Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size
screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads.
Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause
short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other
A lot better than in G land. Left the receiver running on 28020 yesterday and
a couple of times signals popped out of the noise but had disappeared again
before I could copy their callsigns. Effectively zilch - and I won the QRP G
certificate last year with a massive 18 QSOs...
73 Dave G3YMC
Ian GM3SEK asked Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the
kit?
No, the nuts and bolts are bundled together for each module/assembly
in an envelope or bag. Sorting them is relatively easy as there aren't
that many per assembly stage. I cut the bottom off a cardboard box to
FYI, there's a summary of K3 assembly concerns that have been posted
to the reflector on the K3 Wiki at
http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Kit_Building_-_Specific_Concerns/Advice
The intention is for future K3 builders to be able to go to one place
and get everyone's advice without
Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?
Ian,
They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located
the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading pan
head which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of
I can compare the Orion 1 to the K3.
Size - the Orion is a suitcase, the K3 is a lunch box -much smaller and
lighter. As a result the K3s buttons and knobs are smaller and closer
together.
The K3 is portable, the Orion is not.
Bandscope - the Orion's may be primitive but it works. The
I received my Invoice confirmation at 23:58 last night (Sat) - so Aptos are
burning weekends to. Ordered 2-May @ 15:45z.
Added lots of 'bits' to it over the period from then until now.
Shipping in 7-10 days by UPS Express.
Will notify when it arrives.
--
A good cook is like a sorceress who
As I ordered mine on the same day, can't be long now...
73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sun, 09 Dec 2007 13:24:04 +, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I received my Invoice confirmation at 23:58 last night (Sat) - so Aptos are
burning weekends to. Ordered 2-May @ 15:45z.
Added lots of 'bits' to it over
I initially made the EXACT same mistake ... but after a few moments of
reflection, realizing that something just didn't 'smell right', I
re-read the assembly manual carefully ... and sorted it out. Not a big
deal!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
I am sure that this is covered somewhere, but I can not find it. What
impedance microphone is required for optimal performance with the K3
and what is the permissible range?
Thanks
Bob
--
For Support Call
Lakeshore, ON, Canada (519) 997-4574
Silicon Valley, CA, U.S.A.(408) 916-1119
Ian GM3SEK asked:
Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?
---
No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such
a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts
list is broken down to show what
Hi All,
One bag of parts, the miscellaneous bag I think, has most of the screws
used in the assembly. Other accessories and parts do often include
additional hardware necessary for assembly of that part. But generally, you
are digging screws from the general package. With 20/20 hindsight,
On Sun, 09 Dec 2007 02:20:38 +, you wrote:
Hello all,
has anyone made receiver side by side comparisons of a K3 and a TenTec
Orion/Orion II?
As far as I know the conversion principle of both transceivers is quite
similar. I'm not sure about the concept of roofing filters...
As one may
This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but:
if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would
be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3
is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the
screwdriver
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Ian GM3SEK asked:
Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?
---
No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such
a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts
list
I rather think a low impedence mike is generally preferred. Note the pinout
information on P. 13 of the manual where a low impedence mike (approx. 600
ohms) is indicated. However, the K3 can be used with either high or low
impedence microphones, and that is dealt with via a menu setting. See
In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but:
if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would
be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip.
Ah, but mind you don't erase
Hi.
I'm installing the trimmer capacitors on the band pass filter part of K2 now.
The capacitors I have got is some blue plastic capacitors in stead of the 30pF
ceramic trimmers.
Is this corect or should I continue to look for some other capacitors? There is
no text on the blue capacitors.
73de
This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but:
if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would
be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3
is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the
screwdriver
One advantage of the magnetized driver tip is that it will
simultaneously hold both the screw and the lock washer in those cases
which require a lock washer under the screw head.
The hex nuts can be a bother; made me wish Elecraft had the old
plastic tool that Heathkit used to include that
Hi All,
As most of you probably know, the K3 incorporates a feature called AFX,
which is similar to stereo reception. It is a DSP function, and I am
finding it to be very beneficial. You can read a brief description of it on
P. 33 of the owner's manual. As described, it does indeed make
A very inexpensive tool which I have found to be ideal for getting screws,
nuts and washers into tight corners is a thing called a 'Grabber', the one
that I have resembles a fat plastic trim tool 4 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch
diameter. At one end is a spring loaded plunger which when pushed
Interesting reading. Here's my decades-old trick that always works well.
I used a small piece of electrical or masking tape. I place the
screw/other hardware into the tip of the screwdriver and do a wrap of
tape so that the edge of the tape just grabs onto the head/washer.
