OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread David J Brooks
Hey all.

I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
in it and still nothing.

Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
when needed.

Dave

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http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
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Re: OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread Underpaid N. Overpentaxed
If it has been sitting for so long, I would think letting it sit with
batteries inside for a while might be worth a try - perhaps something
is deeply discharged and needs a moment to come back up. Also, if you
have an external power supply for it or access to one, try hooking it
up to that. Failing that, is there a place that will give you a free
quote for the repair?
Cheers  hth
Ecke

2012/5/29 David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com:
 Hey all.

 I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
 back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
 weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
 still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
 working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
 in it and still nothing.

 Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
 wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
 buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
 when needed.

 Dave

 --
 Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
 www.caughtinmotion.com
 http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
 York Region, Ontario, Canada

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RE: OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread John Sessoms

From: David J Brooks


Hey all.

I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
in it and still nothing.

Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
when needed.

Dave


Is there anyone local you could take it to and get an estimate? 
Otherwise, how much would Nikon charge you for a repair estimate?


Usually the charge for the estimate applies to the final repair cost.

A quick look at KEH showed a BGN SB800 for $286 (USD), so anything 
less than that seems reasonable.


Strobes don't seem to respond well to long term non-use. Every problem 
I've ever had with a strobe came from not using it for a long time.


About the only thing I can think of that is worse for a strobe than 
leaving it on a shelf  not using it, is to leave batteries in it and 
not use it.


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Re: OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread Bruce Walker
Dave, here's a short list of my favourite generic Things That Can Go
Wrong, And Will:

bad or weak batteries
Triple-check that your test batteries are good. I suggest you use the
ones that just fired the working flash to give you better confidence.
Oh, and make sure they're inserted the right way around. :-)

dirty contacts
Clean *all* contact surfaces. Get some good multi-purpose
electrical/switch contact cleaner (eg from The Source), soak a cotton
swab and get at the battery contacts inside the flash. Also clean the
contacts on the batteries themselves. And the hotshoe ones while
you're at it.

something needs to be reset.
See if the flash has a reboot sequence or button.

SB800's are very popular and solid. Most likely worth fixing if not
too too expensive.


On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 10:05 AM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey all.

 I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
 back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
 weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
 still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
 working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
 in it and still nothing.

 Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
 wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
 buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
 when needed.

 Dave

 --
 Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
 www.caughtinmotion.com
 http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
 York Region, Ontario, Canada

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Re: OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread David J Brooks
On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 12:16 PM, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com wrote:
 Dave, here's a short list of my favourite generic Things That Can Go
 Wrong, And Will:

 bad or weak batteries
 Triple-check that your test batteries are good. I suggest you use the
 ones that just fired the working flash to give you better confidence.
 Oh, and make sure they're inserted the right way around. :-)

 dirty contacts
 Clean *all* contact surfaces. Get some good multi-purpose
 electrical/switch contact cleaner (eg from The Source), soak a cotton
 swab and get at the battery contacts inside the flash. Also clean the
 contacts on the batteries themselves. And the hotshoe ones while
 you're at it.

 something needs to be reset.
 See if the flash has a reboot sequence or button.

 SB800's are very popular and solid. Most likely worth fixing if not
 too too expensive.

Thanks for the responses.

After some fiddling, and a web search, i stumbled across a fellow with
my problem and he said it was his battery compartment door not seating
correctly. Well after cleaning the contacts and verifying batteries, i
decided to give the door a shot. I tried to turn it on after cleaning
and reinserting batteries with no response, then i just moved the door
1-2mm to the open position and bamo, (spell check for bamo is amoeba
btw) heard the motor engage. I then moved it back 1mm or so, and on it
came.

So now it appears to fire up but i need to play with the door. Same
thing now with my D1H, need to set a battery in, then pull it back out
a hair and the camera fires up,

Dave


 On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 10:05 AM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey all.

 I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
 back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
 weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
 still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
 working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
 in it and still nothing.

 Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
 wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
 buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
 when needed.

 Dave

 --
 Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
 www.caughtinmotion.com
 http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
 York Region, Ontario, Canada

 --
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Re: OT Flash question

2012-05-29 Thread Bruce Walker
Aha! The spring-metal contacts may have kind of sagged over time (much
like people :-) ) and flexing them out a bit may give better contact.
You might be able to hook the open end of them down in the bottom of
the battery compartment with a bent paperclip or similar. Tug upwards
gently to make them sit up higher.


On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 7:17 PM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 12:16 PM, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  Dave, here's a short list of my favourite generic Things That Can Go
  Wrong, And Will:
 
  bad or weak batteries
  Triple-check that your test batteries are good. I suggest you use the
  ones that just fired the working flash to give you better confidence.
  Oh, and make sure they're inserted the right way around. :-)
 
  dirty contacts
  Clean *all* contact surfaces. Get some good multi-purpose
  electrical/switch contact cleaner (eg from The Source), soak a cotton
  swab and get at the battery contacts inside the flash. Also clean the
  contacts on the batteries themselves. And the hotshoe ones while
  you're at it.
 
  something needs to be reset.
  See if the flash has a reboot sequence or button.
 
  SB800's are very popular and solid. Most likely worth fixing if not
  too too expensive.

 Thanks for the responses.

 After some fiddling, and a web search, i stumbled across a fellow with
 my problem and he said it was his battery compartment door not seating
 correctly. Well after cleaning the contacts and verifying batteries, i
 decided to give the door a shot. I tried to turn it on after cleaning
 and reinserting batteries with no response, then i just moved the door
 1-2mm to the open position and bamo, (spell check for bamo is amoeba
 btw) heard the motor engage. I then moved it back 1mm or so, and on it
 came.

 So now it appears to fire up but i need to play with the door. Same
 thing now with my D1H, need to set a battery in, then pull it back out
 a hair and the camera fires up,

 Dave
 
 
  On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 10:05 AM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  Hey all.
 
  I have two SB800 flashes, one bought new, one bought used, a few years
  back. The last time i used the used one, was at the three family
  weddings i shot in 2010 and both worked fine. The one i bought new is
  still working fine, however i went make sure the used one was still
  working today, and it was not.It would not turn on. I put fresh AA's
  in it and still nothing.
 
  Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what may be wrong, i have a
  wedding in Sept and if i need to get it fixed, if  makes sense or
  buy something else. I want a flash on each camera i have with me for
  when needed.
 
  Dave
 
  --
  Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
  www.caughtinmotion.com
  http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
  York Region, Ontario, Canada
 
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Flash Question - The Results

2009-11-05 Thread Ed Keeney
A few weeks back I had asked about using a flash at an event and
either a diffuser or bounce card.  I eventually went with the
Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer.

The event was last week.  As for the results, I think some of the
shots came out ok (my opinion).  The people who run the program were
very happy with what they received.

The venue was a hall with a vaulted ceiling - no bounce opportunities
there.  It was also a dark room - they kept the lights down to show
videos and slide shows from the season.  As for me, I tried using the
bounce and flash, but for the most part, I had trouble getting close
enough to utilize both.  I wound up shooting many of the shots with
the direct flash.

Here are two that I think work the best...

http://www.rbsa.us/RBSA_10_29_2009_017.jpg

http://www.rbsa.us/RBSA_10_29_2009_039.jpg

Thanks for everyone who offered their thoughts and ideas.
-- 
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question - The Results

2009-11-05 Thread Larry Colen
On Thu, Nov 05, 2009 at 01:46:42PM -0500, Ed Keeney wrote:
 A few weeks back I had asked about using a flash at an event and
 either a diffuser or bounce card.  I eventually went with the
 Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer.
 
 The event was last week.  As for the results, I think some of the
 shots came out ok (my opinion).  The people who run the program were
 very happy with what they received.
 
 The venue was a hall with a vaulted ceiling - no bounce opportunities
 there.  It was also a dark room - they kept the lights down to show
 videos and slide shows from the season.  As for me, I tried using the
 bounce and flash, but for the most part, I had trouble getting close
 enough to utilize both.  I wound up shooting many of the shots with
 the direct flash.
 
 Here are two that I think work the best...

Well done
 
 http://www.rbsa.us/RBSA_10_29_2009_017.jpg

Nothing to complain about with the lighting on that one.

 
 http://www.rbsa.us/RBSA_10_29_2009_039.jpg

Very interesting composition. I'd crop so that the hula hoop girl was
on the right edge, but by putting her in the center, it actually gives
it a tension with everything being over to the left side. 

 
 Thanks for everyone who offered their thoughts and ideas.
 -- 
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink
 
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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-28 Thread Ed Keeney
Just sending an update - I did a little recon and found that the
ceiling at the venue is vaulted and 20+ feet, too high for a standard
bounce.

I had checked the Vivitar 285HV and the voltage issue isn't an issue.

I debated on getting the Fong Dong thing, but the learning curve in a
short window...I'm not up to that task right now.

I wound up getting the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer (after debating on the
80/20).  I had a similar pocket bounce years ago.  I got a chance to
try it this past weekend at a family gathering and results are good -
I still need to get better (my own assessment).

After the event, in October, I'll try to post (or link to the site
where they will post the shots).

Thanks for all the info and help!
-- 
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-28 Thread paul stenquist
Good choice. The 80/20 needs help from a ceiling, but it's great where  
that's available.

Paul
On Sep 28, 2009, at 10:12 AM, Ed Keeney wrote:


Just sending an update - I did a little recon and found that the
ceiling at the venue is vaulted and 20+ feet, too high for a standard
bounce.

I had checked the Vivitar 285HV and the voltage issue isn't an issue.

I debated on getting the Fong Dong thing, but the learning curve in a
short window...I'm not up to that task right now.

I wound up getting the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer (after debating on the
80/20).  I had a similar pocket bounce years ago.  I got a chance to
try it this past weekend at a family gathering and results are good -
I still need to get better (my own assessment).

After the event, in October, I'll try to post (or link to the site
where they will post the shots).

Thanks for all the info and help!
--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread Luiz Felipe
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would 
be dangerous.


I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger, 
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.


Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is 
safe. But checking is always a good move, IMHO. I do test every new 
flash before I use it, and that goes for friend's studio flashes - seen 
older models leak AC into the sync, and trigger voltages up to 600v, in 
particular ancient units.


lf

Miserere escreveu:

2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:

De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
Body: K100D
Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink



One thing nobody has mentioned is the trigger voltage of the Vivitar
285HV. I just want to make sure that the voltage is low enough for
your camera.

This might be a moot point, but I thought I'd bring it up just in
case. I don't want you to fry your camera  :-)


 --M.





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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread Pasvorn Boonmark
Luiz,

Thank for the information.

In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?

-Pasvorn

On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:01 AM, Luiz Felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br wrote:
 Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would be
 dangerous.

 I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger,
 currently swapped for a FTZ 330.

 Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is
 safe. But checking is always a good move, IMHO. I do test every new flash
 before I use it, and that goes for friend's studio flashes - seen older
 models leak AC into the sync, and trigger voltages up to 600v, in particular
 ancient units.

 lf

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread Luiz Felipe
Well, I use a voltmeter capable of good information on the desired volt 
range. In these days of almost disposable multiple reading digital 
meters, every single model I know offers a 0~20 volt setting for DC 
current. Hold one of the meter's probes to the ground part of the flash 
shoe, the other to the center contact, and watch the reading as you 
cycle the flash some times, from power-up to the discharge and then the 
re-charge. Safe readings are up to 6v DC, 0v AC - but handheld units 
usually present no AC issues, AFAIK. I assume a 7v flash as safe - my 
285HV goes past 6,7v but is being used with Canon, Sony, Nikon and 
Pentax digital cameras with no problems so far.


On studio units you should read from both parts of the sync cord - but 
first look for AC leaks, with the meter set to ~200v AC, one probe to 
the sync, one wire at a time, other to a ground line or large metal 
structure. Any signals read here spell problem to modern cameras. Old 
studio units were known to zap photographers with damp, sweaty faces... 
pls note that AC is dangerous, and if not sure of the procedure call for 
help.


lf

Pasvorn Boonmark escreveu:

Luiz,

Thank for the information.

In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?

-Pasvorn

On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:01 AM, Luiz Felipe luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br wrote:

Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would be
dangerous.

I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger,
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.

Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is
safe. But checking is always a good move, IMHO. I do test every new flash
before I use it, and that goes for friend's studio flashes - seen older
models leak AC into the sync, and trigger voltages up to 600v, in particular
ancient units.

lf


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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread Luiz Felipe

Small details that skipped my keyboard:

In using digital voltmeters the placement of the probes is simple, as 
the display will present results with a - sign if you invert positive 
and negative probes on dc voltages. Needle voltmeters will try do swing 
to the wrong side of the display - reversing the probes will get a 
proper reading.


I suggested the ~200v AC setting simply because I live in a 220v area - 
but any AC coming from the flash unit will do its best to flow towards 
the ground, using you and your camera as possible, so I don't consider a 
safe AC reading coming from the sync line.


DC or CC - constant current may be dangerous too - pls take care.

lf

Luiz Felipe escreveu:
Well, I use a voltmeter capable of good information on the desired volt 
range. In these days of almost disposable multiple reading digital 
meters, every single model I know offers a 0~20 volt setting for DC 
current. Hold one of the meter's probes to the ground part of the flash 
shoe, the other to the center contact, and watch the reading as you 
cycle the flash some times, from power-up to the discharge and then the 
re-charge. Safe readings are up to 6v DC, 0v AC - but handheld units 
usually present no AC issues, AFAIK. I assume a 7v flash as safe - my 
285HV goes past 6,7v but is being used with Canon, Sony, Nikon and 
Pentax digital cameras with no problems so far.


On studio units you should read from both parts of the sync cord - but 
first look for AC leaks, with the meter set to ~200v AC, one probe to 
the sync, one wire at a time, other to a ground line or large metal 
structure. Any signals read here spell problem to modern cameras. Old 
studio units were known to zap photographers with damp, sweaty faces... 
pls note that AC is dangerous, and if not sure of the procedure call for 
help.


lf

Pasvorn Boonmark escreveu:

Luiz,

Thank for the information.

In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?

-Pasvorn

On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:01 AM, Luiz Felipe 
luiz.fel...@techmit.com.br wrote:
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that 
would be

dangerous.

I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger,
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.

Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is
safe. But checking is always a good move, IMHO. I do test every new 
flash

before I use it, and that goes for friend's studio flashes - seen older
models leak AC into the sync, and trigger voltages up to 600v, in 
particular

ancient units.

lf


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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread John Sessoms

From: Luiz Felipe
Miserere, Pasvorn, I heard about an older version of the 285 that would 
be dangerous.


I have one (2001 bought) that is just about 7 volts on the trigger, 
currently swapped for a FTZ 330.


Ed, since you already paired your 285 with the K100d, I'd assume your is 
safe. But checking is always a good move, IMHO. I do test every new 
flash before I use it, and that goes for friend's studio flashes - seen 
older models leak AC into the sync, and trigger voltages up to 600v, in 
particular ancient units.


The older 283 and 285 models had higher voltage trigger circuits. You 
want to look for the 285HV - HV designates the newer model with the safe 
trigger voltage.


Vivitar brought the 285HV back into production due to demand.

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-19 Thread John Sessoms

From: Pasvorn Boonmark

Luiz,

Thank for the information.

In general, how do you check voltage trigger for a flash?



http://www.botzilla.com/photo/G1strobe.html

scroll down.

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-18 Thread Miserere
2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:
 De-lurking to pose a question...

 I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
 year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
 about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
 Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

 Here's my question...

 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

 I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
 Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

 My equipment...
     Body: K100D
     Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
 using those
     Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

 I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
 needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
 I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
 Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

 --
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink


One thing nobody has mentioned is the trigger voltage of the Vivitar
285HV. I just want to make sure that the voltage is low enough for
your camera.

This might be a moot point, but I thought I'd bring it up just in
case. I don't want you to fry your camera  :-)


 --M.



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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-18 Thread Pasvorn Boonmark
On Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 7:38 AM, Miserere miser...@gmail.com wrote:


 One thing nobody has mentioned is the trigger voltage of the Vivitar
 285HV. I just want to make sure that the voltage is low enough for
 your camera.

Miserere,

Very good point to bring up.   The 285HV is safe.  I have 2 of them
and use them regularly on my DL, and my Pany G1.

The 283, so I heard, is not safe.

-Pasvorn



 This might be a moot point, but I thought I'd bring it up just in
 case. I don't want you to fry your camera  :-)


  --M.



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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-18 Thread John Sessoms

From: Miserere

2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:

 De-lurking to pose a question...

 I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
 year dinner for my daughters softball team. ?I did something similar
 about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
 Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

 Here's my question...

 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots? ?Any recommendations to look at?

 I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
 Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

 My equipment...
 ? ? Body: K100D
 ? ? Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4) ?I have longer, but won't be
 using those
 ? ? Flash: ?Vivitar 285HV

 I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
 needing it for this event. ?I don't know the layout of the venue, so
 I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling. ?The
 Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

 --
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink



One thing nobody has mentioned is the trigger voltage of the Vivitar
285HV. I just want to make sure that the voltage is low enough for
your camera.

This might be a moot point, but I thought I'd bring it up just in
case. I don't want you to fry your camera   :-) 


6V - safe for digital.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/02/return-of-classic.html

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-18 Thread Bruce Dayton
Don't forget the recycle time issue.  With more power used, the
recycle times increase - so you have to be aware of how much time
between shots you have.  The Fong unit does take quite a bit more
power than a bouncer, so your between shot time increases quite a bit.

When I don't know what the ceilings will be like I take a Lumiquest
Ultra-Soft and a Lumiquest Big Bouncer.  One of the two will work
even if there are no ceilings at all.

Remember that everything is a trade off.

-- 
Best regards,
Bruce


Thursday, September 17, 2009, 7:59:55 PM, you wrote:

ps You're right, Christine. The Fong Lightsphere will be marginal with  
ps the 360. It sacrifices a couple of stops and requires plenty of power.
ps Paul
ps On Sep 17, 2009, at 9:40 PM, Christine Aguila wrote:

 Hi Ed:  Looks like you got some good advice from Ecki, Paul  John,  
 so I can't really add much.  As Ecki said, try to sneak a peek at  
 the event venue, and see if you can ask about lights.  Don't forget  
 to check the color of the ceiling if it's a good height to bounce  
 flash light.  The shots on the thread you mentioned below were taken  
 at a place where the ceilings were painted white and of good bounce- 
 height, say 8ish, 9ish feet high.

 I have the Fong Diffuser (cloudy), and I find it frustrating to use,  
 though I have the Pentax Flash 360, which is not as strong as Paul  
 Stenquist's 540, so maybe therein lies the problem.  Also, I have to  
 chimp like crazy when using flash because of my flash poor skills,  
 and I'm constantly plus or minusing flash compensation.

 I know I'm not much help here, but I did want to share this:  for  
 the geso mentioned below, I had the camera set to manual mode and at  
 f4 and shutter speed say 1/30 - 1/60th of a second.  Using these  
 setting freed me to focus more on my flash settings and that was  
 helpful.  The learning point of that exercise was to try and blend  
 flash with existing light.

 You probably already know this, and someone has probably already  
 mentioned it, but I'll just say, I recommend shooting like crazy  
 with your flash from now until the event. :-)

 Sorry I couldn't be more help--good luck with the shoot, and post  
 some pics if you can.  Would like to hear how things went.
 Cheers, Christine




 - Original Message - From: Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:32 PM
 Subject: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser


 De-lurking to pose a question...

 I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
 year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
 about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
 Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

 Here's my question...

 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

 I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
 Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

 My equipment...
Body: K100D
Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
 using those
Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

 I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
 needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
 I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
 Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

 -- 
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread Ed Keeney
De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
 Body: K100D
 Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
 Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

-- 
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread eckinator
Hi Ed

Well you've gone right to the source so we'll give you an answer that
you'll endorse =P

The bigger the exit surface of the light, the softer and nicer the light.

Seeing you don't know about the ceiling, go sneak a peek first or go
with a diffusor / softbox or maybe one of those zany high tech
showercap contraptions like the Fong Dong aka lightsphere - mind you
I've never used one of those but I do hear good things about them from
time to time.

If you go with a bounce card, make it as large as possible and with an
irregular structure to break up the light. I would use one that
doesn't require glue on Velcro on your flash.

There are also DIY Fong Dongs plus I've found an empty Corn Flakes bag
over the flash with a bit of Mylar (inside of an empty chips bag)
glued to the upper part to direct reflections works nicely (read that
on the iNet tried it and liked it) but I guess you can only use that
in private... ]=)

Cheers
Ecke

2009/9/17 Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com:
 De-lurking to pose a question...

 I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
 year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
 about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
 Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

 Here's my question...

 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

 I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
 Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

 My equipment...
     Body: K100D
     Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
 using those
     Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

 I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
 needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
 I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
 Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

 --
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread paul stenquist

Hi Ed,
The safest bet for situations where you don't know what kind of  
ceiling you'll be working with is the Lumiquest Pocket Bounce.


http://www.lumiquest.com/products/pocket-bouncer.htm

This device provides nice diffusion and a natural look but doesn't  
rely on help from the ceiling. You'll only lose a bit more than one  
stop of light with this device. That could be critical for this job.  
The flash will work well for table shots, speakers or small groups. If  
you have to shoot a large group, you may want to use a tripod and  
correct the lighting in post.

Paul


On Sep 17, 2009, at 2:32 PM, Ed Keeney wrote:


De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
Body: K100D
Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread Ed Keeney
Ecke - I saw the Fong Dong / lightsphere, looked interesting, wasn't
sure about results

Paul - That's what I had used in the past.  I figured I'd ask around
before I went out and bought something.

-- 
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread paul stenquist
I actually use the Fong Lightsphere more often than the Lumiquest  
pocket bounce, but it's somewhat dependent on the height and color of  
the ceiling. It can yield great results but requires more work and  
practice than the Lumiquest pocket bounce. On the other hand, the  
Lightsphere is much better for verticals, but it requires a flashhead  
that both tilts and swivels for vertical shooting. With very high and  
dark ceilings I sometimes have to shoot through it as though it were a  
softbox.


Paul

On Sep 17, 2009, at 3:54 PM, Ed Keeney wrote:


Ecke - I saw the Fong Dong / lightsphere, looked interesting, wasn't
sure about results

Paul - That's what I had used in the past.  I figured I'd ask around
before I went out and bought something.

--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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RE: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread John Sessoms

From: Ed Keeney

De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
 Body: K100D
 Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
 Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.


Strobist is your friend:  http://strobist.blogspot.com/

The guy LOVES the 285HV (second only to Nikon's SB-28).

Check out the Lighting 101 Archive.

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread Larry Colen
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 02:32:57PM -0400, Ed Keeney wrote:
 De-lurking to pose a question...
 
 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?
 

My usual preferred diffuser is the big lumiquest:
http://www.lumiquest.com/products/softbox-iii.htm

It lives in the laptop compartment of my camera bag.

You can make something that works as well, is a lot cheaper, but isn't
quite as portable:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157606657830875/

It's basically a cheapass fongdong made out of a water jug and some
foam rubber. I've found it works best to line one side with aluminum
foil so that if its aimed forward it doesn't flash into the lens (big
problem with my FA31), and if it's pointing to the ceiling, you can
bounce a little more light forward than back.


-- 
The first step is learning to take great photos, 
the second step is learning to throw away ones that are merely good.
Larry Colen l...@red4est.comhttp://www.red4est.com/lrc


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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread Christine Aguila
Hi Ed:  Looks like you got some good advice from Ecki, Paul  John, so I 
can't really add much.  As Ecki said, try to sneak a peek at the event 
venue, and see if you can ask about lights.  Don't forget to check the color 
of the ceiling if it's a good height to bounce flash light.  The shots on 
the thread you mentioned below were taken at a place where the ceilings were 
painted white and of good bounce-height, say 8ish, 9ish feet high.


I have the Fong Diffuser (cloudy), and I find it frustrating to use, though 
I have the Pentax Flash 360, which is not as strong as Paul Stenquist's 540, 
so maybe therein lies the problem.  Also, I have to chimp like crazy when 
using flash because of my flash poor skills, and I'm constantly plus or 
minusing flash compensation.


I know I'm not much help here, but I did want to share this:  for the geso 
mentioned below, I had the camera set to manual mode and at f4 and shutter 
speed say 1/30 - 1/60th of a second.  Using these setting freed me to focus 
more on my flash settings and that was helpful.  The learning point of that 
exercise was to try and blend flash with existing light.


