>Dan, et al.
> There is a 300TE in white with dark blue interior at the
>local PnP. The rear hatch light-bar is still there as are the visors
>and the passenger door panels. They quoted me $40 for all.
>Over.
>Fred Moir
>Lynn MA
>Sometime junkyard rat.
Fred,
I need the bottom-most piece
OK Don,
I couldn't figure out your naming convention on the digest version, so I've
attached one of your pics and named it 'rightsideup'.
This side of the heat shields should be up, agree?
Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Digest Lurker (on and off) since 2001
'87 300TD 310k miles
'96 Infiniti
Peter and OK Don,
My apologies, I've gotten confused by the terminology.
The picture in procedure 07.1-6810 is not very good, but Peter's description
does fit the picture. I would describe it as the heat shields center raised
lip 'up' so that it contacts the injector face, and then the outer r
>You ARE putting them conical side DOWN, right? The hollow side faces
>the injectors.
Wrong! The conical side faces the injectors so that it is pushed against the
injector face to form a gas tight seal and shield the injector face from the
heat of combustion. The conical side gets deform
Great pics, he's already better looking than his Dad. What Hair!
http://www.okiebenz.com/spencer/spencer/
Thanks for sharing, tell us how his first night at home went.
Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD, 310k miles
Charleston SC
Digest lurker (on and off) since 2001
___
Zogby's latest poll shows McCain/Palin leading Obama/Biden by 4 points,
slightly above the margin of error. Seems to me that the choice of Palin for
VP helped to get more viewers for the Republican convention than the Democrats,
and has also helped A LOT with McCain's poll numbers. I think tha
Bill,
OK, I'm still skeptical and not sure I've got the complete picture. Can you
describe the symptoms of this particular casualty? Did the alternator light
come on? Did the engine overheat? Did the car suddenly develop a new noise
and/or vibration? Can it be driven?
Very respectfully,
/
Bill,
Catching up on digest - forgive if old news.
That darn filter took me a good fifteen minutes of pushing and twisting and
tugging and head scratching. My advice is to take off the end of the return
hose that has the filter attached, so as to minimize dirt entry into tank and
allow better
Dieselvolk,
Catching up on the digest - forgive if old news.
Bill, I think I need more information here. When I read your post, I
understood it to mean that you've got a problem with the driveshaft and maybe a
problem with the transmission (I took the 'harmonic balancers' to mean the
rubber f
Shipmates,
Yesterday I had a few spare hours, so I installed a new control valve
(thanks Rusty - less than $200!!) for the self-leveling system on rear axle
of my '85 300TD. Loaded down the back of the car with ~400lbs, bled it out,
cycled it up and down a few times. Unloaded the car, and th
LT Don,
I'd recommend trying the following:
1) remove cover from PS reservoir.
2) remove plug from bottom of steering box and allow PS fluid to drain (may
need to move steering off dead center to get the flow going)
3) replace filter with new
4) install plug
5) fill with PS fluid (I'll recomen
Well, at least they didn't fill an entire digest with an exchange about
flautulence
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 18:41:59 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] No Start Question My poor 240
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EM
Mick,
First you need to get a diagram of the central locking system. There is one in
the factory service manual, but from what I've heard from others, it's not too
easy to read. Try searching here for that:
http://mb.braingears.com/
Go to the 114/115 link, select your car model/year, go to C
R. Long,
No clue on the gasser problem. A cube-mate just took his newish MB gasser to
the mechanic for a set of tires, diagnosis and reset of check engine light, new
O2 sensor: $1200 please. Enjoy your ride - no way I could afford those kinds
of bills.
Where in the South are you?
Very respe
Dieselvolk,
I'm going to pass on this one. It's in Craigslist for Charleston, with email
and phone number. VIN is 12602210049471. No sign of an importer's plate in
the driver's door well, but I'm sure it is grey market (manual transmission,
cloth/manual seats).
Definitely a project car, bes
Dieselvolk,
Checked out the gasser car tonight. Turns out to be a 1981 280SE, with
cloth seats (manual adjustment), five speed transmission. Mileage is
unknown; odometer stopped at 105k miles long ago. No cruise control.
