Stus-List EV100 Wheel Pilot clutch

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Just where I put the grease on mine to cure the squeal. It worked.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  >        Here is a diagram that shows where to lube the clutch eccentrics:
>
>        
>https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HNjG3Nxe0HabHO0ivSHWfduGj0Kd6VM3/view?usp=sharing
>
>        Let me know if there are problems viewing it. ?Dave
>
>        S/V Aries
>
>        1990 C&C 34+
>
>        New London, CT

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Stus-List EV100 Wheel Pilot clutch

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I just bought a new ev100 wheel pilot and after about 6 hours of use it started 
to squeal. Problem was the same, squeak was in the clutch roller on the 
eccentric attached to the clutch handle. The eccentric on the other side of the 
motor is the tension adjuster, and it is a mirror image of the clutch 
eccentric. The roller and the eccentric are both plastic, and a bit (emphasis 
on a bit - a very thin layer) of grease on the inside of the rollers fixed the 
problem. I was warned not to get grease on the belt or the drive cog wheel, 
which makes sense.
Dan SheerPegathy Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Outboard Motor for Dinghy

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 I've owned a Honda 2 long shaft for a decade now, it powers my 1966 O'Day 
Daysailer, 17' centerboard, quite adequately. Except for replacing the carb, 
it's done me well. Well enough that I bought a Honda 2 short shaft for my 
dinghy to avoid carrying the motor back and forth - $250 used, needed a carb, 
~$65 and easy to replace. Parts for the Honda 2 are still readily available, 
and not ridiculously priced. 

The trick to keeping the carbs going is to drain the gas out before putting it 
away for more than a week. And by drain, I mean open the screw in the carb 
bowl, not just running it out of gas. Takes about 2-3 minutes, with a bit of a 
mess; there's still some gas left (not much) after you run it till it stops. 
It's the alcohol in the gas that gums things up. Using alcohol free gas helps, 
but even then, draining the bowl is a good idea. 

The motors are noisy, I will say that, but they push the dink and even the 
Daysailer just fine. In fact, I once towed Pegathy with the dink powered by the 
Honda 2 when my raw water pump belt failed. That was in the tight quarters, 
ship traffic, and strong currents of the C&D canal which has no place to 
anchor. The stock prop is pitched low enough to pull that off. Couldn't move 
fast, but it kept me out of BIG trouble while we replaced the belt. Always 
carry spare belts.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy - Landfall 38, Rock Creek off the Patapsco


 On Saturday, May 30, 2020, 08:12:40 PM EDT, 
 wrote:  
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  C&C 32 - toerail bolts (Dave Godwin)
  2. Re:  Outboard motor for dinghy (JP Mail)
  3. Re:  Outboard motor for dinghy (James Hesketh)
  4. Re:  Outboard motor for dinghy (Sylvain Laplante)
  5. Re:  Outboard motor for dinghy (Joe Della Barba)
  6. Re:  Outboard motor for dinghy (Joe Della Barba)
  7.  Two things: (Patrick Wesley)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 15:52:09 -0400
From: Dave Godwin 
To: C&C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts
Message-ID: <350f698f-eb78-442c-bd21-27e1af894...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Adam,

Confirmed. Toe-rail bolts for a 1982 C&C 37? are 1/4?-20.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin?s Overdue Refit 

> On May 30, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Adam,
> 
> I?m 99.999% certain that you will find that your toenail is bolted down using 
> 1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head (machine) screws. Length dependent on your 
> hull/deck joint. IN the U.S. I buy them in bulk from McMaster-Carr. Much 
> cheaper that way. When I was in Melbourne last I didn?t run across any 
> hardware stores so dunno?. ;-)
> 
> I suspect that as I found, 80/85% of all fasteners that I removed from my 
> topsides were that size bolt.
> 
> I?m on my way to my boat to continue working on installing new lifeline 
> stanchions and will measure just to be absolutely sure.
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On May 30, 2020, at 4:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C&C 32 
>> is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
>> finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both 
>> sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some 
>> really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min 
>> length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 
>> 30-40 of them. 
>> 
>> Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
>> new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced 
>> some butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products 
>> here.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Adam Johnson
>> '84 C&C 32 
>> Melbourne, Australia
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your c

Stus-List . Re: C&C Lister Roll Call

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Dan Sheer/ Pegathy/ C&C Landfall 38/ 1980/ 30238/ dansh...@yahoo.com

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 158, Issue 44

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Here's my two cents. I almost never use the main - at all - in heavy wind, 
upwind or downwind. I roller furl till it's comfortable, and that's that. To 
jibe single handed, I first wrap the jib on the opposite side, pull out all the 
slack and then a bit more, and cleat it - easy with a self-tailer.  Then I 
jibe. The now short sheet on the opposing side keeps the jib from wrapping. 
Then I set the autopilot to hold heading and trim the sail. Been doing this for 
a long time, locking the tiller or wheel when there was no autopilot. 

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

On Monday, March 18, 2019, 1:16:52 PM EDT, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:  
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake
      (Della Barba, Joe)
  2.  Headsail only in strong winds astern (cenel...@aol.com)
  3. Re:  Headsail only in strong winds astern (Marek Dziedzic)
  4. Re:  [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern
      (Della Barba, Joe)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2019 16:08:28 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]  Re:  Gybe preventer, now Boom
    Brake
Message-ID:
    <4ecb53578fae4fb7bc9fff1eb9742...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

That too. We had an awesome run down the Severn with the wind blowing 55+ and 
ripping foam off the wavetops and throwing it up in the trees ashore. We didn't 
even think about the main, the working jib alone gave us a steady 10-11 knots 
boatspeed. Everything was going great until we had to turn around and then 
discovered our speed under motor was about 0.5 knots!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake

Or leave the main down downwind.  Anytime it blowing hard enough to worry about 
jibing,  main is probably not going to add alot of speed, but will cause more 
helm and worry.

Jib alone is so simple.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2019 16:25:15 + (UTC)
From: cenel...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern
Message-ID: <1031802045.7315475.1552926315...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Agree with philosophy of not using main in heavy winds astern.?
OTOH, I wonder about the unbalanced forces on the stays/boat when a stern wind 
is 30+ knots even with some ofthe 'telephone pole' masts on some C&Cs when only 
a head sail is flown.
Mine mast is rather bendy with check stays and in high winds downwind, in 
addition to keeping her under control, I admit to some fear of a gravity storm 
if I only used the head sail (or with both sails for that matter!).
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcb

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Mar 18, 2019 12:09 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake

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{font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;} #yiv9367103573 

Stus-List Genoa shackles

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 I use soft shackles as well. Made them myself, not hard. Far superior to metal 
shackles, particularly for this application. Much less likely to damage 
something when flapping around. My head, in particular.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List Landfall 38 stemhead bow roller replacement (Dreuge)

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Very nice. I want to do this myself, but I'd like it to accomodate 2 anchors, 
my 20kg Bruce and a Danforth 40 (the PO's were not shy about anchors). May send 
you a note when I get to doing it. I need to get a round tuit.
Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List mystery item

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I actually know what that is. Back in the Old Silurian period (a million years 
ago next November according to Mark Twain) I learned to sail racing on an 
Alberg 30 with a roller furling boom. In those days - remember, dinosaurs still 
roamed the earth - a roller furling boom had a gear next to the gooseneck - 
with a hand crank - that turned the boom, and the mainsail wrapped around the 
outside of the boom to reef. In order to do this, one first had to disconnect 
the vang from the boom. The contraption you're holding made that easy. it was 
snapped on the boom just forward of mid-boom using the slot between the two 
"rollers" (they actually didn't roll on the one we used, maybe they do on 
yours). The vang was connected to the bottom. When reefing, the contraption was 
removed and the crank used to wrap the sail around the boom. Once the sail was 
wrapped around the boom, the contraption was reattached, with the "rollers" 
sitting on the sail. The skipper didn't like that, but it was the only option. 

I was called on to reef the sail on rare occasion - Alberg 30s are pretty stiff 
boats, but they are slow, too, so we sometimes got stuck out in squalls. So, I 
have actually used a similar piece of equipment. 

I'd ask if you wanted to get rid of it - my 1966 O'Day Daysailer has an 
original roller furling boom which has no attachment for a vang when reefed, 
per above. However, because the boom's so small I doubt yours would fit. If 
anyone has a tiny version, please let me know. Then I could use the roller 
furler when my one slab reef point isn't enough, which is any time I get stuck 
out in a storm on that boat - it has only human ballast. I could reef to my 
heart's content. They don't make 'em like they used to. 

Wait, that's good, I think.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Refridge fan

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just brought  a camco fan for about 10 bucks. Runs over  a month on alkaline D 
cells. Also has an activated carbon filter. Could be run with rechargeable 
cells I believe. Works great. Amazon. 
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  
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Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just had the Coast Guard auxiliary check Pegathy. That's a good idea because 
they give you a sticker which, I am told, makes it less likely that you will be 
boarded. Besides telling me to make my preservers more accessibile (they were 
underneath the throwable Type V seat cushions), he told me that the new regs 
require fire extinguishers to be replaced after 12 years, and showed me the 
manufacture year stamped on the bottom of the cylinder. Mine were still good, 
but, he told me that when mine expired I should get new ones to show the CG if 
they boarded, but that it was not necessary to throw out the old ones if the 
pressure was still good on the gauge. Made sense to me. 

He said my sawed off conch shell would serve to meet the horn requirement.

Also, he told me that there is a new version of the No Garbage placard that is 
now required, and he gave me a vinyl stick on replacement. Seems that several 
years ago Congress required a new placard, but that time, no one made them. 
This is the first year that they are available. That's all I know.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 68

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Per previous, Pegathy has a Chesapeake Sailmakers stack pack - not attached to 
the sail. I can drop the sail quickly, with the pack fully up - and - if I'm 
into the wind - it will mainly flake itself. That said, when I have crew, I 
will go to the mast and flake it as someone else lets the sail down slowly. 
Seems neater, that's about it. I have the lazy jacks marked to that the pack is 
always at the same tension when I let down the sail. It was installed at that 
tension, and I don't adjust it after the stack pack is zipped. I expect that 
over or under tension might interfere with the process, but I don't know. 

I usually have a bit of "arranging" to do before zipping, nothing substantial. 
I'm 6'; I can reach the top of the stack pack to zip it. My main is quite heavy 
cloth, so it is stiff.
I have 3/16th line attached to the car, I think. Knot in the end. 8 - 10 inches.

When cruising, I leave the pack up. It does interfere with the flow over the 
foot of the main, obviously, but when I'm cruising, I don't care. I have raced 
with the pack up. I don't win. 