You probably already know this, and someone has probably already mentioned 
it, but I'll just say, I recommend shooting like crazy with your flash from 
now until the event. :-)


Sorry I couldn't be more help--good luck with the shoot, and post some pics 
if you can.  Would like to hear how things went.

Cheers, Christine




- Original Message - 
From: Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com

To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser



De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
Body: K100D
Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

--
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to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and 
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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread paul stenquist
You're right, Christine. The Fong Lightsphere will be marginal with  
the 360. It sacrifices a couple of stops and requires plenty of power.

Paul
On Sep 17, 2009, at 9:40 PM, Christine Aguila wrote:

Hi Ed:  Looks like you got some good advice from Ecki, Paul  John,  
so I can't really add much.  As Ecki said, try to sneak a peek at  
the event venue, and see if you can ask about lights.  Don't forget  
to check the color of the ceiling if it's a good height to bounce  
flash light.  The shots on the thread you mentioned below were taken  
at a place where the ceilings were painted white and of good bounce- 
height, say 8ish, 9ish feet high.


I have the Fong Diffuser (cloudy), and I find it frustrating to use,  
though I have the Pentax Flash 360, which is not as strong as Paul  
Stenquist's 540, so maybe therein lies the problem.  Also, I have to  
chimp like crazy when using flash because of my flash poor skills,  
and I'm constantly plus or minusing flash compensation.


I know I'm not much help here, but I did want to share this:  for  
the geso mentioned below, I had the camera set to manual mode and at  
f4 and shutter speed say 1/30 - 1/60th of a second.  Using these  
setting freed me to focus more on my flash settings and that was  
helpful.  The learning point of that exercise was to try and blend  
flash with existing light.


You probably already know this, and someone has probably already  
mentioned it, but I'll just say, I recommend shooting like crazy  
with your flash from now until the event. :-)


Sorry I couldn't be more help--good luck with the shoot, and post  
some pics if you can.  Would like to hear how things went.

Cheers, Christine




- Original Message - From: Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser



De-lurking to pose a question...

I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

Here's my question...

Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

My equipment...
   Body: K100D
   Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
using those
   Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

--
Thanks!
Ed
http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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Re: Flash Question -- Bounce v. Diffuser

2009-09-17 Thread Bong Manayon
Hello,

I still use the 285HV with the K10D.  I managed to shoe-horn a
diffuser which was meant for Sunpak 4205 into the slot intended for
the filters of the Vivitar.  Although I used a DIY bounce card before,
I found this more compact but it is difficult to remove and put back
on so it virtually stays on the flash.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg292/bongm131/_IGP2967-web.jpg

Bong

On Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 2:32 AM, Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com wrote:
 De-lurking to pose a question...

 I've been nominated (not at my request) to take pictures at a end of
 year dinner for my daughters softball team.  I did something similar
 about 15 years ago with an older setup I no longer have (theft).
 Since then, things have changed, yet things remain the same.

 Here's my question...

 Does anyone have thoughts on using a bounce card versus using a
 diffuser for flash shots?  Any recommendations to look at?

 I searched the PDML archives and found Christine Aguila's GESO Flash
 Practice thread from January 2009 (great work!).

 My equipment...
     Body: K100D
     Lenses: DA18-55 (kit) and FA50 (1.4)  I have longer, but won't be
 using those
     Flash:  Vivitar 285HV

 I can squeak something new into the camera bag under the guise of
 needing it for this event.  I don't know the layout of the venue, so
 I'm not sure what I can get from a bounce off the ceiling.  The
 Vivitar doesn't swivel, but does have vertical bounce.

 --
 Thanks!
 Ed
 http://picasaweb.google.com/ewkphoto/PESO?feat=directlink

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-- 
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http://www.bong.uni.cc

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Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re: WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread Bruce Walker

Joseph McAllister wrote:
A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re: 
TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not doable. 
It does imply that it should work, but does not back that up in text 
or sync spec charts.


Let us know what tech support at Pentax has to say please...


And the envelope please ...

---
Dear Mr. Walker,

Thank you for contacting Pentax.

Trailing curtain sync will not work with the K20D and the AF-540FGZ off-camera 
in the wireless mode.  The K20D manual doesn't specifically explain this but 
under setting up the flash in wireless mode on page 47 of the AF-540FGZ flash 
manual it says you have to have the flash set to leading curtain sync.  The 
off-camera flash is using the built-in flash, or another AF-540 on the hotshoe, 
as a trigger, but only for leading curtain sync.

---


However, I expect that I can use the hotshoe accessory and a cable to at 
least get off-camera TCS working.  Sigh.  Another multi-day special 
order from Pentax Canada.


Thanks to everyone who helped-out, especially Doug and Charles for 
taking lots of flash shots of interior walls. :-)


-bmw

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Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re: WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread Doug Brewer

Bruce Walker wrote:


Dear Mr. Walker,

Thank you for contacting Pentax.

Trailing curtain sync will not work with the K20D and the AF-540FGZ 
off-camera in the wireless mode.  The K20D manual doesn't specifically 
explain this but under setting up the flash in wireless mode on page 47 
of the AF-540FGZ flash manual it says you have to have the flash set to 
leading curtain sync.  The off-camera flash is using the built-in flash, 
or another AF-540 on the hotshoe, as a trigger, but only for leading 
curtain sync.


---


However, I expect that I can use the hotshoe accessory and a cable to at 
least get off-camera TCS working.  Sigh.  Another multi-day special 
order from Pentax Canada.


Thanks to everyone who helped-out, especially Doug and Charles for 
taking lots of flash shots of interior walls. :-)


-bmw


glad to do it. all in all it's just another pic of the wall.

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Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re: WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread Bruce Walker

Doug Brewer wrote:

Bruce Walker wrote:


Dear Mr. Walker,

Thank you for contacting Pentax.

Trailing curtain sync will not work with the K20D and the AF-540FGZ 
off-camera in the wireless mode.  The K20D manual doesn't 
specifically explain this but under setting up the flash in wireless 
mode on page 47 of the AF-540FGZ flash manual it says you have to 
have the flash set to leading curtain sync.  The off-camera flash is 
using the built-in flash, or another AF-540 on the hotshoe, as a 
trigger, but only for leading curtain sync.


---


However, I expect that I can use the hotshoe accessory and a cable to 
at least get off-camera TCS working.  Sigh.  Another multi-day 
special order from Pentax Canada.


Thanks to everyone who helped-out, especially Doug and Charles for 
taking lots of flash shots of interior walls. :-)


-bmw


glad to do it. all in all it's just another pic of the wall.


He's cruisin' for a bruisin' ...

-bmw

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Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re: WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread Paul Sorenson
You can substitute the ProMaster cord for all the Pentax do-dads.  I've 
used this with both the Sigma EF-500DG Super and the AF-540FGZ and it 
works well.  Typical cost around 60USD


http://tinyurl.com/d44d89

-p

Bruce Walker wrote:

Joseph McAllister wrote:
A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re: 
TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not doable. 
It does imply that it should work, but does not back that up in text 
or sync spec charts.


Let us know what tech support at Pentax has to say please...


And the envelope please ...

---
Dear Mr. Walker,

Thank you for contacting Pentax.

Trailing curtain sync will not work with the K20D and the AF-540FGZ 
off-camera in the wireless mode.  The K20D manual doesn't specifically 
explain this but under setting up the flash in wireless mode on page 47 
of the AF-540FGZ flash manual it says you have to have the flash set to 
leading curtain sync.  The off-camera flash is using the built-in flash, 
or another AF-540 on the hotshoe, as a trigger, but only for leading 
curtain sync.


---


However, I expect that I can use the hotshoe accessory and a cable to at 
least get off-camera TCS working.  Sigh.  Another multi-day special 
order from Pentax Canada.


Thanks to everyone who helped-out, especially Doug and Charles for 
taking lots of flash shots of interior walls. :-)


-bmw

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Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re: WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread Bruce Walker

Paul Sorenson wrote:
You can substitute the ProMaster cord for all the Pentax do-dads.  
I've used this with both the Sigma EF-500DG Super and the AF-540FGZ 
and it works well.  Typical cost around 60USD


http://tinyurl.com/d44d89

-p



Thanks Paul; good suggestion.

-bmw

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Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go [Re:WTB and a macro flash question]

2009-04-23 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Walker
Subject: Re: Tech-support: Wireless trailing curtain sync flash a no-go 
[Re:WTB and a macro flash question]






He's cruisin' for a bruisin' ...


Careful with that axe

William Robb 



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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Brian Walters
OK - I use flash only occasionally and wireless flash almost never but
I've tried Doug's suggestions below with the K200D and AF360FGZ and I'm
seeing exactly the same results as Bruce.  The flash always fires on the
leading curtain (or perhaps it just fires the pre-flash on the leading
curtain and main flash doesn't fire at all - I'm just guessing here).

I wondered if my flash was faulty but attached to the camera in P-TTL
mode (not in wireless mode), it fires on the trailing curtain as it
should.

Obviously this is of no help to Bruce..



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/




On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 21:12 -0400, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Doug Brewer wrote:
  Doug Brewer wrote:
 
  okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2, use 
  the built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.
 
  Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.
 
  Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar 
  settings on the big boy.
 
  oh, yeah, and the flash set to slave mode, built-in flash popped up.
 
 Custom #29 = 2 ... check.
 flash on TCS ... check.
 camera on wireless ... check.
 ext flash on Slave ... check.
 PUF up ... check.
 
 External flash still fires on leading curtain.  I have the shutter speed 
 at 0.5 sec so I can see where the flash occurs.  I've also tried 
 speeding the shutter up and panning across an object and it is still 
 doing LCS.  I've tried with SR on and off (I recall reading that some 
 flash mode doesn't work with SR on).
 
 I'm going to try resetting all the options 'cause I'm running right out 
 of ideas.
 
 -bmw
 
-- 


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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Bruce Walker

Brian Walters wrote:

OK - I use flash only occasionally and wireless flash almost never but
I've tried Doug's suggestions below with the K200D and AF360FGZ and I'm
seeing exactly the same results as Bruce.  The flash always fires on the
leading curtain (or perhaps it just fires the pre-flash on the leading
curtain and main flash doesn't fire at all - I'm just guessing here).

I wondered if my flash was faulty but attached to the camera in P-TTL
mode (not in wireless mode), it fires on the trailing curtain as it
should.

Obviously this is of no help to Bruce..



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/
  


On the contrary, that's very helpful to hear; thank you, Brian!  I was 
concerned that I might be simply repeating the same configuration error 
over and over, but you've confirmed exactly what I'm seeing.  And TCS 
does work for me too with either the built-in flash alone, or with the 
540FGZ attached to the hotshoe.


Disabling all Custom options did not change anything in wireless modes 
either.  I think it's time for me to contact Pentax support.


-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Doug Brewer

Brian Walters wrote:

OK - I use flash only occasionally and wireless flash almost never but
I've tried Doug's suggestions below with the K200D and AF360FGZ and I'm
seeing exactly the same results as Bruce.  The flash always fires on the
leading curtain (or perhaps it just fires the pre-flash on the leading
curtain and main flash doesn't fire at all - I'm just guessing here).

I wondered if my flash was faulty but attached to the camera in P-TTL
mode (not in wireless mode), it fires on the trailing curtain as it
should.

Obviously this is of no help to Bruce..


yeah, I guess I could have gone all the way and looked to see if it was 
actually firing on the trail. Here in a minute I'll go get my bag outta 
the car and do a little more testing. I'm intrigued.


(scene the other night:

son, from in front of the tv: Dad, why are you taking pictures of the wall?

me: This guy is having trouble setting his flash to fire on the trailing 
curtain in wireless mode. I'm looking at how to do it.


son: ...

me: you still there?

son: no.

)

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread mike wilson

 Doug Brewer d...@alphoto.com wrote: 
 Brian Walters wrote:
  OK - I use flash only occasionally and wireless flash almost never but
  I've tried Doug's suggestions below with the K200D and AF360FGZ and I'm
  seeing exactly the same results as Bruce.  The flash always fires on the
  leading curtain (or perhaps it just fires the pre-flash on the leading
  curtain and main flash doesn't fire at all - I'm just guessing here).
  
  I wondered if my flash was faulty but attached to the camera in P-TTL
  mode (not in wireless mode), it fires on the trailing curtain as it
  should.
  
