Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 99, Issue 110

2014-04-29 Thread sam . c . salter
It's +12 deg C in sunny Alberta, +20 forecast for tomorrow!   sam :-) From: Frederick G StreetSent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 12:58 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 99, Issue 110+1 on the Teleflex CCX 6300 and 6400 Series cables. When I replaced my steering pedestal last year, I put those in for the throttle and clutch controls; this is on aYanmar3QM. The “premium� cables are very easy to work with, and very flexible. The operation of the controls is now really smooth and easy.BTW, I’m sure you’re all sick of hearing about how bad this winter has been… but it’s snowing again today. Here’s a webcam photo from near my boat:www.postaudio.net/webserver/bayfield-2014-04-29.jpgAaaaggg!!!
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(

On Apr 28, 2014, at 12:56 PM, Michael Brown m...@tkg.ca wrote:I replaced the cable with a Teleflex 6400 TFX Extreme P/N CCX64008, which is available from West Marine:___
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options

2014-04-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Don't sweat it guys - you're American!No one expects perfect English from down there.  sam :-) From: Kevin DriscollSent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 1:00 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Prop OptionsThank you Marek, I was incorrect. Obviously others have missed the point about reading the thread before, but I look forward to Rich cleaning up others' spelling and grammar on this list, including my own.
Best,Kevin
Kevin DriscollPortland,  Oregon503 // 875 // 3493
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 11:40 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote:




if it was a possessive, it has to be “others’”




From: Persuasion 
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options


I thought Kevin was showing the possessive form


-- Forwarded message --From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
Date: Tue, Apr 
29, 2014 at 12:01 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop OptionsTo: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Certainly. Others is the correct spelling. Rich
On Apr 29, 2014, at 10:36, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com wrote:

  
  Follow the thread please before commenting and filling other's in 
  boxes.
  Sent from a mobile device.
  On Apr 29, 2014 4:08 AM, "dwight" dwight...@gmail.com 
  wrote:
  


Results are 
online free, 

http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich KnowlesSent: April 29, 2014 7:21 
AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop 
Options


They want you to buy 
the May issue of Yachting Monthly. Results there. 
Rich

On Apr 29, 
2014, at 3:43, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com 
wrote:

  
  Link to article pdf: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/

  Video has no information except 
  visuals.
  Sent from a mobile 
  device.
  
  On Apr 28, 2014 6:26 
  PM, "Robert Abbott" robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
  wrote:
  Short video on the 
  various options for folding props..may be of interest to 
  someFYIhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6oRob 
  AbbottAZURACC 32 - 84Halifax, 
  N.S.___This 
  List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com


  
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options

2014-04-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Yeah, but 3 or 4 thousand kilometres to the east - they talk funny over there too!  sam :-) From: Kevin DriscollSent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 2:15 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Prop OptionsThanks Sam, but I think Rich is from Canadia ;)
Kevin DriscollPortland,  Oregon503 // 875 // 3493
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 12:57 PM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
Don't sweat it guys - you're American!
No one expects perfect English from down there. 
 
sam :-)
   
  From: Kevin DriscollSent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 1:00 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options
Thank you Marek, I was incorrect. Obviously others have missed the point about reading the thread before, but I look forward to Rich cleaning up others' spelling and grammar on this list, including my own.

Best,Kevin

Kevin DriscollPortland,  Oregon503 // 875 // 3493
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 11:40 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote:





if it was a possessive, it has to be “others’”




From: Persuasion 
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options


I thought Kevin was showing the possessive form


-- Forwarded message --From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca

Date: Tue, Apr 
29, 2014 at 12:01 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop OptionsTo: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Certainly. Others is the correct spelling. Rich
On Apr 29, 2014, at 10:36, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com wrote:

  
  Follow the thread please before commenting and filling other's in 
  boxes.
  Sent from a mobile device.
  On Apr 29, 2014 4:08 AM, "dwight" dwight...@gmail.com 
  wrote:
  


Results are 
online free, 

http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf








From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich KnowlesSent: April 29, 2014 7:21 
AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop 
Options


They want you to buy 
the May issue of Yachting Monthly. Results there. 
Rich

On Apr 29, 
2014, at 3:43, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com 
wrote:

  
  Link to article pdf: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/


  Video has no information except 
  visuals.
  Sent from a mobile 
  device.
  
  On Apr 28, 2014 6:26 
  PM, "Robert Abbott" robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
  wrote:
  Short video on the 
  various options for folding props..may be of interest to 
  someFYIhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6oRob 
  AbbottAZURACC 32 - 84Halifax, 
  N.S.___This 
  List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com



  
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Re: Stus-List 1st 2014 Sailing Trip

2014-04-29 Thread sam . c . salter
OK - you got me!   sam :-) From: Jim WattsSent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 5:33 PMTo: 1 CnC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 1st 2014 Sailing TripIt's Port Angeles in American spelling...Jim WattsParadigm ShiftCC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BC
On 29 April 2014 16:23, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote:
Enjoy your sail. We returned last Monday from 8 days in the BVI's What a treat that was. We did have 42 knots and 7 to 8 foot seas 2 out of the 8 days. Great training exercise for my wife and I.I learned that the a anchor set 7 to 1 will hold in a gale. I just have to trust but verify. My rental boat did well. the "JeanneauSun Odyssey36i" was a nice boat but seamed thincomparedto the CC30 MK1.

My CCseamsto point better as well.Plentyof room and theshiftierworks better on the Jeanneau.However the Jenny was only 2 years old. My CC30 is 33 years old this year.

Mybrother-in Law lives in Washington. He tells itsbeautifulup thereI hope to sail there one day. Have fun and be safe.

Curt,1981 CC30MK1

HIN#675On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 6:53 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

And?

Rich

 On Apr 29, 2014, at 19:35, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:

 The best sail I’ve ever had in my life (50+ years sailing was across the straight from Victoria to Port Angelese on a CC 115.

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T. E. Lawrence. 

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Re: Stus-List 1st 2014 Sailing Trip

2014-04-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Patrick - long time - no see!Ken and I will be out next week.Have a good sail around the Gulf Islands   sam :-) From: Patrick H. WesleySent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 6:22 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 1st 2014 Sailing TripHi Sam, will be away on my boat in Gulf Islands,so will missyou. This time it is with Peter who is 6 ft 4 and I'm still 6ft 1, in a 24! My other cruising buddy is 5 ft 8. Have fun. PatrickThe Boat, Sidney BC
On Tuesday, April 29, 2014,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:







We’re flying out early Monday morning to the west coast - first sailing trip of 2014.Friend ofours lives on his Catalina 38in Sidney, Vancouver Island.
We’re going down to the San Juans and Washington State.
Will be in Friday Harbor (note American spelling!) on Monday night; Port Townsend on Tuesday night; Port Angelese on Wednesday night; Victoria on Thursday night.This trip is all about sailing and drinking.
I know it’s a Catalina (with in boom furling)- he does have an aysm.,but the price is right and so is the company.
The wind is usually good across the strait. The best sail I’ve ever had in my life (50+ years sailing was across the straight from Victoria to Port Angelese on a CC 115.
sam :-)






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Re: Stus-List ABYC compliance issue.

2014-04-17 Thread sam . c . salter
Phew - bet your wallet is breathing a sigh of relief!   sam :-) From: Glen EddieSent: Thursday, April 17, 2014 9:28 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List ABYC compliance issue.







Thanks everyone. I appreciate the comments from everyone. I know how to tackle it now.











Glen Eddie




Tel: 416-777-5357




Fax: 1-888-812-2557








Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers  Solicitors




This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named recipient(s) above and may contain
 content that is privileged, confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank you.




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: April-17-14 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ABYC compliance issue.




Drill a hole into the engine compartment in an appropriate place and put a small hinged cover with a slide bolt or similar to lock it shut.

Rich



On Apr 17, 2014, at 12:00, Glen Eddie ged...@torkinmanes.com wrote:



Can someone please let me know how to comply with the below Survey recommendation for a CC35 MkI. My Insurer is requiring compliance, which I am happy to do provided that it doesn’t cost me $$.


B.10 (PAGE 10) FIXED FIRE EXTINGUISHING SYSTEM (HALON TYPE):No fixed fire fighting system on vessel. As per ABYC A-4.5.2.2, A single suitably sized
portable fire extinguisher provided and installed
in proximity to a port to permit discharge directly
into the engine compartment without opening the
primary access.

Your assistance is appreciated. 








Glen Eddie




Tel: 416-777-5357




Fax: 1-888-812-2557




ged...@torkinmanes.com




VCard




Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers  Solicitors
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Toronto ON M5C 2W7
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Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/Riser

2014-04-14 Thread sam . c . salter
Yeah, but this is : ‎http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=32045cat=3,43576,43581ap=1 sam :-) From: Frederick G StreetSent: Monday, April 14, 2014 12:15 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/RiserFrom the Lee Valley website:3 lb Assortment of UHMW PiecesThis product is no longeravailable.
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(

On Apr 14, 2014, at 11:22 AM, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:i'd use UHMWP (ultra high molecular weight plastic)If you're in Toronto, there must be a Lee Valley close by:http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=p=43210cat=3,43576,43581You can buy 3lb of off cuts at Lee Valley for $12 and change.Cuts and drills easily with simple tools. Virtually indestructible.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta___
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Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/Riser

2014-04-14 Thread sam . c . salter
Going back to Bill's remark about UV stability.Guy I sail with has raised his traveler blocks on UHMWP (white) . They are really exposed on the combing (hotfoot 20)Been on there now about 4 seasons - still look like new, so I don't think it's much of a big deal.   sam :-) From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Monday, April 14, 2014 2:38 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/RiserYeah, but this is : ‎http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=32045cat=3,43576,43581ap=1 sam :-) From: Frederick G StreetSent: Monday, April 14, 2014 12:15 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/RiserFrom the Lee Valley website:3 lb Assortment of UHMW PiecesThis product is no longeravailable.
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(

On Apr 14, 2014, at 11:22 AM, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:i'd use UHMWP (ultra high molecular weight plastic)If you're in Toronto, there must be a Lee Valley close by:http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=p=43210cat=3,43576,43581You can buy 3lb of off cuts at Lee Valley for $12 and change.Cuts and drills easily with simple tools. Virtually indestructible.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta___
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

2014-04-12 Thread sam . c . salter
John,It doesn't matter which one.The important thing is that the drum(load) is supported by one of the pins that the gears turn on.If the ‎line puts load on the drum "off" the pin, there could be a tendency for the drum to cock slightly and the gears would not mesh true.As long as one pin is supporting the line as it touches the drum, everything will remain true and all the load will pass though the drum to pin to bearings to central boss.Your right, the instructions‎ are not clear.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: John RussoSent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 7:37 PMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientationHelp requested I am mounting my new Lewmar EVO ST 40 winches tomorrow and the mounting diagram in the application brochure shows the output gear orientation to be 90 degrees to the load as the correct orientation. This makes sense but my winches are on the boat and I seem to remember that there are two gears 180 degrees apart engaging the drum. One gear is large and the other smaller and the mounting diagram shows only one gear of undetermined size. The parts diagram does not call either of these gears an output gear and both are part #19 and called ratchet gears. Does anyone know which gear is the output gear driving the drum?Thanks for your help in advance.JohnArpeggio 1984 CC32 Norwalk, CT ___
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compression

2014-04-11 Thread sam . c . salter
I'd think twice about removing injectors to pour any sort of liquid into the combustion chambers.Diesels ignite by high compression. They achieve this by having very little clearance between piston and cylinder head. Oil is virtually incompressible so you run a real risk of a hydraulic lock or worse a bent connecting rod.Put the ‎snake oil in the sump!  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Josh MuckleySent: Friday, April 11, 2014 12:38 PMTo: CC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compressionYep that's my plan.
On Apr 11, 2014 2:02 PM, "Della Barba, Joe" joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote:
Works great on Atomic 4s. I am not sure how I would use it on a diesel without access to the cylinders. You might have to remove injectors or glowplugs.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 11:14 AMTo: CC ListSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compressionJoe,
Does it work or is that just what the label says?I would use it the same way except maybe roll the engine by hand first to release some of the oil.Josh
On Apr 11, 2014 11:09 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote:Marvel Mystery Oil has been unsticking rings since the 1920s, but I am not sure how to use it with a diesel. For a gas engine you remove the sparkplugs and pour some in.
Joe Della Barba
CoquinaFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 11:01 AMTo: CC ListSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compressionBill,
Mine was smoking a bit last season too but I attributed it to an incorrectly adjusted Max-prop. My hypothesis may have mislead me to not recognize a low power condition.Anybody ever use any of the snake oil products that are supposed to free stuck rings? "Rislone Compression Restore and Ring Seal" is just one of many I came across. The ones you pour in the cylinder seem more legit than the ones you add to the oil.
JoshOn Apr 11, 2014 10:48 AM, "Bill Coleman" colt...@verizon.net wrote:
This is very interesting.The Landfall 39 here in Erie that Lloyd Lippe in TX bought smoked a lot. The Previous owner was a CC dealer in the day, and had a yard. I talked to the manager once, he said they did everything to this engine to figure out the smoking problem and could never solve it. I’ll bet you are right on about the stuck rings. I am not sure if it ever cleared up for Lloyd.
Bill Coleman
CC 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bria...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2014 8:10 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F low compression
A thought on Josh's 3HM35F engine issues 
My "new to me" boat had been on the hard for years (4+, at least), and required a emptying and cleaning of the fuel tank, new filters, and a rebuild of the injection pump just to get my YANMAR 4JH-TE started. It seemed to run fine, and we ran it for many hours at various speeds dockside, then changed the oil and filteragain.
Still more smoke than I would like in the exhaust. In any case, pressed for time, I set out for return to Virginia from Gulf Coast, Florida. In the first 8 hours of running time, usedmore than 1/2 quart of oil, then something changed. Less smoke in the exhaust, much more power, smoother idle. 
From that point on used no more oil on the whole trip up to Virginia. At least 65 more hours of running time.
I suspectmy engine had stuck rings, and that the combination of running it and fresh oil "unstuck" them. Perhaps this applies to Josh's engine, as well, although I'm not sure how he can run it if it won't start. According to my diesel mechanic, theengine should start and run with the compression he has, just won't produce much power, and may smoke. I'm thinking his starting problem is elsewhere andwould suspect the injection pump.
Bill
MYSTY
Landfall 39
Virginia
In a message dated 4/11/2014 5:19:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, muckl...@gmail.com writes:
Hey folks,
It appears that I have low compression (130psi and 160psi) on 2 cylinders. During the first start of the season the engine started rough and powered the boat just long enough to get to the travel lift and then stalled when I throttled down. I did not attempt to restart because I was in the lift well. Upon relaunch, 5 days later, the engine just won't catch. It kinda acts like it wants to, which I assume is the single cylinder that has enough compression 

Stus-List Makes It Look Easy!

2014-04-03 Thread sam . c . salter
Here's the cure for 5ft itis :http://www.liveleak.com/ll_embed?f=4627a8984ac8‎sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta

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Stus-List Quote!

2014-04-03 Thread sam . c . salter
"Mad dogs and Englishmen‎ go out in the midday sun!"Noël CowardAll men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dustyrecesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, butthe dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act theirdreams with open eyes, to make it possible."T. E. Lawrence‎sam :-)

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Re: Stus-List 2gmf

2014-04-03 Thread sam . c . salter
Take whatever filter (or at least the part # and make) into any auto store - 
NAPA or AutoValue or Pep Boys etc..
They will cross reference it to any make you want from a big book hidden under 
the counter. (well maybe they have an app for that now!)

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: bev parslow
Sent: Thursday, April 3, 2014 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 2gmf

What is the equivalent fram filter for this?

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Stus-List Lawyers - argh!

2014-04-01 Thread sam . c . salter
Half way down the lake where I sail is a nice, little summer village - Ghost 
Village . The village is set in a fairly good sized bay with a small rock in 
the middle of the bay. It's just below water level. 

For years the village has put an orange buoy on the rock every spring to warn 
boaters - nice, neighbourly gesture! 

About 3 years ago a lawyer bought a property in the village. Next spring they 
are putting the buoy on the rock, so the lawyer starts telling them about 
liability and stuff. He persuades the village it's in their own interest not to 
put out the buoy.
There hasn't been one marking the rock for 3 years now.

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Lee Youngblood
Sent: Tuesday, April 1, 2014 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List importing boats/lawyers - argh!

With all the discussion about importing boats into Canada, I wondered 
if our friend to the North hadn't imported way too many of our lousy 
lawyers. Yes, we want the lawyers to go away, but not like this!

Too many things are marked Not for Navigational Use, and now Canada 
has this Waiver of Responsibility

Notice to Mariners / Special Notice to Mariners
Notice of updates to charts and other publications
https://www.notmar.gc.ca/go.php?doc=eng/indexhttps://www.notmar.gc.ca/go.php?doc=eng/index

Can't we send this type of lawyer and their ilk to Somalia!

Yuck!

