Re: DS remote control/flash questions
I specifically ordered both remotes as they serve totally different purposes. The Canon alternative to the wired remote is good. I use the wired remote with a tripod setup and the wireless when doing the self-portrait thing or sometimes on a copy stand. Godfrey
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
On 3/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The IR remote isn't reliable from behind the camera. The signal can bounce > around the room, but it depends on what's in the room. > For Christmas last year, my wife gave me a wired and wireless remote for my DS. (This which blew me away 'cause she has always maintained that she would never buy me any camera 'stuff'. She loves the pictures, but has no interest in all in the equipment. ) Her intent was for me to keep the remote that I would actually use, and return the other. It didn't take long to convince myself (and her) that the wireless remote is not the best tool for shooting behind the camera. Two different tools, completely different purposes. (I kept both). dk
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
On Mon, Mar 06, 2006 at 09:32:47AM -0500, Fred Widall wrote: > > I do have a F remote, but for some reason the camera drops out of remote > mode after 5 minutes so, which does limit its usefulness. In a related vein - did you spot the 'B' setting on the new cameras?
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
I recently picked up a generic cable release for my *istDS off ebay for a very low price of US$11 (shipping to Canada included). The seller was http://stores.ebay.ca/eDiGi-Deal-Corner Seems to work well. To go it with I also picked up 5x12' extension cables, which allow me to control the camera from up to 60 feet away, from this guy. http://stores.ebay.com/Lil-Guy-Technologies I do have a F remote, but for some reason the camera drops out of remote mode after 5 minutes so, which does limit its usefulness. -- Fred Widall, Email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] URL: http://www.ist.uwaterloo.ca/~fwwidall Images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fwwidall/ --
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
Before buying anything, try out all your television/VCR etc remote control devices. I found that an old generic one that I had lying around works just fine. You can't get better value for money than something that costs nothing. John On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 04:23:15 -, Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi again. (Sorry about all the boring questions.) Will the DS accept a good-old-fashion mechanical remote? (A hopeful but, I fear, fruitless question.) Will the infrared remote control F work from beside or behind the camera? Maybe with a little mirror? :) (Another hopeful question) Why is the cable switch so darn _expensive_? :( Are there any cheaper (third party??) remote releases available? And concerning flashes: My Sunpac auto 144 thrystor has a charge of around 2.3 volts between the two terminals. Would this fry a DS? Has any one on the list used an *Ist with one of those cheap Phoenix wireless jobs? How do they perform? Once again, all ramblings appreciated. Sincerely, Francis -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
The connector is a normal 2.5 mm stereo jack plug. I connected such a jack plug to my Z1 cable release which is a excellent switch. The biggest problem is finding a 2.5 mm jack plug which is small enough to fit the istD. The normal jack plugs are too thick around the plastic part of the connector (not the metal connector itself which is 2.5 mm). Toine On 3/6/06, Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi again. > (Sorry about all the boring questions.) > Will the DS accept a good-old-fashion mechanical remote? (A hopeful but, > I fear, fruitless question.) > Will the infrared remote control F work from beside or behind the > camera? Maybe with a little mirror? :) (Another hopeful question) > Why is the cable switch so darn _expensive_? :( > Are there any cheaper (third party??) remote releases available? > > And concerning flashes: > My Sunpac auto 144 thrystor has a charge of around 2.3 volts between the > two terminals. Would this fry a DS? > Has any one on the list used an *Ist with one of those cheap Phoenix > wireless jobs? How do they perform? > > Once again, all ramblings appreciated. > Sincerely, > Francis > >
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
Quoting Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > Hi again. > (Sorry about all the boring questions.) > Will the DS accept a good-old-fashion mechanical remote? (A hopeful but, > I fear, fruitless question.) > Will the infrared remote control F work from beside or behind the > camera? Maybe with a little mirror? :) (Another hopeful question) > Why is the cable switch so darn _expensive_? :( > Are there any cheaper (third party??) remote releases available? > > And concerning flashes: > My Sunpac auto 144 thrystor has a charge of around 2.3 volts between the > two terminals. Would this fry a DS? > Has any one on the list used an *Ist with one of those cheap Phoenix > wireless jobs? How do they perform? > > Once again, all ramblings appreciated. > Sincerely, > Francis > Hi Francis, No mechanical remote connection on the DS, unless you get one of the velcro strappy things to go over the shutter release. The IR remote isn't reliable from behind the camera. The signal can bounce around the room, but it depends on what's in the room. I got a reasonably cheap Chinese version of the DS electronic remote on ebay. Nicely made. http://tinyurl.com/pujwu Derby
