[RCSE] Video, not soaring

2008-05-19 Thread Arne Ansper



Sorry, not soaring related, but captures the feeling of flying very well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rk81TsW9Xdg

Arne

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Re: [RCSE] 2.4 install how to?

2008-03-04 Thread Arne Ansper



On Mon, 3 Mar 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The obvious good location would be in the fin since they are usually
fiberglass above the stab. There is a limit to how long the aux reciever 
extension


There was a thread in RCGroups recently that showed how sattellite 
receivers were mounted at fin and at the wingtips.


It would be nice to have a plane with sattellite receivers preinstalled 
during manufacturing. Like in some high-end planes the wing servos are 
installed during the molding process.


regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Lithium Ion charging

2006-10-21 Thread Arne Ansper



On Sat, 21 Oct 2006, Martin Usher wrote:

Go to Target and buy an inverter for your car that will convert the 12v power 
to 120volt. Their price varies from $30 to  $50. Its better to get a larger 
than a smaller one (i.e. avoid the 100 watt one, go for a 200 or 400w one).


One must be careful with those inverters. The cheap units produce quite 
dirty AC (i.e. the signal is not sinus but contains lots of higher 
frequencies too). Impulse PSU-s (like those found in mobile phone or 
laptop chargers) can live with that. But if you have a PSU that contains 
large transformer it might cause problems because it overheats. I damaged 
the transformer of my charger using the cheap inverter. The transformer 
made chirping noices but I did not understood what's the problem before it 
went off. It took me more than 10 minutes to open the charger and the 
transformer was still too hot to touch. Fortunately only the thermo fuse 
inside the transformer needed replacment.


Since the LiPo charging is much simpler process than NiMH charging, there 
is not much difference between cheap and expensive chargers. So, I would 
get an entry level 12V dedicated LiPo charger.


regards,
Arne



Martin Usher

Bill Swingle wrote:

OK, hypothetically here.

Say I'm at the slope but my Lithium charger uses only 120V AC.

So, if I wanted to be reckless (go with me here), what can be done with a 
Nicad charger and how?


Bill Swingle

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[RCSE] Safe transport of planes in planes

2006-10-17 Thread Arne Ansper



Hi!

I was reading Bruce Schneiers fresh Crypto-Gram and found a very 
interesting article about how to transport expensive cameras in planes 
when the cameras must be checked in.


http://www.schneier.com/crypto-gram-0610.html

Read the article Expensive Cameras in Checked Luggage. Basically, when 
you put a small starter pistol into your plane case you can lock it down 
with non-TSA approved lock and the case gets extra tracked because they do 
not want to lose a weaponse case.


regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Stopwatch Recommendation

2006-10-17 Thread Arne Ansper



On Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Brian Molloy wrote:


I ordered one for handlaunch (use a standard stopwatch for thermal
duration), and just received mine in the mail yesterday.  Very, very
easy to operate.  For multiple DHLG flights you only have to hit one
button for each landing and relaunch (stores up to 100 flights).
You can review this data with another single button even while
timing the next flight(s).


Which model did you get? There seems to be many different ones.

regards,
Arne
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[RCSE] Video

2006-10-03 Thread Arne Ansper



Not very scale flying. But it circles nicely in the thermal :)

http://www.flightlevel350.com/Aircraft_Alenia_C-27_Spartan-Airline_Italy_-_Air_Force_Aviation_Video-2178.html

Arne

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Re: [RCSE] LSF discussion

2006-09-06 Thread Arne Ansper



On Wed, 6 Sep 2006, Ben Wilson wrote:

mean new people, but also some new ideas - and I'll give an ear to just 
about anyone who has an idea that might help me put more people in my club 
and more planes in the air.


(Young) people are unaware that such thing as R/C soaring exists. It might 
be worthwhile to show the cool side of this hobby to masses. Like get one 
of those nice videos Paul Naton and Dave Reese put out and show it on 
Discovery or some other appropriate channel. Or make a reality show where 
10 beautiful models learn to fly 10 beautiful models.


regards,
Arne

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[RCSE] World's Largest Bubble Dancer

2006-09-04 Thread Arne Ansper



Hi!

Spotted this in September issue of IEEE Spectrum:

http://home.cyber.ee/arne/bd.jpg

Arne
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[RCSE] Wing Failure

2006-08-30 Thread Arne Ansper



Sorry, no glider content - http://media.putfile.com/Wing-Failure

Arne
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Re: [RCSE] World Champs Update

2006-08-06 Thread Arne Ansper



On Thu, 3 Aug 2006, Jim McCarthy wrote:


I may have jumped the gun.  There should be one more round in junior and senior 
classes flown tomorrow am.  Keep your fingers crossed. Go Juniors!!


