Re: building a darkroom timer

2002-05-29 Thread Scott Nelson

Chris

If you really want to get into it, you could figure out how to hook up a
kitchen timer or egg timer and use a MOSFET or a relay to automatically turn
the lamp out when the time expires.

-Scott


- Original Message -
From: Chris Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: building a darkroom timer


> On Mon, 27 May 2002, Scott Nelson wrote:
>
> > Hi Chris
> >
> > Good luck with your little project, but I don't think it will save you
very
> > much money.  I built a electronic release for my MZ-5n because I thought
the
> > $45 cdn was too much to ask for what is essentially only a two stage
switch.
> > Mine cost about $20 in parts, but took a few hours to put together.  Net
> > savings effectively zero, and the switch is butt ugly, but it was fun to
> > build.
> >
> > Is the idea that the timer automatically turns off the light source? -
If
> > not you may as well just buy a kitchen timer.
> >
> > -Scott
>
> The fun is in building the thing. But the more I look at it, it may not be
> worth it. I thought about building the cable release, but mine would have
> been a lot bigger than the pentax one so I just bought it :)
>
> The enlarger I bought has no  on/off switch, but I suppose i could use a
> power bar or something as an on/off mechanisim.
>
> - Chris
>
> --
> Chris Murray   /"\
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN
> http://apeman.org/  XAGAINST HTML MAIL
> Cell: 604.861.8307 / \/
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

William wrote:


>So, Pål, which internet forum has the most validity for
>believable comments? I have read a few of the other forums,
>quite often, the comments are a rehash of the "sky is pink, I
>read it on the internet". By this, I mean, the comments are
>often coming from people who have no first hand experience with
>the Pentax 6x7, but are spewing, unquestioningly, comments that
>others have made, which also may be unsupported comments.


I was stating that there are conflicting reports on this issue.  Most, if 
not all comments, comes from users of the camera, some of them have been 
using them professionally. It is an indisputable fact that many 67 users 
reports vibration problems.

Now this link provided earlier get user impressions, just as valid as any, 
from both sides of the issue: 
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000iQI
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001qDR


Pål
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Re: Spot the Pentax

2002-05-29 Thread Chris Stoddart

On Tue, 28 May 2002, Chris Brogden wrote:

> Undoubtedly.  The perfect hybrid of form and function, toy and tool...
>
> snip lots of poetic licence <

I don't mean to sound cynical here, but has anyone ever submitted a
picture taken with the 110 to the PUG Gallery? Seems to me that 'portrait'
might be the ideal theme to put one's money where one's camera is :-)

Chris
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Re: OT: Sekonic L-298

2002-05-29 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

I assume you mean the L-398M.
http://www.sekonic.com/Products/L-398M.html

I have one of these. Yes, it can do reflected light. You need a
'Lumigrid', which replaces the Lumidome to do it.

The meter cannot display the fullest brightness range on its scale, so
when you're measuring bright light you have to insert the 'Hi slide'.
This reduces the amount of light hitting the metering cell and you
read off the measure against a different point on the scale. It's
easier done than said.

There is also a set of 'direct reading slides' as an optional
accessory. Each of these has a different set of holes in which
allow different amounts of light. Iirc you match them to your film
speed and shutter speed and they turn the meter into a manual shutter
priority device. Very clever.

It's a good meter, still in the catalogue, but rather fiddly to use
in the field (it's a *Studio* Deluxe), and accessories are easy to
forget or lose.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Wednesday, May 29, 2002, 4:46:24 AM, you wrote:

> This weekend I have ebayed myself this meter, so while it's in the
> mail, just wanted to ask whoever has an opinion on it.
> In the package there supposed to be a set of slides -- could someone
> explain me what the heck is that? And I assumed it does measure
> reflected light as well. Does it?

> Mishka
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: Spot the Pentax

2002-05-29 Thread Chris Brogden

On Wed, 29 May 2002, Chris Stoddart wrote:

> On Tue, 28 May 2002, Chris Brogden wrote:
>
> > Undoubtedly.  The perfect hybrid of form and function, toy and tool...
> >
> > snip lots of poetic licence <
>
> I don't mean to sound cynical here, but has anyone ever submitted a
> picture taken with the 110 to the PUG Gallery? Seems to me that
> 'portrait' might be the ideal theme to put one's money where one's
> camera is :-)

I'll let you know what I think when I get the test pics back later this
week.  I've only shot one roll through the camera, and I haven't seen it
yet.  My previous post was just waxing poetic on something I know nothing
about.  :)

chris
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how much is enough?

2002-05-29 Thread Bob Rapp

Nikon man flogging Pentax

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1354509589

Bob
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Re: Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread David . Mann

Pål wrote:

> Now this link provided earlier get user impressions, just as valid as
any,
> from both sides of the issue:
> http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000iQI
> http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001qDR

I've quickly read those threads... the people who have problems seem to be
in the minority.  I suspect they may have been let down by their equipment
and/or technique.  I am not sure if there is a ball head in existence that
could reliably support the P67 with a long lens; I know from experience
that the 67 and 300mm is no lightweight.  One guy was using a Manfrotto
141RC head (bogen 3030) which is a bit light for this gear IMO.

There seemed to be a few good tips, particularly on the second link.  The
general consensus seems to be that you need a good solid tripod & head.
Going by the comments the 67 seems to be more vibration prone than other
cameras, but it can be dealt with.  To me its just another tradeoff that
you need to consider when deciding which system to use (note I said
"system" not "format").

I've said before that I'm entirely satisfied with my results and that's all
that matters to me :)  I have yet to be let down by camera shake when using
the 6x7 on a tripod.  I don't think I've gone below 1/60th with the 300mm,
but the 45mm has been used at all sorts of shutter speeds.  I will do some
testing after I get back to NZ to see what my limits are.

Cheers,

- Dave
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RE: Dark Room Light

2002-05-29 Thread HUDERER Bernd

I wonder why there are no dark room lights available using LEDs.
Those give a very small spectrum of light. And with the meanwhile cheap
available high efficiency types it could be very bright. A used LED brake
'lamp' from a car should give a fine dark room light.
If the papers are not sensitive for yellow, a yellow one would give a good
light even to rate the contrast of the prints in the darkroom. With red
light this is IMHO not possible.

regards
Bernd H.
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Re: Dark Room Light

2002-05-29 Thread Shel Belinkoff

There are many.  If you'd like, do a GOOGLE search on "LED darkroom
safelight" and see what you come up with.

HUDERER Bernd wrote:
> 
> I wonder why there are no dark room lights available using LEDs.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Dark Room Light

2002-05-29 Thread Bob Rapp

I really get a kick out of darkroom lights and what is the safe distance and
time exposure. In my darkroom, the enlarging table is 2 or 3 meters away
from the nearest lamp and, if I am doing multiple prints, the exposure to
safe lamps is only seconds before the exposed print is in another box.

I still have and use a pair of old "bullet" lamps fitted with the "OC"
filter and 25 watt lamps. I angle one so as to view the print developement
in the tray by reflection rather than direct light.

Everyone will develope a different method depending on their layout. But to
give too much attention to save lamps is a waist of time. Spend more time
minimising stray reflectance from your enlarger. Mine is opposite my sink
and the wall is painted flat black and I never wear a white shirt while
printing. This stray enlarger light will do far more damage than a safe
light.

Bob
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RE: Reciprocity failure in short-duration exposures? (Re-send)

2002-05-29 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

A posting from yesterday which hasn't shown up yet

> -Original Message-
> From: Peifer, William [OCDUS] 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:58 AM
> To:   '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject:  RE: Reciprocity failure in short-duration exposures?
> 
> Hi Bill R., Bill S., and Aaron,
> 
> Thanks for the helpful information, gentlemen!
> 
> Bill Peifer
> Rochester, NY
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Paul F. Stregevsky

Mishka wrote:

Paul,
What I realized I had sorely missed was a color conversion filter, 
something like 80A. It was still sorta OK since I scanned the pictures 
afterwards and had a chance
to fiddle quite a bit in Photoshop, but still, I really wish I had either 
the filter or tungsten film. Of course, I am assuming you are shooting 
color, right?

Mishka,
I shoot only daylight-balanced color print film, and  I neither own nor use 
color correcting filters. Ace Photo in Sterling, VA does an outstanding job 
at color correcting; "Forget filters; leave the color correcting to me," 
advises Mo.") I need the speed (ISO 1600) of daylight-balanced film. In any 
event, theater lighting is such an odd and unpredictable mixture, I'm not 
sure that tungsten film would be in my interest. For a classroom setting, 
it could...though I more commonly see fluorescent lighting.