  Obviously this is of no help to Bruce..
 
 yeah, I guess I could have gone all the way and looked to see if it was 
 actually firing on the trail. Here in a minute I'll go get my bag outta 
 the car and do a little more testing. I'm intrigued.
 
 (scene the other night:
 
 son, from in front of the tv: Dad, why are you taking pictures of the wall?
 
 me: This guy is having trouble setting his flash to fire on the trailing 
 curtain in wireless mode. I'm looking at how to do it.
 
 son: ...
 
 me: you still there?
 
 son: no.
 
 )

Pretty much the conversation Cath and I had the other night when I was trying 
to work out the buffer number thing on mine.  Except our conversation was 
exclusively looks and eyebrow movements.

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Bruce Walker

Doug Brewer wrote:


(scene the other night:

son, from in front of the tv: Dad, why are you taking pictures of the 
wall?


me: This guy is having trouble setting his flash to fire on the 
trailing curtain in wireless mode. I'm looking at how to do it.


son: ...

me: you still there?

son: no.

)


Heh!  Similar thing here: lots of wall, snatches of picture frame, some 
motion-blurred light switches and a confused looking spaniel making his 
escape.  Glad you reminded about the test shots -- I just emptied a card 
of them for some shooting I'm doing this morning.


-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Charles Robinson

On Apr 21, 2009, at 8:16, Doug Brewer wrote:


Brian Walters wrote:
OK - I use flash only occasionally and wireless flash almost never  
but
I've tried Doug's suggestions below with the K200D and AF360FGZ and  
I'm
seeing exactly the same results as Bruce.  The flash always fires  
on the
leading curtain (or perhaps it just fires the pre-flash on the  
leading

curtain and main flash doesn't fire at all - I'm just guessing here).
I wondered if my flash was faulty but attached to the camera in P-TTL
mode (not in wireless mode), it fires on the trailing curtain as it
should.
Obviously this is of no help to Bruce..


yeah, I guess I could have gone all the way and looked to see if it  
was actually firing on the trail. Here in a minute I'll go get my  
bag outta the car and do a little more testing. I'm intrigued.


(scene the other night:

son, from in front of the tv: Dad, why are you taking pictures of  
the wall?


me: This guy is having trouble setting his flash to fire on the  
trailing curtain in wireless mode. I'm looking at how to do it.


son: ...

me: you still there?

son: no.

)



Love it!

My son's supposed to be off in college now, but it sounds like maybe  
he's sitting in your TV room now.  I should call him.


BTW - we're talking AF540 and the K20D right?  Should I test here in  
the office with my K10D and AF540 just to annoy my cow-orkers?


 -Charles

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Joseph McAllister
A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re:  
TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not doable.  
It does imply that it should work, but does not back that up in text  
or sync spec charts.


Let us know what tech support at Pentax has to say please...


On Apr 20, 2009, at 18:12 , Bruce Walker wrote:


Doug Brewer wrote:

Doug Brewer wrote:

okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2,  
use the built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.


Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.

Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar  
settings on the big boy.


oh, yeah, and the flash set to slave mode, built-in flash popped up.


Custom #29 = 2 ... check.
flash on TCS ... check.
camera on wireless ... check.
ext flash on Slave ... check.
PUF up ... check.

External flash still fires on leading curtain.  I have the shutter  
speed at 0.5 sec so I can see where the flash occurs.  I've also  
tried speeding the shutter up and panning across an object and it is  
still doing LCS.  I've tried with SR on and off (I recall reading  
that some flash mode doesn't work with SR on).


I'm going to try resetting all the options 'cause I'm running right  
out of ideas.


Joseph McAllister
Pentaxian

http://gallery.me.com/jomac
http://web.me.com/jomac/show.me/Blog/Blog.html


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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Charles Robinson

On Apr 21, 2009, at 11:12, Joseph McAllister wrote:

A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re:  
TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not  
doable. It does imply that it should work, but does not back that  
up in text or sync spec charts.




Nothing I do with the 540 can make the little what mode am I in  
symbol (when disconnected from the camera) change to anything other  
than the standard lightning-bolt, filled-in triangle, hollow triangle  
sequence which means regular flash.


Best I could do was attach it to the camera with wireless mode  
(between on and off) selected and the hard switch on the 540 set to  
Trailing Curtain (bolt, hollow, filled) ... select menu on the K10D  
and immediately the flash said hey, wait - I'm supposed to be in TCS  
mode! and the symbol changed.


Then I pulled the flash right off the hotshoe (with everything still  
turned on).


The symbol immediately changed back to bolt, filled, hollow which is  
the standard mode.


I wonder if it can be done at all - methinks not!

 -Charles

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Joseph McAllister
Further study of the format used in the K20D manual indicates that the  
major Headings (pg. 143) are dark grey with white text at the top of  
the page. The sub-headings are medium grey with white text, and  
located under a line across the page (pg. 144). The further sub-sub- 
headings are just bolded black text (pg. 145).


Given that construct, Using In Wireless Mode on pg. 145 continues  
until half way down page 148, when the subject changes to Red-Eye  
Reduction.  Then again to Trailing Curtain Sync.  Wireless mode is  
out of the picture at this point. Leads me to believe it's not an  
option unless you are wired to the hot-shoe. Which the next  
illustration on pg. 149 shows, even though the subject is changed to  
Using the Built-in Flash with the External Flash.  TCS is in the  
limbo between the two modes, wireless and wired.


Poor design.

Joseph

On Apr 21, 2009, at 12:40 , Charles Robinson wrote:


On Apr 21, 2009, at 11:12, Joseph McAllister wrote:

A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re:  
TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not  
doable. It does imply that it should work, but does not back that  
up in text or sync spec charts.




Nothing I do with the 540 can make the little what mode am I in  
symbol (when disconnected from the camera) change to anything other  
than the standard lightning-bolt, filled-in triangle, hollow  
triangle sequence which means regular flash.


Best I could do was attach it to the camera with wireless mode  
(between on and off) selected and the hard switch on the 540 set to  
Trailing Curtain (bolt, hollow, filled) ... select menu on the K10D  
and immediately the flash said hey, wait - I'm supposed to be in  
TCS mode! and the symbol changed.


Then I pulled the flash right off the hotshoe (with everything still  
turned on).


The symbol immediately changed back to bolt, filled, hollow which  
is the standard mode.


I wonder if it can be done at all - methinks not!

-Charles


Joseph McAllister
pentax...@mac.com

http://gallery.me.com/jomac
http://web.me.com/jomac/show.me/Blog/Blog.html






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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-21 Thread Brian Walters
On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 09:12 -0700, Joseph McAllister pentax...@mac.com
wrote:
 A pretty thorough reading of both the K20D and AF540FGZ manuals re:  
 TCS reveals nothing. It is neither mentioned as doable or not doable.  
 It does imply that it should work, but does not back that up in text  
 or sync spec charts.
 
 Let us know what tech support at Pentax has to say please...
 


Going backwards and forwards between the K200D and AF360FGZ manuals last
night left me with a serious headache and no enlightenment, other than
the fact that Pentax needs to employ competent technical writers.

I suspect strongly that TCS isn't possible in wireless mode.  



Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/



 
 On Apr 20, 2009, at 18:12 , Bruce Walker wrote:
 
  Doug Brewer wrote:
  Doug Brewer wrote:
 
  okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2,  
  use the built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.
 
  Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.
 
  Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar  
  settings on the big boy.
 
  oh, yeah, and the flash set to slave mode, built-in flash popped up.
 
  Custom #29 = 2 ... check.
  flash on TCS ... check.
  camera on wireless ... check.
  ext flash on Slave ... check.
  PUF up ... check.
 
  External flash still fires on leading curtain.  I have the shutter  
  speed at 0.5 sec so I can see where the flash occurs.  I've also  
  tried speeding the shutter up and panning across an object and it is  
  still doing LCS.  I've tried with SR on and off (I recall reading  
  that some flash mode doesn't work with SR on).
 
  I'm going to try resetting all the options 'cause I'm running right  
  out of ideas.
 
 Joseph McAllister
 Pentaxian
 
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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-20 Thread Bruce Walker

Doug Brewer wrote:

Doug Brewer wrote:

okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2, use 
the built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.


Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.

Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar 
settings on the big boy.


oh, yeah, and the flash set to slave mode, built-in flash popped up.


Custom #29 = 2 ... check.
flash on TCS ... check.
camera on wireless ... check.
ext flash on Slave ... check.
PUF up ... check.

External flash still fires on leading curtain.  I have the shutter speed 
at 0.5 sec so I can see where the flash occurs.  I've also tried 
speeding the shutter up and panning across an object and it is still 
doing LCS.  I've tried with SR on and off (I recall reading that some 
flash mode doesn't work with SR on).


I'm going to try resetting all the options 'cause I'm running right out 
of ideas.


-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread mike wilson

Boris Liberman wrote:

Oh, I see. I just tried to search the eBay and found really plethora of 
such devices, none of which, sadly, seems to match my Metz flash.


I should keep looking or try to make one of these myself, even if it 
will be crude.


Boris


Depending on how macro you intend, don't forget that the flash tube 
ceases to be a point source of light and becomes progressively more like 
a softbox of potentially gigantic propotions.  At high levels of 
magnification, even the bare tube with no diffuser will be producing 
softer looking light.  Might be worth experimenting a bit before buying 
anything.





Toine wrote:


Probably yes like this
http://www.fotokonijnenberg.be/product/1408978/fk_ringflash_adapter_voor_canon_580exii.html 


These things are very large.

Any diffusor on the Metz would also work nicely. A ring flash is not
always the best option.

Toine

2009/4/18 Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com:


Thus, I was thinking - is there such a thing that can be attached to the
head of a general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the 
light to

the front of the lens, just like the ring macro flash?



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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread AlunFoto
Boris,

Try finding some device that allows you to align the flash head with
the front element of your macro lens, and a sync cable to fit your
flash. There are both tailor made solutions like the flash brackets
from ReallyRightStuff and DIY projects to a couple of dollars. I
bought a hotshoe grip off ebay for a couple of dollars that did the
trick after some modification. I've used it with the AF-500FTZ, and
the AF-540FGZ. Drop me a (off-) line if you want to know about the
mods.

Jostein

2009/4/18 Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com:
 Hi!

 Before I forget (though it is not Friday, but nonetheless) - if you have
 matching macro adapter (I think it is two elements apo design) that came
 with Cosina 100/3.5 macro lenses, I'd like to buy it. I've FA 100/3.5 macro
 and I'd like to complete it with this adapter.

 And the question. I've truly excellent Metz 40MZ-2 flash with SCA 3701
 adapter that works really well. I would like to try to get somewhat more
 serious about my nature macro photography. To that end I am thinking of a
 macro flash. However I've already have a good flash. Thus, I was thinking -
 is there such a thing that can be attached to the head of a general flash,
 say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to the front of the lens,
 just like the ring macro flash?

 Any input on the issue will be greatly appreciated.

 Thanks.

 Boris

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread Bruce Walker

paul stenquist wrote:
I've done it. Don't have time to check now, but I know trailing 
curtain is set with the lower power switch. I think it's the second 
click to the right of off. I've used it on the K20D and it works.

Paul


Well on the AF-540FGZ it's configured on the switch labeled Sync., 
immediately to the left of the main power switch, and it's the second 
click to the right of leading curtain sync (wireless mode is set on the 
main power switch, the intermediate click between Off and On).  I have 
verified that that works fine when the 540 is mounted on-camera.  And 
TCS works using the built-in flash too.


But if I move the flash off-camera and try to go wireless, phxxxt!  No 
trailing curtain.  I've tried it with both the built-in flash as 
controller, and another 540FGZ as controller.


The K20D manual even states on page 148 (bottom) that if TCS is set on 
the remote flash, the internal flash will adopt that mode too.  But not 
for me.  Very annoying.


I'm beginning to wonder if the recent firmware upgrade broke wireless 
trailing curtain.  Sadly I can't test that, and I never tried WTCS 
before the upgrade.


-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread Doug Brewer

Bruce Walker wrote:

paul stenquist wrote:
I've done it. Don't have time to check now, but I know trailing 
curtain is set with the lower power switch. I think it's the second 
click to the right of off. I've used it on the K20D and it works.