If you look at the starting lists they have starting lists for 10 rounds 
for juniors and 11 rounds for seniors. I'm not sure if they are supposed 
to go through all of them but the weather has been good, so I suppose 
there will be some more preliminary rounds tomorrow morning.


Arne
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Re: [RCSE] 220 nimh battery source

2006-06-30 Thread Arne Ansper




- Original Message - From: Tom Broeski [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Looking for a source for 1/2 AAA nimh HL battery packs


Hi Tom!

Fellow DLG-er is offering some nice, purpose built packs:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5586138postcount=1

regards,
Arne
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Re: A FREE PLANE!!! was Re: [RCSE] Beginner sailplane recommendations

2006-05-28 Thread Arne Ansper



On Sat, 27 May 2006, Bill Johns wrote:



On May 27, 2006, at 3:00 PM, Jim Laurel wrote:

  Years ago I would have
suggested a Highlander, but they are no more and there don't seem to
be any really credible (i.e., decent performing) foamies.


Speaking of Highlanders  That's what I learned flying a full house plane 
with.  I actually trashed one on a zoom launch into a stiff wind.  That's 
significant because they are nearly indestructible.  ;-)


Mark is going to make another production run of Highlanders soon. Check 
out: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516529 if you want to 
get one.


Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Re: Soaring V1 #7546

2006-04-30 Thread Arne Ansper



On Fri, 28 Apr 2006, Jeff Thompson wrote:

Case in point:  A couple of weeks ago I had to replace a compressor for a new 
Ductless-Split air conditioner (those little rectangular Japanese A/C's like 
Samsung, Mitsubishi, etc.)  Someone had cut the refrigerant lines in order to 
steal maybe $1 of copper, and the compressor continued to run without being 
cooled  oiled.  In short order the compressor burnt out and fouled with very 
smelly acid.  IMO that's what would happen with your window-unit vacuum pump.


The situation is little bit different whem you use the compressor for 
creating vacuum and not just let it run free.


If it runs, connected to nowhere (as in your case) it will overheat. If it 
is connected to vacuum bag it will evacuate all the air very quickly, 
become quiet and do not overheat.


If full vacuum is all you need (like in case of bagging the blue foam) 
then this compressor will work just fine running continously. If you bleed 
some air into the sucking side (intentionally in order to reduce the 
pressure or by leaking bag) then it will become hot and needs cooling fan.


Sometimes when I manage to get a perfectly sealed bag the compressor will 
be just slightly warm after running 24h.


It will mist some oil from the outlet side - but not very much. You should 
make sure that there is oil inside pump. When you turn pump upside down 
the oil will flow out. If you get new pump you normally do not know how 
it is handled, so it is best to add some new oil. I used cheapeast mineral 
oil for 4 stroke gasoline engines. First I added it too much so that pump 
did not even start. Poured some out until it started and kept like that.


regards,
Arne
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[RCSE] RDS pockets

2006-03-29 Thread Arne Ansper



Hi!

I'm building RDS for SuperGee wing and would like to know what others have 
been used for pocket material. I have one wing where I used some 
countertop material from furniture shop. After one year of heavy usage 
there is some slop near the neutral and it seems to be in the pocket.


I thought to lay up some unidirectional carbon and make the pocket from 
carbon laminate. But is the carbon good material for bearing surface? I'm 
little bit worried that it migth wear out. I thought about using thin 
Mylar to protect the carbon - it would also give very smooth surface. Do 
you think Mylar would be appropriate in this place?


regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Re: subscribing

2006-03-19 Thread Arne Ansper



On Fri, 17 Mar 2006, D.S. wrote:


Thanks for the info Phil. That doesn't work for me either. I did manage


My experience with soaring-request@airage.com processor is that it needs 
a valid command in the first line. I have a habit to start e-mails with 
few empty lines, so they look better in my mailer and have hard time 
remembering what to do, every time I need to contact list processor.


Arne
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[RCSE] TX battery - NiCd or NiMH?

2006-03-08 Thread Arne Ansper



Hi!

Must get new battery for TX. Current one is down to 500mAh (from 750mAh) 
and lasts only for 2.5 hours. I can get 1100 mAh NiCd or 1650 mAh NiMH 
(both Sanyo) at the same price. Which one is better for TX?


Arne
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Re: [RCSE] TX battery - NiCd or NiMH?

