Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ahmet;

 

The old Honda 4 stroke on my 25 used between .6 and .75 gallons per hour. I’ve 
not had the Tohatsu 9.9 on the boat for long enough to be positive about the 
fuel consumption, but I’m guess in to be in the .75 gaal/hour range when 
running about 5 knots.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.

I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.

Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a 
close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.

 

The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to be 
about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke

Ahmet

C&C 25 "Tabasco"

Boston, MA

 

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.  All I 
can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give yourself 
several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail after dark.
I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery to a regatta but 
would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance and relaxed a bit more. 
 You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm water but sooner or later 
you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and the constant drone of the 
engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow enclosed bay, you get more “hobby 
horsing” over the short waves when the breeze comes up, which would be annoying 
trying to keep the prop in the water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic 
where the waves may be larger, but more spaced apart, it is more likely that 
your ride will be more comfortable and friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of 
lee shores when the wind is off the water.

And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the Keys. 
 What fun!

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea 
state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When I need 
to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the 
wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea 
which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation 
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under 
sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the 
stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it 
comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat 
in one piece.

Chuck

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

 

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned a

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

No Danny.  But apparently there's a really good seafood restaurant called 
McMenamy's Seafood in MA.  People are always asking me if we're related so 
there must be some McMenamy's in the NE.  I'm from St Louis MO originally.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:18 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hey Mark,

I have a cousin with the same name from NY.  That wouldn't be you?

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 1/26/2016 9:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.

I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.

Thanks again,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's 

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hey Mark, 
I have a cousin with the same name from NY.  That wouldn't be you? 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List  Date: 1/26/2016  9:12 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.



I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.



Thanks again,



Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL



On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
wrote:









Mark,
 
The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a dinette that
 converted into a berth.  
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove
 it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one
 side.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List

Sent: January-26-16 18:29

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Mark McMenamy

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info


 

Hi Rick,


 


Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.


 


Thanks for the info and the welcome.


 


Mark



Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25


Fort Pierce FL





On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
wrote:





Mark,
 
Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.
 
The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke. 
 Mine has a plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and 
I have a 2” thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom 
on the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for 
sailing.
 
When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in
 rainy weather.  I made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire 
cockpit and wraps over the lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use 
the cockpit in all but the worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table 
in the cockpit floor
 so we can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board 
that fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar 
and a place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the 
cabin.
 
Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.


 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 


Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL,
 but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.


 


I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm to
 get down there.


 


Thanks again for the info.


 


Mark


 


 


 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25


Fort Pierce FL

















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No virus found in this message.

Checked by AVG - www.a

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.

I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.

Thanks again,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL



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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of
the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a
dinette that converted into a berth.  

There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the
core when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.

The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for
the cockpit.

I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It
rotted away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want
to remove it to reseal it anyway.

It's so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you're relaxing after a day
of sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to
one side.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added
a post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read
that some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

 

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
 wrote:

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation
in waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens
when you replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a
plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a
2" thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on
the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for
sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises
but it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I
made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps
over the lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in
all but the worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the
cockpit floor so we can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made
a plywood board that fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It
serves as a great bar and a place to place for the stove when cooking so the
heat stays out of the cabin.

 

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your
25, I know the boats very well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
tide with and easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's
just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over
100 nm to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL






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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Monty Schumpert via CnC-List]

I refinished the cabin sole on my 34+ several years ago and used multiple
coats of Smith's CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the top
side, followed by about 6 coats of Epifanes two- part polyurethane.  I have
been very pleased with the result which is a glossy finish.  Since I
stripped and sanded the old floor boards your surface will be a little
different from mine, but the CPES is applied until the pores of the wood
are filled and level. The CPES is very thin and goes on very easily. I
agree with someone who recommended a temperature warmer than 50 degrees.
It's a big job, but you'll be pleased with the result and all the
compliments.  Good luck!

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
>
> http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available
> in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like
> that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its
> penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the
> underside of the sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not
> for the topside of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> cenel...@aol.com 
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

If the weather is right, it's very doable. Once you reach Delray, the 
Gulfstream is close, so you need to run in 40 to 100 feet of water to avoid 
northbound currents. 

Be aware, though, that you may end up motorsailing when the winds turn 
southeast-south, as they often do. But it's much quicker to motor outside than 
on the ICW, where you have to pop drawbridges.

For  most of the year, you get plenty of warning if bad weather is coming. In 
the summer, you have to be prepared for thunderstorms to leak over onto the 
ocean from the Everglades.

They will scare the bejezus out of you the first few times. You can go from 
sunny to 50 knot gusts in 15 minutes. There's usually no way to run for shelter.

They're  over quickly, but it helps to have a beer on hand to calm the nerves 
afterward.