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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

2014-03-25 Thread sam . c . salter
Not sure if this helps, but when I look in my Bainbridge International 
catalogue, 15/16 is a standard size for flat mast slides ‎(as is 3/4  7/8)

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Terry pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on my 
mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what it is. 
its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove. Its is 
getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge, creating 
all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on the outer 
edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the point now 
that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see what fits. 
Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your mast groove look 
like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:

 Rick
 
 I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of the top
 without a winch or strong track. My main sail is equipped with polymer
 slides that measure 1.47 long by 0.87 wide by 0.31 thick, measured as
 carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack in its bag and these work
 very well in the as manufactured aluminium track. I also have to deal with
 the added friction involved with leading the halyard through turning blocks
 to the cockpit. I can raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or
 someone else pulls the halyard where it exits the mast. I cleaned and
 sanded the track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few
 years back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides. The sail does not
 fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the halyard
 from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it aids me in a
 controlled packing the sail without having to deal with all the sail laying
 on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy jacks or my Dutchman system
 installed and I usually end up packing my mainsail alone the way I like it
 done, hopefully training it to fall the same way every time. Maybe I am
 just a very strong man for my age.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
 Brass
 Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
 
 Before you even think about removing the slide track, go on line and make
 sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track. 
 
 If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could have
 been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will get from
 sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 38 to within
 about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a winch. Sand if you
 let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade of a guillotine.
 Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
 
 Rick Brass
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson tvpear...@mchsi.com wrote:
 
 On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or similar)slide in
 the mast track. I want to remove the slide track and go back to the
 original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything telling
 me the proper size. the track appears to be able to accommodate either round
 slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I tried measuring the slide slot and
 it appears to be 15/16th wide flat slide .can anyone confirm this? 
 
 Thanks,
 Confused:=)
 
 
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Stus-List Practical Sailor

2014-03-19 Thread sam . c . salter
 ‎April's "Practical Sailor " has a write up of the CC 40 if anyone's interested.sam :-)

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Re: Stus-List Boat names

2014-03-18 Thread sam . c . salter
I like 42

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: M Bod
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 8:49 AM
To: CC list
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat names

I've been saving several of the messages on how to remove old boat names. 
Planning on re-naming my CS30 this spring.  Current name is Sea Fever - which 
is not bad, but does not speak to me personally. 

But I'm still not totally committed that I have the right need name. 
Like Steven I have had a running list of names that piqued my interest. I'm 
hoping to find something short, meaningful, unique and a bit witty. Love some 
of the names I see from this list (Oxygen, The Office, etc) - but I don't want 
to steal a unique name.

My current favourite is Cracked - I am a chiropractor after all, plus I've been 
told multiple times that my views on the world can be twisted. Also relates 
back to the fact I was (and maybe still am a bit) concerned about the small 
cracks in the bilge ribs.

Other front runners
- 42 (The meaning of life, the universe, and everything - maybe too obscure)
- Vita Brevis (Life is Short in Latin)
- Therapy 
- Exit Strategy

I could also use Bigger Picture (after my current Big Picture Mirage 24)

I was tempted to go with 'Handbasket' - as in 'Where are we going. And how 
are we going to get there' - but don't want the negative implications it 
carries. 

Any brilliant and witty thoughts (or critiques) welcome

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Boat names

2014-03-18 Thread sam . c . salter
With Einstein it was just a lucky guess!

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Rick Brass
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 10:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat names

You need to make allowances, Mark. After all, they are chiropractors, not 
cosmologists.

I always thought it was cool that 42 was the answer for both Adams and Einstein.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of M Bod
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2014 10:52 PM
To: CC list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat names

42 still hanging in there - my stethoscope bought when I was in college came 
with a free engraving, everyone put Dr. x - mine says 'The Answer is 42' 
- not one person got it!

Mark




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Re: Stus-List Boat Name Removal Techniques

2014-03-11 Thread sam . c . salter
Easy-Off oven cleaner.(doesn't hurt the gel-coat)  sam :-) From: kelly petewSent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 7:53 AMTo: cnc-listReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Boat Name Removal Techniques


I want to change the name on my boat, which currently hasa painted name on the stern. The removal process is either mechanical, chemical, or some combo.Any thoughts on the best approach, including materials to use? thanks,Pete W. Siren SongCC30MKIIDeltaville, VA. 		 	   		  
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Re: Stus-List Now: Worst Boat Names

2014-03-09 Thread sam . c . salter
In my opinion, all these cute or comic names don't work too well! 
They may sound good for a day or two after the boat is named, but eventually 
they're only good for forum threads like this. 
More traditional names don't get mocked on forums and sound Okay on the VHF.
What may seem real smart after half a bottle of single malt, soon becomes an 
embarrassment - unless you're blessed with a single digit IQ!

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Maturo, John
Sent: Sunday, March 9, 2014 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Now: Worst Boat Names

Blood Vessel on a Catalina 35. Dead Money on a racing sailboat. Both in 
Branford harbor

John Maturo
Ashe Baltic 39

 On Mar 7, 2014, at 20:46, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Now: Worst Boat Names

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Re: Stus-List Now: Worst Boat Names

2014-03-09 Thread sam . c . salter
I know a guy with a CC called Wet Dream.
I believe there should be legislation to stop this! 
At the least he should forfeit the boat.

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, March 9, 2014 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Now: Worst Boat Names

In my opinion, all these cute or comic names don't work too well! 
They may sound good for a day or two after the boat is named, but eventually 
they're only good for forum threads like this. 
More traditional names don't get mocked on forums and sound Okay on the VHF.
What may seem real smart after half a bottle of single malt, soon becomes an 
embarrassment - unless you're blessed with a single digit IQ!

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Maturo, John
Sent: Sunday, March 9, 2014 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Now: Worst Boat Names

Blood Vessel on a Catalina 35. Dead Money on a racing sailboat. Both in 
Branford harbor

John Maturo
Ashe Baltic 39

 On Mar 7, 2014, at 20:46, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Now: Worst Boat Names

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Re: Stus-List British and other sports cars (now Liquid electric tape)

2014-03-07 Thread sam . c . salter
Wipping?  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta  From: David KnechtSent: Friday, March 7, 2014 10:38 AMTo: CnC CnC discussion listReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List British and other sports cars (now Liquid electric tape)Related to this dipping of ends- I got a new mainsheet last summer out of VPC and the non-spiced non-wipped end is fraying badly. I found I could not melt it as I was accustomed to doing to seal the end. What is the best way to deal with this? DaveOn Mar 7, 2014, at 11:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote:



If it is sold for $7 at Lowes in the US, it 
would be sold for about $14 in Canada, so Binnacle (and Star Brite) are not 
overcharging that much.

Marek (in Ottawa)
-

David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites

2014-03-01 Thread sam . c . salter
Most of the tension and compression strength in a hull thickness is at the 
inner and outer edges. The balsa/foam/core cell? (that's not the right word, 
but my brain is full at the moment) is a lightweight centre to keep the outside 
and inside strength members apart. (like the web of a H beam keeps the outer 
flanges apart - where most of the stiffness resides.

sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

  Original Message  
From: j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2014 6:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites

yes, clearly balsa would rot when wet where as the core cell would not. 
Presumably the latter would just delaminate much like a blister? Is the 
advantage of the foam core that any moisture intrusion would be more localized? 
Is there a weight and/or cost benefit? I would guess the balsa would have 
greater insulating properties however the foam would add some strength?

So much knowledge on this list

John


Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 1, 2014, at 4:29 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Balsa core rots when it gets wet but it is quite strong on end if
 ebcapsutaed but a solid surface like a several layers of glass matt in cured
 polyester or other resin...aligned E glass fibers used with knowledge of
 where the stresses are highest offer more tensile strength than chopped
 strand and consequently less are required so lighter weight construction can
 result and have the same or better strength. Kevlar fibers have very high
 tensile strength and used as Kevlar matt in a resin laminate has good
 resistance to impact damage and is also very lightweight, carbon fibers are
 very lightweight and have high tensile strength as well, but the best
 results are achieved with proper alignment of the fibers corresponding to
 the direction of highest stress
 Just a guess
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 j...@svpaws.net
 Sent: March 1, 2014 3:27 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Help understanding composites
 
 I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff..
 
 So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl
 resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar.
 
 Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced
 by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to
 add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as
 the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and
 requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same.
 
 Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon
 which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell
 remains.
 
 Am I even close?
 
 John
 
 
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Re: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter information

2014-02-15 Thread sam . c . salter
I've brought in charter boats both ways - Canada to US / US to Canada. No problems either way.I've also chartered the CC 115 (Twist) at Island Cruising in Sidney.  Nice boat, well kept, sails like a CC. Looks nice too - dark blue hull. sam :-) From: Jim WattsSent: Saturday, February 15, 2014 10:11 AMTo: 1 CnC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter informationRegarding the OP's other question...Rick, I see no problems bringing in a charter boat from the US. This place is lousy with them all summer. Jim Watts
Paradigm ShiftCC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BC
On 14 February 2014 19:14, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:


Hi Jp,
It is easy to miss, as it can be somewhat confusing. 
You see, it's held in August at Thetis Island, in Canada, which is
geographically speaking in her Pacific South West. So you see how
confusing this can be?
Glad to help clear things up :)
Cheers,
Russ
Sweet 35
mk-1
east side, Vancouver Isd

At 08:03 AM 14/02/2014, you wrote:
Content-Type:
multipart/alternative;

boundary="=_NextPart_000_014F_01CF295B.3FC03E80"
Content-Language: en-us
Oh great…There is a CC rendezvous in the PNW? I somehow missed
the thread… can you please let me know the dates?
JP

From: CnC-List
[
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 8:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter
information

Just the other day the Admiral and I were discussing the desirability of
a cruise in the area between Seattle/Anacortes and Victoria. And,
actually, sailing our own boat and attending the rendezvous seems like a
much better idea.

Of course, shipping Imzadi to the PNW for a week or so of cruising isn’t
possible. So that brings me to asking for some advice from the west coast
contingent.

Can anyone recommend someone from whom I can charter a boat – say between
32 and 35 feet since there will just be two of us. A CC would be
preferred naturally, but I don’t suppose getting one would be likely. And
if you are recommending an American charter company, do you think they
would let us take the boat into Canada for the rendezvous?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter information

2014-02-15 Thread sam . c . salter
Also chartering in Canada might be a good idea as the US $ is starting to get stronger.   sam :-) From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Saturday, February 15, 2014 11:49 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter informationI've brought in charter boats both ways - Canada to US / US to Canada. No problems either way.I've also chartered the CC 115 (Twist) at Island Cruising in Sidney.  Nice boat, well kept, sails like a CC. Looks nice too - dark blue hull. sam :-) From: Jim WattsSent: Saturday, February 15, 2014 10:11 AMTo: 1 CnC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter informationRegarding the OP's other question...Rick, I see no problems bringing in a charter boat from the US. This place is lousy with them all summer. Jim Watts
Paradigm ShiftCC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BC
On 14 February 2014 19:14, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:


Hi Jp,
It is easy to miss, as it can be somewhat confusing. 
You see, it's held in August at Thetis Island, in Canada, which is
geographically speaking in her Pacific South West. So you see how
confusing this can be?
Glad to help clear things up :)
Cheers,
Russ
Sweet 35
mk-1
east side, Vancouver Isd

At 08:03 AM 14/02/2014, you wrote:
Content-Type:
multipart/alternative;

boundary="=_NextPart_000_014F_01CF295B.3FC03E80"
Content-Language: en-us
Oh great…There is a CC rendezvous in the PNW? I somehow missed
the thread… can you please let me know the dates?
JP

From: CnC-List
[
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 8:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC PNW Rendezvous - Charter
information

Just the other day the Admiral and I were discussing the desirability of
a cruise in the area between Seattle/Anacortes and Victoria. And,
actually, sailing our own boat and attending the rendezvous seems like a
much better idea.

Of course, shipping Imzadi to the PNW for a week or so of cruising isn’t
possible. So that brings me to asking for some advice from the west coast
contingent.

Can anyone recommend someone from whom I can charter a boat – say between
32 and 35 feet since there will just be two of us. A CC would be
preferred naturally, but I don’t suppose getting one would be likely. And
if you are recommending an American charter company, do you think they
would let us take the boat into Canada for the rendezvous?

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to - now reefing

2014-02-07 Thread sam . c . salter
And because they are not supposed to carry any load, the grommets for the nettles are placed about 3" to 4" below a line drawn between tack cringle and clew cringle. ‎That way they just neaten up the flapping, lower piece of sail that's just been reefed. That's why there is only 1 or 2 thicknesses of Dacron to strengthen that area where the reefing grommets are. sam :-) From: dwightSent: Friday, February 7, 2014 7:16 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to - now reefing













Absolutely correct Marek











From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic
Sent: February 7, 2014 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving
to - now reefing











From what I
know, the reef lines (going through cringles in the middle of the sail) are not
supposed to carry any load. They are there only to prevent the reefed part of
the sail from catching the wind and flying around. Only the tack (reefing
hook/Cunningham) and the clew (outhaul plus lashing to the boom) are supposed
to carry any loads. These little reef lines can be done “later” if needed.











Marek











--

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 19:01:30 -0500
From: "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Message-ID: 030e01cf2397$c1cee7b0$456cb710$@net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Dwight;



I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff
of the sail. My main has "dog bones" for both the 1st and 2nd reef
that go
over reef hooks on the gooseneck.



What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the
sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and
tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems
the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the
point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat.



Rick Brass














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Re: Stus-List Sailing venue envy - Vancouver area

2014-01-29 Thread sam . c . salter
I've been all over. The west coast is world class cruising. Chesapeake is great cruising too!  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Martin DeYoungSent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 7:31 PMTo: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Sailing venue envy - Vancouver area







Dennis,

Sailing the BC waters is much like sailing amongst the mountain tops. When you get a chance search for images of Princess Louisa Inlet as a good example of the
 scenery.

From Olympia Washington to SE Alaska the PNW offers +-1,000 miles of mostly awesome inshore cruising. After 30 year of cruising I have not run out of excellent
 places to go.

Yup, big tides, cold water but I would not permanently trade it for anywhere else. Hawaii, nowhere to go once there, Tonga and New Zealand, after a few months you
 will be repeating anchorages, San Francisco, awesome racing but where do you go to cruise besides the delta, So Cal, nice light air racing.

I have yet to cruise Mexico so I do not offer a comparison but I am confident other CC lister’s will chime in.


Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 6:21 PM
To: Cn Clist
Subject: Stus-List Sailing venue envy - Vancouver area





Wow! I gotta say I'm a bit envious of the listers in the Vancouver area. Drove through there and up the Sea to Sky Highway Monday
 on the way to skiing Whistler/Blackcomb.





Tides aside, it looks like some really gorgeous sailing territory. Awesome scenery.





Really different from the Gulf Coast.





Dennis C.


Touche' 35-1 #83


Mandeville, LA





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Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for CC 38

2014-01-20 Thread sam . c . salter
I installed my Garhauer adjustable genoa cars 3 or 4 seasons ago. One of the customers at the marina asked me about sail trim, after I had fitted them, so I took him for a sail. During the sail, he decided that he had to have some adjustable cars.I gave him the contact information and he ordered a set. (He's not a CC owner by the way! )The next spring, he bursts into the shop and tells me he was fitting the cars on his track; pulled out the short, blue, plastic piece of track, from one of the cars and hundreds (his words) of little ball bearings fell out on the deck and into the grass.Garhauer sent him a new set of bearings.But the moral of the story is:Read the instructions and think before you pull any blue bits out!sam :-)  sam :-) From: Monty SchumpertSent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:32 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for CC 38Ditto, also, for the Garhauer adjustable cars. I ordered them at the boat show this fall so don't have a lot of experience yet. They fit the tracks perfectly and operate very smoothly. Looking forward to using them this coming season.MontyScandia1991 CC 34+Annapolis, MDSent from my iPadOn Jan 20, 2014, at 5:54 PM, "Steve Sharkey" stevebshar...@gmail.com wrote:



I added a Garhauer system to my 1983 CC 37 last year and I love 
it. Just tell them what boat you have and they’ll make sure it fits the 
right track.

Steve
CC 37 1983
Impromptu




From: Martin "Mac" McKenzie 
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for CC 
38



I have the Garhauer system on my boat. It fit the original 1 1/4" 
track.
They 
work great.


