Dg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the O2 sensor
on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a heater, so
its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce emissions. All
this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I acquired over the
years. 

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
> apart, after this incident.
>
> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
> time :).
>
> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBn2gaFsALPn2Df5EV27d%2BzM4%2BU-rYv-Ysw%3Dop0D94fJpg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
experienced problems that were caused by bad O2 sensors, either because of
no output, or dead shorts. The early Bosch sensors had pretty short
lifespans, and could fail either way. The latest versions are much more
reliable, and much less expensive. Just be sure to only use the genuine
Bosch units.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 18:39, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.
>
> car was running fine to me.  last drive i came off freeway to oil light
> and i ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road.
> turned out im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some
> of im shaft gear which was in pan.  i always had to get car smogged but i
> had to get a cat fitted because it didnt have one.
>
> i didnt check compression i guess taking effort to turn over by hand with
> ratchet isnt enough?  car did run fine again after i fixed im shaft and
> before i yanked cams.
>
> i did not try the aftermarket chip i figured it would run like crap, guess
> its worth a try?
>
> is it possible somebody did work inside head for aftermarket cams to cause
> me problems?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/b99400ec-e5eb-41a6-b6bb-190010f82dda%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DyNn38TV%3D%2BP6cU0g2H_vXpCWaDYkpxo2NVk97ark04%2BA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the stock chip is bad, or
you did some ESD damage to the ECU or chip when handling them, then there
is nothing adjustable or upgradeable in the Motronic ECU. Have you tried
swapping the aftermarket chip back in?  I assume you have at this point.
The fuel distributor is also non adjustable. If it worked before, then
short of dropping it on the garage floor, it should still work as before.
Please refresh my memory. The car ran ok, and you just had some emissions
test concerns? I recall you discovering some issues with the intermediate
shaft, which is what opened this whole can of worms. One other question -
have you performed a compression test? It doesn't sound like that's part of
the problem, but you have now piqued my curiosity, and would like to help
solve your problem.
I would have gone into much more detail earlier on in this, but I only have
a smart phone at this point, and typing is a PITA.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 17:24, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i
> checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident
> not happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.
>
> i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up
> and dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.
>
> the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light
> so thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts
> and barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just
> cranks.
>
> so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of
> airbox can be messed with.
>
> i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know
> what to do except put all old stuff on and try again?
>
> i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBm1XvxpEfvuZ78EWWZGfsmrNa7Ow-dN-PZMbRfeqPiPsg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
special tool, which is basically a giant Allen wrench that requires a 3/8"
drive extension and ratchet to remove. There are notches in the flywheel,
and a pointer cast into the bell housing. As I recall, you have to plug a
vacuum line, and then shoot a timing light down the hole. Again, if I
recall correctly, there is one slightly wider notch in the flywheel, which
when aligned with the pointer, indicates TDC, or 180 degrees out without
the engine running. Then there is a slightly narrower notch, which
indicates correct timing when lined up with the pointer, and the engine
idling. If it doesn't line up exactly, you rotate the distributor until it
does.
The whole procedure is explained in the Bentley manual. It's been a long
time since I've done all this, so double check the Bentley to be sure my
memory is correct.
One other thing, you asked about fuel injectors. I researched larger
injectors when I was building my car, and with Motronic injection, there
were no options other than sending the stock ones out for balancing and
blueprinting, so unless you have one or more faulty injectors, that is not
likely part of the problem.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 14:53, "damac2004"  wrote:

> all new seals, etc.  i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?
>
> sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those
> before.
>
> i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head.  i believe chasis gti is
> 2.0
>
> i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google says
> 91-93 passat for both?
>
> when i got the car it had vacuum leaks this goes beyond that you can tell
> its not running right.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af6a3b5c-5f28-4ba4-a379-4a5a49924475%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dj2FX43ntU999Py%3DHmcP1Q8TDE6P0Mk1gHg%2BK4Xr5adw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

Since you must remove the intake manifold in order to access the cams, I
would start by using a spray bottle of water and spray where the intake
connects to the head, and the connection between the plenum and the lower
intake, depending on if you removed the intake as an assembly, or split the
plenum and lower intake. If the engine rpm drops when you spray around the
gasket areas, you've located at least part of the problem. Did you use new
gaskets when reinstalling the intake?

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 13:42, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
> You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
> otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
> do better if you held the throttle open.
> On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
>> experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
>> you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
>> experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
>> Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while
>> running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing.
>> Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got,
>> I would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning
>> with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly
>> basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't
>> want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be
>> factory standard parts.
>> I wish you luck!
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put
>>> what i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back
>>> on the car.
>>>
>>> verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a
>>> dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear
>>> with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no
>>> loading up of slack like the other setup.
>>>
>>> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put
>>> the distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i
>>> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air
>>> escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the
>>> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i
>>> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was
>>> chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to
>>> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little
>>> engine shake.
>>>
>>> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car
>>> screams up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the
>>> pedal wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later
>>> the rpms dropped and the car dies.
>>>
>>> i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables
>>> could be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or
>>> something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors
>>> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no
>>> adjustments on this cars throttle body.
>>>
>>> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was
>>> setup since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system
>>>> with a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be
>>>> some sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the
>>>> case of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm
>>>> keeps the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over
>>>> time, so on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain.
>>>> As I recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago,

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Holland Phillips

t;>>>
>>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
>>>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>>>
>>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
>>>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>>>
>>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>>
>>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part
>>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should
>>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>>
>>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>>>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock
>>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one
>>>> of these motors up close.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first
>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I
>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>>
>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like
>>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was
>>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im
>>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>>
>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>>> off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>
>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>>>> see what i have, a

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

ursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>>>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>>>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>>>> car back stock.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>>>> concerned.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>>>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
>>>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the
>>>> front of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>>>> mydiesel where mated.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>>>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
>>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says
>>>> 16v 2.0
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to
>>>> the left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
>>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
>>>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>>>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>>>> block is a big embossed A
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
>>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>>>> obviously the

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

This whole thing is an interesting quandary of mechanical engineering. You
have two camshafts, each with eight lobes. Each cam has a gear at one end,
with each gear having some number, but equal number of teeth. Then each cam
is connected via the gears by a roller chain. The rotational orientation in
relation to each other is critical. Then throw in the fact that the chain
must have a small amount of slack. On top of all that, both cams are driven
by a rubber belt, via a toothed wheel at the other end of one of the cams.
Now, the rubber belt is driven by another toothed wheel on the crankshaft,
and the rotational relationship between the two toothed wheels is also
critical. Then, the rubber belt is longer than it needs to be to just drive
the cams, because it has to also drive another intermediate shaft. Now
since rubber tends to stretch under tension, you have a tensioner.
Man, I think I'm getting a head ache!
And to think I used to love doing this stuff...
Well, I gotta go catch a bus 

