Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Maybe.  What are Polars?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Does anyone have a set of 37+ polars they want to share?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 +
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... - MotionComfort?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

One thing to consider is the motion comfort - bigger heavier boats aren’t 
bounced around as much as beamy light ones.  The best description of Ted 
Brewers Motion Comfort Number I’ve seen is at 
http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/281-crunching-numbers-brewer-comfort-ratio

Course I’m biased, we are on a 35-II which is an anomy in even the C&C lineup, 
with a long narrow waterline.  I was once delivering a Catalina 350, quartering 
1-2’ wave slaps were bouncing & juddering the boat from the aft quarter, and I 
thought I must have snagged something, which was beating the hull up!  Once I 
went dead down wind, lining up with the waves it was quiet and stable.  

Hope that helps, Lee



On Sep 28, 2015, at 2:27 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> The chart maps stiffness as heel from 1 pounds per square inch on the sails. 
> The three Landfalls,
> LF 42 - LF 43 - LF 38, have a sail area / displacement rating of around 15. 
> The 30-1 is 18.4, and
> the 41 is 19.35.  The Landfalls are stiffer due to less sail area, the 41 due 
> to a deep keel.
> 
> I have wondered if normalizing back to a common SA / Disp would be a more 
> useful comparison.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
>  
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:12:55 -0500 
> From: "Dennis C."  
> To: CnClist  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
> Message-ID: 
>  
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
> 
> Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The 
> diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct 
> link is: 
> 
> . 
> 
> To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1 
> gets it. 
> 
> Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given 
> at: 
> 
>  
> 
> Dennis C. 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> > Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows 
> > the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty 
> > useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself. 
> > 
> > Gary 
> > 30-1 #593 
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> > *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> > *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe  
> > *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM 
> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
> > 
> > The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made. 
> > 
> > Joe 
> > 
> > Coquina 
> > 
> > C&C 35 MK I 
> > 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Rob

Yes , it is a 2 person job ! My raw water strainer is readily accessible via 
the Starboard sail locker. It’s a big sail locker, and the strainer is easy to 
reach.

I normally do a bunch of winterizing stuff at the end of the season, like 
getting the sails off, winterizing the fresh water system, changing filters, 
changing oil, removing mast head instruments, cleaning out bilges, removing 
floor boards, etc. so I usually have someone (maybe 2 crew) available to 
assist. 

I would definitely not  do most of this winterizing by my self any way.



Don Wagner
Der Baron
C&C 41
West River MD


From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

Don:

I have witnessed your 'in water' engine winterizing process under taken 'on the 
hard'..on the hard, as I observed, it is a two person job.one down 
below doing the pouring and one in the cockpit on the engine.

Is it a two person task when you do it?   If one person, how do you manage that?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2015-09-28 6:19 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List wrote:

  I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.

  If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
  then: Shut engine off.
  Close inlet seacock.
  Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
  Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
  Use a funnel if necessary.
  When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
  Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
  This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
  with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.

  Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.

  Winterizing the water tanks is another story.

  Don Wagner 
  C&C 41 CB
  Der Baron
  West River MD
  I

  From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
  To: CnC CnC discussion list 
  Cc: David Knecht 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

  My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave 

  Aries
  1990 C&C 34+
  New London, CT

   

On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers, 

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, 
I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[robert via CnC-List]

My raw water strainer is in my engine compartment on the starboard 
side.I can reach it from in front of the engine with my left hand, 
but just barely ...it would be impossible for me to pour antifreeze 
into the strainer bowl let alone start and stop the engine.


The bucket in the cockpit with a hose from it to the raw water pump is a 
simple thing to hook up...Graham is more careful than I am with the 
bucket on the cabin sole..if the bucket overflows in the cockpit, I 
don't mind..actually if the bucket overflows on the cabin sole, no 
big deal as well...the water just goes to the bilge.   Nevertheless, I 
am more comfortable with a hose in the cockpit that in the main cabin.


No matter what system I might devise to pour antifreeze into the raw 
water strainer (one or two person(s) job , it could not be simpler than 
the bucket in the cockpit with a hose from it to the water pump.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-09-28 9:56 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Hi John
For some of us the idea of doing contortions to be able to pour 
antifreeze into my raw water strainer...  I'll go with other 
solutions.   My back hurts thinking about that.  My strainer is not 
easily accessible.


My solution is similar to Rob's, but I just use a couple of feet of 
hose and the bucket sits on the cabin sole just forward of the 
engine.  I will run it while keeping the bucket filled by hose, until 
I decide the engine has warmed up (or I lose interest, whichever comes 
first).  I let the bucket drain and when it is pretty much empty I 
start dumping the antifreeze in.  Works for me.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-09-28 9:42 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the 
engine raw water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons 
of antifreeze in through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it 
comes out pink at the exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the 
raw water intake and let whatever remains in the intake hose drain. 
 Is this a purely an in-water issue?


John

On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


David:

I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of 
the raw water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon 
bucket in the cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the 
bucket...flush the engine of salt water with fresh water .heat 
the engine up.stop engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket 
with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 
50% mixture) .run until antifreeze exists transom.has worked 
that way for me for 10 years now.   Pretty simple.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax. N.S.


On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware 
store that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water 
intake.  I got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug 
one end into the intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze 
on deck.I then start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to 
be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  It 
takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming 
that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the 
heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw 
water intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine 
easier — as things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, 
unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area.


Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did 
you use?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Gary,

I can get that to you tomorrow if nobody sends it sooner. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:44 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Does anyone have a set of 37+ polars they want to share?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 +
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Patrick,



I concur with your degree of failure chart with the added "bad" comment of 
balsa that has rotted to black goo that smells of swamp and acidic polyester.



I do have pictures but they are not posted online nor organized well.  That 
organizational project will be waiting until Calypso is sailing again.  PM me a 
email address and I will send a few next week (I'm currently out on the WA 
coast with the Mrs. and our dog for some R&R).



If the failed core around the deck fills was shallow enough you could dig it 
out to firm balsa and refill with epoxy of other repair materials I would call 
that good to go unless it was in a highly stressed area.  In several areas I 
dug out failed balsa back to firm core that was stained darker than new balsa.  
Once dried it tested well for structural integrity.  The use of light hammer 
taps is my favorite way to confirm the extent of damage.



I did find some filler used by Bruckmann's that was orange to brown in color.  
I refer to this low tech polyester based filler as "bog".  Much of the bog on 
Calypso that has seen stress or water intrusion has fractured.  If your deck 
fills are close to where the deck balsa ends and  the glass tapers back to 
solid (for the hull to deck joint) the C&C factory may have added a filler.



If the boat is not headed into extreme conditions, hard racing, or way offshore 
a little wet of mildly damaged balsa in low stress areas should not interfere 
with a sailing season.  Light repairs and preventing further damage, especially 
re-bedding leaking hardware, in my opinion, is a better investment of limited 
repair time and resources.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

Since we're on the topic of balsa core decay, I had a question about this - 
having just finished resealing all the deck fill ports (diesel, waste, 3 
waters) on my boat.

All had some softness in the balsa, two had obvious water ingress (in the past) 
evident by black staining, minor rust on fasteners (bolts/screws), etc.

Question is how do you judge the *degree* of coring decay?

Mild = ? (still wood colored, but squishy/soft?)
Moderate = ? (dark staining and squishy/soft?)
Bad = same as above but covering more than a 1 to 2 inch section?
Severe = ?

Purchase survey 7 months ago found no wet core issues via sounding, but did 
cite leaking fill ports so the need to rebed was known.

Oddly one fill port (diesel) had what appeared to be dark brownish foam coring 
instead of wood, on only one side of the port (outboard, towards the toe rail). 
Maybe a prior owner injected it?