Re: DS remote control/flash questions
Francis wrote: Hi again. (Sorry about all the boring questions.) Will the DS accept a good-old-fashion mechanical remote? (A hopeful but, I fear, fruitless question.) Will the infrared remote control F work from beside or behind the camera? Maybe with a little mirror? :) (Another hopeful question) Why is the cable switch so darn _expensive_? :( Are there any cheaper (third party??) remote releases available? And concerning flashes: My Sunpac auto 144 thrystor has a charge of around 2.3 volts between the two terminals. Would this fry a DS? Has any one on the list used an *Ist with one of those cheap Phoenix wireless jobs? How do they perform? Once again, all ramblings appreciated. Sincerely, Francis It won't take a mechanical release, but it will take the much cheaper Canon 60N3 release which also fits the Rebel XT. 2.3 volts won't faze the DS, which is rated for 250v. -Adam
DS remote control/flash questions
Hi again. (Sorry about all the boring questions.) Will the DS accept a good-old-fashion mechanical remote? (A hopeful but, I fear, fruitless question.) Will the infrared remote control F work from beside or behind the camera? Maybe with a little mirror? :) (Another hopeful question) Why is the cable switch so darn _expensive_? :( Are there any cheaper (third party??) remote releases available? And concerning flashes: My Sunpac auto 144 thrystor has a charge of around 2.3 volts between the two terminals. Would this fry a DS? Has any one on the list used an *Ist with one of those cheap Phoenix wireless jobs? How do they perform? Once again, all ramblings appreciated. Sincerely, Francis
RE: flash questions
Simply move the flash away from the camera. The angle between lens and flash directions is crutial in getting/avoiding red eyes (whis actually is the flash light hitting the backside of the eye apple (the retina), in a place, visible from the point of view of the lens). Perhaps 8 inches or less will do the trick! Jens Bladt mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Francis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 19. december 2004 08:39 Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Emne: flash questions Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Francis
Re: flash questions
Francis wrote: Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. So long as the flash has its own sensor and your use of bouncing doesn't require more light than the flash can provide, yes it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. How about an off-camera flash setup? Or a flash bracket? Anything that gets the flash further away from the axis of the lens is a good thing. S
Re: flash questions
--- Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I > made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. > The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering > how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is > a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. > Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things > like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I > liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Assuming the ceiling is white and about 2-3M high, +2 f-stops should compensate it. = Alan Chan http://www.pbase.com/wlachan __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
flash questions
Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Francis
flash questions
Hi all, I've been messing round with my flash lately (although I abhor using it) I made a make-shift omni bounce thing out of a milk jug and some hot glue. The camera that I'm using doesn't have TTL flash metering so I'm wondering how the diffuser (or ceiling bounce) will effect the exposer. The flash is a thyristor so as I understand it it should work fine. Does anyone have any suggestions for avoiding red-eye when shooting things like squirrels and deer outside? I've tried bouncing it off a tree which I liked quite a bit but there isn't always a tree handy. Francis
Osram Servo 18SC flash questions
my first and second message did not make it :-( Hi Jens thanks to your advice I had an eye for a slave flash and found a barely used Osram 18 SC servo (with sensor) in a second hand store for nearly nothing together with some nice filters and other accessories. Since I can not find a free copy of the manual an the internet and since there is really no switch to set anything on this flash, could you explain for me: What does this "servo" mean in addition to the slave function, what's the difference to the non servo model? Do I have to care about anything when using it together with the AF280T from Pentax as main flash? I assume the Osram will always flash at full power and the main flash will control the amount of light? I think you told me that you have exact the same flash combination used successful with analog bodies. Is 18 the guide number for ISO 100? thanks in advance a (today) very happy Markus
RE: A few flash questions
