Is it worth going to some better lenses, maybe pentax? Or better quality
sigma? Suggestions?
I am doing alot of portrait photo's, though I love my macro and night
shots, maybe a bit of scenery.
Also helping a friend with their wedding photography.
-
Depends on your budget, I cannot recom
Kodak used to supply a deevelopment kit for their digital cameras. (I
down loaded it once, it seemed to be quite primitive).
Graywolf wrote:
Why not just download the firmware update and browse through it? I
would bet you could figure out enough from it to hack the camera.
Calculators allow yo
It depends on the cost differential of course, as well as rarity. After
cleaning the lens will most likely never be the same.
Malcolm Smith wrote:
Assuming there was a rare lens which you had the opportunity to buy -
hypothetically - would it be worth buying relatively cheaply and hoping it
will
Herb, congratulations from me too. The images are all stunning, and
especially the one that won the Grand Prize. I like these a lot.
Joe
Previous posts:
DPreview is right. Delay is NOT mirror lock up ... not even close in
terms of control.
Shel
> From: Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Incidentally, Dpreview's statement that it lacks mirror lock-up, while
> the *ist D has it, is wrong. Both have the 2-second delay option,
> fu
Michel Carrère-Gée wrote:
Christian a écrit :
William Robb wrote on 9/21/2004, 12:07 PM:
>
> LX, and Super Program for sure. It's done via a window that projects
> a view of the aperture ring into the finder.
>
> William Robb
>
>
LX and MX for sure. Super Program does not have a little window. At
Never heard of Kenneth Noland ;-))
Mike's stopped typing to me about six months ago. Now if I can only get
him to stop calling
But Ann, I thought you knew I had ventian blinds and plaster walls.
Shel
> From: Ann Sanfedele <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~digisnaps/sunset.ht
Don't recall ever saying that. Don't use short strokes except in very rare
instances ... can't recall when I've last done that.
Shel
> From: Stan Halpin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Shel has said that he does not fully wind but uses a series of short
> strokes. I think this causes the inaccuracies.
no, it's not one of the ones i have tried. in addition to iseemedia
PhotoVista (i have been using it since 1.32), PanoVue Image Assembler, Ulead
Cool 360, VR Toolbox PanoWorx, i've tried at least 3 or 4 other programs.
PhotoVista is the best of the inexpensive ones. of the programs i have tried
on
Hi All.
Well the Markham fair photo contest dead line is Saturday. I have my digital turned
35mm
print outs
ready,i have my 6 hand made B&W prints and just got back my 3 MF colour prints
today.Resizing my
digital entries as we speak.
Submitting
Hi Bruce ...
You've recommended the Impressa before, and I've used it a few times. I
like it, and if there were some in the freezer, that would probably been my
choice. However, I'm relegated to using what's on hand today and making a
choice between the films mentioned.
Shel
> From: Bruce Da
Like I said in my last post, there is nothing esoteric
about single exposures or the ability to compose and
see what your photograph is going to look like before
you take it. There is nothing esoteric about a subject
in or out of focus. I have a lot of experience with
LF cameras and know what they
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~digisnaps/sunset.html
>
> Something a little different ;-))
Like Kenneth Noland, do ya Shel???
When I read the subject line, I was going to tease
the hell out of you and say something like "well
good thing it isnt a flower or Mike JOhnson will
Shel.
Reala. I've never been impressed with superior. Local lab seemed to always print soft
and
magenta.
Dave.
> Need a quick answer if you can. Which have
you found
to be the sharper,
> more detailed color film: Fuji Reala or Fuji Superior? Have yo
The cameras from a certain company
Were once worth every penny
Now they s**k
But we don't give a ...
Because we won't ever buy any
Butch Black wrote:
Gotta play.
There once was a Pentaxian list
The digest oft lost in the mist
Off topics were many
Could bet your last penny
That someone eventually go
Gotta play.
There once was a Pentaxian list
The digest oft lost in the mist
Off topics were many
Could bet your last penny
That someone eventually got pissed
Butch
What is it? Sunset on a wall?
Jim A.
> From: "Shel Belinkoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 19:08:01 -0700
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: PAW - Sunset, 6:06PM
> Resent-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Resent-Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:08:02 -0400
>
> htt
Canceled. Seems they shared the sensor with the late un-lamented Contax
FF 6mp digital, which proved to be a technological and economic disaster.
