MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Trish Johnson

I am looking to upgrade to a better AF outfit. Can anyone on the list tell
me which of the MZ5, MZ5n and Z1P leave the leader out after film rewind.
90% of what I do is BW, so a camera that gobbles up the leader is a PITA.
(read MZ50).

Secondly, I have recently had an experience with my MZ50 and a bulk film
roll that bothers me about upgrading to the MZ series cameras. I loaded my
MZ50 with Ilford film from a bulk film roll (plastic screw in cannister).
After the film had finished (approx 36 frames) the camera rewound for a
little bit, but then stopped. I replaced the batteries and pressed used the
little nipple (blush) to rewind. Nothing. So I took the camera into the dark
room, opened the back, closed it again, and turned the camera on. Whirr to
first frame as you normally would with a new film. I used the nipple again
to rewind, however it went for a second or two and then stopped agian. I
eventually had to literally pull the film out of the camera.

Has this happened to anyone else. Is the rewind motor gutless?? It's
obviously got something to do with the bulk film cannister. I have not tried
it again for fear of losing a roll of film.

BTW, I'll be selling an MX, MX Winder and K35/2 to raise funds. I'll wait
till Friday to post the FS sign.

Darryn Richter
Adelaide, Australia
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Which lense to take?

2002-01-03 Thread Trish Johnson

Where are you headed?

Mid way through january i'm going on a road trip for two weeks or so. I've
been having thoughts for a while on what gear to take. I didn't want to take
all my gear incase the car was broken into or something similar. I'll be
shooting some landscapes and any other stuff that pops up

Darryn Richter
Adelaide Australia
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400 5.6 Takumar

2002-01-03 Thread Bob Rapp

I'm not sure that I should celebrate or not. I have won a BIN 400 f5.6
Takumar for about 45 US. It is said to have a permanently attached 2X
converter on it. Nothing is permanent. I will let the list if it is a door
stop or something usable - but for 45.00?

Regards,

Bob Rapp {:~)
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used equipment in Australia

2002-01-03 Thread Bob Rapp

Found on Ebay -
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1317594789

It is a 135 f2.5 Takumar, they do not mention SMCT but it looks identical to
mine.

Regards,

Bob Rapp {:~)
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Re: Resolution (New Year's, that is...)

2002-01-03 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Stephen Moore asked:
 Anybody made any photographical ones?

 My main one was to shoot at least one frame a day,
 but I've already broken it.  :-)

Last year I resolved to submit a photo to each month's PUG in 2001.
I made it -- sometimes just barely.

This year I've resolved to finally get an online portfolio posted
on my web site.  I'd like to promise myself to catch up on the
backlog of developed film to index, label, enter into my database,
sort, and evaluate to find the keepers, but I'm not sure I'll be
completely caught up by the end of 2002.  (Of course, if the 
exposed, undeveloped film in my freezer stays in my freezer, maybe
I will catch up.)

-- Glenn
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Re: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Jaume Lahuerta

Neither MZ-5 nor MZ-5n can do that. I don't know about
the Z1p.
However, yesterday I bought one of those kind of
'pincers' that are used to pull out the film from
inside the roll case. It costs around 12EUR here. It
is really easy to use and it seems to work fine (I
have only tested a couple of times).


--- Trish Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I am looking to upgrade to a better AF outfit. Can
 anyone on the list tell
 me which of the MZ5, MZ5n and Z1P leave the leader
 out after film rewind.
 90% of what I do is BW, so a camera that gobbles up
 the leader is a PITA.
 (read MZ50).
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

2002-01-03 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Paul F. Stregevsky suggested:
 By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at 
 50 percent of the price is a better value. I propose an alternative 
 definition of value: cost per photograph taken. By this definition, the 
 cheapest lens nearly always must win.

Shouldn't it be cost per photo-you're-satisfied-with, rather than
cost per frames exposed?  'Cause the quality of the lens just might
affect one number more than the other.

-- Glenn, trying to catch up
   on list mail while Excel
   recalculates a spreadsheet
   chock full of VLOOKUP() calls.
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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

2002-01-03 Thread Pat White

Hi, Rob!

The studio flash was triggered by the MZ-S's built-in flash.  The IR trigger
on the Bowens unit is really sensitive, and any flash will trip it,as well as
stereo remotes.  I've started to test lighting and poses with my old Polaroid
Spectra camera, as its built-in flash will also trigger the studio flash.
Polaroids with studio lighting are a pleasant surprise.  They're quite nice.

To minimize the influence of the MZ-S's built-in flash on the photo, I set
PF10 to 2 (sets the built-in flash as a wireless flash controller), but the
difference seems minor (your mileage may vary).  For the same reason, when
using the Polaroid, I set the brightness switch to dark.  The built-in flash
on my MZ-5n also allows cordless studio flash, a nice change after
occasionally pulling over light stands when backing up with a long lens, as
the F5P(L) TTL cord (used with a Metz 40MZ-3) isn't long enough.

Now here's something I'm curious about:  I can always see the flash in the
viewfinder, although that's supposed to be impossible.  It's more noticeable
with the big flash, and when I first got it last summer, I worried that the
the sync was off, but the pictures look fine.  I don't see an image, but a red
flash in the finder.  Could there be light spilling around the mirror?  Back
to you.

Pat White
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Re: I love ebay

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

I'll second that. I searched for years for Pentax SMC Tak screwmount
lenses and found only a few decent ones. Once I discovvered ebay, I was
able to find every lens I wanted in a matter of months. In the last
month, I was able to sell a medium format camera that I didn't use any
more and buy one I always wanted. I've bought some wonderful antique
jewelry for my wife and some nostalgia toys for my grown children. I
haven't had anywhere near as many transactions as JCO, but from the more
than 50 that I have been involved in, I only received two items that
were not acceptable. In both cases, the sellers refunded my money
without question.. Ebay is super.
Paul

J. C. O'Connell wrote:

 I have been buying and selling on ebay for 5 years.
 I LOVE it!

 I've gotten plenty of bargains and have never paid
 more than I bid ( of course).

 I have kept transaction records for 3 years now and my problem
 rate on buying is about 15% ( not too bad but more
 than I would like ).

 I have only gotten burned twice in more than 700
 deals ( about $80 wasted) Not bad at all.

 The ability to sell stuff at fairly good prices
 so fast is incredible.

 I collect cameras, records and HO slotcars. I have been
 able to find rare stuff in the last few years that I was
 searching for for 10-15 years/

 ITS GREAT

 JCO
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

Hi Bill,
The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
in the neighborhood of 550ppi. For 7x10 prints that means a file size of
about 55 meg. After a lot of experimenting, I came to realize that the
printer dpi rating had nothing to do with the ppii (or dpi) of the
picture file. Tom explains that the printer rating is just the stepping
rate of the print head. I'll buy that explanation. It seems logical.
Paul

William Robb wrote:

 I am in a bit of a quandry, and am hoping I can get a few
 answers from the list.
 I have been told that it is best to size the file to a divisor
 of the printer output.
 For example, my printer is capable of a maximum resolution of
 2880 dpi, and that the output ideally would be 360 dpi, or 720
 dpi, or some such.
 I have read a couple of posts now where the printer is being run
 at a somewhat oddball resolution, such as 743 ppi.
 So, is there any logic to what I have been told?
 Or does it not really matter?
 Thanks
 William Robb
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Re: Digital Printing: Bigger is Better

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

I have the Epson 1200, which was the first of the 12 series printers. The most
current, the 1280, is similar, although it uses a different type ink. My
printer has been very durable, having cranked out perhaps a thousand large,
hi-res prints and thousands of homework papers for my kids. If I were to
replace it today, I would go with the Epson 1280. The 2000P offers slightly
more archival capability, but it's inks aren't as brilliant as the 1280's, and
to my eye, the prints are not as attractive. One pro who I questioned uses a
1280 for color printing, and a 2000P, with special inks and software, for BW
printing.
Paul

Jody L. Reese wrote:

 Hi Paul,
 I have been following your thread and was wondering which Epson printer your
 using?  I have been thinking about the Epson Stylus Photo 2000P, but at its
 price tag I am a little hesitant.  I have heard of too many people who have
 had their Epson printhead go down and then sending the unit in for repair
 about 12 to 20 months after purchase.  What has your experiences been with
 your printer?

 - Original Message -
 From: Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 8:42 PM
 Subject: Re: Digital Printing: Bigger is Better

  Hi Rob,
  I wouldn't be surprised if the optimum source file for a 1440 dpi print on
 my
  Epson proved to be somewhere in between the 743 ppi file that I printed
 tonight
  and the 440 ppi file that I printed last week. From earlier experiments it
 seemed
  that optimum was in the high five hundred range, but it's difficult to say
 for
  sure without getting into microscopic examination of a number of prints.
 But as
  other posters have noted, it seems that it's well above the 350 ppi that
 is
  usually considered adequate for high end digital printing.
  Paul
  Rob Studdert wrote:
 
   On 2 Jan 2002 at 21:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:
  
   So I figured I'd go all the way,
and I scanned a nice, sharp 6x7 transparency at 4000 ppi. This yielded
 a
255 megabyte file, which translates to an 11.1 x 14.4 picture at 743
ppi. I then printed that file at 1440 dpi on my Epson 1200 (Just as I
did for the other files.). It is noticeably better than the 440 ppi 11
 x
14 print. Extremely sharp and photographic. Of course the 255 meg file
is a bear to work with, but it may well be worth the effort.
  
   This is interesting Paul, obviously the printer driver interprets the
 source
   file, the extra source data isn't squeezed into smaller dots, so I
 surmise that
   there must be a point of nil return and an optimum source file size for
 the
   given driver. I wonder where the difference originates from because I
 can't
   reconcile that it is simply due to the bigger file size above a certain
 point?
  
   Cheers,
   Rob Studdert
   HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
   Tel +61-2-9554-4110
   UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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SFXn Remote Control

2002-01-03 Thread Marcello Anselmi Tamburini

Hi everybody,

there is someone who can explain me which commands there are on the remote
control for SFXn?

thx

-- 
Marcello Anselmi Tamburini

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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

2002-01-03 Thread Rob Studdert

On 3 Jan 2002 at 2:41, Pat White wrote:

 Now here's something I'm curious about:  I can always see the flash in the
 viewfinder, although that's supposed to be impossible.  It's more noticeable
 with the big flash, and when I first got it last summer, I worried that the the
 sync was off, but the pictures look fine.  I don't see an image, but a red flash
 in the finder.  Could there be light spilling around the mirror?  Back to you.

