[RBW] Re: My Custom Rivendell

[RonaTD]

I don’t know which to admire more ... the bike or the workshop !

Laing - your taste and mine in bikes appear to be very closely aligned. 
Please let us know how well the Compass centerpull brakes clear the 48mm 
tires (I’m concerned about getting the tire through them when installing 
the wheel.)

[image: IMG_0558.jpg]

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[RBW] Re: Act of Thoughtfulness

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 2:07:18 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Trail fall of trees is always an issue over the miles of back trails. 
> Years ago, I "upgraded" to a Japanese hand saw (cuts on the back cut, not 
> the push cut, allowing for a harder steel that stays sharp a lng time). 
> Silky.
>
>
+1 on Silky pruning saws. I recently bought 3 (1 small folding, 1 medium, 1 
on a telescoping pole ... I have a lot of pruning to do in my yard and I'm 
retired now, so...). They are shockingly effective. Anything less than ~6" 
no longer has me hauling out the chainsaw.

General comment on tools ... invest in good ones or you'll be buying lots 
of bad ones. Silky saws have been absolutely worth the $.

RBW content - I love the idea of throwing the folding one in my Carradice 
for random, spontaneous trail maintenance. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

[RonaTD]

This is a great thread and should serve as a helpful source for people 
considering various Rivendell models. It makes it more helpful, IMO, when 
people chiming in described how they use their bikes. For example, people 
who put their bikes on bus racks, or regularly have to carry them up stairs 
... those are very practical non-riding issues! 

My take on Grant's design evolution is that it's highly influenced by the 
kind of riding he does and where he does it. So, it's not surprising to me 
that Deacon Patrick, who appears to ride similarly over similar (though a 
bit more epic!) terrain as GP. I'll give another example ... I took my 
Quickbeam as a "travel bike" to the San Diego area, where I participated in 
a group ride that, today, would be called a "gravel ride". It was organized 
by an outfitter, who provided cushy full-suspension mountain bikes to 
everyone and tried to dissuade me from using the QB. The terrain reminded 
me a lot of riding trails around Walnut Creek, and the QB put on quite a 
show both ascending and descending some fun singletrack. The bike was very 
much in its element and a joy to ride. 

The lengthening of chain stays offered to me a potential advantage for 
winter commuting, which pretty often involves re-frozen slushy tracks that 
are quite bumpy. All else equal, the longer wheelbase (and longer 
rear-center contribution to that) helps keep the bike moving in the 
intended direction despite the side-deflections from the bumps. I bought a 
Cheviot with the intention of making it my commuting bike, but it never 
worked well for me _for that purpose_. Half of my commute was suburban 
streets, where I wanted to ride 16-20 mph. The other half was a paved 
rail-trail, where 15mph max was a responsible speed. Riding the Cheviot the 
same speed as my other "road" bikes simply wasn't possible, no matter how I 
set up the bars. Milwaukee gets a lot of wind, btw, and winter wind is 
HEAVY!  If I was willing to increase my commute time 50-100%, and if I was 
willing to change from front-loading to rear-loading, it might have worked. 
But it was hard work to ride it, and I ended up re-purposing a lightweight 
randonneur bike as my commuter and loved it.

I have almost no trail-riding opportunities out my door, and I'm not 
usually willing to drive 1-2 hours to find them (another key issue: do you 
like to carry your bike in your car, rather than on it?). I have hundreds 
of kilometers of fabulous paved country roads with good shoulders right out 
my door. So, no surprise, the bikes that work for me are pretty classic 
road bikes. The original prototype Heron Road, with it's "adjustable chain 
stay length" (horizontal drops!)  is still my favorite. The only riding I 
use the Cheviot for is errands, so it permanently carries a pair of 
Carradice rear panniers and a saddle bag. It could use a basket on the 
front for the occasional light, bulky objects.

Also, another good data point is your height/bike size. It's not surprising 
that taller people like longer chain stays, which Grant addressed in his 
recent Reddit exercise. I'm 5'6", 71cm saddle height, so on the shorter 
side for men, and very light weight. 

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[RBW] Re: Tulsa Bikers - Experiences

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, October 17, 2019 at 10:54:47 AM UTC-5, Colin Cummings wrote:
>
> Anybody on the list live in/near Tulsa or have riding experience there? 
> Looking to get a sense of the local atmosphere for commuters, ease of 
> commuting and riding in the city, and the bike culture generally. Knowing 
> that Riv owners live there is a plus!
>

Well, it's been 33 years since I lived in Tulsa, so my view may need some 
updating. I lived south of downtown about 6 miles, not far off the river. 
My experience was that people weren't used to bikes in the road, making 
commuting a bit harrowing at times. The path along the river was great, 
making it possible to limit the amount of time I was on streets for my 
commute. People there tended to be very friendly, though, so I don't 
remember ever having any negative encounters - just some times where 
traffic was moving pretty fast and close.

I don't expect the geology and surround area roads to have changed much. 
The better riding is to the east of the city, toward (and into) Arkansas. 
If you like gravel, you'll have more options.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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Re: [RBW] Re: Original Rivendell Mountain Bike

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, April 4, 2019 at 2:07:42 AM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> How wide a tire would these mtbs fit, is 2.35 possible, Thanks Steve
>
>
I have managed to stuff 2.25 Schwalbe Winter Marthons under fenders on mine 
... just barely! Currently it has Rat Trap Pass tires and no fenders, which 
clear pretty easily, but fenders are again a tight squeeze.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Original Rivendell Mountain Bike

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, April 4, 2019 at 6:59:43 PM UTC-5, John McBurney wrote:
>
> How does this bike compare to the Bombadil?  Just eyeballing it, it seems 
> similar  
>

The Bombadil has more BB drop, shallower head tube angle, a bit more fork 
rake, somewhat longer chain stays, 584 and 622 rim diameters, and double 
top tube in all but the smallest size.

Other than that...

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: Original Rivendell Mountain Bike

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, April 4, 2019 at 9:52:58 AM UTC-5, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
> Not sure who sent me this one - 
>

That would be me :-)

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: Original Rivendell Mountain Bike

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, March 31, 2019 at 8:21:48 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
> So what's the difference, other than lugs? I ask because I have an old 
> Rivendell that looks like yours, and I always thought it was an AR.

That’s a beautiful bike!

My recollection is that the original three models, Road, A/R, and D/M, were 
modeled after the Bridgestone RB, XO, and MB models, respectively, in terms of 
geometry and tubing selection. My D/M is definitely “stout”, has very little BB 
drop, a lot of top tube rise, lots of tire clearance (though I wish it had a 
bit more for fender clearance), high trail front end. And, in stark contrast to 
the direction Grant has gone since those early days, it has what Riv might now 
consider comically short chain stays.

One detail difference is that my D/M has vertical rear dropouts, while most 
A/Rs I think used horizontals.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Original Rivendell Mountain Bike

[RonaTD]

The link provided shows an All Rounder, which is not the same as the mountain 
bike. The mountain bike was going to use a fork crown that would look like a 
lugged unicrown, but the fork blade bends that were required proved to be to 
difficult. 

I have a Riv MTB made by Waterford, using the All Rounder fork. The geometry is 
very similar to a Bridgestone MB-0/1. 

https://flickr.com/photos/7627416@N06/sets/72157628554831513

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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Re: [RBW] PSA 56cm Heron Touring

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, January 26, 2019 at 1:48:16 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Someone needs to buy that bike just to fix the fender line. Ouch!
>
>
Compass 700x35 (maybe even 38) tires will fix that! 

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[RBW] Re: PSA 56cm Heron Touring

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, January 26, 2019 at 1:42:36 PM UTC-6, Marty Gierke, 
Stewartstown PA wrote:
>
> Looks like a fine example with some nice upgrades. Love these bikes! 
> Listed at $1,499 or make an offer. 
>
>
> I suggest checking carefully on the size. Touring frames were odd sizes, 
road were even. This is a Todd Kuzma-era frame, and he might have changed 
that, but the web site didn't show any changes that I saw. By eyeball, I 
think it's a 55. 

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Putting My Foot Down

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 3:21:53 PM UTC-6, Marty Gierke, 
Stewartstown PA wrote:
>
> Literally. I want to be able to put my foot down from my "in the saddle" 
> position and not have to lean over at all, or maybe just a little
>

It's all about bottom bracket height and seat tube angle. If you're on a 
"mountain bike" or a "cyclocross bike", fugettaboutit unless you drop your 
seat way too low. If you really want to put a foot down flat, staying on 
the saddle, and not lean too far, you'll need a bottom bracket that is 
pretty low. It's one of my key criteria for a commuting bike, so that 
stoplights are easy to manage. Pedal strikes then become a potential 
hazard, but I think I've hit a pedal maybe three times in the last decade, 
all turning and going over a bit of a bump at the same time. On my 
preferred commuting bikes, I can easily put one foot flat or both feet on 
the toes.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA 

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[RBW] Re: Heron tubing - Ted Durant?

[RonaTD]

That is a "Post Ted & Grant" era, Tullio's (Todd K) era frame. Yes, the 
vertical drops are another clue, as is the color. Otherwise looks like the 
standard Road geometry and round blade RC24 fork crown.

Ted Durant

On Saturday, November 24, 2018 at 8:10:13 AM UTC-5, Marty Gierke, 
Stewartstown PA wrote:
>
> Ted - can you weigh in on this sticker? My first gen Heron did not have 
> it, and I'm wondering if this was from a later era. (Vertical dropouts are 
> another clue.) Currently on the 'bay.
>
> [image: s-l1600 (59).jpg]
>
>
> [image: s-l1600 (55).jpg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: One month VO Touring rear hub review.