Mac
Worthy Pearl CC 37 1983


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Re: Stus-List Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints

2014-01-16 Thread sam . c . salter
I've used the iPad with iNavX in the Caribbean, Mexico, on the west coast, Catalina (off LA), Chesapeake all with no sim card. But you do need the more expensive one with GPS in - they are not all the same. I've not used it "deep sea " as I have no intention of going off shore. Did it once - boring! But it would work fine. sam :-) From: Prime InterestSent: Thursday, January 16, 2014 7:17 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS WaypointsI've used my iPad for navigation on the Great Lakes using iNavx on an iPad without a SIM card and thus no cell service. Not sure whether Navionics requires a cell/internet connection to update chart information but iNax loads the regional maps so can operate in a unconnected manner.Although I have location, AIS and boat instruments feeding the navigation application via a ShipModul Wifi multiplexer the iPads GPS works well enough by itself.edPrime Interest1982 CC Landfall 38Toronto, CanadaOn Jan 16, 2014, at 8:40 PM, Brad Crawford bcrawf7...@comcast.net wrote:Andrew,I have used my iPad most of the time as a chartplotter also, using Navionics, we also carry back up paper charts. So far our long distance trips have been to the San Juan islands and Gulf Islands of British Columbia. Just out of curiosity, how far off shore have you used your iPad as a navigational tool, and have you always had cell coverage.BradCC 36Dora PearlSeattleSent from my iPadOn Jan 16, 2014, at 6:19 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote:Since getting my iPad a couple of years ago, I haven't pulled out a paper chart once. As you say, It's a great tool.I
 have to admit that my sextant hasn't accompanied me on a passage since 
about 2007 or 50,000 miles ago. I carry spare GPSs, but in the back of 
my mind always is the possibility that the whole system may go down and 
then what do I do? Well, I'm pretty confident of my ability to keep a 
good DR and EP, and in my ability to stay out of trouble when 
approaching a shoreline if I'm not confident of my position (which is 
pretty much always).
The bottom line is, I think that learning piloting--coastal 
navigation, etc--is a higher priority than learning to use a sextant. One
 little trick when approaching a shoreline without a position fix for 
some time is to steer to one side of where you want to go. That way when
 you see land, you know which way to turn to make your port. So if I 
want to get to Charleston, I may aim for Hilton Head and when I see 
land, or it starts getting shallow, I know to turn north in order to get
 to Charleston. If I aim straight for where I want to go, and miss, I'm 
not sure which direction to turn, the land being pretty featureless from
 offshore. This tip is courtesy of Chichester from when he was flying 
his Gypsy Moth biplane.
AndyCC 40Peregrine-- Andrew Burton61 W Narragansett AveNewport, RIUSA 02840http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/


phone +401 965 5260

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Re: Stus-List Prop Size CC 29-2

2014-01-15 Thread sam . c . salter
Expanding on Curtis' post, I have a geared Flexofold (just been delivered - 3 days Denmark to Calgary - I’m impressed) I assume, as the blades are geared together, that blade position doesn't matter - yes?  sam :-) From: CurtisSent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 1:36 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop Size CC 29-2Thanks that helps. Good Idea. I plan to dive this weekend to put the Zink on the shaft I will Market then.Thanks again.On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:27 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:
Curtis,	I put it in reverse and it closes right up. For racing, I have the shaft marked for when the blades are horizontal, so when I put the boat in gear they fold best. Otherwise, when vertical, the lower one my drop (gravity is a bitch).


		All the best,	Edd
	Edd M. Schillay	Starship Enterprise	CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
	City Island, NY
	Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Jan 15, 2014, at 3:22 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote:When sailing how do I get the prop in the correct position or collapsed. Do I put the transmission in rev? I have a 2 blad mertec folder prop and a 2gm20F Yanmay and aKenzaki KM2P transmission?

On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:48 PM, Jerome Tauber jrtau...@aol.com wrote:

I had a 29-2 for 10 years. It is actually a 28.5 foot boat with a 13 hp engine.  I used a martec folding prop and it worked fine. If I were going to a new prop kiwi props are lighter, less drag and will outperform the heavy brass bronze props made by Gori, Flexofold, etc.  They are also more economical and adjustable. A friend put one on his Sweden 38 and he raves about it.  Jerry. CC 27-v. 

Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 15, 2014, at 12:32 PM, "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:
I’m a bit surprised at the recommendation from Flex-o-fold. Seems like a lot of prop for a boat that is essentially 30 ft with a 15 HP engine. 
For perspective, a friend’s J/30 with an 18HP Yanmar has a 12x9 Martec. The Gori for my CC 38 with a 36 HP Universal @3000 RPM is a 16x10, and the Martec recommendation was 16x10 ½.
Suggest you contact Flex=o=fold and discuss the recommendation with them. They may have made a mistake in one of the inputs for the recommendation. For example, the reduction gear: A prop for a 2:1 reduction gear would have more pitch than one for a 1.5:1 reduction. IIRC there are more than 1 reduction gears available on the Yanmar engines.
I would also contact Campbell, MaxProp, and Gori to see what they recommend.
Rick Brass

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin Kane

Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 10:01 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Prop Size CC 29-2

I’d like to tap into the collective experience of CC 29-2 and/or Yanmar 2GM (15hp @3600) owners.
My 29-2 , acquired 3 years ago, had a 15x9 3 blade fixed prop installed and 15x10 2 blade Gori spare. This was my first diesel engine and initially I was quite pleased when I could reach 5knts at about 1800 +/- rpm and would top out around 2200 rpm. After learning more about diesels I realized the boat was overpropped. The next season I installed the 15x10 Gori and the overpropping is worse – black smoke starting around 2100rpm and reduced ability to push thru wind/waves. The Yanmar tach shows 3600 max rpm in neutral and also matches the reading on a laser tach at 2000rpm.
I’m looking for a new prop and am considering a Campbell Sailor, 2 blade Flexofold, or 2 blade Max Prop. On the basis of the current performance and CC owner’s manual I was thinking that a correctly sized 2 blade prop would be 14” diameter and 8 or 9” pitch.
I submitted a sizing/quote request to Flexofold and they recommended a 15x11 – which was not what I was expecting.

I’d be grateful to hear what type/size props other listers have on their 29-2s or Yanmar 2GM-15s and how satisfied they are.
Martin CC 29-2 Recalculating
Mimico Cruising Club

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Re: Stus-List Prop Question

2014-01-14 Thread sam . c . salter
I just paid $1,145 for a 15x9R Flexofold.  sam :-) From: Gary NylanderSent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 9:07 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop Question






Chuck, you missed one other option,a two bladed 
geared folding prop, like the Flex-o-fold or Gori. With the Flex, you get a 
little less sailing performance (it only folds to a width of about an inch but 
the hub is that large, so this may be a non-issue) but it has blades with more 
curve than a Martec and they have more area out toward the end, so the powering 
performance is better and because the blades are geared together, it folds and 
unfolds as a unit. 

Advantages:you don't have to align the shaft to 
assure it will fold - a non-geared unit may have a blade hanging down if the 
prop is stopped in the horizontal position - a geared one always has a blade 
which wants to fold and bring the other one with it;it unfolds easier in 
reverse, so is more reliable in emergencies; and should be available for about 
$1000 (it has been years since I bought mine, and I don't know current 
prices).

My $.02

Gary

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Chuck 
  S 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 11:41 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop 
Question
  
  I bought a 
  sailboat to sail. If I wanted a powerboat, I'd buy a bass boat or a ski 
  boat or a fishing boat or a house boat. I choose what's best for 
  sailing and bought a MaxProp in 2007. Personal choice is what it's 
  all about. The cost differences are very different as is 
  performance.  I changed from a Martec eliptic folding prop to a 
  two blade MaxProp and love it. Roughly:A fixed 3 blade prop will 
  cost $600; this is the slowest sailing prop but best powering forward and 
  reverse.2 blade Martec folding prop will cost $1500; this is the 
  fastest sailing prop but least power w motoring against the wind and very 
  little stopping power.2 blade feathering prop like a MaxProp will cost 
  $2000; next fastest sailing w great power motoring forward and reverse. 
  Maybe 95% of a fixed prop.3 blade feathering prop like a MaxProp will cost 
  $3000; third fastest sailing w greatest power motoring forward and reverse, 
  same as fixed prop, best for distance cruising.
  ChuckResolute1990 CC 
  34RAtlantic City, NJ
  
  From: "Brian Morrison" brianm...@hotmail.comTo: 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Monday, January 13, 2014 10:44:48 
  PMSubject: Stus-List Prop Question
  

  
  Hello List,
  
  I have a 1979 CC 34 with the original 2 blade martec 
  folding prop. While at the yard today a friend suggested changing the prop to 
  a fixed three blade for greater propulsion. The previous owner was a racer and 
  I am more of a cruiser. My friend suggested that the 3 blade drag would be 
  negligible but power would be much greater. Any thoughts or recommendations on 
  prop replacement would be appreciated.
  
  Brian
  
  Brian C. Morrison
  S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale
  1979 CC 34
  Baltimore, MD
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Prop Question

2014-01-13 Thread sam . c . salter
I've just ordered a 15x9R Flexofold from Denmark.I've currently got a 3 blade fixed prop and if I can get another 1/2 to 1 knot it will be worth the money!  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Rick BrassSent: Monday, January 13, 2014 9:29 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Prop QuestionThe folding prop will get you to hull speed and push you through chop if it is the proper pitch, which is all you can expect the 3 blade prop to do. Reverse, as you already know, can be a learning experience with the Martec. It will work fine at higher RPM, but tends to suck for backing up at low or moderate engine speeds unless you use proper technique. The three blade will back better at low to moderate speed.I had a fixed prop on my 38 for a couple of years. I figured out that I lost ¼ to ½ knot of speed vs. the folding prop in all but heavy air sailing. I went back to a Martec folder.There are other folding props that back up better than the Martec. A geared prop like a Gori or a Flex-o-fold should work more like a fixed prop in reverse. Or you could get a feathering prop, if you can part with that much coin, and you will get excellent sailing characteristics and also excellent performance in reverse.I’m sure others on the list will kick in with their experience.Rick BrassWashington, NCFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian MorrisonSent: Monday, January 13, 2014 10:45 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Prop QuestionHello List,I have a 1979 CC 34 with the original 2 blade martec folding prop. While at the yard today a friend suggested changing the prop to a fixed three blade for greater propulsion. The previous owner was a racer and I am more of a cruiser. My friend suggested that the 3 blade drag would be negligible but power would be much greater. Any thoughts or recommendations on prop replacement would be appreciated.BrianBrian C. MorrisonS/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale1979 CC 34Baltimore, MD___
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Re: Stus-List not unstepping mast

2014-01-09 Thread sam . c . salter
Leave them.Coefficient of expansion for aluminium is bigger than stainless so they will slacken off anyway.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: David KnechtSent: Thursday, January 9, 2014 8:05 AMTo: CnC CnC discussion listReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List not unstepping mastRelated to the discussion of unstepping the mast, if you are leaving the mast up for the winter, do people loosed the shroud turnbuckles for the winter or just leave them. I have done it both ways and not sure if there is a reason to loosen them. Boats that are in the water year round don’t loosen them, so I can’t see a reason to loosen them and then have to retune in the spring. 
David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT

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Stus-List Test

2014-01-09 Thread sam . c . salter
 Not sure my posts are getting through.sam :-)

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Re: Stus-List Test

2014-01-09 Thread sam . c . salter
Think my BlackBerry had a brainfarckle - I just rebooted it - seems cured!  sam :-) From: Joel AronsonSent: Thursday, January 9, 2014 9:56 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List TestGot it. JoelOn Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 11:53 AM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
  Not sure my posts are getting through.sam :-)

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Re: Stus-List GPS Laptop or tablet set up for BVI Charter?

2014-01-08 Thread sam . c . salter
I've chartered with Conch for the last 5 years.They don't have plotters. I'm not sure sunsail do either.I take my iPad with iNavX. One of the other guys takes his Garmin hand held. I just talked to him and he suggested that if you have an iPhone, splash out 14.99 and buy the Navionics app. He says the charts are as good as the Garmin - not waterproof though!sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta  sam :-) From: CurtisSent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 1:22 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List GPS Laptop or tablet set up for BVI Charter?I'm going to charter in the BVI in April. They tell me that the Conch charter 
boats may or may not have a working GPS on board? Is there a way to hook a 
android tablet to a navigation app that I could use or should I buy a hand-held 
unit to bring with me?Any advice on this would be great? Curtis-- At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
-Robin Lee Graham

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Re: Stus-List Record high maybe

2014-01-08 Thread sam . c . salter
Yeah, I just ordered a new Flexofold today.If it had been warmer, I'd be a lot richer!  sam :-) From: Rick TaillieuSent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 5:29 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Record high maybeDwight,I think it’s just so bloody cold all over the continent right now that no one has anything else to do but be on the computer.Rick TaillieuNemesis'75 CC 25 #371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwightSent: January-08-14 19:49To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Record high maybeMust be a record…I was out in the woods for 7 hours today and when I got home over 80 emails form this list. Rosalie just thinks that I am a popular guy. Thanks again, oops 2 more already…you guys are really doin it todayNo virus found in this message.Checked by AVG - www.avg.comVersion: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6986 - Release Date: 01/08/14___
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Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. Need some Guidance

2014-01-06 Thread sam . c . salter
Curtis,Tide and current are different - get a set of current charts.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: CurtisSent: Monday, January 6, 2014 12:16 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. "Need some Guidance"Yes Like I said I have the tide tables for my area. I will leave with the tide and return with the tide. What my question is how bad they effect is off shore? I understand the river and have sailed them 45 times in the last 2 years. Just need some advise for the off shore tide conditions. I see high and lows and when they are predicted , But along the beach to 10 miles out? does low tide go south and high go north? Does it go straight out to the east? Dumb question I know. Still learning this stuff. Sorry.
On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote:
Did you referance a tides and current book? It will tell you the speed and direction of the current which you can add or subtract as a vector to your course and speed. You have to compensate the tide and cutrent to your specific location which adds even more difficulty. 


I kinda feel like it is a bit of an exercise in frustration though. Especially in a sailboat since any change in wind can have a significant change in VMG or course speed. Best use of the tide charts in my opinion is to ensure you are timing your trip with the current instead of against. It can make a huge difference. In fact many areas can expierience currents in excess of hull speed so despite your best efforts you will never make it to your destination.


If tides and currents are strong in your area a rule of thumb is leave on high tide, return on low. 1-2 hours early doesn't hurt.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 6, 2014 1:23 PM, "Curtis" cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote:

So I'm as some of you know in the process of moving to the next step in my training. I'm in the planing stages of my first over-night near shore passage. I will leave early am: 4:00 with a full moon to help and head out to the "R 4" F1 R4s @ 32-05,901"N 080-35,099W this is the channel into Port Royal sound Beaufort SC.


I intend to sail out with the tide its a 19 mile ride I figure 5.5 knots of speed? That will put me there at Day break or just after 3.45 hrs.Then run straight east for 5nm to 32-029'899N 080-29'988 W That will take a nother 90 min,


Here, I will turn south to 32-03,997W 080-29'167W 1.92 miles = 34minHere i will turn back west to 32-03'984W 080-34'965w this 4.92 leg take .89 minThen I will turn North to will bring me the 4.92 nm back to to the "R 4" F1 R4s @ 32-05,901"N 080-35,099W the bell marker at the mouth of the channel. Then my hope will be to take the the Tide back in.


So here is the question." If I do this near shore how much will the tide effect my timing in the course: I plugged in the 5.5 based off motor speed.All together time from the dock and back to the dock. 10.956 hours to cover 60.26nm


How much time will the tide cost me off shore? I know a bought the tide in and out of the river. Just need help with the offshore expectation?Thanks again. let me know if you need more information.


LT-- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat




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Re: Stus-List winter in NS

2014-01-05 Thread sam . c . salter
That's why they have playoff football this time of year!(-27 deg C last night here west of Calgary, but up to a pleasant -12 deg C and bright sunshine now)  sam :-) From: Ronald B. FrerkerSent: Sunday, January 5, 2014 11:51 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Ronald B. FrerkerSubject: Re: Stus-List winter in NSThe humidity of the south met the artic blast here today. Bringing in the brass monkeys before you know what happens. Already 8in snow and still falling.Everything in town has shut down; science center, art museum, history museum etc. Only one could enjoy it would be the polar bears at the zoo and the last one died.High of -3F tomorrow.RonWild Cheri (probably frozen in by now)CC 30STLFrom: Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2014 12:37 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List winter in NS   Humid 65 Here
 todayOn Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 10:10 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:













Going out to play in the snow on my 750
King Quad. +2 Celsius this morning, -20 Celsius yesterday morning, 10-12
inches of new snow, sunny today, trees loaded down, trails beggin to get
broken. 

Tomorrow winter ends, +9 Celsius and
rain predicted, thinking sailing for now, someone on here said it lately and I
agree…”living the dream”








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Stus-List Real Sailing (for Crazy People)

2014-01-03 Thread sam . c . salter
http://vimeo.com/83152141I'd do it in an instant! sam :-)

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Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa

2013-12-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Title: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
As a comparison, I bought a 135% tri-radial, black Twaron, laminate genoa for my 26 last August.Cost was $2,773 less 20% ($2,218 plus shipping ) Bought it from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Was made in Toronto. (Evolution Sails is the old Quantum loft and personnel)August is a great time to buy - they were real slow and started the sail the same week I ordered. I think 20% was better than boat show discount. sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Paul BakerSent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 12:22 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
  

  
  
There's a few online lofts that would
  sort a jib and main for a 27 for around $2k. I know Precision,
  http://www.precisionsailloft.com/C-C-27-Mark-3-Sails-for-Sale-cu-s/2149.htm
  would be around that price, and you wouldn't have to pay for
  shipping to your door as they are based out of Langford
  somewhere. FX Sails are another one, similar ballpark. Of course
  both are going to be dacron sails at that price, and also made in
  China or similar.
  FWIW, I just ordered a new 110% from Leitch  McBride here in
  Sidney to replace the one that I ripped up the other day, I prefer
  to use locally made things when I can with the associated support
  etc.
  Cheers,
  Paul
  
  Orange Crush
  1974 CC 27MkII
  Sidney, BC
  
  On 13-12-29 10:59 AM, Peter Fell wrote:


  
  
  
  

  The quote from the local loft is in-line with a quote I
got two summers ago for a North genoa when evaluating the
various CC 27’s for sale locally.
  
