[TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations
Okay tankers, I’m interested in getting my M60 back on the road, but lighter. Based on the discussion at the last battle, I would be interested in looking to replace my 2 SLA 12v 18Ah batteries with LiFePo4. Recommendations for sources of LiFePo4 and Ah that would work for the typical 1 hour all-out racing I would want to conduct? Paul -- -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "R/C Tank Combat" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Re: Gremlins of Gettysburg
Regarding the Cromwell I'll sit on the flag so no one can take it maneuver: Given the rare occurrence that Will and I had noticed that all of the enemy tanks were in home base for repairs or clean-up, we had to take matters in our own hands and move the dead Cromwell off the road!! Regarding the M-60 catastrophic idler axle failure: So it is true that while the 3/8 axle was fine, the 1/2 square tube was not sufficient to hold back the tension on the arm from snapping the joint. It was most likely that during football, a semovente was pushing its weight around and caught the idler just right. This caused the right side from failing. Now for the rest of the news. It turns out that when I removed the treads from the left side, I was probably 5 minutes from experiencing a complete separation of the left tread. One of the inner treads covering the treadmill belt joint was missing which meant that a sequence of treads would have started popping off the track if it continued to run! Bottomline: I'll be rebuilding this winter! Now back to my mineral spring baths to sooth the 8 welts on my legs from being the human target yesterday!! On Oct 26, 2014, at 9:26 PM, Caleb Smith wrote: Wow, that's quite the list. Discovered that the cause of the meltdown was from the ESC's burning out. I'll have to take a deeper look and see why so this doesn't happen again. Thanks to John and Frank and everybody else that tried to help me get running. Hopefully, the Quarter Pounder will return in the spring more powerful than ever. :) Highlight of the day: When Steve drove over the flag to keep Paul from getting it. Then Paul picking up and moving the Cromwell to get the flag. I just wish I had some space on the memory card to catch it. On Sunday, October 26, 2014 7:17:31 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote: They were out in force today. Navarone. not sure why -Out M-60 catastrophic idler axle failure- Out 25 Pounder - Servo elevate failure, then whole system meltdown - Out Semovente- temp screw snapped on road wheel assembly I believe- repaired PzII (mine) marker not recocking first time low voltage on 9 volt -replaced sweaty paintballs chopped in barrel, and feed area , so much sweat that the cooper feed tubes from the hopper had to be cleaned out for the new ammo to roll freely reverse thread set screw worked loose and allowed right drive to totally disengage. and the left had slightly loosened -re tightened Hetzer- unsportsmanlike conduct from Cromwell- blindside block from the rear broke the safety switch- replaced If the rest of you could add to the list please. Too many to keep track off. After the failure of my left motor at the Mullins farm, I used anti-seize compound on the drive axles and the reverse set screws. Reason: Had to destroy part of the motor to get it apart. Held up for 2 years and 12 battles. Just have to remember to check them before each days battle now. Highlight of the day:the new and improved BAZOOKA JOE.. Deadly, especially so if a Frenchman is in command of a Tiger. LOL..Well done, both to the mechanical aspects Mike, and the aiming ability of David. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [TANKS] Attachment chain (once again)
Yes, I have my old KV-1 treads. Also still have the drive and idler sprockets. For planning purposes, the tracks are ~14lbs each and about 75 inches long. Paul P. On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:32 PM, 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat wrote: My brother Paul might still have the attachment chain from the KV1 . I'll ask for you. John P. On Friday, June 6, 2014 9:20:06 AM UTC-4, Don Shankin wrote: Yeah, I looked at McMaster. I was hoping that there would be something cheaper... Maybe somewhere between the $2/foot that Will sold it at years ago, and the $4.43 PER LINK that mcmaster sells them for now. -Don On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:58 AM, isaac goldman panthe...@gmail.com wrote: Mcmaster-carr has great stuff including the chain you want, but you have to play the shipping price lottery if you want to order from them... http://www.mcmaster.com/ On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:24 AM, d0n dsha...@gmail.com wrote: Hi all: I joined this group a while back. I don't remember if I've ever posted before. I think I finally have some spare time to devote to building a tank I'd like to go with an attachment chain track system. I've done a lot of searching, and I haven't seen anything recent (as in the last few years) regarding sources for 2060 attachment chain. Apologies if I've missed any recent threads. -Don -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctank...@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Isaac Goldman 5142334423 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctank...@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Donald Shankin -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[TANKS] The Silent Brother Speaks
Tankers, I've seen a flurry of recent posts discussing the merits of different types and styles of tanks. As one of the tankers who had a 36 scale Russian heavy tank, T018 - KV-1, current owner of one of the smallest 1/6 scale German tank, T077 - Panzer II, and in the process of building a 36 scale American monster, M60A3, I've found that the following three factors are what I most worry about: (1) Reliability of the tank when operated under battle conditions, (2) Accuracy in firing paint at the adversary, and (3) Efficiency in reincarnation. In fact, I would say that the above list is prioritized with reliability being most important. Basically, if your tank can operate in whatever conditions we battle in, you're bound to have a good time and score some hits. I'm not proud and will gladly score the mercy kill when someone throws a track, we determine that their ball feed is no longer working, their gun is misfiring, or my favorite, their battery cut-off cut-off because they hit a tree backing up! Given that some of the venerable tanks (Tiger T001, Hetzer T010, T026 SU-100, and T040 Cromwell) are definitely showing their age, having a tank that is reliable on the battle field is key. Accuracy for me is all about being able to quickly line up a target, fire, adjust, fire again, and then get moving! The tank destroyer gang enjoy the slow, get in your face, first one to budge is going to get blasted, style of battle. In either case, it's your ability to line up a target and fire before someone else does the same to you. Lastly, regardless of whether you have a small tank, large tank, fast tank or slow tank, you're going to get painted. Therefore, the ability to quickly get back to base, clean off the offensive goo, reload and get back into the battle is important. The above is offered for consideration. Bottomline: Build the type of tank you like, but be mindful of what it takes to survive the battle. Paul -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] 0.50 Marker
Loic, John's correct in that both of us found out that at certain ranges the .50 marker paintballs would bounce off other tanks. I also found that the smaller paintballs would not fly as straight. That could have been the paintballs themselves. Since I ended up redesigning the turret (created the current all-aluminum version), I found enough room to put a regular .68 marker. Another item that I consider when designing tanks: Use components or parts that others in the hobby might be familiar with or potentially carry with them to the battle. Several times I've gotten parts from Joe, Will, Frank, or John, in order to perform a field repair on my tank. This was one of the reasons why I went back to the .68 marker. Paul On Nov 5, 2013, at 10:14 AM, Loic atFOA wrote: Hello Fellow Tankers! I just purchased a couple 0.50 Paintball markers. I want to install them on my Pz.IV family of tanks (0.5 is a 76.2mm scale size, Pz.IVH had a 75 mm). But I heard that the ball being so small has a better ballistic than the 0.68? However, the weight of the 0.68 is 3.2g compared to the 1.2g of the 0.50. Effective range of both sizes are around 150 ft (45 m). Another advantage/disadvantage of the 0.50 caliber might be the thickness of its soft gel shell, which would be harder to break inside a barrel, but maybe too hard to break on impact against a foe (less kinetic energy on impact?). Impact are also harder to notice... but you can put a lot more balls in your tray! (-; Searching on the Internet, I find a LOT of opinions on pros/cons of the 0.50 size. But not any facts. I'd like to see realistic ballistics on comparable gun platforms. Obviously, I'm going to try myself. I just have to swap the guns on the Tiger. I have several questions: 1. Paul Pitelli tried one of those markers in the past. Are those results posted? 2. I asked Steve about the rules on 0.50 size, and it does not seem that there are limitations on paintball sizes? BTW, I have updated FOA website with some sub-components of the FOA Combat Tiger. Let me know what you think [hint: advertizement plug] http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/product_p/foa-mpss3.htm http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/product_p/foa-ttes2.htm http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/product_p/foa-ttms2.htm Cheers from snowy Utah, Loic, the White Knight Slacker http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [TANKS] British Invasion
First, a very good battling weekend and we'll have to see if that set a record for the most number of tanks on the field for a battle. It is also worth noting that as our hobby is one to truly stress-test the designs everyone is implementing in battle scenarios, based on the breakage this weekend, I believe the Panzer II Aus.J's (T77 T79) based on the fact that they are the two tanks that exited the field of battle with full functionality and armament, should be the senior ranking tanks of the hobby! While prior to the battle, news of partial functionality is protected like NFL football injury news, after the battle it is fair to report: T001 (Tiger) - While masterfully operated by Sir Neil of Manchester, had the ultimate one position (luckily forward) turret rotate the entire battle. It is fully anticipated that T001 will be honorably discharged and retired (and sent to a nice tank retirement village). T010 (Hetzer) - After 55 battles and who knows how many student frat parties, one of the motors finally had enough and turned into a brick. As these motors are no longer manufactured, looks like the Sommer factory needs to fire up and build the Sherman that has been in design for a couple years. T026 (SU-100) - One of the more deadly tanks on the field now has electronic gremlins that caused lack of elevate/rotate for the weekend. This looks like a complete electronic overhaul or maybe a little duck-tape! T039 (Comet) - Never before have we seen total and permanent failure when Marty displayed the internal broken magnets within one of the Comet motors. Luckily Marty took his tank commander knowledge and quickly established the mobil artillery brigade for foxes! T040 (Cromwell) - After passing through the sound barrier one to many times, the Cromwell turret completely collapsed into five or six pieces. Nothing a little super glue/duck tape can't solve! We are taking up a collection and buying small sheets of aluminum for Steve to rebuild the mighty Cromwell. T058 (Tiger) - While motor problems seem to plague the field and first thought to be the cause of T058 problems, it turned out to be a much easier chain slippage issue that brought the T058 off the field of battle. Unfortunately, the Windows OS control system isn't yet programmed to determine the real issue and continued to require reboot or blamed Apple for the failure! T077 (Panzer II) - Worked like a champ. I will admit that once it got home for cleaning and maintenance, I was very close to losing my main drive wheel as it came lose from its bracket. This probably occurred during the victory spin-outs after being the first Fox to survive a Fox Hound battle. T079 (Panzer II) - Temperamental gun issues delayed a battle, but once the electronics were repaired, fellow Panzer II scored serious points during the weekend. T100 (Semovente) - Call Sign should be chopsaw for all the paint that exploded in the barrel! Designers were already developing the new improved magazine feed after Day 1 morning battle. Paul -- -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups R/C Tank Combat group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[TANKS] Hi from Montréal
Hi there everyone! I stumbled on your group a few weeks back and got pretty interrested in the hobby, the way you guys do it, the collaboration, the end result, the simple prospect of hours of fun and hard work in the shop followed by some remote controled paintball tank games in the field. For a little about me, I'm in Montréal, Canada. I have no military experience like some of you have but I do hunt large game and play paintball as well. Recent medical conditions have forced me to stop active paintballing but the prospect of a more complex, developped, remote controlled activity with hours of handy work is appealing. I needed something to occupy my hands and my mind outside of work :-) I'm thinking about a Leopard 2, already bought a Tamiya 1:35 model to have a reference in scale. Chose this one, question of keeping a little nationalism with my fellow Canadian soldiers who use them. I'm currently gathering ideas and informations, as much as I can from reading your exchanges, here and also from the website. How to build or what to buy for tracks. Motors, etc... Someone mentionned looking at Intralox tracks, I visited their website but didn't find exactly what would be required in 85mm or so, tracks. If one of us contacted them and got more information, availability, pricing etc... I'd be interrested. So far I'm thinking 12 aluminium, slim, lazy-suzan for turret support and rotation, Tippmann 98 I already have as paintball marker... I'm also thinking of a mechanical way to keep all the electronics in the hull and have a dumb, fully 360° capable turret. But I'm sure I will learn a lot as you guys did, when I begin putting the things together for real. It's fun and often amazing reading you and watching what you've come up with... I hope I'll be able to show up eventually with my own tank on the field. Any stories about crossing the border with an RC tank in the trunk? :-) PA Chapdelaine Montréal, QC, Canada -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
Re: [TANKS] New School vs Old School
Two things sent me towards the Leopard 2: 1- since it's my first time modeling something of the sort from scratch I was looking at simple lines and shapes. There are lot of superb older models that have a the look and the history that make them great... But since the internals are pretty much all the same and we don't scale the performence to match the original, old or new will theorically perform the same in the field. So I chose one that looks a bit easier, straighter lines, more room to works inside. 2- Since I may drive down from Canada and kick you butts I thought it would look nice to have something the actual Canadian army uses. Hehehe, seriously, with point #1 in mind, I looked at what the Canadians are or have been using and the Leopard 2 sounded like a good choice. So the Canadian will be roaming around with a Canadian tank... PA 2012/8/23 Aaron afreem...@live.com Funny how I was going to start this conversation topic and all of a sudden some one comes out saying they are going to build a modern MBT. But this is my question. Why are the overwelming majority of our tanks of the WW2 era and not of the modern design? What drives most of us to model after older and inferior armor instead of the newer and superior breeds? I chose an M4 Sherman variant as my own despite the obvious flaws and limitations it possesed in history. I did so for a few reasons - It had simple lines - It was iconic American - It for some reason spoke to me in a way that no other had That may sound funny, but I wasnt really overly interested in the biggest and the baddest. I was drawn instead to the over worked and under powered machine that did by sheer determination. What are your thoughts? What made you choose yours? Aaron F -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
{Disarmed} RE: [TANKS] T-34 origins
It did have a tiny gun. All other tanks of the era had similar tiny guns. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ryan P. Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 8:00 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] T-34 origins It had a tiny gun for light weight. Ryan p. On Mar 31, 2011, at 12:06 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: don't know what it was called before that, but i think there is a tank fan in here that should know - it looks like one of them tanks that could run with or without tracks. i think it had light armor and could travel at fast speeds, someone i thought made a tank similar to it, i think it was even mocked up out of cardboard first Chris, Odyssey Slipways http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17210) http://www.pctools.com http://www.pctools.com/?cclick=EmailFooterClean_51 === === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17210) http://www.pctools.com/ === -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
{Disarmed} RE: [TANKS] T-34 origins
Yep, BT-7. Basic design by J. Walter Christie. By all accounts Mr. Christie was rather difficult to deal with. He had several run ins with the war department. His designs were also influential in the development of the British cruiser tanks such as the Comet and Cromwell as well as the Polish TP-10. As far as I've been able to find out, there is a single example of a Christie M-1928 or T-3 Combat Car at Aberdeen Proving Ground. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Caylor Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 1:12 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] T-34 origins Its called the BT-7, and yes the early versions could run on roads with the tracks removed, but the design was switched to only allow tracked travel due to the trackless design being impractical. On Mar 31, 2011 12:07 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: don't know what it was called before that, but i think there is a tank fan in here that should know - it looks like one of them tanks that could run with or without tracks. i think it had light armor and could travel at fast speeds, someone i thought made a tank similar to it, i think it was even mocked up out of cardboard first Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:rctankcombat%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17210) http://www.pctools.com http://www.pctools.com/?cclick=EmailFooterClean_51 === === Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.17210) http://www.pctools.com/ === -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] cheap 12 action figures
Ken.. Try a department store like Walmart. You can buy separate heads if you don't want them all to look the same. Heads and uniforms can be had on ebay in lots. Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of dwconn...@comcast.net Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:34 AM To: rctankcombat Subject: [TANKS] cheap 12 action figures Hello - Does anyone of a source for cheap 12 (1/6 scale) military action figures ? I need a few for R/C tank paintball combat. I don't want to spend $80 apiece for collection quality figures to get painted, but that's generally what I'm finding. Is there anything around for $10-$15 each ? Thanks, Doug -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] surpluscenter supplement catalog?
