[RBW] Re: How have your Rivendells held up on salty winter roads?
I have been riding my Quickbeam all year round in coastal Massachusetts with road salt, and salt ocean spray since 2004. The bicycle is fendered, and shows some beausage Ted On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:33:04 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote: There is a 200k on March 5th I'd like to attempt. My only shot at training is during the next 5 weeks, and the roads here in Maryland are trashed with salt from the mild snows we have been getting, with more to come next week. Looks like no salt free roads for the next 10 days with the forecast showing sporadic snows three times a week or so until then. So how have your bikes fared in the heavy salt. I have full coverage fenders, so maybe that would help a lot. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] FS: lotsa parts
The great pre-moving sale, part 2. No reasonable offer refused. Shimano DuraAce 7400 Rear Derailer short cage Shimano DuraAce 7400 Front Derailer 28.6 clamp Shimano DuraAce 7400 SIS 6-speed down tube shifters Shimano DuraAce 7400 Brake Calipers (39-49mm, recessed) Shimano DuraAce 7400 Cranks 165mm 52/42 chainrings w/English 68mm BB Shimano DuraAce 7400 Pedals with clips and straps (but not the butterfly cleat clips) Shimano DuraAce 7400 6sp Freewheel 13-21 Shimano DuraAce 7400 Seatpost - 27.0mm Shimano DuraAce 7400 Headset - english j Wheels: Shimano DuraAce 7400 hubs (with QR), Torelli clincher rims (Built by Joe Young) All in VG to excellent condition Shimano BR5500 103 Brake Calipers normal reach SunTour Superbe Pro Cranks 172.5mm w/English 68mm BB VG condition SunTour XC Pro rear derailed short cage VG condition (2 of them) SunTour Cyclone Mk II Front Der 28.6mm band clamp good cond. SRAM Red 2010 Front Derailer braze-on with 28.6mm clamp exc cond. Brooks B17 saddles: B17S (Ladies) honey brown regular rivets, barely used B17 honey brown large rivets, used, visible twist B17 honey brown large rivets, well used, bit of a twist DiaCompe Brake Levers - non-aero, built in QR, natural hoods, exc cond. DiaCompe Brake Levers - aero, adjustable leverage - new cond. Simplex SLJ 5500 Real Derailer - needs pivot bolt - otherwise excellent Mafac Competition center pull caliper with springs and arm for mounting to frame without braze ons, but no hardware. Appears hardly used. Mafac rear cable hanger (mounts to seatpost bolt) Mafac brake levers - dual cable (for tandem) - no hoods - used, but in good shape Nitto ZAR 70mm Decaleur new Sugino BB 7420 103mm new Kelly Take-Offs - just the take-offs, no hardware A little over 2000 assorted Willow chainrings, including Triplizers hardware, with a supply of poly bags and an impulse sealer. Gotta take the whole thing. Ted Durant Milwaukee, WI -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Coldest Ride on a Rivendell Ever?
My coldest day happened on my regular commute. It normally takes 45 minutes. That day it took 1 1/2 hours. When I finally got to work I looked up the weather and found out it was 3 below (Fahrenheit) with a 25 mph headwind. It took a while for my water bottle to thaw, and my brain engage. The rest was ok, just cooked from the upwind ride. My normal cold weather equipment is a layered approach, and thin wool socks, thick wool socks, and a goretex oversock with Shimano sandles. The feet are well insulated, not constricted, and don't have booty/shoe/cleat holes Ted Shwartz -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?
Dan, Although I appreciate your offer, I am satisfied with the way I currently have my fender mounted (with a sliding thing). Also my brake bridge is square in the middle, and it seems like a shame to butcher such a neat widget by filing it flat. I suppose someone could use half a piece of rod to fill the cut out, but probably using it on a round bridge (as intended) would be most satisfying. Peter certainly did sound excited about locating one, so perhaps he will take you up on it. thnks Ted On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 5:49:36 AM UTC-8, danmc wrote: I finally had time to go through the parts and I have two of those widgets from Anton. The frames they were intended for have moved on so they are available if the OP and Peter are interested. Dan On Dec 30, 2014, at 9:24 PM, Peter Adler divis...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: That looks ideal. On the offchance that you keep track of older purchases: Do you recall what the widget's French name is? I'm assuming it was a common part, but only in France (for perma-mounting fenders on 700c frames without predrilled brake bridges, perhaps). But given the current run of listings on eBay.fr, I'm guessing that anyone who's selling these has no idea what they are, so it'll be hard to ferret out. Peter Adler who wishes he had one of these *right now* to get a rear fender on before Stormageddon II: Apocalypse of the Drought-Stricken hits in Berkeley, CA/USA On Saturday, December 20, 2014 7:08:11 AM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote: Another solution is this little French widget. I got a bunch of these and offered them up on the Bob and RBW lists a couple of years ago. I only have one left, in anticipation of me being in this situation one day, otherwise I'd offer it up: It's designed for mounting a fender to a typical tubular brake bridge (without the modern Square center section). If you were able to source one of these, you could file the curved recess flat to fit the square section of the bridge. Or if you know someone with a lathe, this could be a really fast and easy widget to make. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: lugged stem or post slipping
Fair enough, though I was mostly interested in folks experiences with the similarly extra expensive stems. But then the stems are probably even more subject to fetishizing charges since they don't even have the sometimes useful huge setback of the posts to justify their existence. In any case ... It seems like the nice plated finish on those steel parts is quite slippery. I wonder if the risk of a stem or post getting stuck (occasionally happens with more commonly used Al parts) or creaking is eliminated with that finish. If it is, the practice of greasing the inserted portion may not be appropriate in those cases. The whole galvanic corrosion thing must be different too, with nickel plated steel in a steel tube instead of Al in a steel tube. What does your extensive shop experience recommend (besides buying inexpensive Al parts)? On Monday, December 29, 2014 7:30:02 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: Interesting thought about fetishizing bike parts. As we talk about strategies for coping with $200 seatposts that slip rather than the $20 posts that don't slip... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: What's your winter project?
On the Quickbeam, New Bar tape, twine and shellac (just do at least every 10 years) New Rando bike -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] lugged stem or post slipping
I usually put a liberal coat of grease on seat posts and stems prior to installing them. The intent being to avoid creaking and / or parts becoming stuck. When I put a Nitto lugged seat post on my Bombadil I had trouble getting it to stay put. On every ride it would slip down in the seat tube. Eventually I wiped the post and the inside of my seat tube as clean as I could, and since then things have been fine. I think I read somebody commenting that the lugged stem always tended to slip on them. My bullmoose bars generally stay put but any time the bike falls over they do end up off center. So I wonder, is there a consensus on the best approach to installing Nitto steel stems and seat posts with the dull bright coating. Grease, no grease, Boeshield T9, bees wax, ... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Which is best: Roll-out or default tire size on cyclecomputer or measuring wheel vertically?
You will get the most accurate measurements by carefully measuring your roll out and using a cyclecomputer that counts wheel revolutions. I find the easiest way to measure roll out is to lay out a 50' cloth tape (using bricks or rocks to weight the ends helps), line up the valve stem at the 1 foot mark, then roll along the tape and stop with the valve stem at the bottom and read off the distance (don't forget to subtract the 1 foot for where you started). Alternatively you can use chalk to mark the road next to the valve stem and measure between the marks. Either way have the tire inflated to normal pressure and sit on the bike as you roll. I find it's easiest to do this right next to the sidewalk curb out in front of my house, but any parking lot should suffice. If that's more trouble than you want to deal with, just linearly interpolate between 25.35 in. for a 32mm tire and 25.84 in for a 45mm tire. Those are values I got with 650B GB Cypres, and 650B Schwalbe fatty respectively. On Saturday, December 20, 2014 6:21:29 AM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote: Which method is more accurate for getting more accurate cyclecomputer data? I am mostly interested in the miles ridden being accurate, if that is even possible on a cyclecomputer. I don't know how accurate these things are. My cycling app shows very different speed reads than my cycle computer. Also, which is more accurate? An iPhone cyclecomputer app, or an actual cycle computer? I am guessing the app is using GPS, but I have heard that GPS isn't so accurate either. *Rivcontent:* 1.Only one 650b size is available on cyclecomputers I have, so unless I have 37mm tires, I can't get an accurate read using that. 2. I find it difficult to accurately measure from ground to hub axle center accurately. Is that tire *really* standing vertical? 3. Roll out may be easier better? Lastly, if I have been using the one and only 650b x 37mm default wheel size setting on my cycle computer with my 42mm wide tires, I am guessing that the distances are being represented as shorter and the speeds shown as slower since the bigger actual tire is taking longer to make one revolution than the computer is expecting for the wheel size setting of 650b x 37mm? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Which is best: Roll-out or default tire size on cyclecomputer or measuring wheel vertically?
If you want to eliminate the discrepancy, just reduce the wheel circumference setting on your cateye by 2% (1 mile in 50 is 2 in 100 is 2%). On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:15:38 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote: Good question. I set my CatEye up as 700x32 (Compass Stampede Pass). The computer gains about 1 mile in 50 during every brevet I've ridden. So I'm guessing if it shows that I've gone 51 when th cue sheet reads 50, that probably means I'm riding slightly slower than the computer shows. I always reset at controls so it's not a huge issue but I've often wondered if other riders have similar experiences. Turn to turn distances are accurate and I'm sure there is some margin of error on cue sheets but my reading is consistently long. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?
I would be interested, though I don't live on the peninsula. I used to live over there, and I still think the riding there is as good as it gets. On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:19:24 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: Any South Bay riders interested in a South Bay get together? Oakland is not so convenient from the peninsula. On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 10:22 PM, DS davec...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Anyone interested in meeting up for a monthly Rivendell ride in the Bay Area (East Bay specifically since I live in Oakland but happy to travel up to an hour and include anyone located within spitting distance)? I feel like there's a lot of you Oakland/Berkeley members on here, some of you must be riding on weekends and fit within my style and timeframe of riding? Or is there something like this already exists (besides Manny's rides which look totally awesome but would take too much out time and energy out of my weekend)? Would be nice to meet up and ride with some like minded folk. More of a social gathering with some medium duty riding mixed in. Maybe beers mixed in at the end? One of my highlights this year was Entmoot. So much fun to meet fellow Rivendell owners from all over. I've also enjoyed getting to know the Rivendell employees, and fellow riders through the list and buying/selling things locally. Would love to organize something where we meet up more regularly, for a more casual, social ride setting. And by 'organize' i mean that in the absolute loosest sense of the word. Last thing I want to be responsible for is any sort of official group with insurance and waivers, etc. I typically go for rides out of Rockridge (up tunnel road, snake rd, or shasta in Berkeley, and figure it out from there) on Saturday or Sunday mornings around 9:00 or 9:30 for around 3-4 hours (road, trail, mixed)...usually, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter when time is tight. Other times I'll go to N. Bay or further out in the East Bay (over the peak and into Mt Diablo/Shell Ridge area) and find some routes there: road or trails. I'm not very fast. Touring pace. Home in time for lunch and a beer. I do this almost every week (rockridge departure) so could be a weekly thing if enough people are interested. I'm not big on being out more than 4-5 hours or so, 4 hours is my sweet spot. My thought is a once a month thing (like first saturday or sunday?) If enough interest I can just setup a google group and we can take it from there. Just gauging interest for now or seeing if something else is already out there. Maybe an inaugural ride starting at the Rockridge BART the weekend of Jan 3 or 10? I think I already have some travel the first few weeks of Feb so could already be a rocky start for the second month, but happy to make some amends for the greater good where I can. Possible overnighter meet ups as well? Let me know, PM or reply to thread. Disclaimer: my main road ride is actually not a Rivendell, but a Gunnar (outfitted with a front rack and sackville trunk bag of course), though I have three rivendells now for trail (hunqapillar), commute (cheviot), and single speeding (QB) that I can take out to fit in :) Unless someone wants to trade me an AHH. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Which is best: Roll-out or default tire size on cyclecomputer or measuring wheel vertically?