  Where did you find sails for $2000? I’ve run some online
/ offshore-made pricing and no-where do I find anything
close to that price.
  
  I’ve got another local loft I can go to for a quote as
well, and I could go back to North in Richmond. In fact I’d
love to have North sails  a brand always at the head of
the fleet from my former Lightning racing days.
  

  
  Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
1979 CC 27 MkIII
  
  
  
From: Marek Dziedzic

Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged
  Genoa
  


  
  
Peter,
I can
  understand that you want to keep
  your old sail, but if you replace, it does not need to
  cost $2500, unless you go for
  some exotic materials. I replaced two sails
  (27 ft boat) for under $2000 this fall. The radial cut furling jib 135 was around $1k. Sorry, but I would not spend $500
  for repairs. The new sail has to
  be better than your 10-year old one (even if it was in
  a good shape).
Marek
  (in Ottawa)



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Stus-List Fw: Wind Storm Damaged Genoa

2013-12-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Title: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
Not sure if this went through!  sam :-) From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 1:41 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged GenoaAs a comparison, I bought a 135% tri-radial, black Twaron, laminate genoa for my 26 last August.Cost was $2,773 less 20% ($2,218 plus shipping ) Bought it from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Was made in Toronto. (Evolution Sails is the old Quantum loft and personnel)August is a great time to buy - they were real slow and started the sail the same week I ordered. I think 20% was better than boat show discount. sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Paul BakerSent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 12:22 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
  

  
  
There's a few online lofts that would
  sort a jib and main for a 27 for around $2k. I know Precision,
  http://www.precisionsailloft.com/C-C-27-Mark-3-Sails-for-Sale-cu-s/2149.htm
  would be around that price, and you wouldn't have to pay for
  shipping to your door as they are based out of Langford
  somewhere. FX Sails are another one, similar ballpark. Of course
  both are going to be dacron sails at that price, and also made in
  China or similar.
  FWIW, I just ordered a new 110% from Leitch  McBride here in
  Sidney to replace the one that I ripped up the other day, I prefer
  to use locally made things when I can with the associated support
  etc.
  Cheers,
  Paul
  
  Orange Crush
  1974 CC 27MkII
  Sidney, BC
  
  On 13-12-29 10:59 AM, Peter Fell wrote:


  
  
  
  

  The quote from the local loft is in-line with a quote I
got two summers ago for a North genoa when evaluating the
various CC 27’s for sale locally.
  
  Where did you find sails for $2000? I’ve run some online
/ offshore-made pricing and no-where do I find anything
close to that price.
  
  I’ve got another local loft I can go to for a quote as
well, and I could go back to North in Richmond. In fact I’d
love to have North sails  a brand always at the head of
the fleet from my former Lightning racing days.
  

  
  Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
1979 CC 27 MkIII
  
  
  
From: Marek Dziedzic

Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged
  Genoa
  


  
  
Peter,
I can
  understand that you want to keep
  your old sail, but if you replace, it does not need to
  cost $2500, unless you go for
  some exotic materials. I replaced two sails
  (27 ft boat) for under $2000 this fall. The radial cut furling jib 135 was around $1k. Sorry, but I would not spend $500
  for repairs. The new sail has to
  be better than your 10-year old one (even if it was in
  a good shape).
Marek
  (in Ottawa)



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Re: Stus-List JH4 Yanmar Serial #

2013-12-27 Thread sam . c . salter
Sorry, page 27 - engine rocker arm cover.  sam :-) From: Rich KnowlesSent: Friday, December 27, 2013 7:13 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List JH4 Yanmar Serial #I found that too, but where is it on the engine? Nothing in the manual indicating that. Rich On Dec 27, 2013, at 21:37, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:  http://www.yanmarmarine.co.uk/pdfs/owners_manual/0AJH4-G00102.pdf  See page 19  sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta   ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Happy New Year

2013-12-24 Thread sam . c . salter
 (British sailing humour - and spelling! )Merry Christmas everyone.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Albertasam :-)attachment: Spinnaker.jpg___
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Re: Stus-List CC 39 rudder port problem

2013-12-24 Thread sam . c . salter
I had one grease cup screwed into the fibreglass rudder tube of my 26.Removed it and has a flexible "grease gun hose" made up with a male screw fitting on one end (to screw into the rudder tube) and a zerk fitting on the other end (to fit a grease gun).Routed the free end to the inside corner of the starboard cockpit locker and secured with a pad eye.Now just a matter of giving it a few pumps with the grease gun when I remember, without having to climb into the bowels of the boat.  sam :-) From: Ronald B. FrerkerSent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 2:21 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Ronald B. FrerkerSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 39 rudder port problemBill,I have the same on my '73 CC 30. They tapped into the GRF with a cap fitting that holds grease for the rudder. I wasn't aware of it until my rudder started groaning during turns. My son crawled below and found a badly crudded up cap which we cleaned up and filled with grease. Tightening by turning a little at a time adds new grease.Rudder stopped groaning after that and works much smoother as one would expect.RonWild Cheri   On Monday, December 23, 2013 5:38 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:



My 35 MKII has two of those holes and
each had a grease cup…just replaced the grease cups a few years ago and
refilled them last season…the grease goes away when I tighten the cups and the
only place I see for it to go is around the rudder post…nothing much has
changed with the steering but the old grease cups were dry and corroded and one
was very hard to remove, given that I am a rather chubby snake 

  









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: December 23, 2013 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 39
rudder port problem 



  

The
only Hole in the rudder shaft housing I can think of is the grease fitting that
in the forward left quadrant close to the bottom, which, if you were standing
in the cockpit looking forward, would be about 10:00 . I have no idea why
they put a fitting that needed to be attended to in a place where only a snake
could reach it. I have never squeezed any grease onto the shaft because I
can’t see what I am doing and I don’t want a leak either. I would guess they
drilled a hole in the fiberglass and tapped it, or just screwed the grease
fitting in sans threads, don’t know. 

But,
I wouldn’t mess with it while it was in the water. 

I
measured my shaft diameter at that ‘bearing’ point, and it was polished and
only a half a thousandth shy and still snug, so, I figured good enough. 

  



Bill
Coleman 

CC
39  



  

  

















 









From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James DeFelice
Sent: December-21-13 14:53
To: C and C List
Subject: Stus-List CC 39
rudder port problem 









 









I
am new to the mailing list and I am not sure of all the protocalls. I
have a '71 CC 39 (Windquest) and the rudder port is leaking and there is a
bit of play where the rudder post enters the hull. Are there drawings
available of the rudder port? Has anyone had one apart. The boat is
unique among '39s in that it has a partial skeg and high aspect ratio rudder
rather than the typical shark fin. Any help would be much appreciated. 









Jim
 



























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Re: Stus-List Thru hull transducer replacement

2013-12-20 Thread sam . c . salter
You can also use 2 hole saws. One the size of the original hole ; One the size of the new transducer. Mount them both on the same arbour (I'm told Harbour Freight in the US sell them). You need a longer arbour to mount both hole saws together. The smaller saw centres in the old hole, the larger cuts your new hole.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: Rich KnowlesSent: Friday, December 20, 2013 4:26 PMTo: cnc-list Cnc-ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Thru hull transducer replacementTapered wood emergency plugs available from chandleries make great centring devices for the hole saw. Drive them gently into place. Mark about 1/4" from the outside of the hull, remove, cut off the external excess, mark the centre, replace and drill away.
Rich

On Dec 20, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:Replaced the old 1 1/2" speed and depth through hulls w new style 2" thru-hulls two years back.The newer style AirMar sleeves are much better including a spring loaded shutoff so when you pull the speedo, less than a teaspoon of water leaks in. Before about two cups of water would sneak in, but now I pull the speedo after each sail because it's so easy. It makes it so easy to keep the paddlewheel clean.I removed the old plastic thru-hulls and enlarged the holes using a hole saw.Cut a wooden plug from several layers of plywood that fit the old holeand that kept the hole saw centered.  All thruhulls onResoluteare flush, the balsa core is cut back several inches from thru-hull locations and the inner layers are bonded to the outer layers, and the sleeve is countersunk into the outer hull surface about 1/4". The hull laminate is about 3/4" thick along the centerline making a fiberglass keelson. Used a dremel to chamfer the edge and West System epoxy and 404 filler to seal the edges of glass and get a good fit. Then 4200 the sleeves in place, snugged up the collar washers inside, and faired over to make a racing bottom finish. The wooden plug was the trick that made it all work. I took a few pictures if anyone is interested?ChuckResolute1990 CC 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom:"Rich Knowles" r...@sailpower.caTo:cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent:Friday, December 20, 2013 1:41:48 PMSubject:Re: Stus-List In hull transducer locationWhatever works for you. Don't let the hole size become a problem. It's not.Rich___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

2013-12-17 Thread sam . c . salter
Cunningham doesn't flatten the sail - moves the Max draft fore  aft.Outhaul flattens lower part (1/3?) of the main ; Backstay tension flattens the upper (2/3?)sam :-)   From: Brent DriedgerSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 5:14 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckI have a 3DL genny , love it and intend to replace my main with one once I have a few boat units to spend. I would think that dispute the inability of the string sail to change factory shape based on tensioning, I should still be able to flatten it out with the Cunningham once the wind comes up. If not I'll be replacing my main with a Dacron sail. I like having some gears to shift to as the wind increases prior to reefing.Brent Driedger27-5s/v Wild RoverLake WinnipegSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 17, 2013, at 5:09 PM, niall buckley niall.j.buck...@gmail.com wrote:Even if the sail itself doesn't stretch, adjusting the luff tensionalters the performance of the sail, desirable in changing windvelocities and different sea conditions. There should be a YouTube
video to demonstrate...I'll take a look. Do you have an expertsail guy in your area; in the business, for example making sails ?That would be another resource for you.Best Regards,
NJB CnC41, Halifax.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:06 PM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:

I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do?
sam :-) 
 

   
  From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
Sam,If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel),
find a copy of "sail power".Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat.
I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:



If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do?

Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one!

A bit more explaining please!

sam :-) 

 



   

  From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered.You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely

not ever require a Cunningham ever again.
Have Fun.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:









Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. 
New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference 
between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald 
tires in a snow storm 


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 
AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Halyard 
Tension


Reading the tread about halyards, and an 
earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out 
there: -

I don’t race - only because there’s no-one 
racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.

Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

2013-12-17 Thread sam . c . salter
 Well yes, I take that back - you're right.sam :-)  From: Rick BrassSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckProvided you have a keel stepped mast and either a baby stay or forward lower shrouds to cause the mast to bend.On a boat like my 25, with a deck stepped mast and neither forward shrouds nor stay, all tightening the backstay accomplishes is tensioning the forestay and take the curve out of the luff of the genoa. Flattening the main is done with outhaul and vang.Rick BrassFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 8:48 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckBackstay tension flattens the upper (2/3?)sam :-)___
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Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

2013-12-03 Thread sam . c . salter
If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do?Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one!A bit more explaining please!sam :-)   From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckThe main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered.You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likelynot ever require a Cunningham ever again.
Have Fun.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:







Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. 
New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference 
between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald 
tires in a snow storm 


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 
AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Halyard 
Tension


Reading the tread about halyards, and an 
earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out 
there: -

I don’t race - only because there’s no-one 
racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.
But I like passing boats and hate it when 
boats pass me!
My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all 
rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour 
haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago.
I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While 
sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the 
wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!)
Now the question:
Late this season I bought a new high tech, 
Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa.
I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension 
with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron 
sail.
Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main 
halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this 
assumption?
If this is correct, are there any trimming 
adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? 
Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails?
What new techniques do I need to absorb?
Thanks,
sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta.

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Re: Stus-List Canadians - retail sales tax used boat

2013-12-03 Thread sam . c . salter
It's a small price to pay for living in the best country in the world. If it was free the place would be full-to-bursting!(lights blue touchpaper and stand clear! )sam :-)   From: Rich KnowlesSent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:39 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Canadians - retail sales tax used boatFred: exactly! No whining!!RichOn Dec 3, 2013, at 18:51, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:Steve — it’s probably not much consolation, but isn’t the sales tax charged on the sales transaction, not on the item being sold? I know that when you buy a used car here in Minnesota, every time the car changes hands there’s sales tax involved. The state gets its due…  sigh
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(

On Dec 3, 2013, at 4:19 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote:The boat was bought and sold in Canada, through a broker. The broker handled the transfer of the license.It's a 33 year old boat. I'm seriously asking how this is justified, I'm sure there is some justification (not sure that it'll be logical), but hey .. I'de like to know. The government collects sales tax on the same thing multiple times?SteveSuhana, CC 32Toronto___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

2013-12-03 Thread sam . c . salter
I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do?sam :-)   From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckSam,If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel),find a copy of "sail power".Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat.
I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:

If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do?
Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one!
A bit more explaining please!
sam :-) 
 

   
  From: niall buckleySent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck
The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered.You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely
not ever require a Cunningham ever again.
Have Fun.On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:








Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. 
New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference 
between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald 
tires in a snow storm 


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 
AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Halyard 
Tension


Reading the tread about halyards, and an 
earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out 
there: -

I don’t race - only because there’s no-one 
racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.
But I like passing boats and hate it when 
boats pass me!
My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all 
rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour 
haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago.
I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While 
sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the 
wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!)
Now the question:
Late this season I bought a new high tech, 
Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa.
I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension 
with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron 
sail.
Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main 
halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this 
assumption?
If this is correct, are there any trimming 
adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? 
Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails?
What new techniques do I need to absorb?
Thanks,
sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta.

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Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck

2013-12-03 Thread sam . c . salter
But I've got high tech halyards, they have less stretch than wire. Is this still necessary?Also, will the draft move at all in a high tech sail?(I'm not arguing, just trying to get my head around it.)sam :-)   From: Jerome TauberSent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 7:16 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails SuckUnder load or in a puff the halyard will stretch and loosen the luff causing the draught to move aft.  The greater the load (more wind) the more stretch, exactly the opposite of what you want as a racer. On the other hand, for a cruiser, stretch in a puff will take some of the pressure off the sail causing less wear and longer life for the sail and allow some spillage of air if the sheets stretch as well.  Jerry CC 27 V.  

 





 





 





-Original Message-

From: sam.c.salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com

To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Tue, Dec 3, 2013 9:06 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck













I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail that doesn't stretch do?



sam :-)







 



 



   

  

From: niall buckley



Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PM



To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck













Sam,

If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the most pleasure from sailing your vessel),



find a copy of "sail power".



Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that accelerate your boat.




I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book.











On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM,  sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:







If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting halyard tension going to do?




Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one!




A bit more explaining please!










sam :-)

 




 





   


  

From: niall buckley



Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PM



To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com






Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck




















The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is factory engineered.

You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. You will likely




not ever require a Cunningham ever again.




Have Fun.











On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:














Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread. 
New main and #1 on Koobalibra CC115 this past summer. The difference 
between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald 
tires in a snow storm 








From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com

Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 
AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Stus-List Halyard 
Tension
















Reading the tread about halyards, and an 
earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out 
there: -











I don’t race - only because there’s no-one 
racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.




But I like passing boats and hate it when 
boats pass me!




