Stus-List plugged engine water intake

[robert via CnC-List]

David,

Next time your boat is hauled, put a thru hull strainer on ..the 
plastic ones cost approx. $10..have had one for 13 years with no issues.


https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=thru+hull+strainer

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax. N.S.

On 2019-08-09 8:44 a.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Last weekhttps://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=thru+hull+strainer on a 
cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water tank for 
showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed the 
sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few 
minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We re-anchored and I went 
below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but 
not enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a 
big clump of seaweek attached to the hull where the intake should be. 
 She managed to clear it and we got under way with no more trouble. 
 One lesson is to be careful of running the engine when the boat is at 
rest as I am sure you are much more likely to suck stuff into the 
intake as opposed to when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has 
never happened to me).  But the experience got me thinking about how 
to resolve the problem of a plugged intake without swimming.  Is it 
possible to take the basket out of the water intake strainer and run 
something flexible and stiff down the tube and clear the intake 
without diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or something like the 
fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small spaces. Anyone 
done this successfully?   Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Dow Corning 795

[robert via CnC-List]

Bill,
 I have not used 795 but someone here on the list found Pecora 895 
which is supposed to be a very similar product.


I did a window job over 10 years ago and used Sika 295 UV with the Sika 
Primer.windows without frames or screws/bolts are still in tack and 
water tight.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-07-26 6:23 p.m., Bill Dakin via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone use an alternative to 795 for the plexiglass seal?

Bill Dakin

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Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

[robert via CnC-List]

Bruce:

I have same thing except it is plastic...glued it on with 3M 5200 in 
2006 and it is still there and works finehave never had an issue 
with with raw water intake fouling.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.









Of course, how you put that in when the boat is in the water is 
another issue...


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


On Wednesday, June 19, 2019, 9:48:57 AM EDT, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Not really, although the west coast is quite abundant in kelp and sea 
weed.


marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 6:40 AM Richard Bush > wrote:


Are you guys going through an especially muddy area? Or maybe an
area where there is heavy vegetation growth?

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; in flood mode...
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane

,
Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Marc Boyd via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Marc Boyd mailto:marcboy...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 9:09 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Strainer Plugging Up

I'd be interested in a fix to, I'm on he West Coast, just a little
up the coast from you (Parksville) and mine plugs up every time we
motor out and back. C&C 30.

marc.

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 5:40 AM Allan Hester via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,


On a recent trip I found my sea strainer plugging up with sea
weed very often. The good news is its doing its job. The bad
news is it plugs up far too frequently.

It seems to happen most frequently when entering or leaving
various harbours here on the west coast.

On 2 occassions I noticed the temperature gauge climbing well
above its usual range between 170-180 F.

Its now to the point where I check the strainer before leaving
harbour which is a real pain.

Last season after leaving Nanaimo harbour it was plugged so
badly it starved the impellor pump to the point where the
impellor and seals had to be replaced.

My Beta 25 has less than 170 hours on it and it runs
beautifully. Perhaps the issue is the strainer is too small or
is an out dated model that can be upgraded?

Does anybody have any ideas on what can be done? Perhaps a
screen preventing sea weed from entering the pickup hose?

Thank you.

Al H.
Pacific Ranger
C&C 35 Mk3
Vancouver,BC
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-- 
marc.

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--
marc.
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Stus-List Spinnaker

[robert via CnC-List]

Tom:

You will get differing views on end for end or dip pole. Personally, I 
prefer the dip pole method..maybe that is because I was the bowman 
on different boats including a 1985 C&C 33 MKII where we only did the 
dip pole method.


Dip pole is especially better in heavier air, by better I mean safer and 
way easier to accomplish.there is no struggling or danger to the 
bowman if done right.  I always positioned myself in front of the 
forestay between it and bow pulpit squatting down, not standing up with 
my chest virtually resting against the forestay .lazy guy in one 
hand ready to receive the pole as it comes down and across with the 
other hand.


When it is choreographed correctly, it is a smooth, safe and effective 
means of controlling the chute in all conditions.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.



*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Tom Lynch via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, June 12, 2019 4:23 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Tom Lynch
*Subject:* Stus-List Spinnaker

Hi all,

I’m looking advice/recommendations on symmetrical spinnaker jibing on 
my 33 MK II


I’ve got a single set of spinnaker sheets

Should a deploy and add lazy sheets and guys?

Or use a twinning line barber hauling system

How to handle the baby stay?  Should I disconnect it and To facilitate 
a Pole dip or do pole end for end jibing.


Appreciate anyone’s thoughts and opinions on this subject.

Tom Lynch

IndoIrish

C&C 33 MK II

Bayfield Wisconsin.


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Re: Stus-List Help needed C&C 44

[robert via CnC-List]

Patrick:

In all likelihood, the 1988 C&C 44 you are looking at was built in 
Niagara on the Lake, Ont. Canada.


The Middleton, Rhode Island plant closed in November 1985.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%26C_Yachts

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




Hello,

I'm in the process of purchasing a 1988 C&C 44 and my customs
broker is giving me a hard time about its place of
manufacturing. As far as I can tell, all C&C 44s after the
prototype were built in Middletown, Rhode Island. Does anyone
know how I can prove this to the broker?

Thanks so much,

Patrick Gateley




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Stus-List Help needed C&C 44

[robert via CnC-List]

Patrick:

The HIN on the transom or inside a locker should tell you where the boat 
was built.


CCY is the Rhode Island 
 plant

ZCC is the Niagara on the Lake plant.


http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Whats%20a%20HIN%20.htm

Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On Jun 2, 2019, at 3:34 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


The HIN identifies place of origin. Is there no HIN stamped into the 
transom? The HIN will also be on your title and documentation.


Chuck S

On June 2, 2019 at 6:13 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello,

I'm in the process of purchasing a 1988 C&C 44 and my customs broker 
is giving me a hard time about its place of manufacturing. As far as 
I can tell, all C&C 44s after the prototype were built in 
Middletown, Rhode Island. Does anyone know how I can prove this to 
the broker?


Thanks so much,

Patrick Gateley



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 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
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Stus-List Shore Power at a Slip

[robert via CnC-List]

Edd:

When at the slip, I stay connected to shore power and leave my battery 
charger on when on the boat connected, I will run the fridge, hot 
water tank, etc.


My slip neighbor leaves his fridge on all SummerI can hear it running.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-05-31 12:02 p.m., Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

The Enterprise will soon be moving to a full-time slip location — a 
first in my boating history. So, a question for all of your slip 
owners out there with shore power:


Do you keep your shore power connected, your charger running, your 12V 
system on, fridge and other accessories on at all times, even if 
you’ll be away from the boat for a length of time?


Are there any negatives associated with doing that? I’m used to a 
mooring where everything is shut down when you leave the boat.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Re: Stus-List 37 Northern Lights

[robert via CnC-List]

Pete,

It is a coincidencenot the same boatthe 'Northern Lights' here 
is dark blue in color and I met the new owner.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-04-25 10:09 a.m., Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

Maybe just coincidence, but there's a 37 named Northern Lights for sale in WI 
for $50k.

http://barkers-island-marina.com/yacht-details/?boatID=6847626







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Stus-List C&C as offshore boat?

[robert via CnC-List]

John,

I think I might have met your friend.Christian Tirtirauif true, 
he bought a C&C 37 from an RNSYS club member...the boat was called 
Northern Lights.it was in great shapethe previous owner hardly 
used itsat on a mooring all Summer for several years.  It was on the 
market for approx. $35K  which I thought was an exceptional price for 
this boat and no one locally bought it.


If it is Christian, he once told me he likes to get on a tack and stay 
there for two weeks.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-04-25 7:58 a.m., John Christopher wrote:

Hi Robert,

His boat is now located at Shining Waters Marina.

He was at the Halifax marina for a few years. He upgraded his quite 
old equipment (Radar, batteries, chartplotter, wind, depth, speed. 
added a drogue, had the rod rigging inspected, added



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Stus-List C&C as offshore boat?

[robert via CnC-List]

John,

Just curious, is your friend with a 37 doing the crossing from Halifax, 
do just leaving from here?


Note your comment " he has prepared the boat over the last few 
seasons."something for Shawn to think about beyond his initial purchase.


A club member spent all last year preparing his boat (Hunter 41 ???)  
for his trip from Halifax to the Caribbean (staying there for a 
year).he spent more preparing his boat for the trip than Shawn is 
spending on purchasing a 35-II.


And then we have a sailor here that has crossed the Atlantic in a C&C 
27without all the bells and whistles (unlike the Hunter 41 with a 
fully enclosed heated cockpit).


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.




On 2019-04-24 6:47 p.m., John Christopher via CnC-List wrote:
I’ve got a friend leaving form Halifax to cross the Atlantic in his 
1985 C&C 37 this summer, cruise the Med for a few years, and then head 
for Caribbean.


He has over 25 years sailing experience (NZ, French Polynesia, 
Philippines, Taiwan, Japan, etc)


He has no issues going across the Atlantic in his 37, but he has 
prepared the boat over the last few seasons.


/John



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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[robert via CnC-List]

Marek,

As I stated earlier, the trucker would only bring my boat across the 
border (Windsor, Ont.) if I had hired a customs or 'border 
broker'the trucker put me in touch with him, he was located in St. 
Stephen's, New BrunswickI faxed him all the required paper work (he 
advised me what he needed)the trucker arrived/crossed at the border 
at around 3 a.m..he said the customs officers did not climb aboard 
the boat and ask to search ithe was cleared to go in less than 10 
minutes.   I think part of the reason for this expediency (not searching 
the boat) is that the customs officers were familiar with the 
truckerhe has made that crossing with boats many times.


After the boat arrived here in Halifax, the border broker e-mailed the 
bill for the taxes he paid on my behalf and his fee of $130that was 
in March 2006.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-04-16 11:57 p.m., Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

Your broker (customs broker) was cheap (mine was twice that much). But 
regardless it was worth it.

Marek




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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[robert via CnC-List]

Shawn:

Bringing a Canadian made C&C back the across the border requires the 
requisite tax...federal and provincial.


My boat came from Racine, Wisconsinthe trucker I hired to go get it 
would only do it if I hired a 'border broker'.when the trucker 
reached the Canadian border, the border broker handled all the red tape 
and paid the taxes.   no hassles or problems for anyone especially the 
truckerborder broker cost $130well worth it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-04-15 4:58 p.m., Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
Here in BC, there is a 12% PST on boats, unless purchased from a GST 
registrant (dealer), in which case it is 7% PST. Paying GST at the 
border will qualify you for the lower 7% rate, see below. In any case, 
it seems doubtful that there would be any concession for re-patriating 
a boat to BC based on these ridiculous tax laws. About the only way to 
reduce tax that I've ready about is to list items not normally 
attached to the boat separately, with item values, on a bill of sale. 
This means dinghy, outboard, BBQ, etc.






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Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[robert via CnC-List]

Alan,

A few seasons back, after motoring back home, I noticed antifreeze 
underneath the my engine (Yanmar 2GMF).   What I eventually discovered 
was that one of the 'bled or drain screws' had loosened just enough to 
cause a small leak.  On my engine, there are, I think, 3 outlets which 
have 'T shaped' taps which you open to drain the antifreeze, 2 for the 
engine and 1 for the heat ex changer, all on the starboard side of the 
engine.  There are small clear hoses, maybe 1/4", attached to each 
making it easy to drain into a container when each is opened.


Don't know if you have the same but worth a look.all I did was 
tighten them (the 1 from the heat exchanger) was the one loose, problem 
solved.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-04-05 12:45 p.m., ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I 
haven't seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose 
connections while the engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the 
likely cause is a leak in the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 
3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult is it to replace/repair the heat 
exchanger core?


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




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Stus-List : Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[robert via CnC-List]

We bent a spin pole on a C&C 33 MKII a day before the start of Chester 
Race Weekcalled the Binnacle who said bring the bent pole and they 
would have us a new one in two hours or less...they cannibalized it and 
only really needed a new tube, which they had. We were ready to go in 1 
1/2 hours.


Now if that had been carbon fibre, we would not have raced in Chester in 
our class.maybe cruiser class, white sail only, no spin.




On 2019-04-03 3:20 p.m., Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
One other thing to keep in mind: if you do damage a pole, and it’s 
carbon fiber, it’s going to be a pricey fix.  With aluminum, you can 
usually remove and reuse the end fittings and get new tubing; or if 
the damage is near an end fitting, cut the damaged tubing off and 
reinstall the end fitting on a shorter, but still usable, pole.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



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Re: Stus-List C&C 36-1 stuffing box

[robert via CnC-List]

Rod,

I have a 1" shaft and repacked the stuffing boxI used 1/4" .my 
stuffing box took 3 cuts or 3 wrappings around the shaft... 
staggeredwhen I went to put the nut back on I couldn't thread 
itpacking was too thickI took the third piece output the nut 
on and tighten the two in the boxopened it up again, put the third 
string back in .it now threadedadjusted tension.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-03-26 8:32 p.m., Rod Fisk via CnC-List wrote:
My 1981 C&C 36-1 needs new packing in the prop shaft stuffing box. 
Access is pretty poor, does anyone know the brand C&C was using at 
that time? I know the prop shaft is 1" but I can't tell what the ID of 
the packing gland is. The boat manual has only very general 
information. Does anyone have any idea what size packing it requires?


Rod Fisk
1981 C&C 36 "Corsair"
Sherwood, WI

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Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern

[robert via CnC-List]

Bailey,

The video doesn't look like conditions were heavy air downwind with a 
following seahead sail or main sail in those kind of conditions was 
the topicbut I agree, going upwind in a big breeze with a 100% jib 
works great on my boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-03-19 7:21 p.m., Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:
I went sailing with friends recently in heavy air and the winds built 
to 35 to 40 on my old C&C 36.  I had thought I would set a reefed main 
but found instead that I kept rolling the #3 up instead and never 
wanted for a main. The helm still felt good.


Here is a quick video a friend took that day:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ji7eivusac7qf9s/heavyairupwind.mov?dl=0

Please forgive the fender that rolled overboard and dragged in the 
video, the sail trim, etc.  I know better but was busy with 
non-sailing friends and happy to keep everyone safe.