There are sailing guides to the Keys that are very helpful.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  
Date:01/26/2016  5:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Thanks a lot Jack.  I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth 
one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges.  Is it possible to do 
an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List  
wrote:

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
Date:01/26/2016 4:41 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Taillieu 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

 

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL




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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
> 
> http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
>> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
>> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
>> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
>> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside 
>> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>>  
>> FWIW
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> North Carolina
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

Balancing the boat that way works pretty good, and I do that sometimes.
The current draw of the autopilot is very low, around usually 1 to 2 amps
while operating, but yes, It is there.
It would be of concern if used continuously for several days without
charging the battery.
Ahmet


On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 5:14 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Ahmet.  I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to
> rig the boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the
> point of sail.  It seems to work very well.  I was looking at a tiller
> pilot too, but of course there's a current draw.
>
> Mark
>
> Mark McMenamy
> "Icicle" C&C 25
> Fort Pierce FL
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.
> I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.
> Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on
> a close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.
>
> The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to
> be about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke
> Ahmet
> C&C 25 "Tabasco"
> Boston, MA
>
> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Mark,
>>
>> The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.
>> All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give
>> yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail
>> after dark.I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery
>> to a regatta but would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance
>> and relaxed a bit more.  You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm
>> water but sooner or later you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and
>> the constant drone of the engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow
>> enclosed bay, you get more “hobby horsing” over the short waves when the
>> breeze comes up, which would be annoying trying to keep the prop in the
>> water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic where the waves may be larger,
>> but more spaced apart, it is more likely that your ride will be more
>> comfortable and friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of lee shores when
>> the wind is off the water.
>>
>> And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the
>> Keys.  What fun!
>>
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>
>> Half Magic
>>
>> 1975 25 Mk 1
>>
>> S/V Orion
>>
>> 1983 35 Landfall
>>
>> Padanaram, MA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Mark
>> McMenamy via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
>> our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
>> I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
>> here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
>> tide with and easterly wind.
>>
>>
>>
>> I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking
>> of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.
>> It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little
>> over 100 nm to get down there.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks again for the info.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mark McMenamy
>>
>> "Icicle" C&C 25
>>
>> Fort Pierce FL
>>
>>
>> On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mark,
>>
>> I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by
>> the sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to
>> sail using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the
>> nose.  When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew)
>> heading directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water
>> better than a heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also
>> motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat
>> tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight
>> of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick
>> and choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer
>> distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>>
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>
>> Half Magic
>>
>> 1975 25 Mk 1
>>
>> S/V Orion
>>
>> 1983 35 Landfall
>>
>> Padanaram, MA
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels

[jtsails via CnC-List]

I’m in the middle of this project too! I took Wally’s advice and am using 1/4” 
foamed PVC, but in my case, I am not painting it. Wally has reported that it 
has held up great and if it can stand up to his use.. It is held in place 
by velcro. I am happy with the result and look so far. I used the old panels as 
patterns. I cut the new pieces to rough shape and then clamped them to the old 
panels and used a laminate trimming bit in the router to cut the final shape. 
Worked great! My old panels were 1/4” ply covered with some kind of vinyl. I 
purchased the raw material for the new from a local (semi-local) plastics 
company, Piedmont Plastics, who were happy to sell me three 4’x8’ sheets. 
Material cost was about $100.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 2:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels

I have 2 panels with a goog amount of curve. When I put them up, I started on 
the end with the least amount of bend putting screws every 8 inches. (reason 
for brass screws). I did use 3ply veneer. I didn't pay attention to grain as I 
was trying for maximum useage of each sheet of wood.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 





-- Original message--

From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List 

Date: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 07:18

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca;

Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels



The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to 
them. Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work 
that out with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 
1/4" might have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or something like that. 
Steve ThomasC&C36 MKIMerritt Island, FLC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON 
"svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List"  wrote: > > I replaced my panels with 
varnished African mahogany 1/4" plywood. Used brass screws to hold them up. >   
  Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. > -- Original 
message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 13:07To: 
CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels> I have 
been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years now.  
Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a plastics 
selector pack, () which contains several different samples of plastics.  I'm 
not excited about paying $57 for a sample pack which may or may not include 
what I want.> > I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small 
piece to mcmaster to see if they can match it.> > It's really good stuff and 
has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several posts which could be answered 
with a link to this material.> > Dennis C.> Touche' 35-1 #83> Mandeville, LA> > 
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  wrote:> Steve,> Like 
Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was similar, 
white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on the 
other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and used 
SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.> Best,> Dave Godwin> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin> Reedville - 
Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. 
via CnC-List  wrote:> Steve,> > I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt 
access panels on Touche' with plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or 
so thick, smooth on one side and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and 
was easy to cut and finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat 
heads.> > I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and 
record the stock number.  It's really nice stuff. > > Dennis C.> Touche' 35-1 
#83> Mandeville, LA> > On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via 
CnC-List  wrote:> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely 
missing, which is a bummer because the old ones would have been useful for 
templates. It is what it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked 
like, or what materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of 
similar boats, including whether or not there were options available.> > Steve 
Thomas> C&C36 MKI> Merritt Island, FL> > C&C27 MKIII> Port Stanley, ON> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2" thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks a lot Jack.  I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth 
one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges.  Is it possible to do 
an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab(r)|PRO


 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
Date:01/26/2016 4:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Mark,

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2" thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Ahmet.  I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to rig the 
boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the point of sail.  
It seems to work very well.  I was looking at a tiller pilot too, but of course 
there's a current draw.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.
I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.
Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a 
close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.

