- though it's not close to Norman, I'm also headed the opposite
direction for the next three weekends -- bad timing.
On 11/16/06, Joseph Shaw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> No problem, Kaleb-just checking if it is CLOSe and not too inconvenient
for
> anyone!
>
>
ate: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:53:46 -0600
I would do it, but thats several hours west of me.
Joseph Shaw wrote:
>
> This is a bit off topic, and I have not posted anything on here for some
> time, but I have run into a jam in West OK-purchased an old truck on
> ebay, and am having a L
This is a bit off topic, and I have not posted anything on here for some
time, but I have run into a jam in West OK-purchased an old truck on ebay,
and am having a LOT of trouble getting things straight with the seller.
If there is ANYONE close enough to this area to run an errand for me, get
The Nissan diesel was available for many years. Diesel Scouts are getting
rare because of the high repair costs, combined with diesel
ignorance. Most of the remaining Diesels have been converted to gas 345
v-8. One of the nice things about IH Scouts and pickups is that any
drivetrain option
I missed the original post, but am interested-could someone forward the link
to me or the original post.
And it could be as simple as valves out of adjustment as well. My first
Benz was a '75 300D, which I got for $200 because of "no start" status. I
tinkered here and there, and then ende
I missed the original post, but am interested-could someone forward the link
to me or the original post.
And it could be as simple as valves out of adjustment as well. My first
Benz was a '75 300D, which I got for $200 because of "no start" status. I
tinkered here and there, and then ende
I bought a 200 series manual to try to iron out my 250C problems, but sicne
I am moving have sold the car and now would like to get rid of the manual.
It is almost in new condition, and I tried it on ebay for $10.00, plus $4.95
to pack it well, but if someone on here wants it, how about $10.
> On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 11:46:20 -0400 Steve MacSween
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I am currently dealing with these guys, to move my 240d from Texas to
>> Canada. So far they have been very good overall. The final verdict will
>> be in when the car arrives (approx. 10 days).
>>
>> http://ww
Hi all,
Just found this list. looks like it's a vey active community. Other forums
I have visited are quite slow.
I have a 72 250 Chassis W114 M130 engine. I am trying to get road worthy
again. I have put on a rebuilt head and rebuilt the carburators. I have
questions all over the place s
How many miles are on it?
Motor and tranny seem pretty functional?
Oddly enough, I was looking at an old Semi in York, to use as a tow rig for
buying old cars, which I do frequently, and was thinking, "But it will cost
so much to drive it home!!!" (I live in GA). But if I can find two thi
I think that's the diagnosis for black smoke-too rich. But someone more
knowledgeable will speak up and confirm.
Sounds like you are making much better progress than I!!!
Good luck-keep at it!
Michael
Hi guys
Before anything else I would like to thanks for your responses to my help
c
Roberto-
Sounds very similar to my problems, only not as severe. I say start to look
to the ignition system as well!
Good luck! Let me know what you find out!
Michael
Hello guys
Today's question it is about the Zenith Carburators on a 280 S M130 engine,
I have experience some proble
Hello guys
I was looking for a response and I finally did, the way to took out the
second stage diaphragm, is easy, you have to pull the shaft untill the
middle were are a small aperture, at this point you can separate the shaft
from the ball joint in the actuating lever.
I hope this help
On Thu, Jul 07, 2005 at 04:30:56PM -0500, Potter, Tom E wrote:
> I'm not an electrical expert, but I agree. As long as the capacitance
is
> within the same specifications, any condenser should work. The problem
> is in determining the capacitance specifications. Better yet, throw
the
> poi
Roberto-
I did get this question from you, and have not been ignoring it, but have
not gotten my diagram out to see which diaphragm we are talking about so
that I can tell you how I got it off!!!
I will try to let you know what I did ASAP!
Michael
From: "Roberto" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Repl
Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Joseph Shaw
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2005 10:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
>If it does not fire the starting fluid, you have an ignition problem.