The boat performed well and pumping the backstay kept the jib from 
being too full.  I only regret that I did not furl enough soon enough 
and did not furl enough overall even though I was at probably 50% 
furl. That was the most wind I've sailed this boat in.


I think the sturdy masthead rig is good without a main if need be.  A 
main would help reduce backstay loading as part of the load would be 
transmitted through the mainsheet.  My mainsheet is on the cabin top 
and doesn't have the leverage of the backstay though.


I believe it was Dennis who mentioned he sailed in 50+ downwind. 
 wow.  I haven't gotten this boat going that fast.  I am a big fan of 
jib only in heavy air downwind.



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Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern

[robert via CnC-List]

Don,

I have a 135% and use it most days alone most days without the 
main.I am now a lazy sailor.


I was specifically talking about downwind with a following sea. Downwind 
with a following sea in +20 knots, its the main alone for me.  Last 
Summer, I came in from about 8 miles out in this exact condition, 25 
knots true with a 3' following seatoo much sail with the jib 
unfurled and me single handed sailingrolled it up, main only doing 
5.8 to 6.1 knts on the GPSboat is well balanced, under control.


My traveler is on the cabin top in front of the companionway.my 
fingers are never going to get injured..my boom end is just to the 
front of the binnacle and I am not going to get hit in the head trimming 
from behind the binnacle.


Remember, not discussing going upwind.downwind in heavy air and 
following sea.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-03-19 3:29 p.m., Don Kern wrote:

Rob,

When I am out for a cruise I will use my roller furl only - upwind, 
reaching and downwind. A lot less hassle and i am not worried about 
someone losing their head to the boom or fingers to the main 
traveler.  The roller furl is 140% and most importantly the helm is 
balanced going upwind.  Main only, the boat is a dog upwind.


Don Kern
Fireball, C&C35 Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 3/19/2019 1:56 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Interesting comments for sailing down wind..my preference is to 
sail with the main aloneleave the jib furled.my boat, a 32, 
feels better balanced, better control of the sail, the bow is not 
being pulled downward, better helm.


Would I rather unfurl and furl a jib over hoisting and folding a 
main, you bet.but my boat preforms better with the main alone, or 
at the least, I think it does.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern

[robert via CnC-List]

Interesting comments for sailing down wind..my preference is to sail 
with the main aloneleave the jib furled.my boat, a 32, feels 
better balanced, better control of the sail, the bow is not being pulled 
downward, better helm.


Would I rather unfurl and furl a jib over hoisting and folding a main, 
you bet.but my boat preforms better with the main alone, or at the 
least, I think it does.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Does West Marine still put manual heads on sale every year?

[robert via CnC-List]

Bruce,

I have a Jabsco headthe pump was leaking sea water back into the 
head on starboard tackI priced a rebuild kit...the price for a whole 
new pump was marginally higher than a rebuild kit and a whole easier to 
swapgo for a new oneforget the rebuild.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-03-13 8:59 p.m., Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

Years ago, before I bought a Raritan base for my old boat, I would see 
West Marine put the Wilcox Crittenden Head Mate, and then the Jabsco 
heads on sale.  Usually it made more sense to swap out the entire head 
than to pay the price of the overhaul kit.


Do they still do that?

I need to get an overhaul kit or replace the one I have.

Thanks for the input,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Stus-List Spinnaker sail wanted--light air

[robert via CnC-List]

Brett

Try Bacon Sails...they might have what you are looking for.

We raced a 33 MKII and used a 0.5 oz. most of the timein heavier air 
we used the 1.5 oz.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax N.S.

On 2019-02-24 6:50 p.m., Brett Robertson via CnC-List wrote:

Anyone have a light weight symmetric spinnaker sail they would like to sell?  I 
have a 1.5oz, and want something for lighter winds.  Maybe .5oz or .75oz.  If 
you are familiar with any used sail websites or new sail companies that are 
reasonable please let me know.

I own a 1986 33 mk2.

Thank you,
Brett

brettrobertso...@gmail.com
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Stus-List Mast Wedge

[robert via CnC-List]

Steve:

Many of our C&C's have wooden wedges in the deck collarmy 32 has 3 
forward, 3 aft, and a slim one on each side.   I wouldn't put 'metal on 
metal' there.  Other have suggested Spartite.


As far as installing triangular aluminum mast steps, I have yet to see 
one of our C&C's with them.how often do you plan on going aloft?  I 
would rethink that.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-02-06 10:58 p.m., Steven A. Demore via CnC-List wrote:


I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The 
boat came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, 
just to get through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I 
asked the rigger what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he 
wasn’t sure whether C&Cs came with wedges, or a metal spacer. Does 
anybody know what the factory used to support the mast through the deck?


Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be 
checking on the mast?  I’m replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, 
replacing all of the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and 
checking out the step.  The boom has the internal blocks and wire for 
tensioning the foot of the main, but I don’t know whether that is 
accessible for maintenance or not.


One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular 
aluminum ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended 
against it because of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have 
thought on whether a series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken 
the mast?


Thanks,

Steve


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Re: Stus-List headsail, maybe 125-135?

[robert via CnC-List]

Brian;
You might want to try here:

https://baconsails.com/


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 2019-02-01 12:55 p.m., Brian Chambers via CnC-List wrote:

Richard and Robert,

Thanks for the input as we apparently are on the same page. I sail on 
Lake Michigan and the wind there can vary anywhere from light (10-15) 
to you don’t want to leave the marina. I have received a quote on a 
new sail (135) and was curious if there was an outlet for used sails.


Brian



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Stus-List headsail, maybe 125-135?

[robert via CnC-List]

Brian:

I have a 32.I single hand sail most days...I use a RF 135% and the 
majority of the days I don't hoist my mainto lazy to go through the 
bother and if I am only out for an hour or two, which happens a lot, why 
bother.  I just unfurl the 135% and goroll it up in seconds and 
that's it.


If I were to use my main every time I went sailing, I might use my 
110%the boat handles quite comfortably with that combination 
especially if single handed.  Is a 1/2 or 3/4 of a knot that important 
on a pleasure sail, well not for me.


Sail selection also has a lot to do with the prevailing conditions you 
are in.here in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada most days the wind for a 
135% seems to work just fine.a 150% is normally too much sail.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




-Original Message-
From: Brian Chambers via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brian Chambers 
Sent: Fri, Feb 1, 2019 10:04 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 100 to 110 headsail

I am fairly new to sailing as this will be my fifth year. I primarily 
cruise. I am over 60 years old and, although I enjoy the work of 
sailing, I dont want to make it too much work. My current headsail is 
a 155 and it is a lot of sail. The way I sail doesn't require that 
much. After posting this i would be wiser to have a 125 or so. I have 
a furler so I have no intent on changing sails.


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 





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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan

Simply release any backstay tension and secure the mast forward with 
halyards.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2019-01-30 9:40 a.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second 
glance that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The 
chainplate is on the other side and I won't know how it looks until 
I've removed it. I'll be sure to check it over thoroughly and replace 
if necessary. I'm not too woried if the backing plate has pits or 
cracks - it won't be under the same stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at dock 
like this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines then 
remove the attachments? Should I be letting off all of the stays to do 
this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS

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Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

[robert via CnC-List]

I thought about suggesting Paul however Dan seems to be a DIYer. Paul 
can certainly provide good advice if you have any questions Dan.


Mike, my brother was racing on that J120 when the bow sprit let go under 
load and blew back through the bulkhead.ugly!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-30 9:21 a.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Dan

You may wish to contact Paul Gallant of Gallant Marine Services.  He 
lives in Spinnaker Arms area very near you. Last off season he 
replaced a similar bulkhead in a J120 that separates the anchor locker 
from the vee berth.  He may be willing to take a look and provide 
advice.  This is Paul’s specialty.  Contact me off list and I can give 
you Paul’s number


Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com

On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:

I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:

*IMG_6750.JPG

*

*IMG_6747.JPG

*

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain
plate for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and
had been modified over the years. Of course no one thought to
isolate the core in there when drain holes were drilled and such
and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass
layer, each about 1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut
into the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and
re-bed in something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab
it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then
re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea?
will the new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced
bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan

Breakaweigh

C&C44

Halifax, NS



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Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:

From looking at your pictures, I would be concerned about the integrity 
of that bulkhead.  I can see five (5) bolts in the chain platetop 2 
look, bottom 2 not good, middle one not sure.


I would definitely cut out the rot and re-glassquestion is, are you 
going to remove the chain plate?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:

I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
IMG_6750.JPG 



IMG_6747.JPG 



On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain 
plate for the headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had 
been modified over the years. Of course no one thought to isolate the 
core in there when drain holes were drilled and such and now the core 
material inside the bulkhead is nearly disintegrated or rotten. There 
is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 1/4" thick and are 
well tabbed into the hull.


This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut 
into the exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and 
re-bed in something stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it 
into the hull.


Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then 
re-glassing one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will 
the new tabs be strong enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? 
(using good quality glass and epoxy)


Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS

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Stus-List Can recommend it

[robert via CnC-List]

My Malwarebytes 'anti' won't allow me to open the linkand if it's a 
diet pill advertisement, I got the right anti software.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-28 5:21 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
That’s not a healthy way to lose weight. Good diet, exercise and 
drinking lots of water much healthier lifestyle compared to taking any 
magic pill.


On Mon, Jan 28, 2019 at 4:39 PM Allan Rheaume via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


http://credible.super-40.com 

Allan Rheaume




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Stus-List AC75 boats

[robert via CnC-List]

On 2019-01-27 6:55 p.m., schiller via CnC-List wrote:  "Interesting work 
but I still prefer the old 12 meters and actually having to sail the boat."


Neil, I 100% agree with youthese boats without keels, as they are 
called boats, in my mind, don't sail, they foil or fly. Here's what 
sailing was all about:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfzSbsXmlJs

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.





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Stus-List Emergency tiller

[robert via CnC-List]

I have a 32...emergency tiller is 'S' shaped bottom slot fits over 
square on rudder shaft just behind binnaclecomes up over the 'hump 
seat' and you steer from thereI have used it a few times just to see 
how it all would workI taped a wrench to the tiller that tightens 
the nut to the shaft fitting.


First thing I realized was that it does not work like the tiller on my 
Kirby 25because the 32 emergency tiller is behind the pivot point 
and not in front of it.everything is opposite to normal.probably 
not that important in open water but still nice to know.


It works but here's hoping I never need to use it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.




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Stus-List Reversing

[robert via CnC-List]

Nathan:

I have a 32smaller boatwhat I did to help backing out from my 
slip was to tie a line , double looped with a knot for better grip on my 
toe rail just of forward of my starboard gatelet all lines go pull 
the boat backward on the slip and step up through the gate to the the 
binnacle and put the boat into reverse with already some backward motion 
to engage the rudder.  Short bursts of reverse and 
neutral...repeat.or if the conditions are right, just back out.


I have days when I get a northeast cross wind that blows my bow out no 
matter what.on those days, I just wait on the slip...all lines 
released except a special one mid ship I only use for this 
situationa line from the mid slip deck cleat with a brass snap 
shackle I clip to the toe railI wait for the puffs and then it 
subsidieswhen I feel it is right to let go, unshackle, pull on the 
line to get reverse before I put the engine in reverse and I have gotten 
out without touching the 'aircraft carrier' next to me.a Nonsuch 36, 
very wide and doesn't leave me much room between boats.


Everyone will figure out something that works for them, both getting out 
and getting in.  And I say this as I single hand most days so I have to 
figure something out that works for me.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-01-24 6:39 p.m., Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:

On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I 
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop).  I had a slip last 
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard 
and the finger to starboard).  I tried a strategy that was discussed on the 
list last summer and found that it worked really well for me because I could 
get the boat moving backwards and get steerage before putting it in reverse:

1) take a long spring line from the bow and loop it around a dock cleat near 
the stern and take it back up on deck to my primary winch and cleat it.
2) Put the engine in gear forward and adjust the helm to hold the bow in place 
and remove all other dock lines (the engine and spring line hold the boat in 
place).
3) With all crew on board, put engine in neutral, center the helm, and start 
pulling the spring line in the cockpit (around the winch).  This gets the boat 
moving backwards.  Keep pulling until the cleat on the dock is even with the 
winch and then flip the line off the cleat.
4) once the line is off the cleat with the boat already moving back I can put 
her in reverse and accelerate backwards.
This works for single handing and with a crew managing the spring line - avoids 
having an inexperienced crew trying to jump on board after the boat is moving.

Having the boat moving so the rudder is working as a foil before putting it in 
reverse was the key to avoiding the stern going sideways into my neighbor 
rather than backwards.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper, 1981 C&C34
Malden MA


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Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[robert via CnC-List]

Mark:

You said " my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the wrong 
way."  Seems you are having more of an issue with a cross wind blowing 
your bow to port (I am assuming bow in, starboard dock?) shifting stern 
to port.


A club mate here has a 40' some boat with the same issue with his slip 
(bow in, starboard slip)what he did was run a line on the slip 
between the two far end dock cleatson the line was a block attached 
to 8 or 10 feet on line,  When he leaves the dock, usual his wife stands 
on the bow with the line in her hand and as he backs out, she holds the 
line with just the right tension to keep the bow parallel, the block 
runs down the line, and she walks back the deck with the line until she 
longer needs itthrows it on the dock.


But this only works if you have a crew mate.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow 
even in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop 
walk to port.


I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to 
steer my stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard 
swinging me the wrong way.


Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full 
rudder


Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option

Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the 
bow to starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.


--


Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson

"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com 
WWW.watsonandson.com 

 




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Re: Stus-List Removing powder coat

[robert via CnC-List]

'Dry Ice Blasting'  clean, efficient, fast, environmentally 
friendly... check out any Wickens websites for info and videos


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2019-01-17 5:25 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Since I've decided to remove Touche's steering pedestal for 
refurbishing, a buddy of mine has offered to prime it and shoot it 
with Awlgrip left over from painting his mast.


The issue now becomes removing the old powder coat.  I researched the 
topic and found a lot of comments about Benco B-17.  However, this 
stuff seems really nasty.  Not to mention the smallest quantity 
available is 5 gallons which leaves me with a disposal problem.


Couple sites mention aircraft stripper, whatever the heck that is.

There are local shops where I can get it media blasted.

