[neonixie-l] Re: Radio 4 time code.

[dr pepper]

Thanks for the replies.

At one time we were a proud nation, now its a case of in it for the readies.

looks like we'll be having radio 4 for the next 3 years then.

There are 2 other transmitters for radio 4 in scotland, they are synced to 
the same rubidium source, I take it if the main xmiter goes down they'll 
shut these too.

I've been researching and found some data on radio france, also on lw, it 
transmitts phase modulated time data too, and its synced to a caesium 
fountain resonator, I found a schematic to strip the data bits from the 
carrier, the encoding is similar to dcf77. I think I'll look into this, 
radio france doesnt have any sob stories about shutting down.

On Tuesday, 24 September 2013 20:05:17 UTC+1, dr pepper wrote:
>
> A question for those of us in the UK.
>
> I allready have a frequency standard that uses radio 4 on long wave to 
> synchronise to, however the carrier has phase modulated data on it, I 
> believe this is used by the power companys to control heating and the likes.
> Does this signal contain the time of day, and any info on how the protocol 
> works?
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/588e3358-b5ea-4250-a199-684fc2440a9b%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Radio 4 time code.

[dr pepper]

Yes of course a pll, my standard allready has one locked to the carrier.
I could incorporate another with a much quicker loop filter response to 
detect the phase changes.

I agree and disagree about the 'doomed' situation.

Some FM stations from the BBC are certainly pending 'doomdom', allthough 
due to demand they have suspended this.
Most of the AM stations that are going have gone, the rest are due to stay.
The beeb has no intentions of discontinuing radio 4 on long wave, what they 
said was the valves used in the transmitter are no longer manufacturer and 
it would cost too much to replace the transmitter, so when it goes down its 
gone, but it could last 10 years, by which time some cheap import 
transmitter may well be available.
R4 lw is used by lots of folk.

On Tuesday, 24 September 2013 20:05:17 UTC+1, dr pepper wrote:
>
> A question for those of us in the UK.
>
> I allready have a frequency standard that uses radio 4 on long wave to 
> synchronise to, however the carrier has phase modulated data on it, I 
> believe this is used by the power companys to control heating and the likes.
> Does this signal contain the time of day, and any info on how the protocol 
> works?
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/11615f0d-c28d-49f1-aeee-1397c7f906b4%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Radio 4 time code.

[dr pepper]

A question for those of us in the UK.

I allready have a frequency standard that uses radio 4 on long wave to 
synchronise to, however the carrier has phase modulated data on it, I 
believe this is used by the power companys to control heating and the likes.
Does this signal contain the time of day, and any info on how the protocol 
works?

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/05542339-0b96-4b82-a196-65ad30b89c11%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: 866 Mercury Vapor Rectifier as Novelty Lamp

[dr pepper]

Paint some of the white stuff on it from the inside of a fluorescent
tube, and you'll have a complicated white light bulb.

They made us wear safety glasses at my last place, they had a lot of
welding bays, and claimed that clear polycarb safety glasses spread
out the uv from a flash enough to largely reduce the effects, so a
piece of clear polycarb might work.

Does the bulb flash like in the vid or is it slower or faster in real
life.

On 29 May, 20:16, Grahame Marsh  wrote:
> On 29/05/2013 19:02, JohnK wrote:
>
>
>
> >         Much UV leak out do you think?
>
> >     ..clip..
>
> Fo a go-no go test you might look to see if the UV is strong enough to
> illuminate anything with UV writing on it.  UK currency notes and
> European passports carry invisible (to the eye) markings that light when
> lit with even soft UV.  My UV lightbox for PCB manufacture and UV leds
> are sufficient when held very close.  I'm guessing that USA currency
> and/or passports might be marked as well?  Or else writing using a UV
> security marker pen perhaps.
>
> Grahame

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/095fa858-b107-4028-be30-3759c270865a%40q8g2000vbl.googlegroups.com?hl=en-GB.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Numitrons spotted?

[dr pepper]

Theres a station out in the country not far from here that has the
same pumps, they are made by gilbarco, and there are still some pumps
with nixies in in this country.
Magnetic flip 7 segments still sem to be the norm here, lcd's are
creeping in slowly.

On 15 May, 21:02, threeneurons  wrote:
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2013 12:05:13 PM UTC-7, AlexTsekenis wrote:
>
> > Somewhere around the 38 sec mark, but it lasts for 0.2 sec or less so
> > don't blink!
> > Numitrons?
>
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5xhPAundL4
>
> > Alex.
>
> I caught a glimpse of it. Had to replay that part a couple of times. 0.2sec
> might be generous. It looks to be on the fuel pump. I vaguely remember
> numitrons on gas pumps. I definitely remember 7-segment neon panaplex-like
> displays being used. They had those at the gas station I regularly used,
> for a couple of years. But that would be back in the 80's.
>
> At least I learned something, by watching the rest of the video. Mixing
> diesel with gasoline, isn't quite the disaster its always made out to be.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Steampunk Spinner on eBay

[dr pepper]

Looks like an OG3

On 15 May, 21:28, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> And that is why I had to bid on it.  :)
>
> In a message dated 5/15/2013 12:54:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>
> threeneur...@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Interesting to see if it goes anywhere:http://www.ebay.com/itm/140976925149
>
> It's not my listing, and I'd say I have nothing to do with it, but I
> suspect I sold him the spinner kit, its based  on.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie driver problem when going over 170 VDC

[dr pepper]

What spence says, and keep your wiring short esp to the nixies.
A 1000u cap right at the power input wouldnt be bad either.
If the issue occurs at a certain ht voltage then maybe your reaching
the breakdown voltage of the switching fet/transistor, I've had this
before.
Another thing is the inverter high voltage supply inductor could be
saturating, this will happen suddenly and when it does it'll pull lots
more current and possibly deck the supply to your logic causing the
rtcic to freak out, if the inductor is warm then thats a sign this is
happening.

On 13 May, 15:17, Spencer W  wrote:
> You want a small capacitor, usually 0.1uF on each power supply of the ic as 
> close as possible to the pins.
>
> So on the ds1307, you want it on pin 8 as close as possible.
>
> This image shows what I mean,
>
> This goes a little deeper into why its 
> needed,http://hackaday.com/2008/09/29/parts-01uf-decoupling-capacitors/
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:49 AM, nix  wrote:
>
>
>
> > not sure. There is a capacitor on the highvoltage power supply. is this a 
> > decoupling capacitor?
>
> > Am Montag, 13. Mai 2013 13:45:46 UTC+2 schrieb Spencer:
>
> >> Do you have decoupling capacitors on all ic's?
>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
>
> >> On May 13, 2013, at 6:19 AM, nix  wrote:
>
> >>> Hello I just build my own Nixie clock with input from Arduinix.com and a 
> >>> power supply from ledsale (Build a nixie power supply - LEDsales)
>
> >>> Attached find the circuit and the pcb from fritzing. The clock works fine 
> >>> but when I adjust the high voltage with R36 the ds1307 module from Twig
> >>>http://shop.boxtec.ch/twig-ds1307-p-40355.htmlstarts to flicker because on 
> >>>the serial interface it shows strange numbers like 165:165:85. After a 
> >>>while it does not return the time over the i2c interface at all. A restart 
> >>>of the nixie clock starts showing the time again. With an oscilloscope I 
> >>>can see that after a certain position on R36 the SDA puls disapear and it 
> >>>shows a flat line. I think it is at high level. Not so shure how to read 
> >>>the oscilloscope.
>
> >>> Any Idea why? I don't see a direct link from the high voltage power 
> >>> supply to the 2 wire interface. (see attached circuit)
>
> >>> Kind regards
>
> >>> Sergio
>
> >>> --
> >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> >>> "neonixie-l" group.
> >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> >>> email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com.
> >>> To post to this group, send an email to neoni...@googlegroups.com.
> >>> To view this discussion on the web, 
> >>> visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/jgtKRhvfY7IJ.
> >>> For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> > email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To view this discussion on the web, 
> > visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/TaAzQP23KfEJ.
> > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Fascinating ebay sale ... apparently IN-18 production gear!

[dr pepper]

Looking at it you'd also need a air compressor and a power press for
the press tooling.

A visit to the seller would be a good idea to see what is included.

Setting up producing those tubes might be profitable, however
allthough not absolutely necessary you'd really need to speak to one
of the setters or production workers that ran the original production
line, so you'd need to speak russian.

On 6 May, 11:23, Zedsquared  wrote:
> This is interesting!
>
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261172534593
>
> I've not got the cash or inclination to buy but would love to hear what
> people make of this, it's a great insight into what goes on in manufacture.
> Does anyone know what the green machine with flames does?
> What's in the cans? (I'd guess getter compound maybe ).
> Looking at the Q&A so far it implies that the digits have to be made with
> the supplied "know how" ... photo etching techniques and recipies perhaps?
>
> Cheers,
>        Robin.
>
> P.S.    I guess I should introduce myself :) Hi, I'm Robin from the UK, a
> software and hardware computer guy with a nascent ebay nixie acquisition
> habit but only a few breadboard rigs actually built yet. Here's "hello
> world" from my first PIC and nixie setup:  
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqxDZUYhl2s
> Day job is R&D at a company fitting out emergency service command and
> control vehicles with tech, weekend job is pyrotechnician with skyburst.
> I'm currently spending most of my time in bed with a laptop due to a broken
> ankle, bah!

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Fascinating ebay sale ... apparently IN-18 production gear!

[dr pepper]

Sorry I'll correct one of my statements, I didnt mean to say empty
boxes, I meant sealed up boxes, so you cant actually see what your
getting.

On 8 May, 22:21, dr pepper  wrote:
> A very interesting ebay item there.
>
> You'd also need an air compressor and a power press to suit the
> tooling.
>
> I think the machine with the flame torches is for assembling the base
> and tube sections of the nixies, maybe someone here knows more about
> the prod side of things.
>
> Not everything you need is mentioned and a lot of the pics are empty
> boxes so you'd need to go and have a look at the kit, there could be a
> load missing, preferrably with someone who knows the process, which is
> rare now.
>
> Its quite possible the seller doesnt know much about the tubes, its
> just some factory clearance bloke or someone who worked in a russian
> nixie production plant and ended up with some stuff heading for the
> skip.
>
> Those tubes fetch a few quid, so if you did get all the special
> tooling and everything setup right it might be worth while, however
> I'd expect without one of the setters or knowledgeable production
> people to help you it'd be a bit of a long haul.
>
> On 6 May, 11:23, Zedsquared  wrote:
>
>
>
> > This is interesting!
>
> >http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261172534593
>
> > I've not got the cash or inclination to buy but would love to hear what
> > people make of this, it's a great insight into what goes on in manufacture.
> > Does anyone know what the green machine with flames does?
> > What's in the cans? (I'd guess getter compound maybe ).
> > Looking at the Q&A so far it implies that the digits have to be made with
> > the supplied "know how" ... photo etching techniques and recipies perhaps?
>
> > Cheers,
> >        Robin.
>
> > P.S.    I guess I should introduce myself :) Hi, I'm Robin from the UK, a
> > software and hardware computer guy with a nascent ebay nixie acquisition
> > habit but only a few breadboard rigs actually built yet. Here's "hello
> > world" from my first PIC and nixie setup:  
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqxDZUYhl2s
> > Day job is R&D at a company fitting out emergency service command and
> > control vehicles with tech, weekend job is pyrotechnician with skyburst.
> > I'm currently spending most of my time in bed with a laptop due to a broken
> > ankle, bah!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Fascinating ebay sale ... apparently IN-18 production gear!

[dr pepper]

A very interesting ebay item there.

You'd also need an air compressor and a power press to suit the
tooling.

I think the machine with the flame torches is for assembling the base
and tube sections of the nixies, maybe someone here knows more about
the prod side of things.

Not everything you need is mentioned and a lot of the pics are empty
boxes so you'd need to go and have a look at the kit, there could be a
load missing, preferrably with someone who knows the process, which is
rare now.

Its quite possible the seller doesnt know much about the tubes, its
just some factory clearance bloke or someone who worked in a russian
nixie production plant and ended up with some stuff heading for the
skip.

Those tubes fetch a few quid, so if you did get all the special
tooling and everything setup right it might be worth while, however
I'd expect without one of the setters or knowledgeable production
people to help you it'd be a bit of a long haul.

On 6 May, 11:23, Zedsquared  wrote:
> This is interesting!
>
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261172534593
>
> I've not got the cash or inclination to buy but would love to hear what
> people make of this, it's a great insight into what goes on in manufacture.
> Does anyone know what the green machine with flames does?
> What's in the cans? (I'd guess getter compound maybe ).
> Looking at the Q&A so far it implies that the digits have to be made with
> the supplied "know how" ... photo etching techniques and recipies perhaps?
>
> Cheers,
>        Robin.
>
> P.S.    I guess I should introduce myself :) Hi, I'm Robin from the UK, a
> software and hardware computer guy with a nascent ebay nixie acquisition
> habit but only a few breadboard rigs actually built yet. Here's "hello
> world" from my first PIC and nixie setup:  
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqxDZUYhl2s
> Day job is R&D at a company fitting out emergency service command and
> control vehicles with tech, weekend job is pyrotechnician with skyburst.
> I'm currently spending most of my time in bed with a laptop due to a broken
> ankle, bah!

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Six CD 47 / GR 414 Nixies on eBay - what price will it fetch?

[dr pepper]

At the price they are and the fact they are 'untested' I'd stay well
clear, why are they for sale untested?
With a clock circuit bunged in all working the unit would probably be
quite valuable.

On 8 May, 20:17, kay486  wrote:
> Exactly, i can not imagine how sky high the price will be. Curious thing is
> that they are untested.
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, 8 May 2013 19:25:01 UTC+1, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> > Nice auction:
> >http://www.ebay.de/itm/Extrem-selten-Rundfunk-Studio-Nixie-Uhr-mit-CD...but
> > what price will it fetch?
>
> > No connection to seller and not enough money to buy :(
>
> > /Martin- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Russian IEL-0-VI 8 segment displays

[dr pepper]

Thanks Dmitry.

My Russian isnt good either.

A sine wave drive isnt so easy on a dc powered device, especially at
200v.
I could use an rc filter to remove a lot of the harmonics from a
square wave signal and produce an approximate sine wave, I dont think
these devices will use lots of current so that should be practical.

I'm still not sure if these devices have a backplane or common or
whatever, might have to sort that out when they arrive.