The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to be 
about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke
Ahmet
C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Boston, MA

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.  All I 
can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give yourself 
several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail after dark.
I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery to a regatta but 
would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance and relaxed a bit more. 
 You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm water but sooner or later 
you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and the constant drone of the 
engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow enclosed bay, you get more “hobby 
horsing” over the short waves when the breeze comes up, which would be annoying 
trying to keep the prop in the water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic 
where the waves may be larger, but more spaced apart, it is more likely that 
your ride will be more comfortable and friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of 
lee shores when the wind is off the water.
And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the Keys. 
 What fun!
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea 
state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When I need 
to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the 
wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea 
which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation 
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under 
sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the 
stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it 
comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat 
in one piece.
Chuck

Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy 
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large 
fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the spacing of the 
motor mount

Re: Stus-List Messages

[Stu via CnC-List]

Ahmet – looks like you are subscribed with your gmail account.

Stu


From: Ahmet via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ahmet 
Subject: Stus-List Messages

Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see 
them. 
Is this getting through ?
I am not sure if I subscribed as ah...@sailnomad.com or sailno...@gmail.com
They are the same email, just different aliases.
Ahmet



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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
Date:01/26/2016  4:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Taillieu  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Mark,
 
Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.
 
The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.
 
When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.
 
Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.
 
I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.
 
Thanks again for the info.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[David via CnC-List]

Lets get this fun fleet of 25s to The NE Rendevouz this September!  

Details to follow shortly from Edd and Rob...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 16:42:46 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: sailno...@gmail.com

I have been talking to myself again :)
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Ahmet  wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it. A good friend has one too, so we 
race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.Ahmet1973 C&C 25 
"Tabasco"Winthrop, MA
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello,



My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.



Thanks a million,



Mark





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Stus-List Messages

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Sorry folks, maybe gmail is filtering my own messages, because I don't see
them.
Is this getting through ?
I am not sure if I subscribed as ah...@sailnomad.com or sailno...@gmail.com
They are the same email, just different aliases.
Ahmet
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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:46 PM, Ahmet  wrote:

> I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant
> on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
> I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
> under the deck.
> It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on
> the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.
> In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room,
> and solid.
> Ahmet
> 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"
> Winthrop, MA
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used
>> the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At
>> the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the
>> $450 you mentioned.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on
>> each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long
>> enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and
>> drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to
>> deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer
>> for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe
>> rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the
>> stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and
>> it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old
>> lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:
>>
>>
>>
>> It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward –
>> even though it is only about 5 inches on each side.
>>
>> The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are
>> vertical  but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that
>> they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which
>> I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the
>> early 80s).
>>
>> On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the
>> rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft
>> and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.
>>
>> And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than
>> the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the
>> locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in
>> the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with
>> resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my
>> projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots
>> left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect
>> to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Barbara
>> Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
>> *To:* C&C List 
>> *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
>> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
>> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
>> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
>> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
>> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
>> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
>> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
>> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
>> Barbara L. Hickson
>>
>> "Flight Risk" C&C 33-1
>>
>> Chas., SC.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

I have been talking to myself again :)

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Ahmet  wrote:

> I just bought one last August and love it.
> A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
> What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
> things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
> Ahmet
> 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"
> Winthrop, MA
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as
>> well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
>> anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
>> her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
>> been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would
>> appreciate to know a little of her backstory.
>>
>> Thanks a million,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

 

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL





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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.
I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.
Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a
close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.

The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to
be about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke
Ahmet
C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Boston, MA

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mark,
>
> The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.
> All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give
> yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail
> after dark.I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery
> to a regatta but would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance
> and relaxed a bit more.  You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm
> water but sooner or later you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and
> the constant drone of the engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow
> enclosed bay, you get more “hobby horsing” over the short waves when the
> breeze comes up, which would be annoying trying to keep the prop in the
> water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic where the waves may be larger,
> but more spaced apart, it is more likely that your ride will be more
> comfortable and friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of lee shores when
> the wind is off the water.
>
> And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the
> Keys.  What fun!
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1975 25 Mk 1
>
> S/V Orion
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>
>
>
> Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
> our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
> I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
> here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
> tide with and easterly wind.
>
>
>
> I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking
> of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.
> It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little
> over 100 nm to get down there.
>
>
>
> Thanks again for the info.
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mark McMenamy
>
> "Icicle" C&C 25
>
> Fort Pierce FL
>
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
> sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
> using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
> When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading
> directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a
> heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing
> seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to
> “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the
> crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and
> choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer
> distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1975 25 Mk 1
>
> S/V Orion
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>
>
>
> Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.
>
>
>
> I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the
> engine cavitating?
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Mark McMenamy
>
> "Icicle" C&C 25
>
> Fort Pierce FL
>
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
> plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and
> it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount
> bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that
> the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the
> backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic
> with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks
> or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I
> had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mike,

For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It 
needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use 
on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin 
finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of waiting for the product to 
come on the market. I used two coats of a satin varnish to get a rubbed effect. 

The first time I rebuilt the cabin sole I used West System on the bare wood but 
I don't now feel that is necessary. 

 I, like others, used the old delaminating originals as templates and paid a 
price when routing. And I used standard issue West epoxy for the sides and 
back. I will drill-and-fill prior to attaching the new pieces. Sometime in the 
distant future...

