[RBW] Do you friction or indexed?

2012-08-11 Thread Dave Craig
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[RBW] SH/AHH sizing question

2012-02-27 Thread Dave Craig
I'm 188cm with a pbh of 94cm. I ride a 65cm AHH. I run the bars at the same 
height as the saddle. I've found that I need to run a short dirt drop stem to 
be comfortable on the bike. The top tube still feels long for me - the top tube 
feels long on every modern bike I ride sized according to RBW recommendations. 
The seat and bar height is spot on, but the reach feels too stretched out. It 
doesn't help that my femurs are really long. To get the right orientation to my 
pedals, I have to use a long setback seat post with Brooks saddles. I'm also 
using Nitto noodles - also exacerbating the reach issue. It might be worth the 
wait to you to go custom. I wish I had. FYI, I've owned 4 Riv's, a 64 Atlantis, 
a 60 bombadil, a 64 Quickbeam and the 65 AHH. The QB fits the best of the bunch 
and the Atlantis was a close second. The top tubes on those were both 60cm. I 
still have the QB and, unfortunately, sold the Atlantis to buy the AHH.

Dave

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[RBW] Threadless Stem Adaptors

2012-02-13 Thread Dave Craig
I've used both the VO adapters and the Nitto. Both were fine. I liked the look 
of the Nitto adapter better and the VO allows more room to raise the bars.

Used both on heavily loaded touring Riv's. On a touring bike, I found that 
these stems made packing the bike for travel a bit easier. 

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam/SO Gearing Help

2011-08-23 Thread Dave Craig
My set up is nearly the same as Charlie's - just with lower gearing.

36/32 front 16/19 rear. I live in the mountains so the lower range works better 
for me. Incidentally, my setup offers nearly the same range as the stock QB 
gearing of 40/32 x 18. I ride around town in 36x16. I only use the lower 
gearing when I have a long mountain climb or I'm commuting with a load - 
although I can't remember the last time I actually switched gears. With a one 
tooth difference between tine gear set ups, my fender line looks great and my 
axle runs about midway in the slot.

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[RBW] Stem raisers

2011-08-11 Thread Dave Craig
Tom

Check out bike Friday bicycles. With good materials, there can be quite an 
extension.


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[RBW] Re: Thumbies vs BEs

2011-06-23 Thread Dave Craig
I do have experience with this change-including changes made to the
same bikes and my stable of bikes with DT   shifters, BE's, brifters
and thumbies.

There's no magic bullet. The issue is one of technique and
anticipation. On my touring bike, the closest approximation I have to
your situation with the tandem, my strategy for rolling hills is to
downshift just before or in the valleys then coast until I can spin
comfortably up the hill. On a loaded tourer, momentum is lost quickly.
I imagine the situation is the same on a tandem. At the top of the
hill, if I'm not simply going to coast down the other side, I upshift.
I seldom go into the big ring. This isn't racing technique, but it
works just fine for casual riding.

I've found my preference for touring to be barend shifters. My left
thumb got really sore using thumbies on my last, long tour.





On Jun 23, 6:20 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am considering a switch to thumbies on our tandem.  I am finding the
 BEs too slow on the tandem for the kind of rolling hills of Vt, which
 require a lot of fast, double shifts to attack hills that often swing
 from minus to plus 10%.  The long cables, long rear derailleur cage,
 and the need to move each separately from the shifter back to the bar
 before I can reach for the other shifter causes too much delay and I
 end up with too much pressure to drop the chain, or I shift early and
 we end up spinning wildly, or even dropping the chain all together.

 Does anyone have any experience going from one to the other on a road
 bike, that they can share.  I suppose the other option is to ride more
 on the drops, where I can reach the shifters faster.

 Michael
 Westford, Vt

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[RBW] Re: The bike collection (or hoard?)

2011-06-18 Thread Dave Craig
For the true addict there is always (n + 1) = number of bikes to own.
Where n is the number of bikes currently in the garage.

In my queue as +1 candidates: Bike Friday, Salsa Fargo, SS MTB.

My current hoard is:

Rivendell AHH (65cm) - set up as a comfortable road bike with drops.
Rivendell Bombadil (60cm) - with bullmoose bars. My MTB and off road
explorer.
Rivendell Quickbeam (64cm) - drop bars, fenders, racks and a front
basket. My favorite commuter
Surly 62cm, 26-inch wheel tourer. Drop bars, fully racked and
fendered. My favorite tourer ever (including Atlantis and Bombadil).
Surly Big Dummy bar ends and riser bars (2x8 gearing) - My SUV
commuter, grocery getter, rain bike and semi truck (with a burly
trailer)
Soma Smoothie ES - (64cm). Light wheels, skinny tires - go fast
Surly Crosscheck (62cm) - Frankenbike loaner.

Yup . . . that's seven.

Dave


On Jun 18, 6:57 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Three.  Rivendell Sam Hillborne.  Was sort of iffy on it earlier this
 year, but decided it will stick around.
 Surly Cross Check.  Set up as a 1x9 with Soma Clarence bars. My
 beater.  Also the newest of the bikes.
 Surly Long Haul Trucker.  58cm 26 wheel model.  I like the idea of a
 larger frame 26 wheel touring bike.  Gets studded tires in winter.

 Am currently selling my Salsa Fargo.  Have discovered that long gravel
 rides and my left hand are not a good combination.  A week after a 110
 mile ride my left hand still hurts and has a bit of hand in glove
 symptoms.

 All above bikes have fenders and racks.

 Wish list - SimpleOne.  Yes, spacers and a single speed cog would work
 on the Cross Check.  Still want the SimpleOne as I like the color.

 Strangely enough, still feel my current stable is excessive.  But not
 sure I could cut it down any further.  Luck for me, my wife is
 understanding.  And only wants one bike of her own.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jun 18, 6:41 pm, Rob robha...@gmail.com wrote:



  Wow--I am SO far behind. ;) I just have one bike, my 62cm 650B Saluki. I'd
  amend the grand seven-bike list a bit to six, in descending order of
  likelihood I'll ever own 'em: city, roughstuff, single-speed, cargo,
  vintage, tandem.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: New SimpleOne owners, how are you liking the Dos Eno?

2011-06-17 Thread Dave Craig
I'm running the 16/19 with 32/36 in front on my QB. This gives me
about the same range as stock (40/32 with a single 18t freewheel) with
a dandy looking fender line, great chainline, a bailout gear AND easy
wheel removal. I only use the 16/36 and 19/32 combos. I live in a
pretty hilly town and I've used my QB on mountain rides with this set
up. If I lived somewhere flat, I'd definitely gear up.

Dave

On Jun 17, 11:02 am, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
 My Q has been in single speed mode, vs fixed gear mode, for more than
 a 
 year.http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/2760281945/in/set-721576074...
 I am using the 17-19 Dos Eno and that would work for you, though it
 would be quite low gearing. I am using the 17-19 with a 39-45 up front
 which is not the most efficient use of the DosEno as the small-large
 and large-small are the same gear inches. But it gives me three useful
 gears: 72-63-55 inches. Like other owners, I rarely shift (out of the
 72 inch gear) and prefer to grunt until absolutely necessary.

 On the other (flop) side is a 23T freewheel that gives me a bailout
 gear of 46 inches. I have only used that gear twice for climbs into
 the Colorado National Monument. Both times I swore I would never use
 the Q for that ride again as I hate to flip-flop on the side of the
 road. Its been long enough that I am about ready to do it again

 On Jun 17, 9:59 am, Rob H. robhua...@gmail.com wrote:



  The 16t/19t White Industries DOS ENO freewheel seems to be sold out on
  Riv's website so there must be a lot of SimpleOne owners who are now
  installing these on their wheels. Does anyone know if are able to get
  all four gear/chainring combinations between the 16/19 and the Sugino
  40/32? I'm interested in this setup but only if i can get all four
  combinaions. Otherwise I think I'll just go simpler and have 18t as
  the main cog and 22t on the flip side of a free/free rear wheel.- Hide 
  quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Trangia cook kits

2011-06-13 Thread Dave Craig
The fuel canisters are sometimes considered hazardous waste. The
canisters are recyclable, though they must be prepared appropriately.
Make sure the canister is truly empty by attaching it to the stove one
more time and running it dry. Then, use the awl on a knife or a nail
to puncture the top of the can. Lastly, flatten the can with a hammer.
This prep makes it clear that there is no gas remaining in the
canister and it can be legally  recycled with other metals.

The usual precautions apply- wear eye protection, don't stick yourself
and be sure the can is empty. We recycle dozens of these canisters in
our outdoor program every year without any issues.

DC

On Jun 13, 1:37 pm, dmolloy danielmarkmol...@googlemail.com wrote:
 I think that the spent canisters may be recyclable, but would imagine
 that most end up in landfills :(

 On Jun 13, 12:46 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  Prior to the Trangia, I used a small Snow Peak canister stove, and
  always was worried that my half used canister might run out, so I


  Ha! That's exactly my situation. I love my Snow Peak stove but I
  always carry an extra canister for just that reason. In fact, last
  week my first cannister, which was partially used ran out. Good thing
  I brought the second one.

  I think I probably will invest in teh Trangia, seems a really
  worthwhile investment, especially if one wants to do some real
  cooking. I'll probably pick one up before the Aug tour.

  I know this is a dum question but I'll just put it out there... how do
  I dispose of the spent canister?

  --mike

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[RBW] Re: Bike Tour Stuff.

2011-04-24 Thread Dave Craig
Manny

The average weight for our tours is about 40 pounds each, including
the weight of the panniers, for my wife and I. That allows us to carry
more when we wish to. For example, carrying six packs of beer or a
watermelon to camp from the last store. I seldom use a handlebar bag
and, unless I'm carrying extra food, I never have a load on top of any
rack. Everything I carry fits in my panniers. Packing for a nice tour?
Our last tour was Seattle, WA to Klamath Falls, OR along the spine of
the Cascades. Pretty nice!

Dave

On Apr 23, 10:21 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 As I get ready to pack for my third bike tour. I start doing my
 traditional pre-bike tour rituals.
 I shave my mustache. (Something I'm not quite fond of doing. Because
 it makes me look younger than I really I am.)
 I lay out all my gear and take a picture. ( Because if you don't take
 a picture of it. It never really happened)
 Then I upload the picture. ( Because I'm vain.)

 As I look at my previous pre-bike tour pictures I see the evolution of
 gear as the time goes by. Starting from not knowing what to pack, to
 packing too much and then not really caring what to pack. Not having a
 scale but being a darn good guess-a-mater I'm putting the weight
 between twenty to a hundred pounds.(Remember I'm a PE teacher not a
 math teacher.)
 Curious whats the average weight for packing for a nice tour?
 -Manny

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[RBW] Re: noisy front hub

2011-02-24 Thread Dave Craig
How about side to side play in the hub? If you grab the tire and
wiggle the wheel side to side (while the wheel is mounted) you can
tell if that's the issue. Compare the front wheel to the rear to see
what the appropriate amount of play should be (none). Phil hubs have a
couple of end caps that screw down onto the axle. If you have side to
side play, these have come loose. It is a simple job to tighten these
up with a hex wrench.

DC

On Feb 23, 2:26 pm, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:
 are you sure it's even the wheel that is emitting the sound? the sound you
 describe does not sound like worn hub bearings.



 On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 1:31 PM, james meine...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have some phil wood hubs on my sam hillborne and a while back the
  front one got real noisy making some clinking and clanking.  I thought
  at first if i trued the wheel ever so slightly that would help, but
  no, and i thought i would remove breaks and fenders just to make sure,
  but the clinking and clanking went on.  then it went away for a little
  while, so i din't worry about it.  then it came back.  currently
  (today and yesterday) its gone again... but i'm wondering, should i
  buy some phil wood bearings and replace them?  is this very
  difficult?  i looked through the walkthrough pdf they have on their
  site and it looks easy.  can it be done with the hub still laced up?

  any info appreciated!

  james

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts and experiences with 48cm Noodles?

2011-02-24 Thread Dave Craig
Mike

I have this pretty much this same build: LHT 26 wheels, 62cm frame,
48cm noodles. The 48cm noodles are perfect for the bike.

I've toured on an Atlantis and a Bombadil. They are both great bikes.
I like the LHT better for loaded touring. It is very capable. Though I
still don't like locking my bike up and leaving it unattended on tour,
the LHT is more easily replaceable and cheaper than my Bombadil. With
fenders and larger tires, I don't think it's odd looking at all. In
fact, I've gotten lots of compliments on the LHT.

Dave

On Feb 22, 11:06 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm planning on putting together a touring/camping bike this year and
 kicking around the idea of using 48cm Noodle handlebars. I've been
 using the 46s for years now and love them but when touring on them
 there have been times when I found myself wishing they were a tad
 wider, especially when climbing. I'm 6' and broad shouldered. I have a
 feeling the perceived drawbacks to using them are more mental and
 cosmetic. What are folks experiences with using them?

 Last year I sold my Rambouillet frame with the intention of using the
 funds for a Hunqapillar or maybe a Hillborne. I've taken my time in
 trying to make a decision and am starting to lean more towards an LHT.
 Yes, a far lesser bike but very capable and something I'm more
 inclined to feel comfortable locking up around town. I'd probably get
 a 60cm frame with the 26 wheels so with 48cm bars it would certainly
 be an odd looking bike but probably very practical. Who knows though,
 those new pictures of the SH really have the wheels in my head
 spinning. And I do like to support RBW.

 Thanks,
 mike

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[RBW] Re: Introduction to Bike Touring course

2011-02-24 Thread Dave Craig
Awesome, René!

I did the ACA tour leader training and I found it to be a lot of fun.
The leaders were very knowledgeable, yet humble, and I really enjoyed
learning more about the ACA.

As a counterpoint to Kelly, I think the most important thing is to
pack light. To me, the extra comforts mean that I might think twice
about enticing side roads or stopping at a fruit stand to stock up on
the way to camp. Everything I pack fits inside my Ortlieb front and
rear panniers. I don't usually have anything on top of my racks and I
don't often use a handlebar bag.

Your rack set up seems fine to me. Unless you already have them, the
Arkel panniers you mention are heavy and a little complex for my
tastes - to each his own. It seems that whenever I see someone with
that particular pannier set, they are carrying far more than I would.

As for training, go with your body. Ride as much as possible, but not
to the point of pain. The ACA folks are used to dealing with middle-
aged folks who aren't super athletes - you'll do fine if you just ride
as much as possible. In prepping for a tour, I seldom have the time to
ride as much as I'd like, so I substitute fast commuting with the
occasional long, slow ride to add mileage and time in the saddle.
Funny, I've never, ever trained with my panniers on before any tour -
that seems like a good idea, but my butt is always the limiting factor
at the beginning of a tour, not my endurance.

Dave
(also 51)


On Feb 24, 3:22 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have signed up with the Adventure Cycling Association to do their
 Introduction to Bike Touring course in May in Eugene, 
 OR.http://www.adventurecycling.org/tours/tourdetail.cfm?t=EDU11id=249p=1

 I am going to do it on my Atlantis, so it's Riv related, and thought that
 there might perhaps be some other people in this group who would be
 interested in joining. Not that you can't just do it on your own, but I
 figured it would be worth for me to get some formal education/training and
 support to go on this adventure. I also got my wife in a weak moment to
 agree that this was going to be my 51st birthday present. Birthday was in
 January, and I'm really looking forward to this experience.

 Any advise or suggestions from the touring experts in this group regarding
 stuff to take/leave, packing suggestions, etc., will be much appreciated.
 For now, my plan is to use the Nitto Big Rear Rack and my Tubus Nova low
 rider that allows me to keep the Nitto Mini front rack on the Atlantis. I
 also have a Nitto Big Front rack, but am not sure it would be superior to
 the Mini/Nova combo. A set of rear GT-54 and front GT-42 would complete the
 setup, in addition to the Acorn Boxy Rando Bag on the Nitto Mini.

 The area where I'm mostly clueless about, but will learn during this course,
 is how much clothes, bike shorts, underwear, etc. to bring. I know it's very
 easy to overpack.

 I've started training for this event where I'll be biking about 50 miles per
 day for four consecutive days. At this time my longest rides have been 20
 milers since my body ailments result in pain that doesn't allow me to ride
 for longer. Still, I'm pushing slowly and trying to get those problems fixed
 with fit tweaks and chiropractic work. I'm basically trying to design daily
 commutes via Caltrain and bike to accomodate this training plan, but there
 are always business trips and other issues that disrupt it. If anyone has
 any good suggestions for a structured training plan to reach my goal of
 being able to do the four day 50 mile rides, I'd be interested. As it
 currently stands, my average speed with my commuting load is around 10 mph.
 With the fully loaded bike, I don't even want to know yet. All I do is
 figure that I'll have to be on the saddle for about 6 hours every day for
 four days... and my body starts hurting! Yet, I remain very optimistic and
 my new diet plan has been working so I've been losing some weight. I believe
 that my best chances to improve are tied to how much weight I can lose
 before the tour starts, as that will allow me to ride faster (less saddle
 hours) and also fit better on the bike.

 René

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[RBW] 65cm A Homer Hilsen PICS

2011-02-09 Thread Dave Craig
Hi, Folks

I finally got around to posting pics of my Hilsen. This bike replaced
the 64cm Atlantis I sold to another list member. I took some of the
ideas I liked about the set up on the Atlantis and I used those parts
on the Hilsen:

Indexed 9 speed Shimano Dura-ace DT shifters
Ultegra front and rear derailleurs
12-28 rear gearing
48/36/26 Sugino Crankset
Maroon Cloth HB Tape
Acorn Bag
Brown Hooded Cane Creek levers
VO pedals with Power Grips
Jack Brown Tires

It's pretty much perfect for the mountainous road rides around here.
As I get the cash together, I'll probably switch out the wheels for
something with a little more bling than the functional XT hubs and
Salsa Delgado Cross 32h rims.

Here's the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis seatpost binder bolt nut size

2011-02-05 Thread Dave Craig
Wally

I believe that's a stainless M6 hex head approx 19mm long - don't
forget the stainless nylock nut to match - I carry a spare in my
touring pack.

Dave

On Feb 4, 9:24 pm, Wally wwer...@gmail.com wrote:
 For a nice quiet winter project, I took apart my Atlantis to clean it
 really well and somehow managed to misplace the seatpost binder bolt
 and nut.

 I know, you would have thought I'd have put all of the small parts in
 little zip loc bags and marked each of them with a Sharpie where they
 went, right? Well,I did. But the bag with the seatpost binder bolt is
 gone.

 Does anyone know off the top of their head (no need to disassemble
 your bike) what the proper size of that nut and bolt are?

 Thanks for your help!

 Wally

 p.s.: And yes, I'm sure the bolt will turn up just the moment I return
 from the store with a replacement.

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread Dave Craig
Gary

I weigh 205 and I run the stock 26 rims on my Long Haul Trucker with
Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (26x50). As I wrote in another post, the
fatter tires are now my choice for all loaded tours.

I know you didn't ask about your choice of 40h rims, but I thought I
might add some unsolicited advice. I have never had a well-built, 36-
hole wheel fail on a tour - poor stock rims, yes - but not handbuilt
wheels. I think lots of folks make the assumption that more is better
for expeditioning. A 40 hole rim seems way overbuilt for front wheels
for someone your size. With a 26-inch wheel, 40h in the rear also
seems excessive. Here's another consideration: I had a nice, custom
40h rear wheel on my Bombadil during one tour. When the rim self-
destructed due to a manufacturing defect, I was hard-pressed to find
an easily available replacement rim on which I could use my expensive
40h hub. I ended up using a cheap ( $100) 36h wheel for the last half
of the tour and it worked just as well as the $400 wheel it replaced.
Save yourself some money for panniers, etc. You could go with a
cheaper front wheel at least.

With tires as nice as the Scwalbe Supremes and the versatility of
fatter tires, I really don't see any reason to run thinner tires for
loaded touring or rough riding unless your bike won't accommodate the
fat ones.

Dave

On Jan 28, 2:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:
 I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
 feedback. The wheels will be 26, used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4,
 bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
 maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.

 24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
 minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?

 What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
 (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.

 What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.

 I'm needing to pick my poison.

 Thanks,

 Gary

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread Dave Craig
Joel

I agree. It is a matter of preference. I love having nice parts on my
bikes whenever possible. Perhaps you are also right that the weight of
4 more spokes is insignificant. I haven't compared the weights of my
40h and 36h rear wheels, so I don't know. I also agree that choosing
what goes into your panniers is the most significant factor in overall
weight (other than body weight). However, aren't 40h hubs (Phil or
otherwise) generally quite a bit more expensive than 36h Shimano XT's?
The latter work just fine for extended touring. For folks on any kind
of a budget, who want to have strong, functional gear, it makes sense
not to overbuild with expensive parts when less expensive, but good
quality parts will do.

