Re: What is a stereo adapter?
If the photographer is interested to use both of his eyes for focussing/zooming, this can be used for the purpose. On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Rob Brigham wrote: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1372691505ssPageNa me=ADME:B:SS:UK:1 What exactly does this do??? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: What is a stereo adapter?
All right all right. Let me practice. ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ... - Ayash On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Paris, Leonard wrote: Ayash, When you say thisgs like that, you need to inlude a winking smiley face. ;-) Len --- -Original Message- From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 5:53 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: What is a stereo adapter? If the photographer is interested to use both of his eyes for focussing/zooming, this can be used for the purpose. On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Rob Brigham wrote: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1372691505ssPageNa me=ADME:B:SS:UK:1 What exactly does this do??? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: What is a stereo adapter?
Agin!? Once I get my hands on you :-))) On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Peter Alling wrote: BEEEP wrong guess again. :) At 04:23 PM 8/12/2002 +0530, you wrote: If the photographer is interested to use both of his eyes for focussing/zooming, this can be used for the purpose. On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Rob Brigham wrote: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1372691505ssPageNa me=ADME:B:SS:UK:1 What exactly does this do??? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Galen Rowell killed in plane crash
Thanks for sharing. Pal On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Pål Jensen wrote: The renowned nature photographer Galen Rowell was killed in a plane crash during this weekend. Rowell was one of the best American landscape photographers and was the author of the best nature photography books ever written (in my opinion). This is a great loss as Rowell was a first rate photographer and an unsurpased comunicator. I had looked forward to 30 more years of Rowells writing on photography. His mountan Light book stand as a landmark in photography writing. He will be missed. Pål - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: K mount bellows II requires dual cable release?
Hi, I think that you are right. The dual cable release is required to close down the aperture and open the shutter simultaneously. If the lens mount of the bellow unit has that lever which causes the lens aperture to remain open even if you rotate the aperture ring higher f/numbers, then it won't allow the aperture to close down. Or in other words, no manual diaphragm. Perhaps, Boz can tell us much better about this. Cheers, Ayash. On Sat, 10 Aug 2002, Sid Barras wrote: Hi, I'm looking at a pentax bellows II unit on ebay. It does not include the dual cable release. Am I correct in saying the cable release is required, or otherwise the lens will only function wide open? Is that right? thanks Sid - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
Hi Bill, Many thanks for the explanation. I will follow the lines With regards, Ayash. On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Subject: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts Hi Ayash: You had best use both flash units in manual. As you know, in auto, they will quench very quickly when used close to the subject. Don't worry about point source or whatever, as that isn't germaine to light measurement anyway. Here is what I would do: If you can keep the flash to subject distance constant from setup to setup, then the calculations become simpler. I would use the 285 as my main light, as it is the most powerful of the two. First, calculate the aperture needed, either via the guide number or the calculator dial, based only on the flash to subject distance. Next, calculate the number of stops you need to open up the aperture. You can do it the hard way, based on the amount of lens extension. The formula for that is : Extension factor = (extension from infinity focus)squared, divided bt (focal length)squared. If you are using a macro lens, the extension factor is often engraved on the lens barrel. Or, you can do it the easy way, using the TTL meter of your camera. Meter a gray card at infinity, then meter it again at the lens extension that will be used. The difference is the number of stops you lose to lens extension. If you are using the second flash as a backlight, then you can ignore it for the base exposure, but you will need to calculate it's effect on the image, again using the guide number, or exposure scale. Figure you want it a stop or so less bright than the main light. If you are using the second flash as a fill, then you will want to calculate the distance from the subject you want it to be, to give an appropriate fill ratio. You will find that having the fill somewhat less bright than the main will give the most pleasing effect. Be sure to make careful notes, especially making careful measurements of the flash to subject distance, as that is the most important measurement for calculating the aperture. You will find that you probably won't have to do a lot of testing until you get it right, providing you follow a fairly scientific approach. William Robb Hallo all! I have two flash units. I want to use both the flashes simultaneously for frontal lighting, sidelighting and back lighting macro shots of flowers etc. I have a synchronization cord, eye and cord extensions (2 m) to fire the flashes simultaneously. The problem is automodes of the flash won't help me while doing macro macrophotography because the f/stop-film speed-distance chart at the back of the flash is made on the assumption that the source is a point source (Am I right?). When the flash is near (1 m) to the subject, it is no more a point source but an extended source. The only way that I can control the light is by adjusting the separation between the subject (flower) and the flash or adjusting the output levels of the flash. Has anybody got some experience in using twin non-TTL flash for macro? I can not understand what aperture shall I set. Do I have to calculate Bruhlich factor and prepare the nomograms? If yes, it becomes tedious. The other thing that is not clear to me, is using the non-TTL flash as a fill flash for macro shots. Is it possible to use the automodes here? Or shall I adjust the output level? If the second is true, what aperture shall I choose for a particular distance (1-1.5 m) for so and so guide number. I use Vivitar 2800 (G.N. 22 m) and Vivitar 285HV (G.N. 36 m at Normal setting of the zoom head). Thanks for reading. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
I am able to understand it now. Many thanks again. With regards, Ayash. On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Subject: Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts Ayash, with the setup Warren describes, the bellows factor and guide number factor cancel each other out perfectly. Exposure must be increased based on an obverse square ratio of the lens to film plane distance; the exposure must be decreased based on an inverse square ratio of the flash to subject distance. All he had to do was calculate a primary exposure, based on the minimum bellows draw, and the film plane to subject distance that it gave when in focus. As he moves the camera closer to the subject, he is racking out the bellows. This has the dual effect of increasing lens to film plane distance (bellows draw), and decreasing at the same rate, the flash to subject distance. It is quite a clever design concept, actually. I have used TTL with success with macro, but the calculations needed to do it are based more on guesswork than science. William Robb On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, W.Xato wrote: Ihave an interesting set up you might be interested in. I used two cheapie Vivitar flashes on home made brackets which I attached to the front standard of a bellows. As you know, the inverse square law says that you must increase exposure as you rack out the bellows. That's right. By how much the exposure should be increased can be calculated from the length of extension of the bellow and the focal length of the lens used. Also it says that as the flash gets closer to the subject, you must decrease the exposure. The problem lies here. By how much moving distance the flash be moved towards or away from the subject amounts to how much decrease or increase of exposure? Can you please give me some data along with the guide number of the flash that you use. But with the flash attached to the front standard, both of these cancel out. I have no idea for how much extension of bellow and separation between the flash subject such cancellation takes place. With my 80mm macro lens and Velvia, I just set it at f8 and shoot away. If the guide number of the flash that you use are not matching with with mine, the aperture value will be different in my case. However, it can be adjusted to f/8 by adjusting the flash to subject distance. But hey, I don't know how much separation there should be. I have to increase the exposure 1/2 to 1 stop at max exxtension but it is easy to apply. I should say that you have calibrated your system well so you can easily tell the in and outs of it. For me it is very difficult. TTL is difficult for macro because often the subject is small in comparison to the whole macro scene. TTL reads the whole scene and your macro subject in the foreground will be overexposed. Macro flash is easier to do manually even if you have to calculate exposure and bellows extension factors. Yes, you are absolutely right. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
Hallo Warren, Many thanks for your comments. I have to find out the basic exposure correctly now. With the help of Bill and you, things look much simpler now. No, completed calculations and refering to nomogram. With regards, Ayash. On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, W.Xato wrote: Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 01:18:57 +0530 (IST) From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts I have no idea for how much extension of bellow and separation between the flash subject such cancellation takes place. Maybe it was because the 80mm lens I was using was a 1:1 lens, which meant that it was symetrical on both sides of the lens. So, moving the lens closer to the subject moved the flash closer to the subject at the same time. Result, little or no compensation required once the basic correct exposure was arrived at from trial error. If the guide number of the flash that you use are not matching with with mine, the aperture value will be different in my case. However, it can be adjusted to f/8 by adjusting the flash to subject distance. But hey, I don't know how much separation there should be. I think I would adjust the aperture a bit rather than the flash because it worked so well for me. Warren HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Thinking of relinquishing the LX :(
I feel that you can do all the things with LX that you want to do with K1000 so I suggest you to keep the LX and use it though you are not using it to its full potential. But just keeping an LX and not using it, is not good at all and selling it is a disaster because it is an asset though I don't posses it. Hope it helps. - Ayash. On Sat, 10 Aug 2002, David Chang-Sang wrote: Boy.. I tend to flip flop more than a fish out of water sometimes But I guess that's what this learning thing is all about. Here's the scenario: after having the LX for a few months (I like it, I do.. honest.. hear me out) I'm starting to realise that I may not be using it to it's FULL potential. What do I mean ? I can't remember ever using the Exposure compensation, a shutter speed faster than 1/1000, a shutter speed slower than 2 seconds (and 2 seconds I've used maybe a handful of times); I've only tried to do double exposures on one roll of film with mixed results; never used the MLU functionality, never used the analog TTL flash functionality etc. So.. now I'm thinking I may go back to the all manual (save for the meter) K1000 that I did love dearly. I mainly shoot people... I mainly shoot BW (occaisional color) - I use a Vivitar 283 flash so I have no need for TTL - The LX is a sweet camera, small, and nice to use but do I REALLY use it to it's full potential enough times to warrant hanging onto it ? Am I being silly ? Help :) Dave - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Tachihara stuff
