Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
Good point. Hey Rick, what do you define as SAG? When you say the alignment isnt close...in what way?? Toe, chamber, etc... What is the wheel base...?? I can probably get you frame dimensions for your car (I would have to dig through a pile of old books). If the front of the frame does have sag, with the doors and fenders not lining up, the damage on the frame is probably in the kickup area under the firewall. Other then wheel base settings, that will probably not affect your alignment unless both rails are different. Like I said before, I wouldnt have anyone do any pulls on your car unless they setup and measure it first and can point to the issue and show you what is wrong. Roarke From: jimthompso...@gmail.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 20:31:26 -0400 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment Pull the whole front clip in one piece. You need to really see what is going on. Unless the car has been wrecked. There should be no reason for sag. You got a problem that will only get worse if you just start pulling on it. You changed upper arms. New bushings in the lower? Stock spinals? Original springs? Ball joints? From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 8:01 PM To: countryroad...@yahoo.com; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment I should have been more specific about the mounts. They are going to loosen the frame mount, but said the rubber could still tear. How I'm not sure? He was concerned about their age ( 10 years or so). Now my question back at you - If they REMOVED the mounts - what supports the front of the motor? How do I know there is sag? First 2 different shops could not achieve near the recommended alignment #'s after my Global West Upper Control Arm conversion. Even with MOOG Frame-Saver offset cross shafts. Also - yes the door/fender gaps on both sides have never been right & the hood/fender gaps are off too. I'm wanting to go for paint later this spring and want this to be the last paint it needs. On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:40 PM, Josh Campbell wrote: Dang I'm glad I read this before I replied, you hit the nail on the head, especially the fact of taking the motor mounts off if they are afraid of ripping them. Josh Campbell The Body Shop (606) 265-5301 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought it was worth 71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP! --- On Tue, 3/10/09, ROARKE PONCE wrote: From: ROARKE PONCE Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 4:46 PM I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions for you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is? If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they need to remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too lazy to do it right. Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the frame? How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal or mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc... Hope this helps, Roarke Ponce Shop Manager Excel Auto Body, LLC 541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231 excelautob...@e-isco.com I-CAR Platinum Individual ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500 From: ric...@gmail.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
They make 3 leg motor slings that rest on the fender flanges and the front core support and that is what you have to use to hold the motor up off the mounts so that you do not tear stuff up. If they leave the bolts in the holes and then make the pulls, I would replace the bolts and mounts after wards. Yah, it maybe usable, but after being stressed in that manner, I would not run it in my own car. Its up to you on that one. Alot of this depends on how far and how hard they have to pull... OK. Its actually good that the sheet metal alignment is off. They can use the body to help determine how far to go with the pulls. If the car needs to be painted and such all the better too...cause they have to pull beyond the point they need the frame to be at and try and let it settle back into place. Think of setting a compound fracture. You have to pull the bone ahead and beyond then let it rest back into position. I would definitely have the shop check for cracks before and after the pulls. If they are a good shop, they should be OK with you asking to see the car after setup and before the first pulls. Have them show you where the frame is damaged and then again after they make the pulls, to show you where they have repaired it before they undercoat anything. This way too you can have a idea as to what they have done (Have them take photos if you cant be there in person). Remember the steel on these old beasts is extremely mild steel, heat doesnt hurt it unless its dripping steel on the floor. The more you can cold straighten the better, but if its off by as much as it sounds, they very well may have to heat a spot or two. I hope they can fix it for you... Roarke Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 19:01:19 -0500 From: ric...@gmail.com To: countryroad...@yahoo.com; chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment I should have been more specific about the mounts. They are going to loosen the frame mount, but said the rubber could still tear. How I'm not sure? He was concerned about their age ( 10 years or so). Now my question back at you - If they REMOVED the mounts - what supports the front of the motor? How do I know there is sag? First 2 different shops could not achieve near the recommended alignment #'s after my Global West Upper Control Arm conversion. Even with MOOG Frame-Saver offset cross shafts. Also - yes the door/fender gaps on both sides have never been right & the hood/fender gaps are off too. I'm wanting to go for paint later this spring and want this to be the last paint it needs. On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:40 PM, Josh Campbell wrote: Dang I'm glad I read this before I replied, you hit the nail on the head, especially the fact of taking the motor mounts off if they are afraid of ripping them. Josh Campbell The Body Shop (606) 265-5301 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought it was worth 71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP! --- On Tue, 3/10/09, ROARKE PONCE wrote: From: ROARKE PONCE Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 4:46 PM I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions for you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is? If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they need to remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too lazy to do it right. Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the frame? How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal or mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc... Hope this helps, Roarke Ponce Shop Manager Excel Auto Body, LLC 541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231 excelautob...@e-isco.com I-CAR Platinum Individual ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500 From: ric...@gmail.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
Pull the whole front clip in one piece. You need to really see what is going on. Unless the car has been wrecked. There should be no reason for sag. You got a problem that will only get worse if you just start pulling on it. You changed upper arms. New bushings in the lower? Stock spinals? Original springs? Ball joints? From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 8:01 PM To: countryroad...@yahoo.com; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment I should have been more specific about the mounts. They are going to loosen the frame mount, but said the rubber could still tear. How I'm not sure? He was concerned about their age ( 10 years or so). Now my question back at you - If they REMOVED the mounts - what supports the front of the motor? How do I know there is sag? First 2 different shops could not achieve near the recommended alignment #'s after my Global West Upper Control Arm conversion. Even with MOOG Frame-Saver offset cross shafts. Also - yes the door/fender gaps on both sides have never been right & the hood/fender gaps are off too. I'm wanting to go for paint later this spring and want this to be the last paint it needs. On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:40 PM, Josh Campbell wrote: Dang I'm glad I read this before I replied, you hit the nail on the head, especially the fact of taking the motor mounts off if they are afraid of ripping them. Josh Campbell The Body Shop (606) 265-5301 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought it was worth 71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP! --- On Tue, 3/10/09, ROARKE PONCE wrote: From: ROARKE PONCE Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 4:46 PM I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions for you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is? If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they need to remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too lazy to do it right. Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the frame? How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal or mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc... Hope this helps, Roarke Ponce Shop Manager Excel Auto Body, LLC 541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231 excelautob...@e-isco.com I-CAR Platinum Individual ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating _ Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500 From: ric...@gmail.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
I should have been more specific about the mounts. They are going to loosen the frame mount, but said the rubber could still tear. How I'm not sure? He was concerned about their age ( 10 years or so). Now my question back at you - If they REMOVED the mounts - what supports the front of the motor? How do I know there is sag? First 2 different shops could not achieve near the recommended alignment #'s after my Global West Upper Control Arm conversion. Even with MOOG Frame-Saver offset cross shafts. Also - yes the door/fender gaps on both sides have never been right & the hood/fender gaps are off too. I'm wanting to go for paint later this spring and want this to be the last paint it needs. On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 6:40 PM, Josh Campbell wrote: > Dang I'm glad I read this before I replied, you hit the nail on the > head, especially the fact of taking the motor mounts off if they are afraid > of ripping them. > > *Josh Campbell* > The Body Shop (606) 265-5301 > 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) > 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) > 87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought it was > worth > 71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP! > > > --- On *Tue, 3/10/09, ROARKE PONCE * wrote: > > From: ROARKE PONCE > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 4:46 PM > > > I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions > for you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the > sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is? > > If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they > need to remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too > lazy to do it right. > > Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the > Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the > particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the > frame? How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal > or mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc... > > Hope this helps, > > Roarke Ponce > Shop Manager > Excel Auto Body, LLC > 541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231 > excelautob...@e-isco.com > I-CAR Platinum Individual > ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating > > > > -- > Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500 > From: ric...@gmail.com > To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment > > The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get > the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper > control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the > PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and > son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked > good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. > >What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a > thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also > said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them > but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. > > -- > Rick Schaefer > 72 TPI El Camino > > > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
Dang I'm glad I read this before I replied, you hit the nail on the head,
especially the fact of taking the motor mounts off if they are afraid of
ripping them.
Josh Campbell
The Body Shop (606) 265-5301
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought it was worth
71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP!