2006-03-08 Thread Arne Ansper



On Wed, 8 Mar 2006, Bill Swingle wrote:

Each will work fine for the TX. 
How will you charge it?


I have Reflex charger that does peak prediction (same chip that is inside 
Sirius chargers), but it will only output 650mA max. I've heard that NiMH 
cells do not like too low charging current and 650mA is almost 1/3C.



Do you tend to abbuse your batteries?


No.

regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Carbon Supra #48 flies - weight 61 oz !

2006-02-20 Thread Arne Ansper



On Fri, 17 Feb 2006, Michael Neverdosky wrote:


I think I got off by a power of ten so things are not as bad as my
numbers make it but the idea of checking to see what is really needed
so I can use enough wire without just throwing more wire at it is
sound.

Anybody know the full stall current draw of the popular servos?


Google for servomances. According to it maximum current for DS368 is 555 
mA.


Arne


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Re: [RCSE] The Supra is not SuperPlane!

2006-02-03 Thread Arne Ansper



On Thu, 2 Feb 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Also there is no town called Krypton in the current Cz  Republic, I google it
and found nothing.


Czech Republic is a nice place and home of many nice planes, but don't 
take the glory away from Ukrainians. The Supra is manufactured in Ukraina.


regards,
Arne

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Re: [RCSE] Re: Polyester and epoxy, how to get them to play nice together?

2005-11-08 Thread Arne Ansper



On Wed, 9 Nov 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Still looking for some rules of thumb regarding compatibility. Got a 20-year
old glass/glassed-wood fuse that, best guess, is polyester, and I may have to
do some minor repairs/filling on it here and there. I don't use stinky
polyester, the wife would never allow it, only epoxy resin, but, are there 
potential
problems mixing between the two?  Small repairs, filling, sanding, repainting.
What's the word?


Look here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431238 It can 
be done.


Arne
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[RCSE] Retro winch

2005-09-12 Thread Arne Ansper



http://nakotne.com/e107_plugins/kig_menu/index.php?view=imageimageId=795

The engine is from old Russian chainsaw Druzhba (Friendship).

regards,
Arne

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[RCSE] Radio pylons?

2005-08-29 Thread Arne Ansper



Hi!

How feasible would it be to replace the pylons that are used in F3B and 
F3F, with automated radio pylons? Are there any projects or attempts in 
this direction? Quick googling did not give any results.


I thought about system where each plane has a transmitter with unique code 
and at the pylon locations are highly directional receiver antennaes with 
3D polars that look like pancakes. When plane flies through the pancake 
the signal strength peaks and this is signalled back to pilot. What kind 
of antennae would give this kind of polar? What would be a reasonable 
maximum working distance for this kind of system?


regards,
Arne
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[RCSE] F3B pictures

2005-08-11 Thread Arne Ansper


Hi!

I had never seen a F3B competition before and since the WC was held so 
close I decided that this is a perfect oportunity to see what it is all 
about. I spent there four days (from Tuesday to Friday) and made more than 
1500 pictures. At the end of the second day I learned to use the camera to 
shoot the planes. Tha camera was Konica Minolta Dimage Z5 - not a SLR, but 
quite usable if you are careful. It has 12x optical zoom that brings the 
planes to the shooting range at the last 1/3 of the distance run. It also 
has progressive and continuous shooting modes that are perfect for 
capturing the launches.


The weather was good most of the time - at least for spectators :) Most of 
the time, the wind was blowing perpendicular to the winchlines, so the 
launches were very interesting to watch, with planes turning away right 
after the launch and going sometimes straight over your head at low 
height, full winch power. The competition was held on a working airfield, 
so there were pauses from time-to-time to let the big planes land and 
take-off. The landing area for the duration task was between winchlines 
and runaway and almost invisible for spectators. On Friday the wind was 
blowing along the winchlines and the landing area was moved to the hangar 
side, so we could see the landings too.


Some pictures from the WC are here: http://home.cyber.ee/arne/f3b-album/

(full album in packed form for easier offline browsing - 
http://home.cyber.ee/arne/f3b-album.zip - 90MB).


regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] JR Aerotow

2005-06-07 Thread Arne Ansper



On Tue, 7 Jun 2005, Steve Meyer wrote:


How does one make a MOV play at twice the size?  A little small at 1280x1024.


On Windows Ctrl-2 is double size and Ctrl-3 fills the screen.

Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Graupner servos HELP

2005-05-13 Thread Arne Ansper

On Thu, 12 May 2005, Kent Miller wrote:
I have an LET  ASW 28 that had one of the servos snap a gear. It is a
Graupner C261. I need a set of gears or a replacement servo. A Graupner C121
Graupner C261 is same servo as JR S241.
Arne
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RE: [RCSE] Plug-in wing wiring connectors: good, bad, ugly?