Just now, a silly idea struck my mind. Why SLRs are not made on wooden chasis in a metal casing? The vibration damping performance will be quite good, I hope. - Ayash. On Sat, 10 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote: The Shen Hao wasn't being made when I bought the Tachihara. From what I was able to glean from the web, it looks like a nice product. When I bought, the choices were pretty much Wista, Wisner, Zone VI, and Tachihara for wood field cameras. The Tachihara gives up a lot of features compared to the 3 cameras mentioned, but it was a lot less expensive. Make sure the wood in the Shen Hao is hardwood (one website mentioned teak, but that was a consumer review, so who knows if it is), and a hardwood suited to camera building. Also, make sure that the wood has been dried naturally, not kiln dried, as it will be more dimensionally stable. I know a guy who bought some sort of made in China view camera some years ago. The thing was made of spruce, and it wasn't dimensionally stable. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
Since, you are too critical about flash to subject distance, I will strictly follow the lines. Many thanks again. With regards, Ayash. On Sat, 10 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote: Hi Bill, Many thanks for the explanation. I will follow the lines Talking about lines, think about attaching a string to your flash once you have figured out your exposure calculations. The string would be the flash to subject distance. This is a technique I used before I bought a flash meter. Once I had figured out my flash to subject distances for the Metz flash units in umbrellas, I attached string of the appropriate lengths to the flash brackets. This made setting up the studio on the road possible without buying a piece of equipment that I could ill afford at the time. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Twin flash for Macro: Some thoughts
Hallo all! I have two flash units. I want to use both the flashes simultaneously for frontal lighting, sidelighting and back lighting macro shots of flowers etc. I have a synchronization cord, eye and cord extensions (2 m) to fire the flashes simultaneously. The problem is automodes of the flash won't help me while doing macro macrophotography because the f/stop-film speed-distance chart at the back of the flash is made on the assumption that the source is a point source (Am I right?). When the flash is near (1 m) to the subject, it is no more a point source but an extended source. The only way that I can control the light is by adjusting the separation between the subject (flower) and the flash or adjusting the output levels of the flash. Has anybody got some experience in using twin non-TTL flash for macro? I can not understand what aperture shall I set. Do I have to calculate Bruhlich factor and prepare the nomograms? If yes, it becomes tedious. The other thing that is not clear to me, is using the non-TTL flash as a fill flash for macro shots. Is it possible to use the automodes here? Or shall I adjust the output level? If the second is true, what aperture shall I choose for a particular distance (1-1.5 m) for so and so guide number. I use Vivitar 2800 (G.N. 22 m) and Vivitar 285HV (G.N. 36 m at Normal setting of the zoom head). Thanks for reading. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Strange Canadian Customs
On Thu, 8 Aug 2002, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Subject: Re: Strange Canadian Customs So, no sales tax, tariff, administrative fees for new items or is it the country from where the item is coming matters? What is administrative fees? Just inquisitive. I suspect it is a country of origin thing, as they should be taxing anything coming into Canada with the federal sales tax, at the very least. An administrative fee is any fee charged over and above the tarrif rate to handle the package. Private companies such as UPS call it a brokerage fee. William Robb Thanks for the explanation. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Second Hand MZ-3
Won't it be ZX-3, though I couldn't find any such name at pentaxusa website? Just guessing. - Ayash. On Fri, 9 Aug 2002, Shaun Canning wrote: Can anyone tell me if the MZ-3 was called something different in the US? Also, does anyone know what a good example is selling for second hand. I have searched the completed items on e-bay and only found one old auction (it included a 43mm f1.9, and both items sold for US650.00, but how much of that was the lens?). Cheers Shaun. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: blank fire
Not exactly. It contained many 'virtual photos' of a hill station (Nandi Hill) that I visited last month and that time I was accompanied by one my friend. :-( I don't care much about the money (since it was a short trip and it can be visited again) that I wasted but I do care about the moments (some candid photographs were there in the 'virtual film' loaded in my Ricoh.) :-(( Regards, Ayash. On Sat, 3 Aug 2002, Alan Chan wrote: Well, shxt things happened. Luckily you didn't shoot with your friends. :) regards, Alan Chan Today I was shooting with my new Ricoh XR-8 Super at a park nearby. Altimately the frame counter reached 36. I thought that I may be able to squeeze out 2 more at least and went ahead, 38 now. But hey! I can advance it further. I was over joyed. Took one more, 39 now. To my surprise, I found that I can get one more. I grew suspicious. This is impossible. I replaced the lens cap on the lens, adjusted the aperture to minimum aperture setting (f/22), adjusted the shutter speed to the fastest and depressed the shutter to avoid any multiple exposure if frame no 39 is really there and had been exposed. I found that it was possible to 'advance the film' further and further. I didn't noticed whether the film rewind knob is rotating or not. Has the film snapped? Or is it a faulty body? The next moment, I rushed to the shop from where I purchased it. He checked it and said,probably you have not loaded the film correctly What? What are you saying? Plese let me check. He inserted the camera in a changing bag and confirmed that he was right. Boy, oh boy! I blank fired 40 bullets. :-(( First time in my life. Cheers, Ayash. _ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: blank fire
On Sun, 4 Aug 2002, David A. Mann wrote: I once misloaded my Z-1p and when it discovered that it couldn't wind the film out, it rewound the film back into the canister. Had to go into the shop to get my film leader back out and try again :) I was not aware that Z-1p behaves same as Z-10 as far as film loading error is concerned. Are the all Z-series cameras behave like this? Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: blank fire
On Sat, 3 Aug 2002, Maciej Marchlewski wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] Boy, oh boy! I blank fired 40 bullets. :-(( First time in my life. Don't be to sad. As Forrest Gump said in the movie shit happens... I have to accept it now as there is no other way. To make it easier for you I can tell that it also happenned to me. I loaded my newly purchased MX and had taken some nice Christmas shots of my family and begun to get suspicious when couple days later I managed frame 39. I thought that there might be something in the winding mechanism that allows to move the lever without moving the film (some sort of clutch) so rewinded the film and had it developed ordering a set of prints. To my dismay it turned out that after I winded from frame 1 to 2, film slipped from the taking spool and all the shots were made on the same piece of film. Is it a common problem in all mechanical manual focus slrs? It also depends on the make/brand/model? For example, Pentax LX won't have this problem at all, just a guess. Of course I was ready to blame it on a camera malfunction but after questioning the PDML I found it tough lesson to watch the rewind knob as I wind the film. Yes, that is a big lesson for me. From now one I shall always watch it till all the frames are shot. No compromise. To cheer you even more I can tell you that it also happened to other people from PDML :-) Cheers Maciej Many thanks for cheering me up. :-) I feel much better now. :-)) Thanks again. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
blank fire
Hallo all! Today I was shooting with my new Ricoh XR-8 Super at a park nearby. Altimately the frame counter reached 36. I thought that I may be able to squeeze out 2 more at least and went ahead, 38 now. But hey! I can advance it further. I was over joyed. Took one more, 39 now. To my surprise, I found that I can get one more. I grew suspicious. This is impossible. I replaced the lens cap on the lens, adjusted the aperture to minimum aperture setting (f/22), adjusted the shutter speed to the fastest and depressed the shutter to avoid any multiple exposure if frame no 39 is really there and had been exposed. I found that it was possible to 'advance the film' further and further. I didn't noticed whether the film rewind knob is rotating or not. Has the film snapped? Or is it a faulty body? The next moment, I rushed to the shop from where I purchased it. He checked it and said,probably you have not loaded the film correctly What? What are you saying? Plese let me check. He inserted the camera in a changing bag and confirmed that he was right. Boy, oh boy! I blank fired 40 bullets. :-(( First time in my life. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 'Best' photos of the year
Hi Cotty, On Fri, 2 Aug 2002, Cotty wrote: Hi Ayash, Sadly I do not. No problem. :-) I have an old school friend in Oregon who sends me all my best humour. I rely on him for it all! In that case, please ensure that you should also send to PDML also. It is fun to watch and appreciate the moment. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: August PUG is open
Many thanks, Adelheid. Cheers, Ayash. On Wed, 31 Jul 2002, Adelheid v. K. wrote: Hi *, the August PUG is ready to go. I am a bit early but you probably don't mind. ;) Another month with great pics. Cheers Adelheid -- About resizing your pics: To make the procedure easier I am going to resize them without further notice - but if somebody is unhappy with the result, please send me one you like better in the proper size and I'll swap it on the server. I hope this is a fair deal. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 'Best' photos of the year
Snapped at the right moment. Amazing. Do you have anymore collections as this one? Cheers, Ayash. On Thu, 1 Aug 2002, Cotty wrote: A friend sent me this URL with 20 odd shots that you may find amusing... http://home.pacbell.net/rds33/best_photos/index.html#top enjoy, Cotty - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: OT: Writings on The Wall
On Tue, 30 Jul 2002, Bob Walkden wrote: you might like to remind yourself that not everybody on the list is from the USA. There was another wall for a little while, in Berlin, which some people still remember. Bob Bob, you are missing one more important wall. The Great Wall of China, one of the seven wonders of the World. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: ZX-L
On Tue, 30 Jul 2002, Brad Dobo wrote: I'm just a stupid Canuck, but I've never heard of the ZX-L, can anyone give me a link to it? It's not on the Canadian Pentax site. Brad Dobo Hi! Please look for MZ-6 at Canadian Website. As far as, I can remember, it was there at the Canadian Pentax Site. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax 35-80 smcp-a f4-5.6 lens
From: Mat Maessen Subject: Re: Pentax 35-80 smcp-a f4-5.6 lens For a school camera, I would definitely push him towards a 50mm prime lens over the 35-80 zoom. I have this 35-80, as well as a couple of prime lences (A-series 50mm f1.7, and an M-series 50mm f2.0), and the primes are MUCH more versatile. You get a minimum of two stops more light w/ the prime lens. I second Mat. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT: Writings on The Wall
On Tue, 30 Jul 2002, Robert Harris wrote: William Robb wrote: Not surprised you got the wrong answer. Pink Floyd is far more meaningful to most people than the above mentioned wall (which I had only vaguely heard of, I might add). William Robb Speak for yourself, please. What is a Pink Floyd? Some sort of silly drink? No, it is a rock band. :-) Haven't you heard the name of Roger Waters? -Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: ZX-L (Was: Upgrading to auto focus
On Mon, 29 Jul 2002, Lawrence Kwan wrote: Some have complained the ZX-L's use of pentamirror instead of ZX-5n's pentaprism. I have been using MZ-7 (which has the same pentamirror viewfinder as ZX-L) side by side with my Super A and ME Super (both pentaprisms), and personally, I don't find it a problem at all. I don't have MZ-7/L but I have MZ-M which hase penta mirror arrangement. I also possess Ricoh XR-8 Super which has a pentaprism viewfinder. The viewfinder magnification of Ricoh is higher than MZ-M/7/L. The viewfinder of Ricoh looks bigger and brighter than MZ-M/7/L and I find it easier to focus on the subject when the image looks big and bright. It will depend from person to person but I am begining to like my Ricoh more than MZ-M. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Street Photography (was: Re: AP UK on why digital is no good.)
On Sun, 21 Jul 2002, Cotty wrote:
5. Claim to be a photographic student. (this last one works for me - and
not a lie - i'm learning all the time!)
...all ways of guaranteeing people will ignore you.
Hey Cotty!
I liked your last advice. Let me try it out. :-)
Ayash.
Make sure you have rebuttals for questions like: 'Oh really, where?' and
'What's the name of the course?'. ('University of Greater Life', and
'Dilatation and Reportage')
Good point.
