[Elecraft] K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread Trevor Smithers
From the K3 faq

Elecraft plans to offer a matching bandscope accessory after the K3 is out 

I'm aware of L-Pan, SDR-IQ, Softrock, Perseus, Mercury, QS1R etc but wondered 
if a 
dedicated Elecraft K3 panadaptor is still on the development schedule or has 
this been dropped 
in favour of the 3rd party offerings.

73 to all
Trevor  G0KTN
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem

2008-12-29 Thread Johnny Siu
Hi Ken,

You can just refer back to the inventory list in p.7-9 of your KRX3 assembly 
manual.  In the list, the dimensions of the hardwares are given.

In the past, a wrong size standoff was given to my KNB2.

Just check the inventory list first, if there are wrong parts, simply send 
elecraft an email and they will send you the replacement right the way.

cheers,

Johnny Siu VR2XMC
K3# 0046 and many K2s


--- 2008年12月29日 星期一,Kenneth Lopez kjlo...@earthlink.net 寫道﹕

 寄件人: Kenneth Lopez kjlo...@earthlink.net
 主題: [Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem
 收件人: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 日期: 2008 12 29 星期一 下午 3:18
 Howdy,
 
 I have nearly completed the KRX 3 installation, but have
 run into a physical mounting problem
 
 The two 1 1/2 4-40 screws are not long enough to
 reach the stand offs below the KRX3 module
 
 I have VERY carefully followed instructions.  There have
 been some missing standoffs which I had to supply from my
 own stock.  As a result I have been careful to measure all
 of the screws and standoffs.
 
 It appears to me that many of the standoffs mounted on the
 RF board are too short.
 
 The KRX 3 module rests on the battery,  and mates correctly
 with the pins on the mating boards.  It has what looks to be
 the right amount of clearance above the RF board toroids.
 
 I took the side panel off to better see the clearances.  It
 looks as though the supplied screws are at least 1/2
 too short.
 
 What in heck is going on?  Have I done something wrong?
 
 Or do I have the wrong screws supplied? Or the wrong
 standoffs?
 
 Cheers,
 
 Ken N6TZV
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

Measure the standoffs mounted on the main board - they should be 7/8 
inch and must have two split lockwashers under them - a total height 
above the board not quite an inch.  The height of these standoffs are 
critical because the 1 1/2 inch screws only engage the threads for about 
1/8 inch.


If those standoffs are correct, check all the standoffs that you mounted 
in the KRX3 board and the number of lockwashers between the standoffs 
and the board - these must be correct for everything to fit properly.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kenneth Lopez wrote:

Howdy,

I have nearly completed the KRX 3 installation, but have run into a 
physical mounting problem


The two 1 1/2 4-40 screws are not long enough to reach the stand offs 
below the KRX3 module


I have VERY carefully followed instructions.  There have been some 
missing standoffs which I had to supply from my own stock.  As a 
result I have been careful to measure all of the screws and standoffs.


It appears to me that many of the standoffs mounted on the RF board 
are too short.


The KRX 3 module rests on the battery,  and mates correctly with the 
pins on the mating boards.  It has what looks to be the right amount 
of clearance above the RF board toroids.


I took the side panel off to better see the clearances.  It looks as 
though the supplied screws are at least 1/2 too short.


What in heck is going on?  Have I done something wrong?

Or do I have the wrong screws supplied? Or the wrong standoffs?

Cheers,

Ken N6TZV
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RE: [Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem

2008-12-29 Thread W7TMT

This issue is also impacted by how well the cover fits over the rcvr board.
I had to fiddle with mine a bit and file off some misplaced nubs on the
circuit board in order to get the top and bottom sheet metal parts to snap
together properly. If the top cover isn't positioned correctly it will hold
the screw head too high to mate with the stand-offs. The form, fit, and
finish of the rest of the radio is close to perfect but that wrap around
cover took a lot of extra care before I finally got mine to fit right.

73/Patrick
W7TMT
 

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 5:13 AM
 To: Kenneth Lopez
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem
 
 Ken,
 
 Measure the standoffs mounted on the main board - they should 
 be 7/8 inch and must have two split lockwashers under them - 
 a total height above the board not quite an inch.  The height 
 of these standoffs are critical because the 1 1/2 inch screws 
 only engage the threads for about
 1/8 inch.
 
 If those standoffs are correct, check all the standoffs that 
 you mounted in the KRX3 board and the number of lockwashers 
 between the standoffs and the board - these must be correct 
 for everything to fit properly.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread dj7mgq
I'm aware of L-Pan, SDR-IQ, Softrock, Perseus, Mercury, QS1R etc but  
wondered if a dedicated Elecraft K3 panadaptor is

still on the development schedule or has this been dropped
in favour of the 3rd party offerings.


I would hope that it has not been dropped, if for no other reason,  
because I assume it would communicate most efficiently with the K3  
using Elecraft's internal bus. Of course there are also other  
offerings in the pipeline, so it is hard to say what the Elecraft  
roadmap may look like.


I have bought a QS1R, which I, among other things, plan on using as a  
panadapter with my K3 until Elecraft releases their own. It should be  
possible to do most of what Elecraft might do internally, with the  
RS-232 serial port. What might be tricky is sharing the serial port  
with logging software such as WinTest, but on the other hand, I do  
hope to integrate WinTest band map information in the live spectrum  
display. It would be cool if Elecraft's panadapter implements this  
kind interoperation with logging software and/or DX-Clusters.


Happy New Year de toby
--
DD5FZ
K2, #885, K2/100 #3248, K3/100 #67



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[Elecraft] K3: Antenna Ports

2008-12-29 Thread Ron Spencer
During the recent Stew Perry 160 contest I found that at some points the
transmit vertical was better then the beverages for receiving the west
coast. It seems that when I assign the second receiver to main it uses
whatever antenna I have selected for the main receiver and not the main
transmit antenna. What I wanted to do was listen on the sub to the transmit
vertical and the beverages on the main. This way I could, if I wanted to,
quickly shut off the sub to get the beverages in both ears. I don't have the
tuner in the K3.