There has been some wear where the detachable front flap hits the mast. Had 
some non-chafing patches sewn on this year - 3rd season. When racing I lash the 
pack to the cover and run the jack lines so they lie tight against the boom and 
mast. I do this by running them under their cleat, which is boom high on the 
mast. Quick and easy to do. I had some chafe where the pack rubbed on the jib 
sheet on an extended broad reach (Cape May to Montauk Pt. Had a non-chafing 
patch installed - not expensive.
Hope that helps.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy - LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

I am new to the stack pack family - just installed this week. Ours is a Doyle 
Cradle Cover (Doyle Stack Pack not attached to the sail).  Mast had a Tides 
track.  The sail is also new a North 3Di and very stiff.  I could use any tips 
on handling this system because I'm having trouble getting the sail into the 
cover enough to zip it up.  Zipper and top of cover is approx. 8' above the 
deck at the mast. Very hard to reach especially over the cockpit.  Have 1 step 
at the mast but still feel like Tarzan swinging from a vine when putting the 
sail in. It would probably help if I were 7' tall!

Questions:

(1) should the cover be fully up when dropping the sail or eased?

(2) what kind of extension or line do people use on the zipper car? There's a 
you tube video of a continuous line zipper trolley that looks good but no info 
on how it's rigged.

(3) is it typical to have to "stuff" the sail into the cover before zipping? Or 
is my problem just a new stiff sail?

(4) can the mast cover be left in place when sailing, dropping the sail?

(5) is it better to let the sail drop quickly - letting go of the halyard - or 
easing it down?

(6) any other helpful hints would be appreciated.


thanks

Tony

C&C 41 C/B #96

Triumph


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Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy has a stack pack made by Chesapeake sailmakers. It's wonderful. Head to 
wind, drop the main, zip it up. 

Well, not quite that easy, usually have to push the sail of the top edge of the 
pack and inside, but close.
The front comes off and the pack can be lashed to the boom for racing, with the 
jacks tied along the mast for minimal windage. This requires a loose foot main.
One of the most beneficial improvements I've made to the boat.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 29

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 08:32:48 -0500
Ray,

Had a similar issue with my LF38. My mechanic found a leak originating outside 
just above the keel joint and then through to the bottom of the bilge just aft 
of the keel. We identified it by water dripping out and leaving marks over the 
winter. My bilge pumps had been running - not constantly, but frequently. He 
thinks it was the long term result of a blister. He drilled and ground it out 
till he found dry material, then filled it with glass and resin. I put on 
barrier coat and paint. It is now dry.

This is somewhat different from "seeping through the walls of the bilge, as 
there were identifiable entry and exit points, but I hope it helps. If there is 
a lot of water coming in, then when you pull the boat and fill the bilge with 
water, you should see it coming out.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

From: Raymond Macklin To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue
since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I
took a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls
of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I
saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very
bottom of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I
cannot do much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on
the lift.  I was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was
not good at all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any
other area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 29
*
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Stus-List Prop pitch

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Try this spreadsheet.
http://www.surfbaud.co.uk/wave/
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Josh,
White Rocks Marina, where Pegathy is docked, has lots of transient slips, and 
Mike's Crab House North on the property (though it may be closed in early 
October). It's 33 min from Annapolis by car. Maryland Yacht club is also 
nearby, and might host the rendezvous. It's about 4-5 hours north of Annapolis 
under sail.  Also an easy sail to Ft. McHenry and Baltomore's Inner Harbor. I 
can check out both if you wish. 

Dan
Repeat Post, the first didn't make it.
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Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C rendezvous

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Josh,
White Rocks Marina, where Pegathy is docked, has lots of transient slips, and 
Mike's Crab House North on the property (though it may be closed in early 
October). It's 33 min from Annapolis by car. Maryland Yacht club is also 
nearby, and might host the rendezvous. It's about 4-5 hours north of Annapolis 
under sail.  Also an easy sail to Ft. McHenry and Baltomore's Inner Harbor. I 
can check out both if you wish. 

Dan

On Sunday, December 10, 2017, 12:01:38 PM EST, 
 wrote:  
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  new haylards (Josh Muckley)
  2.  2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C rendezvous (Josh Muckley)
  3. Re:  new haylards (Gary Nylander)
  4. Re:  new haylards (Edd Schillay)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:27:20 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Consider the PS article in the link below.  I've been very happy with Yale
Crystaline and Sampson Warpspeed.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ

Also consider the excerpt (source unknown) below:
I was taught (by an English race crew) that Mainsail controls are always
green, jib sails blue and spinnakers red. Halyards are solid colors and
sheets, outhauls etc. flecked or with tracers. (By following this
convention, crews are able to move from boat-to-boat without having to be
re-educated.)

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Dec 10, 2017 6:08 AM, "T power via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
>
> I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C&C 30 MKI,
> my foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used by new
> sailor for cruising.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Tom Power 
> Invictus
> C&C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:34:21 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C rendezvous
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ok guys (and gals),

Sorry if this is a repeat.  It didn't look like my first email ever hit the
server.

The dates for the Annapolis Sailboat show have been released as well as my
work/vacation schedule for 2018.  You might remember that I had mapped the
distances which people were willing to drive and boat.  The resulting area
which attracted the most people was more or less a zone on the western
shore of the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and Solomons.  We could get
as many as 29 people total and 13 by boat!

The dates which I'm looking at are October 1st through the 8th (this
encompasses the sailboat show which is the 4th through the 8th) and October
26th to the 1st.  If held during the later dates we can easily hold the
rendezvous in Annapolis since dockage and mooring won't be a problem.  If
held during the earlier dates (during the boat show) we could hold the
rendezvous at nearby towns within a 30 minute drive of the boat show.  I'm
personally leaning towards the later dates since Annapolis is such a great
town to visit and has such good boating amenities; It would be nice if
everyone had a chance to see it without the craziness of the boat show.  If
during the boat show is the preference then I was thinking that maybe
Herrington Harbor North or somewhere in Deal, MD would be nice.  For those
who want to attend the boat show Deal is only a 30 minute drive.  I'm sure
there are marinas elsewhere closer to Annapolis yet away from the crowds
that I'm not aware of.  I'm eager to hear everyones thoughts and
suggestions.


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:48:46 -0500
From: "Gary Nylander" 
To: 
Subject:

Stus-List Small lightweight outboard

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

When I got my 17' ODay Daysailer, Jamm Session, it came with a 2002 2hp Honda 
outboard, long shaft. That little motor, with its low pitch prop, pushes the 
750+ pound Jamm Session around at close to 5 knots. I also used it on my 8.5' 
inflatable dink, and once used the dink to tow 17K lb Pegathy to keep her off 
the rip rap in the C&D canal when my alternator belt failed. Didn't go fast, 
but was enough to maintain control in a fairly swift current. I just purchased 
a short shaft version of the same motor to allow me to motor the dink in closer 
to shore without oars, and to leave the long shaft on the Jamm Session. 
The 2003? version cost me $275 off Craigslist, (new, 2.3hp version is ~ $900) 
though I had to be patient and wait till one showed up. Never found one on 
EBay. It's 4 stroke, and air cooled, so it's simple to work on (had to take it 
apart and clean it up after I capsized the Daysailer in salt water). Parts are 
readily available and not expensive. 26 lbs. The Davis motor carrier fits great 
and works well with my motor/MOB  hoist on Pegathy. The carrier is $20-30 
on-line, and worth the investment IMO. If you can find one, I highly recommend 
this motor. One caution, DRAIN THE CARB after use, using the drain screw or by 
running it dry. Else, the carb gums up and requires cleaning.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Stus-List LF 38 prop and vdrive and prop walk

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Fred,
Pegathy's stern goes strongly to port in reverse, not to starboard, as yours 
seems to do. She does not, however, have the original v-drive, the PO had to 
replace it when reverse failed in sea trials during the survey. The PO was not 
happy, but I suspect he didn't have a clue it was about to fail. And the 
bascule bridge we were headed for managed to open before we hit it. Lucky me.
Dan
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Stus-List lf 38 prop

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy has a two blade MaxProp. Seems to work fine, very good in reverse, 
although there is a lot of prop walk. There is also vibration, but this may or 
may not be the prop. I certainly would not trade it for a fixed prop.
Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Cautionary Tale

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience last year, and posted it on this list. In my case 
the zincs kept the shaft in the boat. Don't ask me how, but my mechanic knows 
how to get the hub off the shaft to change the cutlass bearing without pulling 
the tranny.
Dan SheerPegathyLF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Stus-List furling line

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I just replaced my line with 3/8 polyester. Easier on the hands, plenty of room 
on the drum. As pointed out, strength is not an issue. Sometimes it's easier to 
use the winch to furl the sail, but it is never hard, so my guess is I've never 
had a line load of over 150 lbs. It's wear and tear on my hands I'm reducing.
Also, make sure the line angle off the drum is perpendicular, or nearly so. 
Makes a big difference. Mine's lead through a fair lead attached to the aft 
stanchion on the pulpit. Easily adjusted. And cheap.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List So it works for Plexiglass, does it work for eisenglass?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

In other words, can I get the scuffs off the eisenglass on my dodger with 
really fine sand paper followed by compound and polish?
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38, Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Joe,
I'm a big believer in bilge pumps. Pegathy has 2, 2000 gph each, on separate 
float switches and separate toggle switches. I've had pumps fail many times, 
for unknown reasons. More than increasing your capacity, I'd recommend 
installing a spare pump with the float switch set slightly higher than the 
primary pump, just in case of failure. Pretty cheap insurance, if you ask me.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I like Cetol, but I don't use it on my exterior teak. I'm a Semco believer. 
When I got Pegathy the exterior varnish was useless. Had to be stripped off. It 
was a Royal Paine Diaz, as Click and Clack would say. I put on two coats of 
Semco Honeytone. Had to put on a third later that year. Next year, two coats as 
well. Since then one coat a year. The teak looks great and feels like wood. 
Never have to sand or strip. If the rain has washed it off, I just put on one 
coat each spring. Application (with a foam brush ever-so-lightly dipped in the 
juice) is as easy as can be. It's very thin and flows on easily, and seals (and 
fills to some extent) the teak. Wouldn't go back to varnish unless someone put 
a gun to my head.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up 
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used 
this technique - 
Better Soft Shackle - 
 Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use 
smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make the first one. 
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of. 
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless 
you like that kind of music.
Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  
|  
|   |  
Better Soft Shackle
 This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common 
version.  |  |

  |

 

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 5:33 PM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 131, Issue 50
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Rewiring mast and anchor light.. (Steve Thomas)
  2. Re:  Rewiring mast and anchor light.. (syerd...@gmail.com)
  3. Re:  C&C35 Mk1 Compass (Dennis C.)
  4.  Fastening Jib Sheets (Chuck Saur)
  5. Re:  Fastening Jib Sheets (Dennis C.)
  6. Re:  Fastening Jib Sheets (Joel Aronson)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 15:34:47 -0500
From: Steve Thomas 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
Message-ID: <20161211153447.D4LW1.17128.root@toroondcmxzfep01>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I also worked for a company that made wiring harnesses once upon a time, but we 
were mass producing them for cars. There too, all connections were crimped, but 
there is one big difference between the OEM approach and the usual aftermarket 
stuff sold for use with hand tools. The aftermarket connectors usually come 
with an insulating sleeve that is intended to be left in place while doing the 
crimp. I have found this practice to yield unreliable and unpredictable 
connections. I have purchased a half a dozen different crimping tools, some 
with a compound action and multiple interchangeable jaws, and have not found a 
reliable combination yet.