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, October 13, 2018 at 1:53:11 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I don’t think it is too bad. 
> VO says put Phils oil on pawls to quiet them if you like. 
> I’m not going to bother. 
> Not too loud for me. 
>

I have a couple of VO freehubs and don't find the ratchet sound to be too 
loud. Pretty similar to the White Ind hub on my brevet bike. The Phil on my 
tandem is notably louder.The Shimano on my Cheviot is a lot quieter, but 
has been pumped full of oil to try to turn it back to a free hub from a 
fixed hub. Winter commuting miles on salt-covered streets took a toll!

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI (where postseason baseball is helping me forget all about the 
inevitability of commuting on salty streets again soon)
 

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[RBW] Re: MTB on the Blahg (again)

[RonaTD]

LOUIS WENTBOSS

On Wednesday, September 12, 2018 at 9:26:32 AM UTC-5, alford wrote:
>
>
> OL BISON LUGS WEST
>
> Interesting to see so many variations.
>
> John
>
>

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[RBW] The "One Bike" for a featherweight?

[RonaTD]

I weigh 120 and if I had to narrow my collection to one bike it would probably 
be my 57cm Bleriot. I’ve used it on and off road, for commuting, for camping, 
and for brevets up to 600km. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] Re: Wool at 100*+

[RonaTD]

Fullylugged wrote:
Recently got the new RUSA summer weight wool jersey (there is a heavier version 
too).  Excellent in hot and humid weather. 

+1 on the new RUSA light weight jersey. My first ride in it was a hot, humid 
200km day. The friend who came with me at one point commented on how she 
smelled. Needless to say, she was wearing Lycra. I was very pleased with the 
jersey, especially when we arrived in Port Washington and the temperature 
dropped 20 degrees, then went back up as we left. (Cooler By The Lake day.) 

I also am a big fan of light colored long sleeve seersucker shirts for sunny, 
lower humidity rides. 

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[RBW] Re: Randonneuring on Rivendells

[RonaTD]

> it's hard to imagine handling better than my cheviot with a front load (feels 
> great even with 30lbs). 
My Cheviot is a nightmare with weight up front. It had a crooked fork, and 
aligning that helped, but it still is very unstable with a front load. 

 > Have you found that fender-flaps have helped at all?  
Well,  I mounted my fenders pretty low, and a lot of the spray seems to come 
from the sides of the finders, but I should try flaps. 

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[RBW] Randonneuring on Rivendells

[RonaTD]

>How many people here are active randonneurs and ride their Rivendells?

My first brevets were on my Heron Road. Back then I carried everything in a 
Carradice saddle bag. For all the well-known reasons, I found that I preferred 
carrying things in a handlebar bag, and to this day I really like the Riv boxy 
bag and matching Nitto rack. The magnetic closure is a key feature. (But I 
prefer my Berthoud front bag for it's built-in map case.) I bought a 
Bleriot/Protovelo frame and had S couplers installed for a travel bike and to 
enjoy fatter 650B tires. I've done a fair amount of brevet and perm riding on 
that bike, and for a few years it was my commuting bike, as well. I also 
experimented with 650B on my Heron Road bikes, and that is where I discovered a 
handling issue, in which carrying weight in both a handlebar bag and a 
saddlebag at the same time created a noticeable shimmy issue. Eventually I 
decided to try a full-on, skinny tube, low trail rando bike, which I used for 
several years. I found I really liked the lower trail steering feel, especially 
when carrying a bunch of stuff in the handlebar bag. I particularly notice the 
handling difference on steep, curvy downhills (and of course steep, slow 
uphills). I had my Heron Road fork pulled to where the trail is now in the low 
50's, and really liked the change. 

I also found that each time I rode the Heron I thought, "this is my favorite 
bike." So, last year I had Waterford make me an ST-22 with a Heron fork raked 
out to get the trail into the low 40's. Using the Heron fork crown limits the 
fender width (it's 40mm between the tangs), so I decided to stick with 57mm 
reach brakes and 28mm tires with stainless steel fenders. The roads in 
Wisconsin are generally quite good and I haven't yet regretted going back to 
skinnier tires. Between the Compass EL casing and the flexy round fork blades, 
the bike really soaks up road imperfections nicely. The handling is right where 
I like it. The Schmidt dyno hub with the electrical connect built into the fork 
ends is a giant convenience, and having always available lights is important to 
me. 

Fenders vs tire volume depends on your riding conditions and your tolerance for 
bumps vs being wet. My experience with fenders hasn't been completely happy, as 
I find that I still get quite a bit of spray on my feet and in the drivetrain. 
And, one time on a commute a tire picked up a stick and the fender jammed it 
enough that it tore the tire. That said, I still prefer to ride with fenders if 
it's wet. But when I took my Bleriot/Travelo to Ireland recently I didn't 
bother packing fenders. (And lucked out - the weather was beautiful!) 

My 650b skinny tube bike is now my commuter, and I'm really happy with that. 
Dyno hub and lights are key, and fenders while not perfect are helpful. I carry 
a backpack in a Wald basket on the front and the very low trail geometry makes 
that work.

I've done 200km on my Rivendell Road, which has 26mm tires and nothing more 
than a small tool wrap under the saddle, and that was fast and fine, though it 
meant stuffing the jersey pockets and relying more on buying stuff along the 
way. There is a lot that changes when you get over 200km. Contact points - 
feet, seat, and hands - and fueling are the areas I've had the most adjustment. 
None of that is really "Rivendell specific".

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI
RUSA 7849

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[RBW] Ride Report - Hops, Stomp, and Roll on the Travelo

[RonaTD]

In which I get my first DNF in a while ... photos at 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/albums/72157689745793150/with/26508418747/

I posted a while back, asking for suggestions for a route from Yakima to 
Pendleton. A great resource turned out to be the Desert River Randonneurs, who 
have many routes on RideWithGPS. My goal was to ride the 135 miles (a bit over 
200km) from my daughter's apartment in Yakima to my brother's house in 
Pendleton.

This was also the first trip for my recently repainted Bleriot/Travelo. We took 
Southwest so the bike flew free :-).

The forecast had been looking great, but a couple of days beforehand the 
forecast began to include some troublesome predictions about wind. I'd be 
traveling generally south and east, and the forecast was for the wind to clock 
around from south to west. At 24 hours before departure, the forecast was for 
winds to get over 20mph with much stronger gusts. Looking at the route and the 
timing, I thought I might be able to miss the worst of it, and the final run 
into Pendleton would be mostly downwind.

Departure from Yakima around 7am was cloudy, cool and darker than I hoped, 
which made me regret leaving the lights at home. That didn't last long, though. 
Everything else about the bike felt fabulous. The Bleriot is a terrific 
all-around bike and, with the fork pulled for a bit more rake, handles a full 
Boxy Bag nicely. Given the plan to spend the night at my brother's, I had to 
bring some clothing and "overnight" stuff. MUSA long pants are ideal for this! 
Compass EL tires are a perfect match and sing over the generally rough 
Washington roads.

Something like 70% of the hops grown in the country come from Yakima, and it's 
easy to believe as you roll south out of the city. All the farms seem to be 
small scale, but they all sit next to each other, resulting in endless lines of 
pine poles strung together at the tops, ready to receive the year's growth of 
vines. It's hard to do justice to the sight with a quick cell phone grab shot, 
not wanting to take too much of a break so early in the ride.

Navigating out of the city area should have been straightforward, despite 
having made a last minute change to the route. We had discovered a couple of 
days earlier that my selected route was closed as a result of an entire 
hillside being in danger of collapsing. We had driven an alternative route that 
involved a small bit of climbing, but was quite scenic, so I just made that 
adjustment in RideWithGPS, downloaded the new file to my Garmin, and printed 
the new cue sheet. I skipped the all-important step of double-checking the cue 
sheet, though, and it turned out that RideWithGPS generated a few wrong turn 
directions.  Eventually I found my way, and the climb helped me warm up a bit. 
I have a couple of bikes that are noticeably lighter than the Bleriot, but I 
never miss them when I'm riding it. I'm light and have modest power output, but 
the Bleriot frame has always felt like it swings pretty well for me.

The descent brought me to the Yakima Valley Highway, with runs parallel to 
I-82, southeast along the Yakima River. This is very productive farmland, and 
you roll along a nice, flat road past all manner of orchards, vineyards, and 
farms. Annoyingly, the wind isn't south-southwest, it's coming in more 
southeast, pretty much on the nose. In the town of Zillah, home of the Teapot 
Dome Gas Station National Historic Site (I didn't stop to investigate...), my 
cue sheet says right when I should turn left, so I get in a couple of bonus 
miles. Naturally it's a mile of downhill before I realize I'm off track, so a 
mile back uphill ... Emerald Rd out of Granger is beautiful and lined with 
vineyards. I was hoping the skies would have cleared by now, but the moody 
skies match the late winter/early spring browns of the landscape. Eventually 
the skies clear a bit and I get occasional glimpses of mountains when I look 
back to the west. 

When the road comes back to I-82 and the Yakima Valley Highway, there is a bike 
path running down to Grandview. This is about the 1/3 point, so I snap a shot 
of the town welcome sign and send an update IM to my family. I pick up the path 
on the south end of Grandview and take it the rest of the way to Prosser, where 
I will cross the Yakima River and climb up to Horse Heaven. The skies finally 
cleared at this point, so I enjoyed a bit of a rest, snapping a few photos and 
filling a fresh bottle of liquid fuel.