I know I can put the beverages in the sub receiver aux input but if I do
this I can't have them in both ears (or is there a way to do that?). 

To summarize what I want is: main receiver to listen on beverages which are
connected to the receive antenna bnc. Listen with the 2nd receiver on the
main transmit antenna. 

Thanks

Ron
N4XD 

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re: [Elecraft] K3: Using 40m Loop for 10m

2008-12-29 Thread Mike Scott
Believe it or not, my ground wave signal for our local 10m CW net has been
reported by the net control station as much better with the loop than it is
with the 10m rotatable dipole.

Phil, this is to be expected, ground waves are vertically polarized
transmission modes. Your rotatable dipole is cross polarized for this mode.
A simple vertical would probably work better yet.

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Antenna Ports

2008-12-29 Thread Bill W4ZV



Ron Spencer wrote:
 
 To summarize what I want is: main receiver to listen on beverages which
 are
 connected to the receive antenna bnc. Listen with the 2nd receiver on the
 main transmit antenna.
 

I don't have a KAT3 installed in my K3 with the KRX3 but that may be the
only way to do what you want.  Your choice would be ANT2 instead of AUX RF
for the KRX3 and then use ANT2 for the Main TX.  Then you would have RX ANT
for Main RX and ANT2 for KRX3, but you have then given up using AUX RF for
the KRX3 (without changing cables inside the K3).  As I said I don't have a
KAT3 so maybe someone who does can verify this.

What difference does it make which RX is on which antenna since the RXs are
identical?  See link below for using a splitter for Bev to both RX ANT / AUX
RF which allows quickly switching  between the 3 combinations:

Main / Sub

1.  TX ANT on Main ANT1 / Bev on Sub AUX RF.  [normal diversity setup]
2.  Both RXs on TX ant.  ANT1/ANT1  [*tap* RX ANT to toggle with #1 above]
3.  Both RXs on Bev.  Bev (RX ANT) / Bev (AUX RF) [*hold* RX ANT to toggle
with #1 above]

Here's a previous post describing this:

http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-November/099738.html

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Antenna Ports

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
In a related wish list item, I would like to have the ability to 
switch between 2 antennas, just like the KAT3 does now, but without the 
tuner part of the KAT3.  I have all resonant antennas and do not need 
the tuner on the K3.


I know I could just add the KAT3 and put it in bypass, but that is quite 
pricey for an antenna switch.

So how about a KAS3 option (K3 Antenna Switch)?

73,
Don W3FPR

Ron Spencer wrote:

During the recent Stew Perry 160 contest I found that at some points the
transmit vertical was better then the beverages for receiving the west
coast. It seems that when I assign the second receiver to main it uses
whatever antenna I have selected for the main receiver and not the main
transmit antenna. What I wanted to do was listen on the sub to the transmit
vertical and the beverages on the main. This way I could, if I wanted to,
quickly shut off the sub to get the beverages in both ears. I don't have the
tuner in the K3.

I know I can put the beverages in the sub receiver aux input but if I do
this I can't have them in both ears (or is there a way to do that?). 


To summarize what I want is: main receiver to listen on beverages which are
connected to the receive antenna bnc. Listen with the 2nd receiver on the
main transmit antenna. 


Thanks

Ron
N4XD 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Antenna Ports

2008-12-29 Thread Brian Alsop

Ron,

I may be mislead by the K3 displays, but this seems to be able to be 
done in beta V2.76.
Initial condition.  Main rx on main ant   Subrx on.   Diversity not 
selected.


1) A-B twice to copy all to sub
2) Now select RX ant for main (assuming that's where the rx antennas are).

If you want to transmit on B's freq, select split too.

One can go to BSET to change what you don't like with the A-B copy all 
step.


Regarding the audio mixing,  I've done it externally to put both rx's in 
both ears.


73 de Brian/K3KO

Ron Spencer wrote:


During the recent Stew Perry 160 contest I found that at some points the
transmit vertical was better then the beverages for receiving the west
coast. It seems that when I assign the second receiver to main it uses
whatever antenna I have selected for the main receiver and not the main
transmit antenna. What I wanted to do was listen on the sub to the transmit
vertical and the beverages on the main. This way I could, if I wanted to,
quickly shut off the sub to get the beverages in both ears. I don't have the
tuner in the K3.

I know I can put the beverages in the sub receiver aux input but if I do
this I can't have them in both ears (or is there a way to do that?). 


To summarize what I want is: main receiver to listen on beverages which are
connected to the receive antenna bnc. Listen with the 2nd receiver on the
main transmit antenna. 


Thanks

Ron
N4XD 


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[Elecraft] K3: KAS3 (was Antenna Ports)

2008-12-29 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
W3FPR said:
In a related wish list item, I would like to have the ability to
switch between 2 antennas, just like the KAT3 does now, but without the
tuner part of the KAT3.  I have all resonant antennas and do not need
the tuner on the K3.

I know I could just add the KAT3 and put it in bypass, but that is quite
pricey for an antenna switch.
So how about a KAS3 option (K3 Antenna Switch)?



I AGREE WITH THIS 100%.
Of course, it will probably be ~$99, still rather pricey, but much
better than buying a KAT3...and I would not mind being wrong on the
price (in the right direction).

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KAS3 (was Antenna Ports)

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Doug,

In my uninformed opinion, I believe it could be easily accomplished.  
Conceptually it could be the current KAT3 board with only part of the 
components mounted, and firmware that is the same as the KAT3 except 
that the 'bypass' function would be permanently set on.


Implementation and integration into the current K3 firmware and menu 
structure is quite another matter.


73,
Don W3FPR

DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

W3FPR said:
In a related wish list item, I would like to have the ability to
switch between 2 antennas, just like the KAT3 does now, but without the
tuner part of the KAT3.  I have all resonant antennas and do not need
the tuner on the K3.