Paul


Well on the AF-540FGZ it's configured on the switch labeled Sync., 
immediately to the left of the main power switch, and it's the second 
click to the right of leading curtain sync (wireless mode is set on the 
main power switch, the intermediate click between Off and On).  I have 
verified that that works fine when the 540 is mounted on-camera.  And 
TCS works using the built-in flash too.


But if I move the flash off-camera and try to go wireless, phxxxt!  No 
trailing curtain.  I've tried it with both the built-in flash as 
controller, and another 540FGZ as controller.


The K20D manual even states on page 148 (bottom) that if TCS is set on 
the remote flash, the internal flash will adopt that mode too.  But not 
for me.  Very annoying.


I'm beginning to wonder if the recent firmware upgrade broke wireless 
trailing curtain.  Sadly I can't test that, and I never tried WTCS 
before the upgrade.


-bmw


silly question, but did you make sure the flash and camera were on the 
same channel?


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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread Bruce Walker

Doug Brewer wrote:

Bruce Walker wrote:

paul stenquist wrote:
I've done it. Don't have time to check now, but I know trailing 
curtain is set with the lower power switch. I think it's the second 
click to the right of off. I've used it on the K20D and it works.

Paul


Well on the AF-540FGZ it's configured on the switch labeled Sync., 
immediately to the left of the main power switch, and it's the second 
click to the right of leading curtain sync (wireless mode is set on 
the main power switch, the intermediate click between Off and On).  I 
have verified that that works fine when the 540 is mounted 
on-camera.  And TCS works using the built-in flash too.


But if I move the flash off-camera and try to go wireless, phxxxt!  
No trailing curtain.  I've tried it with both the built-in flash as 
controller, and another 540FGZ as controller.


The K20D manual even states on page 148 (bottom) that if TCS is set 
on the remote flash, the internal flash will adopt that mode too.  
But not for me.  Very annoying.


I'm beginning to wonder if the recent firmware upgrade broke wireless 
trailing curtain.  Sadly I can't test that, and I never tried WTCS 
before the upgrade.


-bmw


silly question, but did you make sure the flash and camera were on the 
same channel?


Not so silly. :-)  But yeah, they were; all set to channel 1.  The 
remote flash was in fact firing, just not on the trailing curtain.


-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread Doug Brewer

Bruce Walker wrote:
Not so silly. :-)  But yeah, they were; all set to channel 1.  The 
remote flash was in fact firing, just not on the trailing curtain.


-bmw


okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2, use the 
built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.


Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.

Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar 
settings on the big boy.


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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-19 Thread Doug Brewer

Doug Brewer wrote:



okay, try this: in your custom settings, number 29, set it to 2, use the 
built-in flash as the controller, instead of the master.


Set the flash on TCS, camera on wireless, and see what happens.

Note: I'm basing this on the 360FGZ, and assume there are similar 
settings on the big boy.


oh, yeah, and the flash set to slave mode, built-in flash popped up.

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WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Boris Liberman

Hi!

Before I forget (though it is not Friday, but nonetheless) - if you have 
matching macro adapter (I think it is two elements apo design) that came 
with Cosina 100/3.5 macro lenses, I'd like to buy it. I've FA 100/3.5 
macro and I'd like to complete it with this adapter.


And the question. I've truly excellent Metz 40MZ-2 flash with SCA 3701 
adapter that works really well. I would like to try to get somewhat more 
serious about my nature macro photography. To that end I am thinking of 
a macro flash. However I've already have a good flash. Thus, I was 
thinking - is there such a thing that can be attached to the head of a 
general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to the 
front of the lens, just like the ring macro flash?


Any input on the issue will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Boris

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Toine
Probably yes like this
http://www.fotokonijnenberg.be/product/1408978/fk_ringflash_adapter_voor_canon_580exii.html
These things are very large.

Any diffusor on the Metz would also work nicely. A ring flash is not
always the best option.

Toine

2009/4/18 Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com:
 Thus, I was thinking - is there such a thing that can be attached to the
 head of a general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to
 the front of the lens, just like the ring macro flash?


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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Boris Liberman
Oh, I see. I just tried to search the eBay and found really plethora of 
such devices, none of which, sadly, seems to match my Metz flash.


I should keep looking or try to make one of these myself, even if it 
will be crude.


Boris

Toine wrote:

Probably yes like this
http://www.fotokonijnenberg.be/product/1408978/fk_ringflash_adapter_voor_canon_580exii.html
These things are very large.

Any diffusor on the Metz would also work nicely. A ring flash is not
always the best option.

Toine

2009/4/18 Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com:

Thus, I was thinking - is there such a thing that can be attached to the
head of a general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to
the front of the lens, just like the ring macro flash?



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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Peter Loveday
There's the RayFlash (http://www.ray-flash.com), which requires a certain 
flash-lens distance based on various canon/nikon flashes, or the Orbis 
(http://www.orbisflash.com), which requires you to hand-hold the flash. 
Neither of which are really designed for macro photography, but more for 
studio/portrait ring-flash look.


Really you don't want the kind of power a normal flash puts out in a ring 
flash; well, at least you need to be able to get it very low.  The Metz 
flashes are great at this, generally, and can be dialed down to 1/256th. 
Still, its probably overkill.


There are DIY attempts at getting a ring-flash from the pop-up flash on 
cameras using fibre-optics, but they all seema bit clumsy. (eg: 
http://www.fring.we.bs/)


- Peter 



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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread David Savage
2009/4/18 Peter Loveday pe...@loveday.org:
 There's the RayFlash (http://www.ray-flash.com), which requires a certain
 flash-lens distance based on various canon/nikon flashes, or the Orbis
 (http://www.orbisflash.com), which requires you to hand-hold the flash.
 Neither of which are really designed for macro photography, but more for
 studio/portrait ring-flash look.

Speaking of the Orbis adaptor, all of the photos that make up this
image were taken using one (~130kb):

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3626/3403694597_6aede35a60_o.jpg

As to flash for macro, any flash will do the job as long as you can
get it off the camera. I'm personally a big fan of the wirelles
features of the AF-540FGZ (and the CLS system on the Nikon).

Cheers,

Dave

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Joseph McAllister

On Apr 18, 2009, at 07:13 , Boris Liberman wrote:

And the question. I've truly excellent Metz 40MZ-2 flash with SCA  
3701 adapter that works really well. I would like to try to get  
somewhat more serious about my nature macro photography. To that end  
I am thinking of a macro flash. However I've already have a good  
flash. Thus, I was thinking - is there such a thing that can be  
attached to the head of a general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that  
will transmit the light to the front of the lens, just like the ring  
macro flash?


Any input on the issue will be greatly appreciated.


I have a CSI Polaroid SX-70 kit, officially a Polaroid CU-70 Macro  
Kit. It includes three different strength macro lens attachments: 1X,  
2X and 3X, all with built in flash directors and meter windows. This  
system will allow you to focus continuously from 1 foot to 1.5 inches!  
Also included are the three dedicated brackets and the camera mounting  
platform, as well as the flash adapter plug for Alpha cameras. All on  
an aluminum Halliburton-like case.


See here, 2/3 of the way down.   http://www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/SX70.html

Something could be jerry rigged easily.

If it doesn’t excite you,
This thing that you see,
Why in the world,
Would it excite me?
—Jay Maisel

Joseph McAllister
pentax...@mac.com





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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Brian Walters
G'day Boris

On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 17:13 +0300, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hi!
 
 Before I forget (though it is not Friday, but nonetheless) - if you have 
 matching macro adapter (I think it is two elements apo design) that came 
 with Cosina 100/3.5 macro lenses, I'd like to buy it. I've FA 100/3.5 
 macro and I'd like to complete it with this adapter.
 
 And the question. I've truly excellent Metz 40MZ-2 flash with SCA 3701 
 adapter that works really well. I would like to try to get somewhat more 
 serious about my nature macro photography. To that end I am thinking of 
 a macro flash. However I've already have a good flash. Thus, I was 
 thinking - is there such a thing that can be attached to the head of a 
 general flash, say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to the 
 front of the lens, just like the ring macro flash?
 
 Any input on the issue will be greatly appreciated.
 


Here's another example of a DIY attempt.  It's rough but seems to work: 

http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-diy-ring-flash-tutorial


It probably wouldn't be too difficult to do a neater (and more compact)
job than this guy managed.

Also, as Dave S mentioned, you can use your existing flash if you get it
off camera.  I use a short flash bracket attached to the base of the
camera  that I can use with either a single flashgun or two guns, one
each side of the camera.

 
Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Leon Altoff
Hi Boris,

I have 2 flash set ups for macro work.

The first is just 2 matching flashes (either AF360 of AF500) held on a
bracket to give light at about 45 degrees on either side of the
subject (the angles can be adjusted to give the lighting you like).
The AF360's can be used completely P-TTL and wireless triggered from
the on camera flash, or you can use a 5P cable set up to set them off.
 I use the 5P cable for the AF500s as well - usually connecting only
one and setting the other to slave mode and both set to manual. (this
works for the AF360's as well)

The other is more compact and is a modified AF360 with a socket added
that lets me plug in another flash head in and use it like 2 flashes
but without the bulk and weight of the 2 flash units.  Ring flashes
are nice, but I the doughnut shaped highlights and the large amount of
reflections off anything damp (caused by the sharp angle of the light)
have put me off them a bit.

If you go the 2 flash and bracket route then you have 2 flashes for
use with other photography and the only cost you have to justify is
the cost of 2 nice sturdy brackets.

Hope this is helpful.

Leon.


2009/4/19 Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com:
 Hi!

 And the question. I've truly excellent Metz 40MZ-2 flash with SCA 3701
 adapter that works really well. I would like to try to get somewhat more
 serious about my nature macro photography. To that end I am thinking of a
 macro flash. However I've already have a good flash. Thus, I was thinking -
 is there such a thing that can be attached to the head of a general flash,
 say my Metz 40MZ-2, that will transmit the light to the front of the lens,
 just like the ring macro flash?

 Any input on the issue will be greatly appreciated.

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread Bruce Walker

David Savage wrote:


I'm personally a big fan of the wirelles
features of the AF-540FGZ (and the CLS system on the Nikon).
  


Here's a question for you then: how can you (assuming you *can*) set a 
wireless AF-540FGZ to do trailing curtain sync together with a K20D?  
I've been playing with this all evening and it's driving me nuts.  
Between the K20D's manual and the flash's manual it's not clear if it 
should even work, though it implies it.  The K20D manual states that it 
should work using the built-in flash, but I follow the instructions 
exactly (afaict) and it simply doesn't work for me.


If it makes any difference, I'm setting the K20D to Tv and 0.5 sec 
shutter so I can see the effects directly.


Thanks!

-bmw

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Re: WTB and a macro flash question

2009-04-18 Thread paul stenquist
I've done it. Don't have time to check now, but I know trailing  
curtain is set with the lower power switch. I think it's the second  
click to the right of off. I've used it on the K20D and it works.

Paul
On Apr 18, 2009, at 9:53 PM, Bruce Walker wrote:


David Savage wrote:


I'm personally a big fan of the wirelles
features of the AF-540FGZ (and the CLS system on the Nikon).



Here's a question for you then: how can you (assuming you *can*) set  
a wireless AF-540FGZ to do trailing curtain sync together with a  
K20D?  I've been playing with this all evening and it's driving me  
nuts.  Between the K20D's manual and the flash's manual it's not  
clear if it should even work, though it implies it.  The K20D manual  
states that it should work using the built-in flash, but I follow  
the instructions exactly (afaict) and it simply doesn't work for me.


If it makes any difference, I'm setting the K20D to Tv and 0.5 sec  
shutter so I can see the effects directly.


Thanks!

-bmw

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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-29 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Fairweather
Subject: Re: Stupid Flash question


 Wendy

 Another thing which I have read is that the guide numbers are based on
 the flash being used in an averagely reflective room. Outdoors the
 guide number is effectively reduced by one stop. So the 36 0f the 360
 Pentax flash becomes 25.

 The other dodge to watch out for is which focal length the guide
 number is quoted at. Not many quote for a 35mm lens as once they did.
 More likely 100. I suppose one ought to allow for the APSC sensor
 factor as well.


Guide number is independant of focal length of lens or size of film.
However, a flash with a zooming head will change GN as it zooms, since the 
fresnel is focusing 
the light to a smaller or larger beam pattern.
I have heard about the GN being based on an average reflectance scene (the 
average room, if 
such a thing exists). Some say it is myth, others say it is true. A flash is 
definitely more 
powerful in a smaller room than a very large one or outdoors though because of 
all the light 
bouncing around.