I never use their paper catalog. Their website looks the same to me. https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 1:42 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] surpluscenter supplement catalog? i got a smaller catalog from the surpluscenter and was wondering is this just a seasonal supplement catalog or is this their (new size) regular catalog? I just tried calling them to check, but said i'd have to call back during regular weekday work hours. i'm just curious if this is the new regular catalog, because if this is the new regular catalog, they dropped a bit of stuff and can be a problem for some of use as they dropped just about all of the sprockets Chris, Odyssey Slipways http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Battery?
Look at the sealed lead acid batteries on the same site. To answer your questions, no and no. Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ryan wells Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:54 PM To: tank guys Subject: [TANKS] Battery? Would this battery work for a tank... is it even rechargeable? http://www.batterymart.com/p-eveready-732-12v-lantern-battery.html Ryan P. -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios
My Spektrum DX-6 came with a charger that can be used for the transmitter and receiver batteries at the same time. Looks like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=390160038501rvr_id=crlp =1_263602_263622UA=%3F*I7GUID=495d97d91240a075f373dae3fffc7da4itemid=3901 60038501ff4=263602_263622 Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hamilton Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:43 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios You'll need a receiver battery and something to charge it. Dunno what a servo programmer is, I didn't need one to get the servos to work with the radio. On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 5:13 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote: If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these ASAP. Ryan P. Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. See how. -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- -Bill Hamilton -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios
Servo chart: http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servos.html The included link to the Giant Servo Chart is helpful as well. Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ryan wells Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:14 PM To: tank guys Subject: [TANKS] spektrum radios If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these ASAP. Ryan P. _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. See how. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON: WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios
Another huge servo chart: http://www.servodatabase.com/servos/all Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of ryan wells Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 6:14 PM To: tank guys Subject: [TANKS] spektrum radios If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the optional reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these ASAP. Ryan P. _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. See how. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON: WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Vex Transmitter
I have one with a bum channel. 3 I think Would this work for you? Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Tyng Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:46 AM To: R/C Tank Combat Subject: [TANKS] Vex Transmitter Anybody have a VEX transmitter they'd be willing to let go for a good price? Steve Tyng -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Reciever control
Couldn't you use a relay with a 5V coil to control the 12V load? Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of steveh Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 6:33 PM To: R/C Tank Combat Subject: [TANKS] Reciever control Ok, Since receivers have a voltage output of 3-7v roughly, does anyone know of a way to convert that so that you can control a 12vdc relay? Thank You Steve -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Reciever control
Guess I didn't think that one through, did I Frank? There are several gizmos on the market to do this. Here are a couple: http://www.endurance-rc.com/rcswitches.html http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/3206-Electronic-R-C-PWM-Switch-RC-110 -.aspx http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-TD-RCE210.html http://www.bpesolutions.com/rcequip.html Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 1:50 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Reciever control Paul Hilton wrote: Couldn't you use a relay with a 5V coil to control the 12V load? The servo signal is not an analog signal, it is a logic signal with a 1-2ms wide pulse that repeats approx every 20ms. As such, it can't be used directly to trigger anything, it must be interpreted by another circuit. The receiver pin also doesn't source enough current to drive anything other than logic levels. Simple PIC circuits can be designed to translate from servo signals to switches of any size. See: http://www.anvilus.com/mrc.html for an inexpensive circuit that can drive 4 relays (or any 150ma load) from two servo channels. It even includes mixing if you want that feature. Add 4 inexpensive auto relays to that circuit and you'll have a solution that is far less expensive and far easier to fix than anything else on the market. Frank P. -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Sprockets
This is about the best for sprockets. https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Morgan, John Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:32 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Sprockets What is a good source for sprockets? I need a 4.5 - 5 inch diameter 12 or 13 tooth sprocket (actually, I need 4 of them). Thanks, John Morgan Richmond, VA -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Re: Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?
And yet more smiles! Glad to see this scooter motor controller biz working out! As for me, I've put the BT-7 on hold to work on the spin caster and mold vulcanizer... I've also been bitten by the 1/16 scale bug But I'm still here! Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:51 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers? Fred Thomson wrote: I would be very interested in one of these for the Ariete and would love to retrofit the Bulldog. Do you have any data on cost? Price is the first and last thing I think about ... I'm currently in the middle of the process (prototype, design, testing, manufacturing) so I won't know for sure until the actual boards are laid out. My target all along has been dual-motor control for less than $100 and I now know that goal is definitely attainable, now I just need to see how low the bar can be set. Frank P. -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Rubber for Wheels
Two ideas that I had were vacuum cleaner belts and those rubber bracelets that kids wear. You might also try vulcanizing your own tires! Paul H. From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Morgan, John Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:31 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Rubber for Wheels Hi all, I nearly have the suspension done for the Sherman. I need to get rubber for the wheels. The wheels are 2.75 in diameter and 1.25 in width. I would love to get an elastic band so the rubber would be seamless, but have had no luck finding such. If any of you have ideas, let me know. Thank you, John Morgan Richmond, VA -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?
This makes me smile!!! Paul H. -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:56 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [TANKS] Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers? Thomas Lum wrote: I was wondering how the scooter speed controllers worked out on the T012? Any field test results? They worked without a problem during the last Gettysburg battles, which is our only battlefield experience to date. However, I plan on deploying some more vehicles with scooter motor controllers in 2010 which is an indication of how well I think they work. At $20-$25 for each 350W-500W controller they fit well into my beefy, cheap and repairable approach to system design. For much less the price of the high-amp commercial products (less than $100), I'll be using two scooter controllers, 4 auto relays and a circuit board to provide fully proportional speed control. With the money I save, I'll have a nice stockpile of spare parts in my box. More importantly, since the system is modular, if something does fail (on any vehicle) I can replace any individual component in the field in just a couple minutes with only a screwdriver. The only significant drawback of the approach is that the solution requires more space in the vehicle than a fully integrated commercial speed controller because the scooter controllers have their own heat sink cases. On the other hand, they have much more surface area for cooling. If space is a major concern, the scooter controllers can be replaced by a pair of SSRs and heat sinks, resulting in a clone of the Anvilus controller design ... which has been successfully used in dozens of battles by various vehicles for over 5 years. (In fact, the scooter motor controller approach is the evolution of the Anvilus design using modular components. Joe led the way with the development of some circuits to control the controllers, I've simply been running with the ball he passed to me, making things more modular.) The modular approach also requires more control wires between the circuit board and the relays/controllers, but the control wires are all small gauge. A complete set of scooter controller components will be on display at the upcoming Tank Expo 2010 which is tentatively slated for Saturday, Jan 16 in Annapolis. Frank P. -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -- You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
RE: [TANKS] Complete Newbie...
Welcome to the group! I was looking at building a B-1 Centauro myself! I think you should keep a couple of things in mind. Firstly, others will be shooting paintballs at your vehicle. This means that your hull will need to stand up to some pretty violent impacts. Secondly, your wheels will need to be in the neighborhood of 8 in diameter. I don't know much about monster trucks, but I haven't seen many with that size wheels. Thirdly, anything that you strengthen after you start your build will add weight. I would suggest going big from the start. And, finally.. Have a look at the rules for an armored car. No matter how large the gun, no matter how thick the armor the actual vehicle has, an arored car will always be at a disadvantage. Good luck!!! Paul H. From: whitney james [mailto:me1y...@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:06 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Complete Newbie... Hey all! Been a lurker here for more years than my pride would allow me to admit, but I'm finally taking the plunge and beginning a build. To start off with, the site is about tanks. That much is obvious. However, I've seen a couple armored cars there, and I think that is where my interest lies. And so, I present the B1 Centuaro. It's got a nice bulky body to fit all those moving bit's that make it do cool things, as well as nice sloped armor that will (in theory anyway) make up for a relatively weak armor rating (25mm up front: upgradable to 30mm). However, it does come with a 105mm main gun, so that puts us into Tank Destroyer territory. (evil little grin) http://www.sbmodels.net/images/New_From/ModelVictoria/MV002/images/MV0002.jp g file:///C:\DOCUME~1\njames\LOCALS~1\Temp\moz-screenshot.png file:///C:\DOCUME~1\njames\LOCALS~1\Temp\moz-screenshot-1.png Yup: it's wheeled. I don't know why, but in a place beyond all reason, I find a wheeled vehicle vastly easier to engineer than a tracked one. I know: I have issues. Still, what do you do? Anyway. The site has made the comment that RC car parts simply do not stand up to the strains demanded of them in this sport. Well, being a complete idiot, I threw that advice out in favor of RC parts. My basic plan is to scrounge Evil-Bay and dredge up some Nitro RC monstertruck parts, and build my driveline/suspension system from that. The vast bulk will be taken from the Traxxas company, as they seems of a fairly reputable sort, and their T-Maxx and Revo trucks are both everywhere, and as any number of UTube videos will document, are nearly indestructible. I figure anything designed to leap 12 feet in the air, fly 25 horizontal feet, land on it's head, and keep going is probably fairly tough. Additionally, parts can be had for fairly cheap, so there you go. As the B1 has 4 sets of wheels, I'll need parts from 2 RC monster trucks. I considered merely buying two of them, stripping what I need and Craigslisting/E-baying the rest of the bits off, but at ~$200 a pop, that was a bit too much of an initial investment. I'm on a bit of a budget here, as my better (and wiser) half has authorized around $20 a month to be put into this thing so that option was out. As mentioned, I've taken the plunge and purchased (won) 3 bulkheads (mounts for the swing arms: 2 rear, and 1 front), some swing arm pins (enough for 2 axles), and (hopefully) a set of A-Arms (2 axles worth). Assuming I am correct: that their description of a complete set of A-Arms included 4 upper, and 4 lower, I will be in possession of the above mentioned pieces for the grand total of $35.85. This is about half my suspension system. How to get the power to the wheels? you might ask. Again, the commercial market comes to the rescue. I've seen differentials for the Traxxas Revo 3.3 going for around $10 plus shipping. Considering it costs 6 times that to build one from your local hobby shop, that's on the menu for next month. In total, I'll need 6 (to be spread over a couple months, obviously): 2 for the front and rear most differentials, and 4 to be cannibalized into 2 through differentials for the two middle axles. Now: Most of the tanks I've seen built on the website (Yes, I've looked through every page of every single one) don't seem to take weight into account: building with materials such as solid plywood and steel. Note: I said most. (little winky emoticon) My goal will be to build as lightly as possible: hence the commercial nylon parts (and my lack of fabrication skills.). My assumption is (and yes: this may end up making an a** out of me) is that the lighter the vehicle, the less power will be required to move it. Also, as I only will have need of 1 power source. well, my logic falls apart there, but it seems like those two things should be complimentary. Less power requirements means less battery requirements means less weight means less power requirements means less battery. you get the idea. As a power source (remember, we're
[TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension?