I know I could just add the KAT3 and put it in bypass, but that is quite
pricey for an antenna switch.
So how about a KAS3 option (K3 Antenna Switch)?



I AGREE WITH THIS 100%.
Of course, it will probably be ~$99, still rather pricey, but much
better than buying a KAT3...and I would not mind being wrong on the
price (in the right direction).

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3- NO Output Power

2008-12-29 Thread Ned

Some things to check...

- Check: Config TX INH needs to be set to false

- Be sure that you are not in the test mode (TX is blinking) -- Press and
Hold Mode Up/test to toggle

- Connect dummy load, and press  hold XMIT/Tune -- if this works, then
the hardware is probably OK.

- If in CW, Press XMIT and try to send. If that works, then

- Be sure that the VOX is selected to enable QSK -- Press and hold
Band/Down to toggle between VOX and PTT.. When selected, the VOX symbol
will appear in the display.

Good luck with your new K3...

73, Ned, W2NED
K3 sn: 1072


K5HTK wrote:
 
 My newly assembled K3 has no power output. I have tried all the
 configuration settings that might affect output. I have checked all the
 assembly procedures to assure I did all correctly. ...
 K5HTK
 
  
 
 
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[Elecraft] Sub Receiver Filter Macros

2008-12-29 Thread Tony Fegan VE3QF
	I have been able to set filter macros on the main receiver but now wish 
set the sub receiver filter macros. I have the sub receiver on and 
linked (same frequency).


I can set the main receiver filter with the macro:
k31;is 0550;fw0040;
This works as expected (350-750 Hz).

I now execute the macro:
k31;is$ 2000;fw$0100; (hoping to get 1500-2500 Hz)
	I end up with the center frequency of the main receiver shifted to 2.0 
kHz and 1.0 kHz bandwidth set on the sub receiver. The is$ does not 
seem to work for the sub receiver. Is this correct? How should I set the 
sub receiver shift?
	I suppose I could set the (sub) filter in A, use the SW commands to 
transfer to B, and then set A again. It's a lot of shuffling but it 
may work.


	Any suggestions would be appreciated. I need this to simulate a 
Contour filter for SSB.


73
Tony VE3QF

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread wayne burdick

Trevor wrote:

 ... wondered if a dedicated Elecraft K3 panadaptor is still on the 
development schedule.


Yes, definitely, unequivocally. (To use the vernacular: youbetcha :)  I 
can't give you any timetable, and I can't reveal any details yet, but 
it will be highly integrated with the K3, and will look dynamite 
sitting next to it.


We'll be using the more common spelling: panadapter.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] KRX3 Mounting Problem-Solved!

2008-12-29 Thread Kenneth Lopez

OK, I figured it out.

There is a confluence of incomplete inventory from Elecraft,  
incomplete checking by me, and working late at night after a big meal.


It all comes down to standoffs.   I was missing two of the longest ones.

This morning I rethought the problem, and found I had measured with  
my eyes when installing the only ones left.


No big deal.  Years ago I bought six Mason jars full of hardware,  
screws, nuts, etc. from an elderly ham who was cleaning his shop.  $1  
per jar.  Never have I been so rewarded by the expenditure of $1.


I'll just remount the proper size standoffs and all will fit like a  
charm.


Everything else went together like a dream.  I am so impressed with  
the mechanical implementation.  Even the L shaped cover and circuit  
board went together flawlessly.


I would like to thank the encouraging emails from N2TK, Tony, Johnny  
Siu VR2XMC, Don W3FPR, and Bill NY9H, and Patrick W7TMT.


This is a great radio, made by a great company, but enhanced  
substantially by the community of The LIst!


Thanks and 73 to all,

Ken N6TZV


PS:  I saved all the extra screws from the K3.  I have had to dig  
into that bag to help with the KRX3.


I also note that I have sufficient small black flathead screws to  
replace any that are damaged cosmetically.


Save those extra screws and hardware!!!


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
Wayne:
Thanks for the news. I am interested. I only connect my K3 to the computer for 
updates. I hope your panadaptor does not need a computer connection.
Thanks,
73, Ty, W1TF, K3 #696


--- On Mon, 12/29/08, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:

 From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, December 29, 2008, 12:30 PM
 Trevor wrote:
 
   ... wondered if a dedicated Elecraft K3
 panadaptor is still on the development schedule.
 
 Yes, definitely, unequivocally. (To use the vernacular:
 youbetcha :)  I can't give you any timetable, and I
 can't reveal any details yet, but it will be highly
 integrated with the K3, and will look dynamite sitting next
 to it.
 
 We'll be using the more common spelling: panadapter.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR



  
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread wayne burdick

Ralph Tyrrell wrote:


I hope your panadaptor does not need a computer connection.


It will work either way.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KAS3 (was Antenna Ports)

2008-12-29 Thread ab2tc

Count me in for an order if this becomes a reality. I was always bummed that
I could not have the 2nd antenna port without the tuner option. I have no
need for the internal antenna tuner as my tuner is at the other end of 100'
coax run to right below where the feed wires for my several wire antennas
come down to the ground. With this I could eliminate my MFJ-949 which is now
primarily used as a switch. Its elimination would significantly reduce the
ingression of computer noise into the system. The MFJ-949 has protruding hot
capacitor shafts significantly compromising the shielding.


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Doug,
 
 In my uninformed opinion, I believe it could be easily accomplished.  
 snip
 


-
AB2TC - Knut
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[Elecraft] Re: K1 Intermittent power up problem

2008-12-29 Thread Bob VanFossen
Not much help Ken, but thanks for the reply.

Bad solder joint was my first thought.  I really need help with the power up
sequence so I can scope out the problem.