Hi Alan What do you mean by syncronizing? I have a Metz 32 Z-2 and a 274 (AF) adapter (bought for Z1). I think you must set the Super A to 1/125 sec (flash speed). If you set the lens to "A", the Super A will choose apropriate aperture (for non flash/according to ambient light and 1/125 sec.) and then fire the flash TTL-wise, that is to give apropiriate flash light for the aperture, which the Super A have choosen. The Super A will does not provide a facility to set the camera aperture, accoreding to the possible flash-output, if that's what you mean? This kind of automtics have been manufactured (AFAIR), but I don't remember by which company? The Z1 will adjust shutterspeeds (within certain limits) and the aperure according to the used program, the flash and the ambient light at the scene. all the best Jens mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://hjem.get2net.dk/bladt -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Alan Chan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 4. marts 2004 01:50 Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Emne: A few flash questions 1) Just got a mint Super Program in dirt cheap and everything seems to be fine, EXCEPT, my Metz (40MZ3i + SCA372) flash cannot sync with the camera whenever the lens is set to 'A'. It works fine when the lens is not set to 'A'. The same settings work fine with Z-1p. Is my Super Program faulty, or this is the limitation of the SCA372 adaptor? 2) Did I remember correctly that someone said AF360FGZ does TTL flash with LX? How about Super Program? I have gone through the manual (from the web) but could find no such info. It said Auto flash works with LX only, not TTL flash. Regards, Alan Chan http://www.pbase.com/wlachan _ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus&pgmarket=en-ca&RU=http%3a%2f%2fjoin .msn.com%2f%3fpage%3dmisc%2fspecialoffers%26pgmarket%3den-ca
A few flash questions
1) Just got a mint Super Program in dirt cheap and everything seems to be fine, EXCEPT, my Metz (40MZ3i + SCA372) flash cannot sync with the camera whenever the lens is set to 'A'. It works fine when the lens is not set to 'A'. The same settings work fine with Z-1p. Is my Super Program faulty, or this is the limitation of the SCA372 adaptor? 2) Did I remember correctly that someone said AF360FGZ does TTL flash with LX? How about Super Program? I have gone through the manual (from the web) but could find no such info. It said Auto flash works with LX only, not TTL flash. Regards, Alan Chan http://www.pbase.com/wlachan _ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus&pgmarket=en-ca&RU=http%3a%2f%2fjoin.msn.com%2f%3fpage%3dmisc%2fspecialoffers%26pgmarket%3den-ca
Re: Flash questions
Bojidar Dimitrov a écrit: Hi, Thanks Boj, but what I could/cannot see is information on suitable brackets. Did/does Pentax make any? I am not sure about brackets, but with the help of the 5P cords and adapters, you can connect any number of F-type flashes together. You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? I don't think that the 330 FTZ can, but I do not own the 360 either, so I am not totally sure. The 330FTZ can't do sklave flash, only tje 360FGZ Michel
Re: Flash questions
Bojidar wrote: >> You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did >> you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? BD> I don't think that the 330 FTZ can, but I do not own the 360 either, so BD> I am not totally sure. The 360FGZ can act as a slave both in wireless control or as a plain vanilla slave triggered by any other flash. Servus, Alin
Re: Flash questions
On Sun, 14 Sep 2003, Bojidar Dimitrov wrote: > Hello Kostas, > > > I am trying to understand what it will take so as to enable an MZ-5n > > (or and MZ bar the MZ-S) to do contrast-control-sync flash. > > > Could not find anything on Boj's site or on the Pentax UK/US sites. > > It's there. Go to the "Flashes" page and look under "General > Information". All you need is to connect two F-type flashes somehow > (anyhow), and enable contrast-flash on one of them. That's it! One of > the two flashes can be the built-in one. Thanks Boj, but what I could/cannot see is information on suitable brackets. Did/does Pentax make any? You also mention in the site that the 360FTZ can do slave flash. Did you mean the 330FTZ or the 360FGZ? Thanks for a most excellent site, Kostas
Re: Flash questions
Hello Kostas, > I am trying to understand what it will take so as to enable an MZ-5n > (or and MZ bar the MZ-S) to do contrast-control-sync flash. > Could not find anything on Boj's site or on the Pentax UK/US sites. It's there. Go to the "Flashes" page and look under "General Information". All you need is to connect two F-type flashes somehow (anyhow), and enable contrast-flash on one of them. That's it! One of the two flashes can be the built-in one. Cheers, Boz -- _\\|//_ Imagination is more important than knowledge... 0(` O-O ')0 A. Einstein ===ooO=(_)=Ooo=== Bojidar D. Dimitrov author and editor, Pentax K-Mount web page [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://kmp.BDimitrov.de/ = <__> <__>
Flash questions