Not excited about sanding or wire brushing.  Any options I'm missing?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Keel Bolt Washers

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:

Try a Fastenall outlet hereI know there is one in Dartmouth, been 
there for various things..maybe one in Halifax.


Another alternative is to have Rod's Machine Shop in Burnside make you 
what you need.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-15 10:57 a.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All, I know  this has been discussed many times here but this is a 
quick and simple one.


I'm going to be torquing my keel bolts this spring and I've noticed 
that the washers/spacers under some of the nuts are coroding and need 
to be replaced. I'd like to change them out for Stainless Steel.


What do you guys have for keel bolt washers/spacers and how did you 
get them made?


Thanks!

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS

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Stus-List C&C 32 not 36

[robert via CnC-List]

Ted,

It's a C&C 32, an earlier one with a tiller.I think there were four 
32's that latter the "D" model had Edison Wheel Steering.


I have a 1984 32 #277it has the wheel.

If I were buying a boat to cruise, I would want a wheel.   Nice boat though.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-01-14 5:14 p.m., Ted Drossos via CnC-List wrote:
That's a nice looking 36 especially for its age. I was surprised to 
see a tiller and not a wheel. Not a negative, just an observation.


Ted Drossos
C&C 110
Lady in Red
Long Island, NY

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Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[robert via CnC-List]

Shawn:

Your on the West Coast, I live on the East Coast.the Great Lakes is 
in the middle and there are a lot of boats on the Great Lakes, possibly 
many for sale.


In 2005 I sold a Kirby 25 and was looking for a C&C 30 MKI all along the 
East Coastcouldn't find one that I was interested in other than one 
for sale right here in Halifaxit had been extensively updated, 
however, there was a potential buyer in 'front of me'he bought the boat.


I kept looking on Yachtworldthen in early 2006 I saw a 1984 C&C 32 
in Racine, Wisconsinoriginal owner, well maintained and eager to 
sell (he had bought a new Dufour36)


The point is that after the agree selling price, taxes at the border, 
trucking costs, the C&C32 cost me approx. $2,500 more than the local C&C30.


However, if your budget won't permit you to go above $25K, doing 
something similar in your case might not be in the cards if trucking 
costs are added to the selling price for a Canadian Great Lake boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-10 12:58 a.m., Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few 
listings around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have 
visited and walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but 
being on an island, that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising 
grounds in our backyard. There are new private listings starting to 
appear every day now, but nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem 
is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so the boats that have 
interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my price 
range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not 
been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos 
I've seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now 
considering the CS 30, but they are much less common here. Lots of 
C&Cs, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like $30K+. I 
even looked at Catalina 30...


The only C&C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker 
says it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, 
so he won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C&Cs here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more 
common that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.


I do need to get on board a few more C&Cs to get a feel for them, as I 
have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a 
must. Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle 
rough seas that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation 
Sound. And that usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to 
get for $20-25K CAD.


But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

Thanks




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Stus-List Olde Stuck Seacock

[robert via CnC-List]

Eric:

I have a 1984 C&C 32 sea cocks are Marelon so I don't have the 
problem of them seizing up...every haul out I spray the ball with 
lithium grease and close and open a few timesmy seacocks are open 
all the time.


Try mixing a solution of 50% acetone - 50% automatic transmission fluid 
and apply that to your seized seacockuse a Q Tip to apply the 
solution.don't get it on the hull or don't leave it there.this 
solution is the best I have used for seized metals.


My cockpit scupper hoses are crossed, as they should be when the thru 
hulls are below the waterline lineno water back up into the cockpit 
on a same tack unless your thru hull(s) is in a different position(s) 
than mine.


That's a grease cup on your rudder tubeif it works, you unscrew the 
cup, fill it with grease, screw back on and twist tight to force the 
grease into the shaft.have someone turn your wheel from side to side 
to draw in the grease and turn again and again.you will get to a 
point where it doesn't want any more grease .


If the cup is too badly corroded, leave it tap and drill a new fitting 
to screw a grease gun to the shaft tube .it will work just as good.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-30 12:17 a.m., sender via CnC-List wrote:
I bought earlier this year a C&C 32.  One issue the surveyor pointed 
out is the seacocks for the cockpit drains are stuck in the open 
position.  This boat has spent it's known history in cold salt water 
on the west coast of BC.


I'm interested to know if anyone else has had this same type of 
seacock, and had success freeing it up.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/xp1haN2nPHUneETUA

The starboard side one is only barely accessible through the 12"x 12" 
panel in the aft end of the quarter-birth.  If it was reasonably 
accessible, I'd just replace it, but to get 2 hands on it I'd probably 
have to go through the locker and remove the fuel tank.


The other pic is a fitting on the rudder tube.  I assume this is 
(well, was) a grease cup.  Has anyone taken one of these on?


Thanks,
Eric
C&C 32 Sirocco 2

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Stus-List Powder coating steering pedestal - pitfalls?

[robert via CnC-List]

I did something similar about 8 years agomy pedestal paint was 
fadedbought a rustoleum flat paint and applied two coats.never 
used a primerit still looks good after 8 seasons in the weather and 
with the 'flat finish' it is hard to tell the difference between 'powder 
coating'.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-01 10:53 a.m., WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote:


I hesitate to comment because of the status on this list of Dennis and 
others, whose technical expertise far surpasses mine, but here we go...

My friends think of me as VERY particular about my CnC...
5 years ago my pedestal was looking rough.  I decided to paint it.  
Removed what I could easily, taped off what I couldn't, mask off the 
cockpit with plastic to catch overspray, sanded lightly.
Used a rustoleum primer, then three light coats of rustoleum semi 
gloss.  My pedestal was black originally, so kept with that.
5 years later it still looks great...I can't imagine the issues I 
would have faced to pull the pedestalbut I would paint again if it 
needed it.

Are you sure you need to powder coat?

Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi





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Stus-List Stuck Seacock issue

[robert via CnC-List]

My 1984 C&C 32 has all Marelon seacocksnot as great a chance for 
them to seize as metal ones.nevertheless, every layup, I give them 
all a spray of lithium grease and close and open them .


The scupper hoses are crossed even though the "far side thru-hill 
would be higher when heeled" the water can still drain out as the thru 
hull is under the boat..this way there is no chance of water backing 
up into the cockpit when heeled, which would probably happen given the 
location of my thru hulls.


C&C didn't put them them by accident.

Rob Abbott
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-12-31 11:07 a.m., Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
Agreed that cockpit drains should always be open and functioning 
correctly.  I had one closed for some repair work on my old Ranger 26 
and decided it would be safe to race the boat with one functioning 
cockpit drain.  Worked great as long as we were on the right tack.  We 
were nervously bailing on the other tack several miles offshore. Never 
again.
I am curious to hear more about the idea of crossing the hoses.  It 
does not make sense to me as the far side thru-hull would be higher 
when heeled.




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Stus-List Denis' Excellant Translantic Adventure

[robert via CnC-List]

Hi All:

Just curious what was your take on Denis's sailing experience(s).

Also interested to know that your are referring to Denis Litton of 
Halifax, N.S., club member of the RNSYS.


If yes, I know DenisDenis has many 'blue water' experiences'in 
the Summer of 2018, he sailed from Halifax to the Azoreshelping with 
an Atlantic crossing of a club member.in Nov. , he sailed with a 
club member from the RNSYS to the Caribbean.


Denis had a, I think Niagara 35, a 35 footerhe sailed from Halifax 
to Europe, around the British Isles, down to Gibraltar, all around the 
Mediterranean, back out across the Atlantic to the Caribbean, up the USA 
coast, back home.


If we are talking about the same Denis, you might want to talk to him 
again if you are contemplating 'blue water sailing'.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-22 11:10 a.m., David via CnC-List wrote:

Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage 
aboard his C & C 27 Mk 5.


Call details;

  * 12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  * (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240


Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 
475-4957


Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the 
server did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will 
forward it to you.


Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. 
Even if you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.


The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend 
Stu.




*David F. Risch, J. D.*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *


 
	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
 




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Stus-List repairing oil leaks

[robert via CnC-List]

Bill:

That's exactly the product I used.I made one application where the 
gasket was splitI could see the split in the gasket and with the 
engine running, you could see the tiny oil leak, not a lot but a 
nuisance.doesn't leak with the engine not running because there is 
no oil pressure forcing it out the tiny opening.  I cleaned the area 
(engine) with acetone to get a good bond.I just squeezed a dab from 
the tube down the areasmoothed over with my finger and it has been 
fine for 5 years.
Eventually, it will probably break down but no sign of that happening so 
far.  And Canadian Tire carries this product all the time.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-06 5:58 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


After an endorsement, like that, I just had to have some!

Amazon makes things too easy – 7 bucks, click and done!

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1




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Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[robert via CnC-List]

I have a Yanmar 2GMF...5 years ago, I notice some oil under the sole at 
the front of the enginepretty easy to determine where it was coming 
from...you could see the leak on the lower front of engineonly 
leaked a few drops when the engine was runningno leak with the 
engine stopped.  Cleaned the area up and you could actually see where 
the gasket was split and thus the oil leak.


Bought a new gasket but even though I might consider myself a DIY guy, I 
wasn't going to attempt to take the front of the engine apartI might 
get it apart but would I get it back together.


Talked to a few diesel mechanics at the club who said they would do it 
but it would costnot overly difficult for them but time consuming 
like many boat projects, part(s) are minimal cost, labor cost is high.


Friend was aboard one day...he can do this kind of workwe talked it 
over...told him I had the big gasket.he really didn't want to do it 
so he told me to go to Canadian Tire and buy a $10 tube of Ultra Copper, 
clean the leak area with acetone and apply the stuff with your finger 
over the leak.


That was 5 years ago, there has been no oil leak since, I still have the 
old tube of Ultra Copper and I still have the new gasket on board.


Some day I might get the new gasket installed, and then as long as the 
Ultra Copper keeps the oil from leaking, I may not incur the 
expense.maybe the next owner will and I even give him the gasket.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-12-06 2:48 p.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the 
timing cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I 
finally had a window of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  
Everything went smoothly and the engine is back together and works.  I 
came away with some observations and questions though.  To start here 
are some pictures/video of the cover before reinstalling.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the 
engine block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean 
as you see it in the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of 
the remnants were feathered in.  Anybody have experience  getting a 
seal with this much residue?


The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  
The new gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and 
semi-reflective.  My only hesitation was weather or not to use a 
sealant.  And the lingering question of, "Why did the OEM change the 
material?"  What are the benefits of a graphite gasket?  RTV sealant 
or not?  I ended up using just enough RTV sealant on both sides to 
provide a light smooth coat.


The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the 
timing cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  
Instead, I simply replaced the shims that were there with new ones of 
the same thickness.  Anything that messes up that thickness will 
change the timing so the use of a THIN sealant is required.  Remnants 
of sealant and damage to the shims made measuring the thickness of 
each shim tricky.  I tried to measure a combined thickness of the 
stack of old shims and compare it to the thickness of the stack of new 
shims, because of the combined effects of damage and sealant, the old 
stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.  I measured and 
remeasured and I am extremely confident that I selected the exact same 
number and thickness of replacement shims as was installed by the 
OEM.  I can't recall the source but Blue Locktite is evidently the 
recommend sealant.  I realize that Locktite makes a number of 
different products in various colors, not just thread locker.  There 
was an associated product number which I was also unable to recall.   
Instead of loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I had 
laying around.  A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.


While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump 
came out.  The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud 
may have been bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the 
required pressure to that corner of the HP pump.  Also contributing to 
the oil leak.


So the moment of truth arrived and the engine started without a 
hitch.  I immediately noticed that it seemed to idle a little faster.  
I let it run in gear at about 2k rpm for about 2 hours before having 
confidence to leave the dock. No oddities except slightly higher idle 
rpm.  While running around on the water I tried full throttle/rpm to 
see if there was "more power".  Throttle felt smooth and responsive.  
It seemed like a higher rpm was achievable.  Typically, with a dirty 
prop and bottom 2800 or 3000 rpm is the most I would get before black 
smoke would develop.  This time I got to about 3400 rpm with no black 
smoke and more throttle.  T

Stus-List Stuffing box issue

[robert via CnC-List]

"Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell 
what size packing they use."


Don,
I have 1984 C&C 32 with a 1" prop shafttypical stuffing 
boxreplaced with 3/16"3 strandsfirst two strands went in but 
when I put in the 3rd strand, I couldn't not thread the nuttoo 
tightso I took out the 3rd strand and put the nut on and tighten it 
to compress the first two strands and then put the 3rd strand back in 
and I could then put the nuts together.


My point is 3 strands of 3/16th on my 1" shaft is what worked for me.

Any particular reason you used 1/4' packing and not 3/16th?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[robert via CnC-List]

Don:
Can't say exactly what your problem might beyou said you used 1/4 
inch flaxon what size prop shaft?   I have a 1" shaft and use 3/16" 
and it works fine.  This might be helpful:


https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/

Can't suggest anything with the engine issuenot my expertisebut 
if air is getting into your fuel system, it will stall your engine.


I had problem that involved an 'air leak'not the same as yours but 
significant.launched, started the engine, no water exhaust from the 
transom thruhullstop engine, check all hose connections, thru hulls 
which don't ever get closed over winter are all openstart engine, no 
water exhaust.now whatfinally put light on the raw water 
strainer with glass bowl which still has antifreezetighten the 2 
wing nuts on the top of the strainer which was sucking air and not sea 
water and we are good to go.  It can be that simple or worse.


Rob Abbott
AZURAbut
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.





On 2018-12-02 10:39 p.m., DON JONSSON via CnC-List wrote:

Stuffing Box Issues

In the last week we took the boat out of the water, put on a new Campbell 
Sailor prop.,  pulled the shaft and put in a new cutlass bearing, and repacked 
the stuffing box.

Considering it is a boat all went reasonably well.  As an aside we are very 
happy with the prop in the short test we did.  More power and way smoother than 
the two bladed prop we took off.  Way smoother.

However, this was my first attempt at doing the stuffing box and it is not 
going well.  Previously I always paid someone, perhaps a lesson there.  I'm 
hoping someone can give some insight.

We used flax rings 1/4 inch which seem to fit well into the nut.  They were cut 
at 45 degrees and the cuts placed at different positions around the shaft.  
Before being pushed in.  We used 4 rings.