The climb out of Prosser is on a popular road for trucks, but it's a steady 
6-7% grade with a reasonable shoulder and it seemed like no time before I was 
at the top, even taking a quick break on the way up for a photo op. Another 
photo op at the top, and I climbed over the crest and found the promised wind.

Horse Heaven is a high, arid area that stretches out forever, with nothing (and 
I mean NOTHING) to block the wind. It's around 20mph at this point, 
south-southwest, and I need 

[RBW] Re: Yakima-Pendleton

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 8:29:10 PM UTC-5, David Podboy wrote:
> I used to ride with this group when I lived out there: 
> http://drrando.blogspot.com.


Great resource - thanks!!

td

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot repaint

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 5:33:48 PM UTC-5, Jacob wrote:
> Cool choice for the fork!  Makes you notice the lugs. Never would have 
> thought of that. Is the scheme inspired by another bike?

Thanks all for the kind words. Last year I had Waterford build for me an 
“improved Heron Road” for brevet riding. It’s their ST22 with a Heron fork with 
extra rake. For that bike, I went with the traditional scheme of the main color 
on the frame and fork, with a white head tube and the windows of the fork crown 
also white. It’s quite beautiful, photo here:
https://flic.kr/p/VqvVSK

As I thought about the scheme for the Bleriot, it occurred to me that the lug 
and fork crown windows both gave you a peek at the tubes behind them, so it 
might be interesting to have the tubes be painted one color, and the lugs 
another. And if the head tube was going be the cream, that meant the fork 
blades would also be cream. I spent hours searching photos on the internet to 
see if I could find examples and found very few. Of course, there are examples 
where that is applied to the entire bike (tubes all one color, lugs all another 
color), but that wasn’t what I was after.  I was very nervous about how it was 
going to look and was happily stunned when I picked it up at Waterford today. I 
couldn’t read how Roger (their painter) felt about it, though.

The color is officially Copper Metallic, and in daylight it certainly looks it. 
With a bit less light it looks every bit like root beer with a creamy head. 

I am also very happy with how the decals look on it and grateful to RBW for 
providing them and a head badge. In its previous incarnation, this was my work 
horse bike, nothing flashy. I might have gone overboard the other way, and now 
I have to think about bits of bling to match the new paint. I already have some 
brass cable housing ferrules waiting.


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[RBW] Re: FS: RIvendell Bleriot 55cm

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, February 18, 2018 at 9:40:05 PM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
> How did you like the clearcoat?

The clear coat held up quite well over 10 years, including several years where 
I was commuting regularly on it, including winter (lots of salt used to control 
icing here). The areas that had been painted as part of the coupler 
installation on the down tube had started to bubble a bit, but that’s where a 
lot of salty grime accumulates in winter riding. One of the things I liked 
about clear coat for a travel bike was that the inevitable scratches were well 
hidden. Hopefully the new paint job will hold up well. It won’t be doing winter 
commute duty, so that should help.

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[RBW] Re: FS: RIvendell Bleriot 55cm

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, February 18, 2018 at 8:49:48 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> A root-beer Bleriot?  
>
> APPROVE
>
> BL in EC
>

It's Waterford's Copper Metallic ... but it sure looks like root beer !

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA 

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 4:27:06 PM UTC-6, John G. wrote:

> 1. The tracking feels wobbly, as if the bike has to work reaally hard 
> to hold a straight line. It's much more noticeable when I ride one-handed. 
> 2. This one is harder to explain, but a bit scarier: on long, gently 
> curving descents, the front end has a tendency to dip suddenly when I go 
> into the curve. There's then a feeling that the bike rights tries to right 
> itself, and it wobbles a bit more.
>

That sounds very much like my Cheviot, which turned out to have a fork that 
was off in a couple of directions. My suggestion for "eyeballing" it (my 
fork was off enough that it was visible) is:
1. Sight with one eye down the front of the head tube and, perpendicular to 
that axis, line up the front "shoulders" of the fork crown with the fronts 
of the fork ends. They should line up nicely. If one is well forward of the 
other it will be clear.
2. Pull the handlebar stem out of the steerer and sight down the inside of 
the steerer. (If you have a fender installed, that needs to come out, too.) 
The center of the tire should be right down the center of the steerer. If 
the forks are pushed to one side, it will be clear. To be more accurate, 
you can remove the tire and tube from the wheel.

Of course, you should also check the dish of the front wheel and, as noted, 
make sure the headset is installed correctly.

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 2:16:13 PM UTC-6, Dave Small wrote:
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, 
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?
> 

Sounds VERY similar to my own experience. I’ve been thinking about writing a 
post on this, following the earlier thread on upright riding. I first tried 
Albatross bars on a Quickbeam and didn’t like the way it handled (squirrely 
front end). We also have a CoMotion Periscopa tandem that has Albatross bars 
because it’s our “kids and guests” tandem so gets used by people of widely 
varying sizes, and it works well for that.

I have gone through a number of iterations with my Cheviot, today being 
iteration number 6 or so. I just took drop bars (on a short Dirt Drop stem) off 
of it and replaced them with VO Belleville. Haven’t gone anywhere on it, yet, 
but initial feel is “wow are these narrow!” I’ve now tried Albatross, Choco, 
Mustache, and drop (Nitto 176) with a variety of stem lengths and heights, 
ranging from a bolt upright (think Dutch) position to something close to my 
normal road bike position. 

I bought the Cheviot intending it to be my daily commuting bike. It’s an 8.5 
mile mostly flat, half on a bike path route with a small amount of “urban” 
riding at one end. Here on the shores of Lake Michigan, though, there is always 
the wind. And, like Dave, I find the Cheviot to be very hard to ride. 
Objectively, measured over many rides, the bike adds around 5 minutes to what 
is normally around 35 minutes, much more if using upright bars and there’s a 
headwind. Coming home last week, riding with a guy I occasionally meet on the 
commute, he dropped me like a rock on the little hill near home. Normally I can 
keep up with him with a bit of effort. Yeah, snow tires don’t help, but it 
wasn’t just that. The Cheviot simply doesn’t reward you for pushing harder on 
the pedals.  On the contrary, it makes my knees hurt when I try to ride it like 
my other bikes. It’s plenty comfortable as long as you don’t try to accelerate. 
Slow, steady, build up momentum over time, and it’s fine. My commute is just 
long enough that most days I want a more sprightly ride. The riding position 
with drop bars and a short stem is nice and familiar, and I’m sure I could ride 
a long distance comfortably with it but I’d be working harder than on my other 
bikes. All that said, the Cheviot is great for running errands, and a more 
upright position for that is just fine. I’m trying the Belleville bars because 
I find Alba and Choco to be too wide. The Belleville might be a bit to much the 
other direction - we’ll see! 

As for commuting, I’m in the fortunate position of having a Terraferma Corsa 
650B that I replaced with a Waterford ST for brevet riding. The Terraferma is 
brilliant for commuting - handles my backpack on the front rack perfectly, low 
BB, cushy tires, very responsive frame for sprinting to make a light. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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Re: [RBW] Bar wrap direction

[RonaTD]

René asked:
> Just out of curiosity, when wrapping the tape this way, how do you hold both 
> ends under the brake lever so they don’t unwrap? 
> And how do you ensure there are no gaps between both tapes on the opposite 
> side of the lever?

Good questions. I should have noted that I’m talking about standard drop bars 
and brake levers with hoods. The tape ends at the brake lever and runs up the 
side of the body. I orient the wrap direction so that the two halves end on 
each side of the lever body. If I want to ensure no gaps, I use a short piece 
of tape run at a bit of an angle from one side of the lever body to the other. 
The brake hood covers all the ends and holds them in place. I have also removed 
the brake lever body, leaving the clamp band in place, taped the bar, then 
installed the brake lever on top of the tape. It only works with thin tape, and 
some levers make that easier than others.  If you don’t have hoods on the brake 
levers, you could try that.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Bar wrap direction

[RonaTD]

Both! I wrap from the end to the brake lever and from the stem to the brake 
lever. No twine or tucking necessary. Works especially well if doing a weave.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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[RBW] Heron ephemera

[RonaTD]

To clarify, that flyer is post-Rivendell era, after I sold it to Todd Kuzma.

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, December 5, 2017 at 12:02:53 PM UTC-6, Fred Craven wrote:
>
> \I'm in the Dallas area, so we really haven't had much cold yet, but I 
> would like to be able to ride comfortably in the 40s. I know that many of 
> you do that. I'm open for suggestions. 
>

Well, here in Wisconsin, that doesn't really count as cold :-)  In the 
40's, I ride to work (8-9 miles each way) in knickers (MUSA or Compass) 
over wool boxer briefs,  a light wool long-sleeve base layer up top, and a 
wind shell or a heavy wool or flannel shirt depending on the wind and 
precipitation. In the upper 40's I may or may not use my light weight wool 
helmet liner, but by the low 40's that's desired. Also in the high 40's I 
might still use light weigh wool gloves, but by the low 40's a heavier 
weight glove with wind blocking is better. I don't cover my face (light 
weight wool balaclava) until it gets to the mid 20's. I add light wool long 
underwear pants under the knickers when it gets to the 30's. When it gets 
below freezing I will wear heavier tights under the knickers, or go with 
light tights and full nylon pants (like MUSA or a nice old pair of Supplex 
pants from Performance about 30 years ago), depending on wind and 
precipitation. Footwear - suede bmx style sneakers with quarter height wool 
socks until it gets down to the low 40's or wet, then crew socks and low 
hiking shoes with eVent lining.