In my field (adventure/outdoor education), I see a lot of folks,
mainly middle-aged people like me, who delay their dream adventures in
order to purchase the best tools for those adventures. The cost for
many is having to work longer to pay for the experience instead of
taking the TIME for the actual experience. Sadly, for some people,
planning and buying gear is the extent of their progress towards their
dream trip. That said, I also think that planning and buying gear are
fun and valid parts of the overall experience of adventuring - but
they're not THE adventure.

OK, I'm ranging waaay off topic here and I'll stop.

Gary, did you get your answer??

Dave

On Feb 4, 8:49 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
  done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels.

 It is a matter of preference.  40h rims are not more expensive than
 36h.  A lot of choices on what goes into the panniers are going to
 have far more impact on weight than 4 spokes.

 I certainly do not think having 40h wheels are a critical for my
 completing a tour.  But overkill meaning what?  Not like I have lost
 anything having them.  As my 40h wheels are built around smooth
 rolling Maxicar hubs, I get a plush ride few wheelsets can match.

 On Feb 4, 9:38 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:



  I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
  done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels. I weigh about 190lbs .If
  you use good stiff rims ( Dyad's in my case), thr right spokes and fat
  tires a 36 hole rim is plenty.

  ~Mike

  On Feb 4, 7:29 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

   Gary

   I weigh 205 and I run the stock 26 rims on my Long Haul Trucker with
   Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (26x50). As I wrote in another post, the
   fatter tires are now my choice for all loaded tours.

   I know you didn't ask about your choice of 40h rims, but I thought I
   might add some unsolicited advice. I have never had a well-built, 36-
   hole wheel fail on a tour - poor stock rims, yes - but not handbuilt
   wheels. I think lots of folks make the assumption that more is better
   for expeditioning. A 40 hole rim seems way overbuilt for front wheels
   for someone your size. With a 26-inch wheel, 40h in the rear also
   seems excessive. Here's another consideration: I had a nice, custom
   40h rear wheel on my Bombadil during one tour. When the rim self-
   destructed due to a manufacturing defect, I was hard-pressed to find
   an easily available replacement rim on which I could use my expensive
   40h hub. I ended up using a cheap ( $100) 36h wheel for the last half
   of the tour and it worked just as well as the $400 wheel it replaced.
   Save yourself some money for panniers, etc. You could go with a
   cheaper front wheel at least.

   With tires as nice as the Scwalbe Supremes and the versatility of
   fatter tires, I really don't see any reason to run thinner tires for
   loaded touring or rough riding unless your bike won't accommodate the
   fat ones.

   Dave

   On Jan 28, 2:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:

I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
feedback. The wheels will be 26, used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4,
bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.

24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?

What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
(pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.

What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.

I'm needing to pick my poison.

Thanks,

Gary- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Supremes for mild off-road (non-pavement)

2011-02-03 Thread Dave Craig
I've been using the Supremes for loaded touring for two summers now -
on and off road. I've used 26x50 and 700x50 on a Long Haul Trucker and
Bombadil, respectively, and they are wonderful. The extra cush factor
dampens road vibration and soaks up rim damaging bumps. I've become a
total fat tire convert for loaded touring.

I've had one flat in about 1600 miles even though I ride with abandon
through all the roadside crap - I'm not careful at all. In fact, I
tend to seek out bad conditions just to see what the tires can take!
It's a far cry from the old days when I'd fret about riding through
patches of glass and I'd dread taking my road touring bike on gravel
roads.

Last summer we took an unpaved route option on the Adventure Cycling
Sierra Cascades route. While Pamela was challenged riding her 700x32
Pasela's over some of the loose stuff we encountered, I cruised easily
with the 26x50's.

Dave

On Feb 2, 6:45 pm, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:
 How capable are the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes for mild non-pavement
 riding -- e.g., gravel roads, crushed rock rail trails, and the like?
 Thanks,  -- Forrest (in immediate-post-blizzard Iowa City)

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group

2011-01-12 Thread Dave Craig
Hey all

Here are some pics of a 60cm loaded touring Bombadil (mine). It is a
very good tall and heavy guy's touring bike.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45341...@n04/page2/

DC - 94pbh/205 pounds.

On Jan 11, 12:04 pm, LouisvillePatrick flightofthebomba...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hey Bobby,
 Don't have the time at the moment to upload a picture.  Will later
 tonight.  But here's how it worked out:
 Tires:
 -Marathons. 50lb pressure. Take no chances.  46mm.

 Racks:
 -Old Man Mountain Extreme front Lowrider, skewer mounted.
 -Old Man Mountain Sherpa rear rack, skewer mounted.

 Bags:
 -Sackville Medium zip tied to top of rear rack and B-17
 -Jandd Mini Mountain pannier bags hanging on rear rack
 -Ortleib full size rollers on the front lowrider.
 -tent poles strapped to back of the sackville and remaining space of
 rear rack.

 Misc:
 -Three full Sig bottles in the cages and Camelback strapped over the
 Sackville on the rear rack.  Three bottles were NO WHERE NEAR enough
 for a day's ride in the Mountains of Washington.  We had no idea where
 we'd find water, so we brought it with us.

 I'll post a pic soon.  It worked like a dream.  So stable.  Plenty
 fast and nimble for what we were doing.  60-70 miles per day.  Massive
 climbs.  The frame didn't make a peep.

 More info than you probably wanted, but I can't say enough about the
 Bomba for touring.

 Patrick

 On Jan 11, 12:53 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  Patrick:

  Do you have pics of your loaded Bomba?  I'd be curious to hear how you
  distributed weight.

  Thx,

  Bobby Not Quite Tall Enough at 6'1 Birmingham

  On Jan 11, 8:41 am, LouisvillePatrick flightofthebomba...@gmail.com
  wrote:

   I'm 6'4, 280 lb.  96cm PBH

   64cm Bomba (maybe should have gotten a 60. When I put on the Small
   Block 8's, there isn't much room for bailout over the top tube.
   Absolutely brilliant for fully loaded touring, though.)
   67cm Hilsen (should be delivered tomorrow!)

   I've found that the double top tube is the secret to my success and
   frame longevity.  I've grown to love the look.  The stiffness and
   support improvement is indisputable.

   I've toured, fully loaded, self-supported, on the Bomba every summer
   since I got it.  I've put close to 90 pounds on it with absolutely no
   problem.  Happy to discuss my touring experience with anyone!

   Patrick- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group

2011-01-12 Thread Dave Craig
Thanks, Mike.

The QB is a 64cm bike. I've added a nitto big rack to the back since
the photos were taken. It's my favorite commute bike.

Dave

On Jan 12, 8:42 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey Dave, that's a really nice Bombadil you have there. What size is
 your QB. Our QB set-ups are very similar.

 For the group, here's a picture of Patrick's Bombadil. I was in the
 Gorge last summer with my wife and we stopped at Multnomah Falls. I
 was going to get a cup of coffee, saw some touring cyclist mulling
 around and figured I'd talk to them when I noticed their bikes and saw
 Patrick's Bombadil. It looked fantastic all decked out for touring.
 Ironically, about 2 months later I was on a mini tour doing the same
 route Patrick had just finished but in the opposite direction and at
 right at the bottom of Old Man Pass this couple comes bombing down the
 hill and the guy was clearly on a Bombadil. We didn't talk but it was
 so funny to see that. Anyway, here's Patrick's Bombadil:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/4887334470/

 --mike (who is too short for the tall riders group but might be
 appropriate for a medium height long legged wide helmet wearing
 rider's group)

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[RBW] Re: Hammer strike bell question

2011-01-10 Thread Dave Craig
It is possible to bend the spring away from the bell so that it
doesn't ring on bumpy rides. I've done that on my bike. Of course, not
everybody is annoyed by a bell that rings on bumps. My wife actually
likes it on her bike. Different strokes, er . . .strikes, for
different folks.

Dave

On Jan 9, 8:19 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 As far as i know it's not removable. But I suggest the hammer over the
 spring tho. Over the course of bumpy rides the spring can get
 annoying.

 On Jan 9, 4:30 pm, Doug Van Cleve dvancl...@gmail.com wrote:



  Howdy folks.

  Can the RBW hammer strike bell be removed from the bar clamp?  The catalog
  makes it sound like it cannot, but the very similar bell that Velo Orange
  sells can be mounted on a spacer.  I would rather get the bell from RBW, all
  things being equal, but I want to spacer mount it.  Anybody know for sure?

  Thanks, Doug

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group

2011-01-07 Thread Dave Craig
Robert:

Perhaps you could be more specific. Do you have questions or
observations? What are you hoping that us longshanks will share?
What's the Riv-related content?

DC
(6'2;37-inch PBH;ape arms;size 14 feet; 65cm Hilsen;60cm Bombadil;
64cm Quickbeam)

On Jan 7, 6:24 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 OK, Have at it!!!  Who's first?

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[RBW] Re: BB width for a White Industries double on a quickbeam

2010-11-12 Thread Dave Craig
Erik

Are you running a white double freewheel on the back as well? I sure
like the look of that crank and it seems the QB is meant for it.

Dave

On Nov 12, 5:16 pm, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
 I ran a 103, no problem with the 38x35 or thereabouts.

 erik





 On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hello list,

  Have you put a White Industries road double on your Quickbeam? If so,
  what BB spindle width did you use?

  I'm aiming to significantly reduce the Q, but keep the same gearing.

  Thanks,
  Gino

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[RBW] Re: BB width for a White Industries double on a quickbeam

2010-11-12 Thread Dave Craig
Thanks, Erik,

The parts are enticing, but building new wheels for my Hilsen is my
current bike project. I must resist any other temptations until that
project is paid for and completed!

Dave

On Nov 12, 5:31 pm, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yes indeed,

 I should add I have the double freewheel, and the matching front chainring,
 that are both lightly used (i only ran this for a couple months right before
 I sold my quickbeam) -- if anyone wants them, they can have it for a song.
 Say the cost of the freewheel alone.

 I converted to the VBC chainring, with the arrival of the hunqa.

 And yes, it's a wonderful setup.

 Cheers,

 erik





 On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 4:21 PM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
  Erik

  Are you running a white double freewheel on the back as well? I sure
  like the look of that crank and it seems the QB is meant for it.

  Dave

  On Nov 12, 5:16 pm, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote:
   I ran a 103, no problem with the 38x35 or thereabouts.

   erik

   On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello list,

Have you put a White Industries road double on your Quickbeam? If so,
what BB spindle width did you use?

I'm aiming to significantly reduce the Q, but keep the same gearing.

Thanks,
Gino

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[RBW] Re: Bar-end Cable Routing?

2010-10-25 Thread Dave Craig
Patrick:

If you're running the cable housing outside of the tape, there's
really no reason to have any part of it taped. My BE shifter cable
housing runs from the pods to the DT cable stops completely outside of
the tape. That would buy you a little more tangle-free area on the
drops.

Dave

On Oct 25, 7:47 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Do you feel any additional friction so routing the cables? If not, I
 may have to do this on the one bike with BES -- not that it's a huge
 deal, but my fingers tend to get very slightly tangled in the housing
 as it escapes from the tape just for'ard of the shifter pods (I ride
 this bike in the hooks a good part of the time.)

 On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 6:17 AM, Montclair BobbyB





 montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
  Kevin:

  I always route them up to the stem... Personally I like the look much
  better.  It usually requires extra long cables (I use tandem cables,
  and I cut my own housing to length).  So check your length and make
  sure you've got enough cable to route it this way; otherwise you'll
  have to get longer cable.  Good luck.

  On Oct 25, 1:40 am, Kevin Turinsky kjturin...@mac.com wrote:
  I'm considering rerouting my derailleur cables from my bar-end
  shifters, under the tape, all the way up the bars, just like my brake
  cables. The reason I'm thinking of doing this is because then the
  cables and my Berthoud bag will no longer have to quarrel.

  Anyone already done this? Any tips? Any hobgoblins to look out for?
  Photos?

  Thanks.

  Kevin Turinsky
  RUSA RBA - Alaska
  alaskarandonneurs.org
  The Big Wild Ride - Alaska's 1200K

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[RBW] Re: Derailleur Cabling

2010-10-23 Thread Dave Craig
My opinion is that it really isn't a big deal to run the cables bare
under the BB. I recently stripped down my Atlantis for sale. I had
been running bare cables for several years. As I inspected the frame
before shipping, I noted that the paint was barely worn under the BB,
let alone any metal. The BB shell is a thick, sturdy, piece of metal.
It is unlikely to suffer any significant damage from the smooth, thin,
stainless gear cables. My new Hilsen is also unprotected and I'm fine
with that.

Enjoying unprotected shifting,

Dave

On Oct 23, 11:31 am, kevin lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com wrote:
 Are the derailleur cables on my Bleriot meant to run bare under the
 bottom bracket, or should there be something between the wire and the
 paint?  The guides don't seem to be wide enough to accept cable
 housing, but it's hard for me to believe that the paint down there is
 going to hold up very long against the sawing motion of the derailleur
 cables.
 Any comments would be appreciated.
 Thanks,
 Kevin

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[RBW] Re: Swift Industries Panniers

2010-10-19 Thread Dave Craig
The folks who run Swift Industries are friends of mine.

It is a cottage industry operated by two people, Jason and Martina,
who are committed environmentalists, bike commuters and bike
advocates. They were instrumental in starting the community bike
workshop at our college. If you are interested in supporting a small,
sustainable businesses in general, and small bike businesses in
particular, then this is the ticket. I also know that they will
customize their products for their customers.

Dave

On Oct 19, 10:14 am, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 It was a recent post by another list member that coaxed me over to
 Swift Industries where I found the Mini- panniers in waxed canvas.  I
 really like the style and the versatile design.  Does anyone else on
 this list have any first-hand experience or knowledge about these
 products, particularly the waxed canvas models?  Any other comments
 also appreciated.  Here's the link:

 http://swiftindustries.wordpress.com/choose-your-colors/new-mini-pann...

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[RBW] FS: Misc Garage Sale Items

2010-10-17 Thread Dave Craig
Hi, Folks:

I'm cleaning out our garage today and downsizing my bike stuff. I'm
hoping to generate enough cash for a new wheel for my Hilsen. All
items are used and in good condition and as noted below. Payment via
PayPal - Shipping is not included.

Rivendell/Duluth Waxed Canvas Banana Bag - road worn  faded otherwise
in good condition - no holes or tears - 25.00

Park PRS-5 Professional Race Repair Stand - in great condition with
carrying bag - $90.00

Stems: Nitto UI-5EX threadless, polished silver 9cm and 11cm - 11cm
stem has some scratches but both are in good shape with little use -
15.00 each; Nitto Technomic Deluxe quill stem - 9cm - scratches from
insertion, but low miles and in very good condition - $25.

Pletscher/ESGE silver double legged stand - silver. Never cut.
Installed briefly and removed. - 25.00

FULL SET: Black, Ortlieb Classic Roller Panniers (front and rear) and
Handlebar bag (without mount) - used and in good condition - $150 for
everything.

Jandd Front Mountain Panniers, Black - 50.00 for the set.

Please contact me via reply to author.

Thanks,

Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS: Misc Garage Sale Items

2010-10-17 Thread Dave Craig
WOW!

Thanks for all of the interest. I'll be building up a new wheel with
the proceeds!

The only item left are the Jandd Front Mountain Panniers,

I've received payment for most of the other items and sales are
pending for everything else. If anything falls through, I'll contact
the folks who responded next in line.

Dave


On Oct 17, 11:51 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 Hi, Folks:

 I'm cleaning out our garage today and downsizing my bike stuff. I'm
 hoping to generate enough cash for a new wheel for my Hilsen. All
 items are used and in good condition and as noted below. Payment via
 PayPal - Shipping is not included.

 Rivendell/Duluth Waxed Canvas Banana Bag - road worn  faded otherwise
 in good condition - no holes or tears - 25.00

 Park PRS-5 Professional Race Repair Stand - in great condition with
 carrying bag - $90.00

 Stems: Nitto UI-5EX threadless, polished silver 9cm and 11cm - 11cm
 stem has some scratches but both are in good shape with little use -
 15.00 each; Nitto Technomic Deluxe quill stem - 9cm - scratches from
 insertion, but low miles and in very good condition - $25.

 Pletscher/ESGE silver double legged stand - silver. Never cut.
 Installed briefly and removed. - 25.00

 FULL SET: Black, Ortlieb Classic Roller Panniers (front and rear) and
 Handlebar bag (without mount) - used and in good condition - $150 for
 everything.

 Jandd Front Mountain Panniers, Black - 50.00 for the set.

 Please contact me via reply to author.

 Thanks,

 Dave

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[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

2010-09-13 Thread Dave Craig
Adam

A travel agent won't help. It is designed for linear pull brakes.

Is it possible that you used derailleur cable housing instead of brake
housing?

Is it possible that the brake housing isn't properly seated in the
brake lever bodies?

On Sep 13, 2:27 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Mark at Rivendell built up my AHH with the Silvers and the Shimano Tiagra 
 levers that they sell, and the performance is excellent.

 -Jim W.



 -Original Message-
 From: Adam Kimball adamfkimb...@gmail.com
 Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:21 PM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [RBW] Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?

 Wow, I'm not having much luck in the brake department with my new
 ride.  I set up my Hilsen with Silver brakes and found that they
 simply wouldn't stop me - I could have both levers to the tape and
 still roll.  So, I changed to Paul Racer's on the advice of my LBS and
 found that the situation really isn't much better.  Here is where my
 thinking is at:

 * I'm seeing a lot of flex in the brakes themselves and at the cable
 hangers.  The rear brake is worse than the front (as is usually the
 case) but I suspect the inline barrel adjuster and the rear cable
 hanger (light-weight aluminum one that hangs of the seat-post bolt) is
 flexing too much.

 * I've brought the yokes up pretty high - I can get them higher, but
 not much.  So, I'm not certain this is the problem.

 * Brake-pads are the standard black Kool-Stops and I would have to
 assume they are not the problem

 * My Dura-Ace brake levers are incredibly squishy.  This is one piece
 of the equation that is common to both setups (Silvers  Racers).  The
 Racer brakes are indeed short-pull so those road levers should be fine
 - but I've suspected them before.

 Another mechanic took a look at the brakes and road the bike today.
 He agreed that the brakes are massively under performing.  He thought
 that a travel agent might help to pull more cable.  He also wanted
 to re-cable since I cut the rear cable a little short.  He wanted me
 to find out if Paul makes a stiffener that attaches to the calipers.

 Does anyone have any other ideas for me?  I don't have another AHH to
 ride, so it is hard for me to know just how bad my brakes are.  Keven
 at Rivendell didn't think the Racer's are much better than the Silvers
 for braking (and he has a pair on his Hilsen) and so he wondered what
 the other problem might be.

 Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 Thanks,
 Adam

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[RBW] Re: Dogwalker

2010-09-06 Thread Dave Craig
I was really tempted to post on this topic. Instead, I'll offer the
observation that I can see this discussion devolving into something
possibly not appropriate or productive for this group.

Dave

On Sep 6, 10:09 am, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 One of the photos provided in the OP shows the dogs resting on a
 narrow paved path.  It's an obvious hazard for other bike riders on
 the path to safely pass that rig.

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

 On Sep 5, 10:44 am, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:



  Dogs and bikes are a dangerous mix for all parties involved.

  dougP

  On Sep 5, 9:38 am, Rick richardholc...@yahoo.com wrote:

   Made a quicky add on to my nitto back rack for walking the mutts.  A
   recipe for certain disaster -- the next squirrel we pass will probably
   be my undoing -- but not a little fun.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/92441...@n00/sets/72157624760118439/

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-30 Thread Dave Craig
I have avid single digit 7's on my Bombadil. I've used these brakes on
loaded tours with really steep downhills and aggressive mtb'ing on
single track. They work great - I cannot see any real benefit to going
with the ultimates given  the cost/benefit.

FYI: I use 50mm tires on my A719's and would have no problem running
52's or 53's

On Aug 30, 11:08 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I agree LX are a great value (and I think the LX may still be marketed
 for urban/hybrid market, whereas the SLX is positioned primarily for
 mountain biking... I think... In fact I love Shimano hubs, and have
 had great luck with them.  (I even have a NOS set of XT 36 hole hubs
 from the late 80s that I plan to build up for a Stumpjumper
 restoration project... these are some of the nicest, most-reliable
 hubs).  That said, nothing beats a nice set of Phils...

 I have a few more questions for the masses (if you all don't mind)...

 Anyone have experience with the Rigida Sputnik rims?  They're
 apparently a popular touring rim in Europe, and having built up a set
 of Rigida Sphinx 650B rims for my Kogswell P/R before the Rigidas went
 extinct (come to think of it, Kogswell has also gone extinct... hope
 it's not me... but I digress), I'd say the Sphinx was one of the finer
 rims I've ever owned (if that's any indication).  The Sputniks have
 double eyelets, and will support a wide range of tire sizes up to 62mm
 (good for running wider tires on my Bombadil) versus, say the Mavic
 A719 for which 47mm is the maximum recommended width.