At the moment it is dripping slightly when not running.  When starting out the 
box drips slowly when at idle whether in gear or not.   As you power up it 
continues to drip but as the box warms up the dripping slows down, causing the 
box to get warmer and warmer.  Ultimately the dripping stops and things get 
hot.  When you stop and go back to idle and let it cool down it ultimately 
starts to drip again.  You can loosen the nut so that when not running you are 
getting a steady drip, but when you power up the process repeats itself.

So the question is what have I done wrong?

Dirty Fuel Blues

In a previous email I talked about fuel problems we were having that seemed 
odd.  Odd in that we thought it was dirty fuel but the primary filter wasn't 
that dirty.  And we ultimately got the engine running again without changing 
the filter.  Someone suggested that it could be air in the top of the Racor 500 
filter and then when running the engine while motor sailing if you had enough 
heel you would get bubbles in the fuel line which would cause the problem.  And 
that scenario of motor sailing is what was going on shortly before the engine 
died.Sure enough we had air in the top of the filter, which we thought 
could have been from not properly filling it when we recently (previous to the 
problem) changed the filter.  So we drained the tank, sucked out everything on 
the bottom so that it is reasonably clean, changed the filters and filled to 
the top the Racor 500.  Everything runs fine now, except the top of Racor 
housing continues to get about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of air in it.  We
  have checked lines, tightened everything that can be tightened, etc.  All the 
fittings have been re-taped and tightened, etc.

That air has to be coming from somewhere, right?  And we think that was the 
cause of our engine quitting.

Any ideas?

As always, thanks.

Don
Andante, C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[robert via CnC-List]

Have you ever thought about dry ice blastingeffective, quick, 
clean.check out this or just Google dry ice blastingdid my boat 
bottom this way.


https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=wickens+dry+ice+blasting&qpvt=wickens+dry+ice+blasting&FORM=VDRE

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax N.S.


On 2018-12-02 5:19 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Some parts of my engine (Beta 28) are flaking their Ford red paint and 
before I clean and paint the entire engine, I would like to
soda blast these parts--sanding or even wire brushing would be 
ineffective since much of the flaking is in places where it

is difficult if not impossible to fit, let alone use a small brush.

Since the areas are small, I thought I might use a relatively small 
volume air compressor to do it. OTOH, most sites on the web

claim that you need a large volume compressor to do blasting like this.

I think that with a smaller volume tank I might only get serious 
pressure in short time bursts while the compressor motor works to
build up the tank pressure. Is this correct and if so, could such a 
small job be tackled without a large volume compressor?


Has anyone on the list attempted something like this with success (or 
not!)?


Charlie Nelson
C&C 36 XL



cenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Sent: Sun, Dec 2, 2018 8:24 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best 
water based degreaser going.


On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything
I have ever used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to
get it on your hands for very long. Rubber gloves would help
Bill Coleman
C&C 39, Erie PA

On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of
oil etc. Some of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.
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Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[robert via CnC-List]

My batteries are Group 27's, deep cycle, made by Great Northern 
Batteries purchased in April 2009 and have seen 10 sailing seasons 
now.one get used almost every day during the sailing seasonI 
alternate use from one day to another to even their use. They have never 
been off the boat since purchased.


My boat gets shrink wrapped with an access door so I can go aboard 
easily..however, last year on Xmas day, we had a big wind storm that 
somehow blew my door off never to be foundI had extra shrink wrap so 
I cut apiece to cover the opening and Tuck taped in place..In 
November, the batteries were fully charged with topped up electrolyte 
with everything disconnected. I did not go aboard until the first week 
of April.


In April, I tested the batteriesone was 12.48V, the second was 
12.52V.a little discharge but that is to be expected.  If your 
batteries can hold their charge, I see no reason to remove very heavy 
batteries where their is also the risk of an accident occurring moving 
them.  I recall weighing one and it was something over 50 lbs. which is 
not an insignificant weight to be moving around even if the battery has 
a plastic handle to carry it.


I really should be thinking about replacing them but they still hold 
their charge.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-02 8:26 a.m., Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: 
Surrette Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage


http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm

Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge _very_ slowly, the colder 
the storage temperature, the slower. Start with them fully charged and 
everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.


Ken H.



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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[robert via CnC-List]

Dave:

If the electrolyte is covering the plates and strong (specific gravity 
of each cell approx. 1.260) you should have no issues with the batteries 
doing this.


When I go aboard my boat over the winter (on the hard), I plug in the AC 
power and give the batteries a charge.  At our club, given the close 
proximity of the boats stored on the property, you are not permitted to 
leave the shore power connected to an unattended boat.if one boat 
caught fire, many more would also.  In case someone deliberately or 
unintentionally left their power cord plugged in, the night watchman 
makes his rounds of the property and disconnects any he finds.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-01 8:10 a.m., Dave via CnC-List wrote:
Windstar has two parallel group 31 batteries as the house bank, and a 
single start battery with a 20a multi bank smart charger.
For winter I top up the electrolyte , and leave the shore power cable 
connected to the well-covered boat, coiled and hanging from the prop 
shaft.   Charger turned on.
Every month or so I emerge from hibernation and connect the boat 
overnight  to an outlet in the yard via a cheater cable to top up the 
batteries.

Seems to work fine.   Can anyone see any issue with this approach?

Thanks.
Dave -
33-2 on the hard near Toronto.



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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[robert via CnC-List]

 I prepare the batteries for winter on the boat by topping up the 
electrolyte, fully charge the batteries, check the specific gravity of 
all 12 cells looking for 1.260 or better, clean it, and disconnect 
everything from themsome say disconnect only the negative,some say 
the positiveI do both, beats deciding which one is the right one.


The single biggest threat or chance of an accident where I live is 
freezing.if the specific gravity is 1.260 or close, the temperature 
would have to be something like minus -80 to -90 F


If that happens,  2 frozen, dead batteries will be the least of my problems.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-11-30 9:23 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
Rob Abbott’s method works but in addition i recommend disconnecting 
the cable from the positive terminal





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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[robert via CnC-List]

There is a marine contractor at our club, who also owns a boat, and who 
is very knowledgeable about proper boat maintenance and he leaves his 
batteries on his boat over our winters. he just gives them a full 
charge and turns the battery disconnect switch off. ..doesn't even 
disconnect everything from the battery itself. He checks each cell to 
ensure the electrolyte is to the top of each plate and brings them to 
full charge.


If the battery is in good condition with the acid of a specific gravity 
of around 1.260, the freezing temperature to do any harm to it would be 
colder than anything we might experience in North America.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-11-30 11:15 a.m., Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
I have two batteries that I am looking for information on how to 
Maintain my batteries over the winter.  What charger to purchase and 
process to follow. Any information would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI

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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[robert via CnC-List]

On 2018-11-30 1:19 p.m., ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote: " If you don't 
have access to electricity, remove the batteries from your boat, and 
store them in your heated garage till you're ready to launch in the spring."


Why remove the batteries from the boat?  What is the harm in giving them 
a full charge, disconnecting everything and leaving them on the 
boatI have been doing this for years with never an 
issue.batteries have been left all winter, not given a charge over 
the winter and they were fine in the Springvery slight drop to say 
12.4V to 12.5V.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[robert via CnC-List]

Ray:

I have 2 Group 27's deep cyclenow 9 years old, and I leave them on 
the boat over the winter with everything disconnected.   They get a full 
charge in the Fall during layup bringing up to 6.2V to 6.4V.also 
check the levels of the electrolyte (acid) and add distilled water if 
necessary before charging.


For a few winters, I have left them this way without a charge until 
Springin the Spring, they read 12.4V to 12.5V.   Most winters, I 
will visit the boat and give the batteries a charge with a 6V 
charger.maybe an hour on each battery.   Never an issue.


There is a permanent 'smart charger' on the boat but our club will not 
permit an electrical connection to the boat if it is unattended, good 
policy for obvious reasons, but being on a trickle charge all winter has 
not been necessary .


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S

On 2018-11-30 11:15 a.m., Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
I have two batteries that I am looking for information on how to 
Maintain my batteries over the winter.  What charger to purchase and 
process to follow. Any information would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
.
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI

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Stus-List Glue residue

[robert via CnC-List]

I took the glue residue off my transom when I took the old name off with 
a very inexpensive product called Goo Gonea liquid in a small 
plastic container.after several applications, it even seemed to 
lift, at the least, lighten the gelcoat where the old vinyl was 
removed.  There is no abrasive, just liquid.


I probably didn't need to spend $4 or $5 Gasoline or a paint 
thinner, readily available in my garage, probably would have worked just 
as well.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


Hey all;

I finally managed to remove the 2018 CRW bow stickers from my 
boat--talk about delaying things!


Anyhow, I am now left with the residue of the glue on my Awlgrip 
painted hull.


Goo-gone did nothing to help remove them or the glue residue.

I am thinking I need a petroleum based product but am hesitant to just 
go for it because of the Awlgrip.


OTOH, I am hesitant to use a scotch-brite pad, etc. for fear of 
scratching the Awlgrip.


Suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com


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Stus-List Engine oil

[robert via CnC-List]

Rotella 15W40 15w40 marine diesel oil.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Winterizing water system

[robert via CnC-List]

I try to keep it as simple as possibledrain the fresh water tank, 
hot water tank into the bilge and then close up...keep the pressure 
water system on and blow as much of the water from the hoses/taps/ hot 
WT/showerpour approx 2 gallons of RV or Plumber's AF into the fresh 
water tank and turn on the pressure system and have AF running from 
every outletif that happens, then the hoses and pumps have AF in 
them.  Run AF out through the head shower pump/hose(s).  Run AF out 
through the electric bilge pump...out through the main bilge pump with 
the cockpit handle.out the head.


A little AF gets into the hot water heater but the entire water system 
gets fresh water flushed a few times each Spring  before the engine is 
started and any heat gets to the hot water tank.  I make sure that if 
there is any AF left in the hot water tank, it is flushed with fresh 
water and no heat gets to the hot water tank with AF in it.


When I am ready to fill my fresh water tank to start the season, I add a 
bottle of gin even though I don't drink the water from the tank.I 
like the gin better than a tablespoon of bleach...yes it costs more but 
it does a great job keeping the tank fresh.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[robert via CnC-List]

Hi Dwight:

I have enough 'fun' with the boat since hauledI don't need another 
one if not really necessary.I have cleaned the bottom down to the 
barrier coat...when the boat was hauled some the paint was flaked and 
lifted, so I started wet sanding with 40 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper, 
then I pulled out a putty knife, then a scrapper and finally a tungsten 
carbide scrapper.


I swore I would never do a bottom and here I did mine the past few 
weeks.  I painted my bottom last Fall, first time I had done 
thatdon't think the old paint was dry enough to accept the new 
paintnot sure but I didn't like what came out of the water this 
Fall.  Other than under the pads, the bottom is stripped and now sanded 
smooth.


Rob

On 2018-11-18 4:12 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
I would say in your case robert not very often. Check the freezing 
point around here if its -20c or below good to go. Only other thing is 
depletion of corosion inhibitors i would also say your antifreeze is 
good on that. I use Prestone conc and dilute to 50/50 with distilled 
water. I had to replace my heat exchanger and my fresh water pump so i 
used a fresh mix to fill then. I have never changed coolant in any 
vehicles i owned. Very seldom did our lab see a need to change this in 
naval systems either. But it’s cheap so if you want some fun go for it





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Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[robert via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Thank you for the infoit was your earlier informative post on Yanmar 
antifreeze that got me thinking about flushing and new antifreezeI 
have been using Prestone Long Life for the part 12 years so I will 
continue to use it and it is readily available.  I will probably not be 
changing it every years, as some recommend.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Engine Antifreeze

[robert via CnC-List]

Have a Yanmar 2 GMF with a 'manual' where I can not and / or have not 
yet found any guidance on when the recommended change should occur.3 
years, 5 years, or engine hours???


Anybody with some guidance because I know it has been a few years since 
I have changed the engine antifreeze?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List C&C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[robert via CnC-List]

Steve:
Is your traveler on the cabin top in front of the companionway? Main 
sheet runs forward to the mast and then back to a winch and cleat cabin 
topnext to companionway?


That's how my 32 was rigged.totally useless for me to single hand 
sail which is what I do mostly.


I can try to describe what I did but I might have a few pictures on an 
old laptop (that I haven't fired up in a while but should work) that 
would be much better than me describing.


I can now trim my main sheet from behind the wheel..I bought a new 
main sheet spliced to a fiddle block with cam cleat and becket (also new 
purchase) one new double block and a few blocks I already had.


The fiddle block attaches to the centre of the traveler with the main 
through the various blocks back to the helsman.and because the 
height of the main sheet is higher to hold, it locks and unlocks in the 
can cleat easily.


I will try get find the pics.can't take any now...boat is put away 
for the winter.


Rob

On 2018-11-15 5:58 p.m., steve dewar via CnC-List wrote:

Robert, that is exactly what I am looking for. Any assistance would be super!
Thanks
Steve

Sent from my iPad





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Stus-List Now Fuel Tank

[robert via CnC-List]

When I took my aluminum fuel tank out, I thought about replacing it with 
a plastic tank.   I could have bought a Moeller the exact size as mine 
from a local company here, Stright Mackay, for 1/2 the cost of the 
rebuild I had done to the old tank.


While the new plastic tank was the same size as the old one, it did not 
have the five (5) holes in it to accommodate the 5 attachments or did 
not have the fittings that the plastic tank would accept. Maybe some of 
the old fittings could have been usedthe infill connector, 
definitely not.  And even if the new Moeller tank had fittings, they 
probably would not be in the exact position on the top to accept the 
hoses.unless you are going to replace all the hosesand there you 
have another many hours of labor and costs.


Now, here is where the big question comes into playsince I am a DIY 
guy, where possible, do I go to the extra effort to make the new plastic 
tank fit the 5 holes needed (fuel infill, fuel line to engine, fuel 
return line to engine, vent, fuel gauge) or pay more to have the old 
tank rebuilt.


I opted to have the bottom cut out of the old tank, a whole new bottom 
welded on and at the same time, I had the machine shop cut approx 1 inch 
from the depth of the tank to make getting back in through the lazarette 
easy.getting it out because of the fill hose nozzle was a problem.