Lots of problems beyond the electrical issue. Belt for AC compressor
Chris,
Please keep us informed. Steve's reactions are fun to read!!!
LT Don,
Greenpeace secretly wants ships to accidently kill whales so they can keep
banging their luddite drum. One of the few things the French have done
recently that's worth admiring is sinking Rainbow Warrior.
ACLU ha
Shipmates,
This thread reminds me of an old Datsun that I tuned once. I only had a Haynes
manual for it. Procedure for setting the timing was trial and error. Make a
mark on the distributer and one on the mount, so that you can quickly make an
adjustment + or - by sight. Time a run from 0-6
Marshall wrote:"Adding an electrical tach to an OM61x engine that didn't have
one from
the factory COULD be done but it was a complex job that took a lot of
time to implement and wasn't inexpensive unless you collected all the
parts used."
Exactly right. I did this a couple years ago; list me
Mathieu,
Thanks for the great info? I was not aware of the online datacard source -
will check in out later.
Max
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 150k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Donald,
Thanks for the info. I've overcome the same problem of owning a Euro car by
getting a copy of the Euro compact EPC, finding the correct part numbers
myself, and dealing with folks like Rusty and my mechanic who understand the
differences.
I'm hoping that this car really is a Euro with
Marshall,
Thanks for the info. I know remember that the 'E' means fuel injection on this
car - my Dad taught me that once but it was pushed deep into the memory banks
by all the 'D' information I've been gathering.
How will I be able to tell if this engine is a Euro engine with the higher HP?
From: LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Bring me your wagon. No AC needed here.
OK, you got a deal. I'll be there on the 25th, 2010 or so, if you'll make
dinner.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 150k mile
OK, parly answere my own question, 123.033 was available at dealerships if
the MBUSA EPC is correct, with M110.984 engine. Looks like it was
carburated.
However, EPC does not indicate that a manual transmission was available, so
this car still may be a euro.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Mead
Dieselvolk,
In my desperate current desparate state (no AC in my wagon) I'm considering
the purchase of subject named automobile. Price is right, lady is selling
it due to an electrical problem, description of condition indicates a decent
runner with working AC. No idea on the mileage, I'll
Dieselvolk,
Mis-underestimating W again, me thinks...
> I think the Faulkner parody illuminating Bush's inner thoughts and
> inner circle is much funnier than all the stale Clinton jokes... as
> well as being hlghly plausible.
Keep that up, and soon we'll have even more Republicrats in House and
Dan,
You've got my attention! Are you going to report back on changes in fuel
consumption, extended oil drain intervals, burn some WVO, what is the goal
here??
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k mile
Dieselvolk,
I considering the purchase of an MB in NJ, close to NYC. It's a 190D.
Is anyone nearby there willing to take a look at the car for me, and perform a
short test drive? Seller say's it's available for inspection evenings and I
would assume on Saturday.
Contact me off list if anyon
Dieselvolk,
Just read latest issue of C&D this weekend. True to form, gear-heads at C&D
trashed the diesel Liberty because it makes too much noise. Hmmm. It's a
truck. It's 4 wheel drive. It has a motor that makes more noise than a
gas-burner. $3000 premium over V-6 gas engine, but better
Joe,
Thanks for those part #'s and price. I was under the impression that only the
entire linkage was available for .
Perhaps I need to make a call to Rusty
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k
Check it out, looks like a nice car going for a low price...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00022200041871502_W0QQitemZ4565619984QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
No affiliation, no $$$, little common sense.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 3
Dieselvolk,
Yesterday my wagon's rear really started to sag, was down to 11 inches (star to
fender lip) after just a couple hours. When I started the engine, it came up a
bit and then stopped, would not reach 12.75 inches.
So, last night I crawled under to take a look-see, and found that I nee
>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:00:58 -0400
>From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] cleaning glass
>To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>I like the official Mercedes glass clean
The sharks are circling... Kaleb is watching, waiting...
(The Coasty's first pass comes up empty)
Where's the car and how much do you want for it??