Hi Pat,

As Michael indicated in his post earlier it seems that you are actually seeing 
the pre-flash containing the data transmission to the remote flashes happening 
before the actual flash for the exposure.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Re[2]: MZ-S: a couple of tips

2002-01-03 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Bruce Dayton wondered:
 I have 3 AF360FGZ's.  I can place one or more behind the camera body
 and they still fire without being about to *see* the popup flash.  I
 have read that section many times, but am not sure to it's
 explanation.  I'll do some more experimenting and report back.

Try it in a room draped in black velvet and see if that makes it
fail.  :-)

I know that with a normal optical slave, it doesn't take much
reflection to get the slave to trigger off a non-line-of-site
on-camera flash.  Figure with all that information being sent
back and forth, the situation described sounds a lot more 
finicky, but I could see it working...

-- Glenn
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Rob Studdert

On 3 Jan 2002 at 6:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Hi Bill,
 The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
 rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
 type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
 in the neighborhood of 550ppi. 

Did you check the link that Gerald provided?

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRINT/P400/P400A.HTM

Granted it's not specifically related to the Epson drivers but I would guess 
that it still has relevance.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: SNOW!

2002-01-03 Thread C or B Waters

- Original Message -
From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: SNOW!


 Two inches!  Geez, you could be in Buffalo!



Well we actually got 5-6 inches!  In a place with one snow-plow per county
(if you are lucky)  This is a mess! The city is virtually shut down.  I'm
trying to find my boots and heading out or some morning shots!

Cory Waters
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tonerbuys.com

2002-01-03 Thread Ed Mathews

Has anybody here ever delt with these people?

http://www.tonerbuys.com/

  It looks like generic ink to me, but the prices are incredible!  My
normal black cartrige for my Epson 740 usually sells for close to
$30.00, and here it's $5.50.  I wonder if it's OK for just printing
regular words on regular paper. 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

2002-01-03 Thread Pat White

Actually, I first noticed this with the MZ-5n, which doesn't do a pre-flash,
as far as I know, and I was using a PC cable with a Pentax hot shoe/PC
adapter.  It seems like I can see it with or without the built-in flash
activated.

Pat White
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Re: SNOW!

2002-01-03 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: C or B Waters
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:14 AM
Subject: Re: SNOW!



 Well we actually got 5-6 inches!  In a place with one
snow-plow per county
 (if you are lucky)  This is a mess! The city is virtually shut
down.  I'm
 trying to find my boots and heading out or some morning shots!

You guys have snow plows? Around here we call the snow removal
plan April.
William Robb
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

I'm replying to my own message, but I wanted to add that the critical
factor in sizing your file for printing is that you do not resample the
original scan. In other words, to achieve a 550 ppi resolution for a 7x10
picture file, you have to scan the 35mm negative at 4000ppi. When sizing it
in PhotoShop, make sure the resample box on the image size panel. is
not checked. The constrain proportions box should be checked. If I'm
working for an exact picture dimension, such as 7 x 10, I'll sometimes end
up with an odd pixel count that includes decimals, such as 554.9. I used to
adjust the picture dimension to make sure my ppi count ended up as a whole
number. I found that it doesn't matter. But resampling an image, even with
good software, will cause some degradation.
 The exception to the above would be if you only have access to a
lo-res scanner. In that case, PhotoShop resampling to a higher resolution
would be preferable to printing from the lo-res image. In other words, if
the highest ppi count you can achieve at 7 x 10 is 200 ppi, go ahead and
resize with resample turned on, and make it 400 ppi at 7 x 10.
Paul

Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Hi Bill,
 The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
 rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
 type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
 in the neighborhood of 550ppi. For 7x10 prints that means a file size of
 about 55 meg. After a lot of experimenting, I came to realize that the
 printer dpi rating had nothing to do with the ppii (or dpi) of the
 picture file. Tom explains that the printer rating is just the stepping
 rate of the print head. I'll buy that explanation. It seems logical.
 Paul

 William Robb wrote:

  I am in a bit of a quandry, and am hoping I can get a few
  answers from the list.
  I have been told that it is best to size the file to a divisor
  of the printer output.
  For example, my printer is capable of a maximum resolution of
  2880 dpi, and that the output ideally would be 360 dpi, or 720
  dpi, or some such.
  I have read a couple of posts now where the printer is being run
  at a somewhat oddball resolution, such as 743 ppi.
  So, is there any logic to what I have been told?
  Or does it not really matter?
  Thanks
  William Robb
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Re: Re: SNOW!

2002-01-03 Thread David Brooks

Sounds like a nice July afternoon in Thunder Bay.
giggle

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: C or B Waters [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 07:14:07 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: SNOW!


- Original Message -
 From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: SNOW!


 Two inches!  Geez, you could be in Buffalo!



Well we actually got 5-6 inches!  In a place with one snow-plow per 
county
(if you are lucky)  This is a mess! The city is virtually shut 
down.  I'm
trying to find my boots and heading out or some morning shots!

Cory Waters
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: SFXn Remote Control

2002-01-03 Thread Marcello Anselmi Tamburini

Hi,

 The same functionality as the shutter release button: 
 halfway down - metering + AF, 
 full down - exp.

Ok. I tought something else because of the price: 50 U$ or more!!

-- 
Marcello Anselmi Tamburini

Sent through GMX FreeMail - http://www.gmx.net
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

Hi Rob,
This is a dye sub printer. It's a totally different process and, as far as I
know, it is not related to ink-jet printing.
Paul

Rob Studdert wrote:

 On 3 Jan 2002 at 6:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:

  Hi Bill,
  The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
  rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
  type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
  in the neighborhood of 550ppi.

 Did you check the link that Gerald provided?

 http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRINT/P400/P400A.HTM

 Granted it's not specifically related to the Epson drivers but I would guess
 that it still has relevance.

 Cheers,
 Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Stenquist

Hi Gerald,
This page discusses dye sub technology. Bill's question is in regard to
ink-jet printing. Totally different animal.
Paul

Gerald Cermak wrote:

 Images that don't match the printers resolution need to be resampled by
 the driver to match the printer's chosen resolution.  Sending a 2700 dpi
 image into a 2880 dpi printer isn't going to produce much in the way of
 visible resampling artifacts (they are small and blend well).  A more
 significant chance of visible artifacts happens at much lower
 resolutions.

 Check out what happens when you print a 267 dpi image into a 314 dpi
 printer (search for jaggies near the bottom of the page):
 http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRINT/P400/P400A.HTM

 -Gerald

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
 Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 8:11 PM
 To: Pentax Discuss
 Subject: Digital printing questions

 I am in a bit of a quandry, and am hoping I can get a few answers from
 the list. I have been told that it is best to size the file to a divisor
 of the printer output. For example, my printer is capable of a maximum
 resolution of 2880 dpi, and that the output ideally would be 360 dpi, or
 720 dpi, or some such. I have read a couple of posts now where the
 printer is being run at a somewhat oddball resolution, such as 743 ppi.
 So, is there any logic to what I have been told? Or does it not really
 matter? Thanks William Robb
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Re: Live near I-10?

2002-01-03 Thread Ken Archer

I guess San Antonio is too close to home to fit into the area of 
exotic places to visit. ;-)

On Thursday 03 January 2002 01:08, Tiger Moses wrote:
 This month I will be making the drive from Houston, TX to Fort
 Huachuca, Arizona.

 I think 98% of the drive is on I-10.

 If you happen to live on I-10 in New Mexico, let me know if I might
 be able to meet you,
 and we can take our picture together or something?

 If you know my route in Az, let me know too, I''ll come shake your
 hand too?

 Anyone have a futon I can sleep on?
-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail
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What I did over Christmas...

2002-01-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

Hey all.  Did I miss anything good over the last week and a half?  Who 
won the PDML printer challenge?

I only took one camera and one lens (along with a helicoid extension 
tube) on my trip: my Pentax 67 and the 105mm f2.4.  I shot twenty rolls 
of film in North Carolina in the moments between family visits (or 
sometimes during them ;) ), and another 15 or so in New York.

The first thing I said when we showed up in NY to our hosts was Please 
do not let me go anywhere near BH.  We all agreed that we would not go 
out of our way to look for it and that if anyone saw it but I didn't 
notice it, they wouldn't tell me.  We were trying to have an inexpensive 
holiday, after all.

Well, Vanessa and I went up the Empire State Building, and while I was 
busy burning up film of the New York skyline, Vanessa started giggling.  
I asked he what was so funny, but she only answered that she was not 
allowed to tell me.  Then she giggled some more, and then finally 
flipped over our Empire State Building elevator tickets to reveal an ad 
that read BH Photo/Video -- 3 blocks from the Empire State Building!  
Show this coupon to receive a free gift!

The free gift was a small backpack.  I now own the new SMCP-67 75mm f2.8.

Bloody fate.

-Aaron
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Odp: Which lense to take?

2002-01-03 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Which lense to take?


 Mid way through january i'm going on a road trip for two weeks or so.

I don't know where you are going but...

 The primes i have to choose from are:
 24/2, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 Macro
 Zooms to choose from are:
 FA28-70/4 and F70-210

 At the moment i'm leaning towards taking the 24/2, 50/1.4 and both zooms.
 Even when i take all this i'll probaly only use half of it.

... I'd definitely take the 24/2, 50/1,4 and 70-210. IMHO, to take the 24/2
and 50/1,4 together with the 28-70 is to unnecessarily double the same focal
range...
Alternatively you could simply take both zooms:)
Greetz
Artur
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Re: Digital Printing: Bigger is Better

2002-01-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, January 2, 2002, at 11:21  PM, Jody L. Reese wrote:

 I have been following your thread and was wondering which Epson printer 
 your
 using?  I have been thinking about the Epson Stylus Photo 2000P, but at 
 its
 price tag I am a little hesitant.  I have heard of too many people who 
 have
 had their Epson printhead go down and then sending the unit in for 
 repair
 about 12 to 20 months after purchase.  What has your experiences been 
 with
 your printer?