2005-03-01 Thread Arne Ansper

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005, Simon Van Leeuwen wrote:
pin/socket designs meant for lots of plugging and unplugging. I can supply PN's
if you are rolling your own.
Any suggestions for DLG wing connector, where you only need four pins and 
the light weight is important?

regards,
Arne
PS. I just looked at the specs of ordinary 2.54mm, 2.5mm, 2mm, etc PCB 
connectors that I planned to use. 25, 30 or maximum 50 mating cycles :(

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RE: [RCSE] Plug-in wing wiring connectors: good, bad, ugly?

2005-03-01 Thread Arne Ansper

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005, Arne Ansper wrote:
Any suggestions for DLG wing connector, where you only need four pins and the 
light weight is important?
I got an idea. Get a pair of sub-D connectors with solder cups, like those 
here:

http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/largeimages/C447702-01.jpg
Cut away the metal shield and cut seven-pin blocks from the connectors. 
Four pins will be used for ground, power and two servo signals. One pin 
will be the key pin to avoid reversing the plug. Two pins at the ends of 
the blocks will be removed and replaced with short steel rods that are 
glued to the female connector - those rods will carry the mechanical 
loads. Female connector will be glued into the wing. Steel rods must be 
thick enough to keep the connector firmly in place.

regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Connector DLG

2005-03-01 Thread Arne Ansper

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005, Simon Van Leeuwen wrote:
accomplished with wire-to-board connector systems and similar breakaway 
headers that are 2mm spacing (Milli Grid);

http://www.molex.com/customer.html?supplierPN=50394,51110:87089
They do not list the number of minimal guaranteed mating cycles there. Is 
this parameter important at all? For all the wire-to-board connectors that 
had this parameter listed it was from 25 to 50.

regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Source for Inexpensive Mylar?

2005-02-14 Thread Arne Ansper

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, Jim Prouty wrote:
I have a project that will use a lot of mylar and I'd like to find it as 
inexpensive as possible.  Needs to be .014 thick if possible.
Check the places that make plastic packages: the folded transparent ones. 
1x1.2 meter sheet of polyester film cost me ~ $4.

Best regards,
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Re: [SALglider] Bagging curved wingtips

2005-02-09 Thread Arne Ansper
Hi!
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005, Dan Kitching wrote:
Maybe I missed an earlier post of yours, but pray tell, what is this 
mysterious compressor of yours?

I'm considering a purchase of a 1/3hp Embraco compressor (refrigerator 
compressor) to serve double duty as a quiet compressor for my airbrushing and 
as a vacuum pump for bagging stuff. I can get them here in Canada for $150 
brand new. If it'll work, the price is right !!!
Mine is also refrigerator compressor. I got it for free from the place 
that removes freon from the old refrigerators before they scraped. They 
had pile of compressors there, the one that worked well was fourth that I 
tried - one had electrical leakage inside, one had air leakage inside, one 
did not start at all and the fourth was ok. If you can get used units 
cheaply, but are worried about the reliablity, you can always put a check 
valve between the pump and bag and run two units in parallel.

I think that new refrigerator compressor will work well as a vacuum pump. 
I do not know nothing about airbrushing.

BTW, if you can select your compressor select one that is designed for 
high starting torque. Those compressors are able to start even when there 
is partial vacuum on the suction side. The low starting torque compressors 
will not start when there is vacuum on the suction side and require 
pressure equalization tubing between suction and pressure sides in real 
refrigerators. LST compressor can still be used for continous run.

Also, there are low back pressure, medium back pressure and 
high back pressure compressors - I did not completely understand what is 
the difference.

Danfoss has very good documentation on their website. Go to 
www.danfoss.com, Products, Refrigeration and A/C, Compressors, Hermetic 
Compressors. Select Literature tab and open the Instruction/User guide 
hive. Mounting Instructions for Danfoss Compressors is good reading if 
you are rebuilding old unit - lots of this info applies to all 
refrigerator compressors. Refrigeration - an Introduction to the Basics 
will explain how to build your own refrigerator and save even more :)

Arne
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[RCSE] Airtronics 94091Z - is it good?

2005-02-03 Thread Arne Ansper
Hi!
Is the Airtronics 94091Z good servo? Numbers look good, but what about 
gear slop and strength? I would like to use it on the DLG rudder and 
elevator.

Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Sanding Mylar LE?