I like to tweak the digital scan in PhotoImpact anyway, cropping, enhancing 
or reducing contrast, and perhaps sharpening just a tad. In my digital 
touchups, I used to reduce saturation by 30 percent or more in an effort to 
make the people and their costumes look natural. But I'm coming to realize 
that recipients like their images a bit on the warm side; it reminds them 
of the theater milieu.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
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Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Another posting from yesterday which hasn't shown up yet

> -Original Message-
> From: Peifer, William [OCDUS] 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:47 AM
> To:   '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject:  Home developing -- details, details
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> Really enjoying the latest threads on home darkroom work.  Hope I can
> trouble you all with a few questions
> 
> It's been ages since I've done developing at home.  Back in those glorious
> ancient days, it was Tri-X 4x5 sheet film and tray development, with an
> occasional roll of 620 or 126 in a $3 plastic tank.  An old surplus
> enlarger made prints up to 8x10 -- since that's how big my easel was.
> Negatives developed in Microdol-X; prints developed in Dektol -- because
> those were the only soups to be found at the local camera store.  Haven't
> done any of this in a long time, but I'd like to get my hands back in the
> soup and start developing negatives again.  Won't be doing any sheet film
> or tray developing -- just roll film and a tank.  So I ask:
> 
> (1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of presoaking roll film
> in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the developer?  That is,
> load the roll on the reel, then immerse into a temperature-controlled
> water bath, and then tranfer to the tank.  Apparently a water presoak -- a
> minute or so, IIRC -- was favored by Saint Ansel.  The idea was that this
> would saturate/swell the emulsion, get it equilibrated to the temperature
> of the developer, and facilitate diffusion of developer into the emulsion.
> 
> (2)  Any comments on tranferring a loaded roll into a tank already filled
> with developer, rather than adding developer through the cap?  Saint Ansel
> claimed this alternative gives more precise development.  I can see where
> this would be important with a large tank containing ~many~ rolls, and/or
> with very short development times, but does anyone use this practice for
> small tanks containing only one or two rolls?
> 
> (3)  Finally, any comments on Microdol vs. D-76 vs. HC-110 vs. Microphen?
> My plan is to standardize on a single developer if possible.  I imagine
> I'll probably use mostly Tri-X, but I'd like to try TMax 100 and 400 just
> for comparison.  I can also envision using Delta 3200 for very-low-light
> stuff.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
> 
> Bill Peifer
> Rochester, NY
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Daniel J. Matyola
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


> What is this "World Cup" you guys keep talking about?  Some
obscure sport?

Please tell me you forgot the smiley.

William Robb
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Re: Any NY\NJ Pugsters: Get Together?

2002-05-29 Thread gfen

On Tue, 28 May 2002, Chris Niesmertelny wrote:

> Ann, if you need transportation I'm sure it can be arranged.  Anyone else
> who's temporarily (or permanently) without vehicle, if we set this up and

Why not just set up teh meet for Central Park, NYC? There's plenty of
things to do there and aroudn it, and those of us without automobiles can
still get into NYC without much of a problem.



-- 
http://www.infotainment.org
 "The destructive character is cheerful."  - Walter Benjamin
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 07:12  PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

> The large numbers of pro shooters who use the 6x7, in many cases
> handheld, simply belies the shutter vibration nonsense.

What I am seeing on the Luminous Landscape site is a shutter vibration 
problem with long lenses.  How people manage to take this information 
and apply it to much shorter lenses is beyond me.

My longest lens is the 105mm f2.4.  I have used the 200mm f4 on a couple 
of occasions.  I've only had issues with lack of sharpness at 1/30 sec 
when hand-holding, and virtually never when using MLU.  Looking at my 
negs and transparencies and the prints made from them, I'd say that I 
have far more trouble with inaccurate focus than with camera shake, as 
the 20x24 of my brother on the beach that's up on  the wall at my store 
will attest (the sand in front of him is sharp as a tack, but if you get 
really close to the print you can see that he's a little tiny bit soft, 
but it's unnoticeable at 11x14).  It was shot 1/125 f8 hand-held.

People who say you can't hand-hold a Pentax 67 either can't hand hold a 
35mm either, or have never used one.

-Aaron
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 06:21  PM, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

> I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1 stop.

Don't do it!  If you need to shoot it at 1600, shoot it at 1600, but 
process it normally, the images will be MUCH better.  If you're shooting 
multiple rolls, and don't believe me ( ;) ), start by processing two 
rolls, one normal and one "pushed".  From there, decide what to do.  It 
is very unlikely that you'll be choosing the "pushed" unless your lab is 
underprocessing to begin with.

-Aaron
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Re: Dark Room Light

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 09:01  PM, Brendan wrote:

> Ah so my safe light Jr is fine then, it says OC coated
> on the box.

I experienced fogging with Safelight Juniors and Agfa Multicontrast 
Fibre.  That's why I stopped selling them.

-Aaron
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

I suppose I can watch the World Cup now, as the Leafs have been 
eliminated from the Stanley Cup playoffs.  :(

Okay, someone tell me who I should cheer for!

-Aaron
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William
>
> >
> > (1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of
> presoaking roll film
> > in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the
> developer?

I don't think it gives you any particular benefit WRT image quality.
It will change the contrast slightly, which is why I do it. I often
process with wet reels, and during the loading process I get water
drops on the film. Those drops cause changes in density. If I pre-soak
they go away because the whole film is wet...

> >
> > (2)  Any comments on tranferring a loaded roll into a
> tank already filled
> > with developer, rather than adding developer through the
> cap?

I usually process with 5 rolls. I used to worry about this too, but
can't see a difference between the top roll and the bottom one.

> >
> > (3)  Finally, any comments on Microdol vs. D-76 vs.
> HC-110 vs. Microphen?
> > My plan is to standardize on a single developer if
> possible.  I imagine
> > I'll probably use mostly Tri-X, but I'd like to try TMax
> 100 and 400 just
> > for comparison.  I can also envision using Delta 3200 for
> very-low-light
> > stuff.

XTOL or D-76 for the slower stuff, Microphen or DD-X for the fast
stuff.

tv
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Re: Toronto Chapter

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 08:45  AM, Jeff wrote:

> I may have a few hours to spare on Sunday.
> If any TPDML member is available for a walk around, please reply 
> privately.

Sorry, I'm getting married that day.  ;)

-Aaron
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Christopher Lillja

Once again, this is one of those situations where a little advance scouting will do 
ya' right. Where will you be sitting and what will the lighting be like? Is there a 
special person in the cast who you simply must get? When will they be on stage and 
what will the lighting be at that moment?

Spot meter, man. Spot meter. Or get a reading off someone's face way up close and 
manually lock it in. Just leaving the camera on AE (without spot metering) can really 
mess you up here. 

Use print film and let the lab fix the color. I've had good results with 800 speed 
Agfa Vista or Kodak Supra. This is definitly a situation where a faster prime is very 
handy. In my experience, pushing film to 3200 is not an adequite strategy to replace a 
fast lens. With reasonable lighting, a constant 2.8 zoom should do fine too. If you 
can get reasonably close, a 50/1.7 will do fine. An 85/2 would be wonderful. A 135/2.8 
(or better yet 135/2.5) will do well from a little further back in the house. If 
there's a "big number" in a musical try to get a wide shot covering the entire stage 
with the 50/1.7 or a wider prime. Use a lens hood.

An F4-5.6 zoom (even a constant F4 zoom like my favorite, the 28-70/4 FA) probably 
won't cut it. You'll probably see exposures like 1/30 to 1/125 @ F1.8 to 2.8  (the 
extra shutter speed @ 1/125 or faster will be great to give a little "stop action").

Leave the flash at home. It's very rude to set off a flash while young performers are 
trying to do their thing during a performance. 
 
Good luck.

Chris L. 
School Publications Guy

Christopher Lillja
Publications Coordinator
The Pennington School
www.pennington.org
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Re: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread LEDMRVM

In a message dated 5/29/2002 9:03:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> (1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of
> > presoaking roll film
> > > in water 

The only films I presoak are infrared.

Ed 
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Prague PDML meeting

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

Any PDML members going to be in Prague between June 4th and June 14th?  
Cuz I am!  Maybe we can set up a meet of the Prague chapter of the PDML?

-Aaron
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 03:27  AM, Pål Audun Jensen wrote:

>  It is an indisputable fact that many 67 users reports vibration 
> problems.