Everyone's milage varies a lot in this area. It definitely requires 
experimentation. Get a few key layering items and try combinations. You 
definitely don't need bike specific stuff. Flannel or wool shirts are 
fabulous for cool biking and go well with knickers or MUSA pants. Smartwool 
base layers are versatile and mine have been holding up very well over 
time. Ibex is having a closeout sale (sadly, but great opportunity to buy 
some things that will last a long time). I find most cycling specific outer 
wear ("rain gear") is way too warm until it gets to the 30's. Pit zips and 
a 2-way front zipper and rear ventilation help with that. I think my 
toughest find is a light weight, water repellent (not completely 
waterproof) outer shell for wind blocking and minor rain protection without 
over heating. The closest I have to that is an old Supplex wind shell from 
Performance, but it's a half zip front with no pit zips, and an odd 
"periwinkle" color that isn't ideal.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:37:36 PM UTC-6, Justin, Oakland wrote:
> I had a wheelset from VO with rims from that CR18 oversized batch. Fucking 
> horrendous. I blame the rim in that case. 
> 
> -J

Ironically, my VO wheels with their own rims are a perfect match to Rat Trap 
Pass tires!  (One more data point.)

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:32:24 AM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
> rims.
>
>  Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to 
> the rim they're very difficult to get off and damned near impossible to get 
> back on. 
>

Another few data points ... Rat Trap Pass tires on Sun CR18 26" rims are 
excessively tight, Stampede Pass on Mavic MA2 700c rims are extremely 
tight, and Grand Bois Cerf blue 700c tires on Fir rims (not sure model) are 
absurdly tight. On the other hand,  Rat Trap Pass on the Velocity deep V 
rims on my CoMotion tandem are a bit loose, and Chinook Pass and Stampede 
Pass on DT TK540 rims are just right.

My experience has been that it's primarily the rims that appear to have the 
variance. My Sun 26" rims are tight with most tires I've tried on them, 
ditto for the MA2 and Fir rims.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] Re: barsack & lights?

[RonaTD]

Bill’s thought on mounting the light to the F15 rack directly is a good one. I 
have done that using a right angle bracket and the Paul’s mount, and it works 
very well. The bracket mounts at the front, held by the bolt that holds the 
washer that keeps the bag from slide off.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] barsack & lights?

[RonaTD]

This is a GREAT question! I’ve been struggling with it for years. I love 
handlebar bags, but they make headlight mounting a challenge if you don’t have 
a nice rack-mount alternative.

One option is to raise the light high enough to get over the bag. There are 
various mounts made to add light/gps unit space to crowded handlebars. I have 
one made by Minoura that came in two lengths. The tall one gets the light high 
enough, but I find it distracting to be in front of my face like that. On the 
other hand, the light also hits the top of the bag, which can help if you have 
a map or cue sheet there at night.

As others have mentioned, I don’t think visibility suffers when mounting mid 
fork or even at the fork end. Paul components makes a nice mount that can be 
bolted to an eyelet with a typical M5 bolt. It can also be attached anywhere on 
the fork blade with a p-clamp. 

I’ve used all those methods and more. Over the weekend I transferred all the 
parts from one frame to another. The new frame has a mid-fork braze on for a 
rack, which is a great place for the light. On this bike I have a front rack 
with a basket on it, and my backpack goes on the basket, so the light HAS to go 
down low, low enough to fit under the basket. 

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[RBW] What if the answer is knobbies on the QB?

[RonaTD]

I was as able to fit the wide Nokian W106 studded tires on my Quickbeam with 
SKS fenders. It was a tight fit but worked ok. Slush build up was an issue. Had 
I kept the QB I would have switched to the 32s. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] Re: Winter tires - studded

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, November 7, 2017 at 9:02:29 AM UTC-6, David B wrote:
>
> The Nokian A10s are good for regularly plowed roads. They measure around 
> 35mm, so they'll look tiny on a Clem but would work fine for commuting on 
> plowed roads. I used them for a couple winters in Chicago on a 650b road 
> bike conversion.
> They're not ideal for more snowy roads. For that I'd go with a 2.1" 
> option. 
>

That doesn't match my experience. I have A10 650B tires and Schwalbe Winter 
Marathon 26x2.1". In the typical plowed-but-slushy-with-tire-tracks 
conditions that we have here, the 2.1" tires on my Riv ATB float too 
easily, causing abrupt loss of control in an exciting/terrifying way. The 
A10s on my Cheviot and on my Protovelo(Bleriot) are far more stable. On the 
Cheviot the long wheelbase really helps, too. The reality is that deep 
(say, more than 4"), fresh snow is challenging for any bicycle.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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Re: [RBW] Cheviot dreaming

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, November 7, 2017 at 3:24:34 PM UTC-6, spru...@gmail.com wrote:
 As long as you're getting the custom paint, did you consider have canti 
posts added? That's the one thing I wish my Cheviot had but doesn't. The 
frame has generous clearance, but tire size is limited by the brake 
calipers. 

On my 55 Cheviot, I don't think cantilever brakes would add much tire 
clearance. I'm able to fit Compass 38mm tires under VO fenders, just 
barely. The front brake is problematic, but in the end I don't think 
removing it would create more than a couple extra mm. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI, where the snow tires might be getting mounted soon.

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[RBW] Re: 9 vs 10 speed bar end shifters

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, September 26, 2017 at 11:20:50 AM UTC-5, Gabriel Hargrove wrote:
>
> I'm setting up a 2x10 drive train and was hoping to benefit from any 
> experience out there using either Shimano 9 speed bar end shifters in 
> friction mode or move into the Shimano 10 speed bar end shifters (STI 
> only). Given the narrowness of the 10 speed chains, is it that finicky 
> trying to find the right gear in a friction set up?
>

As someone else noted, be sure that the 9sp can actually pull enough cable 
to shift across all 10 cogs.

Some other, maybe relevant data points. I tried using Silver shifters on a 
SRAM 10-speed (road) setup, and I found that the clicks of the shifters got 
in the way of being able to make precise lever movements. I might have been 
able to get used to having to overshift then push the lever back, but it 
was really tough to get the lever in just the right position to minimize 
the clacking out back. I happily switched to SRAM 10 speed bar ends for 
that. But this year I switched over to Shimano 10 speed because the Shimano 
bar ends don't have as stiff a "click" as the SRAM, so feel nicer to me. 
The Shimano 10 speed clicks are still noticeably harder than the 9-speed 
and earlier ones.

On the other hand, Simplex retrofriction bar end levers with a Shimano 8 
speed setup is like butter. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA 

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[RBW] Re: Largest tires on Cheviots

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 5:41:22 PM UTC-5, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Are you running side pull or center pull brakes?
>
>
> Sorry, I should have added that detail. Tektro long-reach dual-pivot (side 
pull) brakes.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: OT, sorry, but somewhat urgent question about car trouble

[RonaTD]

First question should be - does it have a distributor cap or electronic 
ignition? If it has a distributor cap then moisture in there is a good 
possibility, and new distributor, points, and wires would be an easy, 
relatively low cost thing to try. If it's electronic, then the suggestion 
for checking the crank angle (or other) sensor is a good one. If it's 
electronic, someone should be able to read the engine codes to identify 
sensor failure.



On Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 8:58:37 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> \When I tried to start it to put it into the garage, it cranked readily 
> but wouldn't catch; usually it fires right up -- it was like trying to 
> start my '68 Wildcat in very cold weather after sitting overnight.
>
> After much cranking, it caught, but ran very roughly; goosing the gas made 
> a "popping" sound, but easing off let it run more or less normally. Goose 
> again; again, hesitation, pop.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Largest tires on Cheviots

[RonaTD]

On my 55 Chev 38's are the max with fenders, but mostly limited by the 
front brake interference noted in another, recent thread. 45 without 
fenders would probably work.

On Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 11:07:14 AM UTC-5, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Morning all,
>   I have a 55cm Cheviot that takes 650B wheels
> What are some of the larger tires that fit well?
> I haven't purchased brakes yet but am leaning towards side pulls. 
> Will something as large as the Compass switchback hills tires fit?
> I read the Riv brochure and it says 45mm tires without fenders. 
> I'm just trying to get some idea of how much clearance that may leave. 
>
> Thank you,
> Ray
> Vallejo CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Brands (Besides SKS) That Work On A Sam

[RonaTD]

The rear brake bolt is tangential to the tire diameter, so the brake-tire 
distance increases as the brake gets farther away from the brake bridge. The 
front brake bolt, because of the fork offset, is not tangential, and the 
brake-tire distance gets smaller as the brake gets farther forward of the fork 
crown. Fork crowns are thicker than brake bridges, so there is less brake-tire 
clearance in front than in back. The difference is non-trivial. A constucteur 
tasked with building a fork for a bike that will have dual-pivot brakes would 
do well to angle the bottom of the steerer and fork crown and drill the brake 
bolt hole such that it is tangential to the tire circumference. 

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[RBW] Fender Brands (Besides SKS) That Work On A Sam

[RonaTD]

Yeah, metal fenders with dual pivot brakes have that problem. I think Bicycle 
Quarterly had an article with Peter Weigle showing his installation process. An 
important part of it that isn't easy for amateurs is the forming of the area 
that goes under the fork crown. Peter has wood mandrels he has made for the 
purpose. Like I said, not easy for amateurs! Forming a flat area that extends 
forward to the brake arches is something I would like to do on a couple of my 
bikes. 

A workaround is that you can back out the little brake centering adjustment 
screw on the Tektro calipers. That tilts the caliper in a way that adds a bit 
more clearance. I have successfully used that approach to fit fenders that 
otherwise weren't going to work. 

