Re: Stus-List Navtec Rebuild or?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Lew Townsend in Seattle does all my hydraulic repairs. (206} 498-7282. Not
only did he do the repairs, he stayed in touch with me to make sure
everything was working ok.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Moorage Gig Harbor Dec 1-15th

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There's lots of room to anchor in Gig Harbor, and it's free.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Nov 30, 2019 at 12:36 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi list,
> We made a late decision to join the Gig Harbor Christmas Boat Parade and
> are looking for guest moorage for Dec 1 -15th. Given the off season, we did
> not expect this to be an issue, but other yacht clubs have reserved all the
> guest moorage for the event. Does anybody have a lead on a place to keep a
> nice 30' C in Gig Harbor for two weeks? We not need power, but would not
> mind. We have $500k liability insurance.
> Thank you!
> Kevin
> 503 875 3493
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated coverage...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Speak to a supervisor. There should be no depreciation for those parts.

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 2:37 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Geico marine insurance is depreciating my anchor roller, blow pulpit and
> stanchions by 80% because they say those parts are from 1985...
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>  Original message ----
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> Date: 11/10/19 5:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated
> coverage...
>
> I have Geico Insurance through BoatUS. Agreed value is agreed value. They
> only depreciate items that are depreciable, like sails or the engine. A
> couple of years ago, my boom cracked after getting hung up on a crab pot.
> Geico paid the full cost of replacing the boom - parts and labor, with no
> depreciation. I suspect your new insurance company's policy does the same
> thing.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 1:39 PM David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I may be repeating myself here, but it bears repeating.  Check your boat
>> coverage.  BoatIUS had reimbursement coverage before they switched to GEICO
>> as their carrier last year.  Now it is depreciated value coverage.
>> Reimbursement coverage pays for replacing damages up to the agreed value.
>> Depreciated coverage drops to 20% over time to where most of our boats
>> would only receive 20% of fixing damages!   I switched coverage when I
>> learned of this and I still pay the same premium.
>>
>>
>>
>> I bring this up because one of our brethren has been caught by this issue
>> after a recent incident.  If your broker cannot find a reimbursement
>> carrier, let me know.  I will provide the contact info of my guy.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=k2Lt-SG6o9I03vcyylQHhk3NCZ4wYxvCecLDss6-pRQ=9rx_5cAXI0FUZ8v4mk3THOkZozwGMz4wlqzriOi9sak=
>>
>>
>
> 
> *How To Fix Aging Skin (Do This Every Day)*
> Beverly Hills MD
>
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__thirdpartyoffers.juno.com_TGL3142_5dc890e14ee6810e0552ast03duc=DwMGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=BFgtknZgpeUxRRpefyPNfrexTYluRyV_5NRQk-Fzt7s=UohjJ82Qdhw2gvJyLArQTwkkrYtrEfuweAezLAzQook=>
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5dc890e14ee6810e0552ast03duc
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__thirdpartyoffers.juno.com_TGL3142_5dc890e14ee6810e0552ast03duc=DwMGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=BFgtknZgpeUxRRpefyPNfrexTYluRyV_5NRQk-Fzt7s=UohjJ82Qdhw2gvJyLArQTwkkrYtrEfuweAezLAzQook=>
> [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad]
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated coverage...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have Geico Insurance through BoatUS. Agreed value is agreed value. They
only depreciate items that are depreciable, like sails or the engine. A
couple of years ago, my boom cracked after getting hung up on a crab pot.
Geico paid the full cost of replacing the boom - parts and labor, with no
depreciation. I suspect your new insurance company's policy does the same
thing.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 1:39 PM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I may be repeating myself here, but it bears repeating.  Check your boat
> coverage.  BoatIUS had reimbursement coverage before they switched to GEICO
> as their carrier last year.  Now it is depreciated value coverage.
> Reimbursement coverage pays for replacing damages up to the agreed value.
> Depreciated coverage drops to 20% over time to where most of our boats
> would only receive 20% of fixing damages!   I switched coverage when I
> learned of this and I still pay the same premium.
>
>
>
> I bring this up because one of our brethren has been caught by this issue
> after a recent incident.  If your broker cannot find a reimbursement
> carrier, let me know.  I will provide the contact info of my guy.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I used 9mm cast acrylic, applying it with Plexus. Don't use extruded, as
it's weaker. Lexan is stronger than acrylic, but it scratches more easily.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 7:38 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm getting ready to do the windows project and have read the prior
> threads about it (plus the helpful Boatworks youtube video).
>
> When others did this project, on Landfall 38 or similar sized C's, did
> you use 3/8" thickness or 1/4" on the new windows?
>
> My existing windows are 3/8", thrubolted with black sealant. The sealant
> squeezed out to the edges due to the thrubolting, so the windows are very
> much flush with the inner fiberglass. I'm wondering when I switch to VHB,
> will the tape thickness (0.045 in / 1.1mm) cause the windows to protrude
> noticeably?
>
> Paul on SV Johanna Rose (LF38) says on his blog that he used 1/4"
> thickness (Lexan/polycarbonate, which I am not doing).
>
> Another thought is if others used 1/4" acrylic, will I be able to flex
> 3/8" acrylic enough to fit the contour of the hull? 3/8" is pretty stiff.
> I've read about the different methods people used to hold the windows in
> place until the VHB cures and am thinking of using the weighted plank
> method (place wood boards at an angle to the exterior and put weights on
> them to apply pressure) plus just manually holding in place for the first
> 10-15 min.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Free VHF Cable..

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I'm getting a new antenna, and can use the cable if it's not spoken for. I
already made a donation to Stu, but I'll make another one.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Oct 29, 2019 at 5:34 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> is that for going up the mast?  so like 58' usable?  I might be able to
> use that
>
> Danny
> On 10/29/2019 8:26 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I ordered 65’ of LMR-240 Ultra-Flex VHF cable and when it arrived I found
> a casing breach at about 7’ in from one end.  ShowMeCables, to their
> credit, immediately shipped a replacement, at no charge.  For shipping and
> a donation to Stu…anybody want?
>
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> 
>
>
>
> 
> *Sad News For Meghan Markle And Prince Harry*
> track.volutrk.com
>
> 
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5db8318ec6504318e4a93st01duc
> 
> [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad]
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>
>
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Stus-List Boats for Sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There's a C 24 for sale at Rose City YC in Portland, Oregon. Price is
$5500. For more info contact Jim Johnsrud at (503) 281-2610.

Also, there's a C 35 Mk III for sale by Jake Brdersen In Virginia. Price
is $25,500. For more information contact the broker, Ron McClain, at (757)
434-2007.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
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Re: Stus-List Boat Projects info?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Wally is in La Cruz De Huanacaxtl, about 25 km from Puerto Vallarta. I miss
his list entries.

Alan Bergen

On Sun, Oct 6, 2019 at 8:04 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, I heard from Wal a couple of weeks ago, and he mentioned that he
> doesn’t want to pay for web hosting for his site any more (more $$$ for
> tequila?).  He has archived all of the content, so it hasn’t just
> disappeared forever.
>
> He’s still in Mexico; he’s been down there for ten years now.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Sep 30, 2019, at 1:16 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects
> and sent his site link, http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>  to
> a friend. I wanted to send Wally’s Stella Blue site link too, but it may
> have disappeared.  Anyone seen Wally, last in Mexico somewhere or know the
> status of his site?
>
> His site should have been archived on the C site and Paul should get a
> Wally award!
>
> Their info and support have helped so many on this list.
>
> Thanks all, Lee
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List October is here

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thanks for the reminder, Stu, and thanks for all you do for us.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland,OR

On Wed, Oct 2, 2019 at 2:41 PM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers
>
> For us Canadians, Thanksgiving celebrations are just a few days away. And
> it is time to get out your spooky costumes and go scare the neighbours.
>
> But most important, October has been traditionally the fund raising month
> for this list and the Photo Album.  I am sure that every one on this list
> has benefited from the knowledge readily available from our members.  Maybe
> it even saved you mega-bucks and kept your yacht floating for a few more
> years.
>
> The bills keep coming in and somebody has to pay them.  Fixed retirement
> income doesn’t cut it.  So I am asking all of our subscribers to help pay
> the bills and keep this list going and being one of the best on the
> internet.
>
> Each and every contribution is greatly appreciated no matter the amount..
> If you want to support this list and the Photo Album using PayPal – go to
> this link --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> Checks, money orders, etc., can be made payable to:
> Stu Murray
> 33 Langton Rd
> London, ON, Canada
> N5V 2L9
>
> Thanking everyone in advance
> Stu
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat Projects info?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I sent Wally a Facebook message, asking about his web site. Hopefully it's
still around some place.


On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 11:17 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects
> and sent his site link, http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>  to
> a friend. I wanted to send Wally’s Stella Blue site link too, but it may
> have disappeared.  Anyone seen Wally, last in Mexico somewhere or know the
> status of his site?
>
> His site should have been archived on the C site and Paul should get a
> Wally award!
>
> Their info and support have helped so many on this list.
>
> Thanks all, Lee
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Without load, engine runs to full rpm, but... (Yanmar 3JH2E)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Since you have never been able to get it up to maximum rpm, it does sound
like it's over pitched.

If your engine speed is now lower than before, it might be your filters. I
use a 10 micron primary, and a 2 micron secondary. You might also make sure
all your fuel lines are tight, and that you're not sucking air along with
fuel.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 11:53 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We have a 1994 C/40+ with a Yanmar 3JH2E engine.   Without load, it
> will rev to the 3600 - 3800 range.  I have checked the tachometer using a
> handheld electronic unit, and it is generally accurate (I think within
> about 50 rpm).
>
> The transmission is a Kanzaki KBW10 with a gear ratio of 2.14.  Historically,
> I have never been able to get the engine above 3200 rpms, and I strongly
> suspect the 3 blade fixed prop has too much pitch.  Thus my recent
> questions about switching to a folding/feathering prop.  According to the
> survey, the prop is a fixed, 3 blade 16 x 10 prop.
>
> A few months ago, I noticed upon running the engine at about 3000 rpm
> thinking that running it about 85% of max would be best, it started running
> rough when in gear and at low speeds.  I added injector cleaner, replaced
> the filters, and even went so far as to visually inspect the tank for
> water, dirt, etc.  That visual inspection showed a reasonably clean tank
> (no evidence of water, a few black spots on the bottom, but they were very
> well attached to tank, no loose particulate matter).  At that time, I ran
> quite a bit of fuel through the racor using a small 12 volt pump, using it
> as a vacuum to suck up any fine dirt or water out of the  tank.  I found no
> evidence of such in the racor bowl.
>
> Recently, the engine has become reluctant to go any faster than 2800
> rpms.  The bottom is dove regularly, and though there are some minor nicks
> in the prop according to the diver, they are nothing to worry about.  The
> engine still revs to full speed in neutral, does not smoke either white or
> black regardless of the throttle position, and starts easily.  The rough
> running in gear has now gone away, and I credit that to the injector
> cleaner.
>
> So, a few questions for the collective brain trust:
>
> 1).  Do you think our boat is overpropped?  What should the right prop be
> if it were a fixed, 3 blade?
>
> 2).  What would you expect is the reason the engine does not want to
> acheive the 3200 rpm it used to, keeping in mind it is not smoking,
> missing, or dying?
>
> Looking forward to your thoughts,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C/40+
> "Astralis"
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine compartment bilge pump and blower

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The bilge pump and blower might have a common return. Follow the (probably)
black wires from the bilge pump and the blower to see whether you have a
bad ground.