The rest wraps around
I have just spent the afternoon here putting the K60XV board in my K2 s/no.
4930. It works fine on rx and tests out okay until I get to the part on
page 13 where I have to set to 2W and peak C1 and C2 on the 60 metre board.
I have no power output, nothing registered on a 5W fsd external meter
Ur 5nn in VA, Ken. The K3 sounds great!! I would give
you a shout but I'm knee deep in code at the moment.
73,
David W4SMT
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You should be fine unless you're storing a copy of the firmware on a floppy
disk near your assembly area. ;-)
Craig
NZ0R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Pratt
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 12:19 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject:
Also look in Table on Pg 49 Main Menu Table under MIC SEL for the specific
settings.
Al WA6VNN
**Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop000301)
One more thing I have just noticed - I do have power out on ssb, about 20W
as measured externally, but the power control still does not have any
effect. On Tune and CW, there is no externally measure power output on any
band, whatever the position of the power control.
What have I done?! :-((
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head
is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip
to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a
large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of
In a recent message, Stephen Prior [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
One more thing I have just noticed - I do have power out on ssb, about 20W
as measured externally, but the power control still does not have any
effect. On Tune and CW, there is no externally measure power output on any
band,
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head
is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's
worth the rip
to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a
large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety
While not a Phillips screwdriver, those made
for Posidriv screws are better for Phillips screws.
Yes, I'm well-aware of the difference in the two ...
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Post to:
It's actually Pozidriv ...
Ken - K0PP
- Original Message -
From: Ken Kopp
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, 09 December, 2007 21:49
Subject: Better drivers for Phillips screws
While not a Phillips screwdriver, those made
for Posidriv screws are better for Phillips
David, many thanks!
You were very close - I had inadvertently soldered the centre of the coax at
J13 to the little hole next to hole X, not hole X itself. All working now,
covers going back on!
Thanks a lot
73 Stephen
On 9/12/07 21:48, David Pratt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a recent
Stephen,
From the behavior you indicate, I would believe you have something
wrong with the VRFDET signal.
Check first by removing the K60XV - install a low value capacitor (4.7
pf is ideal) between the output two pins of J15 and install a wire
jumper between pins 3 and 5 of J13.
With those
Simple tip, if you have a Phillips Screwdriver, file or grind about
1mm off the point. The tool will now seat better in most Phillips or
Pozidrive screws and work much better.
No it's not the best solution, just one that works pretty good.
--
73 Rod, Ai7NN ~*~*~Happy Holidays~*~*~
On Dec 9,
Whew!! Now I dont feel so bad..40 contacts with 18 multipliers.
I figured it was my lack of a good 10 meter setup.
Although Fla had a direct line to MO this afternoon
for a hour or so. Figured I might
hear Tom (N0SS) out there.
It was fun any-hoo.
73s
-Pete
Yep, today wasn't as good as yesterday, and I called yesterday bleak!
Today I had a grand total of 4 QSOs and no new multipliers. Highlight was
actually yesterday evening a couple hours after dark when things were
jumping for awhile. I was running over 60 per hour but unfortunately that
rate
I lost some of today helping a club member with
an antenna but I'm not sure it was any great loss.
K2 QRP effort netted 35 QSOs for the whole contest
with only 4 mults.
There was one noteworthy thing from this effort.
For the first time while I was using my K2 there
was this irritating noise
Hi
I'm at the end of installing new firmware in K2 sn 1520 in advance of
building and installing a KIO2. And that's being done in order to build
and connect up a new XV50 kit that's sitting patiently on my bench.
Anyway, all's going quite well except:
1. I'd like to restore the narrow RIT
Good Evening,
ECOM operations ceased as of PST today. The infrastructure of the
coast from Lincoln City to Astoria is allowing folks to take care of themselves
and communicate via their normal means. Washington is still a mess but I was
not involved with their ECOM efforts so I am not
For Sale:
I have just ordered a K3 (after agonizing over the decision for months) and,
as a result, I am forced to offer my as new K2 #4972 for sale. I have the
following components: K2 Transceiver #4972; KPA100 100 Watt Amplifier; KSB2
SSB Option; K160RX 160 M 2nd Antenna Option; KNB2 Noise
I'm trying to understand why I can't seem to get my K1 to emit a tone when I
press + and - but I do hear dits and dahs in my earphones when I transmit
and I do hear dits and dahs in my other radio when I transmit into a dummy
load. I'm trying to do a final alignment. Can you do a final alignment
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