I have already checked the front panel, both visually and with an accurate
ohm meter from the processor to the board.  The connections to the processor
chip socket are mostly hidden under the display, and are not visible, so I
have metered out the connections from the processor pins to the board land
patterns.  All connections are at or very near 0 ohms.

If someone can lead me thru the power up sequence it would be helpful to me.

I am not a novice to trouble shooting, but need to at least have information
on just what is SUPPOSED to be happening.

Bob, K4DJG

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Intermittent power up problem

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

I do not know the sequence for power-up diagnostics that are run by the 
K1 - perhaps Wayne or someone else having access to the code (Elecraft 
proprietary) can provide that information for you.  All I can say is 
that the firmware is stopping execution early in the cycle.  A heat/cold 
related problem is usually a bad solder connection, but it can also be 
the result of a temperature sensitive component (that happens rarely, 
but it can occur).


Can I assume that it just quits processing and never indicates an Enn 
message in the display?


Most times I have encountered that symptom, the firmware chip itself is 
at fault.  If you have another K1, try swapping the firmware chip to 
test it.


Things that are checked for error state are the Filter Board IOC 
(usually results in an E27 or E28 message), and the EEPROM (usually 
results in E30, E31 or E32).
You may want to check the oscillator components (X1, C1 and C2) and be 
certain they provide a clock to the microprocessor.
The AUXBUS could also have a fault that is halting the firmware 
execution of instructions.


73,
Don W3FPR

Bob VanFossen wrote:

I have just finished my second K1.  It seems to have an intermittent and
apparently temperature sensitive problem.

Symptoms are: on power up, the yellow LED turns on and stays there.  If the
room temp is fairly low, heating the back of the front panel (and
consequentially the RF board) causes it to resume normal power up, and then
everything is normal. Cooling it down does NOT cause a failure.

Normal power up sequence is a quick blink of the Yellow LED, followed by a
longer blink of the same LED then the RED Green then freq display.  On
Failure, there is NO blink, just steady yellow.

Can anyone lead me thru the power up diagnostic and just what is happening
that SHOULD cause the Yellow led to turn off initially?  I don't even know
where in the circuitry start!

When this K1 completes it's power up, it works flawlessly!  It only fails at
power up.  It also seems to work OK if VERY cold, or at normal room temp.

HELP!!!

Bob VanFossen, K4DJG
  


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[Elecraft] Sell: LP-Pan and E-mu 0202 sound card

2008-12-29 Thread Greg-N4CC
Looking for $250 + postage for the pair from Jacksonville, FL 
area.  73 de Greg-N4CC


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[Elecraft] Re: Automatic diversity configuration

2008-12-29 Thread Benny Aumala

Mine does not work.
Second receiver is lost in this cofiguration.
Otherways OK ( VFO A decimal point flashes).

Benny   OH9NB

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Configuration

2008-12-29 Thread Gregory Fischer
Glad it worked Joe.  I knew Simon stuck that in there but at first I  
just could not remember where it was.


73 and Happy New Year!
Greg
AB7R

On Dec 29, 2008, at 10:11 AM, JA STAPLES wrote:


Greg

That's it !

I gather that HRD is reading the actual settings of the K3 in real  
time.  I imagine we can make the comparison of the 4 K3s just by  
swapping them and comparing the various settings.  That will be a  
great help in assuring that they are all on the same page.


I assume that Elecraft has similar software to read the actual  
Configuration files to assist in trouble-shooting customer  
problems.  I knew about HRD but never used it.


Thanks again ... another feather in the cap for the Elecraft crew !!

This might be of interest to others ... wonder if it should be  
posted on the Reflector ?


Joe, W5ASP

--- On Mon, 12/29/08, Gregory Fischer a...@cablespeed.com wrote:
From: Gregory Fischer a...@cablespeed.com
Subject: Re: K3 Configuration
To: w5...@yahoo.com
Date: Monday, December 29, 2008, 1:37 AM

Found it.  With HRD open, go to TOOLS and then Extended Menus and  
select K3.  Of course you have to be connected to the radio first.   
The program will then check all the setting and show the current  
value and the default.


73
Greg
AB7R

On Dec 28, 2008, at 8:06 PM, JA STAPLES wrote:


Greg,

Thanks for the prompt response 

I have searched the HRD documentation and did not find anything  
that appears to help.  There is some stuff re translating HEX codes  
but it seems to deal with firmware files ... maybe ...


What I'm looking for is a way to read the files that are created  
by the Elecraft K3 Utility when the CONFIGURATION tab is selected,  
and the choice Save K3 configuration as ..
is selected.  The resulting file is written into a folder with the  
name
  K3Serial #.YYYMMDDT###.K3CONFIG.   A new file is written each  
time the current configuration is saved.  Appaently the can be  
recalled and the K3 reconfigured to a previous settig.


As I said we have 4 K3s and want to compare their settings.

Joe, W5ASP



--- On Sun, 12/28/08, Gregory Fischer a...@cablespeed.com wrote:
From: Gregory Fischer a...@cablespeed.com
Subject: Re: K3 Configuration
To: JA STAPLES w5...@yahoo.com
Cc: k3supp...@elecraft.com
Date: Sunday, December 28, 2008, 12:38 PM

I think Ham Radio Deluxe has a feature to do something like this.

73
Greg
AB7R

On Dec 28, 2008, at 9:23 AM, JA STAPLES wrote:

Is there any way to list or print out the contents of the  
configuration file created by the K3 Utility.  We use 4 different  
four K3s and would like to be able to compare the configuration  
settings.


Thanks,

Joe, W5ASP









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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread Dave G4AON
Wayne

Can I jump in first and ask if there are other K3 related products in
the pipeline, and if you have timescales for them?

Like many, I have bought a pair of small bookshelf speakers and they
work fine with the K3. I also bought a Perseus SDR which I use as both a
second receiver and panadaptor. If I had known a definite product was
planned for a panadapter, I like perhaps others, would probably have
waited for the Elecraft product. By keeping us in the dark I am sure
your sales will suffer!