On 3 May, 09:17, Дмитрий Дианов  wrote:
> Hello.
> As far as I remember, it`s known that such indicators "like" pure sine wave
> and are recommended to be used at 400 Hz. Maybe that`s only because 400 Hz
> is a standard power frequency in avionics or so...
> But the most of ELI I saw were of VERY dim light. Either they`re not
> mentioned as any bright in databooks, not so dim! A result of time, I think.
> I`m going to see how folks here in Russia powered them and tell you, but
> feel free to try - I`ve never heard about broken ELI :)
> Moreover, I saw ELI with broken glass that still were (partially)
> functional.
>
> Excuse me for my english,
> Dmitry Dianov.
>
> 2013/5/3 dr pepper 
>
>
>
> > Yes I read the VTA article.
>
> > Cant find it now but there was something showed up after a quick
> > google showing the pinouts, is there just a backplane and segment
> > connections as per an lcd, or is there other volatges req.
> > And would I need to have any dc bias like on some vfd tubes to ensure
> > the digits stay off.
>
> > It'll be interesting to see what happens JR, let me know what
> > voltages, connections and resistors you end up with.
>
> > On 2 May, 21:24, John Rehwinkel  wrote:
> > > >> Does anyone have any experience of these displays?
> > > >> As far as I can tell they are electroluminescent, and are driven from
> > > >> ac.
>
> > > You are correct.
>
> > > >> I'd like to use one of these and was wondering what sort of voltages
> > > >> and waveforms i'd need,
>
> > > You'll need about 100-300 volts AC.  Waveform and frequency don't matter
> > much, but DC won't work.  Higher frequencies will make it light bluer.
> >  It's really not very critical, they'd probably light just fine on wall
> > current, but you'd really want some sort of current limiting before giving
> > it a try!
>
> > > I have a few, I'll give 'em a try with some obvious things like one of
> > those battery-powered fluorescent light drivers and a trivial inverter (555
> > driving a switching transistor connected to a 8Ω:1000Ω transformer as a
> > step-up).  I'll also try an ordinary EL inverter with a capacitor to soak
> > up some output, since they don't like to run underloaded.
>
> > > >> they are similar in operation to a vfd but
> > > >> without a heater.
>
> > > Not really, VFDs run on lowish (24-60) DC voltage.  EL wire, panels, and
> > displays work more like a leaky capacitor, where the leakage reappears as
> > light.
>
> > > - John
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> > email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Russian IEL-0-VI 8 segment displays

[dr pepper]

Yes I read the VTA article.

Cant find it now but there was something showed up after a quick
google showing the pinouts, is there just a backplane and segment
connections as per an lcd, or is there other volatges req.
And would I need to have any dc bias like on some vfd tubes to ensure
the digits stay off.

It'll be interesting to see what happens JR, let me know what
voltages, connections and resistors you end up with.

On 2 May, 21:24, John Rehwinkel  wrote:
> >> Does anyone have any experience of these displays?
> >> As far as I can tell they are electroluminescent, and are driven from
> >> ac.
>
> You are correct.
>
> >> I'd like to use one of these and was wondering what sort of voltages
> >> and waveforms i'd need,
>
> You'll need about 100-300 volts AC.  Waveform and frequency don't matter 
> much, but DC won't work.  Higher frequencies will make it light bluer.  It's 
> really not very critical, they'd probably light just fine on wall current, 
> but you'd really want some sort of current limiting before giving it a try!
>
> I have a few, I'll give 'em a try with some obvious things like one of those 
> battery-powered fluorescent light drivers and a trivial inverter (555 driving 
> a switching transistor connected to a 8Ω:1000Ω transformer as a step-up).  
> I'll also try an ordinary EL inverter with a capacitor to soak up some 
> output, since they don't like to run underloaded.
>
> >> they are similar in operation to a vfd but
> >> without a heater.
>
> Not really, VFDs run on lowish (24-60) DC voltage.  EL wire, panels, and 
> displays work more like a leaky capacitor, where the leakage reappears as 
> light.
>
> - John

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Russian IEL-0-VI 8 segment displays

[dr pepper]

Does anyone have any experience of these displays?
As far as I can tell they are electroluminescent, and are driven from
ac.
I'd like to use one of these and was wondering what sort of voltages
and waveforms i'd need, they are similar in operation to a vfd but
without a heater.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Interesting VFD clock...

[dr pepper]

I was thinking of making one of those having found the tubes for sale.
I guess I wont be the first.

On 23 Apr, 16:22, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
> Not entirely nixie tube related obviously, but thought this was a pretty
> cool implementation using IV-26 tubes..
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMEMADE-VFD-Desk-Clock-IV-26-Nixie-Russian-7...
>
> Nope, still not affiliated with the sale! ;-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Nick

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: OG8 dekatrons

[dr pepper]

I havent bothered with a deka pend since, noone I've showed it likes
it, 'whats that thing doing'.
Personally I like the glow from a dekatron just as much as a nixie.
Next in line for build is a vfd, I have several russian jobs waiting
to be used.

On 26 Feb, 21:13, threeneurons  wrote:
> | I've played with og3's, I thought they were part argon, I might be wrong
> though.
> | The brightness of the glow is also a bit less than a neon tube.
>
> There are other gases that glow blue/violet. The only reason, I'm thinking
> its not argon, is that argon is a larger atom than neon. The color does
> correspond to energy transitions, with violet having the most energy, and
> red having the lowest. Orange is just a tad more energetic than red. How
> that translates to ionization speed, I have no clue. I tried looking at the
> emissions of these tubes with a cheap spectrometer, but still got multiple
> lines. It really needs to be done with a good quality calibrated
> spectrometer, and in absolute darkness. Still, a single element will have
> multiple lines, and it still may be a mix, of several gasses. I've also
> heard helium tossed around. That also glows blue, and has the bad habit of
> being able to leak right thru glass. That was a problem we had with HeNe
> lasers.
>
> So other than the high dud rates of these tubes, the glow brightness, or
> lack of it, is a second strike against these tubes.
>
> The 3rd guide doesn't really bother me. Especially, when stepped by a uC.
> That means 40 rods instead of 30, for finer resolution. That's why I like
> using Japanese DK23 dekatrons, with my "do-hickie" circuit. 40 rods, and it
> glows orange !
>
> Nice to hear someone else having a dekatron pendulum, as part of their
> nixie clock. Jason Harper started it a long time ago, and I've used it on 4
> of my own, but I haven't made a new clock in ages.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: OG8 dekatrons

[dr pepper]

I've played with og3's, I thought they were part argon, I might be
wrong though.
The only drawback for me was that they need 3 microcontroller pins, or
some circuitry to provide the 3 phases to drive them.
The brightness of the glow is also a bit less than a neon tube.
I had trouble getting the reset to 0 working, and opted for 3 neurons
detect on 0 approach instead, the tube is a seconds pendulum and mode
function indicator for one of my clock projects.

On 21 Feb, 20:28, threeneurons  wrote:
> Personally, I'm leery of all high speeds. I still don't know if there's a
> consensus on what the gas mix is in those purple jobs. I'm leaning towards
> hydrogen. If so, it'll react with the innards, and eventually, no joy.
>
> I haven't played with that tube, but I have looked at its datasheet, and
> its specs. Its similar to the OG-3, much in the same way that a GC10/4B is
> related to a GC10B, and a OG-9 is to an OG-4. In the OG-3, OG-4, GC10B, and
> 6482 only one cathode is brought out separately, while the others are
> ganged together. In the OG-8, OG-9, GC10/4B, & 6802, a few of the other
> cathodes are also brought out separately, using up the remainder of the
> octal base pins.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Testing nixie tubes

[dr pepper]

I've not heard of sleeping sickness till now, but I think I've seen it
on a couple of tube I have, they dont work untill I crank up the
volatge to the point where all the others are way too bright.
Like you I kept them in case they can be sorted, I'll put them on my
hv supply and cook them in and see if that sorts them out.

On 10 Dec, 21:37, Michel  wrote:
> > I can't bear to throw away the ones that
> > don't work, as they might be valuable to someone after the thousands that do
> > work are gone.
>
> > --
> > David Forbes, Tucson, AZ
>
> Yes, I know what you're saying, I even keep the cracked tubes :-)
> although they are completely useless to me, maybe one day someone
> might like to have them.
>
> Michel

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] My nixie/dekatron/neon bargraph clock in a girder

[dr pepper]

No its not an iron brew advert, its my clock built into a girder, I
got fed up of looking for a case and fell over an ally girder here at
work, so it became the case for my project.

I've been working on this for a while, it has 4 nixies a dekatron and
a neon bargraph, its controlled by a pic16f88, a 4017 (instead of a
74141), and a 555 for the power (the 555 generates 60v,250v,and500v),
the whole thing is built into an ally girder!.
The clock is synced to the 60khz npl time signal. The display will
show time, date and temp/humidity, theres a dht11 temp/humidity sensor
on the back.
The code took a while to complete, so did the case. The dekatron has a
pendulum effect and also tells you whether date or temp/humid data is
displayed.
The green led tells you its synced to msf.

Opinions welcome, I wanted something shabby chic, maybe I just built
something shabby, the mrs likes it though.

I'dve liked to show it working but my bench supply just blew it up
with 40v!, I'll add a pic or vid if theres interest. when I've fixed
it.

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/004.jpg

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] My nixie/dekatron/neon bargraph clock in a girder

[dr pepper]

No its not an iron brew advert, its my clock built into a girder, I
got fed up of looking for a case and fell over an ally girder here at
work, so it became the case for my project.

I've been working on this for a while, it has 4 nixies a dekatron and
a neon bargraph, its controlled by a pic16f88, a 4017 (instead of a
74141), and a 555 for the power (the 555 generates 60v,250v,and500v),
the whole thing is built into an ally girder!.
The clock is synced to the 60khz npl time signal. The display will
show time, date and temp/humidity, theres a dht11 temp/humidity sensor
on the back.
The code took a while to complete, so did the case. The dekatron has a
pendulum effect and also tells you whether date or temp/humid data is
displayed.
The green led tells you its synced to msf.

Opinions welcome, I wanted something shabby chic, maybe I just built
something shabby, the mrs likes it though.

I'dve liked to show it working but my bench supply just blew it up
with 40v!, I'll add a pic or vid if theres interest. when I've fixed
it.

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/004.jpg

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixies/VFDs on UK TV...

[dr pepper]

I'd like to re-create the display on one of the dr who films where
they showed the dalek computer, it had what looked like dge lit
displays but had a weird dalek type numeral pattern, anyone have a
picture of these?, it'd make a cool project.

On 12 Nov, 17:33, dr pepper  wrote:
> The bond film I think is an edge lit rather than a nixie.
> I have some old dr who films that show nixies, and I think theres a
> couple of the original star trek with them too.
>
> On 12 Nov, 10:32, Nick  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Infiniti ad 
> > -http://www.utalkmarketing.com/pages/CreativeShowcase.aspx?ArticleID=2...
>
> > The Bond "Goldfinger" nuclear bomb timer stops at... what else... "007" !
>
> > <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HrVIllWQyWE/UKDP-55ZtFI/Ao...>
>
> > Nick- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixies/VFDs on UK TV...

[dr pepper]

The bond film I think is an edge lit rather than a nixie.
I have some old dr who films that show nixies, and I think theres a
couple of the original star trek with them too.

On 12 Nov, 10:32, Nick  wrote:
> Infiniti ad 
> -http://www.utalkmarketing.com/pages/CreativeShowcase.aspx?ArticleID=2...
>
> The Bond "Goldfinger" nuclear bomb timer stops at... what else... "007" !
>
> 
>
> Nick

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: My first two-digit Nixie tube!

[dr pepper]

At last someone with a lab smaller than mine, I recently moved house
and aquired half a room for my 'shop, only problem is I still dont
have time to use it.



On 20 Oct, 23:43, jb-electronics  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> here are the pictures of one of the colon tubes (as always, air at 15mbar):
>
> http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/gl-ls-8_1.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/gl-ls-8_2.jpg
>
> Sadly, the upper dot does not always light up. It was a silly idea to
> parallel the two cathodes, next time I will have the two dots wired
> seperately.
>
> Jens
>
>
>
> > Hi again,
>
> > here is a picture of my "lab" / desk. I do not have a separate room
> > for my tube making, so I have to clean off the desk every time I need
> > to work for the university. It does not take much time, and so it is
> > actually an advantage because it forces me to keep my lab tidy.
>
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/lab.jpg
>
> > See the t-connector? This will be replaced by a connector with an
> > additional outlet (so 4 in total) for my needle valve.
>
> > I have been trying to build two colon tubes today, with some minor
> > success. Will post pictures tomorrow.
>
> > Jens
>
> >> Hello!
>
> >> By the way, how do You measure the pressure in the system? You
> >> mentioned the glow lamp is filled on 15mBar...
>
> >> Could You send a photo of the system You use for pumping and filling
> >> the glow lamps?
>
> >> The capacitor welder You have will work well, it is not suitable for
> >> welding materials with high melting temperature like tungsten and
> >> molybdenum, but for steel, nickel and so it is very good!
>
> >> > The problem with stainless steel wire is that it outgasses; I have
> >> a glow lamp with two stainless steel electrodes and it glows in a
> >> white-ish blue color, very strange. Will post a picture later this
> >> weekend if I don't forget.
> >> the bluish color is not outgassing, outgassing is when the metal
> >> releives trapped air, oxygen, CO2, moisture and so into vacuum, You
> >> can avoid that by heating the wire into red for a minute or so just
> >> before sealing and pumping.. Each metal behaves differently in
> >> discharge - different voltages and so, so it could be because of that..
>
> >> Dalibor
>
> >> Dne 19.10.2012 7:29, jb-electronics napsal(a):
> >>> Hi guys,
>
> >>> thanks for your advice. I think the problem is the one Dalibor
> >>> pointed out: with Dumet wire the sputtering is very high. Also,
> >>> since I am using no noble gas (except for the less than 1 percent
> >>> there is in ambient air), the cathodes are having a much harder time
> >>> anyway. So for now I will not install these tubes in a permanent
> >>> circuit since they would only last for a few hours.
>
> >>> I will wait for my needle valve (will be here any day now) and try
> >>> with Neon (and some day with Argon, too, of course). The ignition
> >>> voltage should be drastically lower, and the visibility should
> >>> increase.
>
> >>> The problem with stainless steel wire is that it outgasses; I have a
> >>> glow lamp with two stainless steel electrodes and it glows in a
> >>> white-ish blue color, very strange. Will post a picture later this
> >>> weekend if I don't forget.
>
> >>> Ah, by the way, I already have a small capacitor-based spot welder,
> >>> and so far, for my purposes, it has served me well:
> >>>http://www.robbe.de/welma-2000-punktschweissgeraet.html?___store=en
>
> >>> Jens
>
>  Keep up the good work !
>
>  If you need have some DXF files (vector format) on the digits you
>  want, or a image of the whole set, in a raster format, throw in my
>  direction. I'm in good with a guy that owns a steel cutting laser.
>  4000W of CO2 goodness. He'll run small jobs for me for nothing, as
>  long as I don't abuse it. That means pester him for work too often.
>
>  I still want that "1 - 12" "tri-quad" tube. 3 anodes x 4 cathode
>  sets (of 3).
>  --
>  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>  Groups "neonixie-l" group.
>  To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
>  To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>  neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>  To view this discussion on the web, visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/q3kWShptdnYJ.
>  For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide 
>  quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: My first two-digit Nixie tube!

