Hi Dennis,
excellent job. Many thanks for sharing it.
Can you advise which direction on the bed is recommended in slicer please?
I am asking as the orientation on the printing plate will be most important
for supports...
Thanks,
Petr
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
Very nice. I went a less imaginative direction. A replica of the
original K1 stand.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1WMjCbeJmLmmJRKf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7FnAUmqgtPQy5ft6
Didn't think it was appropriate to post on Thingiverse as it's a copy of
a proprietary design. I did it as a learning
Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950
73's
Denis
KC6AUP
--
There is no
Lloyd,
The first thing you should do is adjust the Pre-mixer and RF Bandpass
filters for the 20 meter band. See the K1 manual for the adjustment
procedure.
If that does not bring the output up to at least 5 watts (when using a
13.8 volt or greater power source), then suspect the 22MHz
> I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown.
> It puts out 6W on 40m, but only one watt on 20m,
> measured with a WM-2...
The most likely problem is misalignment of band 2 of the KFL1-2. Perform a
realignment of the 20m portion per the K1 manual.
Don't waste too much time optimizing the
I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. It puts out 6W on 40m, but
only one watt on 20m, measured with a WM-2 and a dummy load... and the
display on the rig. Internal ATU installed. 13+V supply.
What to check first? etc.
__
Thanks, Don! 73, KQ7TJ
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Thank you!
On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:28 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Tom,
>
> You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place. Just
> put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
> manual. The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
Tom,
You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place. Just
put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
manual. The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
In order
In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
I just redid my Transmitter Alignment on my K1, using a wattmeter, which I
didn't have when I originally built it. I have removed the Antenna Tuner -
now on to redoing my TX Offset - to do that do I leave the Antenna Tuner off
and proceed, or do I reinstall the Antenna Tuner and then proceed with
I have K1 s/n 3502 for sale. It has 40M and 20M on board and the KAT1
antenna tuner. From the pictures you can see that I have added a
homebrewed tilt stand that also doubles as a convenient carrying handle.
Included will be a Texas Instrument 12V, 2A power supply. $375 shipped
to CONUS.
I am in search of a 2 band or 4 band filter board for a K1. Any help would be
appreciated, you may contact me by e-mail at aaherb...@hotmail.com.
Andy
NR8N
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Before a backlight kit was ever available for the K1 from Elecraft, I
built my own and was able to position it at the side of the LCD without
tearing everything apart. I used a single white LED, and if I remember
correctly I filed the face of the LED plastic body to make the light
scatter
If not, you might still be able to source the relevant parts. I made
mine before the official kit existed by ordering parts from Mouser. Mine
has a red backlight instead of the Elecraft green :). -kb7psg
On Sat, 6 Jul 2019, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Lloyd,
The kit for built K1s included
Lloyd,
The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it
was not included.
In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will most
likely be destroyed in the process. The easiest way to remove it is to
cut the pins close to the LCD body and then remove
The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Chris,
First check the 10 turn VFO pot and its connections on the front panel
board. If the pot itself is the older one with a blue plastic shaft
(remove the knob to check), replace it with the newer metal shaft pot.
If that is not the problem, turn to sheet 1 of the RF Board schematic.
Hi Chris,
Instead of spending time troubleshooting I would start with re-soldering
the Front Panel Board and connections. There are not that many
components so it shouldn't take that long. I had an intermittent
problem on my K1 and re-soldered the whole RF Board. Not very
sophisticated but it
My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating”
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it
INCREDIBLE RESULT!!!
I called Elecraft, and a few hours later, they called back: they found ONE
two-band board, and they're kitting it up with 20 and 80 for me. I'll have
to swap the boards to change, but I'll have a four-band K1.
EXTREMELY satisfied customer, still.
On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 9:35
Lloyd,
Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board. Order the
kit for the band you wish to switch to.
There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.
Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band
boards easily. The K1 will remember the OPF
I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and 80.
If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to rework
the existing board for 20, instead of 30.
Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
four-band board?
might it be
I'm usually just an avid reader of this listserve, but lately the
conversations have been about products that have really enhanced my
hamming experience over the years. I got the K1 about 19 years ago,
and the AX1 is my most recent toy from Elecraft Land. I have many
toys from that land, so a
Ahh ... very good point, Bob! I forgot that.
I assume crystals can still be had from somewhere, though. I wonder if
Elecraft kept their old stock of them.
I'm copying the list on your reply since it was someone else who needed
a new board, not me.
73,
Dave AB7E
On 6/10/2019 11:09
Unless I am mistaken (entirely possible), all of the K1 band filter
boards were essentially the same except for the coils. I'd bet that
there are several unused two band K1 filter boards out there ... the
result of owners upgrading to the four band module. For example, I have
an extra
> On Jun 10, 2019, at 8:57 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft
> wrote:
>
> Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to
> collect the required parts if the boards were available.
The actual problem is that the parts are no longer available. Wayne sent this
to the
Wayne has already addressed this, not too long ago. They aren't
considering opening the K1 not only because of the circuit board layout
(copyrighted) but also the IP embedded within the microcontroller.
It's dead, Jim.
On Mon, Jun 10, 2019 at 12:21 PM Mike Morrow wrote:
> What you propose
What you propose will very likely not be possible.
Elecraft has always been very "outside the norm" for contemporary QRP kit
makers in NEVER providing PCB trace info for the kits that it sold. It is
deliberate company policy.
I could have used such info a number of times after I built an
Apologies in advance if this has been answered before. I can’t find it in the
mailing list archives although surely it has come up already.
I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for my
40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but
I have a K1, SN 111, original owner. Works fine….
Anyone want to buy it?
Rob — KT7L
r1foll...@gmail.com
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?
Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(
On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen wrote:
Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when
Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(
On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
> in shorter
Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while
activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for
awhile, I played with his K1. I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had
it, it
Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.
73, Byron N6NUL
On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 5:48 PM Lane
wrote:
> Took a look at the new revamped website (or maybe I haven't been on it
> for a while), and noticed there are no K1's listed. Is it true?
>
Took a look at the new revamped website (or maybe I haven't been on it
for a while), and noticed there are no K1's listed. Is it true?
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
Hello all,
I am looking for a K1. Unbuilt kit or built. Would like to have four bands. I
have two nice KX1s and would be willing to trade towards the K1, or buy
outright.
Thx,
Dennis DeAtley
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Hi there!
The K4 looks amazing! It will make a lot of people very happy, though
I think Elecraft missed a trick not offering an optional 40lb lead
base for it.
When the K3s came out, I happily purchased a used K3/500 line and
upgraded them. They are fantastic! I have used other peoples K3 setups
Peter,
After a K1 Reset, nothing needs to be adjusted, but you will have to do
the menu related settings:
STP, STL, b1 and b2 settings (b3 and b4 if a 4 band board) and CAL OPF.
CAL OPF is not difficult, but does require a signal of known frequency
on each band - it is just an adjustment of
Petr,
After the reset, you should not have to do VFO calibration, but you will
need to set the VFO Offset (CAL OPF) in the menu. That requires only a
known frequency signal for each band that is installed and button taps.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/13/2019 11:45 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:
Hi
Hi Don,
perfect. many thanks for few hints.
i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.
the only I am worrying a
Petr,
Check the VPOWER signal line to see if there is any DC level change.
If is is a steady DC level, then try changing QW5 and/or D18.
If VPOWER varies, then the MCU or DAC is causing the variation. In that
case, I would try a Master Reset (See manual Reset to Factory defaults),
but first
Hi Don,
many thanks for kind help and reply.
Unfortunately I don't think its DAC sampling issue...
I checked it happends on any power level (not depending to the power level
setting)
and it happends in my case only on 40m (band 1).
Also I realized that the power variation is sometime 0.5W and
Petr,
There may be nothing wrong. The POWER control line originates at the U2
DAC on the front panel and is applied to Q5 on the RF Board.