My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all 
rope halyards; new adjustable genoa 

Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm

2013-11-30 Thread sam . c . salter
Aaron,When you get a new main, you won't believe what a different boat she is!I'm sure someone has said it here already, but you need a bit of weather helm. For steering feel - Lee helm feels like the boat is out of control and to help the keel counteract leeway when going upwind. But we're talking 4 or 5 degrees. (That's rudder angle not wheel angle- not sure if you have a wheel or a tiller. Much more than that and drag starts to become an issue.Too much heel also ramps up drag. It might seem fast with the rail in the water, but your wife has it right. Most boats have a "sweet spot " some where around 15 to 20 deg. Some a lot less.Keep taking the tablets,Sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: Aaron RouhiSent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 8:33 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helm


I won't even come close to have as much experience as many of you guys here but I still remember to loosen the topping lift! ;)I received a lot of great feedback here so here a bit more background on the weather helm situation:My 30-1's weather helm is in no way a major issue. I guess it all comes back to my personal preference for less pressure on the helm. I also like to sail with least amount of heel possible especially when Admiral is onboard. Overtime, I have noticed that if I reef early and move the traveler to leeward, I can reduce both weather helm and heel angle tremendously. Without that, the boat has much more weather helm and heel but in no way she feels 'out of control' or un-manageable. It handles well in heavy conditions regardless. I haven't had the opportunity to sail on any other 30-1s so I have no point of reference. Comparing it to my friend's 35-2, I feel more pressure at my helm so I always try to match that boat's feel since it's the only other classic CC I have been sailing. That might be contributing to my perception...As far as the mast's rake, I used to have about 3" around two years ago (I measured it by hanging a very heavy plum bob from my main halyard on a super calm day). Around that time, my mast step was giving up because of the infamous plywood stringers. When I rebuilt it and stepped the mast again, I decided to rake it a bit forward (about an inch). This didn't make much of a difference in reducing the helm pressure and I didn't restore it back mainly due to laziness!At the end, I think you guys have found the issue: I have a baggy mail. It's an old sail and I'm trying to get every last penny out of it before ordering a new one. I have been using the Cunningham to move the draft forward and I thought it's making a difference but never realize how much of a major factor a baggy main could be. I purchased a new 135jib early this season from Quantum and I'm very happy with it. I will budget a new main for next season and restore the rake back to the official specs (6" to 8"). Hope that will make a difference.Thanks again for all your notes and great suggestions as always...Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MDDate: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 22:07:20 -0800From: paradigmat...@gmail.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 30 MKI weather helmAlthough I hate to mention it, I have seen people having a huge amount of trouble with weather helm because their boom was held on center by a backstay-mounted topping lift, amongst other things. 
To the original poster: I don't mean to sound out of line here, but have you had an experienced sailor out with you to give you some feedback on your setup?
On 29 November 2013 12:21, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote:
Good point about sails changing the feel, Gary. A blown out main or jib, with the max draft at the battens will move the apparent center of effort way aft.
On the other hand, my crew is so tough, they don't even know how to reef!

Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA  02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 29, 2013, at 14:16, "Gary Nylander" gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:

 I'm with Curtis on this one. I seldom reef because we are mostly in light air. I drop from the 155 to the 140 when there are full whitecaps (15?) and then reef at about 20. Don't have a second reef, so if it is blowing harder than low 20's, I go to the working jib.


 My working jib is probably original to the boat (1980) - when I bought her, it was very new feeling (crinkly) and seldom gets out of the 

Re: Stus-List Winterizing - putting oil in the intake

2013-11-29 Thread sam . c . salter
Is it freshwater or raw water cooled. (Has it got a heat exchanger? )sam :-)   From: niall buckleySent: Friday, November 29, 2013 2:01 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing - putting oil in the intakeHi Rick,Thank you for that helpful article.I have a question for you. Really, I should be able to figure the answer outbased on all of the back and forth on winterizing. Anyway, here is the question.
My engine is a 35 HP Yanmar. I live in Nova Scotia where the winters arerelatively mild by Canadian standards. However, once in a while they can be brutal.My winterizing has always been very simple ; remove hose from raw water intake, point it to the sky,
insert funnel, start engine and pour about 2 gallons of plumbers anti-freeze intothe hose (which goes to the impeller), end of story.Rick, I've done this, for several years and it's worked just fine. Should I be worrying about
getting the engine up to temperature (is this even possible, out of the water, with no loadon the engine ?), so as to allow anti-freeze into the engine block.Then, there's all the comments about getting water into the block.
Can you help me with this ?On Fri, Nov 29, 2013 at 1:13 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:
Since your reply is to Joshes comment about getting water into an engine by cranking it too long, I presume that is what your friend did. 
There are two typical was for water intrusion to seize a diesel engine:
Corrosion - Normally the flow of compressed vapor in the cylinders will keep water from going from the exhaust manifold to the cylinder while the engine is cranking. After the engine stops cranking, water can drain back through the exhaust valve into the cylinder and cause the piston rings to corrode to the cylinder walls and seize the engine over time. The cure, unfortunately, is to disassemble the engine, hone the cylinders (or replace the liners if they are part of the design), and replace the rings, bearings, seals, etc. Often, rebuilding with a new short block is more cost effective than a piece by piece rebuild. 
Hydraulic Lock - If your friend got water into the exhaust manifold by cranking, then stopped cranking, and the engine “seized” when he started cranking again, the problem is probably an hydraulic lock and not corrosion. Incompressible liquid gets into a cylinder or two and when the piston moves upwards it reaches a point where the crankshaft can no longer turn. There is a slight chance of this happening when an engine is cranked too long with the compression released. A starter is usually not strong enough to actually break any engine components, but the engine will be locked up by hydraulic pressure in the cylinders. The solution here is to pull the cylinder head (the quicker the better) remove the liquid, spray in a bit of fogging oil to lube the cylinders, reinstall the head, and retime the injection pump. Not a pretty thing to do, but less expensive than a rebuild.
From my perspective as a Yanmar, Perkins, Cummins industrial engine maintenance trainer, and a former certified Cummins diesel technician, I’d like to comment on the practice of putting liquid oil (diesel, motor, or Marvel Mystery) into the intake manifold before first startup in the spring.
Don’t do it. It only takes an ounce or so getting into through an intake valve into a cylinder to cause an hydraulic lock. And if you only put a tablespoon or so into the air intake, realistically, none of the oil is going to make it into the cylinders before startup.
It would not be a bad practice to spray a small bit of fogging oil into the intake as you crank the engine for the first time. The atomized oil will be drawn past the intake valves to lube valve guides and upper cylinder walls, but the quantity will not be enough to cause hydraulic lock.
Actually, putting in the fogging oil (a couple of cranks of the engine with fuel cutoff, while spraying oil into the intake) as a last step in the layup process makes more sense than fogging at first startup.

Rick BrassWashington, NC


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 10:09 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
A friend of mine managed to seize the engine in an almost unuseddiesel generator that way. It would not budge either way immediately afterwards, inspite of big wrenches andmuch grunting.Don't know yet what broke. He filled it with oil andhas left 

Re: Stus-List Winterizing

2013-11-27 Thread sam . c . salter
 It's on the shelf marked "Snake Oil!sam :-)  From: dwightSent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:45 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



















Where did you find the Marvel Mystery
oil…Canadian Tire used to have it but no longer











From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: November 27, 2013 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing







I remove my t-stat, then
I run anti-freeze through the motor by disconnecting the intake hose from the
seacock and shoving it in the antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the
exhaust and when anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No
messing around running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water
cooled A4. I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and
turn the engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done.
In the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor and
catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.









Steve





Suhana, CC 32





Toronto











On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at
4:52 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com
wrote:





If you don’t run the
engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit in the sump all winter
long…best to give her a run and get the new stuff where it’s needed…how long
you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but I change oil for the winter
storage before my last trip to the marina, for me that’s about a 20 minute run
under power.















From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM




To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing











I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old
oil out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil? I have
just been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp













--



Jonathan



Indigo CC 35III



SOUTHPORT CT










On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com
wrote:











Chuck



Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it
is equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 
CC 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS









On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
wrote:





Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right. I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature before
winterizing. 
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase. I
have a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump. This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps
and will use again next year.   







Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ













From: "dwight veinot" dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com



Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM






Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing





Chuck



If I remember you have a Universal M4-30. Is yours
your water cooled and that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure
the thermostat opened. No need to do that if your engine has a heat
exchanger like mine does
















Dwight Veinot



Alianna 
CC 35 MKII



Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS









On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
wrote:





I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today. Nice to have
that option. It works. It is environmentally friendly since it captures
antifreeze escaping the exhaust.  

My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere because
of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks. It works. It
is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
 But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed
the 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel. Had to run for about
twenty minutes to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was
open. I started w 4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze. The engine
sucked up about 1 1/2 gallons. Used the rest to winterize the ice box
drain, foot pump, sink traps, and bilge pumps.

Love the list 

Re: Stus-List Winterizing

2013-11-19 Thread sam . c . salter
If the antifreeze came out of the exhaust, then the muffler is full of anti freeze too!SamCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: David KnechtSent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 4:19 PMTo: CnC CnC discussion listReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List WinterizingI wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8� tygon tubing and a funnel. I pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran it up to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to add a T to the intake port. My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler is the large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on any visible side. Dave. 
David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

2013-11-19 Thread sam . c . salter
I have a 2GM20F Yanmar.I lake sail in the Rockies in Alberta, Canada.It's currently -15 deg C and usually gets to -25 to -30 for a week or two in January.I don't blow out the lines, but I drain them. Been doing it for 10 yrs.Drain strainer, pump (pull impeller) , water muffler, heat exchanger.drain hoses.I leave the antifreeze in the block.No problems in 10 years.SamCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: Josh MuckleySent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 5:34 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List WinterizingI have a fresh water cooled Yanmar. Has any body considered blowing the lines clear? I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out with a shop-vac. I guess I should have kinda done it the other way around. I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a gallon (or less) of antifreeze. I have an RV friend that says he catches the antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year. Any thoughts on blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry?

Anybody stay in the water through the winter? I was thinking that the water heater might keep the cabin above freezing. BTW I'm in the Chesapeake Bay.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" dwight...@gmail.com wrote:
DavidI can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not. If it is raw water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in order to get the antifreeze mix around the block.

If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 mix is about right for that. I always check the freezing point of my engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make sure.

In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too.

It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last 5 years.

Dwight VeinotAlianna CC 35 MKIIHead of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:

I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran it up to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to add a T to the intake port. 

My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler is the large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on any visible side. Dave

. 


David KnechtAries1990 CC 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing

2013-11-19 Thread sam . c . salter
In a freshwater cooled engine, the block always has antifreeze in it. It's never drained.The raw water side has rubber hoses, a strainer - probably bronze and stainless, the raw water pump, the heat exchanger - brass or copper tubes, which will drain down anyway, the mixing elbow - at the high point and will also drain down, the water muffler - which on mine is some sort of plastic or resin.There is nothing in the raw water side to be concerned about as regards rust and wear.I don't have a water heater.sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: MikeSent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:58 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



HI Josh
I would not recommend leaving the engine / exhaust dry. The inside of 
the engine will rust and cause increased wear. I always stored with 
plumbing in the engine. I would drain the block/muffler. Then run 
the antifreeze through it. I would do this twice. Never Had 
any problems.
MIke 




From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing


I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar. Has any body considered 
blowing the lines clear? I actually added antifreeze last year and then 
blew it out with a shop-vac. I guess I should have kinda done it the other 
way around. I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with 
half a gallon (or less) of antifreeze. I have an RV friend that says 
he catches the antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year. Any 
thoughts on blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry?
Anybody stay in the water through the winter? I was thinking 
that the water heater might keep the cabin above freezing. BTW I'm in the 
Chesapeake Bay.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 CC 37+Solomons, MD
On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" dwight...@gmail.com wrote:

  
  
  
  
  DavidI can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or 
  not. If it is raw water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the 
  thermostat to open in order to get the antifreeze mix around the 
  block.If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the 
  pump, heat exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine 
  coolant mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 
  50/50 mix is about right for that. I always check the freezing point of 
  my engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make 
  sure.In either case, your muffler should be protected and not 
  require draining and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze 
  mixture I think the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use 
  that same mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet 
  too.It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the 
  impellor from my Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed 
  it in the last 5 years.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Dwight VeinotAlianna CC 35 MKIIHead of St. 
  Margaret's Bay, NS
  On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:
  
I wanted to report back on my winterizing 
efforts last weekend. I went ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 
5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I pushed that into the intake port on 
the outside of the hull and then ran it up to the deck. There I 
prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the end into a bucket 
with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up the engine and watched 
as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It leaked a bit around 
the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very happy with this 
procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire 
process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to 
add a T to the intake port. 
My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler 
should be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the 
muffler is the large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no 
drain port on any visible side. Dave 
. 





David Knecht
Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT 
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Re: Stus-List Winter sailing

2013-11-10 Thread sam . c . salter
 Listen to Derek Hadfield; do what he tells you - he probably knows what he's doing!sam :-)  From: OldSteveHSent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 11:06 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailingI'm sailing from Lunenburg NS to Antigua, leaving Sat  Nov 16. 9 to 12 days,about 1,600 nm.This is with Derek Hatfield aboard the Volvo 60 - former Amer Sports One.Some friends and I did a Lunenburg to Bermuda trip with Derek in 2012. So on this subject I have never done a longer single passage like this one.Is there any advice from the group, what to bring along, what not to botherbringing?I have the basic stuff/list already but would appreciate any insights.Thanks!Cheers,Steve HoodS/V Diamond GirlCC 34Lions Head ON--Message: 7Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 08:45:20 -0500 (EST)From: "Richard N. Bush" bushma...@aol.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List ; Winter sailingMessage-ID: 8d0ac323b7fdf67-1054-26...@webmailstg-m03.sysops.aol.comContent-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"OK, the boats, (most of them anyway) are being winterized and repair listsare growing, so, where do you guys go for winter sailing/chartering?   Ilook at the glossy ads for charters and know that it can't be theunblemished Eden they espouse, but there must be some charters and chartercompanies that are better than others; unfortunately, as for my family, oneof my family members refuses to fly so that eliminates most of theBahamas/Caribbean charters, any suggestions, (also within a modest budgetplease!)? Richard1987 33-IIRichard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality !!!!

2013-11-07 Thread sam . c . salter
I've got a CC because I was in love with them as a teenager. I'd lay in bed at night looking at CC 's in my sailing magazines instead of Rachel Welch or Brit Eklandwell I did that too!But as I got older and a little better off, I've chartered a lot of modern boats all over, including a CC 115. There's a lot of good boats out there!A few years ago, if I'd had spare cash, a 115 could easily have turned my head. Now, these new CC's could too. Modern designs sail real well - settle down guys, your starting to sound like you're fathers!sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: j...@svpaws.netSent: Thursday, November 7, 2013 6:17 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality Well the logo really isn't badDidn't mean to offend.I do recall sailing in New York back in 2000 on my 34+.  My wife and I thought we were pretty hot shi...stuff as any boat under 45' was fair game for us.  Along came a friend in his brand new 121 named Lady Hawk. They were doing a shoot for the brochure.  What didn't make the brochure (thankfully) was that boat smoking our 34 like we have never been beaten before.  Yep, it wasn't hard to talk me into a 121 13 years later.  I suspect I will have the same experience should I ever run into the new breed.Better start saving now!JohnSent from my iPad On Nov 7, 2013, at 8:02 PM, "Ron Casciato" rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:  John:  Thanks, I get it...but they don't have to sell thousands of boats..(Average price will be in the $250K+ range, in my opinion.  They do have to build a slick fast competitive boat that any potential J105 or  J109 buyer would change his mind for..  In my mind, this is a price to market issuehell, if I were to win the lottery, the first call I'd make is to the new CC guys...and we'd be off and running; new logo and all.  Best,  Ron-Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 7:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality   Well, I agree with the sentiment if not the content.  Sabre...priced one of them lately.  Actually... Yes (although they are no longer making sailboats).  In fact I sold a 386 to return to CC, albeit of the Tartan vintage.  I don't regret the decision for a minute.  I believe there are several "list lurkers" that might surprise you.  I very much liked the exterior of the redline 41 and were it not for my 121 which I am in love with I would likely be giving them a call.  The interior needs to be reworked but I believe he mentioned other designs.  I wish them well. Like many on this list I just think they are fighting an uphill battle with the 30.  They may well prove me the idiot I am and end up selling thousands of boats.  I hope they do.  If I had a choice, I would prefer to see a return to what Tartan did originally with the 110/121 - a really good performance cruiser.  Of course, if I was in the majority Tartan never would have sold the band.  As I recall, the comment in 1999 was that the boat needed a CC logo on the shower door to prove it was a CC.  Nope, not a lot of love from the Niagara crowd.So yes, we probably all should be a bit more open minded.  In a few years, we may well find a few generation next CC's on this list.  John Sent from my iPad  On Nov 7, 2013, at 7:22 PM, "Ron Casciato" rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:  To the group...  Just some thoughts to bring the conversation down to today's reality check.. I would advance that most of the listers in this group who own CC boats actually own boats older than 1990...Maybe a few in the early 90's. virtually none of us own anything that competes with new models of racer cruiser boats today.  I own one of the Bruckman CC's built in 1977.  It's a 38MKIIC and was built as a custom boat for someone in Chicago to race in the Mac races.. I have completely refinished her to better than new condition and we race her weekly in the local PHRF series.  That makes her over 46 years old and I wouldn't give her up for any amount. And yes, I would love to see those lines continued in to the future, it's a great boat, but the reality is that you can't make a current business on those older boat's designs I admire Will's courage and intent on keeping the "marque" but really, not one of us is a potential customer of the new boats of any brand in today's market at today's new boat prices...Incidentally, most of us are too 

Re: Stus-List Current CC History

2013-11-06 Thread sam . c . salter
 I'm reading all this on my BlackBerry Z10.I'm getting real depressed!Sam :-)  From: Bill BinaSent: Wednesday, November 6, 2013 5:38 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: billb...@sbcglobal.netSubject: Re: Stus-List Current CC HistoryThe new logo is a big mistake.Bill BinaOn 11/6/2013 7:12 PM, Leslie Paal wrote: i read the story, felt very hopeful.  Then looked the 30' and I thought, that is NOT the spirit of CC.  I think a capable racer/cruiser would have better market than an other race only design.  Time will tell; I wish them the best. Leslie Phoenix, CC32  On Wed, 11/6/13, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote:___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Build File

2013-11-02 Thread sam . c . salter
If you want line drawings contact the curator here: http://www.marmuseum.ca/They have a lot of the original CC drawings.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta  From: Chuck SSent: Friday, November 1, 2013 7:04 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Build FileThat's a shame about the build file. FWIW, the build files for our boat were very dissapointing. Mostly just hand written lists of parts ordered and typed invoices for the same stuff with items backordered, complaints from weekly inspections about work pending. If I hadn't bought the file long ago, I would always regret never seeing it, but after reading it through once, I was very dissapointed and have never referenced it again after 6 years. Mine had nothing useable. I had hoped to find lines drawings, or some sketches, or plans, but there was really nothing useful in the whole 1/2" thick manilla folder except a bunch of lists. ChuckResolute1990 CC 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "Richard N. Bush" bushma...@aol.comTo: kenhea...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Friday, November 1, 2013 11:11:42 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Buld FileI just spoke with Rob McLaughlin of South Shore; he told they threw them in the dump because that were of no use to him and proceeded to tell me how worthless they were; I asked why he didn't give them to the Great Lakes museum... hewould not answer me...
I am thoroughly disgusted that he would do such a thing; Ugggh!