The blower on my boat has an in-line fuse, located close to the blower
switch, if you want to check that out.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 6:31 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interestingly,  I had a bilge pump issue and thought it was the pump and
> then the switch and finally found the wires had corroded and  broken at a
> set of butt connectors hidden as the wires exited the bilge to run up to
> the switch panel.
>
> Food for thought,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> Astralis
>
>
> _
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need advice - bilge filling

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still
filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the
mast and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast
step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see whether water is entering that
way.
Using a felt marking pen, draw a line all around the bilge. If water is
entering above the water line, it will dissolve the markings giving you a
hint on where to look.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 9:56 AM David Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for some help with my bilge filling every two days or so.  I
> pulled up all of the floor boards this past weekend on my 1980 C 40.  All
> of the through hulls are dry - none are leaking. But the bilge water level
> just slowly creeps up.  I'm guessing the issue is with the keel or keel
> bolts which all look like new?
>
> Can anyone offer advise on my best approach to slow the intake - haul and
> inspect keel?  Tighten bolts (how is that done? they are huge)
>
> While I'm here I will throw another question out - both port and starboard
> fresh water tanks leak.  What is best approach to that fix - tear out and
> replace?
>
> Any advise to these two issue is most welcome.
>
> --Dave
> Terrapin Flyer
> New Haven, CT
>
>
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Stus-List Graphics

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

BoatUS is having a Labor Day sale on lettering and graphics. 30% off till
September 6. They did mine, and I am happy with the job they did.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It could be your mixing elbow. Remove it and see whether it's clogged. If
yes, you can scrape it out, or have a radiator shop boil it out.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 5:14 PM Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It
> also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at
> the dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be
> able to get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with
> no issue, but I'm only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle
> wide it in gear it initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I
> replaced the fuel filter and the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on
> what to look for and approaches to debug?
>
> I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but
> nothing is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly well.
>
> So my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice
> perspective based on reading)
>
> Governor is faulty and needs adjustment
> Injector faulty
> Fuel pump issue
> Air/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out)
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Interior upholstery yardage?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Go to Sailrite's web site. They have "How To" videos, including one on
making cushions, including how to measure for the amount of yardage you'll
need.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 6:24 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Good morning all. Has anybody reupholstered the interior cushions of their
> 33–2, and if so, do you happen to know or recall the quantity of fabric
> required?  Many thanks!
> Dave
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Rustoleum in a spray can. You can get it in flat and glossy black.

Alan Bergen

On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 9:20 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty
> around the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like
> some other gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I
> don't want to just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind
> of paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent
> this from happening again?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List old AH4000 drive help

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When mine slipped, I replaced the belt, and it cured the problem. If you
want to tension the belt, you have to remove the rubber(?) plug, and there
is a cam that you adjust. The lever on mine has been popping out since I
bought the boat (nineteen years ago). I use one of those things that feels
like a wire coat hanger covered with rubber to hold the lever in place.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 7:11 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have 4 old drives or parts of drives. I have finally got to the point
> none of them work perfectly :(
> 1 of them will randomly release. You need to bungee cord the lever. The
> other one slips. I can only motor at 3/4s throttle or it can't hold the
> rudder :(
> So..anyone know how to make the slipping one quit doing that or the
> releasing one quit doing that? Google-fu is not much help, almost
> everything refers to the newer generation of drives. There is some talk of
> a half inch plug one can remove to adjust belt tension. There seems to be
> one of these on my old units, but how to get it off without destroying it
> is not obvious or even if there is anything behind there to adjust.
> BTW - I have 2 decades-old belts and one new one. The new one is on the
> slipping version.
> Joe
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List Survey recommendations (1988 C 44)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Congratulations on your purchase.

Check and replace all hoses that look old, especially fuel fill hose and
cockpit drain hoses. You can get a service kit for your bilge pump. it's an
easy fix. In fact all of the things you mentioned are things you can do
yourself, if you're handy. That being said, I wouldn't use Gallery Marine
for anything (based on my experience with them).

Remember the C rendezvous at Telegraph Harbor Marina on Thetis Island,
August 9-11. Register link at cncphotoalbum.com.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:52 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi listers,
>
> My wife and I recently acquired "Odessa", a 1988 C 44 and we are going
> over the mechanical inspection / survey recs.  They are as follows:
>
> RECOMMENDATIONS FROM MECHANICAL INSPECTION:
>
>1. Replace seal washer on transmission dipstick.
>2. Port rear mount should be replaced in near future due to extent of
>rust, most likely has caused delamination of rubber pucks.
>3. Replace anti siphon valve with a Vetus type that has a hose spigot
>connection to allow any leaking water to run into the bilge.
>4. Clean and repaint air canister.
>5. Tachometer sender terminals and wiring need further cleaning and or
>replacing.
>6. Now that the tachometer is functioning, the boat should be taken
>out on sea trial to determine maximum rpm. On this engine it should be
>3600, if hull. Nd propeller are clean.
>7. Replaced cracked raw water intake hose.
>8. Secure loose batteries and replace all wing nuts with hex type nuts.
>9. Clean and repaint the engine as best as possible to preserve its
>condition
>
>
>
> RECOMMENDATIONS FROM SURVEY:
>
>1. Auxiliary engine exhaust hose in the port aft cockpit locker shows
>moderate chafe from contact with transom fitting fasteners. Hose section
>between FRP elbow/riser and transom discharge to renew. Ensure any corroded
>hose clamps are replaced. Urge better support for FRP riser elbow.
>2. Fuel tank shut-off valve was moist/fuel stained at time of
>inspection. To clean and inspect for possible weeping connections.
>3. Manual bilge pump in cockpit does not appear operative. Pump to
>service and repair.
>
>
> I'm a pretty handy individual but my expertise is primarily electrical.
> I'm wondering which of these would be best done myself, and which I should
> hire out.  We're fortunate enough to have Gallery Marine just a few blocks
> from our marina here in Seattle so I'm sure they'd be happy to do some of
> this ($135/hr though).
>
> Thanks in advance for your input,
>
> Patrick & Kari Gateley
> "Odessa" 1988 C 44
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Sailboat surveyor in Salem area

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Are you referring to Salem, OR, or Salem, MA? If Salem, OR. I can recommend
Alison Mazon (503) 358-6983 or Joe Derie (503) 953-4008. I've used both of
them, and they are excellent, reliable surveyors. They're both in Portland,
but that's only about thirty-five miles from Salem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 5:37 PM Blair Clark via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone feel confident to recommend a yacht surveyor in the Salem
> area? If so who?
>
> Hull, electrical engine.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Blair
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* July 15, 2019 11:00:25 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bulkhead replacement project 
>
>
> No not on Persistence but on a couple of J22s.  I decided to document the
> replacement of the bulkhead on this latest J22 and post the progress on the
> web.  If anyone is interested it can be viewed at
> http://www.hoytsailing.com/J22Project/J22No6.htm
> 
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Frers 33 #16
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or
> there is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump,
> I've ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long
> summer trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate
> earlier so I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest
> keel stud.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are
>> designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is,
>> there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and
>> switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump.
>> Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
>>
>> No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a
>> 3 way connection.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
>> area (bilge) of the boat.
>>
>> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
>> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
>> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
>> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
>> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
>> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
>> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
>> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
>> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
>> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
>> <2024633WY121.jpg>
>>
>> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
>> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
>> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
>> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>>
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List C 29 MK I stuck halyard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Two possibilities:

1. It's possible that any loose wiring near the sheave at the top of the
mast is getting pulled into the sheave. It happened to me, and I had to
splice all the wires at the masthead. Try pulling the halyard back down.
Even a little will help. Then tension the wiring from where it exits the
mast (probably inside the cabin where the mast enters the cabin). Finally
try hoisting again.

2. If your halyard is twisted around another halyard, it won't be able to
move. Try loosening any other halyards, and then try to move the jib
halyard up or down.

If neither of those suggestions work, you'll have to go up the mast to see
where the problem lies, or drop the mast.

In either case, don't try to force it. You could make matters worse. It
shouldn't take much more force than you usually apply, to resolve the
problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 8:11 AM Paul via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello listers,
> One of my 2 wire-rope jib halyards got “stuck” doing a pre-start sail
> change before a race last week. Wind was 18 knots and gusting so the sail
> was flogging around a bit. Water was pretty flat due to offshore breeze so
> not a lot of pitch/roll action of the boat.
> Most of the wire is exposed (shackle is about 4 feet off the deck). I
> initially thought that the wire might have jumped the sheave but a trip to
> the masthead revealed nothing - sheave turns smoothly and cable is not
> fouled at the mast head fitting.
> Am unable to budge the halyard up or down, but there is a tiny amount of
> play when changing direction of pull (maybe an inch or so).
> A cable conduit was installed 2 years ago but there have not been any
> issues to date relative to the running of internal halyards.
>
> Currently using the spin halyard as an alternative (the other jib halyard
> runs through a restrainer for the furler swivel and the luff on the #1 is
> too long to fit the furling  gear.
>
> I’m wondering if the catch is happening near the top where the
> wire-to-rope transition is.  Perhaps at the upper shroud toggles?
>
> Has anyone encountered this before and resolved without pulling the mast?
>
> Add put a line on the shackle and run it through a snatch block at the
> stem head fitting and back to a halyard winch and give it slightly stronger
> pull than just arm strength?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul D. Saxton
> C 29 MK I
> Boomerang
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Frozen Perko Door latch

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I seem to recall you remove it by unscrewing the handle from the other
side. The handle and square, threaded shaft are one unit, and unscrew
together.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 7:04 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So our door latch need replacing...unscrewed round knob and cannot knock
> out post to remove. Other than PC Blaster et all I dont think I m
> missing any mechanical fasteners holding it in?
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I got my replacement pump from this company:  https://marinepumpdirect.com/.
Looks identical to the Yanmar pump, at half the price.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 11:12 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn
>
>
>
> We attach our main halyard to end of boom when main is not up.  This
> allows us to raise the boom.  We do not have a topping lift
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matthew
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matthew Schlanger
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>
>
>
> Thank you for all who responded.
>
> FYI
>
>
>
> As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good
> idea, I am opting to buy a new pump.
>
>
>
> I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
>
> http://www.depcopump.com/
> 
>
> I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.
>
>
>
> It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
>
> This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was
> similar - $528
>
> But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were
> marinized in Europe. - $242
>
> Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
>
> I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had
> the other pump or substituted for it.
>
> The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think
> has a split shaft.
>
> Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.
>
>
>
> I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or
> sell one.
>
>
>
> Thanks again.
>
>
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
>
> C 35 Mk3
>
> Nyack, NY
>
>
>
> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Fix the pump if possible
>
>
>
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger 
>
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>
>
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for
> my Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
>
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
>
>
> ___
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C smile repair document

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here's my write up, from when the repair was done many years ago:

Dropped the keel. Flushed out the keel bolt holes.  The forward bolt hole
(which was under the mast) had a void around it, and a terrible smell when
it was flushed out. The yard ground the surface of the keel and the stub,
filled the void with a gallon of epoxy (yes, a gallon), and epoxied the
keel to the stub. New washers were fabricated (large square stainless,
tapered so that the old washers and nut would lay flat against the new
washers). The old washers were replaced with the newly fabricated washers,
and then placed on top of the new washers with the nuts torqued to spec.
Finally the smile was covered with fiberglass and epoxy. After more than
ten years, the smile hasn't returned, and I haven't had to torque the nuts
again.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR


On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 12:22 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> I take some issue with the problem normally being toque on the bolts . . .
>
> I believe the biggest reason is there is a plastic boat sump (which
> distorts slightly) up against a solid cast lead blob which does Not distort
> at all.
>
> We chased that problem for years and minimized it, but a fiberglass sump
> flexes – the curved fiberglass shape just outboard of the washers
> straightens and returns slightly so that outboard area cannot be solidly
> connected to the lead.
>
> I’d haven’t seen the ‘smile’ so large that there is any real worry, but I
> may have just not been around enough  . . .
>
> The repairs suggested certainly do a great job in making it go away, so
> I’m all for that.
>
> Personally, I know the safety factor of the bolts holding the keel on is 5
> : 1, so there is no structural worry.
>
> On my boat, I just epoxy over it and accept that I’ll have to do it again
> . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> *Rob Ball  **C 34*
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you have a slot in the mast extrusion, you can drill a hole through from
port to starboard, and insert a clevis pin. It's easily replaceable if you
lose it, and it's only a couple of dollars.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 10:40 AM Sam Salter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Those are called “Mast Gates”!
> Do a search, there are a few sites that sell them.
> I think Binnacle Marine also sell them.
>
> Sam Salter
> C 26  Liquorice
> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>
> On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:13 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Same here. 2 pieces each side of track  that screw inro mast close the
> track. I did find a piece shown on board so not sure if its original
> method.
> John
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
>
>
> On Jun 9, 2019, at 12:10 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> My 33-2 has a simple screw on plate that closes a widening of the sail
> track. If I lost mine I’d make another out of a piece of aluminum.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:38 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> There are a couple different types of track stop.  You have to know what
> type of track cross section you have.  Round, flat, or tides marine (strong
> track) all come to mind.  Round and flat can be found at most chandleries.
>
>
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--sail-track-stops--P002_068_001_505
> 
>
> For the strong track system you'll need to contact tide marine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello:
>>
>> 1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail
>> slides in the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?
>>
>> Ray Macklin
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee WI.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>> 
>>
>>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello:
>>
>> 1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail
>> slides in the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?
>>
>> Ray Macklin
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee WI.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> 
>
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> 

Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Sounds like the sender. I replaced mine this year.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 7:25 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off
> after having motored about 10 minutes (and previously an hour earlier
> motored 20 minutes or so out).  I have a Westerbeke 20B2 diesel in my
> boat.  We have the admiral style control panel so that has both the
> temperature and oil pressure gauges as well as the alar buzzer.  Everything
> looked normal on the gauges with the oil pressure reading about 40 psi at
> 2500-2700 rpm (manual says 35 - 60 is normal so maybe slightly on the low
> side but still in range).  The same buzzer is connected to the over
> temperature alarm as well but temperature also seemed fine and cooling
> water was flowing.  I shut down the engine and checked the oil level -
> which was just fine, right where it had been earlier in the day at the full
> mark.  Given that we were in the middle of the channel and everything
> seemed to check out I ended up deciding to start her again and motored the
> remaining 10 minutes or so back to the marina (with the buzzer going the
> whole time).  The oil pressure stayed at 40 psi until I slowed her to an
> idle at which point it dropped to 25-30 psi.  I think that is pretty
> typical.  According the the manual the buzzer should sound at below 10 psi
> as it does when you first start the engine.
>
> My question is:  Do I assume that the sending switch for the oil pressure
> alarm is faulty and order a replacement?  Is there anything else I should
> check or verify to ensure that the oil pump is in fact working correctly
> and the oil is getting distributed through the engine?  Is there another
> part I should look into that could be causing this behavior?
>
> Thanks!
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a crew spot in Seattle

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have crew driving to Tacoma, tomorrow morning for the Summer Vashon race.
Let me know if you want to join us. It's a day race, and they'll return to
Portland tomorrow.

Alan Bergen
Thirsty
503-358-6981

On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 10:31 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m traveling to Seattle for business this week and if any listers are
> looking for crew next Tuesday or Wednesday nights, I’d love to get a ride.
> I’m available for anything from rail meet, grinder, mast, sewer, sail
> trim.  Not a great driver and tactics/nav in a new body of water may not be
> prudent.
> Give me a shout off list if there’s a seat to be had.  I’ll bring adult
> beverages...
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shore Power at a Slip

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you have a charger that senses the batteries' charge, you'll do no harm
if you keep it on all the time. I keep my charger and refrigeration on all
the time. The power for them are not routed through the master switch. The
rest of the boat is powered off. I pay a fixed amount for electricity,
regardless of how much, if any, I use. Good luck with your new slip.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 8:02 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> The Enterprise will soon be moving to a full-time slip location — a first
> in my boating history. So, a question for all of your slip owners out there
> with shore power:
>
> Do you keep your shore power connected, your charger running, your 12V
> system on, fridge and other accessories on at all times, even if you’ll be
> away from the boat for a length of time?
>
> Are there any negatives associated with doing that? I’m used to a mooring
> where everything is shut down when you leave the boat.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Will a Shop Vac work?

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:59 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water
> separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what
> looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not
> fit thru the drain.
>
> I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound made from
> diesel fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the unit, I
> don't know how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This
> Racor is almost impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I
> do will be a PITA.
>
> Any suggestions on what to do--if anything?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
> Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories
>
> I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he
> was coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He
> asked if I thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes
> and asked when was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35
> years!
>
> I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.
> Google it for a picture.
>
> We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit
> twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the
> dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic
> permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud
> all around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean
> it.  Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.
> Reinstalled it and diesel runs fine.
>
> On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this
> weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started
> easing into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element
> lasted over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank
> couple months ago and the fuel looked very clean.
>
> You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My previous boat with an A4 engine would slow down or stall, when running
at full throttle. When i backed off on the throttle, the engine ran fine.
Problem turned out to be a clogged filter on the end of the pickup tube.
Cleaned it out, and the engine ran fine after that. Did C put filters on
the end of the pickup tube? Are they put only on gas engines?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose city YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:15 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he
> was coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He
> asked if I thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes
> and asked when was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35
> years!
>
> I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.
> Google it for a picture.
>
> We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit
> twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the
> dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic
> permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud
> all around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean
> it.  Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.
> Reinstalled it and diesel runs fine.
>
> On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this
> weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started
> easing into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element
> lasted over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank
> couple months ago and the fuel looked very clean.
>
> You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anyone have a prop?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Doug: I don't know when the yard sent the prop to PYI. Why not call them
and ask? You might ask whether they could expedite the refurbishing.
425-355-3669  i...@pyiinc.com  web: www.pyiinc.com.

On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 11:09 AM sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
> How long did it take to get your Max prop refurbished? I need to do mine
> and am debating whether to do it know or wait till winter.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/27/19 20:32 (GMT-08:00)
> To: C 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone have a prop?
>
> I recently had my three blade Max-prop refurbished. My engine was running
> rough, so I thought it might have been the cutless bearing. While the boat
> was out of the water for bottom paint, the yard noticed the prop blades
> were wobbly and the shaft was worn, in addition to the worn cutless
> bearing. The prop was sent back for refurbishing ( It came back looking
> like a brand new prop.), a new shaft was machined and a new cutless bearing
> was installed. The crew and I noticed a significant difference in how
> smooth the engine runs, and I get more boat speed than before the work was
> done.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 7:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Could you describe the problem you are experiencing with your prop?  I
>> want to be on guard for problems with mine.
>>
>> Have you talked to Hutch at PYI (Max Prop)?  He may be able to help you
>> with minimizing the out of service time.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 27, 2019, 9:33 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello listers...anyone have a fixed three blade propeller,  16x9 RH for
>>> a 1 1/8 shaft?
>>> It's for my 37+ who has a problem with the Max Prop that is currently
>>> installed.  I want to get a quick solution, and use the fixed blade for
>>> this year, while I send the MaxProp for reconditioning.
>>> Just hoping someone has a fixed prop languishing in their garage and
>>> would either sell or loan for a year!!!  Anyone help?  Boat is out of
>>> commission until I secure a solution!  Thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>> *Chuck Saur*
>>>
>>> *Board Chair  *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Olivia's Gift*517 490-5926 Cell
>>>
>>> 616 977-5766 Fax
>>> www.oliviasgift.org
>>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.oliviasgift.org_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vDBGXwiD31tsJ2O1z1PnHim92Ost62N942Hx3HXx89M=1GtZteTUJ69z-zI6xfqDfd2lr6DkwIjldWRGQKp740Y=>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: OG logo]
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vDBGXwiD31tsJ2O1z1PnHim92Ost62N942Hx3HXx89M=DEohROPv_vPE1DzwwPg4SQqYDlqMtX9pBUSGFp3eoYI=>
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List Anyone have a prop?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I recently had my three blade Max-prop refurbished. My engine was running
rough, so I thought it might have been the cutless bearing. While the boat
was out of the water for bottom paint, the yard noticed the prop blades
were wobbly and the shaft was worn, in addition to the worn cutless
bearing. The prop was sent back for refurbishing ( It came back looking
like a brand new prop.), a new shaft was machined and a new cutless bearing
was installed. The crew and I noticed a significant difference in how
smooth the engine runs, and I get more boat speed than before the work was
done.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 7:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Could you describe the problem you are experiencing with your prop?  I
> want to be on guard for problems with mine.
>
> Have you talked to Hutch at PYI (Max Prop)?  He may be able to help you
> with minimizing the out of service time.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 27, 2019, 9:33 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello listers...anyone have a fixed three blade propeller,  16x9 RH for a
>> 1 1/8 shaft?
>> It's for my 37+ who has a problem with the Max Prop that is currently
>> installed.  I want to get a quick solution, and use the fixed blade for
>> this year, while I send the MaxProp for reconditioning.
>> Just hoping someone has a fixed prop languishing in their garage and
>> would either sell or loan for a year!!!  Anyone help?  Boat is out of
>> commission until I secure a solution!  Thanks!
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>>
>> *Board Chair  *
>>
>>
>>
>> *Olivia's Gift*517 490-5926 Cell
>>
>> 616 977-5766 Fax
>> www.oliviasgift.org
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> [image: OG logo]
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vDBGXwiD31tsJ2O1z1PnHim92Ost62N942Hx3HXx89M=DEohROPv_vPE1DzwwPg4SQqYDlqMtX9pBUSGFp3eoYI=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anyone have a prop?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that your shaft was machined for the Maxi. Another prop may
not fit.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iii thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 6:33 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello listers...anyone have a fixed three blade propeller,  16x9 RH for a
> 1 1/8 shaft?
> It's for my 37+ who has a problem with the Max Prop that is currently
> installed.  I want to get a quick solution, and use the fixed blade for
> this year, while I send the MaxProp for reconditioning.
> Just hoping someone has a fixed prop languishing in their garage and would
> either sell or loan for a year!!!  Anyone help?  Boat is out of commission
> until I secure a solution!  Thanks!
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
>
> *Board Chair  *
>
>
>
> *Olivia's Gift*517 490-5926 Cell
>
> 616 977-5766 Fax
> www.oliviasgift.org
> 
>
>
>
> [image: OG logo]
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=cbBXNnCGtUNVD6MbUF5bj4OaAZFy-ATALk80AqvX8x0=bf3EdojoofJ3XG_n69xvCMmWJiYetYaC9be5ZfuCn7U=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I keep an air freshener in the head. I also noticed that the hoses
sometimes collect moisture on the outside, which become mildewed and emit
an odor. Bleach corrects that problem.