Pics: 
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-05-18T15:48:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=7&by-date=false

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 16:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy.  http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
>> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
>> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
>> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
>> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside 
>> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>>  
>> FWIW
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> North Carolina
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
>> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole
>> 
>> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and 
>> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully 
>> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>>  
>> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly 
>> and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>>  
>> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
>> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I 
>> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the 
>> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and 
>> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up 
>> to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>>  
>> Epoxy on wood:
>> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
>> believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I 
>> have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start 
>> with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling 
>> properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West 
>> with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will 
>> then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my 
>> intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement 
>> of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees 
>> Celcius (50F)
>>  
>> Varnish over epoxy:
>> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
>> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the 
>> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I 
>> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy 
>> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or 
>> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the 
>> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way 
>> into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on 
>> but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy 
>> layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in 
>> the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole.  Any comments on 
>> this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does come down the 
>> mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>>  
>> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there 
>> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a 
>> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious 
>> for years to come …
>>  
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>

Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:

I haven't replaced the cabin sole but I have painted:

1.  the underside of the teak and holly sole with West System 
Resin.two coats with the slow hardenerapplied with a foam 
brushflowed evenly.worked just fine.


2. have never applied resin to the topside.not sure I would do that, 
mainly for aesthetics reasons.I painted mine with Ultrasole, 6 coats 
and that was 7 or 8 years ago.still looks fine.  I don't have any 
Ultrasole left, not sure if it still on the market so if I do the 
topside again, I will use varnish.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C7c 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-01-26 3:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak 
and holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  
Thankfully especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD 
after taxes!


I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and 
Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently


My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in 
my garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws 
which I also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece 
and all the niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both 
the underside and the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  
Following that there will be up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of 
the sole


Epoxy on wood:

The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow 
evenly.  I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than 
slow hardener.  I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on 
wood so will again start with the underside to see how this works 
out.  Any comments on the levelling properties and techniques with 
epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow hardener.   
If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat on 
top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do 
this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house 
but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius 
(50F)


Varnish over epoxy:

On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was 
comprised of several panels and I did not think to line up the holly 
stripes between the two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not 
occur this time when I cut out the panel that is forward near head 
compartment.  With no epoxy under the varnish and a wet boat like the 
J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and jib sheets on the sole 
in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the wood itself. On 
top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from this.  
After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, 
although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer 
beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in 
the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole.  Any 
comments on this? Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does 
come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.


Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are 
there any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It 
seems a relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will 
be very obvious for years to come …


Mike

Persistence

Halifax



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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy.  http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available
> in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like
> that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its
> penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the
> underside of the sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not
> for the topside of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
> Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole
>
> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>
> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>
> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>
> Epoxy on wood:
> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.
> I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.
> I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again
> start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the
> levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan
> to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks
> good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.
> It is my intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the
> basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10
> degrees Celcius (50F)
>
> Varnish over epoxy:
> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of
> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the
> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I
> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>
> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there
> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
> obvious for years to come …
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
> the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>  
> FWIW
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000.  I used one 
existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base.  
I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I 
didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the stanchion into 
the base.  When I sailed on Lake Ontario and removed the stations every fall 
for my winter tarp I had no problems removing those screws.  Since I’ve been on 
the Atlantic and changed my tarp installation method I don’t have to remove the 
stations.  After a couple years the screws will not come out of the base.  I’ve 
had two bases crack and had to cut them apart to get them off the toerail.  
Luckily I had bought some used bases at a local club’s flea market and this 
time I drilled the hole for the screw that holds the stanchion larger so I 
could use a machine screw and a locknut on it.  Now it won’t seize into the 
base and if it sticks I can just use a small punch to tap it out.

The added room that it makes on the decks is definitely worth the trouble.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-25-16 20:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on 
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.

I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut under 
the deck.

It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on the 
aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.

In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room, and 
solid.

Ahmet

1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"

Winthrop, MA

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the 
type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I 
think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you 
mentioned.

 

I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of 
the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to 
handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an 
additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint 
(which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and 
a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, 
IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took 
about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the 
bolts through the hull to deck joint.

 

My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in 
the new installation, but YMMV.

 

I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:

 

It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even 
though it is only about 5 inches on each side.

The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical  
but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought 
the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a 
problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s).

On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, 
so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and 
drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.

And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the 
deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations 
where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, 
but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into 
the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming 
season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old 
bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck 
repairs; at least in those areas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My to

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Once the chop gets rough, on a C&C 25 your most practical solution would be
to go with the flow and sail.
She sails much better than motors, especially with the outboard.
It may also be feasible on a choppy sea to somehow put and additional line
from the engine, over the pushpit to a cleat or solid point to reduce the
stress on the mount.
I have done a lot of long distance voyaging on my Irwin 43, but nothing on
the C&C 25. You pretty much would have to sail most of the way.
I will sail her from Boston to Provincetown this summer to see how she feels
8 hours on a choppy sea may get tiring.
Ahmet


