ehalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 8:28 PM
To: John, 9H5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
John,
As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips. I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles
(Pro Series),
on my computer to zoom in on the
photos.
From: WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
To: "Dauer, Edward" ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
Sent: Sunday, May 4, 2014 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)
I would agre
I would agree, but I prefer a bifocal magnifier head band with an external
light. I have two, one with an extra magnifying loop.. You definitely need
some kind of magnifier unless you are very young with great eyesight or have a
pet hawk or eagle to help. Seeing eye dogs don't help much as th
One other tool I found essential - and I don¹t recall if anyone has
mentioned this yet - is a hand-held magnifying glass with built-in
illumination.
There are at least two kinds of occasions when this could be important.
One is those few places in which the soldered leads on a small board have
to
nt: Sunday, May 04, 2014 8:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
To be on the safe side, wear only cotton clothing; no wool or synthetic
clothes.
Cotton will be least likely to pick-up any charges.
73 Jerry KM3K KX3 #6088
-Original Message-
F
8:28 PM
To: John, 9H5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
John,
As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips. I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I
You are 100% correct
That is why you should not install modules after a very long week
Thank you
From: Don Wilhelm
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
There should be no need to cut any
Old Heathkit trick. :)
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.c
There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the
John,
As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips. I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are
comforta
: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014
Hank K7HP writes ...
John - One other small step for K3 assemblers that I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual "KNB3 installation
procedure"
My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker
Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014
Hank K7HP writes ...
John - One other small step for K3 assemblers that I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual "KNB3 installation
procedure"
My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 sh
John - One other small step for K3 assemblers that I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual "KNB3 installation
procedure"
My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me
On 5/3/2014 2:15 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
> living in a cave!
--
Maybe, but even a cave man can do it !
> _ Anonymous ___
.
Helping others is one of the main purposes of this list. If we could
get the UPS guy to move faster, I'm sure we would.
73
matt, W6NIA
On Sat, 3 May 2014 15:51:19 -0400, you wrote:
>Gentlemen,
>
>Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!
>
>As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should
Gentlemen,
Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!
As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very
effective, I'm sure.
Keep them coming please- I have a week more to fill
If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver. The difference is that the nut
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic.
The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and n
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
living in a cave!
Bill K-Line
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mail
Earlier today Bill (W2BLC) wrote .
"Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware."
--- - - - ---
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
Proper ESD precautions dictate that plastic or foam shouldn't be anywhere
near your ESD safe work area. Technically, "not anywhere near" means at
least a foot away
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 5/3/2014 9:01 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and
Oops...meant JIS...
On 5/3/2014 12:56, Anthony Scandurra wrote:
Yes, it's true. JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different
from the American standard.
73, Tony K4QE
On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were s
Yes, it's true. JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different
from the American standard.
73, Tony K4QE
On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type... He even bought some special screwdriver for
t
They may be a cross-point head instead of Phillips. Or possibly a JIS B 1012.
Cross-point heads really need a matching screwdriver. As far as I know, you can
use a cross-point screwdriver for Phillips, but not vice-versa.
More detail here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Cross
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type... He even bought some special screwdriver for
them... Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head. Any one know if this is true?
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, an
I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
and
Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
assembly. Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
Frank
KG6EYC
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: h
Get a static protection mat and ground yourself - this will protect
sensitive parts.
Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.
Read each step twice, then proceed. Don't tighten anything until
instructed to do so.
Do each step in order - there is a reason for it.
The process took me
Congratulations, John!
If you have questions, just ask here; you should
get answers from "those in the know" soon enough.
Another resource I like is this searchable
database of past posts to this reflector:
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft There you can search
by title, author or even based on
Hi John,
I believe you've made one of the better choices of your ham career.
I'm certain you won't look back.
Free advice:
1. Inventory all the parts in the kit, especially the screws,
washers, nuts. Be prepared to measure screw lengths with a shop rule.