On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 10:05 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I like the idea of adding a tee in the sink drain for a fresh water flush
> - thanks!
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
>
>
> On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 9:13 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I have seen heads discharge loops vented with a small hose led to an
>> external vent.  Some were with inline check valves but some without.   The
>> later was more common for anti-siphon at the raw water to exhaust mixing
>> below.
>>
>> I thought about added a hose to my head discharge loop if it became a
>> problem.   The longer the little rubber valve work, the more likely I’ll
>> replace it as Dennis has done.
>>
>> The only head odor problem I have had was due to stagnate seawater in the
>> inlet to head.   I fixed this by teeing the head inlet to the head sink
>> drain.  When I leave the boat for an extended period, I now close off the
>> seacock, fill the sink with some fresh water, and pump it through the
>> head.  No more stench.
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>> 
>>
>> On May 24, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Date: Fri, 24 May 2019 09:08:21 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor
>> Message-ID: <1920a42c-7848-4bbc-bb20-c9d5985fd...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> The anti-siphon valve on the vented loop is usually not routed anywhere.
>> It just sits on the top of the loop.
>>
>> It?s different from the tank vent.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List Transducer Placement Cored Hulls

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I mounted mine just forward of the keel. It was solid glass
.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:12 AM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the
> centerline. It is solid glass there as the core does not extend to the
> centerline. The overlaps of layers of cloth provide the required thickness.
> I would assume the other models are built in a similar manner. Our CHIRP
> sonar/depth sounder works great there.
>
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C 41   WeGo
>
> On Mon, May 20, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+
>>   (Frederick G Street)
>>2. Re:  Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades (Matthew L. Wolford)
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Frederick G Street 
>> To: David via CnC-List 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 07:15:57 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+
>> Bruce — if you’re going to have two depth transducers running at the same
>> time, you’d better check to make sure they’re running on different
>> frequencies; otherwise, you’re going to experience some strange results…
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On May 18, 2019, at 6:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at
>> West Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the
>> bottom, act as a fish finder, etc.On most boats, the transducer can
>> be mounted in the bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  
>> We,
>> however, have a cored hull.
>>
>> If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer,
>> but I'd like the added functionality.
>>
>> Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not
>> cored and it might work?
>>
>> Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> To: 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 08:39:06 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
>> Brian:
>>
>> I replaced the lens on my front hatch and my windows on a 1978 34.
>> The
>> hatch was Atkins and Hoyle.  The parts are really expensive so do what
>> you
>> can to use the existing hatch frame and its parts.  For this job, I
>> ordered
>> a piece of plexi of the same thickness, had it cut to size, then took it
>> to
>> a local shop that replaces auto windows.  I told them to use the same
>> sealant they use for cars.  They did a fine job -- no leaks.  I also
>> replaced the gasket material, which you should be able to find on-line.
>> My
>> windows were the old style C oval windows, which I replaced with Lewmar
>> opening ports.  Great upgrade.  I think 1979 was the year C started
>> using
>> "go fast" windows, so you'll want to use the procedure described numerous
>> times on this list.  I used this procedure last year on my 42, and the
>> windows look brand new with no leaks.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 12:40 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brian Morrison
>> Subject: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
>>
>> Hello,
>> I have a 1979 C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch,
>> companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and
>> have
>> crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Brian
>> S/V Rekofa
>> 1979 C
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 

Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Sailrite has a "How To" video for window curtains at:
https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Make-Boat-Interior-Curtains-Video.

I replaced my accordion shades, and it was a big improvement. While you're
at it, look at all the other videos on the Sailrite site.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, May 18, 2019 at 9:41 PM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
> I have a 1979 C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch,
> companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and have
> crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
> S/V Rekofa
> 1979 C
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List question

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Make sure the cables are aligned so that they aren't rubbing on the
quadrant. Then lube the cable, chain and turning blocks with motor oil.
There should also be a delrin washer around the rudder post, under the
collar that keeps the rudder from falling down. You said you don't have a
grease cup, but try looking again. It looks like a small tuna fish can,
mounted on the forward side of the fiberglass surrounding the rudder post.
It should be filled with grease, and when you turn the cap, it forces the
grease around the rudder post.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 8:49 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I can speak from experience on my LF38.  Your problem is most likely a
> misalignment in the upper rudder bearing--the one mounted right below the
> helm mounted with 4 bolts.  The correction is probably best performed out
> of the water.  Simply loosen the four bolts & move the bearing until the
> steering frees up then tighten the mounting bolts.
>
> If this is not the problem I would add grease to the grease cup on the
> rudder shaft.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
>
> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:10 AM, Camille Cloutier via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> We just signed in the CnC-List mailing list and we would have a question
> concerning our C boat Landfall 38. We live in Québec and we are french
> speaking so I'll try to express myself as good as I can :)
>
> We find that the streering wheel is harder to turn then other C we have
> tried. We have replace all the wires so we are sure that the problem
> doesn't come from the pedestal. In the instruction manual, they talk about a
> grease cup which we don't have. We don't have teflon washer around the
> rudder shaft in the water either.
>
> Does anyone have informations about how the whole rudder system is put
> together so we can recondition it to have a smooth and easy steering wheel
> ?
>
> Thank you very much
>
> Camille
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I've sailed my boat along the coast of Washington, no more than fifteen
miles offshore. In my more than fifty years of sailing, the waters along
the Washington coast are the worst in which I've ever sailed. Strongest
winds I've ever encountered were forty-two knots true, sailing DDW in the
Straits of Juan de Fuca. (Blew out a spinnaker.) It was scary, but a
hell-of-a-ride, and I had faith in the boat. I sailed my previous boat, and
Ericson 2-30 offshore as well, and a friend of mine single-handed a Flicka
(20'; 24' if you count the bowsprit) from Hawaii to Tahiti to Hawaii to
Port Townsend, WA. That just confirms the expression "Size doesn't matter."

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 8:51 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> I'm still lurking here.  My 35-3, a 37, Impromptu, and Rick's LF 38 have
> all been to Bermuda.  Personally, I consider 35 the minimum for offshore,
> but obviously, others have different standards.
>
> Never saw winds over 30 (on the return) and never felt unsafe.
>
> Joel
> Formerly The Office
>
> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 11:21 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current
>> boat purchase: how many of you have taken your C offshore, and if so,
>> which boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not
>> gone offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C,
>> and how would the performance of the boat in these conditions make you feel
>> about taking it offshore?
>>
>> One of the very first boats we looked at was a Westsail 32 (don't laugh),
>> partly because they are proven world cruisers, and the boat has been from
>> BC to NZ and back. But with our fickle air in the summer here, a good light
>> air boat seems like a better choice, but I also want something that can
>> take a beating without worrying about our safety.
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> ___
>>
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>> 
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement on 35-2

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Take the through hulls apart, and clean them up. I just did that with one
of mine. Some people use a lubricant on them - mineral oil, teflon
lubricant, but I don't.

On my boat, I'd be more confident using the original rigging, than making
new rigging myself. Since it's easy enough for you to take the mast down,
why not have a rigger inspect the rigging, and he can advise you whether to
replace the rigging or not.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 8:00 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> The 35-2 we are about to purchase has standing rigging of unknown age,
> although it appears to be solid. There is a fellow at the club where the
> boat is currently located who does rigging, and is going to give me a
> quote. As the boat is already being hauled and put on the hard for 2 weeks,
> and the club has a mast crane, it seems like a good opportunity to get it
> done, and also any work on the mast, check the keel bolt under the mast,
> etc. The boat has dual forestays with furlers, single backstay with
> hydraulic tensioner, and standard upper, fore & aft lower shrouds. Just
> interested in what a ballpark cost should be, and how this would compare to
> me ordering the wire are terminals and doing it myself.
>
> Also, the boat has 7 through hulls, all marelon which appear to be in
> good condition, but some are a bit stiff. I'm assuming this is due to
> growth inside and lack of exercise (current owner leaves them open it
> seems). What is the recommended maintenance for these during a haulout?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Leaks and ceiling panels

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my panels with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) from Home
Depot. Easy to cut with a saber saw using blades with fine teeth. I used 1"
Velcro to hold the panels in place. Liquid Nails adhesive works well, even
over adhesive, from the old Velcro, that I couldn't get off.

The water intrusion might be from hardware mounted on the cabin top. Try
rebedding all the hardware

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Apr 20, 2019 at 3:26 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Listers
>
> We have pretty major water intrusion coming in on the port side by the
> bulkhead in the salon of our C 36. The water is gathering on the edge of
> the fibreglass headliner and running into the storage cupboards.  I have
> rebedded the chain plates and handrails.  The stanchions are too far
> outboard.  Any suggestions?
>
> Also this has been discussed before.  Has anyone replaced ceiling panels
> and used velcro to hold them in?  What was the best material? I have
> thought of those fibreglass panels found at home depot but seems pretty
> messy to cut.
>
> Adam
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
>
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Re: Stus-List The bulge is back in town

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I recommend you have a surveyor look at that. The crack tells me you have a
bigger problem than you might think. The small cost will at least give you
peace of mind if it's nothing for you to worry about.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 8:07 AM Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So my bilateral keelbolt bulge is back from water intrusion down the keel
> bolt on my 29-2. Two years ago I drilled (hoping to release said water, but
> found nothing), hammered, epoxied and painted it flat again. Planning to do
> the same thing again. My guess is that the trapped water simply freezes and
> expands recreating the bulge and I will have to do this as long as I own
> the boat unless I make some major holes/repair. The former seems like an
> easier plan. I have slight concern about the bolt eventually getting loose,
> but it seems like that might take a while.
>
> Pictures of the bulge at the link below. It is somewhat subtle in the
> pictures, but the cracking is the telltale.
>
> Any other thoughts on mitigation? Has anyone made a major repair for this
> issue?
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/hWprkdNXtb8eMo2F8
> 
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene Fodor
> Hawk
> C 29-2
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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My boat has inspection panels, about 6" square that gives me access to the
through bolt chain plate nuts. Not sure if you could do something similar
with your boat.

Regarding the headliner, I replaced the thin plywood panels, that got
weathered by leaks, with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic), held in place
with Velcro. FRP is available at Home Depot. Another solution is using
cloth material. Sailrite has a "How To" video about using carpet style
material for a headliner.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Install-Carpet-Style-Headliner-Video

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:23 PM james via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> My boat came with vinyl covered plywood panels that are held in place by
> velcro. They had become pretty ragged and warped so I replaced them with
> "foamed PVC" sheet. They look very nice. I can't find any pics of them but
> I'll email you a before pic. I'm not sure that would work on your boat, but
> it's an idea
>
> James Taylor
>
> Delaney, 1976 C 38
>
> Oriental, NC
> On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
> We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes
> drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of through-bolting
> (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
> hardware, including replacement stainless grab rails. In some areas, 4-8"
> circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels similar to the factory
> panels were added, which look ok. For the grab rails, there is just a
> series of 1" holes. There are also a few places where access was cut for
> wiring. As a result, the headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss
> cheese look.
>
> What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a headliner
> cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've seen done on
> other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves in the cabin top
> would make this very difficult to do well. I have seen one example where
> the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an option?) but I
> think that might just make them stand out more.
>
> Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for when
> inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this boat, I
> will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the sliding
> storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
>
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Enjoy the wedding. I'll be in the San Juan Islands in early July. Perhaps
we can meet up then.

Alan

On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 12:45 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not this year, unfortunately. We will be on our way to Saskatchewan for a
> wedding. We'll hope for the rendezvous.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 07:51, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jim:
>>
>> I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll
>> get together at the rendezvous.
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> ___
>>>
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>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
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Re: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For those of you who need line, today is West Marine's last day of sale -
40% off on selected line.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 4:49 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Many thanks to all for their input.  Wound up getting 7/16 New England Sta
> Set – 7000 lb breaking – eye splice both ends 2 soft shackles.  By all
> accounts should help a lot to prevent hanging up on the baby stay when
> tacking.  Purchased from Defender who is next town over from me
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John
> and Maryann Read via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, April 05, 2019 7:16 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* John and Maryann Read
> *Subject:* Stus-List 34 genoa sheets
>
>
>
> Am replacing genoa sheets but uncertain of correct size.   Currently use ½
> inch but seem a bit oversize.  Plan to get Sta set or similar with soft
> shackle.  What size do other 34 / 33 owners use?
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Jim:

I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll get
together at the rendezvous.

Alan

On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Lee:

I'll be cruising, after the race, till mid August. Hope to see you at the
rendezvous.