~Holland
On Feb 13, 2016 15:26, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On my first 16-valve I also had trouble with my cams trying to get them
> lined up. I just thought the engine got weaker in the upper right range
> over time but the guy who bought it from me had the cams checked out and
> they were off by the slightest amount. I spent too much time trying to make
> sure they were perfect and it turned out they were not.  I don't know if I
> would try if there are no marks on the cams to begin with. That sounds
> difficult.
> On Feb 13, 2016 6:02 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yikes!  No orientation marks on the cams at all? At this point, I would
>> find a set of new or closely inspected by someone knowledgeable about cams
>> in general used cams, buy a new chain, and follow to the letter the
>> installation instructions contained in the Bentley manual. And get a new
>> timing belt and tensioner, just so you don't have to mess with the whole
>> cam thing anytime soon. You said you are in California. Where? I am in El
>> Cajon, and would be willing to help you out if you're close enough.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 13, 2016 14:41, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
>>> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
>>> touch when not parallel.
>>>
>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the
>>> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the
>>> cam gears is not perfect.
>>>
>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
>>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>>
>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
>>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>>
>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>
>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and
>>> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each
>>> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>
>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>
>>>
>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock
>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one
>>> of these motors up close.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:52:22 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>
>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first
>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I
>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>&

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system with a
long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be some
sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the case
of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm keeps
the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over time, so
on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain. As I
recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago, and
they were still readily available.

~Holland
On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is at.
>  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the
> tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume
> the slack is also present turning the other way.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up,
>> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth
>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.
>>
>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
>> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
>> touch when not parallel.
>>
>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the
>> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the
>> cam gears is not perfect.
>>
>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>
>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>
>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>
>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and
>> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each
>> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>
>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>
>>
>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.
>>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of
>> these motors up close.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
>> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
>> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>> those alignment marks MUST
>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>
>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with
>> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i
>> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running
>> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to
>> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>
>> i d

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-12 Thread Holland Phillips

When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.

~Holland
On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>
> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with
> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i
> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running
> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to
> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>
> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing
> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it
> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam
> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>
>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>
>>
>>
>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>
>>
>>
>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>
>>
>>
>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car
>> back stock.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>> concerned.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>
>>
>>
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>
>>
>>
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
>> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM,

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-05 Thread Holland Phillips

Not in California. Everything from '74 back is exempt. And if you do an
engine swap, you have to have all the emissions hardware and pass the tail
pipe test for the year of the engine, not the chassis.

~Holland
On Feb 5, 2016 14:12, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *damac2004
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>
>
>
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>
>
>
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>
>
>
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car
> back stock.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
> concerned.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
>
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
>
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
>
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
> for the 9A and be done with it.
>
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
> 2.0
>
>
>
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>
>
>
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
> block is a big embossed A
>
>
>
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
> utilize an ECU.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-04 Thread Holland Phillips

I don't recall Schrick cams having those colored stripes around the base
circles. I have concerns about the discoloration on some of the lobes. It's
difficult to tell from the picture if there is actual wear, or if it's
blueing from heat. Either way, I personally would have a professional
mechanic inspect them prior to putting a bunch of money into the motor. As
I mentioned previously, with the issues you've already described, I would
seriously consider tearing the entire engine down for inspection.

~Holland
On Feb 4, 2016 20:21, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> do these pictures ring a bell?  i can't really make out what that logo is.
>
>
> On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-8, Holland Phillips wrote:
>>
>> Yes, yes, no, the cams are more than likely Schrick cams. If so, they are
>> extremely high quality German made performance cams. They are available in
>> various duration/lift for both intake and exhaust. I have Schrick cams in
>> my '92 2.0 16V, running an asymetric setup, with 260 deg intake and 276 deg
>> exhaust. With a Quaife adjustable sprocket, Techtonics high lift valve
>> springs, and Titanium retainers. It would rev to over 8000 RPM. See
>> attached build sheet for information on how I built the entire car.
>>
>> On Feb 4, 2016 18:43, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>> >
>> > is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>> >
>> > i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>> >
>> > i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>> car back stock.
>> >
>> > On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>> >>
>> >> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>> concerned.
>> >>
>> >> ~Holland
>> >>
>> >> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>> >>>
>> >>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its
>> oil pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to
>> worry.
>> >>>
>> >>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end
>> with the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the
>> front of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>> >>>
>> >>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock
>> sensors which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v
>> and Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with
>> the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you
>> need for the 9A and be done with it.
>> >>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that
>> says 16v 2.0
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the bl

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread Holland Phillips

Something I want to present - with the issues you've described, I,
personally, would pull the engine and fully disassemble it and have the
block/crank/rods et all inspected and measured by a reputable machine shop.
With the issues known to exist, it would be a shame to spend the time and
money replacing and repairing them only to discover other issues currently
not obvious. Especially since it seems that the po appears to have done
some questionable work to the engine already. With new and viable used
parts becoming more difficult to procure, and expensive, it just makes
since, at least to me. Another option to consider, the 9A engine was used
in not only the '91-'92 16V GTI and Jetta, it was also used much more
commonly in the Passat through '94. So searching "automotive recyclers" for
a good used Passat 9A may be a good option. Also, most Passats came with
automatic transmissions, which isn't a problem, since you already appear to
have a good drive train, other than the engine.
Just my thoughts...
~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 12:06, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

> Agreed - the Mk2 chassis, like the contemporary Honduh chassis, accepts
> virtually ALL and ANY configuration of OE drivetrain in a mix-and-match
> set-up.  Some of the old-school 16v tricks included the 1.8l head on the
> 2.0l block b/c the 1.8l head flows better in stock trim.  To spice up
> power, run an exhaust cam in place of the intake cam on a 16v.
>
> Depending on where you live and how invasive your smog checks are, it's
> very possible to pass off a Mk2 as block-stock even though it's anything
> but inside.  In other words (and as the OP is finding), it's very difficult
> to see an external difference between a completely stock 2.0l engine and a
> 1.8l head on a 2.0l bottom-end.
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 2:57 PM, Steven Arguello <
> stevenargue...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My
> GTi had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never
> passed emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care
> of it. He sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic
> vehicle. No more emissions testing.
>
> On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004 <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty
> clear now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me
> to look at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different
> dimension!
>
> it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to
> feed the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit
> the bigger gear!
>
> the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil
> pump side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that
> part must be what people say hits.
>
> so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.
>
> so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had
> another motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis
> fueling stuff and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?
>
> oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
> concerned.
> ~Holland
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread Holland Phillips

The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
concerned.

~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
>> 2.0
>>
>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>
>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>> block is a big embossed A
>>
>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
>> utilize an ECU.
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
>> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>
>>
>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
>> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>
>>
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>
>> the head says:  051103373
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v
>> <https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v>.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
>> msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroup

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread Holland Phillips

Good point Steve. There are a bunch of other ways to tell, but they are far
too numerous for me to type on a phone.

~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 12:58, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it.
> I realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the
> oil cooler, the 1.8 only has one.
>
> On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>
>
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>
>>>
>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>
>>> the head says:  051103373
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/22ADE48B-6EF9-46BC-BCD2-B73D3E433E30%40gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DoMW3DWYxXk45vX8YeB518XV_wB2Z%2BFkdfi0p1Y3Ds7w%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread Holland Phillips

Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
utilize an ECU.