[dr pepper]

I've wondered about using little to92 triacs to run nixies from,you
can get them up to 800v fairly cheap, you'd need ac to power the tubes
of course.

On 18 Oct, 07:51, "JohnK"  wrote:
> They are cute !
> Make more and do a Binary Clock. Use relays/valves  if you don't want to rig
> semis for the 550V+ .
>
> John K
> Australia
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "jb-electronics" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 12:26 AM
> Subject: [neonixie-l] My first two-digit Nixie tube!
>
> > Hi folks,
>
> > I did it: I have just built my first two-digit Nixie tube! I call her
> > "NX-LS-1".
>
> > She contains the digits 0 and 1 as well as a zig-zag anode. Filling is (as
> > usual) air at 15mbar. I will have my needle valve shortly, then I will be
> > able to do some neon thingies.
>
> > See some pictures here:
>
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_1.jpg
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_2.jpg
>
> > The digits glow in a nice purple, but my camera has a hard time to grasp
> > the color. The truth is somewhat in between the very purple and very blue
> > color in the following pictures:
>
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_3.jpg
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_4.jpg
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_5.jpg
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_6.jpg
> >http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/nx-ls-1_7.jpg
>
> > Jens
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: My first two-digit Nixie tube!

[dr pepper]

If you can make a nixie tube, which does look cool by the way, I'm
sure you can throw together a spotter from an old microwave tranny.

I have an old british federal spot welder controller, but it aint much
use as it didnt come with the little number plugs you use to set the
times.

On 16 Oct, 20:21, "Tidak Ada"  wrote:
> Bullshit, I did not remember you when I was at the Philips CRT plant,  there
> was a complete bobine of chrome-nickle steel wire of about the thickness you
> used. Problem would be to weld it to the feed-trough wires. Soldering this
> wire is not possible; it has to be spot welded.
> In case you have interest, I can send you some photo's of things I met
> there, to give an idea. So I have here  a frame, that is used to align the
> electrodes in a electron gun, that might give you an idea how to align the
> figures in a nixie. The frame is also used to press the glass ceramic studs
> that keep the electrodes in place in the tube. Also interesting photo's I
> made of a glassblower's tourch and the several satellite burners to place on
> top. Sadly I forgot to take a photo of the machine that does the work. I was
> too busy for a TCA member in Australia who has interest in materials and
> equipement for his experiments to make klystrons.
> There where rows of micro spotwelders on long tables, but it was too much
> work to remove them. I found one spotwelding head that was not mounted and a
> transformer for 5 V 330 A. I could take it home. Unfortunately the welding
> head is missing some parts, however, I think a can fix that. The price was
> low enough to take the risk. The most imortant is to develop a driving
> supply that doses the current and time. Powerelectronics are not really my
> favorite field
>
> eric
>
>   _
>
> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jb-electronics
> Sent: dinsdag 16 oktober 2012 19:34
> To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: My first two-digit Nixie tube!
>
> Thanks! The tube does not have a high lifespan: I used ordinary Dumet wire
> for the digits as well (convenience) and this sputters nicely; also, air is
> not the most ideal gas for discharge tubes, although it does look very nice
> (much nicer than I ever thought).
>
> I briefly thought about making some more of these (maybe 10) and build them
> into a binary clock or something ;-) But driving them is not practical
> because they do need 550V DC to strike.
>
> Jens
>
> Nice!
>
> So when are you ready to take orders? ;)
>
> /Martin
>
> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 3:56:02 PM UTC+2, Jens Boos wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I did it: I have just built my first two-digit Nixie tube! I call her
> "NX-LS-1".
>
> She contains the digits 0 and 1 as well as a zig-zag anode. Filling is
> (as usual) air at 15mbar. I will have my needle valve shortly, then I
> will be able to do some neon thingies.
>
> See some pictures here:
>
> http://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  
> tmp/nx-ls-1_1.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  tmp/nx-ls-1_2.jpg
>
> The digits glow in a nice purple, but my camera has a hard time to grasp
> the color. The truth is somewhat in between the very purple and very
> blue color in the following pictures:
>
> http://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  
> tmp/nx-ls-1_3.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  
> tmp/nx-ls-1_4.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  
> tmp/nx-ls-1_5.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  
> tmp/nx-ls-1_6.jpghttp://www.jb-electronics.de/
>  tmp/nx-ls-1_7.jpg
>
> Jens
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, 
> visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/4z6dIHzu0JAJ.
> For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Iv18 only smaller

[dr pepper]

IV21's thats em.

looking at your design they are nice and clear.


On 5 Oct, 11:26, "Konstantin"  wrote:
> Hi,
> It could be IV-21 or ILC1-9/8L VFD display
>
> I have clock on this  
> VFD:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250801254567?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trk...
> 84.m1555.l2649
>
> Best regards, Konstantinwww.kosbo.com
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
>
> Behalf Of dr pepper
> Sent: 05 October 2012 10:44
> To: neonixie-l
> Subject: [neonixie-l] Iv18 only smaller
>
> I've asked this on another forum a few days back, either no-one knows or its
> a quiet forum.
>
> I have a couple of 8 digit vfd tubes, with seperate grids, leads all at one
> end, I got them thinking they were iv18's, but when they arrived they are
> smaller, does anyone have any idea what they'll be, they are about 10mm dia
> and 75 long.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide quoted 
> text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Iv18 only smaller

[dr pepper]

I've asked this on another forum a few days back, either no-one knows
or its a quiet forum.

I have a couple of 8 digit vfd tubes, with seperate grids, leads all
at one end, I got them thinking they were iv18's, but when they
arrived they are smaller, does anyone have any idea what they'll be,
they are about 10mm dia and 75 long.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Philips CRT plant in Heerlen (NL) is closed. Inventory is selled out !

[dr pepper]

I'm surprised they managed to keep running as long as they have.
It seems to be 'the way forward', instead of re-equiping a plant for
producing other items just to shut them down and walk away.
Thermionics are disappearing.

On 30 Sep, 21:33, Tidak Ada  wrote:
> The CRT plant of Philips Heerlen is closed and the invetory selled out.
> Just for those who intend to build tubes themselves, there are hundereds of
> tube bases with evacuation pipe ande conneting pins for sale.
> Further boxes full of CRT electrodes, fritt, glass parts for D14 size CRT's
> P31 and other fosfors etc. Getters I have not seen during my visit, but may
> be in stock too.
> You can get information vis "Marktplaats" an (eBay doughter) 
> [http://link.marktplaats.nl/569849757] Mr. Max So will answer you.
>
>  P9300324.jpg
> 40KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Why is multiplexing nixie's bad

[dr pepper]

Interesting pojt Bill on the fact that some data sheets specify
multiplexing and some dont, as you say some tubes were not 'desgined'
to be muxed, I think thats probably because muxing wasnt common when
nixies were current, I wonder what manufacturers did to a tube to make
it intended for muxing, or whether its just a new spec applied to an
old design.

I really dont spose I'm going to know without trying if lifecycle is
greatly reduced without trying it myself, one thing encouraging is
that there are folks that have clocks with muxed tubes that have been
going for years, and theres no mention of anyone with a clock that
munches tubes every 10 minutes.

On 21 Sep, 19:48, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> I believe that the "singing" issue is primarily a problem with larger
> nixie tubes, of which I have no (as of yet) experience. I've never had a
> problem with singing tubes with IN-12, IN-14, IN-8, IN-8-2, IN-16, IN-17
> tubes.. but these are pretty small tubes (18mm digit height or less).
> never had a problem with ghosting either, but the IN-12's in a 1x6 are
> definitely lower brightness with a very slight flicker that is only
> noticeable from the edge of the eye. There is a very distinct "look" to
> the 1x6 mux, so I use it only for my lowest-end clocks. If I'm
> interested in how it looks, I'll use a 2x3 mux or direct drive. To my
> eye, the 2x3 mux looks a LOT better tan 1x6.
>
> -Adam
>
> On 9/21/2012 11:35 AM, Bill van Dijk wrote:
>
>
>
> > A lot of the discussion here about multiplexing is in generalities. I use a
> > number of Burroughs B5750 tubes (who have miraculously survived more than 30
> > years of clean-up attempts from the ball and chain :-)) and their
> > documentation specifically states that this tube is designed for time share
> > applications, and even provides data for increased anode currents at
> > different duty cycles.
>
> > Since some tubes do not have that information, I would suspect they were not
> > specifically designed with multiplexing in mind. This of course does not
> > mean it would be bad for them I suppose Any of the tubes I multiplexed
> > did not complain, although some did not like a 1-6 multiplex in the sense
> > that there were brightness issues and some ghosting issues to be resolved.
> > I have not had any noise issues from the tubes, but I use mostly small tubes
> > that may be less susceptible.
>
> > Bill van Dijk
>
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com]
> >> On Behalf Of dr pepper
> >> Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:10 AM
> >> To: neonixie-l
> >> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Why is multiplexing nixie's bad
>
> >> That answers a few points.
> >> So overdriving tubes isnt necessarily a no no.
> >> I also didnt know poisoning occurs at too low a current, better put a
> >> minimum brightness limit on any new designs then.
> >> I have a dekatron circuit that uses 'pull mids', it works without them,
> >> I was wondering why they were there, I think your comments answer that
> >> question.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Why is multiplexing nixie's bad

[dr pepper]

That answers a few points.
So overdriving tubes isnt necessarily a no no.
I also didnt know poisoning occurs at too low a current, better put a
minimum brightness limit on any new designs then.
I have a dekatron circuit that uses 'pull mids', it works without
them, I was wondering why they were there, I think your comments
answer that question.

On 21 Sep, 10:24, fixitsan  wrote:
> On Friday, September 21, 2012 9:27:18 AM UTC+1, Jan Rychter wrote:
>
> > On 20 wrz 2012, at 19:50, Adam Jacobs >
> > wrote:
>
> > [about multiplexing]
>
> > > You forgot the other pro's:
>
> > > - reduced power consumption
> > > - dramatically increased tube life at equal cathode current.
>
> > Ok, so has that actually been proven? I've seen opinions stating that tube
> > life is dramatically increased and others saying that it is dramatically
> > reduced. Some people say it has no influence at all. I'd really like to see
> > a definitive (e.g. fact- or reasoning- based) statement on the matter.
>
> > Anyone?
>
> > --J.
>
> It is clear that the statement was correct, considering it quoted "at equal
> cathode current"
>
> So take one nixe and turn it on , direct drive for 24 hours
> Take another in a 1:4 mux which runs for 24 hours. in this muxed case each
> tube is only on for 1/4 of the 24 hours. Therefore , where the cathode
> current is the same in a muxed clock as for a direct drive clock, the tubes
> in the muxed clock  must experience lower utilisation levels, individually
> speaking.
>
> Tube life is a function of cathode current (until the current is so low
> that poisining could occur). That suggests something of a relationship
> between lifetime and power dissipation. In many muxed designs the cathode
> current is increased and therefore the nixie lifetime would be reduced if
> the tube was always on. However, in a 1:6 mux although the tube is
> dissipating more power due to the higher current, it is only active for
> 1/6th of the time of an equivalent direct drive tube.
>
> I have seen several good statements made here, backed up with good theory,
> which suggests that a doubling of cathode current in a 1:4 or 1:6 clock
> doesn't affect tube lifetime when compared to a direct drive design using
> lower current, which didn't appear to bring about any controversy.
>
> Personally, I've run a 1:6 mux with 2.2 times rated current and a 2:3 mux
> with 1.6 times rated current, as well as a 1:2 mux (2 tube clock) with a
> 1.4 current multiplier. All clocks were sufficiently bright for normal
> viewing in a well lit room. Lifetime seems to not have been affected. There
> were early scare stories about reduced lifetimes when datasheet lifetime
> figures were considered sacred, but they all seem to have been false.
>
> The noise is often due to mechanical movement, I think it is caused by
> electrostatic effects. I noticed in one clock which sufferedd badly that
> when I changed the design so that instead of letting 'off' cathodes float
> they were instead tied to a mid level voltage of about 90 Volts, via a
> 'pull mid' resistor, that the noise was reduced. That might confirm that
> floating cathodes adopt a high floating voltage which is quickly removed
> when it is pulled to ground and that causes the electrostatic deflection.
> By reducing the energy which needs to be discharged the movement, and
> therefore the sound, is also reduced.
>
> Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Why is multiplexing nixie's bad

[dr pepper]

Well it seems my original post caused some interest.
I was aware of the brightness issues, its a similar story with leds.
I've messed around with 4 or 5 types of tube but never got any audible
sounds from them, I have with switching supplys, but later designs I
use are 30kc and up, I've just been messing with a minimal boost
supply that generates 200v from 5v and the drive waveform comes
straight off the microcontroller, I even have a brighness control
built in the software.
To conclude then it sounds like there is no major issue with muxing
tubes, so long as there isnt so many tubes that the current has to be
wound up so much that the tubes max isnt exceeded.
I'll remember this and if I decide to have a load of tubes on display
then I'll probably still multiplex them but in groups rather than an
entity.