2. If something seems like it doesn't fi
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 5/3/2014 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:
The kit is "in the mail" so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email
to the group and exit from "lurk" mode with a question.
I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that t
John,
Yes, that is easy. Follow the instructions in the manual in the order
written.
If you are not adept at determining screw sizes and lengths "by eye",
measure them.
That is all there is to it.
Build the base K3 first, then the KAT3, then the KPA3, followed by the
KRX3 and the KXV144 if y
d and have the rig
come alive!
73 Charles N2SO.
Sent from my android device.
-Original Message-
From: "John, 9H5G"
To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
Sent: Sat, 03 May 2014 5:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
The kit is "in the mail" so I thought it
The kit is "in the mail" so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my
first email to the group and exit from "lurk" mode with a question.
I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of th
I should have mentioned that the kit I completed is a K3. I’m still working on
configuring it. I’m currently getting an error on power up (KAT3). I have an
email into support.
Carl Yaffey K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Colum
Just completed the final checks on my K3 kit and I have to
say the putting this rig together was both an educational and very rewarding
experience. I highly recommend to anyone thinking about purchasing a K3
to consider getting the kit. The precision that goes into its manufacture
along with the v
Hey Dennis:
There is a job waiting for you over at Flex, bud! ;)
-lu-w4lt-
K3 # 3192/P3 # 1301
--
Message: 33
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 23:17:35 -0700
From: Dennis Moore
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error
To: Elecraft Reflector
Message-ID: <4e4a0b7f
...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Moore
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 11:18 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error
I searched the archive and didn't see this listed. I don't have a K3,
but am interested in
I searched the archive and didn't see this listed. I don't have a K3,
but am interested in the radio so was looking at the assembly steps.
Page 22 of the K3 Kit Assembly Manual. Note on the left side of Figure 24.
Sentence reads "Also, on some boards C6 and C6 may not be present.
What should it
Just heard back from tech support (thought they were closed for the
day), the value is OK.
Joe N9VX
On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 9:22 PM, Joe Word wrote:
> I am building a new K3 kit and doing resistance checks, the book
> states the resistance value on U12 to ground should be more than 500
> ohms,
I am building a new K3 kit and doing resistance checks, the book
states the resistance value on U12 to ground should be more than 500
ohms, mine checks 349 ohms, is this a problem? U13 to ground is 378
ohms, books states should be greater than 125 ohms, so OK.
Joe N9VX
__
Edward R. Cole wrote:
>
>
> I could not find
> the configuration where one enables/disables mic bias (using Heil
> HM-10 mic), but adjusting mic gain and compression I finally saw some
> RF output (TUNE button worked right off).
>
>
Page 20 of the latest manual under "MIC".
73, Bill
-
For me, raiding the kitchen and borrowing all the metal cupcake baking trays I
could find worked great.
Heavy enough to not worry about knocking over, big enough to get my fingers in
to and metal so no worries about static.
Rick
K6LE
__
After looking at all those different pieces and sizes of hardware, I went to my
local pharmacy and bought a plastic 4-week pill organizer. I placed some
low-tack painter's tape (the blue stuff) over the lids and labeled each
compartment with its contents. The advantage of this was having the li
Ed,
The more you use it, the better it gets. I'm curious about your final
amp. What/where?
The mic bias info in on p52 of the manual in the Main menu functions
section, Mic Sel.
I found that downloading the pdf of the user manual and searching in
that was usually faster than trying to find st
I received my kit from Elecraft by UPS on Thursday, March 11 (took
one week delivery which is normal for UPS-ground to AK). I waited
until Monday to begin assembly so that an anti-static matt could be
delivered. I finished on Thursday evening with approx. 11-hours of
actual time spent. I too
Well, you DO get to solder one thing, the Anderson Power Pole ends to the
power cord, hi. It is VERY well documented and a pleasure to build.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecra
I ordered my K3 yesterday and have been going through the build manual this
weekend. I also for some reason thought there was something you had to
solder, but sure enough it does look completely like a
insert-tab-a-into-slot-b kit. Even the speaker leads appear to already be
soldered and prepared.