2005-01-24 Thread Arne Ansper

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Somewhere out there on one of the groups, there was a discussion of sanding
mylars at the LE for vacuum bagging to help it conform better to the LE
radius.
Original post from SALglider list by Mark Drela:
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Jul 23 12:51:06 2004
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 18:50:05 -
From: markdrela [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Chamfered Mylar leading edge - helps wrap around
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Cliff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Did I read a post that someone is beveling the leading edge of the 14
mil mylar used for bagging?
If that person will please step forward and say how they are
bevelling the leading edge on the mylar, I and most of the folks here
would probably like to hear about, and whether it helps with the
little leading edge issues.
Yes, it lets the Mylar follow the curvature closer to the LE.
One way to make the bevel is by scraping with a blade, with the mylar
sitting on a hard metal or glass edge. A box cutter is easier on the
fingers than a single-edge blade. Works OK for small tail mylars.
For large mylars I use a Dremel carbide bit, set up over a steel plate
like a minature angled planer. The shavings make a mess, since they
tend to static-cling to everything, so prepare work area accordingly.
My bevels are 1/4 to 3/8 wide, tapering to maybe 0.005 thickness at
the edge. This is hard to judge while scraping, so some sort of edge
thickness stop made from shim stock may simplify the job. Haven't
tried that yet.
--
The thread continues with more hints and opinions.
I scaped my own mylars with blade and it was easy to do.
I think that the SuperGee thread in RCGroups Hand Launch forum also had 
some pictures about this method.

Also a technique for notching the mylars around the tip contour for 
better fit there as well.
I would like to get reference to this one too.
Arne
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Re: [RCSE] European Receiver Help please

2004-12-22 Thread Arne Ansper

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004, Scobie Puchtler wrote:
He'll be needing a full range RX in the sub 10 gram range, similar in size
and weight to an FMA M5 or Berg.  Can anyone help me out with sources,
information, experience?
Schulze: http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.com/ 435 is a twin of Berg 
Microstamp, they were developed in cooperation. I have not heard anything 
bad about those receivers. I have two 835-s.

Arne
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Re: [RCSE] Transfers?

2004-10-21 Thread Arne Ansper
Hi!
Martin Kopplow has developed really nice technique. He prints directly on 
kevlar. Check out his tailfeathers on the link below (you must join the 
SALglider group in Yahoo to see them).

Arne
-- Forwarded message --
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:25:07 +0200
From: martin kopplow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [SALglider] Printing on Kevlar with an inkjet pinter
Ok, I've uploaded two pictures to the SALglider photo section at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/salglider/lst?.dir=/Martin+Kopplows+Pictur
es/Printing+on+Kevlar+and+tail+bagging.src=gr.order=.view=t.done=http%3a//br
iefcase.yahoo.com/
Printing on fabric has advantages over printing on tissue when the size of 
the print is relatively large or even covers the whole part. It saves 
weight. It does not add a layer to the layup, forming no stress raisers at 
it's edges. It also makes the building process a bit easier if used 
appropriately. For a small print, such as a logo, I'd go the tissue way, 
though.

First Picture (Layout, print and result): You can see a finished vert. 
full flying stab and a printed sheet of Kevlar or glass in front of the 
computer with the original layout on screen.

Second picture (Bagging printed glass on balsa) You can see my 
vacbagging setup for a set of glassed balsa tailfeathers with cambered 
airfoil. The material under the part is somewhat flexible to allow the 
bagged part to sink in a little.

Procedure: I first make the layout using my computer. This has the artwork 
in it plus all the marks for positioning and trimming. Leave a little 
space around the parts and at the edges of the print area. Then I roll out 
as much Kevlar or glass as needed on my cutting bench, stroke/blow away 
all wrinkles. I spray a sheet of usual 80g/m^2 copy paper (the size my 
printer takes, in my case it is A4) very thin with 3M repositionable photo 
mount and let dry a minute or so. I then put the paper buttered side down 
on the fabric at 45°, stroke it on. I trim the fabric exactly to the size 
of the sheet by either using a roller cutter and steel ruler (glass) or 
the Kevlar scissors.

After preparing as many sheets as required, I go to my printer, put one in 
the paper feeder at a time and print on them in draft/economy mode. This 
ensures there is no excess ink soaking the fabric and blurring the image. 
Image resolution is limited to less than 30dpi or so by the distance 
between threads in the cloth, so there's no use in printing high 
resolution anyway. The first time I tried, I used a strip of tape to 
secure the sheet's LE when feeding into the printer, but that proved to be 
unnecessary, at least with my printer. It is - however - not recommended 
to try this with 90° cloth orientation: Threads (almost) parallel to the 
paper's edges will most probably get lose and tangle up the printer 
tractor. Cut the fabric somewhat smaller when 90° is required, so there's 
plain paper at the edges.