On 20 Sep, 23:07, "Tidak Ada"  wrote:
> The noise made by coils may easily be reduced by the use of PlastiDipR
>
> eric
>
>   _
>
> From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kay486
> Sent: donderdag 20 september 2012 22:57
> To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Why is multiplexing nixie's bad
>
> I have a multiplexed Z566M clock and it makes quite a lot of noise. I think
> tha the noise is produced by the cathodes, because they arent completely
> fixed in place by the spacer rings, so they tend to buzz when they are
> multiplexed. Thats just my guess though.
>
> On Thursday, 20 September 2012 02:39:22 UTC+1, dr pepper wrote:
>
> So why is multiplexing a bad idea, and static displays make tubes last
> longer?, does multiplexing accelerate cathode poisoning or something?
> I have 3 or 4 prototypes I've put together and they all use
> multiplxing, even the single tube ones use pwm as a brightness control
> (and so probably inherit the 'bad habits' too).
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, 
> visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/fhVCo8sBnjMJ.
> For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Why is multiplexing nixie's bad

[dr pepper]

So why is multiplexing a bad idea, and static displays make tubes last
longer?, does multiplexing accelerate cathode poisoning or something?
I have 3 or 4 prototypes I've put together and they all use
multiplxing, even the single tube ones use pwm as a brightness control
(and so probably inherit the 'bad habits' too).

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: NE-2 lamps not fully blanking

[dr pepper]

I wonder if the resistors accross the ne2's is shunting current from
one nixie anode to the one next to it, as the resistors are in series
affectively from one anode to the next when q9 is off.
If you get the same number ghosting then this could be the case, ie if
one nixie is lit 2 and the one next to it it dimly lit 2.
The only solution that springs to mind immediately is having 4 'q9's',
one mpsa42 per neon then there wont be any shunt resistance taking
effect, in fact if you did this all the measures you've taken so far
probably wont be necessary, maybe you've reduced the component count
too much, at least you'd be able to drive 4 mpsa42's from the same o/p
on the pic.



On 12 Sep, 16:37, Ron Schuster  wrote:
> When I said this worked well, I had only tried this on one lamp, and it
> blanked that one nicely. Now I tried adding the resistors on all the lamps.
> This works fine for the lamps, but it's causing problems in the nixies;
> parts of the anodes and/or cathodes are glowing where they shouldn't be.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, September 8, 2012 2:29:30 PM UTC-4, threeneurons wrote:
>
> > A simple way, is to bypass the leakage. Tack a 470K resistor across each
> > neon bulb.
>
> > It only takes a few 10's of microamps, to make it glow a little. With a
> > 470K resistor, there needs to be at least 140uA, before the voltage gets
> > high enough (65V) to even begin to start glowing. If there still is some
> > glowing, then it may be a ghosting issue, someone else mentioned. But, if
> > its ghosting, you should also see it at the nixies.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: My first Nixie clock - video!

[dr pepper]

Looks good, glad to see someone else designing a clock.
Ok so you cant add a colon, I'd make the section of the display flash
so the user knows what they are setting.
I've tried using a motion sensor to switch on the tubes when a room is
occupied thats a good idea, my idea was just a condenser mic that
'listened' for sound, it doesnt really matter if the tubes get powered
up occaisionally by background noise.
I've been messing with the idea of using pwm to create a crossfade
effect on the seconds and mins/hours, it looks really good esp on a
lighthouse clock I've worked on.
If your using an avr you can have the chip generate the pwm to switch
the chopper transistor to generate the ht, I looked into this but the
pic chips I use have too low an output freq on the pwm channel.
MSF input is also a good idea, toom me a while to get that to work,
you have to wait 2 minutes every time a change to the code is made.

On 5 Sep, 15:44, ct13  wrote:
> My features wish list would be complete if you can add a hygrometer with an
> additional IN-19 tube to show deg C/F and %. I have not seen a Nixie clock
> with such a combination yet. Here's hoping you can incorporate them into
> the current design or a future release.
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 8:30:31 PM UTC+8, Imbanon wrote:
>
> > There are no more shared anode resistors :) Now each tube has its own
> > resistor. It is still a 2x3 mux design
>
> > I still don't have a finished PCB, as there are still some changes to be
> > made. I will make sure to let you guys know as soon as the product is
> > finished :)
>
> > On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 1:57:49 PM UTC+2, Dave wrote:
>
> >> Very nicely done with a feature rich options set !
>
> >> I would be interested in multiple blank PCBs.
>
> >> Please offer these in addition to kits, Thanks !- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Newcomer interested in Nixie clocks

[dr pepper]

Welcome to the forum Johnny.

If your a newbie to electronics then your right to build a kit
firstoff.

I've built various clock gizmo's, some nixie, some led some mechanical
its an addictive interest.

On 11 Sep, 03:47, Terry Kennedy  wrote:
> On Sep 10, 4:00 am, Johnny  wrote:
>
> > I saw Nixie tubes on some movie and got really interested, so I decided to
> > buy one, or maybe even make one some day.
>
> Welcome to the group!
>
> > After collecting some info, I
> > come here to ask you people for your webshops, as you seemed like you have
> > some quality clocks to sell, unlike some chinese clocks I've seen around.
>
> This is definitely the right place, as many people here design Nixie
> clocks, either for themselves or as kits / assembled units for sale.
> You can get quite a feeling of accomplishment by assembling a clock
> from a good kit, and it will give you good practice and background if
> you decide to design your own clock later on.
>
> I've purchased kits from a number of people in this group (and also
> pre-assembled clocks). Some of the ones I've assembled are:
>
> TubeHobby - Several kits using either IN-14 or IN-18 tubes 
> -http://tubehobby.com/store.php?cat=1
> Nixiekits - Various kits with different VFD and Nixie tubes 
> -http://nixiekits.eu/
> MOD-SIX - Amazing clock using giant B-7971 Nixies 
> -http://badnixie.com/BadNixie.com_Welcome.html
>
> The MOD-SIX is absolutely amazing (and even more goodies in the next
> version), but uses the 6 of the incredibly expensive B-7971 tube (over
> $100 each) and mostly surface-mount components, so definitely not a
> kit for beginners.
>
> That is just a sampling of the kits available, based on ones I have
> direct experience with. Other members will surely recommend some
> additional kits.
>
> You might want to take a look athttp://www.tubeclockdb.com/as it has
> reviews (often with video included) of many present and past clock
> designs, both fully-assembled and from kits.
>
> Also look 
> athttp://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/different/nixie-tube-links.htm
> - a huge list of many Nixie tube-related sites.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: NE-2 lamps not fully blanking

[dr pepper]

On Friday, 7 September 2012 15:39:02 UTC+1, Ron Schuster wrote: 
>
> I've built a 4-digit IN-17 nixie clock based on a 1x4 mux design. It uses 
> 4 neon lamps, 2 for the colon, 1 for the PM indicator and 1 for the Alarm 
> On indicator. I have a small problem where I see a dim flicker in the lamps 
> that are supposed to be off. They are driven as part of the nixie 
> multiplexing circuit. One side of each lamp is tied to one of the digit 
> anode drivers. The other sides are tied together and pulled to ground 
> through one common MPSA42 "cathode" driver. I think I have sufficient 
> blanking time between the digits. Each digit is on for 1 ms and the 
> blanking time between digits is 100 uSec. The nixies are showing no 
> ghosting at all. Any help in figuring out why my lamps are not turning 
> fully off would be greatly appreciated. Schematics are attached. 
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/aJ48G7a5N18J.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: NE-2 lamps not fully blanking

[dr pepper]

Hi again,
 
Good to see the 100k improves things, leakage either is or contributing to 
the isse then, maybe the base of Q9 is capacitvely coupled to something, I 
dont know why the 10k messed things up, 10k isnt a low enough resistance to 
upset the pic, if you pull too much current from the pic and force its 
current limit into operation then you can have all kinds of issues with the 
good old read modify write problem. Maybe something else odd is going on 
there.
 
Also I've had issues with nixies and led's for that matter when I've 
modified the data on the port controlling the cathodes (segments) before 
I've switched anodes, my more recent programs blank the display then switch 
the anode, then write the new value for the cathodes.
 
I think I probably misunderstood your schematics, I cant access them now 
the forum has changed but from what you describe it sounds ok.
 
R.E. the 32.768kc crystal and timer 1, I have a hard drive pendulum clock 
on my desk now, the display is on the end of the pendulum, the accuracy is 
very good, 3 secs per week, using a 32kc xtal is a good idea, my code just 
polls the bit of timer 1 that changes at 1hz, good power supply decoupling 
is essential and so's the 30pf or so stability caps for the xtal.

On Friday, 7 September 2012 15:39:02 UTC+1, Ron Schuster wrote:

> I've built a 4-digit IN-17 nixie clock based on a 1x4 mux design. It uses 
> 4 neon lamps, 2 for the colon, 1 for the PM indicator and 1 for the Alarm 
> On indicator. I have a small problem where I see a dim flicker in the lamps 
> that are supposed to be off. They are driven as part of the nixie 
> multiplexing circuit. One side of each lamp is tied to one of the digit 
> anode drivers. The other sides are tied together and pulled to ground 
> through one common MPSA42 "cathode" driver. I think I have sufficient 
> blanking time between the digits. Each digit is on for 1 ms and the 
> blanking time between digits is 100 uSec. The nixies are showing no 
> ghosting at all. Any help in figuring out why my lamps are not turning 
> fully off would be greatly appreciated. Schematics are attached. 
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/hOS4OFkoKfsJ.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: NE-2 lamps not fully blanking

[dr pepper]

Neon lamps will light from a very small current, I suspect you have a
leakage issue.
Try connecting a 100k or so from q9's base to ground to make sure the
tranny is off.
Maybe reduce the 33k feeding q9's base to 10k as well so the logic low
from the micro helps to hold it off.
You also have the neons connected directly to the micro, you might
want to isolate the micro from the neons and use a similar anode
switching method as you have used with the nixies, one of the
protection diodes of the pic could be conducting causing the neon to
light.

On 7 Sep, 15:39, Ron Schuster  wrote:
> I've built a 4-digit IN-17 nixie clock based on a 1x4 mux design. It uses 4
> neon lamps, 2 for the colon, 1 for the PM indicator and 1 for the Alarm On
> indicator. I have a small problem where I see a dim flicker in the lamps
> that are supposed to be off. They are driven as part of the nixie
> multiplexing circuit. One side of each lamp is tied to one of the digit
> anode drivers. The other sides are tied together and pulled to ground
> through one common MPSA42 "cathode" driver. I think I have sufficient
> blanking time between the digits. Each digit is on for 1 ms and the
> blanking time between digits is 100 uSec. The nixies are showing no
> ghosting at all. Any help in figuring out why my lamps are not turning
> fully off would be greatly appreciated. Schematics are attached.
>
>  Schematics.zip
> 93KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Design my own Nixie Clock?

[dr pepper]

My first clock circuit was a 7 segment led, and I built it using a
microprocessor, a 6502, I had little experience at the time and it
wasnt easy.

I suggest that you build a published design first then either modify
it or build your own version, I'd also reccomend you build one that
runs from low volts dc, mains powered stuff is kinda risky.

On 16 Aug, 02:52, "JohnK"  wrote:
> From my experience of modern devices I suspected that they are extinct.
>
> John K.
> [Some background in industrial engineering, ergonomics  and
> design-for-manufacture (which of course musn't nullify the user and repairer
> aspects).] Yeah I know "repair, what's that?"  Goes to show my age.
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Adam Jacobs" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2012 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Design my own Nixie Clock?
>
> > Also, I should add This is the reason that there is such a thing as a
> > "User Interface Engineer".
>
> > ;)
> >.clip...- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: High Voltage from 9V battery trick

[dr pepper]

I'd rather have an inverter than go and buy a box of pp3's at 5 quid
each.

On 11 Aug, 00:06, "Jonathan Peakall"  wrote:
> I did this several times as a kid and never did get them to set on fire,
> even when sitting in a puddle of gasoline. :-p  I have had a couple of cases
> split, but only just, nothing dramatic at all. Not saying it couldn't, just
> what happened when I tried it.
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
> >> I must have been 5 years old the first and last time I snapped two 9V
> >> batteries head-to-head; good thing my father was watching and told me
> >> that it was not a good idea.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Whats a divergence meter.

[dr pepper]

Not sure but I think its a device used in a cartoon type film or
series, some boffin builds a machine to tell the diffrence in time
between different worlds so that you can travel between then, the
divergence meter is used to set the travel machine.

I'm sure I got that completely wrong, seeing as it doesnt interest me
a great deal cant say I'm that bothered.

However there are a few that have built such things and integrated
them with nixie clocks, hence my post here.

On Aug 7, 6:19 pm, threeneurons  wrote:
> Ask Stewie Griffin to make you one:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AeLnu7Jsdc
>
> Can anyone elaborate on what one of these is?
>
>
>
> - Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Simple drive circuit for single pulse dekatron

[dr pepper]

Revival of an old thread.

Its a while back but I promised a vid of my nixie/deaktron/neon
bargraph clock, just found it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVYEiCc19Bs&feature=youtu.be

On 13 July, 15:14, dr pepper  wrote:
> Yes I could use something like a 4094 or similar, a few passives would
> be less room however, depending what values I'd need.
> I spose I'd like to get it working and see if its a better method, one
> bonus is the display boards would be nothing but passives without usng
> the shift reg.
>
> On 13 July, 14:42, Dylan Distasio  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Could you use a shift register to expand the available pins?
>
> > On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 8:49 
> > AM,drpepperwrote:
>
> > > I have a nixie clock prototype that uses 4 in1 nixies, a in9 bargraph and
> > > a og3 dekatron.
> > > The clock works well however the dekatron takes up 4 pins of the pic micro
> > > (3 for guides and 1 for zero detect), and I need these for further
> > > expansion.
> > > Is there an adaptation of the single pulse circuit that can be driven from
> > > 5v logic from the micro so that I can step the dekatron from just one 
> > > pulse
> > > output from the micro.
> > > I'm thinking a few resistors and high volatge caps for the required guide
> > > time delay.
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "neonixie-l" group.
> > > To view this discussion on the web, visit
> > >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/ZEV9RDcwzw4J.
> > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.-Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Whats a divergence meter.

[dr pepper]

Seen a few references to a 'divergence meter', a gizmo with nixie
tubes, or what look like them.
Looks like something to do with a film on TV, so probably a little
gimmicky.
Can anyone elaborate on what one of these is?
Might be a money earner for those building clock kits.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

[neonixie-l] Re: Simple drive circuit for single pulse dekatron

[dr pepper]

Yes I could use something like a 4094 or similar, a few passives would
be less room however, depending what values I'd need.
I spose I'd like to get it working and see if its a better method, one
bonus is the display boards would be nothing but passives without usng
the shift reg.