I am trying to understand what it will take so as to enable an MZ-5n (or and MZ bar the MZ-S) to do contrast-control-sync flash. So far I have: - AF500FTZ or AF330FTZ flash - Adapter FG - Sync cord F5P - Off-camera shoe adapter F What I am missing, is something to place the show adapter. Is there such a thing as a grip with an attachment that screws to the bottom of the camera? Could not find anything on Boj's site or on the Pentax UK/US sites. Also, is there a manual way to zoom these two flashes if one uses a manual lens with the camera? Finally, will they refuse to zoom/flash if used with an F/FA lens at a focal length beyond their maximum? Thanks, Kostas
Re: AF 400T Flash Questions
Yes, that's correct. A PC cord for standard, non TTL use is also available. I use my AF 400 T for TTL macro with a Sof' Shoulder reflector. I can get as close as I choose with that setup and stil get nice flash coverage. Paul Joseph Tainter wrote: > > Hope someone owns this flash and can help me with a couple of questions. > > According to Boz's site, this flash will perform TTL at distances as > close as 0.25 m (about 10 inches). Will this work with the FA 100 f2.8 > macro at closest focusing distance? (The flash would need to be tilted > forward and angled, to avoid lens shadow.) > > Used ones seem to have two types of synch cords: The 4P Flash Synch Cord > A, which I think is for the LX PC terminal, and the 4P Flash Synch Cord > B, which I believe is for a hot shoe. Is this correct? > > Thanks much, > > Joe
AF 400T Flash Questions
Hope someone owns this flash and can help me with a couple of questions. According to Boz's site, this flash will perform TTL at distances as close as 0.25 m (about 10 inches). Will this work with the FA 100 f2.8 macro at closest focusing distance? (The flash would need to be tilted forward and angled, to avoid lens shadow.) Used ones seem to have two types of synch cords: The 4P Flash Synch Cord A, which I think is for the LX PC terminal, and the 4P Flash Synch Cord B, which I believe is for a hot shoe. Is this correct? Thanks much, Joe
Contrast-control flash questions
Here's a question for those who have used Pentax cameras with both an RTF flash and a separate flash unit. Let's say you have a PZ-1 or PZ-1p, which has the built-in RTF flash and can do true contrast-control flash with some of the newer flash units (using TTL flash and a slightly slower shutter speed than maximum flash synch, the separate flash and the RTF flash fire at a 2:1 ratio). But what happens if you use the AF-280T, which is the only flash I have with bounce/swivel capability? It doesn't do the contrast-control thing, however. But if you fire the AF-280T (let's say angled toward the ceiling) and the RTF flash together, you still get TTL flash, but what's the ratio? I assume the TTL would shut off both flashes at the same time, but perhaps the more powerful one would dictate the overall exposure? Would this be workable for bounce flash with a little fill-in flash via the RTF? Or should I get an AF400FTZ or AF500FTZ? Joe
Some Flash Questions
I've been looking around a bit more at flashes. The real world has hit me pretty hard so I'm not in a hurry to buy anything, but I want to have some idea what I'm looking for when I get that straightened out. Some flashes have TTL modes but no manual mode. What exactly does that mean to have no manual mode? It won't work on a K1000? There's no way to turn off TTL metering when used with my ZX-L, even if I have the camera in manual mode? I fear that sometimes light reflected from foreground objects will throw off the exposure, and manual mode would be best then.
RE: Flash questions
No. You have to repeately post to a thread that has nothing to do with photography, without trimming your reply so that your post is 75 lines long with 1 new line and then you have to claim that you can do this because freedom of speech is protected under the First Amendment (this really impresses every one from places like Europe). You can also get a cool name by posting to the list by using a wireless laptop connection, while driving down the highway in an SUV at a wobbly 40 MPH, with me following behind you. BR From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do I get a cool name now?
Re: RE: Flash questions
Printed and in the binder.Thanks Tom Dave Begin Original Message From: Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 16:16:45 -0500 (EST) To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: Flash questions Thanks, Tom! Very nice explanation. Much appreciated. - jerome Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj/ http://brooks1952.tripod.com/myhorses Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail
RE: Flash questions
Thanks, Tom! Very nice explanation. Much appreciated. - jerome On Fri, 13 Dec 2002, tom wrote: > The camera is still metering for the ambient light. You've set the > sperture/shutter speed for a correct ambient exposure. If you dial > in -1, the camera is telling you that the manual settings will give > you a stop more than the -1 setting on the dial. > > In other words, you've told the camera you want to underexpose by -1, > and it's telling you you're a stop over -1, which is just what you > want. > > Maybe the confusing part is that you expect the meter bar graph to > line up at -1. It's not. It's going to line up in the middle, the > difference being that the middle value is -1. > > Now when you hit the shutter, the flash/camera doesn't care about your > manual settings, it's going to shut the flash off when it senses it's > hit -1. > > Therefore the ambient exposure will be correct, the flash will be a > stop below.