If the old bottom lasted 33 years before leaking, the new tank bottom 
should see me out and become someone elses  problem some day.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #227
Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[robert via CnC-List]

Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a 
few pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.


Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal 
container(s)the last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more 
like a 'diluted mud'..very brown in colornot exactly sure what 
the bottom looked likethe machine shop that did the repair pressure 
washedthey told me that even after the pressure wash, they still 
wait a few days before doing the actual repair in order to wait and be 
sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an explosion/fire 
when the welding begins.


I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from 
what I observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  
And remember, the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

Chapter two,


This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes 
and red liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 
30 gallon plastic tank and new fuel lines and will install those over 
the coming winter.  This will give the boat enough range to run from 
Cape May to Block Island and should be good for another 30 plus years.





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Stus-List C&C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[robert via CnC-List]

Dwight:

I think Steve has the mainsheet set up that was the original setup on my 
32.awkward and can't be trimmed by the helsman.


You redsigned mine so now the helsman can trim the main .that, I 
think is what Steve needs to doredesign his main sheet setup.


Steve, am I making a correct assumption?  If so, we might be able to 
offer suggestions.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-14 4:59 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
On my 35 mkii i have the original traveller mounted on the bridge deck 
triple blocks for the main sheet 7:1 advantage with ratchet block and 
cleat to control. 18 inch wire between the boom and moveable blocks. 
It works great a 70 year old lady can trim in winds to 20 apparent. I 
love the setup because i can trim while at the wheel single handed or 
with crew





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Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[robert via CnC-List]

FYI.http://www.awlgrip.com/support-and-advice/topcoat-maintenance.aspx

Do not shrink wrap awlgrip!
Rob Abbott


On 2018-11-04 9:10 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
I think I read that boats that have been painted with Awlgrip should 
not have shrink wrap around the topsides.bring the plastic down to 
the toe rail.  I think the Awlgrip site addresses this.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-03 4:52 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to 
shrink-wrap Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to 
damage her paint job.


Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Stus-List Shrink-Wrapping Painted Boats

[robert via CnC-List]

I think I read that boats that have been painted with Awlgrip should not 
have shrink wrap around the topsides.bring the plastic down to the 
toe rail.  I think the Awlgrip site addresses this.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-03 4:52 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers-

Have you heard anything to the effect that painted boats shouldn’t be 
shrink-wrapped because that might cause blistering?  I’d like to shrink-wrap 
Grenadine this winter, but obviously wouldn’t want to damage her paint job.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[robert via CnC-List]

I use NAPA's 1064 Gold Oil Filter on my Yanmar..any comments on the 
quality of this filter?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-03 2:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote:

I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store.



Doug Mountjoy
Sv Rebecca Leah
LH39
Port Orchard YC wa.


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Stus-List Interior varnish issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike:
In my case, in order to access the dark stained veneer, I had to remove 
6 coats of Ultimate Soleused a paint stripper in the affected taped 
off area(s).


I had dark stain in my teak and holy floor boards from water intrusion 
on the 'sides'.genius here painted the bottom of the floor boards 
with West System resin (3 -4 coats) but forgot the sides on two edges of 
2 of my floor boardsresult over 10 years, water got in the sides 
andI didn't like the lookI researched and as another here said, 
treat area with oxalic acidI couldn't source any here (sure it's 
around but I gave up looking) so mixed a litre of warm water,  3 
tablespoons of TSP and 4 ounces of liquid ammonia, soaked the affected 
area for a few minutes and then gently rubbed with fine steel wool (000 
Grade).let dry a while and repeated process a few times.    Most of 
my stain came out.  Not perfect but don't overlook good!


When I bought the boat, the dinette table, which is teak veneer 
finished, had a big dark water stain which I totally removed by the same 
method.  Now turned out to be a perfect job!


Flush the affected area with water after each application and rubbing 
with steel wool to get a fresh start on the next treatment if you choose 
to do this.probably the same process if you can find oxalic acid.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-11-01 2:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


The interior of Persistence has a lot of varnished teak and the finish 
has generally held up very well in the 31 years since it was applied 
in 1987.  However we are beginning to notice a few spots that may or 
may not have been due to water damage at a some point


In one location there is a black stain in the wood under the varnish.  
I have sanded the surface finish away and the black goes into the wood 
some. This is a marine ply teak section so is likely a thin veneer so 
sanding through this surface stain is not really an option.  I am 
thinking of using something like mineral spirits and have read also 
that toothpaste and baking soda scrubbed with a toothbrush may help.  
This stain is obviously from past water intrusion.  The varnish looked 
good but the stain was on underlying teak.


A second issue we are noting in several areas is a chalky yellowing of 
the varnish in small patchy sections.  Am suspecting this may also be 
due to water damage and it appears to be a discoloration of the 
varnish more than the underlying teak veneer.  Initial light sanding 
removed a lot of this but after applying a thinned coat of varnish it 
is apparent that more prep work is or was needed.  Have been 
considering continued light sanding, also perhaps paint thinner and 
fine steel wool or even the above mentioned toothpaste and baking soda 
scrub.  What is the collective wisdom on the cause of this type of 
varnish failure (water?) and the best way to get to bare wood without 
damaging the underlying thin veneer?


Although  this is a Carol Marine built boat rather than built by C&C I 
am confident many on this list have encountered these issues and come 
up with excellent ideas for the best results


Thanks

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

… and for the C&C connection …

Former family boats

1974 Paceship P23 (C&C designed)

1981 C&C 36

1979 Niagara 26 (Hinterhoeller designed and built)



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Stus-List Car Paint

[robert via CnC-List]

Approx. 12 years ago, a club member took his Kirby 25 to an auto paint 
shopthey painted the boat a 'dark green', a GMC truck color auto 
paint. sprayed several coats, nice paint job.


We wondered how it would hold up.  It still looks quite good after 
seasonal exposure to the elements.


I will admit I was quite surprised since I didn't initially think it 
would last several seasons without cracking, splitting, bumbling, etc.  
I thought the maybe any flexing of the hull would distort the paint.   
It didn't as the paint shop understood what they were doing and added 
the sufficient paint additive used to paint plastic bumpers and fenders 
that naturally flex without the paint cracking.

FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-01 12:17 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List wrote:
Great paint job. I had wondered in the past would car paint to the 
job? it last for decades without fading and can be spot fixed. Any 
thoughts?


Christian Planton
Peer Gynt
C&C 34 1980
Saugatuck, CT





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Stus-List PYI shaft seal

[robert via CnC-List]

A few years back, a boat at our club with a drip less shaft seal also 
had a sudden and serious failure causing extensive flooding inside the 
boat before it got hauled.  It happened within an hour after the boat 
was launched in the Spring.   Someone noticed the boat's bow "boot 
strip" was below its waterline and since the boat was 'open', club 
members got aboard and began pumping..both the electric bilge pump 
and the manual cockpit pump could not keep upa third portable 
electric pump came from somewhere (don't know its origin) but it helped 
to keep the boat afloat until the yard staff retrieved its cradle to 
haul the boat.


What little water that comes into my bilge with a conventional stuffing 
box is not a big inconvenience compared to the possibility of a 
catastrophic and sudden failure of a drip less shaft seal.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-10-20 8:41 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

I don't know if this is brand-specific, or which brands were involved, but 
while I had my boat hauled out and was in the process of making a decision on 
what to do about the packing gland on my boat, 2 boats in the same marina had 
serious leaks due to broken graphite parts in their dripless packings. One of 
them sank and the other managed to get hauled out in time. I did not know that 
such a catastrophic and sudden failure mode even existed up til then. No vendor 
or manufacturer's literature that I had seen even mentioned such a possibility. 
How such an event could be handled at sea I did not know. Anyway, it freaked me 
out and I decided to install a new conventional packing gland instead.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII - Ontario
C&C36 - Florida


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Stus-List Who knew tracking down Yanmar coolant would be so difficult?

[robert via CnC-List]

I have been using Prestone concentrated anti-freeze (I mix 50% - 50% 
with distilled water in the coolant) for years in my Yanmar 2 GMF, both 
as a coolant and to winterize.no problem that I have occurred.FWIW.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-10-17 2:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

As a result of a concern about tracking down a potential antifreeze 
leak (which I haven't done yet), I wanted to confirm the coolant 
type.  There is no mention as to specific types either in my 3JH2E 
operating or service manuals.  Yes, I could go (way) out of my way to 
get Yanmar branded coolant, but let's face it - it is not only way 
more expensive, its available almost exclusively at Yanmar dealers, 
and the nearest one to me is 15 miles away and isn't open on Saturdays 
or Sundays.  And of course, what happens if you need more when you're 
out cruising?


In doing research, I found the following bulletin, published by Mack 
Boring: 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=2ahUKEwizh_zu8Y3eAhWOy1MKHSFlD3cQFjADegQIBxAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fldmarineservice.com%2Ffiles%2Fyanmar_bulletins.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3WK3R6vfJyTHOt5yGzFMDZ


In the section about coolants, it recommends:

Texaco Long Life Coolant, numbers 7991 and 7998.  Unfortunately, one 
really can't find either product on the web, so I can't seem to find 
if it was orange (DEXCOOL) or red for diesels, or for that matter if 
it was ethylene glycol or propylene glycol based.


Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant, number 7994.  Per this 
link, 7994 is DEX-COOL, but is ethylene glycol based. 
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwij_o2I843eAhWK0FMKHXc5AfMQFjAAegQICxAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rialtainfo.com%2Fvw%2Fvw_images%2Fradiator_%26_coolant.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3ZxHApMqFHHgB-qcUwOYWa 



Dex-Cool Long Life Coolant, which at least at the time of introduction 
was propylene glycol based and is Organic Acid Technology (OAT) thus 
meaning less toxic.  Funny thing is, Dex-Cool was not even introduced 
until a year after my boat was built (1995) and at the time, was only 
being used in GM cars.


Prestone Extended Life Coolant, product code AF888.  Per the attached, 
guess what, it's Dex-Cool. 
https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/antifreeze/prestone-antifreeze-engine-coolant/87934_0_0. 
It is ethylene glycol based, but Prestone says it is OAT, which would 
seem to conflict with what I can find about traditional Dex-Cool.


Not entirely satisfied, I wanted to see what a Yanmar official 
publication recommended.  In a 2009 JH Series Operation Manual, it 
recommends Texaco 7997 and 7998 (same as above).  It also recommends 
Havoline 7994, as above.  It however says nothing about Dex-Cool or 
Prestone AF888.  I get similar results in a 3JH4E manual.


Then, of course, I was faced with the fact that while I used Prestone 
AF888 when I flushed and replaced my coolant, I was replacing what 
appeared to be traditional green coolant (presumably old-style 
ethylene glycol).  I only now read a lot of horror stories of 
replacing green with orange Dex-Cool, saying that one can never flush 
out the system sufficiently to keep the orange coolant from gelling to 
the point the engine overheats.


So, at this point I have no real idea what to thing other than the 
Prestone AF888 I used should be OK as long as it doesn't a).  Turn 
color  B) Gel up and c) My engine temperature stays OK.


Sigh...

Does anyone else here have anything more authoritative?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Stus-List Batteries LiFe vs Lipo

[robert via CnC-List]

Matthew, like you I have lead cell batteries, Group 27's.pretty much 
the same usagethey are Great Northern, I think made in Hamilton, 
Ontario, Canada.


The batteries are dated 04/2009, so I have had them now ten (10) sailing 
seasonsand they stay on the boat here over the winter layup.


Probably time to get new ones.and probably the only reason they have 
lasted this long is because I am not depleting them significantly and 
recharging.


But for the price and compatibility with my boat, I will stay with lead 
acid.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-10-17 12:31 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
FWIW, after debating the AGM vs. lead acid battery issue, I opted for 
the old fashioned lead acid.  I have two deep cycle batteries for the 
house, and one starting battery for the engine.  I’m not set up for 
cruising (much), so I don’t run a lot of electronics.  I do have an 
icebox refrigerator that runs constantly, but I’m plugged in at the 
dock most of the time.  As a result, my batteries are almost always 
fully charged.  Away from the dock, my instruments do not draw much, 
and I replaced most of the lights with LEDs, so power consumption is 
relatively low even at night.  In my situation, the lead acid 
batteries serve me well and are considerably less expensive.
I understand there are only two lead acid battery manufacturers in the 
States, so the brand probably does not matter much.  I believe mine 
are Deka.

*From:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2018 9:48 AM
*To:* Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Danny Haughey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Lithium Batteries LiFe vs Lipo

After reading all of this, for my use, the less expensive lead acid 
batteries seems the right choice and then use the savings for a good 
solar install (this is really an after the fact justification because 
I already bought the solar system!).  We are weekenders with a week 
out 2 or 3 times per season.  I was wondering what I would do for 
batteries next time around and this discussion has really helped.  My 
boat has room for 3-group 27 house batteries under the V-Berth and a 
starting battery under the cockpit.  Currently the house batteries are 
"dual purpose"  (whatever that means) 85ah each.  I'll go to some good 
deep cycle batteries next.  I think I can get some more amp hours and 
keep them topped up with a 400watt solar array.  My goal is to be able 
to run the refrigerator and autopilot I'm about to install.  I'll keep 
watching this thread but, if anyone has some advice on a good lead 
acid deep cycle choice, I'd love to hear it!


Danny

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Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[robert via CnC-List]

On 2018-10-15 2:29 PM, Sid via CnC-List wrote:
"I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the 
water in the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out."


The two should be totally unrelatedyour bilge pump is or should be 
separate from the cockpit 'scuppers' or 'drains'.check to see that 
all those hoses are clear to allow water to move through them freely.

"1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?"
If your mast is keel stepped, rain water will find its way down the 
mast.  Are there any other obvious places (hatches, deck fittings, 
windows, etc) where there could be leaking?


"2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?"
Cockpit water should leave the boat through scupper hoses connected to 
thru hulls which usually have shut off valves.
"3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump 
out the water?"
In the bilge, if, your bilge is big enough to accept one and/or you can 
find one to fit your bilge.  Most have a float, when water begins to 
fill the bilge, will start the motor and pump out the water.