After printing, it is a good idea to let the ink dry a few minutes, then I 
stick tape (non elastic, but sticky) on the fabric all around the edges 
and press on tightly. The tape overlaps at the corners, that's important. 
If I print more than one part on a sheet, I also put a tape in between the 
parts. Now I cut the parts apart (fabric still on the paper) right in the 
middle of the tape.

I prepare my bagging rig, resin and tools, and only now I peel off the 
paper. Grab the paper with one hand, the tape with the other and slowly 
pull apart. Because of every cloth part being framed by the tape, it will 
not get irreversibly distorted during the process, even if this may look 
like it at first glance. I leave the tape on and put the fabric on the 
bench and blow on them: Just like magic, they will return to their 
original shape, use no fingers, just take a deep breath and blow on top of 
it. Then I wet it with epoxy and roll it dry, with the tape still on. Now 
I put the lower side fabric on a piece of overhead film (print looks 
mirrored now), put the core on top (can see exactly where, because of the 
printed reference marks) with the tape still on and place a piece of 
wetted out carbon roving around the edges of the core (thin one at TE). 
Now I put the top skin cut on another overhead film, put it on the core, 
adjust referring to the printed marks, put a sheet of prepared plastic 
film over everything, seal around the edges with acrylic and switch on the 
vac rig at max. It's getting noisy now in the shop, so I rather get into 
the kitchen and have a beer.

After cured, I trim off excess fabric and the tape, sand the edges and so 
on. The result is in photo #1.

Now I'm looking for a large format printer, that will feed Kevlar right 
off the roll :-) or at least allow printing the size of a wing panel. I 
could make nice wing paintjobs that way, or I could even print on the 
outmost layer of my Kevlar fuselages. I could take a digital photo and 
print it on, 

Re: [RCSE] Tragi 705 X

2004-10-11 Thread Arne Ansper

On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Bill Rakozy wrote:
The Tragi 705 X-tail caught my eye at Visalia and I would appreciate hearing
from those who fly one.  (Build quality is in a class by itself!)
Could you give me some TD performance feedback on the current version of the
Tragi 705 X-tail (carbon).  To include both the upside and any shortcomings.
I have not flown one myself but I have a video from this summer showing 
Heino Kõrvel from Tragi flying his own brand new Tragi 705 with beautiful 
color scheme. The competition was like F3J, but winch launching was used. 
Estonian guys were flying Tragis, Latvian guys used Pikes and Elita. Heino 
won the competition.

You need the DivX codec from http://www.divx.com/divx/download/ to view 
the video.

Video itself: http://home.cyber.ee/arne/nurmsi2004/heino.avi
Best regards,
Arne

Re: [RCSE] testing the DC 9 at 11/10 of design limit

2004-09-20 Thread Arne Ansper

On Sat, 18 Sep 2004, Tom Watson wrote:
The site should be called El Bustedlinko Concepts 'cause half of the links 
(including the MD80 landing) are dead...
It's still useful. Get the missing filename, replace %20 with spaces, 
remove the filename extensions and Google. First match contains: 
http://www.aviationexplorer.com/MD80_VERY_Hard_Landing.mpg

There are also lots of other stuff on this site.
Arne
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RE: [RCSE] Antenna Info

2004-08-13 Thread Arne Ansper

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004, Simon Van Leeuwen wrote:
Hi Anker,
As you are refering to the transmitter antenna, you can include your body and
the surrounding ground making up the GNDplane. As a result, the premise that
the worst point of radiation os off the end of (directly in line) the antenna
element is not true. These extra factors have the null point somewhere above
the plane of the antenna element...
Can you please clarify it. Are you saying that the worst position for the 
TX antenna is when it is sighting below the model? And best position is 
when it is pointed straight up?

Arne
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[RCSE] Battery alarm: LED or buzzer?

2004-06-14 Thread Arne Ansper

Hi!

I crashed my plane do to insufficiently charged battery and decided to
build low battery alarm. I looked around and there seem to be two kind of
alarms: with LEDs and with buzzer (and some of them have both).

What kind do you preffer? I found very simple and cheap schematics
http://www.ncws.com/rcrock/lowbat3.htm that uses buzzer.

BTW, the plane is DLG with small battery.