On the other hand, a correctly sized bare metal connector matched with the 
correct crimp dies yields a secure connection every time. There just isn't any 
comparison in reliability in my experience. 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL 

 G Collins via CnC-List  wrote: 
Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at the 
Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the parking lot 
as a warning to others!  We built wire harnesses for tanks, helicopters, and 
fighter jets.

I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw 
your attention to the 2nd last page.

As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if you 
are buying quantities.  If you only need 4 then not so great.

A good quality crimp tool is key.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11





--

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:06:21 -0500
From: syerd...@gmail.com
To: G Collins 
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
Message-ID: <5c3855d8-7c3a-4517-82a3-619202bf7...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Lol - tough QA team!    What happened if you were late for work?
Good doc, I probably read in in my AMP training in.  '86 - my first job, we 
were an Amp shop.  And yes, we (later job) soldered and potted the amphenol and 
cannon connectors, crimped (only) the Reel fed terminals, heat shrunk 
everything, incl fancy moulded boots.  (Aircraft landing gear parts and some 
other small contracts I don't remember.)  My point was more about the slick 
professional appearance of the tightly heatshrinked connection, not the 
soldered crimp.  For sure I would not solder then crimp.  
Agreed on the tool, and I know very few non-industry people with decent crimp 
tools.    The tool I have is better than most, (panduit)  but is not a 
controlled-cycle tool with precise, fitted dies, etc.  This is why I prefer an 
uninsulated closed barrel terminal done as mentioned,  and why I don't use 
pre-insulated terminals if I have others on hand.  (given the less than perfect 
crimp, I doubt the crimp-nuance in the doc is relevant. )
Anyway, hair-splitting I suppose in this application.

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

Re: Stus-List Short handed sailing; sail selection - now lazy jacks

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Two years ago I had Chesapeake Sailmakers make a stack pack for Pegathy. The 
actual admiral (Pegathy's her college nickname) is less than 5'. That's all 
she'll admit to. So it's difficult for her to help flake a main that's sliding 
all over the cabin top, much less help put on the sailcover. And it's not a one 
person job on a 38' boat. Except now it is, with the stack pack. The sails 
raises on slides in the mast, and even if there's no one at the mast 
encouraging the sail to flake properly (a one man job), the sail flakes pretty 
well anyway, as long as the boat's dead into the wind. It's wonderfully easy - 
lower and zip, and I leave the stack pack on and raised unless I'm racing. 

The main is loose footed, so the stack pack attaches to the boom via a sewn in 
tape that slides in the the boom slot. The whole thing can be tied close to the 
main with sail ties under the main for racing. The lazy jacks can then be led 
along the boom, straight up, then down the mast around a single cleat on each 
side. There's a flap that goes around the front of the boom and attaches with 
zippers to each side of the stack pack. All in all a wonderful arrangement, and 
easy to install and remove.

Two complaints - 

1) the boat needs to be dead into the wind when raising and when lowering the 
sail, or the battens catch the  jacks, and 

2) the stack pack can chafe on the jib sheets when tied to the boom going 
downwind. 

These are nothing when compared to the reduction in effort in raising, 
lowering, and covering the sail. I wouldn't be without it ever again. Oh, and I 
have a pacific blue sail sunbrella cover for an LF38 - very good condition, 
used 2 seasons - for sale if anyone wants it.
Dan SheerPegathy, LF38 
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List MO Pole refurb

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

For what it's worth, I refurbed Pegathy's MO pole 2 years ago. Sanded the 
fiberglass pole, painted it with Krylon for plastic. Has held up well. Peeled 
the rubber coating from the float, and painted that with the rubber coating 
used for pliers' handles. That's held up well, too, but it's not smooth - it 
shows the imperfections in the foam used for the float. I don't care. I use and 
old MO light which must be turned on manually when deploying. Less than ideal, 
but it's attached to the pole just below the flag at the top and shines 360 
degrees - a definite advantage for both swimmer and remaining crew.  

Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Stus-List Folding Prop won't open - prop size.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I have a 2 blade MaxProp which feathers rather than folds, but I also had a 
vibration problem. My mechanic suggested that the length of shaft from the 
strut to the prop was to long. He extended the key slot at the front of the 
shaft by about 2" and drilled new dimples for the set screws. It got rid of 
much of the vibration. Not all, but quite a lot. Unfortunately the coupling at 
the tranny was worn, and eventually the shaft slipped out prior to the start of 
a race. Was able to re-insert the shaft in the coupling with much grunting and 
groaning, but missed the race. Had to replace the coupling. Since then all's 
been good enough. 

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

When I bought Pegathy, I bought the cheapest Garmin chartplotter. Once you've 
sailed with a chartplotter, you never want to be without. I also have Marine 
Navigator on my smartphone and both the Garmin app (accesses the Active Captain 
data base, a pretty useful piece) and Open GL navigator, both on the boat 
laptop. The next year, I bought the Garmin 10 and mast top and depth finder 
package and added them - same manufacturer, no problem. Changing settings is a 
non-issue, along with updates. The Garmin products work. There are many things 
about them I'm not particularly fond of - one is that the operation is NOT 
intuitive - but they work. The only thing that's failed is the depth transducer 
- an AirMar.

Two years later I bought a Lowrance VHF with AIS on NMEA 2000. The Lowrance 
needs the gps signal from the chartplotter. The original wouldn't read the 
network. Nor would the second. But, they sent a third, and it just plugged in 
and worked, sending AIS target locations to the chartplotter - a wonderful 
thing when sailing at night on the Chesapeake. So, at least some 
interoperability in the NMEA 2000 world works.

When I replace Walter, my Autohelm 3000, I'll likely go Garmin so I can be sure 
it will work. I will do my damndest to ensure that the Garmin Autohelm will 
talk to a tablet. I don't know what I'll do if it won't. Probably find another 
brand that will. I expect that when the Garmin chartplotter goes, or I decide I 
really, really need a bigger screen, I'll go with a tablet mounted at the helm. 
I expect that by that time the standard will work well across all sensors - 
including driver updates. 

Dem's my 2 cents.
Dan SheerPegathy, LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco



  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 10:49 AM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 128, Issue 86
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
    cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and (Dave S)
  2. Re:  Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot
      business (Dreuge)
  3. Re:  Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and (David)
  4. Re:  Repainting Waterline Stripe... (Dave Godwin)
  5. Re:  Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot
      business! (RANDY)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2016 10:17:18 -0400
From: Dave S 
To: "C&c Stus List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Pete - patience man, I'm a 53 year old luddite!

The realization of how all this "fits" is just dawning on me, and many of
the writings I have read on the subject are now making much more sense.
Thanks for the Garmin info, they too have an n2k updater it seems.  They
don't promote these aggressively , but at least they are available.

For the record, the raymarine guys I was connected with were really
helpful, but the situation is what it is. Also for the record, I have zero
brand loyalty/axe to grind for/with anyone.

Had I known then what I know now, I'd have (dispassionately) chosen another
brand.(s)    I do think it is something important to consider when
weighting options today.

Dave



PDate: Tue, 20 Sep 2016 12:58:42 + (UTC)
From: Pete Shelquist 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com,  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
        autopilot business!
Message-ID:
        

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

You raymarine guys kill me. ?Defend it to the end and drag others down when
it's obvious that Ray falls short. I've been saying it for years: friends
don't let friends buy raymarine.?
Dave/others; Per Garmin FAQ, Here's the solution if/when you decide to
leave the raymarine dark side :
"The easiest way to update the device is to purchase a NMEA 2000 Network
Updater and attach it to the NMEA 2000 network that the device is connected
to. The updater will add an SD card slot to the NMEA 2000 network which
will allow and update to be sent to the device. A blank SD card with at
least 300MB up to 2GB of space is also required.
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2016 10:28:06 -0400
From: Dreuge 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
    autopilot business
Message-ID: <4dc89991-cb22-4e73-9d8

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I bought Pegathy in Ft. Lauderdale and sailed her up to Baltimore. Last year, 
sailed to Nantucket and back. Coasting is fun and pretty easy. Best to have 4 
or more crew when you overnight offshore, even coasting. Active Captain is a 
great app, best if you're computer or tablet has a GIS reciever.  Pick your 
weather when you're coasting, BECAUSE YOU CAN! Read the book Storm Tactics. 
Make allowance for gear failure. Carry extra fuel and water. 

Fair winds and following seas to you.
Dan Sheer, 
Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I have a standup unit with a single hose, 8K BTU, on Pegathy. Vented to the 
small hatch over the galley. Strapped with clips to the aft end of the port 
salon bench for travel. Will not cool the interior when the day is hot and the 
sun is out, but it is still refreshing to sit in front of the cold air exhaust 
even under those conditions. Cools the boat, and dehumidifies, at night, even 
hot nights are comfortable below. Had to install a 15 amp breaker to use the 
built in outlets. I lead the drain tube to the bilge. 10% of the price of a 
built in, water cooled unit. Do it again in a heartbeat, but I'd get the next 
larger size unit.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Love to give you a hull number, but don't know how to read it. The HIN is 
CCY38072M80J. I presume from that the the hull number is 72, but I'm not sure. 
Please decipher and let me know.

Other info:

Year 1980

Owner Dan Sheer

Boat Name Pegathy

Built at Rhode Island

Present Location Rock Creek, Pasadena, Md.
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Stus-List New sails for my 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I've been very pleased with the sails I got from Chesapeake Sailmakers (Chuck 
O'Malley) in Annapolis. Super service, and the roller furling 145 sails very 
well when furled to 110 as conditions dictate. On the Landfall 38, sailing jib 
only is a good option in heavy weather. The sails have held up very well, 
despite some long voyages in ~30 knt winds.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut 
kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer" 
getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a 
half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on our way again. Had 
holes in the shaft for the set screws. All on tight. Still came out. I put stop 
nuts on the set screws, and, since the key was moving as well, two hose clamps 
to hold the key in place. Also replaced the lock washers on the coupling bolts. 
We'll see. I'm checking it before each sail.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List hottest trip ever

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

August '75 - or was it '76. Newly married. Wife and I on a Hinterhoeller Shark 
- 24' no standing headroom. Mill Creek off Whitehall Bay (just north of 
Annapolis) South down to St Margarets River (off the Potomac), across to Smith 
Island, up to Oxford, then St. Michaels then home. No wind, almost all motoring 
with the 9hp outboard. Double 90's all week. Sun so hot we had to wear 
sweatshirts from 10 - 3:30 to avoid sunburn. No money, so we stayed on the boat 
every night. Lots of nettles so no swimming. 