Cowan wrote: Thanks, Paul! thats exactly the info i was looking for. Im a bit apprehensive about making my own springs... do you think welding the bars to anchor them to the hull or swing arms change the temper of the springs? Otherwise, I may have to borrow Brads idea with the locking set screws...Im also trying a modified version of the hacksaw blade torsion bars in an earlier post... by having the blades inside grease filled axles there seems to ba a sort of shock absorbing quality im hoping might help prevent pitching during starts and stops...luckily ive only got 10 road wheels to work with. Thanks again, Ed p.s Imagine one of the torsion bars shattering in the full scale tiger? right under the drivers seat! On Oct 30, 8:54 am, NavyShooter cof...@ns.sympatico.ca wrote: Here's a peek at a bottom view of my suspension, showing a single Torsion bar in place. http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T066/025-large.jpg I used 1/4 spring steel, ground a flat on one side, (each one is individually ground and fitted) and there's a 1/4 bolt tightened against that flat and locked in place with a nut. They will not move. I had the springs made up in an industrial shop on the waterfront, cost me $5 each. If they bend, then I'll straghten 'em or make a couple of new ones. With 4 rods, I can stand on the weighted frame and almost bottom it out. That's my 215 pounds plus the 100+ pounds of the frame. So, that means each wheel can support about 75 pounds. I have 14 wheels. That gets me over 1000 pounds. I hope that's good. We'll see how durable it is. Right now, my issue is alignment for the rear idler, and I'm working on that this weekend. Brad Yes Ed, welding will change the temper, I would avoid that. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension?
Well Ed, Full scale torsion bars are not light, I can tell you this from experience. Nor are they soft, they are in fact spring steel. When they fail, they tend to either sheer clean, or shatter. I suspect that 1/6th scale torsion bars would be best made from the same sort of material. As for threading the live end, I doubt that you will be able to, spring steel is pretty hard. Full scale torsion bars are keyed or splined on the ends. If you can start with a softer steel and harden it after threading, you'll be able to thread the ends. Getting several torsion bars the same spring rate would take practice, I would imagine. You may want to put left-handed threads on one side, so that gravity will help keep them tight. As an alternative, I've seen pics of simulated torsion bars made with torsion coil springs. I'll see if I can find them later. For now, I've attached a pic of a full scale Tiger I's torsion bar arrangement. The odd roadwheel alignment is a feature of torsion bar suspensions. It seems pretty strange at first and you would think it would cause all kinds of problems. It doesn't. An M-88 (the one I'm most familiar with) has a couple more track sections on one side. Think of the track as part of the ground. Maybe a better example would be a road. A road that the vehicle lays in front of itself, then recovers. Forward speed (or reverse) is not affected at all. Speed vs. input RPM is determined by the diameter of the drive sprocket, rather than the track length. You may find that it is easier to turn one direction over another due to friction, but I doubt it. Paul H. - Original Message - From: ? edco...@live.ca To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 3:04 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Torque rod suspension? I was am concerned about that too. Im worried that any rod light enough to twist under load would bend with a good smack from the side. I thought about threading the rods right into the swing arm so the arm sits right up against the hull, that might help... or have the torsion bar inside another axle. right now i'm experimenting with 5/8 tubing axles, filled with grease, with hacksaw blade torsion bars inside...I have another question though too. On the full scale Chaffee (and a lot of tanks I think) the starboard road wheels sit farther forward than the port ones, to allow the torsion bars to span the full with of the hull. Would this cause any problems with steering/approach angle? Thanks, Ed On Oct 29, 6:40 am, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote: I'd be interested to see how these bent rod suspensions hold their wheel alignments after a few hard days battling. Steve Tyng --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~--- attachment: 4551_b_1_sm.jpg
[TANKS] Re: Differentials
Run with it, Derek. We'll be watching... Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:10 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Differentials Now that the family and I are back from the Caribbean, I can add my two cents. I bought a couple of riding scooter (type used for people that have difficulty walking) differentials to play with. They are a limited slip type with a single motor. They are heavy (15lbs/per differential), but I think the heaviness could aide in traction for a battle vehicle. I was going to play with a seesaw type of suspension and use two of them on a vehicle so I could get 4 wheel drive. I do agree that the complexity of the steering and suspension of a wheeled vehicle is more daunting that actually creating a tracked vehicle. In order to steer the vehicle, I would need to make one of those heavy duty steering servos using a geared motor and a standard r/c servo. Building a wheeled vehicle is pretty low on my list of projects though. Derek T065 On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote: We talked about self-propelled lawnmower differentials like the ones they sell at Surplus Center. It turns out that they cannot go in reverse with some mechanical modifications. -Doug From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of mac wynkoop Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 6:25 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: Differentials Well, not too long ago I saw a differential on my neighbor's self-propelled lawn mower. It looked like it would fit a tank perfectly. Maybe I should ask him if he wouldn't mind pushing it again... On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 12:26 PM, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote: I have given the subject of differentials in a 1:6 scale r/c combat vehicles some thought over the years. At one point I was interested in building an armored car (AC) and may still do so. I looked at the various differentials currently available and have yet to find one that I feel is appropriate for our vehicles. On the heavy end are the differentials built for go-karts. These are to large for a typical 1:6 scale AC and have monster 3/4 or 1 output shafts. On the other end of the spectrum are the hobby differentials produced for monster scale r/c trucks. I've looked at these and weren't impressed with there robustness and many plastic parts. I have seen references to differentials for 1/4 scale r/c sand buggy's that sounded good but they were on a German site with little info and the pricing looked to be exorbitant. IMO the best option will be a dual motor setup (or quad motors for 4wd) driven from one speed controller. This electronic differential provides the same functionality as a mechanical one in that it provides varying power to the left or right drive wheels depending on load. It can be built as robust as required much as we build our drive-trains currently. The issue will be finding the appropriate motors for such a scheme. The motors will need to be relatively powerful and small to fit into the smaller chassis. For this all we need to do is look to the new electric skateboard sport where small high-powered motors of up to 600 watts can be found. While on Allellectonics.com the other day I noted a nice 135 watt motor that that I have seen used on electric skateboards and may prove to be ideal for the smaller wheeled r/c combat vehicle. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-130/24VDC-135W-MOTOR-W/-BELT-GEAR/1.html If I were to start building an AC tomorrow I'd get two of these motors and a single reversing scooter controller and design an AC around that. Steve Tyng --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: C6C hook up
Yes, it works. I assembled one in about an hour with a cheap soldering pencil. You do need some soldering skill to keep from bridging the circuits and roasting the components. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Kamron Duncan To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 2:06 AM Subject: [TANKS] C6C hook up I was wondering if this really works, and how reliable it is, and if its easy to put to gether? -- Conar () __)(__ '--' )( || || || || || || || || gnv \/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: legal question
This might help: http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm Paul H. - Original Message - From: David Cansler To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 10:04 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: legal question Because I'm too lazy to look through my books and do the math myself, to be honest I'm still sweating like a animal from a 4 mile run, does anyone have an idea of the size of a 1/6 Maus? David Florida Derek Engelhaupt wrote: You tell 'em David! :) Derek T065 On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 8:24 PM, David Cansler dc...@verizon.net wrote: I say go big or go home! 3ft is for pansies when it comes to the Maus, it's 1/6th or nothing. Keep in mind that I haven't completed a set of drawings, much less a working tank, in the 2 years that I've been a member of this group. David Florida Modena wrote: don't forget it doesn't have to be 1/6 scale, just needs to be at least 3 feet long On Sep 27, 5:50 am, Pureteenlard pureteenl...@hotmail.com wrote: Well I'm sure that Neil would see it as just a very BIG target! On Sep 26, 8:47 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote: I do believe I heard the powers that be say if someone had the gumption to build one that they would allow it. ;) But don't quote me on that. I would vote for allowing it, if it were put to a vote. Derek T065 On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 1:14 PM, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote: That has been hotly debated. Personally, I hold that since one of them saw combat in a defensive role, it'd be legal. Some do not agree, some do. I don't think it'd be the easiest tank to build, and that it'd require some powerful motors to run around. But it'd look cool. On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 2:01 PM, Kamron Duncan kamd...@gmail.com wrote: i was wondering if it is legal to build the maus german tank. the reason i ask is because it was built but not really used. -- Conar () __)(__ '--' )( || || || || || || || || gnv \/ -- Clark in Georgia, Commissar of the Red Banner Southern Fleet We will pass through the American patrols, past their sonar nets, and lay off their largest city, and listen to their rock and roll... while we conduct missile drills.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 2740 (20071221) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Rusty Bates
Does anyone know how to contact Rusty Bates? I'm close to conducting my first casting trials and am wondering about pin cores... Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Rusty Bates
Metal, but I may use resin as a spin caster can do either. I was wondering about Rusty Bates as he has already cast T-34 tracks in 1/6th scale using a spin caster. http://www.geocities.com/eastpac01/index.html I've tried contacting him, no luck. I'm pretty sure that I could get away with polished steel pins to use as cores for resin, not so sure I'd get away with it with metal. Paul H. - Original Message - From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 7:35 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Rusty Bates In a message dated 9/13/2009 4:55:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, phil...@defnet.com writes: Does anyone know how to contact Rusty Bates? I'm close to conducting my first casting trials and am wondering about pin cores... Paul H. is this metal or resin casting? Chris, Odyssey Slipways --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: (it's not a Sherman...) it's a M42
The Duster has twin AA guns... Bofors, I think... There is a static example fairly near me, if you need pics. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:23 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: (it's not a Sherman...) it's a M42 I guess I should've know to qualify that statement. That's the only difference as far as driving them. The engine, tranny, tracks, bogies, sprockets, and most of the deck plates are the same. There are differences in some of the hull areas and of course the turrets. Derek T065 On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 11:54 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 8/15/2009 12:46:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tan...@gmail.com writes: The main difference between the two is that the Duster has a manual pump to prime the fuel system while the Bulldog has an electric primer. and that's the only difference you noted between the 2? (the thought of a nude guy driving his car ending up for being arrested for not having proof of insurance, ownership or licence comes to mind - not sure if it was a joke or part of a movie and one cop asking the arresting patrolman - is that all you noticed was wrong?) Chris, Odyssey Slipways --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more little tank stuff...
I do like the smaller, earlier, more primitive vehicles tho
Paul H.
- Original Message -
From: Derek Engelhaupt
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: [TANKS] Re: {Disarmed} more little tank stuff...
When you refer to little tanks, what scale are you talking about?
The 1/16 scale tanks? Or just the smaller tanks in 1/6 scale?
Derek
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 11:59 AM, HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net wrote:
How ell do these little tanks drive on a lawn, say grass 4 or 5 in.
tall?