Proper adjustable feet for the K3 would be nice a nice addition instead
of the bale arm - it's not a low cost transceiver...

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

/ ... wondered if a dedicated Elecraft K3 panadaptor is still on the
// development schedule.
/
Yes, definitely, unequivocally. (To use the vernacular: youbetcha :) I
can't give you any timetable, and I can't reveal any details yet, but
it will be highly integrated with the K3, and will look dynamite
sitting next to it.

We'll be using the more common spelling: panadapter.

73,
Wayne
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Re: [Elecraft] Automatic diversity configuration

2008-12-29 Thread Guy, K2AV

My problem is that once in diversity mode I can't seem to turn it off
(admittingly assuming it's a toggle).  What's the command sequence to turn
off diversity (other than power off and on)?

73, Guy


wayne burdick wrote:
 
 Joachim wrote:
 
 I've just installed MCU 2.76 and find that the diversity auto config 
 no longer works. Anyone else notice this?
 
 Hi Joachim,
 
 I just tested this and it appears to be working. What you may be 
 noticing is that in diversity mode (*long* hold of SUB), VFO B is no 
 longer linked to VFO A. In recent revisions, VFO A still controls both 
 synthesizers, but VFO B is left independent so it can be used for SPLIT 
 with diversity (i.e., as the transmit frequency).
 
 You'll also notice that in diversity mode, the VFO A kHz decimal point 
 flashes as a reminder. If you link the VFOs (normal hold of SUB), the 
 VFO B kHz decimal point flashes. In fact you can still link VFO B to 
 VFO A if desired, even in diversity mode, but more likely you'll leave 
 VFO B free to use for split.
 
 One other change in the most recent revision is that PRE and ATTN are 
 independent for the main and sub receivers. Use BSET to set up the sub 
 receiver's PRE and ATTN.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread K8TB

Ha, And who says there is no Santa Claus? He's only 4 days late!

   Hmm. Maybe an anniversary gift from K8AJ?

  Thanks for the note Wayne!
  
Tom K8TB


wayne burdick wrote:
  Yes, definitely, unequivocally.
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Re: [Elecraft] Automatic diversity configuration

2008-12-29 Thread Barry N1EU


Guy, K2AV wrote:
 
 My problem is that once in diversity mode I can't seem to turn it off
 (admittingly assuming it's a toggle).  What's the command sequence to turn
 off diversity (other than power off and on)?
 
The best way to get out of diversity is to tap SUB, which will turn off the
subreceiver.  Tap SUB again to turn the subreceiver back on with diversity
off.  In other words, two taps will turn off diversity.

73,
Barry N1EU
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[Elecraft] K3 Panadapter

2008-12-29 Thread Ken Kopp

Waho!! Great news! (:-))

I hope it's ahead of the PA's 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

---

Yes, definitely, unequivocally. (To use the vernacular: youbetcha :)
I can't give you any timetable, and I can't reveal any details yet, but
it will be highly integrated with the K3, and will look dynamite sitting
next to it.

We'll be using the more common spelling: panadapter.

73,
Wayne
N6KR 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

I hope if at all possible, it will work with a Mac and OSX
Realise this is probably not a high priority or perhaps you're looking  
at some form of CAT interface, but if at all possible, working with  
OSX would be much appreciated.
And not looking for any commitments in any way, just looking forward  
to being able to order one

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Math Anxiety: an intense lifelong fear of two trains approaching each  
other at speeds of 60 and 80 MPH. -Rick Bayan


On 29 Dec 2008, at 17:51, wayne burdick wrote:

Ralph Tyrrell wrote:

I hope your panadaptor does not need a computer connection.

It will work either way.


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread Joe Planisky

Yes, I'll second the desire for an OS X version of the Panadapter.

It's fantastic that there's an OS X version of the K3 Utility.  I hope  
it's a trend that Elecraft will continue with all future software  
products.


73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Dec 29, 2008, at 2:48 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:


I hope if at all possible, it will work with a Mac and OSX

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Re:Re: [Elecraft] TO ALL! (K0PP)

2008-12-29 Thread JIM DAVIS

On Sun, 28 Dec 2008 21:48:42 -
 Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net wrote:

Welcome to the reflector, Jim!

LOTS of knowledge and help available here.

I'll be the first to ask ... what's your K3's S/N? (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


Boy Ken you're nosey!!!  :-)))

Our NEW K# is s/n:2406

 


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[Elecraft] K3 Panadaptor wishes

2008-12-29 Thread Ralph Parker
I'm keeping my PRO III because I like to use the panadaptor to keep an eye
on 6m. If an Elecraft stand-alone panadaptor appears, I'll buy it and toss
the PRO.
I don't see any advantage in Elecraft offering a computer-based panadaptor
- they already exist.

Maybe if the KPA800 had a built-in panadaptor. :-)

VE7XF

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[Elecraft] RS 232 cable?

2008-12-29 Thread W5CEM

What is the proper RF isolation for the GND on a RS232 cable?  I want several
for different QTHs, so will build them myself.  

thankscleve/W5CEM
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[Elecraft] FS LP-PAN and E-MU 0202 as new

2008-12-29 Thread n6ax
Tired of software troubles with my Mac and Parallels

For sale is my as new E-MU 0202, LP-PAN, original boxes, interconnect cables,
etc, etc, etc.

Sometimes, when the software cooperates, it works greatthen my Mac
crashes...no fault of the LP-PAN.


The LP-PAN was factory assembled.

$300.00 delivered in lower 48...will ship to Europe for additional shipping 
cost.

Paypal OK with you covering their 3% fee.
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Re: [Elecraft] RS 232 cable?

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Cleve,

Jim Brown K9YC has posted much good advice on this subject.  Take a look 
at his website information at 
http://audiosystemsgroup.com/HamInterfacing.pdf

and
http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

Pay particular attention to his comments about using twisted pair (CAT5) 
for RS-232 interconnects to minimize RFI - shielded cable may not 'hack' 
it..