Alan

On Sat, Apr 6, 2019 at 9:23 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Go Alan and Thirsty - What fun!
>
>
> On Apr 6, 2019, at 8:30 18AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The 193 mile Oregon Offshore race will begin on Thursday, May 9. The race
> starts in Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia river, and ends in
> Victoria, BC. Two C's are entered: Thirsty, a C 35 Mk III, and Defiant,
> a C 110. You can watch our progress at www.oregonoffshore.org
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.oregonoffshore.org_=DwMFAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=w2jse_6Llcocp160hNA97uewY6_ZFzAWnVqleaQPJyI=Dm5-8X6AvCXqpxNtK3Lp4uSE1K5_mBYcJYkg04lZpp0=>,
> and click on* race tracker.*
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland,OR
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The 193 mile Oregon Offshore race will begin on Thursday, May 9. The race
starts in Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia river, and ends in
Victoria, BC. Two C's are entered: Thirsty, a C 35 Mk III, and Defiant,
a C 110. You can watch our progress at www.oregonoffshore.org, and click
on* race tracker.*
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland,OR
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: 1974 36 mk2 questions

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When the smile first appeared on my boat, the keel bolts were so loose that
I could move the keel from side to side. In order to drop the keel, we had
to remove the mast (The forward keel bolt is under the mast). Once we
dropped the keel, we hosed out the bolt holes. There was a terrible smell
coming from the forward hole. There was a void there that had to be filled.
The yard ground the stub and the top of the keel, and epoxied the two of
them together. It took about a gallon of epoxy to fill the void. Then a
couple of layers of fiberglass were glassed over the smile, and it has
never appeared again. Also, I haven't had to re-tighten the keel bolts.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 1:47 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The C smile is usually a non-issue.  It is nearly always resolved by
> torquing the keel bolts and cosmetically repairing the hull/keel crack.
> See:
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm
> 
>
> That's a typical C smile.  It was fixed by torquing the bolts, digging
> out some crumbly stuff at the crack and epoxying a couple overlapping
> layers of glass over the crack.  The repair shown was done in 1999.  It has
> not reappeared.  Here's the same boat in 2018.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UzpgYV6IlfmY6YeK2k3-pcE0ZACotjpJ
> 
>
> Torquing the bolts is much easier than finding the tools to do it.  Most
> use a torque multiplier.  You may be able to rent what you need.
>
> The bolts must be individually backed off and then torqued.  Doesn't much
> matter if the boat is in or out of the water.
>
> The biggest issue with older C's is if the washers/plates under the keel
> bolts have not been replaced with stainless plates.  If they are plain
> steel, they should be replaced with stainless.
>
> For most older C's the smile is a greatly overblown issue.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 3:05 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok, so perhaps a better question to ask - what is the recommended
>> maintenance (annual re-torque? I see a torque spec listed on the
>> CNCphotoalbum page but no other details), and if the C smile is found,
>> does the keel need to be dropped to fix it? This boat will be pushing our
>> budget a bit, so I want to ensure we're not going to incur a bunch of costs
>> right away.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:59 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is a way to add keel bolts with the keel in place, but C are
>>> not known for losing keels in the first place!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> After another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again considering
>>> the 35-2 "Callisto" which began this old thread from January. I have been
>>> thinking about it, and when I saw it at the dock while looking at another
>>> boat (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had forgotten
>>> how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for sale sign, and I am
>>> waiting to hear back from the owner. I think at 34K he was asking far too
>>> much, but at 20K I could overlook some of the not quite up to my standards
>>> work done on it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me, and we
>>> can agree on a price.
>>>
>>> Since looking at this boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons,
>>> and really liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s models. We
>>> almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my fear of keel bolts is
>>> probably unwarranted, and even Ericson went with bolt on keels by the 80s,
>>> and none of them fell off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts,
>>> but I assume they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to make a lot of
>>> sense, since the crevice corrosion is likely to a problem with the
>>> bolt/stud. Are the bolts J bolts like concrete anchors, or just threaded
>>> rod set into lead? I imagine replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is
>>> replacing them ever actually done? Could you just drill, tap, and thread in
>>> new stainless rod in between the original bolts for extra safety? Or am I
>>> worrying too much about a mostly non-issue? It's just that most bolt 

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Is there anything special about the cap, or can I just get one from an auto
parts store?

Alan Bergen

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 1:38 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I second Charlie’s message.  My overflow tank developed a crack and it
> took me a while to find the slow leak.  Fixed it with a plastic
> glue/sealant and it has been fine since.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Also be sure your overflow tank/fittings and the ‘radiator’ cap are both
> working and have good seals.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
> 
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The cp is old. I'll replace that first. Thanks for mentioning that.

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 9:19 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> How old is the cap on the coolant system?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 10:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't
>> seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the
>> engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in
>> the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult
>> is it to replace/repair the heat exchanger core?
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I already ruled that out.

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 8:50 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can't rule out a head gasket, either.  Look for a milky substance in
> the engine oil.
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't
>> seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the
>> engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in
>> the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult
>> is it to replace/repair the heat exchanger core?
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Shawn:

I purchased, new, a 1979 Ericson 2-30, and sailed and raced her for
twenty-five years. I never had a problem with the keel, and the bilge was
bone dry. I seem to recall that the keel bolts were J bolts. I have never
heard of an Ericson keel falling off. The only problem I had with the boat
was the way the shrouds were bonded to the hull. The tabs on the chain
plates were too small, causing the hull to "oil can" (dimples in the hull
around the chain plates). Whoever bonded the chain plates to the hull,
didn't use enough resin. (Some of the glass mat was not saturated with
resin.) Ericson sent me a retrofit kit which extended the chain plates and
the extensions had longer tabs. I did the work myself, and I didn't have
any further problems. The last I heard, the boat is still sailing in the
Portland area. As an aside, there's an Ericson 30+ listed for sale on
Yachtworld.com for $16,500.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 8:43 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> After another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again considering the
> 35-2 "Callisto" which began this old thread from January. I have been
> thinking about it, and when I saw it at the dock while looking at another
> boat (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had forgotten
> how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for sale sign, and I am
> waiting to hear back from the owner. I think at 34K he was asking far too
> much, but at 20K I could overlook some of the not quite up to my standards
> work done on it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me, and we
> can agree on a price.
> Since looking at this boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons, and
> really liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s models. We
> almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my fear of keel bolts is
> probably unwarranted, and even Ericson went with bolt on keels by the 80s,
> and none of them fell off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts,
> but I assume they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to make a lot of
> sense, since the crevice corrosion is likely to a problem with the
> bolt/stud. Are the bolts J bolts like concrete anchors, or just threaded
> rod set into lead? I imagine replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is
> replacing them ever actually done? Could you just drill, tap, and thread in
> new stainless rod in between the original bolts for extra safety? Or am I
> worrying too much about a mostly non-issue? It's just that most bolt on
> keel boats I've looked at have water in the bilge meaning the bolts/nuts
> will stay wet most of the time (probably mainly rainwater/condensation I
> guess), so it seems like I should be concerned.
>
> It's interesting also that after a lot of discussion with the Ericson guys
> (also a great group of owners, like this group), one of the features of the
> newer Ericson designs which improves comfort is the flared bow (the 80s
> models), something which the C 35-2 also has. Walking up to this 35-2 a
> few days ago just reminded me why I was so attracted to it originally. Yes,
> there are a few things I would do differently, but it's basically ready to
> sail, as is.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't
seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the
engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in
the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult
is it to replace/repair the heat exchanger core?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If your insurance policy hull coverage says"agreed value", that's what the
insurance company should pay you, not what other boats sell for, even if
they sell for less than the agreed value. If your insurance policy hull
coverage says "replacement cost", then they'll use whatever an identical
boat would sell for.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 1:41 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Perhaps there is no insurance...
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 1, 2019 4:17:22 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe; 'Bruce Roland'
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]
>
>
> I am more than a little confused here. Who is your insurance carrier? Why
> would they take some random internet person’s word for a boat’s value over
> an accredited marine surveyor? It is a bit odd this is even a question, I
> know what my hull value is already on my policy, it is plainly stated.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bruce Roland [mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 01, 2019 2:16 PM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Re: [EXTERNAL]
>
>
>
> They will not accept anything from a surveyor so yes it would help.
>
> Bruce Roland
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 1, 2019, 1:07 PM Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
>
> That looks like a 30, not a 36.
>
> I am not a marine surveyor, so I am not sure why your insurance would
> believe my valuation more than anyone else’s. Just give them a list of
> similar (not wrecked) boats for sale. No insurance company will pay more to
> fix the boat than what you would pay to get another one.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bruce Roland [mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, April 01, 2019 1:50 PM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL]
>
>
>
> The boat has been destroyed, I'm wanting in writing saying to rebuild what
> cost could vs replacement.
>
> Please
>
> Bruce Roland
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List C 36-1 stuffing box

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I think I use 1/4" packing (1" shaft). To be safe, why not buy a few
different sizes, and return the ones that are the wrong size.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 4:33 PM Rod Fisk via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My 1981 C 36-1 needs new packing in the prop shaft stuffing box. Access
> is pretty poor, does anyone know the brand C was using at that time? I
> know the prop shaft is 1" but I can't tell what the ID of the packing gland
> is. The boat manual has only very general information. Does anyone have any
> idea what size packing it requires?
>
> Rod Fisk
> 1981 C 36 "Corsair"
> Sherwood, WI
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Avon and engine...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Your 4 cycle eight is a lot heavier than your 2 cycle four. Might make the
boat out of balance.

On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 10:48 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a 9' high pressure floor Avon that is in good shap.  My 4hp 2cycle
> died.  I have a barely used 4 cycle mercury 8hp that I would like to throw
> on it to save buying a new boat or motor.  Avon spec plate says max HP is 6
> hp.   I am thinking that as long as I dont hot-rod  the dink I should be
> able to get away with it?
>
> Or am I missing something...
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I did one handrail with epoxy first and then several coats of Cabot Spar
Varnish. I did the other handrail with just the Spar Varnish. The finish on
the epoxied one is more durable. Whatever varnish you use, get one that has
UV inhibitors.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Teak interior steps

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use oil, and I applied Treadmaster to the steps.

Alan Bergen
>
35 Mk III Thirsty
>
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced an Autohelm depth sounder display with one I purchased from
someone on the list. the transducer was ok. You can also check out the
Raymarine refurbished instruments.
http://www.raymarine.com/store/refurbished/. You might find something you
want there.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 1:11 PM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I'd appreciate some advice regarding a non-functioning depth sounder.
>
> Near the end of the season my depth sounder started reading 0 no matter
> the condition.  I couldn't find any obvious explanation for the problem -
> but I'm thinking that the Autohelm depth and speedo are original to the
> 1986 boat - so likely better to suck it up and replace than to jury rig a
> repair or sink money into a new transducer.
>
> Should I just replace the broken depth and worry about the speedo at at
> another time?  Anyone think it's better to do a whole package?
>
> I have a Raymarine wheel pilot (waiting for me to install) - so I assume
> the smart move would be to stick with the same product line. Such as -
> Raymarine i40 Depth System with Thru-Hull Transducer E70142.  With the
> Binnacle a new depth sounder $340, and a new speedo ($350) combined for
> almost $700 - would I be better to add a whole package with wind
> instruments?
>
> Raymarine i70s Instrument Value Pack Speed Depth Wind T70226 -  
> *https://tinyurl.com/y9zumft6
> 
> *- $1600 cdn at Binnacle (I wouldn't mind if I could get water temp as
> well but don't know if that's an option with Raymarine).
>
> Another option - someone on this list suggested SailTimer as a better
> option for wind instruments.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> ___
>
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>
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Stus-List Spinnaker Running Rigging

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My arrangement is similar to yours, Don. The spinnaker guy has a shackle
with a large bale The sheet is attached to the guy and the guy is attached
to the spinnaker clew. I have a two or three inch diameter disk on the guy
just aft of the shackle which prevents the shackle from getting caught in
the jaws of the pole. My guy goes to a pad-eye just aft of the shrouds, and
the sheet to a block on the rail all the way aft. When dropping the chute,
we drop it under the jib, and down the forward hatch. That keeps the
companionway clear, and the spinnaker doesn't tangle with the cockpit crew.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Don Kern via CnC-List 
1:08 PM (2 hours ago)
Reply
to cnc-list, Don