RE: Flash questions
> -Original Message- > From: Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > It's been said on numerous occasions that the exposure > compensation dial > works as flash compensation in M mode. Okay, so if I understand this > correctly, for half intensity, dial in -1 EV of flash > compensation; for > one-third fill, -1 1/3 or -1.5 EV; for one quarter, -2 EV. > Well, even if > that scale is not quite right, the main point is that for > less flash, I'm > supposed to dial negatively correct? Correct. > Well, if the answer is > yes, then > please answer the following: > > Consider a conventional fill-flash setting. I first metered > the scene on > Program mode. Then I set the same exact settings manually > (now in M mode). > Then I flip on the flash unit. Initially, the compensation > bar graph > stays at zero as expected. But as I turn the comp. dial to > the negative > side (less flash?) the bar graph goes up (towards the over > exposure side). > Is this supposed to happen? Yes. The camera is still metering for the ambient light. You've set the sperture/shutter speed for a correct ambient exposure. If you dial in -1, the camera is telling you that the manual settings will give you a stop more than the -1 setting on the dial. In other words, you've told the camera you want to underexpose by -1, and it's telling you you're a stop over -1, which is just what you want. Maybe the confusing part is that you expect the meter bar graph to line up at -1. It's not. It's going to line up in the middle, the difference being that the middle value is -1. Now when you hit the shutter, the flash/camera doesn't care about your manual settings, it's going to shut the flash off when it senses it's hit -1. Therefore the ambient exposure will be correct, the flash will be a stop below. tv
Flash questions
[disclaimer: these are pretty basic questions, but hey! I never claim to be more than a beginner... but a "professional beginner", ofcourse! ] It's been said on numerous occasions that the exposure compensation dial works as flash compensation in M mode. Okay, so if I understand this correctly, for half intensity, dial in -1 EV of flash compensation; for one-third fill, -1 1/3 or -1.5 EV; for one quarter, -2 EV. Well, even if that scale is not quite right, the main point is that for less flash, I'm supposed to dial negatively correct? Well, if the answer is yes, then please answer the following: Consider a conventional fill-flash setting. I first metered the scene on Program mode. Then I set the same exact settings manually (now in M mode). Then I flip on the flash unit. Initially, the compensation bar graph stays at zero as expected. But as I turn the comp. dial to the negative side (less flash?) the bar graph goes up (towards the over exposure side). Is this supposed to happen? Is what I expect to happen (less flash) actually going to occur even though the indicators seem to say otherwise? Of course, I could probably answer some of these questions by just shooting some shots, and taking some notes but I figured there is no need to "waste film" when I have such a panel of experts before me [hoping that flattery will get me everywhere]. Thanks in advance, jerome ps... I now see that it pays to take the camera out of the bag sometimes even when you're not shooting. seems like an obvious thing to do (for learning purposes), but I unfortunately never bother with such things until I'm out taking photos, and by then it's too late! hmmm... lesson learned. ___ Jerome D. Coombs-Reyes PhD Candidate, ISyE, Georgia Tech http://www.isye.gatech.edu/~jerome
Re: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
I knew I'd seen a table comparing Pentax compatible flashes: http://www.photozone.de/2Equipment/pentaxflash.htm Hope that helps, Dan Scott
Re[2]: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
tom, That and cost are the two current deterrents. I really would like the power that it has. It will work with my leaf lenses and P67II TTL and MZ-S TTL. Bruce Tuesday, October 1, 2002, 10:58:36 AM, you wrote: >> -Original Message- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] >> >> >> Yes Francis I have just learned myself that the 500ftz is >> not compatible with >> the LX but the 280T is compatible with both the PZs and >> LXs. Also I don't >> think the 500 has any more power than the 280T. In fact the >> older flash may >> even have a little more real power... t> How do you figure that? The 500 has a GN of 32 at 28mm, the 280 has a t> GN of 28. t> Of course how often do you shoot at 28mm? The zoom function isn't some t> gimmick, it actually works. Load up some 800 speed film and a t> telephoto lens and you can illuminate someone from a few hundred feet. t> If I'm at 28mm I'm right in someone's face, or at about 15 feet doing t> a group shot in a tight space. >> You might be wise to >> look at the >> hammerheads by Metz or the pentax 900 kit which is still >> available for a >> small fortune t> What's the 900 kit? t> The original poster said he found the 280 insufficient for his needs t> at ISO 100. I would be curious as to what exactly he's shooting. I t> almost never shoot below 400 at weddings unless I'm outside with the t> 645n and I need to deal with the 1/60th flash sync. t> Bump your film speed up to 400 and you've doubled the power of your t> flash. If you're worried about the resolution, 35mm NPH does fine up t> to 8x10...if you need bigger prints or more detail, you really need a t> bigger camera, not slower film. t> Bruce is right about the Q-Flash, though I'd be interested to see him t> lug it around on his 67 for 8 hours. ;) t> tv