"4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?"
A challenge to find a path ( hose to overboard) for the water to travel 
from the bilge pump overboardI don't know the 24 
'intimately'..maybe a another 24 owner can chime in here that 
already has been done this road.
I installed a pump in the bilge and connected it via hose and a Y joint 
into the head shower discharge which exits the forward starboard side 
just below the toe rail.
"5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am 
assuming no the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.'
Answered before, no.cockpit water should never intentionally go to 
the bilge.  You are assuming wrong, the scupper hoses should be 
exiting the hull down low.  If connected properly, your cockpit port 
scupper hose should exit on the starboard side and the cockpit starboard 
scupper exit on the port side.  When the boat is heeled, they shouldn't 
fill up


Hope this is helpful.

ROb Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Painting pedestal

[robert via CnC-List]

Dittopainted mine about 10 years ago with a Rustoleum flat 
blackused a very fine foam roller for most of the jobsmall brush 
to fitone coat and is still looking fine.  And a fraction of the 
cost of the marine graded stuff.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-10-12 1:44 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
I also used Rustoleum for an aluminum pedestal piece with excellent 
results.





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Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan
Glad to hear you were successfulnow that you have done it, the next 
time will be a lot less stressful.


I didn't realize I was addressing someone at the Armdale Yacht ClubI 
drive by there several times a week to my boatif I had known, I 
could have arranged to meet you and either cleaned it or guided you 
through it.   Nevertheless, it's done.  I sometimes have to take mine 
out twice a season to clear debris/growth.   This season, for some 
reason, I made it to just last week when the padwheel got stuck.  I took 
it out, cleaned it and left it out.I always have the padwheel out 
when the boat is hauled and/or launched..don't want the padwheel 
touching any part of my cradlethey are very fragile and it doesn't 
take much to damage them.


One other thing, do not lubricate it with anythingsometimes I 
initially clean mine with WD-40 and a Q-tip but always thoroughly rinse 
the WD-40 with a liquid detergent  and hot water.  The lubrication, no 
matter what kind, does not work well in salt waterit will slowly gum 
up making it even more difficult  for the wheel to spin.


I think I can see your boat from the Purcell's Cove Roadare you 
docked in the club's back cove?


Regards
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S


On 2018-10-11 10:29 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote:
I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 
5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby 
muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working 
and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips!


Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS







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Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:
One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit 
down into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be 
differentbut on mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have 
to be lined up to drop into their respective slots on the thru 
hullone obvious reason for this is to ensure you install the 
padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not to a side 
angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if 
they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can 
now longer turn the plug.


But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when 
the padwheel is clean of any debris.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S





On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


 or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and
replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky
business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

WISH ME LUCK!

Dan




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Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:

The first time I pulled the transducer/padwheel, it was a unnervingI 
hadn't even removed one while on the hard let alone in 36' of water.   
Have your factory 'blank' in one hand (and I even now carry a wooden 
plug just in case), pull up, a gush of water, insert the blank/plug 
securely, I repeat securely.


Do the same when replacing the transducer/padwheelit gets less 
stressful after the first time. I have it down now to where I get maybe 
half a quart/litre of saltwater per pull. that water drains into my 
bilge so it really doesn't matter to me.


My padwheel has stopped spinning while sailingI've pulled it under 
sail to clear the debris preventing it to spin.   When I pull it, I can 
spin it with a finger, drop it and quickly go to the cockpit to see if 
there is any speed showing on the panelusually I get there around 2 
knots and watch it drop back to 0.00 knots.


Or get someone around you that has done it before and watch closely to 
see how easy it is.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-10-11 11:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA 
product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and 
they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be 
formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the 
padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the 
underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to 
move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I 
gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in 
the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the 
bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with 
the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys 
seem to think it's a breeze...


WISH ME LUCK!

Dan




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Stus-List padwheel issues

[robert via CnC-List]

Dan:

If I understand you correctly, your speed instrument (digital) is not 
showing even a "0.00" when your turn it on.  If that is the case, your 
issue is probably not the padwheel.    My old Signet knot meter (34 
years) reads 0.00 when the padwheel is not spinningit reads 0.00 as 
soon as I turn on the instrument.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip
and there's no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and
gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy
and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183
sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even
have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all)
I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally
give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"?

Dan



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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[robert via CnC-List]

Don

AZURA's hull # is '277'.club is the 'RNSYS'.years sailing '55 years'

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 277
RNSYS
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-10-04 8:06 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
This is an update to the spread sheet (attached) from the replies to 
Jack's request, in which I have added emails addresses.


Please let me know by email, if you want to make corrections to the list.

Best regards,

Don Kern
Fireball - 12708
1974 C&C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI 02809



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Stus-List wet rudder on 1974 Mk II 27'

[robert via CnC-List]

Chris:

Without me actually seeing the overall condition rudder, it is 
difficult, if not impossible, to provide you with advice on it. From 
your description, the rudder has cracks that required repairsnow how 
much water is in the rudder and has it negatively 
affected/rusted/corroded the metal inside.


If you want to be really sure about the rudder, engage someone that can 
advise you professionally.


My boat is a 1984it spent it's first 22 years in Lake Michigan 
.the original owner I bought it from had its rudder rebuilt because 
it rusted inside the rust got detected when the rudder got water in 
it (probably from the top of the rudder post, common issue) and froze 
over the winter cracking the rudder open.owner decided on a rebuild 
rather than a fix.good thing if not for him, for me!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax< N.S.



On 2018-10-04 9:35 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:

Hey folks!

Recently took a three hour trip up the coast to look at a 1974 C&C 
MkII 27'. She is is reasonable condition and priced accordingly. Some 
of the issues are minor, a few of concern and I will ask your advice 
and opinion on those.


She has core issues, but really was remarkable dry throughout. Bow 
pulpit stanchions an core from the tip of the bow to roughly 2' back 
will need to be re-cored and re-bedded...not a big deal as I have done 
much of this over the past 30 years.


The leading edge of the keel has some dings and the port side shows 
some indication of the faring material coming away from the keel joint 
(as far as I could tell), Inspection of the keel joints showed all is 
well (and my god there is no bilge on this boat!!!).  I'm thinking 
grinding and chipping it out, new faring material, barrier 
coat...etc... not too bad?


Her winches (Barstow) are a but sluggish and it feels like a lot of 
drag on them. Never have had to service winches before but have heard 
it can be a nightmare?? Just another consideration. Sail inventory and 
electronics, running lights and cabin lights all in good order. 
chainplates, toerail...all good!


The real bone of contention I suppose it the rudder. There is a 
noticeable crack at the top of the rudder which needs repair. The 
rudder is wet and there are something cracks on the bottom trailing 
edge that would need mending. Does this need a rebuild or can I get 
away with drilling, drying out, thickened epoxy resin in the holes and 
call it good? Is this a deal breaker?


Any suggestions about the rudder. I would hate to have to remove it 
and rebuild but I could if I had to.


Chris


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Stus-List Ventilation -vetus?

[robert via CnC-List]

AZURA came with a Nicro solar vent in the forward hatch (above the 
V-berth)it is also powered by a rechargeable C cell battery which 
runs the fan all nightworks great to keep the air in the boat 
circulating .wouldn't be without one.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-09-30 1:30 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:

Have been contemplating better ventilating my 33-2.
One option is to add a day and night vent in either cabin or both.
Another is to do as the CS36 does, and that is to add a cowl vent to the anchor 
locker hatch and a grill/air passage between the locker and the foot of the 
v-berth.  (Anchor locker functions as a dorade box, plus you get some air 
movement in the anchor locker)
All the recent talk of lost cowl vents makes me think that dome vents would be 
preferred.
Any thoughts on cabin ventilation?
Any experience with latest nicro/Marino or vetus UFO vents, solar or passive?
Many thanks!
Dave - windstar 33-2


Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List C&c 34 Mast

[robert via CnC-List]

Rob

Your mast and rigging will probably weigh between 300 to 400 
lbs..depending on the size of the men doing the lift, you will need 
a minimum of 4 to do it safely.


Just make sure if it is only 4, put the tallest and strongest on the 
bottom end of the mast...it will be heavier.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rob Ball via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2018 2:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rob Ball
Subject: Stus-List C&c 34 Mast

I'm a new owner and gearing up for lift out next month.
When they drop the mast (with complete rigging), how many hundred people will 
it take to carry it to the back of the lot . . . . . ?
Any idea how many pounds it might weigh ?
Cheers,   Rob Ball,  C&C 34 'Escapade'





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Stus-List Rob Ball Drawing of C&C 30 MK I?

[robert via CnC-List]

Ken:

Thank you for the correctionI said I was no C&C authority.did 
some homework after my incorrect post.Rob Ball became C&C's Chief 
Designer in 1973 according to the Photo Album site.


Rob

On 2018-09-27 10:40 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:


Robert H. Perry Interviews Rob Ball - *C&C Yachts, Chief of Design.* *
*

*Quote: **http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/ballinterview.htm*

*Rob Ball:* I started working part time in 1966 and I started full 
time in 1969. We had four people then, one of the four being a summer 
student.



On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 at 10:36, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Randy:

I shouldn't but in here because I am no authority on the C&C
history but I doubt the 'initials in the Drawn block' for your C&C
30 MK I are those of Rob Ball as the 'designer'..I believe
George Cuthbertson designed 30 MK I.   I think Rob Ball joined the
C&C company in the early 1980's, maybe 1983.Rob can correct me
if I am wrong.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-09-26 5:08 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Rob,

Since we’re discussing the 30 MK I on the mail list today, I
thought I’d share a blast from the past - a drawing of the sail
plan for the 24’9” LWL Auxiliary Sloop (i.e. the 30 MK I), dated
Dec. 22, 1970.  See
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LNnF3ohhpfxYPndc528aTh6uvJHhPOel.
Are those your initials in the Drawn By block?

This drawing came in the records with my boat, 30 MK I hull #7
(HIN 30007972).  A4, tiller steering, boom-end sheeting to
traveler on transom - love the cockpit room.  Her first owner was
Bob Andrews of Traverse City, MI, who raced her in the Mac (the
Chicago Yacht Club Race to Mackinac).  She spent her first 40
years in Traverse City under four different owners, then moved to
Colorado in 2012.  I am her sixth owner and have raced her weekly
for three years at my local club.  At age 46 she’s still
competitive and sharp-looking and a lot of fun.

Thank you for the 30 MK I.  I love that boat.  I’ve had her up to
7.6 knots on GPS, and I’ve had her out in gale-force winds
multiple times.  She’s stiff and stable as hell, and I love
that.  If you’re interested, there are photos of my boat
including various projects at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.

Thanks Again,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


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Stus-List Rob Ball Drawing of C&C 30 MK I?

[robert via CnC-List]

Randy:

I shouldn't but in here because I am no authority on the C&C history but 
I doubt the 'initials in the Drawn block' for your C&C 30 MK I are those 
of Rob Ball as the 'designer'..I believe George Cuthbertson designed 
30 MK I.   I think Rob Ball joined the C&C company in the early 1980's, 
maybe 1983.Rob can correct me if I am wrong.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-09-26 5:08 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Rob,

Since we’re discussing the 30 MK I on the mail list today, I thought 
I’d share a blast from the past - a drawing of the sail plan for the 
24’9” LWL Auxiliary Sloop (i.e. the 30 MK I), dated Dec. 22, 1970. 
 See 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LNnF3ohhpfxYPndc528aTh6uvJHhPOel. 
Are those your initials in the Drawn By block?


This drawing came in the records with my boat, 30 MK I hull #7 (HIN 
30007972).  A4, tiller steering, boom-end sheeting to traveler on 
transom - love the cockpit room.  Her first owner was Bob Andrews of 
Traverse City, MI, who raced her in the Mac (the Chicago Yacht Club 
Race to Mackinac).  She spent her first 40 years in Traverse City 
under four different owners, then moved to Colorado in 2012.  I am her 
sixth owner and have raced her weekly for three years at my local 
club.  At age 46 she’s still competitive and sharp-looking and a lot 
of fun.


Thank you for the 30 MK I.  I love that boat.  I’ve had her up to 7.6 
knots on GPS, and I’ve had her out in gale-force winds multiple times. 
 She’s stiff and stable as hell, and I love that.  If you’re 
interested, there are photos of my boat including various projects at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.


Thanks Again,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


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Stus-List C&C long time question

[robert via CnC-List]

Jack:

Hope you are going to keep score.I am also the second owner of a 
1984 C&C 32...have had AZURA since 200612 years now and plan to keep 
her for many more.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-09-27 9:50 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Al,

I have a question for the list.

How many of you have owned your current C&C yacht for 5 years or longer.

FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the 
second owners.



Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY - US12788
1974 C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA


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Stus-List 1978 C&C 26

[robert via CnC-List]

Your upper limit $$$ budget may restrict your choice if you are in a 
hurry to buy a boatother wise take your time and look around for 
what your budget may affordin the Fall of 2005, I had sold a boat 
and had all Winter to look and compareI was looking for C&C 30 MK I 
but didn't find one that wasn't a 'boat project'and I didn't want a 
boat projectmonths later in Sring 2006, I found a 1984 C&C 32, one 
owner, professionally maintained in Racine, Wisconsin, Lake Michigan 
..a long way from Halifax, N.S.  Purchase price in USD, taxes at 
boarder crossing back to Canada, and trucking costs were about the same 
as the C&C 30's available then.


And I am more than pleased that I got a Rob Ball designed C&C 
32.beautiful boat, well layed out topside and below, sails very 
wellI have no complaints with the 32 for what I use it for.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-09-26 3:22 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List wrote:


As mentioned, the C&C 30 is the stiffest boat we ever did, and there 
are enough of them around, that there are good prices . . .


AND, it has standing headroom – the 26 – not so much . . . . .

Cheers,

/Rob Ball/
Chief Design Engineer Tel 508-995-9711

http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif

Edson International

Email:r...@edsonintl.com  Edson - Home 





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Stus-List C&C 38 For Sale

[robert via CnC-List]

No affiliation with this boat sale but I do confess to knowing about the 
boatand someone is going to get a great boat for $20K CDN .362 
hours on the new engine for exampleFYI



http://www.sunnybrookyachts.com/boats-for-sale/1976-c-c-38-chester-nova-scotia-canada-6598268/

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Stus-List Love tap while racing or "rough start"

[robert via CnC-List]

Interesting footagebig fleet at the start but a small/short start 
line for such a large fleet...that aside.the boat over the line 
early was clearly in the wrong and never should have turned back into 
the fleet on the starting line.where I have raced, when you cross 
before the start, you first and foremost keep clear of all the other 
starting boats and when the opportunity arises and you can turn back to 
round either / or the Committee boat or the pin side and then come back out.