Yep, the answers are all ready.
Seriously though, I think that most incidents can be overcome completely
by attitude. I'm sure Shel Belinkof would be great at teaching us all
this one.
Hi Shel! Are you out there? Could you please teach us the basics of candid
street photography? What were the problems that you faced when you first
started candid street photography?
For true reportage, the idea is to remain hidden - though not in the true
meaning of the word, not hiding around a corner. What I mean is 'hidden
from the mind'. Blend into the background if you can. There should be
nothing at all to raise your 'street profile' such that it becomes
noticeable.
camoflage. I wished to become the liquid metal cyborg T-1000 in the movie,
Terminator II: The judgement day. :-)) Just joking.
A small rangefinder is ideal, carried without a strap, in the
hand. The movement up to the eye with the camera must be instinctive,
faultless, and brief. As if you were scratching your nose: the arm goes
up, is there for two seconds, and goes back down. Or shoot from the hip,
or anywhere.
That's quite fast but it is required to capture the desired moment.
Pre-focussed, I have made many shots this way. Some work,
some don't. All are interesting for what they are.
Since, I possess a manual focus SLR, I use this technique quite often.
Being well over six feet in height, I am instantly saddled with a great
weight for this kind of street photography in that I instantly draw
attention, even if slight. My 'cover' is blown even before I've begun!
This is why I opt for fully 'out' street. Hence I can use an SLR and a
relevant lens - approaching my subjects, or they approaching me, in full
knowledge that I am armed with a camera. A happy, smiley face doesn't go
amiss here.
I didn't expected this. You can not abandon the battlefield like this.
:-)
Confidence is the key. If you look like you know what you are doing, and
are chirpy and up-tempo about it, then this method seldom fails. If
someone does not want to be photographed, it will become evident very
quickly. But do they really want to be photographed, even though they say
'no'??
By this, let me give you an example. When filming street interviews for
tv (called 'vox pops' - Latin: voice of the people) the reporter and I
have to identify ourselves. The reporter will say something like: 'Hi,
we're from Central news, just asking people about the new shopping centre
plans - can I ask you?' In my experience there are several responses, but
the three main ones by far are:
1. 'Oh well, yeah...uh huh (etc)'
2. 'No thanks (possibly smiling or even giggling)'
3. (no words just a hand up and turns quickly away from the camera).
Sometimes: 'I'm in a hurry'.
Now number 1 is obvious, and so is number 3. But number 2 said 'no' - did
they actually mean 'yes'? In fact, in the majority of instances, this is
actually the case. After the 'no thanks', a further 'oh go on' from the
reporter, possibly interspersed with a quick 'pretty please with sugar on
top and a cherry' from me (all the while filming) the majority stop and
chat merrily away.
The point is, the said no, but meant yes. In fact in their own minds they
were saying: 'oh gosh, I really want to be interviewed, but I can't
possibly show such a conceited attitude as to actually say yes!!'
:-)), quite interesting.
These folk make up the majority of your average street population. I've
learned how to win them around, and it heavily involves drawing attention
to oneself. It took a few years before I could do it without thinking,
and to begin with I was appalled at the fact that I was actually being
the centre of attention, possibly to a whole street full of people.
This happens with me also when I go out in the street, not because I am
tall but because people see a long lens (F 100-300 f/4.5-5.6) hanging from
my neck along with a big camera bag on my shoulders.
However, it is perfectly do-able, and once the barrier is crossed, is a
whole lot of fun.
Yes, I understand that but I have not crossed the barrier yet but I have
not quit the battlefield. Probably one day, I may come out successful. God
knows.
Didn't mean for this to be a mini-primer on my attitude to street, but
hey, it's Sunday morning, the Mrs has gone off to a boot sale (flea
market), the coffee and croissants have settled nicely, the shower
beckons, and the French Grand Prix
Re: Digital video for stills
On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Bob Walkden wrote: I can see a lot of advantages to shooting a burst of video rather than a few frames of stills, and if it's easy to get a high quality still out of the video burst, I wonder why anybody would use a stills camera if they have a DV camera like this? It seems to me that this turns on the issue of the quality of the output. Does anybody know how the quality of these things compares with high-end digital stills cameras? Any other issues to consider? Hallo Bob! (pause) :-( so,, I can assume that you are dumping the film SLRs going for digital. OK, please go ahead. :-( Wish you all the best. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Bokeh
Hallo Francis! The bokeh looks better because of its circular shape in the first photograph (tree bark) though they are not quite prominent. In the second photograph of the bud, the bokeh is prominent but it is clearly of hexagonal shape. May be some people may like the other way round. :-) Cheers, Ayash. On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Francis Alviar wrote: Hello to all, I have two photographs that I would like to group to view. Please let me know if the bokeh is pleasing or not. Both photos were taken with screwmount lenses. Thank you. Here's the link:http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/three_gs/Bokeh/samples.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Digital video for stills
Aaaah, I am getting some fresh air. Cheers, Ayash. On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Rubenstein, Bruce M (Bruce) wrote: High quality video isn't the dame thing as high quality stills. There's still only something like 400 scan lines, so it's not going to be better than VGA resolution. It may look fine on a monitor, or small (tiny) print, but nothing like a photography even at 4x6. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Street Photography (was: Re: AP UK on why digital is no good.)
check the gasket check the oil sealing check the oil quality? Has it gone bad? Yes? then change it. another messy job. getting a good bath with vacuam pump oil of grade 18. :-( Oh no! What you have done? You have used the wrong grade. Use grade 100. Drain it out. Another bath but this one in a fresh oil. :- Where can I find grade 100, Sir? You fool, don't you know that. Ring up the company. Ask them. One day passed by. The pump is fixed. Now what?? The diffusion pump is not working, Sir. Then kick it. :-))) Unfortunately, Cotty, I am trying hard to fix it but I have not kicked it yet. Cheers, Ayash. On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Cotty wrote: Ayash wrote: Uhhh, h, the rotary vacuam pump is giving problem. I have to rush for it now. Oh yeah - that's a pain. That happened to me once and I couldn't sit down for a week... ;-) Cot - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
This is test mail!
Please ignore this mail. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: have a look at these and tell me what you think
Hi! The photographs are really quite good and creative. But why there is no comment for photograph no. 3 in your list? - Ayash. On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, happyness wrote: http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=126134 http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=138009 http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=124165 http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=148245 http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=120699 http://www.photosig.com/viewphoto.php?id=144834 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: GFM Group Shot
You have not mentioned the names of the persons in the photograph. I think that they are all PDMLers. - Ayash. On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, tom wrote: While we're at it: http://www.bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/gfm-group.jpg I'd like to say it was a bad scan, but the fact is I didn't give the flash enough juice and it got a little fooled by all that bright sky... tv - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: camera strap
On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: They never got around to fixing them after the Canadians invaded them, destroyed their roadways and burned down their White House HAR!!! Why the fellow Canadians of PDML are silent about this accusation? Do you feel very easy while digesting it? Please see: http://www.multied.com/1812/Washington.html Thanks for the website. I have visited it and now I know. The gang of motorcycle enthusiasts that I hung with would sometimes wrap a wallet chain around their fist prior to talking to potentially irksome people. Are you joking or is it a fact? Fact. I am amazed. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: camera strap
Gottcha! Ayash. On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Peter Alling wrote: Well that would depend on the State and the current time in the repair cycle. At 09:06 PM 7/14/2002 +0530, you wrote: On Sat, 13 Jul 2002, Peter Alling wrote: Being from the formerly industrialized North East US, that's a fashion statement usually associated with the Motor Cycles up here, (keeps the wallet from falling out on the highway, I guess). Are the highways of 'formerly industrialized North East US' full of bumps and ditches which results into serious vibrations for a motorcyclist and hence pointing to 'the wallet falling out on the highway'? ;-) Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: camera strap
On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Jeff wrote: You have to remember, this is coming from a fellow Canadian, who lives in the Prairies. They get pretty bored and they start fantasizing, but we accept them as they are. Us from Ontario are busier people. We go to Canada's Wonderland to eat funnel cake. Now that's excitement. Jeff. Oooh! Now I understand. Things are getting much clearer. What do you think, Sir (refering to William)? - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 12:57 AM Subject: Re: camera strap On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: They never got around to fixing them after the Canadians invaded them, destroyed their roadways and burned down their White House HAR!!! Why the fellow Canadians of PDML are silent about this accusation? Do you feel very easy while digesting it? The gang of motorcycle enthusiasts that I hung with would sometimes wrap a wallet chain around their fist prior to talking to potentially irksome people. Are you joking or is it a fact? Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: camera strap
On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Chris Brogden wrote: On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: On Sun, 14 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: They never got around to fixing them after the Canadians invaded them, destroyed their roadways and burned down their White House HAR!!! Why the fellow Canadians of PDML are silent about this accusation? Do you feel very easy while digesting it? What accusation? It's history. We tend to brag about our military accomplishments much less than other countries. Hi Chris! Please don't me angry. Sorry to say that I didn't knew that part of History that William told, but many thanks to him as he gave me a website where I learnt the details. Yes, surely, it is a matter to brag about the military accomplishment. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: GFM Group Shot
On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, tom wrote: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ayash Kanto Mukherjee You have not mentioned the names of the persons in the photograph. I think that they are all PDMLers. Oops, I thought we were all famous and needed no introduction. http://www.bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/gfm-group.jpg Top row, left to right: Bill Owens, John DeLoach, Cesar Matamoros, me. Bottom row, left to right: Phyllis Owens, Doug Brown Shoes Brewer, Mark Roberts, Don DeLurker tv Hallo Tom! Thanks for the reply. Of course, you are all famous but I have never seen the faces before so I asked for names to identify each one of you. Thanks again. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: GFM Group Shot
Thank you very much. Ayash. On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, Bill Owens wrote: Back row, left to right Bill Owens, John Deloach, Cesar Matamoros, Tom VanVeen Front row, left to right Phyllis Owens, Doug Brewer, aka List Guy, Mark Roberts, Don DeLurker Bill KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 12:21 PM Subject: Re: GFM Group Shot You have not mentioned the names of the persons in the photograph. I think that they are all PDMLers. - Ayash. On Mon, 15 Jul 2002, tom wrote: While we're at it: http://www.bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/gfm-group.jpg I'd like to say it was a bad scan, but the fact is I didn't give the flash enough juice and it got a little fooled by all that bright sky... tv - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: PDML UK 2002 pic posted
I add one more question: Who was the winner of the beauty contest? Cheers, Ayash. On Sat, 13 Jul 2002, David Chang-Sang wrote: Cotty.. good to see the pentax crew on the other side of the pond :) big question though: Who's camera was used to snap the photo ? Cheers, Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cotty Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 9:51 AM To: Pentax List Subject: PDML UK 2002 pic posted Pic and a few lines posted for your viewing pleasure: http://www.macads.co.uk/pdml Cheers, Cotty ___ Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out the UK Macintosh ads http://www.macads.co.uk - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Vivitar 283
On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, [iso-8859-2] £ukasz Kacperczyk wrote: Hi all, I've just bought my first flash - a Vivitar 283, and as usual I have some questions. First of all - where can I find an online manual for it? The light emiting thing of this particular specimen is a bit yellowish - is it normal, or will my color photos have a yellow cast? It is absolutely normal and it is not meant to give a yellow cast on the photographs. It is meant to reduce the colour temperature towards of too bluish light of flash. -Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Pentax MX
On Thu, 11 Jul 2002, Lawrence Kwan wrote: Not as it stands now! There are still too many problems with the surgery Could you please let me know the nature of the after effect of that surgery? You may check out this web site: http://www.surgicaleyes.org/ Admittedly, it is a bit biased as it is a support group for those with failed surgery. But it does contain a lot of info of potential complications. And it gives you a useful different point of view from that of the laser eye clinic's sales talk Hi Lawrence! Many thanks for the website. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Criticisms/Comments please.