I'm not Paul, but I have an Epson Stylus Pro 7500, the 24 inch wide 
version of the 2000P, and it has been running virtually non-stop since 
October of 2000 with no head problems.

-Aaron
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RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

I know that these type of lenses, especially the 500/4.5, were very easy to
convert to another mount. That's why if you stumble on a 500/4.5 in Nikon
mount you can bet that it was probably an Associated Press lens from the
time when they switched to Nikon. Although they probably did some for others
at the time (some NYC company did the switch).
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 1:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


Kent,

That has to be it. It must be that all of the longer lenses have that
design?

In my original post I was referencing the auction page but the bottom photo
never loaded. So, I looked at it after Shel's post and noticed the bottom
pic (this time the page loaded instanteously). Sure enough, PENTAX SMC.
That's no screw mount lens. Plus it's identical to the lens on Boz's site...

Brendan
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75mm f2.8 for Pentax 67, first impressions

2002-01-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

I'm hoping to process some of the rolls I shot with this lens today or 
tomorrow, so I'll save my observations on performance until I've seen 
what it can do.

The first thing I thought when I saw the Pentax SMC-67 75mm f2.8 was 
that the barrel was made out of plastic.  It isn't -- it is quite 
certainly metal -- but it is painted a much more matte black than my 67 
(from '98, not a 67II) and the 105 that I have (which are decidedly 
glossy).  I imagine that this finish matches the 67II.  It doesn't look 
out of place mounted on my 67, but I did immediately notice it as 
different.

The lens is nearly identical in size and weight to my 105mm f2.4.  
According to the specs in the manual, it is 6mm shorter and 30g 
lighter.  It has A-series style markings (the curvier font, with the 
lettering on the diagonal front of the focussing ring rather than inset 
around the lens).  The filter size is 67mm, which made me really happy 
since I have a number of 67mm filters already for the 105.  The lens 
itself extends to the very edge of the barrel.  I shot with a couple of 
different filters, so we'll see if they vignette at all.

The lens handles beautifully.  It feels every bit as good as the 105.

The included hood is plastic, but finished in exactly the same matte 
black paint as the lens.  It has a useful little pop-off door so one can 
access a polarizer with the hood on.

The minimum focus distance (a smidge over two feet) is really quite 
freeing after having lived with the 105 for so long.

7 elements, five groups.  9 aperture blades.

So far I am very pleased with everything about this lens.  Please, ask 
questions if you want to know anything about it.

-Aaron
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The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Shel Belinkoff

A few weeks ago I bought a very nice MX from Daphne and have used it a
few times.  Man, do I like that camera.  It's especially nice when
wearing a wide angle lens, like the K28/3.5, or the K35/3.5.  It's a
small enough combination to fit easily into the Domke F-803 satchel, or
into a large pocket in a jacket or vest.  And not needing batteries is a
real plus. If you haven't been MX enabled, it's something you might
think about.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Pentacon 400/4?

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

Although the Enna is suppose to be decent I'd more than likely take the
Pentax if it is the manual focus K, M, or A model.
I'm always on the lookout for big fast screwmount lenses to add to my
collection. One day I'd like to pick up one of the Kilar 600/5.6 lenses. All
the ones I've seen lately were modified for C-mount motion picture work.
I'll think about those lenses you mention in Pentax mount.
I live in Frederick, MD by the way.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Pentacon 400/4?


Kent,

You're right. The lens in question, on German EBay, is a 300/4:

http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315106059

Since I'm also thinking of getting a moderately fast 300, I appreciate the
tip to pass on the Pentacon.

By the way, there's a coated PK-mount Enna 400/4.5 (yes, K mount), mint, for
sale on the Web for something like $450. Since it seems you want one badly.
I didn't want anyone to beat you to it, so write to me for the URL. Igor of
Igorcameras.com has several Enna 400/4.5s, in Exacta and Topcon mounts, for
$395
(http://www.igorcamera.com/Exacta%20%20Topcon.htm). I also know of a
Piesker 400/4.5 or two for sale; one in M42, the other I think in K mount.
Write to me for those URLs, too. Any that you're not interested in, I'll
share them with the list
PS: If you had to choose between the Enna 400/4.5K at $450 and the Pentax
400/5.6 PKA at $500, which would you choose?

Paul Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Kent Giddings wrote:
Are you sure it is 400/4 and not 400/4.5? Most Pentacon lenses were made by
only a couple of makers and I can't find any listing for a 400/4. There were
2 400/4.5 lenses that I know of. One by Piesker and one by Enna. I got
outbid on one of the former a short time ago and the Enna is very rare.
Pentacon only had 2 telephotos with their own name inscribed on them, and
both were built by Meyer Gorlitz (because part of Pentacon later) and were
the same as the M-G Orestegor lenses. One was a 300/4 and the other a
500/5.6. Neither is as good as the Aus Jena 300/4 Sonnar and the 500/5.6 is
not considered as good as the current Ukrainian 500/5.6 MC APO-Arsat.
Most of these were available in 35mm mounts also.
Kent Gittings





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RE: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

You should consider the formula based not on photos taken but by the number
of good photos taken. If a cheaper lens gives you less useable shots that
needs to taken into account.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Studdert
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?


On 2 Jan 2002 at 8:11, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

 By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at
 50 percent of the price is a better value. I propose an alternative
 definition of value: cost per photograph taken. By this definition, the
 cheapest lens nearly always must win.

Paul,

Your equation doesn't work for me. Some of us are just prepared to sacrifice
a
bit more and buy the best available in order to provide the optimum
potential
(in the given format). I never want to be wishing I'd shot that shot with
a
better lens.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: SFXn Remote Control

2002-01-03 Thread Sas Gabor

Hi,

On 3 Jan 2002 at 14:25, Marcello Anselmi Tamburini wrote:
 Ok. I tought something else because of the price: 50 U$ or more!!

It's pretty simple to make your own cable release for all AF pentaxes except 
th new MZ-S, which has digital communications.

Read this, for example:
http://w3.one.net/~georgek/pentax/acc/g0008.html


Gabor
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RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

If I'm not mistaken I think the rear filter mount resided under this part
and that is why it comes off. It's not really designed as an interchangeable
mount as Pentax only offered an upgrade to the K-mount for the earlier
screwmount lens owners. You couldn't buy the screwmount adapter separately.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Joseph Tainter
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


This seems to match some other posts. I keep telling myself I don't
need it and don't have the money right now. But I've wanted one of
these since I was a kid.

Joe

 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:03:02 -0500
From: Donna McArthur [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Joe,
I'll see if I can make this a little more clear. If you look at the
second picture, which shows the back end of the tube, work your way up
from the protective cap until you come to a knurled ring.  It has two
screws on either side of it.  This is where the mounting adapter
separates from the tube.  The adapter has a four-eared bayonette type
mount that fits into the knurled ring.  This ring is then turned like a
breech mount to secure the adapter tightly to the tube (the adapter
mounts very similar to a Canon FD mount lens).  Pentax designed this
lens
in this manner and provided adapters for either screw mount or k mount.
Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Donna



On Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:38:01 -0700 Joseph Tainter
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Thank you, Donna. This is a little confusing. I thought this should
 be a
 k-mount lens. Would it be a lot of trouble to take and send me a
 photo
 of the camera end, close up?

 Joe

 Donna McArthur wrote:
 
  Hi Joe,
  No, this lens is not a screw mount by design.  The end tube has
 threads,
  which accept adapters which can be either screw mount or k mount,
 or
  others.  The end of the threaded tube, is approx. 2 1/2 in
 diameter.  We
  just happen to have the k mount adapter for this unit.  It is
 truly an
  impressive   piece of equipment.
  Thanks for your interest,
  Donna
 
  On Tue, 01 Jan 2002 15:01:23 PST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
   Hi. Can I clarify that this is a screw-mount lens with a
 k-mount
   adapter?
  
   Thanks,
  
   Joe
   
  
  
   Question from:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Title of item:   PENTAX SMC 1000mm F8 TELEPHOTO LENS
   AWESOME!!
   Seller:  stardust06242
   Starts:  Dec-31-01 14:41:11 PST
   Ends:Jan-07-02 14:41:11 PST
   Price:   Currently $455.00
   To view the item, go to:
  
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316793311
  
  
  
   Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading
 Community
   at http://www.ebay.com
  
  
  YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR INTERNET ACCESS!
  Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
  Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
  http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.


YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR INTERNET ACCESS!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Christian Skofteland

I love mine too!  I think the best thing about the MX is the sound of the
mechanical shutter at slow speeeds.

Christian skofteland

- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 A few weeks ago I bought a very nice MX from Daphne and have used it a
 few times.  Man, do I like that camera.  It's especially nice when
 wearing a wide angle lens, like the K28/3.5, or the K35/3.5.  It's a
 small enough combination to fit easily into the Domke F-803 satchel, or
 into a large pocket in a jacket or vest.  And not needing batteries is a
 real plus. If you haven't been MX enabled, it's something you might
 think about.
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Moving to Pittsburgh

2002-01-03 Thread Mark Roberts

Hello PDML folks!

My S.O. has just accepted a job in Pittsburgh and, not wanting to have to
live on the streets here in Rochester grin, I'll be moving there with
her. Her new job starts on July 1 so we have time to sell our present house,
look for a house in Pittsburgh, etc., etc.

Wondering if anyone one the list can fill me in on the scene there. Anything
photographic or non-photographic would be appreciated.


-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: Need Advice (was:Re: PZ-1p review)

2002-01-03 Thread Lon Williamson

I understand your logic completely.
- Lon

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I recently purchased a ZX-7 from a local hometown camera shop.  I paid about
 $100 extra by buying local instead of mail-order.  But my reasoning was this:
 I wasn't sure which camera I wanted to buy, I was torn between the ZX-5 and
 the 7, and I really didn't know enough to make the decision without guidance.
  The owner/salesman spent several hours with me on several different
 occasions, explaining lens options, camera operations and general
 photography.  My estimate was a minimum of 5 hours of his time, spent
 exclusively with me.  So I felt I was paying about $20 an hour for his time
 by buying from him.  This gentleman is a fine photographer himself and has
 much experience he is willing to share.  Since I bought the camera I been
 back in the store a few times.  He always has time to talk to me, offer
 advice on my photos, and answer my questions.
 
