[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread Phil Leigh

The Rothwells are easy to get hold of in the UK and do the  job. You can
use them at either end of the SB-303 connection. Popular wisdom is that
they should go at the amp end but the difference will be marginal at
best (assuming shielded ie normal) interconnects.

On the subject of power handling...in hi-fi contexts speakers are
rarely damaged (imho) by continuous driving at high levels (unlike,
say, PA speakers where you can get the coils to glow red - and
eventually the cones catch fire!). What most often kills speakers is
power rail DC across the terminals (faulty power amp o/p stage), or
instantaneous high-level very distorted transients (near square waves!)
that kill tweeters through very rapid heating of the voice coil. This
latter effect is nothing to do with the power of the amp per se. A 20w
amp can destroy any (hi-fi) tweeter just as well as a 200w one if you
dump all of its power very quickly into a fairly fragile, thin, piece
of wire. Under normal circmstances that won't happen because the energy
spectrum of real music is such that the tweeters rarely recieve much
power to dissipate as sound or heat. However, under distortion
conditions all bets are off!.

You are better off having an amp that is very hard to drive into
distortion in the first place. This means not only one with a high
overload threshold on its input stage, but also one where the output
stage and power rails will be stable when presented with challenging
signals. I'd rather run a 200w amp with massive operating headroom into
50w speakers than the other way round.

I'm talking about solid state class A or A/B here not valves - which
are a different animal in this respect, since by their very nature
their power stages degrade somewhat more elegantly (usually).
However, they can still suffer from the input overload problem although
depending on the design this can actually sound quite nice..sometimes
:o)

Using the Rothwell (or other makes) on ANY amp has benefits in terms of
lowering the chance of input overload and also reducing the overall gain
of the system, making it unlikely the amp will ever get near its limits
on output. As a side benefit, the volume control operating range on the
amp (if you are using a pre-amp stage) becomes much more useful as the
normal setting for listening is generally shifted to around 12 o'clock
giving finer control.

Older amps (hard to be definitive on when exactly but let's say
anything before 1990 to be on the safe side) were designed to operate
with some inputs (tuner or tape for example) giving full output at
150mV...now CD players and the SB can swing 2v+ at full op... you can
see this is going to be a problem. Even today, some amps only offer
500-750mV inputs - although there will be a CD input which should be
OK. The effects of driving the input stage of a pre-amp into
intermittant overload can vary from harsh obvious distortion to a
generally muffled sound.

One reason (imho) that passive pre's are a popular upgrade is that this
whole effect simply cannot happen - it's VERY hard to overload a
pot!although transformers are another matter...


I would get the 303 serviced to be on the safe side, regardless.
Probably £150-200? depending on what needs doing. The mains connectors
and socketry should be replaced with modern (much better) versions and
electrolytics will definitely be out of spec by now if the amp has been
used since new.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread LikeButtah

Phil,

Your advice seems sound to me. Unfortunately (or fortunately?), I don't
live in the UK. I live in Canada, but the Rothwells are certainly still
an option. They wind up being something like $75 shipped, so pretty
reasonably priced. As far as servicing goes, I'll check with the guy I
bought the 303 from and see what he had done to it over the years. He's
a bit of a technician himself, so perhaps he's already had a go at a few
of the things you've mentionned.

Although servicing is not in the budget for the moment, it's something
I want to keep on the horizon for the next few months. I'm thinking of
having the DIN and the power plug jack changed for more conventional
stuff at the same time.

I'll order the Rothwells, have the cable made, and I'll be sure to let
you know how it goes.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread tyler_durden

There is no need to use a preamp [unless you want to select multiple
sources] or spend big bux on an attenuator.  While your friend is
making cables for you, have him install a two resistor voltage divider
in each cable.  Quality metal film resistors will cost about $0.05
each.

Otherwise, you can go into the power amp and install the resistors on
the input jacks.

TD


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread geraint smith

Mark Lanctot;154969 Wrote: 
 You could also use passive attenuators and go from the SB3 direct to the
 amp.
 
 Strangely, the reports of the white noise of death appear to have
 ceased.