On 13 July, 14:42, Dylan Distasio  wrote:
> Could you use a shift register to expand the available pins?
>
> On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 8:49 AM, dr pepper 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I have a nixie clock prototype that uses 4 in1 nixies, a in9 bargraph and
> > a og3 dekatron.
> > The clock works well however the dekatron takes up 4 pins of the pic micro
> > (3 for guides and 1 for zero detect), and I need these for further
> > expansion.
> > Is there an adaptation of the single pulse circuit that can be driven from
> > 5v logic from the micro so that I can step the dekatron from just one pulse
> > output from the micro.
> > I'm thinking a few resistors and high volatge caps for the required guide
> > time delay.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To view this discussion on the web, visit
> >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/ZEV9RDcwzw4J.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Simple drive circuit for single pulse dekatron

[dr pepper]

I found the original thread from when I designed this clock.
No wonder there wasnt much interest, the pics show a bench full of
components connected up by crop clip leads, I can do better than that,
I'll do a short video and post it it looks a little better now
everythings fastened up in line.
Getting married Wednsday so my shop is a dressmakers at the minute so
might be few days.

https://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/browse_thread/thread/299b26872385bcbc/55cd1a992152b3e1?hl=en-GB&lnk=gst&q=dr+pepper#55cd1a992152b3e1

On 13 July, 14:12, dr pepper  wrote:
> I think I allready posted a pic, didnt get any replies, at the moment
> its a few tubes screwed to a piece of wood so I spose it doent create
> any inspirations.
> I'll see if I've still got any pics of it.
> P.s. the clock is synced to the msf radio time signal.
>
> On 13 July, 14:05, kay486  wrote:
>
>
>
> > That looks like an really interesting clock! Do you have any pictures or
> > video?
>
> > On Friday, July 13, 2012 1:49:57 PM UTC+1, dr pepper wrote:
>
> > > I have a nixie clock prototype that uses 4 in1 nixies, a in9 bargraph and
> > > a og3 dekatron.
> > > The clock works well however the dekatron takes up 4 pins of the pic micro
> > > (3 for guides and 1 for zero detect), and I need these for further
> > > expansion.
> > > Is there an adaptation of the single pulse circuit that can be driven from
> > > 5v logic from the micro so that I can step the dekatron from just one 
> > > pulse
> > > output from the micro.
> > > I'm thinking a few resistors and high volatge caps for the required guide
> > > time delay.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Simple drive circuit for single pulse dekatron

[dr pepper]

I think I allready posted a pic, didnt get any replies, at the moment
its a few tubes screwed to a piece of wood so I spose it doent create
any inspirations.
I'll see if I've still got any pics of it.
P.s. the clock is synced to the msf radio time signal.

On 13 July, 14:05, kay486  wrote:
> That looks like an really interesting clock! Do you have any pictures or
> video?
>
>
>
> On Friday, July 13, 2012 1:49:57 PM UTC+1, dr pepper wrote:
>
> > I have a nixie clock prototype that uses 4 in1 nixies, a in9 bargraph and
> > a og3 dekatron.
> > The clock works well however the dekatron takes up 4 pins of the pic micro
> > (3 for guides and 1 for zero detect), and I need these for further
> > expansion.
> > Is there an adaptation of the single pulse circuit that can be driven from
> > 5v logic from the micro so that I can step the dekatron from just one pulse
> > output from the micro.
> > I'm thinking a few resistors and high volatge caps for the required guide
> > time delay.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Simple drive circuit for single pulse dekatron

[dr pepper]

I have a nixie clock prototype that uses 4 in1 nixies, a in9 bargraph and a 
og3 dekatron.
The clock works well however the dekatron takes up 4 pins of the pic micro 
(3 for guides and 1 for zero detect), and I need these for further 
expansion.
Is there an adaptation of the single pulse circuit that can be driven from 
5v logic from the micro so that I can step the dekatron from just one pulse 
output from the micro.
I'm thinking a few resistors and high volatge caps for the required guide 
time delay.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/ZEV9RDcwzw4J.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie pendulum pov project.

[dr pepper]

Yes of course your correct.
Except for the complete revolution bit, you can buy commercial clocks
that have an inverted pendulum, that said the pendulum doesnt swing
under gravity its driven at a high enough frequency to eliminate
flicker.

I have modded the code for my clock so that now it works just like a
single tube nixie clock, it shows one number for 2 swings and then the
next, leaving a gap on the last number to show the start of the time.

It doesnt do what I first wanted, but it does make an interesting
display.

Dont think it'll catch on though.

On Apr 28, 2:22 am, threeneurons  wrote:
> I made a propeller Xmas display, a few years back. A major limiting factor
> is your eyeballs. My display rotates somewhere between 250 to 400 rpm. This
> limitation is due mostly to wind resistance. The motor free runs ~1800rpm.
> At that rate, it still forms an acceptable display. It falls apart if it
> gets too much slower. There really isn't anyway around it unless you
> re-engineer human eyeballs. You're just gonna half to swing it back-n-forth
> faster.
>
> That's maybe why, those you've have done it, just stick to complete
> revolutions. It just makes it easier.
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 25, 2012 4:07:07 PM UTC-7, dr pepper wrote:
>
> > ...unfortunately its naff, you cant read the display without squinting, it
> > swings just
> > too slow, unless one of you guys has any ideas I think this one can
> > be
> > shelved.
>
> > Pic:
> >http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/AFS.jpg- Hide quoted 
> >text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Nixie pendulum pov project.

[dr pepper]

Firstly this project has a led 7 segment display, however I intended
to use a nixie on the end product.

I saw a youtube vid for 'the first nixie propeller clock', maybe one
of you guys built it, its an excellent project however I wanted
something quieter that could run continuous.


So I came up with this prototype, its a pendulum swung by the head
assy and servo off a 3.5" hard drive (best I could think of at the
time) and a pic16f88, the pic 'knows' when the fire the servo coil as
it monitors the volatge from the coil (generator effect) and fires it
when it sees >20mV.


On the first try I used a led 7 seg display to see how it'd work, I
was hoping for something good or at least readable, but unfortunately
its naff, you cant read the display without squinting, it swings just
too slow, unless one of you guys has any ideas I think this one can
be
shelved.


Pic:
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/AFS.jpg

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Pendulum nixie pov idea.

[dr pepper]

Firstly this project has a led 7 segment display, however I intended
to use a nixie on the end product.

I saw a youtube vid for 'the first nixie propeller clock', maybe one
of you guys built it, its an excellent project however I wanted
something quieter that could run continuous.

So I came up with this prototype, its a pendulum swung by the head
assy and servo off a 3.5" hard drive (best I could think of at the
time) and a pic16f88, the pic 'knows' when the fire the servo coil as
it monitors the volatge from the coil (generator effect) and fire it
when it sees >20mV.

On the first try I used a led 7 seg display to see how it'd work, I
was hoping for something good or at least readable, but unfortunately
its naff, you can read the display without squinting, it swings just
too slow, unless one of you guys has any ideas I think this one can be
shelved.

Pic:
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan003.jpg

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Pendulum nixie pov idea.

[dr pepper]

Firstly this project has a led 7 segment display, however I intended
to use a nixie on the end product.

I saw a youtube vid for 'the first nixie propeller clock', maybe one
of you guys built it, its an excellent project however I wanted
something quieter that could run continuous.

So I came up with this prototype, its a pendulum swung by the head
assy and servo off a 3.5" hard drive (best I could think of at the
time) and a pic16f88, the pic 'knows' when the fire the servo coil as
it monitors the volatge from the coil (generator effect) and fire it
when it sees >20mV.

On the first try I used a led 7 seg display to see how it'd work, I
was hoping for something good or at least readable, but unfortunately
its naff, you can read the display without squinting, it swings just
too slow, unless one of you guys has any ideas I think this one can be
shelved.

Pic:
http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan003.jpg

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[dr pepper]

Just after writing the last post I opend my emails, and I have a mail
from a russian sounding name offering me nixie tubes, I'm very
carefull not to hand out my email addresses so I dont know how this
guy got it, I dont give my email address via ebay.

This is the address:

Нарт Виталий 

Any of you guys heard of it, I'm not saying anything bad about this
seller I dont know them.

On 24 Apr, 04:04, dr pepper  wrote:
> I have bought stuff from alexer1 and sovtube, and I have to say
> thankfully both did exactly as promised and turned up the goods.
>
> Alexer1 sent me another OG3 with another order after I had one show up
> DOA.
>
> On 19 Apr, 00:53, Spencer W  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Don't say that. I just bought 100 tubes and now I hope they will arrive. I 
> > was given a tracking number so will watch it currently.
>
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 18, 2012, at 5:24 PM, Tony Adams  wrote:
>
> > > Hi,
> > > Very good advice, I've had to do so in the past with a couple of other
> > > sellers and have had no problems to date with ebay and paypal issuing
> > > a refund.
>
> > > The problem this time was I trusted the seller to sort it out. I know
> > > better for next time and it's a shame I'll now have to be a bit more
> > > suspicious when there is a problem, even with sellers I've trusted in
> > > the past.
>
> > > Dieter, the seller is polivoks-russia.
>
> > > Tony.
>
> > > On Apr 18, 3:48 am, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> > >> Always use the ebay resolution center. Never let a claim lapse. I would
> > >> take this as an $80 lesson and be glad that it wasn't far more money. :)
> > >> If you let the claim lapse, you are telling ebay that you no longer have
> > >> a dispute. I always start the resolution center case _immediately_
> > >> whenever anything starts to go wrong. It is often good at lighting a
> > >> fire under the seller, even in the best of circumstances. If they
> > >> respond but they aren't solving it, then escalate it to ebay customer
> > >> service. They _ALWAYS_ favor the buyer.
>
> > >> -Adam
>
> > >> On 4/17/2012 6:13 PM, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > >>> Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
> > >>> from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
> > >>> arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
> > >>> asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
> > >>> after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
> > >>> bought directly.
> > >>> I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
> > >>> traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
> > >>> nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
> > >>> been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
> > >>> I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
> > >>> effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.
>
> > >>> Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
> > >>> that for less than $80?..
>
> > >>> On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Dieter Waechter"  wrote:
> > >>>> Attention Attention!!!
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > > "neonixie-l" group.
> > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group 
> > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.-Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[dr pepper]

I have bought stuff from alexer1 and sovtube, and I have to say
thankfully both did exactly as promised and turned up the goods.

Alexer1 sent me another OG3 with another order after I had one show up
DOA.


On 19 Apr, 00:53, Spencer W  wrote:
> Don't say that. I just bought 100 tubes and now I hope they will arrive. I 
> was given a tracking number so will watch it currently.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 18, 2012, at 5:24 PM, Tony Adams  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi,
> > Very good advice, I've had to do so in the past with a couple of other
> > sellers and have had no problems to date with ebay and paypal issuing
> > a refund.
>
> > The problem this time was I trusted the seller to sort it out. I know
> > better for next time and it's a shame I'll now have to be a bit more
> > suspicious when there is a problem, even with sellers I've trusted in
> > the past.
>
> > Dieter, the seller is polivoks-russia.
>
> > Tony.
>
> > On Apr 18, 3:48 am, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> >> Always use the ebay resolution center. Never let a claim lapse. I would
> >> take this as an $80 lesson and be glad that it wasn't far more money. :)
> >> If you let the claim lapse, you are telling ebay that you no longer have
> >> a dispute. I always start the resolution center case _immediately_
> >> whenever anything starts to go wrong. It is often good at lighting a
> >> fire under the seller, even in the best of circumstances. If they
> >> respond but they aren't solving it, then escalate it to ebay customer
> >> service. They _ALWAYS_ favor the buyer.
>
> >> -Adam
>
> >> On 4/17/2012 6:13 PM, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> >>> Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
> >>> from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
> >>> arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
> >>> asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
> >>> after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
> >>> bought directly.
> >>> I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
> >>> traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
> >>> nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
> >>> been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
> >>> I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
> >>> effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.
>
> >>> Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
> >>> that for less than $80?..
>
> >>> On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Dieter Waechter"  wrote:
>  Attention Attention!!!
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: What happend to all the ebay nixies.

[dr pepper]

I wonder if its me then, I just tried IN12 nixie, and the only thing
that showed up was 4 ready built nixie clocks.

Tried signing in, made no diffo.

Edit: sussed it, its euro ebay, being in the uk I sign in to
ebay.co.uk, I just signed in to the us one, ebay.com and did the same
search, and loads came up.



On 19 Apr, 17:51, Per Jensen  wrote:
> On 19/04/2012, at 18.06, dr pepper wrote:
>
>
>
> > The time before last when I did a search on ebay for nixies there were
> > serveral soviet ebay businesses selling various nixies, dekatrons,
> > numitrons and the like, all at reasonable prices and I've bought a
> > few, last nite when I did the same only a couple showed up, and they
> > were expensive, and there are currently no numitrons at all shown.
>
> > I wonder if this kind of line appears and dissapears over time on
> > ebay, or whether theres a shortage of these devices.
>
> > I'm aware that there has been some criminal activity which kinda makes
> > me think that supplies are drying up making it more proftable for this
> > kind of activity.
>
> > On 18 Apr, 21:32, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> >> Can you be more specific? The two types of nixies that I currently care
> >> about don't seem to have shown any change.
> >> IN-18's (the tube that I lust for in my personal clocks) are still
> >> hovering at roughly $40/each
> >> IN-12's (the tube that I use for all of my gift clocks) are still
> >> hovering at roughly $1.10/each
>
> >> Which particular nixies do you mean?
>
> >> On 4/18/2012 12:31 PM, jb-electronics wrote:
>
> >>> Yes, basically, looks like it. Another effect is that some criminals
> >>> use this trend, so better watch out...
>
> >>> Jens
>
> >>>> My post says numitrons, which is what I was looking for, I also meant
> >>>> nixies and dekatrons as well.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group 
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: What happend to all the ebay nixies.

[dr pepper]

The time before last when I did a search on ebay for nixies there were
serveral soviet ebay businesses selling various nixies, dekatrons,
numitrons and the like, all at reasonable prices and I've bought a
few, last nite when I did the same only a couple showed up, and they
were expensive, and there are currently no numitrons at all shown.

I wonder if this kind of line appears and dissapears over time on
ebay, or whether theres a shortage of these devices.

I'm aware that there has been some criminal activity which kinda makes
me think that supplies are drying up making it more proftable for this
kind of activity.

On 18 Apr, 21:32, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> Can you be more specific? The two types of nixies that I currently care
> about don't seem to have shown any change.
> IN-18's (the tube that I lust for in my personal clocks) are still
> hovering at roughly $40/each
> IN-12's (the tube that I use for all of my gift clocks) are still
> hovering at roughly $1.10/each
>
> Which particular nixies do you mean?
>
> On 4/18/2012 12:31 PM, jb-electronics wrote:
>
>
>
> > Yes, basically, looks like it. Another effect is that some criminals
> > use this trend, so better watch out...
>
> > Jens
>
> >> My post says numitrons, which is what I was looking for, I also meant
> >> nixies and dekatrons as well.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: What happend to all the ebay nixies.