Given I think what I found would fall under "mild to moderate", and percussive 
sounding found no issues further from the fills, I think the core decay is 
limited to just the immediate vicinity of the ports (water entry was probably 
through the fastener holes), and since the wood didn't feel presently wet or 
saturated, it was either a past leak or it's a very slow leak. I rebedded with 
butyl tape.

Martin do you happen to have any pictures of your core? I assume you had some 
that would be good examples of more severe core decay?

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
1984 LF 38, Seattle, WA


-- Forwarded message --
From: Martin DeYoung mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:30:21 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 ...

When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of the 
balsa before fully charting your course.

If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still looks 
tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to make small 
repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go this route, be 
aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of balsa using only the 
fastener holes.

Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info 
learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi John- The way I do it, it is a one person job and I am on deck for the whole 
job. No  running back and forth between the cabin and the transom.  That way, I 
can keep an eye on the bucket and the color of what is coming out the back at 
the same time.  Dave

On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:42 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
wrote:

> What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the engine raw 
> water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons of antifreeze in 
> through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it comes out pink at the 
> exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the raw water intake and let 
> whatever remains in the intake hose drain.  Is this a purely an in-water 
> issue?
> 
> John
> 
>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> David:
>> 
>> I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of the raw 
>> water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon bucket in the 
>> cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the bucket...flush the engine 
>> of salt water with fresh water .heat the engine up.stop 
>> engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 
>> gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 50% mixture) .run until antifreeze 
>> exists transom.has worked that way for me for 10 years now.   Pretty 
>> simple.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 -84
>> Halifax. N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>>> My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that 
>>> fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 
>>> 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the 
>>> other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and 
>>> wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on 
>>> the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am 
>>> presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the 
>>> heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
>>> 
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
 I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water 
 intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things 
 stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and 
 pull on the hose in a tight little area. 
 
 Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> 
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Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Fair enough - just wanted to make sureI wasn’t being stupid again!

John

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:56 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi John
> For some of us the idea of doing contortions to be able to pour antifreeze 
> into my raw water strainer...  I'll go with other solutions.   My back hurts 
> thinking about that.  My strainer is not easily accessible.
> 
> My solution is similar to Rob's, but I just use a couple of feet of hose and 
> the bucket sits on the cabin sole just forward of the engine.  I will run it 
> while keeping the bucket filled by hose, until I decide the engine has warmed 
> up (or I lose interest, whichever comes first).  I let the bucket drain and 
> when it is pretty much empty I start dumping the antifreeze in.  Works for me.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2015-09-28 9:42 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
>> What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the engine raw 
>> water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons of antifreeze in 
>> through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it comes out pink at the 
>> exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the raw water intake and let 
>> whatever remains in the intake hose drain.  Is this a purely an in-water 
>> issue?
>> 
>> John
>> 
>>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> David:
>>> 
>>> I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of the 
>>> raw water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon bucket in the 
>>> cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the bucket...flush the engine 
>>> of salt water with fresh water .heat the engine up.stop 
>>> engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze 
>>> (1 gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 50% mixture) .run until 
>>> antifreeze exists transom.has worked that way for me for 10 years now.  
>>>  Pretty simple.
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 -84
>>> Halifax. N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
 My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that 
 fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 
 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and 
 the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine 
 and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit 
 port on the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction 
 starts.  I am presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water 
 flow through the heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
 
 Aries
 1990 C&C 34+
 New London, CT
 
 
 
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water 
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as 
> things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose 
> clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area. 
> 
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
>  
> 
>   
> 
>   
> 
>   
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi John
For some of us the idea of doing contortions to be able to pour 
antifreeze into my raw water strainer...  I'll go with other 
solutions.   My back hurts thinking about that.  My strainer is not 
easily accessible.


My solution is similar to Rob's, but I just use a couple of feet of hose 
and the bucket sits on the cabin sole just forward of the engine.  I 
will run it while keeping the bucket filled by hose, until I decide the 
engine has warmed up (or I lose interest, whichever comes first).  I let 
the bucket drain and when it is pretty much empty I start dumping the 
antifreeze in.  Works for me.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-28 9:42 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the 
engine raw water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons 
of antifreeze in through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it 
comes out pink at the exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the 
raw water intake and let whatever remains in the intake hose drain. 
 Is this a purely an in-water issue?


John

On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


David:

I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of 
the raw water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon 
bucket in the cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the 
bucket...flush the engine of salt water with fresh water .heat 
the engine up.stop engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket 
with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 
50% mixture) .run until antifreeze exists transom.has worked 
that way for me for 10 years now.   Pretty simple.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax. N.S.


On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store 
that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I 
got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into 
the intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I 
then start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked 
through and come out the exit port on the transom.  It takes 
surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat 
exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw 
water intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine 
easier — as things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, 
unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area.


Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you 
use?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a set of 37+ polars they want to share?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 +
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the engine raw 
water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons of antifreeze in 
through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it comes out pink at the 
exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the raw water intake and let 
whatever remains in the intake hose drain.  Is this a purely an in-water issue?

John

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David:
> 
> I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of the raw 
> water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit 
> with a running fresh water hose into the bucket...flush the engine of salt 
> water with fresh water .heat the engine up.stop engine.empty 
> bucket.then fill bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 
> 1 gal water 50% - 50% mixture) .run until antifreeze exists 
> transom.has worked that way for me for 10 years now.   Pretty simple.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax. N.S.
> 
> 
> On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that 
>> fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 
>> 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the 
>> other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and 
>> wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on 
>> the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am 
>> presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the 
>> heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers,
>>> 
>>> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
>>> to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand 
>>> now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on 
>>> the hose in a tight little area. 
>>> 
>>> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>   
>>> 
>>>   
>>> 
>>>   
>>> 
>>>   
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Is it called a Yacht Thruster? I was talking to a cruiser on my docks who had 
installed one on his Crealock 37. He seemed pleased. I thought it sort of 
pricey, but I suppose it is still a lot less expensive then a tube across the 
hull under the v berth. He didn’t say anything about a speed penalty, but then 
he is a cruiser and the boat is a Pacific Seacraft 37.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 9:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

 

Listers,

 

Was at the Norwalk Boat Show yesterday and there was a bow thruster company 
there which had a product that looked interesting. It was a bow thruster "pod" 
that mounts under the hull (as opposed to a tunnel thruster that goes through 
the hull). 

 

Easier install, can run 5 minutes nonstop without overheating, wireless 
control, etc. 

 

Is anyone using one of these types? Any disadvantages? I guess my biggest 
concern is the drag factor -- will it cost me a half knot or more? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of the 
raw water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon bucket in 
the cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the bucket...flush the 
engine of salt water with fresh water .heat the engine up.stop 
engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket with 2 gallons of 
antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 50% mixture) .run 
until antifreeze exists transom.has worked that way for me for 10 
years now.   Pretty simple.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax. N.S.


On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store 
that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I 
got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the 
intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then 
start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and 
come out the exit port on the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, 
before the suction starts.  I am presuming that means the thermostat 
controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, not the closed 
loop antifreeze flow?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water 
intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as 
things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose 
clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area.


Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[robert via CnC-List]

Don:

I have witnessed your 'in water' engine winterizing process under taken 
'on the hard'..on the hard, as I observed, it is a two person 
job.one down below doing the pouring and one in the cockpit on the 
engine.