And that many more report a lack of them.

What I seem to be noticing is that NO ONE in those threads complains 
about hand-holding, only about tripod use.   Then "common sense" 
dictates that since the camera shakes on an unsturdy tripod, that it 
will also be unacceptable when hand-held.   Since I rarely use my 67 on 
a tripod, maybe that is the problem, or should I say maybe it is the 
solution?  Perhaps my body has a much better dampening mechanism than 
the tripods belonging to the people who experience these problems?

-Aaron
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Re: May PUG Review from Cotty

2002-05-29 Thread Cotty

>I must say, when someone says 
>nice things about a photo you take, it makes getting lost in a bog or 
>covered 
>with mud and burrs (not to mention sloshing around in knee-high boots one of 
>which is full of water) all worthwhile!

Mud + knee-high boots = worthwhile

:-D

I know exactly what you mean...

Cotty

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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

I didn't write that.

--
Thomas Van Veen Photography
www.bigdayphoto.com
301-758-3085 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:16 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Home developing -- details, details
> 
> 
> In a message dated 5/29/2002 9:03:41 AM US Eastern Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> 
> > (1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of
> > > presoaking roll film
> > > > in water 
> 
> The only films I presoak are infrared.
> 
> Ed 
> -
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

TV wrote:
[Lots of helpful comments on my home darkroom questions -- snipped]

Hi Tom,

Thanks very much for the reply.  That's exactly the kind of information I
was looking for.  Especially interesting about the practice of presoaking.
I wasn't sure if this might be better than a few solid raps against the
tabletop to dislodge bubbles.  I hadn't thought about the situation you
describe, where you're trying to get rid of water spots.

Thanks again,

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Aaron Reynolds
Subject: Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67


> On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 03:27  AM, Pål Audun Jensen
wrote:
>
> >  It is an indisputable fact that many 67 users reports
vibration
> > problems.
>
> And that many more report a lack of them.
>
> What I seem to be noticing is that NO ONE in those threads
complains
> about hand-holding, only about tripod use.   Then "common
sense"
> dictates that since the camera shakes on an unsturdy tripod,
that it
> will also be unacceptable when hand-held.   Since I rarely use
my 67 on
> a tripod, maybe that is the problem, or should I say maybe it
is the
> solution?  Perhaps my body has a much better dampening
mechanism than
> the tripods belonging to the people who experience these
problems?

I think what happens with the 6x7 is that there is a rather
large slap from the mirror which is passed to the tripod. This
vibration is very well damped by the body, and is gone by the
time the shutter opens, but it still rings the tripod, which can
stay oscillating for several seconds. This would be why hand
held, vibration is of little issue with the 6x7, The human body
damps the mirror slap as well as the camera itself does.
I had more problems with vibration from my Super Programs than I
ever had with my 6x7.
Caveat: I don't have long lenses for the 6x7. My longest lens is
a 200mm.

William Robb
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Mishka

The exam I mentioned was actually a stage performance :)
And the lab that made me the prints did a horrible job wrt color
correction, and it took me hours of PS tweaking to get it reasonably
right...
Good luck,

Mishka

> From: Paul F. Stregevsky 
> Subject: Re: lens strategies for school play? 
> Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 06:19:07 -0700 
> 
> 
> (...)
> I'm not sure that tungsten film would be in my interest. For a 
> classroom setting, it could...though I more commonly see fluorescent 
> lighting.
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RE: Prague PDML meeting

2002-05-29 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I'll make a special flight just for you and the new wife :)

(of course, I'm kidding, although I'd love to see Prague some day... I hear it's 
beautiful..)

Cheers and have fun,
Dave

Original Message:
-
From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:26:08 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Prague PDML meeting


Any PDML members going to be in Prague between June 4th and June 14th?  
Cuz I am!  Maybe we can set up a meet of the Prague chapter of the PDML?

-Aaron
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mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

Now, one hundred to one really isn't fair.  I'd go 99
to one. :)

What I don't understand is why rugby isn't more
popular in the US.  If ever there was a tough-guy,
macho man sport that's it.  We make such a big deal
about football instead.  In rugby, the guys don't wear
mountains of sissy pads and they don't stop playing
when the ball-carrier gets creamed.  Just pass it off
to the next one.  Much faster game.

Deb in TX
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Re: Anybody read Russian or know anything about this camera?

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

Don't know anything about Russian, but I bet somebody
at the Penta Magazine site does. 
http://www.penta-club.org/


--- Bill Owens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I received my latest ebay purchase today.  It's an
> Agat 18K 1/2 frame 35mm
> with a 2.8/28mm lens.  It's about the same size as a
> pack of cigarettes and
> includes a hotshoe.  Unfortunately, the manual is in
> Russian, and since I
> can barely understand American English, I've a
> question. Aperture is
> selectable, as is ISO setting.  I've figured out
> what I need to know for
> outdoor use w/o flash, but any clues as to how to
> set it for use with flash?
> My guess would be set the aperture recommended by an
> autoflash unit on the
> film speed.  Does this sound like a good a way as
> any to give it a try?
> 
> Bill  KG4LOV
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions.
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Tripod Handle missing

2002-05-29 Thread Nagaraj, Ramesh

Hi,
   I am struck with a strange problem, I need your suggestion regarding this.
I have SLIK Pro 700DX tripod. I lost the two handles of the tripod( Its strange/funny 
but true:-) ). Without the handles I can not coltrol the horizonal & vertical movement 
of the base, so I can not use the tripod. 

So, where I can get the handles?
Can I buy it in the shop? 
Will it be sold separatly? 
Will it comes along Ball head set?
Does handles of any other cheap slik tripod fit 700DX?


Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
Ramesh
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Re: Spot the Pentax

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

> My previous post was just waxing poetic on
> something I know nothing
> about.  :)
> 
> chris
> -

Well, it was some very nice wax you laid down.
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Re: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Bill ...


> (1)  Do any of you have comments on the practice of presoaking roll film
> in water (or perhaps dilute Photo-flo??) prior to the developer?  

I don't see any reason to do it, although Tom's point about loading wet
reels makes sense. The real key is to be consistent in what you do.

> (2)  Any comments on tranferring a loaded roll into a tank already filled
> with developer, rather than adding developer through the cap?  

Again, this is a non-issue.  Perhaps in the days when tanks didn't load
fill as quickly it could have been a concern, but these days tanks fill
easily and empty at about the same rate (at least the Jobo tanks that I
use do).  Again, consistency is more important.

> (3)  Finally, any comments on Microdol vs. D-76 vs. HC-110 vs. Microphen?
> My plan is to standardize on a single developer if possible.  I imagine
> I'll probably use mostly Tri-X, but I'd like to try TMax 100 and 400 just
> for comparison.  I can also envision using Delta 3200 for very-low-light
> stuff.

Never much cared for Microdol.  D-76 seems the way to go, at least until
you decide what other characteristics you may prefer.  D-76 is something
of a standard by which other developers are compared.  The TX and D-76
combination is hard to beat, especially while learning or
refamiliarizing yourself with the process.

Delta 3200 is a pretty nice film.  For that Ilford's DD-X is a fine,
albeit somewhat spendy, choice.  Microphen may be a good option with
D3200 as well.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Debra Wilborn
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


> Now, one hundred to one really isn't fair.  I'd go 99
> to one. :)
>
> What I don't understand is why rugby isn't more
> popular in the US.  If ever there was a tough-guy,
> macho man sport that's it.  We make such a big deal
> about football instead.  In rugby, the guys don't wear
> mountains of sissy pads and they don't stop playing
> when the ball-carrier gets creamed.  Just pass it off
> to the next one.  Much faster game.

I wonder if it has to do with the possibility of real injury
being sustained by the players.
I have long though that NFL football is a pansy game.
Even CFL football is a tougher game.

William Robb
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Re: lens strategies for school play?

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

--- "Paul F. Stregevsky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> PS: A bargain at twice the price. Thanks! :)
> 

You're very much welcome.  Now have fun and show us
some pics when you're done!

Deb
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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NPZ push processing (WAS: Re: lens strategies for school play?)

2002-05-29 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Aaron... I'm not sure about NPZ, but I photographed a play recently with
Fuji Superia Xtra 800 at 1600 and push-processed 1 stop. The proofs were
done by a good printer and the results were awesome (that's not just my
assessment). The color and contrast were good and the grain nearly
invisible. Is there something about NPZ that won't handle the extra stop
during development, or is this a comment about push-processing in general?