On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:50 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
> our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
> I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
> here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
> tide with and easterly wind.
>
> I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking
> of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.
> It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little
> over 100 nm to get down there.
>
> Thanks again for the info.
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> Mark McMenamy
> "Icicle" C&C 25
> Fort Pierce FL
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
> sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
> using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
> When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading
> directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a
> heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing
> seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to
> “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the
> crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and
> choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer
> distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1975 25 Mk 1
>
> S/V Orion
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>
>
>
> Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.
>
>
>
> I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the
> engine cavitating?
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Mark McMenamy
>
> "Icicle" C&C 25
>
> Fort Pierce FL
>
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
> plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and
> it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount
> bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that
> the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the
> backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic
> with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks
> or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I
> had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the
> prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would
> flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft
> motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have
> chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.
>
> Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so
> perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt
> that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1975 25 Mk 1
>
> S/V Orion
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mark McMenamy 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
>
>
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
>
>
> I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked
> the yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it
> back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the
> cold weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing
> plate that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still
> has gotten some small cracks outsid

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Mike,
 I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36.  Some thoughts.
  I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
  I epoxied both sides, using foam roller.  Slow cure west system.  Good base. 
  I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled. 
 These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
  I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between.  Again, foam roller worked well.
  Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a 
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up 
sanding and redoing several edges.  Leaves enough room for the finishes you 
choose.
   I think your work space needs some heat.  I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.  
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that 
space.   
   Good luck.  Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

 

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

 

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

 

Epoxy on wood:

The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

 

Varnish over epoxy:

On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

 

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

 

___ Email address: 
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-- go to the bottom of page at: 
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I refinished mine several years ago and also had trouble getting the epoxy
to flow.  I didn't thin it.  Now I know.

I think the clear hardener only comes in 1 "speed".  For the visible
surface, you want the clear.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:51 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on
> the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit
> mine that way this year.
> You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats.
> I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would bring them
> into the living room for all your winter refinishing. :)
>
> Cheers
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> Newport, RI
>
> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
>> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
>> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>>
>>
>>
>> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
>> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>>
>>
>>
>> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
>> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
>> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
>> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
>> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
>> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>>
>>
>>
>> Epoxy on wood:
>>
>> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow
>> evenly.  I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow
>> hardener.  I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so
>> will again start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any
>> comments on the levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be
>> welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the
>> underside looks good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base
>> before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this over the winter in my
>> garage which is in the basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures
>> are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
>>
>>
>>
>> Varnish over epoxy:
>>
>> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised
>> of several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between
>> the two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when
>> I cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
>> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
>> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
>> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
>> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
>> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
>> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
>> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
>> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
>> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>>
>>
>>
>> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are
>> there any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
>> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
>> obvious for years to come …
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on
the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit
mine that way this year.
You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats.
I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would bring them into
the living room for all your winter refinishing. :)

Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>
>
>
> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>
>
>
> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>
>
>
> Epoxy on wood:
>
> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.
> I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.
> I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again
> start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the
> levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan
> to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks
> good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.
> It is my intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the
> basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10
> degrees Celcius (50F)
>
>
>
> Varnish over epoxy:
>
> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of
> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the
> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I
> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>
>
>
> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there
> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
> obvious for years to come …
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels

[svpegasus38]

I have 2 panels with a goog amount of curve. When I put them up, I started 
on the end with the least amount of bend putting screws every 8 inches. (reason 
for brass screws). I did use 3ply veneer. I didn't pay attention to grain as I 
was trying for maximum useage of each sheet of wood.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jan 26, 
2016 07:18To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels
The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to 
them. Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work 
that out with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 
1/4" might have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or something like that. 
Steve ThomasC&C36 MKIMerritt Island, FLC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON 
"svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List"  wrote: > > I replaced my panels with 
varnished African mahogany 1/4" plywood. Used brass screws to hold them up. >   
  Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. > -- Original 
message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jan 25, 2016 13:07To: 
CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels> I have 
been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years now.  
Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a plastics 
selector pack, () which contains several different samples of plastics.  I'm 
not excited about paying $57 for a sample pack which may or may not include 
what I want.> > I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small 
piece to mcmaster to see if they can match it.> > It's really good stuff and 
has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several posts which could be answered 
with a link to this material.> > Dennis C.> Touche' 35-1 #83> Mandeville, LA> > 
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  wrote:> Steve,> Like 
Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was similar, 
white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on the 
other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and used 
SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.> Best,> Dave Godwin> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin> Reedville - 
Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. 
via CnC-List  wrote:> Steve,> > I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt 
access panels on Touche' with plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or 
so thick, smooth on one side and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and 
was easy to cut and finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat 
heads.> > I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and 
record the stock number.  It's really nice stuff. > > Dennis C.> Touche' 35-1 
#83> Mandeville, LA> > On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via 
CnC-List  wrote:> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely 
missing, which is a bummer because the old ones would have been useful for 
templates. It is what it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked 
like, or what materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of 
similar boats, including whether or not there were options available.> > Steve 
Thomas> C&C36 MKI> Merritt Island, FL> > C&C27 MKIII> Port Stanley, ON> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mark,

The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.
All I can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give
yourself several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail
after dark.I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery
to a regatta but would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance and
relaxed a bit more.  You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm water
but sooner or later you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and the
constant drone of the engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow enclosed
bay, you get more “hobby horsing” over the short waves when the breeze comes
up, which would be annoying trying to keep the prop in the water. Yet if you
go outside to the Atlantic where the waves may be larger, but more spaced
apart, it is more likely that your ride will be more comfortable and
friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of lee shores when the wind is off the
water.