Is it a two person task when you do it?   If one person, how do you 
manage that?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-09-28 6:19 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List wrote:

I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.
If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
then: Shut engine off.
Close inlet seacock.
Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
Use a funnel if necessary.
When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.
Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.
Winterizing the water tanks is another story.
Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD
I
*From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
*To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
*Cc:* David Knecht 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store 
that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I 
got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the 
intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then 
start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and 
come out the exit port on the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, 
before the suction starts.  I am presuming that means the thermostat 
controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, not the closed 
loop antifreeze flow?  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,
I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water 
intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as 
things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose 
clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area.

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?

All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

OK, I had to look up the word ”luddite”. I don’t think anyone is arguing the 
use of machinery here.  It’s a cost/complexity/benefit issue.  Never 
underestimate the impact of complexity.  I’d go on my rant about steering 
systems here but that’s a whole other subject.

John


> 
>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
>> eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
>> physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of 
>> sailors who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Ed:
>>> 
>>> I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy 
>>> when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can say I 
>>> never missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would 
>>> expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I 
>>> just don’t see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds 
>>> strange, but my experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is 
>>> to get into. There just isn’t as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has 
>>> been the rare occasion where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving 
>>> a dock it serves no purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the 
>>> complexity of the systems, to say nothing of the cost, just isn’t 
>>> justified.  I
>>> 
>>> My opinion would be just say no…
>>> 
>>> Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
>>> want to.
>>> 
>>> John
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[svpegasus38]

Patrick, I just want to be able to flush out the salt water for the winter. 
Maybe cut down on corrosion. It's not high on the list. It's the mechanic in 
me, a sickness. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Mon, Sep 
28, 2015 13:11To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
I thought most people in the PNW don't winterize. Doug, I'm curious why is it 
on your list? (especially with a heater going inside it seems unlikely anything 
would freeze) Our winter water temp is around 45F, and air temp rarely goes 
below 32F.
-PatrickS/V Violet HourLF 38, Seattle, WA
On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 9:49 AM,   wrote:
-- Forwarded message --
From: Douglas Mountjoy 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: 
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:20:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
Edd, 
This is on the list for Pegasus. I am looking at installing one of these. Looks 
like it will work with a minimum of fuss.
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/groco-safety-seacock-engine-flush-kits-ssc-series

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Ballard, WA

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus 
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA



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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Now if you could add to the existing diverter in that system and also use the 
high pressure pump as a water maker….

Oh never mind, ran out of batteries.

John

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 12:16 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That system is a great idea, but I think that many of us would prefer to 
> build our own if choosing that sort of system. 
> They charge over 4k Euros (6k C$) for the cheapest kit. 
> Pretty sure I could source what I would need to construct something 
> functional for less money than what they charge. 
> With that said, and if you had to pay for a tunnel installation, it is price 
> competitive with some of the other systems available. 
> I just think that it should sell for less. 
>  
> Steve Thomas
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 10:19
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters
>> 
>> Sure – if someone wants one, or even two, go for it. I just find every C&C I 
>> have had to dock or undock so far to be about the easiest single engine 
>> boats to handle. I get and out of my slip single-handed with little effort.
>> If you do have to have one, this looks nice: 
>> http://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster 
>>  You could make it double as 
>> an emergency bilge pump and have fun squirting bystanders.
>>  
>> Joe 
>> Coquina
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
>> G Street via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:37 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Frederick G Street
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters
>>  
>> Edd just wants to be able to call out, “Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
>> leave Spacedock”…   :^)
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>  
>>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>  
>>> Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
>>> eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
>>> physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of 
>>> sailors who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 
>>> 
>>> Bill Bina
>>> 
>>> On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
 Ed:
  
 I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy 
 when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can say I 
 never missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you 
 would expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  
 Nevertheless,I just don’t see the need and I sail in the same area as you. 
  It sounds strange, but my experience has been the tighter the slip the 
 easier it is to get into. There just isn’t as much room to screw up!  Yes, 
 there has been the rare occasion where it would have been helpful coming 
 in.  Leaving a dock it serves no purpose as god invented spring lines.  To 
 me, the complexity of the systems, to say nothing of the cost, just isn’t 
 justified.  I
  
 My opinion would be just say no…
  
 Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
 want to.
  
 John
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Since we're on the topic of balsa core decay, I had a question about this -
having just finished resealing all the deck fill ports (diesel, waste, 3
waters) on my boat.

All had some softness in the balsa, two had obvious water ingress (in the
past) evident by black staining, minor rust on fasteners (bolts/screws),
etc.

Question is how do you judge the *degree* of coring decay?

Mild = ? (still wood colored, but squishy/soft?)
Moderate = ? (dark staining and squishy/soft?)
Bad = same as above but covering more than a 1 to 2 inch section?
Severe = ?

Purchase survey 7 months ago found no wet core issues via sounding, but did
cite leaking fill ports so the need to rebed was known.

Oddly one fill port (diesel) had what appeared to be dark brownish foam
coring instead of wood, on only one side of the port (outboard, towards the
toe rail). Maybe a prior owner injected it?

Given I think what I found would fall under "mild to moderate", and
percussive sounding found no issues further from the fills, I think the
core decay is limited to just the immediate vicinity of the ports (water
entry was probably through the fastener holes), and since the wood didn't
feel presently wet or saturated, it was either a past leak or it's a very
slow leak. I rebedded with butyl tape.

Martin do you happen to have any pictures of your core? I assume you had
some that would be good examples of more severe core decay?

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
1984 LF 38, Seattle, WA



> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:30:21 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>  ...
>
> When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of
> the balsa before fully charting your course.
>
> If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still
> looks tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to
> make small repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go
> this route, be aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of
> balsa using only the fastener holes.
>
> Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info
> learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.
>
Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Not quite by itself; the Landfall 38 is right in there, too, as I recall (along 
with the LF42, 43 and the 41): http://cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows the 
> relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty useful in 
> this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1 #593

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Re: Stus-List Rcoendations

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

The 30 MKI is a beast.  I owned one and loved it. They can be had in
reasonable shape for less than 10K nowadays.

For a day sailor/ weekend cruiser, Invest in a good reef-able genny on a
reliable roller furled/reefer and a cruising spinnaker.

You will probably never need to reef the main. she sails great on headsail
alone.

They are designed to be races with a full inventory of headsails (up to
170+) so keep in mind the main is very skinny.

The rail just goes deeper as you plow along at hull speed.

I miss that boat.

Rob Gallagher
30MKII  Hanuman
Noank, Ct
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Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Bruce via CnC-List]

I'd echo the recommendation to *not* use expandable foam in a core
repair.  The characteristics of the material may seem similar to
end-grain balsa but crush resistance is very different, and additionally
it is difficult to get thicknesses, densities and full-surface bonding
"right".

As an alternative to balsa, there are a bunch of synthetic core
materials out there (klegecell, divinycell, etc).  I don't know if there
are downsides to using a synthetic material in an otherwise balsa-cored
deck, but I do know that the engineered core materials are [generally]
easier to form around complex curves (including thermo-forming and
vacuum-bagging) and [generally] don't create so many voids that need to
be filled when shaped that way.

ymmv

Bruce

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

The chart maps stiffness as heel from 1 pounds per square inch on the sails. 
The three Landfalls,
LF 42 - LF 43 - LF 38, have a sail area / displacement rating of around 15. The 
30-1 is 18.4, and
the 41 is 19.35.  The Landfalls are stiffer due to less sail area, the 41 due 
to a deep keel.

I have wondered if normalizing back to a common SA / Disp would be a more 
useful comparison.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



 
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:12:55 -0500 
From: "Dennis C."  
To: CnClist  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
Message-ID: 
      
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The 
diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct 
link is: 
 
 . 
 
To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1 
gets it. 
 
Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given 
at: 
 
 
 
Dennis C. 
 
On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
 
> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows 
> the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty 
> useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself. 
> 
> Gary 
> 30-1 #593 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe  
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
> 
> The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made. 
> 
> Joe 
> 
> Coquina 
> 
> C&C 35 MK I 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.