--- On Tue, 3/10/09, ROARKE PONCE wrote:
From: ROARKE PONCE
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"
Date: Tuesday, March 10, 2009, 4:46 PM
#yiv1745234721 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv1745234721 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions for
you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the
sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is?
If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they need to
remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too lazy to do
it right.
Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the
Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the
particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the frame?
How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal or
mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc...
Hope this helps,
Roarke Ponce
Shop Manager
Excel Auto Body, LLC
541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231
excelautob...@e-isco.com
I-CAR Platinum Individual
ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500
From: ric...@gmail.com
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag. I've never been able to get the
recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control
arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books
with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did
collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8
years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them.
What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough
job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its
possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee
that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx.
--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
Rick, Sag means that you may have a crack in the chassis just behind your control arms! Check! This is what I found on my 65 Malibu that did extensive driving on farm roads in the 60/70's Reinforced with new metal and CO2 welding! fine now! - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 6:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
Did they give you a price estimate on the work? I need it done also but I don't know the cost? Thanks Les On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 12:23 PM, Rick Schaefer wrote: > The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get > the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper > control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the > PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and > son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked > good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. > >What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a > thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also > said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them > but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. > > -- > Rick Schaefer > 72 TPI El Camino > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
I am a Shop Manager for a Body Shop in Oregon, and I have some questions for you. How do you know it has some Sag? How much Sag is there? Is the sheetmetal aligned with the frame as it is? If they are pulling hard enough to possibly tear the motor mounts, they need to remove the mounts, no need to damage good parts because of being too lazy to do it right. Asking if 6-7 hours is OK is like going to a grocery store and asking the Manager "How much is a bag of groceries?". Beats me, don't know the particulars of whats in the bag. Same thing here, how far off is the frame? How much time is needed to remove and reinstall any trim, sheetmetal or mechanical parts that are in the way? Etc... Hope this helps, Roarke Ponce Shop Manager Excel Auto Body, LLC 541-880-0522 fax 541-850-5231 excelautob...@e-isco.com I-CAR Platinum Individual ASE Master Tech Repair, Refinish and Estimating Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:23:52 -0500 From: ric...@gmail.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
If they are using an alignment rack then yes! However tell them to remove the mountings, then they cannot tear!!! It is an allday job. My mate has a body shop and to straighten the chassis is not simply a pull and hey presto! - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 6:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] Frame Alignment
The frame on my 72 el camino has some sag.I've never been able to get the recommended alignment specs to optimize the installed Global West Upper control arms. I finally found a body shop in this city who still has the PRINTED books with the necessary specs. Shop is a semi-retired father and son. They did collision work on my Jeep 12-15 years ago. And it looked good for the 6-8 years I kept the car so I have a bit of confidence in them. What do I need to question them on/ask them to check - to ensure a thorough job? They said its a 6-7 hour job - sound reasonable? Also said that its possible that the motor mounts will tear- they loosen them but no guarantee that they won't tear - reasonable? Thanx. -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame weld
In a message dated 4/6/2008 4:53:29 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > roughley 1/4''x3/8''. what I planed was to weld it closed and grind it > down ? Jimmy.C. > sonds pretty small, that should work ok ** Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv000316)
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame weld
roughley 1/4''x3/8''. what I planed was to weld it closed and grind it down ? Jimmy.C. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 3:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] frame weld In a message dated 4/6/2008 11:03:14 A.M. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a small rust hole in in the frame just between the wheel and front bumper. I want to weld it closed . besides the battery is there anything (electronics) that shoud be disconected ? thanks , Jimmy.C no that should be all you need to disconnect- how big is the hole?? you might want to cut out the area and put a new piece of metal in there if the hole is big Harlan http://hometown.aol.com/harkem123/HarlanKemperAssociatesindex.html -- Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.36/1041 - Release Date: 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame weld
In a message dated 4/6/2008 11:03:14 A.M. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a small rust hole in in the frame just between the wheel and front bumper. I want to weld it closed . besides the battery is there anything (electronics) that shoud be disconected ? thanks , Jimmy.C no that should be all you need to disconnect- how big is the hole?? you might want to cut out the area and put a new piece of metal in there if the hole is big Harlan http://hometown.aol.com/harkem123/HarlanKemperAssociatesindex.html **Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv000316)
[Chevelle-list] frame weld
I have a small rust hole in in the frame just between the wheel and front bumper. I want to weld it closed . besides the battery is there anything (electronics) that shoud be disconected ? thanks , Jimmy.C
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted
POR has been good to me. Just don't let too much time elapse between coats. On Jan 14, 2008 9:17 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Sounds like things are coming along well. Take some pictures if yah can! > > Good luck, > > Tim > > > > -Original Message- > From: Thomas Ringlein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' > Sent: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 4:58 pm > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted > > Listers- > I just finished the process of galvanizing my frame and coating with > POR15 Chassiscoat Black. It rained the day they galvanized the frame, and > they stored it outside until I had a chance to pick it up the next day. > Needless to say, the frame was covered with oxidation – white powder. I > scrubbed the entire frame with POR15's highly alkaline Marine Clean > (Potassium Hydroxide) using a toothbrush to get the oxidation off. Yea, > it sucked. Then I treated with their Metal Ready to etch and leave a zinc > phosphate coating that was supposed to help the paint adhere. I let it > sit all night to dry, and then hit it with my heat gun in the morning to get > any of the last droplets of water out of their hiding place, and proceeded > to paint. > The paint is thick. I was concerned that I would run out of my quart > before the job was done, so I put a very thin coat on the front. After it > became apparent that I would have enough paint, I started putting it on > thicker. A few observations about the paint: > 1) Did I say it was thick? This is good because you can paint upside > down and the paint does not run down the brush and down your sleeve. > 2) It is prone to drip. Around any holes in the frame, if you are > painting both sides, check for drips afterwards. If you are working on a > show piece, or something you are trying to do an original restoration on, > this may not be the best stuff. They say that it is not a perfect finish, > but gets the job done. So far, I agree. Coat #2 will look better, I am > sure. Perhaps if I sprayed it? I donno – but I don't have the equipment > to spray anyway…. > 3) Brush painting a Chevelle frame is a pain in the a$$. It took me a > little over 3 hours for one coat, and my arms are exhausted. Why didn't I > do this job when I was in my 20's? This thing is kicking my a$$. > 4) I used about 24oz of paint for the entire frame. I may have used more > if I laid it on as think on the front end. I will rectify that with coat #2 > later tonight. > If anyone cares, I may post later after the 2nd coat and let you know how > it went. Next week I can start putting the suspension back on and get it > back on its wheels. > Tom Ringlein > Clovis, CA > 1972 Chevelle – in pieces > US Air Force – 12 years and counting > -- > More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL > Mail<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp000503> > ! > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted
Sounds like things are coming along well. Take some pictures if yah can! Good luck, Tim -Original Message- From: Thomas Ringlein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 4:58 pm Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted Listers- I just finished the process of galvanizing my frame and coating with POR15 Chassiscoat Black. It rained the day they galvanized the frame, and they stored it outside until I had a chance to pick it up the next day. Needless to say, the frame was covered with oxidation – white powder. I scrubbed the entire frame with POR15’s highly alkaline Marine Clean (Potassium Hydroxide) using a toothbrush to get the oxidation off. Yea, it sucked. Then I treated with their Metal Ready to etch and leave a zinc phosphate coating that was supposed to help the paint adhere. I let it sit all night to dry, and then hit it with my heat gun in the morning to get any of the last droplets of water out of their hiding place, and proceeded to paint. The paint is thick. I was concerned that I would run out of my quart before the job was done, so I put a very thin coat on the front. After it became apparent that I would have enough paint, I started putting it on thicker. A few observations about the paint: 1) Did I say it was thick? This is good because you can paint upside down and the paint does not run down the brush and down your sleeve. 2) It is prone to drip. Around any holes in the frame, if you are painting both sides, check for drips afterwards. If you are working on a show piece, or something you are trying to do an original restoration on, this may not be the best stuff. They say that it is not a perfect finish, but gets the job done. So far, I agree. Coat #2 will look better, I am sure. Perhaps if I sprayed it? I donno – but I don’t have the equipment to spray anyway…. 3) Brush painting a Chevelle frame is a pain in the a$$. It took me a little over 3 hours for one coat, and my arms are exhausted. Why didn’t I do this job when I was in my 20’s? This thing is kicking my a$$. 4) I used about 24oz of paint for the entire frame. I may have used more if I laid it on as think on the front end. I will rectify that with coat #2 later tonight. If anyone cares, I may post later after the 2nd coat and let you know how it went. Next week I can start putting the suspension back on and get it back on its wheels. Tom Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle – in pieces US Air Force – 12 years and counting More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted
Yeah POR15 is some pretty good stuff, it lays down better when its sprayed but when brushed it lays down well. I coated a ball-peen hammer for the fun of it a few years back, the stuff holds up very well! Good luck! Josh Campbell 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right stuff) 71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on) - Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Chevelle-list] Frame is Painted
Listers- I just finished the process of galvanizing my frame and coating with POR15 Chassiscoat Black. It rained the day they galvanized the frame, and they stored it outside until I had a chance to pick it up the next day. Needless to say, the frame was covered with oxidation - white powder. I scrubbed the entire frame with POR15's highly alkaline Marine Clean (Potassium Hydroxide) using a toothbrush to get the oxidation off. Yea, it sucked. Then I treated with their Metal Ready to etch and leave a zinc phosphate coating that was supposed to help the paint adhere. I let it sit all night to dry, and then hit it with my heat gun in the morning to get any of the last droplets of water out of their hiding place, and proceeded to paint. The paint is thick. I was concerned that I would run out of my quart before the job was done, so I put a very thin coat on the front. After it became apparent that I would have enough paint, I started putting it on thicker. A few observations about the paint: 1) Did I say it was thick? This is good because you can paint upside down and the paint does not run down the brush and down your sleeve. 2) It is prone to drip. Around any holes in the frame, if you are painting both sides, check for drips afterwards. If you are working on a show piece, or something you are trying to do an original restoration on, this may not be the best stuff. They say that it is not a perfect finish, but gets the job done. So far, I agree. Coat #2 will look better, I am sure. Perhaps if I sprayed it? I donno - but I don't have the equipment to spray anyway.. 3) Brush painting a Chevelle frame is a pain in the a$$. It took me a little over 3 hours for one coat, and my arms are exhausted. Why didn't I do this job when I was in my 20's? This thing is kicking my a$$. 4) I used about 24oz of paint for the entire frame. I may have used more if I laid it on as think on the front end. I will rectify that with coat #2 later tonight. If anyone cares, I may post later after the 2nd coat and let you know how it went. Next week I can start putting the suspension back on and get it back on its wheels. Tom Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle - in pieces US Air Force - 12 years and counting
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Unless you are drag racing or twisiting the car up constantly, it's unnecessary. I regularly torque up my 70 and it's never had a frame problem. Besides, the hardtop give the car much more rigidity than a ragtop would have. Those rear braces were only on cars with 12 bolt rears. A street driven cruiser will not have any noticeable benefits from it. As for cracks at the roof/quarter seam, some cars (vinyl top cars mostly) used plastic filler from the factory for that seam instead of lead. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor Why would it be a waste of time? It's not like they were super stiff frames even when new. Chevy used a convertible frame for the 65 SS. They had those braces for the rear in stick shift cars (BB only?) Why do some hardtops have fatigue cracks on quarter panels where roof B pillar attaches.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
I have a convertible 65SS and I added the read support bars. If the frame is out why not box it in just in case. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 1:22 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame > From: "Tom Rightler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2006/11/26 Sun PM 08:31:00 EST > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame > It's a waste of time on a hardtop car. > Tom Rightler > MCC Newsletter Editor >> - Original Message - >> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:55 PM >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame >> What is the thinking about reinforcing or boxing a >>frame while it is out? Probably a waste of time and >>money for a mild sbc, but a hard driven wild bbc may >>benefit? tks..ds Why would it be a waste of time? It's not like they were super stiff frames even when new. Chevy used a convertible frame for the 65 SS. They had those braces for the rear in stick shift cars (BB only?) Why do some hardtops have fatigue cracks on quarter panels where roof B pillar attaches. Pete Geurds Douglassville, PA
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
> From: "Tom Rightler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2006/11/26 Sun PM 08:31:00 EST > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame > It's a waste of time on a hardtop car. > Tom Rightler > MCC Newsletter Editor >> - Original Message - >> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:55 PM >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame >> What is the thinking about reinforcing or boxing a >>frame while it is >> out? Probably a waste of time and >>money for a mild sbc, but a hard driven >> wild bbc may >>benefit? tks..ds Why would it be a waste of time? It's not like they were super stiff frames even when new. Chevy used a convertible frame for the 65 SS. They had those braces for the rear in stick shift cars (BB only?) Why do some hardtops have fatigue cracks on quarter panels where roof B pillar attaches. Pete Geurds Douglassville, PA
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Thanks Tom.. ds From: "Tom Rightler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] FrameDate: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 20:31:00 -0500 It's a waste of time on a hardtop car. Tom RightlerMCC Newsletter Editor Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends list.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
It's a waste of time on a hardtop car. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Denny Shewmake To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame What is the thinking about reinforcing or boxing a frame while it is out? Probably a waste of time and money for a mild sbc, but a hard driven wild bbc may benefit? tks..ds -- View Athlete's Collections with Live Search
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
What is the thinking about reinforcing or boxing a frame while it is out? Probably a waste of time and money for a mild sbc, but a hard driven wild bbc may benefit? tks..ds View Athletes Collections with Live Search
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame - Now Galvanizing
I've done this myself with great results. I got a frame galvanized for not much more than a stripper wanted to clean it. The trick is to not have them do the final step in oil quenching. Then you are free to powdercoat, paint or whatever you want. I will be doing it again soon on a 76 vette frame for use at the beach. - Original Message - From: Thomas Ringlein To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 9:43 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame - Now Galvanizing Darrell sez "My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed" All this talk about frame coatings has me intrigued because I am starting this process right after Christmas. Has anyone considered galvanizing? Check out this site http://einstyn.com/einstyn-hardtop-02.htm I think it is the dude that manages the Team Chevelle's wagon page. He makes a pretty good case for galvanizing - what does everyone else think? I have a top notch galvanizing shop about 30 minutes away in Madera - so I was considering it. Seems like a PITA to overcoat the zinc coating, but 50 years of protection may be worth it because I am keeping this car forever. T.J. Ringlein Clovis California 1972 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame - Now Galvanizing
That's Pete Lohr, wagon extrodinaire. There are a few guys on Team Chevelle that have had frames galvanized, and I'm going to be one of the next ones as well. I plan on having the frame for my convertible galvanized when I get to it, after the Charger is finished. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor All this talk about frame coatings has me intrigued because I am starting this process right after Christmas. Has anyone considered galvanizing? Check out this site http://einstyn.com/einstyn-hardtop-02.htm I think it is the dude that manages the Team Chevelle's wagon page. He makes a pretty good case for galvanizing - what does everyone else think? I have a top notch galvanizing shop about 30 minutes away in Madera - so I was considering it. Seems like a PITA to overcoat the zinc coating, but 50 years of protection may be worth it because I am keeping this car forever. T.J. Ringlein Clovis California 1972 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame - Now Galvanizing
Darrell sez "My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed" All this talk about frame coatings has me intrigued because I am starting this process right after Christmas. Has anyone considered galvanizing? Check out this site http://einstyn.com/einstyn-hardtop-02.htm I think it is the dude that manages the Team Chevelle's wagon page. He makes a pretty good case for galvanizing - what does everyone else think? I have a top notch galvanizing shop about 30 minutes away in Madera - so I was considering it. Seems like a PITA to overcoat the zinc coating, but 50 years of protection may be worth it because I am keeping this car forever. T.J. Ringlein Clovis California 1972 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Forget about powdercoating and painting it, galvanizing is the only way to go. Check the Team Chevelle forums for info on it. Alot of guys are doing now and it's cheaper than sandblasting and painting. You can paint the galvanized frame once it's completed. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