Mostly agree, Easiest thing is no cyclometer, Next easiest is gps only cyclometer (no calibration), Then comes the various ways of calibrating a wheel rev counting cyclometer. The standard value typically given for 700x23 is 2096mm circumference, which works out to about 26.26 inch diameter. Measuring roll out with Schwalbe 650B fatties (aka HS315) which measure about 45mm wide, I came up with a 25.84 inch diameter, which is ~1.5% less than the 26.26 value. My guestimate for the soma GRs is ~25.72 which is ~2% less than the 26.26 value. Is 1 or 2 percent worth bothering with? Thats up to each rider. Though cue sheets may be no more accurate than your own cyclometer, if you are consistently reading ~2% over the cue sheets, and you would like to agree with them, then adjusting your circumference setting to match is a reasonable thing to do. On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:31:57 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: The easiest thing is no cyclometer. The second easiest thing is to use the 700x23 default number for your 650bx42 (both have a nominal radius of 334mm) Then ride a known distance and adjust accordingly. I've used the track at the high school. 4 laps = 1 mile. I've used the painted mile stripes at the bike path. Deacon is right about load affecting things, but your tire pressure also can. A 1% error in radius means a 1% error in your distance and 3mm of extra drop because you are running your tires softer than usual is a 1% error in radius. Getting better than 1% accurate is probably not worth the effort. On brevets, a 1 mile discrepancy between your computer and the cue sheet can EASILY be partially due to the cue sheet. A very noble, very generous volunteer made that cue sheet, using his cyclometer. S/he is not perfect either. On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:08:05 AM UTC-8, ted wrote: If you want to eliminate the discrepancy, just reduce the wheel circumference setting on your cateye by 2% (1 mile in 50 is 2 in 100 is 2%). On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:15:38 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote: Good question. I set my CatEye up as 700x32 (Compass Stampede Pass). The computer gains about 1 mile in 50 during every brevet I've ridden. So I'm guessing if it shows that I've gone 51 when th cue sheet reads 50, that probably means I'm riding slightly slower than the computer shows. I always reset at controls so it's not a huge issue but I've often wondered if other riders have similar experiences. Turn to turn distances are accurate and I'm sure there is some margin of error on cue sheets but my reading is consistently long. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Drill brake bridge for fender?
Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for attaching a fender. My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where a fender bolt might go. Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the bridge? Anybody know? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?
Thanks Bill, Since its basically flat sided in the middle I figure it wouldn't be hard to carefully mark and center-punch it so a drill wouldn't tend to walk. Then just poke the right size hole with a hand drill and run the tap I use to clean bottle and rack mount threads through it. Not trivial, but not too difficult either. My SImpleOne has a threaded bridge and I like that better than the metal sliding crimping thing that comes with the longboards. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:31:28 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right. I have bikes that came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that. My Hilsen, like yours, doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge. I have not drilled and tapped it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote: Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for attaching a fender. My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where a fender bolt might go. Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the bridge? Anybody know? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?
An L bracket would be another nice approach, particularly with the Sheldon nuts. I have cut bolts to fit before, though probably not that short. I was just putting longboards over soma GR tires on my Hilsen. There is not much room and the 45 fenders are barely wider than the tires. I think getting the fender in just the right place would be easier with a threaded bridge than with the other methods. Of course if they work ok the way they are now I'm not gonna be in a big hurry to mess with it. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:50:55 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: Alternatively, Honjo L-brackets are really nice looking. I also bought a set of Sheldon nuts for the next time fenders go back on the Hilsen. Christopher is right that you'll have to run a bolt that's exactly the right length. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:47:06 PM UTC-8, ted wrote: Thanks Bill, Since its basically flat sided in the middle I figure it wouldn't be hard to carefully mark and center-punch it so a drill wouldn't tend to walk. Then just poke the right size hole with a hand drill and run the tap I use to clean bottle and rack mount threads through it. Not trivial, but not too difficult either. My SImpleOne has a threaded bridge and I like that better than the metal sliding crimping thing that comes with the longboards. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:31:28 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right. I have bikes that came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that. My Hilsen, like yours, doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge. I have not drilled and tapped it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either. On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote: Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for attaching a fender. My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where a fender bolt might go. Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the bridge? Anybody know? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?
Thanks Takashi, that looks kinda neat. I gather it replaces the spacer that normally goes on the brake bolt on the back side of the bridge. Do you know how thick it is? I suspect the only way to get one would be special order through a LBS. On Friday, December 19, 2014 7:58:01 PM UTC-8, Takashi wrote: Honjo makes this small thing that lets you mount rear fender on a bike without threaded rear brake bridge: http://www.euroasiaimports.com/productcart/pc/Honjo-Fender-Attatchment-Pivot-for-Narrow-Space-2291p23812.htm Takashi 2014年12月20日土曜日 8時21分31秒 UTC+9 ted: Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for attaching a fender. My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where a fender bolt might go. Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the bridge? Anybody know? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Alternate mounting for Nitto Mark's Rack?
I used a similar approach to mount a Mark's rack on my Bombadil, but rather than put an s bend in the short struts I just used a single kink in a short straight strut that made them about horizontal. It worked fine, but with cantilever brakes I found I preferred the mini rack. Do any of RBW's frames that have those threads in the top of the fork crown use center/side pull brakes? On Sunday, December 7, 2014 1:26:06 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote: Thanks, yes, there's a write up on how to do it: http://oceanaircycles.com/2013/10/28/mounting-marks-rack-on-a-rambler/ Simple and clean! - Andrew On Sunday, December 7, 2014 1:19:04 PM UTC-8, justin...@gmail.com wrote: Rob at Ocean Air Cycles sells this set up with everything you need. -Justin -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Winter means looking for problems that might not exist and solving them. Hence, Stem Shifters!
That photo should also remind us that the euro pro road race crowd didn't arrive at what they are using now without trying a lot of different things. Those Vitus bikes were widely reputed to be very flexible, they must plane. Didn't Jan say his Alan cross bike does. Lots of experimentation with suspension for cobbles back then. I don't think any of it stuck. Which of course is not to suggest that we should ride what they do. On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 8:26:00 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: You're absolutely right, Scott. There were a bunch of things mixing around at once during that era. Very good eye. You got more out of it beyond the point I initially intended to deliver, but you are totally right. It's all there. Bill On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 8:09:29 AM UTC-8, Skenry wrote: That actually is a GREAT picture Bill. Thanks for posting, it has been saved. Sean Kelly on that Vitus 979 with downtube shifters and toe clips. Then moving back we have the barcons, then STI levers and, on the far left, Greg Lemond with Scott Drop-in bars and a converted RockShox Mag 21 fork. Not to mention a hard shell helmet, a cap, bare headed and a hairnet. All in the same picture. That photo is an essay on the last 30 years in pro cycling! Scott On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 10:55 AM, Bill Lindsay tape...@gmail.com wrote: OK, that makes sense. Just like some riders would use one or two barcons on their criterium bike in the 1980s if they felt that reaching for DT shifters would make them too wobbly. Just like a few of the pros would run barcons just for Paris Roubaix or similar. Just like most cyclocross racers would run barcons before brifters came about. I'll keep that in mind. Here's Sean Kelly not needing barcons but the racer behind him running them: http://images.cyclingtips.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/CORVOS_0684-025.jpg On a related note, I found it kind of cute how easily I can shift from the tops with my thumbs, not letting go of the bars at all. That was just around the block. When you, Steve, say that stem shifters are unacceptable for these situations, are you saying that because it's self-evident to you, or because you actually tried it? Just curious. If this experiment doesn't work out for me the barcons will go right back on the Hillborne. Here's one at the top of the list: You are going fast and the road is rough: alligatored, cracked, patches upon patches with small holes in between. (I don't know if you have stuff like that where you ride, but where I ride in the rural areas of Southern Maryland, there's lots and lots of it.) It's somewhat like riding on rumble strips only with the occasional bigger impact. On surfaces like that, I wouldn't venture to remove one hand from the bars and move it to the center line of the bike to shift, but with bar end shifters (and brifters, of course) you can hold on to the bar and maintain stability while shifting with your fingers or your palm. But basically, in any situation where the bike could be jostled, either from road surface roughness or from irregular, gusting side winds it would be ill-advised and sometimes downright dangerous to get yourself into the position required to operate a stem shifter. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Oregon Outback and water
I am lucky enough that pretty much nothing to do with my cycling is driven by need. I am way past needs and well into preferences. No doubt I could ride for 5+ hours without water without dying, but I rather think I would rather not. Ride without water that is. On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 7:17:55 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: Jan's point is excellent, and I'll say that most of us, regardless of conditions, could likely bike for five or more hours if need be without water. I've run in 100˚F+ Utah desert for over eight hours at high summer with 44 oz of water. I have biked 5+ hours being completely out of water. Yes, we need water to live, but not in the amounts we've come to believe. See Noikes' Waterlogged. With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Oregon Outback and water
Jan, do most of the riders you know consume water at a similar rate? On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 6:07:35 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote: The 40 miles per bottle were on soft gravel in daytime, which resulted in more work per mile than the stretch from Fort Rock to Prineville, most of which is on harder gravel or even pavement. Plus, I did half of that stretch at night, with cooler temperatures. If I was concerned, I'd put a disposable water bottle or two in my jersey pockets, thus increasing my capacity by 40%. It's important to be prepared, but not be scared off. In the end, you just have to go out and do it! If you have to ride 20 miles without water, it'll probably be fine. Jan Heine Editor Bicycle Quarterly www.bikequarterly.com Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ On Monday, November 24, 2014 7:28:38 PM UTC-8, ted wrote: Thanks for weighing in with your experience Jan. Sounds like you got 40 miles per bottle, so with 3 bottles you had at least 50% margin for an 80 mile gap between water. No worries, pretty simple. I presume warmer sunnier conditions would reduce your miles per bottle, and would eat into that margin. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Oregon Outback and water
Thanks for weighing in with your experience Jan. Sounds like you got 40 miles per bottle, so with 3 bottles you had at least 50% margin for an 80 mile gap between water. No worries, pretty simple. I presume warmer sunnier conditions would reduce your miles per bottle, and would eat into that margin. On Monday, November 24, 2014 8:49:14 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote: I think the longest stretch without water was about 40 miles, maybe a bit more during the night. I think the organizers carried a lot of water because they camped in places with no water. If you want to cook dinner, you'll need some extra water. I carried three large cycling water bottles. That meant that I could skip the first two places where I could have got water on or near the route. (It was an overcast day, so I didn't sweat a lot.) I refilled my bottles for the first time at mile 120. I think the ride is doable for most riders with just three bottles, even if you go slower and sweat more. You should use every opportunity to top off in some parts of the course, but it's never so remote that you'll die if you are stranded. Cars use those roads (or the one's paralleling the trail), even if infrequently. Jan Heine Editor Bicycle Quarterly www.bikequarterly.com Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
Deacon and Anne, thanks for the info. Do you put the 100oz hydro pack/blader in a bike mounted bag or are you wearing those on your back? Anne, sounds like you plan to go with well under 2gal of water storage. Have I got that right? I get that somebody stoping to sleep/camp needs a bunch of gear that a nonstop rider doesn't, but the 2gal that site mentions seems like a whole lot more than I thought folks usually carry on a day (or two) ride. Are the water needs for the fast movers that much less than for those going at a more leisurely pace? thnks Ted On Saturday, November 22, 2014 10:34:15 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: Because I'm taking the slow route, I'm going to carry way more stuff than Jan. I'll have tent sleeping bag pad wool t shirt and lycra shorts for riding wool jersey and wool legwarmers for riding when it's cold off-bike clothes (I can't sit around in wet cycling clothing; I get immediately chilled) second pair of shorts (I know you guys can wear the same shorts two days in a row, but that does not work for me at all) wool hat puffy jacket rain clothes little cookset of Trangia burner, titanium pot, Westwind pot stand, cup, spork food Ursack food bag to protect food from marauders 100 oz hydration pack couple of 1 liter bladders for no-water section water filter food tools, spare tubes soap first aid kit bandannas, 1001 uses meds toiletries probably my Tilley hat with a brim, for sun probably some Crocs The hydration pack plus the two bladders is about 5 liters. I might also in the no-water section carry more water, not sure. I'm going to have to camp dry one night. On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:55 AM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: I am intrigued by the route but hough the trip sounds very appealing, it also sounds very daunting. For example this from http://velodirt.com/the-oregon-outback/: ... At the longest no-water section we each carried 2+ gallons of water. ... Yet Jan Heine did it on a rando bike, and several riders did it in about a day and a half. In another thread several posters say they are planing to do the ride next season. If some of them would comment on how much stuff they plan to carry and how they deal with water I would appreciate it. I am not sure how I would go about hauling 2+ gallons on my bike. Grocery panniers and a milk jug on either side? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] The real reason to like Schwalbe superlight tubes