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[TANKS] {Disarmed} more little tank stuff...
- Original Message - From: Dana Lowell To: armornutsrcarmor...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:40 PM Subject: [Armornut's RC Armor Hut] Re: Summer fun at the AAF Tank Museum Cook-out today Glad you were in the area Bob. I have some video of the first Tamiya KV-1's in action, (below). 1) Thanks to Doug for hosting! http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809a.jpg 2) It was a good Summer gathering. I hope we do it again! http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809b.jpg 3) And thanks to Doug for letting me experiment with a place for us to stand centerfield: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809d.jpg 4) This little sidewalk gave us a closer vantage point to battle across the river. http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809g.jpg 5) Plus Doug made a simple electronic landmine for the field: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809p.jpg 6) When a tank drives over the micro-switch, the buzzer sounds and you are dead. Ironically, even though I watched him put the mine in place, later in the day I was the only tanker to hit the frackin' mine! Notice the buzzer hidden in the bushes: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809q.jpg 7) Speaking of Doug, he showed off a cool metal hull mod for the HL Panzer III: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809l.jpg 8) It is from AsiaTam, (whoever they are), and has beefier spring suspension: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809k.jpg 9) It was a typical bad day for my Mostly Broken Jumbo. The out-drive broke! http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809h.jpg 10) It was an all-metal gearbox from Impact, and the drive axel broke right in two! http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809i.jpg 11) Apparently the shaft was weakened where they scored it to hold the E-clip in place: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809j.jpg 12) The big news of the day was the two brand new Tamiya KV-1 tanks. Luckily, James and Dale let me drive them a while. Here's a close-up of James' tank after I got it nice and dirty for the first time! The short barrel allows for easy city fighting. http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809c.jpg 13) The engine start-up SF/X are cool! At full speed the KV-1 sounds like a vacuum cleaner, and at slow speed you can hear a clanking of metal tracks. Although the sound is rather muffled by the sealed hull. So to let the sound out better, I recommend cutting out those two hull exhausts under the turret bustle before covering the holes with the photo-etched grills. Here is the back of Dale's tank: http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809m.jpg 14) The tracks are 1-3/4 wide, just like the Tiger I, so it handles well in dirt. And even after 8 hits, I was still able to climb up a hill with it! Here's a peak inside. (You can see it a little better on my video, below). http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809n.jpg 15) One other mod that Dale suggests on the KV-1 is to fabricate a hull stiffener for the bow end. Because the torquing of the idler arms causes the thin hull to warp inwards, as seen in this photo. (Maybe our friend Daryl can invent a good fix someday!) http://www.lowell.to/tanks/cookout809o.jpg I just loved that new Tamiya KV-1 monster. It was a big hit at the museum Saturday. The KV-1 feels like a motorboat as it floats across the battlefield. I hope to get one as soon as I can! Well, thanks again to James and Dale for the test drives all day! And I especially want to thank Doug Gasser again for putting the food together and hosting a fun gathering for the regulars at Danville. -Dana Here is a link to my YouTube video of Doug's cookout: http://www.youtube.com/user/heatarmor __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (2) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Polls | Members | Calendar Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Recent Activity Visit Your Group Give Back Yahoo! for Good Get inspired by a good cause. Y! Toolbar Get it Free! easy 1-click access to your groups. Yahoo! Groups Start a group in 3 easy steps. Connect with others. . __,_._,___ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Tank Diesel Sound
These Benedini sound modules seem popular in Europe: http://www.benedini.de/Home_E/home_e.html Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 6:45 PM Subject: [TANKS] Tank Diesel Sound One of our members in Spain would like to know where he can purchase a mechanism to play a diesel engine sound in his tank. Anyone have experience with such things? Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Turret rotate motor?
American Science and Surplus sells a slower one for $14.50: http://www.sciplus.com/categorySpecial.cfm Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 4:47 PM Subject: [TANKS] Turret rotate motor? Just got this in my Email from Electronic Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17222 Looks like it might work well as a turret rotate motor Derek T065 --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: did I say that ?
Doug, If Joe ever perfects his gizmo, I have a two dollar way to defeat it! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Doug Conn To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:57 AM Subject: [TANKS] did I say that ? Joe brought a cool thermal camera to the recent battle. He was checking the tanks' heat signatures after the battles. I guess he's planning to win the coveted Pittelli X-Prize money and retire. I reminded Frank that he said he would allow manual control of the tank's tracks, but he didn't remember making that concession. Well, Frank, here it is verbatim from your May 18 post: Autonomous fire-control (ie. rotate/elevate/trigger) is sufficiently difficult that I have no problem allowing you to operate the tracks manually. Of course, you might be laughed at by the autonomous purists that seem to dominate the robotic world ... but then again, they probably won't have the guts to take on the challenge anyway ;-) Better warm up that check-writing pen. It's spelled A-N-V-I-L-U-S. -Doug --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?
Doug, Of the three categories of tankers that you've mentioned (Regulars, Owners and Hopefuls), I suppose that I'd fall into the latter one. One day I'll finish something. If there is anyone in the northwest Ohio area, I'd be glad to get together with you. A deadline might help! Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?
Perhaps Doug, Perhaps. Mid-PA is about the farthest that I'd be able to go. Time brother, just not enough of it! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Doug Conn To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 5:57 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ? Maybe a rendezvous in State Colege, PA ? That's Anvilus country. -Doug From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Hilton Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 5:05 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ? Doug, Of the three categories of tankers that you've mentioned (Regulars, Owners and Hopefuls), I suppose that I'd fall into the latter one. One day I'll finish something. If there is anyone in the northwest Ohio area, I'd be glad to get together with you. A deadline might help! Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Questions on hosting an event.
If one were to host an event, what would be required? I mean, aside from open grass and at least two vehicles, what else? Just curious. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: torsion bar suspension
Both the old and new boards can be found here: http://www.rctankcombat.com/ Most of the torsion bar biz is in the new mailing list. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Jason R Schafer To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 12:43 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: torsion bar suspension Where is this group board? Jason On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote: You may want to do a little search on the group boards, a lot of discussion has been put out there regarding torsion suspensions. Tom --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] DX6 HELP!
OK, here it is fellows. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get rid of all the mixing crap from my Spektrum DX6. Does anyone have a line-by-line setup guide for ground vehicles? I had the Spektrum setup attached to my Sabertooth 2x25 for a low volt, low amp test and couldn't get either motor to go forwards. I've since switched to the VEX setup and the Sabertooth works fine. Paul What the Hell is a Flaperon Anyway Hilton --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: DX6 HELP!
Good data, Blake. Not sure how it helps with the issues that I'm having with the DX6. The only reference to the DX6 that I saw was an ad to sell a radio. I do have two 1/16th scale tanks, so the link won't go to waste! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Blake Bobbitt To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: DX6 HELP! rctankwars.com smaller scale same electronics -- From: Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 11:22:28 AM Subject: [TANKS] DX6 HELP! OK, here it is fellows. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get rid of all the mixing crap from my Spektrum DX6. Does anyone have a line-by-line setup guide for ground vehicles? I had the Spektrum setup attached to my Sabertooth 2x25 for a low volt, low amp test and couldn't get either motor to go forwards. I've since switched to the VEX setup and the Sabertooth works fine. Paul What the Hell is a Flaperon Anyway Hilton --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: New to this hobby
Hah! A kindred spirit! Keep with it, Derek. I have the same issue, build then modify, then modify again. I haven't got a CAD program, nor Solid Works. What I have are ideas, some work out, some don't. Most of the time I need to build something to see why it won't work, then modify it so that it does. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 10:57 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: New to this hobby Oh, I spent a lot of time thinking about building...problem with thinking is there is no tangible product. Yes, my approach was to build it, test it, see it didn't work, and then build it again and again until it did work. That's just my personality though. I have to make progress (forward or backward) on something tangible or I get board. I've said it many times, the theory in my head didn't always work in a practical application. To me it's easier to fix something that's broke than it is to make something work from scratch even it means totally rebuilding the broken item. I haven't really wasted that much material though. I keep my mistakes and make smaller parts from the big mistakes... :) Derek T065 On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 9:29 PM, Gregory Pwneror sockles...@gmail.com wrote: Hmmm, Derrek, you took the same approach as Dave Manson and his Big Mother tank. But it works. Basically, prepare to spend a lot of time, blood, sweat, tears and money on it. Then get donw to it and get working. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: SSR go pop - the magic blue smoke comes out....
You might want to consider mounting your SSR's on a large heat sink. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Modena b...@holnet.net To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:41 AM Subject: [TANKS] SSR go pop - the magic blue smoke comes out I was playing with C6C and ESC calibration, had the tank up on blocks, and got it all working nicely, centered the joysticks yada yada then driving around a little in the garage, was about to do a climb test, and she stopped dead. Control relays on the Anvilus SSR were still clicking, but no movement. Shut everything down, started everything up again, go to move, POP and the magic blue smoke came out of one of the SSR's - now she still drives well, only in circles :( Anyone have any idea what would make an SSR go bang? I am using a 60amp fuse before the SSR, motors are M01's. The tank had no obstruction in its way, so its not like it was stalled. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Speed control question
Brad, I would suspect the long lead hookup might be the socket for the PS2 controller. Could be wrong, seems there are several versions. Paul H. - Original Message - From: NavyShooter cof...@ns.sympatico.ca To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:24 PM Subject: [TANKS] Speed control question Goodday folks, Well, I'm at the point where I want to make my tank move. Using something other than just holding the motor leads up to a battery terminal or two... So, I have a C6C prototype that came with my M01 motors I got from Anvilus. I've been looking at the C6C directions, and tonight I picked up a Sony PS2 hand controller. I'm still hanging out with my ears to the ground for the batteries I want, but what I need to add into the mix is ESC's for the motors, that can be controlled by the C6C. So. What do you guys recommend I pick up? The C6C I have came with a long lead hookup that appears to be some sort of converter thingie that'll go to the ESC (s) What ESC do you guys recommend? Should I buy independant (one per track) or one that's mixed control? I'm open to ideas folks. I spent the evening watching Marc's videos of Jurre's Leopard, and I'm wanting to get things rolling for the boy! Thanks, I appreciate your input! Brad --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] track tension
Here is my take on this, Chris. I haven't completed a tank yet and I'm not sure how all the completed vehicles have dealt with this. I am, however a longtime student of tank suspensions (full scale). I can't think of a single design that required the idler to be spring loaded. There DOES need to be some provision for adjustment. A spring might be handy in a fixed (unsprung) suspension to automatically adjust for stretch or wear. In a actual sprung suspension, the suspension springs would act as a sort of adjustment as the track base will only deform to a limited extent. However, in a simulated suspension system, such a device might be useful (I'm looking at such a system for my Voroshilovets). Let me explain. The track base (the area of ground contact) is a given length on a flat surface. If the track is presented a bump, the running track length at the base is increased. This increase must be made up from somewhere. In an actual suspension system, this would cause the vehicle to ride a bit closer to the ground as the other suspension members would give to allow the additional base length. In a simulated suspension, there are no suspension members to make up the difference. Paul H. - Original Message - From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 12:24 AM Subject: [TANKS] track tension i was just talking to someone about the tension of the tracks while running over things. i know it has been said in the past that the idler wheel should be sprung somehow to take up slack in the tracks as to prevent the tracks from getting too slack and possibly throwing themselves. but as i was talking to the person it occurred to me that i shouldn't have really any track slack as my road wheels are to scale and that the tracks will be riding over the tops of the road wheels, so as the tank rides over an object, the track goes up, the wheel goes up and hen the track (on top) goes up (taking out most of the slack). the only place i can see there being and exception to this would be the lead and trailing sets of road wheels. anyone wish to confirm or debate my thought as to being right or wrong? on another note, i just got my stainless steel button heads screws/bolts and washers today and they look nice, but i'll have to order more next week as i shorted myself about 100 screws/bolts, but for 250 button heads and 300 washers, with shipping, it was just over $37.00 - about $.08 cents each Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- Free Credit Report and Score Tracking! Get it Now for $0 at CreditReport.com. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes
Cheers, John! Wish I could have been there. Paul H. - Original Message - From: JOHN PITTELLI jpl...@yahoo.com To: tank club rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:27 AM Subject: [TANKS] Video restored from Gettysburg Kelly Heroes Finally able to lighten up the video so it can be viewed. Hope you enjoy it. John http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUO0wQayxrg If that does not work the video is under jplilycomet. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
Yup, bad transmitter. Second one works fine. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 12:23 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Ok, so I tried it. Vex transmitter to Vex receiver to Vex signal splitter to Futaba S3003 servo. The signal (white) wire on the tab end of the Futaba plug will go toward the tabbed slot in the Vex signal splitter. This will be on the outside edge of the signal splitter. All channels but 3 worked as expected. Channel 3 centered the servo then I had no response. I'll try my other Vex transmitter tomorrow. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 1:51 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Got it, Frank. I'll give it a go. I feel better knowing that I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking either item. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Paul Hilton wrote: Got the headers today! Thanks Frank! You were right about the spacing. As Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo that keeps it from being inserted. I'll remove the tab today. I don't know if the pin arrangement is the same. Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is: Signal - the inside pin, closest to RX circuit (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue) +V - center pin on connector (All brands = Red) GND- the outside pin, closest to edge of RX board (All brands = Black) With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a little, but you won't blow the RX or servo. If, however, you reverse +V and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX, servo or, for those lucky few, both. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
Got it, Frank. I'll give it a go. I feel better knowing that I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking either item. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Paul Hilton wrote: Got the headers today! Thanks Frank! You were right about the spacing. As Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo that keeps it from being inserted. I'll remove the tab today. I don't know if the pin arrangement is the same. Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is: Signal - the inside pin, closest to RX circuit (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue) +V - center pin on connector (All brands = Red) GND- the outside pin, closest to edge of RX board (All brands = Black) With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a little, but you won't blow the RX or servo. If, however, you reverse +V and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX, servo or, for those lucky few, both. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
Ok, so I tried it. Vex transmitter to Vex receiver to Vex signal splitter to Futaba S3003 servo. The signal (white) wire on the tab end of the Futaba plug will go toward the tabbed slot in the Vex signal splitter. This will be on the outside edge of the signal splitter. All channels but 3 worked as expected. Channel 3 centered the servo then I had no response. I'll try my other Vex transmitter tomorrow. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 1:51 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Got it, Frank. I'll give it a go. I feel better knowing that I have a 50/50 chance of getting it right with a very small chance of smoking either item. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 1:54 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Paul Hilton wrote: Got the headers today! Thanks Frank! You were right about the spacing. As Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo that keeps it from being inserted. I'll remove the tab today. I don't know if the pin arrangement is the same. Most servos now use the Futaba standard which is: Signal - the inside pin, closest to RX circuit (Futaba = white, Hitec = Yellow, Airtronics = Blue) +V - center pin on connector (All brands = Red) GND- the outside pin, closest to edge of RX board (All brands = Black) With that arrangement, if you reverse the connector accidentally (reversing Signal and GND), the servo will either sit still or chatter a little, but you won't blow the RX or servo. If, however, you reverse +V and GND wires, the magic smoke will be released from either the RX, servo or, for those lucky few, both. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
Now that, Steve is good intel! I am VERY interested in the TLE 5206-2 driver. I am ready for the Paul Harvey, (the rest of the story) whenever you would like to post it. A simple (very simple) diagram showing what to connect where and perhaps a socket part number would be useful. I have a whopping $8 burning a hole in my pocket! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:47 PM Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack I've renamed the subject of this thread back to High Power Servo Hack so lets not try to hijack it again (do not change the subject on these emails). Now back to the topic at hand. There's been discussion on making custom h-bridges in lieu of the commercial boards available. I've found the following integrated h- bridge modules currently listed on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/MPM3002-Motorola-H-BRIDGE-MOSFET-POWER-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200308339465QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 http://cgi.ebay.com/1ea-ST-L6203-6203-Full-H-Bridge-Motor-DRIVER-IC_W0QQitemZ400020364797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 These are obsolescent out-of-production h-bridge modules (include all four driver FETS) that could be utilized (with a small amount of additional components) to drive external motors (up to the current rating of the module) and can be driven by the hacked servo. An interesting and current (in production) h-bridge device is the Infineon TLE5206-2 driver. This is a basic h-bridge driver that includes over amperage and temp sensing built-in and only requires one external capacitor. It can handle a continuous 5amps which should be plenty for a steering servo setup. DigiKey has these at under $8US in single quantities. http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/tle5206-2_20010619.pdf?folderId=db3a304412b407950112b43820d56a4afileId=db3a304412b407950112b438215b6a4b If you review the datasheets for these devices you will find all the info needed to utilize them in the hacked servo project under discussion. Steve Tyng --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Daimler tests
Looks nice, Chrys! Crazy how you manage to build your vehicles so fast! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 2:49 PM Subject: [TANKS] Daimler tests National Holiday here today and the Daimler was tested. The upper hull and turret are only painted with a Khaki primer. IT's kind of oversized for a 1:6th, and I doubt she'll ever be armed with a 0.40 marker, really, but the test results are as follows: 12 Kgrs heavy, 25 cm diam. wheels, two 18 V 960 DeWalt drills, plenty of torque and speed about 20 kms/h. Note that this grass is kind of slippery and still traction is perfect. WIth the 1:6th scale, 20 cm diam, wheels you'd have monster torque and the battling speed you need (though this can be adjusted on digital RCs). Enjoy! The desert Rat blends nicely with the landscape. http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s30/ChrysKane/DAIMLER%201%206TH/?action=viewcurrent=P3240220.flv http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s30/ChrysKane/DAIMLER%201%206TH/?action=viewcurrent=P3240221.flv more videos, with drfits, later. Chrys --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
Got the headers today! Thanks Frank! You were right about the spacing. As Ron pointed out, there is a tab on the signal side of the Futaba servo that keeps it from being inserted. I'll remove the tab today. I don't know if the pin arrangement is the same. Right now I can only assume that it is. The battery connection seems near enough right, the only real difference is that the retention clip arrangement seems to be backwards for the Vex. I'll update later. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Paul Hilton wrote: Maybe Frank, if the spacing is right. Servo cables (and probably the Vex splitter) use 0.100 pin spacing, which is one of the most common header spacing. If you need a couple headers, send me your snail mail address privately and I'll drop some in the mail today. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Vex signal splitter.
Just got my Vex signal splitter today. I'm not happy. The Vex servo's seem to have male plugs, unlike the Futaba servo's that have female ones. Help, guys. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter.
Maybe Frank, if the spacing is right. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 9:48 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Vex signal splitter. Paul Hilton wrote: Just got my Vex signal splitter today. I'm not happy. The Vex servo's seem to have male plugs, unlike the Futaba servo's that have female ones. Help, guys. Can you use a 3 pin header as a converter? Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Solid state relays.
So I was surfing ebay for SSR's and discovered that there are AC and DC types. I had expected there to be a difference between inputs, and assumed that when called out, that an AC or DC relay referred to the input. I am pretty familiar with the old school electro-mechanical relays and an AC or DC callout describes the operating coil. Seems this isn't so with SSR's. The very first ones that I actually read the tech sheets on can have an AC or DC input, the output is described as AC only. Can an AC SSR be used for DC outputs? Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] A bit of progress.
My Sabertooth 2x25 arrived in the mail yesterday. I'll try to test it out with my newly completed motor/transmission assembly by this weekend. I'm still not sure if I'll go for wheeled or tracked mode on the BT-7 yet. Both present problems. Tracks might be a bit easier, if I go for wheels I'll have to drive the rear wheels and build a monster servo to steer with. The tracks, as I see them now, will involve drilling and tapping several hundred small holes. Oy, vey. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Transmission
I wonder if one of these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXTZH8P=7 would work for a single, non-reversing motor. I still have that Kollmorgen! Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Is this a good deal?
True, Derek. I missed the $9.99 boat myself. I picked the two that I have up from Ebay for $22. There are a LOT of these things out there. http://cgi.ebay.com/VEX-ROBOTICS-TRANSMITTER-AND-RECEIVER-ADDS-A-2ND-USER_W0QQitemZ220374695682QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220374695682_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 Crystals can also be had for cheap. They are a little thick and clunky (the transmitters), but are solid and well made. The 5th and 6th channels are on the bottom and consist of high/low buttons that can be used trigger-like with no mods. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 12:04 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Is this a good deal? I looked on the website folks were getting the VEX's and I think they are sold out. The part number posted no longer shows up and a search on VEX yielded nothing. Derek On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 10:56 AM, George MacGillis tinsmi...@gmail.com wrote: Or how about the Vex, So here is the break down of cost (Vex Radio $10.) (Crystal kit A $2.81) (Signal Splitter $23.91) Total $36.72 not counting shipping, and you still have money left over for servos. George MacGillis USCG ret. Portland, OR tinsmi...@gmail.com PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442 08' Harley Ultra Classic --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx
George, one thing you might could do with your extra A kits, you could replace the crystals with ones for frequencies that you don't have. Paul H. - Original Message - From: George MacGillis To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 2:53 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx You can also buy Crystal sets for the VEX on Ebay. I have no idea what I'm going to do with 6 kit A crystal sets, but I also have 2 splitters. I got the crystals for $8. delivered. Now that I have the radio, all I need is to figure out how to build a tank. And then after I do, who will I battle with? I live in Portland, OR. George On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:07 PM, Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com wrote: Also, through searching for cheap VEX things that may be useful, I've found that there is a 2.4GHz add on for the transmitter planned. I've found nothing on prices, though. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 1:20 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx Now that's a good call, George. Not being familiar with VEX, I had no idea such a thing existed. I have a VEX receiver, so I would just need the signal splitter and a few extra crystal sets. Here is a linky for everyone else: http://www.vexrobotics.com/vex-robotics-signal-splitter.shtml Paul H. - Original Message - From: George MacGillis To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:36 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx Why no just use the Vex receiver, $30. from them and then everything works right. I bought the Signal Splitter from the also and everything will be going in a Panther I'm building. On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Ron sailma...@comcast.net wrote: I have successfully used this receiver in a robot with a VEX transmitter. The VEX crystals do not fit this receiver, so you will have to but receiver crystals from the same location. Here is the URL: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GWR6NII75F.html Ron Paul Hilton wrote: So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought? Seems like all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones anyway. Paul H. PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442 08' Harley Ultra Classic -- George MacGillis USCG ret. Portland, OR tinsmi...@gmail.com PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442 08' Harley Ultra Classic --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Stick ratchet.