*** Eastwoods Is Great That Is What I Used The First Time Rust Encapsulator.They Come In 3 Colors Now Black,Rust-Red, And Silver.But The Price Is What Shocked Me, It Would Be Great If You Can Spray With A Gun. Cheaper That Way But If You Buy The Rattle Cans You Will Need To Take Out A Loan At The Bank LOL.Good Luck In Whatever You Choose To Do!! *** Eddie Bumgarner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Im getting ready to paint my frame with Eastwood chassis frame paint. I think its a good choice for me. Powdercoating is the best if its done right. But thats my opinion. good luck!!! Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv. - Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Im getting ready to paint my frame with Eastwood chassis frame paint. I think its a good choice for me. Powdercoating is the best if its done right. But thats my opinion. good luck!!! Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv. - Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
I agree about the Rock Hard finish. The prep work is key to a quality powder coat "long term". If it is to be hauled on a trailer and/or never see the rain, salt or any elements than by all means, even powdercoating over light rust, should be fine. If I ever do a frame off, it will not be using powder. I am just looking at "long term" forever coating that if done right nothing would ever happen to it even driving year round. The great thing about powder is that when it is cured and cooled down it will never get any better than that while an epoxy/wet paint takes up to 21 days for total cure. - Original Message From: Kevin Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 4:40:21 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame *** I Dunno I Powder Coated Everything On My Car, I Mean Everything And It Always Holds It"s Shine And It Is Hard As A Rock.I Have Dropped The Parts On The Floor(Cement) Never Even Hurt It. I Dunno How It Is Gonna Handle Out On The Road. But Then I Don't Drive On Anything Less Then Pavement At Car Shows. My 2 Cents.Besides The Powder Coat Comes In A Ton Of Colors. Thanks Chev 702 *** Carl Ziegler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: There are several options depending on how extravagent you want to get. If a brush is all you want POR 15 is your best bet. If you have a place to spray you could go with a zinc rich epoxy with a nice epoxy color/gloss of your choice. That would give you great corrosion protection. Powder Coating isn't all it is cracked up to be unless the pretreatment IE sandblasting is near perfect and the coater doesn't cut corners in the baking process. If the powder is undercured it will provide less protection than a good coat of rustoleum over a wire brushed surface. My $.02 and 22 years in the field of corrosion protection. - Original Message From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:35:54 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
*** I Dunno I Powder Coated Everything On My Car, I Mean Everything And It Always Holds It"s Shine And It Is Hard As A Rock.I Have Dropped The Parts On The Floor(Cement) Never Even Hurt It. I Dunno How It Is Gonna Handle Out On The Road. But Then I Don't Drive On Anything Less Then Pavement At Car Shows. My 2 Cents.Besides The Powder Coat Comes In A Ton Of Colors. Thanks Chev 702 *** Carl Ziegler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: There are several options depending on how extravagent you want to get. If a brush is all you want POR 15 is your best bet. If you have a place to spray you could go with a zinc rich epoxy with a nice epoxy color/gloss of your choice. That would give you great corrosion protection. Powder Coating isn't all it is cracked up to be unless the pretreatment IE sandblasting is near perfect and the coater doesn't cut corners in the baking process. If the powder is undercured it will provide less protection than a good coat of rustoleum over a wire brushed surface. My $.02 and 22 years in the field of corrosion protection. - Original Message From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:35:54 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed - Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates. - Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
There are several options depending on how extravagent you want to get. If a brush is all you want POR 15 is your best bet. If you have a place to spray you could go with a zinc rich epoxy with a nice epoxy color/gloss of your choice. That would give you great corrosion protection. Powder Coating isn't all it is cracked up to be unless the pretreatment IE sandblasting is near perfect and the coater doesn't cut corners in the baking process. If the powder is undercured it will provide less protection than a good coat of rustoleum over a wire brushed surface. My $.02 and 22 years in the field of corrosion protection. - Original Message From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:35:54 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com
[Chevelle-list] Frame
My brother is having his frame sand blasted before welding in motor mounts and braces, after he is finished he was asking is there anything beside powder coating that can be done, like paint. I have seen here that there is another option to powder coating. Any suggestions for him to think about. This is on a '40 Chevy Business Coupe, 350 sbc. Thanks Darrell '65 Chevelle SS 327 4 speed
[Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
hey Devin You wouldnt happen to have any big block frame mounts you would be willing to sell also would you? Let me know Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mount
The big block mounts are in the middle of the top two pictures, and the small block mounts are on the outside of the top two pictures. It would have been a lot easier if he labeled them in the picture or had separate pictures. It took me a while to figure out what he meant, and without a picture from the table top it will be hard to be sure which is taller. Or maybe they are close, but the holes are different? Anyone have pictures that would show us which is taller? Brad From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 4:34 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mount Guys, I found this post by Craig in my saved files - finally. If you would please go to the picture link he provides and take a look at the different mounts. Am I assuming correctly when he says the "middle" set of mounts are for big blocks, he is talking about the second set from the top? If so, that set (chassis mount) does indeed seem taller... Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:07 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] BBC/SBC frame towers I also found this... Stacey, the frame to engine mount brackets are different from small block to big block, however all of the hole locations are the same. The difference is that the big block brackets have a strengthening rib that runs around the bottom toward the front, also it has a notch to clear the interlocking tab in the big block engine mount.Phil is correct in stating that you must use small block engine mounts with small block frame to engine mount brackets, but you can use small block or big block engine mounts with big block frame to engine mount brackets. If you try to use the big block engine mounts on the small block frame to engine mount brackets, the interlocking tab will hit the bracket before the engine mount gets in the correct possition, you wont be able to get it to line up. I found this out the hard way. I had to cut the tab off before I could get everything to line up. Here are some pictures that might help, the big block mounts are in the middle. Frame brackets The link is to pics of the two types. If anyone can sort this out, please do. Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
[Chevelle-list] Frame Mount
Guys, I found this post by Craig in my saved files - finally. If you would please go to the picture link he provides and take a look at the different mounts. Am I assuming correctly when he says the "middle" set of mounts are for big blocks, he is talking about the second set from the top? If so, that set (chassis mount) does indeed seem taller... Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:07 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] BBC/SBC frame towers I also found this... Stacey, the frame to engine mount brackets are different from small block to big block, however all of the hole locations are the same. The difference is that the big block brackets have a strengthening rib that runs around the bottom toward the front, also it has a notch to clear the interlocking tab in the big block engine mount.Phil is correct in stating that you must use small block engine mounts with small block frame to engine mount brackets, but you can use small block or big block engine mounts with big block frame to engine mount brackets. If you try to use the big block engine mounts on the small block frame to engine mount brackets, the interlocking tab will hit the bracket before the engine mount gets in the correct possition, you wont be able to get it to line up. I found this out the hard way. I had to cut the tab off before I could get everything to line up. Here are some pictures that might help, the big block mounts are in the middle. Frame brackets The link is to pics of the two types. If anyone can sort this out, please do. Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
If you are not out to race anybody and just want to have fun with your car, I would leave the 283. I have the Flowmaster El Camino kit (with 50s) on mine with stock exhaust manifolds and a 4bbl Edelbrock carb & intake. I have a "mild street cam". All is good. You can get really crazy trying to make your car the best and the most or you can just enjoy it for what it is. You can have lots of fun with a Chevelle with a 283. Put loud (dual) mufflers on it and most of the people who pull up alongside you and ask what size engine is in it will believe whatever you tell them. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 5:21 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts So in your opinion, would you leave the 283 and beef it up. and if so what would you do. it has no headers. just a single exhaust and a small two barrel carb. any ideas or input would be greatly appriciated. -- Original message -- From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Basically because the 350 was gone when I got it, and I got the 283 for free. You have a 283 in a '70? It's a fine engine. Certainly not for racing but it will get you around. You can put loud mufflers on it and make it sound like you have something other than a squirrel chasing a nut. I have lots of fun with mine. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:38 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts John, why would you change from a 350 to a 283. just curious. I have a 70 chevelle i bought a couple months ago in tenn. i've been trying to finish my garrage so i hav'nt been able to do anything to the car yet. I've been thinking about changing to a 350 crate engine allthough the 283 does seem to run fine. however iam always thinking of more power.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
So in your opinion, would you leave the 283 and beef it up. and if so what would you do. it has no headers. just a single exhaust and a small two barrel carb. any ideas or input would be greatly appriciated. -- Original message -- From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Basically because the 350 was gone when I got it, and I got the 283 for free. You have a 283 in a '70? It's a fine engine. Certainly not for racing but it will get you around. You can put loud mufflers on it and make it sound like you have something other than a squirrel chasing a nut. I have lots of fun with mine. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:38 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts John, why would you change from a 350 to a 283. just curious. I have a 70 chevelle i bought a couple months ago in tenn. i've been trying to finish my garrage so i hav'nt been able to do anything to the car yet. I've been thinking about changing to a 350 crate engine allthough the 283 does seem to run fine. however iam always thinking of more power.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Basically because the 350 was gone when I got it, and I got the 283 for free. You have a 283 in a '70? It's a fine engine. Certainly not for racing but it will get you around. You can put loud mufflers on it and make it sound like you have something other than a squirrel chasing a nut. I have lots of fun with mine. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 8:38 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts John, why would you change from a 350 to a 283. just curious. I have a 70 chevelle i bought a couple months ago in tenn. i've been trying to finish my garrage so i hav'nt been able to do anything to the car yet. I've been thinking about changing to a 350 crate engine allthough the 283 does seem to run fine. however iam always thinking of more power.