~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:

> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>
>
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>
>>>
>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>
>>> the head says:  051103373
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DPLhC4ZbF9mFA5PzLuCOd%3Ds_9dB7cUh_pqx8t2YrEong%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread Holland Phillips

Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for the 9A and be done with it.
On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 wrote:1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.02. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed Ai'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. this still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an ECU.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" wrote:the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there :(im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i attached, down below that is the part number.On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" wrote:is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few and differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.the block says: 051 103 021the head says: 051103373

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/33062c26-dbb3-4369-acf6-2e486b9b935d%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cf11ed67-7722-4582-8a78-fbfa7bbc8856%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread Holland Phillips

I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.

~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>
>
> the block says:  051 103 021
>
> the head says:  051103373
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBnSsgNR5O6Ju3LPanX9BLuLZchaFax-eFdOakvjqb12bw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes

2016-01-30 Thread Holland Phillips

Ah, My. Hamilton!  I lived at the base of that road for over thirty years.
It was my personal race course...

~Holland
On Jan 30, 2016 12:59, "Arnold del Mundo" <adelmu...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I use Google Maps by first adding the endpoints and any major stops. Then
> I change the default route by dragging it to roads I want to use. Click on
> the details of the route once you’re done. From here you can share the
> route by either copying the very long web address (URL) or clicking the
> share icon and getting the shortened URL. Using Google street view is also
> a great way for people to preview the road type, scenic views, etc.
>
> Here’s an example using a twisty route that we used to take a long time
> ago, the 1001 turns of Mt. Hamilton drive.
> https://goo.gl/maps/WcZ7C4pCbPJ2
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Les Noriel <les.nor...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 30, 2016 11:35 AM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes
>
>
> I don't know if there is an equivalent for automobiles but on a bicycle
> GPS equipped riders can upload their GPS breadcrumbs on a route they've
> travelled and share their routes or trails with other riders. Others can
> download the routes to find new trails, race against the OP virtually, or
> notify others of your presence on the trail.  It's a great way to find new
> routes.  One such app is Strava. Don't know if there is a Strava for cars.
>
> Les
> On Jan 30, 2016 12:38 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I've used an app called Waze in the past, but have no idea if it's what
>> you're looking for. It does allow you to share traffic information in real
>> time, so maybe it will work for what you're trying to accomplish.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 30, 2016 09:34, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> What is the best way to share driving routes? Google Maps or a GPS is
>>> going to take you a certain direction every time. What I want to do is get
>>> the routes from some nice driving roads then share those with others.
>>> There is a car club in the Tampa area that I know has specific route that
>>> they drive on occasion but I don't even know how they save and share those
>>> other than a printed map.
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmxUrobdJAebHG6gBXm4hFLkzqGQVjEG-Bw5Ej2mzrrRg%40mail.gmail.com
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmxUrobdJAebHG6gBXm4hFLkzqGQVjEG-Bw5Ej2mzrrRg%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CAEpuu2O5U0RgDFNx8n35qc2DZOw6W7Hsdvvh6%3DctMA4gB1Ohzw%40mail.gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CAEpuu2O5U0RgDFNx8n35qc2DZOw6W7Hsdvvh6%3DctMA4gB1Ohzw%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>

Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes

2016-01-30 Thread Holland Phillips

Les,
My house was just east of Piedmont Road off Penitincia Creek. Piedmont
turns into White Road at Penitincia...

~Holland
On Jan 30, 2016 13:18, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I rode my bicycle up Mt. Hamilton a couple times. The first time I was
> chased off the road by a cow.  True story!
>
> Holland I remember you once told me you had lived in my old neighborhood.
> Although I'm now in Southern California, My family still lives near
> Piedmont Road.
> On Jan 30, 2016 4:02 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Ah, My. Hamilton!  I lived at the base of that road for over thirty
>> years. It was my personal race course...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 30, 2016 12:59, "Arnold del Mundo" <adelmu...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I use Google Maps by first adding the endpoints and any major stops.
>>> Then I change the default route by dragging it to roads I want to use.
>>> Click on the details of the route once you’re done. From here you can share
>>> the route by either copying the very long web address (URL) or clicking the
>>> share icon and getting the shortened URL. Using Google street view is also
>>> a great way for people to preview the road type, scenic views, etc.
>>>
>>> Here’s an example using a twisty route that we used to take a long time
>>> ago, the 1001 turns of Mt. Hamilton drive.
>>> https://goo.gl/maps/WcZ7C4pCbPJ2
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Les Noriel <les.nor...@gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, January 30, 2016 11:35 AM
>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes
>>>
>>>
>>> I don't know if there is an equivalent for automobiles but on a bicycle
>>> GPS equipped riders can upload their GPS breadcrumbs on a route they've
>>> travelled and share their routes or trails with other riders. Others can
>>> download the routes to find new trails, race against the OP virtually, or
>>> notify others of your presence on the trail.  It's a great way to find new
>>> routes.  One such app is Strava. Don't know if there is a Strava for cars.
>>>
>>> Les
>>> On Jan 30, 2016 12:38 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've used an app called Waze in the past, but have no idea if it's what
>>>> you're looking for. It does allow you to share traffic information in real
>>>> time, so maybe it will work for what you're trying to accomplish.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Jan 30, 2016 09:34, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> What is the best way to share driving routes? Google Maps or a GPS is
>>>>> going to take you a certain direction every time. What I want to do is get
>>>>> the routes from some nice driving roads then share those with others.
>>>>> There is a car club in the Tampa area that I know has specific route that
>>>>> they drive on occasion but I don't even know how they save and share those
>>>>> other than a printed map.
>>>>> --
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>>> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>>> .
>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>>> To

Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes

2016-01-30 Thread Holland Phillips

I've used an app called Waze in the past, but have no idea if it's what
you're looking for. It does allow you to share traffic information in real
time, so maybe it will work for what you're trying to accomplish.

~Holland
On Jan 30, 2016 09:34, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> What is the best way to share driving routes? Google Maps or a GPS is
> going to take you a certain direction every time. What I want to do is get
> the routes from some nice driving roads then share those with others.
> There is a car club in the Tampa area that I know has specific route that
> they drive on occasion but I don't even know how they save and share those
> other than a printed map.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmxUrobdJAebHG6gBXm4hFLkzqGQVjEG-Bw5Ej2mzrrRg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Impact of wheel weight on acceleration

2016-01-14 Thread Holland Phillips

The rule of thumb on unsprung weight vs. sprung weight is one pound off the
unsprung weight is worth ten pounds off sprung weight. Works the same for
bicycles, as I'm sure Les knows. A pound off the bike itself is worth the
rider losing ten.
The BBS RC's in 16x7.5 weigh 15.5 pounds, WAY lighter than anything else
available in the same size back in '95.
The two piece BBS 15" wheels which came stock on '92 GTI 16V's were
extremely light. I only went with the RC's was to fit 312mm two piece front
rotors and Wilwood four piston calipers. Being able to run 225/40-16 tires
was a bonus.
All this is making wish I had the resources to go back to Mexico and
retrieve my beloved 16V. The story of how it ended up there is way too long
to type on a phone, and I'm sure no one cares anyway...