73,
Don W3FPR

W5CEM wrote:

What is the proper RF isolation for the GND on a RS232 cable?  I want several
for different QTHs, so will build them myself.  


thankscleve/W5CEM
  




No virus found in this incoming message.
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Panadaptor/Bandscope

2008-12-29 Thread O. Johns

Another vote for a Mac OSX version when it appears.

--Oliver Johns
   W6ODJ


On 29 Dec 2008, at 3:34 PM, Joe Planisky wrote:


Yes, I'll second the desire for an OS X version of the Panadapter.

It's fantastic that there's an OS X version of the K3 Utility.  I  
hope it's a trend that Elecraft will continue with all future  
software products.


73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Dec 29, 2008, at 2:48 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:


I hope if at all possible, it will work with a Mac and OSX

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[Elecraft] K3 DVR

2008-12-29 Thread Barry Simpson
At present the M2 thru M4 buttons provide shortcuts to the Config menu. I
didn't set them up - they just seem to have appeared with various firmware
updates.

 

My question is what happens when I install my KDVR3 (to be delivered early
in the New Year) ? 

 

Are the short cut functions automatically removed or is there some further
reconfiguration that needs to be done ?

 

HNY to all.

 

Barry Simpson  VK2BJ

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[Elecraft] ?high ALC reading using voice recorder playback

2008-12-29 Thread Robert Sands

When I playback from the voice recorder (sample taken from received audio) the 
ALC seems to MAX and not show any variation (it goes to 7 and stays there, 
unlike modulation using mic). Is there a way to control the audio drive or is 
it OK to let the ALC max? No complaints so far on audio quality on playback. 
This may be a non issue.
Bob
K7VO
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[Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Lee Buller


I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I was 
using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was using.  
(Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not)  I had to putt 
about 10 resistors of the board.  They are plated through holes.  I did not 
have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the 
solder out of the holes.  A small drill?  Anyone has some comments?

Lee Buller - K0WA
Embarrased to say the least


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
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RE: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Solder wick?

 

Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lee Buller
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 7:07 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

 




I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I
was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was
using.  (Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not)  I had
to putt about 10 resistors of the board.  They are plated through holes.  I
did not have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of
somethingto get the solder out of the holes.  A small drill?  Anyone has
some comments?

Lee Buller - K0WA
Embarrased to say the least


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't
find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.
Is Common Sense divine?

 

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RE: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Dale Putnam

Hi Lee,
  Man I hate when that happens... solder wick works well, but can you find that 
when you need it?
A drill might, but that has so really poor happenings, and opens the door real 
wide for our good friend(?) Murphy, with the least problem to be a loosened 
hole through, the worst being a messed up board. How about air? heated the 
hole, blowing a can of compressed air through? Another thought would be, 
stripping the braid out of the smallest coax you have handy, two or three 
inches to start with, wiping flux on the stripped out shield, and use that for 
solder wick...? Or.. simply heating the hole, then sliding in a stranded wire, 
through the hole... a fur piece then either cutting the wire off, and pulling 
it out... or continue to heat the hole and draw the wire through until it is 
clean. Obviously this requires a proper sized wire.. but then you have a few 
other holes to size the wire with.
Good Luck, and remember... it isn't the speed that accomplishes the task it 
is the lack of returning to fix it again that makes it a good repair. --... 
...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy



Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 19:07:12 -0800From: k...@swbell.netto: 
elecr...@mailman.qth.netsubject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery 
-Plated Through Holes



I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I was 
using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was using.  
(Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not)  I had to putt 
about 10 resistors of the board.  They are plated through holes.  I did not 
have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the 
solder out of the holes.  A small drill?  Anyone has some comments?Lee Buller - 
K0WAEmbarrased to say the leastIn our day and age it seems that Common Sense 
is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense 
and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who 
has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine?
_
Life on your PC is safer, easier, and more enjoyable with Windows Vista®. 
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032870/direct/01/___
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[Elecraft] OT: Removing Solder Through Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Lee Buller

Hey,

Lots of good ideas here.  I did use the solder wick.  That was a no brainer, 
but getting all the solder out of the holes is a different deal.  I rummaged 
around in my tool drawer and I found a solder sucker which was spring 
loaded.  I got it years ago from Radio Shack. I never had any luck with 
it...but in this application seemed to work well.  I got the holes cleaned 
upnow...I can start again.  But alas...I think I need to get some more 
resistors too...I broke one.  

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Lee - K0WA


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?___
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RE: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
A couple of things I've used to clear plated through holes:

 

1)  A common solder sucker such as sold at Radio Shack and many other
places. Hold the board so you can apply heat from the soldering iron on one
side of the board while placing the solder sucker over the hole on the
opposite side. 'Wham': the hole is empty. It helps to put a little solder on
the iron first so it transfers heat well. '

2)  A drop of flux to help desoldering braid usually clears the hole
instantly. Even expensive braid doesn't have enough flux on it for this, but
a small dab from a bottle of flux does wonders.

 

I consider a bit of flux in a bottle just about as valuable as diagonal
cutters on the bench. I have little 2 fl oz (50 ml)  bottle of GC
Electronics flux (P/N 10-4202) that I've used for years, and the level of
the flux is now almost below the top of the neck. At this rate I'll leave it
to a couple more generations of builders G.

 

Ron AC7AC

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lee Buller
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 7:07 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

 




I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I
was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was
using.  (Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not)  I had
to putt about 10 resistors of the board.  They are plated through holes.  I
did not have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of
somethingto get the solder out of the holes.  A small drill?  Anyone has
some comments?

Lee Buller - K0WA
Embarrased to say the least


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't
find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.
Is Common Sense divine?

 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread John R. Lonigro

Lee:
Besides using solder wick (available at Radio Shack, I think), you can 
use a needle to clear out the hole.  Solder doesn't seem to stick to 
needles very well.  Just heat the needle near the point while trying to 
push it into the hole.  Usually works like a charm.