Funny you should mention this. I had an occurrence a couple of days ago
while attempting to play a programme recorded from BBC R3 via DTTV using
EyeTV on a Mac, and converted to Apple Lossless (at least, I think it
was the Apple Lossless version. I had converted one to AIFF as well as
an experiment). It was playing from my iTunes library. I haven't tried
to repeat it yet (and don't particularly want to!) to investigate
further, but it was a nasty surprise. This is using SS 6.5 on an SB2,
by the way. It's just struck me as I write that I'm not sure whether I
told iTunes to switch it from 48kHz to 44.1kHz during the conversion
(and haven't had time to check whether this matters).


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread Mark Lanctot

geraint smith;155253 Wrote: 
 Funny you should mention this. I had an occurrence a couple of days ago
 while attempting to play a programme recorded from BBC R3 via DTTV
 using EyeTV on a Mac, and converted to Apple Lossless (at least, I
 think it was the Apple Lossless version. I had converted one to AIFF as
 well as an experiment). It was playing from my iTunes library. I haven't
 tried to repeat it yet (and don't particularly want to!) to investigate
 further, but it was a nasty surprise. This is using SS 6.5 on an SB2,
 by the way. It's just struck me as I write that I'm not sure whether I
 told iTunes to switch it from 48kHz to 44.1kHz during the conversion
 (and haven't had time to check whether this matters).

The WNOD appears to have changed - this isn't what was reported before.
Earlier it was caused by some spontaneous failure Slim Devices was
never able to reproduce.  People would just come home and their
Squeezebox would be putting out white noise at 100% power and doing so
possibly for hours.

Now it seems connected to file conversion issues.

I'm not saying if it's better or worse as both occurrances would suck,
but I'm just noting that it's changed.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread geraint smith

Mark Lanctot;155255 Wrote: 
 The WNoD appears to have changed - this isn't what was reported before. 
 Earlier it was caused by some spontaneous failure Slim Devices was never
 able to reproduce.  People would just come home and their Squeezebox
 would be putting out white noise at 100% power and doing so possibly
 for hours.
 
 Now it seems connected to file conversion issues.
 
 I'm not saying if it's better or worse as both occurrances would suck,
 but I'm just noting that it's changed.

Ouch! I'd misunderstood the original WNOD issue, then. I know which I'd
think worse. Mine may have hurt, but it was on one track only, and
stopped immediately I hit pause. More a white noise of catnap, by
comparison.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread Mark Lanctot

geraint smith;155256 Wrote: 
 More a white noise of catnap, by comparison.

LOL!  Yeah, at least the current one you're in the room for.

It's good to see that the original issue went away though.  That would
be far more dangerous if you had an auto-on amp.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-16 Thread Phil Leigh

LikeButtah;155218 Wrote: 
 Phil,
 
 Your advice seems sound to me. Unfortunately (or fortunately?), I don't
 live in the UK. I live in Canada, but the Rothwells are certainly still
 an option. They wind up being something like $75 shipped, so pretty
 reasonably priced. The endlers also seem like a good idea, but at $150+
 they're a bit out of my range at the moment. As far as servicing goes,
 I'll check with the guy I bought the 303 from and see what he had done
 to it over the years. He's a bit of a technician himself, so perhaps
 he's already had a go at a few of the things you've mentionned.
 
 Although servicing is not in the budget for the moment, it's something
 I want to keep on the horizon for the next few months. I'm thinking of
 having the DIN and the power plug jack changed for more conventional
 stuff at the same time.
 
 I'll order the Rothwells, have the cable made, and I'll be sure to let
 you know how it goes.
 
 Thanks for all the advice everyone!


Sorry I hadn't realised you were in Canada! the 33/303 is such an
English combo -I really shouldn't assume!

Anyway the advice of others to install padding resistors in the signal
leads will work as well...and cheaper. However, the Rothwells (etc) for
the relatively small outlay will be more flexible over time. The sound
will be the same either way though...

by the way - check this out: http://richardbrice.net/quad33303.htm
Regards
Phil


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread highdudgeon

Read Sean's post on the matter: if the SB3 is your source, then you need
something between it and your amp(s).  That would mean using your
preamp.  The deal is that you run a real, if as yet unrealised by
anyone on this forum, chance of a digital failure of sorts followed by
the blowing of your speakers.  Also, in an ideal world, you want to max
out the volume of the SB3 and use analogue attenuation -- that you avoid
any chance of signal degradation.

LikeButtah;154940 Wrote: 
 Hey team,
 
 I've just put together a new system, and am looking for the best way to
 get good sound of my (unmodded) SB3.
 