Kevin Waterson wrote:
What ever happened to the Pentax full frame digital?
http://www.imaging-resource.com/EVENTS/PMAS01/982079635.html
Kind regards
K
HAR. There's only one true world wide valid interesting theme, but I
won't dare to mention it.
Rob Studdert wrote:
On 22 Sep 2004 at 22:14, Caveman wrote:
C'mon guys what about a Halloween PUG theme ?
You might find that it's just a little exclusive as a choice for a world wide
theme.
On 22 Sep 2004 at 22:14, Caveman wrote:
> C'mon guys what about a Halloween PUG theme ?
You might find that it's just a little exclusive as a choice for a world wide
theme.
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT) +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au
This suspiciously looks like the job a local lab did to my films before
I had enough of it and bought a digicam ;-)
Just kidding. Nice shot.
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
http://home.earthlink.net/~digisnaps/sunset.html
Something a little different ;-))
I have been following this thread with some interest, but it has
become exceedingly tiresome. Too many of you are witing about
actual experience, rather than esoteric theory. It appears that
Mr. O'Connell is right, and the rest of you guys are full of crap.
I know that because he tells us so, ov
C'mon guys what about a Halloween PUG theme ?
Gosh lets not go into that discussion. This is all subjective. I liked a
lot Larry's photo, if you didn't it's your opinion and you're entitled
to have and that's it.
John C. O'Connell wrote:
How is an out of focus image "pleasing to the eye"?
http://home.earthlink.net/~digisnaps/sunset.html
Something a little different ;-))
What you describe is totally different and much
better solution. In that case they don't have to
pan which is much better. But being tied down in
a studio is not very useful for nature photography.
Still not a substitute for a lightweight field LF
film camera for nature
JCO
-Original Mess
How is an out of focus image "pleasing to the eye"?
That is what will happen if the circlar "plane" of
focus doesn't have enough depth of field on a flat
object. As far as technical accuracy goes, why stitch
if the goal isnt a higer resolution image and if
you're out of focus you wont achieve it n
JCO,
Assuming EVERYTHING you say is absolutely correct, so what!? Larry is
getting the results he wants using the technique and gear that works for
him. So, what's the big deal?
One thing that you must remember is that Larry's photographing out west,
where the vistas and distances and scenery a
i was in a Detroit studio the other day where a lot of cars are shot
for magazine ads and brochurs. They were shooting with a Cambo 4x5
camera and a back that was fitted with four digital sensors. Each was
around 7 megapixels I would guess, because the final image was 60
megapixels raw. The di
JCO,
You're perhaps right. And, if we were into forensics photography,
probably all the technical accuracy would matter a lot, but here it was
just about some arteestec shot, what really counts is that the image is
pleasing to our eyes and not how many planes of focus were actually
stitched the
How about a SINGLE exposure? (Decisive Moment)
How about selective DOF?
How about lower distortion?
How about camera movements?
How about accurate composition on the ground glass.
How about a true Plane of focus at ANY distance?
There's probably a whole lot more too
Those reasons above are hug
That sounds like fun, or is that just bizarre...
Caveman wrote:
Only problem would be with portraits. Unless you stuff your models
first that is.
William Robb wrote:
- Original Message - From: "Rob Studdert"
Subject: RE: help on sale of large format lenses
Just remember however, there's
Thanks everyone for all the good tips!
My eyes and ears are open.
Don
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Sanderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 5:20 PM
> To: PDML
> Subject: Long, Fast Glass-Where to Buy?
>
>
> Now that I'm in a position to purchase a cou
Herb, have you checked out Panorama Maker from Arcsoft?
Kenneth Waller
- Original Message -
From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Large Format vs. Digital/Stitching
> another couple of good sites are www.panoramic.net and www.panoguide.com.
> i'm thinking about getting Re
Wrong , you cant correct an out of focus planar subject
taken with techniques that have spherical or cylindrical
"planes of focus" after the fact with software.
The photo on that page neither has a near field
planar subject nor a very wide "panning" angle
looking at the subject. I don't see what
On 22 Sep 2004 at 20:59, J. C. O'Connell wrote:
> I repeat, this curved field issue has nothing
> to do with the lenses, It's the FILM/SENSOR
> rotation that is causing it, so why the
> references to macro lenses, etc
I made the reference to macro lenses not Herb, I was being facetious. As y
Larry is selling all his large format equipment because stitching is better
for him than LF. if you want to define the small area where a 4x5 camera is
still superior as the only thing that matters to you, go right ahead. the
examples shown and discussed are none of those.