I just got a comment and so I thought I'd add... Yes I did put in a fuse
on the outputs of the K3 switched power box...
~Brett (KC7OTG)
On Sat, 2010-03-20 at 02:46 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
> You get to solder something when you install the K144XV... You shimmy a
> single pin connector into a t
You get to solder something when you install the K144XV... You shimmy a
single pin connector into a tight spot and then go zip tack ok thats
in Guess I get to pack up and put the soldering iron away
again :)
I wasn't about to bring the soldering iron out of its storage bin for
one solder
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:10:30 -0400, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
[snip]
You get to do that if you order any of the small test kits. They are
great.
>
>Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
>wondering "when do I get to solder something".
>
[snip]
73,
Tom, N5GE
K3 #806
Don,
If you start on it tonight, you'll be on the air with it tomorrow afternoon.
I did about 3 hours on a Friday night with mine and I got up early on
Saturday and had it completed in time for a late lunch.
Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
wondering "when do
My new K3, #4076, arrived this morning and is inventoried. I was pleasantly
surprised, it has the new firmware just announced already installed!!!
Everything looks to be of exceptionally high quality, and I am overjoyed at
the prospect of a kit build after all these years. My last large en
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 13:31:17 -0800 (PST)
Mike K2MK wrote:
>
> A resource for those who are undecided as to whether to build their K3 or
> have it factory assembled would be a viewing of N5NA's 7 minute YouTube
> video.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw
>
> It's a masterpiece of time
A resource for those who are undecided as to whether to build their K3 or
have it factory assembled would be a viewing of N5NA's 7 minute YouTube
video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw
It's a masterpiece of time lapse photography. And very enjoyable as well.
73,
Mike K2MK
--
View thi
assembled from parts.
-lu-W4LT-
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:20:32 +0100
From: "Bob DeHaney"
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built
To:
Message-ID: <001101ca8261$e74fdd90$b5ef98...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
I did the kit.
>From the pract
I always enjoyed building kits and was looking forward to building a K3.
But my plans were altered by health issues and I had to go factory built.
And I found out 3 weeks ago when I tried to install the DVR option that it
was a god move.
Had real trouble just opening the radio up with 1 1/2 hands.
Lots of people have responded to my question and I feel that it is not really
necessary to drag this out. I was sort of looking to see if there were more
people who had problems after building the K3 but due to flaws in individual
component boards due to the fact that an integrated K3 could not
I would encourage going the kit route if a person has any ability at all.
Its very simple to build following instructions, and took me about 6 hours.
I was pleased with the fit of parts and panels and how fast the radio
went together. And as many have said it makes upgrading or changing
boards a
I did the kit.
>From the practical side, it's nice to know how it goes together if you have
to add something like the 2 Meters expansion, or add a filter, or do a mod,
or send a module back to Elecraft.
>From the fun side it's nice to see all the bits disappearing and a K3
growing on the dining t
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:45:11 -0800 (PST), Bill W4ZV
wrote:
Bill is correct about building your own. Both of my K3's are factory
built #806 and #1055. #1055 was a trade with a guy who wanted my
Orion II.
If I ever BUY another one I'll build it for the reasons Bill gave.
73,
Tom, N5GE
n...@n5
Phil,
Building the K3 will likely make future hardware changes easier to implement
since you will have recognized key circuit board areas and have an
understanding of the assembly/disassembly process.
Getting in and back out of the K3 is very easy. By contrast, the
disassembly of my previousl
Phil Hystad wrote:
>
> I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
> holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
> spend the time to put it together. But, I am also a little bit wondering
> if
> the cost differential of kit versus fact
Hi Volker,
buy the kit - it is absolutely no problem to build it,
you should of course use an ESD equipment but it's
worth to buy one. Write me a PN and we can discuss
it in german. I built two K3s, it was a lot of fun and
they work 100%.
Martin
DK4XL
K3 #2199
--
View this message in context:
I'd recommend the kit too, for the reasons others have stated.