 At the moment I'm using a Quad 33 Preamp, and 303 Poweramp to a pair
 Dynaudio Audience 52s. My speaker wire is some flavour of Ixos, and my
 interconnects are complete garbage (i'm having a friend custom make
 some good ones, having Quad stuff means DIN and that makes things
 tricky).
 
 It seems to me that for at least the next sixth months, until I get a
 turntable, the Squeezebox will be my only source. Should I run it
 through the 33, or just go direct to the poweramp and use the SB volume
 control for everything?
 
 At present, I find myself using the SB volume control a lot anyway
 because the Quad doesnt have a remote. Strangely, I find the whole
 thing sounds better when the SB volume is lower (~50) and I increase
 the volume on the Quad. Does that make sense?
 
 Anyhow, I'm hoping you guys can offer some relatively inexpensive
 advice, as I'm a student, and can't really afford much of anything.


-- 
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Relax.  It's about the music.

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread adamslim

LikeButtah;154940 Wrote: 
 At the moment I'm using a Quad 33 Preamp, and 303 Poweramp to a pair
 Dynaudio Audience 52s. My speaker wire is some flavour of Ixos, and my
 interconnects are complete garbage (i'm having a friend custom make
 some good ones, having Quad stuff means DIN and that makes things
 tricky).

Should be a decent system.  Best advice I can give is:
- spend time on speaker positioning.
- get some Deoxit or other contact cleaner to brush up your old Quads
and cables.  Especially important with such old kit.

Re the preamp issue, I suspect the 33 pre will be the weak point in
your system (the Quad pre-amps were never that transparent, I found). 
However, there is a small risk that you will fry your speakers if you
don't use one.  It may however be worth checking if your 303 has a
cut-out - I think they might.  This might offset the risk somewhat (but
will not eliminate it completely!)

Adam


-- 
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SB3 and Shanling CDT-100, Rotel RT-990BX, Esoteric Audio Research 859,
Living Voice Auditorium IIs, Nordost cables

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread totoro

I go from my sb3 to my amp via a pair of endler attenuators. Sounds at
least as good as it did with my old classe preamp. The endler
attenuators are something like $65.


-- 
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread Mark Lanctot

You could also use passive attenuators and go from the SB3 direct to the
amp.

Sean recommends passive attenuators, and I believe they aren't that
expensive.

You need something should the SB3 catastrophically fail and send out
white noise at 100% power.  This is possible and was infrequently
reported about 6 months or more ago - it was referred to as the white
noise of death.  Although it occurred a few times, there were no
reports of blown speakers, but the possibility is there.  Strangely,
the reports of the white noise of death appear to have ceased.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread Skunk

LikeButtah;154940 Wrote: 
 I find the whole thing sounds better when the SB volume is lower (~50)
 and I increase the volume on the Quad. Does that make sense?

Yes, because the volume pot on the Quad pre is probably worn/dirty in
the low gain range. You could replace it with a DACT attenuator, or
swap a passive attenuator for the preamp alltogether.

However, my vote would be to hook up the 303 to the Dynaudio's and see
exactly how much attenuation is needed. What is the power output of the
amp vs. speakers? If they're fairly well matched the sonic gain of
losing the preamp would outweigh the danger of an occasional
glitch...IMHO


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread jonheal

Mark Lanctot;154969 Wrote: 
 You could also use passive attenuators and go from the SB3 direct to the
 amp.
 
 Sean recommends passive attenuators, and I believe they aren't that
 expensive.
 
 You need something should the SB3 catastrophically fail and send out
 white noise at 100% power.  This is possible and was infrequently
 reported about 6 months or more ago - it was referred to as the white
 noise of death.  Although it occurred a few times, there were no
 reports of blown speakers, but the possibility is there.  Strangely,
 the reports of the white noise of death appear to have ceased.

Regarding the WOD, I'm still on 6.3.1 (and have no need to upgade at
the moment), but occasionally, I'll get a burp of what sounds like
white noise to me when the SB transitions from a FLAC to a 128k mp3 in
a playlist. Just a burp, but it scares the crap out of me when it
happens. Makes the cat jump, too!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread tomjtx

Read the threads on the power supply issue. I heard a big improvement
with the stock PS plugged into a power conditioner, I heard even more
improvement with a linear regulated PS. There is a lot of info on this
in these forums. It is controversial, however :-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread Phil Leigh

The 33 is not the most transparent pre-amp in the world..in fact it's
not Quads greatest moment imho. Compared to modern pre-amps its input
overload threshold is very low and will easily be driven into overload
by modern equipment. This is why it sounds better when you turn the SB
down and raise the vol on the 33.
I'd junk the 33 and use Rothwell attenuators between the SB and the 33
= this is cheap, and will sound a lot better than going via the 33
IMHO. Try it and see.
Regards,
Phil

PS the 303 is also a bit long in the tooth - have you had it rebuilt?
- it will certainly need its electrolytics (and possibly rectifier)
replacing by now...