 IMO, my $100 was well spent.  I'd like to see this store open for a long time.
 
 Julie
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Re: FS: Soligor CD 100/2 PK in England, £75.74

2002-01-03 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I've purchased several items from the UK, from several sources, and at
no time did I have to pay the VAT.  However, it just occurred to me that
maybe the tax requirements are different for used items.  There's a
vague recollection of that in a dusty corner of my memory.  So, you may
be right.  I've only purchased new items.

Paul Pondered:

 Are you sure about this? 
 Shel wrote:
 No VAT if the lens is being shipped outside of the UK.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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pentax mx focussing screens

2002-01-03 Thread Henry Knowles

Hi,

another plea for help as the first one was dealt with so swiftly 
(thanks Bill).  what i would like to find is an SC-1 screen.  is there 
any hope in hell of finding one?  so far everyone in any of the shops 
i've been into has just laughed!

Henry
--
Henry Knowles, Electrical  Electronic Engineering
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Knobs Gloves (was Re: Jumping ship)

2002-01-03 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Lon Williamson pointed out:
 There are other things to love about the KX:
[...]
 * Lock button locks shutter and aperature if you set lens on Bulb

It does *WHAT!?*

{runs downstairs to grab the KX and fire a frame on 'B'}
{runs back upstairs, cackling with glee}

[expletive]!  That's going to be Really Useful now that I 
know about it!

(Yes, I do have a locking cable release.  I don't always have it
with me.)

 * Batteries last practically forever and are cheap/readily available

Which reminds me, I need to replace the batteries in my Super Program
again...

[...]
 * Horizontal shutter less vibration prone than many vertical run
 shutters

Didn't realize that!

 * ASA knob goes from 8 to 6400.  Quite a bit of control there for an
 oldie.

Yeah, and it's easy to just shoot off by a stop with the needle
when I'm shooting at 12500, which I do often enough that it matters.

-- Glenn
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Forwarded from the Olympus list

2002-01-03 Thread Bill Owens

 Just saw this on dpreview.com   Interesting. from Dec. 26th

 Minolta yesterday announced that it will halt production and development
of
 APS cameras in favour of attacking the ever expanding digital camera
market.
 This comes as no surprise to dpreview as we have observed the dramatic
shift
 in market share (and production) between 35 mm, APS and digital over the
 last two years. Investors welcomed the news, sending shares in Minolta up
 8.39 percent to 155 yen on Wednesday morning. The Nikkei average dipped
0.1
 percent.


Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: FS: Soligor CD 100/2 PK in England, ?75. 74

2002-01-03 Thread Mick Maguire

VAT should only be paid on items (new or used), which are being
shipped/billed to UK addresses. If you are buying from the states they
should not be charging you VAT. I would bet that their web site code is just
plain wrong.

Regards,
/\/\ick... (a Brit living in the USA)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:35 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FS: Soligor CD 100/2 PK in England, ?75.74


I've purchased several items from the UK, from several sources, and at
no time did I have to pay the VAT.  However, it just occurred to me that
maybe the tax requirements are different for used items.  There's a
vague recollection of that in a dusty corner of my memory.  So, you may
be right.  I've only purchased new items.

Paul Pondered:

 Are you sure about this?
 Shel wrote:
 No VAT if the lens is being shipped outside of the UK.

--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Vlad L. Loukiantchenko

I also love my new MX!!! I've got mine a few weeks ago as Christmas gift,
run a few rolls of film through it and already fall in love ;o) My first
impressions:
-Build quality and feeling... Despite I have Super-A with not so bad
feeling of sturdy metal body (comparing to modern auto-focus wonderbricks).
MX feels far sturdier...
-Shutter/mirror noise is far quieter then Super-A's. With my Super A I
distinctly can hear two waves of noise: first one - when mirror goes up (it
seems that mirror stops by bumping into the foam pad) and when shutter
process selected speed; second one - when mirror goes down and stops in its
lower position. With MX - first wave is almost inaudible (MX's mirror is
stopped by internal mechanics, without bumping), rubberized silk shutter is
noiseless too... Basically you hear the mirror when it stops in its lower
position, that's all!.. The practical issue of this - less vibration:
handshooting is possible with lower shutter speeds (especially with
problematic ones like 1/30, 1/15, 1/8?)!..
-And last (till now, I hope ;o) - viewfinder: it looks bigger and
slightly brighter then Super-A's one. Moreover it covers slightly more
percentage of frame, with this last point I've got a little surprise: I
almost never had a problem with the issue that lab cuts part of the frame
during printing. On the very first roll from MX I've immediately got a few
pictures with very tight framing or cut off subject's parts!.. Now I'm
learning how to avoid this ;-)

Ok, Shel, good luck with your MX,

Vlad.

- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 15:53
Subject: The Wonderful MX


 A few weeks ago I bought a very nice MX from Daphne and have used it a
 few times.  Man, do I like that camera.  It's especially nice when
 wearing a wide angle lens, like the K28/3.5, or the K35/3.5.  It's a
 small enough combination to fit easily into the Domke F-803 satchel, or
 into a large pocket in a jacket or vest.  And not needing batteries is a
 real plus. If you haven't been MX enabled, it's something you might
 think about.
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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VAT on imports (was: Re:FS: Soliglor CD 100/2 PK in England)

2002-01-03 Thread Kristian Walsh

VAT can only be deducted if an item is:

  1. New
  2. Being shipped to a customer outside of the EU.

If you live in one EU member country and buy from another, your 
VAT/MOMS/MWSt (or whatever it's called locally) is paid at source -- 
that is, the country in which the item was sold.

If you live outside the EU and buy from an EU member, then you can ask 
for the tax to be deducted. You are still liable to any import duties 
applied by your own government though.

This of couse applies only to non VAT-registered private citizens. The 
rules for businesses are far more complex...

Happy imports,
--
Kristian


On Thursday, January 3, 2002, at 04:35  pm, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 I've purchased several items from the UK, from several sources, and at
 no time did I have to pay the VAT.  However, it just occurred to me that
 maybe the tax requirements are different for used items.  There's a
 vague recollection of that in a dusty corner of my memory.  So, you may
 be right.  I've only purchased new items.

 Paul Pondered:

 Are you sure about this?
 Shel wrote:
 No VAT if the lens is being shipped outside of the UK.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Nick Wright

The PZ1p has a custom function that allows you to
choose wether the camera leaves the leader out or
rewinds it all the way... It is one of my fav
functions. :)

Nick


--- Jaume Lahuerta [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Neither MZ-5 nor MZ-5n can do that. I don't know
 about
 the Z1p.
 However, yesterday I bought one of those kind of
 'pincers' that are used to pull out the film from
 inside the roll case. It costs around 12EUR here. It
 is really easy to use and it seems to work fine (I
 have only tested a couple of times).
 
 
 --- Trish Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I am looking to upgrade to a better AF outfit. Can
  anyone on the list tell
  me which of the MZ5, MZ5n and Z1P leave the leader
  out after film rewind.
  90% of what I do is BW, so a camera that gobbles
 up
  the leader is a PITA.
  (read MZ50).
 Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
 http://greetings.yahoo.com
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=
Nick Wright
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
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Re: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

Darryn,

Both of your issues would be solved by the PZ-1p.  Neither would be
solved by the MZ series.  The PZ-1p has a Pentax Function to leave the
leader out on rewind.

I have found in my bulk loading experience several things:
1) MZ series winding motors are a bit weak
2) Plastic cannisters tend to bind alot more than metal - even with a better motor
3) long rolls ( 24) tend to put more load on the wind/rewind motor


So If I were you, I would go for the PZ-1p and use metal cannisters.
The motor in it is much stronger and will work fine for bulk rolled
film.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 1:58:21 AM, you wrote:

TJ I am looking to upgrade to a better AF outfit. Can anyone on the list tell
TJ me which of the MZ5, MZ5n and Z1P leave the leader out after film rewind.
TJ 90% of what I do is BW, so a camera that gobbles up the leader is a PITA.
TJ (read MZ50).

TJ Secondly, I have recently had an experience with my MZ50 and a bulk film
TJ roll that bothers me about upgrading to the MZ series cameras. I loaded my
TJ MZ50 with Ilford film from a bulk film roll (plastic screw in cannister).
TJ After the film had finished (approx 36 frames) the camera rewound for a
TJ little bit, but then stopped. I replaced the batteries and pressed used the
TJ little nipple (blush) to rewind. Nothing. So I took the camera into the dark
TJ room, opened the back, closed it again, and turned the camera on. Whirr to
TJ first frame as you normally would with a new film. I used the nipple again
TJ to rewind, however it went for a second or two and then stopped agian. I
TJ eventually had to literally pull the film out of the camera.

TJ Has this happened to anyone else. Is the rewind motor gutless?? It's
TJ obviously got something to do with the bulk film cannister. I have not tried
TJ it again for fear of losing a roll of film.

TJ BTW, I'll be selling an MX, MX Winder and K35/2 to raise funds. I'll wait
TJ till Friday to post the FS sign.

TJ Darryn Richter
TJ Adelaide, Australia
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Re: Essential items for Pentax owners to have.

2002-01-03 Thread Lon Williamson

Mr. Robb, I've enjoyed most of your posts.  This back to the
basics post is a good one.  -Lon

William Robb wrote:
 
 I think that people see equipment as the Holy Grail of
 photography. I tend to be this way myself. The thought process
 seems to be that if one has this lens, or that camera, then
 great pictures will just happen.
 While a certain amount of equipment is a requirement, I really
 think we tend to go overboard. With the equipment list you
 mentioned, I would add a 50mm lens and something wider, probably
 a 28, because they are common, inexpensive, and fairly useful. I
 would also consider dumping the zoom, and trying to find a fixed
 lens in the 135mm range, an M series 150mm f/3.5 is a terrific
 lens if you can find one. Also, get a solid tripod and cable
 release if you haven't already.
 
 Going to a basic non-zoom lens based kit is a great way to learn
  how to see pictures. Zoom lenses don't demand the same
 discipline as prime lenses, and as a consequence, tend to make
 for a lazy approach to composition.
 
 A zoom in the hands of an experienced photographer can be a
 powerful tool, but in the hands of someone inexperienced, it can
 be a photographic disaster.
 