Richard


1987 33-II






Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255





-Original Message-
From: Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thu, Oct 31, 2013 5:21 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Buld File





Try:





serv...@southshoreyachts.com






or






sa...@southshoreyachts.com









http://southshoreyachts.com/



Contact Us

Have questions for us? We invite you to contact South Shore Yachts using any of the following methods.

South Shore Yachts
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Rob MacLachlan | Owner/Sales
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On 31 October 2013 17:24, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote:

From whomwould oneorder the build file? Many thanks





Richard


1987 33-II



Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255







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Re: Stus-List boom goose neck

2013-10-31 Thread sam . c . salter
 www.rigrite.comSam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta  From: Ryan RaberSent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 6:00 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List boom goose necklooking for a new goose neck for a 90' 34/36r and ideas where to find one? thank you!Ryan RaberSCAPA 1990 34/36r___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List boom goose neck

2013-10-31 Thread sam . c . salter
http://www.hollandmarine.com/Try these guys too - they ended up with a load of CC Parts.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: Jeffrey NelsonSent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 8:46 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List boom goose neckI believe I got mine from:http://southshoreyachts.com/product-category/cc-parts/cc-mast-parts/On 10/31/13, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: www.rigrite.comSam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta  From: Ryan RaberSent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 6:00 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List boom goose necklooking for a new goose neck for a 90' 34/36r and ideas where to find one? thank you!Ryan RaberSCAPA 1990 34/36r___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com--Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag CC 30
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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

2013-10-21 Thread sam . c . salter

  
Good experiences; thanks for sharing.
Looks like two or three endorsements for the Max Prop; about the
same against the Martec; one for the Flexofold; ...and a Gori
replacing a Martec!
couple of questions:
How big a deal is the maintenance on the Max Prop?
Is it just a matter of greasing the prop every couple of years or is
there more? - I pull the boat out of the lake every October; so it
wouldn't be too much of a concern.
I still have the old prop on the shaft. Am I correct in assuming
that the taper is a standard SAE? I'm going to need to know for sure
before I order. (Probably safer to remove the prop and measure for
peace of mind!)
Any more information / experiences / insights welcome.samCC 26. LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta
‎‎On 10/20/2013 7:21 PM, Tim Goodyear
  wrote:


  
  Sam, I have a two blade Flex I Fold, which goes nicely
forwards and backwards and replaced a 2 blade non-geared Martec
that went sideways in reverse and sometimes went forward if the
blades opened together (even after rebuilding). The two do not
compare.
  
  
  Tim
  Mojito
  CC 35-3
  Branford, CT
  
On Oct 20, 2013, at 7:10 PM, David Donnelly da...@gnuattitude.ca
wrote:

  
  

  
  Sam I also have the 2 blade Martec and a 26. I have not
found poor performance in reverse but I don't do it a bunch
either. Can push just fine going forward.
  
  
  David
  
  
  
  
  
Sent from Samsung
  Mobile
  
  
  
  
   Original message 
  From: Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com
  
  Date: 10-20-2013 5:00 PM (GMT-07:00) 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props 
  
  
  Sam,
  I have a two blade folding Martec prop that goes 7 kts
forward and four kts directly sideways in reverse. Going
with a Gori this winter.

Harry


Sent from my iPhone 6Beta
  
  
On Oct 19, 2013, at 20:21, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
wrote:

  
  

  
  This winters project is a folding/feathering prop.
  I've just sent off inquiries to:
  Flexofold
  Max Prop
  Slipstream
  
  Anyone got any comments/observations/likes/dislikes.
  Any experience good or bad with any type of
  folding/feathering prop would be useful.
  Any other manufacturers recommended.
  
  Now is your chance to get in on a real sailing topic -
  folding/feathering props OR rum!
  
  sam :-)
  CC 26 Liquorice
  Ghost Lake Alberta
  

  
  
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Re: Stus-List List changes

2013-10-20 Thread sam . c . salter
Yeah, working here!‎  sam :-) From: StuSent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 2:44 PMTo: CC Email ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List List changes



Last nite our list was moved to new servers. Just checking to make 
sure all is working.

Stu
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Re: Stus-List Stus-Another engine starting problem?

2013-09-27 Thread sam . c . salter
That sounds like the solenoid stuck if it wouldn't even click.Take off the starter (solenoid is on the starter) and get it reconditioned.   sam :-) From: Richard N. BushSent: Friday, September 27, 2013 3:41 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Stus-Another engine starting problem?
OK, here's my problem, please let me know the collective wisdom of the fleet! I have a 1987 33-II; Yanmar 2GM; the engine has been running fine for the past two years (which is as long as I've owned it); standard routine maintenance and winterization (oil and filter replaced); batteries in good condition;



Today we had to motor for about 2 hours, running at 2400 rpms, at 6.3 knots, with no issues. We docked at a restaurant for about 1/2 hour or so, and then when we went to restart the engine, the alarm whistle went on but nothing else, the engine would not turn over, or even "click"; after several tries, we tried tapping on the starter with the end of a screw driver whilepushing the start switch, and presto, the engine started immediately! So, is this the same issue as has been recently discussed, (insufficient wiring to the switch, poor grounding to the engine, etc) or something else? If more info is needed, let me know, and I'll gladly provide...



This has never happened before so we were surprised when it happened. Many thanks for all your help. 





Richard


1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 684;








Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255





CnC-List@cnc-list.c

 



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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem

2013-09-20 Thread sam . c . salter
I had the same problem.3 or 4 tries and it would start, ‎but a little disconcerting.Wiring was 30+ years old so I replaced all battery to starter/1,2,all switch /engine ground wires. Bought them pre made with battery clamps and end connectors from auto section in Canadian Tire ($90 about)Turns over first time, every time now! ‎Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: IndigoSent: Friday, September 20, 2013 9:49 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem













Recently Indigo has developed what is currently annoying
problem, but could become more serious. After turning the key (and
getting the low oil-pressure buzzer), when I press the starter button,
absolutely nothing happens. I press it again, and it usually starts right
up. Occasionally more pushes on the button are required. Is the remedy
going to be simply replacing the push-button ignition switch or am I likely
facing something more to fix?



Indigo – 36MKIII

Southport CT 














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Re: Stus-List AC - Time limit?

2013-09-20 Thread sam . c . salter
Well there you go then - that's all right!   sam :-) From: Paul BakerSent: Friday, September 20, 2013 9:41 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List AC - Time limit?40 minute race fits neatly into a 1 hour programme with commercials.Not a coincidence.On 13-09-20 08:22 PM, Colin Kilgour wrote: I'm not disputing the facts, but rather the stupidity behind such a short limit. Cheers Colin On 9/20/13, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote: Time limits are. There's no fudge factor built in, ie it's not 40 minutes...or so! Andy Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Sep 20, 2013, at 17:30, Colin Kilgour charliekilo...@gmail.com wrote: How the heck do you sail at 15 to 20 kts and NOT finish within the time limit? New Zealand was robbed, imo. Cheers Colin -- Sent from my mobile device ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List two helms?

2013-09-02 Thread sam . c . salter
I've sailed a lot of twin helmed Benneteau's and Jenneau's while chartering.  I like how they open up the cockpit; Give straight through access to the transom deck; Provide a ‎space for the helmsman that's out of the cockpit traffic ; Put you out to weather when you're on the helm.I've also sailed a CC 115 with the biggest mf helm you ever saw. Lovely boat to sail but when in port the cockpit space is a pain in the arse.Remember you spend a lot of time on the dock.Think about the sort of sailing you do and who you do it with. Do you spend a lot of time in dock/ in the cockpit? Are you a racer?‎Sail a twin helmed boat - it might be just what you / your wife is looking for!(if it's good enough for Dennis Connor etc. etc.. sam :-) From: Colin KilgourSent: Monday, September 2, 2013 9:41 AMTo: w...@wbryant.com; CC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List two helms?I sailed a double helm Pacer 42 from Tortola to Bermuda. (It's pretty much a fat-transomed South African sled). From a driving perspective, the double helm is really nice. You can be high side or low side depending on your preference and sight line requirements. 
However, unless you're going to duplicate all instruments at each helm, you may end up moving between them more more than you'd like to. Putting the instruments in the centre is a compromise that just means you won't be able to see the instruments from either helm seat. Keep in mind that we all wear polarized sunglasses - so looking at the instruments from an angle all the time will really piss you off in a hurry. 
So basically, if you go the double helm route, budget for dual instrument displays and you'll be happy.Cheers,ColinPS - It's only 8 months after New Year's Eve. (so much for Wal's math!) 
On Mon, Sep 2, 2013 at 11:12 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:
Double your pleasure, double your fun, with Doublemint Doublemint Doublemint gum.  (Sorry, but when I was 3 years old I had a real crush on those animated twins that danced across the TV...
which just goes to show the power of Madison Ave back then.)

You're right that you'll double the maintenance. You would probably mount your expensive instruments on the back of the big party table, so you can see them from either helm, and put a simple multi-control by each wheel.


Some guys are really into big wide hineys, but I like them skinny. They say that a wide stern surfs better downwind. My skinny IOR boat surfs pretty darn well, and frankly has surfed through some pretty scary stuff. When's the last time you saw a fat surfer? VBG


I think the point of dual wheels is so you can see well when heading to windward at a steep angle of heel. If you have a lot of crew that makes sense, but if you're pleasure sailing you probably won't have a full crew. If you're pleasure sailing you'll probably will have at least one type of self-steering system. If you have a self-steering system, you can leave the helm alone and deal with lines, make a sandwich, or even take a good look around.


Madison Avenue strikes again... Many new boats are designed to sell to retirees, who have seen pictures of 'round the world' racers on performance monohulls, which usually have two wheels. Then they get 'practical' and order an in-mast furling system, which is convenient but really can't provide decent sail shape. Then they go out on the ocean and get scared witless and spend the rest of their retirement years motoring or at the dock. But that big wide transom, and that big cockpit table, provides room for dock parties where they swap stories that they read about in Sail Magazine. And even 32 foot boats have two 'bathrooms.'


Uh oh, I think I'm ranting. Gotta go.

Wal

PS. Happy Labor Day. BTW, it's called Labor Day because it's nine months after New Years Eve... it actually has nothing to do with work.




Richard wrote:

I imagine twice as much maintenance, twice as many instruments to purchase, and twice as much to go wrong. snip

Has anyone sailed a twin-helm boat? What were your impressions? Do we want one? Is this the future of boat design?



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Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry

2013-08-26 Thread sam . c . salter
I've got an extra zero on my build docs too.Plate in the cockpit has one extra 0 compared to the # on the transom.   Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: jtsailsSent: Monday, August 26, 2013 9:47 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - SorryHey Rick,Got those winches installed, wow what an improvement! Thanks for the help.Sorry for my goof with the money.Need an address to send the $100ThanksJames- Original Message - From: "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.netTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 10:15 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Interesting. Hull number 100 (some of the internal documents in my build file show my boat as 380047 with an extra 0, even though the HIN is  38047.) I have been told that production of the 38 mk2 started around 090, and around September of 1976. I would think that would make Delaney a 1977 model. Something similar to your situation happened with my 25, and I didn't  notice it until I moved to NC and had to get it titled. The HIN on the plate in  the cockpit has an extra 0 on it, so the HIN and the metal plate did not  match. Neither did the bill of sale from Maryland and my registration from Pennsylvania match the HIN molded into the transom. Had a heck of a time convincing the NCDMV to give me a title and NC registration numbers. I looked up Delany in the USCG Documentation database. Besides the partial HIN, I also noticed that your gross tonnage is greater than Imzadi's, but the net tonnage is the same. Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:32 PM To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Rick, To throw some more confusion into the picture, My 1976 38 does not have  any marking on the transom, only the manufacturer plate in the cockpit, and  the serial number does not have any MIC letters, just numbers. It is stamped with the number "380100-76". All of the paperwork that I have shows the serial number from the plate, no MIC letter codes. I don't have the builder's file, but I think I'll call South Shore and see if I can get it. James Delany 1976 38 MkII Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: "Bill Bina" billb...@sbcglobal.net To: "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.net Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 11:11 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry Your 25 was no doubt built in Canada and has an accurate MIC for the Canadian plant, as the Rhode Island plant didn't exist when that boat was built. When it was built, CCY was still the legal MIC for CC Yachts of Canada. That changed irrevocably when the Rhode Island plant went online in February 1976 and the CCY MIC was assigned to Rhode Island. Something is amiss with your paperwork if it says your 38 was built in the U.S.,  yet has a ZCC MIC. There are at least a couple issues with that. The first is that, as I stated, those numbers are not governed by the manufacturer.  You cannot randomly use different Social Security numbers, either. The other issue is that I do not believe the Middletown plant was building 38's in 1976. The molds were in Canada. Maybe they left out a step, or fudged the paper work for some unknown reason. If that hull has a ZCC MIC, then it was laid up in Canada, or else laws were broken. If the paperwork said  the incomplete hull was exported to Rhode Island for completion, then shipped back to Canada for some unexpected further work that could not be done in Rhode Island, or a sale fell through, I suppose that would be plausible. The MIC portion of the HIN legally indicates the point of origin. Bill Bina On 7/12/2013 10:13 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Bill; My 25 is certainly a CCY and the customs documentation shows it was made in Canada and shipped to the US in very early 75. The 38, which is a Mk1, HIN 047, has the manufacturers code ZCC. It was made in Rhode Island in early 76, and was listed as ZCC on the customs documentation when shipped to NOTL for "addition of optional equipment", and also as ZCC when reimported to Mt. Clemens, MI. I'd need to check the builders file on the boat, but IIRC, the second customs paperwork shows the Canadian content to be about $2k of a total value of about $36K. As I said, I'm curious whether anyone on the list has a 25 mk1 that is not a CCY. Now I'm curious to know if there are and 38s with HIN of 89 or 

Re: Stus-List Splicing Amsteel

2013-08-23 Thread sam . c . salter
Google "Amsteel eye splice" or something similar. There's lots of information on line. Even videos.   sam :-) From: IndigoSent: Friday, August 23, 2013 10:35 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Splicing Amsteel













I have just been persuaded by West Marine to use Amsteel to
make a short (2ft) strop to raise the upper swivel on my roller furler so that
the entry/exit angle to the sheave is better to prevent a halyard wrap. In the
store, they made it sound so easy to splice round a thimble.!



Essentially they told me to pass the end of the line through
the working section, and then back through one side and feed the end up inside
the working section. Sounded easy! Anyone done this and got any tips? I can
get the first stage done, but do not seem to be able to get the loose end
inside the working section!