(Sorry I don't have any examples to share; I've got to get a better source
for scanning my pix.)

t 

On 5/29/02 6:17 AM, Aaron Reynolds wrote:

> On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 06:21  PM, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:
> 
>> I'll be shooting Fuji NPZ 800 at 1600 and pushed 1 stop.
> 
> Don't do it!  If you need to shoot it at 1600, shoot it at 1600, but
> process it normally, the images will be MUCH better.  If you're shooting
> multiple rolls, and don't believe me ( ;) ), start by processing two
> rolls, one normal and one "pushed".  From there, decide what to do.  It
> is very unlikely that you'll be choosing the "pushed" unless your lab is
> underprocessing to begin with.
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> Thanks very much for the reply.  That's exactly the kind of
> information I
> was looking for.

No problem.

> Especially interesting about the practice
> of presoaking.
> I wasn't sure if this might be better than a few solid raps
> against the
> tabletop to dislodge bubbles.  I hadn't thought about the
> situation you
> describe, where you're trying to get rid of water spots.

Just to be anal, water spots generally refer to drying marks - little
deposits left behind by hard water. I was having little weird spots of
differing density I couldn't explain any other way.

tv
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RE: Tripod Handle missing

2002-05-29 Thread Paris, Leonard

I'm not sure where you are but, if you point your web browser to
http://www.slik.com
you should be able to find a distributor address that can help you.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Nagaraj, Ramesh [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:33 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: Tripod Handle missing


Hi,
   I am struck with a strange problem, I need your suggestion regarding
this.
I have SLIK Pro 700DX tripod. I lost the two handles of the tripod( Its
strange/funny but true:-) ). Without the handles I can not coltrol the
horizonal & vertical movement of the base, so I can not use the tripod. 

So, where I can get the handles?
Can I buy it in the shop? 
Will it be sold separatly? 
Will it comes along Ball head set?
Does handles of any other cheap slik tripod fit 700DX?


Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
Ramesh
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread Debra Wilborn

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> - Original Message -
> From: Debra Wilborn
> Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer
> 
> 
> > Now, one hundred to one really isn't fair.  I'd go
> 99
> > to one. :)
> >
> > What I don't understand is why rugby isn't more
> > popular in the US.  If ever there was a tough-guy,
> > macho man sport that's it.  We make such a big
> deal
> > about football instead.  In rugby, the guys don't
> wear
> > mountains of sissy pads and they don't stop
> playing
> > when the ball-carrier gets creamed.  Just pass it
> off
> > to the next one.  Much faster game.
> 
> I wonder if it has to do with the possibility of
> real injury
> being sustained by the players.
> I have long though that NFL football is a pansy
> game.
> Even CFL football is a tougher game.
> 
> William Robb
> -

The most emabarrassing part is the gobs of money
involved.  Like a few million bucks to air a
one-minute commercial during the Superbowl. 
Everything is so overhyped.  Example: Emmitt Smith of
the Dallas Cowboys writes a gung-ho letter to his
teammates, something like a preseason pep talk, and it
makes the front cover of the Sports section in my city
paper.  Whatever!  I'm not even in Dallas.

Have you ever watched an NFL-Europe game?  Talk about
bizzare.  The one I saw was Rhine vs. Berlin or
Stuttgart (sp?) so everyone in the stands is German. 
The game is called in German at the stadium but the
broadcast is done in English.  All the players are
Americanc and you get the impression that they're the
only Americans in town.  

The only German player I noticed was the kicker for
Rhine (I think it was Rhine.)  Don't remember his
name, but he was a RETIRED soccer player.  The guy was
playing in title matches probably before a lot of his
teammates could walk.  Now he's enjoying life after
soccer as a good place kicker.  What's that tell you
about the toughness required to play American
football?

Deb in TX
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Contact Sheets of Great Photographers (WAS: OT World Cup Offer)

2002-05-29 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I'd like to see a book of just well printed contact sheets.  Imagine
what could be learned by looking at several months worth contact sheets
by some of the great photographers.  Erwitt has some sheets, or portions
of sheets, in the Masters of Contemporary Photography series, which show
how he marked the frames for printing as well as the final print.  Very
helpful.  There are some contact sheet sequences in a couple of WES
books, which are also very useful and revealing.

Bob Walkden wrote:
> 
> There are also some, notably by HC-B, which are from the same
> contact sheet as his classics, which show more context, or give an
> insight into what he was up to when he took the classics.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread David Brooks

And those leather straps on their heads are
not helmets.Keeps players from biteing their
ears off.Wish they had those when i was in
High School:)eh whats that,can't hear ya:)

Dave

 Begin Original Message 

From: Debra Wilborn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:04:39 -0700 (PDT)
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


Now, one hundred to one really isn't fair.  I'd go 99
to one. :)

What I don't understand is why rugby isn't more
popular in the US.  If ever there was a tough-guy,
macho man sport that's it.  We make such a big deal
about football instead.  In rugby, the guys don't wear
mountains of sissy pads and they don't stop playing
when the ball-carrier gets creamed.  Just pass it off
to the next one.  Much faster game.

Deb in TX
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Asahi Auto Bellows M

2002-05-29 Thread Mike Y

I've found I really enjoy taking macro photo's and want to move beyond my
"Star-D" 28,,/f2.8 macro lens.  While out shopping for extension tubes today
I stumbled across a well used Asahi Auto Bellows M, very similar to the one
on Boz's site, priced at 455 euro's.  Two questions:

A).  From quick glances around usenet, this seems really expensive for this
unit.  My next stop is to search Ebay for old sales.

B).  For anyone who uses (used) this, how well does it work?  Anything to
watch out for in a used one?

merci...


Mike Y.
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Re: Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread David Brooks

Don't do what i did years ago on a trip to England.
Went to a 'football' match in Arsenals home stadium
playing Leeds United and i wore the Leeds scarf.We 
had to make a mad dash to the bus(Leeds won)at the 
end of the game.
So my answer would be,the one everyone else
is cheering for:)

Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: Aaron Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


-Okay, someone tell me who I should cheer for!

-Aaron
-



Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread Daniel J. Matyola

Of Course.  A few years ago, I went to a riot and a football (soccer)
game broke out.  :0).

William Robb wrote:

> - Original Message -
> From: Daniel J. Matyola
> Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer
>
> > What is this "World Cup" you guys keep talking about?  Some
> obscure sport?
>
> Please tell me you forgot the smiley.
>
> William Robb
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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--
Daniel J. Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Stanley, Powers & Matyola  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Suite203, 1170 US Highway 22 East  http://danmatyola.com
Bridgewater, NJ 08807  (908)725-3322  fax: (908)707-0399
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
>
>
>
> XTOL, as Tom suggested, may be a good choice as well, but there have
> been enough comments about poor experiences using XTOL that
> many people
> shy away from it because they believe it can't be trusted
> for consistent
> results.

I personally only hear these complaints from the same few folks on
r.p.d.

I'm probably coming up on 500 rolls processed without problems.

tv
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread suaide

The world cup is the true world sport competition: soccer.
Some obscure sport No, about 5.5 million people in the
world loves it. Just the 0.5 million remaining north Americans
and some crazy people don't know anything about it.

To be true what is going to start this weekend are the finals.
The world cup started last year with almost 200 national teams.
They played against each other in regional groups
(one for south america, europe, north america, africa, asia and
oceania). 4-6 teams from each group qualified to the finals that
start this weekend. In the total there are 32 teams in the finals
and everybody call this the World Cup. This year World Cup
happens in Korea and Japan. This event is seem for almost the
entire planet but the Americans.

... and, the best team is Brazil ...

Regards

Alex

--
Alexandre A. P. Suaide, Ph.D.
mailto::[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wayne State University - Detroit, MI

- Original Message -
From: "Frits Wüthrich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: OT World Cup Offer


> On Wednesday 29 May 2002 14:19, Daniel J. Matyola wrote:
> > What is this "World Cup" you guys keep talking about?  Some obscure
> > sport? Dan
> Unlike the world series, this one is open to the world.
> --
> Frits J. Wüthrich
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Many negative comments on the Leica lists, the Rollei list, CVUG, if I
recall correctly, on Greenspun, Pure Silver, etc.  However, there are
quite a few comments that are favorable as well.  OTOH, I've never heard
similar comments about D-76, ID-11, HC-110, Acufine ... you name it.

Is there a problem with the developer, the user, the water, the
technique?  Are the complaints rehashes of old threads? I don't know.