As for the daruma bolt - they are always too long and have to be cut. Getting 
the right length is really difficult. When you cut the bolt, put a nut on it 
below the cut, then you restore the threads by backing the nut off of it. Best 
to use a hacksaw rather than a bolt cutter. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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[RBW] Quickbeam over Mt Tam

[RonaTD]

The Quickbeam, having been developed on the roads and trails around Mt. Diablo, 
is ideally suited to that kind of ride. I took mine with me once to SoCal and 
did some road/gravel/single track in the hills and it was heavenly. Very 
confidence-inspiring handling rolling down a sketchy hillside trail. If I had 
road/trail combo options like that around here, I probably wouldn't have sold 
mine. 

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[RBW] Re: Even a riv (design) can wobble

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, May 28, 2017 at 2:56:19 PM UTC-5, Antone Könst wrote: 
>  My new (to me) Cheviot is very hard to control with no hands on a flat road 
> with no load.  ….   

And I replied:
> Mine, too. My explanation is that the very high wheel flop requires a large 
> amount of correction, and it's hard to apply that much correction and not 
> over-correct. 

Update: I pulled the fork off my Cheviot and found it was not straight. I 
adjusted the rake on one side and centered the wheel and, voila, far more 
stable handling. I suspected that might be the problem and should have 
mentioned it earlier. The first test when no-hands handling is a problem should 
always be fork and wheel alignment. In the case of the Cheviot, I also find 
that it likes a very upright riding position. I have not yet tried it with a 
front load with the aligned fork, but I expect it to prefer rear loading.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: Warm weather bike clothing, long sleeved

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 11:11:36 PM UTC-5, Michael Williams wrote:
>
> Hey group.  Other than light wool,  what do folks out there like to ride 
> in for sun protective, long sleeve,  warm/ hot weather materials?  


No question, long sleeve seersucker cotton in light colors.  As also noted, 
throw a light wool shirt underneath it and you can cover a very wide range 
of conditions.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Shimano Dura Ace Barend shifters

[RonaTD]

Shifters are sold ...and installed on my new Waterford ST22 with low trail 
Heron fork. Thanks Greg!

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[RBW] Re: Even a riv (design) can wobble

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, May 28, 2017 at 2:56:19 PM UTC-5, Antone Könst wrote:
>  My new (to me) Cheviot is very hard to control with no hands on a flat road 
> with no load.  ….  

Mine, too. My explanation is that the very high wheel flop requires a large 
amount of correction, and it's hard to apply that much correction and not 
over-correct. 

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Even a riv (design) can wobble

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 at 5:08:02 PM UTC-5, christian poppell wrote:
>
>
> Experienced shimmy for the first time ever going 17ish mph downhill with 
> my hands off the bars (64cm Orange Quickbeam). Had a small amount of stuff 
> in a saddle bag and a down sleeping bag strapped to my bars. 
>

That sounds similar to the circumstances under which I have had shimmy with 
Riv/Grant designed bikes - saddle bag plus handlebar bag. Just one or the 
other, no shimmy. Both - shimmy. I was able to pretty reliably replicate 
it. The amount of weight in each bag could vary a fair amount, but there 
had to be weight in both places.


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[RBW] Re: Why do my short pull levers work pretty darn ok with these Motolites?

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:40:44 AM UTC-6, Patch T wrote:
>
> I got my parts-bin levers confused and ended up putting old Shimano 770 
> short-pull mtn levers on a bike with new Motolites. And it worked pretty 
> darn ok. I'm not keeping the set-up, but my curiosity was ignited.
>
>
> Also, I just saw an exploded parts view of that lever and it appears the 
cable pull is adjustable. If that's the case, yours are probably set up for 
longer pull (cable farther away from pivot).

td 

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[RBW] Re: Why do my short pull levers work pretty darn ok with these Motolites?

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, February 1, 2017 at 10:40:44 AM UTC-6, Patch T wrote:
>
> I got my parts-bin levers confused and ended up putting old Shimano 770 
> short-pull mtn levers on a bike with new Motolites. And it worked pretty 
> darn ok. I'm not keeping the set-up, but my curiosity was ignited.
>
>
Check the pivot-cable distance. My guess is those aren't particularly short 
pull. True "short pull" road levers are around 20mm. Levers for V-brakes 
tend to be 30mm or more.

I have way too many hours invested over the last few weeks into brakes, 
mechanical advantage, and cantilever geometry. I've learned a lot of theory 
and built a pretty handy Excel spreadsheet to play with some of the 
variables. Brake lever geometry doesn't seem to be nearly as well 
documented as brake calipers, but of course you need to know both to 
determine how they'll play with each other on paper. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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[RBW] FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm SOLD

[RonaTD]

Sorry, should have updated last night. Thanks for the overwhelming response!

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[RBW] FS: Quickbeam Coleman Green 56cm

[RonaTD]

Photos at 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/albums/72157679426299285

56cm First Gen Coleman Green Quickbeam
Some normal beausage
Superbe Pro cranks with 38-42 chainrings
17-21t dual fixed cog, plus original 21t freewheel
Tektro CR720 brakes, RRL levers
Nitto Randonneur bars
front rack, fenders included
Saddle, pedals not included
Second set of wheels with Nokian W106 45mm snow tires
Asking $500 plus shipping

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[RBW] Re: Black and Cream Color Scheme

[RonaTD]

If anyone is interested in turning the original question into a practical 
exercise, I have a 62cm black w/ cream Rambouillet that I will probably sell. 
Separate post and photos to come. Please contact me off list if you're 
interested.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Mix 'n match gearing

[RonaTD]

I found on the 'net some interesting (in a nerdy, arithmetic sort of way) info 
on shifter cable pull, derailer actuation ratios, and cog spacing. Naturally, I 
loaded it all into a spreadsheet for fun. After looking at many different 
permutations, I came upon one that seemed fairly useful. If you have a nice 
SunTour rear derailer and you'd really like to use it with more modern, indexed 
shifting, it works perfectly with a Shimano 9-speed shifter and a Shimano/SRAM 
8-speed cassette. I just tried it out on my Riv ATB and, sure enough, the 
spacing is exactly right. Since I'm a big fan of Shimano 9-speed bar-end 
shifters, and my ATB has a nice XC Pro rear derailer, it's a very happy 
coincidence for me.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA - wicked cold 'n snowy here at the moment

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[RBW] Re: 29er/700c Studded Tire Options for Clem.

[RonaTD]

On Monday, December 12, 2016 at 10:44:05 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I'll shortly have my VO Campeur set up with ~40mm studded tires, but am 
> thinking of setting up large Clem with larger studded tires as well.
> Any recommendations?
> Considering removing fenders but anything around 50mm would mean I could 
> keep them on.
> David
> in snowy Chicago, not quite ready for a snowy/icy commute
>

My experience - I have had Nokian W106 700x45c tires on my Quickbeam for 
many winters. Yes, the 45's fit. Barely! I have been very happy with their 
performance in a variety of conditions, but they add a lot of resistance!

I also have used Nokian A10 650x40b tires, which are really more like 35mm, 
on my Bleriot/Protovelo. I wasn't as happy with them, but just ordered 
another pair because I'm now commuting on a Cheviot with 650b wheels and 
they're the only snow tires that will work on that bike. On the Bleriot I 
found the front end tended to float up on the slush and lose traction.

I have also used Schwalbe Marathon Winter 559-50 tires on my Riv ATB, and 
not been happy. I had a chance yesterday to confirm my unhappiness. I took 
advantage of the weekend snow dump to put the Schwalbe's back on the Riv 
ATB and go for a romp. It reminded me why I was happy to take them off the 
bike last spring. At any reasonable speed, the tires very easily floated up 
on slush and the front end of the bike would start moving sideways. 

I then took the Cheviot out for the same loop, on its Compass Babyshoe Pass 
(650x42b) tires, and it was way more stable. Go figure. I rode the Cheviot 
to work this morning and it was fine until I hit the Milwaukee section of 
the bike path and 8" of snow. (Shorewood cleared their section of the path, 
God bless them!) Back on city streets the Compass tires were fine. There is 
not a lot of fender clearance, though, so the accumulating slush made for a 
good resistance training ride. I'm counting on the A10's having a bit more 
clearance, so there will be less slush buildup. I also think narrower tires 
are better for riding slushy sorta plowed city streets. The guy on the fat 
bike in front of me on the path this morning was probably glad for his huge 
tires, but only where we were riding in a fair amount of snow that hadn't 
been driven on.

So, if I had bought a 700c Cheviot, I'd have happily put the Nokian W106 
tires on it, though I'd be tempted to try the narrower 35's.

Ted Durant
Just a bit north of David in Milwaukee

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[RBW] 25 years now

[RonaTD]

Please indulge me a little reminiscence. Riding home from work tonight on on my 
Cheviot, I passed by the bike shop where, almost 25 years ago to the day, I was 
handed The 1992 Bridgestone Bicycle Catalog. After about 30 seconds of looking 
at pages 36&37, I handed over my credit card and changed the course of my life. 
The XO-1 was exactly what I was looking for, as if Grant Petersen had said, 
"So, Ted, what can we build for you?" Twenty-five years and a reasonable number 
of bikes later, I am ever more grateful for Grant's contributions to beautiful, 
common-sense bicycle design and components. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: 753 Heron

[RonaTD]

You recall correctly. When Grant successfully persuaded Tektro to make 57mm 
(and 75mm!) brakes, and then Shimano joined the party, the game changed 
significantly. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: 753 Heron

[RonaTD]

Yeah, lack of room for bigger tires and fenders is the only thing I regret 
about the Herons. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: 753 Heron

[RonaTD]

If a frame from that era had a 753 decal either it was a mistake or someone put 
it on after it shipped. 