They are so tiny. I mean they pack down really small. I fit two in my small flat fix pouch where only one regular tube fits. I do however wonder how well they work once you put a patch on one. The patch doesn't stretch like the tube does. I makes an uneven hard spot. Will that make a patched superlight tube prone to tear? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
In the main triangle along with the bottle cages? Guess it pays to ride a big frame. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:07:56 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: I strap the 100oz bladder to the frame. With abandon, Patrick On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:00:11 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: Deacon and Anne, thanks for the info. Do you put the 100oz hydro pack/blader in a bike mounted bag or are you wearing those on your back? Anne, sounds like you plan to go with well under 2gal of water storage. Have I got that right? I get that somebody stoping to sleep/camp needs a bunch of gear that a nonstop rider doesn't, but the 2gal that site mentions seems like a whole lot more than I thought folks usually carry on a day (or two) ride. Are the water needs for the fast movers that much less than for those going at a more leisurely pace? thnks Ted On Saturday, November 22, 2014 10:34:15 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: Because I'm taking the slow route, I'm going to carry way more stuff than Jan. I'll have tent sleeping bag pad wool t shirt and lycra shorts for riding wool jersey and wool legwarmers for riding when it's cold off-bike clothes (I can't sit around in wet cycling clothing; I get immediately chilled) second pair of shorts (I know you guys can wear the same shorts two days in a row, but that does not work for me at all) wool hat puffy jacket rain clothes little cookset of Trangia burner, titanium pot, Westwind pot stand, cup, spork food Ursack food bag to protect food from marauders 100 oz hydration pack couple of 1 liter bladders for no-water section water filter food tools, spare tubes soap first aid kit bandannas, 1001 uses meds toiletries probably my Tilley hat with a brim, for sun probably some Crocs The hydration pack plus the two bladders is about 5 liters. I might also in the no-water section carry more water, not sure. I'm going to have to camp dry one night. On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:55 AM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote: I am intrigued by the route but hough the trip sounds very appealing, it also sounds very daunting. For example this from http://velodirt.com/the-oregon-outback/: ... At the longest no-water section we each carried 2+ gallons of water. ... Yet Jan Heine did it on a rando bike, and several riders did it in about a day and a half. In another thread several posters say they are planing to do the ride next season. If some of them would comment on how much stuff they plan to carry and how they deal with water I would appreciate it. I am not sure how I would go about hauling 2+ gallons on my bike. Grocery panniers and a milk jug on either side? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
I think there are 3.785 liters in a gallon or about 7.5 liters for 2 gallons. Your 5 liters is abt 1 and 1/3 gallons. With 3 28oz bottles like Deacon carries thats another ~2/3 of a gallon. So yea I guess that puts you at ~2gal for the longer dry stretches. Thanks for setting me straight. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:15:23 PM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: I wear a 100 oz hydration pack. With two 1-liter bags, that's 5 liters. And I'll probably carry two or three water bottles in the really dry sections. I'm going to be around 2 gallons, I guess. Not sure really. On Sun, Nov 23, 2014 at 6:00 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: Deacon and Anne, thanks for the info. Do you put the 100oz hydro pack/blader in a bike mounted bag or are you wearing those on your back? Anne, sounds like you plan to go with well under 2gal of water storage. Have I got that right? I get that somebody stoping to sleep/camp needs a bunch of gear that a nonstop rider doesn't, but the 2gal that site mentions seems like a whole lot more than I thought folks usually carry on a day (or two) ride. Are the water needs for the fast movers that much less than for those going at a more leisurely pace? thnks Ted On Saturday, November 22, 2014 10:34:15 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: Because I'm taking the slow route, I'm going to carry way more stuff than Jan. I'll have tent sleeping bag pad wool t shirt and lycra shorts for riding wool jersey and wool legwarmers for riding when it's cold off-bike clothes (I can't sit around in wet cycling clothing; I get immediately chilled) second pair of shorts (I know you guys can wear the same shorts two days in a row, but that does not work for me at all) wool hat puffy jacket rain clothes little cookset of Trangia burner, titanium pot, Westwind pot stand, cup, spork food Ursack food bag to protect food from marauders 100 oz hydration pack couple of 1 liter bladders for no-water section water filter food tools, spare tubes soap first aid kit bandannas, 1001 uses meds toiletries probably my Tilley hat with a brim, for sun probably some Crocs The hydration pack plus the two bladders is about 5 liters. I might also in the no-water section carry more water, not sure. I'm going to have to camp dry one night. On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:55 AM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote: I am intrigued by the route but hough the trip sounds very appealing, it also sounds very daunting. For example this from http://velodirt.com/the-oregon-outback/: ... At the longest no-water section we each carried 2+ gallons of water. ... Yet Jan Heine did it on a rando bike, and several riders did it in about a day and a half. In another thread several posters say they are planing to do the ride next season. If some of them would comment on how much stuff they plan to carry and how they deal with water I would appreciate it. I am not sure how I would go about hauling 2+ gallons on my bike. Grocery panniers and a milk jug on either side? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
I think this http://epicureancyclist.com/review-msr-dromedary-and-s-biners/ looks fairly nice. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:26:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: I don't remember. Wherever it works. Test before hand. Irish straps are beautiful! With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
Ok. Seems like the usual locations for bottle cages on the down and seat tubes do that, but once those spaces are taken finding someplace for another say gallon and a half on a small or medium size bike presents some challenges. I suppose you can put containers in the bottom of a pannier but thats not very convenient for access. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:39:09 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: Water is the heaviest item by volume you will carry. It pays to get it as low as practicable. With abandon, Patrick On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:36:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: I think this http://epicureancyclist.com/review-msr-dromedary-and-s-biners/ looks fairly nice. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:26:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: I don't remember. Wherever it works. Test before hand. Irish straps are beautiful! With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Oregon Outback and water
Sounds reasonable and if it works well for you thats great. I usually prefer not to have a pack on if I am riding for a long time. I would rather have what I need attached to the bike somehow. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 8:06:26 PM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote: Why? Why should you get it low? I would have thought keeping it on your back, above the suspension (your knees) would be better. On Sun, Nov 23, 2014 at 6:39 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com javascript: wrote: Water is the heaviest item by volume you will carry. It pays to get it as low as practicable. With abandon, Patrick On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:36:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: I think this http://epicureancyclist.com/review-msr-dromedary-and-s-biners/ looks fairly nice. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:26:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: I don't remember. Wherever it works. Test before hand. Irish straps are beautiful! With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] The real reason to like Schwalbe superlight tubes
http://www.compasscycle.com/tires_tubes_650.html Nice to hear about the patching. On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:05:40 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 11/23/2014 09:13 PM, ted wrote: They are so tiny. I mean they pack down really small. I fit two in my small flat fix pouch where only one regular tube fits. I do however wonder how well they work once you put a patch on one. The patch doesn't stretch like the tube does. I makes an uneven hard spot. Will that make a patched superlight tube prone to tear? I've never seen a Schwalbe Superlight tube, but I have been using their Ultralight tubes for over five years now and have patched them several times with no problems. You do have to be more careful with the sandpaper, of course, since the tube is thinner. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Oregon Outback and water
I am intrigued by the route but hough the trip sounds very appealing, it also sounds very daunting. For example this from http://velodirt.com/the-oregon-outback/: ... At the longest no-water section we each carried 2+ gallons of water. ... Yet Jan Heine did it on a rando bike, and several riders did it in about a day and a half. In another thread several posters say they are planing to do the ride next season. If some of them would comment on how much stuff they plan to carry and how they deal with water I would appreciate it. I am not sure how I would go about hauling 2+ gallons on my bike. Grocery panniers and a milk jug on either side? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Joe Appaloosa sneak peek
Check the blug, I think that's the Clem. Also seen in the two fish bottle cage? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Neat New Stuff (BLUG Holiday Mailer PDF)
Got a paper coppy in the mail today. Very nice. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Wheel Stabilizer or no?
If it's mostly flop when parked on a kickstand that's the trouble, perhaps a twin leg stand would help. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] this looks right.
Front derailer? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] SFR El Paseito Mixto Populaire 103k
Anybody planing on riding this this Sat? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Splinting a carbon frame
Pardon, but what is a greenstick fracture? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Splinting a carbon frame
Thanks -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: I love 42s
Stonehog, just to clarify, are you saying you feel a difference between 38 and 42 650b tires, or are you comparing 38 700c tires to 42 650b? Was the comparison done with a single bike? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: I love 42s
Like you I think this is what Stonehog meant. If it is, then his issue is not that he wants fatter tires than will fit on his 700c Hilsen. It is that he prefers 650b over 700c for wide tires. So it's not that 42 is so much nicer than 38, its that 650b is much nicer than 700c (for him of course, Im not trying to make any sort of absolute global whats better than what sort of claim re wheel size). On Thursday, October 9, 2014 8:58:20 AM UTC-7, EGNolan wrote: He was comparing his 700c bike w/ 38's to his 650b bike w/ 42's as many have suggested he just try 38 Compass tires (which he states he already did). On Thursday, October 9, 2014 9:36:52 AM UTC-4, ted wrote: Stonehog, just to clarify, are you saying you feel a difference between 38 and 42 650b tires, or are you comparing 38 700c tires to 42 650b? Was the comparison done with a single bike? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] I love 42s
You can order 58cm 650b AHHs from RBW new. I think the wait time is shorter than usual right now. I also think a 58 was posted on the list recently. I suspect a 60 Saluki is going to be a hard to get item. Since Legolass can still be ordered and single top tube Bombadils have been made, perhaps RBW would do a 60cm 650b AHH as a special order for a minimal up charge ( I.e. Not the full cost for a custom bike). Looking at your photo, I suspect you could get the fit you want with the 58 size. Do you have 1cm of stem above the limit line hiding in your head tube? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: SONdelux or Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub?
I have mounted a light on a Paul Gino mount on the side of a nitto mini front rack. I did not care for the wheel shadow and off centre beam, so I moved the light to front center. I expect many others would have found the side mount fine. YMMV -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Soon to arrive new to me and first Riv. Bombadil
I think the bg rr will be great. The quasi motos work very well on the Bombadil. Congrats on the new to you bike. I bet you are going to love it. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: I love 42s
By way of counterpoint, Based on my recent experience going from 32s to 40+ on my AHH, I doubt I would feel much of a difference between 38 and 42. I'm not trying to say anybody who feels they have to have 42s is wrong, but for me I doubt it warrants he fuss. I expect some other folks might find the same if they did the experiment themselves. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Fred Matheny roadbikerider.com Compass tire review...on a Roadeo!
Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable in goathead country without sealant? I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something under the tread would suffice. e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-city-tyre-2013/ On Thursday, September 25, 2014 3:03:34 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 09/25/2014 05:53 PM, Patrick Moore wrote: He runs his pressures high, at 150 lb: 25s at 100, 32s at 80. I run my 23s at sub 90/100 and my 30s at 60/70, and I'm 170-175. But that aside, good review. Wish he'd also reviewed the Roadeo. Note that if the Stampedes are anywhere as nearly thin as the old Parigi Roubaix, they *will not be useable *in goathead country It's my understanding that all the Compass Pass tires have the same tread thickness. I have the 28mm version, and the tread is *much* thicker than Parigi Roubaix. You feel those and there's no detectable difference in thickness between the tread area and the sidewall area. Close your eyes and you'd never know where the tread begins and the sidewall ends. That said, is there *any* pneumatic tire, even the thickest, most heavily armored, that would be usable in goathead country without sealant? Doesn't that give you cowardly bowel syndrome just looking at it? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Fred Matheny roadbikerider.com Compass tire review...on a Roadeo!