And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the
Keys.  What fun!

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
tide with and easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's
just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over
100 nm to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading
directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a
heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing
seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to
“squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew
and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my
days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer distances just
to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.

Chuck

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

 

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the
engine cavitating?

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it
is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts
with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the
spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing
plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part
Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing
caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come
across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would
come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough
that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a
20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra
long shaft 25” leg.

Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: T

Re: Stus-List C&C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

[Alex Wolfe via CnC-List]

Thanks for all your informative responses.  I have been doing foredeck racing 
on a Tripp 33 for a few years but just got my C&C 24 this past fall.  I was 
mainly trawling for mounting and hardware details but I have a pretty good idea 
of what is necessary based on the CNC manual.  I don't have the snap shackles 
and snatch blocks set up yet but I am planning to use one of the welded ears at 
the mast head for the spin halyard, probably the port one.  Rick's details 
about mounting the pole lift and the hardware were on the mark. Regarding it 
being an asym,  I will have to lay it out and try to make that determination. I 
just assumed it was a symmetrical. The previous owner said it was a symmetrical 
but he just free flew it once, so maybe he didn't really know.  I do eventually 
want to race once I get things tuned up and make my girlfriend happy with a 
renovated interior for cruising, but an asym would make things a lot easier on 
the cruising end. Thanks for all the help.
Regards,
Alex WolfeShakaC&C 24Miami, FL___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark




Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,
I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea 
state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When I need 
to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the 
wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea 
which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation 
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under 
sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the 
stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it 
comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat 
in one piece.
Chuck

Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy 
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large 
fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the spacing of the 
motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” 
wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several 
years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused by the motor 
induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 
4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would come out of the water coming 
down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough that the cracks showed up 
again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a second 
choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.
Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so 
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt 
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he bac

Re: Stus-List C&C 36 ceiling panels

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I would recommend Masonite (tempered hardboard) for this job. It is 
available in 1/8 or 1/4 inch thicknesses.


Bill Bina

On 1/26/2016 12:08 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Steve.

My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced.   The originals were 1/8 of an 
inch plywood(although it looks more like wood paneling type material) covered with 
a vinyl/ foam pad.   I was fortunate to have my existing panels as a template.   I 
used 1/8 plywood and went to a fabric store and purchased a few yards of marine 
fabric/vinyl.  a spray adhesive to attach the fabric to the new panel.  The 
original panel had little plastic caps that fit over the screws which I was able to 
recycle and use again.

I would think 1/4 inch wood would be a little more difficult to bend to the 
curve of the top of the liner.

Good luck with the project.

Adam Hayden
State of Bliss
C&C 36


Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List C&C 36 ceiling panels

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Hi Steve.

My panels on my C & C 36 have been replaced.   The originals were 1/8 of an 
inch plywood(although it looks more like wood paneling type material) covered 
with a vinyl/ foam pad.   I was fortunate to have my existing panels as a 
template.   I used 1/8 plywood and went to a fabric store and purchased a few 
yards of marine fabric/vinyl.  a spray adhesive to attach the fabric to the new 
panel.  The original panel had little plastic caps that fit over the screws 
which I was able to recycle and use again.  

I would think 1/4 inch wood would be a little more difficult to bend to the 
curve of the top of the liner.  

Good luck with the project. 

Adam Hayden
State of Bliss
C&C 36


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

David,

We can’t all be grizzled offshore veterans such as the salty crew of the
Corsair, to whom a blustery romp on Buzzards Bay is akin to a benign hop
across a tranquil pond.Lesser vessels require somewhat more moderate
conditions to keep mutineers at bay.

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 11:04 AM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

You get waves in Buzzards Bay that would cavitate an outboard...?

Cant be...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:46:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net  

Mark,

I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading
directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a
heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing
seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to
“squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew
and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my
days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer distances just
to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.

Chuck

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

 

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the
engine cavitating?

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it
is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts
with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the
spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing
plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part
Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing
caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come
across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would
come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough
that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a
20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra
long shaft 25” leg.

Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Chuck,

 

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked
the yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it
back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the
cold weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing
plate that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still
has gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to
keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal
backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three
bolts that go through the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is
not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.
The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended
removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so it
is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be honest, it seems like the mount itself
just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat.  I was wondering if

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[David via CnC-List]

You get waves in Buzzards Bay that would cavitate an outboard...?