73's,
John AA0VE

Lee Buller wrote:



I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and 
discovered I was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the 
parts and board I was using.  (Always check your parts before 
beginning - which I did not)  I had to putt about 10 resistors of the 
board.  They are plated through holes.  I did not have a vacuum 
desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the solder 
out of the holes.  A small drill?  Anyone has some comments?


Lee Buller - K0WA
Embarrased to say the least

  

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Jim Miller
I first use a bit of solder wick to clean up the excess solder on both
sides. This usually leaves a bit of recessed solder in the plated
through hole. I then use a stainless steel T-pin heated with a
soldering iron and held with a pair of needle nose pliers to press
through the hole. Once it is through I remove the iron and after it
cools a bit I give the Tpin a twist and gently remove it while
twisting back and forth.

It's always worked so far on too many holes to count.

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Removing Solder Through Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lee,

Good that you have finished the task without damaging the board.

If something like that happens again, remember that after the solder 
wick, you can open the hole with a toothpick, or even better a stainless 
steel needle.  In a pinch, a sewing needle will do the job nicely, but 
stick the eye end into a cork to keep from burning your fingers - the 
needle will get hot in the process.


With plated-thru holes, the name of the game is to protect the board - 
using a drill will remove the thru-plating from the hole - so don't do that.


73,
Don W3FPR

Lee Buller wrote:


Hey,

Lots of good ideas here.  I did use the solder wick.  That was a no 
brainer, but getting all the solder out of the holes is a different 
deal.  I rummaged around in my tool drawer and I found a solder 
sucker which was spring loaded.  I got it years ago from Radio Shack. 
I never had any luck with it...but in this application seemed to work 
well.  I got the holes cleaned upnow...I can start again.  But 
alas...I think I need to get some more resistors too...I broke one. 


Thanks for the ideas guys.

Lee - K0WA

  

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes

2008-12-29 Thread Joe W2KJ


- Original Message - 
From: Lee Buller k...@swbell.net

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes




I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I 
was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was 
using. (Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not) I had to 
putt about 10 resistors of the board. They are plated through holes. I did 
not have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto 
get the solder out of the holes. A small drill? Anyone has some comments?


Lee Buller - K0WA
Embarrased to say the least

Howdy Lee:

If you don't have good solder wick then try using a stainless steel sewing 
needle.


I've used a sewing needle many times and it works great...heat the pad and 
stick the needle down thru the hole while the solder is melting.


The needle will push the solder out the other side where you can clip off 
the excess and clean the remainder up with solder wickthe needle, being 
stainless steel, won't adhere to the solder so it will just pull right back 
out of the hole.


Best of luck in getting your board cleaned up.

   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore I am 


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[Elecraft] K3 Panafapter

2008-12-29 Thread Gary Gregory
And he wrote:
I'm keeping my PRO III because I like to use the panadaptor to keep an eye
on 6m. If an Elecraft stand-alone panadaptor appears, I'll buy it and toss
the PRO.
I don't see any advantage in Elecraft offering a computer-based panadaptor
- they already exist.

Maybe if the KPA800 had a built-in panadaptor. :-)

VE7XF

A KPA-1500 with inbuilt Panadapter.I could watch my signal go round the
world and back again to mama:-)

Oh yeah...better than ???...well maybe not, but at my age you are what you
are.:-(

Gone to check the mail box...
Gary
K3
679

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory

When you think your old. you are
When you think your crook. you are
When you think your bullet proof.your not
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[Elecraft] [ K2 KX1 K1 ] Advice sought on Elecraft radios

2008-12-29 Thread Daniel Paul Perez
I was wondering if I might get some insight, perspective and counsel on 
Elecraft CW QRP DX radios from the group.


About six years ago, I lived across the street from MIT Lincoln 
Laboratory and Hanscom AFB.  Space was limited so I built a NorCal 40A a 
purchased a Hi-Q-Antennas 380 Tune A Dipole NVIS for portable use inside 
or on a porch.  Subsequently I purchased an older non-dsp built K2 QRP 
#502.


To the point, I’m still not all that happy with the level of noise on 
the K2.  If I connect a miracle antenna or the hi-q-antennas between the 
NorCal 40A and Elecraft K2 the Norcal 40A is much less fatiguing to 
listen to and seems to “hear” a little better.  Additionally, a couple 
of hams from the local clubs CWA and PART helped me set up the 
HI-Q-Antenna 380 TAD in September at my new home and then we tried a $5 
home made 20M dipole between two trees oer a shed that was 
“significantly” louder on both the K2 and Norcal.  The NorCal 40A and K2 
are being switched back and forth in the same setting and environment. 
We had an MFJ antenna analyzer to test with as well – the 380 TAD tunes 
1:1 beautifully and is optimized for 40M and military frequencies.  It’s 
an impressive piece of engineering.  So here I am with an antenna(s) 
that cost more than the K2 radio, and satisfied with neither.  I’ve sent 
the K2 to Elecraft’s Gary Surrency twice who certifies its one of the 
ten best sounding and 10 best built radios he’s seen.  I’m using a 
Samlex power supply.  I purchased a Cobra Ultralite Sr. with a Balun 
Designs balun that I hope to have in the trees in the next few weeks 
when the tree guy gets out from under his ice storm damage workload. 
Maybe this wil be a game changer?