If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
then: Shut engine off.
Close inlet seacock.
Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
Use a funnel if necessary.
When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.

Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.

Winterizing the water tanks is another story.

Don Wagner 
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD
I

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 

  On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Listers, 

  I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, 
I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

  Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


  All the best,

  Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Where does the Northeast 39 fit into that chart?
I thought by the numbers it was pretty stiff, too. Just curious...

Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 4:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The 
> diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct link 
> is:
> 
>  .
> 
> To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1 gets 
> it.
> 
> Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given at:  
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows 
>> the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty 
>> useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
>>  
>> Gary
>> 30-1 #593
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>> 
>> The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made.
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C&C 35 MK I
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
>> Stratton via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:50 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Burt Stratton
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have a 74’ 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same hull 
>> and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She draws 
>> 6’6” and the MK-1 is listed at 5’6”.  Layout is different but I don’t think 
>> that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff and 
>> stable ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from Buzzards 
>> Bay. She handles 20kts easily…gusts, too - even close hauled and points 
>> extremely well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like that 
>> would also probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1 just 
>> for the far more comfortable layout and headroom forward.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Burt
>> 
>> On the hard in Walpole, MA
>> 
>> Waiting for paint and other projects
>> 
>> Hoping for a spring launch
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
>> To: CNC CNC
>> Cc: David
>> Subject: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out 
>> of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting 
>> from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.   
>> 
>> Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing 
>> machine, need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if 
>> my memory is correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size 
>> range (33?) which are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the 
>> area.  
>> 
>> So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be appropriate?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>> 
>> There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II" that's been for 
>> sale for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely outfitted for 
>> cruising. Any connection?
>> 
>> Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique anyway.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Steve
>> 
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> 
>> Toronto
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand. 
>> The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called 
>> Vatican.
>> 
>> Andy
>> 
>> C&C 40
>> 
>> Peregrine
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying 
>> Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries 
>> that name.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk 
>> about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a 
>> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to 
>> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like 
>> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded 
>> them of home.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple eno

Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

On the East coast Jamestown Distributors sells it.  If you join their
"club" you may get free shipping.

Joel

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 4:30 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have use Merton's and Fiberglass Supply for online or phone purchases of
> balsa and related repair supplies.  Fiberglass Supply is located in
> Burlington WA and has an extensive web site with great descriptions of the
> materials.  If you purchase larger volumes of balsa or other bulky
> materials the online shipping calculator will give a high shipping cost
> quote.  Call by phone and ask for Jose' to manually calculate UPS charges.
> When we purchased a large quantity of vacuum bagging materials Calypso's
> co-owner drove 2 hours each way to save $180 in shipping.
>
>
>
> I do not recommend expandable foam for a structural repair.  There have
> been some very helpful discussions on the Sailing Anarchy Fixit Forum
> regarding cored deck repairs.  One of the take away points for me was to
> use similar materials when performing repairs.
>
>
>
> When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of
> the balsa before fully charting your course.
>
>
>
> If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still
> looks tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to
> make small repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go
> this route, be aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of
> balsa using only the fastener holes.
>
>
>
> Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info
> learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
> --
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Petar
> Horvatic via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 12:27 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Petar Horvatic
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
> I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area
> of port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I
> thought I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll
> wait to dig stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this,
> but it needs to be done.
>
> Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s
> Fiberglass sells it.
>
>
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> On my 1981 C&C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the
> windlass I found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood
> reinforcement about 3" wide.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally
> 1/2".  When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding
> it down a little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass
> laminations.
>
>
>
> If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able
> to verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer
> designs/builds.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
> Petar;
>
>
>
> If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *phorvati
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* phorvati . 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track
> section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2
>
> Petar
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing 

Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The assumption with your solution is that the boat is out of the water.  I
winterize in the water.  Not only that but chemical cleanings and flushings
might be desired anytime of the year.

Josh
On Sep 28, 2015 1:57 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that
> fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about
> 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the
> other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and
> wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on
> the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am
> presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the
> heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I have use Merton's and Fiberglass Supply for online or phone purchases of 
balsa and related repair supplies.  Fiberglass Supply is located in Burlington 
WA and has an extensive web site with great descriptions of the materials.  If 
you purchase larger volumes of balsa or other bulky materials the online 
shipping calculator will give a high shipping cost quote.  Call by phone and 
ask for Jose' to manually calculate UPS charges.  When we purchased a large 
quantity of vacuum bagging materials Calypso's co-owner drove 2 hours each way 
to save $180 in shipping.



I do not recommend expandable foam for a structural repair.  There have been 
some very helpful discussions on the Sailing Anarchy Fixit Forum regarding 
cored deck repairs.  One of the take away points for me was to use similar 
materials when performing repairs.



When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of the 
balsa before fully charting your course.



If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still looks 
tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to make small 
repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go this route, be 
aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of balsa using only the 
fastener holes.



Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info 
learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Petar Horvatic via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area of 
port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I thought 
I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll wait to dig 
stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this, but it needs to 
be done.
Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s Fiberglass 
sells it.


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

On my 1981 C&C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the windlass I 
found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood reinforcement 
about 3" wide.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf 
of Rick Brass via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
Petar;

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of phorvati . via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: phorvati . mailto:phorv...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2
Petar

___

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The
diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct
link is:

 .

To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1
gets it.

Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given
at:



Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows
> the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty
> useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
>
> Gary
> 30-1 #593
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
> The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Burt
> Stratton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Burt Stratton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
>
>
> I have a 74’ 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same
> hull and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She
> draws 6’6” and the MK-1 is listed at 5’6”.  Layout is different but I don’t
> think that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff
> and stable ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from
> Buzzards Bay. She handles 20kts easily…gusts, too - even close hauled and
> points extremely well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like
> that would also probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1
> just for the far more comfortable layout and headroom forward.
>
>
>
> Burt
>
> On the hard in Walpole, MA
>
> Waiting for paint and other projects
>
> Hoping for a spring launch
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *David via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
>
>
> A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail
> out of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine"
> resulting from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.
>
> Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing
> machine, need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if
> my memory is correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size
> range (33?) which are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the
> area.
>
> So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be
> appropriate?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> --
>
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>
> There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II
> "
> that's been for sale for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely
> outfitted for cruising. Any connection?
>
> Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique
> anyway.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the
> brand. The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was
> called Vatican.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold
> Flying Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still
> carries that name.
>
>
>
> My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk
> about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
> them of home.
>
>
>
> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
> amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
>
>
>
> Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
> probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
> Millions of kids watch him in cartoo

Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I thought most people in the PNW don't winterize. Doug, I'm curious why is
it on your list? (especially with a heater going inside it seems unlikely
anything would freeze)
Our winter water temp is around 45F, and air temp rarely goes below 32F.

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
LF 38, Seattle, WA

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 9:49 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Douglas Mountjoy 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:20:29 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
> Edd,
> This is on the list for Pegasus. I am looking at installing one of these.
> Looks like it will work with a minimum of fuss.
>
> http://www.fisheriessupply.com/groco-safety-seacock-engine-flush-kits-ssc-series
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Pegasus
> LF38
> Ballard, WA
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Pegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows the 
relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty useful in 
this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.

Gary
30-1 #593
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...


  The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made.

  Joe

  Coquina

  C&C 35 MK I

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:50 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Burt Stratton
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

   

  I have a 74' 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same hull 
and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She draws 
6'6" and the MK-1 is listed at 5'6".  Layout is different but I don't think 
that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff and stable 
ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from Buzzards Bay. She 
handles 20kts easily.gusts, too - even close hauled and points extremely well.  
I would recommend that boat any day. Something like that would also probably 
fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1 just for the far more 
comfortable layout and headroom forward.