You should check all components associated with Q5 to be certain of the
value and good soldering.
Since the POWER signal line is derived digitally from
Hi Bert,
Even I noticed that power jumps sometimes also down... not only up as shown
on vid. It happends on band 1 - 40m in my case, band 2 - 20m seems ok.
regards,
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe:
Hi Petr,
I've checked you video and interestingly enough I have the same or
similar problem with my K1.
Sometimes the power output goes to the full programmed output and pulls
back 1 watt or so. It doesn't
happen every time I transmit but quite often and I can't figure what's
wrong.
Hi all,
so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec.
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8
I am
Hi all,
another work in lab on son’s K1 done. On KFL1-2 the K2,K3 relays replaced,
L11,L12 reworked for correct 15t on cores (0.8uH)... Now its waiting for
band module resistance re-check and re-tweaking TX part this evening. I
wonder if it will be finished successfuly...
-
73 - Petr,
Hi all,
so another evening spent with K1...
As Don suggested we stepped back and revised the band module for correct
winding and resistance check. I found that all LPF cores are not correct.
L9-L10 with 22t instead of 21t and L11-L12 with 14t instead of 15t for
40/20m band. So I am going to
Don,
The kit showed up yesterday, and just wanted to thank you for it.
Denis
KC6AUP
--
There is no future until we settle our past...
On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:06 AM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a
Yes, that is the one.
My address is is current in the database
Denis
KC6AUP
On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 09:06 Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1? If so, I
> have one available. $29.95 plus shipping.
> Please let me know if you want it and
Denis,
Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1? If so, I
have one available. $29.95 plus shipping.
Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost -
USPS Priority Mail.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:
I was wondering if
I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
part with?
Denis
KC6AUP
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
Hi Don,
yes filter board is not inserted during these tests on page
45-46...(resistance and voltage tests)
Thanks for hints,
Petr
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
Sent from:
Don and Bert,
Thanks for inputs from both.
All measurement was done without the filter board.
Petr
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
Bert,
Multiply the RF Voltages listed for the RF Probe by 2.8 to get the peak
to peak RF voltages observed with an oscilloscope.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/21/2019 9:13 PM, Bert wrote:
HI Don and Petr,
Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1
Don and Petr,
Forgot to mention that measurement was done with filter board plugged
in. 5.7K
Bert VE3NR
On 4/21/2019 6:26 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Petr,
Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?
Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when
HI Don and Petr,
Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1 Manual. Thanks anyway!
I find it quite difficult sometimes to troubleshoot and follow the
schematics. Also doing signal tracing in the receiver and
transmitter is quite subjective
Petr,
Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?
Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when
making the resistance measurements on page 45.
The filter board is not plugged in until you get to page 46.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM,
Hi Don and Bert,
as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.
Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45
Don,
many thanks.
Manual is printed now.
I am going to do it step by step accordingly during coming Easter holiday.
I will report then after...:)
73 Petr
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
Bert,
The troubleshooting section is about the same - no problem.
Do not rely on the board Rev level to be the same as the manual level.
There is no Rev J K1 board.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/16/2019 9:03 PM, Bert wrote:
Hi Don, Petr and all,
I have a similar TX problem that I've been working on
Hi Don, Petr and all,
I have a similar TX problem that I've been working on for a time.
Reading your emails I realized
that I'm using a K1 manual Rev. J. 2015.
My K1 is from around 2000, Rev. D, and I'm now asking if the Rev. J of
the manual is OK to use
as reference and for
Petr.
Turn that manual to Appendix E near the back. And on page 6 of that
Appendix, you will find Transmitter Signal Tracing.
Set up the K1 as instructed there, and no damage will be done.
Then make the measurements in the order listed. You will need an RF
probe. If you are using an
Don,
I checked other parts in TX section and it seems to be ok (refer to manual
2000 Rev. D). Just removed the 5th turn on secondary winding of T3.
Is there something else strange or danger which I should check in order to
avoid smoke during the test or even blowing the final please?