Herb...
- Original M
Also, Nodal point has NOTHING to due with the
curved field due to panning. The curved
field is there where you pan on the node or
not.
JCO
-Original Message-
From: Herb Chong [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 7:03 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Large
William Robb wrote:
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Peter J. Alling"
> Subject: Re: Back - and stormy
>
> > From what I know of the Nobel committees choices for the last few
> > years, I think I choose William Robb and Greywolf, at least they
> > don't let Ideology get in the way of obs
The whole point of stitching is HIGH resolution.
If the subject goes out of focus due to curved
or spherical field you defeat the whole purpose
of doing the stitching in the first place.
DUH.
And a lens doesn't have to be wide open for
the subject to go out of focus.
-Original Message--
On 22 Sep 2004 at 19:46, Cotty wrote:
> What is the published operating temp range (say) of the *ist D?
AFAIK they have never published it (Pentax non-comittal?) it does however have
time setttings for 62 cities over 28 time zones.
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)
going to have to keep looking and looking. you'll be looking for the *
lenses. they are rare and go fast, not to mention pricey. both lenses you
mention in AF mount will be a couple of thousand in good shape. MF won't be
much cheaper. the 500/4.5 is too hard to deal with for wildlife if it is the
m
most electronic components work better when cooled a lot. this is what they
do to run very fast computers. liquid nitrogen cooled, even.
Herb...
- Original Message -
From: "Cotty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "pentax list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 2:46 PM
Subject
Peter,
Quite right about the LX, which I should not have included in the list.
I'm also wrong about the FAJ lenses, which I had thought were introduced
at the time of the MZ-50. However, the MZ-50 was a portent of things to
come, and the FAJ lenses were bound to follow.
John
On Wed, 22 Sep 20
given the number of people who actually use a 1Ds at temperatures below 0C,
i would say that it's not a hard a fast rule, while the power issue is.
Herb...
- Original Message -
From: "Rob Studdert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 10:34 AM
Su
Ah, I see. So the random chance of an LX going cheap
on ebay was my "enablement" ;)
Now I just need to be "enabled" with some more glass
(20-ish, 85, 200, 300) and a motor drive. ;)
__
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messag
Ah..., Use a new Q-tip each time. Obvious to me, but maybe not to others.
--
Graywolf wrote:
Use alcohol (Everclear is best, but isopropyl will work) on a Q-tip
(cotton swab on a stick). Do not press down, just the weight of the
Q-tip is all. Then use the other end to wipe the alcohol off. Repeat
I've been very happy with the Pentax Digital Spotmeter which is Zone VI
modified. You might want to consider that for critical B&W work.
The meter is small, it's accurate, it can be tripod mounted, you can add a
filter in front of the lens just as you can in front of a camera lens, you
can get a
why is this relevant? do you shoot wide open all the time? as for close vs
far, it depends on how much care you take in finding the nodal point and how
good your lens is. if you have nothing close, the nodal point pretty much
doesn't matter. i'm a couple of centimeters off the nodal point on my
pan
another couple of good sites are www.panoramic.net and www.panoguide.com.
i'm thinking about getting RealViz Stitcher to replace my current program,
iseemedia PhotoVista. PhotoVista is the best of the inexpensive programs.
Stitcher is one of the best programs for the PC. QuickTime VR Studio is
high
their gear is about the middle of the price range for VR panorama gear. i
used to have a pair of Kaidan pan heads. i gave one to a good friend of mine
in return for a favor and the other is mostly retired. i use a RRS pan clamp
with the B-16 adapter bracket for now. i may drop the adapter bracket w
Hi everyone,
Just stopping in to say hi!
Things are totally crazy for me at the moment. I was away last weekend for
4 days (thurs, fri, sat, sun), shooting two weddings and a Debutante Ball.
Home for Monday and Tuesday, and then off again yesterday (Wednesday) to
shoot some PR shots for a mine t
I did not see the original post of this. I am flattered, even if Peter
can not spell graywolf correctly. Gee, Bill, I always thought you and I
were just smart-asses...
GRIN!