On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Maciej Marchlewski wrote: Dnia 10-07-2002 o godz. 6:17 Ayash Kanto Mukherjee napisal(a): [...] I am sorry for the inconvinience. Nothing to worry. I was just a little surprised when I used the ling you've sent. But it's very common lately that people put wrong url or don't give them at all so I took it with understanding. Thanks a lot for your understanding. For the photos - many of them are really nice. Oh really. I am overjoyed. I allways enjoy looking at the pictures that show diffrent cultures and yours are also composed. It seems that you have a good eye for the street reportage. Well (shy)! many thanks for appreciation (shy again). Only thing that bothered is the image quality. It would help the photos a lot if they would be sharper when viewing as large. If I recall correctly you had some problems when scanning them so this is probably that. You are precisely correct. I scanned the negetives at 100 dpi only. I did it deliberately to reduce the file size as much as possible because the space available for me is only 50 MB in that website. Theese photos are IMO worth of having them scanned neatly and showing large. Could you please tell me at what dpi should I scan the negetives? Many thanks for your comments and criticisms. I think that I am getting some way. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Pentax MX
On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Alan Chan wrote: 3. If the power of your eye has not changed for the past 8 years or more, please think of undergoing a lasic surgery which will reduce the power of your eyes to 0 precisely. I don't know about that. I have heard too many stories on this surgery. regards, Alan Chan Stories? I am surprised because in a third world country like India, people are undergoing lasic surgery. Even one of my institute student underwent lasic surgery just a week ago. He was wearing thick eyeglasses of power +8 dioptre. Now he is able to see precisely without any eyeglasses. The only trouble in lasic surgery is that you can not allow the eye to come in contact with water by any chance for 6 months after the surgery and this is awful because you can not pour water on your head while bathing or you can not pour water on your eyes for flushing if some dust particle enters. In one way, you can say that you have to keep glasses of 0 dioptre for 6 months even after surgery. And photgraphy? No way. Forget it for 6 months. For a serious photographer, this is a blow to the chest. However, you can suffer that blow if you have patience for 6 months. So, the best option that I think can relieve a bespectacled photographer who is not interested to change the dioptre of camera eyepiece, is to wear contact lens. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Pentax MX
John Coyle wrote: IMHO, it's unrealistic to criticise the LED brightness in these circumstances - if they were bright enough to see in full sunlight, you'd be blinded by them at night! The display in the Z-1p viewfinder dims brightens depending on the light meter reading. Quite a nice feature. This is quite obvious in case of any SLR camera. If you point the camera to a bright seen, obviously the viewfinder will look bright and hence the light meter reading will suggest for higher shutter speeds for a particular aperture with respect to a predominantly dark scene whence the viewfinder will appear dim. The light meter will correspond for low shutter speeds in the case of dimly lit scenes for a particular aperture. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Always at the ready - OT
I use to carry my camera bag containing two SLR bodies, and three lenses, viz., 35-80 f/4-5.6, 100-300 f/4.5-5.6 and 24 f/2.8, a polarizer, red, yellow, green, orange filters. I load one body with ILFORD 100 ASA uprated to 200 ASA and the other body contains a slide film, Fujichrome Sensia II 100 ASA. Yes, the set up is quite heavy but I don't mind the weight but this is not on dialy basis because I am a weekend photographer. So, in that sense, it does not answer your questions. I just shared whatever I felt. With regards, Ayash. On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Francis Alviar wrote: Hello to all, How many of you guys bring your camera equipment to work if you have a primary means of employment and photography is your hobby? And also how much gear do you carry? I've been carrying a small camera bag to work with an extra lens on almost a daily basis just in case the photo opportunity show up. Ever since I took hold of my MX with the three lenses I've substituted bringing that to work instead. It's quite a big bag. I'm just wondering if it's overkill or what. Never hurts to be prepared for anything. Thanks. Francis Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: How do you beat the blahs?
On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Patrick White wrote: Anyone else ever had a similar bout of the blahs? What did you do to beat the blahs? Yes, sometimes I feel that way, blahs. I usually surf the net to watch photographs made by other photographers. Sometimes it gives a lot of ideas which I can use with some modifications in the future photographic ventures. This cheers me a lot. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Pentax MX
On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Chris Brogden wrote: On Wed, 10 Jul 2002, Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: 3. If the power of your eye has not changed for the past 8 years or more, please think of undergoing a lasic surgery which will reduce the power of your eyes to 0 precisely. Not as it stands now! There are still too many problems with the surgery for my liking, and what little data there is about how the surgery affects you in the long term is not too pleasant. I'll wait for the technology to mature, which may not be in my lifetime. Could you please let me know the nature of the after effect of that surgery? You may reply off the list if you wish. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Overexposing slide film (MZ-M)
Hallo all! Continuing the thread, I digged out the slides that I shot using my MZ-M. The exposure seems quite accurate. However, in two cases, it overexposed the frame. This is happening probably because 2-segment multipattern metering is close to centerweighted metering. To check this point out, I mounted the same lense on my Ricoh XR-8 Super body, which I purchased yesterday, and I found that centerweighed metering is exposing one stop less than 2-segment multipattern. Now, I can remember that I started a thread quite a year ago, titled, 2SMM: How it works?. There, somebody mentioned, (sorry, I can't remember the name), that this phenomenonal difference between 2-segment multipattern and centerweighted is natural. If that is so, how come I am getting correctly exposed slides in MZ-M? This is still a puzzle to me. Does this has anything to do with the lab processing the slides? Could anyone show some light? With kind regards, Ayash - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Criticisms/Comments please.
Hi gang! Recently, Joe (Joseph Tainter) responded me privately and he reported that it needed membership to open the webpage that I have mentioned in my earlier mail. This is quite surprising as all of my friends and relatives were able to view the webpage without any problem. In that case, please follow the following procedure to open the desired webpage: Step 1: Please open the website http://photojo.com/ Step 2: Please type Khalishani (quotes not included) at the search text box. On doing this, a new webpage will come up with my album On listed in it. Step 3: Please click on the album thumbnail which shows the first photographs of the album. I am sorry for the inconvinience. Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Long exposure guess
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote: Ayash wrote, regarding my tale of my previous life: And, what do you mean by that? Please explain. Hi Ayash, It was a ~joke~ that shows what a silly question the professor appeared to have asked. Jokes about professors in graduate school are kind of like jokes about bosses and management in industry. Sorry if I didn't clearly indicate that, or if you took it as an offense. Certainly no offense meant. Jokes aren't usually funny when they have to be explained, but I'll try to explain anyway, since you asked ~Of course~ there's a third, fourth, fifth, ..., day in the July calendar. Doesn't matter whether you're looking at the calendar in the US, or in India, or in Antarctica. I suppose it was funny because the way this young professor asked the question, it ~sounded~ as though he was unaware that the rest of the world counts days just the same as the US counts days. Naturally, his real question was not whether there is a fourth calendar day in July in India (the graduate student's country of origin). His real question was actually whether there is a national holiday in India in which citizens celebrate national sovereignty. Yes, there are is a day like that. It is 26th of January. Sadly enough, we no more think that we can enjoy this day because of the massive earthquake that took place last year in the state of Gujrat at the very same day last year. It took many innocent lives and massacred many towns and villages. He certainly realized that such a day probably did not take place on the fourth day of each July, but that's not how the question came out of his mouth. So it was funny. Gopal (the graduate student) thought the question was hilarious, and this was actually one of my and Gopal's favorite stories from our days together working for this particular professor. I haven't seen Gopal in many years now -- I think he went back to India. Very sorry. I couldn't understand it in the first chance and it required such a long explaination. By the way, I can check Gopal out if he is in my institute. He shall be a faculty member now. What do you think? What is his full name? It will help me a lot in locating him if he is really in my institute. OK, now I owe you a better (hopefully) story. Let's go back to the same laboratory of the same professor. One hot summer day in this lab, one of the vacuum pumps stopped working because an AC electric motor driving the pump failed. We needed to repair the pump quickly, but that would take too much time. I made the apparently bold suggestion that we could get a replacement motor much more quickly, then I'd install the motor myself. The professor would have to pay for this motor (perhaps US $250) out of his research grant, and since he really didn't have any mechanical aptitude himself, he didn't know if we'd run into any unexpected problems. He reluctantly agreed to purchase the motor, and then in the most whining and pathetic tone of voice, he suggested: Why don't you look in the pump manual and see if it says if the repair will be hard. He returned a short while later to see what I had found by reading the manual. I replied: Don't worry. The manual said that the repair will be tedious, but it won't be hard. Haa haa haa haa... I liked it a lot. Hope the explanation helps. Absolutely. Without any doubt. Many thanks for spending time for me. I guess I won't quit my day job and become a comedian just yet. ;-) :-)) Cheers, Bill Peifer Rochester, NY Cheers, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax - New Directions (now getting longer)
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 7/9/2002 3:37:47 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: He also praises the all-mode DOF, saying This is an improvement over the PZ1-P and ZX-5n, which allow a stop-down preview only in the aperture priority and manual modes. Don't they both allow DOF preview in all modes? You're half right. The PZ-1(p) only allow stop-down preview when the aperture is set with the aperture ring, but the ZX-5n will do it in all modes. ERNR Yes, this is because the DOF of PZ-1P works mechanically whereas it is electronic in the case of ZX-5N. Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Enabled for a second body
Hallo all! At last I made it for the second body. I wanted to have the following features. 1) Mechanical shutter 2) DOF preview. 3) Mulitple exposure capability. 3) Manual film advance and rewind. 4) Flash synchronizaton socket besides hot shoe. 5) Centerweighted average metering. 6) Viewfinder eyepiece magnification 0.84X atleast. 6) Pentaprism viewfinder. Sorry! I didn't went for PENTAX this time. Instead, I got a new RICOH XR-8 SUPER. It is a workhorse and it has all the features that I desired. The weight is good, 485 gms., however, its height is not large enough to completely cover the width of my palm. That is a drawback but I have to live with it. (I have attached a battery pack in my MZ-M and improves the grip a lot.) Do, any of you, besides Yoshihiki, have used this body before? Yoshihiko, are you out there? Please don't hesitate to send positive/negetive comments. I know that most of you won't be angry on me as I didn't went for PENTAX. With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax - New Directions
Hi Bob! Could you please let me know the price of L/6, both grey market and list prices? Thanks in advance. With kind regards, Ayash. On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: Hi Gang, Over the weekend, I was doing some heavy duty pondering (ponder,ponder...). The new L/6 is an very well specified camera with an extremely low price. It's specifications exceed those within it price bracket and match or exceed those of other costing much more. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax - New Directions
On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 2:11 PM Subject: Re: Pentax - New Directions Hi Bob! Could you please let me know the price of L/6, both grey market and list prices? Thanks in advance. With kind regards, Ayash. The current price at BH is 249.00 US. Bob Many Thanks, Bob. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
A few photographs.