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot build in progress

[RonaTD]

More photos at the Flickr album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/albums/72157674363540271
 
> What about from the headlight to the downtube how do you get it to the 
> downtube?
In this photo
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/30555685791/in/album-72157674363540271/
you can see the light wires taped to the front rack strut. The headlight wire 
winds down the fork to the hub. The tail light wire runs up the back of the 
fork blade and is secured to the bottom of the head tube with a zip tie.

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot build in progress

[RonaTD]

> How did you run that wire to the tailight?

The wire runs under the down tube, under the bottom bracket and up the back 
side of the seat tube. Just above the lateral tube junction it runs over to the 
seat stay bridge. Black electrical tape and black zip ties are used to secure 
it. Long term, the more elegant solution will be a fender-mounted light, then 
running the wire from under the bottom bracket to the fender, then inside the 
fender to the light.

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot build in progress

[RonaTD]

Jeff posted:
>Here's a few pics of my hack(s):

I was going to get some tubing for making a custom spacer for the chainstay 
bridge, but the cork spacer is a fun and practical idea.

There are a couple of new photos in my Flickr album, from the commute this 
morning. 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/albums/72157674363540271

Based on today's ride, I raised the stem and flipped over the bars. I think I 
will end up putting Choco bars on it.  

Another detail that is a bit of a bummer - the pump peg placement requires a 
shorter pump than my HPX3. 

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Re: [RBW] Sam Hillborne vs Heron Touring ... GO

[RonaTD]

On Friday, October 21, 2016 at 12:56:14 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Jay: I think there were several iterations of the Heron; Rivendell had it 
> made for a while by Waterford, and then sold the rights to I-forget-who who 
> in turn sold them to Todd Kuzma.
>
> Heron Bicycles was originally a joint venture between Rona Components, 
Rivendell Bicycle Works, and Waterford Precision Cycles. Full history is 
well described here:
http://www.heronbicycles.com/faq.html
 

> http://www.heronbicycles.com/geometry.html
>
> http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/rivendell.pdf 
> 
>
> I *think* that the second (1999) review considers the original 
> Rivendell/Waterford model, and the first link (2007) records the Kuzma 
> models. If not, perhaps others will correct me.
>
> The Adventure Cycling review is of an original Heron Tour. The 
heronbicycles.com domain has current content. The original geometry, which 
likely applies to the 59cm Heron Touring listed here recently, differs in 
that the head angle was 72 (vs 72.5 currently) and the fork offset was 50mm 
(vs 42.5 currently). The review says the seat angle is 73, but the spec was 
72.

At any rate, I think that the Heron, even in Touring form, was more 
> road-bike-like in geometry (and limitations for dirt) than the Sam.
>

The Sam geometry, other than the slope of the top tube, is extremely close 
to the Heron Tour geometry. 
 

> Can anyone speak of the tubing?
>
The Heron frames from the Gen 1 era all used Reynolds 531 OS main tubes. My 
memory is they are .8/.5./8 but don't know for sure. They got stickers that 
say tubes and stays, but 531 hasn't be available in stays for a long time, 
so the stays are actually 525. The Tour has heavier stays than the Road. 
The most distinctive thing about the Heron will be that it has round fork 
blades. Let the debate begin about whether that's good or bad. I love the 
way mine rides and attribute some of the "magic" to the fork. If you are 
comparing it to a double TT Sam, then the Heron Touring will feel either 
more lively or softer than the Sam, depending on your POV. 

The Touring model used cantilever brakes and had plenty of room for tires, 
but might be a little less roomy than the Sam, especially in the fork crown.


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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 2:42:55 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote:
>
>  Has anyone with issues similar to mine switched over to a Berthoud saddle 
> and felt some improvement?
>

I had a bunch of B17's over the years, most of which developed pretty large 
twists, and all of which tended to cause sores. I have a Berthoud Touring 
on my brevet bike and I have been very happy with it. 

Several years ago Sean Virnig tipped me to the Dimension Afton Classic, 
which has a shape and size that is very close to the B17, and cost about 
$25. It's not as wide in the back, only 145mm, but the extra width at the 
back of the B17 (and Berthoud) is where the Afton starts to taper, in back 
of where you actually sit. I've ridden the Afton on a 600km with no 
trouble. I used the Afton instead of the Berthoud on the Ride Across 
Wisconsin (178 miles) this year because of the wet weather and it was 
great. Alas, the Afton Classic is no longer made, but the Soma Ensho is 
pretty much identical (but twice the price) and, like the Afton, actually 
made by Velo/Taiwan. For me the critical dimensions are the shape between 
the legs, the sit bone support area, and (very important) the rise of the 
back area (or, the dip in the middle, between the nose and the tail). The 
B17, Berthoud, Afton, and Ensho are all very similar in those dimensions. 
Interesting additional note - my wife loves the Afton - first time we've 
ever agreed on a saddle.


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Re: [RBW] A plug to buy something from Rivendell Bicycle Works: A Nitto F-15 rack

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 10:34:36 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> Does extra weight on the handlebars affect steering more than if it sits 
> lower on like a mark's rack?
>

I'm sure there are real engineers or physicists on the list who will say 
I'm out of my depth ... but my answer is that for a given position relative 
to the steering axis and the tire contact patch, it doesn't matter where 
the bag is attached.  Lower and closer to the steering axis should have 
less of an influence. The more securely stabilized the better, too. 

I haven't done a same-bike comparison of the Boxy Bag/F15 vs 
Berthoud/Decaleur. I set the Berthoud in pretty much the same location, 
though. Functionally, I think it's important to have the top of the bag at 
the handlebars to make it easy to see and reach in to find things. I give 
the F15 a bit of an edge in stability because of it holding 3 sides of the 
top of the bag. Decaleurs just hold one side, allowing a bit more sway. The 
bag sitting on the rack mostly offsets that, though, so there's not a lot 
of difference in stability.

Ted Durant

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[RBW] A plug to buy something from Rivendell Bicycle Works: A Nitto F-15 rack

[RonaTD]

Another very happy user here. I have two boxy bags and two racks. I also have a 
Berthoud medium bag on a decaleur on another bike. The Berthoud is only 
marginally bigger. The boxy bag is plenty big for a brevet unless I need a lot 
of spare clothing, in which case the Berthoud is too small, too. The magnetic 
closure on the boxy bag is much handier than the elastic cord closure on the 
Berthoud. On the other hand, the built in map case on the Berthoud is way 
better than the add-on case from RBW.  As noted, it is a real boon to be able 
to mount a handlebar bag on any of my bikes. Well, I haven't put it on my Riv 
Road with a Campy brifter setup.  I suspect the cables might interfere with 
mounting the rack there. 

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Wife asked me to go on a 2 week bike tour, help!!

[RonaTD]

On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 2:21:20 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> So here's my questions. I'm well aware of the fact that what I like to do 
> on a tour isn't what a lot of other people would like to do. I look for 
> single track and dirt roads, don't mind rough terrain and not showering for 
> a week. I like doing 100-200km in a day. I love the idea of spending five 
> hours climbing a mountain and then screaming down the other side as fast as 
> I can possibly go. 
>
>
Having spent two weeks in Vermont on a tandem for my honeymoon, I have some 
experience. I scheduled the day - to - day riding around what seemed 
reasonable for her. We alternated camping and B's or motels.

Given that you'll be on singles, you have an additional option. In the 
mornings, you ride to the next place and set up camp or check in to your 
lodging. Then, on some days, you go for an afternoon ride that features 
more off the track exploring, and she enjoys some local browsing. On other 
days, you do local browsing together. And, maybe, occasionally, she joins 
you for some off-the-track adventures.

Have fun!!

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI 

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[RBW] appaloosa pedal dust cover

[RonaTD]

That happened to me with an MKS pedal. When I told Grant, his response was, 
"Oh, so you understand the theory of beeswax but not the application of it!" 

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[RBW] CLEARCOAT o'er baremetal & why we don't do it anymore

[RonaTD]

My Protovelo is clear coated, except around the couplers where Bilenky managed 
to find a remarkably effective paint color. It has seen extensive commuting 
duty on salt encrusted streets in Wisconsin. It is starting to show some rust 
by one of the couplers and at the dropouts. Nothing worse than I would expect 
given how it has been used. My Quickbeam, which also has seen a lot of winter 
commuting, looks about the same. 

While I like the clear coat in concept, especially for a travel bike where I 
expect it to take some abuse, every time I see a painted Bleriot I think "that 
looks so much better." Given the rust that's starting by the coupler, a fresh 
paint job may happen soon. 

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Wikipedia illustration from "bicycle bell"

[RonaTD]

While you are looking up bicycle items on Wikipedia, look up bicycle handlebars 
and look for a photo of drop bars with a weave tape job. 

It's the UrHeron. 

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[RBW] Re: Fastest non-GB/Compass 650b tire?

[RonaTD]

PariMortos are subjectively the fastest tires I have ridden. But they should be 
very similar to Compass tires, being ultra light tires made by Panaracer. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

[RonaTD]

Somebody needs to buy this bike!  For those who are wondering about fit, 
here's what we published on the original Heron web site.

Sizing By Saddle Height
Saddle HeightHeron RoadHeron Touring
*66* 52 *won't fit*
*67* 52 53
*68* 52/54 53
*69* 54 53/55
*70* 54 54
*71* 54/56 55
*72* 56 55/57
*73* 56 57
*74* 56/58 57
*75* 58 57/59
*76* 58 59
*77* 58/60 59
*78* 60 59/61
*79* 60 61
*80* 60/62 61
*81* 62 61/63
*82* 62 63
*83* 62 63
*84* *won't fit* 63

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[RBW] Re: What is my Rivendell really? Crisis of identity?