RE: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
> -Original Message- > From: tom [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 1:59 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS > > > Bump your film speed up to 400 and you've doubled the power of your > flash. Guess that should be quadrupled. tv
RE: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
> -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > Yes Francis I have just learned myself that the 500ftz is > not compatible with > the LX but the 280T is compatible with both the PZs and > LXs. Also I don't > think the 500 has any more power than the 280T. In fact the > older flash may > even have a little more real power... How do you figure that? The 500 has a GN of 32 at 28mm, the 280 has a GN of 28. Of course how often do you shoot at 28mm? The zoom function isn't some gimmick, it actually works. Load up some 800 speed film and a telephoto lens and you can illuminate someone from a few hundred feet. If I'm at 28mm I'm right in someone's face, or at about 15 feet doing a group shot in a tight space. > You might be wise to > look at the > hammerheads by Metz or the pentax 900 kit which is still > available for a > small fortune What's the 900 kit? The original poster said he found the 280 insufficient for his needs at ISO 100. I would be curious as to what exactly he's shooting. I almost never shoot below 400 at weddings unless I'm outside with the 645n and I need to deal with the 1/60th flash sync. Bump your film speed up to 400 and you've doubled the power of your flash. If you're worried about the resolution, 35mm NPH does fine up to 8x10...if you need bigger prints or more detail, you really need a bigger camera, not slower film. Bruce is right about the Q-Flash, though I'd be interested to see him lug it around on his 67 for 8 hours. ;) tv
Re: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
Yes Francis I have just learned myself that the 500ftz is not compatible with the LX but the 280T is compatible with both the PZs and LXs. Also I don't think the 500 has any more power than the 280T. In fact the older flash may even have a little more real power... You might be wise to look at the hammerheads by Metz or the pentax 900 kit which is still available for a small fortune Vic In a message dated 10/1/02 10:55:24 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << 2)I am looking at this flash for Wedding and other event photography. I have the AF-280-T, which I like a lot,but I need more power. I like to use Reala film, but with an ISO of 100, I find the AF-280-T not quite sufficient. I will be using the flash with my PZ-1P. I also have an LX but it is my understanding that the AF-500-FTZ is not compatible with it. As always, thank you. Someday I hope to contribute an answer and not just ask questions. >>
Re: AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
the guide # is accurate with a 85mm F1.4 lens with the zoom head set to 85mm. The AF500FTZ is Pentaxes most powerful flash and it does have some range to it ( only a bit more than the 280 ) but the trade off is it eats batteries and can take forever to recharge. The price you pay for sun tanning power :-) --- Frank Knapik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello. I have a couple of AF-500-FTZ questions: > > 1)Guide Number-164/ISO 100. Is 164 an accurate > guide number for this flash? I realize that flash > manufactures tend to over rate their guide number, > but I thought I read a comment here that Pentax uses > the flash zoom head at telephoto position to obtain > the high guide number. I am not sure that has any > relevance to the actual guide number. > > 2)I am looking at this flash for Wedding and other > event photography. I have the AF-280-T, which I like > a lot,but I need more power. I like to use Reala > film, but with an ISO of 100, I find the AF-280-T > not quite sufficient. > > I will be using the flash with my PZ-1P. I also have > an LX but it is my understanding that the AF-500-FTZ > is not compatible with it. > > As always, thank you. Someday I hope to contribute > an answer and not just ask questions. > > Francis > __ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
AF-500-FTZ FLASH QUESTIONS
Hello. I have a couple of AF-500-FTZ questions: 1)Guide Number-164/ISO 100. Is 164 an accurate guide number for this flash? I realize that flash manufactures tend to over rate their guide number, but I thought I read a comment here that Pentax uses the flash zoom head at telephoto position to obtain the high guide number. I am not sure that has any relevance to the actual guide number. 2)I am looking at this flash for Wedding and other event photography. I have the AF-280-T, which I like a lot,but I need more power. I like to use Reala film, but with an ISO of 100, I find the AF-280-T not quite sufficient. I will be using the flash with my PZ-1P. I also have an LX but it is my understanding that the AF-500-FTZ is not compatible with it. As always, thank you. Someday I hope to contribute an answer and not just ask questions. Francis