William Robb 


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Peter Fairweather
I might be wrong but doesn't the guide number go up ny the square root of two.

If the GN is 30 at 100 !SO it is 40 at 200 ISO and 60 at 400 ISO


Peter




On 28/02/2008, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Sorry that was a bit convoluted.  Just remember the GN (in this case 22
 in meters) depends on the ISO.  GN doubles as the ISO doubles.

 The formula for determining the proper f stop to use is:

 f = GN (in meters)/distance (in meters)

 You just plug the numbers you have in.

 If your lens just has distances marked in feet then you have to convert
 the GN in meters to one in feet by multiplying  it by 3.28.  You can
 simply convert feet into meters, but if you convert the GN it becomes a
 constant an you only have to do it once.

 Pretty simple unless you have one of those new fangled lenses with no
 feet/meter markings at all.  Also remember you don't have to be exact.
 Being off by a 1/3rd to a 1/2 stop will still give reasonable results.

 P. J. Alling wrote:
  Yes, I expect since TTL isn't supported on the K10D, so it does fire at
  full.  If you can find out the GN at ISO 100 you should be able to work
  out your own flash table from there.  The ISO 100 GN in Meters as
  published by Pentax  for the AF220T is 22 so to get the correct aperture
  you need to do a little math.the formula is simple if you have a
  calculator.  (f number) = GN/distance(in meters).  If you double the ISO
  you have to double the GN by the way, so that parts easy enough at
  least.  So your distance of 1.5m at ISO 200 would give this
 
  f = 44/1.5 = 29 1/3  so yes f 8 was way too wide at that distance.  I'd
  go with ISO 100 since you have a K10d.  That should give you an  f stop
  value of 14.66_  which is much more manageable.
 
  wendy beard wrote:
 
  I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
  as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
  magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
  camera!)
  I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
  That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
  Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
  repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
  get the K10D working with an AF220T
  Here comes the stupid question.
  How do I know what settings to use?
  My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
  distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
  0.7-5.5m
  It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
  distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed
 
  Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
  at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
  exposed shot with this combination?
 
  Wendy
 
 
 
 
 
 


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Scott Loveless
Peter Fairweather wrote:
 I might be wrong but doesn't the guide number go up ny the square root of two.
 
 If the GN is 30 at 100 !SO it is 40 at 200 ISO and 60 at 400 ISO
 
 
 Peter
 
 
 
 
 On 28/02/2008, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Sorry that was a bit convoluted.  Just remember the GN (in this case 22
 in meters) depends on the ISO.  GN doubles as the ISO doubles.

This explanation is about as good as any other I've read:
http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles0703/jm0703-1.html

-- 
Scott Loveless
http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/

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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread P. J. Alling
You're right, it's not linear it's based on with the inverse square 
law.  So GN increases by ~1.41 times when ISO doubles.  so a change from 
iso 100 to 200 give a new gn of 22 gives ~31 hey it was late and I was 
tired.  (Hell just look at my first explanation), and I haven't 
seriously used  manual flash in years.


Peter Fairweather wrote:
 I might be wrong but doesn't the guide number go up ny the square root of two.

 If the GN is 30 at 100 !SO it is 40 at 200 ISO and 60 at 400 ISO


 Peter




 On 28/02/2008, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Sorry that was a bit convoluted.  Just remember the GN (in this case 22
 in meters) depends on the ISO.  GN doubles as the ISO doubles.

 The formula for determining the proper f stop to use is:

 f = GN (in meters)/distance (in meters)

 You just plug the numbers you have in.

 If your lens just has distances marked in feet then you have to convert
 the GN in meters to one in feet by multiplying  it by 3.28.  You can
 simply convert feet into meters, but if you convert the GN it becomes a
 constant an you only have to do it once.

 Pretty simple unless you have one of those new fangled lenses with no
 feet/meter markings at all.  Also remember you don't have to be exact.
 Being off by a 1/3rd to a 1/2 stop will still give reasonable results.

 P. J. Alling wrote:
 
 Yes, I expect since TTL isn't supported on the K10D, so it does fire at
 full.  If you can find out the GN at ISO 100 you should be able to work
 out your own flash table from there.  The ISO 100 GN in Meters as
 published by Pentax  for the AF220T is 22 so to get the correct aperture
 you need to do a little math.the formula is simple if you have a
 calculator.  (f number) = GN/distance(in meters).  If you double the ISO
 you have to double the GN by the way, so that parts easy enough at
 least.  So your distance of 1.5m at ISO 200 would give this

 f = 44/1.5 = 29 1/3  so yes f 8 was way too wide at that distance.  I'd
 go with ISO 100 since you have a K10d.  That should give you an  f stop
 value of 14.66_  which is much more manageable.

 wendy beard wrote:

   
 I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
 as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
 magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
 camera!)
 I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
 That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
 Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
 repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
 get the K10D working with an AF220T
 Here comes the stupid question.
 How do I know what settings to use?
 My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
 distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
 0.7-5.5m
 It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
 distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

 Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
 at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
 exposed shot with this combination?

 Wendy



 

   
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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Paul Sorenson
Yes - if you double the ISO, multiply the GN by 1.414 (even 1.5 will get 
you pretty close).  To double the GN you need to increase the ISO by 4X.

-p

Peter Fairweather wrote:
 I might be wrong but doesn't the guide number go up ny the square root of two.
 
 If the GN is 30 at 100 !SO it is 40 at 200 ISO and 60 at 400 ISO
 
 
 Peter
 
 
 
 
 On 28/02/2008, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Sorry that was a bit convoluted.  Just remember the GN (in this case 22
 in meters) depends on the ISO.  GN doubles as the ISO doubles.

 The formula for determining the proper f stop to use is:

 f = GN (in meters)/distance (in meters)

 You just plug the numbers you have in.

 If your lens just has distances marked in feet then you have to convert
 the GN in meters to one in feet by multiplying  it by 3.28.  You can
 simply convert feet into meters, but if you convert the GN it becomes a
 constant an you only have to do it once.

 Pretty simple unless you have one of those new fangled lenses with no
 feet/meter markings at all.  Also remember you don't have to be exact.
 Being off by a 1/3rd to a 1/2 stop will still give reasonable results.

 P. J. Alling wrote:
 Yes, I expect since TTL isn't supported on the K10D, so it does fire at
 full.  If you can find out the GN at ISO 100 you should be able to work
 out your own flash table from there.  The ISO 100 GN in Meters as
 published by Pentax  for the AF220T is 22 so to get the correct aperture
 you need to do a little math.the formula is simple if you have a
 calculator.  (f number) = GN/distance(in meters).  If you double the ISO
 you have to double the GN by the way, so that parts easy enough at
 least.  So your distance of 1.5m at ISO 200 would give this

 f = 44/1.5 = 29 1/3  so yes f 8 was way too wide at that distance.  I'd
 go with ISO 100 since you have a K10d.  That should give you an  f stop
 value of 14.66_  which is much more manageable.

 wendy beard wrote:

 I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
 as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
 magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
 camera!)
 I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
 That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
 Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
 repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
 get the K10D working with an AF220T
 Here comes the stupid question.
 How do I know what settings to use?
 My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
 distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
 0.7-5.5m
 It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
 distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

 Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
 at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
 exposed shot with this combination?

 Wendy






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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: wendy beard
Subject: Stupid Flash question


I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
 as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
 magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
 camera!)
 I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
 That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
 Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
 repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
 get the K10D working with an AF220T
 Here comes the stupid question.
 How do I know what settings to use?
 My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
 distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
 0.7-5.5m
 It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
 distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

 Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
 at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
 exposed shot with this combination?

Analog TTL isn't supported on the K10, so you will have to use the AF220T as a 
plain auto flash, 
if possible.

William Robb 


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Igor Roshchin

Wendy,

An alternative way of figuring out the needed f-stop for your flash is
as follows.
Look at the page 4 of the manual, Table no.1:
http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/AF220T_FLASH.pdf

Since K10D does not support regular TTL, the flash will fire at full
power. This means, that the you take the longest side of each range -
for the particular f-stop -- this would be the right distance for
this f-stop at ISO-100. At other ISOs - you multiply it by the factor
posted in Table no.3 - or simply change by 1 f-stop for each ISO step.

HTH,

Igor


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread wendy beard
Ok. Think I've got it.
So looking at the table - f8 and ISO 100 with the flash at full power
will illuminate correctly objects at a distance of 2.7m

thanks everybody!

Wendy

On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 11:30 AM, Igor Roshchin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Wendy,

  An alternative way of figuring out the needed f-stop for your flash is
  as follows.
  Look at the page 4 of the manual, Table no.1:
  http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/AF220T_FLASH.pdf

  Since K10D does not support regular TTL, the flash will fire at full
  power. This means, that the you take the longest side of each range -
  for the particular f-stop -- this would be the right distance for
  this f-stop at ISO-100. At other ISOs - you multiply it by the factor
  posted in Table no.3 - or simply change by 1 f-stop for each ISO step.

  HTH,

  Igor


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Peter Fairweather
Wendy

Another thing which I have read is that the guide numbers are based on
the flash being used in an averagely reflective room. Outdoors the
guide number is effectively reduced by one stop. So the 36 0f the 360
Pentax flash becomes 25.

The other dodge to watch out for is which focal length the guide
number is quoted at. Not many quote for a 35mm lens as once they did.
More likely 100. I suppose one ought to allow for the APSC sensor
factor as well.

Happily before you enrol on a maths degree and paint your room 18%
grey, a mixture of chimping and bracketing works a lot more easily.

Peter



On 28/02/2008, wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ok. Think I've got it.
 So looking at the table - f8 and ISO 100 with the flash at full power
 will illuminate correctly objects at a distance of 2.7m

 thanks everybody!

 Wendy



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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-28 Thread Igor Roshchin

Bill, 

The flash is effectively more powerful in a smaller room
if the angle of the beam is much larger then the angle of the
view of the object. 
Let me give you an example where it is not true.
Imagine you are using a flash with an angle of the beam that is similar
to the angle of view of your lens (and the design where all the light 
is thrown forward) and the object you are photographing takes most of 
the frame.  In this case, presence or absence of the wall would not matter.
(This situation is somewhat equivalent to macro-photography with a
flash).

While I do not know how exactly GN is calibrated in reality, I would 
expect it to be based on the direct light exposure, without taking into
account the light bounced of the walls/ceiling. In this case, the 
average reflectance is related to the object(s) being photographed, 
and not to the surrounding objects (outside of the frame).

Igor


Thu Feb 28 18:40:38 EST 2008
William Robb 

 I have heard about the GN being based on an average reflectance
 scene (the average room, if 
 such a thing exists). Some say it is myth, others say it is true. A
 flash is definitely more 
 powerful in a smaller room than a very large one or outdoors though
 because of all the light 
 bouncing around.




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Stupid Flash question

2008-02-27 Thread wendy beard
I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
camera!)
I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
get the K10D working with an AF220T
Here comes the stupid question.
How do I know what settings to use?
My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
0.7-5.5m
It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
exposed shot with this combination?

Wendy

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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-27 Thread P. J. Alling
Yes, I expect since TTL isn't supported on the K10D, so it does fire at 
full.  If you can find out the GN at ISO 100 you should be able to work 
out your own flash table from there.  The ISO 100 GN in Meters as 
published by Pentax  for the AF220T is 22 so to get the correct aperture 
you need to do a little math.the formula is simple if you have a 
calculator.  (f number) = GN/distance(in meters).  If you double the ISO 
you have to double the GN by the way, so that parts easy enough at 
least.  So your distance of 1.5m at ISO 200 would give this

f = 44/1.5 = 29 1/3  so yes f 8 was way too wide at that distance.  I'd 
go with ISO 100 since you have a K10d.  That should give you an  f stop 
value of 14.66_  which is much more manageable. 

wendy beard wrote:
 I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
 as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
 magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
 camera!)
 I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
 That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
 Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
 repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
 get the K10D working with an AF220T
 Here comes the stupid question.
 How do I know what settings to use?
 My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
 distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
 0.7-5.5m
 It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
 distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

 Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
 at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
 exposed shot with this combination?