--
William Robb wrote:
- Original Message -
From: "Peter J. Alling"
Subject: Re: Back - and stormy
From what I
My suggestion is to look for a Tamron 300/2.8 or 400/4.0 (adaptall) since you don't
need AF. I have a 300/2.8 AF version (same glass as the MF version) that I was
extremely lucky to find at a local dealer. Generally they show up on ebay at decent
prices. This is a link to a current auction:
h
Use alcohol (Everclear is best, but isopropyl will work) on a Q-tip
(cotton swab on a stick). Do not press down, just the weight of the
Q-tip is all. Then use the other end to wipe the alcohol off. Repeat
until the mirror is clean.
I repeat do no put pressure on the Q-tip.
--
Sarbu Alexandru wr
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 21:26:21 +1000, Ryan Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Interesting feel to it Frank.. First impression is that of a crime scene
> photo- I guess I'm not too far off.. it's a bit of a crime isn't it! Would
> have liked to have seen a coloured one too- any in your collection?
>
>
Wratten 90 filter.
Shel Belinkoff
"People that hate cats will come back as mice in their next life."
> [Original Message]
> From: Karen Clanin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 9/22/2004 11:58:23 AM
> Subject: a question re: b & w..
>
> can anyone tell me what those litt
Now that I'm in a position to purchase a couple of REALLY nice lenses, I'm
not finding any for sale!
Looking for something along the lines of a 300/2.8 or 400/4.
AF/MF is of second importance to quality and speed.
Where should I look? Any suggestions?
Tried KEH, Adorama, B+H, a general internet sea
On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:48:27 -0400, Paul Stenquist
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Nice shot. It's the classic abandoned classic. It appears to be quite
> restorable. Is it an early sixties Jag S-Type?
> Paul
Hi Paul,
Glad you liked the photo. I think it's a Jag Series IV Saloon. I've
always thoug
Hi,
Wednesday, September 22, 2004, 7:50:23 PM, Karen wrote:
> can anyone tell me what those little round pieces of thick blue acrylic are
> called? you look through them to make everything look like a monochrome to
> see values etc which are not as obvious when you look at things in color
> and
And I would like to THANK YOU for spelling my name correctly!
Tom C.
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Back - and stormy
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 15:08:30 -0600
- Original Message -
From: "Peter J. Alling"
Subject: Re:
- Original Message -
From: "Peter J. Alling"
Subject: Re: Back - and stormy
> From what I know of the Nobel committees choices for the last few
> years, I think I choose William Robb and Greywolf, at least they
> don't let Ideology get in the way of observation.
Shucks.
I'd like to tha
- Original Message -
From: "Andy Chang"
Subject: Spot meter
> Hi guys,
> I'm in need of a spot meter for my Fuji GW670iii.
> I'm just wondering which one I should get...
> The Pentax digital spotmeter or the Minolta Spotmeter F?...
Both are very good. The one thing Minolta does well is
Monovue
http://www.srbfilm.co.uk/publish/page14.html
Karen Clanin wrote:
can anyone tell me what those little round pieces of thick blue acrylic
are called? you look through them to make everything look like a
monochrome to see values etc which are not as obvious when you look at
things in col
It's a subtle abstract 8-)
Jostein wrote:
Ryan wrote:
http://home.iprimus.com.au/heygoose/pineapple1s.jpg (shot on good ol Reala)
Mike W. replied:
Hedgehog orgy! Or Spencer Tunnick shoots hedgehogs. I like abstracts
that suggest something.
Me too... Don't see the suggestion of orgy in th
You cant compensate after the fact with
software if the plane of focus does not
match the subject. i.e. if the subject
was a flat front of a building and the
shooting technique results in a "plane of focus"
of a sphere instead of a plane.
JCO
-Original Message-
From: Gonz [mailto:[EMAIL
Hi,
Andre Langevin wrote:
The LX I had with me gave a strange sensation when cranked during the
rainy days. Friction was felt as in the need of lubrication. (I know
it does not as this is probably a ball bearing mechanism.)
Sounds like a bearing is breaking up. Definitely service time, as the
Hi,
I agree. When using it "by hand" I tend to fully wind with one stroke
and then give it another push to make sure. I assume that my winder
needs servicing.
Stan Halpin wrote:
Shel has said that he does not fully wind but uses a series of short
strokes. I think this causes the inaccuracies.