>
Okay-the
If it does not fire the starting fluid, you have an ignition problem.
Okay-then why did it fire the starting fluid the first time? And why does
it often fire the starting fluid several times before it behaves this way?
Thanks!
Michael
On Thu, Jul 07, 2005 at 04:30:56PM -0500, Potter, Tom E wrote:
> I'm not an electrical expert, but I agree. As long as the capacitance is
> within the same specifications, any condenser should work. The problem
> is in determining the capacitance specifications. Better yet, throw the
> points
Joseph Shaw wrote:
> So I am back to thinking that there has to be a flooding issue.
Until this episode, I was thinking non-delivery. (especially since
you can usually get a brief run from fueling with starting fluid)
And now your thinking is???
I will say that, yes, like everyone e
IIRC, You said you rebuilt the carbs, then tried running the car on old
fuel
(read "varnish"). You might want to recheck the carbs for contamination
Just my 2ยข
Rick Knoble
1985 300 CD
Yes, I DID try to run it on the tank, but only for a very short time, and
very shortly thereafter, we
IIRC, the condensor is to keep the points from arcing-burning. You
should be able to run it a little while without one to see if that's
the problem. A condensor that's going bad will either cause the points
to burn (what I remember happening in my old cars), or short out,
causing no fire to the
Condensor? Condensors don' fit no stinkin' diesel.. (c:
Are you sure it is bad? I guess I have never had a bad one in years,
including the one on my 1946 Champion outboard motor.
I would do some *crazy* things before I would pay even 5 bux for a
condensor.
GREAT! TELL ME WHAT THEY
Okay-cannot seem to get a condensor for now. Cannot seem to access any of
the connectors to the ignition module under the battery tray for now.
I went out and looked, and yes, to whomever asked, there are two small black
boxes and two small vacuum diaphragm style modules on the passenger in
Joseph Shaw wrote:
>
> I just went to two of my local parts houses. One said they couldn;t
even
> get the condensor for my car ('72 250C), and the other said they could
have
> one here tomorrow morning. However, the cost for it was $25.00,
basically.
> Does that sou
Okay-now for another question.
I came home with my list of things to get done today in troubleshooting this
250C trouble. So far, I cannot get a Dist condensor for ti, so can't do
that.
I went back out to remove the battery and look at this module underneath the
battery tray, but cannot s
I just went to two of my local parts houses. One said they couldn;t even
get the condensor for my car ('72 250C), and the other said they could have
one here tomorrow morning. However, the cost for it was $25.00, basically.
Does that sound right? I thought someone on this list that recomme
I just wanted to write in at this time and thank everyone that has chimed in
and helped with suggestions on my 250C trouble.
It has gotten a bit frustrating for me, and having some new outlooks have
helped.
I am going to start in this afternoon on some of your new approaches and see
where
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in line after the fuel pump. These
carbs only need a few pounds of fuel pressure and the floats may not be
able
to shut off anything over 4 or 5 lbs pressure.
A proper fuel pump ( not electric ) might be your first cure. Check your
choke flaps to see if t
Joseph Shaw wrote:
>
> It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which
I
> have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the
prior
> owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it
when I
> bought it, so I trus
our friend wants to drop another $6K into one, I have a deal for
him!!!
Just kidding-thanks again for your help and advice-it has been very
valuable!
Michael
Joseph Shaw wrote:
Uhm
To bew honest, Russ, I don't know jack about this ignition set-up yet.
But I do know that it s
How's the ignition? Does your car have that bastardized
semi-electronic/semi-breaker point setup with the control box conveniently
located under the battery tray? If so, an aftermarket electronic ignition
like a Pertronix would make a big difference. The stock setup is a huge
headache.
I'd
Just wanted to thank everyone that has piped in with info and suggestions on
this project. I have been being VERY concerned about this thing, and to get
a little more input is very valuable. I feel much better about the TON of
fuel it is drinking, as someone reminded me that it has an over
Okay, I have asked several things about this, so you are either probably
really tired of hearing about it, or at least really familiar with it by
now.