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
John, why would you change from a 350 to a 283. just curious. I have a 70 chevelle i bought a couple months ago in tenn. i've been trying to finish my garrage so i hav'nt been able to do anything to the car yet. I've been thinking about changing to a 350 crate engine allthough the 283 does seem to run fine. however iam always thinking of more power. -- Original message -- From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I changed from a 1969 350 to a 1958 283 block and I had to shim the frame mounts. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Monday, January 02, 2006 3:57 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts I swapped a 468 BB into my 68 El Camino that was formerly a 307 and kept the frame mounts. All I changed was the motor mounts. Never had a problem using the 307 frame mounts. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
The difference is that you are able to use motor mounts that have the interlocking feature. The indent provides the necessary clearance for the addition of the interlocking parts that the standard mounts for the SB. The interlocking mounts were introduced with the big block and keep from tearing the rubber part of the non locking mounts. Added safety for any motor. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 8:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fram Mounts I have a 65 that had the SBC mounts. I bought the BBC Frame mounts thinking they were different. They are the same height, size, use the same motor mounts, etc... The only difference is that the big block ones have an indent, that appears to do nothing. As far as a '65 goes. You can use the same mounts for either BBC or SBC. Physically they are the same, cosmetically they are different. http://65ss.com/images/engine/06052004pic8.jpg Charles 65ss.com - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fram Mounts In a message dated 1/2/2006 6:21:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: So what you are saying here Tom is that the frame mounts are the same, but the motor mounts would be different?Thanks Joe P. 307's use their own frame and motor mounts. If you put any other small block (350, 400) in an original 307 car, you need to use 307 mounts as they bolt right up to a 350. If you want to put a big block (396/454/502) in an original 307 car, you need to change the frame mounts. If you have an original 350 car, or an original big block car, you can use the original frame mounts to put in any small block other than a 307 or big block. Tom No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Could some do me a favor..I can't seem to start my own post..so could one of you do it for me I am going to Venice Beach Fla the last week in Jan and I am wanting to know if anyone on the board knows of any cruise nites or any car things going on down there. Thanks so much Ron Menchey 71 convt. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts I swapped a 468 BB into my 68 El Camino that was formerly a 307 and kept the frame mounts. All I changed was the motor mounts. Never had a problem using the 307 frame mounts. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
You might have pinpointed why I didn't have a problem,Tom. My 68 used an electric fan set-up. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] The only problem I have ever seen it create is the fan coming into contact with the fan shroud. That is the result of the 307 mount being 3/8" of an inch taller than the other V-8 mounts. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
I changed from a 1969 350 to a 1958 283 block and I had to shim the frame mounts. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 3:57 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts I swapped a 468 BB into my 68 El Camino that was formerly a 307 and kept the frame mounts. All I changed was the motor mounts. Never had a problem using the 307 frame mounts. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
I don’t know how much they go for but I found em and cleaned em off a bit…heres a couple of pictures -rj From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ryan Langstraat Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 12:32 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts RJ If the mounts are in decent shape I would be interested in them. Let me know how much you would like to have for them and we can work something out. Thanks again Ryan <> <> <> <> <> <>
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
I swapped a 468 BB into my 68 El Camino that was formerly a 307 and kept the frame mounts. All I changed was the motor mounts. Never had a problem using the 307 frame mounts. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
My 66 came with a set of frame mounts already in place. I picked up a pair of engine mounts, and found the gap where the frame mount hump goes to be too wide. I would have to shim like 1/2 inch total to use them. I took one of the frame mounts off and went to the parts store to see what would fit. I ended up getting a set identified to work with a 327. I remember from a previous thread here either the SBC or the BBC mounts makes the engine sit a bit lower. Can someone tell me which is which? Thanks, Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 10:13 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts If anyone has ever taken good side-by-side pictures of 307 Chevelle frame mounts and other small block/big block mounts maybe even along with some measurements, Id like to use the photos on my Chevellestuff.com web site. Might help explain differences to others in the future. Ive never had a 307 A-body so I cant say from personal experience what the difference is. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 9:12 PMTo: Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts Check out the free classifieds on Team Chevelle, you will probably find a good used set there for a decent price.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
RJ If the mounts are in decent shape I would be interested in them. Let me know how much you would like to have for them and we can work something out. Thanks again Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
In a message dated 1/2/2006 10:14:20 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: If anyone has ever taken good side-by-side pictures of 307 Chevelle frame mounts and other small block/big block mounts – maybe even along with some measurements, I’d like to use the photos on my Chevellestuff.com web site. Might help explain differences to others in the future. I’ve never had a 307 A-body so I can’t say from personal experience what the difference is. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 Dale, I have some somewhere, I'll see if I can dig them out and get some pictures. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
If you cant find any I got a pair in my garage taking up space -rj From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:48 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts Believe it or not, these are available through aftermarket. I changed my 307 mounts out for the other mounts as well. Check out www.chevroletrestorationworld.com and they should have them. I am sure most other restoration supply houses can get them as well. May even be on E-bay. Steve - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: 1/1/2006 10:04:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts Tom Thank you for the reply. Yes, my car was a 307 originally. I am in the long and expensive process of dropping a big block in and just wanted to make sure I was right. Thanks again Ryan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
If anyone has ever taken good side-by-side pictures of 307 Chevelle frame mounts and other small block/big block mounts – maybe even along with some measurements, I’d like to use the photos on my Chevellestuff.com web site. Might help explain differences to others in the future. I’ve never had a 307 A-body so I can’t say from personal experience what the difference is. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 9:12 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts Check out the free classifieds on Team Chevelle, you will probably find a good used set there for a decent price.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Believe it or not, these are available through aftermarket. I changed my 307 mounts out for the other mounts as well. Check out www.chevroletrestorationworld.com and they should have them. I am sure most other restoration supply houses can get them as well. May even be on E-bay. Steve - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: 1/1/2006 10:04:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts Tom Thank you for the reply. Yes, my car was a 307 originally. I am in the long and expensive process of dropping a big block in and just wanted to make sure I was right. Thanks again Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Check out the free classifieds on Team Chevelle, you will probably find a good used set there for a decent price.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Tom Thank you for the reply. Yes, my car was a 307 originally. I am in the long and expensive process of dropping a big block in and just wanted to make sure I was right. Thanks again Ryan
[Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
Sorry Guys...Just realized that I fat fingered some of my words on the last email. I will try to watch the spelling! Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame work
On our custom frames,we blast the frame,use body filler,then prime,and shoot. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Kyle Bennett I was thinking the other day about sandblasting my frame on the 71 chevelle and as i began to go out back and look at it, i thought of something. In several locations, the frame has divits in the metalalmost like that of a golf ball. Now to dress this frame and make it look good, what would be the options for smothing these dimpled spots. I thought of blasting, then POR-15 gel which is applied like RTV (just smooth it out). Or blast then prime, then body filler What would be the prefered method of smoothing the rough spots on this frame? What have you all done? Thanks Kyle
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame work