 Additional question regarding brakes.  I'm looking for the best
 possible braking for the Bombadil, and don't mind spending extra money
 to get really strong stopping power (after being spoiled by hydraulic
 disc brakes on the Fargo).  I'm considering the Avid Single Digit
 Ultimates (which are quite spendy... $180 a pair on sale!!, but
 reviewers rave about the power and performance of these)... Anyone
 using these brakes?

 Thanks again to all!

 Peace,

 BB

 On Aug 30, 11:27 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



  Do they still make LX? The young man (snort, mumble, mutter) at the
  LBS told me that SLX had taken its place right under XT.

  On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Blindrobert roberto.cipri...@gmail.com 
  wrote:
   Well, I think Shimano LX hubs are a pretty great deal.  I have them on
   a cargo bike that I use in all kinds of nasty weather, I routinely
   carry myself (200 punds) plus over 100 pounds in the front bed, plus
   the weight of the bike which must be another 35-40 pounds.  No sign of
   trouble after 1-1/2 years of hard use.  Thats a 9 speed freehub laced
   36 to a 26 sun rim and a small front wheel (20).  It's worth looking
   at if the phil's are not reasonable enough!

   On Aug 30, 9:29 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
   I think that the main advantage of the Phil FW hub is that you get a
   super nice, super strong hub and axle with extremely durable cartridge
   bearings at a *reasonable* price.  I don't know of a cassette hub with
   those characteristics.

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread Dave Craig
I believe that the relative strengths of various heavy duty/touring
custom wheelsets are vastly overrated for most riders. The reality is
that any well built 36h wheel with modern parts and good, sensible
materials will serve the majority of riders very well. Has your Fargo
wheel broken? If not, why the need for a stronger wheel? Using a
Phil or an XT hub as a base, you can have a great wheel with an 8
speed cassette if you want 8 speeds. Now, if you want to run a
freewheel with 7 or 8 speeds just because you like the idea of using a
freewheel and a Phil hub, but you can't afford the Phil cassette
version and you don't want XT, then go for it without further
justification. I'll assert again that the supposed advantage of the
dishless/freewheel wheel bit is WAAAY overstated.

Dave

On Aug 29, 11:18 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 go with the 7sp and don't look back - rob

 On Aug 29, 6:25 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
  rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
  rear hub choice.

  Planned setup:

  Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
  Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
  need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
  Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

  Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
  speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
  reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
  freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
  speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
  are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
  Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
  I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
  hub.

  Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
  BB- Hide quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread Dave Craig
Tim:

Personal experience is interesting.

I'm also over 200 pounds and I've been riding bikes for 40 or so years
in all of the increments of gearing - pre-BMX, touring, MTB. Yet, I
haven't had a spoke break since 1980 - the year I got my first
handmade rear wheel. I have had two wheels develop eyelet cracks and
one wheel self-destructed due to a rim manufacturing defect AND I've
had a slew of crappy machine made wheels that always seemed to go out
of true. That's not the same as comparing apples to apples - My
experience tells me that well built 36h wheels (with good quality
parts and a professional build) are pretty equal in durability. I will
certainly acknowledge that less dish is probably an advantage to the 7
speed freewheel hub (on a 135mm spacing!), but that it is a belt and
suspenders approach to building strong wheels that carries with it the
disadvantage of availability of parts/ranges/shifters. I will also
admit that I've wanted a set wheels builty with those Riv/Phil hubs
and a seven speed FW for a couple of years.

As you pointed out in your post, heavy, aggressive riders certainly
put more strain on their wheels. I met a guy this summer who had
toured 10,000 miles on his stock Surly LHT without any wheel issues!
He packed lightly and weighed about 170.


Dave

On Aug 29, 1:06 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 On Aug 29, 2010, at 1:51 PM, Dave Craig wrote:

  I'll assert again that the supposed advantage of the
  dishless/freewheel wheel bit is WAAAY overstated.

 That's not my experience, being old enough to have gone from 1 cog to  
 9 in all of the increments over the past 45 years.  The higher dish  
 wheels fail much faster (going out of true, cracking rims).  But I am  
 also 6'4 and 220 lbs, built more like a linebacker than like Lance.  
 Someone who's 140 lbs would probably have a much different experience  
 than me.

 To the OP, I have had a 36 spoke/135 mm/7 sp rear wheel on my All-
 Rounder for 14 years.  I never had to true the rear wheel from 1996  
 until I replace the worn out rim two years ago.  And I've not had to  
 retrue the new wheel (same hub, same spokes, new rim).  Ultra-
 reliable.  This is the bike I use on and off-road, on gravel roads,  
 for light touring and brevets, etc.

 The issue with freewheels is that it's harder to find the cog ranges  
 that you can find with cassettes.  There are good ones out there-  
 Shimano still makes freewheels, after all, and there are other makers  
 as well (IRD, for example) although many bike shops are less likely  
 to stock a lot of them.  The dish is not necessarily less between  
 freewheel and cassette hubs with the same number of cogs.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Atlantis Frame

2010-08-25 Thread Dave Craig
Hi, folks:

Changing this deal a bit. I'm trying to sell the frame now so I can
get it shipped before I take off on month-long field expedition. I've
decided I'm comfortable with selling the frame, fork, headset,
seatpost and stem for $1000.00. Buyer pays the shipping.

I'll be selling the brakes and the Nitto rack separately along with
other garage sale items in a separate post.

Please respond off list.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Which size Noodle Bar?

2010-08-24 Thread Dave Craig
I believe that preferences for width also depend on the bike and
terrain.

My Bombadil really handles best with WIDE bars (48 noodle and
bullmoose). I like the Quickbeam with 48 noodles because I'm out of
the saddle cranking up hills a lot and I like the extra leverage. I
have a geared road bike with 45cm bars and it rides great with those.
Also, I find that as the need for control in rougher terrain
increases, wider bars offer better handling.

Dave

On Aug 24, 9:41 am, D.Lemon davidboydle...@gmail.com wrote:
 I realize there's a blurb on the Riv site addressing sizing guidance
 for the Noodle Bars, but I'd like to get thoughts from the Group.
 Anyone else out there roughly fitting the numbers of 82 PBH, 56cm Riv,
 5'7, and ride with the Noodle Bar?  I'm in the market for one but
 waffling a bit between the 41cm and the 44cm.  Thanks for your
 thoughts.

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[RBW] FS: 64cm Atlantis Frame

2010-08-22 Thread Dave Craig
I did some soul searching about this one. The Atlantis was my first
really nice bike. It's the bike that reintroduced me to the joy of
riding. It's also the bike that I've used as a platform to learn about
bike fit and component selections for comfortable riding/touring -
knowledge that I've iused for my own and many other's benefit. Now,
after experimenting with several other bikes, it's also the bike that
I've decided to let go of in order to reorganize and streamline my
bike possessions. I've got two other bikes that serve the same
purposes as the Atlantis did originally - fat tire versatility and
touring (a 26-inch wheel,Surly LHT and a Bombadil). I'm now looking to
purchase a Hilsen as a more sporty road machine that will fit me a bit
better than the Atlantis, which I bought slightly small to accomodate
standover with fatter tires. The Hilsen will also replace a slightly
small for me SOMA Smoothie ES (also 64cm) and a 62cm Surly Crosscheck
- both of which I'll also be selling soon.

Here's the deal: The frame is about 4 years old, with the typical
scratches and wear including some at the right chainstay where the
chain came off a couple of times. I've touched these up. I've never
crashed the bike and there are no dents. I'm selling the frame, fork
and ultegra headset along with IRD canti's, a Nitto Tech Deluxe stem
(9 or 10 cm - I forget), a Nitto big front rack, and a Nitto Jaguar
seatpost for $1500.00 - buyer pays shipping.

The buyer will need to send payment via Paypal. I will then pack the
bike in the same manner/materials/box that my Hilsen comes in from
RBW. I'm heading into a new academic year with limited discretionary
time, so it will take me about a week to two weeks to pack the bike
and ship it.

This is the perfect bike for a tall guy who'd like an Atlantis in
64cm. As you all probably know, the Atlantis is no longer offered in
64cm without special ordering it. It's also important to know that
this is the Atlantis without the kickstand plate or the extra braze
ons from later Riv's. I use a Clikstand and have used P-clamps on the
Nitto front rack while touring. It's a great bike.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Kickstand Trimming

2010-08-16 Thread Dave Craig
Brad

Do a search for kickstand on this group. There are lots of helpful
hints on cutting and mounting.

Dave



On Aug 16, 1:10 pm, Brad Gantt brdg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi All,

 So, I am ready to mount my KS having secured the necessary (shorter)
 bolt thanks to Mark @Riv. Now my question is whether there is a
 method, rule o' thumb, etc. for cutting the KS down to size or is it
 simply trial and error. Not sure how much lean is appropriate for
 stability. Forgive the novice questions but I haven't had a KS on a
 bike since I was a kid. Let's just say that was a LONG time ago.

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[RBW] Re: Kickstand Trimming

2010-08-16 Thread Dave Craig
J:

The bolts are easy to come by at a True Value or Ace Hardware. I
prefer the button head hex bolts they look a lot nicer than a standard
bolt. Here's a copy of a post I did awhile back about bolting to the
mounting plate - It has the dimensions of the bolt you need:

The bolt you are looking for is a stainless metric M10 bolt with a
1.50 pitch, That will save you some running around - by knowing that
info you can call ahead. Usually Tru value and Ace Hardware stores
have the bolts you'll need available singly. I think the last time I
did this, I used a 35 or 40 mm bolt. With that length in mind, here's
how I assemble it:

I thread a lock washer (split washer) and then a fender washer onto
the bolt. Then, I place the kickstand up against the bottom of the
mounting plate, insert the bolt through the plate and screw it into
the kickstand. It is easier and faster to do this without a fender
and
tire mounted. The bolt will screw through the kickstand and extend a
bit underneath the bike. Snug it up firmly. Lastly, as a belt and
suspenders measure, I place a washer (regular, NOT fender) onto the
exposed threads and I then screw a stainless nylock nut onto the bolt
while keeping the bolt from turning. If that's too obsessive for ya,
get a 25 or 30 mm bolt and just use the upper fender washer and
split/
lock washer. Instead of grease, use blue locktite to coat the threads
before assembling. It does a better job at keeping the bolt from
loosening.

Dave

On Aug 16, 5:48 pm, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 Oddly, I just got a twin-legged kickstand in the mail for my
 Hillborne, which has a kickstand plate, and so...I don't need the
 included aluminum spacer.  But, Than Hex bolt is too long.  I'm sure
 some of you have had this problem...How available are Hex bolts that
 width that are shorter.  Anyone know the dimensions?
 Thanks
 j

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[RBW] Re: Is this rim wear unusual

2010-08-14 Thread Dave Craig
David:

I once had a Velocity rim that developed a solid thump with each
revolution upon braking. I tried everything to deal with it - changed
the pads, lightly sanding the rims - all of the standard stuff.
Finally, on a big down hill, the braking surface of the rim separated.
When I inspected the rim further, I discovered that the rim had also
cracked internally, right along the spoke holes, for about two
centimeters. I'm certain that was cause of the thumping - the rim was
wider where it had cracked. Later, Velocity admitted that there was a
manufacturing defect in several rims purchased around the time when I
bought mine.

Here's what you might do: Mark the rim where you are getting the
thump. Take the tire, tube and rim strip off and inspect the center
channel of the rim at that spot. Also, inspect the area around the
spoke holes inside and out for cracking. I also have to wonder whether
the spokes have too much tension. It is not normal to have an
unpleasant thump with each revolution as you brake. Something is
causing it.  In this case, I really don't believe that a change of
pads will cure it.

I'd be interested in the outcome. Keep us posted.

Dave

On Aug 13, 7:53 pm, carnerda...@bellsouth.net
carnerda...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 My 650B Sam Hillborne has Velocity Synergy rims and Shimano Deore V-
 brakes with the pads that came on them. Since new the front wheel has
 had a little tick with each revolution while braking.  I assumed this
 was a slightly raised joint line that would flatten out with normal
 wear.  Over the last two weeks I have had three12-15 mile rides on
 gravel and chip seal roads which include some steep sections with
 multiple pot holes and required heavy braking. Between these rides I
 had the usual short commutes to work. I noticed that braking in the
 front had become much more uneven to the point that firm application
 of the front brake caused an unpleasant thump with each revolution.
 I decided it was time to clean the braking surface.  When I did I
 found the front rim to be fairly deeply scored and in a pattern where
 the deepest scoring corresponds to each spoke hole. This is the same
 on both sides of the rim.  The rear rim does not have this pattern. I
 have never seen this and can't find mention of it on the internets.
 The links below are to pictures I took to try to show the pattern.
 Am I doing something wrong to cause this?  Should I change to
 different brake pads?  Should I be worried about 
 this?http://www.flickr.com/photos/carner/4889788162/in/set-72157623654420644http://www.flickr.com/photos/carner/4889790774/in/set-72157623654420644/http://www.flickr.com/photos/carner/4889196607/in/set-72157623654420644
 David

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[RBW] Re: Trangia experiments

2010-08-13 Thread Dave Craig
Anne:

Here's a site where reviewers mention the same issue I've described -
some stoves leak and others do not:

http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/trangia-spirit-stove-reviews

Here's a quote from the FAQ's from Trangia's site that probably helps
to prove your stove is defective (http://www.trangia.se/english/
2937.faq.html):

11. If there is some residual alcohol in the spirit burner after
cooking, can the alcohol be saved in the burner (with the lid closed)
for the next day?

The fuel can be stored inside the burner for the next day (or the next
couple of days), provided that the lid is properly closed and the o-
ring is undamaged. However, it is essential that the burner have [sic]
cooled down completely before the lid is closed. Please note that the
alcohol must not be stored in the burner for a longer period of time.

Seems like the person who emailed you didn't read Trangia's own
literature!

It IS a bummer to have a leaky Trangia. It's frustrating. They are/
were? designed to be carried with fuel in them and it's a nice
feature. Luckily, the burners are about 12 dollars. I replaced my
leaky burner 2 years ago and have over 150 field days with the stove
without a leak. Storing fuel in the stove over a month or more hasn't
been an issue either, though I'll acknowledge there's really not good
reason to do this.

Hope this helps,

Dave

On Aug 12, 8:33 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 7:14 PM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
  Carrying fuel in the stove. There's a couple of points to mention.
  First, I always carry fuel in my stove - no problem and no leaks. So
  do my students. Regardless of what a Trangia employee might have
  emailed, the stove lid has an o-ring expressly because the stove was
  designed to carry alcohol in it.  Inexplicably, SOME Trangia burners
  DO leak and others do not.

 I guess I have one that leaks, then. :(  I emailed Trangia precisely
 because I wanted to understand why my Trangia, with a brand new
 O-ring, still leaked. Instead of saying what I wanted him to say-- Oh,
 your burner is defective, we'll replace it-- he said don't carry fuel
 in the stove. Great.

 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Trangia experiments

2010-08-12 Thread Dave Craig
Thanks for the encouraging review of the Trangia, Anne. These really
are great stoves. They are quiet, simple and relatively safe to use.

I've got a fair amount of experience using the Trangia in field
settings on my own trips and with students over the last couple of
years, He are some perspectives from my own and my students'
experiences.

I agree with Anne about the smaller set being great for one person.
Depending on your appetite, it can be marginal for two. Heck, my
twenty something outdoor education students find that even the large
Trangia set is just barely big enough for two! That said, Pamela and I
have been using the small set for the last two summers of bike touring
and it has worked fine for us. The secret is in the cooking strategy
and meal planning. With spaghetti, for example, we break the pasta in
half before adding it to the boiling water. We use much less water
than usual and add a little oil to prevent sticking. We bring the
water back to a boil and then take the pot off and put it into a pot
cozy to finish cooking. In the meantime, we use the second pot to
saute' veggies and heat the sauce. Everything ends up being done at
the same time. Garnish with sunflower seeds and cheese. I also usually
rehydrate some sundried tomatoes in a cup with a little boiling water
before starting the spaghetti. These get added to the sauce once it is
heated. I think if we just had spaghetti and sauce, the meal might be
a little light, but we always have appetizers and dessert to round out
the meal.

Carrying fuel in the stove. There's a couple of points to mention.
First, I always carry fuel in my stove - no problem and no leaks. So
do my students. Regardless of what a Trangia employee might have
emailed, the stove lid has an o-ring expressly because the stove was
designed to carry alcohol in it.  Inexplicably, SOME Trangia burners
DO leak and others do not. I have one that does and one that doesn't
and none of our 5 student stoves leak. Another crucial point is to
NEVER extinguish the stove with the screw top. Doing so will burn the
o-ring. This damages the seal and the stove will leak. Use the simmer
ring to extinguish the flame. Before I put the screw top on the
burner, I always make sure that the stove is cool enough to touch.
It's also important to screw the lid on tightly before packing it away
in the pot set.

Alcohol fuel - Unfortunately, formulations of denatured alcohol are
really variable - even in the same brand from the same manufacturer.
It varies by batch. It's not as simple as saying one brand smokes and
another doesn't. Trangia advises putting a small amount of water in
the fuel in order to reduce smoking. I've never needed to do this and
I've almost always used the Sunnyside brand fuel. I did once use some
Ace Hardware brand fuel that didn't smoke much at all, but that was
one quart and I can't really say that holds true for all Ace hardware
alcohol without a more substantial field test.

Finally, it's worth noting that Trangia makes an isobutane burner
insert for the stove. There are lighter isobutane cooking set ups, but
I love the Trangia tea kettle and the windscreen and pot stability of
the Trangia cookset. The isobutane unit is also quiet and it's much
more efficient than alcohol. I tend to use isobutane on longer trips
when I have few opportunities for ressupply. One 8 oz, isobutane
canister lasts me (using a pot cozy) for around 8 to 9 days on
wilderness expeditions versus about a liter of alcohol for the same
duration.

Dave

On Aug 11, 9:19 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
 I recently bought a Trangia stove with the pot and frying pan set.
 Rivendell sells this fine product and recommends it for campouts.
 Based on my recent experimentation, I concur.  Here's a report on my
 experiments:

 Water for a cup of tea boils quickly. I didn't time it, but something
 like four or five minutes, perfectly fine for a camping breakfast or
 for an afternoon warmup on a long cold ride. And unlike my MSR white
 gas stove which roars like a freight train, the Trangia is completely
 silent.

 But what about actual food?  I tried pancakes, made with Krusteaz
 buttermilk pancake mix, on a sub-24. I brought along some Krusteaz in
 a ziplock. At the campsite, I mixed it with enough water to make a
 pourable batter, just stirring so that most but not all the lumps were
 gone (why yes, I do bring along a wire whisk when camping, why do you
 ask?). I used the Trangia without the simmer ring; pancakes cook
 fairly quickly. I made two or three little pancakes in the frying pan
 at a time, turning them over when the bubbles popped. Results:
 Delicious. I spread them with Nutella.

 Emboldened, I moved on to a biscuit. For this, I used a homemade mix
 of 1 cup flour, 1/4 cup powdered milk,  1 teaspoon baking powder, 1/4
 teaspoon salt,1 tablespoon Crisco. I mixed the dry ingredients
 together, then cut the Crisco in using two knives. (If I made a bigger
 batch, I'd mix in the Crisco in 

[RBW] Re: Touring gear list advice

2010-07-27 Thread Dave Craig
I like doing my own maintenance and fixing my own mechanical problems
on the road. I tend to see dealing with repair problems as part of the
adventure of touring. I also enjoy being of service to other tourers I
meet who are having bike issues. So, because I enjoy wrenching and
being independent of shop mechanics, I do carry a heavier tool kit. I
economize on other equipment to balance out the weight. Note: For self-
contained touring, my total base gear load is about 45 pounds
including the panniers.