[dr pepper]

My post says numitrons, which is what I was looking for, I also meant
nixies and dekatrons as well.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] What happend to all the ebay nixies.

[dr pepper]

Having just looked around ebay to get the type number of the last load
of numitrons I bought I realised that theres hardly any.
Are these devices finally drying up, might be worth holding on to mine
for a bit then.
Sovtube was shipping them by the 1000's, either its just a quiet
period or these ukranians are running out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] What happend to all the ebay nixies.

[dr pepper]

Having just looked around ebay to get the type number of the last load
of numitrons I bought I realised that theres hardly any.
Are these devices finally drying up, might be worth holding on to mine
for a bit then.
Sovtube was shipping them by the 1000's, either its just a quiet
period or these ukranians are running out.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Calculating multiplexed nixie's RMS current

[dr pepper]

Dmms tend to use charge balance techniques for measurements and these
can be way off at ac esp at higher frequencies.

A cheap old analogue meter would probably give you a better approx
reading.

Another way I have used is just supply the thing from a bench power
supply and look at the current draw difference between no tubes on and
one or more on, either multiplexed or not, the power supplys (your
clocks supply that is) evens out the pulses into a more constant draw
and provides a good measurement point, you just need to to subtract
the current pulled by all the support electronics.

On 14 Mar, 20:34, Cobra007  wrote:
> Yes, you're right Adam, I have to agree that my previous posts were
> indeed very strange :-)
>
> It would have been helpful if he had posted a schematic as I mixed up
> the current per tube and the total current a few times.
>
> The thing that is commonly correct is that the power supply's average
> current (12mA) should be the same in direct drive as well as
> multiplexed to achieve equal tube brightness. To achieve that, he
> would need approximately 7.5mA per tube (based on the 33.3 / 26.7
> dutycycle). If he uses one resistor per tube, the resistor would be
> around 6.8k. The common node current through 2 tubes would then be
> 15mA (which averages to 12mA over the 33.3 / 26.7 duty cycle).
>
> Since you're running with a 7.5k resistor already, going down to 6.8k
> is not going to make a significant difference in tube brightness.
>
> If 7.5mA currents per tube will kill the tube, I do not know.
>
> This is still a good trick to measure your average power supply
> current with a DMM:
> Use a relatively large (and at least 200V) parallel capacitor, then a
> series resistor (100R), then another relatively large parallel
> capacitor and then you can measure the voltage across the series
> resistor with a normal DMM, which should be 1.2V for 12mA.
>
> Michel
>
> On Mar 15, 2:57 am, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Why are you trying to achieve 8ma of current on IN-14's? Nominal supply
> > current for that tube is 2.5ma, everything else is providing excessive
> > current. Now, when multiplexing, lots of times we like to use excessive
> > current to make the display brighter, but I wouldn't kill myself trying
> > to achieve precisely 8ma - especially if it is a completely arbitrary
> > number. In my multiplexed IN-14 designs, I use 180vdc supply and a 1x6
> > mux. I never overdrive the tubes, I'm pretty happy with the brightness
> > as is... and the tubes will last a great deal longer. Do as Mike says,
> > run the experiments and see for yourself.
> > Also, be careful about taking Michel's advice... Lots of the things he
> > says seem very strange to me. Do you have a schematic for your design?
> > If this is a 1x6 multiplex, then you are only lighting one tube at a
> > time. (or 2x3 is two tubes at at time) I don't follow how he is arriving
> > at 48ma of supply current. :S
>
> > -Adam W7QI
>
> > On 3/14/2012 2:10 AM, Imbanon wrote:
>
> > > IN-14 strike at 170V, but when multiplexed this should be a bit
> > > higher. That's why it's set to 200 volts. It then drops to 140V
> > > according to the datasheet, but in reality, I measured 144. So if I
> > > take 200-140 it's 60 volts across the anode resistor, giving the peak
> > > of 8mA.
> > > But to be honest, I am really confused with this. By my calculations,
> > > with 26.7% duty cycle per tube, for current of 2mA, I should have a
> > > peak of 3.864mA ( 2/sqrt(0.267) = 3.864).
> > > So with my supply stable at 200V and anode resistors of 7.5K, I should
> > > get the 8mA peak on one tube, or 16mA on two tubes, but I really
> > > measure current of 6.4mA alltogether that goes from my supply. How is
> > > this possible? Why should my supply give me 48mA when I need only
> > > 6.5mA for two tubes at a time? By the way, I am using blanking period
> > > of 200us, so maybe the current really settles by this time, so the
> > > supply needs to give enough current for only 2 tubes.
> > > Can someone clear this out to me?
>
> > > And about that spider web.. it isn't really as messy as it looks in
> > > the video. It's just a matter of viewing angle. And everything is
> > > organised by cable color.
>
> > > Thanks
>
> > > On Mar 14, 1:24 am, Cobra007  wrote:
> > >> Wow, I like that spider web you created there!
>
> > >> How exactly did you estimate that a 7.5k resistor would result in a
> > >> 8mA tube current? Honestly, I do not know the nominal voltage of the
> > >> tube but I don't think it will be less than 150V. In that case, you
> > >> have a maximum of 50V across your resistor which would only be 6.7mA.
> > >> If you measure 5.5mA, the voltage across the resistor would be 41.25V
> > >> so in that case, your resistor should have been between 4.7k and 5.2k
> > >> to come to 8mA. My best guess is 4.7k. Try one tube and see if the
> > >> value is then closer to 8mA for that tube. Also check that your 200V
> > >> stays stable and can supply the required 4

[neonixie-l] Re: Important Lesson Learned Today...

[dr pepper]

You can protect against crashed programs from toasting tubes, at least
with the pic micro by using the watchdog timer, carashes can be
detected and dealt with.
For real expensive tubes you could add a capacitor resistor missing
pulse detector to power down the ht if the multiplex anode switches
die/

On 27 Feb, 12:06, Cobra007  wrote:
> No no, the issue was that it was stated that 7 transistors MPSA42 with
> a 300 Vceo could be replaced by 1 IC SN75468 with a 100 Vceo.
>
> The only thing I remarked was that this is only possible if the used
> voltage is not too high (not over 250V) because otherwise you couldn't
> blink the nixies to set the time for example (they won't turn
> completely off).
>
> If blinking is required in any of the 3 designs that I just showed,
> the transistors cannot be replaced with the SN75468. I didn't mean to
> say all of them are dangerous designs, I only say they all use a DC
> voltage above 300V.
>
> > Just so you know for the future, Geert is the son of the sites author
> > (Ronald Dekker), who works for Philips as is extremely well known
> > here.
>
> Thanks for letting me know, I am sure he will understand what my
> remark was about.
>
> Michel

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Question on haze around nixie digit

[dr pepper]

The arduino seems to be a popular choice and there is a lot of support
for this device.
I like the microchip pic range of micro's, a pic 16f876 would be
something I'd be looking at, or maybe a pic16f88 and multiplex the
outputs to the decoders, I cant remember if 141's have an enable input
or not, if not you might be able to power the chip up and down with a
transistor and use that as an enable, but test it first.



On 17 Feb, 03:06, "JohnK"  wrote:
> Ucc is a common term for supply voltage [Google it]. The 'cc' is probably 
> questionable in this case, but the U is common in Europe.
>
> Semi-related Factoid:- If you read early US books on wireless you will find 
> the term "anode" used in a sentence when they mean the supply voltage for the 
> tubes. Makes for strange reading today. eg, "..remove the anode if the 
> temperature exceeds..."
>
> Maybe my post is  one Lucky is having a crap-attack about. Well, I actually 
> asked the colour of the haze so I could repeat answers given over the years ! 
>  Jimi always got a mention if it was purple. And as for 'invention' - you 
> will never hear the end of that one. And because you thought it was finished 
> with I am not allowed to comment - oh deary me.
>
> jk
>
>
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: Frank Bemelman
>   To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>   Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 1:10 AM
>   Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Question on haze around nixie digit
>
>   So, is “invention” now a forbidden word?
>   Sheesh...
>
>   Yes I read everything. Dieter is NOT very helpful if he invents ‘new’ names 
> for things.
>   I can not recall someone using the “Ucc” ever being used in this and 
> previous Neonixie
>   newsgroup.
>
>   I am sorry you posted too.
>
>   But hey, it happens.
>
>   Learn to smile
>
>   From: Lucky
>   Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 3:31 PM
>   To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>   Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Question on haze around nixie digit
>
>   Don't know who is worse here.
>   Dieter for first stating 'Ucc' (I think maybe we are talking Vcc?) 
> Regardless Ucc had been taken to mean something "cold cathode voltage" Have 
> you not bothered to read the entire thread?
>   Me for repeating the same (or maybe just being naive)
>   Or 3 useless replies 2 of which are sarcastic, and one mocking the 
> 'Invention' word which I thought we had finished with!
>
>   Do you not wish to help anyone out? Do you not have anything to add, 
> informational or knowledgeable wise? If not why answer? Just to mock? And I 
> notice you did not jump all over Deiter when he said "Second, the lower the 
> Ucc (cold cathode voltage) the higher the haze"
>   Talk about childish! Sorry I posted.
>
>   Post
>
>
>
>  wlEmoticon-winkingsmile[1].png
> 1KViewDownload- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Digitally turn off 555 power supply

[dr pepper]

I've done that with my latest project.
The issue is the 555 runs off 12, and the micro off 5.

I connected the output of the micro to the base of a mpsa42 through a
10 resistor, the emitter to ground, the collector goes to pin 4
(reset) of the 555 with another 10k resistor from this pin 4 to +12v,
works fine.

The only thing to remember is that the pin is a shutdown pin, ie logic
zero turns on the 555 and therefore ht.
This method doesnt interrupt my voltage regulation technique using pin
5, and I've even found I can drive the shutdown input with pwm at
100hz to give a brightness control.


On 14 Feb, 10:37, Cobra007  wrote:
> Try this, it *must* work :-)
>
> http://xiac.com/Images/PowerSwitch.JPG
>
> Michel
>
> On Feb 14, 8:59 pm, StoopKid  wrote:
>
>
>
> > CTL high and RST low through 3904 give me the same results. The
> > schematic with the base Q2 HIGH works less well... I appreciate your
> > help, any other suggestions?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Burned K155ID1 chips?

[dr pepper]

If your using an old pc supply, that in itself could be the issue.
Pc supplied are switch mode and require a minimum load, if you dont
pull enough current on the 5v line then there will eb issues, drop
out, switching noise etc.
You need a 'swamp' resistor on the 5v, to dump about an amp, I've used
an old car headlight bulb on the odd ocaision just as a temporary
measure.

On 10 Feb, 16:32, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> So, it sounds exactly like what I said earlier, although you have 2 stuck
> bits.
>
> I ran into this once, but it was my bad solder job.   I would  double check
> that first, and if it doesn't fix then simply replace the  chip.  The cost
> of the chip is cheap compare to the time you have spent  trying to repair.
>
> I don't believe the chip can be repaired anyway.  :(
>
> Michail
>
> In a message dated 2/10/2012 8:20:30 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>
> imba.a...@gmail.com writes:
>
> I did  full testings of the chip. I found out that the first two bits
> are stuck on  01. So instead of  I get 0100.
> This means I only got outputs 4, 5, 6,  7, and so on repeating itself
> (instead of 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 its 4, 5, 6,  7, 4, 5, 6, 7, 4, 5,...
> even for the last 6 outputs that were supposed to  all give 0)

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Burned K155ID1 chips?

[dr pepper]

74 ttl as mentioned really needs a 5v regulated supply, the 7805 is
important.
Also a ceramic decoupling capacitor accross each chip supply pins is a
good idea, I've had similar issues with 74 devices, when the
transistors change state within the device there is a 'rush through',
sort of a temporary short across the 5v, this can deck the supply at
the chip if there is resistance or incductance in the supply to it,
which there allways is and cause a reset or screwup.

It does sound like the chips are fried though.

On 10 Feb, 04:56, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> Does 0101 give a 5 as well?
>
> Was wondering if 0100 is stuck.
>
> Does it count..
> 4 5 6 7 4 5 6 7 8 9 4
> instead of
> 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
>
> Michail
>
> In a message dated 2/9/2012 7:42:23 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>
> imba.a...@gmail.com writes:
>
> These  were the results; input 0001 gives 5 instead of 1, and 0011
> output 7  instead of 3,  etc.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Class action lawsuit...

[dr pepper]

They still put mercury in glass envelopes, there are several hundred
here where I work.
In the light fittings, 2 types high pressure and low pressure mercury.
and HID and metal halide.
Mercury is also present in reasonable quantity in fluorescent tubes,
of which there are millions all around us.


On 9 Feb, 07:42, Quixotic Nixotic  wrote:
> On 9 Feb 2012, at 05:04, Terry Kennedy wrote:
>
> > When I was a kid in elementary school, each year the science
> > teacher would pull out the jar of mercury and pour it into a
> > shallow pan, and we'd all run our fingers through it and marvel at
> > how something so heavy could be a liquid.
>
> In the UK, in the days of pounds shillings and pence, LSD, a ha'penny
> was very much the same size as a shilling.  So lots of schoolboys
> would break open a thermometer and coat the ha'penny with the mercury
> to make it silver and pass it off as a shilling - 24 times the value.
> Smearing the mercury on the coin with a finger, of course. I think
> that's what they call liquid assets.
>
> John S

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Class action lawsuit...

[dr pepper]

About the comments further up about what people 'should' be able to
do.
Its my opinion that at least here in the uk, there is a rot, esp for
younger people.
To be honest I dont think they could even change a diaper, everyone
thinks that everyone else 'ows' them something and gets all screwed up
about it.
Something will have to change.
So it looks like there might be a ban on tubes then, not good for
those making a living out of them.
You know if the legal risk or even law makes the sale of valve
technology difficult, all the stocks we still have will just get
smahed to bits and dumped in a land fill, highly responsible.