   

  Burt

  On the hard in Walpole, MA

  Waiting for paint and other projects

  Hoping for a spring launch 

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
  To: CNC CNC
  Cc: David
  Subject: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

   

  A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out 
of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting 
from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.   

  Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing machine, 
need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if my memory is 
correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size range (33?) which 
are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the area.  

  So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be appropriate?

  Thanks in advance!


  David F. Risch
  1981 40-2
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)


--

  Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

  There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II" that's been for sale 
for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely outfitted for cruising. Any 
connection?

  Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique anyway.

   

  Steve

  Suhana, C&C 32

  Toronto

   

  On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand. 
The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called 
Vatican.

  Andy

  C&C 40

  Peregrine

   

  On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying 
Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries that 
name.

   

  My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk 
about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a bridge, 
marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to Mystic I 
changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like the name 
myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded them of home.

   

  So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still 
amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.

   

  Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is 
probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.  Millions 
of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early Buddhist/Hindu 
temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side of the world now and 
I guess I spent to much time in Asia.

   

  Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.  The 
owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)  Fortunately, 
I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol   It's the Khmer 
version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and 
Burma/Myanmar.

   

  Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at least 
try to, once in their life.

   

  I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale

   

  Rob

  C&C 30 MKII

  HANUMAN

  Noa

Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

If I remember correctly, C&C used 7/16" balsa in the decks of their
production boats built in NOTL and Rhode Island. However, as mentioned
previously, always wise to confirm with a core sample taken with a small
hole saw. I would not recommend using low density Polyurethane core for any
structural coring. Use either balsa or a minimum of 5 Lb. PVC.

Rob

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 3:27 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area
> of port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I
> thought I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll
> wait to dig stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this,
> but it needs to be done.
>
> Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s
> Fiberglass sells it.
>
>
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> On my 1981 C&C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the
> windlass I found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood
> reinforcement about 3" wide.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally
> 1/2".  When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding
> it down a little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass
> laminations.
>
>
>
> If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able
> to verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer
> designs/builds.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
> Petar;
>
>
>
> If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *phorvati
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* phorvati . 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track
> section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2
>
> Petar
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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page at:
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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area of 
port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I thought 
I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll wait to dig 
stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this, but it needs to 
be done.  

Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s Fiberglass 
sells it.  

   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

On my 1981 C&C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the windlass I 
found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood reinforcement 
about 3" wide.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.

 

If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle

  _  

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Petar;

 

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2

Petar


___

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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

Email address:
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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

The 30-1 has a sweet spot in the 12-15 range where one can easily make their 
phrf number if you want to race.  However, we were out in 3-5, later 5-7 last 
wednesday and were able to still move along eventually making more speed than I 
can walk normally (about 3mph).  We've held a 160% in over 15kts; with some 
feathering.  I have the shoal draft and it reaches extremely well, tacking 
through 85-90deg depending on wind strength and jib size.And it's pretty to 
look at!  Love the boat.And right now, I hate to say it but, they're pretty 
cheap.You might be able to find one with a universal diesel like I did.RonWild 
CheriSTL

  From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'"  
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  
 Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:52 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
   
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p.yiv7768117482MsoAcetate, #yiv7768117482 li.yiv7768117482MsoAcetate, 
#yiv7768117482 div.yiv7768117482MsoAcetate 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv7768117482 
span.yiv7768117482ecxhoenzb {}#yiv7768117482 span.yiv7768117482EmailStyle19 
{color:#1F497D;}#yiv7768117482 span.yiv7768117482BalloonTextChar 
{}#yiv7768117482 span.yiv7768117482EmailStyle22 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv7768117482 
.yiv7768117482MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7768117482 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv7768117482 div.yiv7768117482WordSection1 
{}#yiv7768117482 The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made. Joe 
Coquina C&C 35 MK I 
  ___

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

On my 1981 C&C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the
windlass I found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood
reinforcement about 3" wide.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally
> 1/2".  When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding
> it down a little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass
> laminations.
>
>
>
> If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able
> to verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer
> designs/builds.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
> --
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
> Petar;
>
>
>
> If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *phorvati
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* phorvati . 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track
> section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2
>
> Petar
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

I have a 74' 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same hull and 
sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She draws 6'6" 
and the MK-1 is listed at 5'6".  Layout is different but I don't think that 
would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff and stable ride 
on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from Buzzards Bay. She 
handles 20kts easily...gusts, too - even close hauled and points extremely 
well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like that would also 
probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1 just for the far 
more comfortable layout and headroom forward.

Burt
On the hard in Walpole, MA
Waiting for paint and other projects
Hoping for a spring launch

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out of 
Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting from 
the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.

Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing machine, 
need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if my memory is 
correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size range (33?) which 
are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the area.

So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be appropriate?

Thanks in advance!


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican 
II"
 that's been for sale for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely 
outfitted for cruising. Any connection?
Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique anyway.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand. 
The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called 
Vatican.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying 
Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries that 
name.

My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk about 
a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a bridge, marina, 
or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to Mystic I changed 
the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like the name myself, but 
anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded them of home.

So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still amused 
that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.

Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is 
probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.  Millions 
of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early Buddhist/Hindu 
temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side of the world now and 
I guess I spent to much time in Asia.

Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.  The 
owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)  Fortunately, 
I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol   It's the Khmer 
version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and 
Burma/Myanmar.

Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at least 
try to, once in their life.

I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale

Rob
C&C 30 MKII
HANUMAN
Noank, CT




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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have a 74' 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same hull
and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She draws
6'6" and the MK-1 is listed at 5'6".  Layout is different but I don't think
that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff and
stable ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from Buzzards
Bay. She handles 20kts easily.gusts, too - even close hauled and points
extremely well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like that
would also probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1 just
for the far more comfortable layout and headroom forward.

 

Burt

On the hard in Walpole, MA

Waiting for paint and other projects

Hoping for a spring launch 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

 

A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out
of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting
from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.   

Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing
machine, need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if
my memory is correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size
range (33?) which are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the
area.  

So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be
appropriate?

Thanks in advance!


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II
 " that's been for sale for a while. It's a centerboard
model and nicely outfitted for cruising. Any connection?

Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique
anyway.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
 wrote:

My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand.
The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called
Vatican.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List
 wrote:

My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying
Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries
that name.

 

My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk
about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
them of home.

 

So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.

 

Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
Millions of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early
Buddhist/Hindu temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side of
the world now and I guess I spent to much time in Asia.

 

Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.
The owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)
Fortunately, I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol
It's the Khmer version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia,
Laos, Thailand and Burma/Myanmar.

 

Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at least
try to, once in their life.

 

I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale

 

Rob

C&C 30 MKII

HANUMAN

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


___

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___ Email address:
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___

Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[David via CnC-List]

A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out of 
Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting from 
the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.   

Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing machine, 
need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if my memory is 
correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size range (33?) which 
are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the area.  

So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be appropriate?

Thanks in advance!


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II" that's been for sale 
for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely outfitted for cruising. Any 
connection?Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but 
unique anyway.

SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto
On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the brand. 
The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called 
Vatican.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:
My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying 
Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries that 
name.
My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk about 
a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a bridge, marina, 
or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to Mystic I changed 
the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like the name myself, but 
anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded them of home.
So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still amused 
that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is 
probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.  Millions 
of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early Buddhist/Hindu 
temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side of the world now and 
I guess I spent to much time in Asia.
Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.  The 
owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)  Fortunately, 
I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol   It's the Khmer 
version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and 
Burma/Myanmar.
Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at least 
try to, once in their life.
I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale
RobC&C 30 MKIIHANUMANNoank, CT




___



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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


___



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Stus-List Winterizing raw water intake

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Edd, I take the intake hose off and stuff a smaller hose in a couple inches and 
re-clamp it. Use electrical tape to make the outside diameter fit whatever 
small hose you have and pull antifreeze remotely. The less permanent 
connections to sea water the better for less leak potential. I use a 2 or 3 
foot piece of beverage hose and place a large antifreeze container on the 
floor. Takes 10 seconds to rig and works every time. Factor the small size of 
the opening in the antifreeze jug with whatever hose size you end up 
installing. My 2 cents: keep it simple. Save your money for racing sails. 
Len

Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
> to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand 
> now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on 
> the hose in a tight little area. 
> 
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I had something very similar on my boat (4:1 one end to the cam cleat, the 
other to the winch). I changed it to a 6:1/3:1 arrangement. No need to run it 
back to the mast. The 6:1 purchase is much better even in high winds; the 3:1 
works better when you quickly need to sheet in the main (e.g. during the gybe). 
In the process I freed one of the cabin top clutches (the vang lives there 
now). I worked with Garhauer (Guido).
A picture is here: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wuwtex47cni6397/20140830_160655.jpg?dl=0.

Garhauer would tell you that if your traveller is old, you may want to replace 
it (and they have many options to choose from (;-)). One of the problem is if 
you have a traveller like mine, where the the pull on the traveller is up front 
(as opposed to above the car), because when you pull the car, it gets twisted  
on the track creating extra friction.

Marek
1994 C270, “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:40 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

Hi Steve- I like my current arrangement.  I have a double block with cam 
mounted on the traveller.  That runs to three blocks on the boom and then 
forward to the mast and back to a clutch and winch on the cabin top.  In 
lighter winds, it can all be controlled with the cam on the traveller. In 
higher winds, the winch is used.  The double ended configuration gives me lots 
of flexibility depending on the situation.  I will send a picture off list.  
Dave 

PS- I find the traveller very hard to move in +10 knot winds.  Still haven’t 
solved the source of that problem but I don’t think it is the configuration.  I 
plan to disassemble and replace the bearings this winter and see if that helps. 
 

On Sep 26, 2015, at 11:06 PM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  All,
  I would like to improve the mainsheet / traveler set up on my 1990 34+ and 
was looking for advise on best ways to improve original factory set up.  Any 
suggestions on where to get detailed info on improvement options?

  Thank you 

  Steve
  Deja Vu
  Sent from my iPhone



Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 





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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C&C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Petar;

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2
Petar
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

The tee configuration I've put together is about 4 or 5 inches tall.  I can
send pictures later.

Josh
On Sep 28, 2015 12:49 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh,
>
> I’m not sure there’s enough clearance between the through-hull and the
> floorboard (my hose is connected to a 90-degree adapter) — so I’m looking
> for something I can place in-line. For example, this has caught my eye:
> s981022078391678967_p16_i1_w600.jpeg
> 
>
>
> What is the internal diameter of your hoses? I’m pretty sure it’s 1”, but
> if you know for sure, please share :)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have all the pieces to do something kinda similar but i chose Marlon
> (glass reinforced polypropylene).
>
> My plan is to install a tee off the through hull and then use a MIP to
> garden hose adapter and cap.  The straight through portion of the tee would
> facilitate a short hose and ram rod for clearing blockages.  Off the tee
> would be the barb fitting for the intake.  For winterizing or flushing the
> through hull would be closed and the short shot of hose attached and run to
> the antifreeze or flush chem or freshwater.  I've intended to tap off the
> boat's freshwater system and send it to the hose connection so that i can
> "flush" the engine after each use.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Sep 28, 2015 11:34 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
>> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
>> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
>> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>>
>> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

I think the hose ID is 5/8ths.  The fittings should be 1" MIP.  Is your
intake at the base of the stairs?  I have checked the clearance to the
floor board and it fits.

Josh
On Sep 28, 2015 12:49 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh,
>
> I’m not sure there’s enough clearance between the through-hull and the
> floorboard (my hose is connected to a 90-degree adapter) — so I’m looking
> for something I can place in-line. For example, this has caught my eye:
> s981022078391678967_p16_i1_w600.jpeg
> 
>
>
> What is the internal diameter of your hoses? I’m pretty sure it’s 1”, but
> if you know for sure, please share :)
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have all the pieces to do something kinda similar but i chose Marlon
> (glass reinforced polypropylene).
>
> My plan is to install a tee off the through hull and then use a MIP to
> garden hose adapter and cap.  The straight through portion of the tee would
> facilitate a short hose and ram rod for clearing blockages.  Off the tee
> would be the barb fitting for the intake.  For winterizing or flushing the
> through hull would be closed and the short shot of hose attached and run to
> the antifreeze or flush chem or freshwater.  I've intended to tap off the
> boat's freshwater system and send it to the hose connection so that i can
> "flush" the engine after each use.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Sep 28, 2015 11:34 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
>> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
>> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
>> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>>
>> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I’m not sure there’s enough clearance between the through-hull and the 
floorboard (my hose is connected to a 90-degree adapter) — so I’m looking for 
something I can place in-line. For example, this has caught my eye: 
s981022078391678967_p16_i1_w600.jpeg 

 

What is the internal diameter of your hoses? I’m pretty sure it’s 1”, but if 
you know for sure, please share :)


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







> On Sep 28, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have all the pieces to do something kinda similar but i chose Marlon (glass 
> reinforced polypropylene). 
> 
> My plan is to install a tee off the through hull and then use a MIP to garden 
> hose adapter and cap.  The straight through portion of the tee would 
> facilitate a short hose and ram rod for clearing blockages.  Off the tee 
> would be the barb fitting for the intake.  For winterizing or flushing the 
> through hull would be closed and the short shot of hose attached and run to 
> the antifreeze or flush chem or freshwater.  I've intended to tap off the 
> boat's freshwater system and send it to the hose connection so that i can 
> "flush" the engine after each use.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Sep 28, 2015 11:34 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
> to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand 
> now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on 
> the hose in a tight little area. 
> 
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have all the pieces to do something kinda similar but i chose Marlon
(glass reinforced polypropylene).

My plan is to install a tee off the through hull and then use a MIP to
garden hose adapter and cap.  The straight through portion of the tee would
facilitate a short hose and ram rod for clearing blockages.  Off the tee
would be the barb fitting for the intake.  For winterizing or flushing the
through hull would be closed and the short shot of hose attached and run to
the antifreeze or flush chem or freshwater.  I've intended to tap off the
boat's freshwater system and send it to the hose connection so that i can
"flush" the engine after each use.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 28, 2015 11:34 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Stu via CnC-List]

Or if you go down the main page a bit, there is a heading called “Search the 
Email Discussion List Archives”.  Again, fill in your search words and let 
Google do the walking with your fingers for you.

Stu___

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Stus-List Searchable archives?

[Stu via CnC-List]

To search the C&C Photo Album, go to the main page, and just under the 
rendezvous pic, is a box – Search the Photo Album – enter your search word(s) 
and let Google do the work for you.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

 Edd,
Check out the latest GOB magazine.  There's an article about how the author 
improved his holding tank, using mostly big-box store stuff.  
I used the article to fashion a fresh water rinse for my head by inserting a 
"T" and a hose b/t the seacock and the existing, intake hose to the head.
 
The same materials should work for your raw water intake.
Just some PVC fittings, including a "T", and hose and clamps.
 