The cost of the electrostatic mat, I seem to recall, was about 20 Euro. The
only test equipment you need is a DMM, an accurate power meter and
(optionally but very useful) a calibrated signal generator for doing the S
meter calibratio
Volker,
It only makes sense to buy factory built if you buy the K3 with all the
possible modules fitted otherwise you will be dis-assembling the radio to
fit other modules at some later date. A design philosophy of the K3 is being
able to buy the basic unit and upgrade as you can afford it or
Another trick that I've used instead of having magnetic screw drivers is to buy
a "puck" of Surf board wax. Keep that in your tool box. Just push the tip of
your screw driver into the wax puck then pick up the screw. One puck should
last you about 15 years! At $1.50 it's pretty well worth it.
On Fri, 01 May 2009 23:29:53 -0400, Don Wilhelm
wrote:
>Tom,
>
>If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like
>what you may be looking for. Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a
>bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture).
>
>Of cour
Tom,
If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like
what you may be looking for. Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a
bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture).
Of course, there is alway the TenTec enclosures if the EC1 and EC2 do
On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700, wayne burdick
wrote:
[snip]
>We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and
>K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15
>(1.5") and ETS2 (2.5"). You'll find these on our order page.
>
>73,
>Wayne
>N6KR
[sni
From: wayne burdick
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700
Hi Mike,
> Wayne said
> > Our little "2D" fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
> > holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.
I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; c
--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Mike Scott wrote:
> From: Mike Scott
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 11:34 AM
> Wayne said> Our little "2D" fasteners are an
> integral part of these designs,
> holding togeth
I agree. The EC2 is too small for my anticipated balanced tuner project.
John W2XS
Merv wrote:
Would love to see a K3 size cabinet (parts) with a blank front and rear
panel.
--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Noise-Reduction-tp2727716p2754922.html
Sent from the Ele
> I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check
> with sa...@elecraft.com.
>
> We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and
> K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15
> (1.5") and ETS2 (2.5"). You'll find these o
Hi Mike,
> Wayne said
> > Our little "2D" fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
> > holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.
>
> Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am
> impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I
> thou
Wayne said> Our little "2D" fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.
Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am
impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I thought:
Where's the case? Some
Terry,
The light blockers should ideally stick to the board. If that is not
possible, they should stick to the switch substrate (as close to the
board as possible.
The purpose is to block the light escaping from the ends of the LCD
assembly, so if you get them into position at the ends of the
> Are the foam pieces supposed to stick down to the second
> layer of LCD
> or wedged all the way down to the switch substrate?
I had the same question a couple of weeks back Terry!
Ron told me:
That step of the assembly procedure says it all: "The blockers should be
nearly flush with the fr
There are nut drivers made by Xcelite (and others) that fit
these knurled nuts. There is one model that's adjustable
by means of a sliding collar.
There is an almost identical nut used on the K2's speaker
jack, but with two slots to add "traction". Xcelite also makes
these.
73! Ken Kopp - K
Are the foam pieces supposed to stick down to the second layer of LCD
or wedged all the way down to the switch substrate?
73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: h
Pliers or an adjustable wrench of the proper size works well. Just engage
the nut without pressing against the front panel. Position the pliers or
wrench at right angles to the panel and grip the nut without pressing
against the paint. You don't need anywhere enough torque to need to position
the t
A nut driver or a deep socket with electrical tape on the face to avoid
scratching the panel.
Rob
NV5E
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:38:02 -0700
> From: te...@kk6t.com
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2" nu
> OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2" front panel
> nuts (AF,
> RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel?
A metric socket worked OK for me, provided it's deep enough to fit the
wrench into the socket without fouling the pot shaft (sometimes need to just
place the end of the wrench into th
A socket wrench with some cellophane tape across the face of the socket
(use a razor blade to cut out the inside of the hole).
73,
Dave AB7E
Terry wrote:
> OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2" front panel nuts (AF,
> RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel?