On 9 Feb, 05:04, Terry Kennedy  wrote:
> On Feb 8, 10:31 pm, Cobra007  wrote:
>
> > Very interesting.
>
> > They used to use bucket loads of mercury for gold mining, I can
> > imagine that being over the legal limit, but a few vacuum tubes?
>
> > If you still use PbSn based solder, can you sue the seller for lead
> > poisoning?
>
> When I was a kid in elementary school, each year the science teacher
> would pull out the jar of mercury and pour it into a shallow pan, and
> we'd all run our fingers through it and marvel at how something so
> heavy could be a liquid.
>
> When a friend worked stocking shelves in a supermarket, he was told
> that intact fluorescent lamps had to be treated as hazardous due to
> the mercury content, but that broken ones could simply be disposed of.
> He was "encouraged" by management to put the burned-out lamps in the
> trash compactor so they didn't have to pay to have them recycled.
>
> The municipal water line to my house was a lead pipe from when the
> house was built until 2007 (when it broke). The city wouldn't offer
> anything toward replacement as "it wasn't dangerous".
>
> Makes you wonder how any of us survived to adulthood...

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: A-108 Dekatron circuits?

[dr pepper]

I like the bent over electrode appearance of the a 108.
I looked at a russian datasheet for it and it doesnt show any guide
electrodes, it shows it as having 10 cathodes and 1 anode, no other
connections.
Its shown as having all the even cathodes connected together to the Q
of a flip flop, and all the odd to not Q, looks like when you toggle
the flip flop the arc jumps to the next electrode, implying only 1
direction is possible, maybe thats why the electrodes are angled over
to ensure transfer direction.

On 2 Feb, 21:59, threeneurons  wrote:
> > In case you make adapters for different dekatrons to the octal socket and
> > eventually make R7 and R10 switchable for higher supply voltages, you can
> > make a dekatron tester with the print. Don't forget to adapt the diodes D1-3
> > and capacitors C2-4 to the higher voltages. Some suggestions Mike already
>
> I was looking at the A108 data, and its description from the TCA
> sight. This is an odd animal, which, depending on hook-up, may, or may
> not, work with standard guide pulsing. The only way to find out is to
> actually run tests on a real tube.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: ABC, ancester of Binary Electronic Computers

[dr pepper]

I've read a couple of books on colossus, very interesting, probably
the first machine to have a bus structure, and it used loads of
bottles.
The next big thing was the american bloke who came up with the
'torpedo', and finally developed that into 'core' memory, a term that
is still in use today, pc's ahev core memory, the orginal meaning
refered to the fact that each 'bit' was stored on a magnetic core.

On 30 Jan, 20:43, threeneurons  wrote:
> >  The book I cited above covers the inventors and builders of ABC, ENIAC, 
> >Colossus, Z1 etc.  It is a very interesting book.
> >  Tim Laing
>
> J. Presper Eckert and John Mauchly, designers of ENIAC really had a
> run of bad luck. I read book on ENIAC. They followed that up with the
> UNIVAC, for commercial sales. Honeywell cited the ABC, to void
> Sperry's patents. Sperry made the UNIVAC line. They also worked on
> EDVAC, but von Neumann got the credit for its architecture, and all
> the processors that have been built since.
>
> Then there's the mystery of Colossus. It was kept top secret, until
> the 70s. They built either 10 or 11 them, during WWII. They recently
> built a new one from secondary documentation, as the actual schematics
> & blueprints had been destroyed for security reasons.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNIVAC_Ihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colossus_computerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atanasoff-Berry_Computerhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EDVAC
>
> As for personal history, my mother, and several other relatives,
> worked for Burroughs Electrodata division, in Pasadena, California.
> Shortly after the merger with Sperry, to from Unisys, they closed the
> Pasadena plant. Ironically, that same building was occupied by
> Earthlink during the height of the dot-com boom:
>
> http://www.computerhistory.org/timeline/?year=1956
>
> They too abandoned it after their merger with Mindspring.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Another All-tube Nixie Clock - On Youtube

[dr pepper]

Fascinating.

Reminded me of colosus, maybe thats where some of the ideas are from,
must cost a mint to make one of those, interesting looking at the vid
that the time counters at the bottom of the machine are counting in
binary, maybe bcd, the tubes higher up must be bcd to decimal
translater matrixes.

I really like the planar dekatron, if someone finds a load of those
stockpiled it'll make a few quid, but thats not gonna happen.

On Jan 27, 10:21 pm, Dekatron42  wrote:
> Dieter, you're correct of course! ;)
>
> You'll have to phone them up and convince them to do something with
> Dekatrons too!^ I emailed them a long time ago but only got a polite
> answer that they had no plans for that at the moment.
>
> /Martin
>
> On 27 Jan, 22:46, "Dieter Waechter"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > We Germans are CRAZY!!!
> > ;-)
> > Dieter
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Dekatron42" 
> > To: "neonixie-l" 
> > Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 10:37 PM
> > Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Another All-tube Nixie Clock - On Youtube
>
> > > Here is a link to the original clock that he copied his design from,
> > > "ONCILLA":
> > >http://www.emsp.tu-berlin.de/menue/studium_und_lehre/mixed-signal-bau...
>
> > **cut**- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Hello from Sydney

[dr pepper]

Hi Michel welcome to the group,

I have a remotely similar background, only my experience for the past
15 years or so is cnc machinery installation and maintenance,
computerised lathes and mills, some of the very first digital readouts
used nixies and theres still the odd one in use.

I've made various time keeping projects including nixie clocks,
however watches arent my thing.


On Jan 29, 5:25 am, Cobra007  wrote:
> Hello David,
>
> It is quite interesting but I came across your website while searching
> for a custom watch case for my domino watch, I think I sent you an
> email about that, or maybe I didn't actually send it out. At first I
> was quite interested in the nixie watch, I thought it was a nice
> concept and actually wanted to order one. That was until I read the
> story about battery efficiency and opening up the case to change the
> time. You wrote somewhere that it was difficult to achieve a better
> than 50% efficiency with off the shelve components, which is true, but
> it is not an off the shelve watch so why would you use off the shelve
> components? Another thing is that it was very big and I remember
> reading somewhere that someone called it a "hockey puck on a strap"
> which pretty much described how I looked at it. So I decided not to
> buy it but just see if I could make something better myself.
>
> While designing my domino watch, you stumble across issues that you
> would never worry about if the circuit wasn't battery powered, and it
> is challenging to make it all work and achieve excellent battery
> lifetime at the same time.
>
> I have seen you used some open source software in your watch, that is
> however not the most efficient way of software watch design. If
> someone would occasionally wear the watch, it would still drain the
> battery, no matter what. One battery will last for about 7 years if my
> watch is worn only 1 day per week and will last at least one year with
> daily usage. For this reason, it is not of much use to put a
> rechargeable battery in there. I'm not a fan myself to have a
> rechargeable battery in a watch, so for sure my nixie watch won't have
> one.
>
> Those Apple ipod watches . no, not something for me. I just think
> you can only call a device a wristwatch if the battery last for at
> least one year (without recharging), otherwise you just have a clock
> (or something else) attached to a strap :-).
>
> Anyway, looking forward to see your new design as well, I hope it is
> something more creative than  the 3 1/2 digit one that Jeff Thomas was
> working on already.
>
> Best regards,
> Michel
>
> On Jan 29, 2:08 pm, David Forbes  wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 1/28/12 3:42 AM, Cobra007 wrote:
>
> > > Hello everybody here in the neonixie group.
>
> > > I am also fascinated by wristwatches since I was like 5 years old. Had
> > > a small repair shop called "Kopriso" when I was 12 (see "Kopriso
> > > Watchmaking" on facebook).
> > > At some stage I came across Jeff Thomas and also David Forbes nixie
> > > watches and I thought it was a nice concept, but not very practical
> > > because of the size of these watches. I also think the watch enclosure
> > > from DF doesn't really match the beauty of the tubes and for sure
> > > there is potential in improvement regarding battery life.
>
> > > I played around with the tubes and batteries and found a way to reduce
> > > the size, improve the design and get better battery life at the same
> > > time. This design is now in a concept stage, I should receive the
> > > boards within a few weeks to try it all out for real (see "Nixie
> > > Watch" on facebook).
>
> > Michel,
>
> > Interesting work. The Nixie watch has amazed me in that no one has made
> > a similar design in the seven years since I made mine and published the
> > source code and schematics on the Web.
>
> > I'm also working on a smaller Nixie watch. There are batteries made for
> > Bluetooth that work well for this job. Recharging is something that
> > people are used to these days, what with phones and iPods etc.
>
> > I'm naturally driven by the Steve Jobs design ethic. Look up the iPod
> > aquarium story to see what I mean.
>
> > I'm still figuring out the buttons and power nibs to charge the watch.
>
> > We'll see what happens. A 3d printer figures in somehow.
>
> > --
> > David Forbes, Tucson AZ- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: arduino driven clock

[dr pepper]

I'd reccomend a numtron, they are the simplest kind of vintage
display, essentially just 7 or 8 bulbs in one glass tube.
A single digit version ought to be simple to build, do a google.
If your not writing the code a multiplexed display is simpler to
build.
You can still get 74141's on ebay, my designs use a 4017, its a 1 of
10 decoder and only needs 2 wires back to the microcontroller.
If you can solder then you can do it.

On Jan 26, 2:08 am, Sean Voisen  wrote:
>  If you want to build an Arduino-compatible numitron clock, you're welcome
> to clone my Bluenumi clock:http://sean.voisen.org/projects/bluenumi/
>
> Schematics, board, gerbers and Arduino-compatible source are all open
> source. They all live at the Github link from that page. It's essentially a
> bare-bones Arduino clone connected to LED drivers (for numitrons), piezo
> buzzer, buttons, and DS1307 real time clock chip.
>
> Of course, this will also be available as a kit in a week or two ...
>
> Sean

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

I'll run a search for them then.
I didnt really have much look here in the uk for a crystal oven, but I
did find a good webpage for a project oven, only simple maths and very
stable results.
I dont really have a desperate need for such a thing, its just an
interest, I've outgrown decoding time signals.

On 25 Jan, 17:04, David Forbes  wrote:
> On 1/25/12 9:28 AM, H. Carl Ott wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Tue, Jan 24, 2012 at 10:50 PM, David Forbes  
> > wrote:
> >> On 1/24/12 3:45 AM, dr pepper wrote:
>
> >>> Oh es, thanks for the link John.
> >>> The  problem with building a crystal oven is callibration, you need to
> >>> find out what temp the xtal needs to run at to produce exactly the
> >>> right freq.
>
> >> You can buy them on ebay for not much money. For that matter, a used
> >> rubidium source can be had for a few hundred dollars.
>
> >   Few hundred? I just got one from ebay (fe-5680a) for 43.00 delivered.
> > Going rate is under 50 bucks.
> >   Just have to figure out what I'm going to use it for.
>
> The price must have come down - I admit that I haven't looked for a
> couple years, since a guy doesn't need TWO rubidium sources.
>
> Unless he's the proprietor ofhttp://www.leapsecond.comthat is. In that
> case, he needs a suite of them to get much better composite accuracy.
> And a cesium clock to calibrate them against.
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: New to the group, prototype working.

[dr pepper]

I have my latest prototype of the radio controlled IN1 nixie/ IV9
bargraph/ OG3 dekatron clock working.
It syncs to the npl time signal fine, and does error checking every
minute, you can adjust the time on a single button if theres no
signal, it keeps time on its own too if required.
Heres some nasty pics, I havent got enough croc leads to connect the
dekatron as well as all this stuff, but it works.
Theres no noticeable difference when you call the speaking clock on
the 'phone and the clocks display, smart.

Couldnt work out posting photos, heres some links, nothing special in
fact its a right mess but its a prototype.

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan002-1.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan001-1.jpg

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/widgidibbie/Fan003.jpg


On 24 Jan, 13:56, dr pepper 
> In9's were in the bits box, simple as that really, judging by the
> colour its argon, I got it at 10mA full scale, I spose the accuracy
> isnt all that good, rusky stock.
> The tube gets warm after a while it burns around a watt or so.
>
> Good to see that the setup for the IN1's looks ok to you guys.
>
> My deka pulls only about 600uA with a 470k anode resistor, I might try
> a 330k and burn it a bit brighter, its only only short periods anyway.
>
> I like your site 3 neurons, I nicked the detect zero idea off one of
> your clocks, I came up with a similar idea but not quite as effective,
> you've abviously been through the grief of making it work.
>
> I might just order a couple of IN13's in case something goes wrong,
> the 555 circuit seems ok with it even though the prototype uses a
> satuarable inductor (a coil with a magnet inside, part of a voltage
> regulator for a telly), must make a proper one.
>
> On 23 Jan, 18:39, John Rehwinkel  wrote:
>
>
>
> > > Why not try a IN13 bargraph instead ? It only
> > > draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different.
>
> > May or may not be different: IN-9s come in both purple (argon) and orange 
> > (neon).
>
> > - John- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: New to the group.

[dr pepper]

In9's were in the bits box, simple as that really, judging by the
colour its argon, I got it at 10mA full scale, I spose the accuracy
isnt all that good, rusky stock.
The tube gets warm after a while it burns around a watt or so.

Good to see that the setup for the IN1's looks ok to you guys.

My deka pulls only about 600uA with a 470k anode resistor, I might try
a 330k and burn it a bit brighter, its only only short periods anyway.

I like your site 3 neurons, I nicked the detect zero idea off one of
your clocks, I came up with a similar idea but not quite as effective,
you've abviously been through the grief of making it work.

I might just order a couple of IN13's in case something goes wrong,
the 555 circuit seems ok with it even though the prototype uses a
satuarable inductor (a coil with a magnet inside, part of a voltage
regulator for a telly), must make a proper one.

On 23 Jan, 18:39, John Rehwinkel  wrote:
> > Why not try a IN13 bargraph instead ? It only
> > draws 4.5mA full scale. The color is different.
>
> May or may not be different: IN-9s come in both purple (argon) and orange 
> (neon).
>
> - John

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

Oh es, thanks for the link John.
The  problem with building a crystal oven is callibration, you need to
find out what temp the xtal needs to run at to produce exactly the
right freq.

On Jan 24, 10:39 am, dr pepper  wrote:
> So the number of cycles in a day has been abandoned, at least the info
> was correct.
> The sites are cool that show you the load, not many of those gigawatts
> are powering nixies.
>
> I'm surprised forensics can analyse recordings for mains hum at all
> these days, everything for the last 10 years has a switching supply
> and usually has an excellent hum rejection, any kind of hum is gonna
> need very fancy kit to pick up, unlike the old days where hum was
> allways there.
>
> I have a little experience of dealing with 50hz hum, for a while I was
> interested in vlf radio, 50hz powerline buzz is vlf's enemy.
>
> On Jan 20, 5:44 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
> > Got some recordings you are worried about?  heh.
>
> > In a message dated 1/20/2012 9:42:15 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>
> > nickst...@gmail.com writes:
>
> > That's  cool, but also a little  creepy;-)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

So the number of cycles in a day has been abandoned, at least the info
was correct.
The sites are cool that show you the load, not many of those gigawatts
are powering nixies.