Kyle Is the body already off the frame? If you have time, check out having the frame galvanized. Several people have had their frames stripped & dipped for less than what many pay just for blasting. I'm talking stripping & galvanizing the frame, control arms and anything else removable for a low of $300 to a hi of about $600, depending on location. There are several discussions in the archives at chevelle tech. Do a search there for real life stories. Its amazing. I used POR and like it, but galvanizing gets into all of the nooks & crannies that you could never reach with a spray setup. Be aware that the galvanizers must omit a step so that you can get paint to stick later on. Anyway just thought I'd offer up an option. On 10/10/05, Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Kyle, Weld them and grind them smooth. If they are on the top of the chassis, you'll never see them. Mike - Original Message - From: Kyle Bennett To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 11:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] frame work I was thinking the other day about sandblasting my frame on the 71 chevelle and as i began to go out back and look at it, i thought of something. In several locations, the frame has divits in the metalalmost like that of a golf ball. Now to dress this frame and make it look good, what would be the options for smothing these dimpled spots. I thought of blasting, then POR-15 gel which is applied like RTV (just smooth it out). Or blast then prime, then body filler What would be the prefered method of smoothing the rough spots on this frame? What have you all done? Thanks Kyle No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/124 - Release Date: 10/7/2005 -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] frame work
Kyle, Weld them and grind them smooth. If they are on the top of the chassis, you'll never see them. Mike - Original Message - From: Kyle Bennett To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 11:20 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] frame work I was thinking the other day about sandblasting my frame on the 71 chevelle and as i began to go out back and look at it, i thought of something. In several locations, the frame has divits in the metalalmost like that of a golf ball. Now to dress this frame and make it look good, what would be the options for smothing these dimpled spots. I thought of blasting, then POR-15 gel which is applied like RTV (just smooth it out). Or blast then prime, then body filler What would be the prefered method of smoothing the rough spots on this frame? What have you all done? Thanks Kyle No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/124 - Release Date: 10/7/2005
[Chevelle-list] frame work
I was thinking the other day about sandblasting my frame on the 71 chevelle and as i began to go out back and look at it, i thought of something. In several locations, the frame has divits in the metalalmost like that of a golf ball. Now to dress this frame and make it look good, what would be the options for smothing these dimpled spots. I thought of blasting, then POR-15 gel which is applied like RTV (just smooth it out). Or blast then prime, then body filler What would be the prefered method of smoothing the rough spots on this frame? What have you all done? Thanks Kyle
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame and tranny
I didn't powder coat it I painted it with Flat black epoxy. Three coats and it almost looks factory. With the manual set up I used pedal from an 1986 trans Am (Borg Warner 5spd)and the hydraulic set up. The pedal part went pretty good(Same main bolt size and I cut down the 69's brake pedal to fit the 86 rubber pedal cover) but getting the hydraulic unit set up on the right angle to get full stroke was a real job. Dave Ingersoll,Ontario My web site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/ - Original Message - From: Ryan Langstraat To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 10:14 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame and tranny Dave, I looked at your website. Good job on the 69 by the way. I noticed that your frame looked like it was powder coated? If so, are you happy with it? Also, it looks like you changed from an automatic to manual?? I couldnt really tell. Anyway, did you use a kit to do it? Which one and how well did it work?? Thanks for your time Ryan
[Chevelle-list] Frame and tranny
Dave, I looked at your website. Good job on the 69 by the way. I noticed that your frame looked like it was powder coated? If so, are you happy with it? Also, it looks like you changed from an automatic to manual?? I couldnt really tell. Anyway, did you use a kit to do it? Which one and how well did it work?? Thanks for your time Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67
On my '66 the number is on the left rear. Where the gas tank is. It's on the top rail and the side. You can't see it with out pulling the body. Rich - Original Message - From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 10:46 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67 > > > > > I have gone through previous information. Looks like there should be a > partial VIN (last 6 digits) on the Right Rear frame rail, behind the axle, > of a '66 and '67 Chevelle. Can anyone confirm this? I'm trying to help a > guy that has mismatched VIN's in the firewall and door frame of a '67. > > Thanks for your help, > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67
Thanks for responses. I should clarify. The body tag on the firewall of this guys car has a 138177 on it. His drivers door pillar has a 136177K on it. He got dooped and so did the guy he bought from. I saw this car on Ebay and brought the inconsistency to his attention as he has offering it as a Super Sport and not a clone. He since changed his auction to present the correct info and now is trying to learn more about the Chevelle numbering system. Thanks again for the help, Krister "Dale McIntosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent by:cc: (bcc: Krister Meister/PBU/Nsk-Corp) [EMAIL PROTECTED]Fax to: evelles.net Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67 03/15/2004 06:23 PM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List There can't be a mismatch on the VIN in the locations you mention, IF you mean by the firewall the body number plate (trim/cowl tag). That is NOT a VIN (vehicle identification number). What's on the a-pillar is the LEGAL VIN of the car. If it's been changed, then there's a problem. The trim/cowl tag (more accurately known as the Fisher Body plate) will give you the model (136xx - and usually matching the first five numbers on the VIN plate), trim, plant, paint, and a number known as the Fisher Body unit number - usually following the assembly plant. This number has nothing to do with the VIN. Here (http://www.chevellestuff.com/67stuff/67velle/tags/vin_atl14.jpg) is an example of the VIN plate on the a-pillar. Here (http://www.chevellestuff.com/67stuff/67velle/67_trim_tags-atl1.htm) are numerous example of body number plates for the same assembly plant - Atlanta in this case. There are places on the frame (supposedly hidden) that have the VIN stamped on it. I've heard of the VIN also being stamped behind the heater cover on the firewall as well as on the right-rear quarter panel, just under the weatherstripping (or close to it) towards the top right as you look at the open trunk. Dale McIntosh I've stopped 2,745 spam messages. You can too! One month FREE spam protection at http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnetsig/ > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Krister Meister > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 9:47 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67 > > > > > > I have gone through previous information. Looks like there > should be a partial VIN (last 6 digits) on the Right Rear > frame rail, behind the axle, of a '66 and '67 Chevelle. Can > anyone confirm this? I'm trying to help a guy that has > mismatched VIN's in the firewall and door frame of a '67. > > Thanks for your help, > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > > >
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67
There can't be a mismatch on the VIN in the locations you mention, IF you mean by the firewall the body number plate (trim/cowl tag). That is NOT a VIN (vehicle identification number). What's on the a-pillar is the LEGAL VIN of the car. If it's been changed, then there's a problem. The trim/cowl tag (more accurately known as the Fisher Body plate) will give you the model (136xx - and usually matching the first five numbers on the VIN plate), trim, plant, paint, and a number known as the Fisher Body unit number - usually following the assembly plant. This number has nothing to do with the VIN. Here (http://www.chevellestuff.com/67stuff/67velle/tags/vin_atl14.jpg) is an example of the VIN plate on the a-pillar. Here (http://www.chevellestuff.com/67stuff/67velle/67_trim_tags-atl1.htm) are numerous example of body number plates for the same assembly plant - Atlanta in this case. There are places on the frame (supposedly hidden) that have the VIN stamped on it. I've heard of the VIN also being stamped behind the heater cover on the firewall as well as on the right-rear quarter panel, just under the weatherstripping (or close to it) towards the top right as you look at the open trunk. Dale McIntosh I've stopped 2,745 spam messages. You can too! One month FREE spam protection at http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnetsig/ > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Krister Meister > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 9:47 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67 > > > > > > I have gone through previous information. Looks like there > should be a partial VIN (last 6 digits) on the Right Rear > frame rail, behind the axle, of a '66 and '67 Chevelle. Can > anyone confirm this? I'm trying to help a guy that has > mismatched VIN's in the firewall and door frame of a '67. > > Thanks for your help, > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67*
Krister, There should be a vin stamped underneath the weather stripping in the trunk on the passanger side, about six or seven inches down from the upper corner. Rocky = A Man And His Chevelle, It's A Beautiful Thing!! Mid America Chevelle Club #220 Team Chevelle #1530 MY66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67
I have found them on the top of frame rail, under trunk, drivers side when I blasted a frame.Left side rail. Dave Ingersoll,Ontario My web site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/ - Original Message - From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 10:46 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67 > > > > > I have gone through previous information. Looks like there should be a > partial VIN (last 6 digits) on the Right Rear frame rail, behind the axle, > of a '66 and '67 Chevelle. Can anyone confirm this? I'm trying to help a > guy that has mismatched VIN's in the firewall and door frame of a '67. > > Thanks for your help, > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 SS #'s matching > >
[Chevelle-list] Frame rail VIN on a '66 and '67
I have gone through previous information. Looks like there should be a partial VIN (last 6 digits) on the Right Rear frame rail, behind the axle, of a '66 and '67 Chevelle. Can anyone confirm this? I'm trying to help a guy that has mismatched VIN's in the firewall and door frame of a '67. Thanks for your help, Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s matching