>
> 73 de Terry KK6T
> K3
OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2" front panel nuts (AF,
RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel?
73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.q
The K2 was a similar experience for me, from the build perspective. I
purchased it to have the best CW rig, and built it to save money. I
had much more fun building it than I had expected.
Dave Wilburn
NM4M
K2/100 S/N 5982
K3/100 S/N 766
wayne burdick wrote:
> Hi Terry,
>
> This was a bit of
is very similar.
Being a structural engineer, I have been always impressed with the Elecraft
radios' structural integrity.
Steve, W2MY
-Original Message-
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
Having the RF board act as the structural backbone is unique in my
experience. I
73 de
Hi Terry,
This was a bit of an experiment when we designed our first product, the
K2, about 10 years ago. But we've used the same method on many products
since then, and it works very well, keeping things light yet rigid. Our
little "2D" fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding
Let me ask a question while this thread is still active. Having the RF
board act as the structural backbone is unique in my experience. Is
this a common method of construction as opposed to a traditional
chassis? As I add panels (side, back) to this I'm amazed at how strong
and rigid the str
That's the idea! :-)
73 and have fun!
Eric WA6HHQ
---
Terry wrote:
> I just started building my K3/100 kit and I have to say.I've been
> ambushed. I bought the kit mainly to save some money and I wasn't
> really looking for any enjoyment during the building process. I was
> wrong - it'
I just started building my K3/100 kit and I have to say.I've been
ambushed. I bought the kit mainly to save some money and I wasn't
really looking for any enjoyment during the building process. I was
wrong - it's really fun and rewarding. The instructions are excellent
and I'm having a b
Thanks, Dale. Glad I am not alone, HI!
On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Dale Harding K7DNH (via Nabble) <
ml-user+195342-848167...@n2.nabble.com
> wrote:
> John -
>
> I had the exact same experience - reversed several steps to see if I had
> done something wrong - went back together and same thi
John -
I had the exact same experience - reversed several steps to see if I had done
something wrong - went back together and same thing occured. It is a tight fit
- just loosen several of the 2D screws and give it just a bit of a slight nudge
and SLOWLY tighten screws, each a bit at a time,
Trying to do the transmitter gain alignment (5 watt)
Getting the ERR TXG on all bands.
KPA3 not installed.
Stock 2.7 filter installed only.
All modes set to use this filter on xmit using K3 utility.
Have run synth alignment & ref osc alignment several times.
All tmp cables are in correct location
Hello
I should be getting my K3/10 kit in a couple of months and woud like to know
what I will need in the way of test equipment to get it aligned and tuned
up? A digital volt meter is about the extent of my test equipment. Besides
that I'm a numb brained old man that has to ask the xyl what my na
-built. There is nothing like a final
assembly test to prove that everything is working right.
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA
- Original Message -
From: "Scott McDowell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 12:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K
Hello
I should be getting my K3/10 kit in a couple of months and woud like to know
what I will need in the way of test equipment to get it aligned and tuned
up?
A digital volt meter is about the extent of my test equipment.
Besides that I'm a numb brained old man that has to ask the xyl what my nam
Mike WA8EBM
> - Original Message -
> From: "WILLIS COOKE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Dave Hachadorian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft
> Reflector"
>
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 k
My K3 also arrived last Monday and they stated that mine had arrived and
that there were a few in the queue in front of it. When I called on
Friday they'd stated that mine was on the bench but hadn't gotten worked
on yet. They expect that it should ship out early this coming week. I
was told tha
I had the same experience with 1025 except that when I
went back to the VCO CAL stage I got a error.
Attempts to cure the problem working with Elecraft
were not successful and I returned the transceiver to
Elecraft. They have had it since last Monday and I
have not heard anything yet. I don't kn
According to the manual:
MISO line stuck low (asserted)
* De-install option modules one at a time.
If no failing option module can be found,
there may be a problem on the RF board.
Chad WE9V
On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Dave Hachadorian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Just finished building K3
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