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good luck
ted
On Saturday, May 17, 2014 3:45:40 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Compared with the brakes on my Hunqapillar, the Quickbeam’s brakes feel
squishy. They could use some tightening, but not by much (and are worn
about half way). Possible causes I could think of:
— New pads
Actually I think the old is 120, so those antique campi qrs from the late 70s
probably
Work
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I have a baggins country bag (May be similar to the little joe) that would work
very well. I'm not parting with mine but perhaps you can find one. The old
style bagman support woks very well with this relatively square bag, affixed to
the support there is zero sway and zero thigh contact.
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My simple one is 120, and the RBW geometry charts say 120 for the so. I would
be surprised if the qb was wider, but i guess I'm not really certain.
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As long as the end of the catilever is above the pivot lowering the stradle
increases the mech advantage.
The static force analysis is cleaner if you do it with vertical and
horizontal components.
The vertical force at the cantilever end is always 1/2 the tension in the
brake cable, and that
Do I recall correctly that Jan has said elsewhere that the EL casings were
developed from the mfg's high end tubular casing?
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Most likely, perhaps the weight off you would seem a bigger difference for
esoteric and dubious reasons. To first order a lb is a lb, be it love handles
on you, a jar in a bag, or part of your bike.
The siren call of component and frame weight obsession is in close quarters
with the lure of
the road comment: I concur
that supple tires are great. I am very pleased with the GB tires I am
currently using. When they wear out I expect I will buy new Compass tires
to replace them. But that is a bit off topic.
ted
* It's just like a Nifty Swifty without the extra ultra-duty casing
I think that depends on what your idea of hugely lighter is. I think
steel forks weigh about 1.5 lbs. and that reasonably strong carbon forks
weighing half that can be produced. Perhaps cutting the weight of a part in
half is huge, perhaps shaving less than a pound on a roughly 200 pound
If you include the rubber in your definition of casing. I am fairly sure
research has shown that slick tires have less rolling resistance than tires
with a modest tread (I can't speak to the size of the difference though).
Similarly tread compound has been shown to have an impact.
Tires with
.
Do you know of folks measuring the suppleness and hysteresis
characteristics of tire casing material? How is suppleness quantified?
thnks
Ted
On Friday, May 9, 2014 2:04:49 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
We didn't test the Jack Browns, but we did test the Nifty-Swifty and
Maxy-Fasty, which
Hey all. Thanks for the help.
Ted
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you use on bearings etc?
thanks for the help
Ted
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I am 5'9 with a 32 inseam. My 56 QB fit is spot on
Ted
On Monday, April 28, 2014, Michael Fleischman michaeljfleisch...@gmail.com
wrote:
Good Afternoon,
I was curious if anyone could help me with sizing me up for a QUickbeam.
My PBH is 85.5 and I inseam is 32. I currently ride a 59cm AHH
you get it all sorted out satisfactorily soon
ted
On Saturday, April 26, 2014 7:00:01 AM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
Mike, sigh, you're saying what I suspected but didn't want to hear: it's
just harder to push those big wheels up a hill. I'm already thinking about
trying 2.3 tires, though
ways to go
about it, and I certainly wouldn't buy one just to use it once or twice.
regards
ted
On Saturday, April 26, 2014 8:15:31 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Good point Ted. There is the simplest way I knw to directly compare gear
inches or ratios, and no GPS required. (Sheldon, of course
Jeremy wrote:
... And I think this is further reinforced by the type of riding featured
in MTB magazines and videos: high speed, big jumps, riding up and down
ledgy technical features. ...
To which I would like to add (despite veering off topic a bit), this is why
I don't think of, or refer
can't be the answer. I'm already below the
Rohloff minimum. I can't go lower.
On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 8:07 AM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:wrote:
Anne,
You have a wonderful new bike and one of its unique features is the
ability to accommodate really big tires. I'd think you would want
http://bike.duque.net/review-the-magnic-lights.htm
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for a show display
frame that's been ridden a lot. Contact me off list for details.
Ted Durant
Rona Components
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% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some
documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and
probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.
thnks
Ted
p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation
pressure
Glad you had a great time outside yesterday. May you have another today.