Arne
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[RCSE] Thermals near the seaside

2004-06-04 Thread Arne Ansper

Hi!
The field that I'm using is located quite close to the sea (8 km). I have 
noticed that even on a very good days, the clouds appear to be much 
bigger and last much longer further away from sea. What is your 
experience? Are the thermals stronger away from sea?

Arne
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RE: [RCSE] Flight Sim recommendations

2003-12-10 Thread Arne Ansper


http://www.sfspc.de/

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[RCSE] Cockpit MM manual downloadable?

2003-09-30 Thread Arne Ansper

Hi!

I'm looking for Multiplex Cockpit MM manual in downloadable form. So far I
have found addendum for Cockpit version 2.0 and manual for Royal Evo.

Arne

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Re: [RCSE] Antenna configuration

2003-08-14 Thread Arne Ansper


 I'm working up a minimalist pod and boom 2M and in order to further reduce
 the size of the pod thought I would put the receiver in the wing as the
 wing is rather large and there is plenty of room for the receiver in
 there.  It's a 3-piece wing, though, and the center panel is only 20 so I
 was wondering if it's ok to run the antenna toward one tip then back an
 inch or so and then toward the other tip, repeating the process until the
 antenna length is used up.

I do not know for sure, but I suspect that this is a bad idea. I recently
did some experiments with antenna shape. I have DLG with carbon boom. I
was little bit afraid that carbon tube might reduce the range and decided
to put the antenna into wing. Antenna was coming out from the wing saddle
and was then going to the wingtip, hidden in the slot in front of aileron.
Since the wing was short about half of the antenna was in the fuselage,
so the antenna was shaped like L. What happened is that I lost radio
control and crashed the plane. I started to do range checks and found that
the shape of the antenna affected the reception dramatically. Straight
antenna was best. L shaped antenna had only half of the range. I did not
test this configuration you are planning. Finally I did tests with antenna
running inside tailboom and the with antenna running outside. There was
no difference in range, so I put the antenna into tailboom.

But best way to find out is to make a test. Lay your antenna down as you
planned, connect receiver and servo, ask somebody to help you and measure
the range. Compare with the range with straight antenna.

Arne

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Re: [RCSE] You gotta REALLY wanna do this!!!

2003-01-03 Thread Arne Ansper


 Has anyone here given thought on this thread that controls stick position
 at the transmiter doesn't really tell you anything at all about actual
 control throws at the surface of the model?  Linkage, horn length, slop,
 flex, servo type and other variations wilklhave an effect on actual throw.
 If you want to do this, rig something to actually measure throw in angular
 units verses transmitter movement in angular units.  ATV in numeric units

??? thats exactly what i proposed to do at #2: to pick up the actual input
signal vs control surface deflection graph using computer.

all the graphs that are drawn later, when you are creating a setup for TX
(at #4) show actual control surface deflections.

 or percentages don't tell a lot, and variations in models and
 installations will present different throws for the same transmitter
 inputs.

 I think the idea is neat, but I don't think it will really make it as it's
 gonna be too costly and complicated to be available to the limited user
 base, and results won't be guaranteed.

one thing i forgot to mention: the market for this kind of system is
really small. if this is done commercially it will die sooner or later. i
believe that open source project of some kind would be much more
successful and useful for everyone.

arne

  1) it is possible to build a very cheap computer controlled multichannel
  servo signal coder/decoder using some microcontroller chip. RS-232 would
  be a cheapest way to connect it to PC.
 
  2) you hook your plane to this device and measure the control throws of
  all control surfaces. perhaps not just min, center max but at more points,
  to get more exact response of the control surface to input signal.
  computer will drive the servo and you manually measure the deflections (i
  think that automatic measurement would be too expensive to implement).
  this is one time job.
 
  3) a software model is created for every TX. the model captures the
  programming model of TX and all it's capabilities. creating a model is big
  work and must be done by someone who throughly knows the TX. of course: if
  the manufacturer is cooperating, it's much easier. (the model captures
  only behaviour of the TX, the user interface, programming and
  communication is dealt later).
 
  the abovementioned device can be used to measure the exact charcteristics
  of the TX: you hook this device do your receiver, move the stick to some
  particular position and let the calibarating program to measure the servo
  signal. you can pick-up exact characteristics for differential or whatever
  you need.
 
  4) the model of the particular TX is realized as a plugin for a bigger
  programm that can be used to program your TX. the programm provides
  unified user interface for all TXs: with sliders, knobs, switches, sticks,
  whatever. you can select TX model and create various setups for it,
  compare setups (graphically), store them to file on PC and so on. this
  programm can drive the servo signal encoder described above, so you can
  test the setups on your plane. if you want to transfer your setup from
  one TX to another you can compare the output graphs of setups from
  different TXs and alter the parameters of the destination TX until you
  achieve a similar output graphs.
 
  since you have measured your plane (on step one) you can observe the real
  behaviour of the control surfaces.
 