 Wendy

   


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Re: Stupid Flash question

2008-02-27 Thread P. J. Alling
Sorry that was a bit convoluted.  Just remember the GN (in this case 22 
in meters) depends on the ISO.  GN doubles as the ISO doubles. 

The formula for determining the proper f stop to use is:

f = GN (in meters)/distance (in meters)

You just plug the numbers you have in. 

If your lens just has distances marked in feet then you have to convert 
the GN in meters to one in feet by multiplying  it by 3.28.  You can 
simply convert feet into meters, but if you convert the GN it becomes a 
constant an you only have to do it once.

Pretty simple unless you have one of those new fangled lenses with no 
feet/meter markings at all.  Also remember you don't have to be exact.  
Being off by a 1/3rd to a 1/2 stop will still give reasonable results.

P. J. Alling wrote:
 Yes, I expect since TTL isn't supported on the K10D, so it does fire at 
 full.  If you can find out the GN at ISO 100 you should be able to work 
 out your own flash table from there.  The ISO 100 GN in Meters as 
 published by Pentax  for the AF220T is 22 so to get the correct aperture 
 you need to do a little math.the formula is simple if you have a 
 calculator.  (f number) = GN/distance(in meters).  If you double the ISO 
 you have to double the GN by the way, so that parts easy enough at 
 least.  So your distance of 1.5m at ISO 200 would give this

 f = 44/1.5 = 29 1/3  so yes f 8 was way too wide at that distance.  I'd 
 go with ISO 100 since you have a K10d.  That should give you an  f stop 
 value of 14.66_  which is much more manageable. 

 wendy beard wrote:
   
 I admit, I'm useless when it comes to using flash. I use it as little
 as possible. When I do, I just stick the flash on the Canon and it all
 magically works - even on the G9 (tho the flash is bigger than the
 camera!)
 I don't remember having any problems with the MZ-S and 360FGZ
 That's the magic of E-TTL/P-TTL, I suppose
 Anyway, I no longer have the 360FGZ and both the Canons are off for
 repair and sticking a flash on the G9 is ridiculous - so I'm trying to
 get the K10D working with an AF220T
 Here comes the stupid question.
 How do I know what settings to use?
 My old, old agfatronic used to have a table of aperture vs asa vs
 distance. All that's on the back of this flash is control range
 0.7-5.5m
 It seems mighty powerful at close range. ISO 200 f8 1/180s and a
 distance of approx 1.5m and it's way over-exposed

 Is it because TTL isn't supported on the K10D so the flash just fires
 at full power all the time? Will it just be pure luck if I get a well
 exposed shot with this combination?

 Wendy

   
 


   


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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-12 Thread Thibouille
Because they do have at least some real photographic skills.

On 1/11/08, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If most PS users love power zoom then why is Manual Zoom a selling
 feature of higher-end PS's. Most PS shooters I know actively hate
 Power Zoom and it's imprecise control.

 -Adam

 On 1/11/08, Thibouille [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I know some people who like it and btw PS users love it !!
 
  On Jan 11, 2008 9:48 PM, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
   zoom was actively bad.
  
   -Adam
  
  
   On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
must have been very friendly...
   
Rick
   
--- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.

 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.

 -Adam

 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 capability ...
   Yes with firmware updates and with 2
 limitations:
 
   * You can only chose channel nr 1
 
  Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 the same way as with the
  *istD.
 
  Having said that, setting it is about the most
 convoluted and unintuitive
  way imaginable:
 
  The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 slave set to remote when its
  mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 camera, set your flash to
  Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 mode on the camera.  It will
  show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 work just fine on that
  channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 hotshoe and put it where you
  actually want it...
 
  Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 shot (what would be wrong
  with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 while its showing Ch 1
  after turning on wireless mode...)
 
   * No HSS in wireless mode
 
  Indeed.
 
  Love, Light and Peace,
  - Peter Loveday
 
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  --
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Programing: D7 user (trying out D2007)

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Thibouille
 Having said that, setting it is about the most convoluted and unintuitive
 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a slave set to remote when its
 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the camera, set your flash to
 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless mode on the camera.  It will
 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will work just fine on that
 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the hotshoe and put it where you
 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be shot (what would be wrong
 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel while its showing Ch 1
 after turning on wireless mode...)

Huh.. LOL mmm. You're right, me thinks. I prefer laughing at it.
Thanks for for the info !

-- 
Thibault Massart aka Thibouille
--
Photo: K10D,Z1,SuperA,KX,MX, P30t and KR-10x ;) ...
Thinkpad: X23+UB,X60+UB
Programing: D7 user (trying out D2007)

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Adam Maas
And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
zoom was actively bad.

-Adam

On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
 power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
 must have been very friendly...

 Rick

 --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
  their wireless flash
  system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
  1992.
 
  Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
  system, I halfway
  suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
  ADI metered TTL
  system. The two work (And don't work) in very
  similar ways.
 
  -Adam
 
  On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K10D have the wireless flash
  capability ...
Yes with firmware updates and with 2
  limitations:
  
* You can only chose channel nr 1
  
   Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
  the same way as with the
   *istD.
  
   Having said that, setting it is about the most
  convoluted and unintuitive
   way imaginable:
  
   The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
  slave set to remote when its
   mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
  camera, set your flash to
   Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
  mode on the camera.  It will
   show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
  work just fine on that
   channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
  hotshoe and put it where you
   actually want it...
  
   Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
  shot (what would be wrong
   with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
  while its showing Ch 1
   after turning on wireless mode...)
  
* No HSS in wireless mode
  
   Indeed.
  
   Love, Light and Peace,
   - Peter Loveday
  
   --
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   http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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  link directly above and follow the directions.
  
 
 
  --
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  Explorations of the City Around Us.
 
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread P. J. Alling
The computing power for Power Zoom to work as promised with any 
reliability, wasn't available in the size package Pentax tried to put it 
in for any reasonable price at the time.  I'm not sure it's available 
now at a reasonable price.

Adam Maas wrote:
 And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
 zoom was actively bad.

 -Adam

 On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
 power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
 must have been very friendly...

 Rick

 --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.

 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.

 -Adam

 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 
 capability ...
   
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2
   
 limitations:
   
 * You can only chose channel nr 1
   
 Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 
 the same way as with the
   
 *istD.

 Having said that, setting it is about the most
 
 convoluted and unintuitive
   
 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 
 slave set to remote when its
   
 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 
 camera, set your flash to
   
 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 
 mode on the camera.  It will
   
 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 
 work just fine on that
   
 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 
 hotshoe and put it where you
   
 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 
 shot (what would be wrong
   
 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 
 while its showing Ch 1
   
 after turning on wireless mode...)

 
 * No HSS in wireless mode
   
 Indeed.

 Love, Light and Peace,
 - Peter Loveday

 --
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 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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 link directly above and follow the directions.
   
 --
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When it is complete the Bavarian Cream Illuminati will rule the world
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Thibouille
I know some people who like it and btw PS users love it !!

On Jan 11, 2008 9:48 PM, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
 zoom was actively bad.

 -Adam


 On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
  power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
  must have been very friendly...
 
  Rick
 
  --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
   their wireless flash
   system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
   1992.
  
   Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
   system, I halfway
   suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
   ADI metered TTL
   system. The two work (And don't work) in very
   similar ways.
  
   -Adam
  
   On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash
   capability ...
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2
   limitations:
   
 * You can only chose channel nr 1
   
Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
   the same way as with the
*istD.
   
Having said that, setting it is about the most
   convoluted and unintuitive
way imaginable:
   
The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
   slave set to remote when its
mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
   camera, set your flash to
Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
   mode on the camera.  It will
show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
   work just fine on that
channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
   hotshoe and put it where you
actually want it...
   
Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
   shot (what would be wrong
with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
   while its showing Ch 1
after turning on wireless mode...)
   
 * No HSS in wireless mode
   
Indeed.
   
Love, Light and Peace,
- Peter Loveday
   
--
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http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the
   link directly above and follow the directions.
   
  
  
   --
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   Explorations of the City Around Us.
  
   --
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 Explorations of the City Around Us.

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--
Photo: K10D,Z1,SuperA,KX,MX, P30t and KR-10x ;) ...
Thinkpad: X23+UB,X60+UB
Programing: D7 user (trying out D2007)

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Adam Maas
Not to mention it adds significant mechanical and electronic
complexity with little benefit.

-Adam

On 1/11/08, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 The computing power for Power Zoom to work as promised with any
 reliability, wasn't available in the size package Pentax tried to put it
 in for any reasonable price at the time.  I'm not sure it's available
 now at a reasonable price.

 Adam Maas wrote:
  And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
  zoom was actively bad.
 
  -Adam
 
  On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
  power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
  must have been very friendly...
 
  Rick
 
  --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
  their wireless flash
  system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
  1992.
 
  Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
  system, I halfway
  suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
  ADI metered TTL
  system. The two work (And don't work) in very
  similar ways.
 
  -Adam
 
  On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 
  capability ...
 
  Yes with firmware updates and with 2
 
  limitations:
 
  * You can only chose channel nr 1
 
  Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 
  the same way as with the
 
  *istD.
 
  Having said that, setting it is about the most
 
  convoluted and unintuitive
 
  way imaginable:
 
  The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 
  slave set to remote when its
 
  mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 
  camera, set your flash to
 
  Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 
  mode on the camera.  It will
 
  show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 
  work just fine on that
 
  channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 
  hotshoe and put it where you
 
  actually want it...
 
  Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 
  shot (what would be wrong
 
  with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 
  while its showing Ch 1
 
  after turning on wireless mode...)
 
 
  * No HSS in wireless mode
 
  Indeed.
 
  Love, Light and Peace,
  - Peter Loveday
 
  --
  PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
  PDML@pdml.net
  http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
  to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the
 
  link directly above and follow the directions.
 
  --
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  Explorations of the City Around Us.
 
  --
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 When it is complete the Bavarian Cream Illuminati will rule the world
 -- Anonymous


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Explorations of the City Around Us.

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Adam Maas
If most PS users love power zoom then why is Manual Zoom a selling
feature of higher-end PS's. Most PS shooters I know actively hate
Power Zoom and it's imprecise control.

-Adam

On 1/11/08, Thibouille [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I know some people who like it and btw PS users love it !!

 On Jan 11, 2008 9:48 PM, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
  zoom was actively bad.
 
  -Adam
 
 
  On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
   power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
   must have been very friendly...
  
   Rick
  
   --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
their wireless flash
system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
1992.
   
Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
system, I halfway
suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
ADI metered TTL
system. The two work (And don't work) in very
similar ways.
   
-Adam
   
On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Does the K10D have the wireless flash
capability ...
  Yes with firmware updates and with 2
limitations:

  * You can only chose channel nr 1

 Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
the same way as with the
 *istD.

 Having said that, setting it is about the most
convoluted and unintuitive
 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
slave set to remote when its
 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
camera, set your flash to
 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
mode on the camera.  It will
 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
work just fine on that
 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
hotshoe and put it where you
 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
shot (what would be wrong
 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
while its showing Ch 1
 after turning on wireless mode...)

  * No HSS in wireless mode

 Indeed.

 Love, Light and Peace,
 - Peter Loveday

 --
 PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
 PDML@pdml.net
 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
 to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the
link directly above and follow the directions.

   
   
--
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Explorations of the City Around Us.
   
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  Explorations of the City Around Us.
 
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 --
 Thibault Massart aka Thibouille
 --
 Photo: K10D,Z1,SuperA,KX,MX, P30t and KR-10x ;) ...
 Thinkpad: X23+UB,X60+UB
 Programing: D7 user (trying out D2007)

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Explorations of the City Around Us.

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Ken Waller
Their engineers must have been very friendly...

No. They just slept @ a Holiday Inn Express!

Kenneth Waller
http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: K10D flash question


 Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
 power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
 must have been very friendly...

 Rick

 --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.

 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.

 -Adam

 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 capability ...
   Yes with firmware updates and with 2
 limitations:
 
   * You can only chose channel nr 1
 
  Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 the same way as with the
  *istD.
 
  Having said that, setting it is about the most
 convoluted and unintuitive
  way imaginable:
 
  The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 slave set to remote when its
  mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 camera, set your flash to
  Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 mode on the camera.  It will
  show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 work just fine on that
  channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 hotshoe and put it where you
  actually want it...
 
  Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 shot (what would be wrong
  with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 while its showing Ch 1
  after turning on wireless mode...)
 
   * No HSS in wireless mode
 
  Indeed.
 