Since you've had such good results, why not share your technique,
including the type of water used, % of developer in solution, and so
forth.  I've got some XTOL here and would love to try it, but I'd rather
emulate someone who's been successful with it.

tom wrote, re XTOL:

> I personally only hear these complaints from the same few folks on
> r.p.d.
> 
> I'm probably coming up on 500 rolls processed without problems.

shel
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Re: OT World Cup Offer

2002-05-29 Thread suaide

> The world cup is the true world sport competition: soccer.
> Some obscure sport No, about 5.5 million people in the

 I meant 5.5 billion people  

> world loves it. Just the 0.5 million remaining north Americans
> and some crazy people don't know anything about it.
> 
> To be true what is going to start this weekend are the finals.
> The world cup started last year with almost 200 national teams.
> They played against each other in regional groups
> (one for south america, europe, north america, africa, asia and
> oceania). 4-6 teams from each group qualified to the finals that
> start this weekend. In the total there are 32 teams in the finals
> and everybody call this the World Cup. This year World Cup
> happens in Korea and Japan. This event is seem for almost the
> entire planet but the Americans.
> 
> ... and, the best team is Brazil ...
> 
> Regards
> 
> Alex
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GFM-bound

2002-05-29 Thread Cesar Matamoros II

I am headed out to GFM tonight.  I am unsubscribing until Monday sometime.

Play nicely, or I'll send the snaked LXen after you,

César
Panama City, Florida
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Re: Contact Sheets of Great Photographers (WAS: OT World Cup Offer)

2002-05-29 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

well, there is a series of videos and DVDs published by the Centre
Nationale de la Photographie in Paris* called 'Contacts' which is
exactly what you're looking for. But if you can get past the first page
of their god-awful website (http://www.cnp-photographie.com/) then you're
a better surfer than I am.

Before you place your order remember that France has SECAM TVs.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

*France...

Wednesday, May 29, 2002, 5:26:49 PM, you wrote:

> I'd like to see a book of just well printed contact sheets.  Imagine
> what could be learned by looking at several months worth contact sheets
> by some of the great photographers.  Erwitt has some sheets, or portions
> of sheets, in the Masters of Contemporary Photography series, which show
> how he marked the frames for printing as well as the final print.  Very
> helpful.  There are some contact sheet sequences in a couple of WES
> books, which are also very useful and revealing.

> Bob Walkden wrote:
>> 
>> There are also some, notably by HC-B, which are from the same
>> contact sheet as his classics, which show more context, or give an
>> insight into what he was up to when he took the classics.
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Re: Toronto Chapter

2002-05-29 Thread frank theriault

Sorry, Jeff,

Kids this weekend.

-frank

Jeff wrote:

> I may have a few hours to spare on Sunday.
> If any TPDML member is available for a walk around, please reply privately.
>
> Jeff.
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fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
>
> Many negative comments on the Leica lists, the Rollei list,
> CVUG, if I
> recall correctly, on Greenspun, Pure Silver, etc.  However,
> there are
> quite a few comments that are favorable as well.  OTOH,
> I've never heard
> similar comments about D-76, ID-11, HC-110, Acufine ... you name it.

Again, I think it's the same handful of people.

There was a known problem with 1-liter packs that was fixed about 2
years ago. Basically, some of the packages weren't sealed, and Part A
would oxidize.

If you don't have a clumpy Part A, you're fine.

>
> Since you've had such good results, why not share your technique,
> including the type of water used, % of developer in solution, and so
> forth.  I've got some XTOL here and would love to try it,
> but I'd rather
> emulate someone who's been successful with it.

I mix it with my super hard tap water and use it like any other
developer, generally 1:1, one-shot.

tv
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread frank theriault

Caveat:  I have no experience with 67's (I wish), and other than peering
through Aaron's for about 2 minutes a couple of months ago, have never
even touched one.

But, as far as vibrations from mirror slap goes, it reminded me of using
long lenses on 35mm cameras.  I've noticed that many sports
photographers at events rest a hand atop the lens.  I always assumed
that it was just a place to put your hand.  Then I read that this is
done to dampen vibrations.

Might that help damp vibrations on a 67 with a longer lens, even on a
cheaper tripod?  Anybody try this?

Just a thought.

regards,
frank

William Robb wrote:

> - Original Message -
> I think what happens with the 6x7 is that there is a rather
> large slap from the mirror which is passed to the tripod. This
> vibration is very well damped by the body, and is gone by the
> time the shutter opens, but it still rings the tripod, which can
> stay oscillating for several seconds. This would be why hand
> held, vibration is of little issue with the 6x7, The human body
> damps the mirror slap as well as the camera itself does.
> I had more problems with vibration from my Super Programs than I
> ever had with my 6x7.
> Caveat: I don't have long lenses for the 6x7. My longest lens is
> a 200mm.
>

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Re: Pentax 67 macro lenses

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Jan van Wijk
Subject: MF: Pentax 67 macro lenses


> Hi,
>
> Looking through the list of 67 lenses, I notice two macro's:
>
> 1) The 100 mm
>
> 2) The 135 mm
>
> What is the difference between them in handling and
magnification ratio ?
>
> Can either of the two do 1:1 without tubes ?

Don't have a clue about the 100mm, but the 135 is one gorgeous
lens. It focuses to 1:3 without tubes.

William Robb
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Re: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: gfen
Subject: Re: Home developing -- details, details



> I think I'm in way over my head, these days. I actually
thought I had teh
> basics pretty well laid out, but its becoming clear that I do
not.
>
> If someone here would be kind enough to offer a suggestion or
two as to
> what you use, I'd be much oblidged. As I've shared before,
I've been using
> Sprint Systems' developer, which they claim is a match for
ID-11 and D-76.
> I've been using it 1 part of developer to 9 parts of water, as
per
> manufacturer's suggestion, and using their times, as well.

Hi Glen, I have pretty much settled on HC:110 for the Jobo, and
Ilford ID-11 for inversion.
As a general purpose developer, you can't go wrong with either
of them.
I haven't tried X-Tol, though if Tom keeps raving on, I might
have to.
I did some pretty extensive testing with T-Max when it first hit
the market, and discovered that it works really well with T-Max
developer, but in ID-11 it does lose film speed, which may
account for the extra granularity that you are seeing.
One thing you have to remember, the manufacurers times are
starting points only. You need to determine your own film speed
and processing times according to your own working environment.
I suggest starting with the paper and moving backwards to the
film in order to dial things in.

William Robb
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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: frank theriault
Subject: Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67



> But, as far as vibrations from mirror slap goes, it reminded
me of using
> long lenses on 35mm cameras.  I've noticed that many sports
> photographers at events rest a hand atop the lens.  I always
assumed
> that it was just a place to put your hand.  Then I read that
this is
> done to dampen vibrations.
>
> Might that help damp vibrations on a 67 with a longer lens,
even on a
> cheaper tripod?  Anybody try this?

With the 055, I hold the tripod yolk to absorb the bounce off
the mirror if I am unable to use MLU for some reason.

William Robb
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RE: Home developing -- details, details

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
>
>
> I haven't tried X-Tol, though if Tom keeps raving on, I might
> have to.

When I started down this evil path,  I tested D-76, XTOL and Microphen
at various dilutions. I think I threw some Rodinal in there too. I
made prints with my enlarger head maxed out onto 8x10's, as well as
full-frame 8x10's. The XTOL clearly had the best "enlargeability"
factor. At 8x10 they all looked good, but I liked the XTOL prints
best. They appear sharp and grain seemed reduced. So far I've found it
to be good with just about every film I've tried it with, except the
super fast ones.

Since then I've also played with PMK, DD-X and FX-37 and still prefer
the XTOL.

Shel makes a fair point, there have been some complaints about XTOL
"crapping out", but I haven't heard a first hand account of it in a
while (3 years?), and Kodak did seem to find the problem - bad
packaging.

It's also perfectly clear when mixed and fresh, so I wonder if some
folks didn't just develop with water...

IAC, I consider it a secret ingredient.

tv
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AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread ERNReed

Bought an AF 1.7x converter some months ago -- used, without an instruction 
manual. I notice that sometimes it just won't AF. (I generally use it with a 
fast 50, so it's not the speed). Is this a known weakness of this device? or 
is there something in the instructions that I should know about, to stop this 
from happening?
(I checked and didn't find instructions for this on the Pentax website.)

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Pentax 67 macro lenses

2002-05-29 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 05:39  PM, William Robb wrote:

> Don't have a clue about the 100mm, but the 135 is one gorgeous
> lens. It focuses to 1:3 without tubes.