Yes it is hard to tell scale from the photo you used (btw where/how did you get it). But the spines on goatheads are nothing like 2cm long. http://www.cottoncrc.org.au/industry/Publications/Weeds/Weed_IdentificationTools/Weeds_by_common_names/Cathead On Thursday, September 25, 2014 6:50:24 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 09/25/2014 09:00 PM, ted wrote: Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable in goathead country without sealant? I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something under the tread would suffice. e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-city-tyre-2013/ Hard to tell the scale, but I'm guessing those thorns are almost 2 cm long. I don't think even truck tire tread is that thick. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 3:03:34 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 09/25/2014 05:53 PM, Patrick Moore wrote: He runs his pressures high, at 150 lb: 25s at 100, 32s at 80. I run my 23s at sub 90/100 and my 30s at 60/70, and I'm 170-175. But that aside, good review. Wish he'd also reviewed the Roadeo. Note that if the Stampedes are anywhere as nearly thin as the old Parigi Roubaix, they *will not be useable *in goathead country It's my understanding that all the Compass Pass tires have the same tread thickness. I have the 28mm version, and the tread is *much* thicker than Parigi Roubaix. You feel those and there's no detectable difference in thickness between the tread area and the sidewall area. Close your eyes and you'd never know where the tread begins and the sidewall ends. That said, is there *any* pneumatic tire, even the thickest, most heavily armored, that would be usable in goathead country without sealant? Doesn't that give you cowardly bowel syndrome just looking at it? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Fred Matheny roadbikerider.com Compass tire review...on a Roadeo!
I think goat head thorns are in the 3 to 8mm range. The marathon smartguard blue layer is 5mm add some tread thickness and casing and I think they have a chance against even goatheads. Whether or not you want to ride tires like that is a whole different question. Some folks don't seem to mind the things others abhor about them. You pays your money and you takes your chances. The Jobst solution seems to be something like don't ride through where the vines grow, and get changes made that discourage their growth. Goat heads do not have feet of their own and do not travel far from the plant unless someone travels through their midst. I think if you take a close look at these seed pods, you'll see they are made of highly durable strong yet pliable wood. Therefore, getting one or two of them is a rarity and if you ride over a plant you will pick up at least a dozen thorns. If your tire-saver gets even half of them you haven't gained anything. On the other hand I have seen people sitting at the roadside pulling them out of their tires and discarding them onto the street. Thanks! see http://yarchive.net/bike/puncture_vine.html for more On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:25:13 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: Those might resist goatheads -- not certain from the photo -- but they look as if they would be death to ride. Several of the local remedies: best: Stan's, tubeless for low pressure tires. Worse: Thick tire liners; the local roadies, pre-Stan's, would cut the bead of a used racing tire and use it as a liner. Worst: heavy thorn proof tubes with a half gallon of Slime inside heavy duty tires with an added liner. The riding message those send is take up curling. On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:00 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable in goathead country without sealant? I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something under the tread would suffice. e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-city-tyre-2013/ -- Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews. By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching. Other professional writing services. http://www.resumespecialties.com/ www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Patrick Moore Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Vereinigte Staaten * * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.* * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there, because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where in your time and your body can they be?* * Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried. Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of you can find it?” -- *Flannery O'Connor,* Wise Blood * -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot
I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM, Dennis Hogan hog...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Hi Peter I also have this light and love it (I still have a dyno powered tail light as well). I would offer the caution that I have had it fall off its mounting, be it a leather or fabric loop, several times. Even if I have cinched it down as tight as possible with the mount. I have taken to using a zip tie to secure it. It is not cheap and I would hate to lose such an investment. Dennis in PDX On Thursday, September 25, 2014 3:22:10 PM UTC-7, Father of Sam wrote: David, I have an earlier version of this: http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/vis-180/vis- 180-brown-shugga It is fantastic. It can either be 'on' (steady on, no flash), or 'pulse' which does not flash, but rather 'glows' on and off. It comes with the standard seat post/tube strap-mount, and has an easy push-button-adjustment to affect its angle. I've pondered inverting it and mounting it 'hack-style' to my rear fender, but have yet to make that a reality. I don't think it would be too difficult though, and pass this idea to someone who might be a little more pro-active. -Peter (geez, I sure do lurk alot) On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:58:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Any feedback on these: http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/ lt007.htm or these: http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works- Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2 How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? Battery life real good on them? Any other options I am overlooking? So many questions... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot
I only know it from reading the online photographer blog (used to have a sidebar add for RBW and the author consulted G on some bike stuff btw). The term came up in connection with Leica if I recall correctly. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:05:48 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Had to look that one up! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM, Dennis Hogan hog...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Peter I also have this light and love it (I still have a dyno powered tail light as well). I would offer the caution that I have had it fall off its mounting, be it a leather or fabric loop, several times. Even if I have cinched it down as tight as possible with the mount. I have taken to using a zip tie to secure it. It is not cheap and I would hate to lose such an investment. Dennis in PDX On Thursday, September 25, 2014 3:22:10 PM UTC-7, Father of Sam wrote: David, I have an earlier version of this: http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/vis-180/vis- 180-brown-shugga It is fantastic. It can either be 'on' (steady on, no flash), or 'pulse' which does not flash, but rather 'glows' on and off. It comes with the standard seat post/tube strap-mount, and has an easy push-button-adjustment to affect its angle. I've pondered inverting it and mounting it 'hack-style' to my rear fender, but have yet to make that a reality. I don't think it would be too difficult though, and pass this idea to someone who might be a little more pro-active. -Peter (geez, I sure do lurk alot) On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:58:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Any feedback on these: http://www.rivbike.com/ Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or these: http://www.amazon.com/P ortland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2 How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? Battery life real good on them? Any other options I am overlooking? So many questions... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot
ooops On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:19:09 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: S, don't give it away! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:15 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: I only know it from reading the online photographer blog (used to have a sidebar add for RBW and the author consulted G on some bike stuff btw). The term came up in connection with Leica if I recall correctly. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:05:48 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Had to look that one up! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote: I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going. On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM, Dennis Hogan hog...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Peter I also have this light and love it (I still have a dyno powered tail light as well). I would offer the caution that I have had it fall off its mounting, be it a leather or fabric loop, several times. Even if I have cinched it down as tight as possible with the mount. I have taken to using a zip tie to secure it. It is not cheap and I would hate to lose such an investment. Dennis in PDX On Thursday, September 25, 2014 3:22:10 PM UTC-7, Father of Sam wrote: David, I have an earlier version of this: http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/vis-180/vis- 180-brown-shugga It is fantastic. It can either be 'on' (steady on, no flash), or 'pulse' which does not flash, but rather 'glows' on and off. It comes with the standard seat post/tube strap-mount, and has an easy push-button-adjustment to affect its angle. I've pondered inverting it and mounting it 'hack-style' to my rear fender, but have yet to make that a reality. I don't think it would be too difficult though, and pass this idea to someone who might be a little more pro-active. -Peter (geez, I sure do lurk alot) On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:58:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: Any feedback on these: http://www.rivbike.com/ Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or these: http://www.amazon.com/ Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2 How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady, not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)? Battery life real good on them? Any other options I am overlooking? So many questions... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation
I have an Edelux 2 (RBW sells this one too) and a battery powered Ixon IQ. I think PW says the beam from the newer Eyc is similar to that of the Ixon IQ but with the dim spot right in front of the wheel filled in. When I got my Ixon IQ I liked it much better than any light I had used before it, so I doubt you would be disappointed with the Eyc. The beam from the Edelux is broader than my Ixon and fills in close to the bike. The Edelux 2 is great too, but I don't vastly prefer its beam over the one from the Ixon. Perhaps I'm just not that discerning, others may have a different viewpoint. The Edelux also has a glass front piece and an aluminum housing so it feels like a higher quality item than the plastic lights. You should also consider the senso feature (or lack thereof) on specific models you are considering. You may like having the light come on automatically if it starts getting dark towards the end of a ride, or have it go off when it gets light after starting out before dawn. Or you may prefer to make your own decisions about on or off. Oh and while you are at it, the linetec dyno tail light is pretty neat too. On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:09:21 PM UTC-7, DS wrote: Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B that Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the Eyc is cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is starting to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out in the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently attached and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!