No worries on being grouchy, and no apologies needed. Frankly I didn't
detect much grouch in your post. Way in bounds of the norm around here.
regards
Ted
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:07:56 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote
hope you enjoy figuring out what works best for you and your preferences.
regards
Ted
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:36:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
Deacon, I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md.,
all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too
Have you found any documentation of a substantive basis (not just an appeal to
authority) for the oft repeated assertion that 15% tire drop gives an optimal
trade off of rolling resistance and comfort?
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In my last exchange with Jan he asserted rolling resistance was basically i
dependent of tire pressure, baring riding flat tires and very high pressures
(or maybe it was ultra high). I don't think he mentioned 15% drop.
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I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be incompetent but
I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as an optimum.
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Please remember there is a lot more going on with a bike than just the
wheel size. For example smaller wheeled bikes tend to have less bottom
bracket drop. Comparing the 650b and 700c hillsens, the drop differs by
13mm. The difference in bsd between the two wheel sizes is 38mm, so the
radius
The tires don't stink, though they may not be the sort of tires you like.
Apparently some folks like uber stout bomb proof tires, and some others
prefer the lightest supplest tires they can find. Unless I missed it you
have not said what tires you use on your Atlantis.
I have a bike with 650b
Philip, pray tell what are the tooth counts on your dingle and rings, and
what % grade are the climbs you ride?
On Monday, March 31, 2014 11:38:31 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
I think riding my Quickbeam fixed on singletrack is fantastic fun.
You'd be looking at cyclocross tires for
That's twice 1.5, which is what one tooth on the ring does, and that's not
picky. Going up three in front and up one in back takes the gear up .5. Now if
that were make or break, that might be sensitive. But 3 is certainly not
trivial. My curiosity is because the climbs in my local open space
Sure doubt its Compass's fault. I've been very pleased with their service.
On Monday, March 31, 2014 4:08:54 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
Finally showed up today, 2 days after the 400k I wanted to use them on.
Personally, I blame the postal service. But oh well.
On Mar 28, 2014 10:02 AM,
Looks great. I think I see a chain catcher thing on the stay you left off the
inventory, nice touch that's very handy.
You might consider the mks track chain tensioner as an alternative to the
monkey nuts.
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Gotta agree with Jim. I love my simple one, and it's great on pavement or dirt,
but if your mntn biking involves mountains I prefer to have a geared bike.
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Cool. I have the same hanger on my SO. It's nice having something to keep the
chain back where I can hook it easily with the rear axel. The monkey nuts look
neat I'm curious how they work out for you.
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Other potential solutions may be a bb spacer on the drive side or a longer bb.
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I have one bike with GB Cypres tires on it, and another with the unreinforced
JBs on it. They seem quite similar to me, though the JBs do look much bigger
than the Cypres. I think the different appearance must be due to rim width and
700c/650b differences, because they measure out to nearly
When I lived in south east Mi. a long time ago, I had a bike with 44-52 chain
rings and a 14-18 straight block. It was great. These days, living in the SF
east Bay Area, I'm really pleased with 30-46 rings and a 9sp 11-32 cassette. I
am convinced that the right gear setup is entirely dependent
I thought something like that too, but on the other hand there has been more
than one deceleration of affinity from G in a thread here full of back and
forth in that direction.
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Please let us know how it works out. I've been thinking of trying one on ours
too.
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I think you are right, though my approach is if you are going to buy two go for
the ends. Like a hunqapillar and a rodeo. That way they are more clearly
diferentiated and cover a larger overall range.
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John,
Another option is to zip tie a medium wald basket to your rack lengthwise.
I have that arrangement on my 56cm SimpleOne currently. The basket is well
foreword (almost touches my legs), and as low as possible (rack touches
fender, though my fender is well off the tire). I have also used a
They also come with center and side pull brakes. They go against the fork crown
/ brake bridge. You may be able to get them from the service guys at your LBS.
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Mat,
I doubt that you could tell any difference in the ride of an Asian Sam and a
Wisconsin one. Please put yourself at ease over that.