Cant be...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:46:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net

Mark,I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the 
sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail 
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When 
I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into 
the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering 
sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce 
cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern 
when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging 
off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully 
when it comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and 
the boat in one piece.Chuck Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic 1975 25 Mk 1S/V Orion1983 
35 LandfallPadanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 
as well. I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with 
the engine cavitating? Mark

Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:Mark,I wish I had a viable solution, but I really 
don’t.  My plywood backing plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as 
previously mentioned and it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with 
the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads.  
 I would say that the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on 
centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted 
Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any 
cracks or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until 
I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the 
prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would 
flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft 
motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have 
chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.Also, my boat was originally outfitted with 
the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so perhaps my transom was more lightly built from 
the onset, but somehow doubt that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat 
by boat basis.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1975 25 Mk 1S/V Orion1983 35 
LandfallPadanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Hi Chuck, I have small hairline stress 
cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the yard to look at it.  He wasn't 
too concerned but asked that I bring it back when it is warmer because it's 
hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold weather we've been having.  Behind 
my transom there is a metal backing plate that has been added to greater 
support the engine.  However, it still has gotten some small cracks outside.  
I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this from happening again after I 
repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is kept in place with the motor 
mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through the transom.  The inside 
metal backing plate is not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in 
the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and 
recommended removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the 
fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be honest, it seems like 
the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat.  I was 
wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between 
the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?   Thanks for the 
help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well. Mark

Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hi Mark,Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve 
owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family 
and me very well as a casual racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re 
just mounting the outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter 
outboard, you may want to reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I 
upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at 
the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed 

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mark,

I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the
sea state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.
When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading
directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a
heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing
seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to
“squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew
and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my
days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer distances just
to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece.

Chuck

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

 

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the
engine cavitating?

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mark,

I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it
is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts
with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the
spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing
plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part
Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing
caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come
across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would
come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough
that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a
20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra
long shaft 25” leg.

Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Chuck,

 

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked
the yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it
back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the
cold weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing
plate that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still
has gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to
keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal
backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three
bolts that go through the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is
not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.
The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended
removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so it
is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be honest, it seems like the mount itself
just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat.  I was wondering if it
needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between the mount and
the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?  

 

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25
Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual
racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard
and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the
lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the
transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the
choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay.An

Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 Headliner Panels

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to 
them. 
Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work that out 
with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 1/4" might 
have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or something like that. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List"  wrote: 
> 
> I replaced my panels with varnished African mahogany 1/4" plywood. Used 
> brass screws to hold them up. 
> Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
 
> -- Original message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jan 25, 
> 2016 13:07To: CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C36 
> Headliner Panels
> I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years 
> now.  Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a 
> plastics selector pack, () which contains 
> several different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying $57 for 
> a sample pack which may or may not include what I want.
> 
> I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to 
> mcmaster to see if they can match it.
> 
> It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several 
> posts which could be answered with a link to this material.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Steve,
> Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
> similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth 
> on the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 
> and used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. 
> Semi-industrial look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior 
> white so the matching is pretty close.
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Steve,
> 
> I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche' with 
> plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on one side 
> and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and was easy to cut and 
> finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.
> 
> I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record the 
> stock number.  It's really nice stuff. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what 
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what 
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar 
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36 MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 


___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy 
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large 
fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the spacing of the 
motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” 
wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several 
years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused by the motor 
induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 
4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would come out of the water coming 
down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough that the cracks showed up 
again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a second 
choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.
Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so 
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt 
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Mark,

I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing
plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it
is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts
with large fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the
spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing
plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part
Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing
caused by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come
across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would
come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough
that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a
20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra
long shaft 25” leg.

Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt
that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Chuck,

 

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked
the yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it
back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the
cold weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing
plate that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still
has gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to
keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal
backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three
bolts that go through the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is
not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.
The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended
removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so it
is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be honest, it seems like the mount itself
just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat.  I was wondering if it
needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between the mount and
the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?  

 

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25
Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual
racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard
and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the
lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the
transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the
choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine
plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far
larger than the mount.  Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not
designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards.I would have opted
for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging
batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when you
need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have several areas in our
cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts
so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

 

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.
Same with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not
sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day.

Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand
up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can
brag of that!

Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive
distraction during the work day!

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram, MA

 

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Also, I'm having the through hulls replaced with proper sea cocks as 
well.but thanks a lot for the thought though!

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!
Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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To change your list preferences, including unsu

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!
Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is yo

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Mark,

+1 on rebedding the chainplates. I don’t know how they look like on a C&C 25, 
but on a 24 they need rebedding every two-three years. However, even though I 
used 3M 4200 the last time I did it, I would recommend using butyl tape, 
instead of 4200. One of the best sources is Compass Marine (Main Sail) 
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape).

Marek
C270 “Legato”
ex. C&C 24 “Fennel”
Ottawa, ON

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 08:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 
since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, day 
sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the outboard and upgrading 
from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to reinforce the 
transom behind the outboard mount. I upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail 
Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market) 
and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around the motor mount caused by 
the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my 
transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the 
outboard mount that is far larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of 
these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards. I 
would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for 
charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when 
you need to get the motor running NOW. We also have several areas in our 
cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts so 
having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

 

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage. 
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks. Same 
with hoses and hose clamps. Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.

Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!

Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram, MA

 

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Ahmet,

 

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. 

 

That's all I have for a HIN.

 

Mark

 

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List  wrote:

  Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. 

  New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?

  I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump. 

  I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.

  I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.

  Ahmet

   

  On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello,

 

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these 
forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

 

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mark


On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I just bought one last August and love it.  

  A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.

  What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few 
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. 