Many
Don,
many thanks for hints.
I will re-check all cores on RF board as same as on band module...
We got this K1 in "repair needs" state from friend and the receiver sounds
nice at the moment.
So I would like to finish the repairing of TX path which burned to builder
probably during alignment.
I
Petr,
The number of turns on T4 is not likely to make much of a difference,
but I recommend correcting it just the same.
However, it is an indicator that there may be other toroids in that K1
with an extra turn on them, so check all of them.
As for the transmit problem, it is only a guess
Hi all,
I am trying to repair the son's K1 where the TX seems to be sick. (receiver
sounds hot and quite nice on both bands 40/20m)
I found several C0G caps around the cores on the module board burned as same
as K1 relay so I replaced them all after long time searching them on the
market (EU).
io, KE9UW
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on
behalf of Bert
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2019 11:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20
I recently bought a K1 with a 40/15 filter
I recently bought a K1 with a 40/15 filter board and want to
change it to 40/20. Is there a kit available and if so what's
the cost?
Thanks!
Bert VE3NR
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
As usual Don thanks.
I just found the ATU manual on line so will review that next.
de KG9H
> On Mar 26, 2019, at 10:11 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
> Frank,
>
> An external SWR meter will only show you the antenna SWR which will not
> change no matter what the ATU does. If you want to see that
Frank,
An external SWR meter will only show you the antenna SWR which will not
change no matter what the ATU does. If you want to see that for any
antenna and band, you can use the ATU CLS setting which effectively
bypasses the ATU and shows you the antenna SWR.
The important thing to the
So getting used to my new to me K1.
I am lucky to have the ATU internally (and am looking for the NB board!) but
have a question for the folks that have one of these.
How do you see your reverse power in the field? Do you use an external SWR
meter? is there a way to get some LEDs out that can
Thanks, Don Wilhelm, your intuition was correct: I installed a 120pF
capacitor at C12. When I replaced it with the correct 1200pF capacitor the
frequency display worked!
73,
Tom
KQ7TJ
Don Wilhelm wrote
> Tom,
>
> Triple check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200pF and that you
> did
Sorry, Mike Morrow! The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04,
2013. I think you answered him and that's where I saw your name. I'm
obviously not adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a
string of replies to David I didn't read.
73
--
Sent from:
Sorry, Mike! The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04, 2013. I
think you answered him and that's where I saw your name. I'm obviously not
adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a string of
replies to David I didn't read.
73
--
Sent from:
Sorry, Mike! I'm obviously not fully cognizant of how the reflector works.
I thought the original message I was replying to would be included in the
string. It was back from 2013.
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
Tom,
Triple check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200pF and that you
did not use the 120pF capacitor for one of them.
Build yourself an RF Probe. The schematic for one is shown in the K1
Manual Appendix on Troubleshooting. You can also purchase a kit from
Elecraft.
73,
Don
Tom,
You cite my name in your post, but I have absolutely no idea of what you refer.
I built my K1 serial 175 in November 2000 and I experienced NO problems start
to finish.
Quote the posting to which you refer, including its date.
Mike / KK5F
-Original Message-
>From: Tom Johnson
I have exactly Mike Morrow's problem, and wonder if he ever got it resolved.
Mike, if you are still around I'd like to hear what your resolution was.
I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
attempt to trace down my problem. In the meantime I have looked over my
Tom,
As instructed in the KAT1 manual, refer to page 31 of your K1 manual and
see if R39 is present. If not, add it. In either case, solder C76
across R39 - one capacitor lead to each resistor lead.
Do the trace cut as shown in the diagram on page 8 - I can't describe it
better than the
Before I go cutting into the RF Board (Revision D, year 2000) and soldering
resistors and capacitors together, I want to clarify my understanding.