RE: Flash questions
> Did anybody try or used Vivitar 730AF flash for Pentax? > > The spec claims lots of features for very little money, but is unclear > regarding Pentax model. > > Also, it seems to have 1/16 power mode. I tried to figure out, > how this can be > used? It looks like many f-stops (4?) below the meter reading, so it can > hardly be used for fill-flash. Or am I wrong? > > In general, how important are these power settings (1/2, 1/4, ) on > high-end flashes? Could they be used for flash exposure > compensation, or they > have diferent purpose? > > Thanks > Alex > adjustable power manual flash is very useful for adjusting the ambient/fill ratio when doing daylight fill flash. For example if you want a 1:1 ratio, choose a fstop/shutter speed for ambient light and then adjust flash power manually until it gives correct exposure with the fstop already in use. also allows extreme closeup work while keeping the f-stop managable with fast film. third less used feature is the very low power setting allows shortest possible flash duration which is desireable if your trying to freeze extremely fast action of some sort. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Flash questions
Did anybody try or used Vivitar 730AF flash for Pentax? The spec claims lots of features for very little money, but is unclear regarding Pentax model. Also, it seems to have 1/16 power mode. I tried to figure out, how this can be used? It looks like many f-stops (4?) below the meter reading, so it can hardly be used for fill-flash. Or am I wrong? In general, how important are these power settings (1/2, 1/4, ) on high-end flashes? Could they be used for flash exposure compensation, or they have diferent purpose? Thanks Alex - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Flash questions (Was: ZX-L
What exactly are high speed sync, P-TTL, flash exposure compensation and wireless TTL flash? More importantly, what advantage do they provide the photographer? Is there a tutorial someone can point me to? Thanks! Andrew Lawrence Kwan wrote: > On Tue, 30 Jul 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote: > > On a similar note, does anyone know if the ZX-L supports high speed > > flash synch like the MZ-S does. It is the combination of high speed > > synch and flash compensation that makes it so versatile for daylight > > flash fill. If the ZX-L does both, it would be quite a body at it's > > price point. > > Yes!! ZX-L/MZ-6 supports high speed sync, P-TTL, flash exposure > compensation and wireless TTL flash in combination with AF360FGZ. > So it has the same advanced flash system as MZ-S. > > -- > --Lawrence Kwan--SMS Info Service/Ringtone Convertor--PGP:finger/www-- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.vex.net/~lawrence/ -Key ID:0x6D23F3C4-- > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Flash questions
At 01:06 PM 11/21/01 -0500, you wrote: >You're both right. The head does drop, but unless you get it off the >camera hotshoe, the distance from the subject tends to make it a >"point source". Moving it closer (and stopping down, perhaps using >a tissue or two to permit it to shut off properly) makes for >more effective shots. Since I do a lot of macro and was thinking about the 280T, is there a problem with using it off-camera? Gary J. Sibio - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Flash questions
280T is a poor choice if you need macro, although if you take it off the hot shoe and mount it closer you might have good results. Kent Gittings -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pawel Czarnul Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 10:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Flash questions Hello, I have a couple of flash related questions. I'm using ZX-5n and P30T bodies. I need a flash for: macro photography as well as portraits (bounce and swivel options would be nice). It looks like the best choice is the 280T which has both TTL and manual modes and has all the features I want. B&H and Adorama sell them for 150$. What do you think of this price? Is there a better place to buy it (new)? One more question. Boz's site claims that the 220T is incompatible with manual bodies. Is that true? I know it offers TTL for ZX-5ns but what about the P30T? Thanks for your replies. Pawel _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . ** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses. www.mimesweeper.com ** - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Flash questions