The 100mm macro does 1:2 on its own, and 1:1 with the SMC-coated 
close-up filter that comes with it.  Haven't tried it, but I hear it is 
very good.  It's of the same vintage as the 55-100mm zoom.

-Aaron
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread Doug Franklin

Hi there,

On Wed, 29 May 2002 18:55:05 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Bought an AF 1.7x converter some months ago -- used, without an instruction 
> manual. I notice that sometimes it just won't AF. (I generally use it with a 
> fast 50, so it's not the speed). Is this a known weakness of this device? or 
> is there something in the instructions that I should know about, to stop this 
> from happening?

Hmmm.  I've used mine quite a few times and haven't seen any complete
failures.  I've had cases where it didn't want to AF lock, but I was
using it on an SMC-A 200/4, so that's not surprising.  With my SMC-A
50/1.4 and Tamron SP 90/2.5 it works just dandy.

Could you give a bit more explanation of the failure?

1) How often is "sometimes"?

2) Do you mean that it won't acquire AF lock, or that it doesn't even
seem to try to AF before giving up or what?

3) If it doesn't even seem to try to AF, do you feel any vibrations or
anything that would indicate the camera body is trying to spin the AF
motor but the movement isn't going through?

4) Have you cleaned all of the contacts on both sides of the 1.7X AF
T/C?  If one of them "drops out" occasionally, the camera might it's
got an MF lens rather than an AF one.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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RE: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-29 Thread TM

Wouldn't poor contacts cause the motor drive to stop working
completely at times?

I'm not able to run a single roll through the camera w/o the motor
drive acting funny, but it seems as though when it works, it works
fine and this problem never showed up when testing the motor drive
w/o actually winding film (empty camera).

Any other suggestions? I'm going to send this one back to KEH and see
if I can get another one in the meantime- I want two drives as I have
two Super As.

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Len Zedel
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 11:02 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems


I repaired a motordrive with this exact problem!

Len.



On Mon, 27 May 2002, HUDERER Bernd wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I bought a defective Drive A at Ebay. I found the problem: the 
> connection between the battery contacts and the wires inside is done 
> by a metal part which is clamped inside the housing onto the inner 
> side of the battery contacts. The wires are soldered to the clamping 
> metal part. At my drive the clamping got poor. After reworking it, 
> everything works fine again. So maybe at your drives, it's the same 
> contact problem.
> 
> regards
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: TM [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2002 3:53 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Motor Drive problems
> > 
> > 
> > I finally had the opportunity to test out my Motor Drive A and found

> > a problem- quite often, the drive wouldn't wind the entire frame and

> > I'd have to wind it to completion by hand.
> > 
> > I checked and double-checked the attachment to make sure nothing was

> > loose, but it looks like there is something wrong- any ideas on what

> > to look at that can cause this?
> > 
> > It occured on high and low speeds, so I assume it is not a
> > problem with
> > just one speed but rather a problem with the drive entirely. 
> > The camera
> > works fine via manual winding, so that doesn't seem to be a problem
> > either.
> > 
> > When I get the film developed, I'll see if there is something
> > wrong with
> > the camera itself. I really hope I didn't trash 6 rolls of Porsches.
> > 
> > I got it from KEH so I'll be contacting them ASAP and probably 
> > getting another one from them. Too bad, becuase I missed a bunch of 
> > shots because of this, esp. sequence shots that one can't do w/ 
> > manual wind.
> > 
> > Taka
> > -
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RE: Pentax 67 macro lenses

2002-05-29 Thread J. C. O'Connell

cant speak for the 100, but I have
the 135 and its outstanding. Only goes
to 1:3.2 though without tubes.
JCO

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jan van Wijk
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 3:11 PM
> To: Pentax discussion forum
> Subject: MF: Pentax 67 macro lenses
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Looking through the list of 67 lenses, I notice two macro's:
> 
> 1) The 100 mm
> 
> 2) The 135 mm
> 
> What is the difference between them in handling and magnification ratio ?
> 
> Can either of the two do 1:1 without tubes ?
> 
> TIA, Jan van Wijk
> --
> Jan van Wijk;   http://www.dfsee.com/gallery
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/29/2002 6:23:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Could you give a bit more explanation of the failure?
> 
> 1) How often is "sometimes"?

I've taken it out shooting two or three times total and this happened on two 
occasions -- I'd taken some photos with the combination successfully but then 
had the problem on another try. On the second occasion, I turned the camera 
off and back on (in case it was a camera problem) and the lens/adapter/camera 
combination behaved properly after I turned it back on.

> 
> 2) Do you mean that it won't acquire AF lock, or that it doesn't even
> seem to try to AF before giving up or what?

It moves as if attempting to focus but does not come anywhere near 
succeeding. I also failed to mention that this was a problem with objects 
closer to infinity than to me, and it seemed that it couldn't focus that far.

> 
> 3) If it doesn't even seem to try to AF, do you feel any vibrations or
> anything that would indicate the camera body is trying to spin the AF
> motor but the movement isn't going through?

As above ...

> 
> 4) Have you cleaned all of the contacts on both sides of the 1.7X AF
> T/C?  If one of them "drops out" occasionally, the camera might it's
> got an MF lens rather than an AF one.
> 
Will try that this evening -- it has been a few months since I last attempted 
to use the adapter, so I can't remember now if I already cleaned the 
contacts.

Thanks.

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread Rfsindg

Re the 1.7AF adapter:

Do you roughly focus the lens before using the AF?
It can not do it by itself in all situations.
You have to give it a starting point.
Get it into the right range.
It will finish the job.

Regards,  Bob S.
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Re: Auto 110

2002-05-29 Thread Steve Pearson

Yes, I'm excited about "playing" with this camera.  My
first roll was 200 & I did not know about the camera
only reading 100 & 400 speeds.  I can find the 400
speed here in my town.  Does anyone have access to the
100 speed film, anywhere in the world (I wonder)? 
Guess I'm limited to 400.  

Also, have you ever owned the 18 pan focus?  If so,
does it produce good images?  I was thinking of trying
to obtain this lens so that my 4 year old son could
use the camera and not have to worry about focussing.

Thanks again. 





--- Stephan Schwartz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I own a Auto 110 super with flash and the lenses
> 18mm, 20-40mm, 24mm,
> 50mm an the 70mm lens. It's a incredible little
> machine and in my
> opinion it takes sharp pictures in comparison with
> any other 110 camera
> and a lot of ugly digital cameras. Unfortanetely
> here in Germany I can
> get only 110 films with 200 ASA, the camera only
> knows the 2 automatic
> settings 100 and 400 ASA. The 200 ASA will be took
> as a 400 ASA film so
> I have a little underexposure. Picures up to 10 x 15
> cm are no problem.
> You can take it always with you in a little bag as a
> photographic
> notebook because it's very light an compact.
> 
>  
> 
> Stephan Schwartz
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread Doug Franklin

On Wed, 29 May 2002 19:37:11 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Will try that this evening -- it has been a few months since I last attempted 
> to use the adapter, so I can't remember now if I already cleaned the 
> contacts.

It sounds to me like Bob's reply is on the right track.  There are
definitely circumstances where the T/C can't cover the whole range from
infinity in.  You might need to shift the focus point on the "host"
lens closer to the object you're trying to AF.

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: Auto 110

2002-05-29 Thread Rofini

Stephan Schwartz Writes:

>Unfortanetely here in Germany I can get only 110 films
>with 200 ASA, the camera only knows the 2 automatic
>settings 100 and 400 ASA. The 200 ASA will be took
>as a 400 ASA film so I have a little underexposure.

This link from Stephen Gandy http://cameraquest.com/pentx110.htm
explains the cartridge configuration and ASA selections for the Auto
110. All the cartridges I've been able to obtain in the US have the
tab which selects the slower ASA setting in the camera. The slower
setting is apparently 80 ASA. That works out pretty good with 200
speed print film, since modern color print film speeds are
exaggerated.

The decision is with 400 ASA films. The camera will set exposure for
400 ASA if there is no tab on the cartridge. Leave the cartridge as is
for a 1 and 1/3 stop overexposure, or slice the tab off with a pocket
knife for a 1 stop underexposure. I usually trim off the tab in this
case.

Only 2 or 3 cartridges a year make it through my Auto 110.

Mark Rofini
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Re: Motor Drive problems

2002-05-29 Thread William Robb

Taka, I will check with my repair guy on this one. Don't
discount the possibility of an oxidized electrical connection
causing the motor to torque out under load though. Give me 18
hours to find what he says.