and whats the confidence interval ... On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: But that's only true 75% of the time... :) On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com javascript: wrote: Johan- I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several months. It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set. I got it (from a list member) with standard extractor and pedal threading. However, these old French cranks have very little distance between the big ring and the crank arm (that's how they have such low Q factor), which makes them difficult to shift properly. I couldn't use any modern FD with a sculpted outer plate or it would hit the crank arm. I had decent luck with a vintage Suntour Cyclone double FD, shifted friction with Silver levers. But with that setup it was still very reluctant to shift from the small cog to the middle without going to the big ring first. A triple FD would have a sculpted inner plate to lift the chain better than the double FD, but I couldn't find any triple FDs, vintage or otherwise, that don't also have a scuplted outer plate. I recently swapped my Riv to drop bars and index shifting (8 speed Campy Ergos) and I couldn't get any FD to work with that Stronglight crank. I ended up swapping the Campy Racing Triple crank back on, which shifts perfectly with the IRD Alpina FD. I'm just pointing out that low-Q cranks with little space between the big ring and the crank arm do have some complications. Whether those complications become drawbacks depends on your priorities. :) With drops and Ergo shifters, my Riv is at least 17% faster. And 47% of all statistics are fictional. :) On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com wrote: If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it as a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor. It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with such a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider ring-crank arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide cage front shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or four. If you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and run it as a double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations and a Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. This winter I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I finally have access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can modify and take parts from. Johan Larsson, Sweden -- -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation
The Edelux lights use optics from BM with the II version having optics like the new Cyo lights and the original (not II) being like the previous version of the Cyo (ie IQ not IQ2). Since the reflectors and LEDs are the same, the beams are too. Choosing between the two brands is about price and features besides the primary beam. Want a metal housing and a glass front lens, buy the Edelux. Want daytime running lights, buy BM. Want to save money, buy BM. Want a switch for on/senso/off buy the Edelux. . On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 11:03:11 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote: I've used the Edeluxe and the Cyo--all of my dyno-powered bikes now have various flavors of the Cyo. I haven't used the Edeluxe II, but I found the beam pattern on the Cyo lights to be better than the original Edeluxe ... at a lower cost. I'm currently using one of the newer Cyo lights on my Blériot. I got the slightly upgraded model that has a daytime running light and a sensor-controlled full headlight. I like the light, and my only complaint is that there's no way during the daytime to force the full headlight to come on. During the day, it's either the daytime light or nothing. If I could redesign the light, I would eliminate the sensor function and have three settings: Off/Daytime/Full --Eric N www.CampyOnly.com CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy On Sep 24, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II. I have one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of this list and I love, love, love it. It's 80lux and has the same optics as the Luxos and Edluxe II lights. I highly recommend this light any chance I get due to the value for the $. I think it's just as good as the Edluxe II. On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Jayme Frye jayme...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: +1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously. Cheers Jayme On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote: Getting my first dyno hub and light. Looking for advice on a light to go with. Peter White's page is super helpful, but looking to get some feedback from some real world usage as well. Considering the Eyc and the Luxos B that Rivendell sell. Anyone have these that can comment? My thought is the Eyc is cheaper, and I really don't ride at night very often. But as it is starting to get dark earlier, I definitely want the option to take the bike out in the evening and like the idea of a dyno light that is permanently attached and no batteries. Type of night riding will be a combination of city streets, and occasional rides through more dimly lit neighborhoods and occasional dark country roads (If you're in the bay area, think oakland hills/montclair/piedmont). No rando rides or night time trail riding. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: LED Fender Lights: Spanninga vs. PDW Fenderbot
I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's fender. I also have a PDW Radbot 1k and a dyno BM TopLight Line. The Radbot 1K is very bright on axis, but is a single small spot of brightness. The Pixio is fairly bright though not as bright as the Radbot, and also seems to be pretty much a dot when viewed from any distance. I like the way the linetec creates a larger illuminated area. I think the reflector portion of the Radbot is larger than the one on the Pixio, and the TopLight's is even larger. If you have a place to mount it, you might consider the battery version of the TopLight (http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/lt009.htm) On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:44:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring across the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so not worried about that, just the brightness. Thanks! Cheers, David it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro marchan...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo. It is my sole active illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's reflector, and an additional reflector on the rear rack. The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some headlights I've used, but more distributed. It's best on dark roads, as others have observed. But that's true for any powered light. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice
So of course you should do as you like and go threadless ever and always. I see absolutely no reason why you shouldn't. But some of the rest of us find that the bars we want work with quill stems, and find the range of quill stems available perfectly adequate. Though threadless has dominated the market for what 15 years I don't think the last 5 or 10 have seen dramatic reductions in the availability of quill stems etc. I believe your implied prediction of their imminent demise is premature, and see no need to shun them for fear of being locked into something unobtainable. Folks explaining how you can adjust bar height on threadless setups, and how its really easy, remind me of when I told people that gluing tubulars was simple. Easy is in the eye of the doer, and (aside from the advantages of removable face plates) I can't believe dealing with threadless is as easy as the quill system is. I think spacers above the stem on a threadless setup looks bad. You say I can buy a new fork if I want to raise my bars an inch? Yea, well you go ahead with that plan but I don't think I will. On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:40:43 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: Of course, if someone is devoted to quill stems, then I would expect that person to be devoted to traditional handlebar designs, to the exclusion of newer designs. I personally think the Jones Loop bar is the best all-around bar for my riding. I can't do that with a quill stem. There are a lot more 31.8 bars than there are 26.0 bars nowadays. I prefer to have the option rather than be locked in to a standard that appears to be dying, or at least dwindling. On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:36:36 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a Nitto quill stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, which a lot of people do (and regret), then there shouldn't be an issue for many years. I would strongly suggest NOT threading a threadless fork. It seems very unsafe to me On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:22:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 09/24/2014 01:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam, but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile. All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test miles on a Sam. There isn't anything magical about the intrinsic ride quality of the Sam compared to the two Surly models I mentioned, but it does have an extra measure of cosmetic flair, which may or may not be worth the extra cost and wait, depending on your point of view. Despite the lower price of the Surly, I don't believe there's any sacrifice of quality, which is sometimes implied in any Surly vs Riv discussion. Surly's quality control is the best of any company I've dealt with - they almost never make mistakes. Here are a few technical details to consider. The Riv uses a 1 quill stem, which has some advantage for quickly raising and lowering the bar, but the quill stems currently available don't have a 31.8 clamp option. Since 25.4/26.0 handlebars are getting fewer everyday, and 31.8 is effectively standard now, you'll be opting out of some great handlebar options with a standard quill stem (there are workarounds to solve this problem, but it's better to not have the problem in the first place, IMO). The Surly frames come with a threadless steerer, which makes switching to different bars much easier/cheaper. In general, threaded steerers and quill stems are regarded as outdated in the bicycle industry, and few manufacturers are supporting that design anymore. That makes the Surly somewhat more future-proof in regard to headsets, stems, and handlebars. I see the quill stems as a fairly major inconvenience, but, of course, the quill stems have an aesthetic effect that some people prefer, and I can't argue that. A second consideration is how you plan to accessorize the bike. Rivs tend to have rack braze-ons designed around the Nitto racks that they sell, while Surly frames have braze-ons designed around more universal rack designs. The rack thing shouldn't be a deal-breaker, because many racks will fit on the back of a Riv, but it does get difficult if you want, say, a Tubus low-rider rack on the fork of a Riv. In my personal experience, the biggest issue regarding a lifetime bicycle is the ability to adjust your position to physiological changes that occur with time. Most significant of these, certainly for me and probably for most, has been the need to raise the handlebar position. In my 30s, I had a 5 drop. In my
Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!
Many factors come into play. At the moment I have a sugino crankset from RBW with 24/33/43 rings on it mounted on my Bombadil with a 107mm cartridge bb. Its close but despite the curves everything clears the chainstay. Mind you a 26 small ring would not clear with that bb, so ... On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 5:04:10 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote: I thought since some of the Rivendell models have bowed chainstays you could only have so low of a q factor. Or I might be totally wrong too. On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, Johan Larsson seven@gmail.com javascript: wrote: If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it as a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor. It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with such a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider ring-crank arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide cage front shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or four. If you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and run it as a double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations and a Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. This winter I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I finally have access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can modify and take parts from. Johan Larsson, Sweden -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Blug post
Are external bearing cranks supposed to be less expensive to make? Why is that? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] barend shifters on a bike with top tube derailer cables
Hey Tim, Thanks for explaining. Ted On Thursday, September 18, 2014 6:18:30 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote: Crossing the right/rear over to the left side makes the cable housing loop around the outside of the head tube, minimizing rub on the paint. It makes for a longer housing but with a wider radius curve. You can usually cross the cable back over pretty easily, either on the downtube for traditional shift mount points, or behind the seat cluster for a bike with top tube routing. I recently built up a gravel bike for my girlfriend out of a late 90s Univega Alpina 504 (DB CroMo frame, Deore LX group, top tube cable routing). I ran bar-end shifters on Nitto RM-14 dirt drops, and crossed the housing to minimize rub. The right/rear goes to the left side of the top tube, runs all the way on the left side, and crosses over behind.below the seat tube cluster, and continues down the right seat stay to the rear derailer. The left/front crosses over to the right side of the top tube, and transitions from the right side to the top-center for the top-pull derailer. Sorry, no pics yet. No problem with that top pull FD, a late 90s Deore LX. Tim On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 9:55 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: I have ben experimenting with running shift cables on my top tube. Seems to me the right / rear shifter should go on the right side of the top tube so it runs onto the right seat stay and down to the rd cleanly. Why do you chose to take the right shifter cable to the left side of the top tube? While on the topic of routing shift cable up top, any opinions on top pull fd's? On Wednesday, September 17, 2014 7:44:53 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote: I've had two mountain bikes with derailleur cables running over the top tube. I like it. My Singular with full derailleur housing down the down tube bugged me so much I made the bike a singlespeed. I second the idea of asking for normal cable stops. Right shifter cable crosses the head tube, and goes onto the left side of the top tube. Philip www.biketinker.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: I just can't say NO! (to Quickbeams)
I asked about that a bit once. I believe the potential for surface rust under powdercoat is always there, its just that with pigment you don't see it. On Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:26:37 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote: If one is good, two must be great! Inaugural ride this morning taking the kids to school. Success all the way around! Anecdotal evidence says the clear coats are slightly hydrophilic and lead to some surface rust underneath them. Or maybe that happens under every powdercoating and you just don't normally see it!!! On Thursday, September 18, 2014 10:00:32 AM UTC-7, Pondero wrote: Excellent, and congrats on the dual QB status! For the record, I also have long craved a clear powder coat Riv. I expect I'll refinish my QB, Hilsen, or both one day. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] barend shifters on a bike with top tube derailer cables
I have ben experimenting with running shift cables on my top tube. Seems to me the right / rear shifter should go on the right side of the top tube so it runs onto the right seat stay and down to the rd cleanly. Why do you chose to take the right shifter cable to the left side of the top tube? While on the topic of routing shift cable up top, any opinions on top pull fd's? On Wednesday, September 17, 2014 7:44:53 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote: I've had two mountain bikes with derailleur cables running over the top tube. I like it. My Singular with full derailleur housing down the down tube bugged me so much I made the bike a singlespeed. I second the idea of asking for normal cable stops. Right shifter cable crosses the head tube, and goes onto the left side of the top tube. Philip www.biketinker.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Packing SS-coupled Riv - Tips, Tools Gears to make it easier?
Tom I used it for packing an uncoupled bike. The next bike will be SS coupled. By undoing the front bolts on the MOTUS stem you can position the handlebars in the box (in your case the SS case) as needed. Just make sure that your cables have enough slack, or disconnects. This is very similar to what I do for my tandem when I pack it in its bikepro case. Regards Ted On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 5:26:38 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote: Ted: Did you use this stem for packing an SS coupled bike? I take it turning the bars wasn’t enough to get the bike into the case safely, and this stem allowed you to take the bars off altogether without affecting taping, controls, etc.? Tom *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Ted Shwartz *Sent:* Tuesday, September 16, 2014 1:37 PM *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Packing SS-coupled Riv - Tips, Tools Gears to make it easier? Pierre in 2001 I purchased a 3T MOTUS quill stem with removable faceplate (held on by 2 bolts). Enclosed are a couple of photos, one of which is a little blurry. They show the stem. Maybe you can find one somewhere. This is a great stem because you can pull the handlebars off without having to untape, or remove controls. Here is a listing for one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-3T-Motus-Quill-Stem-w-Silver-Finish-26-0-mm-clamp-x-120-mm-/390372950036 Mine has worked for 13 years and 35,000 miles Regards Ted On Sunday, September 7, 2014 11:39:00 PM UTC-4, Pierre wrote: Hello Bunch, SS-coupled Riv owners: I am getting my 59 cm Hilsen retrofitted with SS couplers. It's not a gigantic frame but not exactly a small frame either. I already anticipate a couple of issues and would like a couple of tips. 1/ Handlebar: is there such thing out there as a quill stem w/ removable front plate? is it worthwhile to investigate threadless adapter + ahead stem? 2/ Fork: (not sure yet if I'll need to remove it) anybody tried the the Velo Orange rinko headset? (or have a spare American Classic Trilock?) Anything things you've learned over the years to make packing/un-packing easy? Or add. tools/gears? Thank you. Pierre -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-own...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof. Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their professional qualifications will be provided upon request. == -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?
Patrick is making good points here. In fact I think that though cue sheets are often provided with gps route files now, they are much older than bike computers and intended to help you follow a route with a map. I think I read in one of Jan's blog posts that he never uses a bike computer. That said if you do carry a smartphone and you do use a gamin 510 (and I expect several other models) and you do have cell coverage where you ride, you can have the gamin pass your position info to the internets via the phone and folks you invite can follow you on a web page. That may be of interest to some, though some may find the idea abhorrent too. Of course there is also the post ride upload option with sites like gamin connect, strava, and ridewithgps. One last point on the Garmin 510. That model has the option to use GLONASS satellites in addition to the GPS satellites. Doing so increases the number of satellites in view, improves accuracy, and is reputed to reduce or eliminate drop outs in some areas heavy tree coverage. On Monday, September 15, 2014 6:10:36 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: I'll make an argument for heeding your historical resistance. Grin. Map and compass and the increased awareness of distance that comes from not relying on gadgets. I realize this is what you've been using, but I would encourage you to keep using it. I understand cue sheets are written presuming such a computer, but I've always found it plenty easy to navigate without them. Of course I'm never in hurry and when there is the rare occasional navigational puzzler I don't mind the time and adventure. If you do get something, I'd suggest using it only as an aid at the head scratchers. If you carry an iPhone or smart phone with you, you can utilize the GPS and map in it at these times and not carry anything additional. There is something very satisfying in having the skill to navigate without gadgetry -- a skill that none can take away. The feel for how far you've come, though the road is windy and steep and you are tired, the feeling of not knowing exactly where you are but still knowing where you are going and roughly how far you've come and have yet to go. Plus, there isn't the constant temptation to ride to the numbers, which I always find lessens my enjoyment of a ride. Of course this approach drive folks nuts who bike with me. How far to...? They ask. Yea far, I answer. They eventually give up, though they still scratch their heads. Grin. With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?