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread LikeButtah

Whoa, thanks for all the responses in such short time! You guys are
awesome...

Skunk, that's exactly my problem, before reaching 1/4 on the 33 volume
control the level isnt even on balance between the two speakers. It
seems to click in at about that level. How could I check to see how
much attenuation is needed? (i'm pretty new to the technical side of
all this stuff). I know the specs of the 303 are listed here, but I'm
not quite sure which figure to use:
http://www.retrohifi.co.uk/quad_303.html . The speakers recommend
upwards of 25w for a small sized room, which is what I'm rolling with
for the moment.

Phil and Adam, your advice seems sound and it looks to me like that's
the direction I should be heading. I realize that the 33 isn't a great
piece of equipment, and it certainly is getting long in the tooth. I'm
fairly certain it has not been rebuilt ever, and I certainly am having
a few problems with the volume control, and the balance. 

The rothwells seem like a solid solution. I was reading up a bit on
them, and people suggest that you plug them in directly to the power
amp. Considering I've got 4 pin din and not RCA, would it be a
disadvantage to plug them into the squeezebox directly and then run a
custom rca - 4 pin from the SB to the 303? 

Attenuators definately seem like something promising, and would
certainly save me the effort of getting up to change the volume all the
time. I'm also going to look further into an Elpac power supply, and
perhaps a Bolder mod also.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread Skunk

LikeButtah;155084 Wrote: 
  How could I check to see how much attenuation is needed? 

I don't think there is a method for predetermining it. By checking, I
meant slowly turn the SB3-303 from zero until it's at maximum
listening level. Since the SB3 vol scale works in .5 dB steps you can
roughly estimate how much attenuation would put your loudest listening
level at 100/100. If you can only bear to turn it up to 60/100, that
roughly equates to needing 30 dB attenuation to properly use the SB3 as
preamp. If your friend is handy maybe he can wire the appropriate
resistor into your interconnect?

If I read correctly those Dynaudios were rated at 150W continuous power
handling, so it doesn't seem like a short burst of full power from your
50W amp would hurt them (though the nature of the noise won't be
musical..)

OTOH, if you were doubling the continous rated power of the monitors at
300/side- and using the SB3 as preamp with a max volume of 12, you'd be
running considerably more risk.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread ob_kook

I have Dynaudio Contour 1.3 MKII and use a passive preamp by Luminous
Audio. It basically gives you a volume knob instead of attenuation
settings, and I've found it to be really transparent. It's relatively
cheap and the company was great to deal with. 

http://www.luminousaudio.com/axiomrca.html

They have an XLR version as well.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread NewBuyer

LikeButtah;155084 Wrote: 
 ...The rothwells seem like a solid solution. I was reading up a bit on
 them, and people suggest that you plug them in directly to the power
 amp. Considering I've got 4 pin din and not RCA, would it be a
 disadvantage to plug them into the squeezebox directly and then run a
 custom rca - 4 pin from the SB to the 303?...

Can you find a 4-pin din to rca adapter? If so, I think using RCA-outs
on SB to Endler Audio 'Shotgun' Attenuators directly on your amp
(through such adapter) would be a terrific option for you...


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-20 Thread dbls

Néstor Wrote: 
 Hi,
 
 If I remember it well, EAC always re read the suspicios block a fixed
 time (I guess 8 times the first time) and if, lets say , 7 of  the 8
 reads of the same block produce the same value, and only one is
 different then EAC assumes that the most common value  is the right
 value. Thats why it always fill the first line of leds. If EAC finds 4
 for one value, and the other 4 for some other value, then it will read
 8 times more ( the second row of leds) and then decide again. If by 64
 re-reads (or 32 dont remember well now) it cant decide whats the right
 value for the block, it will give a data error message.
 

Ah, thanks for jogging my memory; what you say sounds familiar.

But can anyone tell me if CopyTest yielding identical CRCs in burst
mode is as reliable as secure mode?