And we're still married!
Oh, did I mention the mosquitoes that carried the dog away? Or the eel that got 
loose and slimed up the cabin? Or running aground in muck that held like 
quicksand? Good, cause none of that happened... On that trip. 

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38 
Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just replaced the furler line on Pegathy. 145% Genoa on an LF38 80' of 3/8 
double braid. Works well, 10' tail when unfurled, figure 8 to hold the line on 
the drum. A bit more than a half foot of stretch under load when reefed, I 
figure. That's less than a half turn of the drum. I figure that if it's blowin' 
that hard, the boats close to hull speed, and I ain't gonna worry about it. 

Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy is still using an AutoHelm 3000. It's a wheel pilot on a 38' boat. It 
shouldn't work, but it does. Keeps a bearing, and tacks as advertised. Even in 
heavy wind, though I have to use the wheel break to help stabilize the wheel - 
there's not enough motor resistance in heavy wind to keep the wheel from 
turning. It's worked offshore in heavy wind up and down the east coast. 'Course 
most of my sailing is on the Chesapeake - much easier on an autopilot. The 
belts do break, so keep spares.
A new autohelm has been on the buy list since I got the boat 5 years ago, but 
there are other things, too - like sails. Maybe next year. Meanwhile, I've been 
happy with it, and it keeps on chugging.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 8:57 AM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 73
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Roller Furling Line (Marek Dziedzic)
  2.  Autopilot (Paul H.) (Paul Hood)
  3. Re:  Autopilot (Paul H.) (G Collins)
  4. Re:  Autopilot (Paul H.) (Josh Muckley)
  5.  Throttle and shift levers (Bradley Lumgair)
  6. Re:  Throttle and shift levers (Tim Sippel)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 12:03:28 -0400
From: Marek Dziedzic 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If you want to be really picky, there is a direct correlation. Not necessarily 
1:1, but it is obviously, there.

 

I went with a standard double braid, but we have much less choice locally. A 
lower stretch line would be probably better, but I never noticed the stretching 
that someone mentioned a few messages before. This may depend also on the size 
of the boat and the size of the genoa - mine are only 27? and 135%.

 

With this kind of line I bought double the length of the boat plus some safety 
margin. I think I bought 70?, but at $0.5/ft. the extra 10 ft. did not matter. 
That $5 was a good insurance and what I cut off the end will be used, for sure, 
somewhere else.

 

Marek

1994 C270, ?Legato?

Ottawa, ON

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 09:15
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

 

Jonathan, 

You are correct there isn't a direct correlation between furling line length 
and foot length.  As I previously stated mine happens to be roughly 1:1 
averaged over the entire furl.  I am simply visually approximating the diameter 
of a full drum compared to a full sail roll.  You're right the circumference of 
the roll during the first few wraps is much smaller than when the entire sail 
is rolled up.  Yet the diameter of the drum stays nearly the same.  I'll have 
to measure the actual length of line needed to furl next time I think about it. 
 It will be interesting to see exactly what the ratio is.

Josh

On Jun 12, 2016 7:49 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different.

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> plus the foot length (24')


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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 21:06:22 -0400
From: "Paul Hood" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot (Paul H.)
Message-ID: <012501d1c50f$cdb9eb30$692dc190$@rogers.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

I have an old Autohelm 5000 autopilot...yes it appears to be original.
Boats obviously relatively new for me and although an autopilot is on the
wish list, its not here yet.  If this thing doesn't work or isn't worth even
trying, then I'll

Stus-List Gear, shaft positin, transmission, folding

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I like my MaxProp 2 blade. Instant bite in reverse, better than a fixed prop. 
Feathers easily. Leave the gear in reverse. Maybe a little more drag than 
folding, but it works well. Also, it's adjustable, and I've been able to 
maximize my engine performance over the years (got to be out of the water to 
adjust the pitch). Dem's my 2 cents.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Oak Harbor Marina in Pasadena Md. is both closer and likely less expensive. I 
know lots of people who have used it. They specialize in restoration.
Dan
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Stus-List eagled

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Consider yourself lucky. You, at least, got done in by a Bald Eagle. My Garmin 
wind indicator was trashed by a plain ol' osprey in Megansett Harbor. Lucky for 
me that he dropped the vane on the deck, and that it didn't splash. And that 
was "click-on." Still, it cost me a hundred bucks to get a yard with a crane to 
click it back on. Guy said it was the easiest masthead work he'd ever done. 
Didn't have to buy any parts. Been working fine since. Check to see if yours is 
just jammed. Maybe you can fix it with percussive maintenance.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 07:27:54 -0700
From: Tom Buscaglia 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Eagled
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii

The great Bald Eagle is a majestic bird and it's wonderful that we have them 
where we live.  Until they land on your masthead.

It appears that one trashed the sensor head for my Raymarine ST60 wind 
instruments.  Speed seems fine but the wind direction arrow thing is done.

Anyone know if the sensor head is modular or can be repaired or are they a one 
piece "disposable" part.

BTW, Alera means eagle in Latin.  Ya think they cut us some slack...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200




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Stus-List Stuffing Box and shaft saver couplings and vibration.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I just made the decision to replace the stuffing in my existing box (original) 
rather than to get a dripless box. The surveyor I used when I bought the boat 
told me not to use a dripless box due to vibration in my shaft. I have an 18" 2 
blade MaxProp, rebuilt last year, with a new cutlass bearing and shaft 
alignment. Still more vibration than I wanted.
Thought about getting a flexible coupling for the shaft to help with the 
vibration. Had the bottom soda blasted instead; that ate up this year's 
discretionary funds. I did have the shaft key recut to allow the prop to ride 
closer to the strut. that will also put new shaft material in the cutlass 
bearing and the stuffing box. The shaft is a few thousandths of a millimeter 
out of straight. I hope that's not the problem.
Pegathy goes back in next week. We'll see.
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Jib Sheet Line size.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the responses. I've just bought a bunch of 9/16 line for 
halyards (current size) from Valley Rope for just over 50 cents a foot. I could 
convert one to make sheets. I'll probably use soft shackles to attach it. I'm 
absolutely sure it will be fine for any weather I would want to be out in. I'm 
less sure of how it would do in a big blow.

I believe I had 9/16 sheets on my Pearson 30 when I bought it back in 1977. It 
was double braid, and I believe polyester. But that was a much smaller sail, 
even though it was a 150%. 
Also, having experience now, I'm not sure that 9/16 isn't easier to handle 
overall than is 5/8. 5/8 is heavy and stiff. And also the max limit of my self 
tailers. Maybe even one size too large.
Thanks again, 

Dan SheerPegathy = Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 8:31 AM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 143
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1.  boarding ladder (Della Barba, Joe)
  2.  Removing Traveler Track C&C 29-1 (Sophia Weber)
  3. Re:  Stuffing box options on LF38 (Marek Dziedzic (hotmail))
  4. Re:  Stuffing box options on LF38 (Della Barba, Joe)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:57:45 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Subject: Stus-List boarding ladder
Message-ID:
    <4971e55edfb5424594407ff674029...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-STEPS-STAINLESS-STEEL-BOARDING-STERN-TRANSOM-MOUNT-BOAT-LADDER-FIVE-OCEANS-/281812641478?hash=item419d57a6c6:g:9GEAAOSwsB9WCfcn&vxp=mtr

Does anyone know how these work? Does the bottom freely hinge back and forth or 
can it only fold down until it is in a straight line?
Joe
Coquina

PS ? I think I hosed about 10 pounds of pollen off the boat yesterday. The 
trees are going full blast here!
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:01:02 -0400
From: Sophia Weber 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Stus-List Removing Traveler Track C&C 29-1
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi all,

I've removed the original traveler track on my 78 C&C 29 MK1.

Removing it is pretty simple in theory, except for a piece of wood trim
that is in the way. After removing the plastic cover from underneath, there
is a piece of wood attached to the wall blocking 9 of the 12 bolts, making
it very difficult to undo the nuts. Thanks to small hands and a tonne of
patience, I was able to remove them, but putting the next one on will be
challenging again.

Has anyone removed this piece of trim? Does it have  function? Is it
holding anything behind it? And how does one remove it without force? It
looks like there are four screw holes on the side of it (horizontal), but
because of the plastic mould around it, I can't reach those either and
can't even look to see what kind of screw it would be

Any insights would be appreciated,

Sophia

"Persistence"
1978 C&C 29-1
Toronto, ON
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 08:25:28 -0400
From: "Marek Dziedzic \(hotmail\)" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box options on LF38
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Patrick,

I also have a PIY PSS shaft seal and I am happy with it. I installed it 3 years 
ago and, of course, it is like new. There is not a single drop of water coming 
through it. So if you like your bilge dry, this is, certainly, a way.

It seems that people who have it, love it; most critical comments comes from 
people who don?t have it.

I don?t regret replacing the traditional packing gland with the PSS. However, 
there is another way ? you can use some Gore-Tex stuffing and have not-dripping 
stuffing box, as well. Since yours is seized, you need to replace it anyway. 
That route might be simpler. Not to mention that your future maintenance could 
be done on the water and without removing the shaft.

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 ?Legato?
Ottawa, ON

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 04:52

Stus-List Jib sheet size

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfall 38. It's overkill. Killing a 
flea with a shotgun, almost. Question - will 9/16 do, or do I need 1/2? And how 
long?
Thanks,
Dan SheerPegathy - Landfall 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List Water Ingress

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

On my trip to New England, Pegathy was taking on a lot of water while underway. 
Turned out to be an open hose attached to a no longer used thru hull near the 
stern. The thru hull was above water line at rest, and below while underway. It 
dumped enough water in to put the floorboards under in a 38. Double yikes. 
Got'cha beat, Touche, but I don't want the trophy.  I would look near the stern 
for such a problem, perhaps a cracked cockpit drain hose (since the leak is 
relatively slow, or a bilge pump hose, if that thru hull is under water while 
motoring. I suspect it'll be an easy fix. Also, you might see if the lower 
rudder grudgeon has a leak. That might be under water while under way, too. 
Might be harder to fix.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Got a stack pack for an existing loose footed main from Chuck O'Malley at 
Chesapeake Sailmakers in Annapolis. Works wonderfully. Drop and zip. Cake to 
put on and take off. Can be rolled up at the boom for racing with little 
effort. Reasonable price. Chuck is great to work with. Highly recommended. Only 
additional requirement is plates on the mast to cover the gate and retain the 
slides. Made them out of 3/16 (or 1/4, don't remember) aluminum in an hour. 
Chuck would'a made them, but I chose to do it meself. Arrgh!

Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the 
Patapsco__
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2015 14:37:58 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?
Message-ID:
    <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f104...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Josh

The zippers and canvas that is built into the sail

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 10:16 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?