I have never noticed the speed reading jumping around on my Garmin 510, exepct when I hooked up a speed cadence sensor and didn't set the wheel size. I this erratic speed reading you speak of a feature of all Garmin units? Is it limited to those that don't use GLONASS and GPS? Is it all the time every where or limited to specific situations? On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:45:53 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed much, I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device (without its optional speed/cadence sensor that further optionally can be calibrated). The Cateye Strada wireless units are (relatively cheap), have big main numbers (speed), only need a battery change once every year or so, and is better than 1% accurate even if you follow the lookup table on the instruction sheet. You don't have to break out your measuring tape and inscribe markings on the garage floor if you don't want to, although doing so will give you better than ppt (parts per thousand) accuracy. The Knog meters are more or less a joke because of their mounting system. They use the same silicone straps that are quite useful on lights but are dreadful on both the display/head and sensor units. The straps slip easily. I have two sets that I got cheap but I don't use anymore. On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote: though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. You can load routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. you can pick what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one time, and you can set up several screens that you can page through or just stick with one. On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:39:48 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote: Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, and a small, modest screen. Cheers, Neil -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?
Certainly agree with your reasoning and conclusions. There is a lot of computation involved in just getting a gps position fix. All the derived stuff the gamins provide (speed, distance, vertical rate, grade, feet climbed, etc.) involves more computing. Plenty of room for errors. Could be bugs, poor numerical methods, or just limits of accuracy in the system. In any case if adding the speed-cadence thing eliminates the jumps, that clearly implies the GPS only system is deficient. Roughly what size jumps you are you seeing? Do they show up in the time history plots? Can you say what sort of duration and frequency the jumps have? I'm thinking I should try to look for them with my 510. Perhaps I just haven't noticed them even though they are there, perhaps the GLONASS make a difference. I'm kinda curious. On Monday, September 15, 2014 6:53:26 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: I'm not sure if it is specific to my 500 or includes other units. Certainly, the jumps are small but they are noticeable and consistent, even when under clear skies and constant speed on a straight road. They do disappear abruptly when the Garmin sensor is installed which gave some a clue. Nevertheless, the speed that GPS-based units display must be calculated instead of measured like with the Cateyes. If GPS signal isn't optimal, it is conceivable (doesn't mean it's the real reason) that the calculation reveals the lag in positioning. On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:35:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote: I have never noticed the speed reading jumping around on my Garmin 510, exepct when I hooked up a speed cadence sensor and didn't set the wheel size. I this erratic speed reading you speak of a feature of all Garmin units? Is it limited to those that don't use GLONASS and GPS? Is it all the time every where or limited to specific situations? On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:45:53 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed much, I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device (without its optional speed/cadence sensor that further optionally can be calibrated). The Cateye Strada wireless units are (relatively cheap), have big main numbers (speed), only need a battery change once every year or so, and is better than 1% accurate even if you follow the lookup table on the instruction sheet. You don't have to break out your measuring tape and inscribe markings on the garage floor if you don't want to, although doing so will give you better than ppt (parts per thousand) accuracy. The Knog meters are more or less a joke because of their mounting system. They use the same silicone straps that are quite useful on lights but are dreadful on both the display/head and sensor units. The straps slip easily. I have two sets that I got cheap but I don't use anymore. On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote: though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. You can load routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. you can pick what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one time, and you can set up several screens that you can page through or just stick with one. On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:39:48 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote: Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, and a small, modest screen. Cheers, Neil -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: New Kryptonite Bike Lock Idea
How about the rear wheel? On Monday, September 15, 2014 7:31:44 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: I use a really long Kryptonite lock like this that goes around my downtube, straddles the sign post, and around the rim to secure them all with one lock https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=001058 . Just back the DT up to the sign post whil turning bars to left so that wheel and rim go on opposite side of signpost. Run the ulock through them all and secure shackle. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?
though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. You can load routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. you can pick what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one time, and you can set up several screens that you can page through or just stick with one. On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:39:48 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote: Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, and a small, modest screen. Cheers, Neil -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: QB BB spec
Think mine came with a 107 cartridge in it. Changed it out for a PW so I could fine tune the chain line. That was the shortest one RBW stocks, 108? Works very well with old suntour superb track crank. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Blue Bullmoose bar
What size please. The first ones were 150, later they added a 200 for those who wanted more reach. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam 52cm?
I am fairly certain that at least one run of quickbeams included a 650B 52cm frame. If you search you will find photos. I suspect they are rare as hens teeth though. Probably worth calling RBW to make sure they don't have a leftover hiding in the attic. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Results of 6503 conversion to wide/low double
Michael, Thanks for explaining your take on this. On Friday, August 29, 2014 3:57:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote: I run 9 speed. My Saluki Trek have triples (48/34/26 or 24) and I run a 12-27 cassette and that clearly gives me a better low and more closely spaced gear choices. Why 9 spd? Basically I skipped 8. I was running 7 speed freewheels well into the time 9 speed cassette were standard. Around 2000 it was getting hard to find decent freewheels (its actually easier now) so I made the jump to 9 speed cassette hubs. I like a 4-1 big gear (52/13; 48/12; 44/11) because it gives me some extra jump in rolling terrain both to get up to speed on the downhill and to maintain momentum on the uphills. I like the 9 spd with a 12 cog because I can use a 48 ring and get to smaller gears when needed. The 12/27 seems right for me although the 14 to16 is a wee bit more than I like. My Ram has a double because I like the variety, because you can slam a dbl around faster than a triple, and because the shorter derailers are faster and more reliable. Clearly the 44/30 sacrifices a gear and half at the bottom but by using the 11/28 I don't give up anything at the top. I ride a lot of country roads where short ramps of 12-16% are common and getting into a low gear quickly gets rewarded. In the 30/28 I can maintain a decent cadence at 8%, manage 10% for awhile and suffer through the steeper stuff. I recently did a major climb (1600 ft of gain in 4 miles) on the Ram, with that 30/28. No doubt a 24/27 would have been easier. With gearing, everything is a trade off - top bottom; gear spacing, shifting pattern. There not only is no one right answer, there isn't even one perfect answer for any cyclist. Michael On Friday, August 29, 2014 12:06:42 PM UTC-4, ted wrote: Michael, If you would prefer more closely spaced gears (13,14,15 vs 13,15) why don't you use a tighter cassette and a third chainring? Also are you using 8sp? I thought 11-18s usually went 14,16 not 13,15. On Friday, August 29, 2014 4:31:41 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote: The front shift up is a bit slower but the real issue is searching for the next gear way at the other end of the cassette. I run an 11-28 and have a strong preference for closely spaced gears. The jump from 13 to 15 is already larger than I like, so I certainly wouldn't go any wider. With The 44/30 White VBC crank ramped rings, a campy FD short cage Shimano 6700 in the rear this bike shifts so smoothly that I never give a thought to dropping or raising the front.. When I drop the chain I know I am always 2 rear clicks from the next gear. The Silver DT shifters give the ability to jump across the cassette when I need to, which is rare. This is all on the Ram and is the best shifting bike I have ridden in 35 years, including Ultegra SIS. Michael On Wednesday, August 27, 2014 6:33:00 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/27/2014 06:17 PM, Michael Hechmer wrote: let us know how it works for you. My one experiment with a 16 tooth difference left me unhappy with the shifting pattern. But I ride a lot of rolling terrain where fast shifting gets rewarded, so that probably influenced my reaction. Is it that the front shift itself is slow, or that the multiple rear shifts necessary to get to the next closest gear are the source of the slowness? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Loup/Cypres decision paralysis on 650b tire width...38 vs. 32mm...again
As somebody else suggested, the only way you are going to know what the difference is like to you is to buy the other kind and try them. Some folks will tell you 42 is hugely different. So far I don't find the difference between the 32 cypres I was riding a bit ago and the 41 GR I am riding now to be that great. The only person who can tell how things will feel to you is you. I suggest that you measure your brakes to find out what will fit through them inflated, buy that size and see how you do. Oh and don't compare different width tires at the same pressure. At the same pressure, a wider tire feels harder. At 50psi a 22mm tubular is very cushy (at least till it bottoms out on the rim). In theory tire volume has no direct impact on how cushy the ride is. Spring rate of a tire is governed by contact patch size and derivative (neglecting casing stiffness). It is not a pv=nrt delta volume thing at all. On Friday, August 29, 2014 9:19:27 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: Sorts the same thread as before, but with more detailed questions below I am considering before I buy. I love my Hetres, but if the 38 or 32mm tires feel and work just as well and will pass thru my R559 brakes without having to deflate them, then why not get them for the next set? Nit picky, I know, but trying to optimize for my next set of tires. I was thinking the Loup 38's, but thought I could even go to Cypres 32's. I just ride roads/MUPS. Definitely want normal casings. Not the extra legers. *Was thinking about these issues:* *1. Which, in theory, has the least likelihood of punctures (tread thickness and inflation pressures)?* Tread thickness on Loups is 3mm. Tread thickness on Cypres is 3.5? (I think the same as the 3.5 tread Hetre?). Can both be ridden at 50psi? Compass site doesn't say inflation ranges of the tires. Sounds like both the same likelihood of puncture of they can be ridden at 50psi for less debris hammerability into tread? *2. Cushy, soft, road-buzz-dampening ride.* Loup is higher volume than the other, so in theory, the Loup should be more cushy, but don't know if I will notice a diff between the tires, being as they are both wide and if they can both be ridden at 50psi. Any info is appreciated. Also interested to see what a sub-300 gram tire (Cypres) feels like to ride. Not sure if any of this will even make a difference for an un-racer like me. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Results of 6503 conversion to wide/low double
Michael, If you would prefer more closely spaced gears (13,14,15 vs 13,15) why don't you use a tighter cassette and a third chainring? Also are you using 8sp? I thought 11-18s usually went 14,16 not 13,15. On Friday, August 29, 2014 4:31:41 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote: The front shift up is a bit slower but the real issue is searching for the next gear way at the other end of the cassette. I run an 11-28 and have a strong preference for closely spaced gears. The jump from 13 to 15 is already larger than I like, so I certainly wouldn't go any wider. With The 44/30 White VBC crank ramped rings, a campy FD short cage Shimano 6700 in the rear this bike shifts so smoothly that I never give a thought to dropping or raising the front.. When I drop the chain I know I am always 2 rear clicks from the next gear. The Silver DT shifters give the ability to jump across the cassette when I need to, which is rare. This is all on the Ram and is the best shifting bike I have ridden in 35 years, including Ultegra SIS. Michael On Wednesday, August 27, 2014 6:33:00 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/27/2014 06:17 PM, Michael Hechmer wrote: let us know how it works for you. My one experiment with a 16 tooth difference left me unhappy with the shifting pattern. But I ride a lot of rolling terrain where fast shifting gets rewarded, so that probably influenced my reaction. Is it that the front shift itself is slow, or that the multiple rear shifts necessary to get to the next closest gear are the source of the slowness? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] FS: Blue Bullmoose bar
150 or 200 size? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] How would you build it?
Thanks for the details -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.
Actually TA do make a 33t. I think it would be great if RBW would add a 110 33t option to the collection of SILVER rings. On Saturday, August 16, 2014 6:41:25 PM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote: Simple bashtype guard: https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chrg.htm Also, I've been running the XD2 without the small ring, but I think couldn't get down below a 34T inner ring for the 110 circle. - J / cyclofiend.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] How would you build it?
Pray tell, what wheels and tubulars didn't compare? On Sunday, August 17, 2014 4:37:37 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote: I rode tubes in my salad days, and a few years ago rebuilt some wheels and did the deja vu thing. They didn't compare with the the Grand Bois Cerf (29MM) on a pair of Open Pro 28/32 spoke wheels. At some point we need to sort out whether we are rebuilding an antique for show, or a classic to ride. I would go with a good set of light weight wheels; hi quality 27-29 mm tires; a good compact double and classic Campy Brakes. I have a nice pair of drilled Mafac levers I'd be happy to sell. I found my habit of resting a water bottle on the bars and the brake cables weren't a good combo, despite the classic look. Michael On Sunday, August 17, 2014 1:15:14 PM UTC-4, Jason Leach wrote: It is fun to think of build ideas. My thoughts were to try out a classic inspired build with non aero brake levers and tubular tires. I have never ridden tubs before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.