-- 
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-05 Thread cliveb

seanadams Wrote: 
 Also, any opinions as to whether plextor drives are really that much
 better than the others these days? They earned a good reputation early
 on, but AFAICT all CD drives are now equally good at ripping.
Here's one anecdotal bit of evidence:

I have a Plextor PX712A, and have always felt it was really good at
ripping. I particularly like all the facilities in Plextools. However,
the other day my daughter asked me to rip one of her CDs, and it was in
really terrible condition. There was a scratch on *both sides* of the
disc (must have got snagged between something), and I could see that
the actual data layer had been damaged. In attempting to rip it in the
Plextor, it failed on the last track (where the worst damage was). Even
switching off error detection didn't help. The Plextor always ended up
reporting read error, whether I used Plextools or EAC.

I then put it in the LG4521 drive (a DVD-ROM/CDRW combo) in my wife's
PC, and EAC managed to read that one track (in secure mode). It took
about 95 minutes to rip just the one track, and there were lots of
sync errors and suspicious positions reported, but at least we got
a usable rip in the end.


-- 
cliveb
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-03 Thread max . spicer

The ones that you rip in non-secure mode will potentially not sound as
good as the ones that you do in secure mode.  In secure mode, they are
guaranteed to be an exact copy of your cd.  It depends on whether you
actually sit in front of your pc whilst it's ripping.  I did my 300 odd
albums in secure mode over a month or so.  I'd put a new cd in whenever
I noticed that the old one had finished, then would go off and do
whatever else needed doing around the house.  The difference between 3
minutes and 7 was therefore fairly irrelevant.

The nice thing about the combination of secure mode and flac is that
you know you will never have to rerip.  With anything else, you're not
quite so future proof.

Max

Mike Anderson Wrote: 
 OK, well I set up EAC/FLAC on my PC according to all the instructions,
 and it seems to be running OK.
 
 However, it's still taking somewhere between 5-10 minutes to rip most
 of my CDs.  I've got hundreds of CDs, so it's a major undertaking.
 
 Question:  What am I losing by not running EAC in secure mode?  Doing
 so substantially cuts down on the ripping time.  So how much difference
 does it really make?
 
 Can I use secure mode on those CDs I really care about (about 20% of
 them) and unsecure mode on the rest of them, or would that present
 problems?


-- 
max.spicer

The wild things roared their terrible roars and gnashed their terrible
teeth
and rolled their terrible eyes and showed their terrible claws
but Max stepped into his private boat and waved good-bye
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-03 Thread Mike Anderson

max.spicer Wrote: 
 The ones that you rip in non-secure mode will potentially not sound as
 good as the ones that you do in secure mode.


I guess my question is, how potential is potentially, and how bad is
not as good?

I should add that I'm using a Plextor 740A to do the ripping, and I
don't seem to encounter many errors.

I frequently work on my computer too, but for whatever reason, it's a
pain to do with EAC running.  For one thing, the EAC window always
wants to be on top.


-- 
Mike Anderson
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-03 Thread Patrick Dixon

The problem I've found, is that whilst CDPs use 'concealment' to conceal
any errors they detect but cannot correct, ripping s/w doesn't.

So any ripping errors you do get, tend to be very annoying on playback;
pops, clicks - that kind of stuff, whereas a good CDP will still sound
like music.

A lot depends on the care you have taken with your CD collection
(looked-after CDs tend to have fewer errors IME), and how much you
value you peace-of-mind.  I'd hate to sit down to listen to something
only to find it had ripping errors and I needed to dig the CD out and
rip it again, so I'd rather just spend the time doing it 'right' in the
first place. YMMV


-- 
Patrick Dixon

www.at-view.co.uk
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-02 Thread Mike Anderson

OK, well I set up EAC/FLAC on my PC according to all the instructions,
and it seems to be running OK.

However, it's still taking somewhere between 5-10 minutes to rip most
of my CDs.  I've got hundreds of CDs, so it's a major undertaking.

Question:  What am I losing by not running EAC in secure mode?  Doing
so substantially cuts down on the ripping time.  So how much difference
does it really make?

Can I use secure mode on those CDs I really care about (about 20% of
them) and unsecure mode on the rest of them, or would that present
problems?


-- 
Mike Anderson
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-10-01 Thread Andrew L . Weekes

 Honestly, how much can you really dress that up?