 More important than equipment is film and processing. The best
 way to learn the art of photography is to take pictures. Lots of
 pictures. This is the practical part of the process.
 The theoretical part is to look at pictures. Look at pictures
 done by other photographers. See what they are doing that works.
 Look at the composition of pictures that you think are good, and
 analyze why they are good. Apply what you learn here to your own
 work.
 Look critically at all your pictures. Too often, we dismiss the
 failures without looking to see why they are failures.
 This is one of the problems with digital cameras. I have read
 several posts where people shooting digital say that it is so
 wonderful and liberating to be able to nuke the pictures that
 don't work on the spot. Like as if you can actually see a
 picture on a 1 inch LCD. Like as if a bad picture has no value.
 The ones that don't work out will teach you far more than the
 ones that do work.
 We need to know what doesn't work, as well as what does.
 It is very easy to hit on a formulae that works: Find this type
 of subject, wait for this type of light, use this compositional
 strategy, and push the button. Eventually, you end up with an
 entire portfolio of boring shit.
 Conversely, if you save and analyze carefully, the pictures that
 don't work, you will learn why some things work, and others
 don't.
 Maybe that one that doesn't cut it would have been better if you
 had waited an hour for the sun to come around. Will you know
 that if you delete the image off your ram card thing or just
 toss the print because it doesn't catch your eye right out of
 the envelope?
 
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RE: Forwarded from the Olympus list

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

Yeah we discussed this on the Minolta list when it came out. Everybody hoped
this means they are moving to devote more resources to the digital 35mm
effort but who knows.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bill Owens
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:55 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Forwarded from the Olympus list


 Just saw this on dpreview.com   Interesting. from Dec. 26th

 Minolta yesterday announced that it will halt production and development
of
 APS cameras in favour of attacking the ever expanding digital camera
market.
 This comes as no surprise to dpreview as we have observed the dramatic
shift
 in market share (and production) between 35 mm, APS and digital over the
 last two years. Investors welcomed the news, sending shares in Minolta up
 8.39 percent to 155 yen on Wednesday morning. The Nikkei average dipped
0.1
 percent.


Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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**
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This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by
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lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

2002-01-03 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

OK, you guys have talked sense into me. I just bought a 400. It's not a Quantaray, 
ancient screwmount, or used off-brand. It's a genu-ine Pentax SMC 400/5.6 PKA, 
(condition EX-), with original case and hood, for (drumroll, please) $394 plus $9.50 
shipping from Adorama. Since a 77mm B+W multicoated UV filter has been sitting unused 
in my drawer, the deal was even more irresistable.

The PKA improved over the SMC amd M by using a more advanced lens formula (7 elements, 
six groups), including a FREE element for close focus to 2.2 m.

Another 400/5.6 PKA can be found on KEH for about $546 (EX+), as well as a Bargain 
400/5.6M for $339.

I hope you're happy.

Only problem is that the lens is being shipped UPS. When it arrives, I'll have some 
explaining to do when I get home (after my wife). Truth is, I'm preparing to sell off 
several desirable lenses, so this is something of a preemptive move to cash in. When a 
fellow finds a lens this good, this scarce, this cheap--well, a man's gotta do what a 
man's gotta do.

Now if anyone knows of a used 300/4.5F (not FA) for sale...

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re[2]: A New Member

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

Lon,

I think that the DOF will in fact work with any lens.  Rather than
electronic - more likely electromagnetic.  It still has to physically
stop down the aperture.  So IIRC, it will work whether you stop the
lens down or it does.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 7:19:41 AM, you wrote:

LW Welcome aboard, Dave.

LW You'll find the ZX-M is not mentioned much around here,
LW but what the hey?  My wife owns one, and I think it's a sweet
LW camera.  The DOF Preview on your camera is electronic, I think,
LW and therefore will not work with a pre-A lens.  It moves the
LW aperature from wide open to taking so you can evaluate background,
LW subject sharpness, etc.  It _will_ dim the viewfinder if your taking
LW aperature is significantly smaller than your wide-open lens.

LW -Lon

LW David Regan wrote:
 
 Hi Folks!
 
 I am a new member to the Pentax Discussion group. I was on Santa's Nice list
 this year, and _she_ got me a new ZXM. I know it might sound strange, but
 this was a significant upgrade over my other analog cameras (A Canonette
 QL17, AE1, and a Leica c11) and my digitals. . I look forward to sharing my
 phtographs with the group and getting help with the intricasies of this
 camera (can anyone enlighten me as to how the Depth of Field preview
 works?).
 Happy Holidays everyone!
 Dave
LW -
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Re: Pentax New Year's Predictions?

2002-01-03 Thread Lon Williamson

Robert Soames Wetmore wrote:
 Some speculation enabling for you all...
 Does anyone have any Pentax New Year's Predictions?  Folks with insider info
 such as Paal are encouraged to weigh in!  Of course, I also solicit wild
 speculation.

The next Flagship Pentax Camera will be called the ZLKMX2-2000.  It will
feature
M-42 and K- mounts (but will require fancy footwork on your part to
switch
between the two using Pentax Function #28973920).  Accompanying it will
be a
series of gold-plated SuperLimited primes, focal length from 8 to 8000
mm, all
sharper than any lens short of the Eye Of God, and costing less than $43
each.

I gotta lay off the coffee or mebbe the American Beer

-Lon
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FS: Screw mount Lens Accesories Booklet (Ebay)

2002-01-03 Thread Rob

Hi All,



Spotted this on Ebay in the UK, I have never seen screw mount brochures


May be of interest to screw mount fans




http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1317004788





Regards



Robert Gillespie
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RE: VAT on imports (was: Re:FS: Soliglor CD 100/2 PK in England)

2002-01-03 Thread Mick Maguire

checking the HM customs and Excise Pages (http://www.hmce.gov.uk) I see
nothing about the item having to be New, but it does confirm the zero
rating of goods to non EC countries

Regards,
/\/\ick...



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kristian Walsh
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: VAT on imports (was: Re:FS: Soliglor CD 100/2 PK in England)


VAT can only be deducted if an item is:

  1. New
  2. Being shipped to a customer outside of the EU.

If you live in one EU member country and buy from another, your
VAT/MOMS/MWSt (or whatever it's called locally) is paid at source --
that is, the country in which the item was sold.

If you live outside the EU and buy from an EU member, then you can ask
for the tax to be deducted. You are still liable to any import duties
applied by your own government though.

This of couse applies only to non VAT-registered private citizens. The
rules for businesses are far more complex...

Happy imports,
--
Kristian


On Thursday, January 3, 2002, at 04:35  pm, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 I've purchased several items from the UK, from several sources, and at
 no time did I have to pay the VAT.  However, it just occurred to me that
 maybe the tax requirements are different for used items.  There's a
 vague recollection of that in a dusty corner of my memory.  So, you may
 be right.  I've only purchased new items.

 Paul Pondered:

 Are you sure about this?
 Shel wrote:
 No VAT if the lens is being shipped outside of the UK.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
 -
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Re: Pentax New Year's Predictions?

2002-01-03 Thread Lon Williamson

Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
 I predict a blizzard of speculation on new Pentaz products for 2002, many quite
 sophisticated.  I also predict that Pentax will introduce 2 or 3 modest
 innovations, which will be throroughly criticized by the list for failure to
 include all the wonderful things we had wished for.

And yet another prediction:

Pentax will go back to M-42 exclusively, admitting that the K mount was
a long
running joke.  This will please Shel, but piss me off.  grin.

And advertising will go hardball, gloves off:  PeeWee Herman will be
seen world-
wide saying, in some bizzare accent, I Leica Da Newa Pentaxa
M-FourtyTwoAh Lensah.

-Lon
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RE: Fuji Frontier Location

2002-01-03 Thread Gerald Cermak

Of 2 Ritz's here in Seattle, one has converted to Frontier, the other
hasn't.

As an aside: I took a 2400 dpi scan of a 4x5 neg from my wedding to the
Frontier based lab for printing.  I had it nicely resampled to 6x8 @
720dpi (their max dpi rating and print size).  They told me a 4x6
digital print was $0.89, and the 6x8 was only slightly more.  20 prints
later they totaled up a bill of $80+!  How!  $3.99 per digital print at
6x8.  A 6x8 from a 35mm neg would only have cost $2.99 each.

Ritz is evil, pure evil.

Gerald


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of dick graham
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 2:02 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fuji Frontier Location


Ritz Camera stores, at least in our area of the upper midwest, use Fuji
Frontier machines, or at least that's what they have told me.

DG



At 05:05 PM 1/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
I am looking for a Fuji Frontier machine located locally to me.  Can
anyone offer a listing of locations?  I searched Fuji's website and
came
up with nothing.

I am located in Bergen County, New Jersey, USA!

Thanks...
Ed K.
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Re: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Lawrence Kwan

On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote:
 Both of your issues would be solved by the PZ-1p.  Neither would be
 solved by the MZ series.  The PZ-1p has a Pentax Function to leave the
 leader out on rewind.

Or you can wait for the MZ-L or MZ-6, which has the same Pentax Function
to leave the leader out.


-- 
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.vex.net/~lawrence/ -Key ID:0x6D23F3C4--
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Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

Lawrence,

THe MZ-L or MZ-6 doesn't solve the wind/rewind motor problem.  If you
have used both MZ series bodies and the PZ-1p, there is a world of
difference in the strength of the motors.


Bruce



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 10:33:03 AM, you wrote:

LK On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote:
 Both of your issues would be solved by the PZ-1p.  Neither would be
 solved by the MZ series.  The PZ-1p has a Pentax Function to leave the
 leader out on rewind.

LK Or you can wait for the MZ-L or MZ-6, which has the same Pentax Function
LK to leave the leader out.
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Re: will BW film developer work for paper?

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

t Actually, I think this works. I've heard of folks who had excellent results
t using rodinal.

t On occasion I've been at the end of a batch of dektol and replenished with
t xtol and it seemed to work fine.

t tv (sorry if this is too late)

IIRC, I saw in some article on Rodinal (my favorite developer, BTW)
that it is usable for papers, at 1+20. Problem is, most modern papers
use developing agents in the emulsion itself, to speed the process, so
the papers had to be washed for at least a minute before developing in
rodinal. But it might give interesting results with older papers (I
still have a big stock of some, an old Document type paper - superhigh
contrast, more like lith - 20 years old is now great for super-low
contrast portraits, really!)