William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: Motor Drive problems


> Wouldn't poor contacts cause the motor drive to stop working
> completely at times?
>
> I'm not able to run a single roll through the camera w/o the
motor
> drive acting funny, but it seems as though when it works, it
works
> fine and this problem never showed up when testing the motor
drive
> w/o actually winding film (empty camera).
>
> Any other suggestions? I'm going to send this one back to KEH
and see
> if I can get another one in the meantime- I want two drives as
I have
> two Super As.
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Auto 110 trivia

2002-05-29 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Steve Pearson wrote:
 
> Yes, I'm excited about "playing" with this camera.  My
> first roll was 200 & I did not know about the camera
> only reading 100 & 400 speeds.  

There is a smal "nub" on the cartridge which pushes a
lever (or something) in the 110 body, or doesn't. The
two asa settings for the 110 are actually 80asa and 400asa.
In its day there were also 125asa b&w and 64asa slide films,
so Pentax picked 80asa to slightly overexpose b&w print and
underexpose the slides. Back to the "nub" - if it contacts
the "lever" in the body, that sets to 400asa and if it doesn't
(is short) the body sets 80asa.

The person wondering about the 200asa could clip off this
"nub", thereby shooting at 80asa, probably better than 400asa
for the results (though I suppose 1 stop under would be OK, too)

... info from one of the Carl Shipman Pentax books

Bill
 

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http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Auto 110 trivia

2002-05-29 Thread Bill D. Casselberry

Rofini wrote:
 
> This link from Stephen Gandy http://cameraquest.com/pentx110.htm
> explains the cartridge configuration and ASA selections for the Auto
> 110. All the cartridges I've been able to obtain in the US have the
> tab which selects the slower ASA setting in the camera.

Ooops - I got my post backwards, Rofini has it correct.
The long tab is 80asa and short is 400asa.


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Re: Medium Format dilemmas; 645 or 67

2002-05-29 Thread Paul Stenquist

I handhold my 300/4 at 1/125 with good success. I would imagine that I
could handhold the 400 at 1/250. Much as one can handhold a 200mm lens
on a 35mm camera at 1/250. I also think that my 300/4 vibrates less when
handheld than it does on a flimsy tripod. There's a certain amount of
damping in the hands. On a good tripod, like my Bogen 3036 with 3047
head, it seems to be rock solid at any shutter speed.
Paul

Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> 
> On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 07:12  PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
> 
> > The large numbers of pro shooters who use the 6x7, in many cases
> > handheld, simply belies the shutter vibration nonsense.
> 
> What I am seeing on the Luminous Landscape site is a shutter vibration
> problem with long lenses.  How people manage to take this information
> and apply it to much shorter lenses is beyond me.
> 
> My longest lens is the 105mm f2.4.  I have used the 200mm f4 on a couple
> of occasions.  I've only had issues with lack of sharpness at 1/30 sec
> when hand-holding, and virtually never when using MLU.  Looking at my
> negs and transparencies and the prints made from them, I'd say that I
> have far more trouble with inaccurate focus than with camera shake, as
> the 20x24 of my brother on the beach that's up on  the wall at my store
> will attest (the sand in front of him is sharp as a tack, but if you get
> really close to the print you can see that he's a little tiny bit soft,
> but it's unnoticeable at 11x14).  It was shot 1/125 f8 hand-held.
> 
> People who say you can't hand-hold a Pentax 67 either can't hand hold a
> 35mm either, or have never used one.
> 
> -Aaron
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Re: MZ-7 question

2002-05-29 Thread James Adams

Chris wrote:
If its in good shape that sounds like a good deal. They are around 400+
cdn new.  Its one of the lower end bodies, but it does not have the
crippled lens mount like the mz-50,30 do.
I'll go get it if you don't ;)
Chris

I bought it this afternoon, and with tax came to $200 CDN.  I started a film
straight away, and hope to have it ready to proccess at the weekend.
James
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Re: 645 direction

2002-05-29 Thread Stan Halpin

On average, across all subjects, I do about 50/50 horizontal and vertical.
In my mind, one of the great features of the 645 is/are the two tripod
mounts, each carefully aligned with the lens central axis. So with a
quick-release on each, it takes about 1 second to switch from horizontal to
vertical or back, and with minimal if any fussing to recompose.

15 shots on 120, 30 on 220. The newer 645N and 645Nii are a bit more clever
and get another shot or two from each roll.

Stan

> From: "David Brooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:14:16 -0400
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: 645 direction
> 
> If I remember some of the 645 posts, on a roll of
> 120, you get more than 12 pictures as in 6x6
> format.I believe the 645 gets 15 or 16.I take
> it from this that the 6cm side runs portrait and
> the 4.5cm side runs landscape.
> If so do the 645 owners shoot the camera mostly in vertical
> mode or horizontal.
> 
> Dave(saving up for a camera,but which?)Brooks
> 
> 
> Pentax User
> Stouffville Ontario Canada
> http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/
> http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses
> Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
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RE: F 35-135/3.5-4.5 macro

2002-05-29 Thread Mick Maguire

Hi Nick,  if you get more than one person interested let me know, or send
them in my direction, I have one of these lenses I want to sell too...
haven't got around to putting it on ebay yet.

Regards,
/\/\ick...

++
||
 __/)   Mick Maguire |
|   Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  |
(_/)  ICQ: 48609010  |
 \/  |
  \  /---+



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Nick Wright
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 10:36 PM
To: PDML
Subject: FS: F 35-135/3.5-4.5 macro


Nice little lens. Excellent condition optically and mechanically. $130
shipped within continental U.S. Will consider other offers. I used it
primarily for sports (ie- basketball), but since I now have an 80-200/2.8 I
don't think I'll be doing so anymore.
--
Nick Wright
http://www.wrightfoto.com/
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Please don't snipe me

2002-05-29 Thread CBWaters

I'm about to bid on a lens.  Please don't snipe me ;)

And if everyone who doesn't care a hoot about the NHL playoffs would please
root for the Red Wings on Friday night, I'd appreciate it.  For those of you
who like hockey, this has been a great series, you should watch the game and
remember...
LETS GO RED WINGS!!!

Cory Waters
Wishing it was Friday so he could stay awake to snipe his own bid...

PS
Who else would vote to ditch the next couple days and go right into June
just to see the next PUG???

I'm really tired now,  goodnight.
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Re: AF adapter

2002-05-29 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/29/2002 6:55:57 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Re the 1.7AF adapter:
> 
> Do you roughly focus the lens before using the AF?
> It can not do it by itself in all situations.
> You have to give it a starting point.
> Get it into the right range.
> It will finish the job.
> 
and 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> It sounds to me like Bob's reply is on the right track.  There are
> definitely circumstances where the T/C can't cover the whole range from
> infinity in.  You might need to shift the focus point on the "host"
> lens closer to the object you're trying to AF.
> 

This sounds kind of reasonable; it does behave as if it can't do the whole 
job by itself. Also, I examined the contacts very carefully this evening; 
they looked pristine but I cleaned them anyway ...
However. Just trying the combination out, first it would focus on the 
semi-far subject and a much closer one, and it would shift between the two 
nicely; then it stopped being able to get to the further one without help, so 
I helped it; then it was once again shifting happily between the two. 
Is it actually supposed to require partial focusing by me, or is this just a 
workaround? If it's working the way it should, then I wonder why it's not 
consistent. 

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-29 Thread Stan Halpin

Tom - does this settle the on-again off-again discussion of what it means to
be a professional? One who bleeds for their art?

Stan

> From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 12:25:03 -0400
> To: "Pentax-Discuss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: The Mounting Carnage
> 
> Yesterday I ran out of film during the processional and had to reload
> film right as the bride and father were walking down the aisle. I
> loaded too fast, and the MZ-S jammed. I quickly handed the unit off to
> my assistant, grabbed the other body and shot away.
> 
> Apparently I handed the thing off a little too hard, because I snapped
> the shoe on the hot shoe adapter.
> 
> So she gets up there, and they're saying what they say, and I have a
> moment to try and get the other MZ-S online. I don't have a pen handy,
> so I use the corkscrew on my swiss army knife to depress the rewind
> button. In my rush I stab myself on my finger. Now I'm bleeding, and
> of course, the damned thing is is still jammed. I *do* have 2 or 3
> shots of her coming down the aisle with her dad, so I can't just open
> the thing up - it's out of commission for the ceremony.
> 
> Now I notice that I'm actually bleeding on my gear.
> 
> I have no tissues or towels, and I'm not about to let blood dry on my
> lens, so, yes, I lick it off right in the middle of the ceremony.
> 
> I glance up to see all the bridesmaids staring at me as I lick my
> 28-70/2.8.
> 
> Otherwise it went swimmingly, except for the flash I broke.
> 
> tv
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Re: 50th anniversary camera? (WAS: Anybody interested in getting the Pentax poster?)