I’m thinking to go to a KX1, or K1 (build or purchase) or the Icom-703+ 
with 400 Inrad.  Would these be quieter radios more like the 40A?  I 
understand the 703+ and K2 are similar generation/concept designs.  Why 
is the Norcal 40A much quieter than the K2?  The radios are from the 
same pedigree and designer.  I thought about the basic K3 but I’m not 
sold on the K2.  Which receiver is better between the KX1, K1?  I like 
the concept of the KX1 as I‘m a functional quadriplegic in an electric 
wheelchair and smaller packages appeal to me.  However, I also have 
profound hearing loss and would need ipod amplified speakers on the KX1. 
 The K1 appeals as well, but will it be as fatiguing as the K2?  Would 
the 703+ be quieter than all of the above as well ?  How much better is 
the K1 or KX1 receiver than the 703+?  I also have spare 28A and 60A gel 
cell wheelchair batteries – could I power the KX1 or K1 with these?


My interest is QRP DX [CW] and in general lifelong learning about the 
world and environment.  I have been essentially off the air for 20+ 
years and used to be 25-30wpm.  My first rig was an Icom 735.


Thanks for your advice and patience.

Dan
AD1P
chesapeake1...@post.harvard.edu


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[Elecraft] K3 question: setting monitor level via serial port command?

2008-12-29 Thread Dana Roode
Hi all,

Does anyone know if there is a K3 serial port command to set the
monitor level?  I am using my K3 remotely and inadvertently set the CW
monitor level to 0 before I left my station today (it is 80 miles
away).  I have not seen a way to control this via TRX-Manager or Ham
Radio Deluxe.  I looked through the K3 Programmers Reference and
didn't spot it there either.

  Dana, K6NR
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RE: [Elecraft] [ K2 KX1 K1 ] Advice sought on Elecraft radios

2008-12-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Interesting observations, Dan. 

I don't have a Norcal 40 but I have built many receivers including single
conversion superhets like that.

First, for really easy listening, I turn the AGC off. I find that having
the band noise automatically pumped up loud between signals is very tiring -
sort of like living with a loud noise in the room I can't turn off. So I
turn the K2 AGC off for most work and ride the RF gain control. That way
signals sound natural, standing out nicely above the noise and, when the
signal pauses, the noise stays down at the same level. 

IIRC, the Norcal 40A does not have AGC. Nor do my homebrew receivers.  

Secondly, I find that really sharp I.F. filters are more tiring than wider
bandwidth filters. The primary reason for that is that, at narrow
bandwidths, all the band noise that comes through is almost on the same
frequency as the signal. In short, the noise competes with the signal like
QRM, not QRN. I can often copy CW, even very weak signals, much better with
a 1 kHz or wider filter than a narrower filter even though the wide filter
lets more total QRN through. My brain is better able to hear the signal in
the noise and pick it out if the noise isn't compressed into a narrow
bandwidth.

If the band is busy, it does require that you be able to copy one CW signal
while hearing several at once. That's a basic skill in CW, I think, but many
Hams today have never learned it, so they strive for very sharp filters that
cut out all but one signal. 

Even so, it's hard to pay attention to the 'voice' we want to hear if some
loudmouth is screaming in our ear. And, when the band if very active (e.g. a
contest) that happens often as very loud signals crowd close to the weaker
one we're copying. A narrow filter can subdue that loudmouth ;-)

But, almost all the time, I prefer listening to CW with a filter in the
range of 1 kHz wide. 

Setting up my K2 for no AGC and using wider filter bandwidths makes it just
a comfy to listen to over time as any other receiver I've used.

I also have a KX1 and it is a joy to listen to with its continuously
variable filter and quiet rx chain. (I disabled its AGC ;-) 

BTW, did you know that the designer of the NORCAL 40 is Wayne Burdick N6KR,
the chief designer of the Elecraft rigs?  

Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Paul Perez
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 9:32 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [ K2 KX1 K1 ] Advice sought on Elecraft radios 

I was wondering if I might get some insight, perspective and counsel on 
Elecraft CW QRP DX radios from the group.

About six years ago, I lived across the street from MIT Lincoln 
Laboratory and Hanscom AFB.  Space was limited so I built a NorCal 40A a 
purchased a Hi-Q-Antennas 380 Tune A Dipole NVIS for portable use inside 
or on a porch.  Subsequently I purchased an older non-dsp built K2 QRP 
#502.

To the point, I'm still not all that happy with the level of noise on 
the K2.  If I connect a miracle antenna or the hi-q-antennas between the 
NorCal 40A and Elecraft K2 the Norcal 40A is much less fatiguing to 
listen to and seems to hear a little better.  Additionally, a couple 
of hams from the local clubs CWA and PART helped me set up the 
HI-Q-Antenna 380 TAD in September at my new home and then we tried a $5 
home made 20M dipole between two trees oer a shed that was 
significantly louder on both the K2 and Norcal.  The NorCal 40A and K2 
are being switched back and forth in the same setting and environment. 
We had an MFJ antenna analyzer to test with as well - the 380 TAD tunes 
1:1 beautifully and is optimized for 40M and military frequencies.  It's 
an impressive piece of engineering.  So here I am with an antenna(s) 
that cost more than the K2 radio, and satisfied with neither.  I've sent 
the K2 to Elecraft's Gary Surrency twice who certifies its one of the 
ten best sounding and 10 best built radios he's seen.  I'm using a 
Samlex power supply.  I purchased a Cobra Ultralite Sr. with a Balun 
Designs balun that I hope to have in the trees in the next few weeks 
when the tree guy gets out from under his ice storm damage workload. 
Maybe this wil be a game changer?

I'm thinking to go to a KX1, or K1 (build or purchase) or the Icom-703+ 
with 400 Inrad.  Would these be quieter radios more like the 40A?  I 
understand the 703+ and K2 are similar generation/concept designs.  Why 
is the Norcal 40A much quieter than the K2?  The radios are from the 
same pedigree and designer.  I thought about the basic K3 but I'm not 
sold on the K2.  Which receiver is better between the KX1, K1?  I like 
the concept of the KX1 as I'm a functional quadriplegic in an electric 
wheelchair and smaller packages appeal to me.  However, I also have 
profound hearing loss and would need ipod amplified speakers on the KX1. 
  The K1 appeals as well, but will it be as fatiguing as the K2?  Would 
the