Tires can make quite a difference. Pressure, width and construction all make a
difference. Sometimes the tires on test bikes at RBW are at very low pressure,
152 plus shipping
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Though if the guys myth was formed by riding a Sam with little Ben schwalbes at
30psi you might be wrong.
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Hey Jan,
Thanks for the clarification.
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way off topic but,
the SR71 was developed after the U2 and removed from service before it so
yea the U2 is arguably superior to its shorter lived progeny.
On Friday, March 14, 2014 8:19:05 AM UTC-7, Allan in Portland wrote:
U2 superior to the
Jan writes There is less torque on the mounting bolt, How is that?
Looks like the cg of the light is the same distance in front of the bolt
either way, so the magnitude of the torque would be the same.
On Thursday, March 13, 2014 7:42:23 AM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
Absent a one speed w/ a bag of cogs and rings the best way to see what gear
is right for you is taking carful note of what gear works on a geared bike.
After that adjust for wheel size/roll out, do a bit of math and you should
be real close. It seems to me that whats right depends tremendously
Though I can't imagine anybody taking you to task for not scraping off the
decals, if you sold it through the mail to somebody who knows what a Ram is
from reading about RBW without pointing out it's 650B converted state they
might well object when they opened the box.
My view is that the is
ends.
Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh
On Sunday, March 9, 2014 9:52:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
At the risk of stating the obvious, if you like brifters for your rear
derailer but not the front, you can always put a down tube or bar end
shifter on the left and just use the brifter for the rear
I haven't tried the silvers I have with a 9sp cassette, but I do think the
granularity of control they yield is a bit coarser than what I get from
some old suntour acushift 7/8sp levers. I was using those older levers with
9sp successfully for a while until I got a new Suntour XCD to sub out my
On the off chance that somebody here is interested in the new Suntour
branded rear derailleur, here are my short term observations.
Short story, seems to work fine.
Longer version:
Ordered from Harris Cyclery on a Sun. evening. Arrived on the west coast
Wed. afternoon. Well done Harris.
Fairly
. The
46t ring and 18t freewheel would duplicate the setup noted earlier.
On Saturday, March 8, 2014 1:49:51 AM UTC-5, ted wrote:
White Industries does indeed seem to make great stuff, and since they
make what you want you don't need access to other options and being non
standard shouldn't
At the risk of stating the obvious, if you like brifters for your rear
derailer but not the front, you can always put a down tube or bar end
shifter on the left and just use the brifter for the rear mech.
On Sunday, March 9, 2014 12:07:10 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
it's not against the
. I think you won't
know what you like until you try some variations.
On Friday, March 7, 2014 4:26:01 AM UTC-8, djbardwil wrote:
Good call on checking the BB ted and I may go to 170 on the crank for the
smidge of leverage gain.
I also found this slick new White Industries Track Hubset
I think Tom is in Philadelphia. I (Ted) am out on the west coast. Actually
not far from where White Industries is located, and even closer to RBW.
Sounds like you are going to have a real White Industries theme going
there. Should be really great. Though personally I would avoid the
proprietary
that seemed like a good idea at the time. The pedals are pricey but
intense!
I am lucky to have found the frame and RBWOB to help - bike building keeps
my sanity in check this time of year.
On Friday, March 7, 2014 9:02:22 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:
I think Tom is in Philadelphia. I (Ted) am out
home to check - thanks Patrick (dig the shirt much),
ted, Pudge, David and Minh for your perspectives.
And with that, the order by which to choose components and considerations
seems:
1) Crankset - single ring makes sense; modest number of teeth, between 40
and 46; I like the Sugino RD
If you are going to buy the whole fixed gear esthetic, you quibble over
even a single tooth so you will want the option for odd tooth rings. Eighth
inch chains, cogs and rings are nice too. You might want a 144bcd crank
like the Sugino 75, if you don't mind a lower limit of 42t on your rings.
AARTS
On Saturday, March 1, 2014 5:53:37 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
never mind, answered my own question OLD - Over Locknut Spacing
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old
On Saturday, March 1, 2014 7:52:19 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
I understand BCD on a crankset, but what is that acronym
I believe facing is steel shaving, albeit very precise shaving.