~Holland
On Jan 14, 2016 14:06, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I remember an article in the old European Car magazine that dealt with the
> topic of wheel mass and its effect on acceleration and deceleration. One
> other observation was that suspension control improved because of the lower
> unsprung weight at each corner
>
> There was another article which used a dyno to measure benefits of a
> lightweight flywheel. At certain rpms, the engine actually created more
> measurable horsepower in certain gears.
>
> Wheel weights are difficult to obtain unless you measure them yourself. I
> remember 15" VW wheels at around 19lbs while a tire added another 10-
> 15lbs.   I was shocked to see some aftermarket wheels tilted the scale at
> 30+ lbs!
>
> Today's modern vehicles have wheel and tire combinations that tip the
> scale at over 150 lbs each!
> On Jan 14, 2016 10:33 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I think to put it in a nutshell, as far as acceleration is concerned,
>> it's wheel RPM where the benefits of less rotating mass are manifested...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 14, 2016 10:24, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know if you would say the impact of the tire weight varies based
>>> on gear.  The acceleration benefits with lighter weight wheels/tires are
>>> greater the faster they are accelerating.  In the same way, a lower weight
>>> flywheel, pulley,or other rotating piece would provide more benefit when
>>> the engine rpm is changing quickly, so lower gears are where the benefits
>>> would be most noticeable.
>>>
>>> Maybe we are saying the same thing?  I spent too much time thinking
>>> about this already :)
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 12:04 PM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Seems like each gear would have different gains on wheel weight
>>>> reduction so it would depend on what your end goal is but generally less
>>>> unspring weight seems to be “better” (and more expensive per size)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rotational Inertia - Equivalent Mass
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR3nVx1aaTo
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 14, 2016 11:43 AM
>>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Impact of wheel weight on acceleration
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Back when I was building my '92 GTI 16V, I chose BBS RC 16x7.5 wheels
>>>> because they were the lightest wheels available at the time. I understood
>>>> the physics involved, as in the benefits of lower unsprung weight, less
>>>> rotational weight, etc. All these aspects greatly benefit handling,
>>>> braking, and acceleration. Not to mention I always loved the look of that
>>>> style of wheel. They are reminiscent of the BBS 3 piece wheels that were
>>>> used on the old Porsche RSR race cars from the early seventies, and
>>>> continued to be used by Porsche and BMW for years on their race cars.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Jan 13, 2016 19:53, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I had never really seen a test like this done.  The impact on
>>>> acceleration is more than I would expect.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>>&

Re: [mk2-16v] Impact of wheel weight on acceleration

2016-01-14 Thread Holland Phillips

Back when I was building my '92 GTI 16V, I chose BBS RC 16x7.5 wheels
because they were the lightest wheels available at the time. I understood
the physics involved, as in the benefits of lower unsprung weight, less
rotational weight, etc. All these aspects greatly benefit handling,
braking, and acceleration. Not to mention I always loved the look of that
style of wheel. They are reminiscent of the BBS 3 piece wheels that were
used on the old Porsche RSR race cars from the early seventies, and
continued to be used by Porsche and BMW for years on their race cars.

~Holland
On Jan 13, 2016 19:53, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> I had never really seen a test like this done.  The impact on acceleration
> is more than I would expect.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC_oP8WwXMCVn6RzJLcc9-Vca8WYjzgBOGkQ7G3c_YZeXA%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dns%3Dj5yd%3DqWPcUCqE8p6YQonkeM1B33z4tybj54pO9hw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

2015-12-26 Thread Holland Phillips

Ah, so there IS a high/low oil pressure buzzer. One of the first things I
did after purchasing my '92 GTI 16V back in '94, was to remove the relay
that has a little speaker in the top that is responsible for the door
ajar/seat belt not fastened chime. I bet that same device is used for the
oil pressure audible alerts. I have always hated it when I intentionally
leave a car door open with the key in the ignition, and the damn thing
insistantly dings away at me. With all the electronic nannys incorporated
into new vehicles, I would surely be driven insane. At least with the OBDII
port allowing you to tap into the various computers in all new vehicles,
you can disable some or all of those electronic irritants.
Oh, and another thing I did first off, was remove the relay that prevents
the car from starting unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Long
about the time that" feature" was first introduced, I had a mechanic friend
of mine tell me that starting a car while the clutch is engaged puts over a
hundred pounds of pressure on the end of the crank shaft, thus putting a
whole lot of pressure against the thrust washer/bearing, while there is no
oil pressure. Not a good thing if a looking for long engine life. Which
brings up another possibility for explaining the issues this guy is
experiencing. If the crank has developed a bunch of end play, that could
explain the noises, as well as the shavings he's seeing. To check for this,
first take a heavy soft faced mallet and smack the crank damper a few times
towards the transmission. Then use a large pry bar between the damper and
the timing cover and pry the crank away from the transmission. If it moves
more than about .1", that would indicate that the crank shaft thrust
bearing is worn, or completely destroyed. Just for reference, the usual
spec for crank end play when assembling a new engine, is between
.04 - .08", depending on the specific engine.
The saga continues...

~Holland
On Dec 26, 2015 07:58, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

> Agreed that there are multiple issues.
>
> Most likely the noise from the drive belts is the insulator on the water
> pump pulley that, in OE configuration, ran 2 different pulleys for 2
> belts.  The pulleys were insulated from each other with a piece of cloth
> that wears over time allowing the pulleys to wobble slightly and create all
> kinds of noise.  The other issue could be the crank pulley - either the
> harmonic balancer or the pulley set.  What often happens is that the
> harmonic balancer loosens up with age and it starts to wobble which damages
> the crank nose.
>
> With regards to the oil pressure buzzer - that buzzer sounds for both high
> and low pressure.  Unless you're running a gauge, it's a guess as to
> whether the issue is high or low pressure.  I don't remember if pulling the
> leads will disable the buzzer but that's a good start - if I only could
> remember which sensor is which...
>
> The IM bearing is a sealed unit - I haven't had one fail but that doesn't
> mean it hasn't happened.  What colour are the shavings?  If they're shiny,
> chances are that they're metal but hopefully they're just plastic bits -
> from what I recall, the lower front cover on my car had a hole in it from
> the harmonic balancer.  It wasn't detrimental nor even audible, just
> annoying.
>
>
> On Friday, December 25, 2015 2:07 PM, "jlagn...@massed.net" <
> jlagn...@massed.net> wrote:
>
>
> You can use a mechanic's stethoscope, large screwdriver, large extension,
> or a hose to isolate the source of the sounds.
>
> --
> *From: *"Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> *To: *mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Sent: *Friday, December 25, 2015 12:43:31 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started
> loping, and screeching noises in engine bay
>
> I was thinking the same thing. But with the symptoms he's reporting, the
> possibilities are numerous. Since the engine starts and runs, I would be
> looking at the rotating ancilliaries.
> Do any of the pulleys wobble? Since it sounds like someone removed the
> A/C, they may have messed up something with the v-belt system, depending on
> exactly how they removed the A/C compressor. Like did they leave all the
> pulleys in place, except the one on the compressor itself? As I recall, the
> A/C drive belt is a wider, heavier duty belt than the rest. Then I wonder
> if the power steering pump and water pump are turning freely. If one of
> those is frozen, or partially locked up, that could be a problem. As I
> mentioned before, trying to trouble shoot this via textual description is
> nigh on impossible. If any of one of our more knowledgeable members is
> located geographically close

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

2015-12-25 Thread Holland Phillips

I was thinking the same thing. But with the symptoms he's reporting, the
possibilities are numerous. Since the engine starts and runs, I would be
looking at the rotating ancilliaries.
Do any of the pulleys wobble? Since it sounds like someone removed the A/C,
they may have messed up something with the v-belt system, depending on
exactly how they removed the A/C compressor. Like did they leave all the
pulleys in place, except the one on the compressor itself? As I recall, the
A/C drive belt is a wider, heavier duty belt than the rest. Then I wonder
if the power steering pump and water pump are turning freely. If one of
those is frozen, or partially locked up, that could be a problem. As I
mentioned before, trying to trouble shoot this via textual description is
nigh on impossible. If any of one of our more knowledgeable members is
located geographically close to this guy, maybe we could be of more help.