The import version of the AF280T is available for < $120 at Focus Camera. I bought one, and it's exactly the same as the domestic version. Some people think that the warranty is invalid for import versions, but Focus says they will make good on any defect. Two points here: (1) a problem is unlikely, and (2) $120 isn't exactly a life-altering purchase, even if it went bad. John -Original Message- From: Pawel Czarnul [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 11:53 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Flash questions Hello, I have a couple of flash related questions. I'm using ZX-5n and P30T bodies. I need a flash for: macro photography as well as portraits (bounce and swivel options would be nice). It looks like the best choice is the 280T which has both TTL and manual modes and has all the features I want. B&H and Adorama sell them for 150$. What do you think of this price? Is there a better place to buy it (new)? One more question. Boz's site claims that the 220T is incompatible with manual bodies. Is that true? I know it offers TTL for ZX-5ns but what about the P30T? Thanks for your replies. Pawel _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Flash questions
Hello, I have a couple of flash related questions. I'm using ZX-5n and P30T bodies. I need a flash for: macro photography as well as portraits (bounce and swivel options would be nice). It looks like the best choice is the 280T which has both TTL and manual modes and has all the features I want. B&H and Adorama sell them for 150$. What do you think of this price? Is there a better place to buy it (new)? One more question. Boz's site claims that the 220T is incompatible with manual bodies. Is that true? I know it offers TTL for ZX-5ns but what about the P30T? Thanks for your replies. Pawel _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: MZ-S flash questions.
Nick, The way I read the manual (page 71 of the US manual) the metering remains on the central section when using the spot meter and does not follow the focus points. There is nothing in the operation of the MZ-S would lead me to believe that the metering follows the focus points in the spot metering mode. Page 91 of the manual says that the high speed sync can be used in the wireless mode. Darryl Nicholas Wright wrote: > A couple of questions concerning the use of flash with > the MZ-S. It has been said that the metering can be > linked to the active autofocus point; is this also the > case with flash metering, or is there only central > flash sensor (like the z1p)? Also, does anyone know > yet if the wireless TTL flash function can be used > with the high-speed sync? Thank you very much for your > time. > > Nick > > __ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
MZ-S flash questions.
A couple of questions concerning the use of flash with the MZ-S. It has been said that the metering can be linked to the active autofocus point; is this also the case with flash metering, or is there only central flash sensor (like the z1p)? Also, does anyone know yet if the wireless TTL flash function can be used with the high-speed sync? Thank you very much for your time. Nick __ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro Ring Flash Questions
3. Yes. You'll need some side lighting to eliminate the flat light with a ring flash without separate light quadrants. Ken Waller - Original Message - From: Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 1:34 PM Subject: Macro Ring Flash Questions > I'm considering a macro ring flash, mainly for flower photography. This > is just an occasional application, so I can't justify to myself the > price of Pentax's unit. Phoenix/Vivitar offer one at a better price. I > do have some questions: > > 1. Has anyone tried the Phoenix/Vivitar unit? > > 2. This unit lacks variable power output. Will this matter for very > close-up macro work, or will the TTL function take care of power output? > > 3. The unit lacks separate light quadrants. Will this produce flat > results? > > 4. How well does a ring flash work on a lens with a rotating front > element (my FA 100 f2.8 macro)? > > Thanks for the help, > > Joe > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . > > - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Macro Ring Flash Questions
- Original Message - From: "Joseph Tainter" Subject: Macro Ring Flash Questions > I'm considering a macro ring flash, mainly for flower photography. This > is just an occasional application, so I can't justify to myself the > price of Pentax's unit. Phoenix/Vivitar offer one at a better price. I > do have some questions: > > 1. Has anyone tried the Phoenix/Vivitar unit? Not me, I use the AF080T. > > 2. This unit lacks variable power output. Will this matter for very > close-up macro work, or will the TTL function take care of power output? I think TTL is made for macro work. I have never missed the lack of power output settings on my ringlight. > > 3. The unit lacks separate light quadrants. Will this produce flat > results? Possibly, however, it is amazing what creative control you have by adding small bits of black tape to portions of the flash tube cover. > > 4. How well does a ring flash work on a lens with a rotating front > element (my FA 100 f2.8 macro)? The flash should rotate on its mount, so shouldn't cause problems. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