Bike Touring Repair Kit Contents
(With some items carried elsewhere)*

--All of these items are packed in a small, 2-pocket fanny pack and
travel in a front pannier. This is the kit I use for 2- to 6-week,
self-contained tours where bike shops might be inconsistently
available--

Tools

Crank Bro’s M10 Multitool
Park 8/10 Open End Wrench
Chainring Bolt Tool
Mini Vise Grips
Brooks Saddle Spanner
Park Chain Checker (CC-3)
Stein Mini Cassette Lockring Tool
Park Spoke Wrench
½ Hacksaw Blade
15mm Wrench
Park CT-5 Chain Tool
Single 5mm Hex Wrench (for seat adjustment)

Tire Repair

TTO2 Patch Kit – Double Contents
2 Valve Caps
2 Presta Stem Nuts
Presta/Schrader Rim Adapter
Presta/Schrader Fill Adapter
1-2 Spare Tubes
Spare Tire

Spares

2 Ortlieb Pannier Clip Spacers
2 Planet Bike Fender Stay Bolts
1 Bottom Fender Spacer
2 Ortlieb Rack Spacers
4 M5 Stainless Fender Washers
4 M5 Stainless Washers
4 M5 Split/Lock Washers
4 M5 Nylock Nuts
10 Asst’d Stainless M5 Bolts
Derailleur/Brake Cable End Crimps
Derailleur/Brake Cable Housing End Caps
3 Cable “Donuts”
Brake Noodle Boot
8  9 Speed Sram  Powerlinks
5mm Cassette Spacer (allows use of 7 speed cassette on 8/9 speed hub)
Brake Cable
Brake Pads
Derailleur Cable
FiberFix Spoke

Miscellaneous

Modified Jansport Fanny Pack
Assorted Zip Ties
Tenacious Tape(TM)
Therm-A-Rest Repair Kit
Small Bottle Phil Grease
Small Bottle with Boeshield T-9 Lube
Small Bottle Blue Loctite

Total weight of above items = 3 lbs 14 oz

*Repair Items Carried Elsewhere

Small Swiss Army Knife (Kitchen)
Folding Scissors (First Aid)
Sewing Kit (First Aid)
3 Spokes (Taped to Rack)
Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP (Frame)
Dollar Bill (Tire Boot)
Mini Duct Tape Roll (Front Pannier)
Nylon Cord (Clothesline and Repair - Front Pannier)


On Jul 25, 10:30 pm, thebvo the...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy all!
 I'm doing the Pacific coast tour (2000 miles - yikes) in september.
 It will be my first long distance tour ever, so I would love to hear
 suggestions on what to bring, besides camping gear.
 I've been backpacking for 10 years, so that part is covered, but what
 I'm curious about deals with bike tools and accessories and tips.  For
 example:  bike pumps - cO2 cartridge or top tube pump?  Pedals -  Grip
 king or cages? - I am NOT doing the lance armstrong shoes.  So, I
 dunno.  I'm just puttin it out there if anyone with experience wants
 to float some knowledge my way about touring.
 Thanks a lot
 ~Ben
 ps: I'll be out in the woods canoeing for 3 weeks, but when I get back
 I'll be ready to read and learn.  Cheerio

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[RBW] Re: Big guy advice

2010-07-27 Thread Dave Craig
Jim's question is key. Frame size matters. Given the same tubing, big
frames flex more than smaller ones. Riv has gone to double TT's to add
stiffness to the larger frame sizes.

I weigh about 210 and I'm pretty athletic. When I stand and pedal
aggressively, I sometimes flex my 64cm Atlantis in the same manner you
describe. My 60cm Bombadil doesn't have the same degree of flex even
under off road conditions because it's smaller, has double TT's and
thicker tubing overall.

Dave



On Jul 27, 5:59 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:

  I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen.  I've got a bit of a worry.  At 220
  lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3.  Anytime I stand up to power up a
  hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
  deraileur.  It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
  Hilsen will be adequately stiff for me.  I don't plan on any loaded
  touring with the bike, just all day long trips on paved roads with a
  few dirt roads thrown into the mix.  I've lost a considerable amount
  of weight since I started riding a year ago, so I'm not likely to lose
  much more.

  I really like the A. Homer, but would switch to the Atlantis if really
  necessary.  I'm hoping some out there in Riv land are big guys that
  have been riding the Hilsen can give me their opinion.

 What size frame are you getting?

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

 'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary
 handlebars, grinning indulgently, eyeing Tom's helmet.  Double disbeleif:
 not one, but two grown Americans riding bicycles.
 -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac

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[RBW] Re: Noisy Bagman support for Carradice bag

2010-06-12 Thread Dave Craig
For a quick fix without disassembling the part, you might try
squirting some penetrating oil (WD-40) into the spot. Otherwise,
remove the rods, lube them with a light coating of bike grease and
reinstall. Make sure you put some Loctite on the set screw when you
reassemble the part.

Dave

On Jun 12, 8:23 pm, ejg egi...@maine.rr.com wrote:
 Hi folks,
 for quite awhile now I've been trying to figure out the source of some
 creaking and squeaking. Today I figured it out.
 It's the Bagman support for my Carradice Nelson.
 While I like how the Bagman supports the bag I find the creaking and
 squeaking pretty annoying.
 Anyway, it squeaks and creaks where the stainless rods go into the
 piece that attaches to the saddle. The bagman has a bit of flex at
 this point.
 The problem is worse when the bag is loaded, but is still there when
 the bag is empty.
 Any ideas for removing the noise. This week I am doing the trek across
 maine and it'd be awesome to not squeak the whole way.
 Just ordered the new Brand V boxy bar bag and it should be here in
 time for the ride

 Thanks
 EJG

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[RBW] Re: FS: Carradice; Nitto; Acorn

2010-06-03 Thread Dave Craig
All items are sold. Thanks to everyone who purchased my items and also
to those who emailed with interest and words of encouragement about my
upcoming tour. I certainly appreciate it.

Dave

On Jun 1, 8:55 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 The racks are now spoken for.

 The Acorn rando bag is still available.

 Dave

 On Jun 1, 4:35 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  The Super C panniers are sold.

  The racks and the Acorn rando bag are still available.

  Dave

  On Jun 1, 11:32 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

   Hey, folks:

   Further reductions in my bike stuff to fund a summer tour - yes, it
   looks like in spite of all the challenges we faced this year, we get
   to tour. Yeah!

   Super C Rear Panniers - used on one tour. Very good condition with no
   rips, or frays. One pair for $100 bucks.
   See:http://www.wallbike.com/carradice/supercrearpanniers.html

   Boxy Rando Bag (original $170.00) Black. Never used - never seen the
   light o' day. $140.00
   See:http://www.acornbags.com/boxybag.html

   Nitto Big Front Rack - pre triangle/trussed version. Great condition.
   No bends, nicks or scrapes. Used on two tours. How about $100.00 
   even?http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/big-front-rack-nitto/20-075

   Surly Front Nice Rack - Black. Never used, never mounted - complete.
   $90.00

   Email me off list with any questions. Please email with a new message
   to dcr...@prescott.edu. I've been having problems opening reply to
   author emails from RBW group members.

   Dave

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[RBW] Re: rear der squeak?

2010-06-02 Thread Dave Craig
If it is shifting fine, it's not in the adjustment.

You can try lubing anywhere the derailer pivots. These spots are easy
to identify. Put the bike in a stand, hang it level from the rafters
or even flip it upside down and remove the wheel. You'll be able to
work the derailer back and forth to find the pivot points. Also, check
to see if the derailer mounting bolt is tight. You might also have a
loose lock ring on the cassette. Check that while the wheel's off.

My vote is for something rubbing somewhere when the derailer is at
maximum travel. Replace the wheel. Set up the bike so you can shift
gears and turn the pedals. Shift back and forth into the small cog.
See if you can recreate the noise while you watch where it is coming
from. Look for places the cable might be rubbing or the derailer
hitting something..Since you mention that your pushing the lever to
get to a higher gear, your derailer is under a bunch of cable tension
in the highest gear. That will move a loose mount, realigning the RD.

Dave

On Jun 2, 5:34 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 anyone got a read on this?

 my Sam has started to squeak when pushing (thumbies) the rear der onto a 
 smaller sprocket - i get one short bird noise when quickly shifting out.  
 also, when on the smallest one, it's chirped regularly for 10-15 feet at a 
 time a couple of times.  

 sounds just like a bird with a two-note song.  i kid you not.

 i *think* the rear der (shimano deore RR long) has started to talk, but i'm 
 not sure where to lubricate it:)
 is this maybe one of the two pulleys?  or should i monkey with the adjustment 
 screws?

 thanks,
 andrew

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[RBW] Re: Mtb Levers for Cantis

2010-06-01 Thread Dave Craig
I use Cane Creek flat top levers (for canti's) on one bike. They work
well and are solidly constructed.

I use the Tektro levers a Surly Big Dummy, running v-brakes and discs.
They are good levers that work with v's and traditional canti's. No
issues.

Dave

On Jun 1, 6:47 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello Folks,

 Is anyone able to compare the Tektro mtb-style levers for cantis
 offered by Riv to those offered by VO?  I have the VO set and the
 mechanical advantage seems to be lower than the drop bar levers I
 replaced.  Also, there is a bit of play in the pivot.  Is the Riv
 offering any different/better?

 What would be a good vintage model to look for on eBay?  Suntour?
 Shimano?

 I wish Avid would make their Speed Dial levers for Cantis.

 Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Mini-Front Vs. Two-Strut Toprack

2010-06-01 Thread Dave Craig
William

I agree with most of your points to the original poster. I've loaded
my QB with the Nitto mini/basket with some pretty hefty loads and it
works great. I'm a college professor, so I can relate to carrying
loads of books. The one point I think you've incorrectly stated is
this: The Platrack does not require mid fork braze-ons. It attaches to
the Nitto mini and the drop out rack/fender eyelets. As far as I know,
no QB has mid fork braze-ons. The braze-ons for QB's are higher than
mid fork and are specifically placed for the Nitto mini rack. As a
comparison, the Bombadil comes with mid fork braze-on's - for use with
regular bike touring racks.

Dave

On Jun 1, 7:43 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 The mini-front is totally bomber.  Do not hesitate for a second
 putting 20 lbs of books on a basket on a Nitto mini front.  Does your
 quickbean have the mid fork braze-ons?  even better if it does.  Then
 you can massively upgrade the capacity with a Platrack for special
 occasions.  What a bonanza!

 On May 31, 10:50 pm, Jim Boggs rhizomic.upris...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm looking to put a 14X9X9.5 basket on the front of my Quickbeam, and
  I'm trying to decide which Nitto rack to use to support it - either
  the mini-front or two-strut toprack. My main concern is the weight
  limit of the mini-front, as I prefer the minimalist aesthetics of it,
  but I don't wan to push it with hefty loads.

  I'm a student and I imagine there will be a lot of bulky book loads in
  this bike's future, averaging probably 10-15 lbs. in the front basket.
  I've seen mini-fronts with the huge Wald baskets on some of the 'staff
  bike' photos on Riv's website, so that would lead me to believe that
  the mini-front has been taken to task with lots of weight. So
  basically, I think I'd prefer a mini-front for less weight/bulkiness,
  but I'm wondering if you all think it might be worth investing in some
  more structural integrity with the toprack?

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[RBW] FS: Carradice; Nitto; Acorn

2010-06-01 Thread Dave Craig
Hey, folks:

Further reductions in my bike stuff to fund a summer tour - yes, it
looks like in spite of all the challenges we faced this year, we get
to tour. Yeah!

Super C Rear Panniers - used on one tour. Very good condition with no
rips, or frays. One pair for $100 bucks.
See: http://www.wallbike.com/carradice/supercrearpanniers.html

Boxy Rando Bag (original $170.00) Black. Never used - never seen the
light o' day. $140.00
See: http://www.acornbags.com/boxybag.html

Nitto Big Front Rack - pre triangle/trussed version. Great condition.
No bends, nicks or scrapes. Used on two tours. How about $100.00 even?
http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/big-front-rack-nitto/20-075

Surly Front Nice Rack - Black. Never used, never mounted - complete.
$90.00

Email me off list with any questions. Please email with a new message
to dcr...@prescott.edu. I've been having problems opening reply to
author emails from RBW group members.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS: Carradice; Nitto; Acorn

2010-06-01 Thread Dave Craig
The Super C panniers are sold.

The racks and the Acorn rando bag are still available.

Dave

On Jun 1, 11:32 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 Hey, folks:

 Further reductions in my bike stuff to fund a summer tour - yes, it
 looks like in spite of all the challenges we faced this year, we get
 to tour. Yeah!

 Super C Rear Panniers - used on one tour. Very good condition with no
 rips, or frays. One pair for $100 bucks.
 See:http://www.wallbike.com/carradice/supercrearpanniers.html

 Boxy Rando Bag (original $170.00) Black. Never used - never seen the
 light o' day. $140.00
 See:http://www.acornbags.com/boxybag.html

 Nitto Big Front Rack - pre triangle/trussed version. Great condition.
 No bends, nicks or scrapes. Used on two tours. How about $100.00 
 even?http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/big-front-rack-nitto/20-075

 Surly Front Nice Rack - Black. Never used, never mounted - complete.
 $90.00

 Email me off list with any questions. Please email with a new message
 to dcr...@prescott.edu. I've been having problems opening reply to
 author emails from RBW group members.

 Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS: Carradice; Nitto; Acorn

2010-06-01 Thread Dave Craig
The racks are now spoken for.

The Acorn rando bag is still available.

Dave

On Jun 1, 4:35 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 The Super C panniers are sold.

 The racks and the Acorn rando bag are still available.

 Dave

 On Jun 1, 11:32 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  Hey, folks:

  Further reductions in my bike stuff to fund a summer tour - yes, it
  looks like in spite of all the challenges we faced this year, we get
  to tour. Yeah!

  Super C Rear Panniers - used on one tour. Very good condition with no
  rips, or frays. One pair for $100 bucks.
  See:http://www.wallbike.com/carradice/supercrearpanniers.html

  Boxy Rando Bag (original $170.00) Black. Never used - never seen the
  light o' day. $140.00
  See:http://www.acornbags.com/boxybag.html

  Nitto Big Front Rack - pre triangle/trussed version. Great condition.
  No bends, nicks or scrapes. Used on two tours. How about $100.00 
  even?http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/big-front-rack-nitto/20-075

  Surly Front Nice Rack - Black. Never used, never mounted - complete.
  $90.00

  Email me off list with any questions. Please email with a new message
  to dcr...@prescott.edu. I've been having problems opening reply to
  author emails from RBW group members.

  Dave

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo v. Soma ES?

2010-05-30 Thread Dave Craig
I'm also not in the size range of a Rodeo (94cm PBH).

It so happens that I do have a Bombadil and a Soma ES just as you are
considering. At the time I got the Smoothie ES, I got it instead of a
Rambouillet.

So, while I can't really compare the Rodeo and Soma, I can appreciate
the consideration of having the lighter road bike and the heavier
touring/mountain bike. I like my Smoothie. It's set up with compact
cranks and a 9 speed cluster, with clipless pedals and brifters. I run
32 mm tires on it. I have other bikes that I ride more often and I've
considered selling it many times, but every time I ride it I do enjoy
the feel. It is a fine bike and I've been very happy with it.

Dave

On May 30, 7:50 am, ed k yagen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Greetings non-lurkers -

 I like the idea of a so-called club racer to go beside the Bombadil,
 but the Roadeo comes in freakishly small sizes, not fit for a healthy
 98cm PBH.  Can't understand why

 Can anybody contrast/compare to the Soma ES
 (http://somafab.com/extrasmoothie.html)? Besides the fact that it is
 welded and 1/4 the cost?  It comes in a 66cm (C-T) which should be OK.

 I know, I should be contemplating I.F., but if this is a
 quick-and-dirty solution I'll take it for a few years while I save up
 some cash.

 Bonus Riv reference:  Requires long-reach brakes like Riv's Silver Sidepulls!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

2010-05-29 Thread Dave Craig
All items are sold.

Thanks!

On May 28, 5:42 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 Thumbies and 1 set of Neo Retros - SOLD

 One pair of Neo Retros remaining.

 Dave

 On May 28, 10:59 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:

  Paul Road Thumbies (pair)http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html-
  Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
  Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
  need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
  Thumbies

  Paul Neo Retro Brakes -http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html-Silver
  Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
  these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
  per wheel

  Please contact me off list.

  Dave- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

2010-05-28 Thread Dave Craig
I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:

Paul Road Thumbies (pair) http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html -
Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
Thumbies

Paul Neo Retro Brakes - http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html - Silver
Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
per wheel

Please contact me off list.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

2010-05-28 Thread Dave Craig
Thumbies and 1 set of Neo Retros - SOLD

One pair of Neo Retros remaining.

Dave

On May 28, 10:59 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:

 Paul Road Thumbies (pair)http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html-
 Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
 Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
 need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
 Thumbies

 Paul Neo Retro Brakes -http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html- Silver
 Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
 these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
 per wheel

 Please contact me off list.

 Dave

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[RBW] Re: Click in the left grip king

2010-05-26 Thread Dave Craig
In addition to the other advice,

1) Grease the pedal threads and reinstall?

2) Grease the pedal bearings?

3) Are you sure it's the pedal? Could the crank arm or the bottom
bracket be loose?

4) Avoid getting in an accident as you listen, look and ride to the
noise:) !

Dave

On May 26, 5:36 pm, Calm54 mukum...@gmail.com wrote:
 Today my left grip king started to click when pressure is applied.
 Does anyone have suggestions on what may be wrong and how to fix it?
 Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose, Thumbies and Rapid Rise

2010-05-24 Thread Dave Craig
I have rapid rise on my Bombadil with thumbies and shimano shifters.
It is works great - no reservations.

Dave

On May 24, 11:57 am, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello All,

 I am thinking about the setup of my Hunqapillar which will wear
 Bullmoose bars and Paul thumbies with shimano bar-end shifters.  Is a
 rapid-rise rear der the best choice in this situation?

 Assuming the thumbies will be indexed and positioned on top of the
 bar, will I be able to flick the right lever forward?  If so, wouldn't
 I want that motion to be a shift to a larger cog?  If I can only shift
 the lever in one direction without taking my hand off the bar,
 wouldn't I want that to be a downshift?  When I am looking for an
 easier gear (ie. riding up hill in the wrong gear), I'm thinking I
 won't want to take my hand off the bar.  For this reason, is a top-
 normal der more appropriate?

 I haven't used thumb shifters in YEARS so if hands must come off the
 bar for all shifts, then I guess rapid rise is the way to go.

 Thanks for any advice,
 Eric

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me Quickbeam frame/fork pics

2010-05-20 Thread Dave Craig
Congratulations. That's a nice color.

I ride the QB more than my other bikes. It just makes me smile.

I kept the 32t chainring and changed out the 40t in front for a 36t. I
run a White 16/19 freewheel. I usually ride everywhere/all the time in
36/16 (about the same as the stock 40/18). I use the 32/19 only when
I'm carrying a load or riding alone out of town into the mountains.
The advantage of my set-up is that it's close to the original range
(which is pretty good for mixed riding) and yet it requires very
little axle movement with the gear switch. This allows me to have a
really nice fender line and also lets me remove the rear wheel without
touching the fender Also, chainline is better compared to the stock
set-up.

As of yesterday, I've got the Nitto Big rack in the back and Nitto
small in the front (with a basket). I installed the Nitto big rack in
the rear to give me a little more carrying capacity. This required
sawing off the little tabs on the rack that would have made getting
the wheel off more complicated.

Dave

On May 20, 10:27 am, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi everyone. I just joined this group, though I've been lurking for a
 while. Yesterday, through a fast and fortunate series of events, I
 picked up a used Quickbeam frame/fork/extras. Here's a small Flickr
 set:

 http://tinyurl.com/2ctq33t

 I'm currently mulling over drivetrain ideas and would be happy to hear
 suggestions or experiences. Currently, I'm thinking I'll do fixed/free
 for a while to get used to the bike. Then, make changes as needed.

 Best,
 Lee
 SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis - Bombadil comparison

2010-05-18 Thread Dave Craig
René

I have both bikes - a 64 cm Atlantis and a 60 cm Bombadil. I have
toured on both bikes and I ride each of them regularly.

The Bombadil is definitely stiffer. That works for me because I weigh
210 and I like to climb out of the saddle even when I'm touring with a
load. I also like to take advantage of rougher side routes like gravel
roads and trails if the opportunity presents itself during a tour. I
get a comfortable feeling of stability on the Bombadil that I like a
lot. However, the Atlantis served me well as a touring bike and I'd
still be touring on it if I hadn't bought the Bombadil.

I bought the Bombadil primarily because I was in the market for an MTB
that would fit me well enough to tour on while doing double duty as my
regular trail bike. Honestly, I also thought the double top tubes
looked kinda neat and that was a factor in my decision to purchase it.

As for handling, I guess I'm not too critical of a judge if the bike
rides well. I've got several bikes and they all have different
characteristics that I adjust to after a few minutes in the saddle.
Because my Bombadil and Atlantis are set-up so differently (tires,
handlebars, wheels), I don't feel like I can give you a decent
comparison of handling characteristics. On the road, I'm happy riding
for long distances on either bike and both are fine on fast decents
and in city traffic. Both handle graded dirt roads easily. The edge
goes to the Bomb on trails, but that's also an issue of flat bars
versus drops, 50mm tires versus 33's and thumb shifters versus DT's
(Bomb versus Atlantis, respectively).

Lastly, I'll say that I can relate to your concerns about sizing. I
had a 66cm Atlantis that I just wasn't comfortable with - probably
more of a mental issue than a sizing issue. I made the switch to a 64
after a couple of months of trying to convince myself that I was OK
with the fit of the 66. I've got 3 Riv bikes (the other is a 64cm QB).
All are about a size smaller than RBW recommends. I'm at the top end
of the range for the Bombadil. I have a really long PBH for my size
with a short torso. Even with a size smaller, I run short stems - dirt
drops on the Bomb and QB and a 7cm technomic on the Atlantis. All
three bikes fit nearly identically.