~Holland
On Dec 25, 2015 09:14, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> One idea I thought might be part of the problem. Check that the timing
> belt tensioner is good. When those bearings go bad, it can make a lot of
> noise (buzzer?) It can also compromise timing which would make the motor
> run badly, especially if the belt jumped a tooth.   Just a thought
>
> Les
> On Dec 25, 2015 8:27 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Another thing you could do that may help to identify the source of the
>> problem is take a magnet, like one of those extendable magnetic retrievers,
>> and see if it picks up the metallic shavings you mentioned. If they're non
>> magnetic, then it may indicate that something is rubbing against the head.
>> Just a suggestion...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Dec 24, 2015 23:29, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> sorry this car has a 16v motor.  i have been driving it for a couple
>>> months so the noise and loping is definately different and made me want to
>>> shut the car off.
>>>
>>> no ac hardware installed i think somebody yanked it and did things the
>>> wrong way.
>>>
>>> i got a bently manual and assume i will have to break things down to
>>> check, i guess i was just looking for some real world experience.
>>>
>>> i just assumed something was getting jammed up in a way to put load on
>>> the timing belt side to make it lope at idle.  but that coupled with the
>>> oil light and shavings near the im shaft makes me fear its the engine side.
>>>   i can't even move a pulley when tugging by hand right now.
>>>
>>> i had a diesel vacuum pump sieze up once and stopped the im shaft dead.
>>>  you could hear the belt screeching, oil light went off and you could smell
>>> the belt.  that was the craziest thing i have ever seen, was using a rotary
>>> type and the gear shaved grooves into the cover.
>>>
>>>
>>> after i got it towed home last night i had to start it and move it onto
>>> the driveway.  started and ran as normal with no oil pressure light but i
>>> didn't want to warm it up.  wasn't loping but all the clattery
>>> racket/scratching can be heard especially after stabbing the throttle and
>>> letting off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 10:35:01 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the
>>>> oil pump. If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The
>>>> 16v dizzy runs off the cam.
>>>> Does it have A/C?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and planned
>>>> on using it as a project to restore for fun.  I have been driving it as is
>>>> because it worked.  I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect
>>>> but it was getting me around ok with no funky noises.
>>>>
>>>> Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure
>>>> oil buzzer constantly started going off.  I heard a racket of screeches and
>>>> clunks in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed.  So too
>>>> many wierd things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i
>>>> probably ran the car about a minute after before turning it off.  just
>>>> putting my safety first because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a
>>>> m

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

2015-12-25 Thread Holland Phillips

It just occurred to me that finding this problem may be easier than I
originally thought. Since there seems to be some sort of metal shavings
visible externally, the source of those also should be visible externally.
Time for a flash light and one of those small extendable mirrors. Or one of
those "snake" cameras (Endoscope in medicaleese).

~Holland
On Dec 25, 2015 09:43, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was thinking the same thing. But with the symptoms he's reporting, the
> possibilities are numerous. Since the engine starts and runs, I would be
> looking at the rotating ancilliaries.
> Do any of the pulleys wobble? Since it sounds like someone removed the
> A/C, they may have messed up something with the v-belt system, depending on
> exactly how they removed the A/C compressor. Like did they leave all the
> pulleys in place, except the one on the compressor itself? As I recall, the
> A/C drive belt is a wider, heavier duty belt than the rest. Then I wonder
> if the power steering pump and water pump are turning freely. If one of
> those is frozen, or partially locked up, that could be a problem. As I
> mentioned before, trying to trouble shoot this via textual description is
> nigh on impossible. If any of one of our more knowledgeable members is
> located geographically close to this guy, maybe we could be of more help.
>
> ~Holland
> On Dec 25, 2015 09:14, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> One idea I thought might be part of the problem. Check that the timing
>> belt tensioner is good. When those bearings go bad, it can make a lot of
>> noise (buzzer?) It can also compromise timing which would make the motor
>> run badly, especially if the belt jumped a tooth.   Just a thought
>>
>> Les
>> On Dec 25, 2015 8:27 AM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Another thing you could do that may help to identify the source of the
>>> problem is take a magnet, like one of those extendable magnetic retrievers,
>>> and see if it picks up the metallic shavings you mentioned. If they're non
>>> magnetic, then it may indicate that something is rubbing against the head.
>>> Just a suggestion...
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Dec 24, 2015 23:29, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> sorry this car has a 16v motor.  i have been driving it for a couple
>>>> months so the noise and loping is definately different and made me want to
>>>> shut the car off.
>>>>
>>>> no ac hardware installed i think somebody yanked it and did things the
>>>> wrong way.
>>>>
>>>> i got a bently manual and assume i will have to break things down to
>>>> check, i guess i was just looking for some real world experience.
>>>>
>>>> i just assumed something was getting jammed up in a way to put load on
>>>> the timing belt side to make it lope at idle.  but that coupled with the
>>>> oil light and shavings near the im shaft makes me fear its the engine side.
>>>>   i can't even move a pulley when tugging by hand right now.
>>>>
>>>> i had a diesel vacuum pump sieze up once and stopped the im shaft dead.
>>>>  you could hear the belt screeching, oil light went off and you could smell
>>>> the belt.  that was the craziest thing i have ever seen, was using a rotary
>>>> type and the gear shaved grooves into the cover.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> after i got it towed home last night i had to start it and move it onto
>>>> the driveway.  started and ran as normal with no oil pressure light but i
>>>> didn't want to warm it up.  wasn't loping but all the clattery
>>>> racket/scratching can be heard especially after stabbing the throttle and
>>>> letting off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 10:35:01 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the
>>>>> oil pump. If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The
>>>>> 16v dizzy runs off the cam.
>>>>> Does it have A/C?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and
>>>>> planned on using it as a project to re

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

2015-12-25 Thread Holland Phillips

Another thing you could do that may help to identify the source of the
problem is take a magnet, like one of those extendable magnetic retrievers,
and see if it picks up the metallic shavings you mentioned. If they're non
magnetic, then it may indicate that something is rubbing against the head.
Just a suggestion...