Hi All! I have recently scanned some photographs which I took during a picnic at Sangam and Mekadatu which are located in the state of Karnataka, India. The rocky areas in the photographs is Mekadatu and it is located 5 km away from Sangam. Here is the website where you can view the photographs. http://photojo.com/galleries/SharedAlbumPage.asp?album_id=4073 I have scanned it at very low resolution so please don't try to enlarge it while viewing. Any comments/criticisms are welcomed. Thank you. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Max. # of B/W film.
Hi all! I have currently shot 2 rolls of Black and white films (Kodak Academy 200 ASA); one was uprated to 400 ASA and the other as such. Presently, Ilford PAN 100 uprated to 200 ASA is in my camera. I have a 300 ml negetive developing tank in which two rolls of film can be simultaneously developed. I shall like to know the maximum number of B/W films that can be developed with one batch of developer. I generally use Kodak D-76 developer at 1:1 dilution. Thanks is advance. With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
Hallo Bob! From your reply it seems to me that there is no limit to the number of films for batch processing. Do you mean that I can develop as many number of films as I wish provided that the two films in my developing tank is totally covered by the developer? Well, as far as I think, the developer will get used up more and more as I go on using the same solution so a time will come when the strength of the developer will not be enough to carry on the chemical action. Or it may happen like this. I have to allow longer time for developement if I am using the same solution for more than four rolls. Please correct me, if I am incorrect? Let me frame the question in a more precise manner. Can I use the same devoloper at 1:1 dilution for developing four rolls of black and white film in a developing tank which accepts only two rolls at a time? Do you suggest some other dilution or no dilution? Thanks for your comments. With kind regards, Ayash. On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: As long as the developer covers the film, you will not have any trouble. If you are using a rotary processor (JOBO) use more developer. In the past, I have developed up to 3 rolls in a 4 roll tank and the result is the same as if I had done them one at a time. The important thing, during agitation, more uniform results will be obtained if the developer completely uncovers the film. Otherwise, the top roll may receive non-uniform development. FWIW. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 5:34 AM Subject: Max. # of B/W film. Hi all! I have currently shot 2 rolls of Black and white films (Kodak Academy 200 ASA); one was uprated to 400 ASA and the other as such. Presently, Ilford PAN 100 uprated to 200 ASA is in my camera. I have a 300 ml negetive developing tank in which two rolls of film can be simultaneously developed. I shall like to know the maximum number of B/W films that can be developed with one batch of developer. I generally use Kodak D-76 developer at 1:1 dilution. You need at least 100ml of stock D-76 per 36 exposure/ 120 film. Since you are uprating the film (there is no such thing, BTW), you probably don't want to use the developer 1:1. William Robb Can I use that stock solution further for say another roll of 36 exposure film? From your reply, it seems that the answer is no. Sorry, I could not get the second sentence of your reply. Could you please explain a bit further, if it is not annoying? I shall like to know one more thing. Suppose I am using films without uprating and all the films are of identical speeds. Now there is a term called Batch Processing where more than one films are developed in one go. Now suppose that I have 4 rolls of films to be processed. Suppose I am using a negetive developing tank which can accept 2 rolls of film at once. In Batch Processing, am I supposed to change the developer solution with fresh solution after processing 2 rolls or shall I continue using the same developer solution? With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
Hi Bob! After reading the comments/advice of you and many other PDMLers I have decided not to reuse 1:1 D76 for processing more number of films than indicated. Thanks for your advice. With kind regards, Ayash. On Thu, 4 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: D76 1:1 works very wellbut one shot only. Do not reuse and do not use in rotary equipment that specify less solution that would be required to completely cover the film when the tank is upright. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: What you called uprating is one of my pet peeves. The generic term is actually pushing the film, and it causes a loss of shadow detail and an increase in contrast. If you are shooting in very flat light, it is not so bad, but often, the environment that pushed film finds itself being used in is high contrast stuff, such as night street photography. aah! Now I can see. If I uprate/push a 400 ASA B/W film to 1600 ASA, shall I be able to see grains appearing in the negetive/4 inch by 6 inch sized prints? I have never tried it, so I don't know. I would use the developer once and discard it, on general principles. Stay with the rule of thumb (for D-76, anyway) which is minimum 100ml of stock solution per roll of film, and discard after use. William Robb Yep! I won't do any kind of jugglery this time which may end to ruined negetives. Thanks for your advice. With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: shooting fireworks
Yep! I have tried it and it works great. Try some long exposures; astonishing results. - Ayash. On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote: Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800 instead? Thanks, Amita - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hallo Bill! The front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than a 50 mm f/4 lens. (Am I correct?) Therefore the preliminary amount of light energy reaching an imaginary plane or film behind the lens per unit time per unit area is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens as it has a smaller front element. When it is stopped down to f/4, the amount of light reaching the film plane is more than 50 mm f/4 lens. The above explanation depends only on one point that the front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than 50 mm f/4 lens, if it is at all correct. However, you are absolutely right that f/4 is still f/4 or in other words, the diameter of the aperture at f/4 is identical in both the cases and therefore, the light has to pass through the holes of identical diameters but what I mean to say is that the intensity of light in 50 mm f/1.4 lens is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens. Please correct me, if I am wrong anywhere. Many thanks for your comments. With best regards, Ayash Kanto. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bill D. Casselberry wrote: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers. Suppose you have two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If, I stop down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster shutter speed for correct exposure? I feel that second lens has more light gathering power therefore it will give high shutter speed. Am I correct? No - they'd be the same since f4 is f4 no matter the lens, etc. It is possible that one may have some indistinguishable difference due to light transmission efficieny, but it is doubtful that it would be significant enough to register except using extremely small latitude emulsions. I suspect no auto exposure camera system would be sensitive enough to detect this and change the shutter speed. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hallo Yves! Just a few minutes ago, I replied to Bill. You are absolutely right in your point. I know that quite well. The f-number is defined as the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the aperture (Am I correct?). But I am talking about the preliminary intensity of light reaching the film plane because of the wider diameter of the front element in the case of 50 mm f/1.4. Your reply is of course comprehensible. Many thanks for your reply. With best regards, Ayash On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Yves Caudano wrote: At 20:56 1/7/02 +0530, you wrote: I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers. Suppose you have two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If, I stop down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster shutter speed for correct exposure? The correct exposure will be obtained with the same shutter speed for both lenses. Actually, that same shutter speed should even give the correct exposure for any lens [*]. This is because f-stops are defined so that this property holds. As a result, for identical f-stops, the actual diameter of the diaphragm will depend on the focal length and the lens design. To go back to your comparison between the two 50 mm lenses, I expect the optical quality of the F1.4 lens to be better at f4 than the F4 lens, though (since you are not pushing your lens to its limits, especially regarding vignetting). [*] assuming infinity focus and (as mentioned earlier by Bill Casselberry) negligible transmission losses. Hope this helps (and is comprehensible), Yves - Dr. Yves Caudano Laboratoire LASMOS Département de Physique Facultés Universitaires Notre-Dame de la Paix 61 Rue de Bruxelles B-5000 Namur Belgium [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel : + 32 (0)81 72 5487 fax : 4707 URL : http://www.scf.fundp.ac.be/~ycaudano/ Lasmos laboratory URL : http://www.fundp.ac.be/sciences/physique/lasmos/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hi Yves! Your explanation is absolutely clear to me. So, it is the diaphragm which blocks of the extra amount of light collected by lenses with bigger front element. Yeah! I liked the pinch of salt. I am very much thankful to you and Bill. Now, I am in a position to arrive at the second stage of the drama. I was watching world cup football on TV and there I saw that all the photographers are equipped with small f-number lenses, seemed to be 300 mm f/2.8 kind. They must be shooting at shutter speed of 1/125 th of second in order to stop the action. Now the light in an artificially illuminated stadium is too low. The solution to the problem is to use a fast film and a steady tripod since the focal length is too large to hand hold the set-up. I shall like to know what aperture do they use with what film speed? Do they use those big lenses to take an advantage of f/2.8 or do they always shoot at wide open apertures? (I don't think so as the photographs appear quite sharp with good depth of field (3 m) in the sports magazine) I can put the question in another manner. Suppose I have a 300 mm f/5.6 lens. What film speed should I use in order to stop the action as well as attaining good depth of focus (say, 4 m) in an artificially illuminated stadium? I apologize for this kind of complicated question. I am just inquisitive, that's all. Many thanks for explanation. It cleared a lot of doubts. With best regards, Ayash. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Yves Caudano wrote: At 23:11 1/7/02 +0530, you wrote: Hi again! You probably sent this mail before receiving my previous answer: I hope this will clarify it anyway. The front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than a 50 mm f/4 lens. (Am I correct?) Yes Therefore the preliminary amount of light energy reaching an imaginary plane or film behind the lens per unit time per unit area is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens as it has a smaller front element. If the diaphragm is wide open, yes. No, if both lenses are set to the same f-stop. When it is stopped down to f/4, the amount of light reaching the film plane is more than 50 mm f/4 lens. No, because you will close down the diaphragm of the F1.4 lens so that the same amount of ligth will arrive on the film than with the F4 lens with its diaphragm wide open. The additional, outer rays, allowed by the larger front elements of the F1.4 lens are blocked by the diaphragm, so that, eventually, the same amount of light reaches the film. The above explanation depends only on one point that the front element of a 50 mm f/1.4 lens has bigger diameter than 50 mm f/4 lens, if it is at all correct. It depends also on the size of the diaphragm. However, you are absolutely right that f/4 is still f/4 or in other words, the diameter of the aperture at f/4 is identical in both the cases and As a said in my previous mail, the diameter of the aperture at f4 may vary between lenses (especially of different focal length). However, the amount of light reaching the film at f4 is identical from lens to lens (by definition of f-stops, and this is why they are useful!). therefore, the light has to pass through the holes of identical diameters but what I mean to say is that the intensity of light in 50 mm f/1.4 lens is more than a 50 mm f/4 lens. I am writing the following quickly, so take it with a pinch of salt: if the F1.4 has the same design than the f4 lens and just has larger front elements, I indeed would guess that the diaphragm opening of the F1.4 lens at F4 should be the same than the size of the diaphragm of the F4 lens wide open. In other words, I expect that, in that *particular* case, the diaphragm of both lens would have the same diameter when the same amount of light reaches the film. I may be wrong though. However, this would be definitely true for a very simple lens consisting of a single element: in that case, the amount of light reaching the film depends only on the diaphragm size and not on the (larger) lens diameter, since the diaphragm blocks all the outer rays and lets only the rays coming from the lens center in. Closing the diaphragm behind a large lens is then equivalent to take a lens with a smaller diameter. Many thanks for your comments. You are welcome. Yves - Dr. Yves Caudano Laboratoire LASMOS Département de Physique Facultés Universitaires Notre-Dame de la Paix 61 Rue de Bruxelles B-5000 Namur Belgium [EMAIL PROTECTED] tel : + 32 (0)81 72 5487 fax : 4707 URL : http://www.scf.fundp.ac.be/~ycaudano/ Lasmos laboratory URL : http://www.fundp.ac.be/sciences/physique/lasmos/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss
Re: Which Manual Zoom?