On Friday, February 28, 2014 9:39:38 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:
Here we go:
If the headtube and fork crown seat are not milled correctly, the
bearing races of your headset will not be perpendicular to the steering
axis, and
Fair enough, but I think the notion of sufficiency is relevant here. One
being stronger doesn't necessarily mean the other is not strong enough. The
same goes for experience.
See http://www.gtgtandems.com/tech/femcaptain.html for an alternative view.
ted
On Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:20:39
I am sure Jim knows well where of he speaks, so I count my wife and I as
very lucky to have gotten a used tandem that suits us fairly well for far
less than 5k, and through RBW no less.
What I don't get though, is why virtually no enthusiastic husbands seem
to let their wives drive. I can see
Though she would probably have more fun with a different bike, I hope she
enjoys this one more than whatever she has been riding.
Being only 5'2 she likely doesn't weigh very much so 25 or 28 tires should
be more reasonable than they are for the average adult male. Particularly
if she doesn't
Tim
We have a few Riv’s in our club, the NBW which has Sunday rides all year
long in RI, Eastern CT, and SE Mass.
I ride a QB fixed, and my wife a Saluki (although to be honest she is a
warm weather rider). There are a few Ram’s too
Regards
Ted
On Jan 26, 2014, at 8:23 PM, Tim tim.ki
My green QB was originally setup as a fixie with Speed Blends, fenders and SON
lighting for commuting. My thought was that any thief would get mesmerized by
the tires changing color, while the headlight lit up my itself, and they would
crash on the first corner when they tried to coast.
I
Anyone else on the list planning to ride the San Diego Rainbow 200?
Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI
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I once sliced the sidewall of a continental gator skin tubular, and I won't be
buying any gator skin tires (tubulars or clinchers) again. I have had just as
good flat avoidance with nicer riding tires like the Grand Bois lines. In my
experience flat protection short of really thick tread and/or
as
they do at 100 psi, I am just glad I can get tires that are wide and
comfortable, and roll fast.
Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
http://www.bikequarterly.com
Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
On Monday, January 6, 2014 4:44:13 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Jan,
Agreed
Just don't hold your breath.
On Tuesday, January 7, 2014 9:48:36 PM UTC-8, Christopher Chen wrote:
I look forward to your results, Ted.
On Jan 7, 2014 9:42 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote:
I don't see how this relates to my question.
I think it is a possible (or even probable
in that medium to very high
pressure regime?
Though it's not significant as a practical matter, somehow the engineer in
me still wants to know.
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 6:50:27 PM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 5:45:23 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
If I read that right, you
Patrick,
If I understand your issue with bounce correctly, it can most likely be
addressed by adding more air regardless of how wide the tire is. I think
you have written about finding that out with your current tires (were too
bouncy, added air, now fine). So I doubt very much that bounce
:
On Saturday, January 4, 2014 10:59:41 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Are you equating the behavior of high performance 32mm clinchers and 25mm
tubulars, or are both tires you mention clinchers?
I am just talking about test results. We tested the Grand Bois clinchers,
as well as the Vittorias as clinchers
, Ted. Yes, you are understanding my desire and do a great job of
expressing the issues. I used a compass and ruler to sketch the difference
between 2.1 and 2.25 and it seems significant enough that I may well try
it (and if nothing else run the fatter tire on the front if it's tighter
than I
bike is, is it?
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 12:01:02 PM UTC-8, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Jan 5, 2014, at 12:42 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
Does anybody else remember Jobst asserting back in the early 90s that
tubulars were slower than clinchers because of the glue? I think
Jan,
You wrote:
Low and very high pressures were marginally more efficient than
medium-high pressures.
If I read that right, you are saying that your data shows a local maxima at
medium-high pressure with lower losses at tire pressures both above and
below that point. Is that really what you
Cool. I like the grip king in the snow pile seeming to hold up the bike for
the photo.
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 2:05:27 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Phulf60 on Flickr generously took these photos of a 1st gen. Hunqapillar
with 2.25 Smart Sams (click the left arrow to see them all):
As Jan Heine has often pointed out, his methodology is significantly
different than that of most tire manufacturers.
Despite that, what I get reading the article you linked to seems fairly
consistent with what I think Jan has written.