~Holland
On Dec 24, 2015 23:29, "damac2004"  wrote:

> sorry this car has a 16v motor.  i have been driving it for a couple
> months so the noise and loping is definately different and made me want to
> shut the car off.
>
> no ac hardware installed i think somebody yanked it and did things the
> wrong way.
>
> i got a bently manual and assume i will have to break things down to
> check, i guess i was just looking for some real world experience.
>
> i just assumed something was getting jammed up in a way to put load on the
> timing belt side to make it lope at idle.  but that coupled with the oil
> light and shavings near the im shaft makes me fear its the engine side.   i
> can't even move a pulley when tugging by hand right now.
>
> i had a diesel vacuum pump sieze up once and stopped the im shaft dead.
>  you could hear the belt screeching, oil light went off and you could smell
> the belt.  that was the craziest thing i have ever seen, was using a rotary
> type and the gear shaved grooves into the cover.
>
>
> after i got it towed home last night i had to start it and move it onto
> the driveway.  started and ran as normal with no oil pressure light but i
> didn't want to warm it up.  wasn't loping but all the clattery
> racket/scratching can be heard especially after stabbing the throttle and
> letting off.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 24, 2015 at 10:35:01 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the oil
>> pump. If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The 16v
>> dizzy runs off the cam.
>> Does it have A/C?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004  wrote:
>>
>> I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and planned
>> on using it as a project to restore for fun.  I have been driving it as is
>> because it worked.  I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect
>> but it was getting me around ok with no funky noises.
>>
>> Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure
>> oil buzzer constantly started going off.  I heard a racket of screeches and
>> clunks in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed.  So too
>> many wierd things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i
>> probably ran the car about a minute after before turning it off.  just
>> putting my safety first because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a
>> motor.
>>
>> i had to work and came back to cold car.  i have good fluids and started
>> it up for a bit.  it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't
>> know if these cars typically do that while warming up.  it wasn't loping
>> the same.  i reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the
>> racket sounded like its on the drive belt system.  while engine was running
>> only odd thing i noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft
>> from the lower plastic timing belt cover.  couldn't quite tell if another
>> pully was actually touching it.
>>
>> im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it
>> would do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im
>> shaft without interference?
>>
>> is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up?
>>  i sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer.  it
>> has power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts.
>>
>> or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im
>> bearings and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting?
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

2015-12-24 Thread Holland Phillips

High pressure oil buzzer? In my twenty plus years of owning and working on
Mk2 16V VW's, this is the first time I've heard of the existence of a high
pressure oil alarm. At least with the 2.0 liter Motronic models, there
isn't even an audible low pressure oil pressure alarm. Only a red idiot
lamp, which illuminates when the ignition is switched on, and will
disappear once the engine starts. I believe that the warning lamp will
illuminate if the oil pressure drops below something like 7 - 10psi. An
engine with worn main bearings, or if the oil level is over about one quart
low may cause the warning lamp to flicker at idle, or possibly fully
illuminate if things are really bad. The other symptoms you describe could
be caused by a lot of issues. I suggest removing the upper timing belt
cover and perform a thorough visual inspection. Unfortunately, removing the
lower timing belt cover requires removing all the v- belts, as well as the
crank shaft pulley and crank damper. Also, I would check the main crank
damper bolt. If that were to loosen, the damper could start wobbeling,
which may explain the shavings in the bottom of the timing cover. There are
many other possible explanations for your issues, but things like this are
difficult to troubleshooting via textual explainations.
I wish you luck, and always feel free to ask questions as they arise.

~Holland
On Dec 24, 2015 20:25, "damac2004"  wrote:

> I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and planned on
> using it as a project to restore for fun.  I have been driving it as is
> because it worked.  I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect
> but it was getting me around ok with no funky noises.
>
> Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure oil
> buzzer constantly started going off.  I heard a racket of screeches and
> clunks in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed.  So too
> many wierd things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i
> probably ran the car about a minute after before turning it off.  just
> putting my safety first because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a
> motor.
>
> i had to work and came back to cold car.  i have good fluids and started
> it up for a bit.  it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't
> know if these cars typically do that while warming up.  it wasn't loping
> the same.  i reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the
> racket sounded like its on the drive belt system.  while engine was running
> only odd thing i noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft
> from the lower plastic timing belt cover.  couldn't quite tell if another
> pully was actually touching it.
>
> im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it
> would do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im
> shaft without interference?
>
> is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up?
>  i sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer.  it
> has power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts.
>
> or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im
> bearings and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmB02_ufZgDJKc9LTQmFFNy6D7aWgYLJZcx%3Dd32Py%2BrNg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

2015-12-24 Thread Holland Phillips

As I recall, the largest item I was able to carry in my '92 GTI 16V was a
new 27" CRT television in its full packaging. I may have had to fold down
the rear seat and use bungy cords to hold the hatch down. That was prior to
installing the Neuspeed triangulated rear stress bar. Once that was in,
carrying large single items was not an option. I ended up completely
removing the rear seat to save weight, and I never had the need to carry
more than one passenger. But I did have a full size Chevy Blazer, and a
couple of other vehicles, so the GTI became pretty much a race car that I
drove on the street.

~Holland
On Dec 24, 2015 08:48, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all
> our cars are small.
>
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to
> take it to the dump for me.
>
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack
> on it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large
> item on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be
> wasted space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit
> anything inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room
> nor desire to own a pick up truck.
>
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily
> is an Audi B5 A4).
>
> -Larry
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/e91861b7cb534f2b8914a4f374e1a468%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3D-YHfXY%3DAEjk%2Btba5P1DYxNrxD_EH1pfNbryqEwx4phg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

RE: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

2015-12-24 Thread Holland Phillips

Ah, the notorious Home Owners Association. I bet you can't choose what
color you want to paint your house either, right?

~Holland
On Dec 24, 2015 09:21, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> That Harbor Freight trailer hitch sounds like a good option for the
> occasional haul of stuff.   I forgot you had this thing.  So wish I had a
> storage shed for something like this.  I am not allowed to have a shed in
> my community.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Chad Rebuck
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 24, 2015 12:09 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?
>
>
>
> One of our cars is a Focus Wagon with the ztec 16v engine.  It can haul
> quite a bit of stuff especially when the rear seats are folded flat. In
> addition to that I have a trailer hitch on two of our cars for towing a 4x8
> harbor freight folding trailer.  The trailer folds up and is stored in my
> garage out of the way when not in use.  It will carry 1000 pounds easily.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 24, 2015 at 11:48 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
>
> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all
> our cars are small.
>
>
>
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to
> take it to the dump for me.
>
>
>
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack
> on it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large
> item on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be
> wasted space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit
> anything inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>
>
>
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>
>
>
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>
>
>
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room
> nor desire to own a pick up truck.
>
>
>
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily
> is an Audi B5 A4).
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/e91861b7cb534f2b8914a4f374e1a468%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-YzdVz_fOXJoBxHV7%3D4EFAtoB00fY%2BXQ4mpB2X209gsg%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/2943384ed73e4ee9ba12f752b2d274dc%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on

RE: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread

2015-12-18 Thread Holland Phillips

Funny you should mention that. I have used Kendall GT1 20W-50 for over 25
years. I ran it in all my vehicles before the advent of synthetic oils. I
continued to use it in everything except my 16V mainly due to cost, and the
fact that some of my vehicles had some form of oil leak, and having
$10+/quart oil ending up on the driveway didn't make good financial sense.
Kendall was originally recommended to me by the engine builder who built
the 383 stroker motor for my '78 Blazer. His second choice was Valvoline
Racing 20W-50. At the top of his "avoid at all cost" list was Penzoil.
Another interesting quality of Kendall GT1 is that it has a greenish color
as opposed to the golden hue of most motor oils. Also, availability can be
an issue. Many of the big chain auto parts places don't carry it, at least
in California.