I race quite a bit (more than I cruise) and I have not used the reaching
strut in years, though it carried below on the shelf above the v-berth.  We
use both a sheet and a guy attached to each clue.  The sheet is lead to a
turning blocks at the aft most opening on the toe rail, the guy is lead to
a snatch block on the toe rail about a foot aft of the lower-aft shroud,
then inboard aft to the cockpit.  In light air we will drop the guy and
just go with the sheet.  The shackle of the guy is normally hooked into the
ring of the sheet's shackle. For spinnaker take downs we grab the lazy guy,
easy since there is no tension on it, lead it over the life line down the
companionway into cabin. Then let the pole go forward and blow the sheet's
shackle (guy is hooked into the sheet) and haul the chute down behind the
main. Two other advantages with this arrangement is that with the guy led
into the toe rail amidships it also acts as a pole downhaul and when
running dead before the wind, in very heavy blow we choke the spinnaker
with the lazy guy to inhibit death roles.
Don Kern
Fireball C MK2
Bristol, RI
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Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement - death roll

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

In addition to what Don said, using the lazy guy instead of the sheet,
pulls the clew down, and then you can even the clews by moving the pole
down at the mast,  easing the topping lift and tightening the foreguy. All
of these adjustments move the center of effort down, further lessening the
oscillations.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 1:33 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Our rule to minimize the possibility of a death roll is to NEVER, EVER let
> the center seam of the chute be to windward of the forestay in heavy
> breeze.  That's on the guy trimmer.  It's one of the few things one can do
> on Touche' where you get yelled at by me.
>
> Ease the pole forward so the center seam is 1-2 feet to leeward of the
> forestay.  If the boat starts to heel to windward, ease the pole more and
> trim the chute IN, not out.  Pulling the chute behind the main will lessen
> the chance of a death roll.  Unfortunately, the natural tendency of most
> trimmers is to ease or release a sail in such a situation.  If the chute is
> eased, it will swing further to windward and drag the boat down into a
> death roll.  Bad, bad scene.
>
> For non-racers, death rolls are scary bad.  They can occur when sailing
> dead downwind with the chute poled out.  The boat can become unstable and
> start into a "windshield wiper" oscillation.  If extreme, the boat heels
> well to windward and the pole enters the water.  The speed of the boat can
> snap the pole's bridle or downhaul and the pole will pivot into the
> shrouds.  It can bring the rig down.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 3:08 PM Don Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Two other advantages with this arrangement is that with the guy led into
>> the toe rail amidships it also acts as a pole downhaul and when running
>> dead before the wind, in very heavy blow we choke the spinnaker with the
>> lazy guy to inhibit death roles.
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball C MK2
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List Galley Sink

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Ron -
Where did you find a single bowl sink that's about the same size as the
double sink that came with many of the C's?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 6:52 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Adamdo not listen to those C'rs who say that the dark cave is a
> good place to bethe dark ages are over
> ...
> I redid the countertops on my 38MKII '77 vintage a year ago...
>
> What a differencethe whole interior feels much bigger than before
> We used simple laminate in white and it is amazing...
> Used the savings from the counter top to replace the sink with a new
> single bowlanother great decision.
>
> Definitely go for itremembera happy Admiral is a happy life.
> Ron C.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I saw a boat at a rendezvous a few years ago, which had galley and head
counters made of Corian. Looked great. I plan on doing the same thing when
I have some extra money. I'll send some pictures.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Nov 30, 2018 at 3:04 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops for more
> modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am not so much
> concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.
> We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even
> question the need for the fiddles.
>
> I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral.
>
> Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated.
>
> Adam Hayden
> C 36
> state of bliss.
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Most important, do not use an automotive charger; use a marine charger. The
charger depends on the type of batteries you have - led acid, gel or AGM.
Some chargers will charge all three depending on the switch setting. I have
a charger mounted on my boat, and I keep it on whenever I'm in my slip, all
year long. If you don't have access to electricity, remove the batteries
from your boat, and store them in your heated garage till you're ready to
launch in the spring.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Fri, Nov 30, 2018 at 7:16 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have two batteries that I am looking for information on how to Maintain
> my batteries over the winter.  What charger to purchase and process to
> follow. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee, WI
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use Delo 15-40.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 12:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

In Oregon there are places that recycle all kinds of "stuff" - batteries,
paint, oil, antifreeze, compact florescent bulbs. You get the picture. Try
Googling Milwaukee hazardous waste recycling.There are several places that
will probably take the antifreeze.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 4:20 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is a tangent off the original question, but does anyone know what to
> do with the old antifreeze?  My city will take motor oil but not
> antifreeze.   It’s been holding me back from changing it out lately, but I
> really need to do in the spring.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> 
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 9:16 AM -0600, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Robert,
>>
>> Below is a post I put on the board about a month ago, which speaks to the
>> issue of the coolant itself.  Your boat may be sufficiently old that all
>> its ever had is the standard green antifreeze, but nonetheless, you will
>> probably find this interesting.  In the end, rather than having the concern
>> about Dextron antifreeze causing head gasket leaks hang over my head, I am
>> going to go with the newer "universal" long-life coolant, which I believe
>> is yellow (though the color means nothing anymore).  As for the frequency
>> of coolant changes, Yanmar now recommends changing it EVERY YEAR even if it
>> is long-life coolant.  The primary job of coolant (other than keeping it
>> from freezing) is stopping corrosion in the engine, and coolant breaks down
>> over time (especially the old style green coolant).  This is why they
>> developed "long life" coolant which is supposedly good for 5 years.
>>
>> So, I'll probably plan on replacing the coolant every 2 years at the same
>> time I replace my impeller.
>>
>> Hope you find the reading below helpful.
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> As a result of a concern about tracking down a potential antifreeze leak
>> (which I haven't done yet), I wanted to confirm the coolant type.  There is
>> no mention as to specific types either in my 3JH2E operating or service
>> manuals.  Yes, I could go (way) out of my way to get Yanmar branded
>> coolant, but let's face it - it is not only way more expensive, its
>> available almost exclusively at Yanmar dealers, and the nearest one to me
>> is 15 miles away and isn't open on Saturdays or Sundays.  And of course,
>> what happens if you need more when you're out cruising?
>>
>> In doing research, I found the following bulletin, published by Mack
>> Boring:
>> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=4=2ahUKEwizh_zu8Y3eAhWOy1MKHSFlD3cQFjADegQIBxAC=http%3A%2F%2Fldmarineservice.com%2Ffiles%2Fyanmar_bulletins.pdf=AOvVaw3WK3R6vfJyTHOt5yGzFMDZ
>> 
>>
>> In the section about coolants, it recommends:
>>
>> Texaco Long Life Coolant, numbers 7991 and 7998.  Unfortunately, one
>> really can't find either product on the web, so I can't seem to find if it
>> was orange (DEXCOOL) or red for diesels, or for that matter if it was
>> ethylene glycol or propylene glycol based.
>>
>> Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant, number 7994.  Per this link,
>> 7994 is DEX-COOL, but is ethylene glycol based.
>> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwij_o2I843eAhWK0FMKHXc5AfMQFjAAegQICxAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rialtainfo.com%2Fvw%2Fvw_images%2Fradiator_%26_coolant.pdf=AOvVaw3ZxHApMqFHHgB-qcUwOYWa
>> 
>>
>> Dex-Cool Long Life Coolant, which at least at the time of introduction
>> was propylene glycol based and is Organic Acid Technology (OAT) thus
>> meaning less toxic.  Funny thing is, Dex-Cool was not even introduced until
>> a 

Re: Stus-List Baby stay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My boat came with a baby stay on a Schaeffer track. I replaced the track
with a Harken high profile track and a Harken traveler car. I can snug it
by hand, but I can also lead it to a spinnaker halyard winch through a
Lewmar clutch. In light air, I release the clutch, and push the BS back to
the mast. when racing in heavy air, and on the ocean, I tension the BS. It
prevents mast pumping, and it helps to flatten the main in heavy iar.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 6:47 PM, schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

> John,
>
> I agree.  I sited up the mast on Glenn Gambel's C 36 during the Queens
> cup race and notice how much the mast was pumping.  I tightened the baby
> stay as much as I could without using a winch and it quieted down
> significantly.
>
> I was not very familiar with a baby stay with our Redwing 35.  It had dual
> lowers and a tree trunk mast.
>
> Our C 35-3 has a baby stay without a track and car.  It is one of the
> things that I have contemplated adding.  I have never felt that the mast
> was pumping an it.  Having been dis-masted, some of the people that I
> talked with during repair discussion said that they have dealt with mast
> pumping failures (not on C's).
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Good advice, Chuck. I was going by what was told to me. I never bothered to
check the manual for the correct lubricant.

Alan


On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 9:32 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on
> the chain and cables.  Chain lube is designed as lubricant for chains
> travelling at high speed on a motorcycle or bicycle and are specially
> designed to stick to the chain and not get flung off when moving quickly.
> The chain and cable on your boat moves very slowly.  Chain lube  is sticky
> messy stuff and spraying inside your pedestal will get lube all over
> everything including the brake shoes.  So once the brake shoes are
> contaminated with lubricant, you can forget about the brake holding the
> wheel in place.  Also dirt and other contamination will stick to chain lube
> with amazing tenacity.
>
> So, the proper method of lubricating the chain is to put some 30 weight
> oil on a rag and lightly apply the rag to the chain as you move the wheel
> back and forth.  Do the same on the cables, only this time, apply the oil
> to some tissue (Kleenex or similar) and run the tissue down the length of
> the cable.  If pieces of tissue remain on the cable, it is a good place to
> look for breaks in the cable strands that are the start of the dreaded
> cable meathooks (ie friction induced wear).  Replace the cables if any
> meat hooks are detected.
>
> I’m suggesting these methods because I worked on the customer service
> phone lines at Edson for about 10 years and those are the manufacturer’s
> recommended methods of lubing the chain and cable.  A much more likely
> candidate for the pedestal “squeak” are the sheaves that sit at the base of
> the pedestal.  If there are bronze axles on the sheaves, it is time to
> replace those with stainless sheave pins as they’re probably worn if they
> don’t receive periodic lubrication (again, 30 weight motor oil).  Even if
> there are stainless axles, it’s a good idea to check for cable orientation
> between the sheaves and the radial wheel.  Look for sharp edges on the
> grooves of the sheaves which indicate wear and friction due to
> misalignment.  Finally, check the idler plate itself for excessive
> corrosion.  If heavily rusted, that plate can actually flex and cause the
> sheaves to move back and forth under load.
>
> If this needs validation, check a publication called the Planning
> Installation and Maintenance Guide found on Edson Marine’s website.
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf
> 
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Use chain lubricant on the chain and on the cables. It comes in a spray can.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
> squeaking I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The
> rudder feels tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is
> lubrication needed somewhere?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Bailey White
> 1979 C 36
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
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> bapfUT7pNIkd3hEBfYdwaOLNVxO3lp1QSZxgr_AS_rw=ojH_fuDC0Gm-
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rejected messages