I rebuilt the carbs over the course of the past two or three weeks. Started
it yesterday, and it started up well. It will idle run for a w
Thanks, Mike-I knew there were SOME differences between the front and rear,
and was hoping this was one! I have had it started and running already, and
it doesn't seem TOO affected, so I will see if I can get it running as is!
Thanks!
Michael
Joe, I had a 1970 280s with the dual zeniths
Anyone know a size for the SMALL screw that serves as a "cam adjusting"
screw inside the heat-activated choke on the dual Zenith's on my '72 250C?
I have rebuilt them, and the rear one did not have a screw that catches
against the cam on the lever arm inside the spring activated choke housin
Thanks, Kaleb-
Again, EXCELLENT advice and info-exactly the kind of info I was looking for!
Unfortunately, I just let a '75 300D get away that was one of the possible
donors I was thinking of. The one that is nearby is a later one-'80 or so,
so I guess it won't work!
I really appreciate
Mike,
My $0.02, as long as the engine was installed in a 115 before, it will
install in a 114. You may have to deal with firewall and torque items, but
as Ed points out, a cherry body 250 and a rust bucket 300D with motor
within spec 616 engine, and you are golden
Good info, guys! Th
d an old 300D, and I'll
make it work, put together diagrams, put up a website, etc and then
everyone can do it. But they have to be free, 250C rust free and 300D
engine running :)
Everything else is gravy.
On 6/23/05, Joseph Shaw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Clay-
>
> Well, not su
Kevin-
I have saved a lot of cars from fields that have been sitting in fields for
twenty years in all kinds of weather conditions, and have never had one I
could not get out. I have also saved cars that were on the road in all
kinds of weather conditions, and never had one of those I could
rankenbenz
If you get the brass ones to go ahead, let me know how it works out,
because I want to turn a 250C in to a diesel convertable
On Wednesday, June 22, 2005, at 05:09 AM, Joseph Shaw wrote:
I am curious as to the possibility of swapping engines in Mercedes
vehicles.
I have
I am curious as to the possibility of swapping engines in Mercedes vehicles.
I have the 250C I have been discussing the carbs in, but have seen a couple
of 300D wrecks with supposedly not bad miles on the engine around here
lately. I would love to convert mine, but was wondering if this was
Okay, everyone-at least, everyone that has been paying attention to this
saga!
I FINALLY got the first carb apart. What I finally had to do was to take a
drill and a very small bit, and start drilling down into that air cleaner
bolt hole. The debris in there was brown and metallic looking
Check for dirt that has become compressed over the years in the center
hole. There should be a screw in there. Using a fine pick, clean out that
hole and the head of the screw. A blow with compressed air will take the
loosened dirt out. Ensure this dirt does not get into your motor or down
i
From: Jaime Kopchinski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '72 250/8 Carb Removal
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2005 08:35:20 -0400
Hi Michael,
You're in luck... I just did this last weekend! The trick is
'71 220D
'67 250S
Jaime
On Jun 16, 2005, at 10:56 AM, Joseph Shaw wrote:
Hi!
I am seeking some wise old sage advice on this project. It is a '72 250C,
which sat for several years. I am trying to rebuild the carbs, but it
seems QUITE difficult to get the carbs off! Upon
Pkay, the further info is that I am quite upset with the
designers/engineers, etc at Mercedes Benz! I have changed heads on cars
that took less time than it is taking to simply get the carbs off of this
heap!!!
I did read more through the manual, and the best info I could find was that
it
Hi!
I am seeking some wise old sage advice on this project. It is a '72 250C,
which sat for several years. I am trying to rebuild the carbs, but it seems
QUITE difficult to get the carbs off! Upon trying to reach a few of the
bolts/nuts that hold it on, I have come to discover that it may
47 matches
Mail list logo