~Holland

Anyone ever try Kendall 20W-50 (Conventional Dyno Juice) in the 16v engine?

Saw someone trying to make a case for using conventional oil on older
engines (vs synthentic oil):

‘I use those oils for their higher ZDDP content, which reduces wear on the
internals of the engine. There is no reason to run synthetic in an older
engine since the oil and filter changes need to remain at or below the
original recommendations. Contamination of the oil occurs long before the
oil's lubricating properties are exhausted on these engines.’

-Larry

*From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
*Sent:* Monday, December 14, 2015 10:07 AM
*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread

I'm a big fan of Rotella T6 as well - I used it in my TDI and my PowerPoker
with great success. For the Mk2 cars, it's a great choice because it's
heavy enough that there aren't oil pressure issues when the oil gets HOT.

I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in the racecar b/c it's cheap and it works - I
wouldn't use that on the street car though b/c it's too thin when the temps
get high. After an on-track session, at idle, the oil pressure light would
wink at me incessantly. On a street car, this is a bad thing - on the
racecar, the engine gets torn down every few years so wear is less of a
concern than the neverending quest for more HP.

For transmisison lube - on the VW, I run Mobil 1 as well b/c I have a
Quaife. When I called Quaife, I asked specifically about Red Line b/c I
work for a Red Line dealer. The reply was very coy and deceptive b/c the
stock answer was "Use factory synthetic". I finally had to ask bluntly
about Red Line which elicited "Red Line is an excellent product BUT it
doesn't work well with a Quaife". Why? Apparently it has too many solids
- as a result, I went with Mobil 1 although I'd probably use Synchromesh
now that I've started using it in my daily driver (Accord - don't ask).

Matthew

On Monday, December 14, 2015 12:31 AM, Les Noriel
wrote:

I have not yet decided on what to use in my 2.0l 16V. The engine and trans
have been rebuilt.

I've been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic on my 1.8T with good results and
thought I might use the Mobil 1 equivalent in the proper weight on the
Golf.

I had my AGB rebuilt by BrokeVW. Contrary to conventional wisdom, He
suggested changing transaxle oil on a regular basis just like engine oil.
He had no preference and said different trans oils work differently in each
individual 020. Some like OEM, others like Redline etc. He said his
experience is that they are all very different. He suggested experimenting
for best results and change frequently.

On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:34 PM, Chad Rebuck wrote:

I wasn't going to reply until I saw someone else using Rotella t6. I use
Pennzoil synchromesh in the transmission.

On Dec 12, 2015 6:50 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v"
wrote:

All my cars now get Shell Rotella T6 5w-40. O'Reillys has the gallon
containers on sale now for $22.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 12, 2015, at 4:28 PM, Larry Velez wrote:

So here it is, the 2015 oil thread debate.

What Brand and Weight of Oil are you guys using these days on your 16V?

(I had been using Mobil 1 15W50 until my car went into a comma)

Anyone using Lubro Molly 10 W 60 (Expensive stuff but some think the
thin-ness is liked by our high revving engines..)

Just to make it more interesting, what are you using in your Transmission?

-Larry

91 GTI 16V

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cb47836db08344b897fed4cad1e6f077%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET

RE: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread

2015-12-18 Thread Holland Phillips

Wow! From books to motor oil. Amazon never ceases to amaze me!

~Holland
On Dec 18, 2015 12:41, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Holland,
>
>
>
> Kendall is available on Amazon, which is about as convenient as it gets
> these days.
>
>
>
> $50 for a case of 12 Quarts (~$4.20/quart):
> http://www.amazon.com/Kendall-1057267-Performance-20W-50-Titanium/dp/B004RNSO2M
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Friday, December 18, 2015 3:38 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread
>
>
>
> Funny you should mention that. I have used Kendall GT1 20W-50 for over 25
> years. I ran it in all my vehicles before the advent of synthetic oils. I
> continued to use it in everything except my 16V mainly due to cost, and the
> fact that some of my vehicles had some form of oil leak, and having
> $10+/quart oil ending up on the driveway didn't make good financial sense.
> Kendall was originally recommended to me by the engine builder who built
> the 383 stroker motor for my '78 Blazer. His second choice was Valvoline
> Racing 20W-50. At the top of his "avoid at all cost" list was Penzoil.
> Another interesting quality of Kendall GT1 is that it has a greenish color
> as opposed to the golden hue of most motor oils. Also, availability can be
> an issue. Many of the big chain auto parts places don't carry it, at least
> in California.
>
> ~Holland
>
> Anyone ever try Kendall 20W-50 (Conventional Dyno Juice) in the 16v engine?
>
>
>
> Saw someone trying to make a case for using conventional oil on older
> engines (vs synthentic oil):
>
>
>
> ‘I use those oils for their higher ZDDP content, which reduces wear on the
> internals of the engine. There is no reason to run synthetic in an older
> engine since the oil and filter changes need to remain at or below the
> original recommendations. Contamination of the oil occurs long before the
> oil's lubricating properties are exhausted on these engines.’
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, December 14, 2015 10:07 AM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread
>
>
>
> I'm a big fan of Rotella T6 as well - I used it in my TDI and my
> PowerPoker with great success.  For the Mk2 cars, it's a great choice
> because it's heavy enough that there aren't oil pressure issues when the
> oil gets HOT.
>
>
>
> I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in the racecar b/c it's cheap and it works - I
> wouldn't use that on the street car though b/c it's too thin when the temps
> get high.  After an on-track session, at idle, the oil pressure light would
> wink at me incessantly.  On a street car, this is a bad thing - on the
> racecar, the engine gets torn down every few years so wear is less of a
> concern than the neverending quest for more HP.
>
>
>
> For transmisison lube - on the VW, I run Mobil 1 as well b/c I have a
> Quaife.  When I called Quaife, I asked specifically about Red Line b/c I
> work for a Red Line dealer.  The reply was very coy and deceptive b/c the
> stock answer was "Use factory synthetic".  I finally had to ask bluntly
> about Red Line which elicited "Red Line is an excellent product BUT it
> doesn't work well with a Quaife".  Why?  Apparently it has too many solids
> - as a result, I went with Mobil 1 although I'd probably use Synchromesh
> now that I've started using it in my daily driver (Accord - don't ask).
>
>
>
> Matthew
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, December 14, 2015 12:31 AM, Les Noriel <les.nor...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have not yet decided on what to use in my 2.0l 16V. The engine and trans
> have been rebuilt.
>
>
>
> I've been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic on my 1.8T with good results and
> thought I might use the Mobil 1 equivalent in the proper weight on the
> Golf.
>
>
>
>
>
> I had my AGB rebuilt by BrokeVW. Contrary to conventional wisdom, He
> suggested changing transaxle oil on a regular basis just like engine oil.
> He had no preference and said different trans oils work differently in each
> individual 020. Some like OEM, others like Redline etc. He said his
> experience is that they are all very different. He suggested experimenting
> for best results and change frequently.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:34 PM, Chad Rebuck <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I wasn't going to reply until I saw someone else using Rotella t6. I use
> Pennzoil synchromesh in the trans

RE: [mk2-16v] RE: Projects and Motivation

2015-12-13 Thread Holland Phillips

ust getting into the hype for our cars growing.  The hype
for BMWs of the same era has already exploded and I think VWs of the era
will ride some of that wave.   This will encourage aftermarket companies to
start producing restoration parts so it is easier for us to restore and
maintain these cars.