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject
line?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you use someone to hoist you up the mast, tie the halyard to you or to
your climbing gear, rather than using the shackle that's on the halyard.
Don't let anyone stand under you while you're going up or while you're at
the top, just in case you drop something. A friend of  mine ;loaned me his
half inch drill, and a bit that fit in the winch. It didn't take me long to
hoist one of my crew to the top of the mast, electrically.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Two or three climbing ascenders, climbing harness.
>
>
>
> If you have someone to help you (belay), two is enough. If you try doing
> it solo you need the third.
>
>
>
> Make sure that your halyards are in good shape. This step is CRITICAL.
>
>
>
> Climb on one halyard; preferably, tied very tight to the bottom of the
> mast. Pre-stretch it as much as you can (winch). Have the helper belay you
> (keep the line almost tight) on another halyard. If you do it solo, use the
> 3rd ascender to secure you to the second halyard.
>
>
>
> Take a few loops of some good webbing or even some line with you. You want
> to be able to secure yourself to the top of the mast. Also, you can use a
> loop to make “stirrups” for your feet, for when you work at the top.
>
>
>
> I would not recommend doing it alone.
>
>
>
> Never use a single or unknown line to climb the mast!!!
>
>
>
> Btw. The weight limitation is only for you (not the mast). If you can do
> it, the mast would take it.
>
>
>
> Make sure that you have ALL tools you might need up there.
>
>
>
> Take a length of cord (30’) to use to get you any tool you forgot or
> dropped.
>
>
>
> Make sure that you don't drop anything (short cords attached to each tool)
>
>
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail
> 
> for Windows 10
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Sidney King
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 4, 2018 12:27:28 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Sidney King
> *Subject:* Stus-List Climbing the mast
>
> Hello
>
> I would like to add a antenna at the top of the mast for a marina radio.
>
> Looking for advice on how to accomplish this.
>
> I have a 1980 c 24ft sailboat.
>
> Is there a weight limit to climb the mast?
>
> What kind climbing gear to use?
>
> Thank you
>
> ___
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> 
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use the Lewmar grease. Use it sparingly. I do all winches (ten) on my
boat every year, and a tube of Lewmar grease lasts me for years.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 6:45 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m performing maintenance on my Barient 18 winches and was wondering if
> there was a preferred machine oil and grease? The Lewmar grease seems
> expensive and I’d have to order it.
>
> Chris
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
> 
>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Sizing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The  prop diameter should be as large as possible while still clearing the
hull by a couple of inches. When you run the engine at full throttle, you
should be able to reach rated rpm. If the engine runs more than 5% over
rated rpm, the pitch is too low. If the engine cannot reach rated rpm, the
pitch is too high.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 7:04 AM, David Morris via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I determined at haulout this weekend our newly-acquired 1975 C 30 MKI,
> Atomic 4, direct drive is equipped with a Gori two-blade folding prop,
> measuring approx. 11.5”. I have neither the experience or expertise to know
> if this is a great prop for the boat, a lousy one, or, more likely,
> somewhere in between. After a major tune-up on the engine, we seemed to be
> able to run at around 6.2 knots in relatively calm water. Any advice,
> suggestions, observations anyone would care to offer on prop selection
> would be much appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_-8873611121891266791_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 actual draft.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It's rated at 6' 5" or 6.42'

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Oct 28, 2018 at 2:23 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m taking my boat to be hauled out tomorrow, the marina I’m headed to is
> pretty shallow. I’ve never actually measured for myself, does anyone know
> what the actual draft of a 1987 35-3 is? I know it’s over 6 ft, but I don’t
> know how much. Thanks in advance.
>
> Brien Sadler
> S/V TAZ
> ‘87 C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing for C 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can buy several sizes, and return the ones that you don't use.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 8:07 AM, Dennis Shaw Account via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am replacing the cutless bearing on our 1981 C 34 next week and need
> to pre-order the cutless bearing as we are only hauled out for a day.   It
> is a 1 inch shaft – does anyone know what the outside diameter of the
> bearing is as they come in different OD’s.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Dennis
>
> Andante
>
> C 34
>
> Victoria BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Two things you can try:

First, get a bigger funnel.

Second, instead of having the spout of the can facing away from you, turn
the can around, and have the spout facing toward you. when the spout is
facing away from you, fuel will start to flow as soon as you tilt the can.
When the spout is facing away from you, you can tilt the can quite a ways
before the fuel starts to flow, and it will flow more slowly.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 7:16 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually
> do by pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry
> can.  I have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full
> 5 gal container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the
> transom and into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device
> that works or come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

With both taps turned off, if the pump pressure switch doesn't see back
pressure, it will run until it sees pressure, and the pump turns off. When
the cold water is turned on, the pump pressure switch sees no back
pressure, and pumps the cold water. When the cold water tap is closed, the
pressure switch sees back pressure and turns the pump off. When the hot
water tap is turned on, there is still some back pressure (coming from the
hot water tank), so the pump doesn't turn on immediately. After the hot
water runs for a while, there is no back pressure, and the pump turns on.
This is normal operation. If the pump is straining before it shuts off,
it's because pressure is building up in the hot water tank.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Oct 23, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No accumulator tank, the T/P valve is the only thing I changed, no other
> lines disconnected.
> Thanks for all the thoughts, I'll try bleeding off the T/P valve and see
> if it helps.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C newport 41 1977 fore deck hatches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My previous boat was an Ericson 2-30. It had wooden framed hatches that I
replaced with aluminum framed hatches from Bomar. The deck on the Ericson
was raised, so the mounting surface of the wooden framed hatches wasn't
curved. On your boat you would have to mount the Bomar or Harken hatches on
the wooden frames, or build up the curved surface of the deck so that the
aluminum framed hatches would sit flush.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sat, Oct 13, 2018 at 11:12 AM, Mark A Watson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ladies and gentlemen
>
> We acquired  Trinity (C newport 41 mk1 c from 1977) a little over a year
> ago and love her.
>
>
> Question has anybody have experience replacing the original wood framed
> and plexiglass  deck hatch’s with something more contemporary in aluminum. ?
>
> Here is a link to an image
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5oh4ql9k5u4wt20/IMG_3869.jpg?dl=0
> 
>
>
> Best regards
> Mark Watson
>
> E: m...@watsonandson.com
> 14153092059
>
>
> N.B.  This email wa sent from my iPhone ... There WILL be typos
>
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

By adding a piece of 1 x 6 teak, it extended the bottom of the stairs
further out (forward) by 5 1/2 inches. I'll be at the boat today and take
some pictures.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:43 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan: I am having trouble visualizing the steps being "too steep"  do you
> have a photo or can you help describe what you did to make them less
> steep?  I always figured that the steps were generic to all of the C
> models... could they be different based upon each boat? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.5
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> To: C 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Sent: Thu, Oct 4, 2018 12:17 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C 34
>
> When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't
> think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep,
> so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in
> between them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the
> dados through the piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going
> up and down the stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and
> added Treadmaster to make the steps less slippery.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dainyrays.blogspot.com=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=X-Ti3GpESJSvudtXHSqpoISByKyItWMshb4D0xpyod4=3xeG7gD0TlIs56ex_aennwcHJpTGV8Tf9lJpyEzuccM=>
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C 34.  Wondering if
> they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > Andante, Victoria
> >
> >
> > __ _
> >
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing the stairs on C 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't
think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep,
so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in
between them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the
dados through the piece that I added. It's now a lot more comfortable going
up and down the stairs. I finished the stairs with Watco teak oil, and
added Treadmaster to make the steps less slippery.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 9:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My C stars were painted—so I repainted them.  Looks great now!
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> > On Oct 4, 2018, at 10:59 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I'm thinking about refinishing the stairs on our C 34.  Wondering if
> they are glued as well as screwed together.  Does anyone know?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > Andante, Victoria
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=
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> >
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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number
is: 206-935-4678.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000
> lbs for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to
> happen overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old
> Navtec IA-10 unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of
> the adjuster and the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.
>
> Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that
> could handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider
> replacing it with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block
> contraption?
>
> The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce
> settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> Snow Goose
> 35-1
> City Island, NY
> --
> ---
> Thomas C. Delaney
> 917-337-5524
>
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>
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Stus-List C ownership

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Don't let having a child stop you from sailing, Stephan. When our son was
just six months old, we put him in a car seat, strapped it to a winch and
went sailing.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

I have owned DejaVu, a 1990 34/36 for the past 7 years.  She is my third
C before her a 24' then another 34'.  We sailed the hell out of her all
around the Gulf of Mexico but now she sits on a custom trailer in Pensacola
Shipyard Marina.  The birth of a child will do that to you ;)   Thought
long and hard about parting ways with her but I cant do it, so she remains
sidelined and dearly missed for all the great adventures she surely brought
to us all who sailed her.  Maybe I will bring her up to Lake Lanier and
someday give her to my son Max, who is 2 years old.

Stephen Thorne
C 34/36 DejaVu
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Re: Stus-List Winter cover C 40

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Patricia:
If you like to sew, you can make a cover. Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) has a
DVD which is currently on sale for $9.95. You can use a standard sewing
machine for sewing sunbrella.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:52 AM, Patricia Walsh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The boat had a custom made frame and cover.  I still have the frame,
> however, I had to throw the cover out as it had rotted due to a leaking
> roof where it was stored. (I wish they had told us.)
> The frame is metal pipe.  I have four clamps to support the frame. I don't
> know if I should have more??
> I want to cover the boat.
> I would like to either buy a used cover or a tarp to put over the frame
> but I do not know the dimensions of the original cover or who made it so I
> could call and ask.
> My husband passed. He would have known. Can anyone help me?
> Thank you.
> Patricia
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Google "Cutlass bearing removal tool" and you will see several options.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.  Would you happen to remember the inside and out side diameter of
> the bearing?
>
> Gerald Fennessey
> gfennes...@verizon.net
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Howard and Skippy 
> Sent: Tue, Sep 25, 2018 10:14 am
> Subject: Stus-List Cutlass bearing
>
> Looking to replace the cutlass bearing
> on my 1985 35 mk3.
> Any info would be helpful.
>  Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?
> Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?
>
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
>
> Gerry, I had my cutlass bearing replaced a few seasons ago. I had to
> remove the prop and the marina had a special tool that pressed out the old
> bearing and then pressed in a new one without having to remove the shaft.
> The answer is yes, such a tool does exist. Ask around and hopefully you
> will be able to find a marina who has the tool. It makes life much easier.
> Howard Paul, Knot Again 84 35-3
> ___
>
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>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Colregs question for boats not in an organized race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

In a port/starboard situation, the starboard boat must hold her course
while the port boat must keep clear. There is no requirement for port to
pass astern of starboard, only that she keep clear. If she could have
passed in front of starboard without starboard having to change course,
then she would have satisfied the colregs. If the starboard boat had held
her course, and the port boat had been able to keep clear, then the colregs
rules would have been satisfied.  Because the starboard boat tacked too
close, she was at fault. The fact that two boats were "racing" is
immaterial. However, it would have been prudent for the port tack skipper
to hail the starboard skipper with his intentions. I do that all the time
when racing, so there is no misunderstanding. It also protects me if the
other boat does something that causes a collision.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Sep 21, 2018 at 10:11 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A friend described a situation from the past weekend that I would like to
> pose to the collective brain trust on this list.  There were three boats
> involved.  All three were out day sailing.  Two boats were travelling the
> same direction and the owners knew each other so they had an impromptu
> “race” as they were tacking upwind in a commercial harbour.  These two
> boats had no verbal agreement to race but they were each trying to best the
> other.  The third boat had a couple likely in their sixties out sailing by
> themselves.
>
>
>
> One of the two boats that was “racing” was on port tack (we will call this
> P) while the couple out sailing was on stbd tack (S).  The heolmsman on P
> decided he would pass close by the stern of S.  P passing astern of S is in
> my mind obeying Colregs in Canada.  However since P was being competitive P
> planned to pass close by the stern of S.  Before this could happen S tacked
> to port at close quarters not giving P sufficient room to avoid a
> collision.  The boats ended up colliding with the sides of the hulls
> touching but no readily apparent damage or injury to either party.  P
> hailed to S asking if everyone was OK and received no response and both
> boats proceeded on their way.
>
>
>
> So my question.  Is a port boat passing close astern of a Stbd boat
> sufficient to satisfy the Colregs?  Does S radically altering course
> without giving P room to keep clear mean that S has violated Colregs?
>
>
>
> I know that if this was an organized race that according to RRS S would be
> at fault.  I am wondering how this would be interepreted under Colregs?
> The third boat was involved only as a witness
>
>
>
> Thankfully I was not involved in this in any way.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stuck sail bag zippers

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced some of my corroded metal zipper pulls with plastic ones from
Sailrite. I don't know why they still use metal ones on plastic zippers.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 6:49 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just reporting back I soaked the zipper in vinegar for a few days.  Need
> to replace handle but zipper works like a charm.  Many thanks for the tip
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Pump

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I found a web site for a company in California that sells marine pumps.
The company is called Marine Pump direct. The Yanmar distributor wanted
$609 for a pump for my engine.  Marine pump Direct had an almost identical
pump, made by Johnson, for $239.