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5sp
J.B.,
Ah, I re-re-read and finally I understand. OK, what Marshall said. :)
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC
A little tip gleaned from Doktor MB: Do not ever invert the oil cap; when you
remove it, place it right side up on a rag or paper towel. Try this method and
see if you 'leak' goes away, it worked for me.
If that doesn't work, you can try replacing just the rubber seal (available
from Rusty) or
J.B.,
"The odd thing is that if I add coolant to the cold fill line when the engine
is
cold, it will rapidly drop to about an inch from the bottom of the
reservoir (right around the top of the low coolant sensor, so it blinks on
and off while driving) in a matter of a day or so, and then it st
Shipmate,
When in a similar position, I queried the list and provided my intended route,
and asked for information and POC numbers etc. Several listers responded
privately to let me know either they were available to help with emergencies,
or provided their recommended mechanic's info.
I didn
Marshall et al,
Looked at the car last night - I've decided to pass. Looked horrible inside
and out, drove horrible. The dealer that's selling is willing to negotiate,
but I don't need another project right now. Only redeeming point is that it
has no rust. AC did nothing - wouldn't even blo
Dieselvolk,
I'm going to look at a '86 190D, 250,000, which does not have working AC.
I'm not scared of compressor issues, leaking hoses, etc., but I really don't
want to have to replace an evaporator or do anything under the dash.
Any thoughts from the gurus on most likely suspect for AC with
Joe,
Send an email to:
Arne Sveinung Henriksen - CCA, CLP
GSM voice: +47 900 90 410
GSM fax: +47 940 99 610
www: http://Henriksens.NET/
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
smail: Smiskaret 86A, N-7563 Malvik, Norway
I just exchanged info with him about the Oris hitch he's got on his 124.193.
I'll bet
Gregg,
Catching up on digest - forgive if repeating info.
I recently replaced the master clutch cylinder to repair a similar casualty.
Remember, there is a slave cylinder at the other end of the pipe, that
translates the pressure from the master cylinder into motion to move the
through-out be
Rob S.
Go for it!! Lot's of MB owners (especially the gas driving type) get really
snobby and upset at the thought of an MB sedan towing a trailer.
Your car is rated for 750 kg of un-braked load, 1500 kg of braked load.
I tow a 2000lb sailboat on a steel trailer which probably adds another few
Dieselvolk,
Saturday I spent about five hours rebuilding the SLS control valve and
replacing the accumulators.
The Good News: ride is much improved, and 'bounce test' performance is improved
as well. The left side accumulator had more fluid in it than the right, so I
think that one was the cu
Andrew,
Oh boy, here we go, I knew that statement would draw some flack. At risk of
either enraging or insulting or boring the rest of the list, I'm going to
keep my mouth shut.
There was an interesting article that I read somewhere sometime this past
year (I think) about a study on liberal
DNR = Damn Near Russia, or Department of No Results.