Mike,

I can't see anything that sets the stack pack apart from any other sail pack or 
any reason that the main would need modified.  I looked and looked at the Doyle 
website marketing (videos and text).  The only thing which seems to be "needed" 
is a loose footed mainsail.  Even that might not be mandatory.

What are you seeing that makes you think otherwise?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 10, 2015 8:55 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I was looking at the Doyle Stack Pack information on their web site.  It 
indicates that an existing sail can be converted to a stack pack sail.

Persistence came with lazy jacks (since removed but still available for 
reinstallation). Also have an older UK Tape Drive main as well as an almost new 
Quantum main.  This past season we used the older main for deliveries, everyday 
sailing and Wednesday racing and kept the new main for regattas etc ?  Had 
noted a friend with aFrers 33 has a Doyle Stack Pack for deliveries and casual 
sailing and it has good enough sail shape for limited racing as well.  Have 
been considering a stack pack main at some time for cruising.

Has anyone here converted an existing sail to a stack pack?  Any thoughts on 
feasibility of converting an older UK Tape Drive to stack pack?  Any ideas on 
cost and if at the end of life for that sail the stack pack components can be 
used on another sail?

I know that the previous season we found the lazy jacks a pain that were always 
in the way and that last season with just two of us flaking the main was a 
major PITA esp when entering a narrow channel or looking to anchor.

Thoughts?

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS

Formerly
Nut Case 1987 J27
Full Tilt 2 1979 Hinterhoeller Niagara 26
Monkey Bear 1974 Paceship P23
Full Tilt 1970s McVay Minuette
Blue Horizon No. 1 1981 C&C 36 (family boat)
High Hopes 1979 Spirit 28 (family boat)


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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38 (Frederick G Street)

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
$100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.
Dan
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Stus-List Subject: Re: little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Fred,If you do have the replacement lens, I'd be interested in a pair. Mine are 
pretty crazed. 

Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Bob,
For what it's worth, I have 5 group 31 batteries in my LF 38, one in the 
forward end of the starboard lazarette (starting battery), two under the nav 
seat (house bank 1) with the Electroscan, and two under the port quarterberth 
(house bank 2). There are two big red bank switches, one separates the two 
house banks, and on separates both of the house banks from the starter. The 
alternator and the solar panel both charge house bank 1, and there's a diode 
equivalent of an echo charger that allows the starting battery to charge even 
when it is isolated from the house banks. I recently put in a 12 gallon holding 
tank, but it is in what used to be storage just forward of the head - I don't 
have a shower. This works well. First, I find the electroscan very useful in 
the Bay, pump outs are rare, the waste is disinfected, and it's legal, at least 
for now. Far as I can tell, weight distribution is not an issue. The boat is 
quite competitive in my club as long as the bottom's clean, even though I have 
only cruising (heavy dacron) sails of less than max size. 

Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat (Robert Boyer)

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Nope, he meant 5 pounders. Got the same tanks on Pegathy. They're what fits.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 12:00 PM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 118, Issue 12
   
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Cabin Heat (Robert Boyer)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2015 11:57:57 -0500
From: Robert Boyer 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Fred, you mean two 10-lb propane tanks, right?

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Nov 5, 2015, at 11:35 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve ? I?ve got a Dickinson P12000 on my LF38, and love it.  However, I?ve 
> got a propane locker with two five-pound tanks in it; I teed off from the 
> feed to the galley range (after the solenoid, inside the locker) and ran a 
> separate propane line to the heater.
> 
> In your case, you would have to have some sort of external propane locker 
> which is sealed, vented overboard and has a solenoid to control the gas.  
> Also, you?ll need a regulator to reduce the pressure of the gas in the tank 
> to levels that the Dickinson could use (about 3-4 psi, if I recall correctly; 
> and you?d need to do this regardless of whether you were using a large tank 
> or the 1-pound disposables).  Something like this, but you?d need to find a 
> place to put it: 
> http://www.go2marine.com/product/211547F/trident-propane-locker-fully-rigged-lpg-system.html
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI  :^(
> 
>> On Nov 5, 2015, at 9:57 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Not sure if this needs a separate thread but I've been looking at the 
>> Dickinson heaters, the Propane P9000. I don't have diesel on board and my 
>> early 32 doesn't have a propane locker. Seems you can run these things off 
>> of 1lb disposable tanks but if I'm reading it correctly, they must be 
>> located outside or in a propane locker (which I don't have). I suppose it's 
>> not safe to have the 1lb propane tank inside the boat eh? 
>> 
>> What have other non-propane boat owners done?
>> The hot water engine heat is nice when you're motoring now doubt, but we 
>> like to spend days at anchor and we're looking to extend our cruising into 
>> the fall next year. 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 118, Issue 12
*


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Stus-List Heaving-to - sail ratios for higher winds

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Patrick,
On Pegathy, also an LF38, I have never reefed the main. I have two reef points, 
but I take it down, or just don't put it up. The boat sails very well under jib 
alone, and I reef the roller furling jib in very high winds - sailed from 
Martha's Vineyard to Natucket very comfortably in 40 knots with jib alone 
reefed to 110%. That includes a very close reach into the inlet. I have hove to 
in Pegathy with a full genoa, but not in high winds.
My understanding is that when hove to, the boat should be going forward. This 
makes sense, since if you're moving aft with the rudder to windward, the boat 
will fall off, as you described. You must be going forward for the rudder to 
have the desired effect. If you had the main too tight, you may indeed have 
been moving aft. When hove to, the main needs to produce enough drive to 
overcome the windage of the jib and still move the boat forward. That also 
means there must be enough angle of attack for the keel to produce lift. At 
least, that's how I understand it. I suggest the Lin's book; "Storm Tactics" is 
the name, I think. Pretty thorough discussion of heaving to and other ways to 
stay below safely in storms.

BTW, I made my own slide gate out of 1/8 in. aluminum bar to make it easier to 
get the main into the stack pack.

Dan Sheer,  

Pegathy, LF38. Rock Creek off the Patapsco.
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Stus-List Electronics upgrade

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

So here's another 2 cents. 

My Garmin chartplotter has not yet lost a GPS signal. My smartphones (Androids 
all) do, when the clouds get real thick. Such is the value of the antenna. I 
was extremely thankful for the chartplotter going into Woods Hole in pea soup. 

That said, the charts on my phones are raster images of real charts and the 
charts on the Garmin are inferior, with level of detail dependent on zoom 
level. At least with the raster charts I can see a speck and know I should zoom 
in. The speck just ain't there on the Garmin. Such is the value of charts at 
the maximum level of detail, plus it's easy and cheap to keep 'em up to date. 
Also have the latest raster charts on a pc with a separate gps antenna, but 
it's down below. Much bigger screen, if I need it.

And then, when the charts are wrong, having them is worse than not having them, 
'cause you tend to trust them. This led to some Caribbean style (color of the 
water) navigation in high wind in Nantucket sound. Could'a used some local 
knowledge. My druthers is to have 'em both - plotter and raster charts on a 
smart device.
Speaking of local knowledge, I also have the Active Captain charts and database 
on the computer. Very helpful, and getting more so. What I don't have anymore, 
fool that I am, is paper charts. But that's another topic.
2 cents worth. Boy, words are cheap.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Stus-List Landfall Upgrades

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I have an old, old, AutoHelm 3000 mounted to Pegathy's wheel. I thought it 
would barely work when I bought the boat, and that I'd replace it very quickly. 
WRONG! It works amazingly well with one exception, large, confused following 
seas. Once I balance the boat the 3000 keeps a heading amazingly well. Long 
trips from Charleston to Beaufort NC and from Cape May to Block Island have 
proved its worth. I've gone through 4 belts in four years, though. And 
sometimes getting the right sensitivity setting is crucial.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List New Canvas

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Joel,

I like Rita at First Class Yacht Services in Pasadena, Md. Very reasonable, 
good workmanship, real sunbrella, she measures, and everything just fits. If 
you do enquire, tell her I sent you.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 114, Issue 59

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

The entire log runs about 5 times the length - too long. I selected the stuff I 
thought would be of interest to other sailors and the crew. It was a great 
trip, and I got to share it with lots of friends and some of their kids. Boats 
(and theater) tend to teach kids stuff like responsibility and non-sports 
teamwork. It's great to watch them get it. Can't wait to get my grandkids on 
the boat. Not a good idea to take 2.5 year olds that can't swim. Especially 
according to the Admiral.
Also, getting crew along the way worked well for me. Wasn't too much trouble 
(lots of planes trains and automobiles along the way) and the crew worked 
almost all of it out for themselves once they chose a leg. 'Tis wonderful to 
have a great time yourself while showing your friends a good time too.

Dan

  From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 12:00 PM
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 114, Issue 59
   
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Pegathy's New England Voyage (Richard N. Bush)
  2.  Black Lid For Pump Out (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
  3.  Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top (Daniel Sheer)
  4. Re:  Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top (Joel Aronson)
  5.  Starter (mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net)
  6. Re:  Starter (Edd Schillay)
  7. Re:  Starter (jhnelson)
  8. Re:  Starter (Edward Levert)
  9. Re:  Black Lid For Pump Out (mike amirault)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 09:29:29 -0400
From: "Richard N. Bush" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
Message-ID: <8d2975090736e39-68c-1d...@webmailstg-va04.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


 Dan, I thoroughly enjoyed reading your log, thank you for including it; I can 
only imagine all of the events which didn't make the log, its those little 
things that make a trip like this enjoyable!!

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners 
Cc: Daniel Sheer 
Sent: Mon, Jul 27, 2015 1:07 pm
Subject: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage



June 5 - 28 2015 in an LF38. Baltimore to Nantucket and back. Log and photos at
Pegathy_NE_Voyage




 


 




 

 

 

 

 



Pegathy_NE_Voyage
30_Sailin_in_the_downpour_LymetoNew_Haven.jpg 9:50 am 








View on drive.google.com

Preview by Yahoo







 



Best viewed on Google Drive. Enjoy. Questions answered on the forum.


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 09:47:40 -0400
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List  Black Lid For Pump Out
Message-ID: <201507281348.t6sdmgvb007...@d03av04.boulder.ibm.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Ron, if you can't find it locally It's on Amazon and probably a whole 
lot cheaper.  
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marine+waste+cap&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amarine+waste+cap
 
West has them too . 

