Well sure, your room is probably relatively clear of dust and spores but that doesn't affect the average person that isn't running an ion or ozone machine. There's a lot of stuff in the air on average.

So, I still wouldn't bubble my CS.  But we all have our preferences.

Trem

Tel.  At 11:54 AM 1/18/2002 -0700, you wrote:
With all due respect Trem:
I have used stir with a motor & bubble also no stir at all, and a chop stick stir by hand. I to use a laser light and a pwt tester....but what makes me assume my CS is clean of dust as you believe, is I have three Clean Air Ozone generators in my house running 24 hrs a day to eliminate all dust and charge the air with extra oxygen, I have four generators most of the time, but one is lent out. When I make CS, once a week, I put a 3000 square foot generator in a 10 by 10 room and turn it
on and close the door.  It smells like a fresh rain and thunder storm had just
passed over. very clean, my computer hardly ever has a film on it like before I started using the Ozone generators. PS My silver tastes better with ozone too,
but I do not know if it IS better?  All I know for sure is that it works on my
family and bets..     Peace !
Tel Tofflemire
Phoenix , AZ

Trem wrote:

> Here's my take on it.
>
> I don't like bubbling because of several reasons.
>
> 1.  Typically there are about 10,000 spores and dust particles in each
> cubic foot of air near the floor.  That level decreases with height but
> nevertheless one can see that air is NOT clean in an average room.  I do
> not think it wise to pump those particles through the water.  I also think
> that it will raise the conductivity of the water giving one the false
> impression the mix is getting stronger. Stirring doesn't have this downside.
>
> 2.  As Ivan stated, it also adds Co2 to the water.  Stirring does not.
>
> 3.  The bubblers most people opt for have tubing and diaphragms made of
> some plastic which may or may not outgas into the water.  Not good.
>
> As to the other part.  I tell our customers that it isn't the PPM that
> counts because that's only a measure of the weight of silver.  1 PPM = 1 mg
> silver.  It's how many particles the silver is divided into that gives the
> most efficacy.  So we say,  if some is good (PPM),  more is not necessarily
> better.  I think many people fall for the idea that higher PPM is better
> when the fact is, strong mixes can lead to agglomeration and less total
> particles in a given measure of water.  We recommend not making CS over 10
> PPM so as to get a clear mix.  If they want more silver particles in their
> system, we tell them to drink more of the water, not try to make it
> stronger. It is self defeating to keep trying for the strongest mix possible.
>
> As to the SG6 Auto.  I have done quite a bit of experimenting with
> different motors and stirring speeds before settling on the motor speed we
> use which was 30 RPM but is now 40 RPM (different motor).  My observations
> are that it only takes a very gentle movement of the water to move the
> cloud away from the anode.  It does not take vigorous movement.  Slow
> stirring accomplishes that quite easily.  I have watched the dispersion for
> long periods using a laser pointer to see the movement.  I think vigorous
> stirring can cause more agglomeration than gentle stirring.  That's only an
> opinion...I may be wrong.  I had poor results when using a small higher
> speed DC motor.  Maybe others have better results.
>
> Someone said that the generator is designed for a pint.  That's sort of
> true.  It does work best in a pint.  However it also works in much larger
> vessels.  It just takes longer and there is a bit of stratification if the
> vessel is very deep.  However, the CS disburses over a few hours.  We tell
> folks that there are 3 ways around this.
>
> a.  Set the dial a bit higher than you really want the end strength of the
> mix to be. It will average out to the strength you desired after shut-down.
> b.  Wait a while for the mix to disburse and turn the generator back on to
> add a bit more silver to the water.
> c.  Make a smaller quantity at one time and combine the fractions.
>
> When making a half gallon at a time one has to expect to have some
> differences compared to making a pint.  It's not the same.
>
> Immediately after making the CS, the PWT generally reads higher than the
> next day.  That's because there is more ionic silver then than after some
> of the particles have become colloidal.  The total amount of silver in the
> water is the same.  Only the ratio of ionic to colloidal has changed.  The
> strength hasn't decreased as some people think because the PWT only reads
> ionic portions.  That's why we say in our instructions that the reading
> will be lower the next day.
>
> As far as buildup on electrodes is concerned, if one insists on running in
> large volumes of water and trying to make high PPM, there will obviously be
> a buildup of elemental silver on the cathode.  That's to be expected.  It
> isn't usually a problem if one is making lower PPM CS.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Trem
> www.silvergen.com
>
> At 05:47 PM 1/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >I have the SG6-very happy with my generator.
> >I have done some experiementing with the way I make my CS.
> >
> >I would like to compare my brew with stirring vs. bubbling and please
> >comments as too the differences.
> >
> >I use a 64 fl. oz. coffee creamer container to make my CS.
> >
> >Some days...using the stir....it seems to take longer. Not observant enough
> >to say why one day is different vs. another.
> >
> >Here are the comparisons of the last two batches made:
> >
> >--First brew:
> >Stirred batch.
> >Seeded, ppm per Hanna PWT 4ppm.
> >I cleaned electrodes (with heavy build up) 3 x's during the brew.
> >
> >After 36 hours of generation...the ppm per Hanna was about 18ppm. Indicator > >light, indicating that the brew had not reached 20pppm (as dialed) was still
> >on.
> >My stirred CS ALWAYS reads a lower number the next day, when retested. Often
> >I will turn the generator back on, let it run again until the indicator
> >light goes off.
> >
> >Allowed the brew to sit overnight. A lot of precipitate in the container.
> >Did not bother to retest the ppm. ( I expected it to be lower than what
> >measured the night before)
> >I gave up on that brew...used it in the bathwater....
> >
> >--Second brew:
> >Bubbled batch-stirrer removed.
> >
> >Seeded DW ppm at start 4ppm.
> >10 hrs. later: indicator light off.
> >I did not clean the electrodes at all.
> >I shut down the generator.
> >Did not test the ppm.
> >left til this AM, testing ppm with Hanna, the ppm is 26ppm. (set at 20ppm)
> >
> >Some, but little precipitate....electrodes with little build up.
> >
> >
> >My observed main points
> >
> >-bubbled CS consistently more stable after brew sits (ppm's do not fall from
> >one day to the next)
> >-bubbled CS consistently has less build up on the electrodes, less
> >precipitate in the container.
> >-bubbled CS consistently able to achieve higher ppm (per Hanna)
> >-occassionally will get pale yellow CS with stir, never with bubbled
> >-consistently stirred CS will turn ashen with even minimal exposure to
> >light, bubbled does not seem to (I have not specifically ''tested'' this.)
> >-brew time for higher ppm's consistenly quicker with bubbler. (this case 36
> >hours for less than 20ppm stirred vs. 10 hrs. for 26ppm bubbled)
> >
> >I have no clue why such a difference. I know Ole Bob you do not like the
> >bubbler, I believe also Trem that you prefer stir....
> >
> >Could someone explain some of these differences for me...in terms I could
> >understand....
> >and if bubbling is not good, why....when it appears to make a better
> >product?
> >
> >TIA
> >Connie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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