They've gotten much better about wild life management, but are absolutely
diabolical about land grabs. The current fight is about 'who owns the
lake/river/stream bed'? There are WI Supreme Court rulings indicating that
navigable waters (i.e
Dieselvolk,
I'll second and third the motion to get a used original from a recycler. When
I needed one, my Indie was able to procure a used one for $125; still going
strong about 30k miles later, and I expect it will last another 100k miles at
least.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillo
Christopher,
Unfortunately, running into deer is so common there (central WI) that
everyone's got a few stories. I've hit-em in daytime, nighttime, winter,
summer. One of the reasons it's a good idea to carry a firearm is so that you
can put the poor animal out of misery quickly. Once my fa
Russ,
Wow, very small world - probably only one or two degrees of separation between
us. I grew up about 3 miles from Timm's hill (highest point in the state of
WI, 1964 feet, in case the list wants to know). My mother has worked in
Medford at the hospital for years. Yes, the Bee was much mo
Loren,
Cool, that's just up the road from where I grew up! I'd love to own some land
up there now, I'm sure your property value has skyrockted. About 10 years ago
I looked at some lake front property in the Rib Lake area, and was shocked to
find that tiny lots in the middle of no-where on sma
LT Don,
THAT was weak! Kaleb's was much funnier. Try again - we'll make a LCDR of you
yet ;)
(Actually, the promotion is rumored to include a visit to SickBay for a little
procedure involving anatomy best discussed on Banned, but I haven't been
summoned yet)
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Mead
Dieselvolk,
I once hit an eagle while driving a Ford p/u in rural Wisconsin. I was
probably going about 40 mph at the time, accelerating from a stop sign, when it
flew up from the ditch directly into my path. I'd hit it before I could react,
so I let off the gas peddle and watched in the rear
Loren,
Thanks for that bit of confirmation. I may give that a try, if my new
accumulators arrive before Saturday and SWMBO lets me play in the garage this
weekend. I've already got the thicker pads, rebuild kit for the SLS control
valve and a new disc, extra Febi fluid. Would be nice to knoc
Joe,
Great link - Thanks!! Took me awhile to figure out that 124t would be found
under E class, but I found it. I don't have an 'active contacts' at the moment
for a 124t, but it's good to know that I have a source for a hitch should I
need it.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, US
Loren,
Joe's already hit on this - adjusting ride height via control valve is a no-no,
specified method is to replace the spring pads.
Thanks for the info on 'how to remove rear springs', have you done this on a
123?
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'
Don M.,
I question whether this method will work in a diesel: "To check your valve
guides and/or seals find a
very long hill and drive/coast down under compression, creating a large vacuum
draw, at the bottom of the hill apply fuel watch your rear view mirror and if
you get a noticeable puff o
Richard,
Yes, I have to step and lower the mast each time I launch. Rather a hassle,
makes the power boat crowd very curious (but usually they're too polite to
stare and point), and I'm still working on refining the process to get the time
required more reasonable. I once did it in 30 minutes
Richard,
I'm not sure what class it is, it is 20 ft long with a sloop rig. Really a
very enjoyable boat, and so far the cost has been reasonable. My wife and I
are really having fun with it, just wish the heat and humidity would become
more reasonable. The set-up and take-down cycles each ta
David,
Thanks very much for your insight and advice. I'm going to add this email to
my growing file of SLS wisdom ala D. Bruckman. My next move will probably be a
call to Rusty to procure a set of accumulators. After that, I've got to find
the time for this work or decide to pass this on to
Richard,
Thanks for the info. So, your car was also bouncy when the spheres needed to
be replaced? I thought that the failure mode for those was a hard ride, not
bouncy. Is there some valving that goes on inside those? I think that their
function in the system is basically the same as shock
Dieselvolk,
Well, this past weekend I towed my sailboat back and forth from storage to boat
shop to house to boat ramp, and found the experience most unpleasant. Lots of
bouncing, tongue of trailer yanking on the hitch like a wild animal trying to
escape, having to drive real slow on the rough
Andrew, JGiels, here's the story you're dying to hear:
The other day on the way to work my 300TD's alternator, parking brake
and brake wear lights came on. The slight thump in the engine
compartment told me the belt broke, I got it to the side of the road
before it heated up. ( I live in rural
Richard,
Great story - I'm going to throw some zip ties into my car next to the duct
tape. I've got some huge zip ties meant for connecting flexible HVAC ductwork
- would probably only take two to substitute the alternator belt. Sounds like
you bypassed the alternator and just went around the
Dieselvolk,
The one time I played with charging the AC on my wife's Infiniti (R134), the
FTM said that the pressure readings were dependent on the air temperature
passing over the condenser, and there was a chart to show the temperature
and corresponding pressures.
45 psi (low side) might ge
Once again, shoulda listened to that little voice and kept my mouth shut.
There will be a future cartoon containing the words "Reserve" and
"LCDR" -- I just haven't determined the exact phrasing yet.
On 7/22/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
THAT was FUNNY!!! Makes me want to
THAT was FUNNY!!! Makes me want to start reading The Onion again. Also
reminds me to refrain from boastful lies until I've grown skin as thick as
Kaleb's.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles
Just keep rubbing it in, go on, probably only paid $50, right?