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Andre: thats a bummer. But when I come to Italy you can buy me 20 beers and we can discuss it further. oh by the way the wife's family is from Badia which is near Monte Carlo. Ciao, Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame
OK Larry . I have to admit that a 1964 frame wont fit on a 1968 unless you modify it heavily LLL Wayne thank you for your help anyway !! Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tigergutt Sent: 13. september 2003 20:08 To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Great Wayne !! thanks ! My mail is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: 13. september 2003 16:29 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Hi Andre. I have a drawing of a 64 Fram specs.. I canl scan and forward a jpeg of it ,to you. I'll need your E mail address.. Wayne ACES #1556 TC # 186 - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 6:22 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Larry Yep I know, but I think its only the rear spring pads being different !?!? I have a drawing of a 1968 frame with measurements, so I could really need one of a 1964 frame to compare them. Do you or anyone else here have one that they could send me by mail or by fax ?? Thanks ! Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 13. september 2003 09:18 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame andre: n without looking in the books i know 68 is different than 64-67. i don't know if 4 door i will work but 64-67 frames are different than 68-72 larry
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Great Wayne !! thanks ! My mail is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: 13. september 2003 16:29 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Hi Andre. I have a drawing of a 64 Fram specs.. I canl scan and forward a jpeg of it ,to you. I'll need your E mail address.. Wayne ACES #1556 TC # 186 - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 6:22 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Larry Yep I know, but I think its only the rear spring pads being different !?!? I have a drawing of a 1968 frame with measurements, so I could really need one of a 1964 frame to compare them. Do you or anyone else here have one that they could send me by mail or by fax ?? Thanks ! Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 13. september 2003 09:18 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame andre: n without looking in the books i know 68 is different than 64-67. i don't know if 4 door i will work but 64-67 frames are different than 68-72 larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Hi Andre. I have a drawing of a 64 Fram specs.. I canl scan and forward a jpeg of it ,to you. I'll need your E mail address.. Wayne ACES #1556 TC # 186 - Original Message - From: Tigergutt To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 6:22 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame Larry Yep I know, but I think its only the rear spring pads being different !?!? I have a drawing of a 1968 frame with measurements, so I could really need one of a 1964 frame to compare them. Do you or anyone else here have one that they could send me by mail or by fax ?? Thanks ! Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: 13. september 2003 09:18To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame andre:n without looking in the books i know 68 is different than 64-67. i don't know if 4 door i will work but 64-67 frames are different than 68-72 larry
RE: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Larry Yep I know, but I think its only the rear spring pads being different !?!? I have a drawing of a 1968 frame with measurements, so I could really need one of a 1964 frame to compare them. Do you or anyone else here have one that they could send me by mail or by fax ?? Thanks ! Med Vennlig Hilsen/Kind Regards/Cordiali Saluti André Broe Jensen -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 13. september 2003 09:18 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame andre: n without looking in the books i know 68 is different than 64-67. i don't know if 4 door i will work but 64-67 frames are different than 68-72 larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
andre: n without looking in the books i know 68 is different than 64-67. i don't know if 4 door i will work but 64-67 frames are different than 68-72 larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame
Ciao everybody. Finally back after some vacation and a couple of weeks of trouble getting back on the list I think I'll be able to buy a 1964 four door chevelle frame for $150, my purpose was to shorten it four inches and install the C4 front and rear suspension I have laying around. Well bla bla bla, the main question is: are the only differences between a 1964 four door and a 1968 two door frame the four inches more wheelbase and that the rear spring-pads are different ??? ciao André > the motor sits so far back in the early Impalas, it would be damn near impossible to > get a lift tab on the back side of the engine... > > Dan McIntosh > Pavement Scraping 1964 Impala SS > http://www.lowriderimpala.com > > - Original Message - > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 8:04 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] intake mounted engine lift device > > > In a message dated 9/11/2003 1:28:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] > writes: > > > I have been told its a no-no if you have a vortex intake, only 8 bolts. > I always use the acc bolts in the heads, or the lifting tabs that come on the > new crate motors. > > > > Good point about the lifting tabs. > Seems like they were just leaving them on from the factory for quite a while. > Should be easy to find on a junkyard engine. > > Pete Geurds > 64 Malibu SS > 64 Malibu 4 door > 64 Chevelle 2 dr wagon >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
I would think that a frame would get changed before a vin plate, but who knows?? Dan McIntoshPavement Scraping 1964 Impala SShttp://www.lowriderimpala.com - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial # Thanks, that's what I thought. Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU- Original Message - From: "rocky hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 7:33 PMSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #> Rich,> Yes it should match the VIN, all VIN numbers should be> the same on the car.> > Rocky> > > => A Man And His Chevelle,> It's A Beautiful Thing!!> > Mid America Chevelle Club #220> Team Chevelle #1530> MY66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss> > __> Do you Yahoo!?> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com> > ___> Chevelle-list mailing list> [EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
Thanks, that's what I thought. Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU - Original Message - From: "rocky hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 7:33 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial # > Rich, > Yes it should match the VIN, all VIN numbers should be > the same on the car. > > Rocky > > > = > A Man And His Chevelle, > It's A Beautiful Thing!! > > Mid America Chevelle Club #220 > Team Chevelle #1530 > MY66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > ___ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
No it doesn't. I thought it was supposed to be the same # as the vin. The vin plate may have been changed. Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU - Original Message - From: Kent Lewis To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial # Rich, Are you saying that it does not match the last 8 digits of your VIN# ? Kent '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102 - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:14 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial # Can anyone tell me what this serial # tells me? It's from the rear of my frame. 6K100914. Shouldn't it match the VIN? Thanks Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
Rich, Yes it should match the VIN, all VIN numbers should be the same on the car. Rocky = A Man And His Chevelle, It's A Beautiful Thing!! Mid America Chevelle Club #220 Team Chevelle #1530 MY66SS http://www.geocities.com/rocks66ss __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
Rich, Are you saying that it does not match the last 8 digits of your VIN# ? Kent '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102 - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 10:14 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Frame serial # Can anyone tell me what this serial # tells me? It's from the rear of my frame. 6K100914. Shouldn't it match the VIN? Thanks Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU ___Chevelle-list mailing list[EMAIL PROTECTED]http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] Frame serial #
Can anyone tell me what this serial # tells me? It's from the rear of my frame. 6K100914. Shouldn't it match the VIN? Thanks Rich ACES #05066 1966 MALIBU ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame question
In a message dated 6/7/2003 8:50:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Are 68-72 Elcamino frames excusive to Elcamino and wagons? Is there any difference? Kind Regards, JDHall Yes, They are 4 inches longer than the standard Chevelle frame. El Camino frames are also stronger since they are boxed. Tom
[Chevelle-List] Frame question
Are 68-72 Elcamino frames excusive to Elcamino and wagons? Is there any difference? Kind Regards, JDHall - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] frame vin location
Can someone tell me the location of the frame vin number? I think its on top somewhere near the rear however I'm not sure exactly what spot. I want to get a picture of it while my frame and body are in the mist of a divorce. Hopefully they can reconcile there differences and someday be remarried in matrimonial bliss! 8) Kind Regards, JD Hall - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location
The rail behind the spring bucket? I would like to see that picture when you gat the chance. Thank! JD Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 7:31 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location In a message dated 6/6/2003 1:15:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And the body has to be off the frame to see it? -Dave Dave,Yep, there is just not enough clearance to see it up there even with a small mirror. I have a picture that I can send to ya off list.Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