Hope that helps,

Dave

On May 18, 11:09 am, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Could anyone who has/had both compare them? Are they significantly different
 in terms of riding quality or feel? Is the Atlantis significantly flexier
 when loaded vs the Bombadil with the 2 top tubes? Do they differ in their
 handling?

 Thank you for the feedback!

 René

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[RBW] Re: The Insanity of our Times

2010-04-18 Thread Dave Craig
Sad story indeed. Many health care practioners become bitter and
frustrated due to facing situations like this on a daily basis. It can
be hard to have compassion for people who choose to eat themselves
into morbid obesity, a poor quality of life and an early death. I am
sorry that this young man may never know the joy many of us in this
group share in riding our bikes.

I feel blessed that, at age 50, I am fit and in good health and am
surrounded by people in my life who value healthy living and an active
lifestyle. My love for riding bikes has contributed in no small part
to keeping my weight at a healthy level even though I occassionally
splurge on calories that I probably should avoid.


Dave

On Apr 18, 12:07 pm, Me clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 **If this is too far astray for this group... Jim, go ahead and pull
 it, but I thought -somehow- it needed posting: perhaps for no other
 reason than to purge it from my brain**

 My wife is an RN.  She works in PACU [basically to the common person,
 that's the recovery room after one has surgery].

 Last night she was on-call.  Sure enough, at 11:15pm her pager goes
 off and she needs to go in.  My daughter and me kiss her and off she
 goes.

 She arrives back home at 3:30am after recovering a 21yr old male who
 had to have his gull bladder removed.  He had come through the ER,
 straight into emergency surgery, then to my wife.

 He weighs 431 pounds.

 His history is approximating about 16,000 calories per day, mostly
 fast food, the rest 'homemade' food 'by mom' in the form of mac-n-
 cheese, fried fish, lots of potatoes in the mashed variety, meatloaf,
 fried chicken, biscuits, loves his vegetables [according to mom] with
 butter  Velveeta cheese... etc.
 Favorite Activity: video games.

 Yesterday he had eaten 44 'Buffalo' chicken wings and 3 orders of
 'chili' fries, a couple fried 'breaded' salmon steaks and cauliflower
 with cheese when he began having extreme middle-back pain.  After his
 mom gave him 'a large bowl of ice cream  2 TBSP of Pepto Bismol to
 help ease the pain' and the pain didn't ease up, he was brought to the
 ER where it was discovered his gull bladder was enlarged, discharging
 bile, and about to bleed-out.

 He did okay in surgery.  The surgeon had difficulty getting to his
 gull bladder as his liver was so enlarged due to his size.

 My wife had difficulty with him in recovery do to his size... his
 wound site kept bleeding because of his size, the pliability of his
 abdomen due to fat, and he was reacting poorly to meds [stopped
 breathing many times, and she had to 'bag' him 5 different times].  He
 also vomited up his entire day's intake of food because of not
 reacting well to the various agents given to him during his procedure.

 After my wife stabilized him, she transported him to his room.  The
 patient was lucid by this point, in discomfort, curious what had
 happened to him, and asking for food, something spicy.  My wife
 explained what had happened, and that spicy food was -more than
 likely- not ever going to be in his day to day menu again -- due to
 not having a gull bladder in his body any longer.

 When she got him to his room, his mom  dad were there waiting.

 His parents asked the usual questions.  My wife answered them.

 As my wife was leaving the room with the boy's parents, his mom began
 opening and emptying out a large grocery bag with the statement, just
 a little something for him, for the morning, when he wakes up.

 She pulled out 2 large bags of Doritos, a store-bought deli container
 of 'Buffalo' chicken wings [24-count], a large squeeze bottle of
 Hidden Valley ranch dressing, a 2-litter bottle of Coke and a 12
 double layer chocolate cake.

 My wife explained that this wasn't a good thing.  That this food was
 not going to do him any good favors, and especially after the gull
 bladder removal.

 The mom looked at my wife and said, You obviously don't have
 children, boys just like to eat!

 This kind of thing is heartbreaking to me.

 -Scott

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[RBW] Re: racks vs. paint

2010-04-12 Thread Dave Craig
Check out the Tubus Cosmo - it is stainless steel. I'm buying one
because it will allow me to mount my panniers lower on my honkin' big
Bombadil.

Dave

On Apr 12, 2:30 pm, soapscum smula...@gmail.com wrote:
 So, I have this Hillborne and it's a swell bike. Best bike, for me,
 ever. Nice saddle, good lights, comfy bar. When I look at it I think
 to myself that's sure a pretty... darnit, I wish that rack wasn't
 black. I have a Tubus Cargo on the back and the black is just not
 working for me. Let me rephrase that: the black Tubus works for me
 great, but it's just not jiving with the rest of the aesthetics. So I
 figure I've got 3 choices:

 1. Live with it.
 2. Sell it.
 3. Paint it!

 Anyone have any experience with painting a rack? I know there are some
 quality automotive finishes available in the esteemed rattle-can form
 factor, and if I paint it I can pretty well cross number 2 off the
 list if I don't like it. I humbly solicit your collective wisdom. Oh,
 and here's a current pic of the aforementioned noble steed:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45524...@n08/4485990996/

 Thanks,
 Shawn

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-12 Thread Dave Craig
Thank you, Angus. Well stated and an important addition - by no means
would I want anyone to get the idea that they need the Bombadil in
order to tour. It just ain't so..

I actually loved touring on my Atlantis and I am certain it suits more
riders than not. I am thinking about touring on the Atlantis again
with the Tubus racks to see if that makes a difference in my
perception of the bike.

Dave

On Apr 12, 3:14 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I would like to add another data point of using an Atlantis as atouringbike.

 I'm not disagreeing with Dave at all.  I'm a different physique of
 rider.
 146 lbs, 89cm PBH, I would say I'm very fit but NOT powerful and
 generally climb seated.

 I also ride a 64cm Atlantis with a similar set up (same tires, bars
 etc...) and tour with panniers.  I'm not a minimalist but don't carry
 excessive amounts of gear either.

 I think the Atlantis handles very well fully loaded and can not detect
 any flexibility (everything is flexible, but I can't detect it in this
 case).  I have ridden flexible bicycles in the past, an Alan
 aluminum...now that thing would be really bad with a load!

 I can easily see how a Bombadil may better suit a more powerful rider.

 Again, I'm not disagreeing with Dave, just wanted to get the
 perspective of a smaller rider out there.

 Angus

 On Apr 11, 2:34 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  Atlantis versus Bombadil for loadedtouring

  Compare and contrast?! As a college professor, I feel like I've been
  given an essay question. :)

  OK . . .  here's the brief and simple low down on MY experience with
  these two bikes for loadedtouring- YMMV, especially if you are a
  smaller person using a smaller frame size.  First, a disclaimer:

  The bikes (Atantis and Bomb) were set up quite differently - more on
  that below. Therefore, I don't think I can provide a *truly* objective
  comparison between the two frames. How one sets up a bike has as much
  to do with how a bike deals with loadedtouringas any other factor.

  Relevant Bombadil set up: 60cm frame; Tubus Cargo rear rack; Tubus
  Tara front rack; Ortlieb handlebar bag/panniers; Schwalbe Marathon
  Supreme 700x50's on Velocity Dyads/Phil hubs - 36 spokes front/40
  rear; 48cm noodle bars/bar end shifters

  Relevant Atlantis set up: 64cm frame; Riv Nitto big front and rear
  racks; 36 spoke Salsa Delgado rims/XT hubs with 700x37 Pasela
  Tourguards; no handlebar bag; using Ortlieb panniers;46cm noodle bars/
  bar end shifters.

  After adjusting with different stems, I fit the same on both bikes -
  nearly exactly the same reach and bar height.

  Simple review: I like the Bombadil better for loadedtouring.

  I have a 94cm PBH and I weigh over 200 pounds. I'm pretty fit and I
  like to stand when I climb. I've found that standing often while
  riding helps me to avoid a sore butt. I think that smaller, lighter
  folks who tour on smaller bikes cannot truly appreciate how much tall
  frames flex under load from a large, strong rider, standing on climbs
  with a full pannier set.

  Even on the Atlantis, with its relatively heavy tubeset, I found it to
  be less stable than I really wanted. Although it toured fine, it
  didn't really handle as well as I wanted on uneven ground with a load.
  When the Bombadil came out, I saw the extra top tube and wondered if
  that would be a solution for making a large frame feel better. I test
  rode the bike at RBW and I was surprised at how light and responsive
  it was.

  I chose my rack set up on the Bombadil to maximize a sturdy, stable
  feel. Everything feels tight and as if the racks are part of the
  frame. Off road and on, and whether I was standing or sitting, the
  Bombadil felt solid and predictable. Surprisingly, the bike has the
  most amazing low speed handling with packs on I have ever experienced.
  At speed, I find that mosttouringbikes handle just fine, but at slow
  speeds, they are unwieldy - not the Bomb.

  The only drawback to the Bombadil I found was it's size -
  specifically, the length of the wheelbase. My Atlantis fit perfectly
  in a standard Amtrak bike box. I removed the seat and took off the
  bars, but was able to leave both wheels in place. With the Bombadil, I
  had to remove the front wheel to get it to fit. Whentouring, Pamela
  and I like to use public transportation occassionally. I was surprised
  one day to find that the Bomb didn't fit very well on a bus front
  rack. Thanks to a patient and accommodating bus driver, we were still
  able to make the trip. On a commuter train with a hanging bike rack,
  where every other bike hung perfectly, my Bombadil had to hang at an
  angle due to it's length. This summer, if I'm able to get in a short
  tour, I'll be fitting the Bombadil with 700x40 Marathon Supremes.
  These will have enough volume for a road tour and gravel roads and I
  hope they will allow easier transport and packing.

  There you go!

  Dave

  On Apr 9, 4:25 pm

[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-11 Thread Dave Craig
Dan

Pamela and I are sitting here together and thinking about this one.

Here's a brief list, based on my two rules: personal experience and
Riv content (only rides we've done on our Rivs - actually, Pamela has
a Heron!)

I'm going to cut to the chase and make this list really simple - Ride
the Pacific Coast - specifically, all or any part of the stretch from
Seattle to San Luis Obispo.  Here's why:

Tours for newbies - this is a well-established route with lots of
services. Camping is usually easy and cheap. There are lots of other
bike tourists to talk to and learn from. It's quite a social scene!
Some sections do have a lot of traffic, but then there are grand
stretches with few cars.

Best one week tour - it is easy to put together a nice stretch for one
week - logistically, you could easily ride south for awhile and then
ride back north. There are also some great loops in Oregon and
Washington - see the Adventure Cycling site.

Best one month tour - Seattle to San Francisco. Again, easy logistics,
beautiful scenery.

Ride the coast in the fall if you can. The weather is wonderful. There
is less traffic.

We've ridden large portions of the coast three times. Our favorite
ride involved taking the Amtrak Coast Starlight from LA to Seattle.
Bringing your bike on Amtrak is easy and having a roomette is
wonderful! The fare includes all meals - it's like a BB on the train.
We then rode our bikes south from Seattle to San Luis Obispo where we
took the train back to LA. We were on the road for 5 to 6 weeks. I
plan trips and deal with complicated logistics for a living. The thing
I like most about riding down the coast is that I can do it with
absolutely no pre-planning except buying a train ticket. Really, we
just get on our bikes and ride. THAT is a holiday!

Dave

On Apr 10, 7:36 am, It Depends dmccu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Great stuff!  Many thanks, Professor Dave!

 Can you offer a few best of lists?  For example, your top two or
 three:  best tours for newbies, best tours with kids, best one-week
 tours, best one-month tours, best mixed-surface tours, best inn-to-inn
 tours, best tours for a particular season, or whatever lists strike
 your fancy.

 Best,
 Dan

 On Apr 7, 1:36 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  It is that time of year again. Many of us have probably started
  planning or dreaming about a summer tour. I'd like to offer my
  commitment for the next 5 days, until midnight on Sunday, April 11th,
  to address questions from anyone who is curious about loaded touring,
  has questions about gear, or other topics relevant to traveling and
  camping by bike. Riv related content - I tour on my RBW bikes and I
  don't meet many other Riv riders on the road!

  My motivation: I'm going through a difficult time right now with an
  aging and ill parent and I'm seeing my own opportunity for a summer
  tour slowly evaporate. I would love to have the productive distraction
  of helping others to realize their own dreams of travel by bike. I am
  not selling anything.

  My background: I work as a professor of adventure education at a small
  southwestern college. My entire adult life has been dedicated to
  teaching others how to enjoy and travel safely in the outdoors. I am a
  League of American Bicyclists Bike Ed instructor. I have traveled
  thousands of miles as a bike tourist and have spent years of my life
  living outdoors in remote wilderness. I have a Quickbeam, a Bombadil,
  and an Atlantis. I've toured with the last two.

  Rules of engagement and disclosure: Ask a question or questions via
  this forum or via a personal message to me. I clearly don't know
  everything and will say so when I don't know. If I don't have direct
  experience with something, I'll also say so. No BS. I expect to learn
  as well as share. As an open forum, anyone else with direct experience
  on a topic should feel free to weigh in or answer a question. If I get
  a question via email that I can't answer, I'll post it back to the
  group after asking permission from the sender. Please, don't answer a
  question with info that you've only heard or read about. Internet
  forums are already too full of that kind of second or third hand
  advice. That's one of the problems with getting good answers to bike
  touring questions. However, if you know of a great resource that's
  relevant (like RBW), please share it. I will try to check in on the
  RBW Owners Bunch no less than three times a day in order to answer
  questions.

  Moderator Jim: The RBW forum is the only internet forum I care to
  participate in. I appreciate the quality of thought and the civil
  discourse I find here. If you believe that my offer isn't an
  appropriate use of this forum, let me know and I'll retract my offer
  without a fuss.

  Professor Dave- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-11 Thread Dave Craig
Atlantis versus Bombadil for loaded touring

Compare and contrast?! As a college professor, I feel like I've been
given an essay question. :)

OK . . .  here's the brief and simple low down on MY experience with
these two bikes for loaded touring - YMMV, especially if you are a
smaller person using a smaller frame size.  First, a disclaimer:

The bikes (Atantis and Bomb) were set up quite differently - more on
that below. Therefore, I don't think I can provide a *truly* objective
comparison between the two frames. How one sets up a bike has as much
to do with how a bike deals with loaded touring as any other factor.

Relevant Bombadil set up: 60cm frame; Tubus Cargo rear rack; Tubus
Tara front rack; Ortlieb handlebar bag/panniers; Schwalbe Marathon
Supreme 700x50's on Velocity Dyads/Phil hubs - 36 spokes front/40
rear; 48cm noodle bars/bar end shifters

Relevant Atlantis set up: 64cm frame; Riv Nitto big front and rear
racks; 36 spoke Salsa Delgado rims/XT hubs with 700x37 Pasela
Tourguards; no handlebar bag; using Ortlieb panniers;46cm noodle bars/
bar end shifters.

After adjusting with different stems, I fit the same on both bikes -
nearly exactly the same reach and bar height.

Simple review: I like the Bombadil better for loaded touring.

I have a 94cm PBH and I weigh over 200 pounds. I'm pretty fit and I
like to stand when I climb. I've found that standing often while
riding helps me to avoid a sore butt. I think that smaller, lighter
folks who tour on smaller bikes cannot truly appreciate how much tall
frames flex under load from a large, strong rider, standing on climbs
with a full pannier set.

Even on the Atlantis, with its relatively heavy tubeset, I found it to
be less stable than I really wanted. Although it toured fine, it
didn't really handle as well as I wanted on uneven ground with a load.
When the Bombadil came out, I saw the extra top tube and wondered if
that would be a solution for making a large frame feel better. I test
rode the bike at RBW and I was surprised at how light and responsive
it was.

I chose my rack set up on the Bombadil to maximize a sturdy, stable
feel. Everything feels tight and as if the racks are part of the
frame. Off road and on, and whether I was standing or sitting, the
Bombadil felt solid and predictable. Surprisingly, the bike has the
most amazing low speed handling with packs on I have ever experienced.
At speed, I find that most touring bikes handle just fine, but at slow
speeds, they are unwieldy - not the Bomb.

The only drawback to the Bombadil I found was it's size -
specifically, the length of the wheelbase. My Atlantis fit perfectly
in a standard Amtrak bike box. I removed the seat and took off the
bars, but was able to leave both wheels in place. With the Bombadil, I
had to remove the front wheel to get it to fit. When touring, Pamela
and I like to use public transportation occassionally. I was surprised
one day to find that the Bomb didn't fit very well on a bus front
rack. Thanks to a patient and accommodating bus driver, we were still
able to make the trip. On a commuter train with a hanging bike rack,
where every other bike hung perfectly, my Bombadil had to hang at an
angle due to it's length. This summer, if I'm able to get in a short
tour, I'll be fitting the Bombadil with 700x40 Marathon Supremes.
These will have enough volume for a road tour and gravel roads and I
hope they will allow easier transport and packing.

There you go!

Dave



On Apr 9, 4:25 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Apr 8, 2:25 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  I have a 64cm Atlantis. I love it. Currently, it has 32 spoke wheels
  front and rear and I use it for long road rides without luggage. I'm
  really happy with my Bombadil as a touring bike. It has 36 spokes in
  the front and 40 in the back.

 Can you compare and contrast touring on your Atlantis v. touring on
 your Bombadil?

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-11 Thread Dave Craig
Trailers and panniers.

Here we go - last one.

I owned a BOB trailer briefly. I bought it with the intention of using
it on a tour and I used it around town, but never toured with it. We
have seen/met lots of folks on the road with BOB's and have never
heard anything negative about these trailers. Everyone seemed
satisfied. I know that BOB's have lots of advantages, such as allowing
someone to use a bike that might otherwise be marginal or
inappropriate for touring.

Why don't we tour with BOB's and why did I sell mine? An important
reason is that we prefer the flexibility of combining public transit
with biking. Ferries, trains, light rail, buses and the like can be a
great asset when one is injured, sick, tired or simply wants to avoid
riding through the urban jungle. I cannot imagine using a BOB in some
of the situations we've encountered. For example, it's tough enough
getting a bike with panniers into an elevator and onto a San Francisco
BART rail car. Dealing with the extra length of a trailer would be
challenging. With our Ortlieb panniers, we can have the entire load
off our bikes in less than a minute and into large duffel bags for a
single, compact piece to carry on a train or bus. This means we can
wheel our bikes all the way through a crowded station and then pack at
the last minute. That said, I'll bet regular BOB users would have good
strategies and suggestions for dealing with the BOB on transit.

The biggest reason I prefer panniers? OK, I love the look of a touring
bike loaded with panniers. Even with my tight, streamlined rig, my
loaded bike screams out with a Grapes of Wrath look that says, I am a
half-crazed traveler! like those Dust Bowl Okie jalopies and the west-
bound prairie schooners. Looking at the RBW website, you can probably
see why I was attracted to Grant's bikes in the first place.

Take care and happy touring,

Dave


On Apr 11, 7:48 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Tick, tock...

 What do you think of BOB trailers v. panniers?

 Did I get in under the wire??

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
Adam.

Yahoo! I was hoping someone would ask about these.

I've not only used Trangia stoves touring, I also have switched many
of my sea kayaking expedition groups over to these. In short, these
stoves are great. They are durable, simple and relatively light.They
come with a cool teapot. They are made by workers who earn a livable
wage.

Unless you destroy the stove by beating it with a rock, it will always
work. I camp on beaches for weeks at a time with beginning sea
kayakers and they've always had stove issues due to sand and
mechanical breakdowns. This has never happened with a Trangia. I did a
two week field stove comparison with a group of experienced students a
year or so ago. We compared the Trangia with the MSR Isopro and the
MSR Whisperlite. The Trangia was the hands-down favorite.

The best thing about Trangias for touring in the US, is that it seems
that every hardware store in the country sells denatured alcohol - and
usually in quart of pint sizes. Lacking that, you can almost always
find a product called HEET. I've heard that people use Everclear,
and I've tried it at home, but never on a trip.

Downsides - well, pot sizes are limited due to the low heat output.
Also, my 20 year old students NEED the 25 series set to serve two
people adequately. My wife and I use the smaller 27 series and it
works fine for us, but we don't really pound food. I use the pots for
cooking and eating when I'm on an expedition along with a single
spoon. I've found the stove is only adequate for cooking more advanced
meals, so if you are a gourmet, look elsewhere. Alcohol stoves are
less efficient than isobutane stoves for LONG trips without the
ability to ressupply. I can make a single, 8oz isobutane canister last
for 9 days. That same period requires about 32oz of alcohol for me.

As an aside. I believe that the key to using any stove efficiently
during long trips is learning how to use a pot cozy. Do an internet
search for backpack cozy cooking and you'll get the idea.All of my
students now use pot cozies for meal prep - we use half the fuel we
used to.