Hi! I think that 28-135 mm f/4 is the best option because of the range focal length one gets and also the maximum aperture do not change when the lens is zoomed in. This is great advantage. Why? Because, this lens can be used with automatic flash units because one can set the aperture precisely in any focal length. Please notice that the maximum aperture changes in the case of A28-80mm f/3.5-4.5 and therefore flash photography becomes difficult since you never know the aperture when the lens focal length is set between 28 and 80 mm. Hope it helps. - Ayash. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Robert Woerner wrote: What are opinions on the following possibilities? A 28-80 f3.5/4.5 A 28--135 f4.0 A 35-105 f3.5 A 35-70 f4.0 K 45-125 f4.0 What is the best? What to avoid, etc? Other suggestions?? Thanks for any input. Robert - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hi! I understand your point quite well now. I liked the term funneled down that you used in your explanation. Many thanks, Bill. With best regards, Ayash. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bill D. Casselberry wrote: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: You are absolutely right in your point. I know that quite well. The f-number is defined as the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the aperture (Am I correct?). Yep - so the light-gathering of the bigger front element will get funneled down to the same as the f4 when stopped down to f4 But I am talking about the preliminary intensity of light reaching the film plane because of the wider diameter of the front element in the case of 50 mm f/1.4. The intensity of the source doesn't enter into things. Unless it differs between the time you use the f1.4 and the time you use the f4, an autometering system will give the same shutter speed at any given f-stop. Things do look brighter in the viewfinder w/ the f1.4, but when stopped down this disappears. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Advantage of small f/number!
Hi! It is quite an informative email. I never knew the details of the lighting in a stadium until I recieved your mail. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Bob Walkden wrote: Hi, According to Michael Freeman in his book Light all stadiums that have TV coverage use multi-vapour lamps, because these produce a colour quality close to normal daylight. He suggests that for ISO 400 film at 1/60 or 1/125 you will need an aperture of f/2.8. So, it means that 400 ISO film is not enough. One has to use atleast 1600 ISO film provided that the lens in use is 300 mm f/5.6. So to achieve a depth of field of 4m your film needs to be rated at 12,800. I am shattered. However, most of the photographers are probably using digital cameras, so these calculations may not apply. For example, a nominal 300mm lens is effectively longer than that, and the f-stop ratio is changed, so there may be more depth-of-field than I've indicated. These numbers are for 35mm. Aah! those DIGI-guys are always at an advantage but I don't want to go DIGI. Many thanks for your comment. With best regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hi Joe! So, you mean that professional photographer are shooting all the time at f/2.8 and hence they possess those lenses becuase they really need that aperture only. Yes, you are right that a monopod will make the life much easier under such situation. Many thanks for your helpful comments. With best regards, Ayash. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Joseph Tainter wrote: In regard to shooting a teletphoto lens in a stadium. I would recommend investing in a monopod to steady your shots. With a monopod you can gain 1 or 2 EV over hand-held. For example, a 300 mm. lens should be shot at 1/350. With the monopod, you might go to 1/180 or even 1/90. If the professional photographer with an f2.8 lens shoots 1/350 at f2.8, you could shoot 1/90 at f5.6 and save a great deal of money (that is, by buying an f5.6 lens rather than one that opens to f2.8). Joe - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Advantage of small f/number!
Hi Giafranco! I visited the websites that you have mentioned and can understand the position from where you took the shot. I was suspecting from the beginning that it should be some sort of hilltop because the skycrappers in your photograph look small but I never knew that there is castle with rich history. A great view as if you are on the top of the world and can see rest of the world. I can feel the sensation when somebody goes at such a place. As far as the 50 mm lens problem is concerned, I have understood well now. So, I won't feel much sorry, if I don't have a small f-number lens. Or should I feel sorry? Am I missing something? Thank you so much for such a nice and informative reply. With best regards, Ayash. On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, Gianfranco Irlanda wrote: Hi Ayash, I took the picture from one of the windows of Castel Sant'Elmo, which is one of the four castles of Naples, the only one built on the hill. Built during the 16th Century on the site of a former, smaller, castle, Castel Sant'Elmo became a prison in the 18th Century until the 1952. It is now a museum and there is kept the photographic archive of the Cultural Superintendence of Naples. You can see many pictures of the castle at: http://progetti.webscuola.it/progetti2000/790/CastelSantElmo.html Too bad the page is in Italian only, but you can clearly see the vault windows I took the picture from. There's a nice but small picture at: http://www.medcruise.com/napo/f01_napo.html The castle is the higher building on the background. The view I took is from the right side (facing NE). I have some doubts regarding lenses with small f-numbers. Suppose you have two lenses, one is 50 mm f/4 and the other is 50 mm f/1.4. If, I stop down the second lens to f/4, which one will give faster shutter speed for correct exposure? The speed will be the same, if you don't change anything: if you compare f/4 of both lenses you'll see that the area enclosed into the diaphragm of the stopped down f/1.4 lens is the same of the aperture of the f/4 lens wide open. Ciao, Gianfranco = Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: PUG Gallery - February 2002 available
On Thu, 31 Jan 2002, Richard Seaman wrote: Adelheid, I think Paul Jones' Rain photo might have got corrupted by the comptuer. On my screen it's got some strange artifacts in it. Richard. home page: www.richard-seaman.com Same has happened with me also. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Horrors!
A heart attack for me. - Ayash. On Tue, 29 Jan 2002, Mike Johnston wrote: Re: Somewhat amusing I guess it would help if I told you what the page was.. http://www.hermes.net.au/bayling/repair.html SACRILEGE!!! And at the very least, he should be wearing safety goggles. Yellowed lenses are certainly still fine for black-and-white. One shouldn't shoot color film through this lens anyway. -- Mike Ain't photography grand. The more you know the less you know. (Shel Belinkoff) * * * Find out about Mike Johnston's unique photography newsletter, The 37th Frame, at http://www.37thframe.com. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
FA 28-105 mm f/4-5.6
Hallo all! According to Boz's K-mount page, PENTAX produces two FA lenses in the range 28-105mm f/4-5.6 One has power zoom option and the other one has IF (Internal Focussing). Boz has also stated that the one with IF is possibly fabricated by Tamron wth genuine PENTAX electroncs and SMC coating. How does the optical performance of the one with IF compares with the one with Power Zoom? Inquisitive. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FA 28-105 mm f/4-5.6
Hallo John! Thanks for your views. I still have a small question, if you don't mind. The one with IF has 15 elements in 12 groups while the one with power zoom has 13 elements with 11 groups. Don't you think that the IF one could have closer optical performance to its power zoom counterpart if not equal? Have you compared the two lenses side by side? Just inquisitive. I apologise beforehand if I am disturbing you. With regards, Ayash. On Sun, 27 Jan 2002, John Glover wrote: No question, the old power zoom is a much better lens. One of the best in its class. - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 10:15 PM Subject: FA 28-105 mm f/4-5.6 Hallo all! According to Boz's K-mount page, PENTAX produces two FA lenses in the range 28-105mm f/4-5.6 One has power zoom option and the other one has IF (Internal Focussing). Boz has also stated that the one with IF is possibly fabricated by Tamron wth genuine PENTAX electroncs and SMC coating. How does the optical performance of the one with IF compares with the one with Power Zoom? Inquisitive. - Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FA 28-105 mm f/4-5.6
Thank you so much for your reply. With regards, Ayash. On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, John Glover wrote: Not exactly side by side, but I did own the Tamron lens, which was the same without the SMC and electronics. It was a good lens, but I found the performance of the Pentax PZ to be a bit better, more contrast and better color. That may have been due to the SMC coatings, but overall, I was happier with the old PZ version. however, the Tamron is a very nice and compact lens, as well as quite light when compared to the Pentax PZ lens. - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 12:23 AM Subject: Re: FA 28-105 mm f/4-5.6 Hallo John! Thanks for your views. I still have a small question, if you don't mind. The one with IF has 15 elements in 12 groups while the one with power zoom has 13 elements with 11 groups. Don't you think that the IF one could have closer optical performance to its power zoom counterpart if not equal? Have you compared the two lenses side by side? Just inquisitive. I apologise beforehand if I am disturbing you. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro question...