> Ryan wrote:
> > http://home.iprimus.com.au/heygoose/pineapple1s.jpg (shot on good ol Reala)
> Mike W. replied:
> Hedgehog orgy! Or Spencer Tunnick shoots hedgehogs. I like abstracts
> that suggest something.
Me too... Don't see the suggestion of orgy in this one though...;-)
Cheers,
Jostei
That would be interesting to see (the selective focus shot).
Much of the field curvature may not be as significant as the geometric
distortions. From what I've seen, its just a projection, and in fact is
probably better compensated by software than can be by a lens of the
equivalent focal lengt
Cotty wrote:
>
> On 22/9/04, Jon M, discombobulated, unleashed:
>
> >I've noticed that people tend to post
> >"Enabled:whatever" when they aquire new equipment.
> >That doesn't really match the definition of "enabled"
> >I have in my head, is there some PDML-specific
> >significance of this word?
This one time, at band camp, "Andy Chang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi guys,
> I'm in need of a spot meter for my Fuji GW670iii.
> I'm just wondering which one I should get...
> The Pentax digital spotmeter or the Minolta Spotmeter F?...
> Any advice?
If it were my money, I would go for the P
Yes, I have a PC machine. Mac tools just can't help me.
Matja
> I guess you're talking about PC monitors?? I'm using an Apple Cinema
> Display on a Mac G4 dual 1.25. I set my color space to Colorsynch
> Generic RGB. My monitor is an exact match for my prints. I previously
> used a CRT, a Sony T
Dave, thanks for reply.
> LCDs are pretty difficult to calibrate. In general you don't get any
> control over the colour temperature - it's fixed by the backlight.
Yep. I've noticed that. Poor temperature control. Seems now that a
LCD dedicated spyder is the only way to go. Al least for a PC ba
Thanks. I was hoping there is some magic touch out there which can
get you closer to a proper calibration. But obviously there are no
shortcuts. It is a pity because I really don't have a proper feeling
for postprocessing on LCD right now. On CRT I was able to adjust a
photograph close to my li
Andy,
I have a Fuji GW670ii, and occasionally use a Spiratone SP-1 spot meter - it
works fine. Most of the time, I use a Sekonic Studio Deluxe II L-398M
incident light meter with the GW670ii, and also with my Pentax 35mm cameras
when the light is tricky or the image has a dark or light bias. For
The mirror can be scratched easily, but not so easily like the plastic focus
screen. To clean the mirror, I use Kodak Lens Tissue and folded it up into
small piece and held by a tweezer, then applied some pure isopropyl alcohol
(found in drug stores) on the tissue to wipe the mirror with minimal
On 22/9/04, Jon M, discombobulated, unleashed:
>I've noticed that people tend to post
>"Enabled:whatever" when they aquire new equipment.
>That doesn't really match the definition of "enabled"
>I have in my head, is there some PDML-specific
>significance of this word?
Jon, go on eBay right now a
This is a forwarded message
From: Fiso_PENTAX <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: pentax-discuss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2004, 10:39:41 AM
Subject: still_enabled
===8<==Original message text===
Hello All,
> Out of curiosity, have you tried tekade.de or somethi
Hi,
Wednesday, September 22, 2004, 6:55:09 PM, Jon wrote:
> I've noticed that people tend to post
> "Enabled:whatever" when they aquire new equipment.
> That doesn't really match the definition of "enabled"
> I have in my head, is there some PDML-specific
> significance of this word?
yes. We ha
can anyone tell me what those little round pieces of thick blue acrylic are
called? you look through them to make everything look like a monochrome to
see values etc which are not as obvious when you look at things in color
and take it in b & w.
i have my husbands but want to get one for a fri
On 23/9/04, Rob Studdert, discombobulated, unleashed:
>L-ion batteries work effectively down to about -20 deg C, TFTs and LCDs
>on the
>other hand don't like the cold (normal temp range LCDs and TFTs generally
>work
>down to only 0deg C). So I'd assume that the operating temp limit specs were
>
Jon M wrote:
I've noticed that people tend to post
"Enabled:whatever" when they aquire new equipment.
That doesn't really match the definition of "enabled"
I have in my head, is there some PDML-specific
significance of this word?
It means that someone has bought a new toy. :-)
/Henri
Alex,
you can rub as long as you want with a piece of cotton towel. The ME Super
mirror coating is quite sturdy, unlike the silver coating on really old
cameras. Even if you scratched the mirror it would not matter - you would
not see a difference in the viewfinder.