1) All other things being equal a tire with lighter more
, is there a point where, even on
rough surfaces, a wider tire is not faster than a narrower one? 60 mm? 70
mm? 100 mm?
Will they ride Pugsleys in Paris Roubaix?
Patrick Moore, asking seriously despite the flippancy, who does plan to
replace his Pro Race 23s with 25s.
On Sat, Jan 4, 2014 at 1:17 PM, ted
, 2014 12:17:13 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
3) For a given tire increasing pressure reduces rolling resistance.
It depends what you call rolling resistance. If you define it as only the
hysteretic losses within the tire, then it's true. However, if you are
looking at the OVERALL resistance of the bike
That's interesting Ann. How narrow and how high? Do the fat tires have more
rubber in the sidewalls?
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, but since the tires weigh something like 2
pounds each, I think the answer is a lot.
On Sat, Jan 4, 2014 at 6:45 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
That's interesting Ann. How narrow and how high? Do the fat tires have
more rubber in the sidewalls?
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Thanks for the information Jan,
Some of your comments elicit some questions. You say:
a Grand Bois 700C x 32 mm (or Vittoria CX Corsa 25 mm) tire is as fast at
60 psi as it is at 200 psi. At moderately high pressures (110 psi or so),
they actually were a little slower, but this is a minor
I suspect sanity is overrated, seriously overrated.
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Anton,
Where do you find that clear vinyl tape?
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Jeff,
Unlike most tire manufacturers, Compass Bikes bikes gives measured width when
they give a tires size. So you can be fairly confident that the width they
publish is the width you will get. If you ask they will probably tell you what
width rim they measured on so you can allow for that
Jeff,
I forgot to mention, tire cross sections don't have to be circular. If your
tightest clearance is vertically at the brake bridge you might ask Compass
Bikes what the max radius on that tire is. Measuring widths is not guaranteed
to tell you the height differences between tires.
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Nice rack Steve. Is it custom made?
On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:01:20 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 12/26/2013 09:39 PM, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
Garth, I'd never really considered bar end brake levers with Alba's...
Your description is compelling though! Between the brake and
enough).
On Monday, December 23, 2013 3:48:40 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:
Thanks Ted!
I really appreciate your time and help, as I do everyone's here. Thanks
for measuring.
I will double check my Sam horizontally.
That looks like the SO is a 1cm shorter reach. That would be perfect for
me
I think the short answer is not really. The SimpleOnes were going to be
side/center pull but the builder used the wrong kind of bridge, and rather than
replace the bridges Grant opted to add the canti posts. I think it would be
unsafe to mount a brake on the rear brake bridge of a SimpleOne,
Michael,
On the topic of top tube lengths:
I have a 56cm SimpleOne and my wife has a 52cm Sam Hillborne. Ill try and
help you out with your top tube length questions.
The length of my wife's Sam's sloping top tube is about 55.5cm. So when you
write that your Sam's TT is 55.5 and that it is
Though initially intended to have side or center pull brakes as it turned out,
due to confusion with the rear brake bridge, the SimpleOnes have cantilever
brakes. I think the only non cosmetic differences between the various
SimpleBeem frames are the kickstand plate and some additional rack
size will fit you, although of
course one will be more optimum than the other. I've had both a 60cm and a
62cm and both were great!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 4:17 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:wrote:
Though
Please help me out of my ignorance. What objective characteristics distinguish
a true mountain bike from other types of bikes?
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No doubt a 16t delta between chainrings is a large gap, but I find it can
work well. Particularly if you want the kind of large spread of gears that
drives you to cogs with 4 tooth gaps at the big end. Lately I have been
using a 9sp 11/32 cluster with 30/46 rings. When I shift between the 30
Neat. The link goes to a new three arm crank that looks a bit similar to the
new RH cranks from compass bikes. I have been liking the 30/46 I got from them
on my Hilsen. It's nice having more compact double options with sub 34t small
rings. I hope the soma folks stock this new model too.
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Jay,
If shifting and gears work fine in friction mode but not indexed, the
indexing must not be putting the derailleur in the proper location at the
clicks. To get it correct adjust the barrel adjuster at the rear
derailleur. You want the chain centered on the cog. Most likely if you look
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