BTW, I have found many really good deals on Amazon for several other 
things like this led light to replace my burned-out weather beaten stern 
light 
http://www.amazon.com/MARINE-WHITE-NAVIGATION-WATERPROOF-NAUTICAL/dp/B00I0BPZ1U/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1438091021&sr=1-7


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron 
Ander
via CnC-List
Sent: July-28-15 09:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Stus-List Black Lid For Pump Out

 

My cover for the pump out (black coloured) lid has gone a.w.o.l. I have 
been
having no success finding a replacement in Toronto. The fresh water and 
fuel
lids are th

Stus-List Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Joel,
I like Rita at First Class Yacht Services in Pasadena, Md. Very reasonable, 
good workmanship, real sunbrella, she measures, and everything just fits. If 
you do enquire, tell her I sent you.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

June 5 - 28 2015 in an LF38. Baltimore to Nantucket and back. Log and photos 
atPegathy_NE_Voyage

|   |
|   |  |   |   |   |   |   |
| Pegathy_NE_Voyage30_Sailin_in_the_downpour_LymetoNew_Haven.jpg 9:50 am  |
|  |
| View on drive.google.com | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |

Best viewed on Google Drive. Enjoy. Questions answered on the forum.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List hypalon glue

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

So, I bought the $50. NRS hypalon glue and accelerator. I used it to attach D 
ring pads to my hypalon inflatable. The D rings attached to the davit lines - 
one port and one starboard near the bow. Didn't hold. Don't want to spend 
another $50 on glue - that's 1/8 the price of the entire dink. Thinkin' about 
trying weldwood contact cement. Toluol based, supposed to adhere to neoprene 
and rubber. Will it work?
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List Boat Time and Weather

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy spent most of the month of June on a cruise from Baltimore to Nantucket 
and back. Lots of sailing and lots of good shore time as well. Highlights 
include:
The outside trip from Cape May to Block Island, wind almost 30 knts on the beam 
the whole way and phosphorescent jellies at night. Seas 6-8.
Caribbean style navigation in 35knts (avoiding shoals by water color) on the 
trip from Martha's Vineyard to Nantucket (charts showed 20 feet, actual depth 
3-7 feet, boat draws 5, interesting), 

Nantucket, a wonderful island
An osprey attacking my wind vane. The bird was considerate, though. He dropped 
it on the deck, not in the water, and didn't break it.
Entering Woods Hole in dense fog, using my conch shell as a foghorn. Thank the 
Lord for chartplotters.
The Mystic Seaport Museum
Sailing into Newport for the first time, and helming the 12 meter Intrepid.
Sailing under the bridges on my youth, Throgs Neck, Whitestone, Triboro, 59th 
St. (Queensboro), Williamsburg, Manhattan, Brooklyn - all for the first time.
A $30 mooring 3 blocks from Broadway (79th St. Boat Basin)
Watching the World Trade Center disappear behind a thundersquall while less 
than 2 miles away.
Sailing past the Statue of Liberty at sunset (wonderful pics) 

A sleighride from the Verrazzano Bridge to Sandy Hook (40 knot winds).
Sailing among the dolphins off the NJ coast.
Loosing the alternator/water pump belt in the C&D canal, towing the 38 footer 
with the 8.5 foot, 2hp dink while installing the spares, all in front of the 
Admiral who was waiting to have dinner with us at Shaeffers in Chesapeake City.
A wild finale sailing down the Chesapeake in a 4 foot chop and 30 knot winds.
I'm putting together a site with the log, pictures and video. I'll post a link 
when it's done.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco.
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Stus-List Force 10 stove parts

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Fred,
Thanks for the response. I wrote the post after I talked to Force 10. They told 
me they had NO parts, particularly not burners or thermocouples, for anything 
made prior to 2000. Good to know, but not good in my current situation. I need 
a couple of burner caps and thermocouples. Else, the stove is in great shape.
Dan Sheer   
Pegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Force 10 stove parts

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Anyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 10 
3 burner stove/oven?
Thanks.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I'm taking Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back, leaving June 5. Itinerary 
is Baltimore, Cape May, Block Island, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, 
Provincetown, Bowston, Woods Hole, Mystic, New Haven, New York City, Lower 
Jersey Shore, Ocean City Md, and then back to Baltimore. Got 4 weeks to do it, 
and crew joining and leaving at various places along the way. Any 
recommendations as to anchorages, marinas, where I need reservations, things to 
do, places to go, people to see, are very welcome. Also welcome - things not to 
do, places not to go, people not to see, etc.
Thanks
Dan SheerPegathyLF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Rock Hall Approach

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy takes 5'. I have run across the bar using the line formed by the 
Brewerton Channel East range lights several times in the last few years, and, 
per the charts, have never had less than 1.5 feet under the keel. I'd do it 
again anytime except low tide or in strong winds. Even going slowly the 
shortcut has saved me much time coming from the Patapsco. This is, of course, 
no guarantee you'll make it. I have been keeping just south of the range line. 
The lights are easy to line up. If you have any doubts after looking at the 
charts, go the long way. And, if you do choose to cross the bar, do it under 
power and do it slowly. 
That's my experience, not a recommendation.
Dan SheerPegathyLF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Holding Tank for LF 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just so happens I'm installing a tank on my LF38 as this is being written. 
Pegathy doesn't have a shower, and does have a nav station. The ElectroScan is 
under the nav station seat. I'm putting the tank in the locker under the 
drawers on the starboard side just forward of the head. I got a 15 gallon, 
11x15x25 tank on the net for $109. It's a Todd tank from PlasticMart.com, I 
think. The door frame needs a wee bit of sanding to get it in, but it's as big 
as will fit. I'm plumbing it so that it can be sucked out at the deck or be put 
through the ElectroScan. Takes a couple of extra Y valves. I need it 'cause I'm 
cruising to New England where it's all no discharge. The ElectroScan is legal 
almost everywhere on the Chesapeake.
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Just looked - Pegathy's mast is in the middle of the step, spacers on both 
sides. She's got a bit of lee helm in very light air. Goes away quickly as the 
wind comes up. 

Seems to me that more rake increases weather helm when the forestay is slacked, 
backstay tightened, and the mast step doesn't move - the normal way to add 
rake. Seems to me that if you keep the masthead in the same place and move the 
step forward, the sail area and center of effort would have to move forward. 
Euclidean geometry. That should decrease weather helm. 'Course if you move the 
step forward and the head aft, anything can happen. I usually fall down when 
that happens.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy's PO or predecessor did a fuel tank replacement. They sawed a piece out 
of the starboard lazarette side to get it in and then did a good, but visible, 
patch job. It clearly was not easy. If I had to do it, I would indeed try to 
use a bladder inside the remains of the old tank. The old tank top would, I 
think, protect the bladder from possible abrasion by the steering cables. If 
it's the top of the old tank that's corroded, I'd have to think again. I might 
try to lay a sheet of aluminum over what's left and still use a bladder. 

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List bottom paint

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I used Micron CF last year. I'm on the Patapsco so the salinity ranges from 
10-20 ppt. I had some leftover Micron CSC, so I put that on the keel and rudder 
and CF on the rest of the bottom. Couldn't tell the difference in terms of 
performance. CF isn't copper, so I'll put it on the prop shaft this year. 
Painted that with zinc last year and it turned into a barnacle farm. I used the 
Petit stuff for my knotmeter last year. Did not work at all.. Gonna try really 
thick grease this year - on the prop, too. It became a barnacle farm last year 
as well. Couldn't make but 4 knots 'cause the prop was so fouled. 

Slime is always an issue around me -  all boats.get slimy. Wiped it off twice 
last season, once by myself, once by paying a diver. Diver said it was not bad. 
Very few barnacles attached to the hull, except for the prop, shaft, and 
knotmeter.  I think the CF actually worked better than the CSC for barnacles.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Stus-List New Instruments

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

When I bought Pegathy, I got a Garmin 421s chartplotter. It was small enough to 
be unobtrusive and had as many (maybe more) pixels than the larger screens. It 
will display any combination of up to 4 (I think) instruments on the NMEA 2000 
bus on a ribbon on the chart screen. The next year, I bought a gmi10 package 
with a masthead anemometer, temperature and pressure sensor and a depth  and 
water temp sensor. The gmi 10 will display up to 4 instruments at once in user 
defined formats with user defined alarm limits for each. It also allows you to 
create a bunch of custom combinations which can be stored and accessed with the 
push of a button, or maybe a few pushes if you define a bunch of screens. There 
are other good features as well. 

Replaced four instrument heads with one. Works for me, except that I had to 
cover the holes. It's backed up by the chart plotter, so I'm more comfortable 
with having a single head. Just bought a Lowrance NMEA 2000 VHF/AIS receiver 
which is supposed to communicate with the chartplotter. Haven't tried it yet. 
Still waiting for warm enough weather to pain the bottom.

Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List lf38 hatch seals

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Here's the stuff. Seems the galley and head hatches are A&H. I also need a 
spring, but need to go to the boat to measure the spring and the seal. If 
you're somewhere you can get the measurements for the galley hatch seal and the 
spring, and get the part# for the hatch this weekend, please send the 
measurements/# on.
Also, since I can't find the reference email (now there's and argument for a 
forum rather than a list), here's the site for the seal - 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#foam-cords/=whac6k, and here's the A&H site.Parts 
Department | Atkins & Hoyle | Boat & Marine Dinghy Davits, Hardtops and Arches

|   |
|   |  |   |   |   |   |   |
| Parts Department | Atkins & Hoyle | Boat & Marine Din...Atkins & Hoyle is 
known for manufacturing well engineered, attractive and exceptionally durable 
cast hatches and ports for the past 30 years. |
|  |
| View on atkinshoyle.com | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |

   
Thanks,
Dan

Message: 1Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2015 09:43:11 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" 
To: "'Patrick Davin'" ,    
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?
Message-ID: <002c01d067ca$cda56e10$68f04a30$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I resealed my A&H hatches with a ?? diameter neoprene foam ?rod? called breaker 
bead by a friend in the glass business. It is used to seal around commercial 
windows and is pretty inexpensive. I think you can find it at Lowes and Home 
Depot, but mine came from a glass shop. I scraped the old foam seals out of the 
channels where they are mounted and wire brushed the aluminum frames, then 
applied 3M automotive trim adhesive and spread it in the channel and pressed 
the rubber into place.

 

Cut the rod square with a razor blade, start at middle of the lower side of the 
hatch, make sure you don?t stretch the rod as you press it in place, cut the 
finished end to length with a razor blade when you get there and can be sure to 
get a tight match with the point where you started.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 9:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hatch gasket material for A&H small hatches?

 

I know this question came up in 2006 
(http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html ), 
but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then. 

 

I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head hatches 
(LF38) come first. 


The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle (for 
the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean Seal 
though. Are those two still the best options?  

 

Here's are some pics of the galley hatch: 

http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181

http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179

http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180

 

The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just doesn't 
seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right spots we get 
leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape for the hatch? 

 

Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded 
format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?