Customer service was great.  When I had some questions for the person who
answered the phone, he went to the warehouse while I was on the phone with
him, and measured the pump for me, and then set it aside when I told him I
would order it on line (cheaper than by phone). I placed the order on
Monday morning; it shipped Monday afternoon, and I received it this
afternoon by US postage. After I placed the order, someone from the company
called me and asked about my engine. He wanted to make sure I was ordering
the right pump for my engine.

I installed the pump this afternoon, and it fit and works perfectly.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thanks for the link.  Unfortunately they don't source Yanmar parts anymore.

Alan


On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 2:15 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> See the thread below from last year. Matthew may be able to help
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Matthew
> Schlanger via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>
> Thank you for all who responded.
> FYI
>
> As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good
> idea, I am opting to buy a new pump.
>
> I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.
> depcopump.com_=DwIF-g=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bjTjxKhJ2RortIxX8Sr7Zs2AH_
> DjwGwiwhzzC_UxqDI=tvxRCCI9gKTDyiOGsYq8dm0IcfNdG33YhJetDXvx4pY=
> I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.
>
> It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
> This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was
> similar - $528
> But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were
> marinized in Europe. - $242
> Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
> I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had
> the other pump or substituted for it.
> The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think
> has a split shaft.
> Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.
>
> I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or
> sell one.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> Nyack, NY
>
> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> Fix the pump if possible
>
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for
> my Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
>
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
>
>
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Stus-List Yanmar Parts

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a source for Yanmar engine parts at reasonable prices? The
local Yanmar distributor wants $609 for a new water pump.  It's about $100
cheaper on ebay.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Smartplug

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Kudos to SmartPlug Systems.  After Ken sent me a contact number for the
company, I asked Terry about a new strain relief for my plug, which I
bought when it was first introduced, many years ago. He said that there
would be no charge, and a week later I received a package with a warranty
kit consisting of the strain relief and a new internal assembly, which has
an upgraded strain relief mechanism.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 6:27 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Try this: http://smartplug.com/service-kits/
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__smartplug.com_service-2Dkits_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dtQXid0z0wJfhvS1RNxSUuicnrcWZTGo-GCPfxdSFW8=mPH5n6LR-IUneMYAP38xc3TtzB-8CYG2rBgOcRaGmXk=>
>
> or this: http://smartplug.com/contact-page/
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__smartplug.com_contact-2Dpage_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dtQXid0z0wJfhvS1RNxSUuicnrcWZTGo-GCPfxdSFW8=GQnysVcdI1d4iSh01qiHKRBW7VPoYKqxgFCRaU3Kpok=>
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sun, 19 Aug 2018 at 15:55, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug.  Does anyone have a contact
>> number for the company, or a source for the strain relief?
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I race with a 105, and cruise with a 135. With the 105, I run my sheets
through a fairlead a short distance aft of the shrouds, then through a
fairlead further aft, through a turning block and then to the forward
winch. With the 135, I run the sheets the same way but eliminate the
forward fairlead.  When I'm single handing, I use the aft winch. My
primaries are #28, and my secondaries are #23ST. With either winch, I use
two wraps on the winch until I have some sheet tension, and then add one or
two more wraps before cranking with a winch handle. Otherwise, I get
overrides. The dodger doesn't interfere with the (10") winch handle.  Can
you sail with the dodger collapsed? Will an 8" winch handle clear the
dodger? After reading about sheet angle, I'm going to try going from the
fairlead directly to the winch, without using the turning block.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 4:23 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey, this talk of winch lead angles has me pondering again the setup we
> use on Secret Plans, I'm wondering what other 35-3 owners do.  We
> usually run the jib sheets on the secondaries (aft pair of winches)
> because on the primaries the winch handle hits the dodger, and if we use
> the secondaries I (while steering) can also crank the winch.  The line
> comes off the jib track block, back to the cheek block adjacent to the
> secondary winch, and up at a horrible angle onto the winch.  Which leads
> to more friction than there should be.
>
> I'm thinking of just going from the block on the track to the winch.
>
> Any better setups?  Cutting back the dodger isn't on the table. How do
> other 35-3 owners do it?
>
> regards,
>
> --
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
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> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=EOE6lkX-0Czlr_
> x0Pk0b-XrQasCgU7DGqKFUqPJ6OM4=tNSJ7UGxAzJTQjnvYaUN86zkf46Eb6
> eZOryKsEbieHo=
>
>
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Stus-List Smartplug

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug.  Does anyone have a contact
number for the company, or a source for the strain relief?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.

Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.
All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the
electrical panel ground bus.  Then the ground bus should be connected to
the engine block.

Alan
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Mike:

A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and
Electrical Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an
insulated ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main
distribution panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus."
In other words, don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground
bus.  Each piece of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground
bus.

Alan


On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Alan
>
>
>
> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost
> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge
> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed,
> every 6 to 8 weeks
>
>
>
> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the
> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that
> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.
> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the
> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside
> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25
> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw
> voltage.
>
>
>
> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might
> be creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>
>
>
> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist
> out there.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike
> C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>
>
>
> *From: *ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
> *To: *C 
> *Cc: *ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
>
> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're
> cheaper than magnesium.
>
>
>
> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC
> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter
> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be
> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a
> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob
>
>
>
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>
>
>
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for
> the type of water your boats in?
>
>
>
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
>
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dainyrays.blogspot.com=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=Wa3qqugmtpAwXVFKMv4mxeeuUh8qI-Q-QEkwBjxxvQo=>
>
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks
>
>
>
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic
> corrosion or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi
> meter, ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt,
> mast and through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on
> the wind generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery
> leads.  Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when
> I hauled out to do the centre board.
>
>
>
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this
> methodically and what I should look for.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mike
>
> PERSUASION
>
> C 37 *(k/cb) *shoal draft
>
> Long Sault
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the l

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're
cheaper than magnesium.

To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC
line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter
should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be
pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a
return path, other than through the AC supply line.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob
>
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>
> Mike
>
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for
> the type of water your boats in?
>
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
>
> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks
>
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic
> corrosion or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi
> meter, ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt,
> mast and through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on
> the wind generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery
> leads.  Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when
> I hauled out to do the centre board.
>
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this
> methodically and what I should look for.
>
>
> Thanks in advance
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 *(k/cb) *shoal draft
> Long Sault
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=6TDTN3EQ7I80Q-
> k6fidTyrTJYYR_NiZP1etzSo1Nj8E=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here are two links.  One for eBay and one for Defender Industries.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SmartPlug-B50ASSY-50-Amp-Inlet-Connector-Combo-Kit-Shorepower-Products-and/232811872531?epid=1118878419=item3634ab4113%3Ag%3AJL4AAOSwQV5bKSIg&_sacat=0&_nkw=Smart+cordset&_from=R40=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.XSmart+cordset.TRS0

https://search.defender.com/?Action=2=82189=QT1TbWFydCBQbHVnfkI9U21hcnQgUGx1Z35EPTI1fkk9UHJpY2V_Sz00fkw9MX5NPTF_=5d06443e-4a18-475a-abdf-a037c1340d40=1

Alan


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 8:11 AM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Alan.
> Could you provide a pic or link for smart plugs???
> Thanks
> Ron C.
>
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
> Sent: 2018-08-07 10:06:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>
> A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in
> without any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged
> in, the cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly
> complete with cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings
> yourself.  That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco
> inlet.
>
> I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30
> amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
>> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
>> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about
>> $40
>> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new
>> attachment
>> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
>> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having
>> to
>> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>>
>> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>>
>> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on
>> the
>> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail
>> to
>> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
>> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> Bradley
>> Lumgair via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
>> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>>
>> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
>> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
>> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
>> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic)
>> and
>> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
>> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this
>> year.
>> Thanks
>> Brad
>> Pulse C 33 MKII
>> Lake Huron
>>
>> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=
>> DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g4
>> 8D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc=
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=
>> DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g4
>> 8D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc=
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> P2o0heQmWwK42r7a0VQ6UZaFJ1ap5jkrSAyqyqVq9Sg=
> 

Re: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet.  The cable snaps in without
any threads.  The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the
cover snaps down into place.  You can buy the \whole assembly complete with
cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.
That's what I did when I found charred contacts on the Marinco inlet.

I also made adapters to cover all possible arrangements - 15, 20, and 30
amps.  I haven't made a 50 amp adapter, but that comes next.



Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 6:37 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just bought one last month for a boat I was delivering, at West Marine.
> The complete assembly is about $55. Or you can buy just the stainless
> mounting parts and cover for about $45, and the electrical part at about
> $40
> as separate items. On the new stainless assembly, I liked the new
> attachment
> for the cover a lot - you put the cover in place and turn it about 60
> degrees to engage two bosses into the threaded parts, rather than having to
> thread the cover on as you do with the old style inlet on my boat.
>
> I'm sure you can find the item less expensively on Amazon or EBay.
>
> I have been in 3 marinas in the last month that had only 50 amp power on
> the
> docks, and had tto borrow or rent a 50 amp male to 30 amp female pigtail to
> plug in my boat. I decided to buy one and found Marinco is right proud of
> them - pushing $150. I found a new one on line for $79.
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley
> Lumgair via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 10:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
> Subject: Stus-List Marinco shore power inlet
>
> I broke the threaded boss in the shore power inlet the other day on Pulse,
> ordered a new one from amazon, and an ez lock collar for the cord. Looks
> like it's all going to fit, more or less, however when I took the inlet
> apart, 2 of the rear enclosure mounting corners are broken off (plastic)
> and
> the gaskets are done. Does anyone know of a source for parts for Marinco
> fittings? 30a 110v stainless. Don't really want to buy a new one this year.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Pulse C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> 3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_
> EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc=
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> 3B8LYPoGpJPkO92J0g48D1H2Dm6uPNCQjv94LsDC720=8VJD8Im6aYN9Zy0vDXE2_
> EmdSvd6oi4gSlXwj4Ishkc=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice on new racing Jib

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My PHRF is 132 with a 105% genoa.  That's down from 123 with a 150 % genoa,
and 129 with a 135 % genoa.  Remember, these are ratings for the Pacific NW
for a 35 Mk III.  With a different boat, and different geographical
location, yours may be different.

Alan


On Fri, Aug 3, 2018 at 4:59 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does your PHRF adjust down to 105?
>
> From my Android
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 2, 2018 10:19:13 PM
> *To:* C
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Advice on new racing Jib
>
> I race with a 105% North genoa, and I point higher than anyone else in the
> fleet.  Also makes for faster tacks, doesn't backwind the main and it gives
> me a better handicap.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My C 34-36 R came with some Quantum Fusion Laminate racing
>> sails…over-sized main and 165% Genoa…I’ve been using my heavy Dacron
>> cruising sail…110 for casual racing whereas the 165% is a bit large with a
>> min. crew.
>>
>> What are folks happy with with their head racing sail manufacturer?
>>
>> James Bibb
>> SV Darwin’s Folly C 34-36R
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=
>> DwIGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=R9n_RTT4HdYb1MxMjfg
>> G3z7E-4gWU2qe5K_QJHOY7vE=609A6YcherxEO17Cv7TeYMaAPI1PAY0-LipwZ0JluVA=
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
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> XBTG69SjSHJWMOFmuJ1vCjFUE2yNnFf392s4mPTjU5I=
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice on new racing Jib

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I race with a 105% North genoa, and I point higher than anyone else in the
fleet.  Also makes for faster tacks, doesn't backwind the main and it gives
me a better handicap.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My C 34-36 R came with some Quantum Fusion Laminate racing
> sails…over-sized main and 165% Genoa…I’ve been using my heavy Dacron
> cruising sail…110 for casual racing whereas the 165% is a bit large with a
> min. crew.
>
> What are folks happy with with their head racing sail manufacturer?
>
> James Bibb
> SV Darwin’s Folly C 34-36R
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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