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Hi,
   I ask the help of fellow screwy lovers (ehm), am in need of some
   screwy body... VBEG

   I am interested in finding an M42 body for some of my screwmount CZJ
   lenses**1), which I love to use but don't because I dislike fiddling with
   adapters from K to 42.

   What I *need* is bright, high-magnification viewfinder with *bright*
   focusing screen! At *least* as bright as my Pentax K2DMD, preferably
   BETTER!**2)

   What is the best M42 camera based on that criterion? I will ask about
   other criteria later on.

   (considering either Spotmatic, Asahi SV, another pre-spotmatic
   body, or a 3rd party M42 body like from Cosina or Vivitar)

   Basic needs for the body: purely mechanical, no batteries (except meter
   if applicable), meter _not needed_, standard M42 autoaperture plate, DOF
   preview, rapid-return mirror, 1/1000 speed or higher is minimum,
   reliability, if ttl meter than it _needs_ to be able to meter
   easily with all M42 lenses **3). MLU would be a nice boon, either
   switchable or via selftimer. Quitness is a plus of course, it
   should be less noisy than a K2DMD _at minimum_. Ability to accept
   motordrive would be a nice boon too.


**1:
(the lenses are 1.8/80 and 2.8/20, Carl Zeiss Jena MC both, just in
   case there is some incompatibility with a body, although I doubt it - after all
   CZ/Pentacon invented the M42 mount in the first place, although
   it gets credited as 'Pentax screwmount' nowadays- Phew!)

**2:
(compared to e.g. N. FM2n, the K2DMD's screen is almost full one stop
   dimmer, as tested with FM2N + 1.8/50 vs. K2 + 1.4/50, the FM2n was
   slightly better, even with almost 1 full stop dimmer lens), but
   still the K2 is way better than M42 Prakticas wrt screen. And the
   FM2n has almost about same magnification as the K2DMD finder, not
   like the AF cameras sporting low-low magnification but bright
   finders, which still are impossible to focus through manually
   
**3: that means the Praktica MTLx series or normal Spotmatic mode -
there is a switch separate from shutter release which 1st: stop down
the lens to selected aperture 2nd: activates the meter. NOT like on
the Zenit, where the switch is built-in into shutter release - that
makes releasing the shutter cumbersome and slow, just plain stupid.

   
Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek

P.S.: Kelvin, I will surely ask this on Club M42, but haven't
subscribed yet (too low on free time :( ). Could you please FW my post
there? Thank you a lot!
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Re: 400 5.6 Takumar

2002-01-03 Thread William Kane

Probably a door stop, I'll take it off your hands for $55.00 U.S. ;-)

Actually, I've found that most of the time, 'stuck' lenses can get unstuck with
a little prying .. . or, the spring that releases when you hit the lens release
button is a bit fiesty, and may need a little lubrication . . .

   . . . good luck with your BIN, sounds like it may turn out nice.

Bill

Bob Rapp wrote:

 I'm not sure that I should celebrate or not. I have won a BIN 400 f5.6
 Takumar for about 45 US. It is said to have a permanently attached 2X
 converter on it. Nothing is permanent. I will let the list if it is a door
 stop or something usable - but for 45.00?

 Regards,

 Bob Rapp {:~)
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Can you believe this?

2002-01-03 Thread William Kane

h,

   Ad states New In Box, Box Never Opened, yet when I look upon the
pictures I see a box, and the item sitting out.  Is THAT what your
talking about?

   Or am I missing some obscure reference to a 70mm bulk film loader?

Bill

Bill Owens wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315937391

 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Carlos Royo

The Z1p leaves the film leader out after rewind if you program it using
a Pentax function. The MZ-S also does.
Regards,

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
--
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Re: Mark moving to Pittsburgh

2002-01-03 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Pittsburgh ... let's see.
That's only 3 hours from Columbus!
We'll have to get together sometime.
The old buildings around downtown might be interesting.
The river ... not too much.  Maybe outside of town.
Get into the mountains for the most fun.
There's also the Pirates.  (I might come over when the Cubs are in.)  And the 
Steelers.  (But I don't really like football.)

Enjoy yourself,

Collin

BTW, what does your SO do?
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RE: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Paris, Leonard

The Z1-p can leave the end out.  It's a custom function setting.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Trish Johnson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:58 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


I am looking to upgrade to a better AF outfit. Can anyone on the list tell
me which of the MZ5, MZ5n and Z1P leave the leader out after film rewind.
90% of what I do is BW, so a camera that gobbles up the leader is a PITA.
(read MZ50).
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RE: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

2002-01-03 Thread Paris, Leonard

Usually Kodak Gold 200.  If I'm planning anything special for the family
pictures, I will shoot Portra 160NC.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Rob Studdert [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 4:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings



What's your favourite pics of the family in PS mode with flash film?

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
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RE: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Matamoros, Cesar A.

 Christian Skofteland [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 
 I love mine too!  I think the best thing about the MX is the sound of the
 mechanical shutter at slow speeeds.
 
 Christian skofteland
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
  A few weeks ago I bought a very nice MX from Daphne and have used it a
  few times.  Man, do I like that camera.  It's especially nice when
  wearing a wide angle lens, like the K28/3.5, or the K35/3.5.  It's a
  small enough combination to fit easily into the Domke F-803 satchel, or
  into a large pocket in a jacket or vest.  And not needing batteries is a
  real plus. If you haven't been MX enabled, it's something you might
  think about.
  --
  Shel Belinkoff
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
 
Awww, come on guys!  I was already looking forward to taking my two LXs out
for a spin this weekend - and leaving the MZ-S at home.  Now you've got me
thinking about the MX I have been neglecting lately.

H, how many cameras can I carry?

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Patrick White

William Robb wrote:
I have been told that it is best to size the file to a divisor
of the printer output.
For example, my printer is capable of a maximum resolution of
2880 dpi, and that the output ideally would be 360 dpi, or 720
dpi, or some such.
I have read a couple of posts now where the printer is being run
at a somewhat oddball resolution, such as 743 ppi.
So, is there any logic to what I have been told?
Or does it not really matter?

An inkjet printer needs to use blocks of multiple printer dots.  As I
understand it, scaling the image to a multiple is suggested because it was
thought that the image scaling algorithms in the photo manipulation software
were better than that used by the printer driver, and so that, by choosing a
multiple, the printer driver wouldn't have to do any scaling at all.
I did some tests with my printer (1440x720, 6 inks, error diffusion (?)
halftoning) and found that _I_ couldn't tell the difference between color
images at 300dpi or higher, except that larger images took longer to print.
For BW on the same printer through, the results were totally different -- I
didn't start to get anything close to reasonable until I was sending upwards
of 720dpi data, and I never really got to where I liked the BW prints even
at that level (i.e. maybe I needed higher?).

So, the best recommendation is probably to use that as a starting place for
your own testing.

hope that helps,
patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Re: choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-03 Thread Bob Poe

Frantisek,
I also went through this process a couple of years
ago. I found that the Spotmatics SP, SPII, and F all
were rather dim in the viewfinder.  It seemed to my
eye that the F was the dimmest of all.  I now use the
SL and the SV which to my eye are the clearest and
brightest views.
Hope this helps...Happy New Year!
Screwy-on-occasion...Bob 
--- Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi,
I ask the help of fellow screwy lovers (ehm), am
 in need of some
screwy body... VBEG
 
I am interested in finding an M42 body for some
 of my screwmount CZJ
lenses**1), which I love to use but don't because
 I dislike fiddling with
adapters from K to 42.
 
What I *need* is bright, high-magnification
 viewfinder with *bright*
focusing screen! At *least* as bright as my
 Pentax K2DMD, preferably
BETTER!**2)
 
What is the best M42 camera based on that
 criterion? I will ask about
other criteria later on.
 
(considering either Spotmatic, Asahi SV, another
 pre-spotmatic
body, or a 3rd party M42 body like from Cosina or
 Vivitar)
 
Basic needs for the body: purely mechanical, no
 batteries (except meter
if applicable), meter _not needed_, standard M42
 autoaperture plate, DOF
preview, rapid-return mirror, 1/1000 speed or
 higher is minimum,
reliability, if ttl meter than it _needs_ to be
 able to meter
easily with all M42 lenses **3). MLU would be a
 nice boon, either
switchable or via selftimer. Quitness is a plus
 of course, it
should be less noisy than a K2DMD _at minimum_.
 Ability to accept
motordrive would be a nice boon too.
 
 
 **1:
 (the lenses are 1.8/80 and 2.8/20, Carl Zeiss Jena
 MC both, just in
case there is some incompatibility with a body,
 although I doubt it - after all
CZ/Pentacon invented the M42 mount in the first
 place, although
it gets credited as 'Pentax screwmount'
 nowadays- Phew!)
 
 **2:
 (compared to e.g. N. FM2n, the K2DMD's screen is
 almost full one stop
dimmer, as tested with FM2N + 1.8/50 vs. K2 +
 1.4/50, the FM2n was
slightly better, even with almost 1 full stop
 dimmer lens), but
still the K2 is way better than M42 Prakticas wrt
 screen. And the
FM2n has almost about same magnification as the
 K2DMD finder, not
like the AF cameras sporting low-low
 magnification but bright
finders, which still are impossible to focus
 through manually

 **3: that means the Praktica MTLx series or normal
 Spotmatic mode -
 there is a switch separate from shutter release
 which 1st: stop down
 the lens to selected aperture 2nd: activates the
 meter. NOT like on
 the Zenit, where the switch is built-in into shutter
 release - that
 makes releasing the shutter cumbersome and slow,
 just plain stupid.
 

 Good light,
  Frantisek Vlcek
 
 P.S.: Kelvin, I will surely ask this on Club M42,
 but haven't
 subscribed yet (too low on free time :( ). Could you
 please FW my post
 there? Thank you a lot!
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 http://pug.komkon.org .
 