Well, the 16bit part is the only real limiting factor (unless you are a
bat ;) ) and since surprisingly few systems actually to manage the full
16 bits in actual reality, you may be surprised!

Andy.


-- 
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread Mike Anderson

Well, I'd have to get an external/firewire drive or something, so that'd
be a little more expensive than $100, and I'd have to keep it hooked to
my laptop (I'm assuming).

But I'll do a blindfold test on a random sample of songs and see how
much difference I can detect between lossless and 320.  If I can tell
the difference, I'll step up.

Thanks for the advice.


-- 
Mike Anderson
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread seanadams

Mike Anderson Wrote: 
 Well, I'd have to get an external/firewire drive or something, so that'd
 be a little more expensive than $100, and I'd have to keep it hooked to
 my laptop (I'm assuming).
 
 But I'll do a blindfold test on a random sample of songs and see how
 much difference I can detect between lossless and 320.  If I can tell
 the difference, I'll step up.
 
 Thanks for the advice.


Also check out this thread for tips on mp3 vs. lossless:

http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=16497

The differences between 320kbps mp3 and 750k-ish FLAC will be all about
high frequencies and phase accuracy. You will need a VERY good system,
especially the tweeters, to appreciate a difference.

I have always believed that room acoustics and speakers are the most
imporant factors, but that's not our business. :)  Sb2 aims to be the
most accurate source, but there is so much more to the whole systems.


-- 
seanadams
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread cliveb

Does your A3.2 have the ability to connect direct into the power amp
side, bypassing the preamp? If so, I recommend you try feeding the SB2
analogue outputs direct into the power amp and use the SB2 volume
control. Even the best preamps will slightly degrade the signal, and in
my experience eliminating the preamp is a bigger gain than improving the
DAC (probably because the SB2 DAC is pretty damn good to start with).


-- 
cliveb
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread Mike Anderson

cliveb Wrote: 
 Does your A3.2 have the ability to connect direct into the power amp
 side, bypassing the preamp? 

Nope;  it's a very basic (albeit high-quality) piece of gear.


-- 
Mike Anderson
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread Fifer

 Even the best preamps will slightly degrade the signal
Yes, we can tend to forget that anything in the signal path, however
esoteric and expensive, degrades the signal. I sometimes feel that we
should not talk of 'upgrades' or 'improving the sound', but that the
focus should be on minimising the degredation. A better amp doesn't
improve the sound, it just screws it up less.

Sorry, I know nothing about Apple products so cannot advise on
software.


-- 
Fifer
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread Mike Anderson

^^^ Right, I gather that's what makes this a nice (integrated) amp - It
has no tone knobs, no balance, nothing -- just a volume knob and input
selectors.


-- 
Mike Anderson
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread radish

Mike Anderson Wrote: 
 Looks like it will take well over 30 mins to encode most of my CDs, 

Wow. Why? Do you have a very slow CD drive or something? On my PC using
EAC a typical rip takes about 2 minutes, with compression happening in
the background and rarely taking more than another 30 seconds. I'm
afraid I can't offer any specific software recommendations for Mac,
though I know there are people on the forum who are Mac users.


-- 
radish
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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-30 Thread Robin Bowes

radish said the following on 30/09/2005 17:17:
Mike Anderson Wrote: 

Looks like it will take well over 30 mins to encode most of my CDs, 



Wow. Why? Do you have a very slow CD drive or something? On my PC using
EAC a typical rip takes about 2 minutes, with compression happening in
the background and rarely taking more than another 30 seconds. I'm
afraid I can't offer any specific software recommendations for Mac,
though I know there are people on the forum who are Mac users.


If your rips only take 2 minutes using EAC then you're not using secure 
mode whicn means you might as well not use EAC.


I suggest you visit one of the oft-posted links telling you how to set 
up EAC correctly.


R.
--
http://robinbowes.com

If a man speaks in a forest,
and his wife's not there,
is he still wrong?

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice on sound quality

2005-09-29 Thread gharris999

Your maggies deserve lossless!  Try encoding something with ALAC as an
easy to accomplish test, and compare it with the AAC at 320.  If you do
decide to go lossless, you might want to spend money first on hard
disks, rather than a DAC.  I’ve got an older pair of MG 3.5s and I’m
using a modified ART DI/O DAC.  So far, it’s hard to qualify the
difference between the ART and the internal DAC in the SB2.  I’m very
happy listening to the SB2 analogue out.


-- 
gharris999
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