Lucky for the boats and fleet it was a light wind or a lot of other 
collisions might have occurred.


Lessondon't go racing if you don't know the rules.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax< N.S.

On 2018-09-22 1:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
All this discussion on rules while NOT racing. Here's an incident from 
last Wednesday night's race in New Orleans.  How NOT to start a race.  
Enjoy.


https://youtu.be/AIu8mXQOs-g

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

Refinished my table, 1984, it was teak veneertoo thin to sand 
without consequencestook the table out of the boat...soaked it 
(literally poured on top) with and combination of TSP and white vinegar, 
let set for 10 minutes and removed with  steel woolrinsed with 
water (hose) big time and let dry for a few days.


Bought a tung oil at Lee Valleygot a perfect color match first 
timecould not have got a more better finish.


Can send a pic off list if you want to see the finished table.sorry 
but don't have a before pic but trust me, it wasn't prettylooked 
like a big water stain on the table, all gone now.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-09-24 4:47 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:

Hello,

I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this 
winter.  Anybody refinish one?


Thanks in advance.

*David F. Risch, J. D.*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *


 
	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
 





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Stus-List : Emergency Tiller Question

[robert via CnC-List]

AZURA's e-tiller has a similar set up as DennisI have practiced 
it...just in case...I have a wrench tapped to the e-tiller but I also 
have it set so that when I drop it on the sole connection behind the 
binnacle, it will be drop on and be tight/firmif I want it more 
secure for any reason, e.g. big seas, I have the small wrench there 
.using an e-tiller doesn't need me to go looking for a 
wrenchespecially if I am alone.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-09-24 5:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Touche's e-tiller has a bolt to tighten once you put it on the end of 
the rudder.


Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Wrench? What for?

Joe

Coquina 35-1

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C.
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, September 24, 2018 3:47 PM
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Question

Um, no.

Dry fit it years ago when I first bought the boat.  Been stored on
clips in the starboard lazarette with an appropriately sized
wrench strapped to it ever since.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 2:14 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Rudder talk got me wondering – does anyone ever sail with
their tiller?

The 35 MK I is one of the very few wheel steered boats where
the emergency tiller is actually a viable way to steer the
boat. I used to use it to steer from under the dodger in the
rain until I got an autopilot. It is a bit awkward, it should
be about 1 foot longer and hinged, but beats the heck out of
most I have seen.

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Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[robert via CnC-List]

Brian:

J had a new bottom welded to my fuel tank last Fallsame issue as 
yours...pin hole leaks.  I cut some old battens for the tank to rest on.


The tank is held down by two (2) metal straps, approx. 1 1/2 inches 
wide, several feet long with holes in the straps to put your screws 
and/or nuts/bolts.   The back of the strap(s) is bolted to the aft 
bulkhead, comes up over the back of the tank and down the front and 
bolted to the front stringer.  The tank can't move side to side either 
as it fits into its wooden deck it sits on.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-09-14 1:10 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List wrote:


A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank 
– the tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to 
start leaking and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL 
tank and have a couple of questions about installing it:


The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the 
ends of 2 stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly 
tightly] by plywood.  This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or 
less in place, which wore on the two end points of the stringers, and 
that is where corrosion developed and the leak occurred.  A while back 
someone (Rick Brass (?) who is probably a little busy with Florence at 
the moment) recommended glassing in old battens under the tank to 
reduce the opportunity for moisture to collect and corrosion to 
occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.  Is there a consensus 
on how to best support a fuel tank?


The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the 
leak.  How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not 
much that looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like 
those that come with this from Defender:


https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down-kit&path=-1|311|2349059|2349070&id=4201879 
 



And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an 
acceptable way to restrain the tank?


Any suggestions?

TIA,

Brian



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Stus-List removing soft anti fouling

[robert via CnC-List]

 Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote: "...would like to remove it myself 
from a 29-2. there are probably 30 years of paint on it. what is the 
best method?


Have someone else to remove it is the best method I could 
recommend.I had mine 'dry ice blasted'  .took approx 4 to 5 
hours.took 22 years of Interlux and VC 17 down to the white gelcoat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Head Problems

[robert via CnC-List]

Last season, my original Jabsco head pump started leaking sea water back 
into the head on a port tackno big deal but a 'pebble in my 
shoe'priced a repair kit or a new Jabsco Twist & Lock Pump.four 
(4) screws/bolts and a few hoses to complete the change .why rebuild 
when a whole new and better pump costs about $10 more and is way easier 
to install.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[robert via CnC-List]

Charlie:

There is a another way to have the bottom paint removed.it is called 
'dry ice blasting'.it is much cleaner and safer than soda blasting.


When I bought my boat in 2006, I had the bottom 'dry ice 
blasted'..took the contractor approx. 4 hours.removed 22 years 
of Interlux and VC 17 right down to the 'white gel coat' without any 
damage, pitting etc to the gel coat.   Keel and rudder were cleaned as well.


The old antifouling paint just fell to the asphalt like 'course 
pepper'.I used a shop vac to clean it up.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry-ice_blasting

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=dry+ice+blasting&view=detail&mid=C0396F2E2CC670FEFE5BC0396F2E2CC670FEFE5B&FORM=VIRE

It is worth investigating.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32-84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-08-08 10:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its 
starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as 
both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).
Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with 
it (or stay with the sanding method).

Thanks,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com


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Stus-List Docking seamanship

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

There is a gadget, not sure what the correct name is, maybe called a 
'line pole'...you simply place the outer loop on it and reach down 
on drop your line on the pier cleat.


I have one but never use it.I just step off the boat through my 
starboard gate where I have a line with a 'snubber' on it with the outer 
end with a loop hanging on the top lifeline at the gate and the inboard 
end loop around my primary winch.


If I didn't want to leave the cockpit, I would use the 'line pole' but 
that is one more thing to take out and put away, although it could stay 
on the coach roof resting on the handrail.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-08-08 6:25 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I was over at the boat yesterday and explored several.  The one that 
looks most promising was suggested by several listers, the continuous 
line from forward to the cockpit.  I attached a line to the toerail 
and brought it outside the lifelines back to the primary winch.  I 
configured it such that, when dropped on the pier's outermost cleat, 
it will stop the boat and keep the stern from swinging away from the 
pier. Didn't actually try it but I am optimistic.


The challenge will be dropping it on the cleat if single handing.  
It's a floating pier and the cleat is a couple feet below the toe rail.


BTW, I will attach the line to the toe rail with a soft shackle.  That 
will prevent damage to the toe rail anodizing as well as minimize 
damage to the dock line.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving
Touche'.  Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly
protected bayou, has both outboard and midships pilings on either
side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently back Touche'
in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings. Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole
different scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier
which extends to just short of full boat length.  Second, it is a
double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP
37. Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view
issues. Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow
will fall off towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a
scenic bayou is preferable to looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which
pulls the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat
dramatically to port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the
movement to port.  The wind and prop walk both working against the
boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success. 
The best the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a
slight upwind angle to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line
attached a bit forward of midships, have crew leap off the boat
and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the finger pier to
stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern
line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through this
process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out
of the steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring
line, jumping back on the boat, warping the stern in and then
securing the stern line by myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[robert via CnC-List]

Marek,

Your are absolutely correctthe positioning of the cleat in the right 
place is criticalwhen I bought my boat, it came with the SS toe rail 
cleatsthe first year, I thought they were a bit aft of mid ship to 
be correct but I learned after being at the pier with on spring line on 
them and doing an oil change and running the engine after, in gear 
(1,200 to 1,400 RPM's) that the boat just lay up against the 
pier/fenders and seemed perfectly balanced.  In 13 seasons, I have not 
moved themwhy would I?


If anyone didn't like taking his boat in and out of a slip, single 
handed most times, it was me.  I was initially more concerned about 
docking alone than leaving.   A season and a half later, I am 
wiser.docking I have confidence in.leaving with the wrong wind, 
blowing me into the big aircraft carrier next to me (Nonsuch 36) and I 
only have approx.3 feet between our boats requires more thought and 
seamanship.


Know your limitations, and your boat's limitations.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Watching videos, reading, etc is all good, however, you have to do it to 
get your confidence


On 2018-08-02 3:16 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


If you have the mid-ship cleat in the right place, the forward 
pressure by the motor would make the boat to cling to the finger. It 
is a question of positioning the cleat in the right place. With the 
toe rail that is standard on most of the C&C, this is not an issue, 
because you can move the attachment point, almost as you wish (I don’t 
have the toe rail with holes in it on my boat, so this does not work 
so well).


Probably the best is to experiment. If the cleat is too far aft, you 
risk that the bow would swing out; if it is too far forward, you risk 
that the stern would not want to stay by the finger.


Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Jeremy 
Ralph via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, August 2, 2018 11:48
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeremy Ralph 
*Subject:* Stus-List Docking seamanship

I use the midship SS toe rail cleat without issue.

With just a spring line decelerating the boat, how do you stop the bow 
from swinging into the finger and the stern from swinging out?  This 
is the reason I have a stern/spring line combo for my setup.  
Tightening the stern line from the cockpit (or dock) once the spring 
is loaded stops that.


-- Forwarded message --
From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 09:36:58 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship

Dennis:

One guy at our club single hands his J120 regularly.he installed a 
deck cleat about mid shiphe approaches the finger pier at approx. 
1 to 2 knts, steps off the boat as the starboard gate meets the pier, 
picks up his spring line which has a 'snubber' and attaches to the mid 
ship cleatif he wind is strong to blow him off the pier, he leaves 
the engine in gear at idle speed and the boat just lays up against the 
pier.  Like you, he has little room for forward movement once the 
spring line is attached.    The big Nonsuch 36 next to me does the 
same thing.


Another member has a 'line catcher' at the end of his pier where he 
hangs his spring line when he leaves.   On approach, he either reaches 
out or uses a pole to grab the spring line and attaches to his mid 
ship deck cleatonce attached and the boat comes to a stop leaving 
the engine in gear at idle speed, he gets off the boat and attaches 
his lines.  He doesn't step off his boat to attach the spring line as 
there is too much freeboard and he is not comfortable making a jump to 
the pier from that height.it's a big boat, centre cockpit and no 
one is going to 'man handle' it the way we can with our C&C's


My method, earlier described, is similar however I use my main winch 
because I don't have a mid ship deck cleat.I have one of those SS 
toe rail cleats which I don't think was designed to stop the forward 
movement of the boat, at least I am not going to experiment to find out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32-84
Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Docking seamanship

[robert via CnC-List]

If your spring line is properly/strategically located mid-ship, in some 
cases/boats it works best a bit aft from midship of the boat with enough 
forward motion to keep the boat balanced when it slides in against the 
pier.


James you are correct, if the spring line is where it works best 
(sometimes trial and error at the dock with the engine in forward idles 
gear, first, you can find the 'sweet sport where she just lays up 
against the pier/fenders), leave the boat in forward idle and/or what I 
do is always approach at 2 knts or less, turn the wheel to bring my 
starboard gate and stern to the pier and step off.


As soon as I drop my 'snubber spring line' on the aft end pier cleat 
drawing the boat into the slip because of its forward motion, I have my 
stern line hanging over the top life line which I just take and drop 
over the top of the snubber spring line (I'll remove that later) after I 
attach, depending on the conditions, maybe my bow line next, maybe a 
spring line, depends on what is happening to the boat.   As I said 
earlier, I take both my stern line and bow lines with me, the bow line 
is I think 20 feet, and when I leave the dock I bring it back to my SS 
toe rail cleat and tie it to it where it stays outside the stantions on 
the toe rail.very handy when grab on the pier you have a lot of 
control of your boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C  32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-08-02 1:07 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List wrote:
Leave the engine in forward hard over. That will counter the spring 
line pulling the stern in. It’s similar to heaving to at sea.


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 2, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



I use the midship SS toe rail cleat without issue.

With just a spring line decelerating the boat, how do you stop the 
bow from swinging into the finger and the stern from swinging out?  
This is the reason I have a stern/spring line combo for my setup.  
Tightening the stern line from the cockpit (or dock) once the spring 
is loaded stops that.


-- Forwarded message --
From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 09:36:58 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship
Dennis:

One guy at our club single hands his J120 regularly.he installed 
a deck cleat about mid shiphe approaches the finger pier at 
approx. 1 to 2 knts, steps off the boat as the starboard gate meets 
the pier, picks up his spring line which has a 'snubber' and attaches 
to the mid ship cleatif he wind is strong to blow him off the 
pier, he leaves the engine in gear at idle speed and the boat just 
lays up against the pier.  Like you, he has little room for forward 
movement once the spring line is attached. The big Nonsuch 36 next to 
me does the same thing.


Another member has a 'line catcher' at the end of his pier where he 
hangs his spring line when he leaves.   On approach, he either 
reaches out or uses a pole to grab the spring line and attaches to 
his mid ship deck cleatonce attached and the boat comes to a stop 
leaving the engine in gear at idle speed, he gets off the boat and 
attaches his lines.  He doesn't step off his boat to attach the 
spring line as there is too much freeboard and he is not comfortable 
making a jump to the pier from that height.it's a big boat, 
centre cockpit and no one is going to 'man handle' it the way we can 
with our C&C's


My method, earlier described, is similar however I use my main winch 
because I don't have a mid ship deck cleat.I have one of those SS 
toe rail cleats which I don't think was designed to stop the forward 
movement of the boat, at least I am not going to experiment to find out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32-84
Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Docking seamanship

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

One guy at our club single hands his J120 regularly.he installed a 
deck cleat about mid shiphe approaches the finger pier at approx. 1 
to 2 knts, steps off the boat as the starboard gate meets the pier, 
picks up his spring line which has a 'snubber' and attaches to the mid 
ship cleatif he wind is strong to blow him off the pier, he leaves 
the engine in gear at idle speed and the boat just lays up against the 
pier.  Like you, he has little room for forward movement once the spring 
line is attached.    The big Nonsuch 36 next to me does the same thing.