Oh yah, and your signature line is not correct - you forgot to update it
with the new bounty.
How's the body - tin worm going strong, or is it a 'rust free southern car'?
Are you interested in donating it for my 5spd conversion/gr
Trampas,
Yes, you've got a good point, I'm trying to keep the cost reasonable ($2000 or
less) so as not to end up with regret.
This car is a grey market import (normally aspirated diesel engine, 5 speed
transmission, leather interior). I spent about $500 to purchase/install a Euro
hitch (1500
Dieselvolk,
Here is the wagon that I looked at last week.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4562798491&fromMakeTrack=true
If anyone would like a copy of the PPI I did, let me know. The seller is being
a little more honest about the condition of the car, but still no
Dieselvolk,
After four years of driving my wagon in hot-n-humid South Carolina, I'm finally
willing to consider installation of an AC system.
Who's got an opinion?
I'm playing with the idea of lifting a manual AC system from a 240D so that I
can keep it stock; problem is finding the time to lo
AMEN to THAT! My vote is also for buying the correct tool, the Hazet with
allen wrench on one end and oil drain plug wrench on the other end. Call Rusty
and spend the ~$20, and save yourself some trouble. The Hazet wrench is curved
so that you get the perfect angle of attack for removing that
Brian,
Grazie! I thought that I'd heard that shared on the list before. The fact
that this car spent most of its life in the N. East may be one of few saving
graces, and only for things like evaporators and dashboards and life of rubber
bits inside the passenger compartment.
Max
Very respec
Marshall,
Have you kept any data on the reliability (or failure rate) for evaporators in
'87 300TDs?
I'm considering the purchase of a poor example of such a fine car, and it's
been abused to the point that the egine has been replaced at least once
(247,000 miles on the odometer). One of the
Euan,
Catching up on digest - forgive if already covered.
I don't think that the estate engine was 'de-tuned' compared to the sedan.
True, the SLS pump would be a parasitic loss that the sedan wouldn't have
unless it had the SLS option. I think the bigger difference is the weight and
the win
Mitch,
I think that it is possible for this car to get pretty close to 110 mph,
certainly it will exceed 100. My '85 wagon with 320k miles on it, with same
engine and transmission as this car, has reached an indicated 107 mph in 5th
gear (will go faster in 4th gear but I didn't know that befor
Jan,
Thanks for those links. Curiously, the hitches-4-less link says that it's
rated for 3500 lbs, fits the 300 class SEDANS, including the 300TD. I'll
probably have to call them to see which is the real story.
As far as the metric vs. english problem, I've got a metric (50 mm) hitch on my
1
Dieselvolk,
(note - cross posted at Rusty's forum)
Yesterday I test drove an 87 300TD, ~250k miles. However, engine has paint
markings indicating it is a replacement engine (where's the serial number on
these motors - left side, down low, close to firewall?). Point is, the tranny
may have been
Dieselvolk,
OK, I've dug into the Euro EPC Compact and found plenty of info, including
diagrams of the factory hitch, part #'s, and reference to the 1900 kg rating.
So, given that these would fit a 124.193 in Europe, will the same parts fit
into a 124.193 in US spec?
Has anyone searched the MB
Casey, Joe, Loren;
Keep those idea's flowing! It's curious that the 'hitches-4-less' says it's a
class 2, only rated for 2500 lbs, but their FAQ says that class 2 hitches are
rated for 3500 lbs. Hmmm - I guess the manufacturer has downgraded it for this
application?
Joe: I've got the 1985 Te
Darrell and Joe,
Thanks for the info. My last choice will be to purchase an aftermarket hitch
and have it installed by a local shop that has earned my respect (they
installed the hitch on my 123.190, fabricating missing parts as required using
the pictures from German language installation ins
Juan,
My euro 300TD is non-turbo. There was no option from MB to have a turbo engine
and manual transmission in the 123 series, but it is possible to combine the
two if one is so inclined. I drove an example of such last fall at the Rusty-Q
in Atlanta; the real secret is to use a complete dri
Shipmates (esp. Der Dieseling Doktor, Dave M., Casey, and other 124 wagon
owners/experts);
I checked out an '87 300TD this evening, and I'm considering making an offer to
buy. The burning question of the moment is 'Can I get a factory trailer hitch
for this thing?'