[RonaTD]

On Friday, January 22, 2016 at 3:42:40 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>  Did they once make a stock Road in that size?  It also has a Joe Starck 
> serial coding on the bottom bracket.
>
>
All Rivendell-brand frames are essentially custom. In the beginning, there 
were the Road, the All-Rounder, and the All Terrain being built by 
Waterford. They were supposed to be standard, but everyone wanted something 
customized. Heron was born out of that, as a way to have a truly standard 
line and to allow Rivendells to be custom.

If it was built by Joe Starck, it is definitely "custom" geometry, but 
Grant never went far from what he felt was proper road frame geometry for 
road frames. A while back, Joe gave everyone the chance to get the 
specification documents for the frames he built. That would be the ultimate 
source of info about the geometry and tubing used. Typical of RBW, the 
documentation of my frame is somewhat ambiguous with regard to the tubing 
used.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: My new 53 NIB Bleriot

[RonaTD]

I don't really believe there's such thing as a perfect bike ... but that 
sure is close!  Makes me think I'll have to have my Travelo painted the 
original Bleriot colors some day.

Need drive train side photos!

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA 

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[RBW] Re: iBOB crosspost - thinking about 2nd fork to make Redwood lower trail.

[RonaTD]

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 2:45:30 PM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
 

> I'm considering as a winter project, rebuilding my Riv Redwood as a 
> low-trail 700c bike...My main question is this: What rake would be 
> appropriate for this 700c bike running Compass Barlow Pass (38mm) tires? 
> Headtube is 73 degrees. I'm leaning towards 65mm rake, which would give a 
> trail measurement of 40mm.
>  
>

I had the fork on my original prototype Heron Road pulled to 55 mm, which 
was as far as John Sotherland felt he could take it without risking 
collapse. It only has clearance for 28's. I also have a Terraferma 650B 
ultra low trail bike for comparison. I loved the Heron as designed and 
built, but I like it even better with the extra rake. It can take a light 
load in a handlebar bag and feels like just the right balance of stability 
and responsiveness. I don't feel any need to add more rake than that. By 
comparison, my Terraferma is a very difficult bike to ride no hands, and 
gets worse as weight is added to the front bag. For the sake of science, 
I'm having Waterford make a new fork for that bike, with a bit less rake. 
My hypothesis is that the current fork is not aligned properly, and that a 
fresh, properly aligned fork will make a lot of difference, while the 4mm 
less rake won't make much difference at all.

Keep in mind that a different fork may have a different axle-to-headtube 
dimension, which would change the head angle. Adding more rake changes the 
angle again. If you start with the same length fork and add some rake, you 
will steepen the head angle. A little trig work will tell you by how much. 
I will have to check my archives to see what I calculated the effect is on 
my Heron.

Can you really fit 38's in the Redwood? Sounds like a great bike for the 
vertically enhanced folk.

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[RBW] Re: (Not OT) carrying a camera on a bike

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, August 22, 2015 at 11:44:24 AM UTC-5, Jason Leach wrote:

 Hello all, 

 How do people safely carry a camera by bike? 


Handlebar bag with a hand towel wrapped around my OM-D, usually with the 
20mm lens on it.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?

[RonaTD]

Michael's advice is all good. In my case, both my wife and I have ridden 
horses, so we _always_ mount and dismount on the left side of the bike. 
Another helpful hint for the captain ... if you can sit in the top tube 
while straddling, and push back against the nose of the saddle, it helps 
stabilize the bike while the stoker mounts or dismounts. I always put both 
feet on the ground at full stops, and the stoker only takes feet off the 
pedals if I announce a dismount.

In the corners, the stoker should try to stay in line with the captain, 
trying not to lean in more than the captain or to resist the lean the 
captain initiates. This is one of those areas where the stoker really has 
to develop trust in the captain, and the captain has to earn that trust 
with smooth, safe riding and clear communication of the upcoming turn 
direction and severity. The stoker should give appropriate hand signals, 
and get both hands back on the bars prior to leaning into the corner.

Finally, my better half would say the very most important thing for the 
captain is to announce bumps. An experienced single rider unweights the 
saddle without even thinking about it, and the tandem captain has 50+ inch 
chain stays to absorb the bumps. The stoker, on the other hand, can't see 
the bumps coming and has to deal with the inertia of the entire rig hitting 
her in the coccyx. So, call the bumps in time for both of you to stop 
pedaling and unweight the saddles. It'll spare your wheels some misery, too.


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[RBW] Re: tandem captain advice?

[RonaTD]

On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 10:00:35 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

  if you can sit in the top tube while straddling, 


On, not in. 

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[RBW] loaded handling question

[RonaTD]

My experience with Herons, Quickbeam, and Bleriot is that adding any kind of 
saddlebag weight increases shimmy propensity. The most stable handling I have 
found, and it's remarkably stable, is all the weight up front, a little in the 
handlebar bag and most of it in a pair of panniers at the hub area. It's how I 
commute now. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] (OT) ADVICE FOR NEWLY WEDS WITH TANDEM BICYCLE and how to stay married

[RonaTD]

Wherever your marriage is going, you will get there faster on a tandem. 

29 years after our 2 week honeymoon in Vermont on our Santana, we are still 
riding.

Ted (and Beth) Durant

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[RBW] Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

[RonaTD]

It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post. Classic 
Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy. 

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[RBW] Re: Which Riv to Rando?

[RonaTD]

Lots of good advice, but allow me to add a couple of additional personal 
observations.

First one echoes the comment about trying to hang with some RAAM riders… I 
did the same thing on my first 200km brevet and DNF'd. Now, it was between 
35 and 40 degrees, and the wind was blowing about 30-40 mph, and it was an 
out 'n back directly out into the wind, and I have all sorts of excuses, 
but it was my first lesson in riding my own pace. Over the next few years, 
doing a variety of solo and group riding, I developed the hypothesis that I 
ride faster solo than I do in groups. I ended up doing a test, riding with 
a fast group over a 100km loop one weekend, then repeating the same ride 
solo the following weekend. Sure enough, I finished the solo ride faster 
and feeling fresher. Okay, it's one data point, but I have done enough 
brevets now to have firmly confirmed the hypothesis. Interestingly, using a 
heart rate monitor, I've documented that my heart rate increases in the 
mere presence of another rider. What, me, competitive? The point of all 
this is that I suggest being open minded about whether riding alone is 
undesirable. You may find that you expend way more energy trying to stay 
with a group than you do riding by yourself. This is especially true in the 
brevets I have ridden, where the level of pack riding skills is quite low, 
so the yo-yo factor is quite high.

Second, assuming your position on the bike is good, tires make more 
difference to comfort and speed than all the other things combined. 

Last, you're going to have to do a few 200+ km rides on each to decide. Now 
THAT's a first world problem!!

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Would you take the lane?

[RonaTD]

I've ridden many km's over the last few years with a 
randonneuring/commuting buddy, and I try hard to emulate his remarkable 
poise and grace in the face of absurd driver behavior. He just smiles and 
waves at everyone, regardless of whether they've been polite or impolite. 

Based on your description, I also would probably have taken the lane. I 
have a similar section on my regular commute, except it's an elementary 
school, not high school, and in the morning it's a similar scene. There is 
a median, too, so there really is no place to pass. Lucky for me, though, 
it's flat, so I can move at a reasonable speed, but even that isn't 
reasonable for some people. There are enough cyclists here that it's quite 
rare for someone to get aggressive at me. Still, I try to gauge whether I 
can take the lane, and sometimes I'll pull over at a stop sign and let an 
aggressive car go by. (Then sit on his bumper for a few blocks…and smile 
and wave!)

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Front end shimmy.

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, February 7, 2015 at 7:07:21 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:

 Hugh:

 I've had shimmies with my 58cm Atlantis.  Oddly enough, and contrary to 
 accepted wisdom, mine was induced by a moderate rear load.


+1. That has been my experience, too, on Heron Road bikes (700C as spec'd 
and 650B converted), Quickbeam, and Bleriot Protovelo. I recently mounted a 
Tubus Targa low rider rack on my Protovelo and did my usual commute with 
front panniers instead of my typical Lowsaddle Longflap / Boxy Bag 
handlebar combo (most the weight in the saddle bag). The handling was 
remarkably improved. The very shallow head angle of the Bleriot creates a 
large amount of wheel flop. Low mounted panniers had an amazing dampening 
effect.

It's hard for me to wrap my head around the notion that 10-20 extra pounds 
on the saddle could induce shimmy. If it was just that, then someone 10-20 
pounds heavier than I am should create the same effect. So, I hypothesize 
it has something to do with the saddlebag load not being firmly attached. 
Physicists feel free to pile on.

Ted Durant
 

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[RBW] My Heron build

[RonaTD]

I am really pleased to see that frame getting the love it deserves!

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Fuji Touring Series IV, Rivish Makeover, Phase 1

[RonaTD]

 Found this all-original 1983 Fuji Touring Series on eBay 

What a beautiful find!  Love the chromed fork crown. I worked in a Fuji 
shop in the late 70's/early 80's, and my first bikes were Fuji's. One of 
these days I'm going to restore my old Fuji America that's gathering dust 
in my father's garage.

Nothing is more annoying than people who point out flawed assembly things, 
but I can't help myself. Your adjustable cable stop on the right shift 
lever boss, for the rear derailer cable, is upside down. That one belongs 
on the left side. 