So, just rub away, but don't a
Tequila is Mexican Juan's Columbian.
Keith Whaley wrote:
Graywolf wrote:
Doesn't bother me. I am a Finn on my mothers side.
Aha! That says a lot! Dorsal or ventral?
Although I heard from her Aunts and Uncles that a lot of the people
living in Finland are Swedes (actually, they always said, "G
Yeah, that's basically it. A tight corner on a two lane mountain road.
About maybe 200ft of visibility in either direction to watch for traffic.
Even pulled over as far as possible, I was taking up half my lane, meaning
when cars came by in my lane they had to cross the center line to get by.
Good idea... Let's call ity SYNC.
Tom C.
From: "mike.wilson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: PESO suggestion
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 10:57:29 +0100
Hi,
I'm probably in a minority of one here but
I used to really like the "Sy
You didn't have to point that out Keith :)
Tom C.
From: Keith Whaley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: National symbols
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 03:08:02 -0700
Tom C wrote:
I was in Starbucks today. I was late for work. I was grouchy and in a
Good idea... Let's call ity SYNC.
Tom C.
From: "mike.wilson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: PESO suggestion
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 10:57:29 +0100
Hi,
I'm probably in a minority of one here but
I used to really like the "Sy
But what do I know? :)
Tom C.
I think the Superia has a sharper look than Reala. Whether is is
sharper is anyones guess.
Well, perhaps a bit less of a guess...
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrobb/Film%20test/FujiReala.jpg
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrobb/Film%20test/FujiRealares.jpg
http://users
Hello Shel,
Another film to put on your short list is Konica Impressa 50. Depends
on the project. The Konica seems to do a bit better with scenics,
while the Reala seems a bit better on people. I used both quite a
bit.
--
Best regards,
Bruce
Wednesday, September 22, 2004, 7:21:28 AM, you wr
I would go with Reala. I have always been greatly impressed with the detail
and color rendition. That's my $.02.
Tom C.
From: "Shel Belinkoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Sharpest Color Film
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 07:21:28 -0700
Need a quick
Wow. The MLU idea is a great one and probably pretty simple to do also.
rg
Rob Studdert wrote:
On 22 Sep 2004 at 14:18, Steve Jolly wrote:
This is pure speculation, but I suspect that what Pentax have done is
performed the Bayer interpolation with 16-bit precision and then kept
the extra inform
CLA.
William Robb
It's been CLA'ed a year ago...
I'd suggest that it's typical of the LX ... while the camera is "supposed"
to be very precise, I've never had one that was...
Shel
Surprising...
Shel has said that he does not fully wind but uses a series of short
strokes. I think this causes the
The RG25 would likely be the winner. You shouldn't have a problem if it's
been frozen. Doesn't the color fidelity of color film usually suffer the
most over time?
Next choice would be the Superior. There isn't a difference in sharpness
between the Superior and Reala, but there is in color renderi
This is a realy good shot, and very amusing.
Boris Liberman wrote:
Hi!
Among other things I've spent some time in Oslo just walking around
and trying to catch the moment. Here is one attempt:
http://www.webaperture.com/gallery/photos/48074
Any and all comments from those who are more experienced in
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004, Robert Woerner wrote:
> I vote for Reala from personal experience. It is my sharp color print film
> of choice since Kodak Royal Gold 100 disappeared...man I liked that film.
Have you tried the newer Kodak offering (Royal Supra)? I don't like
its colours as much as I like S
You may well be right...
All the more reason to hang onto my 135mm f/3.5...
keith
Jim Colwell wrote:
Henri,
I often use a Kiron 75-150/4 for the same purpose. I'm convinced that the
subject's comfort level for informal portraits and candids at gatherings of
family and friends is inversely proporti
William,
I guess, I am, Mr A has taken a particular dislike to me, which I don't
mind since I've killfiled the A***, I'd much rather
argue about Photography with people I like than anything with an
obnoxious abrasive A***. The only time I see his posts
is when others reply to them. I us
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004, Peter J. Alling wrote:
> Could people please put Antonio's name in the subject if they respond to
> him. I'd like my filter to catch it so I don't have to even see his
> spew.
You won't be able to make people comply with that. I'll give you another
tip, though. Most mail s
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