Good Luck,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
C&C30 MKII
Deltaville, VA
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Re: Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Joe DB, See below where I described this in response to another thread.   I
contacted Mars Keel about this and they were aware of the issue on boats of
this age.  (they made the keels for
C&C I believe)  I spoke to the yard that repaired the worst one described
below, and he mentioned that he had found a large void around the keelbolt
head.   Fill with water, freeze, repeat...I have some photos of this.

"Check the lead keel for hairline cracks and bulges at the lower end of the
keelboats.   It seems that water seeps into voids/gaps around the bolt,
settles around the cast-in head of the bolt, freezes and expands.   I
noticed one in our yard (whitby ON) last winter with a section of lead
broken clear of the keel.  I could have stuck a screwdriver in and levered
it off.   I then toured the yard looking for C&Cs of a similar vintage, and
noticed this problem in 6 of 8.   The other 2 had more recent shoal keels
installed.  Mine is showing early onset.  This is a 5-7k repair.  *. My
Single biggest caveat and not well understood by surveyors, probably a
recent thing."

Subject: Re: Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair?
Message-ID:
<991d8196d9894467874d350bdd4fa...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Frost crack?
I have no idea how water could fracture a solid piece of lead. Something
else has to be going on.
Joe DB
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Edd,
This is on the list for Pegasus. I am looking at installing one of these.
Looks like it will work with a minimum of fuss.
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/groco-safety-seacock-engine-flush-kits-ssc-series

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Ballard, WA

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 8:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

That system is a great idea, but I think that many of us would prefer to build 
our own if choosing that sort of system. 
They charge over 4k Euros (6k C$) for the cheapest kit. 
Pretty sure I could source what I would need to construct something functional 
for less money than what they charge. 
With that said, and if you had to pay for a tunnel installation, it is price 
competitive with some of the other systems available. 
I just think that it should sell for less. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 10:19
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters


  Sure - if someone wants one, or even two, go for it. I just find every C&C I 
have had to dock or undock so far to be about the easiest single engine boats 
to handle. I get and out of my slip single-handed with little effort.

  If you do have to have one, this looks nice: 
http://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster You could make it double as an 
emergency bilge pump and have fun squirting bystanders.

   

  Joe 

  Coquina

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:37 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

   

  Edd just wants to be able to call out, "Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
leave Spacedock".   :^)


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

   

On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 

Bill Bina



On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:

  Ed:

   

  I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were 
crazy when we removed the bow thruster (it didn't work anyway).  I can say I 
never missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would 
expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I just 
don't see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds strange, but 
my experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to get into. There 
just isn't as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been the rare occasion 
where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a dock it serves no 
purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the complexity of the systems, to 
say nothing of the cost, just isn't justified.  I

   

  My opinion would be just say no.

   

  Of course, it's your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
want to.

   

  John

   



--


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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Anyone know the raw-water hose interior diameter for the raw water intake hoses 
on a C&C 37+? 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:38 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did this years ago. I added a T connection and one hose goes to the engine 
> and the other to the washdown pump. To add antifreeze I shut the seacock and 
> pull the hoe off the washdown pump and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:34 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Edd Schillay
> Subject: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>  
> Listers,
>  
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
> to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand 
> now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on 
> the hose in a tight little area. 
>  
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
>  
> 
> All the best,
>  
> Edd
>  
>  
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Yes, I was about to suggest “water jets”.  Vetus messed around with them the 
late 90’s.  Didn’t realize someone else was trying it.  They are complex beasts 
with huge power draw and , presumably, lower power output per watt.  Still, for 
a smaller boat (like a 40) it could be interesting and they do significantly 
improve the drag issue. That is the type of unit I took off the 51.  On the 
plus side, I didn’t have to run new wiring to install the lectra-san!

John

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sure – if someone wants one, or even two, go for it. I just find every C&C I 
> have had to dock or undock so far to be about the easiest single engine boats 
> to handle. I get and out of my slip single-handed with little effort.
> If you do have to have one, this looks nice: 
> http://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster 
>  You could make it double as an 
> emergency bilge pump and have fun squirting bystanders.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:37 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters
>  
> Edd just wants to be able to call out, “Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
> leave Spacedock”…   :^)
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
> eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
> physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
> who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
> Ed:
>  
> I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy 
> when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can say I never 
> missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would expect. 
>  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I just don’t 
> see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds strange, but my 
> experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to get into. There 
> just isn’t as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been the rare occasion 
> where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a dock it serves no 
> purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the complexity of the systems, 
> to say nothing of the cost, just isn’t justified.  I
>  
> My opinion would be just say no…
>  
> Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn well want 
> to.
>  
> John
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I found a very good way of winterizing--go south to the Bahamas!  Beats any 
dealing with raw water hoses!

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:38 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did this years ago. I added a T connection and one hose goes to the engine 
> and the other to the washdown pump. To add antifreeze I shut the seacock and 
> pull the hoe off the washdown pump and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
> Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:34 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Edd Schillay
> Subject: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>  
> Listers,
>  
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
> to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand 
> now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on 
> the hose in a tight little area. 
>  
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 
>  
> 
> All the best,
>  
> Edd
>  
>  
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I have done this a couple of ways – with a 3 way valve, and with a tee where I 
shut the thru hull and open a valve on a piece of hose into the antifreeze ….. 
both work well. I also have an extra piece of hose I can put over the side if 
the thru hull plugs while I clear it ….

Paul Fountain
Managing Director
SeaSource Inc.
Bookkeeping & IT Services.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:34 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area.

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Steve- I like my current arrangement.  I have a double block with cam 
mounted on the traveller.  That runs to three blocks on the boom and then 
forward to the mast and back to a clutch and winch on the cabin top.  In 
lighter winds, it can all be controlled with the cam on the traveller. In 
higher winds, the winch is used.  The double ended configuration gives me lots 
of flexibility depending on the situation.  I will send a picture off list.  
Dave

PS- I find the traveller very hard to move in +10 knot winds.  Still haven’t 
solved the source of that problem but I don’t think it is the configuration.  I 
plan to disassemble and replace the bearings this winter and see if that helps. 
 

On Sep 26, 2015, at 11:06 PM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> All,
> I would like to improve the mainsheet / traveler set up on my 1990 34+ and 
> was looking for advise on best ways to improve original factory set up.  Any 
> suggestions on where to get detailed info on improvement options?
> 
> Thank you 
> 
> Steve
> Deja Vu
> Sent from my iPhone


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I did this years ago. I added a T connection and one hose goes to the engine 
and the other to the washdown pump. To add antifreeze I shut the seacock and 
pull the hoe off the washdown pump and stick it in a bucket of antifreeze.

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:34 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area.

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dave,

You should be able to work with your yard to lift the hull enough to work on 
the keel and keel bolts. You’ll need a sturdy frame to support the keel no 
matter what. I built my own cradle 
 and it wasn’t 
too terribly difficult. No doubt but that the yard will be “involved” with 
supporting the keel given all that could go wrong…

You should be able to find info in this list about re-bedding and re-torqueing 
the keel bolts. Many listers have done just this type of maintenance. Certainly 
“the Google” will have plenty of info too.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
>  
> It is time to re-bed the keel (which weeps after haulout) and to consider 
> what to do about some frost fractures bulging the lead casting at the base of 
> one of the keelbolts.  
> Is it feasible to block the keel on the cradle then jack the boat a few 
> inches skyward to do this work?  Has anyone done this?
> Have any of you had this work (the rebedding especially) done professionally, 
> and if so, what was the cost?  
>  
> Many thanks.  
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Petar;

 

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C&C 38 Mk2

Petar

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Re: Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Frost crack?
I have no idea how water could fracture a solid piece of lead. Something else 
has to be going on.
Joe DB
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer
Subject: Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair?