Anyone who can help, I'd re
Shipmates,
Here's a datapoint: trucking traffic here in Charleston SC (major shipping
port) has dramatically increased in the last 6 months, so I'd be willing to bet
that demand is up across the country. When I moved here in '99, just a few
months before the bubble burst, truck traffic was hug
Gerry,
Attached are diagrams from EPC (electronic parts catalog, Euro Compact version)
which will be stripped from the list. I've assumed that you have a 716.214
manual transmission? There's a couple other choices - let me know if I guessed
wrong. The transmission number is on the vehicle da
Shipmates,
I've located an '87 300TD for sale, and the price is right, but I need to get
smart on what the weak spots are.
According to the owner, the car has some rust but it's been fixed. The car is
originally from MA. What are the typical places to look for rust? If there's
some cosmetic ru
Jeff and David,
Thanks for the explanation - I was operating under the misperception that
because it's very difficult to import cars from Canada to US unless they're
more than 25 years old, you had a completely different selection of cars
available up there.
When I was in Italy several years a
Jeff,
How the heck does that work? Are you saying that Canada's misfortune of
sharing a border with the US restricts the availability of new car models?
>Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2005 14:36:26 -0400
>From: Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Re: 2005 MBCA-Toronto Concours d'Elegance
>To
Craig,
Looks like a very neat car. Two things I notice: no A/C, and one headlight is
'euro' while the other is not. You may be able to live w/out the A/C (I've
been w/out A/C for about five years here in Charleston), and the un-matched
headlight may be due to breakage from a rock w/ replaceme
Lee,
That will depend on how quickly your engine produces soot, which depends on
driving conditions as well as engine type.
As a data point, my engine will reach the 2% soot limit after about 4500 miles
of mixed city/highway, and will probably go over 5000 miles of highway driving
before reach
Bill,
I'm not an expert by any means, but I've been tinkering with a '73 Mercury 110
lately.
I'm going to assume it's a 2 cycle motor. I'd replace the spark plugs (take a
look inside the cylinders for rust or junk and clean out if possible) and clean
out the fuel line and the carburator bowl
Kabel: Kain and Abel in one!
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
'85 300TD 321k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 148k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC
Andrew wrote:
My dream is that technological breakthroughs will lead to ever more
clever ways to harness the power of the sun (photovoltaics), foster
energy conservation, and reduce emissions from the use of fossil
fuels. There are even some intriguing developments in nuclear power
that were unfore
Kaleb,
On the digest version I got the following:
-- next part --
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injection.
Jim Friesen wrote:
Craig, it will either have an ADA (pressure chamber) or a manual screw
adjustment in place of the ADA. Only 74 and earlier diesels (the ones with
butterfly plates in the inlets) did not have ADAs, to my knowledge
Look again, please, and tell us what's on the top of your IP at
Still catching up...
Dave M. wrote:
Your point about the variation is excellent, though. Add to that the
people who pull off the needles to replace their gauge faces, or modify the
gauge
cluster, therefore negating the factory calibration and easily inducing a
possible 0-5
degree inaccuracy...
Catching up on digest - forgive if old news.
Marshall Booth wrote:
Did you fill the cooling system thru the top hose? If not, the added
heat MAY be from an air bubble in the cooling system. No idea how long
before it will work out and you'll notice that the coolant level is low,
but it can take mo
Dieselvolk,
Following provided as a data point for those who believe their motors run at
the correct temp (85 - 90 C).
A couple weeks ago I changed coolant, installed a new thermostat and ran a can
of diesel purge. I immediately noticed that the engine ran smoother. Shortly
thereafter I noti
Rusty, that's because if you read it twice you _may_ be able to remember it
once.
(I couldn't resist - with my meager deck of cards I only get to play a trump
card once a year or so!)
LCDR Max
From: "Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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