Hallo Timothy! The focussing plane of a non-macro lens is not flat, it is spherical (if spherical glass elementsa are used). Therefore, if you keep the center at focus,the corner will go out of focus and if you keep the corner in focus, the center will go out of focus, in general. Our eyes can not see that happening because the radius of 'circle of confusion' which creates the image is much smaller than the resolution of our eye. However, Stopping down increases the depth of field and you got good results at f/8 with the TC on. Now, when you are using the extension tubes, the depth of field is affected more. How much?? Well, the answer to this question is a nomogram that I have scanned from a book on Macro photography which gives the depth of field when a certain length of extension is added to the 50 mm focal length lens. I can not send that nomogram as an attachment file as most of the pdml members will object. Therefore, I shall send you only in a separate mail. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ayash. On Wed, 23 Jan 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote: Hello all... Now for the question: I get good results with the M50/4 Macro and great results with the Vivitar TC + A50/1.4, but something strange is happening with the tubes. I'm using the 20mm tube with the A50/1.4 to get ~1/2x (actually 0.4x) and I cannot get the subject entirely into focus! When the center is in focus, the corners are soft and when the corners are in focus, the center is soft. I can stop down to f22 and use the DOF preview and everything looks good, but that really isn't a fair comparison with the other setups, is it. I don't see the same problem using the other equipment. So what is it about the tubes? Are there some obscure laws of physics at work here? t - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Manual Extension Tubes!
Hi! I have borrowed a 50 mm f/1.7 M-series from my friend. I want to use some manual extension tubes with it to try out some macro shots. Can anybody please tell me, how to do the metering before taking the shot? I am a user of MZ-M. And above all I want to know whether the use of manual extension tube hurt my camera? Thanks in advance. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Manual Extension Tubes!
Thanks Brendan for assuring me that the camera won't be hurt. As far as I can remember, you also possess an MZ-M. Cheers, Ayash. On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Brendan wrote: The MZ-M will be fine with it. --- Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi! I have borrowed a 50 mm f/1.7 M-series from my friend. I want to use some manual extension tubes with it to try out some macro shots. Can anybody please tell me, how to do the metering before taking the shot? I am a user of MZ-M. And above all I want to know whether the use of manual extension tube hurt my camera? Thanks in advance. With regards, Ayash. - __ Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Manual Extension Tubes!
Hi William! I didn't realized that it is that easy. These manual extension tubes are metallic hollow tubes with K-type bayonet male at one end and female at other end. I didn't noticed any aperture linkage at all. The tubes are meant for extending the lens from the body, that's all. I have to test the procedure that you have mentioned for making an exposure. Many thanks. With regards, Ayash. On Mon, 21 Jan 2002, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote: Hi Ayash, I'm assuming that your extension tubes have the linkage for open-aperture metering, but that they will ~not~ transmit the position of the lens aperture ring to the body. If this is the case, then the LCD display will show -- for the aperture setting of the lens. Even if this is not the case, I think the following advice will be correct. First, set your camera to aperture priority and the lens aperture ring to wide open. Your meter on the MZ-M will then show the correct shutter speed for an exposure at f/1.7. If you want to shoot your subject at f/1.7, then the shutter speed that the body just determined is correct. Start shooting! However, if you want to shoot your subject at a slower aperture (e.g., f/11), then you will need to stop down the lens and make a longer exposure. This is probably best done by switching to manual mode. For instance, 1/250 sec at f/1.7 becomes 1/8 sec at f/11. That is, five-stop ~longer~ shutter speed and five-stop ~slower~ aperture. Hope this helps, Bill Peifer Rochester, NY -Original Message- From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:58 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject:Manual Extension Tubes! Hi! I have borrowed a 50 mm f/1.7 M-series from my friend. I want to use some manual extension tubes with it to try out some macro shots. Can anybody please tell me, how to do the metering before taking the shot? I am a user of MZ-M. And above all I want to know whether the use of manual extension tube hurt my camera? Thanks in advance. With regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
Hi Patrick! It seems to me that you quite lot of experience with Macrophotography of insects (I have not yet started. Ahhh! that close up kit; I want to kick it off) and I think that it would be helpful in the near future when I you can see me chasing the insects with the macro lens on my camera. Thanks for sharing your wonderful experience especially with dragon flies and jumping spiders. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Patrick White wrote: I've done 1:1 shots of dragonflies using a 100mm on extension. Much easier to use the 200mm though, but even then, you need to stalk them a bit. 1:1 shots of ladybugs are also pretty easy unless they are wandering around looking for food (they are fast-crawling insects). 7:1's of non-flying aphids are even easier (pluck the leaf and take 'em into the studio :-) 11.4 inches will be pleanty far enough provided you stay with the easier insects at first. However, try them all. You'll soon learn which ones you're good at stalking and which you need to get better before doing. I think my first 1:1 macro shot was of a housefly -- it was chilly, the sun was in the right direction and I'd had lots of practice stalking them from when I used to flick them with my fingers as a kid). Personally, I've found the hardest insects to get pictures of are jumping spiders and hoverflies (still haven't managed either). Hoverflies are just skittish beasts, but last summer I concluded that the working distance of a 200mm should be just workable for them (reasonable percentage of successful stalkings). Jumping spiders, on the other hand, are absolutely impossible for me. They have stunning vision for an insect. They get scared and run away when I get within about 3 ft (1m) of them and get scared and move way sooner than that. Hoverflies are downright easy in comparison. Oh, and dragonflies.. just require some stalking and spending some time finding their favorite lookout point. The ones with lookouts farthest from the water seem to be the easiest to shoot too (probably more tired or something). hope that helps, patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Rodger Whitlock wrote: If you are seriously interested, I direct you to the following Kodak publications: N12A: Close-Up Photography (essentially up to 3x lifesize) N12B: Photomacrography (3x to 50x lifesize) N16: combined hardback edition of N12A N12B These were first published around 1969; I do not know if they are still in print, but may be worth pursuing. I was lucky enough to find a second hand copy of N16. Hi! Glad to recieve your reply and I will try to get those books that you have referenced. Many thanks for that. After recieving so many feedbacks about various aspects of macrophotography, I think my insight towards this subject is getting clearer. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
So, there are ways out to problem like this, I mean; how to photograph dragonflies. Only experienced people can tell us solutions like this. Regards, Ayash Kanto. On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, John Mustarde wrote: On Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:15:26 -0800, you wrote: Oh, and dragonflies.. just require some stalking and spending some time finding their favorite lookout point. The ones with lookouts farthest from the water seem to be the easiest to shoot too (probably more tired or something). Dragonflies love flash. It's a bright light source that could possibly attract prey. Just fire the flash (use the test button) in the general vicinity of a dragonfly on its perch. It will either stay in position and motionless for several minutes, or move away then come back near the flash source fairly quickly. Most everything anyone needs to know about macro photography in the field is covered in Shaw's book called, I think, Closeups in Nature. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
Hi Dan! I shall be photographing mostly insects whose dimensions are less than 24mm by 36mm, therefore a 1:1 macro lens is essential for that. I have to choose which focal length. Shall I go for (90/100/105mm) or (180/200mm). Both have some advantages and disadvantages. Probably the degree of alien sensitivity of the insects will give me the idea what working distance shall I choose and that will tell me which focal length to choose. Regards, Ayash Kanto. On Tue, 26 Jun 2001, Dan Scott wrote: Hi Ayash, I have the FA 100/2.8 macro, which is 1:1, but I'm willing to bet that for the vast majority of my shots with it (mostly flowers and occassionally bugs) 1:2 would have been plenty. As you say, it depends on what you want to use the lens for. Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Tue, 26 Jun 2001, Jan van Wijk wrote: BTW: One advantage of the 100mm macro lenses is that they are a bit closer, allowing better coverage by a ring-light (flash). I sometimes find that the 200mm macro is too far away to use the AF-140C flash wich has a rather low guidenumber. Regards, JvW Therefore, 200mm Macro lens also have limitations as you pointed it out. I was not aware of this aspect of using 200 mm Macro lens. Thanks. Regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Jan van Wijk wrote: On Mon, 25 Jun 2001 14:18:43 +0530 (IST), Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: Suppose I need a longer working distance than 1 feet, then you should ask me to go for 200 mm Macro lens. In order to solve the problem in cheaply, suppose I use a teleconverter of 2x ratio. That will convert the present lens (100 mm MACRO) to 200 mm with a loss of two stops of aperture. What happens to the Macro magnification ratio? Does it remains 1:1 or it decreases. I think remains as it is. Any comments? Actualy, you will have a 200mm f/5.6 macro that way that goes upto 2:1 (NOT 1:2) (assume you start with 100mm f/2.8) 2:1!! Wooow! That's great. The focusing distance will stay the same, and you double the focal-length. The quality will decrease, edges and corners will suffer, probably some light fall-off too. I am not happy to hear that but what to do that is the truth. But it could be a good solution for some (well lit!) objects in the center of the image. Regards, JvW Many Thanks Jan. Again I should say, I learnt something new that a 2X teleconverter on 200 mm MACRO LENS (1:1) doubles the magnification ratio. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ayash, I have a A100/2.8 Macro which is just great. It goes 1:1, but I rarely use it that way. I took a butterfly at 1:1 last week. It looks like a monster!...bug eyes hairy feet. Amazing! you can those very fine hairs on the feet. More important, you should think about your working distance. A 50mm Macro works very close to the subject...like postage stamps. A 100mm Macro is more comfortable for me...usually 6-15 inches away. I would like to own a 200mm Macro to get even farther away. Aaah! that is quite costly but I like concept of increase working distance. Visit Mark Cassino's home page and see his photo galleries. http://www.markcassino.com Surely, I will do that. The macro photos of flowers and insects are outstanding. (The bird photos aren't too bad either!) Regards, Bob S. Many thanks for your reply. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Terence Mac Goff wrote: Hi. as someone who shoots a lot of macro stuff, I'd seriously recommend the Tamron 90/2.8, which is 1:1, and is a fabulous portrait lens to boot. The minimum focussing distance for this lens is 11.4 inch. Is it enough to take shots of butterflies, bees and other insects without scaring them away? Mark Casino has always used 200mm f/4 Macro to take shots of sensitive insects which has a minimum focussing distance of 18 inch. If you try to get any closer than that, what really happens with the insects, I don't know. What about Sigma 105 mm f/2.8 MACRO (1:1) in terms of optical quanlity? Any thoughts? Regards, Ayash Kanto. Its exceedingly sharp edge to edge, and has a 55mm front end, which fits most ring flashes out of the box. It comes in Manual and autofocus versions. Having had both, there is nothing between them in optical terms, but I have found that the manual focus lens required a decent focusing screen when you are in real close. However, I don't as a rule use ring flashes, as I have found it next to impossible to get a TTL unit to fit pentax here in Ireland at any sort of a reasonable price. I generally use two metz 45 bracket flashes on standard light clamps. Its ungainly, but works ok. it also requires a large degree of co-operation from the subject :) Hope this helps, T. At 14:18 25/06/2001 +0530, Ayash Kanto Mukherjee wrote: Hi Jon! You are absolutely correct. Therefore, the final decision is to go for a macro lens having magnification of 1:1. Yep, I need a long working distance of about 1 feet but not less than 10 inch so that a macro ring flash can be attached on the lens. A 100mm Macro lens will do that for me.But wait a minute, I have a question. Suppose I need a longer working distance than 1 feet, then you should ask me to go for 200 mm Macro lens. In order to solve the problem in cheaply, suppose I use a teleconverter of 2x ratio. That will convert the present lens (100 mm MACRO) to 200 mm with a loss of two stops of aperture. What happens to the Macro magnification ratio? Does it remains 1:1 or it decreases. I think remains as it is. Any comments? Cheers, Ayash Kanto. On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, Jon Hope wrote: 1:1, always. A 1:1 macro lens will do 1:2 on it's nose, but a 1:2 macro will only go to 1:1 with adapters of some sort. The real question regarding macro lenses is how much working distance you want, and therefore how much focal length you need. At 1:1 the working distance on a 50mm macro is a couple of inches from memory. It is roughly twice that for 100mm, and roughly twice that again for 200mm. The working distance is important for things that move, more than for things that don't. It is also easier to use a flash at longer working distances. I hope that helps a tad. Cheers Jon - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - Terence Mc Goff | [EMAIL PROTECTED] If its worth doing, Its worth Overdoing. John William Corrington, Shreveport, 1956. PLease report all problems and flames to mailto:/dev/null ... - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro lens: Some insight needed!