Dave

On Apr 7, 6:02 pm, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'd love to hear about about your experiences with the trangia stoves
 Riv sells after months of cooking.
 Cheers,
 Adam

 On Apr 7, 1:49 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
Happyriding:

I have a 64cm Atlantis. I love it. Currently, it has 32 spoke wheels
front and rear and I use it for long road rides without luggage. I'm
really happy with my Bombadil as a touring bike. It has 36 spokes in
the front and 40 in the back. I've never broken a spoke on a well-
built 36 spoke touring wheel, but I thought I'd build the Bombadil up
with an extra strong rear wheel.

I don't have any experience with Riv's wheel builds. They all seem
like quality parts to me and I'll bet they are fine.

I'll just insert here that one can build the ultimate, bombproof
wheel and still have a breakdown. Last summer, the rear wheel on my
Bomba (40 spokes, velocity dyad rim and Phil cassette hub) split down
the middle due to a manufacturing defect. I've never had such an
overbuilt and expensive wheel and I felt a little foolish. It didn't
help that Pamela has been riding the same set of inexpensive, but
handbuilt, salsa delgado rims with LX hubs for at least 3,000 miles
and she's never even had to true them! My advice? A well built wheel
with 36 spokes and decent, but not super expensive, hubs will serve
you well.

Dave

On Apr 7, 9:17 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Apr 7, 3:03 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

  The
  Atlantis feels more stable with a load than my sports tourer did and
  the Bombadil feels better still at my weight (210) and a full set of
  gear.

 What size is your Atlantis?

 Wheels: How many spokes front and rear do you personally use?  Which
 of Rivendell's wheel builds would you recommend?

 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
Riv-related product. The German mirror Riv sells works great - I use
it on my Surly Big Dummy around town.

For touring, I prefer the Blackburn road brake lever mounted mirror.
It is easily removable for bike packing.

Both Pamela and I prefer bar mounted mirrors. I don't use one on my
Atlantis or the QB on local rides. For touring, I always use a mirror.

Dave

On Apr 7, 9:19 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Mirrors: for or against?  Handlebar or helmet mounted?

 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: S24O for a complete newbie!

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
René

You've seen this, right?

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_camping/a_kit_for_one_night_out

I'm the opposite of Anne in terms of tent size. I like smallish tents
because they are usually lighter and they pack easier. Get a sleeping
bag that will keep you warm. 50 degrees is a little sparse for May on
the coast. I use 30 - 40 degree bags for coastal camping. Pamela
sleeps cold in anything above a 30 degree bag, even in the summer.

Overall, don't fret too much about gear or packing. If you have to
strap stuff on your bike in crazy ways, so be it. If you have to push
your bike because it is unrideable, that's fine too. You are one on
end of the learning progression that everyone who camps goes through.
Don't listen to too many experts, particularly salespeople. As long as
you sleep warm and well at night (and even if you don't), you'll
discover soon what works FOR YOU and you'll have some great stories to
remember with your son years down the road.

Dave

On Apr 8, 2:17 am, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm going to do my very first S24O in China Camp (Marin county, CA) on the
 weekend of May 8 - 9 with my 11 year old son. I have absolutely no
 experience and the only camping I did years ago (too many...) was in the
 beach in Venezuela where we would bring everything by car/boat.

 I chose China Camp because I already know the place, know the trails, and
 feel that if it doesn't work out, we're quite close to the car. I have
 purchased a 2 person REI Quarter Dome tent, but I'm wondering if a 3 person
 tent would be a better choice if we want to invite someone along. I also got
 a pair of Big Agnes Lost Dog (rated 50 deg) sleeping bags with their
 respective air matresses. I'm planning to use my Bombadil to bike from the
 main parking lot (at one end of the Shoreline Trail) by the Fishing Village
 to the campgrounds (at the other end). It's about 5 miles or so, so it won't
 be a disaster if I make mistakes. It's also a good manageable distance for
 my son.

 Here is my list of questions... :-)

 1.- What else do I need to bring? At this time, I'm not planning to cook;
 we'll just bring sandwiches and water in bottles and our Camelbaks. I'm
 leaving the logistics of cooking/warm food for another time.

 2.- How should I pack? I'll have to carry all the stuff for both of us as my
 son's Specialized 29er cannot carry anything. He'll have his small Camelbak,
 but that's about it. I do have the medium and huge front baskets with their
 respective medium and large sackville bags. I also have a medium sackville
 saddlebag. I can mount the Nitto rear pannier rack, but all I currently have
 is a pair of the small Ortlieb panniers I used to commute with a few years
 ago. Budget-wise, at most I might be able to get the large sackville
 saddlebag, or a set of rear panniers.

 I don't think I'll be doing anything beyond the S24Os this year; but I do
 want to do them on a regular basis. I have no idea what will happen or what
 we'll do once we've set up camp, but I'm looking forward to discovering this
 new dimension.

 Please feel free to give me all the advice you think I'll need, and even
 advice you think I may not... you never know. If you want to e-mail me
 off-list, feel free to do so. As was incredibly excited when I discovered
 what an S24O was, shortly after I discovered RBW and got my bikes there late
 last year. If I don't get started now, the whole inertia of work and
 travelling for work will drag me down and by the time I realize it, another
 year will have passed. It's been a recurring theme for me. My son is also
 growing up relentlessly, so if I don't do it now, it might soon be too late.

 Thanks again for all your support and guidance; I've certainly learned a lot
 from all of you, and continue to do so...

 René

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
Not really an alternate view, Anne. I wrote:

I've found the stove is only adequate for cooking more advanced
meals, so if you are a gourmet, look elsewhere.

You and I are definitely on the same page here. However, I will point
out that my students and I do eat real food on our expeditions,
including raw ingredients (fish, veggies, etc). The stove works fine,
but it is not as capable as isobutane or white gas stoves for more
complex meals.

Trangia makes a isobutane burner for their wonderful pot system. It is
nearly as reliable as the alcohol burner, it is quiet, it simmers
beautifully and has all of the other advantages of actual stoves.

See: http://www.trangia.se/english/2917.trangia_accessories.html

Dave

On Apr 8, 9:30 am, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 1:10 AM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

   I did a

  two week field stove comparison with a group of experienced students a
  year or so ago. We compared the Trangia with the MSR Isopro and the
  MSR Whisperlite. The Trangia was the hands-down favorite.

  The best thing about Trangias for touring in the US, is that it seems
  that every hardware store in the country sells denatured alcohol - and
  usually in quart of pint sizes.

 Here's an alternative point of view: Trangias are very, very reliable
 for what they're good for. But it's difficult to actually cook with
 them. You can boil water, as long as you don't want to boil a lot of
 it and you're not in a big hurry, and they make great popcorn, but you
 can't cook. If you have raw ingredients and you want to cook them, you
 need an actual stove.

 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: S24O for a complete newbie!

2010-04-08 Thread Dave Craig
Thanks for this, Jim! Great article.

On Apr 8, 9:46 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 While the gear recommendations above are worth your consideration, and
 could make a few recommendations of products and strategies that have
 worked ok for me, I believe you will learn best by doing. The beauty
 of a S24O is that you only have to live with your mistakes for 24
 hours or less. I recently linked this old Dirt Rag article about,
 shall we say, bare-bones touring on the HC blog, and I think it's
 worth a few minutes of reading for the 
 perspective.http://www.dirtragmag.com/print/article-print.php?ID=859

 On Apr 8, 4:17 am, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm going to do my very first S24O in China Camp (Marin county, CA) on the
  weekend of May 8 - 9 with my 11 year old son. I have absolutely no
  experience and the only camping I did years ago (too many...) was in the
  beach in Venezuela where we would bring everything by car/boat.

  I chose China Camp because I already know the place, know the trails, and
  feel that if it doesn't work out, we're quite close to the car. I have
  purchased a 2 person REI Quarter Dome tent, but I'm wondering if a 3 person
  tent would be a better choice if we want to invite someone along. I also got
  a pair of Big Agnes Lost Dog (rated 50 deg) sleeping bags with their
  respective air matresses. I'm planning to use my Bombadil to bike from the
  main parking lot (at one end of the Shoreline Trail) by the Fishing Village
  to the campgrounds (at the other end). It's about 5 miles or so, so it won't
  be a disaster if I make mistakes. It's also a good manageable distance for
  my son.

  Here is my list of questions... :-)

  1.- What else do I need to bring? At this time, I'm not planning to cook;
  we'll just bring sandwiches and water in bottles and our Camelbaks. I'm
  leaving the logistics of cooking/warm food for another time.

  2.- How should I pack? I'll have to carry all the stuff for both of us as my
  son's Specialized 29er cannot carry anything. He'll have his small Camelbak,
  but that's about it. I do have the medium and huge front baskets with their
  respective medium and large sackville bags. I also have a medium sackville
  saddlebag. I can mount the Nitto rear pannier rack, but all I currently have
  is a pair of the small Ortlieb panniers I used to commute with a few years
  ago. Budget-wise, at most I might be able to get the large sackville
  saddlebag, or a set of rear panniers.

  I don't think I'll be doing anything beyond the S24Os this year; but I do
  want to do them on a regular basis. I have no idea what will happen or what
  we'll do once we've set up camp, but I'm looking forward to discovering this
  new dimension.

  Please feel free to give me all the advice you think I'll need, and even
  advice you think I may not... you never know. If you want to e-mail me
  off-list, feel free to do so. As was incredibly excited when I discovered
  what an S24O was, shortly after I discovered RBW and got my bikes there late
  last year. If I don't get started now, the whole inertia of work and
  travelling for work will drag me down and by the time I realize it, another
  year will have passed. It's been a recurring theme for me. My son is also
  growing up relentlessly, so if I don't do it now, it might soon be too late.

  Thanks again for all your support and guidance; I've certainly learned a lot
  from all of you, and continue to do so...

  René- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
Ian

Ray has already jumped in with one solution - filters. There are
plenty on the market and most do an acceptable job. Main advantages of
filters? Instant water (no wait time) and no chemical taste/ingestion.
Disadvantages of filters? Usually a mechanical system that may fail or
clog rendering the filter useless; higher weight than chemical
filtration; most filters do not treat viruses (that requires water
purification/chemicals). Because of the possibility for filters to
clog or break, I always carry chemicals. Some filters are field
maintainable/cleanable - that is a plus.

Chemical methods are different - these chemically purify the water. My
current favorite is Aquamira. Chemical purification methods are
usually light weight and dependable. You do have a wait time that
ranges from minutes to hours depending on the dosage, temperature of
the water source and quality of the water. Since I always used to
carry chemicals anyway as a back-up, I stopped using filters
altogether and now just bring chemicals.

Most US water sources in remote areas can be adequately treated with
either method. In places where there is a lot of animal or human life
using and contaminating the water source I usually choose chemical
purification, though some fetid pools I've used have made me wish I
had a filter as well!

Lastly, it is possible to boil your water. In places where I can find
or carry ample fuel and for modest quantities of water (solo trips in
temperate conditions), this works well. I usually boil the water I
need for the next day at night so that it can cool. It is important to
note that simply bringing the water to a full boil is all that is
required in order to treat it. There is no need to boil for any
specific number of minutes.

Dave

On Apr 6, 11:00 pm, Ian Dickson iandicks...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for the offer, Dave.  What's your advice for getting safe
 drinking water on remote trips where you can't possibly carry enough
 and you have to get water from streams?

 Ian

 On Apr 6, 9:36 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  It is that time of year again. Many of us have probably started
  planning or dreaming about a summer tour. I'd like to offer my
  commitment for the next 5 days, until midnight on Sunday, April 11th,
  to address questions from anyone who is curious about loaded touring,
  has questions about gear, or other topics relevant to traveling and
  camping by bike. Riv related content - I tour on my RBW bikes and I
  don't meet many other Riv riders on the road!

  My motivation: I'm going through a difficult time right now with an
  aging and ill parent and I'm seeing my own opportunity for a summer
  tour slowly evaporate. I would love to have the productive distraction
  of helping others to realize their own dreams of travel by bike. I am
  not selling anything.

  My background: I work as a professor of adventure education at a small
  southwestern college. My entire adult life has been dedicated to
  teaching others how to enjoy and travel safely in the outdoors. I am a
  League of American Bicyclists Bike Ed instructor. I have traveled
  thousands of miles as a bike tourist and have spent years of my life
  living outdoors in remote wilderness. I have a Quickbeam, a Bombadil,
  and an Atlantis. I've toured with the last two.

  Rules of engagement and disclosure: Ask a question or questions via
  this forum or via a personal message to me. I clearly don't know
  everything and will say so when I don't know. If I don't have direct
  experience with something, I'll also say so. No BS. I expect to learn
  as well as share. As an open forum, anyone else with direct experience
  on a topic should feel free to weigh in or answer a question. If I get
  a question via email that I can't answer, I'll post it back to the
  group after asking permission from the sender. Please, don't answer a
  question with info that you've only heard or read about. Internet
  forums are already too full of that kind of second or third hand
  advice. That's one of the problems with getting good answers to bike
  touring questions. However, if you know of a great resource that's
  relevant (like RBW), please share it. I will try to check in on the
  RBW Owners Bunch no less than three times a day in order to answer
  questions.

  Moderator Jim: The RBW forum is the only internet forum I care to
  participate in. I appreciate the quality of thought and the civil
  discourse I find here. If you believe that my offer isn't an
  appropriate use of this forum, let me know and I'll retract my offer
  without a fuss.

  Professor Dave

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
Yow. This one hurts. I had actually planned to ride a large portion of
this route this summer. Looks like I'll have to put it on hold due to
family med issues. I was eagerly awaiting the route maps.

As and aside, lots of tourers seem to feel that they can't tour
without the ACA maps and they slavishly follow the route. It is
important to note that, while the ACA maps are great tools, the routes
are neither inherently safer or more interesting than planning your
own way. In fact, choosing your own adventure might be better. ACA
routes see a lot of bike touring use. Locals become used to seeing
bike tourers. Planning your own way through rural areas of the US can
make you an instant local celebrity! Seriously, I toured the entire US
back in the day with just a AAA map of the entire US. A lot of how we
experience true adventure is through dealing with the unexpected.

Dave

On Apr 6, 11:06 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
  Here's my question: Is anyone else waiting longingly for the new
 Sierra Cascades touring maps Adventure Cycling is about to put out?
 The ones that were supposed to be out in April, but now have been
 pushed back to early May? I forsee a trip using those maps this
 summer.

 --
 -- Anne Paulson

 My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
Tires - we like the Pasela tourguards and I've become a fan of the
Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (50c).
I don't have an odometer on any of my bikes so I don't know about our
mileage/flat ratio. I can tell you that, together, my wife Pamela and
I have had few enough flats over our last three summer tours (four
months of riding total) for me to remember where and when each one
occurred and what caused them - that's four flats total. Pamela has
always used 32c Paselas (one flat). I used 37c Paselas one summer (no
flats), 40c Schwalbe Marathon XR's one summer (1 flat), and Schwalbe
Marathon Supreme 50c another summer (2 flats). I did get more flats
with the supremes, but I spent the summer actually trying to puncture
them! I had a stupid grin every time I rode the bike because the
Bombadil felt like a balloon tire bomber with the supremes. Also note
that when I'm not actively trying to get flats, I'm never particularly
careful about avoiding punctures.

Critters - Ortlieb panniers (back rollers) are pretty secure by
themselves. I aromatic food items only go in one specific pannier or
in a separate drybag I carry specifically for food. In places with
serious critter problems - usually high use campgrounds - I hang our
food, cosmetics and other attractive scented items, and trash in the
food pannier and dry bag using nylon cord. In places with bad raccoon
problems, we accept that the animals will open our packs and sometimes
we leave the packs open to avoid damage. Without a reward, the animals
always move on to easier marks.

Protection - None. Nope. Nada. People are generally good and I go
through life expecting that. One of the great realizations I had when
I completed a solo bike tour across the US is how wonderful and
generous the people I met were. I have had a few negative experiences,
but none of these threatened my life or safety and are so overwhelmed
by instances of random acts of kindness showed to me that I have
trouble remembering them.

Dave

On Apr 6, 11:07 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Awesome.

 1) What tires do you like?  How many flats per 1,000 miles do you get?

 2) How do you keep critters out of your stuff at night?

 3) Do you carry any protection to ward off human predators?

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
I've never used a steripen, but I'd anticipate that it would be
limited in the some of the same ways that filters are. It is a
mechanical/electrical system that has the potential to fail, so I'd
still carry a back-up. Still, I've always wanted to try one. Anyone
have direct experience with the steripen?

Dave

On Apr 7, 7:43 am, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 7:29 AM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
  Ian

  Ray has already jumped in with one solution - filters. There are
  plenty on the market and most do an acceptable job. Main advantages of
  filters? Instant water (no wait time) and no chemical taste/ingestion.
  Disadvantages of filters? Usually a mechanical system that may fail or
  clog rendering the filter useless; higher weight than chemical
  filtration; most filters do not treat viruses (that requires water
  purification/chemicals).

 What about the Steripen?

 --
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 My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
Adam

Loading -

The first principle is to travel light overall - you'll have more fun.

Ratios - I'm not super scientific about this, but Pamela and I both
like the way our bikes handle with heavy, dense stuff packed in low
rider panniers in the front, SMALL handlebar bags, and bulky lighter
stuff in the back. We always keep the heavy stuff as low as possible
and we avoid rack top loads when possible. As a starting point, let's
call the loading 60% front and 40% rear. The idea is balanced weight
while riding. By packing relatively heavy stuff up front, we balance
the rider weight that is carried more over the rear wheel. With both
wheels equally sharing the weight, the bike feels balanced on the road
and the rear wheel is less likely to have problems. My solution is to
mess with my packing system until the bike feels right - good steering
response, combined with a balance feel and the acknowledgement that my
rear wheel needs to be protected by sharing the weight more evenly
between wheels.

I have no experience with extensive off road touring. For dirt roads,
the principles are the same as above.

Dave

On Apr 7, 7:17 am, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Could you speak to your experience of how it is most appropriate to
 load a bicycle for:
 a. strictly road touring
 b. mixed terrain (dirt and road touring)

 What ratios of weight do you recommend in the front and rear?

 Thank you!
 Adam

 On Apr 6, 10:36 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  It is that time of year again. Many of us have probably started
  planning or dreaming about a summer tour. I'd like to offer my
  commitment for the next 5 days, until midnight on Sunday, April 11th,
  to address questions from anyone who is curious about loaded touring,
  has questions about gear, or other topics relevant to traveling and
  camping by bike. Riv related content - I tour on my RBW bikes and I
  don't meet many other Riv riders on the road!

  My motivation: I'm going through a difficult time right now with an
  aging and ill parent and I'm seeing my own opportunity for a summer
  tour slowly evaporate. I would love to have the productive distraction
  of helping others to realize their own dreams of travel by bike. I am
  not selling anything.

  My background: I work as a professor of adventure education at a small
  southwestern college. My entire adult life has been dedicated to
  teaching others how to enjoy and travel safely in the outdoors. I am a
  League of American Bicyclists Bike Ed instructor. I have traveled
  thousands of miles as a bike tourist and have spent years of my life
  living outdoors in remote wilderness. I have a Quickbeam, a Bombadil,
  and an Atlantis. I've toured with the last two.

  Rules of engagement and disclosure: Ask a question or questions via
  this forum or via a personal message to me. I clearly don't know
  everything and will say so when I don't know. If I don't have direct
  experience with something, I'll also say so. No BS. I expect to learn
  as well as share. As an open forum, anyone else with direct experience
  on a topic should feel free to weigh in or answer a question. If I get
  a question via email that I can't answer, I'll post it back to the
  group after asking permission from the sender. Please, don't answer a
  question with info that you've only heard or read about. Internet
  forums are already too full of that kind of second or third hand
  advice. That's one of the problems with getting good answers to bike
  touring questions. However, if you know of a great resource that's
  relevant (like RBW), please share it. I will try to check in on the
  RBW Owners Bunch no less than three times a day in order to answer
  questions.

  Moderator Jim: The RBW forum is the only internet forum I care to
  participate in. I appreciate the quality of thought and the civil
  discourse I find here. If you believe that my offer isn't an
  appropriate use of this forum, let me know and I'll retract my offer
  without a fuss.

  Professor Dave- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
I'd like to thank Jim for his continued leadership in this group and
specifically for his well-reasoned response to my concern about my
post.

My goal here is to be helpful and to encourage people of this group
specifically to get out and tour on their Riv bikes by offering advice
about doing so. I completely agree with and support the idea that we
should be discussing Rivendell related topics in order to maintain the
integrity of this group. Here's what I propose:

I've done a sizeable amount of touring on my Atlantis and Bombadil and
the rest of my touring has all been on lugged steel bikes. I've also
used many of the products Rivendell sells - tires, stoves, racks,
fenders, clothing - even pine tar soap! If I could amend my RBW Owners
Bunch offer to respond in the group on just Riv touring related topics
or products then perhaps we can continue. I will respond privately and
off list to any non Riv touring questions via email until the 11th.
After that, I'm off on another course with my students.