Here is some more inspiration in case you had not already seen this:
http://www.vwvortex.com/features/project-cars/1985-volkswagen-gti-restoration/



There is another impressive thread for a white Mk2 on vortex where the guy
has done a true nut and bolt restoration with tons of new parts but I can’t
find that thread right now.



-Larry

91 GTI 16V



*From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
<mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *Les Noriel
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 8, 2015 1:05 PM
*To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] Interesting find in Jacksonville, FL



Matthew makes a good point. Cars have really evolved in the past two
decades. Horsepower, traction, and safety have all made significant
advancements over the past few years. In addition, Our culture has really
grown accustomed to creature comforts. I've not seen a car with manual
window cranks in years. Power windows and locks with remote key access are
standard in virtually every vehicle sold today. My two VW projects are
crude by today's standards.

Personally, I've grown fond of the comforts of my Audi A4 which makes the
interior of the old MKIIs primitive by comparison. And it's ten years old!



Like many of us, my car projects have slowly progressed over a period of
decades. My wife has allowed me to use the garage for my projects rather
than parking cars. But I do need to finish them at some point. Parts are
getting more difficult to find. There's nothing I like more than seeing a
MKII VW restored and driving on the road.

 Sometimes I just need the time and motivation to keep progressing. I
recently peeked into my Golf 16V and noticed that the new fabric on the
headliner which I installed a few years back has fallen. *Sigh*!  I was so
proud of that achievement but now seems like I'll have to go back to square
one and do it again.



Recently, VW Heritage has asked me to critique some of their products for
Project MKII 16V and write it up in my project blog. So I'm looking through
their catalog now. It gives me something to rekindle the interest.



-Les





On Dec 8, 2015, at 8:48 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v wrote:



Ah yes, the world of abandoned projects.  My street car was a 97 Passat TDI
that is now for sale b/c of front-end damage.  I can't bring myself to
trash the car even with 424K miles on the odo BUT it's valueless to anyone
other than a fanatic.  Then again, I've met a Mk2 fanatic whose mission it
seems is to "save and restore all Mk2 VW products".  As much as I like the
cars, there are newer and better cars in the world...(blasphemy, yes).





On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 11:27 AM, Holland Phillips <
hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:



I had a '76 Mk1 that I was going to restore, probably into some sort of
race/street vehicle. It had a 1.6 8v motor with a terminal rod knock. Would
have been  cool to put a fully modded 2.0 TSI motor in it, with a 6 speed,
Quaife (sp?) etc.
It had a straight body with some surface rust, but that's about it. It sat
in my driveway almost 20 years, then finally got a free ride to the "Auto
Recycler".

~Holland

Yes - The Mk2 Slorocco, especially the 16v was essentially a very
overweight Rabbit.  I had one and it was tonnes of fun - not as visceral as
the Mk1 by any stretch of the imagination but much more connected than
anything VW has produced since that time frame.





On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 10:53 AM, Holland Phillips <
hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:



Matt,
I think you meant Mk 2 Scirocco, right?
'87 was Definitely Mk2...

~Holland

On Dec 8, 2015 07:47, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
wrote:

I have a hard time with "restored" - these cars just don't seem that old to
me BUT they're almost 30 years old at this point!!!  (Damn, I'm OLD too).



I should probably keep this to myself BUT as a non-sunroof car, this
restoration car would make a great racecar candidate (that is if the Mk1
Slorocco weren't such an overweight pig).



Matthew





On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 10:36 AM, Jack Simon <crabs...@gmail.com>
wrote:



http://bringatrailer.com/2015/12/07/nicely-restored-1987-volkswagen-scirocco-16v/

http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/5329045176.html

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.g

Re: [mk2-16v] Interesting find in Jacksonville, FL

2015-12-08 Thread Holland Phillips

Matt,
I think you meant Mk 2 Scirocco, right?
'87 was Definitely Mk2...

~Holland
On Dec 8, 2015 07:47, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" 
wrote:

> I have a hard time with "restored" - these cars just don't seem that old
> to me BUT they're almost 30 years old at this point!!!  (Damn, I'm OLD
> too).
>
> I should probably keep this to myself BUT as a non-sunroof car, this
> restoration car would make a great racecar candidate (that is if the Mk1
> Slorocco weren't such an overweight pig).
>
> Matthew
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 10:36 AM, Jack Simon 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> http://bringatrailer.com/2015/12/07/nicely-restored-1987-volkswagen-scirocco-16v/
>
> http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/5329045176.html
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/6373FBF4-C129-4AC6-B5FB-9A278540782C%40gmail.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/901474498.164811.1449589458036.JavaMail.yahoo%40mail.yahoo.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBmawPDDU9PmjfTW1rHn727XzjUp5FF01tw0xJ91mUbuKw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] AfterMarket Fuel Pump Hard Lines from VW Heritage

2015-12-07 Thread Holland Phillips

Probably a sure bet for 1.8L cars. Not sure on the 2.0, since they have a
Motronic system. The easiest way to determine for sure is look up the part
numbers on ETKA.

~Holland
On Dec 7, 2015 11:07, "Larry Velez"  wrote:

> This may be promising,  I am trying to find out more about whether these
> will fit our cars.
>
>
>
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1955ce84d0a7448dbafa4555680752a9%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkCFJOtcTJaEYJZrM6g0vq1N7TrUnth_pyJahaYWN_rJg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Gases from Old Plastic

2015-11-30 Thread Holland Phillips

I knew that Jack. I have a 25 year old brain trapped in an about to be 62
year old body. So, how's Social Security treating you?

~Holland
On Nov 30, 2015 08:20, "Jack Simon" <crabs...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hah!  Youngster!!  Bought my first car, a brand new 1962 VW Beetle, when I
> was 19!
>
> On 30 Nov 2015, at 11:12, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> I took the list over in 1998 at age 45. Do the math...
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/5BDAD8AC-B66E-4AD8-914B-82CFBD898918%40gmail.com
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/5BDAD8AC-B66E-4AD8-914B-82CFBD898918%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3D%2BKOPdLvgLiqYD3v-DCfNcv6Gtij8hiXZXgesnT2VrXw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

1 2 >

1 - 100 of 127 matches

Mail list logo