=
What boots up must come down.
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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Re: Mark moving to Pittsburgh

2002-01-03 Thread Mark Roberts

Collin wrote:

Pittsburgh ... let's see.
That's only 3 hours from Columbus!
We'll have to get together sometime.
The old buildings around downtown might be interesting.
The river ... not too much.  Maybe outside of town.
Get into the mountains for the most fun.
There's also the Pirates.  (I might come over when the Cubs are in.)  And
the Steelers.  (But I don't really like football.)

Enjoy yourself,

Collin

BTW, what does your SO do?

Hey, we were considering a move to Columbus last year! My S.O. was offered
the job but we couldn't believe the real estate prices in Columbus - Pittsburgh
is actually much more affordable. She had to turn down the Columbus job
because of the cost of housing.

Mark

P.S. She's a doctor (pathologist specializing in pediatric bone  soft tissue
tumors). She'll be be working at Pittsburgh Children's Hospital. I'll be
looking for some kind of work in Pittsburgh too, I expect ;)


-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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RE: Fuji Frontier Location

2002-01-03 Thread dick graham

I haven't done the digital can at Ritz, but I have had slides Frontiered 
into 4x6 prints for $1.00 USD a piece.

DG



At 10:17 AM 1/3/02 -0800, you wrote:
Of 2 Ritz's here in Seattle, one has converted to Frontier, the other
hasn't.

As an aside: I took a 2400 dpi scan of a 4x5 neg from my wedding to the
Frontier based lab for printing.  I had it nicely resampled to 6x8 @
720dpi (their max dpi rating and print size).  They told me a 4x6
digital print was $0.89, and the 6x8 was only slightly more.  20 prints
later they totaled up a bill of $80+!  How!  $3.99 per digital print at
6x8.  A 6x8 from a 35mm neg would only have cost $2.99 each.

Ritz is evil, pure evil.

Gerald


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of dick graham
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 2:02 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fuji Frontier Location


Ritz Camera stores, at least in our area of the upper midwest, use Fuji
Frontier machines, or at least that's what they have told me.

DG



At 05:05 PM 1/2/02 -0500, you wrote:
 I am looking for a Fuji Frontier machine located locally to me.  Can
 anyone offer a listing of locations?  I searched Fuji's website and
came
 up with nothing.
 
 I am located in Bergen County, New Jersey, USA!
 
 Thanks...
 Ed K.
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Re: Re: Mark moving to Pittsburgh

2002-01-03 Thread David Brooks

Pirates and Cubs and Steelers,oh my
(with apologizes to dorothy and toto)

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu,  3 Jan 2002 14:15:18 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Mark moving to Pittsburgh


Pittsburgh ... let's see.
That's only 3 hours from Columbus!
We'll have to get together sometime.
The old buildings around downtown might be interesting.
The river ... not too much.  Maybe outside of town.
Get into the mountains for the most fun.
There's also the Pirates.  (I might come over when the Cubs are 
in.)  And the Steelers.  (But I don't really like football.)

Enjoy yourself,

Collin

BTW, what does your SO do?
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Christian Skofteland

Send me your MX and I'll let you know!

Christian Skofteland

- Original Message -
From: Matamoros, Cesar A. [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 H, how many cameras can I carry?

 César Matamoros II
 Panama City, Florida
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Aaron Reynolds

The reason one uses a divisor of the printer's resolution is to avoid 
moire patterns in finely detailed objects.  Nothing like having a plaid 
shirt with a different pattern running through it...

-Aaron
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Re[2]: VAT on imports (was: Re:FS: Soliglor CD 100/2 PK in England)

2002-01-03 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

the VAT on used items is calculated differently from the VAT on new items,
so a purchaser exporting an item from the EU who buys used goods (price
usually includes VAT) from a VAT-registered business has to figure out how
much VAT to deduct. Whether or not you can claim the VAT back may
depend on how the seller is registered with HMCE. I think this is so they
don't have to declare information to possible competitors which might
allow the competitor to calculate the seller's margin.

The VAT element is calculated on the seller's margin. So if a company buys my
old widget for 100 Euros (see how up-to-date I am?) then adds their 40% markup,
the VAT which he will then add to derive the selling price is calculated only
on the E40-, not the E140-. The VAT rate may also be lower than normal for the
particular class of goods and the particular country.

Reputable dealers who habitually export widgets from the EC should know the rules
and be able to tell buyers of used widgets how much the VAT element is.

The horse's mouth: http://www.hmce.gov.uk/notices/718.htm

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Thursday, January 03, 2002, 6:00:27 PM, you wrote:

 checking the HM customs and Excise Pages (http://www.hmce.gov.uk) I see
 nothing about the item having to be New, but it does confirm the zero
 rating of goods to non EC countries

 Regards,
 /\/\ick...



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kristian Walsh
 Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 12:15 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: VAT on imports (was: Re:FS: Soliglor CD 100/2 PK in England)


 VAT can only be deducted if an item is:

   1. New
   2. Being shipped to a customer outside of the EU.

 If you live in one EU member country and buy from another, your
 VAT/MOMS/MWSt (or whatever it's called locally) is paid at source --
 that is, the country in which the item was sold.

 If you live outside the EU and buy from an EU member, then you can ask
 for the tax to be deducted. You are still liable to any import duties
 applied by your own government though.

 This of couse applies only to non VAT-registered private citizens. The
 rules for businesses are far more complex...

 Happy imports,
 --
 Kristian


 On Thursday, January 3, 2002, at 04:35  pm, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 I've purchased several items from the UK, from several sources, and at
 no time did I have to pay the VAT.  However, it just occurred to me that
 maybe the tax requirements are different for used items.  There's a
 vague recollection of that in a dusty corner of my memory.  So, you may
 be right.  I've only purchased new items.

 Paul Pondered:

 Are you sure about this?
 Shel wrote:
 No VAT if the lens is being shipped outside of the UK.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread dick graham

First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated. I 
used RG 100 consistently for candid portrait work and other work that I 
wanted to blow up. Great skin tone and grain structure for a consumer 
film.  Now it too is going, going, gone.  Has anyone used RG 200 and how 
does it compare to 100 in terms of grain structure and skin tone? I have 
used Portra NC 160 but it is not readily available in my town and it 
doesn't have the color saturation I like for shots other than portrait 
work. The price was also right for RG100.  I could go into Target and get a 
sleeve that held 3 rolls of Gold 100 and 1 roll of RG100 for $5.99 USD.

DG
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RE: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Malcolm Smith

2002 sees the start of my 23rd year of MX ownership. Brilliant camera.

Enjoy it.

Malcolm
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Where/when did you hear about this?

dick graham wrote:
 
 First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

dick,

I used to use Lots and lots of Portra NC 160, but more recently have
been using Fuji Reala 100.  I am very happy with the saturation, skin
tones, lower contrast and lack of grain.  You might give it a go.
Perhaps, like me, you will be pleasantly surprised.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 11:37:51 AM, you wrote:

dg First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated. I 
dg used RG 100 consistently for candid portrait work and other work that I 
dg wanted to blow up. Great skin tone and grain structure for a consumer 
dg film.  Now it too is going, going, gone.  Has anyone used RG 200 and how 
dg does it compare to 100 in terms of grain structure and skin tone? I have 
dg used Portra NC 160 but it is not readily available in my town and it 
dg doesn't have the color saturation I like for shots other than portrait 
dg work. The price was also right for RG100.  I could go into Target and get a 
dg sleeve that held 3 rolls of Gold 100 and 1 roll of RG100 for $5.99 USD.

dg DG
dg -
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Jim Apilado

2002 sees the sstart of my 39th year of owning my first Pentax, a Honeywell
Pentax H-3.
Jim A.

 From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:03:23 -
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: The Wonderful MX
 
 2002 sees the start of my 23rd year of MX ownership. Brilliant camera.
 
 Enjoy it.
 
 Malcolm
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Re: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread David Brooks

I was mainly using Kodak Max 400 for the horse stuff
but i tried some RG 400 this past summer.Definite
difference in quality on the one roll(other was shot
late at night so not so good).
Much nicer tones on the RG 400 and i did some 8x10's
which looked nice,less grain than the Max 400,and the
facial features were more noticable.
Also were did you that too.

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 12:07:38 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

Shel typed
Where/when did you hear about this?

dick graham wrote:
 
 First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be 
terminated.
-- 



Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread C or B Waters

Please Please Please not another endless thread about whether a film is
discontinued or not.

Cory Waters
Knowingly contributing to the thread

- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100


 Where/when did you hear about this?

 dick graham wrote:
 
  First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated.
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread dick graham

Shel, I was in Barnes  Noble last week looking through the latest 
Peterson's Photographic annual article reviewing film.  Under Royal Gold 
100 they stated that it is to be discontinued but is still available at 
present until stocks run out.  My local supermarket, which has always 
carried plenty of fresh RG100, has only a few rolls of it on the shelf and 
those are outdated.

DG



At 12:07 PM 1/3/02 -0800, you wrote:
Where/when did you hear about this?

dick graham wrote:
 
  First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated.
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Paul Jones

Hi Collin,


 The only problem -- the SS display in the finder is detatched.  Who needs
a light meter anyway? :)

That SS display won'teffect the way the meter operates, they stop working
because there is little piece of string (well like string) that operates the
dial in the viewfinder. I shot with a black MX with this problem for a
while, it didn't really bother me.

Regards,
Paul Jones
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RE: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

2002-01-03 Thread Rob Studdert

On 3 Jan 2002 at 13:31, Paris, Leonard wrote:

 Usually Kodak Gold 200.  If I'm planning anything special for the family
 pictures, I will shoot Portra 160NC.

So it looks like in most case Portra wins, It would have been my choice also. I 
shot a lot of it on my last world trip, it seemed to be the most widely 
available pro-film.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-03 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

Now this is really bad news. Is there no film replacing this one from Kodak?
Do I need to switch to Fuji or buy a lot of stock and freeze it? What Fuji
comes close to this one? It was my standard film:-(

Frits Wüthrich


dick graham wrote:
 First Kodak eliminated Royal Gold 25, now RG 100 is to be terminated. I
 used RG 100 consistently for candid portrait work and other work that I
 wanted to blow up. Great skin tone and grain structure for a consumer
 film.  Now it too is going, going, gone.  Has anyone used RG 200 and how
 does it compare to 100 in terms of grain structure and skin tone? I have
 used Portra NC 160 but it is not readily available in my town and it
 doesn't have the color saturation I like for shots other than portrait
 work. The price was also right for RG100.  I could go into Target
 and get a
 sleeve that held 3 rolls of Gold 100 and 1 roll of RG100 for $5.99 USD.