Thank you all - especially for the kind words of support.

Dave

On Apr 7, 8:56 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 4/6/10 10:36 PM, Dave Craig at dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

  Moderator Jim: The RBW forum is the only internet forum I care to
  participate in. I appreciate the quality of thought and the civil
  discourse I find here. If you believe that my offer isn't an
  appropriate use of this forum, let me know and I'll retract my offer
  without a fuss.

 Well, since this bit was directed at me, I guess I need to dust off my
 epaulettes and respond... ;^)

 In the strictest sense, this has a high possibility of being outside the
 realm of this group. To put it plainly, a touring topic stream not related
 to Rivendell products isn't within the confines of the definition.

 Dedicated to the discussion of Rivendell Bicycles and products, you don't
 need to own one - just an interest in RBW designs is enough to join in. Ride
 reports encouraged, as is a respectful, supportive and polite tone in all
 posts.

 That being said, I do realize that (a) Riv sells bike camping products, (b)
 many people's enthusiasm for certain Riv models is specifically for the
 touring capabilities, camping and S24O adaptability, and (c) there are
 active touring folks on this list.

 I have to rely upon you and the others who contribute positively in this
 forum to be mindful of balancing those two thoughts.

 If we're discussing Touring in the Capital T sense, I'd suggest having
 the conversation over at the Touring group on phred.org (graciously hosted
 by alex who also hosts/moderates the iBob list).

 http://www.phred.org/mailman/listinfo/touring

 One of the things I feel very strongly about, and have mentioned in the
 various State of the List reports, is that the strength and quality of
 this group discussion has a lot to do with the narrowness and specificity of
 the topic.

 http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/sotlr

 This list began as a subset of the iBob list (again, initially hosted on the
 phred.org servers) specifically because people wanted to talk about
 Rivendell designs and products without dealing with the waves of sniping
 comments by naysayers who didn't necessarily care about RBW products.

 The gen1 RBW list grew, became a bit fractured, then began to implode
 because it was becoming a mini-iBob list - replicating the conversations
 on the iBob list, but idoing so in a smaller venue where folks knew one
 another. The problem was that the tone was nicer, and the quality of
 response was generally reasoned, so people felt more comfortable asking
 questions of the RBW group.

 When some fairly caustic exchanges took place, Rivendell and alex decided to
 pull the plug.  Generally, the discussion topics weren't Rivendell related
 and the tone had taken a decided turn for the worst.

 At that point, a number of us felt that the initial idea was a valid one.
 After emailing both alex and RBW to make sure it was ok, I fired up this
 group, which is where we are now.

 In one sense, we're a bit victimized by the quality of discussion on this
 list. I've been involved with online groups and lists and such for a while,
 and it is a rare thing when positive discussions can be maintained with a
 high signal to noise ratio.

 We're doing that here.  A number of members have recognized that as well,
 which they've been kind enough to share with me privately.

 A great number of people on this list have a lot of knowledge in many areas
 of bicycling - frame design, history, technique, etc.  When they respond to
 questions or share experience within the framework of this group, everyone
 benefits. That's how this list has grown to its current size and retained
 its direct and positive feel.

 To continue that growth, to retain the positive and focused nature of this
 list, I think it's important to maintain the Rivendell component of this
 discussion as topic number one. Rivendell: Touring is probably the way I'd
 see

[RBW] Re: Touring Advice Offered

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
George

I have an Rambo-like bike (Soma Smoothie ES) and toured across the US
on a lugged sports tourer. There is absolutely no reason you can't
tour on your Ram. It all depends on load (yours and luggage). The
Atlantis feels more stable with a load than my sports tourer did and
the Bombadil feels better still at my weight (210) and a full set of
gear.

My favorite front rack is the Tubus Lara - it is light, compact and
strong - made for panniers. You'll need a mid fork adaptor for the Ram
and possibly for the Atlantis. Ask Riv about loading the Ram fork with
luggage. No problem with the Atlantis. Panniers - ask I've said
elsewhere, Ortlieb front rollers.

No problem touring with just the saddlebag in the rear. The weight
rides great there.

One of the wonderful things of our human experience is that we share
these major life events in common - it is part of life. I'm getting a
lot of support from talking with others who have been through the same
experience.

Dave

On Apr 7, 9:18 am, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am planning a modest ride this summer from NE Vermont to Montreal
 and back.  I have a Rambouillet and a Atlantis.  A couple of
 questions:
 1. I would prefer to ride the Ram but it's not a major thing.  Given
 the fact that I'm going to be on good roads, is there enough
 difference between the bikes to make me go with the Atlantis?
 2. I have a Nitto front rack and several boxy style front bags.  I
 don't have any rack for front panniers and zero experience with them.
 Recommendations on rack and front panniers?
 3.  I am planning on using a Carradice Nelson Longflap on the rear but
 no rear panniers.  Any problem with that?
 Sorry about your family situation.  I've been through that twice.
 Thanks for offering your advice.
 GeorgeS

 On Apr 7, 10:41 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  Adam

  Loading -

  The first principle is to travel light overall - you'll have more fun.

  Ratios - I'm not super scientific about this, but Pamela and I both
  like the way our bikes handle with heavy, dense stuff packed in low
  rider panniers in the front, SMALL handlebar bags, and bulky lighter
  stuff in the back. We always keep the heavy stuff as low as possible
  and we avoid rack top loads when possible. As a starting point, let's
  call the loading 60% front and 40% rear. The idea is balanced weight
  while riding. By packing relatively heavy stuff up front, we balance
  the rider weight that is carried more over the rear wheel. With both
  wheels equally sharing the weight, the bike feels balanced on the road
  and the rear wheel is less likely to have problems. My solution is to
  mess with my packing system until the bike feels right - good steering
  response, combined with a balance feel and the acknowledgement that my
  rear wheel needs to be protected by sharing the weight more evenly
  between wheels.

  I have no experience with extensive off road touring. For dirt roads,
  the principles are the same as above.

  Dave

  On Apr 7, 7:17 am, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote:

   Could you speak to your experience of how it is most appropriate to
   load a bicycle for:
   a. strictly road touring
   b. mixed terrain (dirt and road touring)

   What ratios of weight do you recommend in the front and rear?

   Thank you!
   Adam

   On Apr 6, 10:36 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

It is that time of year again. Many of us have probably started
planning or dreaming about a summer tour. I'd like to offer my
commitment for the next 5 days, until midnight on Sunday, April 11th,
to address questions from anyone who is curious about loaded touring,
has questions about gear, or other topics relevant to traveling and
camping by bike. Riv related content - I tour on my RBW bikes and I
don't meet many other Riv riders on the road!

My motivation: I'm going through a difficult time right now with an
aging and ill parent and I'm seeing my own opportunity for a summer
tour slowly evaporate. I would love to have the productive distraction
of helping others to realize their own dreams of travel by bike. I am
not selling anything.

My background: I work as a professor of adventure education at a small
southwestern college. My entire adult life has been dedicated to
teaching others how to enjoy and travel safely in the outdoors. I am a
League of American Bicyclists Bike Ed instructor. I have traveled
thousands of miles as a bike tourist and have spent years of my life
living outdoors in remote wilderness. I have a Quickbeam, a Bombadil,
and an Atlantis. I've toured with the last two.

Rules of engagement and disclosure: Ask a question or questions via
this forum or via a personal message to me. I clearly don't know
everything and will say so when I don't know. If I don't have direct
experience with something, I'll also say so. No BS. I expect to learn
as well as share. As an open forum

[RBW] Re: pannier recommendations

2010-04-07 Thread Dave Craig
Yeah, it does look heavy, but maybe those packs are filled with
marshmallows for s'mores! Just like in backpacking, some folks put a
higher priority on comfort in camp than comfort while traveling. I
love riding and walking as unencumbered as possible, so I carry as
little as possible. I can certainly see the other viewpoint, though -
just different values.

 There certainly are some beautiful bikes in those pictures! Wow!

On Apr 7, 1:32 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Apr 6, 10:10 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

  Interesting. Have you noted that not single person who replied to your
  post recommended the Arkel 54 panniers??

  Here's why I didn't:

  Tremendously overbuilt and oversized - this results in increased
  weight.

 There is a picture of a touring bike that has the full Arkel GT-54
 setup, including front panniers, here:

 http://www.click-stand.com/

 Wow.  That looks heavy.

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[RBW] Re: pannier recommendations

2010-04-06 Thread Dave Craig
Interesting. Have you noted that not single person who replied to your
post recommended the Arkel 54 panniers??

Here's why I didn't:

Tremendously overbuilt and oversized - this results in increased
weight. Compared with the Ortlieb backrollers, this translates to
about 2 pounds extra per pair empty. As you know, if you are flying
anywhere these days, extra weight in your luggage costs money.

Extra capacity - The Arkels are 54 liters per pair versus 40 liters
per pair for the Ortieb back rollers. Extra capacity might seem like a
good thing, but it encourages over packing. EVERY tourist I've seen on
the road who has the Arkel 54 panniers has been carrying a lot of
unnecessary (for me) stuff and this adds up to even more weight you'll
have to roll up hills. Weight is additive - heavier panniers and more
stuff means you'll need a heavier bike frame, heavier wheels, heavier
tires - I can pack EVERYTHING for a 2 month tour INSIDE my front and
rear roller Ortliebs with no load on top of the racks. Traveling as
light as possible when touring can increase your enjoyment overall. I
usually have plenty of energy left at the end of a day to go for
another bike ride (unloaded) or a hike, and I'm not afraid to explore
interesting side roads or go a little extra distance to a campsite
that might be a bit nicer than the one I'd planned.

On the topic of visibility - The red used on the Arkel panniers isn't
really all that visible. First, your panniers are down low and present
a minimal profile from the rear. If you are truly concerned with
visibility on the road, wear a safety yellow or safety orange vest or
jersey. Second, compared with yellow, red isn't all that visible,
especially in low light. The reflective triangles on the back of
Ortieb panniers are stunningly bright when ANY light hits them.
Lastly, I find brightly colored panniers to be a double edged sword.
There are times when I prefer to be less visible so as to avoid
unwanted attention - as when choosing creative camping
possibilities. Again, on the road, I wear a highly visible vest and
the back of my bike sports a yellow safety triangle.

Cost - Ortiebs aren't cheap, but come on, $380.00 for a pair of bags??
REI sells the backrollers for $165.00. The way I travel, that extra
$215.00 bucks would allow me to spend an extra week or more on the
road.

Waterproofness - OK, if you are buying the idea that totally
waterproof bags are not good (I disagree), realize the any decent
pannier will keep your stuff reasonably dry. Realize also that most
tourists don't choose to ride day after day, in day-long downpours. Do
you enjoy riding in the rain now? It is simple to cheaply waterproof
your gear. While wet canyoneering (essentially, using my pack as
flotation) I've been able to keep my gear dry using double trash
compactor bags inside a standard, non-waterproof, backpack.

Dave

On Apr 5, 9:29 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Thanks for the recommendations.

 It looks like Arkel's GT-54 panniers offer the best of both worlds:
 they have a dry sack integrated into the main compartment, which you
 can either use or roll up so it is out of the way.  But they are
 extremely expensive at $380.  I guess you could just buy a dry bag and
 put it in a cheaper non-water proof pannier to get the same benefit.

 Here's something I don't understand about the Ortliebs.  I would like
 to get high visibility panniers, like the yellow Ortliebs.  However,
 the back of the panniers is black. Why did Ortlieb do that instead of
 making the whole thing high vis yellow?  That is one thing I like
 about the Arkels: the whole pannier is red and there's lots of
 reflective striping.

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[RBW] Re: pannier recommendations

2010-04-06 Thread Dave Craig


On Apr 6, 10:52 am, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts.

 Yes, I noticed they looked kind of BIG.  However, I wondered if the
 intent of the design was to allow you to forgo front panniers.  Will a
 bike handle better without front panniers?  Or is it better to have
 some weight on the front too?

I've ridden on tours both ways. Long ago, most of us toured with just
rear panniers. Both my wife and I now prefer our bikes with a little
more weight in the front and a little less in the rear. We pack heavy,
dense stuff in the front panniers and lighter bulky stuff in the rear.
If I had to put numbers to it, the distribution seems about 60% front
and 40% rear. Remember that when you are actually riding your bike,
your body weight is carried more on the rear wheel, so by packing
heavier in the front, the bike ends up being balanced front to rear.


 I am leaning towards the Orlieb Backpacker Plus panniers.  Still too
 big?

Well, those are about 10 liters bigger than the roller panniers. Truth
be told, the rear panniers I now prefer are the Carradice Super C's -
those are 54liters - the same as the Arkels! BUT . . . I have a lot of
self restraint about what I choose to take. I only prefer the
Carradice panniers because I like the canvas! This is the RBW group,
afterall!

  Waterproofness - OK, if you are buying the idea that totally
  waterproof bags are not good (I disagree), realize the any decent
  pannier will keep your stuff reasonably dry

 I'm thinking about carrying a mesh bag and strapping that to the top
 of the rear panniers to dry out anything that is wet.

Great idea! I just bungee wet stuff on top of the load (usually just a
pair of bike shorts that hasn't dried yet). I also carry nylon cord
for a clothesline in camp. If you double the line and twist it tight,
you can insert corners of your clothes into the twists instead of
using clothespins. I told you I travel light! Also remember that most
bike touring in the US travels by stores and towns - 15 minutes at a
laundromat and your stuff is dry again.

  Realize also that most
  tourists don't choose to ride day after day, in day-long downpours. Do
  you enjoy riding in the rain now?

 I hate riding in the rain.  But if I need to get somewhere by a
 certain date, then I'll have to ride in the rain.

I've noticed that many people who buy outdoor gear (kayaks, backpacks,
touring bikes, sleeping bags, etc) tend to over buy based on what they
might do or experience instead of what they'll do 95% of the time. If
you hate riding in the rain, you probably won't do it very often. If
you have to, ANY pannier will work lined with a plastic trash bag.
Waterproof packs are a convenience, not a necessity.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: pannier recommendations

2010-04-06 Thread Dave Craig
No recommendations/experience with the ones you are looking at.

For me, the choice of panniers depends on how committed you are to
commuting. If you ride rain or shine and want a pair of panniers that
are easy to use and waterproof, the small Ortlieb sport packers or
front rollers are great (25-30 liters per pair). I've used these on a
rear rack. They attach/detach quickly when you park or put your bike
on the front of a bus. I've also found that I'm able to commute
comfortably with a single Ortlieb backroller (single 20 liters). I
also use a waterproof backpack for days when I have a little extra to
carry (SealLine brand) or I add a second backroller.

Riv content - my favorite commuting set up is on my QB. Unless I'm
taking the semi (below), it is the system I now use instead of racks
and panniers. I use a light messenger bag over my shoulder and a
medium basket/nitto front rack with a small duffel bag. On days when I
carry a bit more, I stuff the messenger bag in the aforementioned
waterproof backpack and add the other stuff on top.

At the far end of the committed bicycle commuting spectrum, I have my
semi-truck - a Surly Big Dummy with a Burley Nomad trailer!

Dave

On Apr 6, 11:56 am, M. Chandler milehighska...@gmail.com wrote:
 Any recommendation for small-ish panniers for commuting?  I'm looking
 at:

 Lone Peak P-099
 Lone Peak P-100
 Arkel B-26

 They'll be going on a Tubus Cosmo if that makes any difference.

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands

2010-04-06 Thread Dave Craig
Looked at the VO stand. Perhaps I'll give that one a try before I give
up on center stands.

Thanks

On Apr 5, 11:00 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 9:24 AM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

  In my experience with my 60 cm Bombadil, I found the center Esge 2 leg
  stand to be unstable on anything but dead flat, hard ground. I mention
  the size of the bike because I wondered whether the height provided a
  greater lever for destabilizing it.

  I agree that the Esge is not all that stable even on flat concrete and, on

 soft surfaces, it's no better than your $12.95 bb Greenfield. BUT *I*
 use the VO stand which (1) is wider and (2) has these cute little plastic
 feet that give more support. Considerably better.

 But I agree that a rear-triangle-mount stand seems to be best unless you
 really want to keep your bike upright when you remove a wheel (which I do).

 Patrick Moore, grimly bottom-trimming.

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[RBW] Bombadil and short stems

2010-04-06 Thread Dave Craig
I have a 60cm Bombadil and it does indeed have a long top tube for me.
I seem to recall from the beginning that Grant designed the Bombadil
with the dirt drop stem in mind. There are few stems shorter than the
8cm dirt drop.

My Bombadil has an 8cm dirt drop stem and I've used it fully loaded
for long distance touring. With 48cm drop bars and front panniers, the
bike handled predictably and easily. I was amazed at the low speed
handling *and* stability on fast descents. I have noticed that
unloaded as an MTB, using relatively narrow flat bars (48cm flat end
to end), I'm not very comfortable with technical, off road trails. All
of these trails are ones that I can manage easily on other bikes. The
steering feels too responsive and I get a little sketched out. I'll be
putting wider bars on soon - extra bar width should compensate by
slowing down the steering response a bit.

Dave

On Apr 6, 2:22 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Apr 6, 2:34 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

  I will apologize first, but do think this triangapillar is just
  taking the discussion to a silly level.

 Somewhat.  But from an engineering standpoint, three triangles are
 stronger than two.  So technically, it is a stronger design than the
 diaga-piller.  Also, I question whether the diaga-piller, which I
 hereby dub the dragon-pillar because it rolls off the tongue easier,
 is actually stronger.  It creates two flattish somewhat triangular
 shapes.  The flatness is the problem, I think.  Not much strength in
 that.  And really, they aren't even triangles to begin with.  I would
 like to see some test results.

 I also wonder if someone can speak to the concept of using short stems
 on big frames to get the reach right.  The Bombadil has a longish top
 tube for me.  With drop bars, if I want to sit more upright than on a
 road bike, for example when touring, I would have to use a very short
 stem.  From what I've read that affects the handling--negatively.   A
 large frame should have a 12, 13, or 14 cm stem so that one's weight
 is distributed properly between the front and rear.  It seems like the
 Bombadil was designed for mustache bars that extend backwards, but how
 does that affect the handling?

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands

2010-04-05 Thread Dave Craig
Lots of people like the Esge two leg stands. I can only speak from my
experience and from comparing parking my wife's bike with parking my
bike for two months of touring. She seemed to be able to park anywhere
while I had to be a lot more selective.

Lifting a wheel clear of the ground was the only good thing I found
with a two legged stand. However, with a touring load, I didn't find
this all that stable or desireable. Without the panniers (and my
panniers take less than a minute to remove), it is just as easy to
flip the bike over onto the bars and seat.

In my experience with my 60 cm Bombadil, I found the center Esge 2 leg
stand to be unstable on anything but dead flat, hard ground. I mention
the size of the bike because I wondered whether the height provided a
greater lever for destabilizing it.

David mentions not being able to use rear triangle stands with a kid
trailer. This is true for some set-ups, but not all. For example,
Burley makes an axle hitch that substitutes for the classic hitch
that would compete for space on the rear triangle with the kickstand.
We don't have kids, but we do have a Burley Nomad, and it tows just
fine with the axle hitch and the rear kickstand.

Dave



On Apr 4, 11:07 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 The nice thing about a 2-leg stand is that it will hold the bike up when a
 wheel is removed for repair (you may have to weight front or rear to keep
 the bike's other wheel on the ground), which in my opinion (opinion only, as
 I've not yet toured) might be good for loaded touring.





 On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 10:35 PM, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
  +1 for the rear mounted stand. I've used a 2-legged ESGE stand and
  single legged stands on bike tours and, while they are better than no
  stand at all, they are finicky. I installed a rear triangle stand on
  my wife's touring bike last summer. She could park on nearly any
  surface and her bike was stable. I was definitely envious!

  Patrick - If you have a mount brazed on, I'd love to see the design.

  Dave

  On Apr 4, 6:05 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
   On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:57 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
  wrote:
Second, if you leave
it long enough, it seems to support even off-center loads far, far
  better
than does a bb-mount 1-leg stand and, I dare say, perhaps even better
  than a
2-leg stand. I have yet to test it with, say, 25 lb in the leftside
  pannier,
but with 15 lb, it supports the bike fine, especially if you turn the
  front
wheel sharply to the right.

   I agree with this. They work quite well, even for our tandem when we
   put a bunch of crap on it.

I think that, God willing, I shall have some brazing done to the
  Motobecane
(Riv content: this is a very Riv-ish bike: an upscale racing model that
  can
carry 45 lb of groceries and wear 30 mm tire with fenders). First, a
left-rear-triangle kickstand mount.

   okay - tell me how where you find a mount plate like that? I think
   it'd be great to have a kickstand plate mounted there but I have no
   idea how it would work.