Ride that bike lots!!

td

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[RBW] Re: Low trail, lightest tubing bikes really all that?

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, April 17, 2014 1:08:22 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 Anyone here own a low-trail/ lightest tubing bike?

 ... 

Do you find them really that much better performing (faster, flexier, 
 planier, efficient) than your  oversized steel tubing bikes, as I have 
 read about in reviews of them?


I have a Terraferma with standard diameter tubes, .7/.4/.7, 33mm of trail, 
650b with 42mm tires. It's still a bit dicey riding no-hands with weight in 
the handlebar bag below 10mph, but overall the handling is great. It is 
noticeably flexy even under my skinny 130 pounds. I don't have any analytic 
evidence that it's faster than my other bikes, which include a prototype 
Bleriot, the prototype Heron road, and a custom Rivendell road. My favorite 
feeling bike of all of them is the Heron road, which has OS .8/.5/.8 tubes 
and heavy seat and chain stays. I had John Sotherland rake the Heron fork 
out to 55mm and it's even better, especially when I put a handlebar bag on 
it. I get some occasional shimmy when I load the front on any of them, but 
I find the shimmy is much, much worse when I have weight both in the front 
and in a saddle bag. I know that, in theory, steel is steel, but in my 
subjective experience, Reynolds 531 is magic.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI, USA

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Re: [RBW] Fully Riv'd Santana Touring Tandem

[RonaTD]

If anyone is sad they missed out on William's beautiful Santana, you have a 
second chance. John Sotherland is selling his.

john sotherland j...@sotherlandbikes.com


On Saturday, March 15, 2014 4:22:46 PM UTC-5, William! wrote:

  Hi David, 
 I have gotten a pretty overwhelming response on the tandem and there are a 
 couple folks ahead of you in line. It’s likely I will sell it tomorrow, but 
 I will let you know if anything changes.



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[RBW] Re: NAHBS 2014 Pictures

[RonaTD]

On Saturday, March 15, 2014 7:54:18 PM UTC-5, David Spranger wrote:

 We left our camera at home, but my spouse did what she could with my 
 phone. She took pictures of anything that took her interest.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/73873271@N03/sets/72157642402340484/


Thanks so much for posting those. One of these years I will get to that in 
person. So much fun stuff to see!

The Bilenky tandem HAS to get best in show. Wow.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI, USA 

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[RBW] Tires make a difference?

[RonaTD]

I have used 3 different sets of tires on my Bleriot/Protovelo in the last few 
months:
Nokian A10
Riv Fatty Rumpkin (the original ones)
Pacenti Pari Moto

The difference in riding effort/speed is astonishing. I describe the difference 
between the Nokians and the Pari Motos as three gears (on a wide range 
cluster). I met up with pal Kurt for the last 10 miles of his epic January 
200km ride, and I exhausted myself trying to keep up with him. Two weeks 
earlier, on Pari Motos on a 200km brevet, I flew away from him on the first 
climb. 

The Fatty Rumpkins are in between, but far aback of the Pari Motos. I tried to 
mount the Fatty Rumpkins for commuting last week (surely winter must be over) 
and gave up after an hour of trying to get them to mount straight. The Pari 
Motos went back on. Event tires, I guess, but commuting is an event, too. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI, USA

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[RBW] Re: Pics from inside Waterford

[RonaTD]

On Monday, February 17, 2014 10:27:22 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 Richard and Johanna at Waterford very kindly indulged my curiosity for 
 their amazing workshop in Waterford.  


I was there on Friday afternoon, dropping off my almost 30 year old Santana 
tandem frame for them to do a new paint job on it. It had been a long time 
since I'd been there. A lot has changed in that time but, ironically, it's 
a lot more like it was when we were building Herons than in the intervening 
15 years. It's really nice for them that they've been able to go back to 
focusing on beautiful lugged steel road frames. And, yes, they do their own 
painting. Unfortunately, though, the guy who did the beautiful box striping 
on the Boulder Bicycle frames has retired. No box striping for my Santana - 
rats!

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Just what is oversized tubing?

[RonaTD]

Back to the thread topic … oversize vs standard or skinny tubes …

I have a variety of mostly Rivendell bikes (Herons, Riv Road, Riv MTB, 
Quickbeam, Bleriot Protovelo) generally built with plus-sized tubes, though 
the Riv Road has identical 28.6 top and down tubes.  And I have a 
Terraferma 650B skinny light tube brevet bike. 

FWIW… I can feel the obvious differences between them, but tires make far 
more difference than the frames make. That said, my favorite ride, in terms 
of performance and comfort, is the original Heron prototype road, built 
with OS 531 and the heavy seat and chain stays from the touring frame 
'cuz that's what Waterford had available. The rear of the bike is 
noticeably heavy when you pick it up. But when riding, it's like a magic 
carpet. I weigh all of 125-130 pounds. On paper, the Terraferma should be 
the clear winner. In practice, it hasn't worked out that way. 

My conclusion is that your mileage WILL vary.

Oh, and does this thread remind anyone else of the standard reach brake 
controversy, or does that just show how old I am?

Ted Durant

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[RBW] Re: Rainbow 200

[RonaTD]

A few photos…

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronatd/sets/72157639962855526/

Ted Durant

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Re: [RBW] Rainbow 200

[RonaTD]

Andy and I had a great time on the first leg. I was on the Travelo (Bleriot 
Protovelo with SS couplers). The ride started chilly, upper 40s, but for 
somebody from Wisconsin it was short sleeve weather. Once the sun got above the 
hills it warmed up fast. Got up to about 90 on the climbs up to Rainbow. Then 
some clouds built up and it was cool back at the coast, where I had a lovely 
sunset ride down PCH back to La Jolla. Lots of hills on that ride, with a few 
fun switchback descents to reward you for all the work getting to the top.  Not 
as many scenic vistas as I thought we might get. Fun group of people, lots of 
strong riders, and great support with well placed water/food stops.  Great job 
by SD randonneurs.  Didn't get much in the way of photos but might post a few 
when I'm back to the winter wonderland.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] Re: AHH, 4H and the Driveway moment.

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, December 29, 2013 8:00:52 PM UTC-6, Thomas Graves wrote:

 My second day out on my new (to me) Hilsen I had a similar moment. I biked 
 home from work, but the riding was too much fun, I didn't want to get off 
 the bike.  So I just kept riding.   


I know exactly what you mean. My first ride on the prototype for the Heron 
Road, I was out for around 2 1/2 hours, but I got to my garage door and 
turned around and went out for another hour. It's still my favorite bike.

Ted Durant 

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[RBW] Hetres vs. Pari-Moto, your thoughts?

[RonaTD]

I did two seasons on Pari Motos. The first year I did a solo 600 km ride that 
involved a large amount of gravel. I commuted regularly on them into the 
winter. The second year I did a super rando series on them. This year I have 
done 8 200km rides on Hetre extra legers. So, I think I have enough experience 
to qualify as a good data point.

I had only a couple of flats on the Pari Motos at the end of their life, which 
probably totaled a few thousand kilometers of urban and rural 
Wisconsin and Minnesota roads and trails. Performance wise, they are the 
fastest feeling tires I have ever ridden.

The Hetre ELs are so far flat free on mostly suburb and and rural Wisconsin 
roads. They feel almost as nice as the Pari Motos but the difference is 
noticeable. I will probably go back to Paris Motos for my rando bike.

Can't go wrong with either.

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Re: [RBW] Hetres vs. Pari-Moto, your thoughts?

[RonaTD]

Well, for full disclosure, I'm 5'6 and 125lbs, so your mileage may vary!

On Tuesday, November 19, 2013 9:28:21 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Thanks.  Fast is what I want.  However I am pretty heavy at 6'7 and 265is


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[RBW] 200km in January suggestions

[RonaTD]

Calling all warm weather randonneurs.

I'm planning to finish an R-12 in January. Since the first 11 will all have 
occurred in Wisconsin, I'm hoping to reward myself by doing the last one 
somewhere a bit more, ah, clement. So, please weigh in with your 
suggestions for a great 200km brevet (or a permanent) in January 2014 
somewhere we can count on fabulous weather.  In the continental U.S.A.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI

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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Motorcycle Riding and Bicycles

[RonaTD]

 So what are YOU riding?


I rode a Vespa 300 for a couple years, then switched to a MotoGuzzi V7 
Classic. It's about as basic a motorcycle as you can buy these days. I have 
found that learning to ride a motorcycle properly (starting with a good MSF 
course) has significantly improved my bicycle handling. I have a very bad 
habit of looking down at the road surface in a corner. You need to read 
that surface well before you get there, pick a line, and be looking where 
you want to exit the corner as you enter. The saying, the bike goes where 
you are looking becomes far more apparent when you have 40 hp driving the 
rear wheel of a 400 pound bike. (I can't even fathom what 100 hp feels 
like...)  I saw a great example yesterday. As I slowed to stop at an 
intersection (2-way stop my direction), a cyclist coming from the left 
turned into the street I was on at a very high speed. (Lycra, carbon bike, 
shaved legs, earphones plugged in, but no judgement here.)  It happened 
very quickly, but my recollection is he saw me, panicked, looked down, and 
hit the pavement. He may have clipped his pedal - I think I heard a loud 
clack just before he went down.  To his credit, at least he knew how to 
fall without breaking his collar bone. And he didn't hit me, thankfully.

I'm actually not riding the Guzzi now. Made a deal with my wife and am 
driving a Honda S2000, instead, when I'm not on a bicycle.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI, USA

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