Did they say there was demand for a 43? The TA 33 is available from Harris cyclery too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] New build: Soma GR, and a question
I'm a bit confused. Are you routing the fd cable along the top tube and then down the seat tube? That is the way a top pull fd is designed to work. Pictures look like you have standard down tube cable route for your fd. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur
Which sounds fine. Alternatively can't one go to smaller rings and get a similar effect with stock cassettes? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur
Nope. I thought you might want something smaller than a 35 gear there. As in a reason to want lower than 35 on a road bike. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur
All perfectly valid and true etc. I was just pulling your leg, or poking some fun, or whatever. Of course by all means try the 1x9 on the road bike and have fun. It sure sounds fun. If you ever do find your way south east of sunol, welch creek is a nice wooded, narrow, lightly traveled, dead end road (albeit steep), that gives access to the top/back side of sunol regional wilderness. Going up welch and down through the park is a nice mixed terrain ride. Calaveras to and from welch, well eh. I guess it can't all be great all the time. On Saturday, August 9, 2014 3:26:09 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote: Oh, I see. I promise that if I choose to tackle the steepest climbs in any particular geographic area, I'll bring a low gear. If I had to grab one of my bikes down off the hook right now and do Welch Road, I suppose I'd choose the Hillborne which has a 23 low gear. The Bombadil has an 18 low, but it weighs 40 pounds. The drivetrain on my Black Mountain is pretty flexible. I could have it geared down in the 22 range in about 20 minutes with parts on the shelves in my garage. It's always good to be prepared. On Saturday, August 9, 2014 3:02:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: Nope. I thought you might want something smaller than a 35 gear there. As in a reason to want lower than 35 on a road bike. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Compass 650b 38 vs. 650b 42 mm tires question.
I recently changed tires from ~32mm GB Cerfs (very nice tires) to ~41mm Soma GR Greens (also very nice tires). On reasonable pavement I have not been immediately bowled over by the differences. Therefore I don't think I would find the difference between 38 and 42 significant. However it seems the common wisdom round here is that 42 is much better than 38, so I guess most who have tried em both feel otherwise. One reason to run wider tires is to allow lower pressure, for improved comfort, without getting pinch flats. But I find I can run 32mm tires soft enough to feel a bit squirmy or wandery without getting pinch flats. So I am not convinced this purported advantage really works for me. Another purported advantage of a wider tire is the larger contact patch. At a given pressure, a wider tire feels harder than a narrower one. When you reduce the pressure in the wider tire to account for that, you get a larger contact patch. On Friday, August 8, 2014 12:34:17 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: In what ways would the 42 be superior to the 38? That is what I really need to know. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread
Since I'm not doing anything with a point this evening anyway Ridable bikes on hand minus anything not bolted or zip tied on: ~53cm Gios road race bike, ~19.5 lbs (circa '80 weight weeny-ish steel w/ mostly current parts for ref) mostly campi 10sp ergo, cane creek weight weeny brakes, Ritchey wcs bars, syncros quill stem, ti rail selle italia turbo, suntour superbe pro post, speedplay x pedals, 1 ac cage, 1 arundel sport cage. 56cm AHH ~23.0 lbs 32h lx/synergy wheels w/ soma GR green tires, xcd rd, old nr fd, shim 9sp dt shifters, rh cranks, misc cartridge bb, frog pedals, nitto stem dream bars, old dia-comp areo levers, 559 brakes, s83 post, ti rail san marco rolls w/ kludged brass rail bag loop substitute, 2 king cages, 1 nitto tire cage 52cm Sam Hillborne ~25.6 lbs 32h lx/synergy wheels w/ non force field rumpkin tires, stndrd RBW most everywhere, lugged nitto post, b17., sneaker pedals, albatross bars, 1 king cage 56cm SimpleOne ~28.2 bs son front hub, vo fixed/free rear, vo pbp rims, jack brown green tires, superbe pro track crank, phil bb, lyotard mb pedals w/ clips n straps, nitto stem rb019 bars, s83 post, selle italia turbo, longboards, nitto mini, nitto top, wald med., edelux, bm linetec, pletscher kick stand, 2 king cages 52 cm Bombadil ~28.8 lbs 32h lx/synergy w/ Quasi-Moto tires, xt rd, cx70 fd, sugino xd2 wide low double, very old sugino loose ball bb, mks urban pedals w/ clips n straps, cr720 cantis, 9sp shim on paul thumbies, large bullmoose bar, lugged nitto post, b17, 3 king cages, pletscher kick stand. ~56/53 long bike ~46.2 lbs (bonus fun bike) 531 super-tourist, RBW fork crown, very RBW build, albatross in front, bosco stoker, b17 for both, sneaker pedals, nitto big back rack, nitto mini. I/we are very pleased with all of em (well the Gios may be too small), but that took longer than I thought it would. This weight stuff is indeed insidious, and best eschewed. Riding round the block a few times on any one of them would have been a much better plan. On Friday, August 8, 2014 2:41:07 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote: Don't hold your breath. Jan doesn't ride a Rivendell (even though he still owns one), and Jan knows that bike weight doesn't matter anywhere near as much as people think. Grant also knows that handwringing over bike weight is a pointless exercise. He doesn't know what his bike(s) weigh, doesn't care, knows it doesn't matter, and is busy doing things that are less pointless to him than weighing his bike(s). Me though, I don't mind being pointless. I weighed my road bike. My budget Roadeo: Frameset: Black Mountain Cycles 59cm, cane creek threadless headset wheels: Open pro 32 hole, ultegra rear, WTB front, vintage Dura Ace skewers, 12-25 9sp cassette, 700x32 challenge Eroica tires drivetrain: White Ind VBC cranks 44/30, White steel BB, Ultegra SPDs, Dura Ace F+R ders, DT shifters, SRAM chain components: flite saddle, ritchey alloy seatpost, noodle bars, civia bryant stem, Dia compe 610 centerpull brakes, paul funky monkey hangers, tektro levers, newbaums tape extras: alloy crane bell, gran compe ciclo ENE front rack, two king cages 23.5lbs On Friday, August 8, 2014 1:40:51 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: ...still waiting for Jan Heine and Grant Petersen company to chime in on this...c'mon now y'all...join in on the fun... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Compass 650b 38 vs. 650b 42 mm tires question.
Anton, thanks for the insight. My Cypres tires were the standard variety. I think they start to feel a bit loose between 65 and 60 psi in the rear. I'm just beginning my experiment with 42 mm tires. My first take is the GR Greens get a bit loose between 50 and 45 psi in the rear, and that 50 psi in the GRs feels similar to the Cypres at 65. What 42 mm tires have you used, and what pressures work well for you? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur
Bill, have you been up say Welch Creek rd. off Calaveras? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Soma Grand Randonneur or Hetres or Compass Babyshoe Pass
I have a pair of the light Soma GRs from RBW on my AHH. I have only been on one ride since getting them so not much experience yet. They seem like very nice tires. Prior to the GRs I had Cypres tires on that bike. Just looking at them the size difference is very noticeable. I haven't noticed a big difference in cush/comfort going to the much wider tire. I think the handling of the bike is a bit less responsive/more stable with the bigger tire. The GRs seem more audible than the Cypres were. I have not ridden Pari-moto, Hetre, or Bayshoe Pass. I think these are all fine tires, and you won't go far wrong with any of them. Keep in mind the GRs are slicks. I kinda like that, but others may not. On Thursday, August 7, 2014 1:45:03 PM UTC-7, RJM wrote: Time to start shopping new tires for the Sam Hillborne and I've been thinking of going a little wider than the 38 Pari Motos. Is anybody using the Soma Grand Randonneur tire and have any opinions on them? I know the Hetres have been the tire to go for but was thinking of purchasing from Riv since I have a few more things to pick up and they don't carry it. I appreciate the lighter/faster tire on the 650b for many rides that I do with the bike so I would like to keep the tire lighterweight, which would mean the green version of the Soma tire. Any experiences with the Babyshoe Pass? I use the Stampede Pass on the Roadeo and like them; I would imagine the Babyshoe would be much like it but wider/cushier. Thanks, Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] quick ship, soma GR tires
I was amazed at how fast my order from RBW arrived last week, with zero shipping charge to boot. I ordered late (well past COB) tues. and my package arrived while I was at work on thurs. Granted I live only a few towns away from them, but I still think that is remarkable. Well done RBW. A pair of Soma Grand Randonneur Green tires were in the box. Mounted on Synergy rims with ~45 psi they measured ~39mm when I mounted them, and ~41 the next day. Thats with my non digital english caliper and my aging eyes so YMMV. With my silver side pull brakes all the way open, and my current state of wear on the pads, the tires fit through inflated (just barely on one end). I have only done one ride on them. I started with 35/45psi (front/rear). They seemed to be a bit more squirmy or wandery than I prefer so I added abt 5psi part way through the ride, which seemed to fix that. The bike and I probably weigh in at about 180 to 190lbs. Compared to the GB Cypres (32mm) tires I have been using (@ ~55/65psi) the GB seems a bit cushier. Perhaps on worse surfaces the difference would be more noticeable, but yesterday the difference did not bowl me over. The bikes handling with the GRs is a bit less responsive, or more stable, than with the Cypres. Could be due to larger contact patch, or increased trail, or iduno. The Soma GR are also more audible than the GB Cypres. Oh and they do look BIG to my unaccustomed eyes. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: quick ship, soma GR tires
The GR tires I got were the GRREN version. I don't think there is any puncture protection, and I doubt they are any less susceptible to flatting than the Hetre EL version. For that you would want the BLUE version of the GRs, which likely has somewhat different ride characteristics. As you say those are probably an excellent option for folks seeking a stouter version of a ~40mm 650b slick. The brakes are Tektro 559s. I think these are the same thing as the Silver ones. Just different labeling. As to passing the pads with the GRs inflated, I did that with the cables slack. On the rear this is easily accomplished by pulling a section of brake housing out of the top tube cable stop after releasing the qr on the brake. On the front I think running the barrel adjuster all the way down would do it for my current setup. I am contemplating putting a center pull on the front, thinking releasing the straddle wire would open the brake up more than the side pull's qr does. Another option would be brake levers with a qr built in which should about double the cable release. Regarding speed with respect to the Cypres, when I was first rolling around the block to make sure nothing was amiss, and then heading out to ride, I thought the GRs were just a tad more effort in a given gear. That may well have been either in my head or just the slightly taller effective gear. I guestimate my typically used gears for that sort of thing are an inch taller with the GRs. Certainly I found keeping pace with the group I was with no more demanding than on any other occasion. I suspect the rolling resistance of the GRs is close to that of the Cypres. I think careful controlled measurements would be required to determine which was less and by how much. On Sunday, August 3, 2014 9:46:35 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: Thanks for the ride report. Sounds like they are pretty good and maybe a good puncture proof fast roller alternative if one is looking for something similar to a Hetre but puncture protected. Update us after a while and let us know how they do. Do they feel as fast as the Cypres? I am amazed that you can get them through your brakes without deflating. By SILVER do you mean RBW SILVER, or Tektro 559? The reason I ask is because I have never been able to drop any 50psi 40-42mm tire through my R559's, without deflating. And I set up the brake pads far from the rim and I do open the QR. So that is a luxury to get them out so easily. Very cool. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: NITTO spare tire cage
I have one. It is, as others have noted, intended to hold tubulars. I use mine to hold a spare tube, tire levers and patch kit in a home made bag that fits it's shape. I have it mounted on the bottom of my AHH's down tube. Dimensions are about 1.75x3.25x5.5 inches. I like it. Should get a better bag for it though. Anybody know a good maker of custom roll top bags in the SF Bay Area? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sign I need 1/8 Chain vs. 8-speed?