At 12:24 PM 06/05/2003 -0500, you wrote: Steve, The 5 or 6 cans that I have used weren't thick on the bottom. That is true on the black, the silver is a different story, por tells you that. They were actually quite consistent throughout. Also you can invert the can 5-10 times before your punch your hole to pour some out. Mixes it up fine without forming air bubbles. That is true also. You do have to use their thinner to spray but I use very little. There is heavy overspray and it sticks like epoxy. Next to impossible to clean later so drape everything. Absolutely use a good respirator. Yes you can use a regular gun. Never tried it with HVLP. Cleanup with lacquer thinner. Yes, also true, run lots thru your gun, if you don't it will never spray again, use the cheap hardware store lacquer thinner for that. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location
In a message dated 6/6/2003 1:15:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And the body has to be off the frame to see it? -Dave Dave, Yep, there is just not enough clearance to see it up there even with a small mirror. I have a picture that I can send to ya off list. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
Steve, The 5 or 6 cans that I have used weren't thick on the bottom. They were actually quite consistent throughout. Also you can invert the can 5-10 times before your punch your hole to pour some out. Mixes it up fine without forming air bubbles. You do have to use their thinner to spray but I use very little. There is heavy overspray and it sticks like epoxy. Next to impossible to clean later so drape everything. Absolutely use a good respirator. Yes you can use a regular gun. Never tried it with HVLP. Cleanup with lacquer thinner. Trooper - Original Message - From: "Cecil "Steve" Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 10:26 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame > I used a brush on mine. Came out even and shiny, no brush strokes. No over > spray mess but a few drops on the floor. I wore gloves Stuff gets on your > skin and it has to wear off in a matter of days unless you get it off while > it's still wet. Hand cleaner or thinner while wet is the only way. > > It's just hard to get into some of the enclosed areas of the frame. I > sprayed anti-rust spray can stuff the best I could in the access holes. > > One more thing, that stuff is s thick at the bottom I don't know how > someone can get it all mixed up without opening the can and stirring it. > Cover it with saran wrap afterwards before putting the lid on ...you won't > get them separated if you don't ..after you get as much of the stuff out of > the lid valley as you can. > > Have a small cup or several small paper cups to pour it in and several small > brushes. Smaller is better in this case. > > I put the POR-15 overcoat paint over the POR-15 anti-rust product. I wish > that paint was as shiny as the anti-rust product! Man that stuff looked > good. Too bad it won't hold up in UV light. > > Steve > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 10:39 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame > > > Hey There, > >Question, How do you spray that stuff. How do you mix the thinner or > reducer in. I thought you could only brush it on? Can you spray it from a > regular gun? > > Thanks > > David > Memphis, TN > 67 Chevelle > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location
And the body has to be off the frame to see it? -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 12:21 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location In a message dated 6/5/2003 8:56:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Can someone tell me the location of the frame vin number? I think its on top somewhere near the rear however I'm not sure exactly what spot. I want to get a picture of it while my frame and body are in the mist of a divorce. Hopefully they can reconcile there differences and someday be remarried in matrimonial bliss! 8) Kind Regards, JD Hall On the passenger side rear frame rail. It is stamped on top. The whole VIN will not be there, only the last 6 digits are there (the production sequence number). Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] frame vin location
In a message dated 6/5/2003 8:56:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Can someone tell me the location of the frame vin number? I think its on top somewhere near the rear however I'm not sure exactly what spot. I want to get a picture of it while my frame and body are in the mist of a divorce. Hopefully they can reconcile there differences and someday be remarried in matrimonial bliss! 8) Kind Regards, JD Hall On the passenger side rear frame rail. It is stamped on top. The whole VIN will not be there, only the last 6 digits are there (the production sequence number). Tom
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
they also sell a product called "Metal Ready".. spray it on, leave it a few minutes, and then hose it off well. Leaves a nice zinc coating behind for the POR 15 to adhere to... Dan McIntoshBagged 64 Impala SShttp://www.alloldchevy.com - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: Chevelle List Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 10:41 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Frame Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll go with the POR. RichACES # 05066
[Chevelle-List] Frame
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll go with the POR. RichACES # 05066
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
The frame is being sand blasted. The metal will be clean. RichACES # 05066 - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame I've used por-15 on a multitude of things, and I love the stuff... it goes a long way, just be sure not to pour out too much at one time, as it thickens fairly fast... also, do not dip the brush directly into the container... it will contaminate the rest of the por-15 and render it useless... you will be amazed how far a quart will go if used properly... just remember... it is not UV protective, so if you use it where sunlight will find its way, make sure to topcoat it with some Chassis black... what condition is your frame in currently?/ Dan McIntoshBagged 64 Impala SShttp://www.alloldchevy.com - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: Chevelle List Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 12:02 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Frame I'm about ready to paint my frame. Has anyone used POR15? Did you like it? How many quarts did it take to paint it? Any other suggestions? Thanks RichACES # 05066
RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame
Don't forget to wear a respirator. POR-15 contains cyanide and can kill you. It also sticks really well inside your lungs and never leaves. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 9:47 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame David.. A Gallon.. that goes a LG way and as far as I know there thinner is specific to there product.. The Thinner comes in Quart Size.. So IMO to do your frame and other related parts.. two quarts of Por-15 and one thinner should be enough.. Wayne... PS as stated by others,, you can brushing it on ,, it flows out nice and smooth. just another option...
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
David.. A Gallon.. that goes a LG way and as far as I know there thinner is specific to there product.. The Thinner comes in Quart Size.. So IMO to do your frame and other related parts.. two quarts of Por-15 and one thinner should be enough.. Wayne... PS as stated by others,, you can brushing it on ,, it flows out nice and smooth. just another option... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 11:02 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame Wayne, So If I buy a gallon of por-15 I have to get their thinner? Thanks David
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
At 08:46 PM 06/03/2003 -0500, you wrote: Dan and Rich, A trick I learned from the POR15 guy. Don't open the can of POR15. Turn it upside down and punch a small hole in the bottom edge with an awl. Squeeze out what you need and seal the hole with RTV sealer. I have a can I have about 10 holes in that I have used for little jobs. It has been over 3 years since the first hole and the POR15 is the exact consistency as the first day. Trooper I put two holes in the top & screw metal screws into them about half way, turn it over for a few seconds (to seal the screws). Anytime I need some I just unscrew the screws & pour what I need. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
Rich, I'm at the same stage as you are on my 72 chevelle. I'm just sandblasting and wire wheeling everything then POR15. I haven't finished yet but 1 quart should do it. Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.wideopenwest.com/~dbelt/ - Original Message - From: RMilkiewicz To: Chevelle List Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 11:02 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Frame I'm about ready to paint my frame. Has anyone used POR15? Did you like it? How many quarts did it take to paint it? Any other suggestions? Thanks RichACES # 05066
RE: [Chevelle-List] Frame
I used a brush on mine. Came out even and shiny, no brush strokes. No over spray mess but a few drops on the floor. I wore gloves Stuff gets on your skin and it has to wear off in a matter of days unless you get it off while it's still wet. Hand cleaner or thinner while wet is the only way. It's just hard to get into some of the enclosed areas of the frame. I sprayed anti-rust spray can stuff the best I could in the access holes. One more thing, that stuff is s thick at the bottom I don't know how someone can get it all mixed up without opening the can and stirring it. Cover it with saran wrap afterwards before putting the lid on ...you won't get them separated if you don't ..after you get as much of the stuff out of the lid valley as you can. Have a small cup or several small paper cups to pour it in and several small brushes. Smaller is better in this case. I put the POR-15 overcoat paint over the POR-15 anti-rust product. I wish that paint was as shiny as the anti-rust product! Man that stuff looked good. Too bad it won't hold up in UV light. Steve -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 10:39 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] FrameHey There, Question, How do you spray that stuff. How do you mix the thinner or reducer in. I thought you could only brush it on? Can you spray it from a regular gun? Thanks David Memphis, TN 67 Chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
Wayne, So If I buy a gallon of por-15 I have to get their thinner? Thanks David
Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame
POR 15 has it's own thinner .. remember it BAD stuff make sure you use a GOOD paint respirator and cover everything,, the overspray is heavy and gets every where, BTDT... Wayne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 10:38 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Frame Hey There, Question, How do you spray that stuff. How do you mix the thinner or reducer in. I thought you could only brush it on? Can you spray it from a regular gun? Thanks David Memphis, TN 67 Chevelle