  Love, Light and Peace,
  - Peter Loveday
 
  --
  PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
  PDML@pdml.net
  http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
  to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the
 link directly above and follow the directions.
 


 -- 
 M. Adam Maas
 http://www.mawz.ca
 Explorations of the City Around Us.

 -- 
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 PDML@pdml.net
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Rick Womer
Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
must have been very friendly...

Rick

--- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.
 
 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.
 
 -Adam
 
 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 capability ...
   Yes with firmware updates and with 2
 limitations:
 
   * You can only chose channel nr 1
 
  Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 the same way as with the
  *istD.
 
  Having said that, setting it is about the most
 convoluted and unintuitive
  way imaginable:
 
  The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 slave set to remote when its
  mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 camera, set your flash to
  Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 mode on the camera.  It will
  show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 work just fine on that
  channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 hotshoe and put it where you
  actually want it...
 
  Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 shot (what would be wrong
  with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 while its showing Ch 1
  after turning on wireless mode...)
 
   * No HSS in wireless mode
 
  Indeed.
 
  Love, Light and Peace,
  - Peter Loveday
 
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread Ken Waller
 Together...

They went to different schools together.

Kenneth Waller
http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

- Original Message - 
From: P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: K10D flash question


 Together...

 Ken Waller wrote:
 Their engineers must have been very friendly...


 No. They just slept @ a Holiday Inn Express!

 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

 - Original Message - 
 From: Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: K10D flash question



 Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
 power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
 must have been very friendly...

 Rick

 --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.

 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.

 -Adam

 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does the K10D have the wireless flash

 capability ...

 Yes with firmware updates and with 2

 limitations:

 * You can only chose channel nr 1

 Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,

 the same way as with the

 *istD.

 Having said that, setting it is about the most

 convoluted and unintuitive

 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a

 slave set to remote when its

 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the

 camera, set your flash to

 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless

 mode on the camera.  It will

 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will

 work just fine on that

 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the

 hotshoe and put it where you

 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be

 shot (what would be wrong

 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel

 while its showing Ch 1

 after turning on wireless mode...)


 * No HSS in wireless mode

 Indeed.

 Love, Light and Peace,
 - Peter Loveday

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread P. J. Alling
Together...

Ken Waller wrote:
 Their engineers must have been very friendly...
 

 No. They just slept @ a Holiday Inn Express!

 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.tinyurl.com/272u2f

 - Original Message - 
 From: Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: K10D flash question


   
 Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
 power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
 must have been very friendly...

 Rick

 --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
 their wireless flash
 system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
 1992.

 Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
 system, I halfway
 suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
 ADI metered TTL
 system. The two work (And don't work) in very
 similar ways.

 -Adam

 On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash
 
 capability ...
   
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2
   
 limitations:
   
 * You can only chose channel nr 1
   
 Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
 
 the same way as with the
   
 *istD.

 Having said that, setting it is about the most
 
 convoluted and unintuitive
   
 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
 
 slave set to remote when its
   
 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
 
 camera, set your flash to
   
 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
 
 mode on the camera.  It will
   
 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
 
 work just fine on that
   
 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
 
 hotshoe and put it where you
   
 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
 
 shot (what would be wrong
   
 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
 
 while its showing Ch 1
   
 after turning on wireless mode...)

 
 * No HSS in wireless mode
   
 Indeed.

 Love, Light and Peace,
 - Peter Loveday

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread John Francis


Power Zoom is quite useful on big, heavy lenses such as the FA* 80-200
(and even more so on the 250-600); you can zoom over the full zoom range
with only a very small hand movement.

It's certainly not an essential feature, but it does have some uses.


On Fri, Jan 11, 2008 at 03:48:53PM -0500, Adam Maas wrote:
 And smoking the same crack. Neither were exactly good ideas, and power
 zoom was actively bad.
 
 -Adam
 
 On 1/11/08, Rick Womer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Pentax and Minolta shared a few other ideas, such as
  power zoom lenses and pop-up flashes. Their engineers
  must have been very friendly...
 
  Rick
 
  --- Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced
   their wireless flash
   system, complete with moronic channel selection, in
   1992.
  
   Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless
   system, I halfway
   suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's
   ADI metered TTL
   system. The two work (And don't work) in very
   similar ways.
  
   -Adam
  
   On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash
   capability ...
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2
   limitations:
   
 * You can only chose channel nr 1
   
Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D,
   the same way as with the
*istD.
   
Having said that, setting it is about the most
   convoluted and unintuitive
way imaginable:
   
The camera picks up the wireless channel of a
   slave set to remote when its
mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the
   camera, set your flash to
Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless
   mode on the camera.  It will
show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will
   work just fine on that
channel.  You then take the slave flash off the
   hotshoe and put it where you
actually want it...
   
Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be
   shot (what would be wrong
with just using a thumbwheel to change channel
   while its showing Ch 1
after turning on wireless mode...)
   
 * No HSS in wireless mode
   
Indeed.
   
Love, Light and Peace,
- Peter Loveday
   
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-11 Thread graywolf
Since I almost always use the shortest or longesst focal 
length on my PS, it does not seem imprecise, but it does 
seem slow. However most point and shooters I know are using 
their celphone can could not care less about a real camera.

Graywolf (Tom Rittenhouse)
Website: http://www.graywolfphoto.com
Blog:http://www.graywolfphoto.com/journal/
---

Adam Maas wrote:
 If most PS users love power zoom then why is Manual Zoom a selling
 feature of higher-end PS's. Most PS shooters I know actively hate
 Power Zoom and it's imprecise control.

Note to list guy: I am trimming my posts... :)

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-10 Thread Thibouille
Yes with firmware updates and with 2 limitations:
* You can only chose channel nr 1
* No HSS in wireless mode

On Jan 10, 2008 5:02 AM, Gonz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability with the onboard
 flash that the *istD has?  I seem to remember people saying when it
 first came out that it was missing and you needed to mount an AF360 or
 540 to go wireless.  People thought that a firmware upgrade might
 bring it back.  Did that ever happen?

 Thanks,

 Gonz

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--
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Thinkpad: X23+UB,X60+UB
Programing: D7 user (trying out D2007)

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-10 Thread Gonz
Thanks everyone who responded.  I hope (and suspect) that the K20D
will also be so enabled.

On 1/10/08, Thibouille [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2 limitations:
 * You can only chose channel nr 1
 * No HSS in wireless mode

 On Jan 10, 2008 5:02 AM, Gonz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability with the onboard
  flash that the *istD has?  I seem to remember people saying when it
  first came out that it was missing and you needed to mount an AF360 or
  540 to go wireless.  People thought that a firmware upgrade might
  bring it back.  Did that ever happen?
 
  Thanks,
 
  Gonz
 
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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-10 Thread Peter Loveday
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability ...
 Yes with firmware updates and with 2 limitations:

 * You can only chose channel nr 1

Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D, the same way as with the 
*istD.

Having said that, setting it is about the most convoluted and unintuitive 
way imaginable:

The camera picks up the wireless channel of a slave set to remote when its 
mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the camera, set your flash to 
Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless mode on the camera.  It will 
show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will work just fine on that 
channel.  You then take the slave flash off the hotshoe and put it where you 
actually want it...

Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be shot (what would be wrong 
with just using a thumbwheel to change channel while its showing Ch 1 
after turning on wireless mode...)

 * No HSS in wireless mode

Indeed.

Love, Light and Peace,
- Peter Loveday

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-10 Thread Adam Maas
Pentax got the idea from Minolta, who introduced their wireless flash
system, complete with moronic channel selection, in 1992.

Given the peculiarities of the P-TTL wireless system, I halfway
suspect it might be a licensed version of Minolta's ADI metered TTL
system. The two work (And don't work) in very similar ways.

-Adam

On 1/10/08, Peter Loveday [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability ...
  Yes with firmware updates and with 2 limitations:

  * You can only chose channel nr 1

 Well, you *can* choose other channels on the K10D, the same way as with the
 *istD.

 Having said that, setting it is about the most convoluted and unintuitive
 way imaginable:

 The camera picks up the wireless channel of a slave set to remote when its
 mounted on the hot-shoe.  So put the flash on the camera, set your flash to
 Channel X and Slave mode, then enable wireless mode on the camera.  It will
 show Ch X (where it usually shows Ch 1), and will work just fine on that
 channel.  You then take the slave flash off the hotshoe and put it where you
 actually want it...

 Whoever thought up this at Pentax should be shot (what would be wrong
 with just using a thumbwheel to change channel while its showing Ch 1
 after turning on wireless mode...)

  * No HSS in wireless mode

 Indeed.

 Love, Light and Peace,
 - Peter Loveday

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K10D flash question

2008-01-09 Thread Gonz
Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability with the onboard
flash that the *istD has?  I seem to remember people saying when it
first came out that it was missing and you needed to mount an AF360 or
540 to go wireless.  People thought that a firmware upgrade might
bring it back.  Did that ever happen?

Thanks,

Gonz

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Re: K10D flash question

2008-01-09 Thread Peter Loveday
 Does the K10D have the wireless flash capability with the onboard
 flash that the *istD has?  I seem to remember people saying when it
 first came out that it was missing and you needed to mount an AF360 or
 540 to go wireless.  People thought that a firmware upgrade might
 bring it back.  Did that ever happen?

Yes it does.

I think this came in the 1.10 update?  in any case my 1.30 version supports 
it.

Though, curiously, I don't think it'll do wireless HSS (which the *istD 
will)

Love, Light and Peace,
- Peter Loveday

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Re: Wireless flash question: Control vs Master

2007-11-14 Thread Charles Robinson
On Nov 14, 2007, at 16:12, Charles Robinson wrote:

 What is the control wireless mode for?

 I've been playing around with it, and it seems that the flash attached
 to the camera - the AF540FGZ - fires (and triggers the remote slave
 flash) in either control or master mode.

 I'm a little puzzled as to what the control mode is for and the user
 manual isn't much help.  Can someone please explain it to me like I'm
 five years old?


Nevermind

 From what I've read online (duh, should have looked harder first), a  
flash in control mode should not contribute significantly to the  
exposure so it's doing what I thought it should be doing - primarily  
just telling the remote flash what to do.

Although why that final full flash from the controller needs to go  
off at all, I have no idea.  Seems like it could do the pre-flashing  
and then just shut up!

  -Charles

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Re: Wireless flash question: Control vs Master

2007-11-14 Thread Jack Davis
Yes. In control mode, the on-board flash only comunucates info to the
external flash and is fired out of sync with the shutter.
In master mode the on-board flash also adds its exposure to the
scene.  I think.(?)

Jack
--- Charles Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What is the control wireless mode for?
 
 I've been playing around with it, and it seems that the flash
 attached  
 to the camera - the AF540FGZ - fires (and triggers the remote slave  
 flash) in either control or master mode.
 
 I'm a little puzzled as to what the control mode is for and the
 user  
 manual isn't much help.  Can someone please explain it to me like I'm
  
 five years old?
 
   -Charles
 
 --
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 Minneapolis, MN
 http://charles.robinsontwins.org
 
 
 
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Wireless flash question: Control vs Master

2007-11-14 Thread Charles Robinson
What is the control wireless mode for?

I've been playing around with it, and it seems that the flash attached  
to the camera - the AF540FGZ - fires (and triggers the remote slave  
flash) in either control or master mode.

I'm a little puzzled as to what the control mode is for and the user  
manual isn't much help.  Can someone please explain it to me like I'm  
five years old?

  -Charles

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Re: Wireless flash question: Control vs Master

2007-11-14 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Nov 14, 2007, at 2:31 PM, Charles Robinson wrote:

 What is the control wireless mode for?

 I've been playing around with it, and it seems that the flash  
 attached
 to the camera - the AF540FGZ - fires (and triggers the remote slave
 flash) in either control or master mode.

 I'm a little puzzled as to what the control mode is for and the  
 user
 manual isn't much help.  Can someone please explain it to me like I'm
 five years old?


 Nevermind

  From what I've read online (duh, should have looked harder first), a
 flash in control mode should not contribute significantly to the
 exposure so it's doing what I thought it should be doing - primarily
 just telling the remote flash what to do.

 Although why that final full flash from the controller needs to go
 off at all, I have no idea.  Seems like it could do the pre-flashing
 and then just shut up!

I don't have one to experiment with, but that's probably what tells  
the slave flash exactly when to fire.

Godfrey


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