Hi,

It is time to re-bed the keel (which weeps after haulout) and to consider what 
to do about some frost fractures bulging the lead casting at the base of one of 
the keelbolts.
Is it feasible to block the keel on the cradle then jack the boat a few inches 
skyward to do this work?  Has anyone done this?
Have any of you had this work (the rebedding especially) done professionally, 
and if so, what was the cost?

Many thanks.

Dave



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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Sure - if someone wants one, or even two, go for it. I just find every C&C I 
have had to dock or undock so far to be about the easiest single engine boats 
to handle. I get and out of my slip single-handed with little effort.
If you do have to have one, this looks nice: 
http://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster You could make it double as an 
emergency bilge pump and have fun squirting bystanders.

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

Edd just wants to be able to call out, "Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
leave Spacedock"...   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too.

Bill Bina

On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
Ed:

I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy when 
we removed the bow thruster (it didn't work anyway).  I can say I never missed 
it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would expect.  I would 
think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I just don't see the 
need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds strange, but my experience 
has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to get into. There just isn't as 
much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been the rare occasion where it would 
have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a dock it serves no purpose as god 
invented spring lines.  To me, the complexity of the systems, to say nothing of 
the cost, just isn't justified.  I

My opinion would be just say no...

Of course, it's your money and you should spend it however you damn well want 
to.

John

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Re: Stus-List boat closing!

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — very nice!  Yes, some work to be done; but it wouldn’t be a boat 
without that…   :^)

I love the separate shower.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:23 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> HI Fred,
>  
> I uploaded some photos, in no particular order, of the new boat if anyone 
> would like a peak!
>  
> One of the details I like, that the PO ordered from the factory, was that he 
> did away with the teak toe rails for an aluminum angle toe rail.  minimal 
> exterior teak to maitain!
>  
> You can really see the need for a paint-job in some of the photos...
>  
> http://1drv.ms/1MATBD3 
>  
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Still Vagabond

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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Use Google and add *"cnc-list"* to your search.  To clarify, cnc-list needs
to be in quotes.  Otherwise you will get lots of hits referring to cnc
stuff.

For example, to search for stuffing box posts use the search string:
stuffing box "cnc-list"

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the best way is to do a google (or your favorite search engine)
> search and add the term site:cnc-list.com
>  after your search
> phrase.
>
> Like stuffing box site:cnc-list.com
> 
>
> that should return anything from the cnc site that would have to do with
> stuffing boxes
>
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Massachusetts
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dave Syer 
> Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0400
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking
> questions that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived
> messages can be found at :
>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/
>
> However these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search
> past posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

usually the Google search works. You can limit the search by specifying the 
“site:” operator (e.g.boat name site:cnc-list.com).

An interesting thing is that I cannot find any results newer than 2014.

Marek

From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dave Syer 
Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?

Hi All, 

I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking questions 
that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived messages can be 
found at :

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/

However these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search past 
posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.  

Dave





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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

Welcome!  You'll find that C&C owners are willing to help and someone here
has done almost anything you can think of in the way of upgrades and
repairs.

Where are you/your boat located?

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 9:58 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the best way is to do a google (or your favorite search engine)
> search and add the term site:cnc-list.com
>  after your search
> phrase.
>
> Like stuffing box site:cnc-list.com
> 
>
> that should return anything from the cnc site that would have to do with
> stuffing boxes
>
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Massachusetts
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dave Syer 
> Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0400
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking
> questions that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived
> messages can be found at :
>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/
>
> However these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search
> past posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I think the best way is to do a google (or your favorite search engine) search 
and add the term site:cnc-list.com after your search phrase. Like stuffing box 
site:cnc-list.com that should return anything from the cnc site that would have 
to do with stuffing boxes Danny1985 Tartan 40Massachusetts

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer 
Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0400


Hi All, I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking 
questions that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived messages 
can be found at : http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/ However 
these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search past 
posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.  Dave  ___

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Stus-List 33ii Keel rebedding and ballast crack repair?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi,

It is time to re-bed the keel (which weeps after haulout) and to consider
what to do about some frost fractures bulging the lead casting at the base
of one of the keelbolts.
Is it feasible to block the keel on the cradle then jack the boat a few
inches skyward to do this work?  Has anyone done this?
Have any of you had this work (the rebedding especially) done
professionally, and if so, what was the cost?

Many thanks.

Dave
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Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking questions
that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived messages can be
found at :

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/

However these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search
past posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.

Dave
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Re: Stus-List boat closing!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

HI Fred, I uploaded some photos, in no particular order, of the new boat if 
anyone would like a peak! One of the details I like, that the PO ordered from 
the factory, was that he did away with the teak toe rails for an aluminum angle 
toe rail.  minimal exterior teak to maitain! You can really see the need for a 
paint-job in some of the photos... http://1drv.ms/1MATBD3 Danny1985 Tartan 
40Still Vagabond

-- Original Message --
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat closing!
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2015 21:44:14 -0500

Danny -- congratulations!  You'll have to post some photos somewhere for us to 
see.

If you have any questions about interfacing the new VHF, let me know.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis -- Bayfield, WI



> On Sep 25, 2015, at 3:35 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, Finally closed on our new to us Tartan 40 today.  check is in the mail 
> and by this time tomorrow she will be all ours!
>  
> The loan company got her documented for us and did the whole title search and 
> all that. (charged like $600!) 
>  
> The weather is really nasty out there at the moment with big seas and north 
> winds so maybe by next weekend, things will settle down enough for an outside 
> delivery home.
>  
> If not we can go inside, through the east river, up LIS and take the extra 
> day or two.
>  
> Not completely sure of our landing point yet.  There is a guy with a mooring 
> near where we had the Newport Rendezvous I could get for "a deal" for a 
> couple of weeks or, maybe I'll just head back to Westport point.  From there 
> I'll have to decide where to winter her.  She needs some cosmetics I'd like 
> to have done and haven't quite decided where that'll happen yet.
>  
> I've been talking with a delivery captain over the last few weeks as things 
> progressed and will be using him to help get the boat home with me and maybe 
> another hired hand.  Anyone feel like a Tom's river, NJ to somewhere around 
> the places mentioned delivery sometime soon?  
>  
> Anyway, we're delighted about the new boat, we had all the survey items 
> addressed by the yard where she has been kept her whole life, which were 
> really quite few, and had the old diesel pumped out and 25 gallons of fresh 
> to replace it.  I think we're in good shape!
>  
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Vagabond at the moment (that would be a good boat name!! Vagabond)
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Edd just wants to be able to call out, “Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
leave Spacedock”…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
> eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
> physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
> who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
>> Ed:
>> 
>> I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were crazy 
>> when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can say I never 
>> missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would 
>> expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I 
>> just don’t see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds 
>> strange, but my experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to 
>> get into. There just isn’t as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been 
>> the rare occasion where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a 
>> dock it serves no purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the 
>> complexity of the systems, to say nothing of the cost, just isn’t justified. 
>>  I
>> 
>> My opinion would be just say no…
>> 
>> Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
>> want to.
>> 
>> John

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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because 
they eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it 
less physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty 
of sailors who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too.


Bill Bina

On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:

Ed:

I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were 
crazy when we removed the bow thruster (it didn’t work anyway).  I can 
say I never missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much 
as you would expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse. 
 Nevertheless,I just don’t see the need and I sail in the same area as 
you.  It sounds strange, but my experience has been the tighter the 
slip the easier it is to get into. There just isn’t as much room to 
screw up!  Yes, there has been the rare occasion where it would have 
been helpful coming in.  Leaving a dock it serves no purpose as god 
invented spring lines.  To me, the complexity of the systems, to say 
nothing of the cost, just isn’t justified.  I


My opinion would be just say no…

Of course, it’s your money and you should spend it however you damn 
well want to.


John



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