Jonathan

Indigo 35-3 Southport CT












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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] 1985 CC - 33 Missing Cunningham

2013-08-18 Thread sam . c . salter
Jake,There's one small difference - and I know you know this too - tightening the halyard cups the leech; tightening the Cunningham just brings the draft forward.Significant when you're looking for that extra 2/10 ths of a knot!  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Jake BrodersenSent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 10:45 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM] 1985 CC - 33 Missing CunninghamSam,Good catch, just like tightening the halyard…only from the bottom. I’ll claim a senior moment.JakeFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 7:39 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM] 1985 CC - 33 Missing CunninghamJake,The Cunningham doesn't flatten the lower third of the mainsail. It moves the draft fore and aft as the wind changes.The outhaul flattens the lower third. sam :-) 403-617-6280From: Jake BrodersenSent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 1:34 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM] 1985 CC - 33 Missing CunninghamRay,The cunningham runs from a cringle a foot or two above the main tack fitting down to deck level where it is often directed via turning blocks to a cleat or stopper near the companionway.It serves to pull down on the main, flattening the lower third of the sail in higher winds. I have always seen them run back to the cockpit, but I suppose they could just as well tie off at the base of the mast to a small cleat. I just haven’t seen one done like that. My boat has a hook attached to the end of the cunningham so we can remove it when stowing the main (rolling it up).Does that help?JakeJake BrodersenCC 35 Mk-IIIMidnight MistressHampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond MacklinSent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 12:22 PMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comSubject: [SPAM]Stus-List 1985 CC - 33 Missing CunninghamI purchased a 1985 CC - 33 and I am missing the cunningham. Does anyone have a diagram of where it runs on the boat or could explain it to me. Thanks,Ray MacklinLibertyville, ILLakeHouse___
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Re: Stus-List Main sheet traveler

2013-08-18 Thread sam . c . salter
I've had nothing but good experiences with Rig-Rite.But call them! ...and have your shit together ; they don't suffer fools gladly!!!  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Ted DrossosSent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 1:41 PMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Main sheet travelerRigrite.com has many replacement parts for obsolete hardware. If Kenyon was the OEM for your traveler, give them a call. They still carry many replacement parts for this system. Just be aware that Rigrite has terrible customer service and almost never answers e-mail messages. It took me 6 months to get a new boom extrusion from them. They know that they are the only game in town when it comes to finding obsolete parts so they really don't care much about keeping their customers happy. On the positive side, they do have a good selection. Keep on top of them, constantly.Ted DrossosCC 29-2H2OTSent from AOL Mobile Mail___
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 62

2013-08-18 Thread sam . c . salter
Your pretty pushy Stu!!!  sam :-) From: StuSent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 5:47 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 62





And: the first items I suggest new owners 
replace are the mainsheet blocks and lines. 

The first thing to change is the subject line in any 
emails sent to the list. 

I did not change the subject line just so you can see 
that the subject has nothing to do with the content.

And secondly is to remove the redundant email content – 
the last message is fine but we don’t need the 8-10 messages in your 
reply. Once it gets too big it will be rejected.

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Main sheet traveler.

2013-08-16 Thread sam . c . salter
At some point, newer technology is a better option than rebuilding the old traveler.This is one of those times.You could probably find second hand stuff on the Web, but it's still going to be a 30 year old traveler.I second replacing with Harken.Get the track with adjustable hold down bolts. They will fit your old holes so no filling and redrilling.Fit a car that adjusts under load. That way you can play the traveller instead of the mainsheet - a much better option.Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta   From: Luv Too SailSent: Friday, August 16, 2013 9:23 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Main sheet traveler.I have an 1980 32'er Does anyone know the OEM of the main sheet traveler and if the parts are still available?  I blew up the center portion during an uncontrolled jibe yesterday. ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Jib question

2013-08-12 Thread sam . c . salter
‎Allen,I have a 26.My boat has a ProFurl furler, installed by the previous owner. It good quality. I priced a replacement last year - would have been $1,250 cdn.However, Harken and Furlex have good reputations too.If you do install a furler, remember that your genoa will need a new luff tape (to feed into the foil) - about $175 and a furling sock or UV stripes on the leech and foot - about $350. You may also need a new forestay, depending which furler you buy.Don't even consider CDI furlers!If you're handy, they can be installed without taking down the mast. Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: Allen WhiteSent: Monday, August 12, 2013 8:21 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: awh...@thegateguys.comSubject: Stus-List Roller Furling Jib questionI have a 26 and would like to add a furling head sail.  I would love to hearany suggestions for a small boat ?Allen White'77 C  C 26___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar starting

2013-08-12 Thread sam . c . salter
‎I had the same problem for a couple of seasons.Would always crank eventually, but those first 2 or 3 presses of the button with just a click were  not reassuring.I ended up replacing all my main power cables - 5 in all - I have 2 batteries and a 1,2,All power switch. Purchased them pre made, off the shelf for about $90.Could have been the ground connections, or corrosion along the wires. But decided 30 years was a good life expectancy and renewed the lot. sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Ronald B. FrerkerSent: Monday, August 12, 2013 8:56 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Ronald B. FrerkerSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar startingI had a similar problem where I had to punch the start button 6-8 times to get the starter to crank. Had already replaced the starter button. Finally would just click and then go dead; not even the buzzer.Ended up being corrosion inside the sheathing in the battery cables. Cut back a few inches of cable until it was clean and now seems to start immediately.Apparently the corrosion among the copper strands has enough resistance that it heats up and
 sucks the battery power enough so it won't have the potential to flip the solenoid.RonWild CheriSTLFrom: Brent Driedger bren...@highspeedcrow.ca To: CC List Canada cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Monday, August 5, 2013 8:38 PM Subject: Stus-List Yanmar starting   Hey everyone. My Yanmar 1GM10 is slowly getting more and more difficult to start. With full battery charge, good ground and contact, I'm finding the only way to get the starter to spin is to give quick taps to the start button. If I hold it, it just saps the power system and everything shuts down briefly. Is this a sign of the starter becoming weak?Brent DCC 27-5Lake Winnipeg
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Stus-List Folding Prop

2013-08-12 Thread sam . c . salter
 ‎My 26 currently has a 12" x 8" RH, 3 blade, fixed prop. 7/8" shaft. (2GM20F - 13 1/2 hp)It's getting to the stage where I should start looking for a folding or feathering prop.What do I need!I've got room for up to about 14".I'm on a mooring, so reverseing is not a big issue. sam :-) 403-617-6280

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop

2013-08-12 Thread sam . c . salter
Racing and sailing. Not so much motoring.I need less drag and more knots :-)  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Martin DeYoungSent: Monday, August 12, 2013 2:11 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop







Sam,

How do you plan to use the prop? Racing, cruising, or a mix, do you expect to motor a significant amount of time, and do you expect to motor into strong headwinds
 and seas?

Budget?

Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 12:54 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop




‎My 26 currently has a 12" x 8" RH, 3 blade, fixed prop. 7/8" shaft. (2GM20F - 13 1/2 hp)


It's getting to the stage where I should start looking for a folding or feathering prop.





What do I need!


I've got room for up to about 14".


I'm on a mooring, so reverseing is not a big issue.



sam :-) 403-617-6280




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Stus-List New Sails

2013-08-11 Thread sam . c . salter
 ‎If anyone is considering new sails, now- August - is the best time to buy.I just ordered a new kevlar 135 from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Ordered it Friday, they are starting construction Tuesday, should have it by next week. 20% off.They are sitting around twiddling their thumbs right now - nothing to do. They tell me there are better deals now than at the boat shows.Sam_SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta 

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Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 Shrouds and Speaders

2013-08-10 Thread sam . c . salter
If my leeward spreader was wiggling around, I'd check the tension on my shrouds. ...and maybe get a second opinion from another rigger! ...or do the job myself.‎  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Tom O'KeeffeSent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 8:34 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 Shrouds and SpeadersMakes sense. Thanks.-Original Message- From: Rich KnowlesSent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 11:54 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 Shrouds and SpeadersDrill holes through the spreader and base when they are properly aligned to a=commodate the next size up pin.Rich(mobile)On 2012-08-11, at 11:38, O'Keeffe Thomas thosokee...@yahoo.com wrote:I have a similar issue this year on my CC 29-2: under sail, the spreader ti= on the leeward side moves fore and aft several inches.  My rigger took a l=ok.The spreader goes over the spreader base at the mast, and is pinned to the b=se with a clevis pin.   The hole in the spreader has elongated, which allow= the spreader to work back and forth slightly on the base, which translates=to a wider range of motion at the tip of the spreader.  The motion occurs o=ly when that side is leeward.  When loaded on the windward side, there is n= motion.  In my case, the rigger (a very reputable guy) advised it is not d=ngerous.  But it is annoying.This is a long term wear issue that I just noticed this year.  I think it ha= been doing it for a while, but this is the first time I sailed with jib on=y, so I was able to see it.  With the main up it is not obvious.Would appreciate any ideas to repair the spreader to eliminate the elongatio= in the hole.Tom___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Sail Numbers

2013-08-09 Thread sam . c . salter
 ‎I know it's been discussed before, but I wasn't listening?Just ordered a new kevlar Genoa. ‎What's the deal with sail numbers? How do you decide what number?Is hull serial number legit?Sam SalterCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta‎

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Re: Stus-List Primary winches for MkII 27'

2013-08-05 Thread sam . c . salter
Not quite the same size, but my 26 has had Lewmar 16ST's on the combing for about 4 seasons now. I sail with a 135 on a roller furler. Sheets are Yale PhD.‎Works perfectly according to my foresail trimmer.Definitely don't need a 2 speed unless you're not very good at tacking. SamCC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Paul BakerSent: Monday, August 5, 2013 3:03 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Primary winches for MkII 27'Hi Listers,I'm seriously considering replacing the current (I assume factory standard) Barient single-speed winches.  I'm not at the boat at the moment, I think they are 16s.  Anyway, I am looking at the Anderson 28ST (two speed, self tailers).  Is the 28 too big, too small, what do you have on your 27?Cheers,Paul.Orange Crush1974 27MkII___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Primary winches for MkII 27'

2013-08-05 Thread sam . c . salter
Whatever you decide to buy, self tailers are the next best investment after new sails!  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Paul BakerSent: Monday, August 5, 2013 6:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Primary winches for MkII 27'
  

  
  
Sam - You're lucky to have a foresail
  trimmer, my foresail trimmer is the same guy that is doing the
  main sail trim, and the helming, and operating the engine, and
  hoisting the sails, and getting the boat to and from the dock,
  i.e. me. I don't have an autohelm, nor even a wheel brake, so
  something easy to operate is my primary need as I almost
  exclusively single-hand (quite literally).
  Rick - it sounds like you've sailed some nicely over-winched
  boats, my 24' had Barient 12s if I recall correctly, and they were
  fine on a boat that size.
  Steve - they must have put bigger winches on later boats, I
  checked today and they are definitely 16s on there.
  
  I might pull the trigger on a pair of shiny stainless Andersons if
  they physically fit, I have to get the measurements. It's only
  money *sigh*.
  Cheers,
  Paul.
  
  
  On 13-08-05 04:46 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:


  Not quite the same size, but my 26 has had
Lewmar 16ST's on the combing for about 4 seasons now. I sail
with a 135 on a roller furler. Sheets are Yale PhD.
  ‎Works perfectly
according to my foresail trimmer.
  Definitely don't
need a 2 speed unless you're not very good at tacking. 
  
  
  Sam
  CC 26 Liquorice
  Ghost Lake Alberta
  

  

  

  
From: Paul Baker
Sent: Monday, August 5, 2013 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Primary winches for MkII
  27'
  

  

  
  
  Hi Listers,
I'm seriously considering replacing the current (I assume
factory 
standard) Barient single-speed winches. I'm not at the boat at
the 
moment, I think they are 16s. Anyway, I am looking at the
Anderson 28ST 
(two speed, self tailers). Is the 28 too big, too small, what do
you 
have on your 27?
Cheers,
Paul.

Orange Crush
1974 27MkII

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Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles

2013-07-27 Thread sam . c . salter
Dennis,I keep my sheets one continuous length, find the middle, push the loop through the clew and tie a luggage knot - slides over the shrouds lickety -split!Now if you change foresails a lot, that's a different story!I use Yale PhD - lovely stuff!  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Dennis C.Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 4:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shacklesJust installed the new genoa sheets with soft shackles. Haven't gone out to try them but they HAVE to work better than bowline knots. They are smooth. I think they will slide across the forward lower shrouds without hanging up. I took pics if anyone is interested. Dennis C.Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LASent from my iPhone___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Fw: Boom Vang for CC 27 Mk III

2013-07-20 Thread sam . c . salter
+1I've had a Garhauer rigid boom vang for about 10 years. Good price for a good chunk of stainless and a worthwhile upgrade. Also gets rid of the topping lift! sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Dennis C.Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 9:09 AMTo: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Vang for CC 27 Mk IIIPeter,A very good option would be install a hinged vang bracket near the bottom of your mast. Garhauer makes these for their rigid boom vangs and will custom make one to fit your mast. Their pricing is fairly reasonable.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAFrom: Peter Fell prf...@gmail.com To:
 "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" CnC-List@cnc-list.com  Sent: Friday, July 19, 2013 9:18 PM Subject: Stus-List Boom Vang for CC 27 Mk III   



My CC 27 has a mast-step that looks like this:

http://imageshack.us/a/img191/407/ubt7.jpg

The previous owner had attached the 4:1 purchase boom vang to the 45 degree 
side plate which has resulted in bending the side plate!

It was recommended to me to use a boom/mast bail bolted across the vertical 
portion of the mast-step bracket at the aft-most set of holes, with a bolt and 
filler ‘tube’ to avoid compressing the mast step bracket. Or to replace the aft 
mast-retention pin with the same set-up.

Dimensions of the mast step (‘vertical’ bracket) are:

Outside width = 5 inches
Inside width = 4-1/4 inches
Hole diameter = 7/8 inches
Pin diameter = 5/8 inches

2 problems I am finding:

1) I can’t find a 5-inch wide bail
2) The larger size bails I have found (maybe 4 inch wide is the largest 
I’ve seen?) use a smaller bolt than 5/8 inches and no meat to drill out the 
holes in them, so there would be a lot of ‘slop’ there.

I’m also concerned that if the boom vang can bend that mast-step side 
plate, what’s it going to do to a side-loaded bail and/or the vertical mast-step 
bracket?

So ... perhaps a mast tang / hound? (much as I hate drilling holes in 
the mast ... but multiple holes would spread the load). I have read 
somewhere that part of the side of the standard CC mast section is thicker 
which helps with this sort of thing? Can anyone verify? Sorry, didn’t measure 
the mast width. There’s also the sail track there that would complicate a tang / 
hound installation.

By the way, the previous owner also bent the heck out of the through-bolt 
on the boom bail. I’ve replaced that with a new SS bolt 

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Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 prop location

2013-07-20 Thread sam . c . salter
I have the original manual for my 26.There's a page that lists original engines  props for 25's up to 38's.It's dated May 1977.It lists the standard engine for the CC 30 as a Universal with a Westerbeke diesel as an option.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Gary NylanderSent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 4:06 PMTo: Ronald B. Frerker; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 prop location






Rick's boat is number one! Early '70's. Mine is 1980 and 
others on the list are late '70's up to about 1981. I am not sure if there was a 
factory switch or if someone may have made it when changing engines. Mine still 
has its original engine and accessories. My factory manual does not mention an 
Atomic 4, but some of the earlier ones had them, so maybe that was when they did 
a switch??

Gary

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ronald B. 
  Frerker 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 10:50 
  AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 
  prop location
  
  
  Rick,
  What 
  year is your boat? Did CC make a change at some point or was it an 
  option? Or based on power plant? Anyone have any ideas on the 
  difference?
  Ron
  Wild 
  Cheri
  STL
  
  
  
  
  
  
  From: 
  Rick Bushie rickbushie...@gmail.comTo: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 5:43 
  AMSubject: Re: Stus-List 
  CC 30 MK1 backing help
  Anchovy's prop is on centerline.Rick 
  BushieAnchovy
  
  

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Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 backing help

2013-07-18 Thread sam . c . salter
So you can pull the shaft without dropping the rudder.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Nate FlesnessSent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:10 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 backing helpOffset prop on my 30-1 here in Wisconsin(always wondered just why they did that?)Nate":Sarah Jean"1980 30-1 #602Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake SuperiorCornicopia, WIOn Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 10:39 AM, Robert Gallagher trys...@gmail.com wrote:
First off, I have to correct... Not all 30 MKI boats have an offset prop. In fact, I believe that most did not have an offset prop. None of the ones I have seen in the US have an offset prop. I have seen photos of them that do so yes there are hulls with the offset prop.


What motor do you have? If it's and A-4, I would seriously consider replacing it with an inexpensive little three blade from Indigo. It will work wonders at reducing prop walk, give you a punch in reverse/stopping. It increase engine RPM and give you a little more power motoring through seas, chop and/or a headwind.