I'm going to disassemble one of the VEX transmitters I have to see if something like this: http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?I=HRCM8314P=0 can be added. I suspect that the joysticks are standard and only lack the spring. I'll take a look. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx
Yup, there is always a group of folks fiddling with things somewhere, just got to find them! Thanks, Andy! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Andy Schwartz To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:33 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx Guys I cant stress this enough. Everything your trying to discover has already been covered at the Vex Modders Yahoo group: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/VEX_Modders/ You can save yourselves a lot of time by joining up and doing some reading there. Andy - Original Message - From: George MacGillis To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:09 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx OK, Well I took one apart. Not easy to do, anyway inside is a crystal soldered onto a pair of pins. No reason why you couldn't do the same thing with another crystal. The one I took apart was the 89 that came with the transmitter. -- George MacGillis USCG ret. Portland, OR tinsmi...@gmail.com PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442 08' Harley Ultra Classic --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] VEX compatible Rx
So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought? Seems like all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones anyway. Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx
Now that's a good call, George. Not being familiar with VEX, I had no idea such a thing existed. I have a VEX receiver, so I would just need the signal splitter and a few extra crystal sets. Here is a linky for everyone else: http://www.vexrobotics.com/vex-robotics-signal-splitter.shtml Paul H. - Original Message - From: George MacGillis To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, March 09, 2009 5:36 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: VEX compatible Rx Why no just use the Vex receiver, $30. from them and then everything works right. I bought the Signal Splitter from the also and everything will be going in a Panther I'm building. On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Ron sailma...@comcast.net wrote: I have successfully used this receiver in a robot with a VEX transmitter. The VEX crystals do not fit this receiver, so you will have to but receiver crystals from the same location. Here is the URL: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GWR6NII75F.html Ron Paul Hilton wrote: So, does anyone have a source for 75MHz receivers that are compatible with those VEX transmitters everyone seems to have bought? Seems like all the available R127DF Futabas have been snatched up, the 75MHz ones anyway. Paul H. PATRIOT GUARD RIDERS #106442 08' Harley Ultra Classic --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
Steve, The SSR option looks quite interesting. How would this be coupled with the hacked servo? I've only seen schematics for H-bridges, how do they interconnect? I may in fact go with the commercial H-bridge. At best I would save $20 building a MOSFET H-bridge, even less building one using SSRs. We'll see. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
OK Steve, sometimes I'm a bit 'thick when it comes to electronics. I have zero experience with H-bridges and MOSFETs in general. Are you saying that this will do the job? http://130.94.182.150/servo.jpg Seems vastly overpowered for my app, but I'll give it a go. I assume that the .2 beside the capacitor is .2 micro farads. I also wonder about substitutions for the MOSFETs. If I used smaller MOSFETs, would it all still work? What about 2 N-channel and 2 P-channel, rather than 2 and 4? And what of voltage, is this not an issue? Seems kind of important to me. And why build a 38 amp H-bridge, then call out three good gearmotors for steering servos none of which draws more than 750 mA, like these guys have done? Seems like a bit of overkill. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:15 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack Paul, The Pololu board would not work to amplify the current capability of a standard r/c servo. The Pololu board is a bit to intelligent in that it has it's own processing capability and determines motor speed and direction via separate PWM and direction signals. Though the Pololu board has an h-bridge the board itself is not controlled like a typical h-bridge circuit. It is meant to be controlled be a microprocessor and not as something as crude as a hacked hobby servo. The hack we are discussing replaces the internal and very basic h- bridge circuit of the servo with an external higher capacity circuit. This h-bridge circuit requires a PWM speed signal on one of either two inputs unlike the Pololu board which has only one input for the PWM speed signal and a second to determine direction. Simple h-bridge boards a few and far between. The Tecel was one, RobotPower simple h-bridge is the only other commercial h-bridge that I can recall offhand. Most servo hacks off this type I've read about usually involves making a custom h-bridge board, which actually isn't very difficult to do. Here's a link for one such project. http://130.94.182.150/mowers.htm (scroll down to CONVERTING STANDARD R/C SERVOS INTO MONSTER SERVOS) Steve Tyng --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
Steve, you must have been reading my mind. I was just thinking about a solution for the BT-7's steering. Have you tried this? Seems like a good choice for large wheeled vehicles! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:03 AM Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack Here's an interesting article on modifying a standard servo to drive an external gearmotor. Basically the geartrain is removed from the servo which is then used as a position sensor for the gearmotor. The servo electronics are used to drive an offboard h-bridge. http://www.fieroaddiction.com/servo.html An h-bridge that would work well with this setup (the Tecel D200 referenced doesn't appear to be available anymore). http://www.robotpower.com/products/simple-h_info.html Steve Tyng --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack
Thanks Steve, I have a pair of these: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-316/12VDC-SUNROOF-MOTOR/1.html that I may be able to adapt, the shafts are a bit on the short side but I may be able to stick a slotted arm on. If not, I'll look at the 24V Mabuchi gearmotor you have listed. I also wonder if there might be a cheaper alternative to the motor controller you mention. One might be: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/755 I'm sure that if I look hard enough, I could find others. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 12:54 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack Paul, I have not personally tried this yet but I see no reason why it will not work well. Some possible gearmotors for steering our armoured cars could be: http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981item=5-1634catname=electric http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981item=5-1664catname=electric http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981item=5-1257catname=electric http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981item=5-1685catname=electric http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009022709083981item=5-1693catname=electric PF, The Tecel board seams to be no longer available that's why I listed the Robot-Power alternative. I've spoken with the owner of Robot Power and he stated that his Simple H-Bridge is being used to make high power servos by others. Steve Tyng On Feb 27, 11:55 am, pixelFiend pxfi...@gmail.com wrote: I've been wanting to do this as well for a project. Every time I look into it however, I keep running up against the Tecel website, which turns up an access forbidden message on the D200. I make a note to call or look into it further, then other things come up. I have several motors I could use for this— does anyone have any info on Tecel? Are they still a going concern, or have you bought from them? PF On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 11:38 AM, Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com wrote: Steve, you must have been reading my mind. I was just thinking about a solution for the BT-7's steering. Have you tried this? Seems like a good choice for large wheeled vehicles! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:03 AM Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack Here's an interesting article on modifying a standard servo to drive an external gearmotor. Basically the geartrain is removed from the servo which is then used as a position sensor for the gearmotor. The servo electronics are used to drive an offboard h-bridge. http://www.fieroaddiction.com/servo.html An h-bridge that would work well with this setup (the Tecel D200 referenced doesn't appear to be available anymore). http://www.robotpower.com/products/simple-h_info.html Steve Tyng -- PF astromechbuilder.com astromechfactory.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question
Well Chris, I've found that I have many of the components needed for a spin caster already. About all I lack are the motor and speed controller. So, in light of this revelation, I'm going to build a spin caster. Here are a few of the things I've been looking at: http://www.geocities.com/eastpac01/index.html http://www.gizmology.net/stovetop.htm http://www.hobbycast.net/video.htm http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Stories/030.1/index.html http://www.boatmodelling.com/content/view/57/44/lang,en/ http://www.smooth-on.com/search.php?zoom_query=molds http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/links.html http://www.smooth-on.com/gallery.php?galleryid=424 http://www.metalcastingzone.com/general-casting-videos/ http://130.94.182.150/foundry.htm http://www.tekcast.com/index.php?cPath=16gclid=CJfRtty86pgCFSPaDAodR3wQ1w http://www.myhomefoundry.com/ezine/32June_06.html http://theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/050/index.html http://www.mcmaster.com/#9069k2/=ohk2m There are more, many more in fact. The first is the most important to me. A few of the others pertain mainly to casting in resin, but show mold (mould) construction as being fairly straight forward. My goal is to construct a workable set of BT-7 tracks from tin or zinc alloy, zinc being the better choice. Although it melts at a higher temp, some zinc alloys can be nearly as strong as cast iron. It's also much cheaper. Paul H. - Original Message - From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 3:12 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question In a message dated 2/18/2009 10:42:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, phil...@defnet.com writes: One day, I would like to give one of these a go: http://www.granthams.com/Spincast/ Gonna stick with gravity for now. Not ready for another project just now. Paul H. you don't have to get that fancy if you want one. you can make one simpler than that. pretty much make one like an upright disc sander, but just secure your molds to the disc rather than sand paper. so build it onto a bench. and for a splat shield, an old cardboard box will do, just cut out the top and bottom of the box and set it over the spinner, give the motor some juice for a second or two (just to get it spinning), then pour Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Casting treads question
One day, I would like to give one of these a go: http://www.granthams.com/Spincast/ Gonna stick with gravity for now. Not ready for another project just now. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Retired Rider tinsmi...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 6:19 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Casting treads question I would also like to know about the mold your going to use for the treads, I cast items using Lead Free Pewter. And I mix in pure tin to make it a bit harder. Only problem I have is not being able to make the mold, maainly because I don't know how! The Tin will be harder then the zinc and will hold up better. George On Feb 17, 1:49 pm, Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com wrote: I'm going to try tin alloy. Perhaps later I'll give zinc a try. Paul H. - Original Message - From: AES To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:37 PM Subject: [TANKS] Casting treads question What is the recomended material to cast treads from? Thanks Andy--- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Casting treads question
I'm going to try tin alloy. Perhaps later I'll give zinc a try. Paul H. - Original Message - From: AES To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:37 PM Subject: [TANKS] Casting treads question What is the recomended material to cast treads from? Thanks Andy-- --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: 0.40s?
Sure. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 4:28 PM Subject: [TANKS] 0.40s? Anybody out there willing to ship me 0.40 caliper paint later in March? about 2000 of them? Thanks, Chrys --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts
Yup, slip rings are expensive. I've built a fair alternative using four ball bearing assemblies, two for each circuit. Joe Sommer proposed using copper clad board etched in a circular pattern, coupled with carbon motor brushes. Of late I have been eyeballing a toy that my daughter has. It's a ray gun with several LED's on a rotating head. In my mind, it must have some manner of slip ring assembly. If only I can spirit the thing away without her noticing. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Andy Schwartz andyman61...@yahoo.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 8:22 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts We have explored this idea several times for our R2D2 robots. About once a year someone does a group buy of Slip rings which brings the price down to about $50 for a 24 wire slip ring. A low cost alternative is to use the connectors for a headphone jack. Andy - Original Message - From: HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:54 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts Yes it is called a slip ring, and they are expensive. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania
Yup, that is the one at Aberdeen. At least that is the one I saw at Aberdeen, there may be more than one. This one I actually touched. One of my ANCOC classmates did a history paper on it, I helped him find it. I'm not sure about the gun. I am sure the vehicle I saw was identified as an M-18, not a T-87 or T-88 as the up gunned vehicle would have been. Still a very interesting vehicle. Paul H. - Original Message - From: SmithD smit...@verizon.net To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 12:46 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania That looks like the one at Aberdeen. It has a 105mm howitzer. The correct gun is a high velocity 76mm (76.5?). They tested the 105mm but it shook the tank to much for service. Less than 20 tons, 400+ h.p.,torsion bar suspension, hydraulic transmission. The luxury sports car of the tank world . D. Smith - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos xchr...@otenet.gr To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 10:29 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania The Hellcat would also be a simple US beast to replicate in 1:6th. Attached. Too bad I have 3 tanks and markers to maintain. Too many tanks and little time. C No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.14/1920 - Release Date: 1/27/2009 6:15 PM --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter store!