Another member has a 'line catcher' at the end of his pier where he 
hangs his spring line when he leaves.   On approach, he either reaches 
out or uses a pole to grab the spring line and attaches to his mid ship 
deck cleatonce attached and the boat comes to a stop leaving the 
engine in gear at idle speed, he gets off the boat and attaches his 
lines.  He doesn't step off his boat to attach the spring line as there 
is too much freeboard and he is not comfortable making a jump to the 
pier from that height.it's a big boat, centre cockpit and no one is 
going to 'man handle' it the way we can with our C&C's


My method, earlier described, is similar however I use my main winch 
because I don't have a mid ship deck cleat.I have one of those SS 
toe rail cleats which I don't think was designed to stop the forward 
movement of the boat, at least I am not going to experiment to find out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32-84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-07-31 12:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has 
both outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side 
finger pier.  I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. 
without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.


However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to 
just short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO 
pilings between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the 
prevailing wind is from the starboard side.


In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view 
issues. Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will 
fall off towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic 
bayou is preferable to looking at a working boatyard.


So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which 
pulls the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat 
dramatically to port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the 
movement to port.  The wind and prop walk both working against the 
boat sucks.


I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The 
best the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight 
upwind angle to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a 
bit forward of midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the 
spring to the outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward 
motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern in with forward 
propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern still 
tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.


Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself 
approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of 
the steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, 
jumping back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the 
stern line by myself.


Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Stus-List Docking seamanship

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:
 I spent 20 years on a mooring so I could come and go single handed 
without any stress associated with docking and/or leaving a slip. Last 
year, a slip at my club became available similar to yours in 
Pensacolabow in, starboard side finger pier with a Nonsuch 36 as my 
port neighbor...at most, 3' separating the boats when both docked.  
However, my finger is 35' and AZURA is 32' so I have a bit of leeway 
when docking. With some hesitation, I decided to give it a try.


At first, I found docking harder than leaving especially single handed.  
Now I find leaving with a starboard wind more challenging.


For docking, I rigged a line with a 3/8" snubber which I carry in a 
locker and take out just before docking and place the inboard loop over 
the starboard main winch and tuck under the lifeline(s) and bring 
outside and hang the end loop on the aft gate stantionopen the gate, 
of course, to hang the out end loop.


I approach the finger pier at approx. 1 to 1.5 knots.I find it best 
when I have headway.I have steerage.hardly ever use reverse 
unless the approach to too fastwhen the starboard gate reaches the 
pier I step off the boat.take the end loop and drop it over the 
first or outermost cleat.when the line comes tight and cushioned by 
the snubber, the boat glides to a stop without the bow touching the main 
pier.


Now, I am off the boat which is in neutral.two spring lines stay on 
the dock and attach to my SS toe rail cleat with carabinersusually 
the last lines to get attached.


I take both my bow line and stern line with me.stern line never gets 
adjustedwhen sailing it is just folded on the deck between the toe 
rail and bimini frame...it is set for the correct length and I simply 
drop the outer loop over the outermost cleat, the same one with the 
snubber which I will remove and take aboard and store.


I also take my bow line with me.when sailing, it stretches back from 
the bow outside the stantions/toe rail and I tie it to the mid-ship SS 
toe rail cleat.   The bow line becomes very useful this way as when 
docking, as I do, as soon as I drop the snubber line I walk forward and 
grab the bow line..I now have control of the boat..I can reach 
down and attach a spring line.untie my bow line and tie  the inner 
most cleat..the excess bow line I just bring back to the first 
stantion when docked.


When leaving the dock, the bow line is the last to get released and I 
bring it back to the mid ship SS toe rail cleat and tie it off there.  I 
can control the boat with it.


I also found prop walk a nuisance, especially leaving the pier as the 
boat has no momentum to gain steerage.    To address that, I have a 
short piece of rope, doubled up with a knot in the end looped in the toe 
rail just forward of the starboard gateI pull on it (parallel to 
the pier) to get the boat moving backwards.jump aboard and hit 
reversethat little bit of momentum going backwards allows the rudder 
to get some water flowing over it and you have the start of steerage.


Over the past 2 seasons, there have been a few days when the wind was 
just too much for me to attempt leaving single handed.if there was a 
person on the dock helping, no problem.


A club mate has a big centre cockpit boat that he finds difficult 
leaving the dock when the wind is blowing him off the pierhe usually 
has his wife with him but in no way could she/he man-handle this 
vessel..so here is how they do it he rigged a line on the pier 
from the two outter most cleats.put a snatch block on the pier line 
and attached another line to the snatch block...when leaving the 
pier, his wife holds the line attached to the snatch block which rolls 
along the pier line holding the boat in place..when cleared, she is 
close to the bow and drops/throws the line to the pier.   He uses a 
system similar to mine when docking.


Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-07-31 12:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has 
both outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side 
finger pier.  I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. 
without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.


However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to 
just short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO 
pilings between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the 
prevailing wind is from the starboard side.


In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view 
issues. Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will 
fall off towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic 
bayou is preferable to looking at a working boatyard.

Stus-List Coolant change in 2QM15

[robert via CnC-List]

Derek:

I have a Yanmar 2GMF.the engine has several 'drains' for the engine 
coolant which will empty by gravity.   Each drain is opened by loosening 
what looks like a 'wing nut' and each drain fitting has a small diameter 
rubber hose attached which is useful to direct the coolant into a 
container for proper disposal when opened.


Very easy job to do if you have the same setup which you should.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.




On Thu, Jul 19, 2018, 6:27 PM Tortuga via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I have a Yanmar 2QM15 with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger. I'd like to
change the coolant. Can I pump out the old?

Thanks

Derek Kennedy
SV Tortuga
C&C30 mk1, #553
Ballantyne's Cove, NS

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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[robert via CnC-List]

Ken,
Just curiouswas "john" on the K30', John Astephen from North 
Sydneyif yes, I learned to sail on Snipes with the Astephen family 
from the Northern Yacht Club there.a long time go.


Regards

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-07-18 4:30 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I've been aground a number of times but they are all pretty mundane 
stories.  Still, I'll add one more to the conversation.


We're racing in the Bras d'Or Lake.  I'm crewing on a friend's C&C 35 
Mk.1 ( Draft:5' 3'' ).  We're sailing along, parallel to the shore and 
are slowly being overtaken by a Kirby 30 ( Draft: 5' 9'' ) with a 
crack crew on board who are inshore of us.  Both of us are rapidly 
overtaking a Tanzer 26 ahead.  Coincidentally, we are just off of our 
skipper's summer home so we know this stretch of shore very well.


Shortly before the Kirby 30 has an overlap on us from astern I start a 
casual conversation with the Kirby's skipper, John.


Me: "Great day for racing."

John: "Yes it is"

Me: "We are certainly gaining on Bill up there."

John: "We sure are."

Me: "You do realise he's aground ( on the sandbar off the point ),
don't you?"

John: " ... "

John: "Prepare to tack!" ... "Helm's down"

John: "Thanks Ken."

Me: "No problem"


The Tanzer 26 received the 'Dr. Shoals Trophy' at the regatta's awards 
ceremony.  The Kirby 30 still beat us...


Ken H.


On Wed, 18 Jul 2018 at 12:53, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Edd,

thanks for this story you cracked me up!!!

Danny


On 7/18/2018 11:27 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

I figure this would be a good time to share a story about when
the Enterprise-A, a 1978 C&C 34 which was co-owned by both my
father and I, hit a rock formation off of City Island.

On the afternoon before a Wednesday Night Race, I’m in my office
and I get a call from my bottom cleaner:

“Edd, what are you doing? Pushing all the rocks out to the middle
of the Sound?”
“What?!!”
“Yeah, you hit something big.”
The weekend prior, my father took his girlfriend, whom we later
nicknamed “The Crusher” (no reference to Wesley), on a short
overnight cruise to Greenwich Harbor.
“No, I did not,” I told the cleaner. “But I bet I know who did.”

Before hanging up, he told me it’s bad and I should get the boat
hauled. My next call was to the yard telling them I’ll be
bringing the Enterprise over that evening to be hauled, inspected
and repaired. I then dialed the old man. The conversation went
like this:

“Eddie? How are you?”
“I’m fine, Dad. How are you?”
“Good. Looking forward to tonight’s race. What’s up?”
“Did you have a good time with your girlfriend on the Enterprise
this past weekend?”
“Yes, we did. Thanks for asking. Weather was perfect.”
“That’s wonderful to hear. I’m happy for you. Say… when you guys
were out there, did you, oh I don’t know, happen to HIT ANYTHING?!!”
Silence. Then: “Well, on our way to the mooring, we kinda hit Big
Tom.”
“Kinda??!!”
“Yeah. She was driving and I was lowering the headsail. We went
straight into it. Pretty hard. I looked below and didn’t see any
water coming in so I thought it was OK.”
Note: Big Tom is a rock almost 200 yards due west off the
southern tip of City Island. It is surrounded by three buoys. If
you enter the triangle, you may hit it. Stay outside the triangle
and you’re safe. Only idiots hit Big Tom. The conversation continued:
“It’s not OK. Diver says big damage. We are bringing the boat
over to the yard tonight.”
More silence. Then: “Oh. OK.”
“What happened to all those times when I was a kid and you told
me that if I do something wrong, I won’t get in trouble if I own
up to it ahead of time?”
A longer pause. “Well that only really applied to you…”
“Bye Dad.”

When the yard brought the boat into the slings the next morning,
they said there was water above the floorboards. The front of the
keel was damaged and the hull behind it was cracked and loose
(the keel bent in, then snapped back, making big cracks). $9,000
in damage and several weeks out of commission. Thank God for
insurance.

Sad at the time, but we do laugh about it now. As others have
said, just be thankful nobody was hurt.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On 7/16/2018 11:18 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:

It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of
my depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts
and therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an
idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a serious
grounding on a 

Stus-List Cruising Week

[robert via CnC-List]

 I got talked into racing a Wednesday night season on a Benateau 
50.the boat intrigued me.you needed two crew just to trim the 
main...one on the main sheet via winch and one on the traveler.but 
when we came came in and tied up, heat everywhere when you needed it, 
hot popcorn from the microwave, two heads,  and the Playboy channel on 
the big screen TV.  And the owner had an open bar.  What's not to like?


Some years back we raced a Beneteau 28.5 extensively.it was a new 
boat when we raced itI really liked that boat a lota lot of boat 
for under 30' and it sailed really welldon't know how long their 
longevity will stand up compared to the C&C's .


Nevertheless, I still covet my C&C.and I spent a lot less $$$ than a 
new Beneteau 28.5' or 50'.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-07-11 4:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Spent a week cruising on a Beneteau 47.  Like driving a bus or a big 
RV.  On the other hand, having a private stateroom with dedicated air 
conditioning and head was nice.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off

[robert via CnC-List]

Richard,

Yes, I am on a slip at the marina.as previously mentioned, I leave 
both fore and aft spring lines on the slip.


I use a bow line and a stern line.they come with me when I leave the 
slipthe stern line is the exact length when docked with the bitter 
end on a stern deck cleat with a loop that goes over the cleat on the 
slipit just lays folded a bit on the deck when sailing.


The bow line is, I think, 20' or 25' and comes with me also.when 
leaving the slip I bring the bow line back to the toe rail SS cleat and 
tie it there.it stays there when sailing.when docking it can be 
used to control the boat as you have a line from the bow over half the 
length back to grab.    When the bow is tied to the deck cleat, the 
extra line goes back to a forward stanchion but doesn't do anything...I 
just tie it there so it is out of the way.   The port bow line to keep 
the boat off the slip when docked comes with me alsoI just fold it 
up and lay it on the bow roller.


Because I am usually alone, when docking I have rigged a snubber on a 
line that the inboard end goes over the main winch and when I step off 
the boat through the gate unto the slip/dock, I simply drop the loop on 
the slip/dock cleat and the boat, with its forward motion, glides into 
the slip.   I have this line just the right length so that the bow is 
several feet from hitting the dock forward..the snubber cushions the 
shock of stopping the forward motion of the boat.  When sailing and at 
the dock, I keep the snubber line in the propane locker which I don't 
keep propane in but everything else it seems.   Depending the wind, tide 
conditions all the other lines then get attached as the situation 
dictates.the fore and aft spring lines are connected with Carabiners.


My boat has been through all kinds of extremeweather at the slip with no 
issues using the toe rail SS cleats.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-06-19 11:13 AM, bushma...@aol.com wrote:


Robert; do you dock in a marina? Is there current or other force on 
the cleat?  What other lines are you using in addition to the rail 
mount cleat? Thanks

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-----
From: robert via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: robert 
Sent: Tue, Jun 19, 2018 8:46 am
Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off

John
I have been using the toe rail SS folding cleats for 12 years now for 
spring lines.works perfectly.several other club members have 
seen mine and have done the same.one is a Landfall 38.


https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=toe+rail+SS+folding+cleat&id=A13BB30600D9BFE60B70A3FDB62555C82CBA58FA&FORM=IQFRBA 



I leave the spring lines on the dock, connect and disconnect with a 
Carabiner(s).


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-06-19 12:26 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List wrote:

On My 1982 37 I have only  bow and stern cleats. There is  no
place except the Toe rail to tie My fore and aft spring lines. And
I needthem  on my docking situation.
Question - Is this fine to do tie off direct to toe rail with clip
of Carabiner ? and what are the methods of attachment? How about
Cafe?
 Do the Toe Rail cleats ( foldable)  they sell work ? or what
about the or the cleat for the genoa track ? is this worth the
price? Any other thoughts ideas are welcome
THANKS !
John Conklin
s/v Halcyon
Oriental NC


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Stus-List marine insurance

[robert via CnC-List]

Jeff:

My understanding is that most marine insurance companies require a 
survey every five (5) years  after a vessel reaches 15 years of age.


I am not allowed to keep a vessel at my club without providing proof of 
insurancei.e. for my benefit and every other club member.


Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-06-19 11:00 AM, Jeff Bechtel via CnC-List wrote:
I'm looking for any advice on marine insurance for a 1977 C&C30 M1 
that has no current survey. I'm in Toronto, Ontario.
I'd prefer not to pull the boat out of the water until the fall, but 
all the insurance companies want an out of water survey to insure.

Any advice?
Jeff



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