 DG
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Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Robert Soames Wetmore

In the last year, I've most frequently used a PZ-1p and ZX-50 and can second 
this.  Assuming the MZ-6 motor is similar to the two generations earlier 
ZX-50, you may still have the same problem.  The PZ-1p motor is quite a bit 
stronger.

Incidentally - and not to rekindle the for/against PZ-1p thread we just had 
- but I was very happy to add the PZ-1p after using the ZX-50 and would 
whole-heartedly recommend this move up.  However, in fairness to those who 
argue the opposing position, make sure you are comfortable with the size and 
grip of the PZ-1p, and especially with the dials and menus of the interface. 
  It's a very capable camera, with so much more in features than the ZX-5n 
and very little lacking, but it's clearly not for everyone (whereas most 
find the ZX-5n unobjectionable in handling and interface).

Rob

Lawrence,

THe MZ-L or MZ-6 doesn't solve the wind/rewind motor problem.  If you
have used both MZ series bodies and the PZ-1p, there is a world of
difference in the strength of the motors.


Bruce


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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-03 Thread Jostein

- Original Message -
From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 2002 sees the start of my 23rd year of MX ownership. Brilliant
camera.

 Enjoy it.

Most of us do.
Don't we? -)

Jostein
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Re: Newly skinned LXs.

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

a I can see a Pentax Animal Rights thread coming up in the future. :-)
a Tom C.

Actually, I was almost putting my left food on my flaming soapbox ;-)), but
then I remembered that the original poster talked about leatherette.
If my knowledge of English is right, this should be just artifical
leather, no? If not, if it's life snake corpses on the LX, then
beware!  ;-)

good light,
 Frantisek
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Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Thursday, January 03, 2002, 2:57:43 AM, Paul wrote:
PFS Paul replies: Frantisek, I've probably bored readers with my series of
PFS postings about these two lenses and other 20s; search back a week or two 
Thanks. I will also wait for Shel to comment :)

PFS Paul replies: The Sigma 20/1.8 has been getting raves. With an 82mm front
PFS filter, it may excel at all apertures.
Doesn't it have 77mm like the other 1.8 24  28 EX lenses? I tried out
the 1.8/24mm EX in a shop on a Nikon N80 (they didn't have a Pentax
version), shot half a roll outside the shot at different apertures,
and it confirmed some of the suspicions about the DG letters - that it
is softer considerably in the corners. It really almost doesn't vignette,
though, that's a big plus. I will do a 30x40cm enlargement from some
of the shots, and comment on them later.

PFS Paul replies: I may have inferred wrongly that early CZJ 20/2.8s were not
PFS multicoated, based on the following posting on, I believe, a Contax user site:
[...]
PFS the Tessar 2,8/50, the 1,8/80, and the Flektogon 2,8/20. I own the
PFS Flektogon in its final multi coating version from 1979 and a Prakticar 
  
I think this is where the confusion is from. AFAIK he doesn't mean
final multi coated version of the 2.8/20 Flektogon, but he means
final, multicoated, f/2.8 version of 20mm Flektogon, and the
earlier, singlecoated, f/4 version of 20mm Flektogon is the omitted
here. But of course, I might be wrong. I will ask more knowledgable
though.

Thanks for help. I really don't have any other 20mm and not much
experience with such superwides except the 2.8 Flektogon, so I don't
know the comparsions much. I think the Flektogon is very good in
resolution, although not stellar (the maximum is about 30x40cm, which
is sharp to the corners, but up close there is some softness). It has
some corner coma, though, so it's better at BW I think. It excels
absolutely in geometric distortion, no visible distortion at all, down
to edge of negs. But prints from a 1.4/50 (my reference lens, of
course g) have edge in  resolution, which is understandable - a
20mm lens can't very well compete with a 50mm lens in resolution. But
I didn't compare it with a wideangle from Pentax, that's what I would
like to know, e.g. with 2/24 or 2.8/24 A etc. That's up to Shel ;)
Shel, do it well! Thanks in advance!

Good light,
   Frantisek
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Re: Developing Tri-X 400

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

PJ After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been
PJ using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need
PJ some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed).
You have TX and use Neopan 1600 to get to 1600 ISO?!? What a
blasphemy! Both TX and HP5+ are no problem pushing to 1600, no problem
at all, even in D76 (although Microphen is best for it IMO). IMHO
better to use it than a Neopan, not that it's bad, but because with TX
or HP5+ you can cover 400-1600 (3200 sometimes) with one film _you
know_.
[...]
PJ I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and
PJ ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of
PJ sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in
PJ Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me.
Try Rodinal with medium format film. I have a personal love for
Rodinal, so I like it even in small format, but then, I also like
contrasty, super-grainy photographs :) (if the content is good of
courseg).

Snowfield Willie wrote that grain looks are very important for the look
of photograph. I have several very good films where I simply don't
like the grain looks in the resulting photo. And grain looks are, in
small enlargements, a lot influenced by paper too, and of
course enlarger light source, and paper grade - hard grades show the
grain a lot more.

Good light,
 Frantisek
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Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens

2002-01-03 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

JCOC Dont forget the Mamiya Sekor 21mm F4 in screwmount. Great lens.
JCOC Very sharp, contrasty and little distortion. Last one I saw on
JCOC ebay went for $200.
JCOC JCO

Although it's maybe off-topic (nothing is off-topic when discussing
Screwey stuff!), is that a retrofocus lens? I remember reading and
talking about a ? Mamiya ? M42 21mm lens which was non-retrofocus (like
Leica M or LTM) type, and needed a M42 body with MLU, much like the
early Nikkor 21mm, and use of accessory viewfinder.  Thanks!

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: Song reference to Pentax

2002-01-03 Thread Len Paris

Wow, that's amazing!  It must be in very low-fi MP3.  My MP3 is
MegaBytes.

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Song reference to Pentax


 no choking.  it's only 400k.

 thanks Lon.

 Christian

 - Original Message -

  Christian wanted it, so I choked his In Box today.
  My good dead for the New Millenium.  Grin.
  -Lon
 
  Len Paris wrote:
  
   It's a big file.  I doubt if anyone wants you to e-mail it
to
   them. ;-)
  
   Len
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MX shutter coupling (was Re: )

2002-01-03 Thread Jostein

Hi, Henry.
You are absolutely right. The light-intensity represented by 1/4s with
ISO 400 film is exactly as little light as the MX meter can register
reliably.

Jostein -)

- Original Message -
From: Henry Knowles [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 the manual indicates that the lightmeter-shutter coupling only
extends
 to 1/4s for iso 400 film, is that why this happens, or is there
 something wrong?
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Re: Song reference to Pentax

2002-01-03 Thread Christian Skofteland

I only played it for a few seconds  Perhaps the file is corrupt and
incomplete...

Christian

- Original Message -
From: Len Paris [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 Wow, that's amazing!  It must be in very low-fi MP3.  My MP3 is
 MegaBytes.

 Len
 ---

 - Original Message -
 From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  no choking.  it's only 400k.
 
  thanks Lon.
 
  Christian
 
  - Original Message -
 
   Christian wanted it, so I choked his In Box today.
   My good dead for the New Millenium.  Grin.
   -Lon
  
   Len Paris wrote:
   
It's a big file.  I doubt if anyone wants you to e-mail it
 to
them. ;-)
   
Len
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Re: Can you believe this?

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Yes, I can, Bill. If you think that is high, price the Hasslebald 70mm bulk
loader.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Can you believe this?


 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315937391

 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-03 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I think the line that says, Continuous tone not dithering indicates you
can not compare it to an inkjet. Dithering is just another way of saying
halftoning.

Ciao,
graywolf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Digital printing questions


 On 3 Jan 2002 at 6:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:

  Hi Bill,
  The file size does not have to be a divisor of the printer output
  rating. It doesn't matter a hoot. Your printer is of the same general
  type as mine, and your output should be optimum if your picture file is
  in the neighborhood of 550ppi.

 Did you check the link that Gerald provided?

 http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRINT/P400/P400A.HTM

 Granted it's not specifically related to the Epson drivers but I would
guess
 that it still has relevance.

 Cheers,
 Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re[2]: inported film?

2002-01-03 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

I have seen a similar claim that Europeans prefer unsaturated film
whereas Americans prefer saturated film, but the statistic was based
on sales figures of identical films. Afaik US Velvia and European
Velvia (and all other big-name films) are the same as each other, but
Europeans buy less/more of it per something-statistically-valid.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thursday, January 03, 2002, 9:45:56 PM, you wrote:

 I have heard it said that, for color film, Europeans (for example) prefer a 
 slightly different color pallette and color film of foreign manufacture is 
 more attuned to that.  I do not know if that is true, or even noticeable, 
 only that I have read it somewhere. YMMD  For b/w film I suspect that there 
 is no difference.

 Jerry in Houston
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Re[2]: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

Shel,

They will be new cameras.  They have been announced but I don't think
they have hit the shelves yet.


Bruce



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 1:24:53 PM, you wrote:

SB Bruce wrote:

 THe MZ-L or MZ-6 doesn't solve the wind/rewind motor problem.

SB Are these new cameras?  I don't think I've ever heard of them.
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Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-03 Thread Bruce Dayton

Raimo,

Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.

Hope this clears things up.


Bruce Dayton



Thursday, January 03, 2002, 2:06:57 PM, you wrote:

RK Whaddya mean - strength? Do you mean power output or durability? How do you 
measure them? How many motors does the PZ-1p have?
RK I think that durability is a good thing to have but power (i.e. rewind speed) is 
not that important. I had no rewind problems with MZ-5n and no one else has reported 
these problems either. I
RK expect the MZ-S to be even better, of course. 
RK All the best!
RK Raimo
RK Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

RK -Alkuperäinen viesti-
RK Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RK Vastaanottaja: Lawrence Kwan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RK Päivä: 03. tammikuuta 2002 20:04
RK Aihe: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


Lawrence,

THe MZ-L or MZ-6 doesn't solve the wind/rewind motor problem.  If you
have used both MZ series bodies and the PZ-1p, there is a world of
difference in the strength of the motors.

Bruce
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