I'm surprised forensics can analyse recordings for mains hum at all
these days, everything for the last 10 years has a switching supply
and usually has an excellent hum rejection, any kind of hum is gonna
need very fancy kit to pick up, unlike the old days where hum was
allways there.

I have a little experience of dealing with 50hz hum, for a while I was
interested in vlf radio, 50hz powerline buzz is vlf's enemy.

On Jan 20, 5:44 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> Got some recordings you are worried about?  heh.
>
> In a message dated 1/20/2012 9:42:15 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>
> nickst...@gmail.com writes:
>
> That's  cool, but also a little  creepy;-)

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

I'm interested in a OXCO if anyone knows a good design.

Also thought about receiving radio 4 on long wave 198 kc and dividing
down to 1hz, they use a rhubidium oscillator to make the carrier, dont
know why, I'm sure someone here does.

On 20 Jan, 18:42, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
> GPS is the way to go...or a DS3231 or similar TCXO...
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 10:28 AM, Joseph Bento  wrote:
> > You might have yet to find another location.  See
>
> >http://wattsupwiththat.com/2011/06/25/it-hertz-when-you-do-that-power...
>
> > We're about to drop our regulation as well.
>
> > Joe, N6DGY
>
> > On Jan 20, 10:45 am, Nicholas Stock  wrote:
> > > That's why I moved to the states...;-) ha ha
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: New to the group.

[dr pepper]

Thats interesting, I'm using 4 by IN1's, but not a a101 I have a OG3
single pulse dekatron.
I have a supply breadboarded, it puts 210 out for the nixies, I use a
12k anode resistor, befroe you shout my tubes are multiplexed by 5 (4
tubes and another slot for some neons).
My supply uses a 555 I like things simple, the supply produces and
regulates 210 and then theres a cockroft walton voltage doubler to
give me 420 for the dekatron. It works well, the only thing I noticed
is that when the IN9 neon bargraph gets toward full scale the dekatron
glows changes just a smidgeon, not because the supply has bottomed I
think theres some noise affecting it, but its not noticeable enough to
worry about.
The clock is looking good so far, I'd like to find a way of making the
power supply quiter, it takes out the 60kc msf receiver completely
when it fires up, not so much of an issue with my project, the nixies
are off most of the time, the system responds to a standard tv remote
control and fires up the display for 10 secs on command.

On 23 Jan, 11:56, Jan Rychter  wrote:
> On 23 sty 2012, at 04:10, threeneurons wrote:
>
> >> Although, if you are using a voltage doubler to get your HV supply, you
> >> will find that the supply sags as current increases
>
> >> -Adam W7Q
>
> > Yep, the ripple voltage increases dramatically, per multiplier stage,
> > given the same current draw. But the nixies are the devices that draw
> > the most current, with the dekatron drawing not even a milliamp. So
> > make the nixie voltage straight out, without the multiplier, then
> > double or triple the voltage for the dekatron.  ie, 180V nixie & 3x ->
> > 540V dekatron, or 220V nixie & 2x -> 440V dekatron.
>
> I built a PSU with a voltage doubler (200V doubled to get 400V). With 1mA of 
> output current on the doubled 400V output the ripple isn't a problem at all. 
> I think it was around 10V P-P.
>
> --J.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

Interesting.
Yes the grid frequency drops when the generating station is
overloaded, the gensets slow down and the output frequency depends on
ratational speed, theres an online gizmo for the uk that shows the
current frequency, it says at the lower end 'overloaded'.
This side of the pond you can get little metal can line filters, I've
robbed a couple from scrap computers, you might get somewhere with one
of these.
I work in a manufacturing plant, we work with polymer and use lots of
power, harmonic distortion and reactive power issues are a problem, we
have huge filters and power factor correction systems, anyway
distortion can produce odd effects, I cant explain exactly what would
happen in a clock to make it run slow but I can beleive it!.

On 19 Jan, 18:30, taylorjpt  wrote:
> Here is the modification for 
> 50Hz:http://www.tayloredge.com/storefront/1384_TIClock/1384_60-to-50Hz_Con...
> Note that there are some errors in the original schematic, cleaned up
> schematic here:  http://www.tayloredge.com/storefront/1384_TIClock/1384.pdf
>
> jt

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

My source for this isnt necessarily accurate, however they say the
mains freq is accurate in the uk over a 24 hour period from 9 am till
9 am, they speed up and slow down the gensets during the 24 hours and
at night time they control the speed to get the right amount of cycles
for the last 24 hours, ie your clock might speed up and slow down
during the day, but at 9 am it'll be spot on.
That could be twaddle I heard it on a well known vintage radio forum.
The stability of the mains frequency varies depending where you are,
the us however has a large grid system and logic states that they'd
have to keep the frequency accurate to maintain compatibility for
switching suppliers which happens all the time.
A 32.768 xtal osc is a good one to start with, the 32.768 is designed
for watches and divides down by 2 to 1 hz and they are stable when
loaded with the correct capacitance, next up would be a crystal oven,
do a google for that, my later designs are synced to the npl msf time
code sgnal on 60kc's, you can get a receiver on ebay for a few quid,
similar services are in use around the globe.

On 19 Jan, 00:35, Lucky  wrote:
> From the National Grid (Who supply/transmit our electricity) "System
> frequency will therefore vary around the 50 Hz target and National
> Grid has statutory obligations to maintain the frequency within +/-
> 0.5Hz around this level. However, National Grid normally operates
> within more stringent 'operational limits' which are set at +/- 0.2Hz.
> "
> The figure of 50Hz is derived from the alternators rotational speed of
> 3000rpm, 3200rpm/60Hz for the US. Most government institutions from
> the Post Office to the Railways used to use mains driven clocks and it
> was made statutory that the frequency would always average out at
> 50Hz.
> Whilst trying to find WHY we chose 3000 and the US 3200 (Which I
> didn't find) I did come across some interesting sites one being the
> National Grid themselves with a 'live' frequency graph 
> here:http://www.nationalgrid.com/uk/Electricity/Data/Realtime/Frequency/Fr...
> and a snazzy live meter here:http://www.dynamicdemand.co.uk/grid.htm#
>
> Even better, who says Nixie clocks are not accurate? 
> See:http://www.leapsecond.com/pages/atomic-nixie/including one of David
> Forbes Scopeclocks both "accurate to a few nanoseconds a day"!
>
> On 18 Jan, 20:00, Dutchgray  wrote:
>
>
>
> > > I guess that the additional question would be: How stable is the mains
> > > frequency in the UK?
>
> > Its supposed to be stable and analogue clocks driven from the mains
> > were once the norm in public buildings. I would use it as a time base.- 
> > Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Remedial Transistor Help

[dr pepper]

To get that to work properly you'd need to trannys, one pnp connected
to the led and an npn switching ground to the base of the pnp, a trick
I've used on nixie clocks to switch high temsion to common anodes.

On 19 Jan, 04:39, David Forbes  wrote:
> On 1/18/12 9:29 PM, Thomas K. wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have been trying to get this circuit to work for a few days and it
> > is driving me nuts!
>
> > I'm trying to make an array of tricolor LEDs (RBG with common
> > cathode).  The goal is to use 5v logic to turn on MPSA92 and light up
> > the array.I have 4 LEDs with three anode resistos (one for each
> > color).  I'm working with just the red now, as the others will be
> > clones of the same circuit.
>
> > When I connect the emitter to to +13v, base to ground or +5 through
> > any resistor and collector to the array, it lights up.  Only when I
> > disconnected the resistor (open), does the array turn off.
>
> > I have tried base resistors from 200 ohm to 200k ohm, and the same
> > deal.  When I use +5v on the emitter, however, the circuit works as it
> > should.  I feel like I am missing a fundamental property of PNP
> > transistors.  Any suggestions?
>
> Connect the emitter to the same voltage as the base circuit, and it will
> work. The base-emitter junction is a forward-biased diode, so any more
> than 0.3 volts will cause the transistor to turn on.
>
> A better design would use common-anode RGB LEDs and an NPN transistor
> pulling each cathode of the LED to ground with a 0 to 5V signal on the
> base through a series resistor of >10K value.
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Remedial Transistor Help

[dr pepper]

Try connecting the anode of the led to +12v through a resistor, then
connect the cathode of the led to the emmiter of the pnp tranny, then
connect the collector to ground, a logic zero on the base of the
tranny through a 10k resistor should light up the led, you need also
to connect a diode like a 1n4148 in series with the base of the
tranny, cathode to micro and anode to tranny (beacuse when the micro
goes logic high - 5v there will still be 12v - 5v = 7v on the base
still turning it on).

On 19 Jan, 04:39, David Forbes  wrote:
> On 1/18/12 9:29 PM, Thomas K. wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have been trying to get this circuit to work for a few days and it
> > is driving me nuts!
>
> > I'm trying to make an array of tricolor LEDs (RBG with common
> > cathode).  The goal is to use 5v logic to turn on MPSA92 and light up
> > the array.I have 4 LEDs with three anode resistos (one for each
> > color).  I'm working with just the red now, as the others will be
> > clones of the same circuit.
>
> > When I connect the emitter to to +13v, base to ground or +5 through
> > any resistor and collector to the array, it lights up.  Only when I
> > disconnected the resistor (open), does the array turn off.
>
> > I have tried base resistors from 200 ohm to 200k ohm, and the same
> > deal.  When I use +5v on the emitter, however, the circuit works as it
> > should.  I feel like I am missing a fundamental property of PNP
> > transistors.  Any suggestions?
>
> Connect the emitter to the same voltage as the base circuit, and it will
> work. The base-emitter junction is a forward-biased diode, so any more
> than 0.3 volts will cause the transistor to turn on.
>
> A better design would use common-anode RGB LEDs and an NPN transistor
> pulling each cathode of the LED to ground with a 0 to 5V signal on the
> base through a series resistor of >10K value.
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

Take care of clocks using the mains as a timebase like the ones
posted, they are for 60hz, ok in the us, but wouldnt be any good here
in the uk.
If you go for a crystal timebase then make sure you get the right
crystal, they come in series and parallel flavours, parallel seems
more popular, some 'computer' grade xtals can be dissapointing
stability wise, ood hc48u type ones seem to be reliable.

On Jan 18, 2:42 pm, J Forbes  wrote:
> Or you could use my scan of the schematic David posted   :)
>
> http://www.selectric.org/nixie/ticlock.gif
>
>
>
> > On 18 Jan, 03:47, mike  wrote:
> > > could you show me a simple schematic for it- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Homemade Nixie tubes project: Help with vacuum technology needed

[dr pepper]

Sorry to hijack a little, I was reading this very interesting thread
and found something of interest to me.
I like the induction heater, the simple design with 2 mosfets, I've
been looking for a simple design like this for a while, my mrs makes
jewellery and has been mithering for a ridiculously expensive
commercial one, gonna have a go at that one John.

On 18 Jan, 04:15, mike  wrote:
> here is one cheep
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html
>
> mike
>
> On Jan 14, 6:30 am, jb-electronics 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi,
>
> > > Vacuum gauges are made by Varian. There's a panel meter and a little
> > > metal gizmo with an octal base like an old vacuum tube. Look on ebay.
>
> > thanks, I did. The actual gauges are quite pricy, maybe I can use a more
> > ordinary pressure sensor and build a gauge of my own.
>
> > Thanks again,
> > Jens- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: trying to wrap my head around making a clock out of this

[dr pepper]

Heres a nice little circuit I found, you allready have the 141's in
your display modules, so you just need to build the lower part of the
circuit and graft it on.
The circuit has seconds display, you obviously dont have the tubes for
that, you could just construct the circuit and leave out the 141's and
the nixies for the seconds, everything else should work fine.
It uses 74 series logic which is less common.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tuberadios.com/nixie/nixieclock.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.tuberadios.com/nixie/nixie.html&usg=__0X4_oD8koW-GxuwQqQta4xSrqS8=&h=701&w=965&sz=117&hl=en&start=4&zoom=1&tbnid=nCydt-ZM_NQaAM:&tbnh=108&tbnw=148&ei=tmcWT-HEA6Hh4QSux_DlAw&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnixie%2Bclock%2Bschematic%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1



Heres another that uses 4000 series cmos chips, easily available but
you'd have to dump the 141's allready on the boards you have (silly
long link but it works).

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.electronixandmore.com/nixieclocks/nixclkv1.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.electronixandmore.com/nixieclocks/1.html&usg=__NHPFewjQxO4Tey-_2dcJdvWaaOo=&h=602&w=1014&sz=28&hl=en&start=12&zoom=1&tbnid=t2dVgcB-JrwFJM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=150&ei=-GYWT7rxEaPi4QSfkNjxAw&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnixie%2Bclock%2Bschematic%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1

On 18 Jan, 03:47, mike  wrote:
> could you show me a simple schematic for it
>
> thank you
>                    mike
>
> On Jan 17, 6:42 pm, John Rehwinkel  wrote:
>
>
>
> > >http://www.ebay.com/itm/190604819318?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid...
>
> > Should be easy enough to make a clock out of it.  If you care to multiplex 
> > it, you'll need anode drivers and perhaps some BCD buffers.  For direct 
> > drive, it's ready to go.
>
> > - John- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: ITS1A Thyratron Display (Old Topic Reintroduction)

[dr pepper]

I had to google thyratron as I never heard of them, not as display
devices.
Theres a couple of people built clocks with them, interesting devices
made by the october plant.
I'd like a couple of nimo's to add to my odd ball stuff.

On 18 Jan, 04:41, Joseph Bento  wrote:
> I came across my stash of four 1TS1A display tubes, purchased more
> than a year ago.  They are still waiting for a project.  I guess these
> really must be somewhat rare due to the scarcity of any information,
> and lack of any datasheet  I would be most curious to see any
> schematic that someone has done with these, especially a schematic for
> the very unusual power requirements.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] New to the group.

[dr pepper]

Hi guys I'm new to the group, I have built a couple of clocks before,
I'm working on a IN1 nixie clock with an OG4 dekatron and a IN9 neon
bargraph (seconds) at the moment, it uses a software module for the
pic micro to decode the msf time signal.
All the electronics (well nearly all) and software is my own.
The latest development is a switching power supply that uses a
cockroft walton voltage multiplier so that I can have just one power
supply inverter with 2 outputs 200 and 400v for the nixies and
dekatron respectively.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.