 

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165 
 
&id=1230878

 

-Patrick

1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
Seattle, WA

 

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Stus-List LF38 hatch seals

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Whad'da great list. I'm sittin' here tryin' to figure out how to fix my galley 
hatch seal, don't even know what kind it is. Somebody else asks the same 
question and yet another guy gives the answer. Youse guys must be telepathetic.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Any C&C Lister in Maine?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Good thing that the only productive things I did yesterday were moving boxes of 
books and scraping Pegathy's bottom. My PHRF is about 135, not whatever I said 
yesterday. A 153 rating would make me a BIG winner down here, Dwight. Except 
for the races where I made really stupid mistakes, I'd have won them all.
Dan
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Stus-List Subject: Re: Any C&C Lister in Maine?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Damien,
I'm sailing my LF38 from Baltimore to Boston  and back this June, if you want a 
look. Wonderful boat, stable, dry, and reasonably fast (PHRA 230) better off 
the wind than on due to shoal draft, but still reasonably good on the wind. The 
aft cabin arrangement is terrific for short handed overnight sailing.
I can tell you when I'm in Boston if you want to see just how messy an LF 38 
can get mid-cruise. Email direct if you want more info on the boat.

Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Jacklines on an LF 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Again, thanks for the advice. I believe I'll be leading the jackines from the 
base of the aft bow pulpit stanchions, inside the shrouds, to a pad eye about 
4' from the stern. Probably put a couple of pad eyes in the cockpit, too.
Dan SheerPegathy LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
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Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at the 
cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.
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Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with 
a life raft and/or a real epirb?
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38 
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Cabin sole replacement

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Speakin' of which. Pegathy's cabin sole is original, I think, glass enclosed 
ply with holly/teak veneer and varnish. The veneer is separating from the ply, 
but the ply is in good shape, I think. I was thinking about using some kind of 
artificial teak/holly "stuff" and gluing it on top of the ply, after removing 
any loose veneer. Any suggestions as to if this is a good idea? And, if it is, 
what kind of "stuff" should I use. I'm hoping to do it over the winter.
Dan SheerPegathy C&C LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Subject: Masthead sheaves replacement

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I had trouble raising the main on Pegathy when I bought her. Bunch of silicon 
lube on the slides and lower slot and - viola - up she went, no problem. 
Cheapest fix ever.
Dan SheerPegathy C&C LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Subject: Re: LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy has an HM35F, which is supposed to rate 35 hp. It was installed in the 
mid 90's and has about 2700 hrs. Still runs very well - started right up in 
freezing weather when I had her hauled two weeks ago. She's configured with the 
OEM nav station starboard. There's access in the front, after removing the 
panels, one of which has four built in drawers which need to be removed first. 
There's an ~9"x18" door on the port side well into the q-berth, and starboard 
access from the lazarette in the cockpit. Once you empty the lazarette, panels 
come out and it's wide open - provided you've wedged your body (or hang your 
torso) in the lazarette - which does have a flat floor board to crouch on. I 
and even I, circumferentially challenged, old and inflexible as I am, can get 
in, but it ain't pretty.

There's an access port cut in the bottom of Pegathy's cockpit above the oil 
filler cap. That makes things easier, else you need a hose on the funnel to add 
oil or coolant. Checking the oil requires emptying all the crap from the 
q-berth, removing the cushions to get the door off, putting on a head lamp, and 
crawling in. The oil check is on the right (that is the port) side of the 
engine because the v-drive requires they put the engine in backwards. Changing 
belts, water pumps, or alternator at the stern end of the engine, which is 
actually the front, is done from the lazarette or the q-berth, depending on 
which belt or whatever. It's doable, just a pain relative to having them at the 
companionway.  The v-drive is on the forward end (back) of the engine, so 
aligning the shaft and checking the transmission oil are easier.
So the answer is .. you actually can get to everything you need, even 
change belts in a seaway, but it's usually twice the work or more. That said, 
how often do you change belts? Answer: 4 raw water pump belts and 1 alternator 
belt on the trip from Ft. Lauderdale, where I bought her, to Baltimore. Not one 
more in three seasons since the pulleys were smoothed, but with way less total 
hours than the Florida trip. We'll see when I take her to New England next 
spring.
I didn't and wouldn't let the access issue stop me from buying the boat. She 
sails like a dream, and is shoal draft (~5') for the Chesapeake, very 
comfortable, very stable, and quite dry. And I like a boat with less freeboard 
that keeps me closer to the water. I like to pet the dolphins (yup, did that).

Dan SheerPegathy - C&C LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List GPS Mount

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

My Garmin 4" is mounted on my pedestal. Wouldn't have it anywhere else - I can 
set a course and monitor it while helming. It stays mounted under my pedestal 
cover, under my bimini when I'm gone.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy - 1980 Landfall 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Shallows and deep draft (Joel Aronson)

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Pegathy lives on Rock Creek off the Patapsco, and the docks will easily handle 
6' almost all the time, and 7' just a shade less often. But my wife Peggy and I 
sailed a Pearson 30 (5') for over 20 years. We went aground often enough that 
anything more then 5' was a negative when looking for a new boat. Thus, we now 
have an LF 38. Happy with it, too.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy, LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Electro Scan

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

The LCD display on my 12v Electro Scan doesn't work anymore. The system 
functions, just can't read the error or status messages. Anybody got a used one 
that's working and for sale?

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Insurance on a LF38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I have no other insurance with Geico. I believe I initiated the deal on the net 
through the Geico site. And it's actually Seaworthy insurance (a Berkshire 
Hathaway Company) through the Geico brokerage. I've had no claims, but they've 
been very responsive to requests.


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2014 18:48:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Insurance on a LF38
Message-ID:
    <1398908914.78204.yahoomail...@web126201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Got
 my 1980 LF38 insured through Geico. Seaworthy is the actual insurance 
company. I thought it was a very reasonable rate for the policy after 
shopping around.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2014 21:59:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: via CnC-List 
To: dansh...@yahoo.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance on a LF38
Message-ID: <8d132f82c027897-1bf4-5...@webmail-va029.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Geico will not insure your boat unless you have other insurance with them.


John McLaughlin
C&C29-2
"Falcon"___
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Stus-List Insurance on a LF38

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Got my 1980 LF38 insured through Geico. Seaworthy is the actual insurance 
company. I thought it was a very reasonable rate for the policy after shopping 
around.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List What to lead aft

[Daniel Sheer]

Gary,
Thanks for the perspective. 


I figure I'll race spin with a crew of five (6 if I'm lucky) and cruise with a 
crew of 2. For racing, one guy on the foredeck and 4/5  in the cockpit. The 
cockpit is large enough for 5 easily, I think. It's a T, and one guy's behind 
the wheel.


Since the the Jenny is roller furling, I don't expect that the halyard will be 
adjusted much, and that can be handled by the foredeck man, who will also be 
responsible for managing the spin and staysail, including spin jibes and the 
mast end of the pole, and for helping tack the jenny. The spare jenny and spin 
halyards are basically never used (my furler is single slot). Having the main 
halyard and vang back at the cockpit is essential for 2 person cruising or 
singlehanding (I do that sometimes).

I'm thinking that the pole topping lift/staysail halyard will be used while the 
foredeckman is otherwise occupied. Is that true? I think it's good to have the 
stormsail halyard (the same line as the topping lift) aft on principle.

Does that make sense?

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2014 17:46:59 -0400
From: "Gary Nylander" 
To: "Daniel Sheer" ,    
Subject: Re: Stus-List What to lead aft
Message-ID: <481BA950DEFF42ED836D10E966EC30C9@GaryPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Dan, some questions to ask as you are deciding are you setting this up to 
race? how many crew? where will they be?

I
 made a bit of a mistake in bring all my lines except the outhaul and 
reef back to the cockpit (don't have quite as many as you as it's only a
 30). Now, I have too many people and lines and elbows in the cockpit - 
and on a 30, that's too much weight in the back.

I have the spin 
halyard, two genoa halyards and the vang on the port side of the cabin 
top and the pole topping lift, main halyard and pole downhaul on the 
starboard. The traveler and main sheet are on the bridgedeck right aft 
of the companionway. That is about three or four people in the space for
 two. Then add the trimmers and driver and you get real busy.

A 
41 foot boat I've raced on left the halyards, the outhaul, reefing and 
cunningham on the mast and boom - that way some weight is forward and 
less elbows in the cockpit.

Look at it that way and you may answer your own question.

If you are cruising and just want to be able to handle the chute - and have 
less crew - different story.

Gary
St. Michaels MD


  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Sheer 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 5:30 PM
  Subject: Stus-List What to lead aft


 
 Since I'm now setting up to fly a chute, I have to decide what lines to
 bring aft and which to cleat off at the mast base. And I'm confused. 
Actually I'm a citizen of that state.


  This is what I'm thinking. Advice solicited.



 
 The 2 reefing lines and the outhaul go to a Barient 10 winch on the 
boom with both a clam cleat ahead of the winch (outhaul) and a horn 
cleat behind (reefers). I don't intend to change that, at least not 
immediately. Be nice to have them aft, the reefers at least. Maybe 
someday.



  The mainsheet, traveller lines, foreguy 
(starbord) and Genoa roller furler line (port) must come aft. There's a 
self tailing Bar 23 on the cabin top center at the cockpit for the main 
sheet (companionway is offset to starboard on the LF38) and clam cleats 
for the foreguy (on the starboard cabin side at the cockpit), roller 
furler (on the outside of the port coaming - goes to the primary sheet 
winch, a Bar 28) and traveller lines (cabin top, aft of the outboard 
ends of the traveller).


  Secondary sheet winches (Bar 22) 
are forward of the primaries and will be used for the staysail sheets 
and the spin sheet. The spin guy will go to the primary, I think. 
Staysail and spin sheets go through 4 separate snatch blocks.



 
 There are 4 cabin top winches (1 Bar 10s and 3 18s with individual 
cleats near the mast, and one Bar 10 on the mast with a cleat.


 
 I have 4 rope clutches sharing one secondary cabin top winch (Barient 
22) to port at the cockpit. There's a single horn cleat between the 
mainsheet winch and the 22 that is usually used to back up the clutch 
for the main halyard. The candidate lines to bring aft to the rope 
clutches are, in my order of preference:



  1) Main halyard

  2) Vang
  3) Spin pole topping lift/staysail/storm jib halyard (3/4 height on the mast, 
and there is a narrow reaching staysail)

  4) Primary Spinnaker halyard


  This leaves:


  5) Primary Genoa halyard
  6) Secondary Genoa halyard
  7) Secondary Spinnaker halyard
  For the cabin top 18's near the mast and finally,



  8) Spin pole slide uphaul
  8) Spin pole slide downhaul 
  For the mast and cabin top 10s, respectively.


  This is not the current arrangement. Does what I pro

Stus-List What to lead aft

[Daniel Sheer]

Since I'm now setting up to fly a chute, I have to decide what lines to bring 
aft and which to cleat off at the mast base. And I'm confused. Actually I'm a 
citizen of that state.

This is what I'm thinking. Advice solicited.