It's not perfect but I found a marked improvement.YMMV.
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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Wheel to Tiller Conversion

2013-07-18 Thread sam . c . salter
I've got a 26 with tiller steering.I'll take some pics when I'm at the boat.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: JPDSent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:19 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List CC 26 Wheel to Tiller ConversionWondering if anyone out there has seen (or has) a CC with tiller steering?I've remove the Edson wheel steering to gain a bit of simplicity below decksand more room above.I've designed and machined a new rudder post head but would like some ideaof what the geometry of the original tiller and gooseneck fitting lookedlike.The original brochure shows a tiller with wheel steering optional so I'mguessing there must be one out there somewhere with a tiller.I don't believe that I must see a 26. I'll bet that any reasonably sized CC(smaller or larger than my 26) would employ the same basic design philosophyin that area.Anyone want to convert from tiller to wheel?Make you a heck of a deal!!Thanks.Jack Downeydc...@sover.net-Original Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Ofcnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.comSent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 12:00 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 59Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to	cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit	http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.comor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to	cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.comYou can reach the person managing the list at	cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.comWhen replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."Today's Topics:   1.  CC 30 MK1 backing help (Robert Gallagher)   2. Re:  CC 30 MK1 backing help (Dennis C.)   3. Re:  CC 30 MK1 backing help (Ed Levert)--Message: 1Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 11:39:12 -0400From: Robert Gallagher trys...@gmail.comTo: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 backing helpMessage-ID:	CAGue27q=usv-ya+up8evfr9pvsas6wec1e3nwrfwv91darz...@mail.gmail.comContent-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"First off, I have to correct... Not all 30 MKI boats have an offset prop. In fact, I believe that most did not have an offset prop.  None of the onesI have seen in the US have an offset prop.  I have seen photos of them thatdo so yes there are hulls with the offset prop.What motor do you have?  If it's and A-4, I would seriously considerreplacing it with an inexpensive little three blade from Indigo.  It willwork wonders at reducing prop walk, give you a punch in reverse/stopping. It increase engine RPM and give you a little more power motoring throughseas, chop and/or a headwind.It's not perfect but I found a marked improvement.YMMV.-- next part --An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL:http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130718/5e92e75e/attachment-0001.html--Message: 2Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 08:44:53 -0700 (PDT)From: "Dennis C." capt...@yahoo.comTo: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 backing helpMessage-ID:	1374162293.89575.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.comContent-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"Curtis,Like others have suggested, go out in open water and practice.? Maybe use acouple of milk jugs with bricks for anchors to simulate the entrance to yourslip.You first need to understand the differences in and effects of "prop walk","prop wash" and rudder action.Prop walk is a sideways motion created by the rotation of the prop.? Youwill only notice it at very low speed.? As soon as there is any speed, propwalk is overcome by rudder action.Prop wash is the action of the rudder as the water expelled by the proppasses across the rudder.? It only occurs when th engine is in forward.Rudder action is the effect the rudder has on boat direction.? Rudder actiononly occurs when water is passing across the rudder either from the motionof the boat, forward or reverse, or prop wash (forward only).If your boat has a "standard" right hand rotation, prop walk will cause thestern to pull to port at very low speed.? If you practice, you will findprop walk to be a handy way to maneuver a boat.As you approach your slip, it is important to note the wind and current.? Across wind will affect the bow more than the stern.? Current will affect theentire boat.? If as you indicate, 

Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

2013-07-16 Thread sam . c . salter
"I like a nice tight luff"Luff tension is used to position the max draft in the correct location. Some where a round 35% to 40% on a foresail. Halyard tension in adjusted for wind strength continuously.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Stevan PlavsaSent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 11:34 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - stickingWow, thanks all .. my mail client wasn't updating so I didn't even think that my original post made it to the list! I just started another thread, sorry about that.Halyard tension may be it, I put a new headsail on this season and I like a nice taught luff on my headsail ... hmmm.
It's not halyard wrap, that was my first guess but the binoculars showed me no halyard wrap or anything funny happening at the mast head.Second season with the boat :)
The designer, Heider Funck emailed me back and said my symptoms sound most like the extrusions riding the top of the turnbuckle. I will adjust halyard tension first and see if that makes a difference before messing with the drum.
I put new furling line on just last week! My genoa is a 155% so yeah, the drum fills up but that's not what's causing this.Thanks,
SteveSuhana, CC 32On Mon, Jul 15, 2013 at 11:35 PM, randy spins...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Steve, seems to me this is your first season with the boat? Never ass-u-me, but if we allow the PO probably used it as a sail boat set up as is, the most common problem I’ve found is halyard tension. Probably because of no restrainer, it’s more important, but there seems to be a sweet spot between too tight and too loose, that “goldilocks” likes. While at the dock you might experiment w/ just an inch or so at a time of halyard tension or release. Lot easier than climbing the mast to install more goodies. And that “assumes” of course there’s no wrap from another halyard, etc.
randy
Tamanawas29-II
Hood River, OR
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 6:09 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
Hi All.It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other CCs used this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay action but I'm hoping not.
According to their site it can beinstalledwithout dropping the forestay so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. I'm waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
Any ideas?Thanks,
SteveSuhana, CC 32Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

2013-07-15 Thread sam . c . salter
To stop furling lines binding up in the drum, de core the furling line that wraps around the drum. Leave the core in at the end of the line where you handle it. This will reduce the bulk on the drum by half.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Martin DeYoungSent: Monday, July 15, 2013 11:20 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking







 We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
 causing the foil to sag giving the impression of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
 fight the curve.

With Calypso’s Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be “tight” to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap. Once in a while the furling line
 will bind up in the drum, especially when handling the #1 headsails (150%).

Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of honeys...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking




Swt.






In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
capt...@yahoo.com writes:


Coincidence. I'm dropping an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV

Dennis C 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest" primeinter...@gmail.com wrote:

 We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
 causing the foil to sag giving the impression of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
 fight the curve.
 
 Ed
 
 Prime Interest
 1982 CC 38 Landfall
 Toronto, Canada





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Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry

2013-07-11 Thread sam . c . salter
There are no marks for the 26. They were only built for 3 or 4 years.Quite a tender boat, but it's all relative and sails like a CC.They are usually in good condition as they weren't raced like the 25 or 27.PHRF is around 219. I don't think it's an offshore boat.sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Woody Hamel Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:31 AMTo: Steve Thomas ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - SorryHi Steve,I just want to say hi and I'm pretty sure I married a friend of yours Dave Body's daughter Jean. It would be nice to meet you when we come down St. Thomas and to Port Stanley's way. It is a small world.Our HIN is ZCC260270477.  Does this mean made in Canada (where I don't know), 26 footer, 27 not sure, and I guess April of 1977. We are new to the C and C's but I certainly love the boat! It is very spacious with lots of deck for moving around. I find it hard to believe it is a 26. Can anyone else share what they believe sets the 26 apart from other 26 footers?  Being a 1977 does that make it a Mark III?  The interior looks like the pics in the picture board.  We have 2 kids under 2, I have put mesh netting around the boat and have set up a harness for the older 20 month old. We go to the boat almost everyday, and have gone sailing a few times, the kids love it! Does anyone have any ideas or stories of making sailing with this age group easier? TV is helpful, we use the leaf antenna which has been working great. Put it on deck thru the front hatch, and  I have even closed the hatch on the cable without hurting it.  Another question is regarding offshore rating which my internet search indicated was not very good. What makes an offshore rating, and what would you guys consider the offshore abilites of the 26?Well quite a long message, I will finish by saying there are a lot of very knowledgeable members of this group and I have enjoyed, and been learning a lot from the posts! Have a great day. Cheers,Woody HamelGoldfinch 26 Mk?Pickering ON, Frenchman's Bay, lake ontario.Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.-Original Message-From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.caDate: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 16:08:43 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - SorryThe M stands for the model year format of HIN, as opposed to an actual year format. There are 4 recognized formats altogether, each similar but with variations in the data fields. If your HIN had ended with an A for example, it would have beenproduced in August 1982, but still been considered a 1983 boat since the next model year starts in August. Since you boat was built in May, it was May 1983 since the model and calendar year coincide from January to July.  Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII  -Original Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of IndigoSent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:50 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List HIN Again - SorryI know this has been discussed umpteen times, but I have never thought to try and decipher Indigo's HIN until now and realize I have deleted all those useful emails  Indigo's HIN is  ZCC35039M83J  From memory I think this means  ZCC - made in Canada? 35 - Model 35 M - no clue 83 - laid up in 1983 J - 10th month - (Month A being August, so J would be MAY - so May, 1983?  Am I correct, and can anyone tell me what the "M" stands for?  Jonathan Indigo 25MK III Southport CT   ___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?

2013-07-07 Thread sam . c . salter
Check out Conch Charters. Boats are from Sunsail  Moorings fleets when they are chucked out after 5 years. So boats are a little older and scratched up a bit more, but substantially cheaper. A 43 foot Jenneau will cost you about $2900 for 9 days.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Tom BSent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:30 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?We are thinking about doing a bareboat charter in the Virgin Island next winter.  Never sailed there.Any references, thoughts, itinerary suggestions, wisdom, wisecracks appreciated.Tom BuscagliaAlera CC 37+/40Vashon WA___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?

2013-07-07 Thread sam . c . salter
I've sailed right up to the start of the peak season on November 15. Always found a mooring buoy. Also sailed last week of January this year. Plenty of mooring buoys.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Roth ArthurSent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:40 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?Tom,We've chartered several times with the Moorings both at Tortola and MarigotBay. Although it's been several years since our last charter with theMoorings, our experiences with them were all excellent.The BVI are a great place to sail. It's fairly well protected, distancesbetween anchorages are short and the anchorages are good. The only thingmight be that it may be crowded in the peak season.Art RothGodspeed CC 36Palmetto, FL-Original Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom BSent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 1:30 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Bareboat charter BVI?We are thinking about doing a bareboat charter in the Virgin Island nextwinter.  Never sailed there.Any references, thoughts, itinerary suggestions, wisdom, wisecracksappreciated.Tom BuscagliaAlera CC 37+/40Vashon WA___This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Titan winch handles

2013-07-06 Thread sam . c . salter
It's common knowledge that red things are a little tacky!Red T shirts run in the wash; "Woman in the red dress "; if you're stuck in traffic, there's always a red car at the front of the queue ; red indians - need I say more?It's not the manufacturer - it's the colour.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: dwight veinotSent: Saturday, July 6, 2013 4:41 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Titan winch handles
















Someone on the list commented a few
weeks ago about the quality of Titan winch handles and at the time I could only
say that the Titan I have used for many years has work very well: strong, reliable
locking mechanism and not too bulky and no noticeable flex under load.
But I have 2 Titans on board, one that I had never used until today, a red
handle and it is completely different than my reliable blue Titan winch handle.
Construction is totally different. I now view the red one as junk
and a safety hazard to boot. It flexed like you would not believe under
light load and flew out of my hand after which or before which I am not
actually sure things happened so fast, the locking mechanism broke free and the
thing went flying out of my hand, like as if it was spring loaded because it
more or less was. The bottom plastic cove piece fell off during this
event and all I could see inside was some foamed material. If there is a piece
of metal under that foam that runs the length of the handle that piece is very
small and not very stiff. Is this thing a cheap knockoff using the Titan
name or has Titan resorted to making a cheaper junk product. It seems you
need to be careful when buying something with the name Titan on a winch handle.
Have a close look at what you have because they can become flying objects under
loaded circumstances.





Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS













From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: July 6, 2013 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List tach and
c0aming question







Apparently, the motor starts - so
there is electricity to the starter. Do the indicator lights on the 'dash'
light up? I know on my 2qm, I can turn off the ignition and the engine runs,
but the tach doesn't work, but the lights do work. Start at the back of the
dash - unfortunately if yours is like mine, there are a bunch of wires led into
bundles and some of those don't do anything. You should be able to see the wire
out of the tach.











It could be the rpm sensor on the
flywheel as well.











Gary





2qm on a 30







- Original Message - 





From: McElwreath, Daniel 





To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com






Sent: Saturday,
July 06, 2013 8:03 AM





Subject: Stus-List
tach and c0aming question











Any
advice appreciated--Tively II is a C C 32 with a 2qm yanmar. The
tach is no longer registering rpm. Not sure if this is an electrical (ie
loose wire) or whether it simply wore out. Any suggestions on
diagnosing? Second question-- I am going to install a bimini,
, one connection to the coaming on each side. Any thoughts on whether I
have to put a backing plate under the coaming( is there access)? or can I
just screw into the coaming?? Thanks for any suggestions. Dan
Mc on City Island.









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No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda to Norfolk

2013-06-30 Thread sam . c . salter
I've never sailed Bermuda, but I've sailed the BVI's and the Bahamas. I prefer the BVI's for the sailing and the destinations. What's Bermuda like compared to the BVI's? Wind? Destinations? Is it one island or are there lots of places to go?  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Colin KilgourSent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 10:07 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda to NorfolkRick,I've sailed to or from Bermuda 8 times and have spent quite a bit oftime on the island over the years.I recommend you and everyong sail down there and enjoy it.CheersColinOn 6/30/13, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: I plan to go north to the Chesapeake by way of Bermuda next summer. I was there in June of 2010, and like you, I spent most of the 36 hours between the arrival of the boat and my departing flight  on boat cleaning, etc. I only had a couple of hours to play tourist and felt cheated, Bermuda is the lushest, greenest, friendliest place I've been in over 30 years of traveling. I definitely want to go back and put in some "tourist" time. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 3:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda to Norfolk Fred, I was only there for about 20 hours and spent 18 on the boat getting it ready or sleeping.  I liked what little I saw.  Even the Customs agents were friendly. We were at the Dinghy Club by ourselves, as the 1-2 racers had left that morning. Joel On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 3:34 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: How did you like St George's?  Were you at the Dinghy Club, or just anchored out?  And BTW, yes the food at Wahoo is good. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jun 27, 2013, at 2:17 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: I thought it was a complement! :) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551-- Sent from my mobile device___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lights

2013-06-28 Thread sam . c . salter
When you start rating stuff on how nice the screw terminals are, you know you need to get out more!  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Knowles RichSent: Friday, June 28, 2013 2:04 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lightsSteve and others:I chose the unit I noted because it has a toroidal transformer which likely makes it a switching unit and, according to the description, it will maintain a constant output regardless of input voltage. Also it has nice screw terminals. Rich KnowlesIndigo. LF38HalifaxOn 2013-06-28, at 9:25, Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca wrote:Rich, On a second look I realized that the devices I ordered will not work for you since the output voltage cannot be adjustedlower than the input.This unit might suit your application. It is a purpose built constant current LED driver from the same guy, and even lessexpensive.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-Converter-Constant-Current-Voltage-1-3-30V-LED-Driver-Battery-Charger-LM2596-/390616867671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item5af2946357Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON-Original Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of SteveThomasSent: Friday, June 28, 2013 8:12 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lightsRich,  I ordered 4 similar devices from this guy a couple of days ago. The price is a bit better directly from China. My intentionis to be able to run 24 volt equipment.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/281041084321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON-Original Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf OfKnowles RichSent: Friday, June 28, 2013 7:31 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lightsFor those who may recall my little LED cabin lighting project (Fred for one), I noticed that there is some light level flutterwhen my Espar heater or refrigeration is running, an effect that is not noticed on incandescent lights. I am also concerned aboutthe long term negative effect of high voltage levels during battery charging. The only practical solution is to install a voltageregulator in the lighting circuits.After a day of unsuccessful local research, I stumbled on the URL below and have ordered a couple to try out. The source dx.com isan interesting one you may wish to explore a bit.http://dx.com/p/car-150w-dc-8-32v-to-9-46v-voltage-boost-converter-regulator-for-laptop-blue-206971?utm_rid=95527470%2C95527470utm_source=shoppingutm_medium=pcsutm_campaign=paidshoppingRich KnowlesINDIGO LF38Halifax, NS.___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List Fw: What did our 70's/80's boats cost new?

2013-06-25 Thread sam . c . salter
  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 2:39 PMTo: da...@gnuattitude.caSubject: Re: Stus-List What did our 70's/80's boats cost new?Don't know what the first owner paid, but the dealer paid $20,426.45 CDN in December 1977 for my CC 26.(looks like the retail on the base boat was $22,995 CDN and the dealer got a $4,195 CDN discount. The difference was for the optional extras)Interestingly, the 8hp Yanmar (1GM?) was $850 CDN - sometime since, it's been upgraded to a 2GM20F.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: David DonnellySent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 10:58 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: David DonnellySubject: Re: Stus-List What did our 70's/80's boats cost new?My 26 was $24,515.00 as purchased in 1978. A calculator I found online equates that to $88,734.00 in 2013 dollars.Boats were never cheapSent from Samsung mobile "Dennis C." capt...@yahoo.com wrote:Touche' 1971 CC 35 - invoice price $18,760US when ordered in April 1971.I bought it in April 1999 for $18,750. $10 depreciation in 28 years. It also had a $62,400 lien recorded against it at purchase. It had been paid off but never cleared.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAFrom: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 10:54 AM Subject: Stus-List What did our 70's/80's boats cost new?   I know what a modern 30ish footer costs new, but what did our CCs cost back in the 70's and 80's? Some of the brochures have that info but most don't. How were CCs positioned price-wise compared to the competition?
Just curious.SteveSuhana, CC 32Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Winch Handles

2013-06-20 Thread sam . c . salter
Nah, I also helm his boat, we're a good team.  sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Hoyt, MikeSent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 6:22 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Winch Handles






I would have thrown the trimmer overboard as well - unless he 
was the one who bought the One Touch handle


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 7:55 
PMTo: CnCSubject: Stus-List Winch 
Handles

I've got both the Titan and the One Touch.

My trimmer threw the original Barient, metal winch handle overboard and 
refused to sail with me until I bought a proper winch handle.

He prefers the One Touch!

sam :-) 403-617-6280
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