  5) the programming instructions can be added to the TX model. so if you
  are satisfied with your setup, you can print out detailed programming
  instructions for your TX. or you can re-create the model in your computer
  by following the programming instructions. this can be done for every
  computer radio.
 
  advanced options:
 
  1) if the TX has a PC interface and if the format of the programming data
  is known, one can create additional (different) plugin for this TX that
  handles the communication and uploads/downloads the configuration to/from
  TX. this plugin cannot be created for all types of TXs, it's not that
  universal, it might even be platform-dependent.
 
  2) add some automatic conversion function that will try to convert setup
  of the one TX to another (using neural network or something like that).
 
  arne
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Re: Blue screen sandbagging, was [RCSE] GUI programming for TX's

2003-01-03 Thread Arne Ansper


 Oy, now you're talking about actually *controlling* with the computer? I
 mean, that would be fun, and it's definitely possible, but that's some
 wicked klunky.

 In that case, I think you'd want to start with a Palm and write a custom
 app to talk to a custom-built Tx module with sticks for input. All
 possible, interesting, difficult, and expensive.

i added a mixer to my hitec focus 4am transmitter. the mixer is an analog
computer. when i built it i looked at the possibility to build a PIC based
digital computer instead. the problem was a DA converter. AD converter for
sampling the stick positions is very simple.  microcontrollers with
sufficient number of analog inputs are available and cheap. at that time i
found only one microcontroller that had a built in DA converter. it's
certainly possible to create small addon board for simple non-computer
radios that would sample the stick positions, send the data to PDA using
RS-232, receive the processed data and send it to transmitter circuit.
imagine: you can record your manouvres to PDA and replay them later :)
only one thing bothers me little bit: reliability of the software. some
kind of emergency cutoff switch for fully manual control is probably
required to save your plane when PDA crashes.

arne

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[RCSE] priming white foam before fiberglassing?

2002-05-15 Thread Arne Ansper


hi!

i remember that i read sometime from somewhere that it's a good idea to
prime the white foam wing core before fiberglassing it. if i remember
correctly it was white glue or aliphatic resin (perhaps thinned with
water) that was recommended. anybody can comment is it useful or
necessary?

arne


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[RCSE] trouble with bubbles

2002-04-10 Thread Arne Ansper


hi!

i have some trouble with fiberglassed balsa winglets.

take a look at http://home.cyber.ee/arne/winglets/winglets.html. first
picture shows the bubbles that are troubling me. what should i do with
them? cut open and put some CA under the skin? or just leave as they are?

arne


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[RCSE] Gentle Lady on slope

2001-06-29 Thread Arne Ansper


Hi!

What kind of slope (how big and steep) is required for Gentle Lady? Or is
it impossible or pointless at all? I just attempted to fly mine on the
biggest local slope and was lucky enough to get it back undestroyed. The
slope is steep and quite low (about 15 meter high), the wind was strong
(the plane was moving very slowly). There was some lift near the edge
(plane raised sharply couple of meters), but it was impossible to turn
back (plane was drifting very quickly downwind when I changed the cource).
Was the slope too small? Wind too strong? Or do I just need the aileron
ship?

Arne


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[RCSE] why are ailerons top-hinged?

2001-05-23 Thread Arne Ansper


hi!

simple question: why are ailerons top-hinged? i have two explanations:

1) they look better this way

2) since the pushrod is usually on the lower side of wing one can use
shorter control horn (by the thickness of the aileron), to achieve same
throw that helps to reduce drag somewhat.

since i'm putting the pushrod on the top of the wing i would like to put
the hinge to the lower surface. are there any aerodynamical consideration
which make the top hinged ailerons with continous upper surface more
desireable?

arne


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Re: [RCSE] How do you read a polar?

2001-05-23 Thread Arne Ansper



 I went to the selig website to look up some airfoils and the polars are
 completely greek to me.  How do you interpret the data?  Is there any

take a look at http://members.tripod.de/MartinHepperle/Airfoils/howdoi.htm

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Re: [RCSE] why are ailerons top-hinged?

2001-05-23 Thread Arne Ansper



 It's usually because ailerons have more upward deflection than downward,
 especially in a crow or spoileron setup. Having the hinge on top allows for

yes, right. i didn't think about it. thank you very much.

arne


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