  Ahmet

  1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"

  Winthrop, MA

   

  On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I 
as well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if 
anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,

Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25
Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual
racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard
and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the
lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the
transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the
choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine
plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far
larger than the mount.  Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not
designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards.I would have opted
for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging
batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when you
need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have several areas in our
cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts
so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

 

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.
Same with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not
sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day.

Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand
up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can
brag of that!

Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive
distraction during the work day!

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram, MA

 

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

 

Hi Ahmet,

 

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also
has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. 

 

That's all I have for a HIN.

 

Mark

 

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. 

New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?

I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.


I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing
winches.

I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.

Ahmet

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello,

 

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these
forums work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some
typing?

 

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri
25 so I appreciate the feedback. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mark


On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.  

A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.

What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few
things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. 

Ahmet

1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"

Winthrop, MA

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as
well as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if
anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about
her development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't
been able to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate
to know a little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


___

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of page at:
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Re: Stus-List C&C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Alex

We had a 1974 C&C designed Paceship P23 a number of years ago and went through 
the same process.  I found a used spinnaker from Atlantic Sail Traders I 
believe quite reasonably.  For the mast we purchased a stationary rig from The 
Binnacle in Halifax 
http://ca.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Spinnaker-Hardware/c28_123/p7595/FORESPAR-PAD-EYE-CURVED-BASE-PE-3SC/product_info.html
 which we attached to mast.  I was lucky in that we had a collapsible whisker 
pole from our former C&C 36 that I could use for a spinnaker pole.  We attached 
a block outside at top of mast as spin halyard and ran the downhaul to the tack 
area for genoa.  We then managed to use the sail only twice ever before we sold 
the boat that same season.  At least we could fly it

Our friends had a 1974 C&C 25 “Dry Red”.  They purchased a spinnaker and pole 
from another C&C25 owner who had no plans to fly the spinnaker and wanted to 
add a dodger.  Andy installed all the necessary hardware but I believe a lot of 
it was already I place

Good luck

Mike
Persistence



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 5:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Spinnaker Pole Lift install

Alex,
I own a C&C 25 and had slowly been acquiring the poles and pieces to fly the 
used symmetric spinnaker I bought several years back.While having a padeye 
on deck for your downhaul may be ideal, I found it easier to use a block 
shackled to the mast step on deck and lead the downhaul to it and back to the 
cockpit.  I do find having a track for the spinnaker pole to be important, 
mostly because I also have a whisker pole for the Genoa for cruising class 
racing or casual shorthanded sailing and the inboard pole height is very 
different (lower) for a 150 genoa that it is for my spinnaker.
At the end of the day, unless you are doing a heck of a lot of dead downwind 
sailing specifically for racing, you may be better served with buying a used 
asymmetric spinnaker that will use a masthead halyard and no other specialized 
poles, fittings or hardware that require more holes in decks and masts 
(generally not the best thing for 30+ year old boats anyway).  Since you’d 
rarely fly an A-Sail along with your Jib, it would also eliminate the need for 
a second set of cockpit winches and the sail would be much easier to deploy 
when shorthanded which means you would use it more.
Best regards,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 mk1

Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Wolfe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Wolfe mailto:mambome...@yahoo.com>>
Subject: Stus-List C&C Spinnaker Pole Lift install


Hello CNC 24 owners and other experts,

I am going to rig the hardware necessary to fly the chute which came with the 
boat. What I don't have is a fitting on the mast to accommodate a shackle for 
the pole topping lift, a ring or track and car, nor a foreguy/downhaul pad eye. 
 I am not sure what  fitting and mounting procedure would be best, especially 
for the topping lift fitting.  I am a little reluctant about drilling into the 
mast.



Your help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Alex Wolfe
C&C 24 Shaka
Miami, FL

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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 MARK 1

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Jimmy,

That's really neat that you bought one of the first one's off the factory 
floor.   Thanks for the information.  I think this little boat is going to be a 
blast.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> owned c&c 25 mk1 one of the first back in jan 1973  purchased from c&c sales 
> in bronte oakville show room...raced it very succesfully on lake ontario that 
> summer then in late sept  left for south  ...thru oswego canal  erie canal 
> hudson river to atlantic  sailed coast to florida ...ft lauderdale...was 
> approached by c&c sales at fla. dock  ,,,offered by c&c much larger custom 
> built bruckmann yacht.,  the c&c in house custom builder,..took the 
> dealdelivered 25 to ryder  fla yacht sales ..sad parting  but beginning 
> of a life time adventurethey had firm offer for my 25 from person who we 
> raced against in his c&c designed 27ftmust say of 6 yachts i have sailed 
> &owned  the mk1 25  was best performer  ,best  fun boat, one of best 
> built,,,would have loved to keep both but could not...tried to buy it years 
> later,.but owner not interested25 mk1 best boat i ever ownedbuilt by 
> hinterholler mfg in n on lake  the standard production line of c&c in feb 
> 1973this model  
 began production mid 1972  & sales slow until 1973..yacht designed by in house 
design with very close direction ..by both georges,cuthbertson...&cassian   
second owner of my 25  won more than it share of races over the years 
.jimmy  c&c design  redline 41 mk1  #1of two built..  currently.southern 
british  columbia canada
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

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