   -sv

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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
 (505) 227-0523- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: pannier recommendations

2010-04-04 Thread Dave Craig
Counterpoint - My wife and I have many, many miles of loaded touring
with Ortliebs. The packs are simple, light, durable, relatively secure
from raccoons and other chiselers and yes, waterproof. Ortlieb packs
are very secure and I've even used them off road.

I have thousands of miles of backpacking, sailing, sea kayaking and
bike touring as a professional guide in wet and hot weather - I'll
take simple, waterproof packs any time over complex, multipocketed,
non-waterproof designs. Many people prefer pockets, but it is easy to
organize your gear inside a single bag.

My favorite non-waterproof pannier is the Carradice Super-C. These do
get soaked externally during a heavy rain, but stuff stays remarkably
dry inside. I used these packs during a tour of the Pacific coast and
they were fine - a little bulkier than Ortiebs, but the single, rear
external pockets were handy for last minute items, delicate fruit, and
quick access stuff like rain gear. My current set up is the Super-C's
in the back and Ortlieb front rollers up front.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45341...@n04/4163677754/

I also take a small dry bag for carrying extra food to camp, hanging
food away from critters, and for beer hauling as an improvised
cooler.

On Apr 4, 7:45 pm, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,

 I had pretty much decided to get some Ortliebs, but then I read this
 thread:

 http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-270129.html

 which points out that waterproof may not be such a good thing in hot
 weather.   What are some good non-waterproof panniers?

 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands

2010-04-04 Thread Dave Craig
+1 for the rear mounted stand. I've used a 2-legged ESGE stand and
single legged stands on bike tours and, while they are better than no
stand at all, they are finicky. I installed a rear triangle stand on
my wife's touring bike last summer. She could park on nearly any
surface and her bike was stable. I was definitely envious!

Patrick - If you have a mount brazed on, I'd love to see the design.

Dave

On Apr 4, 6:05 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:57 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  Second, if you leave
  it long enough, it seems to support even off-center loads far, far better
  than does a bb-mount 1-leg stand and, I dare say, perhaps even better than a
  2-leg stand. I have yet to test it with, say, 25 lb in the leftside pannier,
  but with 15 lb, it supports the bike fine, especially if you turn the front
  wheel sharply to the right.

 I agree with this. They work quite well, even for our tandem when we
 put a bunch of crap on it.

  I think that, God willing, I shall have some brazing done to the Motobecane
  (Riv content: this is a very Riv-ish bike: an upscale racing model that can
  carry 45 lb of groceries and wear 30 mm tire with fenders). First, a
  left-rear-triangle kickstand mount.

 okay - tell me how where you find a mount plate like that? I think
 it'd be great to have a kickstand plate mounted there but I have no
 idea how it would work.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: Bar height and hand pain... don't know what else to do...

2010-02-24 Thread Dave Craig
On Feb 24, 12:13 am, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 I can't find a position where I will ride with no pain in my hands.

Wow, I'll bet this is frustrating for you.

I was going to advise that you ditch the M-bars as well, but you
indicate that the AHH with noodles causes hand pain as well. Other
posters have offered sound advice and I'll try not to repeat that.

First, it is important to change your grip frequently and to ride with
your hands resting on the bar, instead of gripping it. Obviously there
are times when one must grip firmly, but these are the exception
rather than the rule.

Second, it sounds like you've been raising the bars, how about
lowering them? A friend of mine simply won't buy the same height as
the seat or higher mantra. His experience tells him that he is much
more comfortable with the bars a couple of inches lower than the
saddle. You're not comfortable with the position you are in. So, you
lose nothing by lowering the bars to try out something new.

I guess I'll repeat that saddle tilt can make a big difference. Too
little back tilt and you'll slide forward. Too much and you'll get
numbness elsewhere. Don't be afraid to angle the saddle back past
horizontal. I've seen what I consider to be crazy amounts of rearward
tilt on Brooks saddles and the riders' experiences are that they are
comfortable. As with handlebar height, we have to let go of our
prejudices to deal with ride positioning objectively.

On this last point - letting go of prejudices or strongly held
opinions about what is true - it is important to have an open mind in
the broader sense. My brother was never able to get comfortable on an
upright bike. Once he let go of that vision of cycling and bought a
recumbent, he became a happy cyclist. Another friend has MS and
couldn't ride an upright anymore, so he quit riding years ago. After I
convinced him to change his view on what a bicycle might be, he bought
a trike. He's happy as heck and is taking a bicycle 3 week bicycle
tour with his son this summer.

Good luck,

Dave


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[RBW] Re: black twine for winter project

2010-02-20 Thread Dave Craig
I found black, hemp twine at a local craft store (Michael's). I found
that the twine faded easily on another bike, so I dyed it with a
black, permanent marker. The results have been great after many months
of riding. Also, the black looked funky with amber shellac. Clear was
much better.

I can't seem to post a link to my flickr account. I have pictures of
the tape job/twine on my Riv QB.

Dave

On Feb 19, 3:36 pm, Shakesbiker pbdemar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yes, I am a lurker, but I do have a Riv Saluki that I am hoping to do
 some twining on.  Does anyone know of a source for the colored
 (especially black) hemp twine suitable for handlebars? By the way,
 after my last post about changing my wheels, I had some wonderful
 wheels and dynohub built by Jim at Hiawatha.  I am thrilled with his
 work and wanted to give a shout out of thanks!

 Pepe
 Saluki and Centurion ProTour

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[RBW] Re: Cross Levers Only?

2010-02-18 Thread Dave Craig
No real issue come to mind. The argument about access to brakes has
been stated before. Really though, in terms of braking, it's not much
different than riding on the flats on a road bike set up without cross
levers or using long bar ends on an MTB. I just cover the brakes when
I'm riding in situations where they are likely to be used (e.g., heavy
traffic, crowded bike/ped paths). At higher speeds, it's often a
better tactic to do a quick turn as opposed to braking when
confronted with an unexpected obstacle.

I'm setting up my Bombadil for touring this summer with MTB flat bars,
drop bar ends and stoker levers. On a big bike like the 60cm Bomb,
having modular flat bars and shorter cables instead of 48cm noodles
will make packing the bike a bit easier.

Dave

On Feb 18, 4:54 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 So I'm thinking out loud here: Any reason not to set up some noodles
 with cross levers up top and tandem stoker levers where normal brake
 levers would be? Could even combine that with thumbies for an ultra
 compact command center, and avoid those long wrap-around cables from
 bar-end shifters that seem to always interfere with a rando bag out
 front. I like the idea of varied positions on the noodles, but would
 like to eliminate redundant braking and use the cross levers alone -
 not as interrupters. Only down side I suppose is in emergencies when
 you happen to be in the drops, or riding the hoods. Any other reasons
 not to try this set up?

 Marty

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[RBW] Re: Hypothetical Bombadil trade and observations.

2010-02-11 Thread Dave Craig
I have a couple of Riv bikes that are pretty close in purpose - a
Bombadil and an Atlantis. When I walk into the garage, I sometimes
wonder whether I should sell one or the other. That feeling disappears
when I ride them. The 60cm Bombadil is set up for riding off road and
I've got a spare set of wheels/tires for touring. I've got it set up
currently with flat bars and barends, though I've toured on it with
noodle bars. Next summer, just for kicks, I'm going try drop bar ends
on the flat bars as my touring set up. My 64cm Atlantis is set up for
road with noodle bars, Jack Brown tires and (relatively) lighter 32
spoke rims - no fenders and no racks - it's a pretty decent road bike
that still allows me to ride our local loops that include dirt roads.
Having done long, self-contained tours on both bikes, my preference
for loaded touring is the Bombadil, so it wears a Tubus Cargo rack
full time and I've got a front rack and fenders that I can quickly
add. I now use my Atlantis for all of my long day rides, not including
the times when I'm heading out the door with the intention of riding
single track and dirt roads - for that I use the Bombadil.

Even though these two bikes are pretty close to interchangeable in the
RBW line, they fill much different roles in my cycling life. The key
for me has been setting them up very differently. I suppose if I
didn't actually tour every summer and if I was still into riding
aggressively on single track, I would probably sell the Bombadil in
favor of a dedicated MTB. The Atlantis is really fine for everything
else. Sometimes, because I have the Bombadil, I think I might trade
the Atlantis for a Hilsen . . . but it's such a versatile bike (more
so than the Hilsen) and if I ever really had to downsize, the Atlantis
is the one bike I would want.

I do have another couple of bikes that see regular use as my
commuters: a Surly Big Dummy and a Riv Quickbeam. I've finally reached
the point where my bikes are the default and my car sits for weeks at
a time, so these two bikes get a lot of use. Both are set up with
lights, fenders and racks. When I have lots to carry, the BD goes to
work. Otherwise, I ride the QB. If I lived somewhere flat, I'd
probably rig the QB with a trailer and use it exclusively.

Isn't it wonderful that we are fortunate enough to have these kinds of
choices in life?


Dave


On Feb 11, 12:26 pm, jinxed hbcl...@yahoo.com wrote:
 So there have been several recent threads I have been following with
 interest. They are all revolving around questions I have regarding my
 Bombadil. Canti vs. side pull, 26 vs. 650b vs. 700, and the subtle
 shades of Rivendell models, ie: bikes like the Hunq and Sam falling in
 between other existing models.

 My first Rivendell happened to be my first 650b as well with the
 purchase of my Bleriot. I fell in love with it instantly. It became
 the only bike I rode. Then having a whetted appetite for Riv designs I
 wanted to expand with an off road specific bike and debated between
 the Bombadil, and Atlantis ultimately deciding on the Bombadil.

 My hope was that I had chosen a bike that had different capabilities
 than the Bleriot to compliment it. I am finding that other than the
 difference in handlebars position, the bikes are extremely close in
 capability for me. This is where the wheel size is coming into play.
 After riding some similar lugged/rigid 26 wheeled bikes back to back
 with my Bomba, I find I prefer the 26 while riding technical rocky
 terrain. Most likely because that is what I have been mountain biking
 on for 20 years. It's not that I do not like the Bomba, but I feel the
 2 Riv's I have are sort of redundant in the terrain I am comfortable
 riding them in. The thread regarding canti bikes had me thinking that
 if the Bleriot had cantis and just a little knobbier tire option than
 the fatty rumpkins...the Bomba would have never been bought.

 This has me questioning my keeping the Bombadil or at least how I have
 it set up. So I have been considering swapping it to drop bars,
 narrower tires, and using it for longer rides where I am carrying my
 panniers to go camping, but only on groomed mixed terrain, dirt roads
 etc. Then finding a 26 wheeled bike for the MTB use, and leave my
 Bleriot as is because I love it as my go to bike.

 In the midst of this mental acrobatics, I completely stumbled on a 26
 wheeled xo-3 and became the new owner. So now I truly have 3 bikes in
 very close relation.

 I realize many of the members here are multiple Riv bike owners, and I
 am wondering how you diversify their use? They all seem so very
 closely capable with new models coming to fill seemingly narrow
 gaps.

 All this boils down to me considering a trade on the Bomba for
 something of the same level but in a canti version 700c. Canti
 Romulus? A true all-rounder?

 Thoughts?

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[RBW] Re: All-Rounder Deal - Anyone dig 26 here?

2010-01-04 Thread Dave Craig
Marty

Are you aware that the Surly Long Haul Trucker is now available in 26-
inch wheels for all sizes? I know it is not lugged, but it's a good
bike that has developed a loyal following with bike tourists. I know
several folks with the LHT here in town and have met many, many others
on tours and they've all been very happy with their bikes. The 60 and
62cm frames (or complete bikes) designed for 26-inch wheels can be
ordered by any bike shop.

Dave

On Jan 4, 4:45 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 I threw in a bid on an All-Rounder that ended up in someone else's
 hands yesterday via Ebay. Went for a little over 600, which I thought
 was a great deal - but a few bucks past my limit. Hopefully someone
 here snatched it up, and can report on the coming build. Guess I'll
 upgrade my MTB conversion and wait for the next one. It's tough to
 find a tall-frame 26-wheel lugged steel ride, (my Trek is a 61cm, and
 I'm running 1.75 Pasella's) and I happen to like the feel, not that
 there's anything wrong with 700c or 650b... If I'm ever in the
 position to have a custom built, I'd be tempted to build it around 26
 wheels. I know the prevailing winds whisper 700c for anything over
 60cm,, but having ridden both styles, it's kind of a toss up to me.
 The trick is finding that elusive tall-lugged-steel frame.

 Marty

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[RBW] Blue cloth tape/black twine finish on silver QB

2010-01-04 Thread Dave Craig
Hey, Folks:

Steve F's recent search for bar tape that matches the silver QB's blue
decals prompted me to post these pictures of my QB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45341...@n04/

The tape is the dark blue, cotton stuff that RBW sells, coated with 5
or so coats of clear shellac. Also, I love the twine finish on
shellac'd bars, but brown doesn't aways work with the color scheme.
I'd never seen other colors of twine on bars, so I thought I'd post my
results in case anyone else is interested here.

I found black hemp twine at a local craft store when I was building my
Bombadil. That twine faded over time to a worn looking brown/black.
For the QB, I used a black, permanent marker to dye the twine before I
shellac'd it. Months later, the twine is still jet black. Note - I
colored the twine AFTER I had lashed it to the bars!

Happy New Year to all!

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Silver Quickbeam bar tape

2009-12-28 Thread Dave Craig
Steve,

Sorry, no photo. I'm away on a trip until Jan 2nd. However, my silver
bike's blue bar tape looks very similar to Matt's good looking QB,
although a bit darker. I used closer to 4-5 coats of clear shellac and
it matches the QB decal pretty well. Also, my bike has black twine and
silver plugs as I mentioned. I'd be happy to post a few pics next week
if you are still interested.

Dave

On Dec 28, 7:07 am, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu
wrote:
 Thanks--do you guys have a picture of your QB's with the blue cloth tape?  

 Steve

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[RBW] Re: Silver Quickbeam bar tape

2009-12-27 Thread Dave Craig
I have the blue cloth tape as well. I think it is a great match for
the decals once it has been coated with clear shellac.

I also recommend using black hemp twine. I bought mine from a fabric
store (Joanne's House of Fabric). I made the twine a bit darker by
using a permanent marker on it before I shellac'd it. Lastly, I used
silver barend plugs - these looked much nicer than black velox plugs.

Dave

On Dec 27, 5:02 pm, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Congratulations!   My only experience with blue tape is Velox cloth
 bar tape, but I've had good results with it, so I'd recommend it.
 With clear shellac, it becomes a dark blue very similar to the blue of
 the Quickbeam decals.

 On Dec 27, 6:45 pm, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu
 wrote:



  I bought the last 52cm silver Quickbeam for Rivendell last week!  I was 
  posting to the 650b list and surfing the web, trying to find a 650b-wheeled 
  fixed gear frame like a Quickbeam, when a fellow kindly pointed out that 
  the smaller sized Quickbeams from the last batch had 650b wheels.  How that 
  slipped under my radar I'll never know!

  Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has found a blue bartape that matches the 
  blue trim on the silver QB?  I'm a fan of Fizik's Microtex bar tape and 
  their blue looks as though it might be close.

 http://www.fizik.it/catalog_accessories.aspx?subid=bar_tape_microtex_...

  Steven Frederick, East Lansing, MI- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Correct Bombadil size...

2009-12-18 Thread Dave Craig
René

I went through this dilemma with RBW as well - though I actually went
through THREE different frame sizes on one bike. That's a long
story . . . Anyway, as you mention, RBW does stand by their advice and
they will work with you to meet your needs.

As for sizing, I comfortably ride a 64cm frame size on my other RBW
bikes. My 94cm PBH and Riv sizing would put me on 66cm bikes at the
minimum, but I have a short torso, so I prefer the reach on the
smaller bikes. According to the chart from the Bombadil page, I can
ride either a 64 or 60 Bombadil:

60cm (for 700c wheels) For PBH of about 87 to 95cm; Saddle height 77
to 86..
64cm (for 700c wheels) For PBH of about 93 to 102cm; Saddle height 85
to 92.

I've tried both sizes and I can indeed comfortably ride either. I
bought a 60cm Bombadil. I'm OK riding a taller bike, though not as
tall as RBW sizing might allow. The 60cm bike is still definitely tall
(less standover) compared to current MTB standards, but it is more
comfortable than any other MTB I've ever ridden. I've taken a two-
month tour on the Bombadil and I ride it locally on single track. I've
been very satisfied with the size I chose for my style of riding.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Chainring Clearance

2009-12-16 Thread Dave Craig

Interesting.

I've got a recent (silver) QB and have a full 1 cm of clearance
between the smallest (32t) chainring and the stay with the stock, 32t
inside ring, BB and cranks. I wonder if RBW changed something to allow
more clearance?

BTW, I'm running a White Industries dual freewheel in the back. With
the chain on the outside chainring and the outside freewheel cog, I've
got what seems to be perfect chainline - ditto with the inside combo.

Eric, I can definitely relate to the anxiety caused by realizing how
close the clearance is. I changed out the worn-out middle chainring on
my Bombadil for another that, apparently, had slightly taller teeth
(same ring size, though - 34t). As I tightened the crank down I
thought, wow! that's close. It was. The middle ring rubbed the
chainstay! I switched out the BB for something a couple of mm longer
and everything runs great.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Grip Kings and Numb Feet

2009-12-15 Thread Dave Craig
Steve:

I easily get numb feet when the pedal pressure hits too far forward on
the ball of my foot and my foot is restrained by some sort of
retainer. This happens with Power Grips, clipless pedals or toe clips
and straps. I've toured for almost 2,000 miles with Power Grips on MKS
touring pedals, and, with the straps snug, but not tight, I've been
very comfortable. I also commute in regular street shoes on bear
trap pedals without retainers with no issues. And, I've dialed in my
clipless pedals with the cleat as far back as it will go - I'm usually
numbness free with that set-up as well, during countless miles touring
and training.

If you've found a pedal system that allows you to pedal without
numbness, why change the system? Instead, you might try reducing the
spring tension on your clipless pedals so they release more easily. I
know a couple of riders who have had similar concerns to yours
(falling over while clipped). Interestingly, they also had never
actually had it happen to them! I reduced the spring tension on their
pedals, as I've suggested to you. But, in the end, both solved their
concern in different ways. One decided that he wasn't willing to give
up the perceived efficiency of clipless and he has improved his riding
skills to the point where he no longer fears falling over. The other
rider (my wife) begrudgingly switched to power grips and touring
pedals and has discovered that she loves them! She found, as have I,
that the Power Grip set-up combines pedaling efficiency with an easy
release, the ability to wear normal shoes, and the ability to change
up foot position over a long ride. I'll note here that both of the
riders are middle-aged, fit, high mileage riders. One was able to get
over his fear of falling and the other wasn't.

I hope that helps.

Dave

On Dec 15, 7:26 am, Steve Wimberg st...@stevewimberg.com wrote:
 I would like to get some feedback from the group regarding Grip King  
 pedals and their ability to eliminate numb feet on long rides.

 I started using clipless pedals about a year ago after my rides  
 started increasing in length, and numbness in my feet became a  
 problem.  I had been using MKS touring pedals, and really can't use  
 those on rides over 30 miles or so.  The switch was extremely  
 successful in keeping my feet from going numb, and I like riding with  
 the clipless, in general.  However, I have found that I get a little  
 uncomfortable being clipped in when going up steep hills.  It's always  
 in the back of my mind that if I need to bail out because I can't  
 pedal anymore, it's gonna be difficult because I'm clipped in.  
 Granted, this hasn't happened yet, but why have the anxiety if I don't  
 have to?

 This is where the Grip Kings come in.  I am hopeful that the increased  
 surface area of the pedal will spread the weight out over the bottom  
 of my foot enough to keep the numbness at bay.  Does anyone have any  
 thoughts on this?  Has anyone had numb feet problems and had them  
 relieved by using the Grip Kings?

 Like I said, I like the clipless pedals, but am willing to give up  
 some of the things I like about them in order to gain a little piece  
 of mind.

 Thanks,
 Steve

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[RBW] Re: Road Test: New Tektro CR720s on the Quickbeam;Swobo tights

2009-12-15 Thread Dave Craig
I'll weigh in with the opposite opinion on Rainlegs . . .

I bought them because I hate wearing rain pants, but I also dislike
walking into a restaurant on a rainy day  bicycle tour and leaving a
puddle on the floor. So, I tried the Rainlegs on the Oregon coast and
found that within two days, the waterproofing at the crotch had
delaminated where it rubbed the saddle. I'm sure that bicycle tourists
always look a little weird to the locals, but a bicycle tourist who
looks like he's pee'd his pants probably makes folks downright
uncomfortable.

I'm back to high quality rain pants. The durability of the Rainlegs
didn't impress me.

Dave

On Dec 15, 8:10 am, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote:
 I just l-o-v-e my Rainlegs!
 No more sweaty legs, no more wet legs from the rain. A classic win-
 win.
 And this, from a guy who commutes by bike year-round in Portland, OR.

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