Good find Chrys, they even have a 1/24th scale KV2! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos xchr...@otenet.gr To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 1:39 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Check out www.goflyheli.com, Your one stop RC helicopter store! If you're looking for 1/16 tanks try this: http://www.bananahobby.com/electric-rc-tanks--airsoft-battle-tanks.html Very good prices for the quality you get. C --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away
Sad day indeed. I enjoyed the episode of Tank Overhaul depicting the restoration of his Panther. I hope the collection remains intact, though I don't know how it would. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Gregory Pwneror To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the Littlefield military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of January. Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles including a Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII German pieces of armour. I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities. I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know. -Gregory --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away
For those that haven't heard of Jacques Littlefield, here is a linky: http://www.mishalov.com/littlefield-6jan07/ Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:44 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away Sad day indeed. I enjoyed the episode of Tank Overhaul depicting the restoration of his Panther. I hope the collection remains intact, though I don't know how it would. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Gregory Pwneror To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the Littlefield military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of January. Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles including a Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII German pieces of armour. I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities. I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know. -Gregory --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away
Not sure, Tom. It could have been, Mr. Littlefield sure had a great garage, and a full maintenance staff to boot. Certainly a place that I would have liked to visit. I had sent him several e-mails with no reply. I had often wondered if he was ill. Hell, even APG replied to my requests. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Thomas Lum To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 1:34 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away Isn't his place where Mythbusters used the two tanks to pull apart the two phone books laced together? I wondered who had that awesome of a garage Tom On Jan 12, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Paul Hilton wrote: For those that haven't heard of Jacques Littlefield, here is a linky: http://www.mishalov.com/littlefield-6jan07/ Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:44 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away Sad day indeed. I enjoyed the episode of Tank Overhaul depicting the restoration of his Panther. I hope the collection remains intact, though I don't know how it would. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Gregory Pwneror To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the Littlefield military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of January. Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles including a Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII German pieces of armour. I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities. I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know. -Gregory --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Doug, I used Styrofoam covered in aluminum foil for the BT-7 turret. I still have the form. It was constructed from layers of Styrofoam. Hard templates were used for guiding a bread knife to cut the conical shape. I used a positive mold method. The form was made a bit smaller than the finished product and served only to provide a general shape. Layers of fiberglass cloth and mat were then applied to the outside surface. Any imperfections can be sanded and refilled. This is the cheapest method that I could think of for an irregularly shaped turret. A lost foam method might work well for a post WWII American tank like the M-26 Pershing with an irregular, rounded shape and prominent overhang. In this method you would build your fiberglass shell over your foam core, then melt it out in an oven. Of course this would be a one off mold, but how many turrets of the same type would you want? Paul H. - Original Message - From: Doug Conn To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:36 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas What material is a good choice ? I don't think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I'd like a mold that survives more than one use. Thanks for the help. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:22 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~--- inline: image003.jpg
[TANKS] Re: M01's - battery current
Here is another link, more info related: http://www.austrol.com.au/index.cfm?menukey=125 Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: M01's - battery current
I had to look these things up. I know very little about new battery tech and was wondering about cost vs service life. I found this: http://www.instructables.com/community/LiFePo4-batteries/ A pair of 20Ah 12v SLAs would cost about $100 plus postage, more or less. One 24v 20Ah LiFePO4 battery might be had for about $200, more or less. If it lasts twice as long Perhaps the added advantages of size, weight etc. might then be worth the initial high cost. A faster charge rate might also be an advantage, I'll keep looking for more info. I also like the bit about them being assembled from individual cells. This might lend itself pretty handily to assembly of custom packs from surplus cells. Imagine adding just enough cells to fill the space used by conventional SLAs, an Ah rating of 30 or more might be nice. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Phil sasquevane...@aol.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 11:42 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: M01's - battery current I've just checked on ebay- they cost £125 to over £200 from China. Still, who needs to eat? Phil On Jan 7, 3:55 pm, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos xchr...@otenet.gr wrote: What would the price of this Li 24v 20ah battery be? Chrys - Original Message - From: Modena b...@holnet.net To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 6:08 AM Subject: [TANKS] M01's - battery current With twin M01's what sort of continuous current draw do I need to allow for in my battery system? I am thinking of buying a 24v 20ah Lithium, and adding another one later if run-time is not acceptable. The ones I have looked at are these kinds of specs: Voltage: 24 Volts Capacity: 20 Amp Hours Dimension: 70 x 180 x 280 mm Weight: 6.30 kg Charging Voltage: 31 Volts Charging Current: 5 Amps Standard Charging Current: 1.5 Amps, 10 Hours Quick Charging Current: 3 Amps, 5 Hours Rated Discharging Current: 20 Amps Max Continuous Discharging Current: 40 Amps Max Discharging Current (Peak): 60 Amps Amperage Cut-off Protection: 40 Amps would this be suitable? __ NOD32 3434 (20080911) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Throwing a track
I would simply try what you've got, Steven. In looking at pics of actual Sherman tracks, the guide teeth look pretty much like what you have. As for slack track configurations, most tend to use longer guide teeth. In Christie system, the guide teeth are also what drives the track, sort of a roller chain and sprocket in reverse with the rollers on the sprocket and the teeth on the chain. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Crooks, Steven M steven.cro...@usoncology.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 8:35 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Throwing a track At the moment I'm using hand built tracks with side links: So the sprockets engage each link on the side. I notice some have very taught tracks (like Steve Tyngs tread wheels) And some are slack tracks, like the Bt-7 Steven C -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:16 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: Throwing a track Crooks, Steven M wrote: What is it that causes tracks to be thrown? Are the road wheels immediately adjacent feeding the idlers/sprocket That are most important? Is it the track design? How do you make a track and running gear arrangement that doesn't get thrown (much) ? What type of track and drive wheels are you using? Frank P. The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are confidential, possibly privileged and intended for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate, retain or otherwise use this message. If received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete this message without disclosing its contents to anyone. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Track Pads
Where I work, we use sheet rubber as gasket material for large hydraulic oil tanks. To get an evenly sized hole for studs or screws, I use a homemade hole punch made from a sharpened piece of hydraulic tubing (my employer is too cheap to buy a set of hole punches). I suppose the same method could be used for cutting an odd shaped pad from the same material. If you have any metalworking skills, or know someone who does, it would be a small matter to build a simple die to do the cutting. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Crooks, Steven M To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 2:33 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads I was thinking (once) of using car tyres, cut up with a jigsaw. Would be very messy cutting the rubber though Would be pretty tough, and an old one would't be too expensive. -- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Don Shankin Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 1:09 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads Seems like that may be a little thin to me, but I'm not really sure what others are using, so I could be way off On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 10:18 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/4/2009 6:54:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com writes: How would plastic pads cope. why not just use a inner tube from a bike and cut that up? (they do still make bikes right?) Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. -- -- Donald Shankin Computer Engineering Undergrad Blue Marble Security Member IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter CAEL Partner (507) 301-2499 dtsha...@mtu.edu dshan...@gmail.com -- The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are confidential, possibly privileged and intended for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate, retain or otherwise use this message. If received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete this message without disclosing its contents to anyone. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: smallest tank
Pay attention to what this man says! I had to resort to using a .40 caliber gun myself in the BT-7. With a lot of trimming and a fair amount of cussing I managed to fit a .68 caliber gun in the turret but had no room for ammunition! Also, stay away from paintballs of mixed colors. I mean several different colors of paintballs in one batch. I think the mind has a hard time recognizing random colors. For me, a single color that contrasts well works much better. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Pureteenlard pureteenl...@hotmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 10:28 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: smallest tank Well the smallest proper tank with a turret in the hobby is probably the ex-Neil Rochford M22 Locust (T055 - http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T055/ ) but the diminutive nature of the beast leads to some real problems when it comes to fitting a paintball gun. A regular .68 calibre gun just won't fit. The smaller calibre guns (.40, .43 and .50) are often difficult to get and ammunition can be scarce too. The smaller balls are difficult to see in flight so it's difficult to correct your aim and when they do hit they are less likely to burst than a full calibre ball. If at all possible, I would recommend making a regular sized tank (whatever THAT is!) with a nice big turret. On Jan 2, 2:35 am, WWIIFanatic wwii1...@hotmail.com wrote: i was wondering if anyone could find a smaller tank than the Polish TKD armed with something larger than a machine gun. I think smaller tanks have the advantage even though they take less hits and carry less ammo. I'll never be able to make one but i can always bounce ideas around. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Motors!!!
Chris, You may find this helpful: http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2206 Lots of identification info and help with repair parts. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Chris Malton chr...@cjsoftuk.dyndns.org To: RC Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:19 AM Subject: [TANKS] Motors!!! Hi All, Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors. £27 on eBay for the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep. They look good for the Challenger, and we'll see how well they perform when I get around to sorting out the tracks and motor control. Hopefully there will be a transition to T status in the next 6 months. Chris --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Resurrecting my Lost Plans
Check out these: http://www.eland.org.uk/pages/Misc/cadnotes.html There may be a program here that suits you. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 11:02 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Resurrecting my Lost Plans I've been thinking about David: http://www.david-laserscanner.com/ It can create decent enough 3D models, but I don't have a CAD program so things sort of fall down at that point. On Wed, Dec 24, 2008 at 10:35 AM, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: ...I have a 3D scanner here to get the model into my CAD package... Unfortunately I don't have any sort of computer program like that, but I enjoy using the Ye Olde Tyme drafting technique. I hope your plans work for you Joules. I'm using these plans: http://www.gizmology.net/tanks.htm; Those plans may be useful, but again that is the 105mm Sherman and it has the wrong turret. I have the same plans in the box with the 1/72 Sherman. Thanks for the sugggestions. I just came across a 1/35 (maybe 1/48...) M4A3 at Hobbiddy Lobbiddy yesterday I may purchase. On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 6:20 PM, Joules joule...@gmail.com wrote: Mike, very interesting, I am about to start work on a paintball Sherman, I just got a 1/76 airfix kit for one as I have a 3D scanner here to get the model into my CAD package. I will then be looking at routing out a simplified chassis and shell from ply wood sheet. Joules -- -Mike Måne @ http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's
If you have Windows Vista, right click anywhere on the page, then find page info in the dropdown box. Click on page info and then find translate page into English. Click on translate page into English and then you too can read Cantonese or Mandarin (aka Chinese). Works for most other major languages as well. I don't know if it is available in other versions of Windows. I used this tool quite a lot researching Soviet tanks on the web browser Colossus. Have fun with it. Paul H. - Original Message - From: callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 10:32 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's Can anyone here actually read chinese. On Dec 18, 5:15 pm, Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com wrote: You guys might get a kick out of this. I just bought two canary yellow H3 Hummers from wally world. Not sure if I'll be able to use them, seem kind of small. The price was right $35, and there was onlt two left. Maybe, after lots of paint and a few add-ons, I'll be able to pass one off as one of these: http://auto.tom.com/drive/dfhm.html Seems fitting as they were made in china. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Mike Måne To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 7:14 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's sorry, here are the pictures On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 6:14 PM, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: I haven't been on the Group lately, but seeing the title Humvee I couldn't resist. First of all, the $70 hummer that Paul uploaded from Walmart is the H3. It's my personal least favourite because its narrow shape and body is noticeably similar to the Jeep. However, it might not be too difficult to convert the body to the H-1 military vehicle. After all, it has a fairly simple geometry. Concerning its armament, one could easily build a trainable CROW turret. Also, as most HMMWV's, one could attach a TOW launcher. Attached are a couple photos. On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 1:38 PM, HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net wrote: Here is a 1/6th humvee, the military one. The body looks accurate, but it still doesn't look like the real thing because the body is too high above the wheels. The tires aren't accurate either, but they probably have better traction than scale tires. http://store.cubeberry.com/servlet/Detail?no=52 -- -Mike Måne @ http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com --- - --- - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: rotomolded plastic Panther hull and turret
I would guess that it's (GRP) this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass-reinforced_plastic I would also guess the the main advantage of rotomolding would be the hollow core. I'm not sure that there is any advantage other than that. Perhaps speed and repeatability. I kind of like the method I used for the BT-7 turret shell. I covered a styrofoam core with aluminum foil and applied fiberglass and resin to the outside of it. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 8:53 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: rotomolded plastic Panther hull and turret What is GRP ? - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris. b Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 8:45 PM To: R/C Tank Combat Subject: [TANKS] Re: rotomolded plastic Panther hull and turret does rotomolding have any advantages? Why not just use GRP? Seems like its extra effort for similar results. Chris. b On Dec 15, 11:22 am, jvragu47 jpl...@yahoo.com wrote: On Dec 14, 4:28 pm, Chris Malton chr...@cmalton.me.uk wrote: Money to be made? Money to be spent, maybe, but money to be made!? Since when did we ever make any money battling these monsters? Chris Chris, We do not provide info nor stats and the side wagers at our battles since this is strictly a gentlemens sport. John laying 3 to 1 on scoring 1st kill in spring Pittelli --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: rotomolded plastic Panther hull and turret
Hah! No, not worried about shorts. Resin doesn't like sticking to the aluminum. Mostly it stays on the form. Any remaining on the inside is easily peeled off. The only parts that give me fits are areas of the foil that are folded ofer that I've missed, thy have to be chipped off. Paul H. - Original Message - From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 9:23 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: rotomolded plastic Panther hull and turret In a message dated 12/14/2008 9:21:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, phil...@defnet.com writes: I would guess that it's (GRP) this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass-reinforced_plastic I would also guess the the main advantage of rotomolding would be the hollow core. I'm not sure that there is any advantage other than that. Perhaps speed and repeatability. I kind of like the method I used for the BT-7 turret shell. I covered a styrofoam core with aluminum foil and applied fiberglass and resin to the outside of it. Paul H. well i'd be, i guessed right i was told once before to use latex paint over the finished foam core. not too worried about having any shorts in the turret? Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Intro and first Questions