2002-05-29 Thread Mishka

They already have it, half frame MF: 645nII
:)

> From: David.Mann 
> Subject: Re: 50th anniversary camera? (WAS: Anybody interested in
getting the Pentax poster?) 
> Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:36:56 -0700 
> 
> Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> 
> > Maybe they'll make a commemorative titanium 67 and shave a few 
> > pounds off of the weight?
> 
> Yes, and they could make it a little bit smaller as well.  Call it 
> the Auto 120 ;)
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> - Dave
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Report on 200f2.5 with ATX convertor

2002-05-29 Thread Pentxuser

I said I would report back on some tests I was doing with the Pentax 200mm 
F2.5 and the Tokina ATX macro convertor ( the one that comes with the 90F2.5 
macro.) The tests are in and the results are excellent. Not extensive tests 
by any stretch of the imagination but enough to convince me that I don't need 
to invest in an expensive 200 mm macro. All I have to do is use what I 
already have to its fullest extent. The photographs — tight shots of an iris 
— were incredibly sharp. The speed of the lens allowed me to soften the 
background -Great bokeh. I will continue to experiment with various lenses 
using the macro adapter and report back when I have results.
 Vic 
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Re: AF Adapter

2002-05-29 Thread GLewis4457

In a message dated 5/29/2002 9:26:23 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Re the 1.7AF adapter:
> 
> Do you roughly focus the lens before using the AF?
> It can not do it by itself in all situations.
> You have to give it a starting point.
> Get it into the right range.
> It will finish the job.
> 
The instructions that came with mine (long ago misplaced) said to set the MF 
lens to infinity when using the adapter.  Works for me.

Jerry in Houston
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RE: F 35-135/3.5-4.5 macro

2002-05-29 Thread Mick Maguire

ooops... didnt mean to send that to the whole group... anyway, you all know
now if Nick's sells then I have another :o)

Regards,
/\/\ick...
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RE: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-29 Thread tom

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stan Halpin
> 
> 
> Tom - does this settle the on-again off-again discussion of 
> what it means to
> be a professional? One who bleeds for their art?

Yes, and gets screwed in the process.

tv
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Re: The Mounting Carnage

2002-05-29 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/29/2002 10:31:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Tom - does this settle the on-again off-again discussion of what it means to
> be a professional? One who bleeds for their art?
> 
> 

That would have made me qualify as a professional mechanic, back when I used 
to repair my own car ...

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: AF Adapter

2002-05-29 Thread ERNReed

In a message dated 5/29/2002 10:55:24 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> The instructions that came with mine (long ago misplaced) said to set the MF 
> 
> lens to infinity when using the adapter.  Works for me.
> 

Thanks -- I was hoping someone could let me know what the instructions said.

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Re: Please don't snipe me

2002-05-29 Thread Chris Brogden

On Wed, 29 May 2002, CBWaters wrote:

> And if everyone who doesn't care a hoot about the NHL playoffs would
> please root for the Red Wings on Friday night, I'd appreciate it.
> For those of you who like hockey, this has been a great series, you
> should watch the game and remember... LETS GO RED WINGS!!!

Please... the hockey season officially ended on Tuesday night when the
Leafs lost.

:)
chris
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Re: Auto 110

2002-05-29 Thread Chris Brogden

I got my first roll of film back from my new Auto 110 today, and wow... I
can count the grain.  They were indoor pics, with and without flash, so
I'l have to try some outdoor ones, too.  But I was surprised at how bad
the quality was and how small the negatives were.  I'll give it another
chance, but it looks like I might continue using my 6x7 as my
snapshots-at-parties camera.

chris
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RE: Auto 110

2002-05-29 Thread J. C. O'Connell

what film did ya use?
JCO
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Brogden
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 1:08 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Auto 110
> 
> 
> I got my first roll of film back from my new Auto 110 today, and wow... I
> can count the grain.  They were indoor pics, with and without flash, so
> I'l have to try some outdoor ones, too.  But I was surprised at how bad
> the quality was and how small the negatives were.  I'll give it another
> chance, but it looks like I might continue using my 6x7 as my
> snapshots-at-parties camera.
> 
> chris
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Re: LX Ni-Cd Battery Pack

2002-05-29 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Wednesday, May 29, 2002, 2:27:51 PM, HUDERER wrote:
HB> Bob S. wrote:

>> I changed the cells over a year ago and just followed Rob's 
>> parts list, 
>> ordering Sanyo's like he used.  I got the right battery just 
>> fine.  They are 
>> a tight fit with little need for foam padding below them.  
>> Aren't the 1/3AA's 
>> a little weak for the application?

HB> I don't think so, as the capacity is the same like the original cells and
HB> the current at 14,4 Volts will be low compared e.g. with the LX winder who
HB> gets the power out of 4,8 Volts !

Well, I think it's too weak, and the original cells were weak too -
only 110mAh in 12 cells! Compared to Battery Grip, which holds 12
cells at 18x the capacity!!! (modern NiMH cells are 1800mAh). I guess
the 225mAh NiCd cells (more modern) are better if they fit. With the
original cells the motor mustn't have lasted very long...

Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: Needed: The Perfect Lens

2002-05-29 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Tuesday, May 28, 2002, 2:06:33 PM, Paul wrote:
PFS> The closest lenses that I know of are the following zooms:

PFS> 1 Tamron SP 70-210/3.5, 62mm filter, made 1984-? manual focus. 1:2.6 
PFS> continuous. Close focus 2 ft, 9 in.0.85 m. However, one owner wrote of it: 
I have the Tamron, and the macro performance is rather poor. At normal
(portrait to infinity) distances it's an outstanding lens though.

There is also the Tamron SP 70-210/3.5-4 58mm filter, which is
two-touch, quite cheap used, and has IIRC 1:2 magnification! And
supposedly quite better at macro than the newer 3.5 version. One list
member has this older one, please, how does it fare at macro?

PFS> If anyone makes an 80-200/2.8 that focuses at 1:3 at the long end, it would
PFS> be Sigma. Have you checked their site?

I remember one Nikon owner complaining his 80-200/2.8 Sigma
couldn't focus closer than 1.5 (2) ? meters at either end, he wanted
to buy the shortest ext.tube but that was too long for him (for
photography of models on the floor from short ladder). But perhaps he
got older model.


Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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RE: Auto 110

2002-05-29 Thread Chris Brogden

The only one that's easily available here... Gold 400.

chris

On Thu, 30 May 2002, J. C. O'Connell wrote:

> what film did ya use?
> JCO
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Brogden
> > Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 1:08 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Auto 110
> >
> >
> > I got my first roll of film back from my new Auto 110 today, and wow... I
> > can count the grain.  They were indoor pics, with and without flash, so
> > I'l have to try some outdoor ones, too.  But I was surprised at how bad
> > the quality was and how small the negatives were.  I'll give it another
> > chance, but it looks like I might continue using my 6x7 as my
> > snapshots-at-parties camera.
> >
> > chris
> > -
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Re: ME Super can do slow flash sync?

2002-05-29 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Wednesday, May 29, 2002, 2:47:00 AM, William wrote:
WR> - Original Message -
WR> From: Albano Garcia
WR> Subject: Re: ME Super can do slow flash sync?


>> Hi, Bill. Just to know: when you do this you still retain TTL
WR> capability
>> (on LX)?

WR> I don't know. For some reason, I doubt it.

It WORKS! (TTL). Just cover only the RIGHT contact (shutter release
side), the LEFT contact (REWIND side) is the TTL contact. TTL works
just fine on my LX with the dedicated contact covered. Even in AUTO
mode set on the camera.
Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Anyone ever made their own light box?

2002-05-29 Thread Scott Nelson

I'm thinking of buying some colour corrected light bulbs and making my own
light box out of wood ~11"x14".  Has anyone done this.  I'd appreciate any
tips.  Please share your experiences / triumphs / disasters with me.  I
would guess that the critcal issues are:

achieving uniform light diffusion
maintaining colour balance
ventilation / cooling

Thanks,
Scott
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