1) Does "Solder capacitor RF-C76 across RF-R39.." mean that I leave RF-R39
soldered to the board and additionally solder the leads of RF-C76 onto
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on
behalf of Tom Johnson
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 8:34:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Melt Down
I just completed my K1 RF Board through to the DC Voltage Checks section. I
plugged into a 12 V Battery Pack
I just completed my K1 RF Board through to the DC Voltage Checks section. I
plugged into a 12 V Battery Pack and did not get any smoke from the board
when I turned on S1. But I did not get a voltage reading from pin 15 on P1.
I did get a reading between 3.8 - 4.2 on P1 pin 16. I went back to
Thank you!
On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 12:53 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Tom,
>
> An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item. Use it.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > I am building a Four Band Module K1. I got my parts a little mixed up
> and
> > installed the 18 Pin U1
Tom,
An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item. Use it.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
I am building a Four Band Module K1. I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module. The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18"
I am building a Four Band Module K1. I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module. The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch. The socket
from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but
Hello,
I am assisting the family of a SK selling their ham radio gear.
The estate has a mint condition Elecraft K1 (sn#01739) with the
KFL1-4 four-band module (40,30,20,15m) which includes the KAT1
Antenna Tuner and the NB Noise Blanker. The circuit boards all look
to be professionally
Is there a way to simply mod a K1 to provide a keying output for a KXPA100 or
KPA500 amp?
I built every option into my four-band K1 if that makes a difference.
Thanks and 73 Eric WD6DBM
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
__
Elecraft mailing
Pete,
Rev Cr should be the same as Rev C. If you have the two extra
capacitors, install them as indicated in the instructions. The Rev D
board had thru-holes for those capacitors, but I don't think the Rev D
board was ever released. I have never seen one.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/3/2019 10:23
Hi folks,
This may be an trivia question for Super Don. ;-) In the sequence of
Revs to the KBN1 board, does Rev C include Rev Cr, or is Cr its own
board revision? My board is Rev Cr, and toward the end of assembly
there are a couple of capacitors that for Rev C require special
installation. I
Does anyone happen to have one of these that could benefit from being re-homed?
73 - Al, K2ZN
Sent via mobile
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post:
I have a nice K1 for sale. If interested, drop me an email for details.
Carl Yaffey K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com
http://www.bluesswing.com
Fred,
If 40 meters works, then 30 should also. They share the same low pass
filter and the inductors of the bandpass filter and Pre-Mixer bandpass
filter.
One possibility is that the crystal for 30 meters has gone bad. You can
check for that with an oscilloscope or RF Probe at P1 pin 4.
I just acquired a K1 4 bander from a ham in Ottawa. It has 40,30,20 and 15
meters in it. All bands operate and function as they should except for 30
meters. Have done some searches on this possible issue but nothing solid as of
yet. Anyone have a starting point where I might look to see or find
Everything is gone. Sold in first 5 minutes of posting last night. I’m still
getting queries about specific items. Guy, they’re all gone! Wish I had more.
Mike, W4UM
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
K1 and K2 extra parts for sale:
K1 Top Cover – has small 3/8” hole drilled in rear lip – otherwise, in
excellent condition with no scratches – $12.00
K1 Front Panel – some wear from felt washer around main dial opening
(unnoticeable when knob installed) – otherwise in excellent condition with
I have for sale excess to my needs:
(1) for the K1 and K2 transceivers:
I have two sets of the K6XX CW Indicator with False Blink kit, LED Button
Option & header connect/disconnect option. These work well on the K1 and
fairly well on the K2. NOTE: the kit requires soldering of SMD
Dave speculated about the KFL1-2 filter board:
> ...aren't all the boards the same except for the frequency
> determining parts (toroids and caps)?
Yes, plus the two heterodyne crystals.
> you could just swap out those parts on your 20/30 board.
> Pretty sure the caps and cores would still be
Again, I'm not sure about this, but aren't all the boards the same
except for the frequency determining parts (toroids and caps)? If so,
you could just swap out those parts on your 20/30 board. Pretty sure
the caps and cores would still be available somewhere, and somebody is
bound to have
101 - 200 of 2561 matches
Mail list logo