The 2 reefing lines and the outhaul go to a Barient 10 winch on the boom with 
both a clam cleat ahead of the winch (outhaul) and a horn cleat behind 
(reefers). I don't intend to change that, at least not immediately. Be nice to 
have them aft, the reefers at least. Maybe someday.


The mainsheet, traveller lines, foreguy (starbord) and Genoa roller furler line 
(port) must come aft. There's a self tailing Bar 23 on the cabin top center at 
the cockpit for the main sheet (companionway is offset to starboard on the 
LF38) and clam cleats for the foreguy (on the starboard cabin side at the 
cockpit), roller furler (on the outside of the port coaming - goes to the 
primary sheet winch, a Bar 28) and traveller lines (cabin top, aft of the 
outboard ends of the traveller).

Secondary sheet winches (Bar 22) are forward of the primaries and will be used 
for the staysail sheets and the spin sheet. The spin guy will go to the 
primary, I think. Staysail and spin sheets go through 4 separate snatch blocks.


There are 4 cabin top winches (1 Bar 10s and 3 18s with individual 
cleats near the mast, and one Bar 10 on the mast with a cleat.

I have 4 rope clutches sharing one secondary cabin top winch (Barient 22) to 
port at the cockpit. There's a single horn cleat between the mainsheet winch 
and the 22 that is usually used to back up the clutch for the main halyard. The 
candidate lines to bring aft to the rope clutches are, in my order of 
preference:


1) Main halyard

2) Vang
3) Spin pole topping lift/staysail/storm jib halyard (3/4 height on the mast, 
and there is a narrow reaching staysail)

4) Primary Spinnaker halyard

This leaves:

5) Primary Genoa halyard
6) Secondary Genoa halyard
7) Secondary Spinnaker halyard
For the cabin top 18's near the mast and finally,


8) Spin pole slide uphaul
8) Spin pole slide downhaul 
For the mast and cabin top 10s, respectively.

This is not the current arrangement. Does what I propose make sense? Should I 
choose differently? 

Damn, that's a lot of lines! Do I really need to lube all 12 winches every 
year???!!! What have I gotten myself into


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco___
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Stus-List Spinnaker sheets for LF 38

[Daniel Sheer]

Advice on diameter material and length appreciated for spinnaker sheets on an 
LF38.

Thanks


Dan Shee
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Dorade boxes

[Daniel Sheer]

Martin,

The boxes on my LF38 are attached with screws from inside the cabin top. I 
needed to remove the headliner to get to them. Not too bad, actually, and the 
screws came out without excessive effort.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Windless and autopilot on LF38

[Daniel Sheer]

Frank,

I'm the guy you talked to at White Rocks 
Marina last weekend. I have had trouble with my 3HM35 overheating as 
well. It only overheats at heavy load, and when it did in the past, I 
reduced the rpm and motored on. I also had everything checked (but did 
not have the exchanger cleaned). Finally I reduced the pitch on my 
MaxProp by one setting, from 11 to 9 on an 18" 2 blade. That seems to 
have solved the problem. The boat cruises and 6.2 or 6.3 knots with the 
new setting and 2750 rpm. If someone thinks this is too slow, please let me 
know.

My horizontal Lewmar windlass is mounted aft of the chain 
locker. There's a hawse pipe that takes the chain into the locker, but 
it comes out too low. The chain jams unless you are moving it away from 
the aft end of the locker with a pole. I intend to fix this by raising 
the point at which the hawse pipe enters the chain locker. The Lewmar 
windlass works fine with 100' of chain in 30' of water. It's old, but 
I'll send the model number when I find it.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco___
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Stus-List e: LF38 rudder post grease fitting

[Daniel Sheer]

Never thought that there'd be this much discussion. Thanks to all.

Dan Sheer    

Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Kids on boats (was an arrogant woman blogs)

[Daniel Sheer]

My wife's an elementary school teacher. She doesn't think much of (helicopter) 
parents who hover over everything their kids do, and who insulate them from the 
real world and everything they perceive as risky (but certainly not all real 
risks, like driving). We didn't raise our kids that way, though my wife was 
more risk averse than I was. My parents let me use the 16', 40 hp runabout by 
myself from the age of 9. Only came close to death once - steering cable 
snapped, threw me from the boat. The boat came back at me. Had the time, good 
sense, and skill to dive; I can still hear the prop going over my head. Taught 
me the value of proper maintenance. 


My parents also let me go into the Adirondack wilderness with only a friend for 
a week when we were 13. That included a long bus trip to get there. We'd both 
had extensive experience with Scouting. These were formative and very valuable 
experiences. Being on your own teaches you that you can be on your own, and how 
to be on your own. Sailing does that too. I know of nothing that increases a 
kids self confidence more than handing her or him the helm. It's a wonder to 
watch. Bottom line, taking kids on boats is a good idea. Teaching them how to 
handle boats responsibly is an even better idea. Not showing kids how to 
understand and manage risks is likely to have a great negative impact on their 
lives. 

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List LF 38 rudder post grease fitting (again)

[Daniel Sheer]

Anybody know whether the bearing is metal or plastic? Trying to figure out what 
grease to use.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List LF38 rudder post grease fitting

[Daniel Sheer]

Anybody know if the LF38 has a grease fitting on the rudder post, and if so, 
where it is?

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Poli-Glow

[Daniel Sheer]

I've been using Nu-Finish on all my stuff for years. Easy to apply, I only use 
a buffer on the big boat 'cause my arm gets tired. Advertised as once a year on 
cars, seems to do the trick for me.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38 on Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Fw: LF38 Propane locker and stern ladder measurements

[Daniel Sheer]

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 4:36 PM, Daniel Sheer  wrote:
 
For those who asked.

Stern ladder
1" ss tube
14" wide
43" long
Rung spacing 14" - lowest rung and sides one piece. Top and middle rung welded 
in perpendicular

1st rung standoff  7.25 to inside of tube. One piece bent tube standoff

Top standoff 4" + .5" pad to inside of tube. 2 pieces. Top rung of ladder 
passes through close fitting tube for hinge.

 
Tank locker note, locker is a slightly curved along the width, curves are 
parallel front and back

width  24.5" overall,  22" interior
length 13" overall, 10.875 interior
depth 12" interior + 3" up in cover

Pictures are not attached - too big. Send a private message if you want 'em.


Dan
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco___
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Stus-List Landfall 38 propane locker question

[Daniel Sheer]

I replaced my two 5 lb tanks last year with steel. Didn't seem worth the 
expense to do anything else, and I don't use much propane here in Baltimore. 
Don't even have a heater. Worse comes to worst, firing up the diesel heats the 
cabin up pretty quick.  AC is what I need. And fans. In any case, I'll measure 
the locker on Sunday along with the stern ladder.

Dan

Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Subject: swim ladder for 38 landfall

[Daniel Sheer]

I'll send a pic and measurements soon as I get down to the boat, prolly Sunday. 
If Wally doesn't beat me to it.

Dan

Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Stus-List Wiring an Inverter

[Daniel Sheer]

Several have pointed out that wiring the inverter out to the shore power in 
could drain the batteries by powering the water heater and the converter. A 
transfer switch could stop this, or something that prevented the inverter from 
powering anything but the outlets. Got to think about that. 


Meanwhile, if the water heater was on it would certainly blow the fuse on the 
inverter. (hey, maybe that's what blew the original inverter!!) The converter 
would just drain the batteries. Everything would be OK if only I remembered to 
turn those two breakers off. If we had ham, we could have ham and eggs for 
breakfast. If we had eggs..
Nothin's simple, is it?


Using a power cord to jumper the inverter to the shore power inlet saves the
> need for significant A/C main circuit changes but you can?t be tempted to
> make this A/C connection permanent into you?re A/C panel without the
> introduction of a selector as suggested by Dennis. Normally you might also
> split the A/C side to have a set of circuits which is only be powered by
> shore power and those you are willing to power by inverter ? hot
> water/charger/AC vs cabin plugs, microwave. All this probably more than you
> want to do at this moment.
> ___
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Stus-List Wiring an Inverter

[Daniel Sheer]

Thanks to all for the advice. I was, indeed, talking about wiring into the 
shore power inlet, so no need for a selector switch, plus all the AC runs 
through the AC panel and breakers. I am, indeed trying to avoid making a 
permanent change into the panel. Why? AC fans are nice, small AC appliances can 
be brought on board, my rope cutter can be plugged in anywhere, AC chargers for 
things can be used, the no load draw for the inverter is small, and it's 
just generally convenient sometimes. 1000 watts is way more than I need so I 
won't drain the batteries, but the 1000 watt unit cost very little more than a 
smaller unit. Also, I think the case is automatically grounded to the 12v 
ground on the West Marine unit. But I will check. 


And I have 5 big batteries on the boat. Gotta use 'em for something! That's the 
real logic here.

The old, non-functional inverter had been wired to the main breaker on the 
panel by the PO.  Seemed safe enough, but not right to me, as you guys 
confirmed. I'll but it on a separate breaker/switch and wire it into the 
battery switch outlet.


Thanks again.

Dan


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 08:08:21 -0500
From: "Prime Interest" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power
Message-ID: <01cf2caa$805bb530$81131f90$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The inverter will ( should ) bind the A/C neutral and the A/C ground making
it as safe as is can on an insulated/isolated boat system. 



In the other thread ?Wiring an Inverter? remember to ground the inverter
case also ? this should be mentioned in the installation instructions for
your inverter.



Using a power cord to jumper the inverter to the shore power inlet saves the
need for significant A/C main circuit changes but you can?t be tempted to
make this A/C connection permanent into you?re A/C panel without the
introduction of a selector as suggested by Dennis. Normally you might also
split the A/C side to have a set of circuits which is only be powered by
shore power and those you are willing to power by inverter ? hot
water/charger/AC vs cabin plugs, microwave. All this probably more than you
want to do at this moment.







ed





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 12:08 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power



No, he was talking about making an adaptor to replace the shorepower supply,
which would be safe but ultimately draining. Sure you can do that, but why.
Invest in a safe and sane balanced electrical system . 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



On 17 February 2014 19:46, Gmail  wrote:

You need a selector switch to isolate the inverter from shore power. If you
connect the output of the inverter to your receptacles and then hook them to
shore power, you will likely destroy the inverter. 



Dennis C.

Touch?' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA 

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 17, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Daniel Sheer  wrote:

Can I connect the outlet of the inverter to the shore power inlet socket
(using an adapter of course)? I don't see why this would be a problem, but
what do I know. Even if I left the converter on it would just waste power, I
think. The advantage, of course, is that all of the AC outlets on the boat
would go live.

Thanks for advice.

Dan___
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Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power

[Daniel Sheer]

Can I connect the outlet of the inverter to the shore power inlet socket (using 
an adapter of course)? I don't see why this would be a problem, 
but what do I know. Even if I left the converter on it would just waste 
power, I think. The advantage, of course, is that all of the AC outlets 
on the boat would go live.

Thanks for advice.

Dan___
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