Welcome! Ditto what everyone else has already said. I would also go for the Jagdtiger. MUCH simpler. No turret to mess around with. A Jagdpanther would also be nice! You may consider the C6C as a first controller. Very simple and quite inexpensive. Good luck! Paul H. - Original Message - From: tank.hunte...@gmail.com To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 1:49 PM Subject: [TANKS] Intro and first Questions Good Day to you all, I have been a long time lurker and have finally taken the first step on to what seems an awesome path of tank building and simulated warfare. First I have never built an RC anything, but have always wanted to. I am an Architectural Modeler, in the Dallas Fort Worth area so the plans and the cad work will not be a problem. But as to finding parts, and what I am looking for, how do I program and set up the remote controller and such? I know these are very broad questions and they will become more focused as time goes on. I hope to build a Tiger I or a Jagdtiger. Engine - No clue Tracks - The treadmill method from the t-34 wip on the site Suspension - still haven't figured that out but was hoping to create shocks for it Chassis ply wood, with fiber glass turret (maybe) Right now i am hoping to just get a mobile tank.(gun work could come later) If you have any ideas or comments or know a better tank that would be suited for someone beginning this hobby feel free to let me know. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's
Could be, Clark. 21st could have made one, I didn't find one anywhere on the 'net. I did find this one: http://www.ultimatesoldier.net/reviews/hum-review.html I doubt that it could be had for 50 bucks. In any case I haven't seen anything military in 1/6th scale in Wally-World since joining this group, unless you count weapons sets. The largest military vehicles I've seen in department stores have been in 1/24th scale. I'll keep watching. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Clark Ward Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:04 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's The model you linked to is an RC model of the civilian Hummer H2, Paul. That's why it doesn't look like a Hum-Vee :) I thought that 21st Century made an honest-to-gosh HMMWV model at some point. -- ___ / |O| \ Clark in Georgia ###===### USMC M60A1 ###===### KI4GYT ###### --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's
Here is another that I'd forgotten about: http://www.geocities.com/elf1564/rubber.html This is more like the method that I'd described. Sad, the pics seem to be missing. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 1:40 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's I haven't fond that link yet! It was quite interesting. Thy guy drew the tire in cad, then went to the local college and asked them to create the part using a rapid prototyping machine. A mold was made from the prototype and the tire was vulcanized right onto an aluminum wheel. I'll keep looking. I did find this: http://www.oldweirdherald.com/scalestuff/onethreetwo/silicones/silicones.html Kind of simplistic, but simple ain't all bad! Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 1:32 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's Now that would be cool if you could find that link. No offense here, just realized that some people were talking about the H2 at Wally World and not the actual military H1 like mine. Just clarifying it. I believe the Titan motors from the Traxxas trucks would bolt right up to my Hummers since they work on the Stuarts. The pinion would have to be moved over, but that's not a big deal. Derek On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:50 AM, Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Derek, I didn't mean to cast doubt that you'd gotten your vehicles at Walmart. About four years ago, a friend of mine picked up one of those 1/9th scale Abrams for 20 bucks! I found a page once by a guy who formed his own military tread tires in 1/6th scale. I'll see if I can find it again. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 10:42 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's I guess I was confused. I did get my (2) 21st Century HMMVWs from Wally World for $50 bucks each, but that was a couple of years ago. Original retail on them was $199, but they were drastically marked down. At the time, they had a whole pallet of them left after the holidays. I just couldn't pass that deal up. I got a lot of funny looks from people in the checkout line since I had two of them piled into one cart. I made sure I bought them on different frequencies so I could run both of them at once. One of them is still sealed in the box, the other has had some mods done to it. They aren't bad vehicles, but unkempt grass is about the limit of their capabilities and even then it bogs down. A lot of that is due to the hardish rubber on the tires. Just doesn't lend itself to good traction. I have modified the wheels slightly to get more traction by removing some plastic around the hub. It makes the tires squat better and therefore creates more surface area for the tires to grip off road. It does however make the Hummer a little less stable on tarmac. More powerful motors could help it to, but I think that would cause the gearboxes to break. Found this on Wikipedia: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/18/Img_star-t.jpg I had to babysit one of these in Bosnia back in 1995. They were made by a company called California Microwave. Derek On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 8:32 AM, Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Could be, Clark. 21st could have made one, I didn't find one anywhere on the 'net. I did find this one: http://www.ultimatesoldier.net/reviews/hum-review.html I doubt that it could be had for 50 bucks. In any case I haven't seen anything military in 1/6th scale in Wally-World since joining this group, unless you count weapons sets. The largest military vehicles I've seen in department stores have been in 1/24th scale. I'll keep watching. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Clark Ward Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:04 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's The model you linked to is an RC model of the civilian Hummer H2, Paul. That's why it doesn't look like a Hum-Vee :) I thought that 21st Century made an honest-to-gosh HMMWV model at some point. -- ___ / |O| \ Clark in Georgia ###===### USMC M60A1 ###===### KI4GYT ###### --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Interesting motor on Ebay
That is interesting. Due to it being a fan motor, I would check it for an internal ground. Mounting may also be an issue. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Derek Engelhaupt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 7:02 PM Subject: [TANKS] Interesting motor on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=260330496076ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123 Looks like an EV Warrior, not sure how it would perform. Might be fun to play with. No association with the seller, yadda, yadda Derek --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's
No inner circle, Chrys. Just shopping at Walmart. Seems to be almost the last store in left in the U.S. I think this is what they're talking about: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10721499 I saw them on display as well. I didn't get one. Doesn't look anything like a HMMWV or humvee to me. Compare to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Mobility_Multipurpose_Wheeled_Vehicle The rear end looks a bit like an armored HMMWV, like the ones generals would ride around in whilst the rest of us cannon fodder would ride in M998 soft sided ones. The front end is all wrong, though. Perhaps with a good deal of chopping and a thick layer of camo paint. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 1:57 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's Just kidding Neil. They were buying 1:6 Humvees for $50 = 40 euros. What do you expect me to assume? There must have been an inner circle known in secret societies as: The Second List only zbear revealed their secrets. Chrys - Original Message - From: Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:51 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: HUMVEE's There is another list of an inner circle. It gives in depth advice - very esoteric stuff- and is gossiping. I know that for a fact. Chrys `I used to be on the other mail list.` What other mail list ? Neil R - Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam __ NOD32 3434 (20080911) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com __ NOD32 3434 (20080911) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping
You guys have got me thinking about homebuilt cnc routers. I was thinking about how to build my own track link masters for casting in zinc alloy. At first I thought that I would have to pay through the nose for a actual machinist to build them. I had also considered rapid prototyping or 3D printing. I like this idea better! A foot square machine would do fine. Something like this: http://www.hobbycnc.com/ Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:51 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping I've been reading the forums at mechmate and it seems a 5x5 sized unit is very doable. It might be interesting to make a flat pack tank. Sadly, it doesn't look like there is much price difference in the sizes. The big ticket items are the controllers and motors. On Sat, Nov 29, 2008 at 2:33 PM, Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This makes it even more interesting! I hadn't thought of using the router for this purpose. Aluminum molds would work well for resin casting. Aluminum masters could be cut for making molds of high temp silicon for casting in zinc or tin alloys. I suppose a smaller machine could be built Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping This might be interesting as well. Didn't look at it real close, still it caught my interest. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 7:46 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping Would you believe they have a Waterjet cutter in our manufacturing department, but they deem making toy tanks as being a waste of resources? Philistines. To get to the point of this resurrection, I've been looking at DIY CNC machines and I have found the Mechmate http://www.mechmate.com Free plans to download. Some weird clauses in the EULA, but the design looks decent, and will be sturdier and more professional looking then other plans that use MDF. On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 10:28 AM, Aahz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Michael Clark wrote: It looks like it is the Backend bit of a CNC machine. You supply the frontend Price seems to be about 12 grand. I wonder if just upgrading to a laser cutter wouldn't be a better choice. Considering the quantity of parts we might need as a whole I think we would be better served by finding a Tech college nearby and getting them to use their waterjet. For those of you in the Pacific Northwest that would be Vashon Technical. Aahz. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping
I might, at some point, build a large CNC machine to cut out flat panels. My goal is to be able to form masters for casting track links. Other objects may follow. I doubt that I would need a tool with a shaft diameter larger than 1/8. I agree that the Dremel might not hold up, but it is cheap enough to try. I won't use MDF. I don't plan to use the vacuum work holding biz. I ordered the plans fot the wood router from Hobbycnc as a general guideline. The size of the machine will be changed. The materials will be changed. The MDF will be replaced with steel for the base and aluminum for most everything else including the gantry. The method of power transmission might change as well. I suspect that acme lead screws will be specified in the plans. I have a ball screw that would work well for the Z axis as well as a linear bearing to mount the Dremel on. I may also replace the acme screws on the X and Y axes with a timing belt drive. I have also considered linear actuators. As for overdoing No matter the size of the machine, the controls are going to be the same. The most expensive bits are the stepper or servo motors and their drivers and the ball screws (if you use them). The larger the tool (dremel vs. wood router) the larger the stepper or servo motors. The larger the work area, the longer the ball screws. Small is cheap(ish). I figure, if I can get this to work in a small scale, I can build a larger machine later, say 4' x 8' instead of 18 x 18. I can use the same computer and program for sure and perhaps the same machine controls. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 1:34 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping http://www.rockcliffmachine.com/ Rockcliff is another one that has several plans, most are made of MDF and use a Dremel like tool. I'd be worried about the accuracy because my Dremel doesn't seem to be designed for this sort of use. I'm reall close to deciding on the Rockcliff, but if something is worth doing, it is worth overdoing. Plus I think a larger tool would be more handy in the long run for my other wood working projects. The real draw for me is the Mechmate. I'd like to CNC mount my router. Of all the tools I have, it is the only one that truly scares me. It spins at 40,000 RPM, it is loud, heavy, unweildy and at night, it tells me to do things. Bad Things. On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 12:26 PM, Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You guys have got me thinking about homebuilt cnc routers. I was thinking about how to build my own track link masters for casting in zinc alloy. At first I thought that I would have to pay through the nose for a actual machinist to build them. I had also considered rapid prototyping or 3D printing. I like this idea better! A foot square machine would do fine. Something like this: http://www.hobbycnc.com/ Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:51 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping I've been reading the forums at mechmate and it seems a 5x5 sized unit is very doable. It might be interesting to make a flat pack tank. Sadly, it doesn't look like there is much price difference in the sizes. The big ticket items are the controllers and motors. On Sat, Nov 29, 2008 at 2:33 PM, Paul Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This makes it even more interesting! I hadn't thought of using the router for this purpose. Aluminum molds would work well for resin casting. Aluminum masters could be cut for making molds of high temp silicon for casting in zinc or tin alloys. I suppose a smaller machine could be built Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping This might be interesting as well. Didn't look at it real close, still it caught my interest. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 7:46 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping Would you believe they have a Waterjet cutter in our manufacturing department, but they deem making toy tanks as being a waste of resources? Philistines. To get to the point of this resurrection, I've been looking at DIY CNC machines and I have found the Mechmate http://www.mechmate.com Free plans to download. Some weird clauses in the EULA, but the design looks decent, and will be sturdier and more professional looking then other plans that use MDF. On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 10:28 AM, Aahz
{Disarmed} Re: [TANKS] Re: Gluing PVC to metal
Chris, Sometimes I can get JB Weld to stick to things and sometimes I can't. RTV sticks to damned near everything. I've used it for thermesets, wood, metals, ceramics, glass. It even works on styrofoam! Surfaces need to be oil free and clean. It's also cheap, less than half the price of epoxies. It's flexible and doesn't hold paint well so it's no good for exposed seams. Good luck with the JB, great stuff if you can get it to stick. Paul H. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 6:47 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Gluing PVC to metal well, i hope JB weld works as that's what i grabbed at Home Depot today along with a length of 1 PVC pipe (just in cast i screw up this tank barrel's gluing) and another 1 coupler so i can try to make the flash bake in the next few days Chris, Odyssey Slipways -- Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping
This might be interesting as well. Didn't look at it real close, still it caught my interest. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 7:46 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping Would you believe they have a Waterjet cutter in our manufacturing department, but they deem making toy tanks as being a waste of resources? Philistines. To get to the point of this resurrection, I've been looking at DIY CNC machines and I have found the Mechmate http://www.mechmate.com Free plans to download. Some weird clauses in the EULA, but the design looks decent, and will be sturdier and more professional looking then other plans that use MDF. On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 10:28 AM, Aahz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Michael Clark wrote: It looks like it is the Backend bit of a CNC machine. You supply the frontend Price seems to be about 12 grand. I wonder if just upgrading to a laser cutter wouldn't be a better choice. Considering the quantity of parts we might need as a whole I think we would be better served by finding a Tech college nearby and getting them to use their waterjet. For those of you in the Pacific Northwest that would be Vashon Technical. Aahz. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping
This makes it even more interesting! I hadn't thought of using the router for this purpose. Aluminum molds would work well for resin casting. Aluminum masters could be cut for making molds of high temp silicon for casting in zinc or tin alloys. I suppose a smaller machine could be built Paul H. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping This might be interesting as well. Didn't look at it real close, still it caught my interest. Paul H. - Original Message - From: Michael Clark To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 7:46 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: Metal Shaping Would you believe they have a Waterjet cutter in our manufacturing department, but they deem making toy tanks as being a waste of resources? Philistines. To get to the point of this resurrection, I've been looking at DIY CNC machines and I have found the Mechmate http://www.mechmate.com Free plans to download. Some weird clauses in the EULA, but the design looks decent, and will be sturdier and more professional looking then other plans that use MDF. On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 10:28 AM, Aahz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Michael Clark wrote: It looks like it is the Backend bit of a CNC machine. You supply the frontend Price seems to be about 12 grand. I wonder if just upgrading to a laser cutter wouldn't be a better choice. Considering the quantity of parts we might need as a whole I think we would be better served by finding a Tech college nearby and getting them to use their waterjet. For those of you in the Pacific Northwest that would be Vashon Technical. Aahz. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