On Mon, 25 Jun 2001, petit miam wrote: --- Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Many thanks for your comments and views. I should keep my close-up filters aside in the corner of my darkroom and allow the dust to settle on it. N!! Why not? I want to know if you please. Jody (whose silent scream was probably heard in China) What is the thing about China why your silent scream would ever reach there? I am inquisitive now if you don't mind. Regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Macro lens: Some insight needed!
Hi! I have not yet purchased a real Macro lens for high detail macro work instead I am using close up filter kit to achieve magnification as great as 1:1. There are two basic problems that I encountered while using this kit. One is however, the depth of field is not enough for apertures like f/8. I have to stop down to f/16 and sometimes f/22 to get acceptable depth of field. A related problem is that the plane of focus is just one. A very slight motion of the hand is enough to throw the subject out of focus. Therefore, I always use tripod while doing macro photography. Yet there is another problem that persists and it is low shutter speed that I have to choose for an aperture of f/16, 22. Sometimes, it goes to as low as 1 second (I use 200 ASA speed films). In this time period, if the subject moves either intensionally or unintensionally (say, because of gentle wind), it is impossible to take a shot. Another problem that I face is poor colour rendition. Now, I have certain questions regarding a real Macro Lens, before purchasing it. It will be great if I can purchase a macro lens of magnification ratio of 1:1 but sometimes it is not possible. Macro lenses having magnification of 1:2 can be converted to 1:1 by including an adapter at its filter thread, e.g., Vivitar 100 mm f/3.5 Macro. How does a macro lens with 1:1 adapter on behaves with respect to an ordinary lens with close-up filter stacked on it as far as depth of field and colour rendition is concerned ? Do I have to go down to smaller apertures to achieve acceptable depth of field ? If yes, then there is virtually no difference in using a macro lens and an ordinary lens with close-up filters. Please note that low apertures demand low shutter speed and here is the problem. Any suggestion/comment (good/bad) will be greatly appreciated. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Ricoh XR-8 Super!
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Yoshihiko Takinami wrote: Hello Ayash, At 3 Jun 2001 10:25:20 +0530 (IST), Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote; Do any of you happen to possess this body or used it sometime? Please comment (good or bad) on this body. I have two. :^) They are really workhorses and have great price/performance ratios. I like them very much. They are reliable, compact in size, easy to handle. I like them very much. The only flaw would be their poor focusing screens. Hope this helps. -- Yoshihiko Takinami Osaka, Japan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hallo! I am very glad to recieve atleast one reply regarding this string. Your suggestion really helped me because I am planning to purchase that body. To be precise, I was quite determined to purchase Vivitar 3800N since it is very chip but many people objected to my decision and convinced me that the body is not at all rugged (quite delicate) and the performance is very poor. Now I have decided to go for the Ricoh body. I have already looked over the body in the shop, it sounded good. Many thanks. With best regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mr. Stoopid's Darkroom Triumph
On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Shel Belinkoff wrote: Mr. Stoopid would like to thank everyone who offered good ideas for preventing this foolish mistake from happening again, and for not making Mr. Stoopid feel too much like Mr. Sphincter. :-) Wish you all the best. Ayash K. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Learning To make a Photograph
Hi Shel! Many thanks for such a nice mail. I really liked your mail. In fact, many experienced photographers with whom I interacted told me exactly the same thing. Most of the time, I use metered manul mode in my camera but while making candid street photographs, I am forced to switch to aperture priority mode and let the camera take care of the exposure. Of course, I don't learn anything about exposure while making those photographs. (This is not a good quality being a photographer.) On the other hand, I concentrate only on the composition to catch the right moment. I think that I don't have the sense of understanding light and therefore I couldn't perform well, even in metered manual mode for candids. But I readily agree with you about the control of exposure in a photograph provided that the photographer has feel for light. With kind regards, Ayash K. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Multiple exposures
Yes, that is what exactly I want to know. Any suggestion/comment?? Regards, Ayash K. On Mon, 4 Jun 2001, Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote: Thanks for the precise explanations. just one more question: How do you determine how many exposures do you need to get it right? My guess is that, on that particular photo, one second exposures wouldn't be short enough to do the trick... - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Multiple exposures
On Sun, 3 Jun 2001, Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote: Cameron hood wrote, when describing his, by the way, gorgeous, submission for this month's PUG: Equipment: Pentax PZ-1p: 300mm F4.5 at F32; SMC 'Cloudy' filter; multi-exposure exposure of about 8 - 10 seconds total exposure I wonder what's the benefit of using multiple exposures for an image like his, and, more important, how do you decide when the situation calls for a multiple exposure technique? Can someone that's used to doing this kind of thing, or ,perhaps,s the Author himself, clarify this? Thanks, Eduardo. Well, I think whenever you have a subject which is moving and therefore fills different regions of the frame at different instants of time, you call for multiple exposure. However, in Camron Hood's submission, it is the water which is the only moving subject. This photograph can be created by a long exposure also but the only problem with that is that the dark coloured rocks will appear too bright destroying the contrast in the photograph. I also think that the light was too low while the snap was taken and the cloudy filter added up to the myterious nature of the photograph. I may be wrong but I shall be very happy if somebody tells me the truth. With best regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Ricoh XR-8 Super!
Hi all! Do any of you happen to possess this body or used it sometime? Please comment (good or bad) on this body. With best regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Trick for long exposures
On Tue, 29 May 2001, Patrick White wrote: I've used the same procedure. When the light meter in the K-1000 shut off for lack of light, I punted and used spot meter mode of my PZ-1p body as a light meter since it is more sensitive. Without it, I would have had to guess -- I probably would have picked the part of the scene I wanted to meter from and then moved close enough to get a reading off only it to use as a starting place. One thing I learned to be careful about with my K-1000 (and maybe others need to be as well?) is that down at the extreme end of the light meter range, the metering gets severely non-linear. When I'm close to that range, I always check the reading by making a one-stop change. If the needle deflects more than I expect a one-stop change to do, then I can't trust either reading. hope that helps, patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]) Hi! Many thanks for suggestion. Yes, it helped me. I didn't know that the lightmeter of K1000 also behaves nonlinearly under certain situation. With kind regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: More Cat Pics
Hi! That is a really big cat, oh! How much it could weigh, any idea?? I liked self_con.jpg. Some Alsesians are watching the cat passing by whereas a few of them have their attention diverted towards the lens but the third one from right seems to be a philospher. Neither the cat nor the photographer can divert his attention. A great picture. Cheers, Ayash Kanto. On Sat, 26 May 2001, Shel Belinkoff wrote: Self confidence in action: http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/self_con.jpg A really big cat: http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/bigcat.jpg - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: MZ-3/5N Multiple Exposure.
Hi! Ya, I have seen your earlier mail regarding multiple exposure. Even one of my friend should be the technique that you have mentioned with his MX body. Many thanks for advice. With regards, Ayash Kanto. On Sat, 26 May 2001, petit miam wrote: You can do it with any SLR camera that doesn't have auto-wind. See my earlier post. Jody. Hi! I think that I have to purchase a mechanical manual focus body with multiple exposure capability. Can you or anybody suggest some body (the chip the better) which has this capability? I know one: Vivitar V3800N, but some of my friends told me that the lightmeter is not linear though the body is quiet chip. Best regards, Ayash Kanto. __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Vivitar V3800N
Hi all! I just want to know whether anybody used this body. If yes, I have a question regarding its lightmeter. A friend of mine told me that the lightmeter of Vivitar body (He used V3000) behaves non-linear with respect to the film speed setting. For example, you are getting an exposure value of f/4 at 1/60 s at a film speed of 400. If the film speed is increased by two stops keeping the aperture constant, the shutter speed should also increase by 2 stopes, 1/250 s but in his camera body it light meter didn't behaved in this manner for high film speed values. This is the case with V3000 but what is the situation with V3800N. Is the story identicle? That is what I am interested to know. With best regards, Ayash Kanto. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