Ouch. Sorry abt the toe. As others point out, standard chains should be more than strong enough for any of us. I think the only reason to use 1/8in chain is so you can also go with 1/8in cog and chainring. The added surface area should make em last longer, and I like the look. No easy changing of gears with 1/8in stuff though. On Sunday, July 13, 2014 10:15:15 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: So, this happened: https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/14642857154/ Caption and details: Broke my chain (oh! THAT’s what that popping was trying to tell me!) and discovered how littel Entriders like their roots colliding with asphault, even at slow speeds when cranking up a hill. Could have been a LOT worse. I’m surprised it wasn’t, actually. Should I shift to 1/8 chain on the QB? How common is it to bust a chain cranking up a hill? Is that something solved by shifting to 1/8 chain (this was an 8 or 9 speed chain, and I have extra links, so can fix it short term). White Industries says the Dos Eno works with 1/8 chain so long as the chain line is good (I presume it is with Grant’s designing). Thoughts? With abandon, Patrick *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org* *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org* -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Hunq or bomb
Bill, I think that originally Bombadils larger than 48cm had twin top tubes, my 52cm does, though a single top tube 52 changed hands on the list a while back. The Bombadil grew the mid stays in the rear triangle after the Hunqapillar came out. This coincided with the shift from parallel TT to diagatube. I think the update also involved increasing tire clearance some. The junction of the diagatube and the mid stays is labor intensive. I think I heard Waterford didn't want to do it anymore and they were now sending frames from Waterford to Nobilette to have the stays added. I suspect that sort of thing has something to do with the last published Bombadil price being higher than the rest of the models (excepting cutsoms). If you really want the 650b wheels you might want to ask RBW if they would do a 52 Bombadil for you without the diagatube and mid stays. If the answer is yes, then you ask how long it would take and what it would cost. If you are lucky the wait won't be too long and the cost might be a bit less than a regular gen 2 Bombadil. All that said, I think both models are great bikes and you wouldn't go wrong with either one. On Saturday, July 12, 2014 12:28:52 PM UTC-7, MobileBill wrote: Spent many years thinking about it, but finally have set aside enough money to consider a dedicated mountain bike/heavy load tourer. It would supplement my Saluki, and actually get a lot of use in my work, which often involves surveys in national forests and other areas with many miles of poor roads, paved, gravel and single track. And because of a new contract, I'd need to purchase before the end of the year. Now I need some hand-holding. I've got almost enough money now to outfit a hunq complete, and I am certain it's a great bike. But even though I'm snug as a bug on my 58 Saluki, Keven and I suspect I'd end up on a 51 Hunq, with 26-inch wheels. Problem is there's already two 650b bikes in the family, and I've gotten quite comfortable with that wheel size, have parts to boot, and there's a lot more 650b products coming. I've also convinced myself that given my long torso, the cockpit might be a bit small and just a little less comfortable on a long haul. I'd be all over the Bombadil 52, which has the requisite 650b and longer top tube and seems at least a slightly better fit for me, but I'm not yet sure I can excuse myself for spending another grand (and it may take a bit longer to accumulate that). I doubt there's any difference in the sturdiness of these bikes. It all comes down to fit and comfort over long distances and occasionally very rough roads; I would hope sheer looks don't count for more than 10 percent, but I'm told the new Bombadil 52s have the rear tentacles. Those familiar with Hunqs and Boms, think I'll see a difference in fit or ride? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: new chain
Bill, The main problem people have with their chains is that they wear, and if you use them when too worn they ruin your chainrings and cogs. Sounds like you have had this problem. The chain doesn't need to be clean so much as it needs to be lubricated. It is also better if you don't wash grit from the surface of the chain into the rollers when you apply additional lubricant. Applying a penetrating agent like WD40 to a dirty chain without doing a complete soak and clean is liable to do just that. If you just leave the chain alone, you will probably get several hundred miles before you need to do anything with it. Telltale squeaking is the sign that a chain needs attention, not exterior dirt. A good chain lube will give hundreds of miles between applications. If you need to apply fresh lubricant before every ride to keep your chain quiet, the lube you are using is probably not well suited to the task. On Sunday, June 29, 2014 8:11:47 AM UTC-7, William R. wrote: Garth: I really over paid at $14.95 a chain! I got three at that price. Plan to change them out every 1000 miles. Now that I have the super-nice Rene Herse crankset and also very nice SRAM 9-speed cassette. Not sure which model but it has a solid red sleeve for the six largest cogs. Really quiet and solid. I really want the teeth on these two items to last as long as possible! What I have done for the longest time is use wd40 on my chain before every ride. A good soaking and a good wipe. This has worked well. Almost too well as my chains last so long without any big problems that I haven't really paid attention to wear as much as I should. You should see the teeth on my old Apex crank. The teeth are all worn down to points! Well, I rode the new chain 50+ miles this morning on only the factory lube. I guess I will do the same for as long as I can take it. Then I will go back to my tried and true wd40 method. -Bill -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] new chain
Basically don't touch it till it starts to make noise. Then clean with solvents and start fresh with the lube of your choice. Thereafter follow the prescribed regimen for your chosen lubricant. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Reynolds 531 hubub?
Chapter two of http://www.classicrendezvous.com/publications/thecustombicycle.pdf (on tubing) may interest some of you. Actually I like the whole book. Some friends gave me a copy back in the 70s. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Optimal tire pressure questions...
Though some sort of fixture is likely needed I doubt it would be all that hard to rig up something adequate. Certainly measuring tire drop would be less trouble than the roll down testing you have done. But I think the real question is whats so special about 15% drop. I can't recall seeing any supporting argument / evidence for it being optimal. On Saturday, January 19, 2013 8:47:57 PM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote: On Saturday, January 19, 2013 6:48:46 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote: Maybe this summer we could have a crowd-sourced internet tire drop measuring party... Lots of 40+ mm tires on this list, and lots of careful people. Measuring tire drop isn't easy. Berto built a big device to do it. I think it could be simplified, but it's not something you can do with just your bike and a ruler... Jan Heine Editor Bicycle Quarterly www.bikequarterly.com Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Grand Bois tires, size discrepancy
I would think we care about effective spring rate (cush) and how much additional travel is possible before getting a pinch flat. Aren't those driven by the contact patch size, its derivative, and the height of the tire? How does cross section area (or volume) drive those? Are you sure this is a diameter squared dependency? On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 5:31:44 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote: It's 6% in diameter, but that makes 12% difference in volume, which is what we care about. On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 4:56 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com javascript: wrote: That's about a 6% discrepancy, which certainly seems reasonable given different rim widths and tire stretch. With abandon, Patrick On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote: If you order some of Jan Heine's tires, be aware of a size discrepancy. I just got a couple of his Grand Bois tires, which are sold as 700 x 32mm. I knew they were made by Panaracer, and I have used the Panaracer Pasela 32mm and the Jack Brown 33mm tires, so I figured I knew what to expect. When the tires arrived, they looked narrower than I expected. Then, when I opened them up, they were labelled 700 x 30. Then, when I mounted them on my Mavic Open Pro rims, they measured 30mm wide. When I asked Jan, he explained that he has a different system of measurement, and according to his measurement system (mounting them on some rim or other) they measure 32mm. So, expect the Grand Bois tires to be narrower than other tires sold with the same width. -- -- Anne Standards are good, everyone should have one Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Grand Bois tires, size discrepancy
The derivate of contact patch area with respect to drop. I think the support force is roughly psi times contact patch area. I think that though the internal pressure may increase slightly that effect is negligible because the change in tire volume is a tiny fraction of the total. I think the spring rate is psi times delta area divided by delta drop. I think the relationships between contact patch area, tire width and drop are a bit complicated. I suspect spring rate dependence on width is closer to linear than the width squared dependence that is implied by assuming it varies with cross sectional area (which is what I think you are suggesting). So for cush I think it is closer to a linear linear dependence. For pinch flats I think you get a linear increase in spring rate from the width and another linear increase in allowable deformation due to the hight that goes with the width. So that would suggest a scale factor squared dependance on that front. My experience of late has been that I pick the pressure based on ride and handling. Pinch flats just haven't been a problem for me. Of course I don't assume that is the case for everybody. On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 7:14:42 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote: The effective spring rate is going to depend on volume, isn't it, because the volume says how much air there is and that determines how much compression there can be? And the contact patch is going to depend on diameter, isn't it? The derivative of the contact patch with respect to what? On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 6:34 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript: wrote: I would think we care about effective spring rate (cush) and how much additional travel is possible before getting a pinch flat. Aren't those driven by the contact patch size, its derivative, and the height of the tire? How does cross section area (or volume) drive those? Are you sure this is a diameter squared dependency? On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 5:31:44 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote: It's 6% in diameter, but that makes 12% difference in volume, which is what we care about. On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 4:56 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote: That's about a 6% discrepancy, which certainly seems reasonable given different rim widths and tire stretch. With abandon, Patrick On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote: If you order some of Jan Heine's tires, be aware of a size discrepancy. I just got a couple of his Grand Bois tires, which are sold as 700 x 32mm. I knew they were made by Panaracer, and I have used the Panaracer Pasela 32mm and the Jack Brown 33mm tires, so I figured I knew what to expect. When the tires arrived, they looked narrower than I expected. Then, when I opened them up, they were labelled 700 x 30. Then, when I mounted them on my Mavic Open Pro rims, they measured 30mm wide. When I asked Jan, he explained that he has a different system of measurement, and according to his measurement system (mounting them on some rim or other) they measure 32mm. So, expect the Grand Bois tires to be narrower than other tires sold with the same width. -- -- Anne Standards are good, everyone should have one Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- -- Anne Paulson It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Optimal tire pressure questions...
Which is an appeal to authority and a seems to work ok where we have used it. Which is fine so far as it goes, but its not much to go by for guessing how applicable either extrapolations of Berto's curves or the 15% rule of thumb are outside the domain where we have experience using them. I hope I don't come across as to critical. I have pulled the equation for the regression fit of Berto's curves from the spreadsheet and like using it. But I suspect I would do as well (practically speaking) if I just let air out of the tires till they squished a good bit when I got on the bike, and then just rode it and adjusted for feel. On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 8:57:33 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote: Originally, the 15% drop came from the tire companies to whom Frank Berto talked. So Frank then just tried to figure out how to get that value. Our initial tire testing indicated that somewhere around 15% tire drop was the point where performance and comfort were optimized. Since then, we found that at least for supple tires, even lower pressures don't seem to slow the bike down, so it matters even less. However, even today, the 15% tire drop values from the chart are a good starting point for experimenting with tire pressure... Jan Heine Editor Bicycle Quarterly www.bikequarterly.com On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 4:19:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: But I think the real question is whats so special about 15% drop. I can't recall seeing any supporting argument / evidence for it being optimal. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: RIV The Oregon Outback
I often read remarks where different tires are recommended when hauling 20+lbs of gear, yet seldom see rider weight involved in tire recommendations. Why is that? Ill wager the weight of the riders themselves vary by way more than 20lbs. Why don't more tire selection recommendations include rider weight ranges as part of the conditions? On Saturday, June 7, 2014 8:43:03 AM UTC-7, VeloDirt wrote: Lot's great tire info on here. I just wanted to add my 2 cents re: rolling with tires like Jan's. In case anyone gets the wrong idea - keep in mind that Jan didn't carry camping gear and rode straight through. If you're riding with 20+ lbs of extra gear, food and water, you'll most likely want to roll on some fatter tires than he did. Our 2 min. tire recommendation is based on bikepacking the route over several days, not a one-shot-deal. Having ridden the route twice now, I still believe a 2 min tire is the best option for the average rider and I don't think I'd ever ride it on anything skinnier than that. I don't mind being a little slower on the pavement sections in exchange for being much more comfortable on the rough stuff. That is strictly a matter of personal opinion. Donnie velodirt.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Squishy Brakes
Um, please pardon my ignorance, but I'm just curious. What's this pin as opposed to Allen retention you speak of? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Squishy Brakes
So do your cr720s have pins in the holders? Mine came with short (road) pads, and have the allen thing. On Friday, June 6, 2014 5:31:40 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: It's the means of holding the brake pad in place after it's slid into place. Either a cotter pin type deal, or an allen screw going into the slot on the back side of the brake pad. With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Squishy Brakes
Well if you prefer to gripe, by all means stick with that. Were I you though, I'd buy the Yokozuna road shoes when the current pads wear out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
